Professional Documents
Culture Documents
SIDE TABLE
Heres a perfect table for use in a front hall, behind a living-room sofa or in your bedroom for showcasing your favorite knickknacks. Besides being
narrow enough to fit in a variety of locations, its two drawers provide convenient storage for small items. For intermediate woodworkers, the tapered
legs, doweled joints and close tolerances throughout will present a challenge but also produce great satisfaction when properly executed. And when
its all assembled, youll learn more about applying and using stains and finishes to protect the wood and keep it looking beautiful.
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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2006-2007 SIDE TABLE
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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2006-2007 SIDE TABLE
BEFORE YOU BEGIN 6. Mark the positions of the dowel holes in the sides of the legs and
Good craftsmanship begins and ends with good work habits, so make the ends of the apron pieces (Fig. 3). Offset the dowels slightly on
the following steps part of your routine workshop practice. If you have each side of the legs so they wont interfere with each other. Drill
any doubts or questions about how to proceed with a project, always the 3/8"-diameter dowel holes.
discuss them with your shop instructor.
Carefully and fully review plans and instructions before putting a 7. With the tablesaw blade set 1/4" high, cut the grooves for the
tool to the project lumber. tabletop fasteners 1/2" from the top edge of the front and back
Work sensibly and safely. Wear safety goggles when doing work that aprons (C, Figs. 3 and 6).
creates flying chips and sawdust; wear the appropriate respirator
whenever making sawdust or working with thinners or other solvents. Assembling the Table
At the end of every work session, clean up your shop area and put There are three stages in assembling the table. First, construct the
away all portable tools. frame from the legs and apron pieces. Second, make the drawers.
Third, complete the top, which has already been glued together
CUTTING AND ASSEMBLY and cut to size.
PROCEDURE
Construct the Frame
Glue the Top
8. Lay out and cut the two drawer openings in one of the long apron
1. To make the top (A), edge-glue together two 1 x 8 boards that are pieces (C). To do this, drill 3/8" holes within the cutout area of
49" long. Alternate the direction of the growth rings in the end grain of each opening. Then use a saber saw to cut along each line. Proceed
the boards to prevent the top from warping. After the glue has dried, slowly and carefully to ensure straight cuts and square corners.
cut the top to its finished dimension. After the cutting, file and sand all edges smooth.
Make the Initial Cuts 9. Sand the legs and aprons with 120-grit paper, then smooth them all
with 180-grit paper. Dowel, glue and clamp the front legs to the front
2. Cut all the pieces, (B) through (N), to the dimensions given in the
apron and the back legs to the back apron. Then dowel, glue and
CUTTING LIST. Glue the drawer runner pieces, (J) and (K), together.
clamp the side aprons to the assembled front and back. Quickly wipe
away excess glue with a damp cloth.
Taper the Legs
The legs are made of solid birch stock 1-1/2" thick. If you have trouble
Make the Drawers
finding birch that thick, glue together two 3/4" pieces. The taper on
10. Drill the holes for the knobs in the drawer fronts (E, Fig. 1).
two sides of each leg is easy to cut with a homemade tapering jig.
Shape the drawer front edges with a router and 3/8" roundover bit.
The drawers are boxes assembled with nailsvery easy to make and
alignand they ride on wooden runners.
11. Cut rabbets 1-1/8" wide by 3/8" deep on the inside ends of the
drawer fronts, using a dado blade on the tablesaw. Use the tablesaw
3. Make the leg-tapering jig by cutting a 3/4"-thick piece of scrap
miter gauge to ensure square cuts. Clamp a stop block to the fence
plywood 5" wide by 33" long (Fig. 4). Draw the angled side as shown
to hold the piece the correct distance from the blade. Cut rabbets
in the diagram and cut out the notch with a saber saw.
3/4" wide x 1/4" deep on the back ends of the drawer sides (F) in
the same way (Fig. 2). Cut the grooves for the drawer bottoms (M)
4. To cut the legs, set the tablesaw fence 5" from the saw blade and
in the drawer fronts and sides.
set the blade slightly higher than 1-1/2". You must cut a taper on two
adjacent sides of each leg and leave the sides that fit against the
12. Sand all the drawer pieces, then glue and clamp all the pieces
aprons uncut. Place a leg (B) in the notch of the taper jig and slide
together except for the drawer bottoms. Push the bottoms into their
the jig across the table, holding it tight to the fence (Fig. 5). Use a
grooves after finishing, to avoid having to wipe the stain and topcoat
push stick to hold the leg tight against the side of the notch as you cut
out of the corners.
the taper. Rotate the leg 90 degrees in the jig so the tapered side you
just cut is facing up, then cut the other tapered side of the leg. Repeat
13. Drill pilot holes, and then drive finish nails through the drawer
these steps for the remaining three legs.
