ISSUE 01

ABOUT | DANIELLE MUNTYAN

I am a Leeds based Freelance Graphic Designer working within the Fashion and Beauty Industries, and the Lead
Graphic Designer for High Definition Beauty (HD Brows). I have an interest in how modern blogger empires,
social media obsessions and traditional print based magazines affect ones self-perception and view on body
image, which is derived from suffering with extreme Anorexia Nervosa in my younger years.

For my MA (Creative Practice) at LCA, specialising in International Fashion and Beauty Communications,
I explored this interest on a cross-cultural scale, exploring the West and East as contrasting comparatives.

CONTACT

daniellemuntyandesign.dunked.com
danielle-muntyan@hotmail.co.uk

CREDITS | BIBLIOGRAPHY

danielle.muntyan.co.uk/index.php/2017/07/07/bibliography/
EDITORS
WELCOME
ISSUE 01:
Welcome to this debut issue of The Industry. Issue 01
focuses on social media, magazines and influencers
upon self-perception within the cross-cultural world
of the fashion and beauty industries. The articles
both depict and discuss the effect of media content
on body image, self-esteem and narcissism. This
first issue is unique in that it provides a variety of
candid perspectives from a range of voices from
within industry, including those of models, vloggers,
international brands and magazine editors.
The Industry series aims to highlight cultural truths
about the beauty and fashion industries and provoke
debates concerning the ethics of some practices,
in the light of recent research on issues such as
mental health. Derived from an inside interest in
how these industries and the rise of social media can
affect ones self-perception and self-esteem, The
Industry magazine was born. Article content depicts
provocations and insider truths, whilst educating
and informing those who are interested in, or work in
the beauty and fashion industries around the world.
danielle muntyan
In addition, it aims to raise awareness of the positive
outlets and marketing strategies which are outlined
to combat this, and fight for one to be accepting of
themselves in a world where we often strive to be like,
act like, or look like someone else.
This issue looks at Western and Eastern cultures, in
an aim to understand how trends, brands, blogger
empires and social media compare, and how this
effects viewpoints and self-perceptions. This issue
puts a spotlight on cross-cultural ideals and critical
perspectives relating to self-identity. Nine months of
research, interviews, collaboration and writing have
gone into this first edition of The Industry magazine,
gaining access to the likes of Vogue Japan and ASOS,
to give readers an honest and insightful, yet critical
and cynical view of the voices within the industries
which are dominating the 21st century. I hope you
enjoy reading this first edition, and that it sparks and
inspires conversation, and debate alike.
 CONTENTS

SOCIAL MEDIA ISSUE 01

04 Anon Survey
06 Selfie Warning
10 Selfies, Narcissim and Self-Esteem
12 Mulveys Changing Gaze
16 Sex Sells
18 Backlash of Social Media
20 Porn Chic
28 Porn Chic and Self-Objectification

82 Insta Glam with Charlotte Stacey | Photography & Art Direction: Danielle Muntyan
30 How to be Social Media Famous

EASTERN CROSS-CULTURE

44 Economy of Beauty
50 Japanese Beauty
58 Nicole Takamoto
66 Charlotte Stacey
72 Kyoko Muramatsu

BLOGGERS & VLOGGERS

82 Insta Glam with Charlotte Stacey

88 Manny and Jeffree
94 Modern Muse
106 Milk and Honey
116 Fashion Bloggers and Influencers

A BIT OF PERSPECTIVE

134 Tam Dexter

142 ASOS
152 Good American
158 Nadine LeBlond
164 Bobbi Rae
168 Samantha Ravndahl
 01.
SOCIAL MEDIA
The internet allows people to present
an inflated and self-focused view of
themselves to the world
Twenge & Campbell (2005)
 The average
18-24 year old
spends 2 hours a day
alone on Instagram,
spanning across
16 visits to the
application. But, how
does this affect ones
self-perception?

04
 It seems like there is a higher
percentage of people that have a
slimmer, fitter, smoother, tanner body
Participants of a 2017 study stated that..
than mine

I feel like I have to buy more beauty

products and try them out. Things
I would never have thought about.
Products such as pore minimiser,
eyebrow pencils and face creams.
Because of these products I am more
aware of parts of my body that I
wouldnt have noticed before

All models and fitness bloggers use

social media as a platform to sell
themselves, and I look at these amazing
looking people with amazing bodies and
feel so self conscious that I dont look
like them

Theres so many examples of extreme

beauty to compare yourself to

For a long time I let Instagram get me

down, how good people look on the
internet compared to how I look in real
life. It wasnt long before I figured it
was an unfair comparison. You only put
your best bits online and with all the
apps and make up available now, we can
all play along with the best of them

05
WARNING
WARNING
WARNING
PLEASE NOTE:
THESE SELFIES MAY TRIGGER
SELF-ESTEEM & CONFIDENCE ISSUES

07
 BODY IMAGE

SELF-PERCEPTION
NARCISSISM
 SELFIES,
NARCISSIM &
SELF-ESTEEM
The rise of narcissism and self-esteem
issues through the rise of the seflie,
self-photography and social media
Social media has impacted the world like no
other online outlet. It is hard to list all of the
effects that social media can have on one; either
positive or negative. At a glance, it is obvious
that self-expression has become a paramount
benefit, and one can connect with friends and
loved ones all over the world within seconds,
sharing stories, photos, videos and conversation.
On the flip side, there are trolls and judgement
taking place by International critics whom one
may not even know; simply as a result of a selfie
going live on Instagram, Facebook or Snapchat.
These photo-based platforms allow for one
to create an ideal lifestyle or image, only
projecting what one wants others to see; a self-
focused and inflated view of oneself. Deceptive
angles and filters have taken self-photography
to another extreme, allowing for narcissists to
prevail on an International platform without
necessarily knowing themselves.
Lowen, a researcher and theorist, describes
narcissism as an investment in ones image
as opposed to ones self; their activities are
directed toward the enhancement of their
image. This quote embodies modern day
society, be it through social media, plastic
surgery, cosmetics or clothing. All one needs to
do is look at celebrities and bloggers to see the
embodiment of narcissism in a digitally social
10
world. The world has become image-led and
one is lead to believe that whoever receives
most likes or positive comments are the
epitome of beauty or fashion; and now even the
fitness industry.
In regard to Instagram; the app some may say
was designed to show, take and edit selfies, is
comprised of a mass of individuals competing
against each other for followers, likes, reposts,
favourites, and whichever other show of
approval exists out there rather than any sort
of collective goal of mass beauty and global
acceptance of diversity and culture.
It is this self-obsession and competitive culture
which pushes one to make aesthetic changes to
reach a level of acceptance, whilst also pushing
one into a whirlwind of self-esteem and body
image issues.
A research study consisting of anonymous
male and female participants carried out in
2017 showed that 80% of participants within
the age bracket of 18-24 felt that social media
had impacted negatively on their self-esteem
and confidence. Theorist Hesse-Biber claims
that those already vulnerable to self-esteem or
body image issues are most impacted by social
media platforms and the subsequent intergroup
comparison which follows. This intertwines with
other image-led perspectives and ideologies
such Mulveys gaze, which has changed and
moulded itself overtime to echo the modern
digital age with lenses and camera phones
acting as a barrage of self-doubt and self-
objectification for the pleasing of the follower.
This being said though, a viscious cycle follows,
with said pleasing resulting in praise for the
body or face behind the lens. This then allows
and encourages a repetitive notion of self- LIKES GIVE THE
photography to occur, solely in the pursuit SAME HIGH AS A SMALL
of reassurance.
HIT OF COCAINE
It is unlikely that one would admit that self-
photography is curated for self-adornment but are looking at is real or constructed in a post-
with narcissists it has been stated that every production of lighting, retouching and face-
like can give the same impact on one mentally tune apps, the danger of this having a negative
and physically as a hit of cocaine. Such yearning impact on one is real. One participant claimed
for validation has now reached such levels where that Instagram doesnt do real life filters;
one can buy likes or followers to give people you cant edit real life, echoing the notion of
that hit for aesthetic highs. falseness impacting on peoples insecurities for
the selfish benefit of others.
But, for others, image-led applications can cause
a negative stir, as previously mentioned. The But with narcissism on the rise, more filters,
anonymous study allowed for participants to air more lenses and more editing apps becoming
their views on such platforms with one claiming readily available each week, will there ever be
that; there are so many examples of beauty to a sincere level of engagement on social media
compare yourself to. How do you know what you anymore? Or is the desire to be lavished with
should look like? Is there a normal anymore? Or praise and likes the new conversation, even if
is this based on who receives the most likes? it is damaging below the transparent surface of
In a world where you dont know if what you hashtags and the wannabe-famous?

11
MULVEYS
CHANGING GAZE
The Male Gaze in a digital age and its
effects on the self-hood, identity and
self-esteem of social media users
Photography: Playboy
1975 saw Mulvey coin The Male Gaze, a
theoretical perspective which has domincated
the media over the past 30 years in many ways.
As much as it has dominated, it has also
changed perspectives and perceptions when
it comes to the fashion and beauty industries,
and in recent times with the rise of social
media, has become a notion as to also how
to create tailored content to appeal to a
certain audience; but perhaps with the wrong
intentions, and with undesired side effects
stimulating a cycle of self-esteem, confidence
and identity issues.
Wishpond claim that there are 7.3m daily active
users on Instagram alone, generating on average
575 photo likes and 81 comments per second
per day. And with this, a 2017 study carried out
in the UK with 1,500 14-24 year olds, found
that Instagram has been rated the worst app
for mental health issues, affecting users self-
esteem and body image, due to a constant
feed and infux of imagery showcasing ideals,
filtered selfies and body shots. This has led to
social media being recognized as having the
same effects on ones self-perception as the
male gaze, due to an internalisation of an
ideal image which one comes to recognise
as normal. The male gaze is a term coined
by feminist film theorist Laura Mulvey in her
groundbreaking and renowned 1975 essay Visual
Pleasures and Narrative Cinema which explores
a world of sexual imbalance, where a pleasure
of looking has primarily been of the active male,
and the passive female, who becomes the
display with the pre-determined intention of
look at me.
13
THEgaze
a world of sexual imbalance, where a pleasure
of looking has primarily been of the active male,
and the passive female, who becomes the
display with the pre-determined intention of
look at me.
The gaze has been seen in the media for
decades, in the editorials of Vogue, in porn, and
through key establishments such as Playboy,
shaping how women are perceived by men, and
in turn how they perceive themselves. In the
1950s Playboy Bunnies in Chicago, whereby
they were objects of both male attention and
the male gaze due to their uniforms, in turn
becoming the ideal and sex symbols of the era.
Shields and Heinecken stated that this can be
overwhelming, and in turn, distorted, whereby,
one becomes unable to recognise the ideal,
nor reality, adding additional pressure to look
a certain way and conform to a socio-culturally
pre-set norm derived from such gazes.
Theorist Shields expands on this, explaining
the male gaze theory in everyday terms;
allowing for women to be seen as objects of
the heterosexual mans eye, and claims that
it is this awareness which allows for women to
adopt different perspectives to see themselves
through the eye of the third person. This allows
one to view themselves in this way opposed
to how they actually see themselves, judging
others in the same vein also - through a male
eye. In addition, by adopting this view point, one
becomes aware of what the male wants to see,
pre-empting this notion through dress, body and
beauty. Mulvey calls this the female gaze stating
that women see themselves through the eyes
of men, therefore influencing our choices on
what is perceived and deemed attractive by the
opposite sex, or the male gaze.
By adhering, one is put under constant pressure
feeling the gaze consciously, even if self-led. In
a digital age though, this gaze is also felt under
lenses and screens, with one being in complete
control as to how they project their own image,
often being aware that one is being gazed at,
for either positive or negative critique and
judgement. This is often seen in the feeds of
14
Instagram, even now under the beauty-sphere,
with bloggers adopting these approaches to self-
promote; the tides have turned from primary
uses within fashion and editorial advertising.
Writer, Liu, summarises this notion perfectly;
social media makes this a time when the visual
begins to take prominence over the real. Instead
of experiencing our lives from our own vantage
points, we now see the world from how others
will view and respond to our vantage points.
When we are all responsible for creating our
own media, we are always visible and therefore,
always seen.
Johnson (2008, P.207), pins this thought of
vantage points on the ideology of a brand, or
self-branding marketing strategies as often seen
with influencers adopting porn chic style
promotions and campaigns, noting that;
product [or brand] ambassadors ... [are not]
aimed at selling anything specific, but instead
work to give a brand a certain set of values or a
certain emotional association. This however in
turn aims to change ones sense of self through
reflected and standardised/advertised ideals,
and gazes, which can ultimately be dangerous for
the one creating the content, and those viewing
it. However as social media has led to males also
becoming more prominent in the fashion and
beauty industries, and gender is considered
more equal this has blurred boundaries and
has also taken away the stereotyping that the
male gaze once was. Now, this has become
generalised as the gaze and has become more
subjective than ever.
The various representations of both male and
female ideals which social media in particular
promote, can be said to confuse ones self-
perception and the understanding of what the
ideal is, and therefore what beauty, or body
image is. This confusion and internalisation
can lead to the self-surveying gaze which can
overwhelm one and in turn will be no longer able
to recognise ones true perception opposed to a
perceived perception.
Rumsey, another theorist and writer, claims that,
beauty ideals by showing certain body sizes
[as...] beautiful and desirable insinuating that
the media is responsible for choosing who and
what is seen as the ideal, shaping and creating
unattainable and unmaintainable aspirations for
both men and women. This can lead to eating
disorders, body image issues, mental health
problems and further issues with confidence
and self-esteem, for example. This has since
been confirmed through studies and user-led
surveys. Photo sharing platforms and photo-
led applications allow for users to critique
themselves, and the more these platforms/apps
are used the more critiquing and self-evaluating
may take place, altering ones self-perception
due to internalising of a pre-determined ideal,
or image.

