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handbook 20142014
handbook - 2015
CLEANSING
TYPES
WATERY
OIL
Dissolved in a water base and are used
together with a cotton pad to remove
surface dirt. Suitable for skin which is
Like dissolves like concept allows easily irritated with frequent washing.
oil cleansers to remove make-up or (pg 18-23)
water-resistant sunscreen most
effectively. Emulsifiers dissolved in oil
allow easy rinsing with water. Ideal for
heavy make-up users.
(pg 3-17)
MILK/BALM
The higher content of oils in milky
formulations are suited for extremely dry
2
CONCEPT 1
OIL CLEANSING
3
ESTERS FOR CLEANSING OILS
Our special esters for formulating mild
and effective cleansing esters with nice feel.
DS-1220
0.1397 Nikkol
Trifat S-308
0.1264
A higher absorbency
value means there is more
of the make-up eluting
into the solution, which Nikkol
means a higher cleansing Absorbency
CIO
effect. (Evaluated at a
Index 0.1178
wavelength of 580nm)
Test Method:
A commercially-available lipstick was applied
evenly to a cotton pad (1.5 x 3cm) and
Mineral allowed to sit for 20 minutes. The pad was
Oil placed in a bottle containing the sample
0.1080 cleansing esters. Using a shaker, the bottle
was shaken for 20 minutes at 30C.
4
DS-1220
INCI Name: Dibutyloctyl Sebacate
This ester shows superior make up
removing properties. It easily
dissolves and disperses poorly soluble
substances. DS-1220 provides elegant Cleansing effect on lipstick.
non-greasy feel after cleansing. Left: Cleansing cream with DS-1220
Clear & odorless. Right: Control
GS-MHL
INCI Name: Methyheptyl Laurate
Ultra-light plant-derived cleansing ester manufactured with minimum waste (e-factor of
0.02)*. Ideal for formulators searching for D5 replacement for cleansing.
Before Cleansing
The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.
5
H one y C leansing O I L
The cleansing ritual should be both a purifying and
sensorial experience. While massaging on the face, the user can
experience the transformation of this soft gel to cushiony oils that
dissolve deep-seated dirt or sebum. Can be removed by just water
to leave skin soft and moisturized.
(Lot.12- GCH-23)
INCI NAME TRADE NAME ROLE WT %
Phase A
Triethylhexanoin Nikkol Trifat S-308 Cleansing Ester 51.62
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate Nikkol CIO Cleansing Ester 5
Squalane Nikkol Sugar Squalane Oil Material 5
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil Nikkol Rosehip Oil Oil Material 1
Polymeric
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Carbol Ultrez 20 0.1
Stabilizer
Phase B
Hydrophilic
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate Nikkol TGI-20 10
Surfactant
Glycerin Humectant 17.5
Triethanolamine Neutralizer 0.1
Phase C
Preservative q.s.
Butylene Glycol Humectant 2.5
Electrostatic
Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate Nikkol SMT 0.05
Stabilizer
Water 5
Phase D
Moisturizing
Royal Jelly Extract, BG, Water Royal Jelly Extract- J 1
Active
Thymus Serpillum Extract,
Moisturizing
Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Plant Extract Complex BG 1
Active
Origanum Marjorana Leaf Extract, BG, Water
Phase E
Fragrance q.s.
Procedure:
1. Heat Phase C until completely dissolved then add phase B.
2. Mix well together.
3. Add Phase A (oil material) into B+C dropwise at RT under paddle mixing.
4. After addition of Phase A, heat the whole mixture until 50C (for the polymer to gel up properly)
and stir for 5 minutes. Cool down to RT.
5. Slowly add Phase D and E and stir again until a homogenous gel is formed.
6
Marketing Claims
New type of oil cleansing with honey-like texture
Melts into cushiony oils for stress-free cleansing
Emulsifies quickly with water for fresh feeling
Infused with Royal Jelly extract & moisturizing botanicals
Foundation
(Maquillage True Liquid)
Lipstick
(Estee Lauder Electric Lipstick)
Mascara
(Majolica Majorca Lash Expander)
This formulation is highly recommended for light to medium make-up users or for people
with dry skin or sensitive skin.