sides into the drawer fronts and backs. To make nailing easier, clamp
the drawer front or back in a vise so that the drawer side is supported
Drill the Dowel Holes
on the top edge of the vise jaw. Use a nail set to finish driving the nails
5. Drilling the dowel holes can be confusing unless you first mark
into the drawer fronts past the lips of the fronts.
which sides of the legs (B) and ends of the apron pieces (C) go
together. The easiest way to do this is to place all the legs and apron
14. Align the upper drawer runners (H, Fig. 1) between the front
pieces upside down on your worktable in the relative positions theyll
and back aprons. Use a clamp to hold them in place, then drill
assume when the base is assembled. Label each joint with a different
pilot holes and drive finish nails. Use a nail set to drive the heads
identifying mark so you can assemble it the same way later.
below the surface. Fill the nail holes with wood putty. Then glue the
stop block (L) in place at the bottom of each drawer opening in
Wo o d w o r k e r s Ti p : Drilling the dowel holes in the legs and aprons
the front apron.
is simpler and more accurate if you use a dowel-drilling jig. Place a
piece of masking tape on the drill bit for a depth stop flat.
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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2006-2007 SIDE TABLE
Affix the Lower Runners remove any marks or scratches, then lightly sand by hand using with-
15. To mount the runners (J, K) that guide the sides and bottoms of the-grain sanding strokes. Dust off the piece and wipe it carefully with
the drawers, set the table base on its back and align the drawers in a clean, lint-free cloth lightly dampened with mineral spirits.
their openings. Set them tight to the bottom edge of the opening in the
apron, with an even gap on each side. Recommended Finish
21. Apply the Minwax Wood Finish youve chosen to the interior
16. Set the drawer runners in place and mark their outside edges surfaces using a natural-bristle brush and a clean, lint-free cloth
on the front and back aprons (Fig. 6). Mark where the ends of the following the directions on the can. The brush will help you get the
drawer runners join the front and back apron pieces. Leave a 1/32" stain into the many inside corners and other tight spots. Allow the
gap between the runners and the sides of the drawers. Hammer finish Wood Finish to set for about 5 to 15 minutes, then wipe off any
nails through the aprons and into the drawer runners to hold them excess. To achieve a deeper color, you may apply a second coat after
in place. Use a nail set to drive the nailheads slightly below the surface. 4-6 hours, repeating the application directions for the first coat.
Fill the nail holes with wood putty. Allow the stain to dry for 24 hours before applying the protective
clear finish.
17. Finish the drawer assembly after the final topcoat is dry. Slide the
drawer bottoms (M) into their grooves and then fasten them with two Wo o d w o r k e r s Ti p : Different species of wood take to stain dif-
4d finish nails driven into the drawer backs. ferently. When using a combination of woods like oak and birch,
you may need to apply a second or third coat to birch to achieve
18. Attach the knobs to the drawer fronts and pivoted stops to the a uniform finish. When wiping off stain, make certain that your
backs of the drawers. The stops are 1"x 3" pieces of 1/4" plywood. last wipe with the cloth goes with the grain of the wood. This
Attach them with a single pan-head screw and a washer (see Drawer way, any stain you might miss during wipe-off will be visually
Section View, Fig. 2). minimized by the wood grain.
19. Reattach the top to the base with table fastener brackets (Fig 6). 22. Apply Minwax Wipe-On Poly following the directions on the can.
Leave a 1/16" space between the fasteners and the aprons to allow the Shake the can thoroughly. Apply a liberal amount of Wipe-On Poly on a
top to expand. Turn the rear drawer stops horizontal so you can slide clean, soft, lint-free cloth into the wood. It can be brushed on or wiped
the drawers in place. Then turn the stops downward so the drawers on with a cloth. Allow the first coat to dry for at least 4 hours.
wont fall out when you open them.
23. Once completely dry, sand all surfaces very lightly with 220-grit
STAINING AND FINISHING or finer sandpaper or very fine (000) steel wool using with-the-grain
Wo o d w o r k e r s Ti p : Though you may be tempted to cut short strokes. Thoroughly wipe off all surfaces with a soft cloth. Apply a
your sanding, preparation and application time, dont do it. second coat of Minwax Wipe-On Poly and set the piece aside to dry
These tasks are very important steps in obtaining a high-quality for at least 4 hours.
finish. Remember, it is the finish, just as much as the fit and
smoothness of the parts that will have great bearing on how 24. Once completely dry, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit or finer
people judge your craftsmanship. To ensure an excellent result, sandpaper or very fine (000) steel wool. Thoroughly wipe off the piece
follow the steps listed in this section and also the instructions with a soft cloth and apply a third and final coat of Wipe-On Poly. Allow
the finish manufacturer puts on its products. the table to cure for several days before using it.