Fellow writer Klein, also notes that social

media makes social comparisons even more
competitive due to having likes, comments and
followers to gage their self-worth and beauty
PERCEPTIONS
from, in some cases establishing their level of ARE NOT SHAPED
confidence and self-esteem. The higher the
number, the better ones self-perception is. The EXCLUSIVELY BY
lower the number, the lower the self-esteem.
A vicious cycle, which is no good for any social
WHAT SOCIAL MEDIA
media user, and shows how damaging these PROFILE USERS
image-led platforms can be.
DISCLOSE ABOUT
Even though images are constructed, curated, THEMSELVES BUT
edited and filtered to project an ideal and
positive image, or more accurately, how ALSO BASED ON
someone wants to be perceived, Hong notes that
perceptions are not shaped exclusively by what
OTHERS COMMENTS.
profile users disclose about themselves but also THIS IS NOW CALLED
based on others comments, being titled the
warranting principle; judgments from other-
THE WARRANTING
generated information is more influential than PRINCIPLE IN THE
judgments from self-generated material. This
allows for a whirlwind of self-perception issues DIGITAL AGE
to be sparked and further stimulated, allowing
for one to value and judge self-worth and be a tipping point for these platforms when
perceptions based on others opinions opposed sensors are placed and rules are put in place to
to ones own thoughts. Third person perspectives protect users, or is there going to be educational
instilled through socio-cultural influences materials showing how such platforms can be
and expectations build an ideal image which damaging? Or we will, as a society, continue to
for some is unrealistic and unmaintainable or self-derail and damage each others wellbeing,
attainable leading to a barrage of problems. self-hood and self-identity for our own security
This leads to the question; is there going to and positive approval?

15
SEX
SEX
SEX
XXX

SELLS
SELLS
SELLS
 THE BACKLASH
OF SOCIAL MEDIA
How mental health and eating disorders are
affected and impacted by the rise in social
media and image-led applications
In the UK alone there are currently 1.6m people
whom are suffering with an eating disorder,
whilst 1 in 4 people are known to suffer from a
mental health issue such as depression,
or anxiety.
The fashion industry has always relished at the
ideology of a super-skinny model walking down
the catwalk of NYFW, or featuring amist the
glossy pages of Vogue magazine. The magazine
industry itself has never shyed away from
publishing images of the slim ideal figures
the general public are made to feel like they
need to compare themselves to; from Victoria
Beckham and the Size 0 Revolution to the
everyday supermodel legs of Lily Cole which
every Westerner adorned to. It is not often you
see a plus-size model, or even an average size
model in te pages of magazines. Crystal Renn
was lucky to appear in ad campaigns showcasing
her womanly curves a handful of times, with the
media trying to prove a point, however the ultra-
slim always prevailed.
18
Now with the rise of social media, this has again
risen, however this time there are no rules,
no guidelines or restrictions and no B-EAT so
advise on what images may be damaging to the
vulnerable. There is no control. And even though
magazines have never promoted a normal,
attainable nor maintainable figure, they still had
guideance should they desire, or seek to follow
it. Now with everyone being a curator of their
own feed, we now have thinspiration Instagram
accounts going viral, with anyone, anywhere and
of any age being able to access images
and accounts.
On average, a female aged between 18-24 spends
2 hours a day on social media platforms. This
may not sound like a great amount of time, but
added up over a week, a month and a year, the
images one views can grow to be percieved as
normal. Research suggests that the amount of
time spent on social networks was associated
with greater self-objectification. Women, in
particular have been known to compare

themselves to other women; and women
compare everything - height. size, hair length,
makeup. Its just something women do that
is to label themselves in comparison to others.
When a person compares their own inner or
self image to an image that has been filtered, or
edited, or even shot and curated to be shown
on social media, it can pose the threat to self-
objectification and self-absorption. When self
comparisons take place that person looks at
themselves as the spectator or observer.
And it is this third party viewpoint which
echos that of an eating disorder and of body
dysmorphia issues. B-EAT claim that the media
(social, digital and print) is not soley responsible
for the fruition of eating disorders, but can
contribute to the development of one through
exposure to a range of unhealthy and unrealistic
body image expectations.
Even though there is pressure put on the public
to reach an ideal figure, weight or look to fit in
with socio-cultural expectations, the pressure is
also on for those who project this image to the
consumers of society; the models.
Ulrikke Hoyer, a Danish high-fashion model, was
told running up to a Japanese Louis Vuitton show
in May 2017, that was she was too big to walk
the runway despite being a UK size 4. In response
to being told to only drink water for 24 hours
to reduce bloating, Hoyer stated on
1.6M PEOPLE IN THE UK
ALONE SUFFER FROM
AN EATING DISORDER
Instagram, Im 20 years old; not a 15 year old
girl, who is new to this industry and unsure
about herself, because I have no doubt that
I would then have ended up very sick and
scarred. Hoyer claims that casting agents
would attend breakfast to see if she had being
defying orders of eating; I know that demands
and expectations given to the high end fashion
models in the industry are often completely
unattainable and directly damaging to the human
body, but I cannot accept the normality in the
behaviour of people like this. They find pleasure
in power over young girls and will go to the
extreme to force an eating disorder on you.
It appears that whether you are a viewer, or a
model, in the digital age and the modern world
of fashion you are always put in the firing line,
and in the view of criticism and judgement which
can damage one mentally and physically.
With Instagram being rated the worst app for
mental health issues by a total of 1500 14-24
year olds in the UK, this poses the question of
whether there ever be a balance of healthy is
beautiful? This rating not only covered eating
disorders, but also covered other mental health
issues such as depression, anxiety and loneliness
which are triggered by living in a digital age. Is
enough being done to protect the mindsets of
younger generations who are susceptible to
images and thoughts of what is in and liked
being right?
19
@ssssamanthaa
She learns that to be desired,
is much more important than
to feel desire.
@jamiegenevieve
@desiperkins
 PORN CHIC &
OBJECTIFICATION
How the ideologies of porn chic and
self-objectification have transitioned
and developed due to social media
Porn chic has become a sensation amongst
social media, being a daily occurance on our
social media feeds. We scroll through daily and
see an array of pouted lips, enhanced breasts
and curvaceous derrires, with bloggers,
celebrities and normal girls, often posing in
over sexualised, and objectifying positions;
craving attention and reassurance. And with this,
this behaviour has become the norm, and what
some expect to see. Furthermore, porn chic
sells in a multitude of ways, just as sex always has
done. Writer Annette Lynch describes the term,
porn chic in relation to females as, actively
desiring sexual objects of the new millenium
who are aware and concious of the male gaze,
opposed to being passive, mute objects of the
male gaze, therefore lending itself to marketing
strategies and the social media stratosphere
of being accepted, approved, seen and most
importantly, liked, desired and adored. One
now intentionally puts themselves in this
28
porn chic bracket, leadingto self-
objectification, whilst seeking desire to create a
following and sell their brand, product and lives.
Does this mean that women feel empowered
with the guise of female sexuality? Or do these
changes now constitute what is seen as a step
forward for women, with one now being able
to express their sexuality, needs and desires,
opposed to being directed by others to create a
visage of visuals, often stimulated by misogyny;
male photographers and art directors, working
to stimulate a predominantly male audience?
Times appear to of changed this percepion and
ideology drastically.
Fashion has always gone hand-in-hand with
trend-led and marketed constructions of
gender, identity, and now, self-objectification,
seeing brands such as American Apparel, Tom
Ford and Wrangler, buildind brands and empires
through sex and porn chic-led imagery.

However, now this strategy has overtaken fashion
and now sells beauty and the influencers and/
or internet celebrities which coincide and
face brands and promotional campaigns. Some
beauty bloggers have even built their following
and career based on their physique, opposed to
their makeup artistry skill set; an ironic twist, to
modern day contradictions and conventions of
the industry.
Influencers all around the world are now
showcasing their finest assets in return for
brand sponsorships and endorsements. This
self-objectification alienates women, allowing
one to view their body as a separate object
of the male gaze and desire. The decision to
reveal leads women to feel empowered due to
their ability to attract the male gaze, rather than
be subjected to it unknowingly. One is fully in
control over their body and behaviour, and to
some reinforces different types of feminisim
and strengths.
Fredrickon and Roberts have researched
into how social media may lead women to
self-objectify themselves, however, through
comparisons with others in their positions;
when a person compares their own inner or
self-image to an image that has been filtered
on social media it can pose the threat to self
objectification and self absorption. When self
comparisons take place that person looks at
themselves as the spectator or observer.
REVEALING LEADS
WOMEN TO FEEL
EMPOWERED DUE TO
ATTRACTING THE
MALE GAZE
self-objectification and self-absorption. When
self-comparisons take place that person looks
at themselves as the spectator or observer,
therefore realising how they want to position
and promote themselves, and therefore how
they want to be percieved.
But does porn chic and self-objectification
affect self-perceptions and the perceptions of
others? It has been found that the amount of
time spent on social networks was associated
with greater self-objectification. Women
have a long history of being objectified in the
media from television, music videos, and print
magazines, why would the objectification just
stop at these mediums, especially in a society
where we live day-to-day in the digital age? It
appears that as time moves on, so does the
mentality of such ideologies and how these are
played out over time, also.
Some can argue that women push the ideology of
porn chic and self-objectification due to issues
with low self-esteem, vanity, or insecurities,
as well as comparative traits, which may be
amplified through social media, therefore
posting and using such provocative images on
the same mediums, reinforces their acceptance
through the approval of others.
29
 the 101

HOW
TO BE
SOCIAL
MEDIA
FAMOUS
 lights
camera
action
the key to successful
fashion marketing;

tits, arse, skin,

provocative poses
and celebrities.
 climbing the beauty
blogger ladder;

take selfies, try to be

original and wait for
likes and reassurance.
selfie
selfie
selfie
 like,
so many
likes
 what to pack
for your holiday;

camera, vlog camera,

iphone, mini ring light,
highligter and sass.
 what to do;

hire a photographer,
find a good location,
take 5 outfits worth
of photos in a day and
remember, act like no
one is watching.
strike
a pose
 get
some style
 what to wear;

buy loads of designer

shit you cant afford,
and send it back until
you get sent the real
deal from their PR.
 02.
EASTERN
CROSS-CULTURE
ECONOMY
OF BEAUTY
Chinas booming live-streaming video
industry fuelled by beauty, fashion and the
wannabe-famous
Models: Various
Photography: VICE ft. Motherboard
Blogger and vlogger culture in the UK and US
has reached an all time high. Everywhere you
go influencers are there; on POS (point of sale)
for cosmetic products, promoting clothes
in Topshop or on your Instagram or YouTube
feed. China has jumped on board with this
phenomenon, with a blogger empire of their
own, but has also launched interactive live-
streaming video services.
These services take form of online apps and
websites, ran by large media agencies across
Beijing, that are already becoming multi-
million dollar empires. Males and females alike
are broadcasting their lives, talents, sense
of style and beauty in return for cash, gifts
and confidence boosting praise in return for
internet stardom and status.
The recent broadband-quick rise in popularity
in China of apps such as Lai Feng, and the
people who broadcast on them, has caused a
new branch of the internet technology industry
to spring up around it. This industry being the
live-streaming culture which both males and
females in China are desperate to be apart of
with potential to earn the equivalent of $100,000
a month, simply by broadcasting their talents
and lives to their viewers, followers or fans.
Agencies have been set up around the country,
mainly in Beijing which house the live-streamers
and act as a backdrop for their videos doting to
their every need. The REDO Media agency for
example, has around 3,000 internet stars on its
books from across China, many of whom self-
broadcast as their full-time jobs.
45
 ECONOMYofbeauty

many of whom self-broadcast as their full-time

jobs. Some simply talk, some dance, some sing,
some dress up and perform what their viewers
ask, and some simply answer questions. What
they do is their choice, however they often have
to audition to be apart of larger agencies such
as REDO.

