VIOLET & IVY

design by serah basnet | tales of twisted fibers

AN AMIGURUMI PATTERN BY TALES OF TWISTED FIBERS 1
Materials
Yarn for Violet: Sock weight yarn in purple,
black, light peach, green
2.5 mm crochet hook
A pair of 8 mm sew on eyes
Fiber fill
Black embroidery thread
Yarn needle
Craft wire
Wire cutter
Masking tape
Pearl headed pins

Finished size: 10.5 inches to the top of her

head (without measuring the hat)

Skill level: Intermediate

Terminology (US)
chain (ch)
magic ring
single crochet (sc)
double crochet (dc)
increase (inc)
double crochet increase (dc inc)
decrease (dec)
slip stitch (sl st)
front loop only (FLO)
back loop only (BLO)
half double crochet (hdc)
front post half double crochet (fphdc)
yarn over (YO)
surface slip stitch (surface sl st)

NOTE: Violet and Ivy are fully poseable

amigurumis. The pattern includes photo
instructions on working with wires, and
making moveable limbs and head.

2014 Tales of Twisted Fibers

All rights reserved.
You may not sell/redistribute/publish this pattern.
Finished products made from this pattern may be
sold by indie crafters provided you credit Tales of
Twisted Fibers as the designer.
2 VIOLET & IVY
Instructions for Violet
BOOT & STOCKING (make 2) WIRING THE SHOE: Take a 13 inch long wire and
Round 1: With purple yarn, sc 3 in a magic ring. (3) bend it at 1.5 inch (Pic 7). This will go into the toe
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (6) area. Next, measure 1.8 inch from the last bent point
Round 3-4: sc around. (6) and bend it upwards as shown in the image (Pic 8).
Round 5: (sc 1, inc) X 3. (9) This will be the heel. Wrap masking tape over the wire
Round 6-7: sc around. (9) to prevent the loose end from poking out (Pic 9) and
Round 8: (sc 2, inc) X 3. (12) carefully insert the wire into the boot (Pic 10).
Round 9-11: sc around. (12)
From this point onwards, work in rows to make the Thread a yarn needle with purple yarn and sew the
heel. gap at the heel closed. Stuff around the wire lightly,
Row 12-15: ch 1, turn, sc 8. (8) making sure to leave the tip of the shoe unstuffed.
From here on, we go back to working in the round. Bend the tip of the boot upwards as shown in the
Round 16: ch 1, do not turn (Pic 1). Working along the image (Pic 11). From the next round onwards, we will
row end, sc 4 (Pic 2). sc 4 on the front of the shoe (Pic work around the wire.
3), and finally sc 4 along the other row end (Pic 4). Skip
the next 8 st and join to the beginning of the round Round 21-33: sc around. (12)
with a sl st (Pic 5-6). (12) Stuff the boot.
Round 17-20: sc around. (12)

