Airfix 1-24 Hawker Typhoon MK - LB

HOW TO
BUILD... AIRFIX 1:24
HAWKER
TYPHOON Mk.Ib Brett Green
FEATURING THE WORK OF

Brett Green, Marcus Nicholls
and Chris Wauchop
INCLUDES
COMPREHENSIVE BUILDS PLUS:
Typhoon Walk Around
Wartime Reference Photos
Step by Step tips and techniques
for building the ultimate Typhoon
Hawker Typhoon in 1:72, 1:48 & 1:32
Aftermarket decal and accessory summary
From the publishers of Tamiya Model Magazine International,

Model Military International, Model Airplane International
and Military Illustrated Modeller
p 01 Cover TyphoonBG.indd 1 02/07/2014 09:06

FOREWORD AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
How to build... AIRFIX 1:24 HAWKER TYPHOON Mk.Ib
I
n my very early teens, I asked for the Airfix 1:24 scale
Spitfire Mk.I for Christmas.
This was without a question the wonder kit of its
day. It was released in 1970, followed by a 1:24 scale
Messerschmitt Bf 109 E, a Ju 87 B Stuka and a Hawker
Hurricane. A 1:24 scale Hawker Harrier joined this large- n Chris Wauchop
scale lineup too.
These kits boasted accurate outlines and admirably Chris Wauchop was born in Deniliquin in regional Australia in
1954. Chriss career began in the photo studio of a major Sydney
restrained recessed surface detail. Instructions were
advertising agency. From here, Chris moved on to professional
comprehensive and the boxes were adorned with model making at Lego. After nearly five years, he decided to go
evocative artwork by the legendary Roy Cross. And of solo, opening a hobby shop called Absolute Hobbies in suburban
course, they were big! Sydney. This became a Mecca for local modellers. The end of
Yet in other ways, these kits were a product of their age. the property lease after seven years prompted another career
They were burdened with workable features, including change, this time painting props and vehicles for the science fiction
retractable undercarriage and removable cowlings, which movie, Red Planet. Chris has built many models for commercial
impinged somewhat on detail accuracy and scale. Detail advertising, displays at trade shows, articles for magazines
and websites including Tamiya Model Magazine, Model Military
was pretty basic too, especially in the Spitfires engine
International, Military Illustrated Modeller, HyperScale and Missing-
bay and wheel wells. Lynx, and has been a contributor to many modelling books. Chris
Even so, these kits loom large in the memories of those now lives in semi-retirement on Sydneys northern beaches with
who built them in the 1970s or any of the subsequent his wife Deirdhre.
decades in which they have been regularly re-released.
During 2009, Airfix breathed new life into their 1:24
scale series with a very nice Mosquito long rumoured
and well received. This was a major improvement over
the original releases, but still looked like a scaled-up n Marcus Nicholls
model in some areas.
Marcus was born in Hertfordshire, England in 1966 and still lives
The brand new 1:24 scale Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib stands in this area with his wife Emma and two sons, Joseph and William.
apart from all those that have gone before it. This model Marcus has been making models since about the age of eight, and
radiates quality. Surface texture is positively daring with has worked on Tamiya Model Magazine since 1991. He has been
its rippled oilcan effect and the combination of raised its Editor for about the last fourteen years, and is also Editor of the
and recessed rivets. Detail is dense, just as it was on the Military Edition of Military Illustrated Modeller magazine. Marcus is
original aircraft. In fact, this kit conveys the rugged core also Group Editor of ADH Publishings scale modelling magazines
which include Model Airplane International and Model Military
of this aircraft so completely that there is very little to add.
International.
If the modeller wishes to display the engine or the wing He is a qualified photographer and places special emphasis on
cannon bays, Airfix offers a number of options that do not photographic quality in Tamiya Model Magazine. Marcus is an
compromise scale or detail. Even more remarkable is that all enthusiastic modeller of all subjects and feels equally at home
of this detail is delivered in injection-moulded plastic alone. building armour, science-fiction, cars and bikes as well as aircraft.
Airfix has undoubtedly delivered a true scale classic for
our time.
The main purpose of this book is to deliver a step-by-
step illustrated guide to building the big Airfix Typhoon,
clarifying construction and suggesting sequences for n Brett Green
sub-assemblies and painting.
Any modelling book is an ensemble effort and this Brett Green was born in Sydney, Australia in 1960. Brett displayed
a passion for aviation and aircraft modelling from an early age.
title is no exception. I would like to extend my sincere
This developed into a particular interest in camouflage and
appreciation to Marcus Nicholls and Chris Wauchop, markings. Brett established the popular scale modelling website
whose wonderful work appears on these pages. Thanks HyperScale (www.hyperscale.com) in 1998. He is also Editor of
to both of you for your efforts. the ADH Publishing magazines Model Military International and the
Thanks also to Alex Hall, who has once again Aircraft Edition of Military Illustrated Modeller; the armour modelling
transformed raw text and images into the attractive website Missing-Lynx (www.missing-lynx.com), and author of
illustrated journey you see before you. more than 15 books. Brett concluded his 25-year career in the
Australian telecommunications industry in 2003, when he decided
We are very grateful to Airfix for providing the kits built
to pursue his interests in online publishing and writing as a full-time
in this book. occupation. He still lives in Sydney today with his wife and two
I would also like to thank David Hannant from children, Charlotte and Sebastian.
Hannants, airscale, R.B Productions and Testor for the
aftermarket parts used on our big Typhoons.
The photos of the Typhoon at Hendon in the Close-Up
section were kindly provided by Bryan Ribbans; while Dan
Jackett sourced the wartime reference photos.
Thanks to all!
Brett Green, June 2014
2 How to Build... - Airfix 1:24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib
p 02-03 Contents TyphoonBG.indd 2 02/07/2014 09:07

CONTENTS
Page 2 Foreword
Page 4 Background
Page 6 Chapter 1
Hawker Typhoon Close Up
Page 12 Chapter 2
Typhoon in Other Scales
Page 18 Chapter 3
Typhoon In The Box
Page 26 Chapter 4
Typhoon Step by Step
Page 50 Chapter 5
Copyright 2014 ADH Publishing Ltd. Cockpit and Engine Detail by Marcus Nicholls
All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or
whole of any text or photographs without
written permission from the publisher is strictly
prohibited. While due care has been taken to Page 62 Chapter 6
ensure the contents of this book are accurate, Painting and Finishing by Chris Wauchop
the publisher cannot accept liability for errors.
First Published in the United Kingdom by:

ADH Publishing Ltd., Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Page 74 Appendix 1
Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX After-Market Accessories and Decals
Telephone: 44 (0) 1525 222573
Fax: 44 (0) 1525 222574
Email: enquiries@adhpublishing.com
Website: www.adhpublishing.com Page 74 Appendix 2
Selected Hawker Typhoon References
Designed by Alex Hall
How to Build... Tamiyas 1:32 F4U-1 Corsair 3
p 02-03 Contents TyphoonBG.indd 3 02/07/2014 09:07

BACKGROUND
H
awker Aircraft was formed
in 1920 and delivered a
number of classic fighter
and bomber designs for
the RAF in the inter-war period.
These included the Nimrod, the
Fury, Audax and Demon all
biplanes with fixed-pitch wooden
propellers and non-retractable
undercarriage.
In 1935, Hawker Aircraft designed
the first low-wing monoplane fighter
to see service with the RAF the
Hawker Hurricane. Although the
Hurricane was undoubtedly a great
leap forward compared to Hawkers
previous biplane fighters, it retained
many of that earlier generations
characteristics including box girder
MR HAWKERS
Serial No. R8384,
fuselage structure and fabric- HF-L, a car door
covered formers and stringers. The Typhoon Mk.IB.
earliest Hurricanes were even still
fitted with two-bladed fixed pitch
propellers and fabric covered wings.
Hawker were considering a
more modern replacement for the
GROUND POUNDER
Hurricane as early as 1937. Planned
as a medium-altitude interceptor,
the Hawker Typhoon was powered
by the 24 cylinder H-block Napier-
Sabre engine and featured a thick
inverted gull wing. The Typhoon was
expected to achieve a top speed of
460 mph, but the drag induced by
its thick wing limited this to just over
400 mph. Climb rate and general
performance above 20,000 feet
failed to meet expectations too.
As if these shortcomings were
not bad enough, the big Napier-
Sabre engine was prone to catch
fire as it started; and a number
Hawker Typhoon EK288 photographed in April 1943. The black and white underwing stripes were added
of early Typhoons suffered from Rearming the as an identification feature, as a number of Typhoons had been shot down by friendly Flak and fighters,
catastrophic airframe failure when Hispano cannon of having been mistaken for Focke-Wulf Fw 190s.
the entire tail unit separated from a car door Typhoon.
Note the colours
the fuselage in flight. The former of the shells, and
problem was addressed by having the half-shrouded
Hispano cannon
ground crew with a fire extinguisher barrels.
A nice in-flight shot of six Typhoons. The narrow chordwise stripes on the upper wings were another
identification measure.
4 Background
p 04-05 Background TyphoonBG.indd 4 02/07/2014 09:09

standing by when the Typhoon Excellent detail
was running up; and the tail was view of the car
door canopy of
reinforced with a series of fish-scale Typhoon Mk.IB
plates on the rear fuselage. EK288 Fiji VI.

These problems were not A factory fresh
ironed out until 1942, at which Hawker Typhoon
time the Typhoon was switched Mk.IB bubbletop.
The misaligned
from interceptor to ground attack camouflage on the
duties. It was in this role that the nose panels is of
interest.
Typhoon excelled.
The good low altitude
performance and heavy load
capacity of the Typhoon meant that
it could carry two 1,000 lb bombs
to targets on the continent. From
September 1943, the Typhoon
would be equipped with eight 60 lb
RP-3 rockets, which were used to
devastating effect against ground
targets until the end of the war.
The Hawker Typhoon was
constantly improved over its
Pilots clowning
period of wartime service. The around with a
initial car door canopy offered 500 lb bomb. The
only limited rearward vision so this Typhoon could
carry one of these
was eventually replaced with a under each wing.
clear-vision sliding bubble canopy.
The original three-bladed propeller
was upgraded to a four-bladed
unit to make the most of the By pilot accounts, the Typhoon
powerful Napier-Sabre engine. Later
Typhoons were also retrofitted with
was a solid gun platform, fast at
the larger horizontal tailplanes of low altitudes and impressively
the Hawker Tempest.
By pilot accounts, the Typhoon
powerful, although controls were
was a solid gun platform, fast at low heavy at high speed...
altitudes and impressively powerful,
although controls were heavy at
high speed.
A nice profile view
Although it proved unsuitable of Pulveriser IV.
as a pure fighter, the Typhoon This aircraft
lives on in legend thanks to its features the
larger Tempest
remarkable ground attack record tail planes, and its
against Axis airfields, shipping, Sky fuselage band
has been roughly
vehicles and trains. overpainted.
A Hawker Typhoon
Mk.IB with four
bladed propeller
and equipped with
60 lb rockets being loaded onto presentation rockets. Note that
aircraft China British. the wing leading
edge landing light
has been deleted on
this example.
Acknowledgement: Detail view of the

top of the engine
Thanks to Dan Jackett for permission of US-D, Serial
to use these historical photographs. No. R8220.
How to Build... Airfix 1:24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib 5
p 04-05 Background TyphoonBG.indd 5 02/07/2014 09:09

CHAPTER 1 Hawker Typhoon Close Up
H
awker Typhoon Mk.IB
MN235 is the only surviv-
ing complete example of
the type.
The aircraft was completed
under contract ACFT/943/C.23(a)
by Gloster Aircraft at Hucclecote
as part of the largest order for
Typhoons - 800 aircraft - and first
flew on 8 February 1944. After
delivery to 51 MU at Lichfield on 16
February, MN235 was selected for
evaluation and comparison testing
in the United States, and taken to
51 MU, Sealand, which was the
specialist packing unit on March 12
to be prepared for shipping. The
aircraft embarked aboard the SS
American Manufacturer on March
24, arriving in New York on April 16,
and reached Wright Field in Ohio
on May 6.
Under the terms of an order
issued by USAAF HQ in April 1944,
HAWKER TYPHOON
Material Command at Wright Field
were instructed to give the Typhoon
'complete flight test and extensive
CLOSE UP
comparative tests with our standard
fighters'. In addition, it's long range
capabilities and fighter bomber
characteristics were to be studied.
Bryan Ribbans presents a series There is no evidence that the
allocated serial of EF-401 was ever
of detailed walk around photos of applied to MN235.
This is the last intact
Hawker Typhoon
left in the world. It
the worlds only complete surviving According to further correspond-
ence, the tests were not merely
was photographed
by Bryan Ribbans
Hawker Typhoon, serial MN235, taken comparative, but were aimed at
at the RAF Museum
Hendon during 2002.
at the RAF Museum Hendon. extending the Typhoon's range and
fighter-bomber potential. However
by mid July the futility of the tests
had become apparent, as Typhoons
were already carrying 1,000lb of
bombs or rockets, as well as long
range tanks, and had little prospect
of carrying more internal fuel. As the
Typhoon was also being replaced
in service by the Tempest, the trials
were cancelled and MN235 was
placed in storage after a mere 9
hours flying time.
As a result of the American 'save
one of everything policy", MN235
found its way to prolonged storage
at the Smithsonian Institution's
National Air and Space Museum
until 1967, when an exchange was
arranged to mark the forthcoming
50th anniversary of the RAF, with
MN235 crossing the Atlantic in
exchange for a Hawker Hurricane
Mk II in January 1968.
The Typhoon was taken to 71
MU at Birchester for survey, before
6 Chapter 1 - Hawker Typhoon Close Up
p 06-11 Chapter 1 TyphoonBG.indd 6 02/07/2014 09:10

Overlapping
fuselage panels
and the oil
canning effect
may be seen here.
The rectangular
plates, often called
fish plates, were
reinforcements for
the tail section.
The nose of the

Typhoon.
Note the quite

distinct forward
and aft sections
of the cannon
fairings.
Several exhaust
configurations
were fitted to the
Typhoon. This
is one of the
shrouded types.
Note the rough

alignment and
poor fit of some
of the panels and
exhaust shrouds.
Starboard side
of the nose.
The upside-down
T shaped pitot
tube may be seen
under the wing.