Behind each door at REDO Media, is a small

dormitory-style room, with broadcasters
streaming from a tripod-mounted iphone
or webcam. The broadcasters perform and
interact, live, for real money and digital gifts.
At times, they are even sent gifts by their
followers. Some will even dress to please their
audience; sometimes as mermaids and other
times as princesses.

Due to the spike in the amount of people

watching these streamers live over the past
year, doing this full time has become a lucrative
job for thousands of women. Women self-
broadcasters in China massively outnumber men
by around nine to one. This however in a beauty
and fashion fuelled world, hardly surpising.

Even though there is a fetish element at times

involved, be it dress-up or simply watching
the broadcaster eat their evening meal, the
fascination is real and has expanded beyond
fantasy to brand marketing; similar to the
influencer and blogger empires built in the
West. Some are paid to wear particular clothing
brands, and even help design them. Tabao and
11/11, Chinese clothing brands, send out clothing
to be worn on live-streams and for fashion-
streamers to talk about the products in detail.
Sales for key on-trend garments at times, have
risen by 80%, simply due to this marketing
strategy. A main selling point and strategy of
the live-streaming apps and websites is to use
beautiful males and females. Some, as young as
20 years old, admit to having various aesthetic
surgeries carried out to fit in with the ideal look
of China; lip implants, double eye-lid surgery
and facial alterations to give one a slimmer
face. This influence coming in from the Korean
market heavily dictates who is taken on board by
agencies, and some will go to the extremes of

47
ECONOMYofbeauty

having such work done simply to pursue live-

streaming as a career path; even if only for a few EARNING $100,000 A
short-lived years. MONTH IS EASY IN THIS
Even though agencies such as REDO Medias INDUSTRY. IF SOMEONE
female self-broadcasters are largely chosen
for their attractiveness, they rarely do anything
SENDS ME A GIFT ILL
racier on camera than show a bit of cleavage. SAY, OH, DID YOU GIVE
Authorities in China have clamped down hard
on the industry over the past year in an attempt ME A GIFT? I DIDNT SEE
to eliminate inappropriate content from the IT. CAN YOU PLEASE
web, shutting down thousands of live-stream
accounts. Last November a 21 year-old woman SEND IT AGAIN?
from Chengdu was jailed for four years for live-
streaming herself enjoying a foursome. In May
that same year, erotic banana eating in live-
streams was banned.

Even though live-streaming video apps in the

West such as Periscope are popular, in the UK
and US, viewers cannot pay the broadcaster.
At most, this comes from a brand or sponsor;
echoing many YouTube tutorials and Instagram
posts. China seems to of found a way to please
the viewer, whilst also gaining something
in return for the broadcaster, other than
popularity and internet stardom and internet
celebrity status.

In regard to gifting, and personal gain,

some females such as Zi Jing, a 23 year-old
broadcaster, uses coyness and naivety. Zi claims
to use sneaky tactics, as well as this real-ness,
contributing to her success; if someone sends
me a gift Ill say, Oh, did you give me a gift? I
didnt see it. Can you please send it again?

But how satisfying is making a living letting

people watch you all day through your iPhone?
Does it make the broadcasters and their parents
proud? Zi insists it does. My mum thinks being
a broadcaster is not easy. She supports me. But
in the long-run how could this affect a sense of
normality, self-confidence and self-worth? Do
we value ourselves based on the gifts we recieve
and and the number of viewers? What happens
when another broadcaster takes the top spot
in the ratings? Food for thought perhaps as one
contemplates ths new digital realm.

48
49
Attractiveness of Japanese women
was rated the highest for light skin
Tagal et al for Shiseido, (2016)
JAPANESE
BEAUTY
Revealing how the East differs to the West
in the beauty world; from ideals to trends
and product innovation

Models: Lauren de Graaf, Zhenya Migovych, Katherine

Moore, Ally Ertel, Luping Wang and Angelica Erthal.
Makeup: Emi Kaneko
Photography: Nicholas Kantor

Warchocki states that in regard to body image

and beauty trends, fashion magazines are
considered a main source of information
regarding the attractive ideal posing as a
sourcebook of unattainable, nor maintainable
looks. This is known to be due to an influx of
advertisements and product endorsements that
present such looks and products in a way that
evokes consumers to buy them (Gonzalez), in
an aim to achieve the proposed ideal.
This movement is however moving away from
traditional fashion advertisements as seen in
the past 2-3 years, influenced by the rise of
beauty trends and brands, therefore propelling
advertising into a realm. This is evident
especially in Japan where not only fashion
magazines are on offer, full glossy beauty
magazines can also be seen on the shelves,
unlike in the West, launching a constant
emphasis on looking young and light skin.
Whilst proving to be a good sales technique
of enticing a consumer into a dream world of
aesthetics, this also enforces the ideology that
with such products, one may also look this way
and achieve such image in return, therefore
affecting ones self-perception, self-hood
and individuality.
But why in Japan is there an emphasis on
facial looks opposed to physiques? Enticing a
consumer into a dream world of aesthetics, this
ideology of full-beauty magazines also enforces
the ideology that with such products, one may
also look this way and achieve such image in
return, therefore affecting ones self-esteem and
body image.

53
JAPANESEbeauty
It is apparent that Western and Japanese socio-
cultural ideals and aspirations are different.
The West have an emphasis on a pursuit to
perfection, replicating celebrity, icons, or model
looks, whilst Japan maintains a focus on Western
culture and socio-cultural, historical traditions.
Unlike Western women whom often cherish their
beauty of diversity and race, Ashikari claims
that in contrast, Japanese women strive to be
white in order to negate from a us and them same approach, hammering home a constant
dichotomy, whilst also being influenced by the
media denoting ideals through international
advertising and marketing campaigns.
The dichotomy regards class and social status
in Japan rooting back to the 1800s. Japanese
beauty blogger Nicole Takahashi explains; those
whom worked manual labour jobs outside gained
a tan, and were therefore deemed by society to
be poor, whilst those who worked inside, were
lucky enough to keep their light skin, in turn
exuding a more affluent status. For Western
women this dichotomy is often hard to relate
to, with the polar opposite being key to their
lifestyles and ideals; being tanned means one
has been on holiday, and has enough money or
the privilege to do so, whilst also stemming back
to fashion runway shows such as Victoria Secret,
whereby all the models are bronzed, deeming a
sexy look.
In theoretical terms for context, this correlates
with Tajfel and Turners (1986) social identity
model, whereby in-group and out-group
comparisons are prevalent in day-to-day lives,
contrasting with how Western cultures implies
this through a more digital, celebrity and icon
led trend, rather than being influenced by
historical and socio-cultural roots.
By intergroup comparison, whether in the
West, or in Japan one can tell compare their
looks and strive to be apart of a group through
aesthetic changes. In the West this is done
through tanning and glamour, whilst in Japan,
skin-lightening and youthful, beautiful skin
takes precedent, mimicking what they expect
the ideal Western to also be like, whilst also
echoing back to the tradition of the Geisha.
54
Wagatsuma argues that the notion of white/
beautiful versus black/ugly originates from
a preference of whiteness being rooted in
Japanese peoples own history combined with
a huge Westernised consumer culture. This
culture is often seen in department stores;
Western brands such as LOreal will still use
Western models for the campaigns, whilst
Japanese brands such as Shiseido will take the
ideal of an ideal light skinned woman being
the face of modern day beauty. In Japanese
culture, Western models will feature in highbrow
magazines such as Vogue Japan, mimicking
this socio-cultural ideal. Muramatsu, the
Beauty Director at Vogue Japan states that if
an ideal Western model cant be booked for a
photoshoot, Western-looking Japanese models
will be used giving the Japanese a symbol of
aspiration and affluence to strive towards and
buy into.
Cash et al. conducted a study for Japanese
beauty and skincare brand Shiseido in 2016,
claiming that applying facial cosmetics affects
womens self-image positively even if in Japan
this denotes youthful, natural skin. Takahashi
also claims that the typical Japanese woman
applies makeup often to look like there is not
makeup on, rather using cosmetics to polish
perfect, light skin, opposed to focusing on heavy
and glamourous makeup trends which are often
seen in the West, and this is reinforced through
beauty editorials as often seen in the Japanese
editions of Vogue and Harpers Bazaar. The
Shiseido study also found that, attractiveness of
Japanese women was rated the highest for light
makeup faces, opposed to heavy makeup faces.
This is reflected through the range of beauty
products available in Japan, most of which
embody; skin-lightening, and anti-aging. Kikuchi
et al. states that, aging has a negative effect
on the skin that is important for aesthetic
evaluation of the face ... revealing that aging
increases colour heterogenity, meaning a
wide range of beauty products are available
to counteract this natural change, whilst also
conforming with the ideal look of white skin.
56
 JAPANESEbeauty

Western skin as popularised through advertising,

magazines and consumer culture. The range THOSE WHOM
of beauty-led products in Japan reinforces WORKED OUTSIDE
this through the use of copywriting and model
selection. Anti-aging products in Japan often GAINED A TAN, AND
include collagen and placenta extracts, coming
in the form of creams, cosmetics, supplements,
WERE THEREFORE
face masks and drinks. DEEMED TO BE POOR;
Products of this bizarre nature to Western WHILST THOSE WHO
women, claim to give babyish skin, hinting at WORKED INSIDE, KEPT
youthfulness. The advertisements and product
packaging however show this in a perverted THEIR LIGHT SKIN,
manner, opposed to using youthful models.
Images often used showcase Western babies
EXUDING AN AFFLUENT
to endorse such product traits and contents. STATUS..
This itself shows an extreme cultural obsession
with youthfulness. It is worth noting however in
context, that Japanese child pornography was
only made illegal in 2014, hammering home how
popular youth and baby culture is in Japan
across an array of markets.

In addition, many cosmetics brands such as

Maybelline in Japan, are promoted using fair
skinned Japanese models with blonde hair
and blue eyes, echoing and promoting the
stereotypical Western ideal woman, which are
often shown in various magazine editorials and
advertising campaigns.

It is evident that even though the Japanese

ideal stems back to a historical, socio-cultural
background, there is an influx of Westernised
consumer culture which influences the self-
perceptions of many, in order to achieve a
desired look which is not natural for ones race
nor ethnicity, even though deemed the ideal.
It can be thought however, that on the flip side
how in Western society would one feel and react
to being constantly bombared with images of
Japanese women? How would this affect the
perceptions of women? Will we ever know..