AN AMIGURUMI PATTERN BY TALES OF TWISTED FIBERS 3

Round 34-35: Join black yarn and sc around. (12)
Round 36: With purple, sc around. (12)
Round 37-38: With black, sc around. (12)
Round 39: With purple, sc around. (12)
Round 40-41: With black, sc around. Fasten off this
color. (12)
Round 42: With purple, sl st in the front loop of the
next st and ch 1. Using FLO, hdc around, join with a sl
st to the beginning of the round.
Fasten off. Weave in yarn end and stuff. Before con-
tinuing with the leg, we will work on the boot cuff.
BOOT CUFF (make 2)
Round 1: Turn work upside down and join purple
yarn at Round 33 where the purple round of the boot
meets black round of the stocking (Pic 12). Ch 2 and
fphdc in all the stitches around (Pic 13). Join to the
beginning of the round with a sl st . (12)
Round 2: ch 2 and hdc around. Join to the beginning
4 VIOLET & IVY
of the round with a sl st. (12)
Fasten off and weave in yarn end.
LEG (make 2)
Round 1: Fold the purple hdc round of the stocking
outwards to reveal the back loop of Round 42. Join
light peach yarn on the back loop and sc around. (12)
Round 2-10: sc around . (12)
Fasten off and weave in yarn end. Stuff around
the wire carefully. Do not cut off the wire. We will
continue working around it.
BODY
Round 1: In this round, we will join the legs. Hold both legs
together, making sure the tips of the boots face away from
you. Using purple yarn, insert hook into the two stitches
that meet in the center (Pic 14), YO and make a sc. sc in
the next 23 st around both legs (Pic 15). (24)
Round 2-5: sc around. (24)
Hold the wires protruding from the legs and carefully
twist them together all the way to the top. Tape the
loose ends together with a masking tape (Pic 16, 17
& 18).
Round 6: Using BLO, sc around. (24)
Round 7-10: With purple, sc around. (24)
Round 11: With black, sc around. (24)
Round 12: With purple, sc around. (24)
Round 13: With black, sc around. (24)
Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to work another
round of slip stitches and also to sew in ends.
Round 14: Join light peach and sc around. (24)
Before we proceed, we will work on the neckline. Put
a stitch marker in your working loop to prevent your
crochetwork from fraying.
Neckline: With the tail of the black yarn left at the
end of Round 13, surface sl st around. Fasten off and
weave in yarn ends.
Stuff. Remove marker from the loop. We will now
continue working on the body.
Round 15: (sc 2, dec) X 6. (18)
Round 16: (sc 1, dec) X 6. (12)
Round 17: (sc 1, dec) X 4. (8)
Round 18-22: sc around. (8)
Stuff making sure the neck is stuffed firmly.
Round 23: dec X 4.
Fasten off. Sew gap close, if any.
SKIRT
Round 1: Holding the doll upside down, join purple
yarn on the front loop of Round 6 on the body. Ch
3, dc in the next st, dc inc in each of the next two
st. (dc in the next 2 st, dc inc in the next two st) X 5
times. Join to the beginning of the round with a sl
st. (36)
Round 2: ch 3, dc in the next st, dc inc in each of the
next four st, (dc in the next 2 st, dc inc in each of the
next 4 st) X 5 times. Join with a sl st. (60)
Round 3: Join black yarn, ch 1, sc around. Join with a
sl st. (60)
AN AMIGURUMI PATTERN BY TALES OF TWISTED FIBERS
Round 4: With purple, ch 1, sc around. Join with a sl
st. (60)
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
ARM (make 2)
Round 1: With light peach yarn, 3 sc in a magic ring. (3)
Round 2: Inc X 3. (6)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) X 3. (9)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) X 3. (12)
Round 5: sc around. (12)
Round 6: (sc 2, dec) X 3. (9)
Round 7-8: Join black and sc around. (9)
Round 9: Join purple and sc around. (9)
Round 10-11: With black, sc around. (9)
Round 12: With purple, sc around. (9)
Round 13-14: With black, sc around. (9)
Round 15: With purple, sc around. (9)
Round 16-17: With black, sc around. (9)
Round 18: With purple, sc around. (9) Fasten off this
color.
Round 19-20: With black, sc around. (9) Fasten off this
color.
Round 21: Join light peach and using BLO, sc around. (9)
Round 22-27: sc around. (9)
MAKING POSEABLE ARMS: Cut the yarn, leaving a
tail long enough to work one more round and sew. Do
not fasten off, instead put a stitch marker in your loop
to prevent your crochetwork from fraying.
We will now insert wire and stuff the arm. Measure the
length of the first arm, the area above the chest where
the wire will go through the body, and the second arm,
and add an additional inch / 2.5cm. This is the total
length of wire needed for both arms.
With a wire cutter, bend one end to make an eyelet.
Wrap with a masking tape as shown in Pic 19. Insert
this end into the first arm and stuff around it lightly
(Pic 20). You can use a crochet hook or the end of a
pencil as a stuffing tool.
Round 28: dec 4, sc 1 (Pic 21). (5)
5
Fasten off. Thread the yarn tail onto your yarn needle,
pick up the front loop only of these 5 stitches. Pull
tight to close the hole and weave in yarn end.
Insert the other end of the wire into the area where
the arm will be placed. Push the wire all the way
through to the other side where the second arm will
be attached (Pic 22). Bend the tip into an eyelet and
insert it into the second arm (Pic 23 & 24).
Stuff lightly. Complete Round 28. Fasten off the second
arm and sew the top of the second arm closed.
HEAD
Round 1: With light peach yarn, 8 sc in a magic ring. (8)
