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Canada
SURFERS OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA:
structures of Identity
By
Wallace W. Zane
Department of Anthropology
McGill university, Montreal
March 1992
1
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ISBN 0-315-74710-2
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Abstract
Surfers of Southern California: structures of identity
By Wallace W. Zane
et hors de l'eau.
reste stable
Acknowledgments
1
Table of Contents
J
1
CHAPTER 1: Introduc~ion
The Problem
How is identity created and maintained in an activity-
based subculture symbolically important to its parent
culture? In short, what makes a surfer a surfer? How is
surfer identity affected by the larger American culture?
This thesis will examine the identity of surfers located in
Southern California and forming cohesive units of
communication in small and large groups. It will look at
identity derived from place and history, from association
with other surfers, and from participation in the surf
economy. It will look at the derivation of personal
identity as a surfer from a number of sources as well as
shared surfer identity in the form of surfer institutions.
The thesis will try to determine what the popularization of
surfer images by the national media means to local surfer
identity. Finally, the thesis will examine the social
structures associated with surfers, showing how identity is
derived from the structures.
3
t
Theoretical Approach
Implicit in the stated problem is the following
question: In the interaction between the two identities
(surf culture and the parent culture), how do the symbols
objectified and/or appropriated by the parent culture (and
thereby made different from other symbols in the subculture)
affect the identity of the subculture and individuals in the
subculture?
Rousseau (1990), Keesin) (1974), Drummond (1980), and
others have warned of the difficulty of pinpointing a
specifie culture. The preferred method--and the only one
with consistent results in discussions based on
anthropological fieldwork--is to apply the classifications
used by the people under study.
Surfers refer to their collection of behavioral traits
sometimes as a culture and sometimes as a subculture.
While "surfing culture" is used by surfers more often than
"surfing subculture," both terms will be used in this
thesis. ("Surf culture" and/or "surfer culture" and/or
"lifestyle" are common variants.)
To refer to a community of interaction as a subculture
is at the same time to indicate both sameness and difference
with a presumed larger culture. (I will alternately use the
term "parent culture," although l am not sure it or the term
Research Methods
The thesis here presented is based on fieldwork in
Southern California from the end of May to November of 1991.
The main method of research was participant observation,
supplemented by a study of surf industry publications and
relevant national parant culture media (music, films,
television, some magazines and books).
For most of the six mon~'s of the research, l was
twenty-six years old--an age which gave me easier access to
some groups of surfers than others. Generally speaking,
those surfers in tneir mid-twenties and oider were eager to
speak with me whil~ those in their teens were often
suspicious of my inquiries.
l began to surf during the early part of the research
period and gaine sufficient skill and knowledge to be
accepted as a surfer by the second month of research. The
learning period was shortened by my previous experiences
with surfing in Maryland for several seasons, ending ten
years before this study. The limited surfing skill acquired
during my early teen years was met quickly and exceeded as
my expertise increased throughout the research period. By
the end of the fieldwork, l felt confident enough to compete
for waves with the best surfers (although l was far less
skilled than they). l surfed on the largest waves
available when the majority of surfers were kept out of the
Definition of Surfing
Surfing is the act of using a wave of water for
propulsion in locomotion. The process is generally called
"riding the wave." The waves most commonly ridden are those
found at the meeting of shore and sea (ocean or inland sea).
Yet, surfing can be practiced wherever waves are located--in
1
12
History of Surfing
Surfboarding originated independently in several parts
of the world. It is believed to have existed aboriginally
in West Africa (Finney in Pearson 1979:203), Western South
America during the Inca Empire (Holmes 1989:646), many parts
of Oceania (Finney 1959:327), and most importantly Tahiti
and Hawaii. Nowhere did it achieve the status it held in
Hawaii.
In the Hawaii of pre-European contact, surfing was such
an important part of daily life that it could be said to be
a defining element il. hawaiian culture. Finney (1959:327)
describes this in terms of a cultural peak, a "unique
elaboration" on the sport. It was the high status and
development of surfing as an activity in Hawaii that led to
"the subsequent spread of the modern sport from Hawaii to
coastal areas throughout the world" (ibid:341).
