r Pi - Instructions for the use of the Kodak KODAK LIMITED LONDON"HEReegwgeesektenstiestentesteetea#ttuggeeu#ltestugs sa Instructions for the use of the ISO ID AAUS GLAZING MACHINE SECTION I SECTION II SECTION III SECTION Illa SECTION IV MODEL 15TC CONTENTS INSTALLATION 1. Assembling the stand 2. Connecting to electricity supply 3. Preliminary test Ads OPERATION . - General . Washing Final rinse Glazing . Cleaning the drum , . Glazing faults , euRene MAINTENANCE - Mechanical 1, General care . 2. Changing the conveyor cloth 3. Adjusting the mangle roller 4, Adjusting the squeegee roller . MAINTENANCE = Electrical 5. Changing the heater bar . Changing the drum, . Overhauling the motor . Replacing the suppressor unit . Adjusting the speeds of the drum 10. Changing the speed regulator (rheostat) 11, Changing the rotary switch 12, Fitting a new fuse 13. Adjusting the drum temperature 14, Replacing the indicator lamps. yang SERVICE PARTS . References in this book to ‘left’ or ‘right’ apply when the machine is viewed from the front.® THE ‘KODAK’ GLAZING MACHINE MODEL 15TC is simple ‘to operate and maintain. A high degree of skill on the part of the operator is not necessary provided that the recommendations and advice contained in this booklet are observed. ‘When the machine is switched on, the thermostat automatically maintains the drum at the correct glazing temperature. When running idle the main heater is automatically switched off until the drum temperature falls below that required for efficient glazing. The machine thus operates with maximum economy and the operator is relieved of considerable responsibility. Note: The instructions in this booklet are for black-and-white prints only, and do not apply to drying or glazing colour prints. 2 ee = 1 7 3 Jaie j J 4 4 4d SECTION I INSTALLATION Be careful not to soil the conveyor cloth or damage the drum during installation, and do not remove the flannelette cover from the drum until the machine is ready for running. Install the machine on its stand or a suitable bench about 2 feet 6 inches high, within easy reach of the final washing tank (about 6 fect away is recommended), Clean any dust or packing material from the machine. Iris essential that the glazing machine be installed in a well ventilated room, If the room is not sufficiently ventilated, the atmosphere may become 80 moisture-laden that the conveyor cloth, and consequently the prints, will not dry properly. I Assembling the stand The stand is of welded tubular construction. It is dismantled and packed flat for convenience in transit. A small adjustable spanner and a medium-size screwdriver are the only tools necessary for assembly. First remove the packing from the various parts, then lay themout ready to hand. Remove the bolts and washers from the ends of the “Z” shaped tie- bars, then, holding the side frames vertically, locate the ends of the tie-bars against the bosses set in the tubular legs so that the holes coincide (see Figure 1). With one washer against the head of each bolt, insert the bolts through the holes in the side frames and screw them into the ends of the tie-bars. Tighten the bolts firmly to secure. Next remove the nuts, washers and bolts from the front legs of the stand, then locate one angle bracket against each front leg so that the holes coincide. With one washer against the head of each bolt, in- sert the bolts first through the angle bracket then through the legs of the stand (see Figure 2). Replace one washer over cach of the protruding ends of the ad bolts then screw on the nuts and tighten them firmly to secure. Remove the two wood- screws from the cross-pieces of the wooden shelf and seat the shelf between the angle brackets so that the holes coincide. Insert the woodscrews first through the holes in the brackets and screw them home into the shelf. Remove the four sets of nuts, washers and bolts from the FIGURE IFIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 top of the stand, then place the ‘Kodak’ Glazing Machine squarely on the stand so that the front of the machine faces the same way as the shelf (see Figure 3). Carefully manoeuvre the machine so that the slots in the feet coincide with the holes in the stand: with one washer against the head of each bolt, insert the bolts through the holes in the stand from underneath. Replace the remaining washers over the protruding ends of the bolts inside the feet of the glazing machine and screw on the nuts. Make any final adjustments to the position of the machine then tighten the nuts firmly to secure. To enable the structure to stand firmly on an uneven floor, the rear right leg of the stand is fitted with an adjustable foot. Move the assembly into the desired position in the workroom. If the machine rocks slightly, slacken the locknut at the bottom of the bolt and turn the bolt until all four legs bear the weight evenly. Tighten the locknut to secure. 2 Connecting to electricity supply It is recommended that the connection of the ‘Kodak’ Glazing Machine Model 15TC to the electricity supply be carried out by a qualified electrician who should install it in accordance with local regulations. NOTES FOR THE ELECTRICIAN The glazer must be used on a.c. supplies only, and within the voltage range stamped on the nameplate. The maximum power consumption at 250 volts is approximately 1,000 watts. The glazer is intended for use on supply installations which in- corporate a third-wire earth connection. ‘The three-core flexible cable fitted 4 aa 2 8ee ee ee ee ee ee | 1 1 1 J J i d d 4 4d embodies red and black supply leads, and a third lead marked caRTH. Connect the RED lead to the LIVE line and the BLACK lead to the NEUTRAL line. Connect the lead marked EARTH to the earthed point. If the electricity supply does not incorporate a third-wire earth con- nection, connect the lead marked EARTH to the nearest efficiently earthed point by means of copper wire and an earthing clip. NEVER connect the EARTH lead to either of the supply terminals. 