Round 2: inc X 8. (16)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) X 8. (24)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) X 8. (32)
Round 5: (sc 3, inc) X 8. (40)
Round 6-17: sc around. (40)
Round 18: (sc 3, dec) X 8. (32)
Note: Sew on eyes have been used in this amigurumi,
which can be sewed in place after the head has been
completed. However, if you prefer safety eyes with
washers, now would be a good time to insert them
between Round 12 & 13, with an interspace of 8 st.
Leave a little space between the eye and the washer.
6 VIOLET & IVY
Round 19: (sc 2, dec) X 8. (24)
Round 20: (sc 1, dec) X 8. (16)
Stuff, leaving space for neck insertion.
Round 21: dec X 8. (8)
Fasten off. Weave in yarn end.
DEFINE FACE: Following this step will bring the eyes
slightly together and define the face.
For face with sew on eyes: With pearl headed pins,
mark the points where you want the eyes to go, be-
tween Round 12 & 13, with an interspace of 8 st (Pic
25). Thread a yarn needle with light peach yarn and
insert it from the neck opening in the head, bringing
it out at one of the marked points (Pic 26). Push the
needle back in from the next stitch, bringing it out
from the second marked point (Pic 27). Again, push
the needle back in from the next stitch and out from
the neck opening (Pic 28). Remove pins and pull both
ends of the yarn tightly. Once you are satisfied with
the look, knot yarn ends to secure (Pic 29). Clip off
excess yarn and hide the knot inside the head. Sew
eyes in place.
For face with safety eyes: Thread a yarn needle with
light peach yarn and insert it from the neck opening
in the head, bringing it out at the inner corner of the
safety eye. Wind the yarn around the eye once and
push the needle back in from the inner corner to the
neck opening. Pull both ends of the yarn tightly. Once
you are satisfied with the look, knot yarn ends to se-
cure. Clip off excess yarn and hide the knot inside the
head. Repeat on the other eye.
DEFINE EYES: Thread a yarn needle with black em-
broidery thread. Insert needle from the neck opening
and embroider the embellishment around the eyes as
seen in the picture. (Pic 30).
NOSE: To embroider nose, sew 3 straight lines, 3
stitches long between the eyes (Pic 31, 32 & 33)
WIG
Round 1: With green yarn, 8 sc in a magic ring. (8)
Round 2: inc X 8. (16)
AN AMIGURUMI PATTERN BY TALES OF TWISTED FIBERS
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) X 8. (24)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) X 8. (32)
Next, we will work on the fringe.
Fringe 1: ch 7 and starting from 2nd ch from the hook,
hdc 6 along the chain, sc 1 in the next st on the cap, sl
st in the next st (Pic 34, 35, 36 & 37).
Fringe 2-4: (ch 6 and starting from 2nd ch from the
hook, hdc 5 along the chain, sc 1 in the next st on the
cap, sl st in the next st) X 3 times.
Fringe 5: ch 7 and starting from 2nd ch from the hook,
hdc 6 along the chain, sc 1 in the next st on the cap.
Now we will work on the longer hair strands.
Strand 1: sl st to the next st, ch 20 and starting from
second chain from the hook, hdc 19, sc in the next st
on the cap, sl st in the next st.
Strand 2: ch 18. Starting from second ch from the
hook, hdc 17, sc in the next st on the cap, sl st in the
next st.
7
8 VIOLET & IVY
Strand 3-10: ch 17. Starting from second ch from the
hook, hdc 17, sc in the next st on the cap, sl st in the
next st.
Strand 11: ch 18. Starting from second ch from the
hook, hdc 17, sc in the next st on the cap, sl st in the
next st.
Strand 12: ch 20. Starting from second ch from the
hook, hdc 18, sc in the next st on the cap.
At this point, the wig should look like Pic 38.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the wig on to
the head. Place the wig on head, aligning the centers
(magic ring) of the head and wig. Pin all the strands
in place (Pic 39 & 40) and sew all the hair sections
together, two strands at a time, as shown in Pic 41
& 42. Do not sew all the way down to the end of the
strands. Instead allow the individual hair ends to flip
out.
ATTACH HEAD: To make the head of your amiguru-
mi movable, thread green yarn and insert the needle
from the center of the magic ring on the wig (Pic 43)
and out from the neck opening (Pic 44).
Count 5 rounds down from the top of the neck.
Now insert your needle through the neck at this
point (Pic 45), back through the neck opening on
the head(Pic 46), bringing it out from the magic ring
again (Pic 47). Slide the head down the two strands
of yarn until it sits perfectly on the neck (Pic 48).
Knot the yarn ends together a few times to secure
and clip off excess yarn. Push any remaining yarn
back into the head.
TOP HAT
Round 1: With purple yarn, 8 sc in a magic ring. (8)
Round 2: inc X 8. (16)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) X 8. (24)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) X 8. (32)
Round 5: Working in BLO, sc around. (32)
Round 6-8: sc around. (32)
Round 9: (sc 2, dec) X 8. (24)
Round 10-15: sc around. (24)
Round 16-17: Join black yarn and sc around. (24) Fas-
ten off this color.
Round 18: With purple, sl st in the next st. ch 1 and
working in FLO, (sc 1, inc) X 12. Join with a sl st to the
beginning of the round. (36)
Round 19: ch 1, (sc 2, inc) X 12. Join with a sl st to the
beginning of the round. (48)
Round 20: ch 1, sc around. Join with a sl st to the be-
ginning of the round. (48)
Fasten off and weave in yarn end. Pin hat on head and
sew in place.