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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2006-2007 SIDE TABLE
PRODUCT SAFETY FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large amounts
For your safety and the safety of those you work with, always read the of water. Get medical attention if irritation persists. If swallowed, get
safety warnings, which manufacturers print on their labels, and follow medical attention immediately.
them to the letter.
WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the State of
WARNING! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially CONFORMS TO ASTM D-4326. Contact a physician for more health
in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other information.
hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment,
such as properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and proper
containment and cleanup. For more information, call the National Lead
Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (in US) or contact your local
health authority.
DANGER: Rags, steel wool, other waste soaked with oil-based stains
and clear finishes, and sanding residue may spontaneously catch fire if
improperly discarded. Immediately place rags, steel wool, other waste
soaked with these products, and sanding residue in a sealed, water-filled
metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations.
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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2006-2007 SIDE TABLE
1
/2" Rad. (side and front edges)
A
1
/2 " Tabletop Overhang
4"
1" Rad
. (front corners)
H D
C
Saw Kerf
H Glue Only
5"
K
D J
4d Finish Nail-
L 2 per Joint Set
and Fill
F
M
F
G E
N
B 3
/8" Dia. x 2" Dowel Pin
(2 per joint)
B
1-1/4" Dia. Oak Knob
In this area
taper leg on 1"
inside two 1"
sides to 1"
square (see
taper jig).
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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2006-2007 SIDE TABLE
4d Finish Nails
G E
Glue Glue
1
/4" F
11/8"
3
/4" DRAWER ( PLAN VIEW)
3
No. 8 x 3/4" Pan-head /8" 3
1
/8" Rad.
Screw and Washer /4" Dia. Hole
4d Finish Nail E
G F
7
/8"
1 3
/4" /8"
N M 1
/4" x 1/4" Grooves
C
3
/8"
D B
3
/8"
1
/8" x 1/4" Saw Kerf Front and Back
3 1
/4" /2"
1 /2"
1 1"
D 11/2"
1
2 /2" 1
2 /4" 15" 21/2" C
3" 11/4"
3
B /8" Dia. x 1-1/16" B 3
/4"
Deep Dowel Holes
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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2006-2007 SIDE TABLE
Taper Jig
33"
1"
3
1 /4"
5"
1
/32" Gap
Tabletop
Sawn Groove Fastener
1
/16" Gap
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WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT
PORCH SWING
Kick back and relax with this fun-to-build weekend project. The smooth, gentle glide of the porch swing will keep you daydreaming for hours.
This project is designed with a unique suspension system made from ordinary 1/2" black steel pipe (commonly used for gas piping). It slips
through the swing frame to act as a cradle and to eliminate stress on wood joints. Eyebolts are fastened through the steel pipe and covered
by soft rubber caps to prevent accidental scrapes. The swing assembly is then supported with a welded steel chain that is securely fastened to
solid framing in the porch roof.
In this intermediate-level project, youll gain experience in working with templates to make shaped pieces and doing some complex and precise
assembly. And after you build it, youll learn more about applying and using finishes to protect the wood and keep it looking beautiful.
Caution: Swings are inherently dangerous for small children. This swing moves slowly, but it has hard edges that can give a nasty bump. Kids will
love this swing, but never let small children play around it unattended.
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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2004-2005 PORCH SWING
TOOLS REQUIRED
Hand Tools Power Tools Miscellaneous
Hacksaw Miter saw or circular saw Tape measure Minwax Wood Finish
Adjustable wrench Drill with bits and screw- Safety glasses Stain Brush or other good
Block plane driver attachment 120-, 150- and 220-grit quality, natural bristle brush
Bar clamps Jigsaw sandpaper (for oil-based stains and
Table saw Clean, lint-free cloths finishes)
Orbital sander Respirator Minwax Stainable
4" roller Wood Filler
Gloves for finishing Construction adhesive
Mineral spirits (for oil- Thread-locking compound
based finishes) Exterior spray primer
Water-filled metal container Black or brown spray paint
with tight-fitting lid
Alternate Finish
Thompsons WaterSeal Deck & House Semi-
Transparent Latex Stain Cedartone (for a cedar
appearance), Briarwood (for a brownish tone),
Woodland (for a reddish tone), or Superwhite
(for a white appearance).
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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2004-2005 PORCH SWING
BEFORE YOU BEGIN 7. Use a table saw to cut the center and top horizontal back braces
Good craftsmanship begins and ends with good work habits, so make (F and G) from 1x4s. Set the blade at 27-1/2 degrees for the bevel cuts.
the following steps part of your routine workshop practice. If you have
any doubts or questions about how to proceed with a project, always 8. Mark a diagonal taper onto a 1x3 as shown in Fig. 1 to make the
discuss them with your shop instructor. two outer slats (K) from this single piece. Cut along the line with your
Carefully and fully review plans and instructions before putting a jigsaw, then use a block plane to smooth the cut edge.
tool to the project lumber.