3 Preliminary test ‘Test the running of the machine as follows: (a) Rotate the drum by means of the winding handle on the driving roller spindle, and remove the flannelette cover. Store this cover carefully for future use. (@) Switch on the electricity supply to the machine. Move the speed regulator to the top of its slot then turn the rotary switch to “on”. When the machine is switched on both indicator lamps will glow, the drum will start to rotate and the thermostat control lamp will light. The light from the control lamp can be seen through the conveyor cloth at the top of the machine, The green lamp indicates when the power is on, and the red lamp when the main heaters are on. ‘The red lamp (and the control lamp) should stay on continuously for 15 to 20 minutes and, from then on, operate intermittently. During storage, the grease in the gear-box, etc., may have become stiff, causing the motor to appear sluggish when first switched on, After running an hour or two this condition will correct itself and the glazer will work at the proper speed. Before the machine leaves the Kodak factory the speeds of the drum are set to suit the voltage and type of supply for which it is ordered. If, however, it is used on supplies different from that originally intended, the drum speed may need to be adjusted as detailed in Section Hla, Sub- section 9. Other than this the adjustment of drum speeds is seldom required. Other simple adjustments to ensure best possible performance and trouble-free running are also described in Sections LIT and IHa. To prevent any foreign matter carried by the water adhering to the print surface, it is advisable to fit an efficient filter in the water pipe leading to the print washer. SECTION II OPERATION | General Check that the glazing drum is clean. Refer to Sub-section 5 if drum requires cleaning. The rotary main switch has two “on” positions and two “orr” positions. The knob may be rotated in either direction whichever is more convenient.When the machine is first switched on, both the green indicator lamp and the red indicator lamp will glow. The green lamp indicates that the power is on and the red lamp indicates that the heaters are on. Operating in conjunction with the red indicator light is a control lamp situated above the thermostat pick-up shoe. The light from this lamp can be seen through the conveyor cloth at the top of the machine, and it should always be in. unison with the red indicator light. After first switching on, always let the machine run at full speed for at least 45 minutes, in order to allow the drum temperature to stabilize, before commencing to glaze prints. The red light will go out after the machine has been running for about 15 to 20 minutes, thereafter it will go on and off frequently. When prints are being glazed, the red light will stay on for longer periods than when the machine is running idle. The green light is on all the time the machine is switched on. Pull the squeegee handle forwards and downwards to apply squeegee pressure for glazing (Figure 4). In general, single weight papers will glaze faster than double weight papers. The position of the speed regulator to suit individual papers and conditions is best determined by experiment. Move the speed regulator upwards to increase the speed and downwards to decrease it. ‘When the machine jis not in use the squeegee pressure should be released by pushing the squeegee handle upwards and backwards. Use an acid hardening fixing bath such as ‘Kodafix’ Solution (in the proportion of 1 part ‘Kodafix’ to 7 parts water) or a solution containing 25 per cent hypo crystals with 5 per cent ‘Kodak’ Liquid Hardener added, for fixing all prints. 2 Washing For normal requirements of print life, wash for the length of time recommended in the instructions packed with the material. Prints should be well agitated by a rapid flow of water, or alternatively soaked for five minutes in cach of several changes of water, at a temperature between 15°C and 21°C (60-70°F). At lower temperatures or with low-efficiency washing equipment, the recommended time may have to be considerably increased. When the washing time is notably shorter than that recommended a lower degree of permanence will result and the conveyor cloth will, in time, become contaminated with hypo and fixing products. This will lead ultimately to staining of the cloth and the possibility of staining sub- sequent prints. 3 Final rinse An essential requirement for satisfactory glazing is that the prints are evenly wetted; there should be neither local collection of excess water nor partially dry patches. Even distribution of water over the prints is 6 H Ij J J jd jd 4 J greatly helped if they are given a final rinse, for about 30 seconds, in a bath made up of | part concentrated Kodak ‘Photo-Flo’ Solution (as sold in 80 oz bottles) to 600 parts of water. It is important that the strength of this bath does not exceed 1 ‘Photo-Flo’ to 600 parts of water. A weaker solution can be tolerated but a stronger solution may give rise to glazing difficulties. 4 Glazing Before commencing to glaze prints be sure the machine has been running for at least 45 minutes in order to stabilize the drum temperature. Remove the prints from the final wash tank, or rinse bath, allowing only the excess water to drain off. Any collection of water at the draining edge should be wiped away with the finger. It is important that prints placed on the conveyor cloth should be evenly wetted (see Sub-section 3 - Final rinse). Place the prints FACE UPWaRps on the conveyor, square with the drum ‘easonably close to each other. Prints should be placed side by side, utilising the full width of the drum, and always loaded from right to left. Do not feed prints one behind the other. The object of utilising the full width of the drum, and working from right to left, is to ensure efficient operation of the thermostat. Prints must not overlap, neither must they overhang the edges of the cloth. Whenever possible it is advisable not to place prints over the join in the cloth. It is essential to keep the machine and the workroom spotlessly clean, and the drum surface highly polished. Change the cleaning cloths fre- quently. 