The big radiator

being transported to 27 MU at 19 1969, it remained at Shawbury 2013 for preparation prior to ship- intake. Sometimes,
Shawbury to be refurbished to until transferred to the Museum ping to the Canada Aviation and moveable covers
called cuckoo
display standard, with low standard at Hendon in 1972. Before going Space Museum, where it went on doors were fitted
replacements being made for the on display, MN235 received a display to commemorate the 70th inside.
spinner, upper engine cowlings, new paint scheme to reproduce Anniversary of the D-Day landings. The fine honeycomb
radiator, oil cooler, port aileron and the camouflage originally worn by of the radiator face
parts of the undercarriage. Typhoons.* * Historical summary courtesy of Wikia may be appreciated
in this photo.
Although officially handed to MN235 was sent to the RAF http://warbirds.wikia.com/wiki/Hawker_
the RAF Museum on November Museum Cosford in November Typhoon_1B_MN235# A head on view of
the spinner and
radiator intake.
The radiator flap

is open.
A side on view of
the radiator flap.
Interior view of
the radiator flap.
The back of the

radiator may be
glimpsed from this
unique angle.

The anti-shimmy
tail wheel. The
rear starboard
navigation light
may be seen at
the rear root of the
horizontal stabilizer
too.
Not the greatest

shot due to low light
and shadow, but
here we can see the
wide groove around
the solid tyres
circumference.
One of the main

wheels. Note the
smooth tread.
The outer view

of the port
undercarriage.
The pilots
retractable step.
A 3 rocket with
60 lb head. Eight
of these could
be carried by the
Typhoon.

Port wheel well
- looking forward
and inward.
Port wheel well

- looking forward
and outward.
Starboard wheel
well - looking
forward and
inward.
Starboard wheel
well - looking
forward and
outward.
Hawker Typhoon
instrument panel
(this photo by
Andy Mortimer).

This cockpit section
is preserved at
Imperial War
Museum Duxford.
Looking down into

the pilots foot
well and port side
console.
A nice view of
the footrests,
control column,
rudder pedals and
forward starboard
side console.
Note that many
of the features
are painted with
aluminium lacquer
in this cockpit.
Port side console

and sidewall.
The gun sight

and leather
lined crash pad.
Looking down to
the right of the
pilot.
The rear of the

starboard side
console.
Quilted backrest
and shoulder
harness straps.

CHAPTER 2 Hawker Typhoon in Other Scales
HAWKER TYPHOON IN OTHER SCALES
Hawker Typhoon in 1:72 Scale

Mark Davies examines the Airfix 1:72
scale Hawker Typhoon Mk.IB.
A
lthough there is not a very sprue gates are extremely chunky Fishtail plates are
moulded to the
wide range of models and limited-run in nature, leaving fuselage.
available, the quality of some large lumps to be cleaned
Hawker Typhoon models up from parts like the wing leading
in 1:72 scale is good. The two main edges. There are some quite fine
choices are from Brengun and Airfix. parts; although again, these are not
The pick of these 1:72 Typhoon quite up with the best.
kits is the recent Airfix release. The clear canopy parts are thin
with good clarity, although the
Airfix Kit No. A02041 1:72 windscreen is not as polished as
The undercarriage
scale Hawker Typhoon Mk.IB the sliding hood. bay is moulded
Airfix released their all-new 1:72 This kits cockpit detail betters all integrally with the
ducting and the
Hawker Typhoon Mk.IB during 2013. previous long-run injection moulded cockpit floor.
The kit is moulded with reason- kits, but is not as good as the
ably fine recessed panel lines, and Brengun or Pavla short-run kits. The
some acceptable raised detail on cockpit features tubular framework
the wings. Unfortunately, the panel and other detail moulded integrally
lines are almost the same width with the fuselage halves. It has an
as the hinge lines for the control open floor with heel-boards in true
surfaces, the gap being about right Hawker-fashion. Detail is even
provided on the
for the latter. The panel lines on the Rather unusual is the way the insides of the
wings and cowl seem finer than floor is moulded with the wheel undercarriage
doors a far cry
those on the rear fuselage. The finer wells and part of the radiator duct- from old 1:72 scale
lines approach the standard set by ing to form a single assembly. This Airfix kits.
some better brands. Some of the tooling approach gives the best
12 Chapter 2 - Hawker Typhoon in Other Scales

es
rendition of the upper radiator duct- there was some arrangement to
ing I have seen in this scale. close off the annular intake in the
The seat is quite nicely done with radiator when the engine breathed
quilted leather back-padding and through the ventral filter on the
separate armour, although the seat ground, but I have no idea how this
pan looks a little short; perhaps due looked. If readers are aware of how
to the thickness of the plastic edge. the intake air was rerouted please The big four-bladed
There is no seat harness, but this is e-mail me with the details. propeller.
can be added easily enough. The fuselage halves enclose
The instrument panel is smooth the cockpit, radiator matrix and
and uses a crude decal for instru- tail-wheel, leaving the wheel wells
ments; where all of the dial outlines protruding either side of the assem-
on the panel are white on black. bled fuselage. These in turn serve
Rudder pedals, a control column to help locate the wings. The wings
and gun-sight complete this sub- include the option of cutting open
Optional Hispano
assembly. Two tubes that are not the gun access panels to display cannon are
included braced the mount, but the cannon and their ammunition included.
these can easily be scratch-built boxes. Some nicely moulded open
from rod or stretched sprue. There doors are provided to replace the
is no clear gun-sight reflector, which sections cut out.
is correct, as Typhoons with bubble However, the gun breech and
canopies projected the reticule ammo-feed detail is basic, and I feel
image onto the windscreen this is a bit of gimmick; but it may
Cockpit detail colours are given, appeal to some, including younger The main wheels
but I am not convinced that a modellers. However, no harm is are weighted and
keyed for correct
totally grey-green cockpit interior down as the wings come with the alignment with the
as advised is correct. I understand access hatches moulded shut. undercarriage legs.
that Gloster, which built most The wings lack landing lights;
Typhoons, finished their cockpits in however, early in 1944 the starboard
matt black above waist level, with light was deleted, and some
aluminium tubular framing, seat Typhoons had their lights plated
and lower panels. The preserved over when carrying rockets, so
cockpit in the Imperial War Museum check references for your selected
and illustrations in the Pilots Notes colour scheme.
support this. Hawker-built airframes Continuing with the fuselage, The optional open
may have had a grey-green finish the curvature of the fin does not doors for the wing
where Gloster used black, but I quite look right to me, as it finishes cannon bays.
cannot be sure. almost horizontally, rather than on
The radiator and oil-cooler matrix a slight downward curve where the
comes as one part, with a separate top meets the rudder; but this is
carburettor. The matrix is very finely a very slight issue. The fuselage
represented. is also around a 2-mm or so
The wheel-well/cockpit floor shorter than the Brengun, CMR The kit features
assembly mentioned earlier also and Academy Typhoons, and A.L recessed surface
detail throughout.
provides the ducting roof for the Bentleys plans as well. The differ-
rear of the radiator. A nice touch is ence appears to be in the length of
the separate radiator vent, allowing the fuselage forward of the cockpit,
it to be positioned open if desired. but I think that this variation of a
Interestingly, and I think a first for scale 6-inches matters little. The
Typhoon kits, Airfix have included a fishplates are moulded as raised
tropical air filter that mounts behind detail, and so are somewhat exag-
Finely moulded
the radiator between the main gerated, although a little better than rocket rails are
wheel wells. This filter was fitted to Academy in this regard. included.
late production Typhoons, but its I think some light sanding will
location makes it very hard to see in improve their appearance. Airfix pro-
period photos (and I have yet to see vides only un-shrouded exhausts.
published plans featuring it either). These, and the shrouded type, were
It is not the same as fitted to earlier the most common styles of exhaust
Typhoons used for tropical testing, used, although there were other
nor is it the same as the albeit variations; so check your references.
The tail planes and
similar arrangement applied to the The four-blade propeller looks optional closed
Tempest Mk.VI, which has appeared good. I also like the way the prop, undercarriage doors.
in published plans. Presumably, mounts to a separate collar that can

CHAPTER 2 Hawker Typhoon in Other Scales
inserted to the fuselage after paint- two 1,000-lb bombs, and these are
ing is complete, as this enables a also reasonably well done.
rotating propeller to be modelled Not a lot remains to describe.
without it being in the way during The bubble canopy and windscreen
assembly and painting. are separate so it can be modelled
Shell ejection ports
Airfix has made a nice job of the open. That just leaves an underwing are moulded into
undercarriage. The commendably pitot, and the retractable boarding the bottom of the
deep and detailed main wheel step. This last item will benefit from wings.
wells mount to the wing underside, some refinement, as it is perhaps a

ensuring that there is an undercut little chunky in appearance.
rather than walls that conform to the I think that this kit should be very
outline wheel well opening as on straightforward to build, certainly
some other kits. The oxygen bottles far more so than its closest rival by
located in the wheel wells are pro- Brengun.
vided, along with the main leg and
ancillary door retraction jacks. The Conclusion Rockets are nicely
moulded too.
undercarriage doors are nicely done, This is a good effort from Airfix.
with faceted internal panels like the The moulding is not quite up to the
original. The axles have the correct standard of the better brands from
camber to the axles, rather than the Far East, but it is a real advance
being perpendicular to the undercar- on the first new tool releases by
riage leg. The colour call-out for the Airfix under Hornbys ownership.
inside of the main undercarriage Its main competitor for this
doors is medium sea grey. A friend subject is Brenguns Typhoon kit. The canopy is
moulded in two
of mine who spent a long time The Airfix kits surface and cockpit parts nice touch.
researching his 1:48 scale Typhoon detail almost as refined as the
project advised me that aluminium is Brengun kit; but its big advantage
the more likely colour here. is that it avoids the Czech kits very
The main wheels consist of two undesirable need for major tail
halves, with a complete hub on one surgery that results from the same
half, which can serve to aid painting fuselage moulds being used for
a little. The tyres have flats moulded three and four-blade options. The Sidewall detail
is moulded onto
in place to simulate weight- bear- Airfix kit is much easier to build in the inside of the
ing, and location keys that ensure this regard; and in fact, I would fuselage halves.
these are at the correct angle to the expect it to build better all-round.
undercarriage legs. The tail wheel is I suspect that many will regard its
simple and nicely done, and is the scale finesse is close enough to
anti-shimmy kind generally found on Brenguns anyway. Approaching
later Typhoons, although the deep half the Czech kits price, the more
groove in the centre tread area is readily available Airfix kit is sure to
missing due to moulding limitations; be a winner.
The subtle quilting
so this needs to be added for Price considerations aside, I am can be seen here on
the tyre to look correct. There are tempted rate the two brands equal the pilots seat.
separate single-piece doors to cater best for a four-blade Typhoon in
for a retracted undercarriage, which 1:72 scale. Choosing one over
is a nice touch. the other comes down largely to a
Rocket launch rails or bomb preference between detail refine-
pylons mounting holes are indi- ment versus ease of construction.
cated by partial holes on the inside Brenguns kit remains the best
face of the lower wing and the choice for a three-blade Typhoon
instructions identify which should however, as Airfix does not cover
be drilled through for rockets or this option.
bombs. The rocket rails are okay, This is a very nice kit from Airfix. The intake matrix.
but possibly a little too chunky. They I am sure it will be well received
and are the steel Mk.I pattern that by many. If they would just refine
taper towards the tip, the aluminium their panel lines a bit more, Airfixs
Mk.III type was a little longer and new products could be up there
un-tapered, but Airfix have not pro- with some of the best. Despite this,
vided these as an option; although I still think that Airfix is the best
it would be nice to have for late four-blade Typhoon choice for the
production example. The rockets majority of modellers in the One Markings are
are reasonable given the limitations True Scale. supplied for two
aircraft.
of injection moulding. Airfix includes I recommended this kit highly.
14 Chapter 2 - Hawker Typhoon in Other Scales

S
Note the long

insert in the upper
fuselage. This
accommodates
either the early car
door canopy, or the
later bubble top, by
the use of different
inserts.
Cockpit detail is
quite basic, but
there are a number
of after market
options to enhance
this area.
Hasegawas 1:48 scale Car Door The best way to
Typhoon, built by Brett Green tackle the fuselage
insert is to fit
each part to each
HAWKER TYPHOON IN 1:48 SCALE fuselage side before

the fuselage halves
are joined. There is
Hasegawa produces the best 1:48 scale still plenty of filling

and sanding needed
Hawker Typhoon kits available today.

though, as the insert
does not fall on
natural panel lines.
Brett Green examines these kits.
H
asegawa released several inserts for the upper cockpit area, a
1:48 scale versions of the clear vision sliding canopy and four-
Hawker Typhoon, starting bladed propeller assembly. Eight The biggest problem
with the Car Door Early rockets and rails are included too. now is a very large
gap between the
Version in early 1999. fuselage halves
This kit comprises 82 parts in THE FLY IN THE OINTMENT where the inserts
meet.
medium grey coloured plastic, Hasegawa started making the most
12 parts in clear and markings for of their mouldings during the 1990s
two aircraft. by tooling parts with separate For this project, the
gaps were shimmed
The model is very accurate in inserts to permit multiple versions of with plastic and
terms of outline and detail. a particular aircraft. steps were filled
with Milliput two-
Surface detail stands up well While I am sure that this part epoxy putty.
even by todays highest standards approach will be applauded by
with fine, crisp and consistent accountants everywhere, it does
recessed panel lines plus selected have its disadvantages.
rivet lines and fasteners. Two The first problem is
configurations of the car door that join seams do not
canopy are supplied - one single always coincide with
closed piece, and another with natural panel lines, meaning
separate side door and top hatch, that some filling, sanding and
which may both be posed open. rescribing may be necessary. The fuselage with
filling and sanding
Two 500 lb bombs and three The second issue is that fit is complete.
styles of Hispano 20mm cannon sometimes awful.
barrels (two uncovered and one This edition of Hasegawas 1:48
covered) are included. Both scale Hawker Typhoon features
shrouded and unshrouded inserts in each upper mid fuselage
exhausts are supplied too. area to accommodate the car door
Cockpit detail is adequate configuration. In later releases, a
straight from the box, with the different set of fuselage inserts for
typical bottomless floor well rep- the bubble top was included. A number of key
resented. The wheel wells feature Forearmed with the knowledge panel lines were lost
during the filling and
raised structural detail and some of potential fit problems, I started sanding stage. These
plumbing moulded in place. construction by gluing the inserts were reinstated
using a scriber and
Hasegawas bubbletop Typhoon, into each fuselage side. I worked on a length of self-
released later in 1999, is substan- each side separately as this allowed adhesive Dymo tape
tially the same kit but with different me to align the curved edges of the as a guide.