A travelling Hawaiian prince is reported to have surfed
in Northern California in 1885 (Surfing 1991a:83). However,
the history of California surfing is generally marked from
1907 when George Freeth came from Hawaii to perform
exhibition rides at Redondo Beach. Redondo Beach, a
vacation community in Los Angeles, had recently become the
terminus of an electric rail line leading from downtown Los
Angeles. Hoping to boost flagging ticket sales, the
railroad company invited people to come watch "the man who
can walk on water" (stillman 1991a:G5). So began regular
13
Physical setting
The coastline of California and paths of communication
along it are very important to the surfers of this study.
Unlike much of the eastern coast of the united states,
California is characterized by a generally rocky coast,
alternating between sandy beaches backed by mountains or
wide river valleys and wave-eroded cliff faces. This
pattern extends south into Mexico.
The continental shelf in California is much shorter
than that an the Atlantic side of North America. The 100-
fathom (182m) depth of the ocean in the Atlantic is commonly
dangerous trails.
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19
A Description of Surfing
In order to ride a wave properly, a surfer must catch
it as it breaks. To begin the surfing session, the surfer
paddles out past the breakers to the place where contact
with the steeply rising ocean bottom forces the wave to lose
its shape as a sinuous body and to crest, forming a
distinctive wave face on its front, and to break, creating
the foam which is called surf.
Waves come in sets, almost always of three at a time,
the last one being the largest. A surfer ideally will ride
the largest wave of a set--for two reasons. The surfer
wants to maximize his enjoyment in the water by riding the
highest valued waves. He also wants to avoid paddling out
through large breakers. If he were to catch one of the
first waves in a set, he would have to paddle through the
larger breaking waves behind it to get back to the lineup
(the place where surfers wait for the waves to break).
The sets, too, come in sets. Each day, at each wave
break, the pattern of the sets is slightly different,
varying with the conditions affecting the waves themselves.
Usually a surfer can count on several sets of smaller waves
followed by one or two larger sets. The time between sets
is called the period. This is usually listed in seconds and
is given by the local media in weather forecasts.
When a surfer approaches the break, he will stand on
the shore or at some other vantage point for several
1 board towards the shore and paddle with the wave as much and
24
Point Breaks
The point break at which l spent the Most time was
Malibu Point. Malibu Point has three breaks: first,
second, and third (see Fig. 5). The waves are slightly
different at each of these, but are characteristic of point
breaks. The shore at Malibu is south facing and the point
takes advantage of the prevailing westerly winds in the
summer.
Action at Malibu begins before dawn. As soon as it is
light enough to see the waves (usually an hour or less
before dawn), individual surfers can be seen pulling their
cars off Pacifie Coast Highway to a vantage point beside the
road. Several will gather, leaning on and over the Metal
railing to discuss the condition of the waves and to make
comparisons with the waves of other days and other places.
If the waves are acceptable, Most of the observers will go
surfing at this time. They leave their cars parked beside
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27
the highway or move them into the parking lot. The numbers
of people at the railing watching and discussing the waves
will increase as the sun rises and decrease later in the
morning, but there is a flow as the surfers seldom stay
there for more than a half-hour. At aIl hours of the day,
some surfers are at the vantage point. When the waves are
very fIat, the surfers at the railing may number more than
the surfers in the water. Yet, even on the few days when
the waves are too small to surf, the draw of Malibu is so
strong that one or two surfers can be seen on their boards
paddling about in the still water.
One morning at six a.m., when the waves were only
moderate, l counted 30 surfers in the water. Already there
was heavy competition for the small number of waves.
Surfers were paddling, as they usually do, to outmaneuver
each other to reach the best spot on the wave.
As the day progresses at Malibu, more surfers will
arrive, people will come to occupy the beach and the three
breaks will become segregated.