5 Cleaning the drum It is important that every possible care is taken to prevent damage to the surface of the glazing drum, and only soft clean cloths should be used for cleaning it. “Selvyt’ cloth dusters are recommended. Ifa cloth is dropped ‘on the floor, it must be washed and dried to remove all dust and grit, before it is used again. A dirty cloth may damage the drum surface. Damage to the drum can also be caused by operators wearing rings or bracelets whilst cleaning or polishing the surface. Other than wiping the drum surface with dry or damp cloths whilst glazing, the drum can be cleaned only when it is cold. Before cleaning a cold drum, cover the conveyor cloth with a sheet of plastic or other waterproof material. ‘Wipe the drum surface horizontally with a 2 per cent solution of acetic acid. In areas where this solution cleans the drum, and removes chalky deposits, the film of moisture will break up into droplets. Where gelatine has adhered to the surface of the drum, the film of moisture will appear 7more even and unbroken. Clean the gelatine from the drum surface with genuine ‘Silvo” polish (made by Reckitt and Sons) rubbed on, and polished off, around the circumference of the drum, and Nov across from side to side. Repeat this process until wiping with 2 per cent acetic acid solution produces a broken-up film over any part of the drum, thus showing no evidence of gelatine. Finally, wipe and polish the drum with clean dry cloths, In cases where the drum is too heavily coated with gelatine for ‘Silvo’ polish to be effective, a special powder known as ‘Cleaning Powder B.P.A. No. 1 Fine, for Stainless Steel Glazing Drums’ may be used. This powder is obtainable from Kodak Limited, Equipment Services, Stevenage, Herts, and should be applied to the drum in the following manner. Make a thin watery paste with the powder, and apply to the cold drum with a soft damp cloth or pad of cotton wool. Work on a small area of the drum at a time, rubbing around the circumference of the drum and not from side to side across the drum. Continue rubbing until there is no break in the liquid film. Allow the paste to dry, then wipe off the powder with a lint-free cloth. Finally polish the drum with ‘Silvo’ polish until a broken film is obtained when the drum is rinsed with water. ‘Note: Cleaning with this powder is not recommended as regular routine and should only be carried out when necessary. Ordinary scouring powders must never be used as they will damage the drum surface. 6 Glazing faults A poorly ventilated room is not conducive to satisfactory glazing, since it may give rise to a high ambient humidity. Such conditions may prevent the conveyor cloth and the prints from drying properly, which, as well as contributing to glazing faults, also slows up the output. Machines which have been used for matt-drying will often subsequently give poor glazing results. ‘There may be other possible causes for unsatisfactory glazing which are peculiar to the individual installation or locality. One such cause is the ature of the local water supply. In these cases, the cause and effect are too indeterminate to be dealt with categorically and can only be identified by investigation on the site. Most glazing faults, however, fall in four main categories, for which specific causes and remedies can be tabulated as follows: FLECK MARKS Unglazed spots on the surface of the prints due to lack of contact between the prints and the drum surface. Possible causes are: (@ Incorrect adjustment of the squeegee roller (see Section HII, Sub- section 4). ; (ii) Prints being too dry when they are fed into the glazing machine. Prints must have an even film of water over them (see Sub-section 3), iii) Too much hardener in the fixing bath, Use a fresh solution of “Kodafix’ T 1 W v Se & & = 2lll i ee | DRIVING ROLLER MANDAE [DRUM BEARING CO¥ER Prine TRAY FIGURE 4 TRACKING MOLLER 1 ante MOLLER ADQISTERS RGN ROLLER FIGURE 5 SqutEGet ROLE(147) or a solution containing 25 per cent hypo crystals with 5 per cent ‘Kodak’ Liquid Hardener added. Follow the directions packed with the paper. In the tropics ‘Kedak" Formulae F.5 and $B.4 are more suitable. (iv) The glazing drum is too hot, (See Section IIa Sub-section 13 ~ Adjusting the drum temperature). “Bdge-lifting” and unglazed patches are aggravated conditions of “fleck-marking”. Foreign matter from the wash water which has adhered to the surface of the print can sometimes give the same appearance as “fleck-marking”. This indicates the need for the use of a water filter as recommended in Section 1, Sub-section 3. OYSTER SHELL MARKING Wavy marks on the glazed surface of the prints, sometimes amounting to definite cracks, is known as “oyster shell marking”. This condition is caused by insufficient drying and means that: (@ The prints have been fed into the glazer before the drum has reached full glazing heat. Always allow at least 45 minutes warming up time. (ii) The drum is revolving too fast. Adjust the speed control. (iii) The glazing drum is not hot enough (see Section Ifa Sub-section 13 - Adjusting the drum temperature). (iv) Prints have been fed into the glazer with too much water on them (see Sub-section 3). GLAZING MOTTLE OR DISCOLORATION A yellowish-brown stain, sometimes showing a patchy, mottled effect, and sometimes as an overall discoloration, is usually caused by one of the following: (@ An exhausted fixing bath, or too little acid in the bath. Use a fresh solution of ‘Kodafix’ (1+-7) or a solution containing 25 per cent hypo crystals with 5 per cent ‘Kodak’ Liquid Hardener added, i) The glazing drum is too hot (see Section Ia, Sub-section 13 Adjusting the drum temperature). (ii) Prints are insufficiently washed. STICKING Prints sticking to the drum is usually caused. by one of the following : (i) An exhausted fixing bath or too little hardener in the fixing bath. Use a fresh bath of ‘Kodafix’ Solution (1-+7) or a solution containing 25 st cent hypo crystals with 5 per cent ‘Kodak? Liquid Hardener added. in the tropics use ‘Kodak’ Formulae