CHAPTER 2 HAWKER TYPHOON IN OTHER SCALES
Some of these early
Typhoons featured
a high contrast,
hard-edged finish. I
wanted to duplicate
this for my project.
The car door

version provides
under wing bombs.
All this work delivers

the desired result
no steps or gaps.
inserts with the contours of the fuse- CONCLUSION

lage sides. It would be much easier Hasegawas 1:48 scale Hawker
to deal with a gap along the top of Typhoon Mk.IB might have been
the fuselage than to fill, recontour released more than 14 years ago, Chris Wauchop built
the Hasegawa 1:48
and sand the fuselage sides. but it still holds up well by todays scale bubbletop
As it turned out, I was able to standards. The relatively small Typhoon Mk.IB. This
line up the inserts and the fuselage parts count makes it appropriate for kit is supplied with
eight rockets and
sides pretty well, although there even a beginner modeller, with only rails.
would be a few stray join seams to the poorly fitting fuselage inserts
clean up later. complicating the build.
However, test fitting the fuselage If you like more of a challenge,
The bubbletop
halves exposes the real problem. there are plenty of aftermarket version suffers
There was a prominent gap of accessories and markings out from the same fit
problems as the car
between 1 and 2 mm on the top there. I can highly recommend the door kit.
fuselage centreline between the Barracuda Studios cockpit, wheels,
inserts. This gap needed some seri- exhausts and intakes. They lift this
ous attention further down the track. model to a different level.
Markings are from

Aeromaster Decals
item No. 48-436
Storms in the Sky
Pt. X.
16 Chapter 2 - Hawker

S
HAWKER TYPHOON IN 1:32 SCALE

Choices in 1:32 scale are limited,
but MDCs resin kit is a beauty.
I
t seems remarkable that we do Harness straps are supplied in the
not yet have a high quality 1:32 photo-etched fret.
scale injection moulded plastic The tube framing does have a bit
kit of an aircraft as important as of feather-like flash to clean up, but
the Hawker Typhoon. the effort will be well worthwhile.
Until the middle of the last dec- The kit provides clear resin
ade, our only choice was the very navigation lights. These look
old and very basic Revell 1:32 scale cloudy on the casting block, but
Typhoon, with its raised surface will probably polish up nicely and
details and clunky moving parts. should respond to a quick bath in The MDC
multimedia 1:32
Model Design Construction Future Floor Polish. scale Typhoon.
offered some respite with their This model is supported by cast
limited run multimedia Hawker brass undercarriage legs - probably
Typhoon Mk.IB, released in 2006. just as well considering the hefty
MDC's 1:32 Hawker Typhoon Mk.IB weight of the finished airframe.
comprises 83 parts in grey coloured MDC rounds out the package The full-length fuselage
resin, 7 parts in clear resin; photo- with a choice of three-bladed or halves feature large
Tempest-style tailplanes.
etched fret; 2 parts in cast brass; four-bladed propeller assemblies.
clear vacform canopy (plus one The kit does not supply ordnance
spare); and markings for six aircraft. (rockets may be purchased
The kit is carefully packed in a separately) or the early, smaller
stout box, with parts for each sub- horizontal tailplanes often seen on
assembly inside a separate plastic Typhoons before they were fitted
bag. The large, hollow fuselage with the large Tempest tailplanes.
halves and vacform canopies are Five marking options are supplied
also protected by a packing tube on two high-quality decal sheets
inside the main box. printed by Fantasy Printshop.
The kit features superb surface Unlike some limited run kits,
detail - crisply engraved panel lines MDC's Typhoon has been designed
combined with raised structural with a number of clever assembly
details including fasteners and rein- aids, including ridges and locating
forcement tabs where appropriate. points mating surfaces of the
The fuselage halves are especially fuselage halves, locating tabs on
noteworthy in this respect. the tailplanes, and stout holes in the
Each wing is supplied as a single wing roots to accurately position Each wing is
part. They are amazing pieces of those heavy wings. a single large
resin in their own right, each with a There will be some cleanup, but it casting, including
wheel well detail.
deep and wonderfully detailed wheel is mostly lightweight. There are no
well cast in place. How the heck heavy casting blocks on any of the
would they get this out of the mould? resin parts.
The trailing edges are ready for
the separate ailerons and flaps with CONCLUSION
recessed locating positions making MDCs 1:32 scale Typhoon is a gor-
it easy to position these control sur- geous chunk of resin that is impres-
faces. The flaps are especially nice, sively detailed, cleverly designed, Luxurious cast
brass main
with all rib detail cast into the parts perfectly cast and accurate. undercarriage legs.
Smaller details are no less Considering the amount of effort
impressive. The cockpit includes that must go into casting each of
full internal framing and a delicately these masterpieces, the purchase
detailed seat with a convincingly price is pretty reasonable too. I did
quilted backrest. This front office is not hesitate in forking out my cash.
accurately "bottomless", with footrails You will definitely need experience
forming the minimal pilot's floor. The with resin kits if you want to Eight marking
instrument panel features flat disks tackle this project, but MDC's options are offered.
Two more decal
for dials, ready for the nicely detailed thoughtful engineering should make sheets are included.
MDC RAF instrument decals. workbench time a real pleasure.

CHAPTER 3 Airfix 1:24 Typhoon In the Box
AIRFIX 1:24 TYPHOON IN THE BOX

T
he Airfix 1:24 scale Hawker 1. 2.
Typhoon Mk.IB comprises 1. The two main
fuselage halves on
430 parts on 13 sprues in the sprues.
pale grey coloured plastic
and 19 parts in clear plastic. 2. Note the rippled
oilcan effect on
The model may be built as any the main surfaces.
of the common Typhoon bubbletop
3. The surfaces
sub-variants, with options includ- are also covered
ing three or four bladed propeller 3. 4. with lines of holes
assemblies; three styles of spinner; representing rivets.
Note the raised
shrouded or unshrouded exhausts; fish plates,
alternative radiator intakes, cuckoo which were
reinforcements for
doors and tropical filter; leading the tail.
edge or lower wing mounted land-
4. The lower wing
ing lights; and early small tail planes centre section.
or later large (Tempest) tail planes.
An excellent selection of 5. One of the
5. 6. overlapping upper
ordnance is offered including wing panels.
eight rockets, two styles of rocket
6. The opening in
rails, streamlined wing fuel tanks, the upper wing will
two 250lb bombs and two 500lb allow the cannon
bombs. The undercarriage may be bay to be displayed.
built lowered or retracted, and the 7. Youll need to

wing cannon may be displayed with decide early on
whether you are
the access covers open or closed. fitting rockets,
Parts for the early car door ver- bombs or tanks,
as the appropriate
sion are not included but the fuse- locating holes need
lage breakdown suggests that it 7. 8. to be drilled out
might be a possible future release. before the wings
are assembled.
Surface Texture 8. The early

horizontal tail
The first thing that struck me when I planes have a
examined the contents was the sur- smaller surface
face texture. Airfix has moulded this area, although it is
hard to pick with
kit with a rippled oilcan texture the naked eye.
on all the exterior metal surfaces.
18 Chapter 3 Airfix 1:24 Typhoon In the Box

This creates the effect of a slight 9. 10.
bulge between rows of rivets. It is
quite a daring move on Airfixs part,
but the result is both striking and
convincing.
The fuselage and wings are cov- 9. These are the
ered with rows of recessed holes larger Tempest-style
representing rivets. Although rivets tail planes, also
provided by Airfix
may have been better represented as an option.
by recessed circles rather than
10. The elevators,
the holes, the effect is more than with their prominent
11. 12.
acceptable, especially when viewed dome-headed
more than a few inches from the raised rivets.
surface of the plastic. 11. Fabric texture

The fuselage and wings also on the kit rudder.
boast a number of raised surface 12. The ailerons
features panels, fairings and bulg- also feature raised
rivets moulded onto
es that contribute to the overall the top and bottom
impression of a robust design that surfaces.
favoured functionality over elegance.
13. Although the fin
Of particular note is the inclusion 13. 14. is the same size on
of raised fish plates external the early and late
tails, the mounting
reinforcements for the tail after a position for the
number of early structural failures. horizontal tail
The elevators and ailerons are planes are different.
This is the early
moulded with raised domed rivets. small version.
I think these look great, and
14. The fin section
they are certainly appropriate for for the late
these metal surfaces. The rudder Tempest-style tail
planes. Note that
presents the believable impression the root for the
of fabric stretched over framework, 15. 16. horizontal stabiliser
capped by a metal fairing at the comes further
forward than the
bottom. The rudder, ailerons and early version.
elevators are all designed to be
15. Two styles of
workable. The landing flaps may be exhaust shrouds
posed open or closed. are included,
although neither
are called out in the
Kit Engineering instructions.
The fuselage is moulded with a
16. This style is
number of inserts. The upper and more fully covered.
lower cowls are separate parts,
17. The stirrup-style
as are upper cockpit panels. The retractable pilots
bottom of the fuselage is also a step.
separate part, as is the vertical 17. 18.
18. The upper
stabiliser (fin) and a section of cockpit sidewall
fuselage at its base. sections are
separate inserts,
The fuselage cowling inserts suggesting that
allow four different configurations we might see
for the engine: alternative pieces
for a car door
1. All the cowling panels may Typhoon in the
be glued in place, completely future. Note the
tropical filter on
enclosing the engine. this sprue too. This
2. The upper and lower panels may filter was fitted
to late production
be left off, displaying the top of Typhoons.
the engine and the radiator with 19. 20.
its associated plumbing and 19. Close up detail
of the rivet and
mounting hardware. inspection hatch
3. The bottom panels may be glued detail.
in place and the top panel left off 20. Two full set of
to display the top of the engine, or doors is provided
4. The centre side engine cowling for the wing cannon
bay. These are
sections may be cut off the front designed to be
of the fuselage to display the displayed open.

engine in its entirety. 21. 22.
It would appear that the model is
not designed to make the cowlings
removable (i.e. taking the cowlings
on and off the completed engine),
although the top cowl might be
partially removable with a little
extra work.
The separate upper cockpit
fuselage panels appear to be an
indication that we might see the 23. 24.
car door early version Typhoon in
the future.
The lower fuselage insert is
probably an engineering feature to
permit the moulding of the sophis-
ticated surface detail without suffer-
ing from moulding imperfections.
The upper tail insert allows either
the early small tail surfaces or the
late Tempest tail to be used. 25. 26.
The pilots hand holds and
21. Note the lovely
footholds on the fuselage side are hinges on the
separate parts that may be posed joining surfaces
of these folding
open or closed. The retracting hatches.
stirrup-style step is also supplied as
22. The full-sized,
a separate part. closed hatch option.
Detail is very complete in almost These are designed
every area. to be glued shut
over mostly empty
cannon bays. They
27. 28.
Cockpit will not fit over the
ammo drums and
The cockpit looks fantastic, other detail parts.
being built up in layers of tubular
framework and detail parts just like 23. The wheel bay
ceilings.
the real thing. Construction takes
place in steps, adding consoles, 24. These
perforated strips
the quadrant, control column and will be glued onto
actuators, wheels, knobs, handles the wheel bay
ceilings, adding
and the rest. Electrical cabling and authentic detail to
hydraulic wires are also present in 29. the area.
the cockpit. The seat is made up
25. The
from four pieces and features gor- undercarriage
geous subtle quilted texture for the may be posed
in the retracted
pilots backrest. The harness straps position. This part
are supplied as injection moulded is fitted to the
plastic parts. A separate seat cush- inside of the wing
to represent closed
ion is provided too, if desired. undercarriage
A seated pilot figure is also doors.
offered as an option. Moulding 26. The
quality is very good, and the pose undercarriage
door parts for the
is quite natural right hand on the lowered gear.
control yoke and left hand on the 30. 31.
throttle. We dont get to see much 27. Detail parts for
the wheel wells.
of the face, as he is wearing his
flying helmet and oxygen mask, 28. More wheel
well detail.
but what we can see looks excel-
lent good eye detail and even 29. The lower
creases on the skin of his forehead. fuselage insert.
Interestingly, in the instructions, the 30. Upper engine

pilot appears to be wearing modern cowling panels.
glasses. I am wondering if this is 31. The lower cowl
parts. These cover
the radiator.

some sort of Airfix in joke. 32. 33.
The instrument panel is a
sandwich of clear and grey plastic
parts with decals designed to
represent dials on the back of the
clear section.
Engine and Internal

Wing Structure
The engine is a marvel of modern
34. 35.
plastic engineering. Once again, it
is built up in many layers and detail
is very complete.
Airfix offers an electric motor
available separately as an option
if you want your propeller to spin.
The internal wing structure is
fully represented including spars,
frames, fuel tanks, wheel wells and
a full cannon bay on each side.
36. 37.
The four Hispano cannon are quite
simple in parts breakdown but they
look effective when complete. The
bottom of the gun bays have a few
ejector pin circles that should be
cleaned up before assembly one
of the few places where moulding
imperfections will be visible after the
model is built. Cannon bay covers
are supplied. These may be posed 38. 39.
in open or closed configuration. 32. More cowling
pieces.
The wheel wells are each made
up from a large plastic part for the 33. Radiator body
and plumbing.
ceiling supplemented by seven
perforated strips to add authentic 34. Some of the
structure to this space. The wheel plumbing for the
lower engine bay.
well is boxed in on all sides by the
spars and other panels. A jumble of 35. Optional filters
40. 41. for the radiator
injection-moulded wiring completes intake.
the wheel wells.
36. Cuckoo doors
are offered as an
Finishing Touches option. These were
The undercarriage legs are simple fitted to counter
the dust and dirt of
but accurate. unmade airfields.
Airfix supplies five-spoke main
37. The cockpit is
wheels and a solid anti-shimmy tail built up inside a
wheel. The main wheels are flat- tubular framework.
tened and bulged.
38. Cockpit and
The canopy may be posed open fuselage interior
or closed, but is not designed to parts.
actually slide. 42.
39. The firewall,
foot rails. Rudder
Instructions pedals and more.
Instructions are called out over a 40. The pilots seat

whopping 229 steps. Each step is features separate
parts for the sides.
well illustrated, with a clear indica-
tion of part numbers where applica- 41. The seat
backrest is moulded
ble. There are no construction notes with lovely quilted
to accompany the illustrations. texture.
Paint callouts are solely numbers
42. The front of
of Humbrol enamel paints. the kits instrument
panel simple yet
effective.