57
NICOLE
TAKAMOTO
Japanese beauty blogger Nicole reveals
secrets and truths about the Eastern
beauty industry in this candid interview
Photography: Nicole Takamoto
Japanese beauty blogger Nicole Takamoto
writes two beauty blogs, The Beauty Maniac in
Tokyo and Beau Tea Time, runs the Instagram
star (@nicintokyo) and writes for Japanese
blogs and magazines, including GLAM and Look
Fantastic Japan, however Nicole states that
the differences between the beauty industries
in the East and West are still considerably
different despite having International icons.
Takamoto reveals secrets of Japanese beauty
compared to what we know in Western culture,
exploring an unknown world to many, where
bloggers dont recieve as much recognition as
magazine writers and editors, unless you are
kawaii. Its known that Japan doesnt hold
blogger events and if youre lucky enough
to get invited to a press event you may only
see women between the ages of 30 to 50
years old, instantly showing a vastly different
demographic and target audience.
With the industry taking a different route in
Japan to the West, blogging is a different ball
game, and content seen often reflects this
culture and audience.
If you have ever read any Japanese beauty blogs
or glossy beauty-led magazines, it is evident
that trends and ideals are different, with older
women taking precedent. Japanese women
are big on skincare, youthfulness and skin-
lightening, opposed to the glamourous celebrity
inspired looks of the West which teenagers and
adults don daily.
In this candid interview Takamoto talks openly
about the differences in the beauty industries,
and gives examples of the differences of beauty
standards and secret routines which dominate
the Japanese beauty culture today, giving a taste
of what she often blogs about and relays to her
International and Japanese readership alike.
59
NICOLEtakahashi
What does a typical skincare routine in Japan
consist of?
Here are the differences I see between Western
and Japanese skincare:
1. Cotton pads: Japanese people are said to
have thinner skin that is prone to discolouration
compared to Western people. Rubbing your
skin causes unwanted pigmentation, which is
why Japanese people are very careful not to rub
their skin too much. When it comes to cleansing,
they prefer to use a cleanser that washes away
waterproof eye makeup instantly rather than
using an eye makeup remover with a cotton pad.
Micellar water isnt as popular in Japan as it is in
the UK. Some people also pat-dry their skin with
a towel, rather than wiping their skin with it to
avoid friction.
2. Lotion: One of my American friends once told
me, When you say lotion in the States, it means
a thick moisturiser, which is completely different
from what you call lotion in Japan.
In Japan, lotion is a water-like liquid that
balances your pH after washing your face. When
you use a cleanser or soap, your skin becomes
alkaline. As your natural pH balance is mildly
acidic, you must use lotion to bring it back to
that healthy state. Also, Japanese lotion usually
contains quite a few different ingredients
that are good for your skin such as hyaluronic
acid, ceramides and collagen. Lotion is usually
applied with hands rather than a cotton pad, but
recently some brands started recommending
using a cotton pad for an even application, so
the usage of cotton pads is increasing. I must
also add that the quality of cotton pads is much
better in Japanthey are very soft, dont fluff
easily and there are different types according to
your liking.
3. Emulsion: I personally am not familiar with
emulsion because I mainly use Western skincare
products, but emulsion ( Nyuueki) is very
popular in Japan. Normally its looser and lighter
than moisturiser, and contains more moisture
than creams.
62
What about the morning route? Is this different,
or the similar?
The must-have items in a Japanese womans
beauty cabinet are makeup remover, cleanser,
lotion, serum and emulsion or moisturiser. In
addition to that, eye cream, oil and sheet masks
are always commonly used.Unless we are talking
specifically about a woman who is massively into
beauty, women usually dont switch up their
skincare routines that much.
Makeup remover: Oil and milk cleansers are
popular. Just like cotton pads, muslin cloths
used to wipe the cleanser off arent common
in Japan. Most of the Japanese oils, milks,
creams and balm cleansers can be washed off
completely with warm water.
IN JAPAN YOU WEAR
SUNBLOCK EVERYDAY,
WE DO NOT HAVE FAKE
TAN. MAINTAINING
PALE SKIN IS VERY
IMPORTANT FOR
JAPANESE PEOPLE
Cleanser/face wash: Japanese women dont care
for cleansers much. Drugstore ones sell well.
Lotion and emulsion: As mentioned earlier,
lotion and emulsion are must-haves when it
comes to Japanese skincare. Albion, SK-II and
Ipsa are all popular.
Serum: Women in Japan look to serums that
have anti-ageing, whitening and brightening
benefits.
Sun protection: In Japan, its common knowledge
that you must wear a sunblock every single day
all-year round. Tanning is not common at all (we
do not have fake tan in Japan). Maintaining pale
skin is very important for Japanese women.
How does it differ to say a Korean routine? Or
the British routine of cleanse and moisturise?
Im not sure about Korean beauty regimens,
because I personally am not a big fan (Korean
pharmaceutical affairs law is not as strict as what
it is in Japan, which means their products are
more effective and can be very harsh. I always
break out when I use a Korean products).
Contouring is big on social media in the UK and
U.S. at the moment. What are the big makeup
trends in Japan right now?
When it comes to skincare, I believe Japan is
a step ahead compared to Western countries,
but makeup wise, not so much. We value the
beautiful and healthy state of the skin, rather
than piling up a lot of makeup on. Sheer and
natural foundation is more common than heavy
coverage foundation. Recently, some magazines
started talking about contouring, and some
brands like Cezanne brought out contouring
products, but not many.
The trends I have seen recently are coloured
eyebrows and coloured eyeliners. Though
Japanese people are usually very conservative,
recent trends suggest more playful looks.
What Japanese beauty products and ingredients
do you think would do well in the UK?
Japanese consumers are very curious about
beauty products. They want to know what they
are paying for, why the product is effective, and
how it works. This means the brands usually list
the active ingredients, so Japanese women tend
to have a good knowledge of ingredients. They
value how it feels and how the skin reacts, rather
than thinking in a very analytical way as Japanese
women do. Hyaluronic acid has been well-known
in Japan for more than 15 years (possibly 20
years), but its just became popular in the UK
in the past couple of yearsI am not sure if it
was because there were not so many products
containing the ingredient or none of the brands
marketed it.
Ceramides should be more popular in the UK [Ed
note: Ceramides are lipid molecules naturally
occurring in the skin that help retain moisture
and keep the skin plump]. It is an incredibly well-
known ingredient in Japan, and in some sense
its better than hyaluronic acid.
We Brits look to women like Kate Moss and
Alexa Chung as modern beauty icons, and then
back to women like Brigitte Bardot and Twiggy.
Who are the Japanese womens beauty icons?
I much prefer Kate Moss to any Japanese beauty
icons, to be honest (because Japanese women
love a cute appearance rather than beautiful,
or even sexy look).
Are there any beauty lessons, tricks or rituals
British women could learn from Japanese
women?
1. Do not rub your skin. It will cause pigmentation
especially around the eyes! My heart stops
when I watch a YouTube video and find a beauty
blogger rubbing their eyes with a cotton pad or
muslin cloth SO HARD!
2. Wash your hair every day. It might not apply
to the girls in the U.K. because of the water (we
have soft water, which doesnt dry out the skin
and hair), but for Japanese people, the idea of
not washing the hair every day is just disgusting!
Forget about your hair for a minute, we think of
the scalp as being the same skin as the face, so
we cannot go to work or meet friends without
washing our hair. Regularly washed hair doesnt
equate to damaged hair in Japan. Also, we use
hairdryers all the time. I cant leave my scalp
damp. It causes odour and irritation.
3. Wear SPF all-year round, even when its
cloudy. UVA passes through clouds and windows;
you need SPF all the time if you want to maintain
the beautiful and healthy state of your skin!
For more Japanese beauty insights head to
Nicole in Tokyos blogs: The Beauty Maniac in
Tokyo (English) and Beau Tea Time (Japanese).
63
 For younger, more beautiful skin.
The new collagen infused drink from
the Shiseido Ginza lab.
 CHARLOTTE
STACEY
A Western perspective of beauty trends
and beauty culture in Japan

Article by/Model: Charlotte Stacey

MUA/Hair: Charlotte Stacey
Photography: Norijuki Edamatsu

Charlotte Stacey is a British beauty, trend and

makeup obsessed dancer and performer living
and working in Tokyo, Japan. For her day job
for the past 2 years, Charlotte has dressed up,
and performed as Disney Princesses at Disney
Tokyo, and has experienced an alternate,
magical and contrasting culture.

Living in Japan, a culture so far removed from

the West, that, perspective is everything when it
comes to diversity, beauty and the ideal.

This candid article reveals how a Westerner has

grown to percieve Eastern beauty trends and
culture first-hand in comparison to her own.