F.5 and SB.4. Gii) A dirty glazing surface. Thoroughly clean and polish the drum surface Gee Sub-section 5) and, if necessary, fit a new conveyor cloth, Gii) ‘The glazing drum is too hot (see Section IIIa, Sub-section 13). div) Prints have become excessively soft by being soaked for too long in the wash tank, The minimum recommended washing time for the paper should whenever possible, be adhered to~in any case it should not exceed one hour, The washing time can be reduced by using a bath containing ‘Kodak" Hypo Clearing Agent. Excessive softening of the prints can also be caused by the wash water being either too warm or too soft. 10 Ss 8 8 U = & fi BI Di i i i1 1 1 i 1 d J 1 J J d J J d d 4 4 SECTION II|_ MAINTENANCE: Mechanical After a time, owing to fair wear and tear, certain parts of the machine may need to be cleaned, adjusted or replaced. The maintenance operations described in this section enable anyone, with a few tools and reasonable mechanical aptitude, to undertake this work. Before carrying out any maintenance, the machine should be dis- connected from the electricity supply or both of the electricity supply main. fuses should be withdrawn. | General care When the glazer is not in use, move the squeegee handle into the idle position and keep the dust cover in position over the machine, Acregular intervals, oil all bearings and grease the driving chain. Once a month should be sufficient for normal use. Wipe off all surplus oil and. grease to prevent marking the cloth. The gear box of the motor is packed with special grease and will run for a long period without attention. It should be examined each year and the grease changed if necessary (see Section [La Sub-section 7). 2 Changing the conveyor cloth Because of shrinkage difficulties, washing dirty conveyor cloths and refitting them to the machine is net recommended. Operation 2a: REMOVING THE CLOTH Using a spanner, slacken off both mangle-roller adjusters fully (the larger of the two hexagons), then slacken the two mangle roller set-screws either side of the top cross-bar. Swing the mangle roller assembly forwards and upwards to the horizontal position and temporarily tighten the set- screws again (see Figures 5 and 6). Using an Allen key, slacken the grub-screw which secures the collar on one spindle of the weighted roller, slide the roller to one side and lift it out of the guides. Slacken the squeegee spindle retaining screw, withdraw the spindle and remove the roller. Remove the thermostat control lamp, then tape the thermostat pick- up shoe to the lampholder to prevent it from swinging and damaging the drum surface (Figure 8). Remove the tracking rollers in the order 1, 2, 3, marking them with pencil as they ate taken out, so that it will be known in which position to replace each one (see Figures 4 and 5). Loosen the spindle retaining screw of the driving roller (large screw) and pull out the spindle complete with handle (see Figure 6). Working from the back of the machine, pull the roller backwards until the chain is slack then remove it from the sprockets. Mancuvre the "roller from between the cloth, then remove the cloth from the machine taking care not to damage the thermostat pick-up arm. Withdraw the roller and remove the cloth from the machine. It is convenient at this stage to examine the chain, free-wheel, roller spindles and other moving parts. Clean, oil and grease as necessary. Care should be taken, however, to wipe away any excess oil or grease to prevent marking the new cloth. Operation 2b: FITTING THE NEW CLOTH ‘To prevent the new conveyor cloth from becoming marked, wipe down with a clean damp cloth all the tie-rods, ledges and other parts of the machine which have become dusty or dirty. Lay a sheet of clean paper over the tie-rods. Re-fit the chain to the motor sprocket and hang the free loop over the upper tie-rod. Engage the driving roller free-wheel in the free loop of the chain and let it hang from the tie-rod. Place the tip of the driving roller spindle in the end of its bearing. ‘Wash the hands thoroughly. Place the new cloth, still in its wrapping, into the tray. Unwrap the cloth and pass the leading loop upwards round the drum. Work the loap of the cloth over the thermostat pick-up shoe assembly and lamp-holder; then carry on round the drum, keeping inside the tie-rods, until the trailing loop reaches the driving roller position. From the rear of the machine, pass the driving roller through between the two layers of cloth; put the chain on the sprocket then keeping tension on the chain, manceuvre the roller forward into position between the bearings. Push the driving roller spindle through the roller. When the spindle is right home, make sure that the flat on the spindle is lined up with the roller securing screw, then tighten the screw, Replace the tracking rollers in the order 3, 2, 1. When replacing roller number 1, hold it by both ends and pull the cloth forward with a firm even pressure until the ends of the roller spindle locate into the slots. Place the squeegee roller in position between the adjusters, then pass the spindle through the roller. Equalize the amount protruding from each side of the frame, then tighten the squeegee roller retaining screw. Remove the tape binding the thermostat pick-up shoe to the lamp- holder then replace the lamp, Replace the weighted roller, inserting the spindles in the guides, and reposition the collar to permit approximately -inch end-play, then tighten the grub-screw. Ensure that the cloth fits squarely and that the beaded edges overhang the ends of all rollers and the drum, Slacken the set-screws which lock the mangle-roller assembly then swing the assembly down fully and retighten the set-screws. Screw down 12 |] & & I nt It ih tL tt ui pi il ioe al J J 1 J J J SPINDLE RETAINING SCREW. FIGURE 6 the mangle-roller adjusters equally until the roller bears on the conveyor cloth. Do not exert more pressure than is necessary to obtain a satisfactory drive (see Sub-section 3). Test the running and tracking of the cloth by turning the drum by hand by means of the driving roller handle and, if necessary, easing the cloth one way or the other until smooth running is obtained. Reconnect the machine to the electricity supply, switch on and run the drum at its fastest speed. Watch the cloth for about 10 minutes to ensure even tracking. If, despite all precautions, the cloth has become marked with grease or oil, support the cloth from underneath using a pad of clean blotting paper, then dab the soiled part with a clean cloth moistened with a little carbon tetrachloride. 