43. 44.
Markings
A large decal sheet with markings
for four aircraft is included:
1. Hawker Typhoon 1B, Wing
Commander Charles Green, No121
Wing, RAF.
2. Hawker Typhoon 1B, No. 247
Sqn, 2nd Tactical Air Force.
3. Hawker Typhoon 1B, No. 245
Sqn, 2nd Tactical Air Force. With
shark mouth. 45.
4. Hawker Typhoon 1B, No 440

Sqn, RCAF 2nd Tactical Air Force.
Extensive stencil markings and

a variety of national markings are
also included.
Conclusion
Airfix has delivered a truly stunning
kit with this 1:24 scale Typhoon
Mk.IB. In my opinion, it is easily the
best kit that Airfix has produced.
As nice as the 1:24 scale Mosquito
was, this one is quite clearly better.
Whereas in places the Mosquito
felt a bit like a scaled-up project,
46.
the Typhoon does not. The detail
stands close scrutiny quite a feat
for such a large model.
The whole package is very
complete and beautifully delivered.
You really wont need to add
much detail to any area of the kit.
Engineering is clever too, although
tight tolerances will mean chal-
lenges in constructions here and
there. Options are abundant and fit
is generally excellent.
Furthermore, the fact that Airfix
has delivered a model to this
exemplary standard using only
plastic parts is a real tribute to the
designers ambition and flair. They
really have managed to squeeze
the maximum from the medium. 43. Port side
It wont be a fast build, and it console.
might not be easy either, but it will 44. The starboard
be a memorable journey delivering side console.
a spectacular result!
45. The cockpit is
47. 48. mounted on top
of the stout wing
spars.
46. A seated pilot

figure is included.
47. Facial features

are excellent. He
should look great
after a careful paint
job.
48. A separate seat

cushion is offered
as an option.

49. 50.
51. 52.
53. 54.
49. Harness straps

are supplied as
plastic parts.
50. The sides of

the big 24 cylinder
engine block.
51. Supercharger
55. 56. components.
52. Top and bottom

of the engine block.
53. The ignition

harness and other
engine details.
54. The engine

detail is truly
remarkable,
especially
considering it is
100% plastic.
57. 58.
55. The twin
exhaust stacks.
56. Wing interior

structural detail.
These double to box
in the wheel wells
and cannon bays.
57. Cannon bay

detail parts.
58. Those long

Hispano cannon!

61. 62. 63.
64. 65.
66. 67.
61. Eight rockets

are supplied.
62. Two styles of

rocket rails are
supplied. This is
one half of the two-
part option.
63. The other

section of the two-
part rails.
68. 69. 70.
64. Long slim one-
part rails are also
included.
65. Forward
sections of the
500lb bombs.
66. Rear sections

of the big 500lb
bombs.
67. Two body

halves from one of
71. 72. the 250lb bombs.
68. Detail parts for

the bombs.
69. The wing bomb

racks.
70. The sway

braces for the 250lb
and 500lb bombs.
71. The streamlined

wing tanks are
moulded with their
mounts.
72. One of the

spinner cap options.

73. 74.
75. 76. 77.
78. 79.
73. Two more

spinner caps.
74. Propeller blades

are common to all
spinner options.
80. 81.
75. These fuel tanks
that will be hidden
inside the wings.
76. The five spoke

main wheels.
77. No vinyl
tyres here, thank
goodness!
78. The kit

windscreen
beautifully thin and
free from distortion.
79. Additional clear

parts.
82. 83.
80. The kit decal
sheet supplies
markings for four
options.
81. The colours look

good and printing
is crisp.
82. Plenty of small

and colourful detail
decals are included.
83. Instrument dials

are supplied as
individual decals
too.

CHAPTER 4 STEP BY STEP
STEP BY STEP
BUILDING THE AIRFIX 1:24 SCALE
HAWKER TYPHOON MK.IB
An illustrated guide to construction,
straight from the box.
26 Chapter 4 - Step by Step

T
he new Airfix 1:24 scale The character of the kits, results in quite a distinctly different
Typhoon Mk.IB is made however, is quite different. building experience.
up from 430 grey plastic In common with Airfix, Tamiya Although I did not tally up the
parts and another 19 in provides a high level of detail in the exact number of hours spent on
clear plastic. cockpit and engine compartment construction, my impression was
It is interesting to compare the (and wing gun bays in the case of that the Airfix Typhoon took more
number of parts and the approach the Mustang). time to build than the Tamiya kits
of this new Airfix release with two However, Airfix and Tamiya have not surprising considering its larger
recent models that have set a new taken very different routes. Tamiya size and relatively complex painting
standard for large scale models makes use of photo-etched and sequence for the cockpit, engine
Tamiyas 1:32 scale Spitfire Mk.IX other metal parts to deliver fine compartment and cannon bays.
family and P-51D/K kits. detail and crucial functionality for Checking back, I found that basic
With roughly around the same its P-51D/K and Spitfires. Airfix construction of the Tamiya Spitfire
number of parts as Tamiyas 1:32 has chosen to tread the entirely was completed over 17 days, while
scale P-51D/K and Spitfires, you traditional path, achieving superb the Mustang took 15 days and the
might expect a similar build. detail with plastic parts alone. This Airfix Typhoon was 19 days.

The inner spar panels were
In common with Tamiyas clamped in place while the
Spitfires and Mustangs, you glue set to ensure there
were no gaps.
do need to stay focused and
pay close attention to the Airfix
instructions during assembly. In
this case, the instructions are
supplied across 229 construction
steps in a 36 page booklet.
Before you start the model,
I strongly recommend that you
spend plenty of time getting familiar
with the contents of the
instructions. Walk through
the construction mentally The cockpit framework
before you break out the starts to take shape.
sprue cutter. Make notes on
the instruction booklet as you read
through it, or highlight elements that
you think might be important as your
model takes shape. The instruction
booklet can be a useful tool, so
make the most of it.
The completed cockpit
framework has been
BEFORE WE START slotted on to the two
Airfixs plastic is perhaps slightly main wing spars.
softer than average, so take care
not to scar the surface of the parts
when cleaning them up.
There was some fine flash on
parts in my sample, but this may
have been due to the fact that I
had been issued an early test shot. This structure
creates a sturdy
There are also a number of deep core for the model.
sink marks and sink lines, as well Precise alignment
is very important at
as visible ejector pin circles. It is this stage.
worth spending as much time as
needed with a hobby knife, putty
and sanding stick to make sure This is a view
that parts are properly cleaned up from the bottom
front of the cockpit
before they are assembled. framework,
Fit is generally excellent, but underneath the
engine mounts.
tolerances are very tight in places Note how the V
so it is imperative that the parts are shaped supports fit
into the framework
completely free from flash and any and the firewall.
remnants of sprue attachments.
The same supports
viewed from the top.

The structure of the cockpit framework underneath the pilots footrests. The footrests in place. On my test shot, it would appear that the area marked with black texta
was not fully complete. There is supposed to be a raised mount for the control column here.
The oval-shaped fuselage frame behind the cockpit is held in place with a series of V Note how the supports interlock with the outer rim of the fuselage frame. It is very
shaped supports. important that these interlocking points are flush with the outer rim.
Cockpit components
assembled and ready
for installation.
The trim wheel and lower rear cockpit panel in place.
The pilots seat,

assembled. Note
the nice quilted
effect of the
backrest.
Coarse and fine sanding sticks have been used to get rid of ejector
pin circles from the pilots armour.
The five main pieces for the pilots seat. A few ejector
pin circles need to be removed from the seat pan.

Rudder pedals in
place. The instructions are very good enamel paint numbers. This is fine you commit to glue here.
with nice clear diagrams, but I if you are planning to use Humbrol The forward inner spar sections
A view of the
cockpit cage from found some of the perspectives a paints, but I was not. I wrote up a list (parts A16 and A17) are separate
the firewall, looking bit confusing. I have tried to provide of the Humbrol numbers alongside parts to maximize detail, so make
back. This is ready
for paint.
as many photos as possible their real-life colour name, and kept sure that these are completely flush
showing the actual location of parts it on my modelling desk for the with the main wing spar. I used
from different angles to minimize course of the project. clamps to guarantee that there were
the likelihood of misplacement. no gaps.
Airfixs layered approach means GETTING UNDERWAY The wing spars slot into the
that painting of the cockpit, engine Construction commences with bottom of the cockpit frame. Once
and wing cannon bays really must the framework for the cockpit and again, make sure that the slots in the
take place during construction. the wing spars. Just like the real spars are pushed all the way home.
Careful planning and forethought aeroplane, this framework forms a At this point, I started to think
about painting sub-assemblies will solid core for the entire aeroplane about when I should paint the
be helpful. so it is absolutely crucial that the cockpit and wing spar sub-
Airfix has chosen to provide colour parts are accurately assembled. assemblies.
callouts only in the form of Humbrol Take plenty of time test-fitting before
The pilots cockpit armour, viewed

from below. Note the relationship
between the upper and lower panels,
and the V shaped support.
The same sub-assembly

viewed from the front The port and starboard
three-quarter. side console elements.
Detail on the
starboard side
console. Most of this
is moulded in place.
The reverse (outer)

side of the starboard
side console. The
cabling will need to
be fed through the
framework of the
cockpit cage once
painting is complete.
Cockpit sub-assemblies ready for paint.

The firewall and
upper cockpit
frames have
been painted
black by brush.
Tamiya XF-71 The front of

the firewall is
PAINTING THE COCKPIT Cockpit Green was
black too.
used as the base
Steps 4 to 27 cover the addition colour. Note that
of structural and detail parts to the black brush painting
of some of the
cockpit. upper framework
Rather than glue all of these has already
parts in place per the instructions, commenced.
instead I prepared a number of

sub-assemblies. These were:
The basic cockpit frame with
footrests and rudder pedal
assembly
The pilots seat (without the
harness straps) Detail parts
were temporarily
Pilots armour plate and mounts attached to a small
Port side console box via Blu Tack
to make handling
Starboard side console easier during
Throttle quadrant painting.
Oxygen bottle and mount
Oil tank (parts A01 and A02)
I also cleaned up a number of
other cockpit parts but did not
attach them at this stage. These
included the control column, the
grey plastic front section of the
instrument panel, some electrical
boxes and braces.
These sub-assemblies and parts
The instrument panel, pilots armour,
were separated into three groups consoles, throttle quadrant and small
according to their ultimate colour. boxes were sprayed scale black a
50/50 mix of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black
These colours would be Cockpit and XF-64 Red Brown.
Green, Black and Silver.
I used Tamiya acrylic XF-71
Cockpit Green (IJN) as the base
colour for my cockpit. The main
cockpit frame and the wing spars
were painted this colour.
A thin mix of water, Future floor
polish and Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss
Black paint was brushed over the
Cockpit Green surfaces, leaving
a dark residue in natural shadow
areas. This was followed by subtle
dry-brushing with a lightened
version of Cockpit Green, applied
with a clean square-tipped brush. The trim wheel
and rudder pedal
The backrest for the pilots seat is adjuster have been
moulded with a quilted texture. This painted a shade of
is really impressive. The texture also red brown.

I took some time
to weather the The time spent on the quilted
paintwork on the backrest was well worthwhile
wing spars, but this though! Here, the backrest has
was a bit of a waste. been painted and dry brushed,
includes and a dark wash of thinned
stitching at Winsor & Newton has been
brushed over the seat.
the top and rivets
along the bottom. Careful
painting will render a very
convincing result. I brush painted
the quilted rectangle dark brown,
then dry-brushed three shades of
progressively paler browns over the
top. The mix of Future and Tamiya
X-18 Semi-Gloss Black was then
flowed over the entire backrest,
settling in the low-lying areas.
The stitching at the top was then
painted Tamiya XF-55 Deck Tan
with a fine brush.
The kits plastic harness straps
were now painted. The lap belts
were glued in place, but the
shoulder straps were let off until
The join seam was very prominent
the seat had been attached to the on the oil tank. The seam was
armour plate. filled with a mix of super glue and
talcum powder
I mixed a 50:50 blend of Tamiya
XF-1 Flat Black and XF-64 Red
then sanded back and polished before respraying.
Brown to obtain a shade of scale
black. The consoles, the pilots
head armour, throttle quadrant,
electrical boxes and the instrument
panel were sprayed with this colour.
The same scale black mix was
used to brush paint some of the
upper cockpit frames, the front
cockpit firewall and the footrests.
The black areas were dry-
brushed progressively paler shades
of grey.
Details were now picked out with
Vallejo acrylic paints and a fine
paintbrush.
The instrument panel was next
on the painting menu. The panel
is made up from a front section in
grey plastic and a rear section in My test shot The three sections of the instrument panel,
was not supplied painted and ready for assembly. The top is
clear. The instrument lenses are with instrument front panel, in the middle is the clear insert
raised on the clear section, so they decals so I used with the decals in place, and at the bottom is
airscales 1:24 the master compass and its mounting rail.
poke through the holes in the front scale generic WW2
section. The production kit has RAF Instrument Dial
Decals, Item No.
decals for the dials, but I did not AS24RAF.
have these for my build. I therefore
used Airscales Generic WWII RAF
Instrument Dial Decals, Item No.
AS24RAF.
Please note that since finishing
my model, Airscale has released
a 1:24 scale dial and placard set
specifically for the Airfix Typhoon.
The assembled
First, the back of the clear rear instrument panel
section was sprayed black, then the (minus the master
entire clear section was dipped in compass).