The first break has the longest, slowest ride. It is
very weIl suited to longboard riding. Longboarders tend to
be older surfers (30 and older) who learned how to surf
before shortboards were perfected. "Balding longboarders,"
one informant called them. They often come with their
families (wives and children) who sit on the beach and watch
the surfing. Many of these men have organized their whole
1
29
32
1
33
Beach Breaks
The entire coast of California which is not point break
is beach or shore break. The main factor affecting wave
conditions at a beach break is the direction the beach is
facing. small variations in the condition of the ocean
bottom at a beach break will cause some difference in wave
quality every one hundred yards (or meters) or so. Surfers
tend to move within a few hundred yards (or meters) of their
favored beach to get the best waves at their location. The
wave locations are given names, usually associated with a
landmark or the street which ends at that beach.
For part of the research period, l lived on Brooks
Avenue in Venice. The surfing location at the end of this
34
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35
Surf Magazines
Beyond the daily interaction with a local "crew,"
contact between surfers is mediated by symbols of the surf
37
Surf Shops
For the average surfer, the locus of the surf trade is
the surf shop. A surf shop is designed to meet aIl surfing
needs as a surfer. A typical shop will sell boards,
clothes, wax, magazines, leashes, wetsuits, surfboard
manufacturer's stickers, and other items hard to find
elsewhere. When one enters a surf shop, one is likely to
find several surfers loitering, especially if the surf is
not good. (This is one way for surfers to keep excitement
high during periods when they do not surf.) One surf shop
in a community will service several surfing groups, the surf
shop and its employees often serving as a conduit for
exchange of ideas between these groups. Ideas about
equipment performance, language, and suitability of waves
will be channeled through the surf shop.
1
40
Surf Equipment
The surfboard is the essential piece of surf equipment.
Whenever two surfers meet, a question answered is always,
"What do you ride?" The size and shape as weIl as the brand
of one's board can indicate riding style, general skill
level, and usual break. If one has a custom-made board, as
many dedicated surfers do, it indicates an advanced skill
level. The increase in price for a custom board will not be
undertaken unless the surfer can use the board effectively.
New boards "off-the-rack" are expensive enough, $300 to $600
during the time of my study.
The board-making industry is the core of the surf
industry. Almost aIl of the surf-clothing manufacturers
began by making boards, and most still do. It is considered
a step into the mainstream and thus out of surfing culture
for a surf clothing company to cease making boards.
While one's board is a means of communication among
surfers, to a lesser extent, aIl other surfing equipment
which a surfer may use says something about him to other
surfers. Communication via the surf equipment itself is
visual in nature (see Chapter 6).
Surf Contests
Surf contests are an integral part of the surf
economy. They are sponsored by companies who want to sell
products to surfers and to those who watch the sport.
41
Surf Films
Surf films are ~istinct from Hollywood feature films
with a surfing sub-theme. They are often shown without
sound, a narrator, sometimes the cameraman, giving
commentary to the action. Typically, they are not shown in
movie theaters, but in rented halls and school auditoriums.
The films have no plot, but are a succession of waves and
rides at different spots in exotic locales. Interspersed
with the waves are always shots of girls in revealing
bikinis. These are often focussed on the buttocks and then
are called "butt shots."
The audience at these films is almost solely composed
of surfers, although surfers' girlfriends are sometimes
present. The surfers hoot and holler at every wave,
Surfer Employment
The great majority of surfers have a regular job like
everyone else, or they are unemployed minors living at home
or attending school. These are the surfers who mainly surf
on weekends or evenings. At most surf breaks, the daily
43
Related Industries
Skateboarding, boogie boarding, windsurfing, and
snowboarding are ail derived from the surf culture. Ali of
them have more participation world-wide than does surfing.
Ali of them must carry some surfing symbolism to non-surfers
who participate in these sports. Many surfers l know do
Family background
Not much inquiry is needed to find certain patterns of
surfer grouping based on larger class relations. My
findings compare with those of other observers (Schwendinger
and Schwendinger 1985; Wolfe 1968): surfing is mainly the
sport of children from weIl-off families. Even in a
community of ~iddle and lower-income people, such as Venice,
children from poor families do not surf.