66
CHARLOTTEstacey
So this week whilst scrolling through my emails
I found out that I am officially a friend with
benefit. Wait, wait Its not how it sounds. Im
in the Friends with Benefit programme with
Benefit Cosmetics UK!
I have always LOVED make up and beauty
products from such a young age, mainly due
to my dance background. I would have dance
competitions and shows where Id wear thick,
dark foundation, blue eyeshadow and a red lip so
that people in the auditorium could see my facial
features in the bright stage lights. Weeks before
competitions were about to start, Id be caught
by my parents in my bedroom practicing my
make up. (In other words, playing with make up
too young but could use that as an excuse!).
Even way before that though, of course I have
the obligatory playing in mums make up
photograph, at maybe 1 or 2 years old, where its
smeared all over my face.
Fast forward and I am still wearing stage make
up everyday for my job! Now my performances
are up close and personal as well as far away
so every day has to be a good make up day. The
past few years I have also modelled for a range
of different things so Ive learnt a few tricks from
my MUAs Ive worked with too.
Dont get me wrong. If I can have a day without
make up, Ill take it, and it always feels great to
wash it all off after a long day. I dont rely on
make up to feel great. I dont put my confidence
down to the amount of make up I wear. I,
honestly, just love having it on!!
The ideal of beauty in England is very much
different to the ideal of beauty in Japan. Not
that I, personally, believe in an ideal beauty, I
hasten to add! What I mean to say is: I have left
a country selling fake tan and come to a place
selling skin whitener.
68
Here are some things Ive found whilst living here
in Tokyo that you definitely wouldnt find on the
shelves in Debenhams;
1. Skin whitener: Whilst Brits are known to
catch the rays at ANY given chance (remember
that Boots Summer Ad?! Ill link it below), the
Japanese hide every inch of skin in the hot and
humid Summers to protect the skin from the
sun. Tanning? Yokunai desu!
2. Eyelid tape and/or glue: pretty self
explanatory! A thin bit of tape or a smidge of
glue to stick to the eyelids to give the illusion
of a Western style crease in the upper eyelid,
without the surgery; an operation known as
blepharoplasty. There are also a type of glasses
(if I can call them that?!) which act as a type of
eyelid trainer! Wear it every night before bed
and youre supposed to eventually have the ever
so desirable big eyes!
3. Eye bag make up: whilst Westerners try and
cover dark circles with a variety of creams, gels
and concealers, the Japanese are contouring
under their eyes to make them darker and
more creased.
So the Easterners are trying to look more
Western and the Westerners are trying to look
more Eastern. Look at the Japanese advert for
Its Potent! Benefits dark circle eye cream,
for example, there is a beautiful asian woman
holding the product! And yet the Japanese
consider the gaijin face to have desirable
features; the big eyes and the high bridged nose.
You can go and do sticky pics, a very popular
photo booth experience here, which thins your
nose and face and you can choose how enlarged
your eyes want to be!
Due to their love of big, beautifully shaped eyes,
you can find the best false eyelashes and liquid
EASTERNERS TEND
TO LOVE THE SHAPE
OF A WESTERN FACE,
A SMALL FACE. SOME
JAPANESE GIRLS WILL
OPENLY EXPRESS
THEIR LIKINESS OF MY
KAO CHICHAI
eyeliner and for the best price here too; 100 Yen
store = KILLER falsies and the best liquid eyeliner
Ive ever tried! (100 is around 60p you find me night. Laying in a steaming hot bath with the
a shop in England that sells an amazing range of
decent eyelashes or easy to use liquid eyeliner
for 60p!!). Another easy thing to buy here are
coloured contact lenses Put it this way, you
start to realise very early on that the Japanese
love big, cartoon-like eyes! Easterners tend to
love the shape of a Western face, a small face.
I walk past Japanese girls who openly express
their fascination over my kao chichai.
4) Slim face products: masks, straps, creams
anything that attempts to basically shrink the
face. Again, this is instead of girls having to opt
for jaw reduction surgery!
I think Japanese features are beautiful and their
hair and skin are something else. Its probably
down to the beautiful hot springs (or onsen)
everywhere that are so widely used.by the
Japanese. Which is where I spend some of my
afternoons and evenings! There is a beautiful
onsen, called Urayasu Hot Spring Town I believe,
where I soaked my body in many hot springs
of various temperatures, a strawberry bath, a
collagen bath, a milk bath, cold baths, steam
rooms, saunas, you name it!
There are baths inside as well outside and we
were lucky because it was cold and rainy last
cold rain falling on you is the most wonderful
and relaxing experience ever. Then I showered
with the amazing products they have there. My
skin and hair feel fabulous. Silky, smooth. So
not forgetting, of course, the great lotions and
treatments they have here in Japan!
Im not a fan of all treatments though..
5) Placenta face masks; Im alright.. I have
generalised a lot here, and I know not everyone
will have these aesthetic desires and therefore
use all of these weird and wonderful beauty
products just because they are from a certain
country. Ive just been in Japan for a long
enough time to notice certain patterns. Its all
perspective NOT racial stereotypes! Regardless
of these so called ideals, Im a big believer of
loving yourself and being happy. If you want to
change something about your body, then do it.
If you dont, then dont. We get so wrapped up
in opinions about the way we look you wear
too much make up, you need to wear more,
when, really, you should just do you!
Whatever you do, dont you ever undervalue
what you are youre amazing.
69
 GOLDEN
GLOW
CREAM
Tan Deeper, Darker - Faster!
Skin
Lightening
Cream
Reveal your true radiance
Fashion magazines are considered a
main source of information regarding
the attractive ideal presenting looks
and products in a way that evokes
consumers to buy into them
Warchocki (2007) & Gonzalez, (2012)
KYOKO
MURAMATSU
Beauty Director Kyoko Muramatsu
reveals how Vogue Japan differs
cross-culturally to Western Editions
Model: Vittoria Ceretti
Photography: Luigi and Lango
Styling: Anna Della Russo
Hair: Luigi Murenu
Makeup: Georgi Sandev
Fashion magazines have a powerful hold and
influence over the reader; and in recent times
has expanded into the Beauty realm with Vogue
Japan leading the way with its mix of content.
The Industry magazine met with Kyoko
Muramatsu, the Beauty Director of Vogue
Japan (Nippon) to understand how Vogue
operates on an International scale and to
understand how Vogue differs cross-culturally
in regard to audience, trends, content and
aesthetic, as well as understanding how they
maintain their identity in a saturated market
of magazines.
How is Japanese culture reflected through
Vogue Nippon in comparison to Western
editions of Vogue?
Japanese Vogue is very different to the British or
American versions, for example, but we have our
reasonings. Our target audience is generally a lot
younger - Western editions are aimed at women
around 30 years old, but here, we find out
readership to be late-teens and early 20s. This is
seen to be honest through the aesthetic which
we use; its fun, playful and lighthearted in tone
of voice, which reflects youthfuless, something
Japanese women aspire to. We use a lot collage,
illustration and smaller design elements opposed
to heavy grid-led blocks of design and text. This
is just what we have found to work,
75
VOGUEjapan

but if you look at other Japanese magazines such as ViVi, Ginza

and Nylon, we still look older fitting in with the demographic that
Vogue sets out for us. I think in general as a nation we have a more
playful approach to editorial design, where as other editions are
a lot cleaner; theyre more affluent and stripped back, but I think
that we inject a lot of energy into our layouts and features.

We also have a lot of step by step guides. The Japanese audience

need to know how to use beauty products, which theyre investing
in so they want to know exactly how this works and will look when
use. I think this stems from a lack of imagination so to speak.
Western women are better in just putting themselves together,
where as even with fashion, women here need a bit more
guidance and direction.

I think another main difference and point of cultural difference

is the trends and products which are relayed in Vogue Japan; a
lot of them come from Korea and the catwalks, and tend to be
different to Western ones. We dont really have contouring or
heavy makeup, the women here want to look young, so youll often
see more natural looks and different takes on this being featured.
And of course, models. Now when we can we will use Japanese
models, but this is only where it is appropriate. Vogue has to
maintain an International identity, so you will see a lot of Western
models, and as many women here aspire to this look it is only
right to do so. When we do use Japanese models though, some
of them are half-Japanese, and half-American for example. This
gives an sense of identity still for the reader which one can relate
to, but it is also good to have more Western features shown in
the magazine. I suppose thats how our culture differs, people
here, mainly women, aspire to have light-skin and long legs, so in
a way we give them what they want whilst also fitting in with the
corporate image of Vogue, and keeping in line with the models
which youd see being use in International campaigns too.

So is this why Western models are used in fashion and beauty

advertisements in Japan, rather than recreating them with
Japanese models?

Yes. Campaigns, advertisements and editorials for example, are

normally art directed and shot in line with the brand image and
identity, therefore using the same model - it helps brands such
as Chanel, for example, to create an International brand identity.
But saying that, some brands may shoot the models differently if
the campaign will be seen nd used in more conservative countries,
but more often than not, you will see the same image being used,
but cropped in a different way. Its very clever, and it does keep
the costs of casting and re-shooting down. When it comes to
adverts through, you may of noticed that unlike British Vogue for

76
77
VOGUEjapan
example, we dont print as many in our
magazines. You will normally see them on
billboards or outside the shops themselves.
Instead to create a connection with the
Japanese reader, which can sometimes be lost,
we use a lot of advertorials which allows us to
choose location and message, for example. So
we may choose our own model, but use the same
products and clothing for example, which are
shown in the advert but we can tailor it more
to appeal to our audience more, whilst keeping
in line with our editorial aesthetic and take on
Vogue. Its more personal and we have creative
control. These are then approved by the brand
to ensure we are keeping to their identity.
Over the years there have only been 3 Japanese
women to feature?
Our choice of cover model is really important;
it defines the International identity of Vogue. It
also opens up the magazine to an International
audience, which is why the headlines are in
English with Japanese sub-text. The idea being
that anyone can understand the content, even
if they cant read the full article. But in terms of
cover model, yes, the Japanese relate to Western
icons. This is through commercialisation of
brands and consumerism, so we often have
a Western icon even if they are wearing
Japanese brands; it helps with sales and keeping
advertising campaigns consistent, but also keeps
the identity of the magazine true to Vogue.
What is Vogue Japans reaction to the rise in
blogger culture?
Well to be honest, Japanese fashion and beauty
bloggers are not as well known or recognised,
so when we feature an article relating to
bloggers we mainly do use Western bloggers or
Instagrammers. As a magazine, we dont feel that
we have found the right Japanese bloggers yet;
its still growing and isnt quite there yet as it is
in the West. Brands dont tend to use bloggers
to promote their products and campaigns here,
it is still very celebrity focused. Even in some
areas of Japan, bloggers are not recognised as a
legitimate source of information, and it is seen
78
VOGUE HAS TO
MAINTAIN A BROAD
INTERNATIONAL
IDENTITY, SO YOU
WILL SEE WESTERN
MODELS.
as a big risk to use them. Social media is very
popular, but not in the same way as in the UK
when it comes to marketing strategies. There is
a big fascination here with Western women and
their culture; their image, their style, their skin,
so we give the readers what they want and it
isnt often that bloggers fall into this category or
demand at the moment.
Do you feel as Director, that there is a pressure
to relay a positive body image to the reader?
Yes, of course. I think because Japanese women
want to be like, and aspire to gajins (foreigners)
we have to be careful but give them what they
want to read, but to not completely blur the
lines of achieveable and not attainable. We as
Japanese Vogue decided to not use the word
diet; we use the word healthy instead. We
dont want to give women the impression that if
one goes on a diet they will look like a Westener,
we want people to feel healthy in themselves,
and if anything enhance and maintain what they
have. And we also have the Health Initiative too.
What is The Health Initiative?
Its a pact between all 19 editions of Vogue, that
encourages a positive, healthy body image. We
have the power to influence people, and we want
to influence people in positive ways so we now
try to use models who are healthy and promote
a body image which is attainable and normal. I
know this sounds a little contradictory however
as we are a Japanese edition whom still use
Western models, but we are advised on which
models we cast, and thats why when we can we
do use Japanese or half-Japanese models.
 03.
BLOGGERS
& VLOGGERS
 vlogger, blogger;

INSTA
-GLAM ge t t h e l o o k
tte Stacey
with Charlo

Model: Charlotte Stacey

Photography & Art Direction: Danielle Muntyan
01 02

03 04

05 06

07 08
09 10

11 12

13
 @cuppa_char

Get the
Insta-Glam look!
Products are listed in stage order of application to help recreate
this Instagram ready look.

01 - 02 Revlon Photoready Airbrush Effect Foundation

01 - 02 Ben Nye Foundation
01 - 02 Kroyolan TV Paint Stick
01 - 02 Kroyolan Concealer Stick
03 - 04 Anastasia Beverley Hills Powder Contour Palette
05 - 06 Urban Decay Blush in Rapture
07 - 08 Benefit Brow Zings in Shade 2
07 - 08 Unbranded Japanese Brow Gel
09 - 10 Kylie Cosmetics The Burgundy Eyeshadow Palette
09 - 10 Tayila Eyelashes in T3000
09 - 10 Maybelline False Lash Mascara in Black Anastasia
011 Beverley Hills Moonchild Glow Kit
012 Ben Nye Lip Liner in Wine Berry
012 Sephora Matte Liquid Lipstick in Mauve
The increase in blogger culture,
particularly in relation to Instagram
and YouTube, has allowed for many
to reach celebrity status themselves;
and in return the media has adapted
to [this] reflecting the world of
celebrity dominance
Gibson, (2012)
 MANNY
X
JEFFREE
The worlds leading male makeup artists
and influencers talk reaching the top in
a female dominated industry

Models: Manny Gutierrez and Jefree Star

Makeup: Manny Gutierrez and Jefree Star
Photography: Jefree Star Cosmetics

Influencers and bloggers are becoming

extremely successful in the West, and thanks
to social media platforms this has expanded
beyond the stereotypical target market of
females.With only 23% (Vuelio, 2016) of beauty
bloggers being male, the gender divide is slowly
changing, whilst impacting the distortion of the
male gaze and perceptions at the same time.

Manny Gutierrez and Jeffree Star, are the most

influential male influencers of the 21st century.
With a celebrity status, 7m YouTube followers,
and 8m Instagram followers between them,
the male stars have recently teamed up with
a cosmetic collaboration of liquid lipsticks
and highlighters, taking over the beauty world
unlike seen before.