Cleansing Evaluation
7
Emulsifiers for Cleansing OIL
Self-emulsifying surfactant to allow base oils
to interact with water for easy rinsability.
GO-430 NV
INCI Name: Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
Appearance
INCI Name Light Yellow Liquid
Sorbeth-30
Tetraoleate
HLB
11.5
GO-430 NV
The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.
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Formulation 1: Self-emulsifying Cleansing Ester (Lot. 06-DC-1)
This is a traditional anhydrous (water-free) cleansing oil formulation with GO-430NV as
the main emulsifier. The base oil (mineral oil) can be replaced with light-feel sustainable
Sugar Squalane (see below) or any vegetable oil for a more natural formulation.
Mineral Oil - 45
Squalane is a choice emollient for its high skin absorption & softening effect on skin.
Sugar Squalane is made from sugarcane grown through traceable and sustainable
techniques in Brazil. Compared to olive squalane, this does not compete with food
consumption thus making supply & pricing stable.
Spreadabilty
9
Emulsifiers for Cleansing OIL
Plant-derived self-emulsifying non-ionic surfactant
with superior cleansing properties.
TGI-20
INCI Name: PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
Phenoxyethanol - 0.4
1 2 3
Tested samples
Mascara
1. Water (control)
2. Commercial Cleansing Ester (Japan)
3. Cleansing Ester with TGI-20
Cleansing Power
Method:
Lipstick (commercial water-proof lipstick)
and mascara (commercial, water-proof) were
Lipstick
The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.
10
I nnovative C leansing O il
What are bicontinuous cleansing formulations?
11
C onventional T y p e
I.
The challenges of a conventional formulation
Oil
Conventional Type
Small / Large
amount of water Water
Conventional Type: These type of cleansers emulsify immediately with the presence of
water even in small amounts. This leads to reduced cleansing power & low rinsability of
the formulation.
Make-up/dirt
Removal
Skin Surface Skin Surface
1. With wet hands or when in the 2. Water will also increase the particle
shower, emulsification happens upon size of these oil droplets, leaving a
contact with water. Water obstructs sticky feeling on skin.
the oil droplets to remove make-up.
12
B icontin u o u s T y p e
II.
The merits of a bicontinuous formulation
Oil Oil
Water
Water
1 No Loss in 2 Superior
Cleansing Bicontinuous Rinsabiity
Power Blend
Make-up/dirt
Dissolution
Skin Surface Skin Surface
13
B icontin u o u s
Watery oil cleansing formulations
Nikkomix CW
(Lot 15-SBL-12) WT %
20
INCI Name PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate,
Sorbitan Oleate,
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
Water
Solvent Butylene Glycol
Humectant
WT %
27
WT %
20
14
Bicontinuous formulas allow make-up removal without double washing with soap for
lesser disruption of skin barrier.
TRADE NAME WT %
Nikkomix CW 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33
Butylene Glycol 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate 20 10 10 10 10
Decyl Oleate 20
Hydrogenated Polydecene 20
Mineral Oil 20
Avocado Seed Oil 20
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 10
Ethylhexyl Palmitate 10
Triethylhexanoin 10
Dodecane 10
Water 26.6 26.6 26.6 26.6 26.6 26.6 26.6 26.6 26.6
Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4
Total 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100
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B icontin u o u s P R E M I X
Convenient cleansing for both
dry & wet hand use
Cleomix DX
INCI Name PEG-10 Laurate, Sorbitan
Oleate, Decyl Glucoside, Alcohol, Water
Regular oil emulsifies.
This is a blend of plant-derived, low irritation
ingredients suited for formulations aiming for
sensitive skin. This blend creates a
bicontinuous structures with a wide variety of
oils of different polarities. This can be thicken
into milks or balms that can be washed easily Cleomix DX oil forms visible
bicontinuous phase
into a micro-emulsion. (oil and water repel each other).
Cyclomethicone 15
Nikkol Sugar Squalane To 100
Fragrance q.s.
Preservative q.s.
Lipstick
Water 2.5
1. Mix A well. Add B while stirring A.
2. Stop stirring when mixture becomes transparent.
The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.