A complete examination of the fac~ors involved in the
class makeup of surfers would require more space than l can
give here, but l believe some reasonable suggestions may be
made. Most surfers do not live within walking distance of
the beach and so must have parents with the time to drive
them, or have access to an automobile. Beachside
communities are (with some exceptions) higher-income
neighborhoods with the locations of point breaks adjacent to
the most expensive real estate in California. Malibu, for
instance, is world-famous for its high-priced homes. The
scenic beauty of these places drives up the priee and
eliminates a mix of levels of family income which is just
possible at a beach break such as Venice.
The problem of access to the beach is only one barrier
to lower classes. Equipment must be bought. Surfboards and
wetsuits are big investments on most surfers' incomes.
still, used boards and wetsuits are available. One may get
46
Recruitment
Surfers gave me a wide variety of accounts regarding
the method of and reason for their recruitment into the
sport. l met people from their pre-teen years to the age of
42 who had been surfing for one year or less.
Younger surfers tend to enter into surfing with the
deliberate purpose of becoming a part of the surfing
Socialization
Socialization into the sur~ing culture, as with aIl
socialization, requires interaction with those in the
1
50
Thrill Seeking
Every surfer speaks of the fun of the sport. None
refer solely to any of the other reasons one may pursue
surfing--such as exercise, aesthetics of the setting, or the
feel of warm sunshine on one'e back--as the reason they
surf. Every surfer surfs because it is fun. It is not just
fun, but so fun that most surfers cannot describe in words
how they feel after a good ride. Most let out one or more
joyful screams, hoots or a stream of surf words which border
on glossolalia.
John Kerr, a researcher in sports psychology, can
describe how they feel. He studied arousal-seeking in risk
sport participants (1991), one of the groups being
Australian surfers. He finds that those who participate in
dangerous sports (surfing is listed as very dangerous) are
"paratelic dominant," that is, they score low on tests for
serious-mindedness and arousal avoidance. He concludes
"that paratelic dominant individuals enjoy high arousal and
actively seek out situations where they can induce these
pleasant feelings" (ibid.:616).
51
Obsession
t Kerr has informed us that surfers who pursue their
activity regularly are paratelic dominant. Paratelic
dominance is also associated with delinquency, gambling
behavior and drug addiction (Kerr 1991:613). Surfing may
join gambling and drugs as an object of possible addiction.
Some surfers have used the word "addiction" in describing
their involvement with surfing to me. More common is the
word "obsession." In either case, it is clear from my
association with surfers that participation in the sport
takes precedence over most things which American culture
ascribes more importance than surfing. Most significant
among these is work.
A bumper sticker occasionally seen on surfers' cars
reads: "Work is for people who don't surf." AlI of the
dedicated surfers l know would rather surf than work. In
fact, many older former surfers with ~hom l talked listed
work as weIl as "growing up and getting serious" about life
and a family as a reason for leaving the sport and the
surfing lifestyle.
In 1962, a scenario was described which aIl current
surfers would find familiar:
There is one chronic danger to the
surfer which is rarely mentioned but should be
studiously watched, and that is the time it takes.
This may seem to be a truism, but it can turn into
the greatest accident of all--not because you
couldn't get by with an hour a day--you could--but
the chances are you won't, and surfing will take
hold of you like dope, dominoes or centrifugaI
1 bumble puppy, and you will become an addict with
54
1 regular basis.
55
Discovering Institutions
Observation of the physical competition for waves led
me to believe that compliance with social rules in the water
1s the main surfer institution. A number of ~thers, though,
did emerge.
l made a list of the topics of conversation dwelt on by
Sensation
Starting with talk on the water, l must conclude that
the sensation of surfing is a major surfer institution.