Hang out with Violet!

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AN AMIGURUMI PATTERN BY TALES OF TWISTED FIBERS 9

Materials
Yarn for Ivy: Sock weight yarn in black,
green, light peach, purple, and orange
2.5 mm crochet hook
A pair of 8 mm sew on eyes
Fiber fill
Black embroidery thread
Yarn needle
Craft wire
Wire cutter
Masking tape
Pearl headed pins

Finished size: 10.5 inches to the top of her

head (without measuring the hat)
Skill level: Intermediate

Terminology (US)
chain (ch)
magic ring
single crochet (sc)
double crochet (dc)
increase (inc)
double crochet increase (dc inc)
decrease (dec)
slip stitch (sl st)
front loop only (FLO)
back loop only (BLO)
half double crochet (hdc)
front post half double crochet (fphdc)
yarn over (YO)
surface slip stitch (surface sl st)
reverse single crochet (reverse sc)

NOTE: Most of the step-by-step images

used here show the amigurumi in a
different color. This has been done for the
sake of clarity since stitches made in black
acrylic yarn doesnt photograph well.

2014 Tales of Twisted Fibers

All rights reserved.
You may not sell/redistribute/publish this pattern.
Finished products made from this pattern may be
sold by indie crafters provided you credit Tales of
Twisted Fibers as the designer.
10 VIOLET & IVY
Instructions for Ivy
BOOT & STOCKING (make 2)
Round 1: With black yarn, sc 3 in a magic ring. (3)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (6)
Round 3-4: sc around. (6)
Round 5: (sc 1, inc) X 3. (9)
Round 6-7: sc around. (9)
Round 8: (sc 2, inc) X 3. (12)
Round 9-11: sc around. (12)
From this point onwards, work in rows to make the
heel.
Row 12-15: ch 1, turn, sc 8. (8)
From here on, we go back to working in the round.
Round 16: ch 1, do not turn (Pic 1). Working along
the row end, sc 4 (Pic 2). sc 4 on the front of the shoe
(Pic 3), and finally sc 4 along the other row end (Pic
4). Skip the next 8 st and join to the beginning of the
round with a sl st (Pic 5-6). (12)
Round 17-20: sc around. (12)
AN AMIGURUMI PATTERN BY TALES OF TWISTED FIBERS
WIRING THE SHOE: Take a 13 inch long wire and
bend it at 1.5 inch (Pic 7). This will go into the toe
area. Next, measure 1.8 inch from the last bent point
and bend it upwards as shown in the image (Pic 8).
This will be the heel. Wrap masking tape over the wire
to prevent the loose end from poking out (Pic 9) and
carefully insert the wire into the boot (Pic 10).
Thread a yarn needle with black yarn and sew the gap
at the heel closed. Stuff around the wire lightly, mak-
ing sure to leave the tip of the shoe unstuffed. Bend
the tip of the boot upwards as shown in the image
(Pic 11). From the next round onwards, we will work
around the wire.
Round 21-33: sc around. (12)
Stuff the boot.
11
Round 34-35: Join green yarn and sc around. (12)
Round 36: With black, sc around. (12)
Round 37-38: With green, sc around. (12)
Round 39: With black, sc around. (12)
Round 40-41: With green, sc around. Fasten off this
color. (12)
Round 42: With black, sl st in the front loop of the
next st and ch 1. Using FLO, hdc around, join with a sl
st to the beginning of the round.
Fasten off. Weave in yarn end and stuff.
Before continuing with the leg, we will work on the
boot cuff.
BOOT CUFF (make 2)
Round 1: Turn work upside down and join black yarn
at Round 33 where the black round of the boot meets
green round of the stocking (Pic 12). Ch 2 and front
post hdc in all the stitches around (Pic 13). Join to the
beginning of the round with a sl st . (12)
12
Round 2: ch 2 and hdc around. Join to the beginning
of the round with a sl st. (12)
Fasten off and weave in yarn end.
LEG (make 2)
Round 1: Fold the black hdc round of the stocking
outwards to reveal the back loop of Round 42. Join
light peach (skin color) yarn on the back loop and sc
around. (12)
Round 2-10: sc around . (12)
Fasten off and weave in yarn end. Stuff around
the wire carefully. Do not cut off the wire. We will
continue working around it.
BODY
Round 1: In this round, we will join the legs. Hold both
legs together, making sure the tips of the boots face
away from you. Using black yarn, insert hook into the