Work sensibly and safely. Wear safety goggles when doing work that 9. Assemble the back as shown in Figs. 1 and 4. Lay all the back slats
creates flying chips and sawdust; wear the appropriate respirator (H, J, K) face down on a flat surface and slip temporary 1/4" spacers
whenever making sawdust or working with thinners or other between them to help maintain consistent spacing. Fasten the bottom
solvents. brace (E) to the middle slat, using a framing square to make sure
At the end of every work session, clean up your shop area and put theyre joined at 90 degrees. Start at the center and work out to the
away all portable tools. sides. When you get to the fourth slat on each side, check your spacing;
you may need to adjust it so the outer edge of the tapered slat (K) is
CUTTING AND ASSEMBLY flush with the end of the lower back brace.
PROCEDURE
10. Cut the curves on the back assembly. Make a simple beam
1. Cut all the parts to the dimensions shown in the CUTTING LIST.
compass from a scrap of wood as shown in Fig. 5. Flip the backrest
Using a table saw, make 1x3s from the 1x6s.
assembly over and nail one end of the compass 14 inches from the top
and in the center of the 1x6 back slat. Insert your pencil into the 1/4"
2. Notch the front arm braces (B) with a jigsaw to accept the front
hole drilled in the other end of the compass and draw the curve. Cut
stringer (C) as shown in Fig.1. Fasten C to both parts B with 1-5/8"
along the mark with your jigsaw. With the backrest assembly in this
deck screws. Drill pilot and countersink holes and apply a dab of
position, measure and mark a 2-1/2" line parallel to the bottom edge.
construction adhesive at each joint.
11. Hang the lower part of the back assembly over the edge of the
Wo o d w o r k e r s Ti p : Why use construction adhesive instead of
work surface and slide the seat assembly onto it. Place the seat frame
carpenters glue? We used Liquid Nails brand LN-600 because its
assembly you built earlier onto the backrest assembly. Its crucial to
waterproof and resilient. Construction adhesive will help your
align the rear seat frame stringer (D) to the 2-1/2" line on the backrest
porch swing stand up to both weather and stress. Apply a small
so the remainder of the assembly will fit together. Glue the joint, then
bead at every joint. If the glue oozes slightly, let the excess harden
clamp and screw the assemblies together.
and then cut it off with a sharp putty knife or wood chisel.
12. Drill 7/8" holes in the horizontal arm supports (M) to the exact
3. Draw the curved shapes for parts A1, A2 and P onto hardboard
dimensions shown in Fig. 1. Then glue and screw these pieces to the
templates, shown in Fig.1, cut them out and trace them onto boards.
front arm braces (B) and the center back brace (F).
To cut them out with a jigsaw, clamp them to the workbench to keep
them from wandering while you cut the curves. Sand the curves smooth
13. Glue and screw the seat slats to the seat braces. Start in the back
with 100-grit sandpaper. Drill 7/8"-dia. holes with a sharp spade bit
and leave approximately a 3/16" space between each piece. Trim the
into parts A1 and A2 as shown in Fig. 2 for the front pipe hanger.
last slat to overhang the front stringer by 1/2". Plane the transition
piece on the curve of the seat and at the leading edge of the front seat
4. Trace the angle of the center seat brace (A2) onto each side brace
slat for maximum comfort. Also shave off any high spots in the seat slats
(A1) to locate the holes for attaching the rear stringer (D). Again,
with a block plane.
drill pilot holes and glue and screw the seat braces to the front stringer
and the front arm braces. Next, glue and screw the rear stringer to the
14. Test-fit the pipe, chain and connecting links in the wooden assem-
seat braces.
bly. This is a good time to discover any glitches and correct them before
you do any finishing. Slide the pipes through the holes in the seat frame
Wo o d w o r k e r s Ti p : Youll need to pre-drill holes for every screw
and along the back, leaving an equal amount exposed on each side.
so you wont split the wood or break off the screw head. To make
this process easier, buy a special combination bit that can drill
15. Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the rear support pipe, then screw
and countersink in one operation.
a 2" No. 8 sheet metal screw (use a 1/8" pilot hole) up into the center
back support. This connection will keep the pipe from sliding to one
5. Drill through the front arm braces (B) with a 7/8" spade bit after
side while the swing is in motion.
youve glued and screwed the side seat braces to them. These two holes
will complete the pathway for the front pipe support (Q).
16. Drill 9/32"-dia. holes for the eyebolts. Angle the eyebolts slightly
toward the center of the swing to minimize the torque on the pipe and
6. After you assemble the arm braces, stringers and seat braces, glue
prevent the lock-screw from breaking.
and screw the curved front arm supports (L) to the sides of B as shown
in Fig. 1.