Knowing what it feels like to be a surfer--as Wilkinson
(1991:86) writes, to be one of those "who've felt their
synapses pop when they spit out of a hissing barrel"--is
more important than aIl other things for acceptance into
57
1
58
Technical Expertise
Shared intellectual experience of surfing is another
surfer institution. Next to sensations, the most common
topic of conversation for surfers on and off the water is
discussion of riding techniques. This includes critiques
of other surfers in the water, reports of one's ewn
progress on a wave, discussions of technical merits of
boards and wetsuits. Knowledge and discussion of wave
conditions alse falls under this category.
Surfers must have a great deal of technical knowl~dge
Language
Surfer language is often pointed to by non-surfers as
an identifying feature of surf culture. It is really a
jargon, but its lexicon is applied to non-surf experiences,
often leo.ing non-surfers in confusion amongst a group of
surfe <"s. Some words, like the identifier "dude," have
entered popular youth culture through the national media and
are used by the media and non-surfing youth in situations
far removed from the ocean.
61
(even though we could all see it) by saying such phrases as,
"He stood up for the curtain call" (meaning that the
surfer had stood up on his board only to be consumed by the
lip of the wave which could be described as a curtain of
water). In many places, l heard abbreviations which l could
not decipher. Although one which was probably not intended
to be secret was the verb "V.S.O.P." "1 got V.S.O.P.'ed
last night" referred to being drunk and l suspect was
derived from the letters displayed on matured cognac. l
should say that l only heard this verb among surfers who
were legally too young to drink alcohol and who may have had
some reason for hiding their drinking activities should an
outsider overhear their conversation.
New uses cf language are picked up by the magazines,
who print the language used in interviews and sent in
letters. l asked an editor of one of the magazines if he
thought the magazines were responsible for a standardization
of surf culture in any way. Without hesitation he referred
to language. "Gnarly" and "stoke" are words that will be
understood by any surfer in the world. They have been used
consistently in the magazines for a number of years.
In spite of some standardization of surf language,
local groups do develop their own words which must be
learned to be part of the society at that location. In
santa Cruz (northern California), it is reported (Bishop
1991:B1) that a sub-language built around the use of the
verb "haken" ('to surf') at one break excludes even other
63
History
An awareness of the history of surfing was found among
aIl of the surfers I met. History places surfers in time
and gives them a continuity "f identity. Most surfers are
aware of their historical connection with Hawaii as weIl as
the history of the development of the modern board. The
~ncreasing importance of surfers to the rest of America and
the world is noted within a historieal context by most
1 surfers.
64
Surf Trips
Surf trips are an important source of shared identity.
Surfers spend hours talking about past and proposed trips to
various surf locations throughout the world. Surfers may go
with friends to any place in the world, but surfers from
Southern California visit two places most often: Baja
California and Hawaii.
Baja is a place to which surfers may go on a whim.
They will fasten their boards to the racks on top of their
cars, calI their close friends and travel as far south on
the Baja California peninsula as is needed to find
unoccupied waves. The surfers l met from various breaks
share a feeling about Baja. For them, it has connotations
of freedom from crowds, of adventure, but also of closeness,
65
The Attitude
In so much of the surf and popular literature, one
reads about surfers as "free-spirited, natural, fun-Iovin'
clean-cut kids looking for a little summer romance" (George
1991:12; see also Muirhead 1962:130 and Koehner 1957). This
is assuredly how surfers in the main see themselves.
Fun is the key word. l believe surfers derive fun from
mischief in addition to their other fun-generating
activities. wilkinson (1991:89) notes of the 1960s that "an
outlaw ethic ruled the beaches." AlI law-breaking
activities which l observed were done as a group and
accompanied by smiles. They were fun for the surfers.
The Look
A number of visual symbols are important in the surf
culture. These include boards, wetsuits, stickers, cars and
clothes. It is not surprising that the board, the one
essential tool in surfboarding has a lot of meaning for
surfers. Most surfers l talked to could give a detailed
history of the evolution of the surfboard. Every part of
the board's design affects its performance. Even a cursory
examination of a board will give fellow surfers clues to a
rider's style and attitudes towards the wave.