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P E G - F ree C leansing
PEG-Free bicontinuous cleansing oil for
sensitive skin
The demand for plant-derived, PEG-free emulsifiers have greatly increased and polyglycerol
esters are excellent choices for superior cleansing & unique properties such as having a
bicontinuous channel.
Fragrance q.s.
Procedure: Mix well at room temperature
Lipstick
Foundation
Mascara
(Waterproof)
Watery
CLEANSING
18
O I L - F R E E C leansing W ater
One-step make-up removal with
functional care
SG-CG700
INCI Name PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
SG-CG700 is a non-ionic hydrophilic surfactant
that can be dissolved in watery surfactant
solutions to formulate cleansing waters. It is
also good in solubilizing oil materials such as
essential oils for high transparency.
(Lot.20-TWC-13-101209)
Phase A
PEG-20 Glyceryl
Nikkol TGI-20 Cleansing Agent 5.0
Triisostearate
Phase B
Phase C
Procedure:
1. Heat A to dissolve materials (BPS-30 flakes) and add B
2. Add C to A+B
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W ater y C leansing L otion
Watery texture with superior cleansing power
Improve skin dullness & minimize enlarged pores
Key Materials
Market SG-CG700
Before Cleansing
Product
Cleansing Pore Care Lotion
SG-CG700
Foundation
MYL-10 LPA
Lesinol
Mascara
SH-50
Lipstick
Anti-inflammation
(Lot. 27-MBF-22)
INCI NAME TRADE NAME WT %
Phase A
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate Nikkol SG-CG700 4.0
PEG-10 Laurate Nikkol MYL-10 4.0
PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Nikkol SG-KH5000 2.0
Lecithin, Lysolecithin LPA 0.1
Hydroxylated Lecithin, Glycerin Nikkol Lesinol SH-50 0.5
Preservative q.s.
Phase B
Water To 100.0
PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate CAE 0.1
Phase C
Citric Acid 0.005
Sodium Citrate 0.03
Disodium EDTA 0.03
Water 5.00
Procedure:
1. Heat A to 80C to dissolve. 4. Add B to A, mix till uniform.
2. Heat B till dissolved. 5. Add C and mix till uniform.
3. Dissolve C at RT.
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POINT CLEANSING
99% Natural point cleanser with
triple cleansing action
Glycerin-rich formula reacts with moisture to warm up the skin & soften it for serious cleansing.
Natural solubilizer, Decaglyn 1-L, helps dissolve excess sebum like a powerful oil cleanser.
Mannan beads provide its unique soft scrubbing to clear away dead skin cells without irritating or hurting
skin. Sugarcane-derived Squalane leaves your skin soft and moisturised after rinsing.
Commercial Warming
Benchmark Scrub Gel
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G el to W ater C once p t
Cleanse & tone in one-step with
gel-to-water concept
Nikkomulese SE-W
INCI Name PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisosterarate, Water, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan
Sesquiisostearate, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer,
PPG-8-Ceteth-20, Phenoxyethanol
22
Lipstick
Mascara
Phase A
Preservatives q.s.
Phase B
Water 49.5
Potassium Hydroxide
Neutralizer 0.5
(10% aq)
Phase C
23
CONCEPT 3
FOAM CLEANSING
24
C leansing F oam
Ultra-mild surfactant for
cleansing foams
CMT-30
INCI Name Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Water
This extremely mild surfactant helps to cleanse skin without removing the skin lipids,
which are an essential part of skin barrier. It has good foaming ability and is stable in low
pH conditions.
(dmol/cm2)
3.0
2.3
1.5
0.8
0.0
CMT-30 strips less lipids compared to other surfactants
25
Comparison of composition of Nikkol CMT-30 and commercially available aqueous
solutions of Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate.
CMT-30 makes it possible to make low viscosity (fluid) and clear (transparent) shampoo
or cleansing formulations, while competing products tend to make formula viscous and
opaque. Due to well-balanced alkyl distribution of CMT-30, it will foam better at wider
range of temperatures.
Other grades tends to have up to 10 times more salt (NaCl) than CMT-30. In the finished
formula it would mean that CMT-30 will provide :
a) richer & denser foam
b) will not thicken up
c) will be more transparent.