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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2004-2005 PORCH SWING
17. Hang the swing using the quick-link eyes to join the lengths of Recommended Finish
chain. This swing could be holding 400 pounds or more, so you must 21. Before applying Thompsons WaterSeal Waterproofer PLUS
anchor the swings chain with 1/2" screw eyes screwed at least 2" into Clear or Tinted Wood Protector, read and follow the directions found
solid framing as shown in Fig. 6. Also, distribute the weight to more on the back of the can. Be sure that both surface and air temperature
than one joist or rafter by screwing a pair of 2x4s 54" apart and then are above 50 F during application and for 48 hours after application,
inserting the screw eyes into the 2x4s. The swing should tip back and if youre working outside, do not apply product if rain is forecasted
slightly at the arms (about 1" from back to front) when it is at rest. within 24 hours of application.
During the final assembly after finishing, squirt thread-locking com-
pound on the eyebolt threads. Be sure to cut the ends of the eyebolts 22. The surfaces must be free of all mildew, dust, dirt, oil, soot, grease,
flush with the nuts for safety. When the installation is complete and and other contaminants. If the surface is damp or wet from cleaning or
secure, remove the swing for finishing. weather, allow the surface to dry thoroughly (a minimum of 48 hours)
before application.
18. Before applying the finish, remove the chains and pipes. Sand the
pipes with 100-grit sandpaper, then wipe them down thoroughly 23. Cover plants and shrubs and move all objects that could come in
with a rag dampened with mineral spirits. Let the mineral spirits contact with Wood Protector.
evaporate off the surface, then spray-paint the pipes with exterior
primer followed by a brown or black exterior enamel. 24. When you apply Clear or Tinted Wood Protector, do not mix it
with other waterproofing products because variations in the final
19. Sand the wood parts with 100-grit sandpaper, paying particular appearance of the surface being treated may result.
attention to the arms and the edges of the seat and back. Softer edges
will be safer and more comfortable and hold the finish better. 25. Before applying Wood Protector over the entire surface, a small
trial patch is recommended to verify color.
20. Wipe off the dust and vacuum the swing. Youll make better time if
you apply the finish with a small 4" roller and follow it up with a brush 26. In most applications, only one light coat is necessary. Apply with a
to even the coat. Use the brush to get between the slats and then look brush, roller, applicator pad, or by dipping the piece into the product.
for runs and drips coming through the other side. Regardless of which application method is used, remove excess within
15 minutes by redistributing it to drier areas or wiping it off.
PROTECTING YOUR PROJECT
Any type of wood thats used outdoors needs protection from water 27. Use only with adequate ventilation. Oiliness and tackiness will
damage. Weve chosen Thompsons WaterSeal Waterproofer PLUS result if over-applied or applied to wet or damp surface or if overnight
Tinted Wood Protector to provide complete protection for your project. temperature falls below 50 F within 48 hours of application. Excessive
It not only prevents water damage, but the coating also resists mildew oiliness caused by over-application may be removed by scrubbing wood
and U.V. (ultraviolet radiation in sunlight) damage, and it exceeds with a concentrated degreaser.
industry standards for waterproofing on wood. In addition, Tinted
Wood Protector adds color without hiding natural wood grain. 28. Allow at least 48 hours to dry before you hang the swing. Drying
time will vary depending on the substrate, temperature and humidity.
Wo o d w o r k e r s Ti p : Always be sure to choose a waterproofer that
claims to exceed industry standards for waterproofing on wood. 29. Clean brushes and equipment with mineral spirits, then rinse with
clean water.
FINISHING TIPS NOTE: The length of protection will vary depending on environment.
When you apply Thompsons WaterSeal Waterproofer PLUS Clear
Perform the following splash test once a year to see whether reapplica-
or Tinted Wood Protector, do not mix it with other waterproofing
tion is necessary. Sprinkle water on various sections of surface to be
products because variations in the final appearance of the surface
sealed. If water absorbs and darkens color of substrate within 5 sec-
being treated may result. Also, do not thin these products.
onds, the surface is porous and considered ready to be treated. If water
Coverage: The approximate coverage of Clear Wood Protector on
beads up or otherwise sits on top of surface, then surface doesnt need
cedar is 300 to 400 square feet per gallon. A gallon of Tinted Wood
Protector will cover about 250 to 300 square feet. The approximate protection at this time. For maximum protection from color change
coverage of oil or latex stain on smooth wood is 250 to 300 square and other damage caused by the sun, reapplication is recommended
feet per gallon. every year. Vertical and horizontal surfaces will experience color
changes at different rates.