3 Adjusting the mangle roller ‘The action of the mangle roller is to keep the conveyor cloth in close contact with the driving roller, thus providing a positive drive. The pressure exerted by the mangle roller should be not more than the minimum necessary for satisfactory operation, but if necessary the pressure may be altered by means of the two adjusters on the top of the roller. If the conveyor cloth slips on the driving roller, the mangle roller pressure should be increased until slipping ceases. Care must be taken to ensure that equal pressure is exerted on both sides, otherwise an uneven drive will result. Excessive pressure should be avoided. If increased pressure fails to produce a satisfactory drive, itis probably because the driving roller has become hard and smooth and needs replacing. 134 Adjusting the squeegee roller When the squeegee pressure is applied, the squeegee roller should keep the conveyor cloth in close contact with the drum surface. To test the pressure, place a sheet of single-weight photographic paper on the cloth between the drum and the squeegee roller. Pull the squeegee handle down into the full-pressure position, then pull the paper forward with a firm even tension; if the paper can be easily withdrawn, pressure should be increased until the paper is just held firmly. Care must be taken not to jerk the paper because, should it move while the correct Pressure is on, the drum surface may be marked. To adjust the pressure, turn the adjusting nuts on either side of the machine. Care must be taken to ensure that equal pressure is exerted on both sides. Excessive pressure should be avoided. SECTION Illa MAINTENANCE: Electrical Before carrying out any maintenance, the machine should be dis- connected from the electricity supply. Maintenance involving electrical components should be undertaken by an electrician. In the following text the wires are referred to by colours, In the case of the suppressor unit and the mains connections these are the actual colours of the wire coverings. In the case of all other wiring these colours are designated by coloured sleeves on the ends of the wires and not by the wire coverings themselves. 5 Changing the drum-heater bar After long use it may be found necessary to replace the heater bar. To remove and refit the heater bar, proceed as follows Operation Sa; REMOVING THE HEATER BAR Remove the drum-inspection plates by unscrewing the retaining thumb-nuts, then rotate the drum so that the inspection openings are ‘opposite the upper gap in the frame of the machine. Pass an inspection lamp into the drum interior through one of the inspection openings, then withdraw the three single electrical plugs from the heater bar connector block. Note the positions of each to facilttate correct replacement later. With a small spanner remove the retaining nuts at each end of the heater bar. Ease out the two spring retaining arms and remove the heater bar. Operation 5b: FITTING A NEW HEATER BAR Tf the new heater bar is received without tag leads, remove the three leads from the old bar and attach them to the new one. It is recommended that this be done one lead at a time, so that no mistake can be made in the positioning of the leads. % D a) D T D tt D nl tt Mi ti i A) I i i| J Jd I J d 4d J Fit the heater bar between the two retaining arms; then screw on tightly the two heater bar retaining nuts. Make sure that no part of the bar touches the drum shell Plug in the three heater leads, ensuring that they are replaced in their correct positions. The single lead from the common end must be inserted in the centre socket of the connector block and the remaining two leads in the end sockets. Remove the inspection lamp from the drum then connect the machine to the electricity supply. Observe the heater bar through the inspection opening, When the machine is switched on, both heaters should operate and both indicator lights should glow, Allow the drum to heat up until the red light goes out, The main heater (heavier winding) then should be automatically switched off. If the auxiliary heater is switched off instead, disconnect the glazing machine from the electricity supply, allow the drum to cool, then transpose the two leads in the end sockets of the connector block. Replace the inspection covers and secure with the thumb-nuts. Changing the drum To obtain good glazing results, a perfect drum surface is essential. If the polished shell becomes abraded or damaged a new drum can be easily fitted. Operation 6a: REMOVING THE DRUM Do not remove the flannelette cover from the new drum, Slacken the two print tray retaining nuts by turning the bolts at each side of the tray, then lift the tray upwards and forwards away from the machine. With the pressure released, slacken the squeegee spindle retaining screw, withdraw the spindle and remove the roller. See Figure 7. Remove two control panel cover retaining screws and take off the cover. Slacken the screws securing the drum heater leads to the connector block, and withdraw the leads (red, white and blue). Unscrew the four screws which secure the drum-bearing covers and remove the covers. Beneath the left-hand cover is another connector block (see Figure 8). Slacken the screws which secure the drum heater leads to this connector block and withdraw the leads (red, white and blue). Remove the thermostat control lamp, then tape the thermostat pick- up shoe to the Iampholder. Unscrew the screws which secure the drum-bearing clamps and remove the clamps. Gently ease the drum spindle forwards until it clears the guides. Grasp the drum at both ends, gently pull it forward on to the con- veyor cloth and remove it from the machine. 