The smoothed
and repainted oil
tank, along with
the rear cockpit
oxygen cylinder.
The consoles and quadrant after decals, detail Chipping was done with the sharp tip of a Prismacolour silver pencil.
painting, a flat coat and selected chipping.
Future floor polish. The dial decals parts included chipping of the
were then simply applied to the top black armour plate with the tip of
of the raised circles. The three spare a sharpened Prismacolour silver
bulbs for the gun sight were painted pencil, and scuffing of the black
Tamiya X-24 Clear Yellow. footrests with Tamiya Weathering
Details were then picked out on Master pastels.
the front of the instrument panel; The oil tank was assembled
and the master compass and its and sprayed with Tamiyas AS-12
mounting rail were painted and set Bare Metal Silver straight from the
aside for later assembly. spray can. The join seam was very
A few stencil generic Airscale prominent after the metallic coat,
placard decals were applied over a so I filled the seams with a mix of
glossy coat of Future floor polish. super glue and talcum powder, then
All the Cockpit Green and scale sanded the joins down on the front, wont see any of this tank on the The footrests
black sub-assemblies were now rear and top. The newly smooth completed model! were scuffed
with Tamiyas
flattened down with several thin tank was then resprayed. With all the cockpit sub- Weathering Master
coats of Alclad II Klear Kote Matte. You may decide that this effort assemblies painted, all the parts pigments, applied
with the sponge
Final weathering for the cockpit is not worthwhile though, as you were glued together. applicator in the set.
Instrument panel
and master
compass glued in
place.
The seat was glued

into the cockpit
before the shoulder
harness straps were
added.
The seat and pilots

armour.
Detail of the
completed cockpit
is impressive.

Assembly of the engine block

Clamps were used to make sure the parts
is quite straightforward.
stayed firmly together as the glue set.
The propeller will

rotate if you are
careful to avoid
getting any glue on
the propeller shaft
or its mount.
Clamping the sides of the

Here is what engine block. Cant hurt!
the propeller
shaft mount
should look like
from the rear
after assembly.
ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE BAY

Steps 39 to 87 cover the assembly
of the engine and all the associated The supercharger
was taped to the
mounts and equipment. rear of the engine
Airfix offers a number of options block to ensure a
through these steps, including an perfect fit.
electric motor to spin the propeller.

It is also worth noting that if you are The assembled engine block was sprayed
planning to build your model with all Tamiya acrylic X-18 Semi Gloss Black and given
a wash of MIG Productions Neutral Wash,
the engine cowlings buttoned up, which settled naturally into recesses. Bolt
you can get away with fitting just heads were picked out in silver.
the basic engine and radiator parts.
Most of the detail parts can be left
off in that configuration. Detail parts
However, I decided that it would from Steps 51
to 59 painted
be a terrible waste to hide all that and awaiting
detail so I was going to build the installation.
entire engine and display the model
without the cowlings.
Once again, I tackled this area as
a series of sub-assemblies.
The engine block and
supercharger were quite fast and
easy to assemble. Once this was
done, the block was painted Tamiya
More detail parts, this
XF-18 Semi Gloss Black, and some time fitted underneath
the engine.

of the bolt heads were spotted with
The oil tank tube,
silver paint. Part C21, must be
The engine block fits onto two threaded through
the firewall and
pegs at the front of the engine glued into the
mounts, and into a cross-shaped bottom of the tank
before the engine is
insert in the front of the firewall. The glued in place.
fit is good pretty much a tight
press fit but I found that some
force was required to push the
block fully onto the pegs and the
cross-slot.
At this stage I clipped off and
cleaned up all the detail parts for
the top and sides of the engine,
covered by the instructions from
Steps 51 to 67. These were
divided by ultimate colour again.
The groups were black, green
and silver. Once the base colours
were sprayed, the parts were
detail-painted with a fine brush and
attached after careful reference to
the instructions. There are some
complex sequences in these steps,
so pay close attention, test fit and
double check.
I repeated this painting and
A bit of time was
installation process for the detail on spent painting and
the underside of the engine Steps weathering the
68 to 76. prominent ignition
harness.
The engine block was now pressed

onto the locating tabs on the front of
the mount and into the cross-shaped
recess in the firewall.

CHAPTER 4 Step by Step
Some pressure was

required to seat
the engine on its
mounts, but the fit
was perfect.
Port side view

from underneath.
Note that the silver
oil tank line has
been glued into
the bottom of the
engine.
The first of the

detail parts from
Step 53 have been
fitted here.
The first layer

of interwoven
plumbing.
The next layer

has been added
here. I had to test
fit Parts C09 and
C10 several times
before I worked out
how they fitted.
The ignition harness

and more detail
parts added to the
engine block.
A view from the

port side of the
engine.

RADIATOR AND DUCTING
Next up came the radiator, the
ducting and associated pipes and
details.
The radiator body was
assembled (Parts D05, D12, D13
and D14) before being sprayed A second batch of
AS-12 Silver. The radiator faces engine detail parts
painted silver and
were washed with a thin mix of ready for assembly,
Winsor & Newton Lamp Black and this time from Steps
Raw Umber oil paint, highlighting 60 to 76.
the subtle raised mesh texture.

The sides of the radiator assembly
(Parts D07 and D08) received the
same treatment.
Fitting the two side radiator pipes
(D22 and D23) is tricky. The back
of the pipes fit into slots in the front
of the wing roots after the pipes are
fed through holes in the shield (Part
D15). At first, I could not figure out
how these would fit. The pipes are
a very tight fit in the holes, and the
angle is not entirely obvious. My
best advise is to check the photos
in this Chapter, and have faith
that the parts will fit perfectly once Black painted
youve figured out the angles. parts from the
same batch of
Also note the orientation of the detail parts.
front radiator extension (Part D17)
if you are fitting it. The correct
orientation is shown in Step 86.
Once I had finished the cockpit
and engine bay, things moved on
pretty quickly.
The assembled
radiator unit viewed
from the front
and from the rear.

The lovely subdued
mesh effect has
been highlighted
with a dark oil wash. Note the location of the three pipes at the bottom of the engine terminating on the firewall. These are Parts
D24 and D26. This is another tricky sequence that may require a few dry runs before committing to glue.

It is very important that the grey shield (Part D15) is located in precisely the right place. Intake ducting comes next.
This is followed by two curved pipes (Parts D22 and D23) that have to be fed through the The big radiator housing was fixed in place and taped until the glue had completely set.
tight holes in the shield and glued into locating slots in the wing spars. This is how it should
look after the parts are glued in place.
Once they are together, the fuselage framing,

wing spars and engine really convey the
density and strength of the Typhoons core.
The completed engine unit is a very impressive piece of plastic engineering.

So much to look at, and entirely constructed of plastic! An upper view of the detail on top of the engine.
WINGS AND THINGS

As we start to work on the wings,
we have to make a few decisions.
These are:
Undercarriage position up or
down?
Ordnance bombs, rockets or
fuel tanks?
Wing cannon bays open or
closed?
Airfix provides two sets of main
Moving onto the wings, the holes for the rockets were drilled out The large drill bit left plastic residue on the outer surface of the
undercarriage mounts one set for with a pin vise. wing. This was cleaned up with the tip of a hobby knife.
retracted and one set for lowered.
These are not interchangeable
once installed, so make sure you
choose the right option for your
choice. I built my model with the
undercarriage lowered, so I used
Part Nos. F42 and F43. Silver parts sprayed
prior to wing assembly.
Step 90 clearly lays out which
holes need to be opened up for
ordnance. This is best done before
the mid-lower wing is attached
Taking no chances,
the wing spars were
comprehensively
clamped to the bottom
centre wing section to
guarantee perfect fit in
The stout undercarriage mounts were this critical area.
glued to the wing spars. I should have
taken care of that big sink mark!

At my first attempt
to the wing spars. If you are I assembled the This is the correct
wrong internal wing
building your model with retracted structure this
configuration for the
lowered undercarriage
undercarriage, the gear bay doors is for the raised internal wing structure.
(H01 and H02) should be fitted undercarriage
option.
from the inside before attaching the
lower wing to the spar too.
The bottom of the spar attach to
the wing via nice positive locating
tabs and pins.
Once the lower centre wing
section is attached and the glue has
thoroughly set, we can start adding
the interior wing structure. Take care
here, as the configuration of the Once again, clamps were
internal wing structure is different for used to ensure a tight fit.
raised or lowered undercarriage. If

you are building your model with the
undercarriage down, ignore steps
95 and 96, and skip straight to
Steps 97, 98 and 99.
Some of the wing bulkheads
need to be finessed into position,
but the instructions do a good job
showing the angles and sequence
or assembly.
Construction of the wing cannon
bays and the remaining internal wing
Elements from the
structures is covered in Steps 107 wing cannon bays
through to 127, including the leading were painted and
weathered before
edge and main wing fuel tanks. I they were fitted.
painted the bays and the tanks, but
you dont really need to as they are
completely sealed inside the wings
when the model is finished.
If you plan to seal the cannon
bays, do not install the ammunition
feeds or drums (Steps 111 to 114
and Steps 117 to 124). These will
interfere with the fit of the closed
bay doors.
If you do plan to display the
cannon bays, you might want to The mounts for the
Hispano cannon
paint the various parts in sub- and internal wing
assemblies prior to bringing the structure may be
components together. seen fitted to the
wings here.
The roof each undercarriage
ceiling is a separate part, with
thin perforated ribs adding extra
detail. Make sure the ribs are
properly pressed into place or they
may interfere with the fit of the
undercarriage ceilings.

Once again, the detail is built up
in layers in the cannon bays.
The simple parts breakdown of the

long Hispano cannon and drums.
The ends of the barrels are solid,

so they were hollowed out with the
tip of a sharp hobby knife blade.
Note the unattractive seam line too.
My paint number
translation list!
The ammo feeds awaiting assembly.
The leading edge

and main wing fuel
tanks, assembled
prior to painting.
In fact, you could
really skip painting
these as they will
be hidden inside the
wings.
The Hispano cannon and associated
sub-assemblies painted and weathered.
The empty bays just yearn for all
that busy cannon detail!
Those long barrels are

exposed and vulnerable
during the remaining
assembly.
The barrels must be bent

and threaded through the
holes in the wing spars.
Luckily, the soft plastic
bent and did not break.

I found that the undercarriage there were exceptions. Check your

ceilings needed clamps to ensure references.
that they sat down perfectly on My wings fitted perfectly. First the
the undercarriage bay sidewalls. lower outer wing panels were glued
If the fit is not perfect, the upper in place, followed by the upper
wings will not fit flush over the wing halves.
undercarriage bays. Soon you will need to decide
The next choice you have is whether you fit the early smaller
in Steps 134 and 135 the wing tail planes (Step 143) or the large
leading edge landing lights. Tempest tail (Step 144). Once
Generally, this light was not fitted again, check your references.
The wing tanks have been fitted here too. to rocket equipped Typhoons, but
Time to work on the undercarriage bays. These narrow

perforated strips will be glued to the ceilings of the bays.
Dont spare the clamps!

The undercarriage ceiling must be
completely flush with the rest of the
internal wing structure to allow the
top wing halves to sit down properly.
Here are the perforated

strips glued to one of the
landing gear pay ceilings.
The upper wing halves and the outer lower The glue has dried. Here is our last look at all
wing sections ready for installation. the internal wing detail before it disappears!

The lower outer
wing panels are
glued in place first.
Fit is excellent.
Fit of the upper wing

halves was excellent too.
The outer wing

supports and spars
work exactly as
advertised.
Sanding sticks were used to

spread the pressure of the
clamps evenly, even over the
open cannon bays.
Detail in the
port side open
cannon bay.
but Airfix has taken

care of that with additional
detail parts for the
undercarriage bays.
We still have a
glimpse of the
leading edge fuel
tank through the
forward wing spar.
Test fit, test

fit, and test fit
again. Patience
is a virtue
when dealing
The cupboard with the wheel
is a bit bare well detail!

BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER The insides of the
The configuration of the nose is fuselage halves
were sprayed with
decided in Step 147. My model was Tamiya AS-12 Bare
built to display the entire engine, Metal Silver straight
from the can. The
so I simply cut off the nose off mating surfaces on
each half of the fuselage forward of the top and bottom
the firewall. If you have chosen to joins have been
masked off so the
display only the top of the engine, lacquer paint does
or to seal up the cowls, dont cut not reduce the
effectiveness of the
this off! glue.
The instructions suggest that
you glue the port fuselage side As my model would
display the entire
to the cockpit framework and the engine, I cut the
port wing, then add the starboard nose off in front
of the firewall. A
fuselage half from the other side. recessed line mas
I took a different approach. been moulded to
the inside of the
I glued the two fuselage halves fuselage to make
together before adding them to the this task easier.
wing. Once the glue had completely
The big Temptest
set, this shell was then clipped over tail inserts, separate
the top of the cockpit framing. The (top) and glued in
place (bottom).
result was an almost perfect fit at
the wing roots, and no gaps at the The simple tail
top and bottom fuselage centreline. wheel bay has been
fitted and painted
The lower rear fuselage is a here too.
separate insert. I test fitted this and
The rear fuselage
found the fit to be perfect. Under area was masked
normal circumstances I would have off and the cockpit
sidewalls painted
simply brushed a fine line of Tamiya black.
At last, the exposed

Hispano cannon barrels
receive some protection
from the long fairings.
Contrary to the instructions, I glued the

fuselage halves together before attaching
them to the cockpit frame and the wings.
Note that this might not work if you have
not cut off the nose!
The fuselage shell was flexed slightly and

clipped over the cockpit framework. Tape
and clamps were once again used to hold
the assemblies in place while the glue dried.

The results were impressive. The lower rear fuselage insert slots into the back of the wing, then can be pressed down
and glued in place.
Construction
Now its starting to
commences with the
look like a Typhoon! framework for the
cockpit and the wing
spars. Just like the
real aeroplane, this
framework forms a
solid core for the entire
aeroplane so it is
absolutely crucial that
the parts are accurately
assembled...
Pretty good fit at the port side wing root. Excellent fit at the starboard side wing root no filler or The slight gap only appeared on my second attempt to glue
sanding here yet. down the lower fuselage insert. The first attempt while dry
fitting suggested a perfect fit.