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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2004-2005 PORCH SWING
Alternate Finish WARNING! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means
If you want more color along with excellent protection, use may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust
Thompsons WaterSeal Deck & House Latex or Oil Stain, both of or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects,
which come in Solid and Semi-transparent formulations and are avail- especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead
able in 117 ready- and custom-mixed colors. or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective
equipment, such as properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and
30. Before applying any of these stains, read and follow the directions proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call the
found on the back of the can. To ensure good penetration, do not apply National Lead Informations Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (in US) or
in direct sunlight or on hot days. Be sure that both surface and air tem- contact your local health authority.
perature are above 50 F and below 95 F during application and for
48 hours after application. If youre working outside do not apply Contents are COMBUSTIBLE. Keep away from heat and open flame.
product if rain is forecasted within 24 hours of application.
Contains ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS.
31. The surfaces must be free of all mildew, dust, dirt, oil, soot, grease,
and other contaminants. If the surface is damp or wet from cleaning or VAPOR HARMFUL. Use only with adequate ventilation. To avoid over-
weather, allow the surface to dry thoroughly (a minimum of 48 hours) exposure, open windows and doors or use other means to ensure fresh
before application. Shake or mix thoroughly before application air entry during application and drying. If you experience eye watering,
(mechanical shaking is recommended). headaches, or dizziness, increase fresh air supply, or wear respiratory
protection (NIOSH/ MSHATC23C or equivalent), or leave the area. Avoid
32. Since in-store color samples may vary slightly when actually contact with eyes and skin. Wash hands after using. Keep container
applied to wood (based on color, texture, grain, porosity, and type of closed when not in use. Do not transfer contents to other containers
wood), apply the stain to a small test area and let it dry to determine for storage.
final color before proceeding with the entire project.
FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large amounts
33. Apply stain with an exterior paint pad, brush, roller, or compres- of water for 15 minutes and get medical attention. For skin contact,
sion-driven sprayer set for low pressure. Do not use product in a wash thoroughly with soap and water. In case of respiratory difficulty,
pump-up garden sprayer. When rolling be sure to go back and brush-in provide fresh air and call physician. If swallowed, get medical attention
stain to ensure even coverage. When using a pad or brush, keep the immediately.
leading edge wet and distribute stain evenly. This will help avoid lap DELAYED EFFECTS FROM LONG-TERM
marks and keep color uniform. OCCUPATIONAL EXPOSURE.
Contains solvents that can cause permanent brain and nervous system
34. Work from top to bottom or side to side in areas small enough to damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling
allow the leading edge to remain wet at all times during application. the contents can be harmful or fatal.
Use natural breaks as boundaries to divide large areas into more man-
ageable work areas. WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the
State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other
35. One coat of stain is recommended, but a second coat can be reproductive harm.
added if desired. Allow the first coat to dry thoroughly (approximately
4 hours for latex, 24 hours for oil) before second application. Drying DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. KEEP OUT OF THE REACH
time will vary depending on the substrate, temperature and humidity. OF CHILDREN.
36. For oil-base stain, clean brushes and equipment with mineral SAFE DISPOSAL OF RAGS AND WASTE.
spirits, then rinse with clean water. For latex stain, clean brushes Rags, steel wool or waste soaked in Thompsons WaterSeal
and equipment with soap and water. Waterproofer PLUS Tinted Wood Protector may spontaneously catch
fire if improperly discarded. Immediately after use, place rags, steel
IMPORTANT: Place rags, steel wool and waste immediately after use wool or waste in sealed, water-filled metal container. Dispose of in
in a sealed, water-filled metal container. accordance with local fire regulations.
PRODUCT SAFETY
For your safety and the safety of those you work with, always read the
safety warnings, which manufacturers print on their labels, and follow
them to the letter. Typical safety advice and instructions will contain
information such as the following:
5
CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2004-2005 PORCH SWING
K
QUICK-LINK EYES G
11/4" SCREWS
F FOR BACK SLATS
H
H
B P
M
1/4" EYEBOLT
B N P (TRIM FLUSH WITH NUT)
L
M
R
NOTCH FOR C
D
7/8 " - DIA. HOLE A2
L 15/8" DECK
C A1 SCREWS
1/2" - I.D.
BLACK PIPE
11/8" TO
CENTER Q 3/4" - I.D.