90
91
MANNYxjeffree

92
The beauty world can be tough to crack, but
Manny and Jeffree are no strangers to the
industry, and along their way to cosmetic
stardom have also changed the face of it; for
the good.
Each has their own story, but together
the powerhouse dominate social media,
sponsorships and product sales, leading to the
2017 collaboration of a limited edition set of on-
trend products compiling of two liquid lipsticks
and a highlighter; which sold out internationally
in less than a day. The notion of two males
releasing a makeup range has been recieved
warmly, with open arms, despite the industry still
being predominatley led by females.
Starting off as a MySpace star in the early
2000s, Jeffree was noticed for his pink hair and
outlandish makeup looks. Increasing followers,
and a change in the direction of social media
saw him push his way into the beauty scene as
a career path, working as a freelance make up
artist with celebrity clients, fashion editorials,
music videos and weddings.His success grew,
leading on to YouTube tutorials which became an
international sensation. Now, Jeffree is known
for his makeup master classes taught around
the world, and his own cosmetic line, branded,
Jeffree Star Cosmetics, claiming that the range
is for anyone who is fearless enough to be their
own person. Being a fan of makeup since he
was 13, Jeffree hopes to inspire each other to
stay true to who we are despite critism and
stereotyping, encouraging diversity and positive
self-hood.
Manny took a similar route to encouraging
differentiation in the beauty industry, using
Instagram as a platform to promote his artistry
skills and YouTube to showcase tutorials and
collaborative videos with Jeffree and influencer
Patrick Starrr alike. In 2015 it was announced
that an eyeshadow palette created with Makeup
Geek Cosmetics would be launched and sold
internationally. This single product caused such
an online sensation and hype, that it crashed the
sites servers within 1 hour of being released and
propelled his success to the next level. In 2016,
Manny was the first ever male ambassador for
Maybelline Cosmetics, appearing in a range
of campaign materials and videos. Now, he is
sponsored by the likes of, Urban Decay and Kylie
Cosmetics to promote and use products.
Even though the route to success sounds easy
for both male stars, Manny claims being a guy
made it hard; in the beginning, it was really
confusing; my parents and friends didnt know
what was going on, they thought I was trying
to become a woman; they didnt understand.
However, several years later the tides have
turned as he explains a recent encounter at a
meet and greet event in the US; a guy walked in,
he was 12 or 14 with a full face of makeup and his
dad was there, this macho man with blue jeans
and a cowboy hat. He was so proud of his son. It
felt like the world was changing in that moment.
Moments like these are some of the reasons
these particular influencers create content every
day. Inspiring men as well as women to embrace
what they love and who they are has become
their mantra, hence joining forces. Manny states
that, men want to feel the same way that women
feel [and be] empowered in that way. Clearly
their passion, drive, personality and candid
honesty has resulted in the world watching
and catching on - when both influencers were
starting out, male makeup artists were few and
far between on YouTube and Instagram.
But despite the positive demeanours, when your
career involves millions of people, trolls do come
out of the woodwork. I get hate every single
day, saying Im gay [and] going to hell, Now that
I have this platform, it makes me want to fight
even harder claims Manny. Jeffree falls under a
similar umbrella, being known for being different
and proud of it; no hate to anyone else, but all
these big YouTubers do the same shit: glowy,
bronzy, boring makeup, and Im like, Can we
have something else, please? Im stepping in.
It appears that despite facing negative
experiences, the positive impact of helping
others with their self-perception encourages an
ever-diversifying, positive beauty industry.
93
With enough work people can
construct the appearance that they
want. Such understanding emphasises
the visual, pointing towards a world of
gazes, mirrors and spectacles
Stratton (1996)
 MODERN
MUSE
Is social media taking over fashion
magazines thanks to digital muses;
elite bloggers and influencers?

Model: Aimee Song

Photography: Song of Style

At a time when less than 50% of

18-24 year old females read Fashion and
Beauty magazines, the world is turning into a
digital entity, allowing for not only magazines
to question their standing, but allowing for
everyday people to become part of the in-
group, and present themselves how they
want to be seen, in return for reassaurance
and likes, boosting ones self-esteem,
confidence and potential career goals in the
blogging realm. This instant accessibilty to,
and obsession with social media, allows for
one to create a style for themselves, and in
turn creating and curating their own digital
magazines, opposed to being dictated to by
monthly editors within publishing to dictate
what is in, or not. These magazines are YouTube, Twitter and Pintrest, which reaches
not page turners however, they are Instagram
feeds, online blogs and Pintrest accounts,
documenting their every move, every look
and style.
Aimee Song falls into this group. But not only
does she fall in to the group, she helped create
it. The first fashion blog appeared online in
2003, and Song of Style (Aimees blog) launched
in 2005, and quite literally took over. She began
blogging while studying interior architecture in
San Francisco, originally as an outlet for interior
design shots. On a whim, Song uploaded a
photograph of one of her outfits and it quickly
sparked positive feedback from strangers
around the world online. Then the luxury brands
followed in tow. Now, Aimee has an Influencer
Agency whom are also in control of Instagram,
more than 8m followers collectively. She also
has a team of photographers whom follow and
capture her every move, at home in LA or on her
various travels abroad.

96

Due to her success, a booked titled Capture
Your Style has been released; Songs own guide
to branding yourself for social media, and was
instantly featured in both The New York Times
and Forbes Magazine. This is where the magazine
VS blogger challenge lies though; are magazines
being outdone my marketing extraordinares and
influencers, whom now have more influence over
consumer culture than Anna Wintour from Vogue
US? Its highly possible.
Stratton claims that, [with enough work] people
can construct the appearance that they want.
Such understanding emphasises the visual,
pointing towards a world of gazes, mirrors and
spectacles where they eye is the central sense
and the body is its major focus. This is resonant
with social media and magazines, whereby the
camera, or public eye becomes a mirror, allowing
for distorted self-perceptions, with one being
unable to recognise what is real, or not, adding
aesthetic pressure, especially in a world of
social media.
For Song these spectacles and constructive
work has worked incredibly well; Since reaching
influencer stardom, she has been made brand
ambassador for Laura Mercier, launched her
own fashion line, called Jame, guest-edited
Korean Vogue, walked the Dolce and Gabbana
SS17 catwalk show at NYFW, and has featured in
Vogue US and Womens Wear Daily. In addition,
collaborations have been formed with brands
such as True Religion, Fossil, Levis and 7 for
All Mankind, and has since been employed by
Macys flea-fashion ambassador. Song is clearly
being recognised by Wintour and major brand
leaders as a force not to be reckoned with, but
to be joined.
But with this influencer game comes a dangerous
side note of how Instagram and social media can
make, the normal person feel, or the person
who has tried their best at blogging but still
cannot reach that status.
Capture Your Style is sold and marketed as
follows; Inside, youll learn ways to craft your
voice and story on Instagram: all about how to
MODERNmuse
edit your photos using the best apps and filters,
how to prop and style food and fashion photos,
how to gain more followers, and secrets behind
building a top Instagram brand, transforming an
Instagram hobby into a successful business
Sound appealing? Of course. But how does living
a life of curated, filtered and edited images make
the everyday person feel? Song would argue
that she, represents the masses because Im
a real person, not a supermodels or celebrity,
so consumers can relate more, yet if you ask
someone on the highstreet, someone from the
norm, they would argue that such bloggers
present and represent an impossible ideal look
which the average person cannot achieve. If only
Instagram made real life filters.. you cant edit
real life.
This statement can make one feel unsettled, but
also can make one question this new question
this new career choice of Influencer marketing
and blogging in relation to self-perceptions,
aspirations and ideals. In regard to this, due
to the continuous perfect posts and ease of
some bloggers reaching international influencer
status, it can be taken that every photo is not,
planned and edited post-production, however
Songs book, captures this process diminishing
the secrets of bloggers everywhere. In some
ways, this is a positive that she has revealed how
bloggers and influencers work; based on their
contructed lives, whilst to those who do not
follow her or know of Capture Your Style, may
be niave to this process and take whay they see
as real.
Due to the rise in blogger culture in the past
decade, many theorists have began to adapt
their research and analogies to this phenomenon
and how this affects the viewer. Tagg took
the lead, stating, status [within] technology
varies with the power relations that invest [in]
it, whilst Rose claims; photography is often
thought of as picturing reality, implying that
fabricated realities such as Songs, may impact
on the self-perception, confidence and self-
esteem of the viewer. In contrast, it can also be
said that there is a gratification that is
101
MODERNmuse

gained through looking at what we cannot have

or achieve, allowing one to still feel in tune with BLOGGERS PRESENT
such lifestyles, therefore using social media
platforms such as Instagram and YouTube.
AND REPRESENT AN
IMPOSSIBLE IDEAL
Compared to magazines where one knows that
the photography or editorials which are being LOOK WHICH THE
viewed or directed, are curated and fuelled by AVERAGE PERSON
models, makeup artists, hairdressers and stylists,
social media paints a picture that what one posts CANNOT ACHIEVE.
from their personal account is real. IF ONLY INSTAGRAM
Magazines can be interpreted in different ways MADE REAL LIFE
due to being mass produced for a wide audience
within a designed demographic, dependant FILTERS.. YOU CANT
upon the viewer, how they percieve it, and EDIT REAL LIFE.
ultimately if they choose to read that particular
publication. However, with social media, each
blog is tailored and is directed to a very specific
type of person, through the use of hashtags and
curated imagery.

Influencers are becoming the new models,

role models and leaders of the fashion world,
dominating the social media scene and the
publishing world. Social media users may see
this a positive, or a negative, depending on their
mind-set and viewers on the bloggersphere,
whilst brands are using influencers opposed to
models to endorse and promote their brands
and products; through both catwalk shows
and PR stunts via social media. But, ultimately,
magazine publishers are turning a negative of a
preference of social media into a positive, in an
aim to counteract their sales and open doors to
new readership.

This combined strategy of utilising different

media channels in an aim to re-vamp a fading
world of print-based editorials appears to be
working, but how long until these modern muses
completely take over?

102
103
T
luxury consumerism; now available
Different people of different
cultural backgrounds, under different
circumstances and at different times
make different meanings, and so
create and experience different
social realities
Saunders (2012)
MILK
& HONEY
An honest and inspiring, award-winning
blog aimed at inspiring and instilling
self-worth in women across the globe
Models: M&H Collective
Photography: Amy OBrian
itsmilkandhoney.com
At a time when the digital age can be a negative
environment with a backlash of critique and
judgement, Milk and Honey provide a safe and
inspiring outlet for women to escape to.
In 2012, Stephan Alexandr launched the
female ran online blog and hub, aiming to
inspire, motivate and instill a truth and sense of
belonging in the lives of her readers. Instantly
shortlisted by Cosmopolitan for the Blog
Awards the same year, Milk and Honey began
to grow from a one woman band in London, to
an International and collaborative platform
reaching women all over the globe. With
underlying Christianity and self-belief, this
blog is like no other and is recognised as being
fresh, youthful and relevant but real, with no
artifical content. The growth and readership
has been organic, underpinned by honesty
and culture.
What prompted the idea of the blog Milk
and Honey?
Milk and Honey was just my little blog to
interview people as I came out of university.
It was somewhere to write about the things
I was passionate about. Now the angle has
totally changed and is aimed at women aged
16 to 24, and is all about being a positive
inspirational stream in the media - passionate
about protecting moral values and bringing an
awareness of self-value and worth to young
women. The platform is now a collaborative
non-profit group ran by likeminded women from
across the globe. Our platform covers a range
of area, from fashion, music, faith and lifestyle.
It endorses positivity, love and certainly has no
place for gossip! We aim to bring inspirational
news and an awareness of self-value and worth.
I like to think it is uplifting and will motivate
women to be the best that they can be. There is
truth and heart in everything that is written.
109
MILK&honey

Do you think that this platform can make a

difference in the current digital age of social
media and judgement?

The platform was created as a safe haven for girls

to come and get powerful, meaningful and real
content, and it is what it is because of the girls
that contribute to it.
SHARING IS SO
Can you tell me about the girls which you work IMPORTANT TO BRING
with and how you work?
ALL SORTS OF SELF-
Oh, gosh, we have girls from Canada, from
Germany, from London, from LA, who pull out
WORTH AND VALUE TO
their testomonies very earnestly and talk about WOMEN, ESPECIALLY
their lives, their journeys and their Christianity,
and very honestly to. I remember back at the TODAY WHEN THIS
start we would talk about real issues such as CAN BE DIMINISHED
the struggle with pornography and religion,
you know, and abandoned girls who never had SO EASILY IN MODERN
parents, and motherhood, and sisterhood. We
wanted to share stories through Christ, to let
DAY SOCIETY.
others be free. You know and thats really been
at the brunt of it all, and working together to Do you think its hard for women to identify
get these stories out there and build on this with themselves within a world of social media?
platform that aims to work together with others,
whilst, sharing and encouraging. Even if you have Instagram and youre following
safe content, there is still an element of a
But, there is a lighter side too? picture perfect life. No one posts a picture
of themselves when they wake up, its all very
We talk about all sorts of this girls like, from tailored and we try to bring that back to reality.
makeup and beauty, to fashion, to hotels and You dont see imperfections, an we wanted to
travel, the best places to eat; you know a lifestyle show that, and reinstate being true.
hub thats Christ inspired but engaging and
relatable and safe. Sharing is so important to What is your film about, The Dare that features
bring all sorts of self-worth and value to women, on the blog?
especially today when this can be diminished so
easily in modern day society. We wanted to present a reflective visual of the
journey that is being a women, growing and
You know, growing up in a sheltered environment learning over the years, in a raw way. The Dare
and having pre-determined aspirations set out is a spoken word piece performed and written
for you has led me to this point, where I now by Sarah Amankwah, which we believe to be
want to be me, and I want women to embrace powerful, helpful and beautiful too.
who they are too, and not to be dictated
through just an ideal either through the media
or Christianity. People dont often realise how
beautiful they are, and dont recognise their
worth and thats what we want to showcase and
encourage as a team.