Wetsuits are given strong consideration by surfers
also. Brand will indicate one's sympathies (does the surfer
wear a locally manufactured, Hawaiian, or Australian suit?).
Color can indicate one's approach to surfing. Bright colors
69
1
70
The same editorial laments the fact that many surfers have
begun ~~ring biker (motorcycle) attire. Many surfers have
turned aWl1Y from the typical surf look because the surfer
look has become popular with the parent culture (or as
George says, the "straight world"). That some surfers today
would want to wear something other than the nationally
popular surf fashions is not a special occasion in the
history of surfing. In other words, most surfers
consciously choose not to wear surfer clothes which are
popular with non-surfers. change in surfing symbols,
including clothing, is a surfer institution.
Change
Change of surfing symbols is an institution which aIl
surfers in my study perpetuate. Surfers are different and
are willing to work to stay that way. This is easily seen
in the case of surfers exchanging their sandals for hobnail
boots. In the same editorial on surfer fashion, George
(ibid.) writes, "Now that the nationwide surf fashion wave
has peaked--now that the great untold masses have decided to
put their underwear back on--it would follow that real
surfers would once again relax back into their casual
sartorial statement. But for many, it appears that the
72
reprieve has come too late; that there were just too IDany
Spuds MCKenzie-in-baggies [loose surfer shorts] shots and
Mervyn's [a department store chain] "Surfer Sales" to ever
go back. We're stuck in a fashion backlash "
This has happened before. Schwendinger and
Schwendinger (1985:410ff) tell us that in 1967, surfers
changed their clothing choice in response to popularization
of surfing styles. l witnessed it happen in the late
1970's. It is likely to happen again.
Language changes, too. Trevor Cralle (in Bishop
1991:B2) says that "As soon as 'tubular' appeared in the
Zappa song [the 1982 hit "Valley Girl" which inspired a
movie of the same title], l haven't heard a surfer utter
that word again." "Tubular" is just one surf word which has
been consciously dropped by surfers.
Sam George (in Stillman 1991b:42) explains, "people
have tried to sterilize surfing and sell it to the masses.
It won't happen. There's a defense mechanism. Surfing
protects itself." The defense mechanism is the institution
of change in surfer symbols. changes are in response to
surfers' percept.on of how their symbols are communicated by
the national media and used by non-surfers.
A Stereotype
The first point that should be made about the national
media is that its use of surf symbols is not necessarily
about or for surfers. According to informa~ts, only the
Rawls (in Van Parijs, p.10l), " .. those who surf all day off
the water, the stylist ran after me and asked if she could
All of the models were flown in from New York. They were
."''''; ..
77
Surfer Consumption
l was surprised to find that the surfers in my study
were not very interested in non-surf media presentations of
surf images. l could find no surfers who claimed to watch
the current television series "Baywatch" even though it
regularly features surfer symbols and is in part recorded at
several popular breaks. (1 was surfing at one of the breaks
when "Baywatch" was being fi:'med in the water. l, along
with the other surfers in the lineup, found the film crew
and the actors to be more of a nuisance than a curiosity.)
A feature film with a surfing theme, "Point Break," was
released during the research period. After its run in local
theaters, I found very few surfers who had seen it although
aIl of the current surfers l knew had seen the real surf
film which was shown at the same time.
No surfers l knew preferred to listen to what is
popularly called surf music--by The Beach Boys, Jan and
Dean, Surf Punks, and other musicians whose lyrics have a
surfing theme. However, most surfers were familiar with it:
hits from the 1960s of The Beach Boys and Jan and Dean are
still regularly played on radio stations around the country.
l only found one surfer out of dozens l asked who had
read The PumP House Gang, a best-selling book by Tom Wolfe
78
Divisions
spot.
group.