VIOLET & IVY
two stitches that meet in the center at the back (Pic
14), YO and make a sc. Sc in the next 23 st around
both legs (Pic 15). (24)
Round 2-5: sc around. (24)
Hold the wires protruding from the legs and careful-
ly twist them together all the way to the top. Tape
the loose ends together with a masking tape (Pic
16, 17 & 18).
Round 6: Using BLO, sc around. (24)
Round 7-13: sc around. (24)
Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to work another
round of slip stitches and also to sew in ends.
Round 14: Join light peach and sc around. (24)
Before we proceed, we will work on the neckline. Put
a stitch marker in your working loop to prevent your
crochetwork from fraying
Neckline: With the tail of the black yarn left at the
end of Round 13, surface sl st around. Fasten off and
weave in yarn ends.
Stuff. Remove marker from the loop. We will now con-
tinue working on the body.
Round 15: (sc 2, dec) X 6. (18)
Round 16: (sc 1, dec) X 6. (12)
Round 17: (sc 1, dec) X 4. (8)
Round 18-22: sc around. (8)
Stuff making sure the neck is stuffed firmly.
Round 23: dec X 4.
Fasten off. Sew gap close, if any.
SKIRT
Round 1: Holding the doll upside down, join purple
yarn on the front loop of Round 6 on the body. Ch 3,
dc in the next st, dc inc in each of the next two st. (dc
in the next 2 st, dc inc in the next two st) X 5 times.
Join to the beginning of the round with a sl st. (36)
Round 2: ch 3, dc in the next st, dc inc in each of the
next four st, (dc in the next 2 st, dc inc in each of the
next 4 st) X 5 times. Join with a sl st. (60)
AN AMIGURUMI PATTERN BY TALES OF TWISTED FIBERS
Round 3: Join black yarn, ch 1, sc around. Join with a
sl st. (60)
Round 4: With purple, ch 1, sc around. Join with a sl
st. (60)
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
ARM (make 2)
Round 1: With black yarn, 3 sc in a magic ring. (3)
Round 2: Inc X 3. (6)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) X 3. (9)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) X 3. (12)
Round 5: sc around. (12)
Round 6: (sc 2, dec) X 3. (9)
Round 7-8: sc around. (9)
Round 9-10: Join green and sc around. (9)
Round 11: With black, sc around. (9)
Round 12-13: With green, sc around. (9)
Round 14: With black, sc around. (9)
Round 15-16: With green, sc around. (9)
Round 17: With black, sc around. (9)
Round 18-19: With green, sc around. (9)
Round 20: With black, sc around. (9)
Round 21: Join light peach and using BLO, sc around. (9)
Round 22-27: sc around. (9)
MAKING POSEABLE ARMS: Cut the yarn, leaving a
tail long enough to work one more round and sew. Do
not fasten off, instead put a stitch marker in your loop
to prevent your crochetwork from fraying.
We will now insert wire and stuff the arm. Measure
the length of the first arm, the area above the chest
where the wire will go through the body, and the sec-
ond arm, and add an additional inch. This is the total
length of wire needed for both arms.
With a wire cutter, bend one end to make an eyelet.
Wrap with a masking tape as shown in Pic 19. Insert
this end into the first arm and stuff around it lightly
(Pic 20). You can use a crochet hook or the end of a
pencil as a stuffing tool.
Round 28: dec 4, sc 1 (Pic 21). (5)
13
Fasten off. Thread the yarn tail onto your yarn needle,
pick up the front loop only of these 5 stitches. Pull
tight to close the hole and weave in yarn end.
Insert the other end of the wire into the area where
the arm will be placed. Push the wire all the way
through to the other side where the second arm will
be attached (Pic 22). Bend the tip into an eyelet and
insert it into the second arm (Pic 23 & 24).
Stuff lightly. Complete Round 28. Fasten off the second
arm and sew the top of the second arm closed.
HEAD
Round 1: With light peach yarn, 8 sc in a magic ring.
(8)
Round 2: inc X 8. (16)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) X 8. (24)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) X 8. (32)
Round 5: (sc 3, inc) X 8. (40)
Round 6-17: sc around. (40)
Round 18: (sc 3, dec) X 8. (32)
Note: Sew on eyes have been used in this amigurumi,
which can be sewed in place after the head has been