110
111
MILK&honey
The Dare:
I remember the first time that I sat in isolation.
I kept face, but it caught my attention.
At age 9, I was a compulsive lair.
I rejected things I didnt understand, like immigrants.
Who knew those silk-haired, sun-kissed creatures
were my neighbours.
This clenching stones not knowing that I to had become
a clone. Culture zone; teenager.
Not a ninja but my movements marked splinters.
Most winters I would slumber in the daytime; always
afraid to walk the line.
Im dreaming; but screaming, why does beauty starve
the living.. wait, wait, who am I kidding?
I traded my heart to these trolls that scrolled through
every crushed artery.
Handed me some sticks and spit and make me your
weeping mistress.
Ruled by the fear of never having a happy ever after.
But behold for he is coming; and every eye will see him.
My knight in shining armour.A lover, but not a fighter.
Not afraid to flex to the rebellious yes.
Advised and rejected by men, we did not esteem him.
But he needed to be stricken.
Smitten, it was written, he was wounded for our
transgressions. Bruised for our inequities.
Chastised for our peace.
114
Beg my pardons, please.
From the minute my tears kissed his feet, I was set free
from eternal captivity.
In an instant, his grace was made sufficient.
Not by my needs to please, but he needed to aim high
for me so he stepped down and died for me.
Who sympathises with the weak.
Tempted yet with sin yet he was on fleek.
Perfect purchase the payment was permanent.
And I look at you, sleeping beauties and, the scars
left behind.
The broken hearted Fionas and Auroras.
Those filthy ogres wearing togas, and those charming
lovers.
For heavens sake.
His glorious kingdom awaits; you are known royalty.
He prays that when you sit there and look at me you
see a bi-product of a true love story.
I dare you to listen to reason, to commit this act of
treason against the world.
Tell every boy and every girl to wake up.
I dare you to shake up the nations, the blacks, white,
olives and caucasians.
I dare you to love your frenemies, thats your friends
and your enemies.
I dare you to not follow me, but follow he; come and
see, I dare you.
The Universal Elite in present day
society holds up to its members
the role of the consumer, and the
members of our society are likewise
judged by their ability and willingness
to play that role
Bauman, (2004)
WESTERNbloggerculture

The 1st Fashion and

Beauty blog was
launched in the US
in 2010. Since then
The Industry has
boomed. Bloggers
are now known
as Influencers
and are being
used as marketing
commodities by
International brands.

118
77% of all bloggers
are female, and
within this 27% of
those are bloggers
within the beauty and
fashion industries.

119
 Western

BEAUTY
INFLUENCERS
the ones to watch on Instagram
With the world going beauty mad, The Industry
magazine has selected the most influential
beauty bloggers to follow in 2017!.. you know
you want to!

120
 WESTERNbeautyinfluencers

@jamiegenevieve
741k followers

@tanyaburr
3.2m followers

@desiperkins
3.3m followers

@makeupbyalinna
1.5m followers

121
WESTERNbeautyinfluencers

@sheidafashionista
542k followers

@thepatriciabright
566k followers

@iluvsarahii
3.5m followers

@christendominique
1.1m followers

122
 @nikkitutorials
7.6m followers

@jaclynhill
4.1m followers

@mannymua
3.6m followers

@ssssamanthaa
2.4m followers

123
WESTERNfashionbloggers

ani
Chiara Ferrig

@theblondesalad
347k followers
theblondesalad.com

@kristinabazan
2.4m followers
kayture.com
Kristina Bazan

ong
Aimee S

@songofstyle
4.6m followers

Julia Engel

@juliahengel
1.1m followers

124
Western

FASHION
BLOGGERS
the ones to watch
Fashion bloggers have become the modern muses of
21st Century fashion, showcasing the newest trends
and brands. These are the stand-out influencers to be
aware of and follow!

125
EASTASIANbloggerculture

Welcome to
Harajuku, Tokyo,
where the saying
goes: the nail that
sticks out, must be
hammered back
in pressurising
conformity, in return
causing a backlash
of self-expression,
unique identities and
kawaii to be derived
and interspersed
with Western
influences and style.

126
127
EASTASIANbeautyinfluencers

@pearypie
1.5m followers

@ellenvflora
423k followers

@flamcis
284k followers
@imjennim
1.5m followers

128
East Asian

BEAUTY
INFLUENCERS
the ones to watch on Instagram
Beauty influencers in Eastern Asia are still low-key, not
being recognised or trusted as much as celebrities
to endorse major brands and products, however; The
Industry magazine has selected a few we predict will be
big when the tide turns! Recognised influencers tend to
have a combination of Western and Kawaii traits!

129
EASTASIANfashionbloggers

East Asian

FASHION
BLOGGERS
the ones to watch

Fashion bloggers are still not as popular or in demand in

Eastern Asia as Celebrities, however due to Western culture
influences and a Japanese desire to conform, this has allowed
for a wave of Western-style influencers to appear. These are
the ones to be aware of!

130
131
 04.
A BIT OF
PERSPECTIVE
PERCIEVING
TAM
A models perspective on social media, body
image and the distortions created through
the Fashion industry
Model: Tam Dexter
Photography: Talia White
Makeup Artist: Jade Victoria
Tam Dexter, one of the Norths most desired
and booked models, kick started her modelling
career 2 years ago through Nemesis Models,
Manchester and posting her test shots on the
social media platform Instagram. With already
38k Instagram followers at the age of 23, youll
see Tam modelling for the likes of Hotmess,
Luxe to Kill, Runway96, Baby Milk Clothing,
Dorothy Perkins, ASOS and Jade Clark.
But, how does building a modelling business
through social media affect your self-
perception as your popularity grows and you
become more, and more in-demand? Tam
candidly tells all on how it feels to be on the
industry side of the lens in modern day society,
as well as how the modelling industry can affect
perceptions and identities of the viewing and
consumer-led public.
Do you feel that working as a model in the
Fashion Industry has affected your self-
perception and body image at all?
Not as much as some people may think.
Obviously I look at other girls that go to the gym
a lot, and Im like wow I need to go gym more
[laughs], but Im happy with my body and I get
booked for work, so clients must like me.
Do you think that seeing successful models on
social media, could issues in young females?
Especially those who are wanting to follow
your footsteps?
100% of images on Instagram can be so false;
lighting and photoshop have more than likely
been used. If I wasnt in the fashion industry I
wouldnt know about the amount of editing that
goes into post-production images.
135
PERCIEVINGtam
When I was 16 I didnt care about what I looked
like compared to girls in the lower generation,
but it seems 16-24 year olds mainly have their
head in their phone on social media platforms at
the moment, and that cant be good
for them.
Do you think social media has had any negative
impact in your modelling career to date,
especially being 22 and working within the
realms of fashion?
No not really, I dont think I have enough
followers for it to have a negative impact on me.
I see girls with 50k plus followers and they get
abused in the comments on their own images,
its disgusting. I think if it got to that I would
come off social media as theres more to life
than people saying nasty things when they dont
even know the person that theyre being
negative towards.
Have you had any negative experiences with
brands or modelling agencies where perhaps
their expectations of you were different?
Perhaps post-production images can give
clients an idea of something that isnt real?
No not yet, and I hope I dont in the future. All
my agencies have been really happy with me
and my shape, and we also do test shoots for
my portfolio showing a range or pre and post-
production images.
Do you feel that working as a model, there is a
certain expectation of you to look a certain
way all of the time?
I dont think there is a certain way they want you
to look, but I know companies want variety in
models, i.e. hair colour, cut and maybe physique
too. As a model you need to be looking your best
at all times, I make sure my hair, nails and skin
are in perfect condition all the time.
136
SOMETIMES I LOOK AT
MYSELF AND I DONT
EVEN LOOK LIKE ME IN
THE MIRROR BECAUSE
IM CONTOURED TO
HIGH HEAVENS!
What aspects of the Fashion and Beauty
Industries in particular do you feel most affect
self-perception and body image issues of
viewers and customers?
Photoshop is a big one, how you can change
someones whole image and then use the image
everywhere is false to me. Within the beauty
industry, obviously makeup is a huge part.
Sometimes I look at myself and I dont even look
like me in the mirror because Im contoured to
high heavens! So young girls wanting to look like
a model or a blogger that they have seen because
they contour or use MAC makeup would be a
massive self perception issue!
Has imagery of you been published whereby
your body or real body shape, has been
digitally manipulated without your say?
No never, most photographers say Im really easy
to work with as I dont need photoshop as my
skin in great.
How do you feel in general about using
digitally manipulated photography?
I think its ridiculous. If they found a model with
what they was looking for instead of creating
a fake image of somebody to fit the brand, or
look I think the world would be a better place in
terms of self-perception and self-confidence. At
least young girls would know the image is a real
person, and could aspire to that and not a false
entity created for sales and the media.
PERCIEVINGtam

138
139
 PERCIEVINGtam

CAN YOU IMAGINE

LOOKING AT AN IMAGE
OF YOURSELF WHICH
LOOKS NOTHING
LIKE YOU? I CAN ONLY
IMAGINE THE SADNESS
Do you think clients and brands can get away
with such manipulation without their being any
impact on the model?

Its really sad, its like the client doesnt know

that the model will know that they have changed
it completely. Can you imagine looking at a image
of yourself which looks nothing like you? I can
only imagine the sadness that I would feel if I
witnessed it, and it happened to me! I think it
would be really damaging and could lower your
confidence massively.

Working around this major issue in the

Fashion Industry, ASOS for example, have a
Model Welfare Policy in place to ensure that all
of the models used in their promotional
materials are deemed healthy in regards to
physique and weight. Have you had any similar
positive experiences with brands or modelling
agencies where policies are enforced or
positive body image is promoted?

This is the best thing thats came to the fashion

indsutry and the wider society. I dont work with
a company that has any policy in place, but I
think it should be implimented worldwide.

Do you feel that the use of a National or

International Policy on healthy model use and
positive body image would help the industry
in regards to promoting body confidence and
positive self-esteem within young females?

100% there is a lot of models that are so

underweight, even some that I have worked with.
To young girls they look amazing, but if a doctor
was to analyse them, I am sure they would be
really worried.

141
The media influences slim ideals,
and potentially can trigger eating
disorders. As a result 1.6m in the UK
alone suffer
B-EAT (2011)
CANDIDLY
ASOS
The worlds largest ecommerce outlet,
ASOS, talks Social Responsibility, including,
Model Welfare and Positive Body Image

Photography: ASOS SS17

ASOS is known to be the number 1, global

fashion destination for 20-somethings. Selling
more than 85,000 products through localised
mobile and web experiences, ASOS deliver daily
to 240 countries and destinations around the
world. With this being said, ASOS have a huge
responsibility to ensure that both products and
advertising are targetted responsibly to their
12.4m diverse customers, and with their stance
as a market leader within the Fashion Industry,
ASOS take the welfare of both their customers
and models very seriously. At a time where
social media is on the rise, and perceptions
are being distorted through an array of digital
lenses, Jessica Andrews from the Social
Responsibilty team and Robert Crest, a Senior
Specialist Womenswear designer for ASOS,
talk candidly on the companies policies and
procedures, ensuring good practice globally.
ASOS are the only global company to enforce
such welfare policies, and hope to make a
positive difference in a challenging time for
Fashion; by keeping what they put out in the
media as close to real as possible.