Phosten HLP-1
INCI Name Laureth-1 Phosphate
This mild surfactant is part of the class of mono-alkyl phosphates that have a low stinging
effect, less stripping and imparts a refreshed yet moistened skin feel after rinsing.
Commonly used for mildly-acidic formulations that matches natural skin pH.
26
Theory for Skin Tightness after Washing
2
Removal of
Water Soluble Materials
Removal of Skin
Surface Lipids
3 4
After Washing
After the lipids are removed during the washing process and then thoroughly rinsed with water, the small amount
of surfactant that remains on the skin (due to the loss of lipids) induces tension in the stratum corneum layer,
resulting in the sensation of tightness.
Phostens exhibited the lowest ratio of lipid loss, less adsorbed into the skin (lower irritation) & does not cause
skin tightness. Phostens give a very distinctive moist feel after washing without the sting or tightness.
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O il C leansing F oam
The power of oil cleansing combined with
the refreshing experience of a foaming wash
Very fine foam captures make-up residues deep in pores and removes them efficiently.
Oil helps moisturise skin but the formulation leaves a non-oily, refreshed skin feeling.
Arginine 3.6
Not Compatible
Citric acid 0.01
a) cyclopentasiloxane
Sodium Citrate 0.02
b) squalane
Water 30
Phase C
Water 35.37
TOTAL 100
Procedure:
1. Heat A and B at 80 to 85C.
2. Add B to A while mixing A, and cool it down to the room temperature.
3. Add C at room temperature.
28
M assaging F oam
New rituals: Incorporating facial massage in
your morning face wash
Experiencing dull skin during your sick days or winter season? A light massage with a rich
| LPG-powered foam activates skin by improving blood circulation & calming your moods
for a positive start.
Pump out foam Apply on face Massage for 1 min Pat on skin (pack) Rinse-off
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E nhancing S T A B I L I T Y
Enhance the foam richness, moist after-feel
and improve overall gloss & formulation stability!
Nikkofoam S
INCI Name Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Stearic acid, Glycol Distearate,
Tocopheryl Acetate
Phase C
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Water Nikkol CMT-30 10
Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate Nikkol SMT 1
1,3-BG 1
EDTA-3Na 0.05
Phenoxyethanol 0.5
Water 8
Procedure:
1. Heat A, B, C to 80C.
2. While mixing A at 80C., add B gradually and mix until saponify.
3. Add C and cool down till 35C.
30
Stability Improvement Property
Cream washes are actually fluid crystalline structures that influence the softness,
wetting, and foaming properties. But these crystalline structures usually breakdown
at high temperature (storage in tropical countries) causing creaming or separation
at the bottom.
Separation in all 3
0% 2% 4%
31
CONCEPT 4
MILKYCLEANSING
32
R insable C leansing M ilk
Luxury & comfort of milk
Key merit is the skin softening effect (40% oil + polyol) while removing make-up
effectively. With water, milk transforms to micro-sized particles that can be easily
rinsed off.
Procedure:
1. Heat B to A at 80C until dissolved. 3. Add C slowly and cool down until 35C
2. Heat B to A at 80C until emulsified.
Add in the oil phase 1% of Phytofix, a blend of plant extracts that replenishes skin lipids and strengthens skin
barrier with every cleansing .
33
P E G - F ree C leansing C ream
Rich cleansing cream that releases oils
when massaged on skin
3 Key oil materials: Superior cleansing effect is brought by Trifat S-308 while ODM-
100 brings luxurious spread & body. Behenyl Alcohol 80 gives a velvety elegance
to the total formulation.
The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.
34
M elting C leansing B alm
For richer cleansing experience
The combination of a non-polar wax (performalene) with polar oils creates house-of-
card structure where oils are released once shear is applied.
Add 1-2% Meadowfoam Seed Oil, a waxy oil suited for balm
formulations. Rich in long-chain fatty acids- this oil is perfect for
anti-aging cleansing concepts.
1-2% Macadamia Nut Oil to replenish aged skin with palmitoleic acid,
a fatty acid we lose eventually as we age.
35