completed. However, if you prefer safety eyes with
washers, now would be a good time to insert them
14
between Round 12 & 13, with an interspace of 8 st.
Leave a little space between the eye and the washer.
Round 19: (sc 2, dec) X 8. (24)
Round 20: (sc 1, dec) X 8. (16)
Stuff, leaving space for neck insertion.
Round 21: dec X 8. (8)
Fasten off. Weave in yarn end.
DEFINE FACE: Following this step will bring the eyes
slightly together and define the face.
For face with sew on eyes: With pearl headed pins,
mark the points where you want the eyes to go, be-
tween Round 12 & 13, with an interspace of 8 st (Pic
25). Thread a yarn needle with light peach yarn and
insert it from the neck opening in the head, bringing
it out at one of the marked points (Pic 26). Push the
needle back in from the next stitch, bringing it out
from the second marked point (Pic 27). Again, push
the needle back in from the next stitch and out from
the neck opening (Pic 28). Remove pins and pull both
ends of the yarn tightly. Once you are satisfied with
the look, knot yarn ends to secure (Pic 29). Clip off
excess yarn and hide the knot inside the head. Sew
eyes in place.
VIOLET & IVY
For face with safety eyes: Thread a yarn needle with
light peach yarn and insert it from the neck opening
in the head, bringing it out at the inner corner of the
safety eye. Wind the yarn around the eye once and
push the needle back in from the inner corner to the
neck opening. Pull both ends of the yarn tightly. Once
you are satisfied with the look, knot yarn ends to se-
cure. Clip off excess yarn and hide the knot inside the
head. Repeat on the other eye.
DEFINE EYES: Thread a yarn needle with black em-
broidery thread. Insert needle from the neck opening
and embroider the embellishment around the eyes as
seen in the picture. (Pic 30).
NOSE: To embroider nose, sew 3 straight lines, 3
stitches long between the eyes (Pic 31, 32 & 33)
AN AMIGURUMI PATTERN BY TALES OF TWISTED FIBERS
WIG
Round 1: With purple yarn, 8 sc in a magic ring. (8)
Round 2: inc X 8. (16)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) X 8. (24)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) X 8. (32)
Next, we will work on the fringe.
Fringe 1: ch 7 and starting from 2nd ch from the hook,
hdc 6 along the chain, sc 1 in the next st on the cap, sl
st in the next st. (Pic 34, 35, 36 & 37).
Fringe 2-4: (ch 6 and starting from 2nd ch from the
hook, hdc 5 along the chain, sc 1 in the next st on the
cap, sl st in the next st) X 3 times.
Fringe 5: ch 7 and starting from 2nd ch from the hook,
hdc 6 along the chain, sc 1 in the next st on the cap.
We will work in rows on the reminder of the 23 st on
the wig here on.
15
Row 1: inc, sc in the next 21 st, inc, ch 1, turn. (25) from the neck
Row 2-5: sc across, ch 1, turn. (25) opening (Pic 39).
Row 6: Inc, sc in the next 23 st, inc, ch 1, turn. (27) Count 5 rounds
Row 7-9: sc across, ch 1, turn. (27) down from the
Row 10: inc, sc in the next 25 st, inc, ch 1, turn. (29) top of the neck.
Row 11-13: sc across, ch 1, turn. (29) Now insert your
Row 14: inc, sc in the next 27 st, inc, ch 1, turn. (31) needle through
Row 15-17: sc across, ch 1, turn. (31) the neck at this
sc along both the row ends to make it even. point (Pic 40), back through the neck opening on the
head (Pic 41), bringing it out from the magic ring again
Place the wig on head, aligning the centers (magic (Pic 42). Slide the head down the two strands of yarn
ring) of the head and wig. Pin in place and sew the until it sits perfectly on the neck (Pic 43). Knot the yarn
fringes in place with a few tacks. Also sew along the ends together a few times to secure and clip off excess
row ends and stop after you reach 3/4th length of yarn. Push any remaining yarn back into the head.
the head. Flip the ends of the hair outwards with
your fingers.
WITCH HAT
ATTACH HEAD: To make the head of your amigurumi Round 1: With black yarn, 3 sc in a magic ring. (3)
movable, thread purple yarn and insert the needle from Round 2: inc X 3. (6)
the center of the magic ring on the wig (Pic 38) and out Round 3: (sc 1, inc) X 3. (9)