Extra Thin Liquid Cement around
the joins and it would be done,
but I had not taken a photograph
of the area. I therefore popped
the lower fuselage part off, took
the photograph, and reattached
it. Infuriatingly, now it would not sit
down without narrow a gap at the
front. Not a huge deal though, as a
smear of putty filled the gap. The elevators
feature
The airframe is now together plastic hinges
the model looks like a Typhoon! Stabilizer and and moveable
elevator parts were trim tabs.
However, there are still many little
marked with their
jobs required to complete the part numbers to
model. Some of these involve ensure that I did not
lose track after they
options which cowl covers to were clipped from
fit, what ordnance to install and the sprues.
so forth while others require the
fitting of control surfaces, cannon
bay doors, propeller assemblies,
canopy, undercarriage bay details,
landing legs and wheels.
One of the final jobs is fitting the
upper cockpit sidewalls. These
feature some internal structure
One of the completed horizontal Check out the fit at the stabilizer root wow!
and a few details. The interior was stabilizer assemblies.
painted using the same sequence
of techniques that I employed
earlier for the rest of the cockpit.
The port side upper cockpit panel
(Part 204) was glued in place first.
Next, the gunsight was attached
simultaneously to the top of the
instrument panel and to the newly
attached upper sidewall. Finally,
the gunsight was wedged in place
when the starboard upper sidewall I broke one of the aileron hinges, so I drilled and I lost one of the rudder hinges too, so I improvised!
was glued in place. pinned the part.
The starboard
rudder half prior
to assembly.
A wedge of plastic
must be removed to
allow the flaps to be
glued shut.
Landing flaps. I decided to pose these closed.
The upper cockpit sidewalls Painting makes all

and the gunsight. the difference!

The port side upper cockpit sidewall was glued in place first. It is a shame that a lot of this detail will be hidden inside the small cockpit opening.
The exhaust stacks received

a basic paint job. These
were destined for further
weathering later on.
The exhaust stacks

glued in place.

Airfix has chosen

to tread the entirely
traditional path, achieving
superb detail with plastic
parts alone...
The model with control

surfaces all glued in place.
The open folded

cannon bay covers
were assembled
at this stage.

The gap at the bottom of the fuselage insert was filled with Milliput.
Were ready for masking and painting!

CHAPTER 5 INTERNAL STRUCTURES
BUILDING AND PAINTING

INTERNAL STRUCTURES
A SECOND OPINION
Marcus Nicholls offers his unique insights and describes the
techniques he used to paint and weather the internal framework,
engine and cockpit components of Airfix's 1:24 Hawker Typhoon.
O
ne of the most interest- The wing spars are also very simply airbrushed Tamiya XF-16 Flat
ing aspects of the well detailed parts are require Aluminium directly onto the frame
Hawker Typhoon is its some assembly before they can parts plus all the small, individually
structural design. Unlike be painted. It is tempting to build moulded struts that are positioned
the Spitfire's monocoque airframe, up as much of the internal framing after the main unit has been
Hawker chose a tubular aluminium as possible before painting but formed. The Tamiya acrylic paint
framework for the core internal as the engine firewall needs to creates an excellent, aluminium-
structure and Airfix has depicted be painted black (and sits in the coloured finish but it does require
this extensively. The detail is very middle of it all), this would be very several days to harden to the point
impressive but the complex parts tricky. I therefore chose to spray where the kit parts can be handled
require their moulding seams scrap- each of the main elements prior to safely without the risk of the colour
ing off, which takes quite a while. I slotting them together and I then rubbing off. To further secure the
used a Swann-Morton No.11 blade covered up the cement-marks are finish, I sprayed on a layer of
several in fact until the notice- effectively as possible afterwards. I transparent 'Future' acrylic floor
able lines had been removed. didn't bother to prime the plastic. I polish, which also offered a harder
Tamiya's XF-16 Flat

Aluminium was used
for all the framework;
it airbrushes very well
Here we can when thinned with
see the partially the company's X20A
assembled main Acrylic Thinner but
internal structures does require a couple
laid out, ready to of days drying time.
be painted.
Here, the two

cockpit side-frames
can be seen,
painted aluminium
and with their
acrylic colour-wash
applied.
Close-up on a corner of one of the frames showing the colour-wash
50 Chapter 5 - Internal Structures

surface for the following weathering
processes.
Once the paint and varnish had
hardened, I began to apply some
colour-washes using a slightly
unconventional method. Instead of
the usual oil paint and white spirit
colour-washes, I created a similar
looking 'glaze' made from black and
brown acrylic paint (Vallejo) diluted
with Future acrylic polish. The main
reason for this was speed of appli-
This is the
cation; there are a lot of joints within Typhoon's 'core'
the framework and the acrylic could structure, slotted
be painted on quite quickly, leaving together and ready
to be cemented Liquid cement was applied with
it to settle itself down into the detail together. Note the a fine paintbrush in order to
without the need to 'adjust' it once black firewall. reach all bonding surfaces.
in place, as you must sometimes
do with spirit-based colour-washes.
This created a subtle but quite
effective deepening of the surface
detail and was enough to allow me
to continue with assembly.
The large firewall moulding was
sprayed with Vallejo Surface Primer
Black, which forms a tough, satin
black finish. This paint can be air-
brushed directly from the bottle but
some users prefer to thin is slightly
for better flow through the airbrush.
SCRAPE BEFORE YOU GLUE

When preparing to cement the vari-
ous structural elements together, it
is vital that the paint and varnish is
scraped off the areas where mating
parts will be cemented together or
the bond will be very weak, not to
mention messy, as the liquidised
paint can ooze from the joint. Even Here we can
witness the result
the smallest joints' contact areas of the 'spattering'
must be scraped or the parts will treatment on the
engine bearers,
not bond properly, in fact it's all the created with
more important that they are as thinned enamel
these are the ones that need all the and oil paints.
bonding strength they can get. I

slotted the wing spars and cockpit-
wall frames together then ran Mr
Hobby Cement S into the joints
using a paintbrush; the cement
found its place and bonded the
interlocking elements together well,
forming a strong sub-frame.
The engine bearers then became
subject to additional weathering;
they do support that massive
Quite a lot of the
Napier Sabre after all! I figured oil spattering
there would be a fair amount of landed on the
firewall and
oil and fluid spills and drips from this was later
servicing plus a little heat discol- toned down
ouration, although to be honest I'm with a localised
airbrushing of
not sure if aluminium is affected matt black.
in this way. I took a little Humbrol

CHAPTER 5 Internal Structures
When preparing to cement the

various structural elements together,
it is vital that the paint and varnish
is scraped off the areas where mating
parts will be cemented together...
Games Workshop's
Enamel 85 Coal Black, 46 Matt 'Citadel Necron
Orange plus some brown and black Compound' is a
paste-like material
oil paints and diluted them heavily with very fine
using cigarette lighter fluid. This is metallic-effect
a very light spirit than evaporates grain.
almost immediately, leaving the col-

our just where you put it and does
not attack the painted finish at all,
making it a very useful material for
localised colour-washes. I flicked
the brown and yellowish liquid onto
the engine bearers with a cut-down To prepare for dry-brushing, a blob of the Compound The brush was then rubbed onto the card to
was deposited on piece of card and a clean, dry remove much of the paint before it was applied
paint brush to create a very messy brush dipped in. to the model.
finish which would be 'adjusted'
later on using dry-brushing, as we Here we can see
will see. the almost dry
Once this effect had cured, I brush being flicked
over the engine
dry-brushed the treated areas bearers and almost
to restore a little order, as the immediately, the
spattered effect
splattering did look very messy starts to tone
indeed. To achieve this, I used a down. Particular
new product (new to me at least), attention was paid
to the junctions of
namely Games Workshop's 'Citadel tubular sections
Necron Compound', which is very and the moulded
rivets in these
finely grained aluminium paint with areas. The Citadel
an almost paste-like consistency, material has an
impressively long
rather like printers ink, but using linger time, not
an acrylic base. It dry-brushes drying too quickly
brilliantly and it was used to lift and allowing one
to work over larger
the raised details on the engine areas with one
bearers from my mucky, splattery brush-load.

One element of the framework is moulded into the cockpit-side of the firewall and the author Thinned Tamiya XF-16 was then airbrushed on to create the correct effect, taking care to
forgot to paint it aluminium! So, it was masked off with Tamiya masking tape in-situ. keep overspray to a minimum.
Berol discontinued their superb 'Karismacolor' colouring pencils some years ago and this is all that's left of the author's silver pencil! It was used to create metallic highlights on the upper
edges of the framing.
weathering effect.
For many years, I have used a
silver 'Karismacolor' colouring pencil
to add the brightest highlights to
kit parts and it was only recently
(when trying to buy a couple of
new ones) that I discovered that
Berol discontinued them several
years ago! So, I am stuck with the
stub of a pencil that has had its
tip glued back in several times...
I employed this useful veteran of
many models to add some bright,
metallic highlights to the framework
and other parts and no doubt it will
The pilot's foot
be used again on other areas of the rests also received
Typhoon as the project progresses. metallic highlights
along their
And this is about as far as I got with edges using the
the internal structures, so let's take Karismacolor silver
a look at the pilot's seat now. pencil.

Here we see the

pilot's seat during
construction with
just one side panel
left to go on. Detail
is exemplary.
The assembled seat showing where a little thinned filler was applied to seal some joints.
PILOT'S SEAT The excellent padding detail can be appreciated here.
Airfix provides an excellent replica
of the seat for this kit and it builds Once a layer of black Using a coffee stirrer
up from just four main parts; seat acrylic had been as a handle (the seat is
applied, the seat pad attached with Blu-Tack),
back, bucket and two side panels. was hand-painted the dust effect was
The quilted back-padding is mould- using Vallejo Acrylics applied to the raised
ed (and very well done it is too) into 'Canvas', highlighted detail using Humbrol
and shaded to bring Enamel 234.
the seat back; the squab, if you do out the detail.
not intend to fit the pilot figure, is a
separate component. The four main
mouldings fitted together well and
just needed a light application of
liquefied filler (Holts Cataloy Knifing
Putty, diluted with liquid cement) to
seal the joints between them.
The seat was given two good
layers of Vallejo Surface Primer
Black. Some sources say the seat
should be in grey or interior green, I figured that the cockpit of a of a dust build-up in the corners
but I think black is also a suitable fighter aircraft in the field (rough of the seat and on its outer edges,
colour. The seat pads were painted airstrips in Normandy etc.) would along the tops of the structural
with a base colour of Vallejo 'Panzer accumulate quite a bit of dust from lips where the dust might settle.
Aces' Canvas (314), highlighted the pilot's uniform and boots as This was accomplished painting
with Vallejo 'Panzer Aces' Highlight he clambered in and out of the Humbrol Enamel 234 Dark Flesh
Japan Tkcr (332). Colour washes cockpit and the seat is always the which is actually a rather good
of darkened shades of the base first place he would plant his foot dust colour into the interstices of
colour were applied to enhance the as he boarded his machine prior, the seat. The effect was 'trimmed'
surface detail. to a sortie. I therefore added a bit with more lighter fluid to feather the
The Humbrol paint

was also applied
to the inner edges
of the seat bucket,
its edges feathered
out using cigarette
lighter fluid as a
solvent.
'Citadel Necron
Compound was dry-
brushed around the edges
of the metallic parts to
create worn highlights.

edges of the paint. Citadel Necron
Compound was again dry-brushed
along the edges of the seat to sug-
gest areas of extreme wear, where
the black paint had worn right down
to the aluminium, but this effect
must be kept subtle or it can look a
little ridiculous.
RB Productions recently released
a 1:24 Sutton harness (QS/QL/QP
types) using die-cut paper for the
webbing and photo-etched nickel- RB Productions new
steel for the buckles. It will require 1:24 Sutton harness
(QS/QL/QP types)
some extremely careful assembly with pre-cut card
but offers the best possible solution for the webbing and
to the creation of a realistic harness photo-etched metal
for the buckles and
for this kit. hardware
Airfix provides a
two-part instrument
INSTRUMENT PANEL panel, with the facia
The instrument panel is always a in grey plastic and
the dial-face panel Test fitting the two parts together paid
focal point of any model. I have to in clear, fitting in off as the fit was quite tight. This was
remedied by carefully opening out the dial
admit it's one of the very first parts I from behind. Detail
apertures in the front panel from the rear
here is superb and
seek when inspecting the contents appears to be very face until the clear part dropped in easily.
of a new aircraft kit box as it can accurate.
be an accurate indicator of the
model's overall quality; if the panel
looks well detailed and accurate,
chances are the rest of the kit will
be of a equivalent standard. That's
my theory at least. Airfix provides a
two-part panel for the Typhoon and
it looks excellent, with very scale-
like raised bezels, knobs and other
details moulded into the fascias
front surface. The clear rear insert
appears to be a good idea at first,
as one might reasonably assume
the dial decals could be applied
(facing forward) to its rear face to
create the effect of clear dial lenses,
but in practice the clear plastic
The large size of the
part is much too thick and uneven instrument panel
for this to happen and I ended up can be appreciated
applying the decals to the front here; this is a 1:24
kit after all!
of each dial face, sealing them in

with Future polish once dry. This
was a slight disappointment and
in hindsight I would have cut out
some thin acetate plates to replace
the clear moulding. The final effect
is perfectly adequate however and
the panel looks fantastic once
complete.
The kit comes with all of the side
consoles too. These were painted
in the same way as the main panel.
The trim wheel was finished with
Once a base coat
varying shades of brown to closely of Vallejo Surface
replicate the Bakelite material of Primer Black had
An orange colour was
been sprayed on,
the original component. Airscale the dials that would
mixed up and carefully
applied over the white
also produces a sheet of WW2 RAF have coloured
bezel edges.
cockpit placards and some were bezels were
undercoated with
used (some trimmed to fit) on the matt white.
main and side panels.
The kit's decal sheet provides decals for the dials but for an Thanks to the thickness of the clear plastic, plus its uneven Here we see the completed facia panel which also
added touch of refinement, Airscale's WW2 RAF dial decals surface, the dial decals had to be applied to the front of received a little of the same dust treatment that was used
were used instead. each dial face instead of the rear as originally planned. on the seat.
The side consoles, throttle

and 'Bakelite' trim wheel
await installation.
The finished instrument panel with

clear rear insert fitted. The Airscale
decals look superb.

