Nacreous, or pearlescent, pigments are widely used in the cosmetic industry to add luster, sparkle,

impart color or color-travel effects, and provide coverage. Pearls are used in many cosmetics
including nail polish, eye shadow, lipstick, and blush. The adjective nacreous is derived from
nacre, which is pronounced NAY-ker. It refers to the material that makes up pearls and the
iridescent mother-of-pearl produced in mollusk shells.

Several types of cosmetic pearls are available based on different substrates like mica, guanine,
bismuth oxychloride, calcium sodium borosilicate, and fluorophlogophite. Each substrate has its
own advantages and disadvantages.

Mica
More formally, cosmetic micas are postassium aluminum silicate dihyrdrate. Silicates, much like
silica, are based on interconnected SiO4 tetrahedra. (Yes! I finally got to use the word tetrahedra
in a blog post!) However, in silicates the ratio of Si to O is greater forming silicone-oxygen
anions. To form neutral solid silicates, cations like potassium are needed to balance the negative
charge. Theres a great deal of hype around so-called natural mineral make-up cosmetics.

Although mineral by definition, the distinction of natural is pretty much out of the question in my
opinion. The amount of processing and refining needed to make theses ingredients cosmetically
acceptable, furthermore the processes and reactions used to deposit color on mica for matching
various skin tones or to create other colorful effects make it pretty silly to imply they are anything
close to their natural state. Naturally derived, sure, but then so is petrolatum I digress. Micas
are subject to size restrictions; particles are not to exceed 150 ?m. Other substrates are not
specifically regulated for particle size.

Guanine
Guanine, a common biological molecule, is derived from fish scales and provides a soft pearly
shimmer. It is the photonic crystalline structure of guanine that scatters and reflects light to
produce the pearl effect. Cosmetic grades are, of course, purified and often dissolved in a suitable
solvent for ease of handling. Although this might qualify as a true natural pearl, cost is often
prohibitive.

Bismuth Oxychloride
Though more frequently used as a filler in cosmetic formulations, bismuth oxychloride provides a
silvery, white tone. The various particle sizes available allow for different levels of transparency,
however larger crystal forms are supplied as dispersion because these larger crystals can be
broken in their dry form.
Calcium-Aluminum Borosilicate
Because this substrate is highly transparent, brilliant sparkle effects can be achieved. This also
suits clear formulations where effects are desired with less opacity. But the cost is typically more
than traditional micas.

Fluorophlogophite
Referred to as synthetic micas, fluorophlogophites are one of the newest innovations in pigments
having been on the market a relatively short period of time as far as cosmetic ingredients go.
Unlike mica which carries natural impurities along with it, the synthetic version is clean and
transparent. This allows for more brilliant sparkles effects.