1.

Mix 10-10-10 fertilizer into the soil with a shovel before planting to a depth of 4
inches, about 3 ounces for every 100 square feet of area. The numbers on the fertilizer
label indicate the percentages of three critical nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus and
potassium. A 10-10-10 is said to be a balanced fertilizer in that it has equal amounts of
these three critical nutrients.
2. Side-dress plants with fertilizer again when the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall and
again two to three weeks later. Side-dressing is a method of providing fertilizer on an
as-needed basis during the most vigorous growth periods. Dig a shallow trench about six
inches from the base of the plants and apply the granulated fertilizer to the bottom of the
trench, following package directions for the proper amount. Cover the fertilizer with soil.
Water the trench thoroughly to allow the fertilizer to dissolve and soak into the root zone.
3. Reapply the fertilizer every four to six weeks during the growing season. Irrigate the soil
each time you apply fertilizer.
4. Apply additional fertilizer as a side-dressing if heavy rains occur during the growing
season. Heavy rains can wash away previous fertilizer applications, leaving the soil
depleted of nutrients for the plants.

Tips

5. Okra prefers a pH range of 5.8 to 6.8. To adjust the pH to this range, gradually add sulfur
to lower the pH value, making soil more acidic, or calcium carbonate or lime to raise the
pH value, making it more alkaline. These components are available at most garden
centers. Mix the appropriate component into the soil in small amounts and retest with a
soil pH test kit.
6. When planting from seed, soak the seeds in water overnight to tenderize the hard
covering for easier germination.
7. Chicken manure can also be used instead of chemical fertilizer. Chicken manure is high
in phosphorus and potassium, which are important components for crop production.
Chicken manure that is processed does not have an objectionable odor

I. Gardeners with limited growing space strive to balance the space with edible and
ornamental plants. This is especially easy when an edible plant exhibits showy flowers,
adding beauty as well as food to the garden. A relative of hibiscus (Hibiscus spp.), okra
(Abelmoschus esculentus) features edible, finger-like pods and large flowers similar to
ornamental hibiscus flowers, usually in shades of white or creamy yellow with a deep red
center. While gardeners traditionally grow this heat-loving plant in the ground, pots make
it possible to grow okra on balconies and patios and extend the growing season for cooler
climates.
II. Select a pot for the okra plant that is at least 10 inches in diameter. You can use a 10-
inch or larger pot from a garden center or use a 5-gallon bucket, which has a top diameter
of about 12 inches and a bottom diameter of about 10 1/2 inches.
III. Drill 1/4 inch or smaller holes in the bottom of the container and line the bottom with
gravel or broken pottery pieces to allow excess water to easily drain from the soil.
The pot requires a plate or tray to catch excess water as it drains from the bottom of the
pot.
 IV. Place the pot in a location that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight each day
and where nighttime temperatures are no less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Okra seeds
germinate best when soil temperatures are between 75 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
The pot becomes quite heavy when filled with watered potting mix, so you may find it
easier to place the pot in the desired location when it is empty.
V. Prepare a potting mix for the pot or choose a bagged mix that drains well. You can use a
soilless potting mix, containing equal parts sphagnum peat, sand and vermiculite, or
amend garden soil with equal parts garden soil, organic matter, sand and
vermiculite. Garden soil compacts rapidly in container gardens without the addition of
organic matter, sand and vermiculite to improve soil porosity and drainage.
VI. Mix a complete fertilizer with the potting mixture, such as 10-10-10, or a high-
nitrogen and high-phosphorous fertilizer, such as 20-20-10. Supplemental nitrogen
prepares the okra plant for the long growing season, but too much nitrogen leads too
excess foliage and lackluster pods.
VII. Fill the pot with the potting mix to within 1/2 inch of the container edge. If you
prefer, you can blend the potting mixture directly in the pot, but using a larger container
to mix the ingredients prevents spilling over the edge.
VIII. Plant three to five seeds near the center of the pot, spacing each seed 1 to 2 inches
apart, then cover them with 1/4 inch of potting mix. Planting multiple seeds increases
the chances that at least one seed will germinate. Delicate okra roots make transplanting
seedlings difficult, so sowing the seeds directly in the large pot eliminates the risk of
damaging the roots.
IX. Water the soil as needed to keep the soil moist until seedlings emerge. After plants are
well established, drought-tolerant okra should only require weekly supplemental
watering, especially during the flowering and fruiting period.
X. Thin the seedlings to only one plant for each pot, choosing the most vigorous of the
seedlings after two or more sets of leaves develop.
XI. Apply a nitrogen fertilizer side dressing at least once during the growing season,
such as when plants are about 8 inches tall and again a few weeks later. Nitrogen
sources include urea, bloodmeal and poultry manure; regular compost application
can provide the necessary nutrients without a nitrogen-specific source. General guidelines
for side dressing fertilizers suggest 5 tablespoons for every 10 feet in a garden row, so 1/2
tablespoon of nitrogen fertilizer benefits a plant in a 12-inch container. Remember
that too much nitrogen hurts okra production, so it is best to add too little nitrogen.
XII. Pinch the leaves at the ends of the okra branches when the plant reaches 2 feet tall.
This forces the plant to branch, leading to more okra pods.
XIII. Cut okra pods from the plant when they are 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches long, while the pods are
young and tender. Check the plants several times a week so you don't leave mature pods
on the plant, which prevents the plant from producing new flowers and okra pods.
XIV. Things You Will Need

10-inch pot or larger

Power drill
Drill bits
Gravel
Sphagnum peat
 Sand
Vermiculite
Organic matter
Complete fertilizer
Nitrogen fertilizer
Bypass pruners

Tips

Start okra seeds about two weeks after danger of frost has passed. Maturity depends on
the okra variety, usually between 50 and 60 days.
You can soak okra seeds in buttermilk or vinegar for 24 hours or scratch the seeds
with a file or sandpaper to soften the hard seed coat, making it easier for the seeds to
germinate.
Choose a smaller okra cultivar, such as semi-dwarf "Lee" and "Prelude" or dwarf cultivar
"Blondy" for best results when grown in a pot.