83
1
84
;
Hierarchy
Hierarchy at wave locations is different every day and
from moment to moment, but is a conscious construction in
the minds of surfers. Those ~t the top of the hierarchy
ride the most waves, while those at the bottom have fewer
and less desirable waves. We may see this hierarchy in a
spatial way at breaks. At the spot in the lineup where the
best waves break are the best surfers. Surfers less
accomplished will be seen at the edges of the group of
surfers or perhaps even far away. Usually, waves may be
ridden wherever there is a shore, so the surfers at the
fringes of the lineup (and also at the fringes of surfing
culture) are still able to catch waves, but of a definite
poorer quality. Recognition of a hierarchy (i.e. lower
status surfers giving up waves to higher statue surfers) is
also important for safety. The higher status surfers (most
skillful and most aggressive) are able to outpaddle the
lower status surfers in competition for. waves. When lower
status surfers acknowledge this difference, they are
better able to avoid collision. Never in a surf session
with many surfers have l observed a hierarchy completely
recognized by aIl of the surfers in an area, nor aIl of the
rules adhp.red to.
The hierarchy formed is based on skill, confidence and
reputation. Action i~ the water is more important -Chan
reputation, but a reputation may give one some advantage.
85
" position to catch the waves, but will have the respect of
fellow surfers who will then relinquish waves to them.
Higher status surfers may also share waves. I paddled
out to the best spot at a point break one day. The surfer
who was in the best position to catch the wave and who--as I
later found out--was the dominant surfer of the small crew
at the break said, "It's aIl yours, dude." I caught the
next wave, but surfed it poorly. By positioning of their
boards, the surfers present effectively excluded me from the
best waves, although I was allowed to catch smaller waves
which they did not choose. When my skill level (and status)
was unknown, the dominant surfer was willing to relinquish a
wave to me (especially since I behaved like a high status
surfer by immediately paddling to the best spot). When my
lower skill level was revealed, he and the others of the
local crew enforced their higher status by excluding me
from the prime take-off spot.
At times, I was the most highly skilled surfer at a
beach break and able to take my pi~k of the waves.
Sometimes, when my skill level was comparable or slightly
lower than others at a break, I was still the dominant
surfer. Without knowing the exact reasons, I can list two
possibilities. When the other surfers were adolescents, it
is possible that my age or size gave me a higher status.
When the other surfers included people my age or older, my
1
86
',J
87
Masculinity
california.
94
1 the men.
95
Non-surfers
Non-surfers are given a low position in the surfer
world view. In the water, non-surfers are cursed and
sometimes yelled at to get out of the way. At Malibu, only
surfboarders are allowed in the water by the lifeguard. At
other locations l visited bodyboarders were resented.
Swimmers, the slowest moving people in the water, were the
most resented of aIl. Surfers consider non-surfers, who do
not know the surfer safety and courtesy rules, a safety
risk.
Non-surfers on the beach had no standing whatsoever.
It was as if they did not exist. However, if the non-
96
CHAPTER 9: Conclusion
Review
The main points of the thesis are four.
1) Surfing creates the basis for a separate society
which is referred to as a culture by surfers (which may or
may not have the same meaning as "culture" used by the
parent society, but neverthE".ess implies a separation of
identity). The aspects of surfing which form this basis are
surfing history, the physical setting of surfing, the shared
points of personal identity among surfers, and the
development and maintenance of social institutions.
2) The surf economy supports a separate surfer identity
by advertising and satisfying the surfer's need, not only
for eesential surfing equipment, but also for items to help
the surfer fit into surf culture (e.g., clothes, stickers).
The surf economy a:.';, has an effect on the parent culture in
that symbols (especially clothing) are drawn from the surf
economy into the larger culture. Communication between
widely separated groups of surfers is mediated by the surf
economy (especially by surf magazines and surf films).
3) Surfing has a strong association with adolescence
which affects surfers of every age and contributes to the
Questions
strokes. Some questions remain which time and space did not
Concl.uding Remarks
Anthropology, which has a tendency to describe
normative traits in the activity of a group of people (as
does this ethnography), seldom deals with subcultures,
which ~re necessarily departures from a larger normative
culture. When attention is directed to subcultures,
ethnic-based rather than activity-based subcultures are
101
1
102
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