15Operation 6b: REMOVING THE HEATER BAR Follow the instructions in Operation 5a. Operation 6c: FITTING THE HEATER BAR TO ANEW DRUM Follow the instructions in Operation 5b. Operation 6d: FITTING A NEW DRUM Do-not remove the flannelette cover which is wrapped round the drum surface, Place the drum on the conveyor cloth so that the locating pin in the drum-bearing spindle is to the left, then lift the drum and slide the spindle into its guides in the framework making sure that the pin locates in the hole at the back of the left-hand guide. Replace the drum-bearing clamps and tighten the screws. Note that the one with the horizontal screw fits at the right, and that the screw projects through the drum-bearing spindle, Attach the drum heater leads to the terminal blocks om the switch- plate and left-hand frame as before, making certain that the colour coding is followed correctly (see wiring diagram). Replace the control panel cover and drum-bearing covers and secure them with the appropriate retaining screws. Remove the tape binding the thermostat pick-up shoe to the lamp- holder, make sure that the shoe rides flat and free on the cloth, then replace the control lamp. Replace the squeegee roller. Pass the spindle through the bearings and equalize the amount protruding from each side of the framework. Tighten up the squeegee spindle retaining screw. Replace the print tray and secure with the two retaining nuts and bolts. Connect the machine to the electricity supply. Remove the flannelette covering from the drum and switch on the machine. Ensure that the drum rotates correctly and that both elements heat up (see Sub-section 5b). Replace the inspection panels and secure with the retaining screws. Clean the drum surface in the normal way before glazing (see page 7). Clean the conveyor cloth, if necessary, by supporting the cloth from underneath with an absorbent pad and applying a little carbon tetra- chloride to the soiled part with a clean cloth, Return the case to Kodak Limited, Equipment Service Department: a credit will then be made to your account. 16 v q v 3 v 0 a Dt 4 J D a 3 4 4 J 4a | 1 1 1 1 a 1 1 J ] J ] J J J J 7 Overhauling the motor Because of the presence in the circuit of a regulating resistance, the shaft of the driving motor revolves relatively slowly, even at its maximum setting : wear is thus reduced to the minimum. The motor should only need servicing about once each year, depending on the amount of use. The carbon brushes, however, should be checked after each six months’ use. Operation 7a: REMOVING THE MOTOR Unscrew the two control panel cover screws and lift off the panel. Disconnect the motor from the terminal block, remove the two screws and nuts securing the motor casing to the framework, take the chain off the motor sprocket, then remove the motor and suppressor unit complete. Operation 7b; CHECKING THE MOTOR Access to the gear-housing is obtained by removing the hexagon-head bolts and/or cheese-head screws which secure the gear-housing to the motor body. If necessary the old grease should be removed and the gear- housing well washed out with paraffin or white spirit, dried and repacked with ‘Shell’ Alvania Grease No. 2. Other lubricants are not recommended. Do not over-pack the gear-housing with grease — it is unnecessary and will only impose an additional load on the motor. The motor-shaft bearings should be examined and, if necessary, replenished with grease of the same grade as that recommended for the gears. The carbon brushes should be examined and if they are worn to less than { inch in length, a new pair should be fitted. Spare carbon brushes can be obtained from Kodak Limited — see Section IV — Service Parts. Operation 7c: REFITTING OR REPLACING THE MOTOR Fit the chain round the motor sprocket, held the motor in its ap- proximate position then screw on slackly the motor retaining nuts. Arrange the motor so that the sprocket is in line with the driving roller free-wheel and so that there is only a very slight amount of slack in the chain. Tighten the retaining nuts to secure. ‘Connect the motor leads into the terminal block on the control panel, connect the machine to the electricity supply and switch on. Check the tracking of the chain and, if not correct, disconnect the machine from the electricity supply and re-adjust the position of the motor or motor-sprocket as necessary. Run the machine at both slow and fast speeds, to ensure correct functioning. If necessary the speeds may be adjusted, as explained in Sub-section 9, Replace the control panel cover. 178 Replacing the suppressor unit The suppressor unit connected to the motor of the ‘Kodak’ Glazing Machine consists of an integral network of chokes and capacitors which, working together, adequately suppress interference to wireless and television reception in the vicinity. If, however, such interference is experienced, one of the coloured leads may have become disconnected. Tfall connections are firm, one of the small capacitors may have developed a fault and a new suppressor unit should be fitted. Remove the motor from the machine as detailed in Operation 7a. Remove the end cap of the motor then proceed as follows: ‘KLAXON’ MOTORS Snip the five wires close to the suppressor unit leaving the wires still connected to the motor. Slacken the clamping screw, then slide the unit from its bracket. Slide the new unit into the bracket and tighten the clamping screw. Note the colour coding of the wire then solder each one of the old wires to the new wire of the same colour. Protect each joint in- dividually with insulation tape. GREEN wire to the FRAME of the machine BLACK wire to the BLACK lead of the motor terminal block RED wire to the FIELD connection inside the motor ORANGE wire to the BOTTOM BRUSH of the motor BLUE wire to the TOP BRUSH of the motor. Sce wiring diagram inside the rear cover of this booklet. “FRACMO’ MOTORS Remove the four wires ftom the terminals beneath the end cap of the motor, and the single wire leading to the frame of the motor. Remove the old suppressor unit as above and fit the new unit into the bracket, Imagining the terminals beneath the end cap to be numbered clock- wise, connect the RED wire to number 2 terminal BLACK wire to number 3 terminal ORANGE wire to number 4 terminal BLUE wire to number 5 terminal GREEN wire to the FRAME of the machine See wiring diagram inside the rear cover of this booklet. All soldered joints and terminal connections must be clean and firm; dry soldered joints must be avoided. 