CUT HERE RUBBER CAP
13/4" TO FOR A2 NOTCH FOR C
CENTER 621/2"
DEGREES
A1 AND A2
K K
L HOLE
P M
3/4" TO
CENTER
11/2" TO
CENTER
6
CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2004-2005 PORCH SWING
B L
REAR
STRINGER
G (D)
A1
A1 A2 A1
M
SEAT
P SUPPORTS
B
B C
D
"-DIA. HOLE
7/8
B
G
NO. 4 FINISH NAIL
E 1 /2"
12 "
28
SP
1 /4 ER
AC
"S
1/4"
HOLE DRILLED
AT 14" FROM NAIL
CENTER OF BOARD
7
CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT 2004-2005 PORCH SWING
8
Old-Fashioned Push-Along Toys
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as well as relatively easy to work with a coping saw. All it's easy to work, good to touch, strong across short grain
things considered, we thought that best-quality 1/4"- "necks," and it glues and finishes well.
thick multi-layer plywood was a winner on many counts. Don't think you can cut costs by using the coarse-
It's strong, it's stable, it's easy to cut, and it's easy to centered plywood that goes by such names as "block ply,"
bond layers together to give extra strength. "stout heart" and "Malaysian." I say this because plywood
When you have made all the cutouts, rub the two foot- of this type and character tends to be difficult to work,
wheels down to a smooth, round-edged finishso that soft, almost impossible to sand to a good finish, and prone
they are smooth to the touch and the total two-wheel to splintering. No, when we say "multi-ply," we are
thickness is something less than 1/2". Next, establish the specifically referring to the type of plywood that is built
position of the pivotal dowel holes through the wheel and up in thin 1/16" layers or veneers. A plywood of this
into the inside face of each solid wood body part. Then character has a smooth, white, close-grained face, it's
drill them out with a bit size that gives you a slightly loose tremendously strong and it's great to work. Ask for "best-
fit for your chosen dowel. quality, multi-ply, multilayer or multi-core plywood,"
To assemble: Glue one body part to one side of the and don't be talked into anything else.
central head-body spacer. Set the two foot-wheels in the Note, a sheet of 1/4"-thick multilayer plywood
cavity so that the feet are facing in the correct direction. should be made up of four or five thin veneer layers.
Slide the dowel in place, and, lastly, glue the other body
part in place so that the foot-wheels and pivotal dowel
are nicely contained.
When the glue is dry, rub the whole works down so
that the corners are rounded and good to hold. Aim for a
form that is going to be safe and comfortable in a toddler's
hands. Finally, use watercolors to tint in the imagery, give
the whole works one or more coats of clear varnish, and
the toy is finished.
SPECIAL TIP
Wooden toys must be childproof! Being mindful that tod-
dlers are, at the very least, going to stick the toy in their
mouths, it's most important that all the fixtures, fittings
and materials be totally secure and nontoxic. Perhaps
most important of all, the wood must be splinter resistant.
With all this in mind, we chose to use multi-ply for the
central layer and for the wheels, for the simple reason that
USING PLYWOOD
Best quality multi-ply is a first choice ma-
terial for small cutout type toys. It is amaz-
ingly strong and it rubs down to a good
smooth-to- touch finish.
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STEP-BY-STEP STAGES
1 Check the component parts against the working 2 Fix the two wheels together with a piece of double-
draw ings. And just in case you are wondering why I sided sticky tape and rub them down so that they are
opted to use two 1/4"" thicknesses to make up the 1/2"- slightly less than 1/2" in total thickness. The use of the
thick spacerrather than a single 1/2" thicknessthe tape not only ensures that both wheels are identical, it
simple answer is that I had lots of pieces of 1/4" ply also makes them easier to handle.
that needed to be used up.
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RUNNING REG IN HARDWOOD
Kids are so perceptive! When our Rosy toy was finished
and up and running, I took it around to the 5-year-old
girl next door for a bit of no-nonsense, in-depth criticism.
Of course 1 was expecting a little bit of praise, but, oh no.
All she said was, "But. . . where is running Reg?" So there
you go, we had no other option but to make a Running
Reg toy.
COUNTERCHANGE CUTTING
The clever thing about this project is not so much the
design, but rather the way the two contrasting thicknesses
of wood are cut and then counterchanged. It's an amaz-
ingly simple but subtle technique. All you do is sandwich
two contrasting sheets of wood together, fret the design
through both layers, and then swap the cutouts around
so that the cutouts are contrasting.
STEP-BY-STEP STAGES
PROCEDURE
Take the four pieces of woodthe sycamore, the mahog-
any, and the two pieces of plywoodand use the double-
sided sticky tape to make a sandwich that has the plywood
as the filling. When you are happy with the arrangement,
carefully press transfer the traced imagery through to the
sycamore side of the sandwich. Use the scroll saw to fret
out the outside profile. This done, ease off the outside
layersthe sycamore and the mahoganyand stick them
together.
Cut out the plywood inner shape and the wheels.
Then comes the very clever procedure of counterchange
cutting. The method is beautifully simple. All you do is
take the two profiles the sycamore and the mahogany, 1 Having fitted the very finest blade in the scroll saw,
all nicely stuck together with the double-sided tapeand very carefully cut the design down into its component
saw them down into all the little parts that go to make up parts. I t ' s important that you use a new, well-
the design. For example, with this design I ran cuts tensioned blade and go at it slowly, so that each and every
through at either side of the hat band and under the chin. cut is well placed and square to the wood.