The basic engine Close-up view of a cylinder head showing the excellent detail, although some aftermarket resin bolt-heads
NAPIER SABRE ENGINE parts, laid out prior wouldn't go amiss here.
to assembly. A
Like the instrument panel, the simple structure
Typhoon's mighty Napier Sabre for an immensely
engine is a key focal point of the complicated engine
model and Airfix have done a
in reality!
The Typhoons mighty
splendid job of it in this kit. It's not Napier Sabre engine is a key
perfect of course; the engine block
and cylinder heads could use some
focal point of the model and
additional bolt heads and fine Airfix have done a splendid
details and there's plenty of cabling job of it in this kit...
and plumbing that needs adding
but overall, it's an impressive effort
that would be a crime to cover
up with cowlings. Like the cockpit
framing, cleaning up the ignition
harnesses took ages there's just
such a long mould seam but
it's an essential task if you intend
to show off your engine, because
there is nothing uglier than a
missed moulding seam on a detail
part. You'll probably find one now,
on my model.
The kit's instructions indicate
the optional use of a small
electric motor to spin the prop, if
so desired, although none was
provided in the pre-production
kits that were used for this book.
The slim unit fits inside the engine
block and would be connected to
a battery, hidden somewhere within The kit's
the model. I rather like this feature, instructions show
the installation of a
so perhaps I'll buy myself a produc- small electric motor
tion kit and build another with a to spin the prop, if
so desired.
spinning propeller! As it was, I fitted
the prop shaft so it would rotate; it
would be painted in a suitable steel
colour later on.
The fit of parts for the engine was
generally excellent and just a few
fillets of thinned putty were applied
in strategic positions to seal some
hairline gaps. The massive super-
charger is very well detailed and
mounts positively to the rear of the
powerplant. The junctions where

its four compressed-air pipes (?) fit
to the corresponding ducts on the
engine were wrapped with narrow
strips of plastic card to emulate the
unions of the real thing; these are
much more complex in reality but it
was better than nothing.
Once again, I used Vallejo black
primer to undercoat the engine
block as the real thing was painted
in a rather dull overall black. As
I progress with this model (the Here we see the massive supercharger
finished thing will appear within and its peripheral components. Perfect
alignment to the engine block is
one of ADH Publishings model assured thanks to solidly moulded,
magazines) I will add further metal- cruciform lug that runs through the
centre of the various elements.
lic finishes to the engine's ancillary The supercharge is
parts and this will create a more sturdily engineered
complex, visually engaging appear- and sports some
fine surface detail.
ance without straying too far from
the bounds of accuracy.
The ignition harnesses were
sprayed with Alclad II Aluminum
and once dry, given an acrylic
colour-wash using a yellow-brown
shade (diluted with Future) to
replicate the real thing's finish as
closely as possible. The short
ignition cables were braided steel
in reality so they were touched in
with a mixture of Humbrol Metalcote
Aluminium and matt white to create
a semi-metallic finish.
The fit of parts
With the internal framing, engine, here is good and a
instrument panel, seat and other little thinned putty
was painted over
interior components now prepared, some joint lines for
I was well into the build of this a perfectly sealed
magnificent new production from surface.
Airfix, and I have enjoyed every
minute of it so far. As mentioned
previously, this model will appear
in its completed form in one of
ADH Publishing's scale modelling
magazines so please keep an eye
out for it at www.adhpublishing.com
Vallejo Surface Primer Black was applied over the

whole engine block. In reality, the finish would have
had more of a sheen to it, but the satin finish of the
model paint seemed more in-scale.

At this stage, the
engine was test-
fitted to its bearers
to make sure that
paint build-up
wouldn't cause
problems later on.
A light application of a 'dust-wash' using Humbrol Enamel 234 (thinned with

lighter fluid) added a mild touch of weathering.
The ignition harnesses were sprayed

with Alclad II Aluminum and then
given an acrylic colour-wash to add a
little colour and to deepen the detail.
Here we see the

engine block with some
ancillary parts fitted,
ready for the next stage
of construction.

CHAPTER 6 DETAILING, PAINTING AND WEATHERING
DETAILING, PAINTING
AND WEATHERING
Chris Wauchop adds some
extra detail before painting and
weathering the big Airfix 1:24
scale Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib.
60 Chapter 6 - Detailing, Painting and Weathering

G
A
fter I had finished basic
construction of the Airfix
Typhoon, I handed it
over to master modeller
Chris Wauchop for painting and
weathering. I had never seen Chris
so eager to start a paint job not
surprising as the Typhoon is one
of Chriss favourite aircraft and that
the big Airfix kit provides an expan-
sive canvas for his talent.
The model was passed on to
Chris as it was seen at the end
of Chapter 4. The airframe was
assembled, but the propeller and
undercarriage assemblies had not
yet been added. Ordnance was still
on the sprues too.
Chris now takes up the story:

CHAPTER 6 Detailing, Painting and Weathering
ADDING DETAIL
Before painting the model I added
some details.
The first detail added
was a more realistic
Rockets representation of
the rocket guide rail
The first enhancement was a more attachments or saddle
realistic representation of the rocket plates. After searching
guide rail attachments or saddle online, Chris found
this shot of a couple of
plates. A. Following a few damaged but basically
After searching the net I found a abortive attempts intact brackets. This
a very acceptable photo would be the main
photograph of a couple of damaged result was achieved reference in trying to
but basically intact brackets. This by carefully reproduce these rather
bending .010 x .040 complex items.
photo would be my main reference Evergreen plastic
in trying to reproduce these rather strip to the desired
complex items. shape.
A. B.
Following a few abortive B. After removing
attempts, a very acceptable result the solid kit saddle
plates, the scratch-
was achieved by carefully bending built items were
.010 x .040 Evergreen plastic strip glued in place.
Two lengths of
to the desired shape. I can't really the plastic strip
give precise measurements here, were now glued
as I made the first bracket by eye between the top of
the bracket halves
and used it as a template to make and to the top of the
the next thirty! rocket tube.
After removal of the solid kit C. The pig tails C. D.
saddle plates, the scratch-built were made by
items were glued in place. Two cutting short lengths
of the appropriate
lengths of the plastic strip were diameter plastic
now glued between the top of the rods and gluing
them together
bracket halves and to the top of the to represent the
rocket tube. This is not an entirely plugs. Once dry,
a locating hole
accurate representation of this key was drilled in the
feature but it is a lot better than the narrow end of each
kit offering. plug and a length
of fine (.355mm)
The rear of each rocket featured solder wire was
When the two halves of the rocket rails
a Weak Link Lead. Better known superglued in place.
were glued together it was obvious that
as the 'pig tail', this feature seems D. A hole was
the uneven tops of the rails were going to
need a bit of attention. This unevenness
to have been entirely overlooked drilled in the rear
was flattened out by gluing a strip of
by Airfix but is relatively simple to end of each rocket
.020 plastic strip over the join and when
and, being careful
replicate. I did this by cutting short really dry, was sanded flat. On careful
to keep them all
examination of my reference Chris
lengths of the appropriate diam- the same length,
noticed that the front end of the Mk 1b rail
the pig tails were
eter plastic rods and gluing them glued in place.
was finished with a tapered cap. This was
added by gluing half round .035 plastic
together to represent the plugs. According to
rod to the front of each rail and cutting
reference photos,
Once dry a locating hole was drilled the length of these
the ends at 45 degrees.
in the narrow end of each plug and leads did vary a bit
a length of fine (.355mm) solder so its just a matter
of finding one
wire was superglued in place. youre happy with
A hole was then drilled in the and using it as your
guide.
rear end of each rocket and, being
careful to keep them all the same
length, the 'pig tails' were glued
in place. According to reference
photos, the length of these leads
did vary a bit so it's just a matter of
finding one you're happy with and
using it as your guide.
The rocket launch rails were the
next items that needed work. Once
the two halves were glued together,
This shot shows
it was obvious that the uneven tops the complete rocket
of the rails were going to need a bit dry-fitted to the
finished launch rail.
of attention. This unevenness was

G
flattened out by gluing a strip of All eight rockets
.020 plastic strip over the join and complete and
waiting to be
when really dry, was sanded flat. attached to their
On careful examination of my refer- launch rails. They
have been painted
ence, I noticed that the front end with a 50/50 mix of
of the Mk 1b rail was finished with Gunze Sangyo H 52
a tapered cap. This was added by Olive Drab and H
330 Dark Green with
gluing half round .035 plastic rod to the saddle plates
the front of each rail and cutting the a slightly darker
shade of the same.
ends at 45 degrees. All the scratches
All eight rockets complete were and dirty scuff
painted with a 50/50 mix of Gunze marks were applied
with a very sharp
Sangyo H 52 Olive Drab and H 330 6B graphite pencil
Dark Green with the saddle plates a and a Derwent
Brown Ochre
slightly darker shade of the same. colouring pencil
All the scratches and dirty scuff (also very sharp).
The yellow I.D.
marks were applied with a very rings on the nose
heavy dusting around the edges end and its intake end was filed to
sharp 6B graphite pencil and a tips were roughly with Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow. a tapered point.
Derwent Brown Ochre colouring hand-painted as A brass wire pin was then
they seemed to be
pencil (also very sharp). The yellow in reality. FINISHING TOUCHES cemented into the top of its vertical
I.D. rings on the nose tips were After the addition of a couple of arm and when this pin was glued
roughly hand-painted as they small details, i.e. a pivot nut and a into the corresponding hole that
seemed to be in reality. bleed valve, the tail wheel received I had drilled into the lower wing
basically the same paint job as the locating point, it gave the lateral
UNDERCARRIAGE DETAILS The kits moulded-
main wheels. strength needed for this otherwise
The kits moulded-on brake lines on brake lines The next items to become the very shallow glue join. The footstep
were removed and replaced with were removed focus of my attention were the pitot then received a new cover plate
and replaced with
scratch-built items made from plas- scratch-built items tube and the boarding footstep. The and handle made with .010 plastic
tic rod bent to shape and fine wire. made with plastic pitot tube had a hole drilled in either strip and fine brass wire.
rod bent to shape
The inner and outer gear doors and fine wire.
were painted and weathered prior
The inner and
to installation. The inner door's outer gear doors
pushrod broke away from its painted, weathered
hydraulic cylinder when this and its and ready for
installation. The
opposite part were being removed plastic pushrods
from the sprue. The plastic pushro- were replaced with
nickel-plated brass
ds were replaced with nickel-plated wire of the same
brass wire of the same length length and diameter,
and diameter, which gave a much which gave a much
stronger and more
stronger and more satisfying result. satisfying result.
The main undercarriage wheel
hubs were painted with Alclad The main wheel hubs were painted with Alclad ALC
101 Aluminum. A thin wash of Tamiya X-18 Semi-
ALC 101 Aluminum. A thin wash of gloss Black was then carefully painted in and around
Tamiya X-18 Semi-gloss Black was the raised and recessed detail. A mix of 80% Tamiya
XF-1 Flat Black and 20% XF-64 Red Brown was then
then carefully painted in and around brush painted around the hub rim just wide enough
the raised and recessed detail. A to allow me to airbrush, using the same colour, the
rest of the tyre and not getting too much overspray.
mix of 80% Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black The white tyre slip markers were then applied using
and 20% XF-64 Red Brown was a very fine brush. An extremely thin mix of the red/
then brush painted around the hub brown was then loaded in the airbrush and some
careful shading was sprayed around the hub detail.
rim just wide enough to allow me to Although not seen in this shot the tyres did receive
airbrush, using the same colour, the a fairly heavy dusting around the edges with Tamiya
XF-59 Desert Yellow.
rest of the tyre and not getting too After the addition
much overspray. of a couple of small
The pitot tube had a hole
details, i.e. a pivot
The white tyre slip markers were drilled in either end and its
nut and a bleed
intake end was filed to a
applied using a very fine brush. In valve, the tail
tapered point. A brass wire
wheel received
reality these markers were usually basically the
pin was then cemented
into the top of its vertical
hand painted so a few rough edges same paint job
arm and when this pin
as the main
can only add to the authenticity! was glued into the
An extremely thin mix of the red/ corresponding hole that I
had drilled into the lower
brown was then loaded in the wing locating point. The
airbrush and some careful shading footstep then received a
new cover plate and handle
was sprayed around the hub detail. made with .010 plastic strip
Finally, the tyres received a fairly and fine brass wire.

PAINTING AND
WEATHERING
With the details complete, painting
of the main airframe could begin.
PAINTING
Paints were a combination of
Tamiya and Gunze-Sangyo acrylics,
all applied with my trusty Aztek
A470 airbrush fitted with the fine
tan-coloured tip. The three main camouflage colours plus
The paints I used for the Day the black/grey wing-walks have been
applied in this shot. The tape on the
Fighter Scheme were Tamiya XF-19 starboard wing is the start of the masking
Sky Grey for the undersurfaces and for the invasion stripes. The black/
grey wing walk strips seen in this shot
Gunze Sangyo H75 Dark Seagray were later widened by another couple
and H330 Dark Green for the upper of millimetres as per some clearer
reference photos found after the fact.
surfaces.
Gunze actually describe H330
Dark Green as BS381C/641 for use
on modern RAF aircraft but in my
humble opinion this slightly richer
green is a much better match for
the WWII colour than their recom-
mended H73.
The hard demarcation line
between the upper and lower-
surface colours was masked using
Tamiya masking tape while the
dark green was carefully sprayed
freehand following faint guidelines
I had drawn with a graphite pencil.
From the photographic evidence
that I have seen of these aircraft
the green pattern was sprayed
over the Dark Sea grey with a tight,
slightly soft edge and although
there were designated guidelines
for the demarcation of these two The invasion stripes, tail band and
colours the interpretation of these the area behind cockpit headrest
were now masked and sprayed.
guidelines did vary quite a bit from
aircraft to aircraft.
The invasion stripes, tail band and
the area behind cockpit headrest
were now masked and sprayed. The
actual width of the D-Day stripes
Chris decided to
was supposed to be 18 inches (45.7 give the location
cm) but I think that in the haste of for the fuselage
their application this did vary a bit. roundels a more
even background
Anyway by my calculation, reducing by masking and
them to 1:24 scale would make spaying a white
disc over the black
them about 3/4" (19mm) wide. And invasion stripe. Also
that goes for tail band as well! in this shot can be
seen the beginning
Wary of any decal transparency of the weathering
I decided to give the location of process - scratches
the fuselage roundels a more done with a silver
pencil and airbrush
even background by masking and shading of panel
spaying a white disc over the black lines and exhaust
stains using a very
invasion stripe. This was probably mix of Tamiya XF-1
not necessary, but better to be safe Flat Black and
than sorry. XF-64 Red Brown.