9 Adjusting the speeds of the drum When the speed regulator is set at the top of its slot (FasT), a print should travel Sees the machine in approximately 5 minutes and when set at the bottom of its slot (sLow), the print should cover the distance in approximately 15 minutes. 18 1 I 1 3 a J J J 3 J 4 q 3 4 4 4 41 1 1 1 1 1 ] 1 ] ] ] J J J J J i If it is desired to adjust either speed, the sliding contacts on the speed regulator can be easily reset. Proceed as follows : With a screwdriver, remove the screws which hold the control panel cover in position and remove the cover. To increase the speed at maximum (Fast) setting, slacken the locking screw and move the middle slider (Contact 2) dowmnwards (Figure 7). To decrease the speed move it upwards. Tighten the locking screw to secure. To increase the speed at minimum (stow) setting, slacken the locking screw and move the right-hand slider (Contact 1) dotontards. To decrease the speed, move it upwards. Tighten the locking screw to secure. When the necessary adjustment has been made, replace the control panel cover. 10 Changing the speed regulator (rheostat) The speed regulator is, in fact, a rhcostat. With constant use the carbon brushes in the slider may eventually wear through one of the fine wire resistance coils. If this happens, it will be necessary to change the rheostat unit complete. Operation 10a: REMOVING THE RHEOSTAT ‘Take out the two retaining screws of the control panel cover, and remove it. Disconnect the leads at connections 1, 2, 3. and 4, then remove the two theostat retaining screws (Figure 7). Remove the rheostat. Operation 0b: FITTING A NEW RHEOSTAT Replacement rheostats are fully tested before they leave the Kodak factory and no further test is necessary. Place the rheostat in position and secure with the two retaining screws, then replace the leads at connections 1, 2, 3 and 4. Ascertain the correct positions of the various leads from Figure 7 and from the wiring diagram. Replace the control panel cover, and check to see that neither the slider nor any of the connections touch the cover at any point. Adjust the position of the rheostat if necessary. Connect the machine to the electricity supply and run it at both slow and fast speeds, to check that the motor functions correctly. The speeds may be altered, if necessary, as explained in the preceding Sub-section. II Changing the rotary switch Should the rotary switch be suspected of faulty operation, it can be easily replaced as follows: First remove the control panel cover. Disconnect the seven wires from the four terminals of the switch, then remove the two screws and nuts which secure the switch to the panel. 19TT a ee ee ee ee ee ee eee FIGURE 7FIGURE & Msi ileFit the new switch to the panel using the two screws and nuts so that the terminals marked 1 and B are at the top. Reconnect the wires to the four terminals as below: BLACK wire from motor terminal block To terminal 1 {BLACK wire from rheostat BLACK wire from heater terminal block To terminal 2. RED wire — Mains Line connection To terminal A BLACK wire - Mains Neutral connection (RED wire from heater terminal block To terminal B/E? ™Y [RED wire from fuse Replace the control panel cover and secure with the two screws. ‘Check the switch at each position to make sure that the pointer clears the cover. Reconnect the machine to the electricity supply, switch on and test. 12 Fitting a new fuse The fuse for the motor circuit is located beneath the control panel cover (see Figure 7). Before removing the cover to inspect the fuse disconnect the equipment from the electricity supply. To renew the fuse wire, use 2 amp (43 $WG) tinned copper fuse wire. ‘When renewing the fuse, use only fuse wire of correct specification. Do not attempt to increase the current carrying capacity of the fuse by using wire of a higher rating than specified. 13 Adjusting the drum temperature Before the machine leaves the factory, the thermostat is set to maintain the drum at the correct glazing temperature. Under normal conditions it should be unnecessary to alter this setting. If the drum temperature rises unduly, first check to ensure that the thermostat pick-up tab is quite free on the spindle and that it trails correctly in contact with the back of the cloth (see Sub-section 6d). If, however, it is found necessary to adjust the temperature of the drum, the thermostat can be easily re-set as follows : First disconnect the machine from the electricity supply, then unscrew and remove the two screws which secure the thermostat cover-plate which is situated on the left-hand side of the machine. Lift off the cover (see Figure 8). The thermostat control has a dial which is marked into ten main numbered divisions. Each numbered division represents a change in temperature of approximately 54°C (10°F). To decrease the drum temperature, turn the control knob counter- clockwise towards the next ower figure. To increase the drum temperature, turn the control knob clockwise towards the next higher figure. Replace the cover-plate and secure with the two screws. Reconnect the machine to the electricity supply, switch on and test. 22 a 1 3 J J J J 1 1 J i i i 3 4 4 4CAUTION If the thermostat is set too high the conveyor cloth may be scorched. Only increase the thermostat setting if found abso- lutely necessary, and then only by small amounts. In no circumstances should any adjustments be made to any part of the thermostat other than the control knob. 14 Replacing the indicator lamps If the machine operates satisfactorily but cither of the indicator lamps fails to light, the filament of the lamp may have broken. These lamps are of standard pattern and can be easily replaced. Remove the switch-plate cover, remove the burnt out lamp and replace it with a new lamp of similar specification. Replace the switch-plate cover, switch on and test. INDICATOR LAMP SPECIFICATION Line voltage, 15-watt, Bayonet cap, Pigmy Sign Lamp - Clear. SECTION IV SERVICE PARTS Code No. CONVEYOR CLOTH . . * . . 