16 VIOLET & IVY

Round 4-6: sc around. (9)
Round 7: (sc 2, inc) X 3. (12)
Round 8-10: sc around. (12)
Round 11: (sc 3, inc) X 3. (15)
Round 12-13: sc around. (15)
Round 14: (sc 4, inc) X 3. (18)
Round 15: (sc 5, inc) X 3. (21)
Round 16: (sc 6, inc) X 3. (24)
Round 17-18: Join green yarn and sc around. (24)
Round 19: With black, sl st in the next st, ch 1. Work-
ing in FLO, (sc 1, inc) X 12. Join with a sl st to the
beginning of the round. (36)
Round 20: ch 1, (sc 2, inc) X 12. (48)
Round 21: ch 1, sc around. Join to the beginning of the
round with a sl st.
Fasten off and weave in yarn end. Pin hat on head and
sew in place.
BASKET
Inner Base
Round 1: With black yarn, 8 sc in a magic ring. (8)
Round 2: inc X 8. (16)
Round 3: (sc 1, inc) X 8. (24)
Round 4: (sc 2, inc) X 8. (32)
Round 5: (sc 3, inc) X 8. (40)
Fasten off and weave in yarn end. Keep aside.
AN AMIGURUMI PATTERN BY TALES OF TWISTED FIBERS
Outer Base
Round 1-5: With orange yarn, follow steps for the
inside base. At the end of Round 5, sl st in the next st.
Do not fasten off. Hold both circles together, wrong
sides facing. We will join them in the next round.
Round 6: ch 2, insert your hook through the back
loops of both the circles and hdc around. Join to the
beginning of the round with a sl st. (40)
Round 7-11: ch 2, hdc around, join with sl st. (40)
Round 12: ch 1, reverse sc around. (40)
We will make the basket handle in the next step.
Handle: ch 24, count 19 st from the working stitch and
join with a sl st. hdc back along the 24 ch and join to
the basket rim with a sl st.
Fasten off. Weave in yarn end.
Bow (make 2)
With black yarn, ch 4 and 2 dc in the first ch (or the last
chain from the hook). Ch 3 and sl st into the same st.
This completes the first half of the bow. Ch 4, 2 dc in
the same st, ch 3 and sl st into the same st. the bow is
now complete. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Wind this
tail a few times around the center of the bow. Thread a
yarn needle with the cut off yarn tail and sew to secure
the wrap. Attach it to the base of the basket handle.
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