All you then do is swap the cutouts around and put the
toy together in much the same way as already described.
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DESIGN OPTIONS
TOY SAFETY with water-based varnish or to use acrylic paints. If you
Traditional wooden toys are enormous fun! Wood- are concerned about paints and toy safety, then it's best
workers like making them and kids like playing with if you write to various well-known paint manufacturers
them. But you do have to bear in mind that the average, and ask their advice.
intelligent finger-sticky toddler is generally going to do
his level best to push the toy in his mouth and/or up his Wood Types
nose, if not worse! If you are going to make wooden toys, Although I have had no personal experience in this mat-
you have most certainly got to make sure that all the ter, I do understand that certain exotic wood types are
structures and all the materials are completely safe. If you dangerous if they are chewed. For example, I read of a
are going to present the toys as gifts and/or make them case in which a child chewed a wooden toy from a Third
for sale, you are legally bound to make sure that they are World country, and the juices in the wood caused the
"safe, sound and fitting for their purpose." What this child to go into some sort of shock. II we err on the side
means is that you must ensure that every part of the toy of safety and take it that some wood varieties are toxic,
is safeno splinters, no toxic materials, no loose parts then the best advice is to use only wood varieties that we
that can be swallowed. Be warned, ignorance is no excuse know to be safe. So, if we take it that modern American
under the lawyou must make sure that everything is safe! and British toymakers know what they are doing, it looks
The following will provide you with some good sound to me as if we should be going for wood types like lime,
guidelines. sycamore, beech, birch, oak and pine.
Paint Fittings
Since kids like brightly colored toys, it's vital that you As I remember, kids are always trying to pry their toys
make sure that you use paints that are completely safe apart in an effort to find out how they work. This being
and nontoxic. Yes, your dad's old paint might still be in the case, it's a good idea to avoid nails, small pieces of
good condition, and, yes, it would give a wonderfully wire, and component parts that could in any way crack,
glossy, hard-wearing finish, but then again, it is almost splinter or shatter. The best advice is to use brass screws,
certainly poisonous! Most old paints contain all manner glued dowels and glued layers.
of toxic mixes, everything from lead and antimony to arse-
nic. You must set out on the assumption that all old paints Form
are dangerous. In many ways, the form a toy takes is as important as
When 1 asked around, I was assured that all modern its substance and structure. For example, if a toy has a
paints are required by law to meet certain nontoxic, lead- component part that is long, thin and spiky, or a part that
free standards. But when I took it a bit further and phoned could be swallowed, or a part that could be inserted into
a paint manufacturer, they said that though their paints the ear or nose, then it follows that the toy in question
do most certainly come within safe standards, they don't has been badly designed. If and when you are designing
necessarily come up to the standards required by the "Toy your toys, or if you decide to modify this one, you must
Safety" laws. As you can see, the whole area of paints and make sure that it's safe. For example, it might be a good
toy safety is somewhat difficult. I personally think that idea to extend the walking girl's hair so as to make more
the best advice is either to use water stains and cover them of a handle, but the question iswould it be safe?
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It's rare that bookshelves look as interesting as the objects you display on them. After
all, how much can you decorate the edges of your shelves and sides? This unit is
unusual because the shelves and sides are beefier than you would normally see, and
the two bevel cuts on the front edges give these shelves nice visual interest. Best of all,
perhaps, is that this piece is simple and quick to build.
To cut the sides, crosscut a whole sheet of plywood to the length of the sides first, then
rip them to width (11" and 11-1/4"). Cut the sides a little wide (1/16"), initially, to give
yourself a little room to saw off a square straight edge. This will give you a clean edge
for attaching a piece of maple later. Now nail and glue the dividers together,
remembering to offset the back edge for the rabbet. Place your nails so the shelves will
hide them.
Here's an easy way to cut the shelves. Rip them to width from a full piece of plywood,
then nail and glue up a length of shelving. Then crosscut the shelves to length from the
long pieces. You can get five 16" shelves out of a 96" rip. For even less work, cut the
shelves to length after attaching the edging.
The last step is to bevel the edging. The photo shows how I did this on the table saw.
Remember that the setup must change for the different width pieces.
When you're happy with the fit of the parts, disassemble the bookcase and finish. I
applied a coat of light stain to give the maple an aged appearance. (I used about two
ounces of linseed oil and colored it with Olympic stains, one-half Early American
#41552, and one-half Red Oak #41567. 1/4 teaspoon of each.) Wipe on an even coat of
oil. Wipe off the excess and let it dry for 24 hours.The next day, lightly sand the surfaces
and clean them with a tack rag. Finish with two or three coats of a clear finish. Magic Wire: After cutting the 1/8" grooves
in the shelf sides, assemble the case. Tap
the wire shelf supports in and slide the
loose shelves in place.
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