1571 DRIVING ROLLER COMPLETE eigen 1566 DRUM COMPLETE .. sa aev tate pRaeelooze HEATER BAR (state voltage and whether required with or without tag-leads) 3 ~ 1572 MQOR (state voltage)... ss 1526 SPEED REGULATOR (RHEOSTAT) complete. . 1544 SUPPRESSOR UNIT. . . . «. « « 1523 When ordering service parts please quote the number of the machine, the code number of parts required, and the voltage of the electricity supply. 23 J 1 1 J J d 1 ] J ] J J J J J 4 4MAINS INDICATOR AHP THERMOSTAT ‘THERMOSTAT INDICATOR LAMP THERMOSTAT CONTROL AMF HEATER UKiT ROTARY saree | WIRING DIAGRAM FOR or am GLAZING MACHINE MAINS CABLE MODEL 157. REY To COLOURS SUPPRESSOR Produet names quoted thus - ‘Kodak’ — are trade marks Printed in England 9/20 /13RL4/463(1173/bx) meeer r c r ri rs e t c cE t t if t L L L Are you looking after your glazer? Everybody likes glossy prints to have a good smooth glaze—but to maintain consistently good glazing does mean regular cleaning and maintenance, and attention to detail. Although some of the following poi could seem pretty obvious, they may help a remind those of you who sometimes forget them. The wash water must be clean, preferably filtered, Ensure that prints are thoroughly washed. Insufficient washing causes the prints to stick to the blanket and residual fixer soaks into the blanket and will stain subsequent batches of prints. The speed of the glazer should be adjusted so that prints “emerge” from under the blanket completely free of the drum. If they are still sticking to the drum, there is a danger of “oyster shell marks appearing when they start to “pop-off” the drum. After removing your prints from the wash, don't leave them lying around for too long before glazing, otherwise they will start to dry out and make glazing more difficult. page eight Very frequent cleaning with Silvo R174 is essential. If stubborn stains cannot be shifted, clean with Aloxite but remember that this should be immediately followed by normal cleaning with Silvo. Between each batch of prints the drum should be wiped with a wet cottonwool pad and buffed dry with a soft cloth, A wetting agent such as Kodak “Photo- Flo” Solution can usefully be added to the final rinse to facilitate glazing. This addition is particularly applicable to double-weight prints. At the end of the day, before you turn out the lights, make sure that the squeegee lever is raised to slacken the blanket, otherwise stretching will occur. Maintenance (a stitch in time . . . and all that) With any major job it's best to call on a qualified =mechanic—but regular mai tenance helps to avoid major disasters. The blanket roller bearings and shafts should be kept lightly greased; the bearings and drive rollers, and chains should also be kept lightly greased. If the drive motor shows signs of losing grease from the gear box, remove the box, clean out the old grease, and fill with new high melting-point grease. The carbon brushes on the drive motor should be checked every six months. They should be free in their slots and be at least half their original length. When your glazer needs to be rechromed here are some names and addresses which you might find useful: British Trade Engineers Lid., North Wharf Road, Paddington, London W2 Telephone: 01-965 3656 Islington Metal and Plating Works Ltd., Torrens Works, Torrens Street, London ECL Telephone: 01-837 9621 Limit Plating and Repolishing Works Ltd. 214 Hornsey Road, London N7 Telephone: 01-607 19172 8 == = PPPs sw BE ss on the “Ko @ machines are extremely reliable and maintain a high rate of output, The following notes are offered as an aid to maximum efficiency. It is essential that great care is taken of the highly- polished drum surface of each machine and only soft, an cloths should be used in cleaning, (Selvyt’ cloth dusters are recommended). Operators should not wear rings or bracelets whilst glazing or cleaning as these may scratch the drum surface. During use, the dru should be polished frequently and wiped occasionally with a 1 per cent solution of acetic acid, and thei sed with clean water, ‘The drum surface should he washed daily with good ality soap and afterwards polished with a dry cloth. Once ‘a week, the drum should be polished with ‘Silvo’. This should be applied with cotton wool, polished away with a dry cloth and the surf washed with soap, as suggested above. The drum surface should not be cleaned or washed whilst it is still hot. care of -Kodalk’ Glazing Machines gelatine this is chlorite (10 or four applications may be necessary. It is emphasised that this treatment does not necessa ily dissolve the ut softens it so that it can easily be The drum surface should therefore be rubbed firmly, in one direction only, to push off the gelati After treatment, the drum should be washed with clean, hot water to remove all traces of sodium hypo- ‘hlorite, and the drum surface polished with a clean, dry cloth. With regard to the washing of the conveyor cloth, the manual distributed with each machine, A final hint. Giw ‘Photo-Flo’ Solution. rints a last rinse in dilute Kodakf r t t t r t t t i £ t L L L L L B.T.E. GLAZING MACHINES 100% BRITISH Renowned these many years for Reliability, Durability and Quality Model 15TC. 15” Stainless Steel drum Model 15/24TC. 24” Stainless Steel drum Model 15/24TC, 24” Chromium Plated drum .. . £736.25 Model 24 Rapid. 24” Stainless Steel drum Model 24 Rapid. 24” Chromium Plated drum .. All Prices Plus VAT Net Professional SEND FOR FULL DETAILS . £404.75 £485.25 £565.50 £808.00 K.P. PROFESSIONAL SALES Camera House, Quayside Bridge St, Cambridge CB5 8AB Telephone: 0223-64915/6INSTRUCTION BOOK. IN THIS ENVELOPE :