G
The weathering process also interesting scheme would be PR-M, the unique aircraft markings were
The camouflage
continued at this stage with lots of paints are Tamiya Serial No. MN131, A Typhoon Mk.IB sourced from the Xtradecal sheet,
scratches done with a silver pencil XF-19 Sky Grey for attached to 609 Sqn, 123 Wing, except the rough white PRs,
the undersurfaces
and airbrush shading of panel lines and Gunze Sangyo
2 TAF, on Thorney Island with full which looked much smaller than
and exhaust stains using a very H75 Dark Seagray D-Day stripes and a blue spinner. the markings on the real aircraft.
mix of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black and and H330 Dark Most references quote this air- Instead, these were cobbled
Green for the upper
XF-64 Red Brown. surfaces. craft as having a three-bladed pro- together from other white markings
peller, and the serial number seems on the Xtradecal sheet.
DECALS AND COMPLETION to support this, but a photograph The final finish was a coat of
When painting commenced we still on page 136 of Christopher Shores Testors Model Master ACRYL Flat
had not received the kit decals, and Chris Thomas excellent book, Clear. I was really pleased with this,
but fortunately Xtradecal had just 2nd Tactical Air Force Volume 1 as it imparted the hint of sheen,
released their after market decals Spartan to Normandy June 1943 especially on the high points of the
for the Airfix Typhoon, Item No. to June 1944, seems to show the oil canned surfaces of the airframe.
X24003 Hawker Typhoon Mk 1b. The exposed engine aircraft with a four-bladed propeller. With the paint job complete, the
After joint discussion, we had results in a very Armed with this photo reference, undercarriage, wheels, propeller
busy appearance.
already decided that the most we decided to go with the kits four- assembly and rockets were glued
bladed prop. in place. A whip antenna was also
As fate would have it, an early attached to the fuselage spine aft
issue of the kit decals turned up of the cockpit. This was simply cut
just as I was completing the paint from fine wire.
job. This worked out well, as I could At last the big model was sitting
use the kits national markings and on its wheels and finished.
some of the stencil markings. All Or was it?

CHAPTER 6 Detailing, Painting and Weathering
A. B.
C. D.
A. Contrary to
most references,
we chose the four-
bladed propeller
assembly based
on a photo in
Christopher Shores
and Chris Thomas
excellent book, 2nd
Tactical Air Force
E. F. Volume 1 Spartan
to Normandy June
1943 to June 1944
B. Engine detail is
straight from the
box. Reference
photos show many
Typhoons with this
pattern of exhaust
staining on the
stacks with the pale
colour concentrated
at the front.
C. A view from
the top.
D. The few coloured

G. I.
details lend some
variation to the
black and silver of
the engine bay.
E. The black
walkway decal
was widened by
airbrushing.
F. The combination
of raised rivets and
recessed surface
features may be
H. appreciated here.
G. The handholds
and footholds may
be posed open or
closed.
H. The stirrup
pilots step, glued
into the lowered
position.
I. The bubble top

canopy is thin and
free from distortion.

g
J. K.
L. N.
J. Chris carefully
reproduced
the unusual
demarcation of the
forward invasion
stripe, and the
overpainting of the
port side fuselage
M. roundel.
K. The white PR
was cobbled
together from white
decal pieces.
L. The Ms on the
other side were the
right size.
M. Detail of the
O. P. kit tail wheel and
the chunky but
authentic surface
textures on the
lower empennage.
N. Chris painted the

inside of the cannon
bay doors.
O. Careful
weathering has
helped create an
impressive result.
P. Chris scribed a
Q. R. S. line around each of
the cannon fairings
to match reference
photos.
Q. The starboard
navigation light.
R. The kit wheels

are subtly bulged
and flattened.
Note the white tyre
alignment marks.
T. U. S. The
undercarriage
doors have been
weathered to match
the undersurface of
the model.
T. Rockets in place
with pig tails
dangling!
U. A view of the
rockets from
underneath the
wings.

The model was initially

finished with all the engine
and cannon bay detail
exposed.

G
The whip antenna was cut

from a length of fine wire.
The hard demarcation

line between the upper
and lower-surface colours
was masked using Tamiya
masking tape while the
dark green was carefully
sprayed freehand...
Port side profile of this powerful ground attack aircraft.

CLOSING UP
From the first time that Chris saw As it turned out, Chris said it was
the model in the box he said that not a very difficult job. He simply
hed prefer to see it with the cowl- had to chop away much of the pro-
ings in place, displaying the rugged truding engine detail from the top
lines of the Typhoon to their best and sides of the engine, then the
advantage. cowling and wing root panels could
Even when he picked up the be glued in place. There were a
assembled model, he said that he few gaps that had to be filled with
would find out whether the cowlings Milliput White Epoxy Putty, but then
would fit over the engine detail with the cowlings were touched up and
some modification. weathered to match the rest of the
As it turns out, they dont. The airframe.
model is designed to be built with Chris also sealed the port wing
engine detail displayed, or the cannon bay using the one-piece
engine cowlings in place; but will closed door supplied in the kit.
not allow the cowls to be taken on Once again, when the closed
and off. panel was glued in place, the paint Now you see it, now you
dont! Chris sealed the
Chris was undeterred. We had was touched up to match the sur- engine cowlings and the
earlier agreed that he would keep rounding area. The section of wing port side cannon bay.
this model and house it in his large roundel on the cannon bay door
display cabinet. After I had photo- was cut from Xtradecal solid RAF
graphed the model, Chris told me Roundel Red (Item No. XTF02) and
he would try to modify the kit and RAF Roundel Blue (XF01) decal
glue the cowlings in place. using an Olfa circle cutter.
Chris reported
that the fit was
pretty good, with
just a little Milliput
required to fill some
gaps around the
wing root fairings.
The wing cannon

bay was also
sealed.

G
Protruding details had to be

chopped off the engine to
allow the cowlings to fit. The
cowlings were then glued
in place.

The clean lines of the buttoned-up

Tiffie may be appreciated here.
MODELSPEC
Airfixs 1:24 scale Typhoon
Airfix 1:24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.IB.
Kit No. AX19002
is a truly impressive model...
Tools and Accessories Used:
Lots of Tamiya masking tape
Evergreen 102 plastic strip .010 x
.040 and various size plastic rod
XTRADECAL X24003 Hawker
Typhoon Mk 1b
XTRADECAL Item No. XTF01 - RAF
Roundel Blue
XTRADECAL Item No. XTF02 - RAF
Roundel Red
Airscale Item No. AS24 - RAFGeneric
WWII RAF Instrument Dial Decals
Paints and Finishing Products Used:

Gunze Sangyo Acrylics H75 Dark
Seagray, H330 Dark Green, H74 Sky
(Duck Egg Green)
Tamiya Acrylics XF-19 Sky Grey,
XF-1 Flat Black, XF-2 Flat White, XF-64
Red Brown
Alclad II Lacquer - Aluminum ALC 101
Model Master ACRYL 4636/Flat Clear

G
The section of upper wing

roundel on the port wing
cannon bay was replaced
with solid colour decal cut
using an Olfa circle cutter.
The beast complete. Airfixs 1:24 scale

Typhoon is a truly impressive model.

APPENDIX
AFTERMARKET ACCESSORIES
DECALS:
Xtradecal Item No. X24003 Hawker Typhoon Mk.1b
Xtradecal Item No. XTF01 RAF Dull Roundel Blue WWII (solid colour decal)
Xtradecal Item No. XTF02 RAF Dull Roundel Red WWII (solid colour decal)
Available from Hannants www.hannants.co.uk
Airscale Item No. AS24 TIFF Cockpit Instrument Decals Hawker Typhoon Mk.IB
Available from airscales website www.airscale.co.uk
PHOTO-ETCHED UPDATES:
RB Productions Item No. RB-P2006 1/24 Sutton QS / QL / QP Harness
REFERENCES
SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY:
The Hawker Typhoon: by Richard A. Franks
A Complete Guide to the RAFs Valiant Wings Publications
Classic Ground Attack Fighter Airframe and Miniature No.2
ISBN 9780956719812
2ND TACTICAL AIR FORCE Vol. 1, by Christopher Shores and Chris Thomas
Spartan to Normandy Air War Classics, Ian Allan Publishing
ISBN 1 903223 40 7
Breakout to Bodenplatte Air War Classics, Ian Allan Publishing
ISBN 1 903223 40 7
From the Rhine to Victory Air War Classics, Ian Allan Publishing
ISBN 1 903223 60 1
Squadrons, Camouflage and Markings, Air War Classics, Ian Allan Publishing
Weapons and Tactics 1943-1945 ISBN 1 906537 01 2
HAWKER TYPHOON/TEMPEST by Yuzawa, Yutaka (ed)
Famous Airplanes of the World No. 63
ISBN 4-89319-060-1
THE HAWKER TYPHOON AND TEMPEST by Francis K. Mason
Aston Publications 1988
ISBN 0-946627-19-3
THE HAWKER TYPHOON, TEMPEST by Kev Darling
AND SEA FURY Motorbooks International
ISBN 1861266200
TYPHOON/TEMPEST IN ACTION by Jerry Scutts,
Squadron/Signal publication No 102
ISBN 0-897447-232-2
TYPHOON AND TEMPEST ACES OF by Chris Thomas,
WORLD WAR 2 Osprey Aircraft of the Aces, No 27
ISBN 1-85532-779-1
TYPHOON AND TEMPEST: by Hugh A. Halliday
The Canadian Story ISBN: 0-921022-06-9
WEBSITES:
HyperScale http://www.hyperscale.com
74 Appendix
p 74 Appendices TyphoonBG.indd 74 12/08/2014 13:51

The HOW TO BUILD... series
pre-production cover
Visit www.adhbooks.com
p 75 AdvertIBC Typhoon.indd 8 02/07/2014 10:08
Airfix has undoubtedly
delivered a true scale
classic for our time.
Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib

The Hawker Typhoon was constantly improved over its
period of wartime service. The initial car door canopy
offered only limited rearward vision so this was eventually
replaced with a clear-vision sliding bubble canopy.
By pilot accounts, the Typhoon was a solid gun platform,

fast at low altitudes and impressively powerful, although
controls were heavy at high speed.
Despite proving unsuitable as a pure fighter, the Typhoon

lives on in legend thanks to its remarkable ground attack
record against Axis airfields, shipping, vehicles and trains.
Airfixs brand new 1:24 scale Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib

is an outstanding model.
Surface texture is positively daring with its rippled oilcan effect

and the combination of raised and recessed rivets. Detail is
dense, just as it was on the original aircraft. If the modeller
wishes to display the engine or the wing cannon bays, Airfix
offers a number of options that do not compromise scale or
detail. Even more remarkable is that all of this detail is delivered
in injection-moulded plastic alone.
Airfix has undoubtedly delivered a true scale classic for our time.
This new book features an exhaustive step-by-step guide to

building this remarkable model with contributions from Brett
Green, Marcus Nicholls and Chris Wauchop.
Analysis of the 1:72 Airfix Typhoon, 1:48 Hasegawa kits and the
1:32 scale multimedia offering from MDC are also included.
Hundreds of construction photos, reference images, a museum

walk around, and how to get the very best from your big Typhoon
kit a must have before you build your model!
Published by:
ADH Publishing Ltd., Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX
Telephone: 44 (0) 1525 222573 Fax: 44 (0) 1525 222574
Website: www.adhpublishing.com
p 76 BackCover TyphoonBG.indd 1 02/07/2014 10:12

Airfix 1-24 Hawker Typhoon MK - LB

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Airfix 1-24 Hawker Typhoon MK - LB

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

HOW TO

BUILD... AIRFIX 1:24

FEATURING THE WORK OF

From the publishers of Tamiya Model Magazine International,

p 01 Cover TyphoonBG.indd 1 02/07/2014 09:06

2 How to Build... - Airfix 1:24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib

p 02-03 Contents TyphoonBG.indd 2 02/07/2014 09:07

First Published in the United Kingdom by:

How to Build... Tamiyas 1:32 F4U-1 Corsair 3

p 02-03 Contents TyphoonBG.indd 3 02/07/2014 09:07

p 04-05 Background TyphoonBG.indd 4 02/07/2014 09:09

Acknowledgement: Detail view of the

How to Build... Airfix 1:24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib 5

p 04-05 Background TyphoonBG.indd 5 02/07/2014 09:09

6 Chapter 1 - Hawker Typhoon Close Up

p 06-11 Chapter 1 TyphoonBG.indd 6 02/07/2014 09:10

The nose of the

Note the quite

Note the rough

How to Build... Airfix 1:24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib 7

p 06-11 Chapter 1 TyphoonBG.indd 7 02/07/2014 09:10

The big radiator

The radiator flap

The back of the

8 Chapter 1 - Hawker Typhoon Close Up

p 06-11 Chapter 1 TyphoonBG.indd 8 02/07/2014 09:10

Not the greatest

One of the main

The outer view

How to Build... Airfix 1:24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib 9

p 06-11 Chapter 1 TyphoonBG.indd 9 02/07/2014 09:10

Port wheel well

10 Chapter 1 - Hawker Typhoon Close Up

p 06-11 Chapter 1 TyphoonBG.indd 10 02/07/2014 09:10

Looking down into

Port side console

The gun sight

The rear of the

How to Build... Airfix 1:24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib 11

p 06-11 Chapter 1 TyphoonBG.indd 11 02/07/2014 09:10

HAWKER TYPHOON IN OTHER SCALES

Hawker Typhoon in 1:72 Scale

12 Chapter 2 - Hawker Typhoon in Other Scales

p 12-17 Chapter 2 TyphoonBG.indd 12 02/07/2014 09:12

How to Build... Airfix 1:24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib 13

p 12-17 Chapter 2 TyphoonBG.indd 13 02/07/2014 09:13

wells mount to the wing underside, some refinement, as it is perhaps a

14 Chapter 2 - Hawker Typhoon in Other Scales

p 12-17 Chapter 2 TyphoonBG.indd 14 02/07/2014 09:12

Note the long

HAWKER TYPHOON IN 1:48 SCALE fuselage side before

Hasegawa produces the best 1:48 scale still plenty of filling

Hawker Typhoon kits available today.

How to Build... Airfix 1:24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib 15

p 12-17 Chapter 2 TyphoonBG.indd 15 02/07/2014 09:12

The car door

All this work delivers

inserts with the contours of the fuse- CONCLUSION

Markings are from

p 12-17 Chapter 2 TyphoonBG.indd 16 02/07/2014 09:12

HAWKER TYPHOON IN 1:32 SCALE

How to Build... Airfix 1:24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib 17

p 12-17 Chapter 2 TyphoonBG.indd 17 02/07/2014 09:12