145
CANDIDLYasos
With ASOS being accessible to over 240
countries worldwide, how does the Model
Welfare policy work on an International
scale? Are different ethnicties and body types
accounted for in order to not only show
Western faces and physiques?
JA: The main focus of the policy is the welfare
and wellbeing of the models working with ASOS,
so it doesnt specify the need to represent
differences in body shapes or averages. However
as part of our wider Fashion with Integrity
programme we focus on diversity and inclusion
so the model booking team is aware of the
importance of ensuring that our models reflect
our diverse customer base. I think that ASOS
does a pretty good job of this already but we
are always striving to ensure that all body types,
races, etc. are represented across all of
our channels.
How are ASOS perceived in the Fashion Industry
and ecommerce world in regards to following
guidelines and policies? It is noticed that other
brands and organisations in the Industry which
do not have such pre-set policies.
RC: I hope ASOS is perceived to be quite
aspirational in terms of body image and dressing
any body shape. We have 4 womenswear
specialist Own Brand departments Curve, Tall,
Petite/Petite Tall, and Maternity/Maternity Tall,
and we also sell Branded Specialist brands too.
We [ASOS] strive to be the top of our game,
and hope that all of the work done within head
office is evident on site through both the end
product and social media outlets. We dont
use advertising, aside from our own magazine
which is available to customers, we live off word
of mouth and the reputation this spreads, the
feedback we have had from questionnaires and
focus groups have been very positive.
Who do you work with to form such policies,
and are these supported going forward?
RC: The design team obviously doesnt work in
isolation. We have very strong relationships
146
within our Buying and Garment Technology
teams to ensure policies are followed
throughout the process. Our supplier bases are
also an extension of this and regular contact and
visits build this trust and continue updating the
information and expectations we hold at ASOS.
JA: When forming a policy it is important to
ensure all of the relevant stakeholders within
the business are involved. For example, for a
retouching policy this would include a group
of people, so, the Production team, the model
booking team and the creative directors.
We would also potentially involve a critical
friend i.e. a charity or initiative, that it well
known for working in the field so that they can
provide external advice as the policy is formed.
This really helps [ASOS] to ensure that we are on
top of our game, and that nothing out of line is
carried out which could be perceived negatively
by the viewer and consumer. We take this quite
seriously as a brand.
Do you believe that all brands and organisations
in the Fashion Industry should follow policies
and guidelines, ensuring that Positive Body
Image and Model Welfare are accounted for?
Or, do you think the Industry would benefit
from National or International policies?
RC: In general, I think that there should be a
level of general awareness and boundaries which
industries should adhere to, but appreciate to
make it national or international would require
a big body of work. I think boundaries are
now slowly blurring and with recent catwalk
shows using plus size, older generations and
androgynous models the tide is turning and
Positive body image awareness is now out there
not to be ignored but celebrated. There is still a
lot to still be done however.
JA: I feel that all brands within the Fashion
Industry should draw up their own policies and
guidelines. I think this would promote organic
change from within the industry that still allows
for the creativity and vision to continue but also
ensure the wellbeing of models and the public.
 CANDIDLYasos

BOUNDARIES ARE When National or International policies are put

in place they can help and promote change more
NOW BLURRING AND quickly as long as they are not too prescriptive.
However, these types of policies are quite often
THE TIDE IS TURNING. not very easy for brands to navigate and can
POSITIVE BODY IMAGE become a burden with admin and quashing
creativity, so do not allow the industry to find
AWARENESS IS NOW a positive solution from within, which I think is
OUT THERE NOT TO what ultimately drives long term change.

BE IGNORED BUT Have any problems arisen in regards to

modelling agencies not complying with these
CELEBRATED. THERE policy guidelines?
IS STILL A LOT TO BE RC: Not that Im aware of, but I would like to
DONE HOWEVER think that ASOS would only work with agencies
which have guidelines and rules which embrace
and support all body types, and as a result any
issues are dealt with prior to production teams
meeting or hiring our models.

JA: Yeah, I agree. Ultimately its up to the ASOS

Model booking team to decide which models
we want to use on our website, or for any other
media channel, so they should be following the
guidelines outlined in our policies, such as only
using models with measurements above a UK 8.

However, we do sometimes face issues due to

modelling agencies presenting models that have
measurements that are smaller than we would
want to use. For example, in the past we have
had challenges in finding agencies who supply
plus size models above a size 16 and as a result
have resorted to finding our own models, often
through Instagram, festivals, competitions or
even from the ASOS office! But you know, the
modelling industry is changing so we have seen
improvements in this area recently.

So, how does the ASOS social media platforms

comply with these policies?

RC: Naturally we have a responsibility to ensure

any imagery posted on social media is positive
and this is monitored and addressed constantly.
We use Social media as a resource to gain an
understanding of what our customer needs. This
is free of any boundaries (to an extent) and

149
CANDIDLYasos
sometimes the more honest the better as all we
want is to make sure our customer is happy. We
have strict rules about what we can post and are
always addressing how things may be perceived
before being posted.
Do ASOS work with issues surrounding social
media and possible Mental Health and Body Im-
age issues that could be derived from this?
JA: We recognise that mental health issues
are one of the biggest challenges facing young
people today, especially with the rise in social
media use. We work really hard to ensure that
our social media presence is positive and not
negatively impacting on the mental health and
body image of our customers.
We have wider programmes in place to highlight
the impact social media can have on body im-
age/mental health. For example, we work with
the Diana Award (a charity that is working to pre-
vent bullying) and we have been partnered with
them for the launch of their #MySenseOfSelf!
project which teaches young people about body
confidence and self-esteem.
The focus of the project is on an activity in which
they draw an outline of their neck and shoulders
on a large piece of paper and then write words
around the outline that shows what makes them
up (i.e. I love cooking, my favourite colour is red).
When they have filled the paper around their
outline they take a selfie with the paper behind
them. The activity highlights that when people
take selfies and post them on social media, the
selfie doesnt show who they are as a person but
just what they look like (often after they have
used filters/apps to change their appearance).
We are currently working with the Diana Award
to expand on this idea to a more national level
and its an area we would look to continue work-
ing in the future.
With social media taking off, do ASOS work with
bloggers coinciding with this?
RC: We do quite a lot of work with bloggers and
influencers. For example for CURVE, our plus
150
WE HAVE RESORTED
TO FINDING OUR
OWN MODELS; OFTEN
THROUGH INSTAGRAM,
COMPETITIONS, OR
EVEN AT TIMES THE
ASOS OFFICE!
size Own Brand, we have done lookbook shoots
with Gabi Fresh and Felicity Howard, who are
great aspirational women. We also meet with
Plus size bloggers, both UK and international for
advice and opinions on product/trends, but also
just to touch base and see whats going on in
their family and community of followers.
So, what do you think are the benefits of having
such ASOS policies and ideologies in place?
RC: The benefit to me is simply having less
boundaries, but naturally having to think outside
the box more because as a designer you arent
always designing for yourself it makes you
appreciate what you are giving as a service.
And, do you think that there are any negative
aspects or restraints in regards to working with
such strict policies
and guidelines?
RC: Naturally we have to be sensitive to the
diversity of our customer base and the different
ethnic groups, and respect their opinions and
beliefs, whether this is silhouette or cut, body
shape, print or pattern, or even the colours
used. It adds another level to the design process
and can often influence how trends evolve. Its
a journey from concept to the end product,
and would hopefully not divide or deter our
customer from the ASOS experience, whilst
being a learning curve for the design team.
CANDIDLYasos

151
 GOOD
AMERICAN
Khloe Kardashian and Emma Greedy talk
Good American, the denim line promoting
positive body image for all
Models: Various; The Good American Squad
Photography: Good American AW16
2016 saw the launch of a Denim Revolution,
founded by KUWTK star Khloe Kardashian and
Marketing Expert Emma Greedy, making denim
history. With sizes 00-24, Good American aims
to be a positive influence in a currently negative
world of body shaming and judging within the
fashion industry, allowing anyone from skinny
to curvy to feel beautiful in their own skin.
Starting from a simple conversation on what it
means to be a woman in todays harsh society
of critics, glares and lenses, Good American
was born and is here to stay, make an impact
and prove a point; you can have clothing that is
tailor made to fit you, and not the other
way around.
152
What inspired the two of you to start Good
American jeans?
KK: Emma and I created Good American because
we wanted jeans that can fit real women, and
we really feel like this has been lacking in the
market. Our denim line will go from size 0 to size
24, but we dont consider this a plus-sized line.
We consider this a line for the everyday woman.
We believe in embracing a womans curves and
I feel like now so many people are breaking
down these barriers of not only going to a size
6 or 8, which is considered normal. Im very
proud of the message Emma and I are trying to
get out into the world and we really hope that it
transcends into making women feel empowered
in their own skin and knowing that theres a line
thats going to give you all these trends, you can
still be fashion-forward and have everything that
the normal girls have, and I hate to say that,
without having to sacrifice anything else.
GOODamerican

154
155
GOODamerican
How was it decided that you would cast real
women and fans in your campaign instead of
booked models?
EG: Khlo put out a message on social media
to say that she was launching the brand. We
really just wanted women from all backgrounds
to come and be part of the campaign. We had
about 12,000 entries in 24 hours and we invited
250 people to come down to audition for the
campaign; it was amazing. It was one of the most
empowering, brilliant days because we had all
of these girls that had no idea what they were
doing; they saw a manifesto on our website
talking about our values and what we wanted
this company to be and they responded to that.
Weve got this incredible campaign with all these
different women from different backgrounds,
shapes, sizes, colors; it was really empowering to
do that right at the start of this brand.
KK: What I took away from that the most is that
normally when youre on auditions people are
like, Im not talking to you, I want this role, but
everyone who came into the room was like, I
just made some new friends out there! They
didnt even know why they were there, they
just knew there was a positive message and
they wanted to be part of it. To see people that
excited about doing something thats uplifting,
thats something that really opened our eyes and
made us think, wow there really is a huge lack of
this positivity in life and building other women
up in this field and its horrible.
For a lot of women, its so hard to find
a pair of jeans that fits the right way. How did
you take that problem into account when it
came to designing Good American?
EG: Well, thats the whole thing, thats what
everybody talks about and its not easy, thats
why not a lot of brands are able to do it. Weve
spent a really, really long time developing a
product that we can be proud of. There are a lot
of technical elements. What weve worked really
hard on is this contour waistband which acts like
a self-belt and it means that you never have
that gap at the back if you have a smaller waist
156
and a bigger backside. You sometimes need to
make alterations and youll never need to do
that in these jeans. The fabric is super stretchy,
has great recovery, the pattern is completely
different so that all the curve is in the hip. Weve
got some very special stitching on our jeans so
even though theyre very plain, the stitching is
curved and it actually follows and accentuates a
womans figure.
So, before all of this, did you have someone you
looked to as a positive body image role model
when you were growing up?
KK: Its so interesting because when I was
growing up heroin chic was the really cool thing.
And there was Kate Moss. And she was gorgeous,
but I was like, I dont identify with that body.
I always, weirdly enough, was attracted to the
Victorias Secret models of the world because
they were more voluptuous.
It wasnt even because they were in bras and
panties. It was like, Okay, I finally see bodies that
are a little more like mine. And theyre not even
bigger girls. They just have bigger breasts and
a little curve. When Jennifer Lopez did Selena I
was like, Oh my God. It was so relatable for me
and my sisters. But at the time it was really
only her.
I dont remember a lot of other really strong
women at the head of pop culture at that time.
And now looking back at J. Lo there were so
many girls with way bigger butts, but that was
what we had. Its important to me, no matter
what size I am or weight I am, to feel beautiful.
Even at my biggest I was rocking body con
dresses and you couldnt tell me twice.
Thats what I think Good American is. Its about
women of individuality and diversity, but also
about being comfortable in yourself. Thats what
were trying to promote. Its not about fitting into
a size two and thats what makes you beautiful.
I just want people to be healthy and love who
they are and be in control of your life. But that
doesnt mean you have to be a size six.
So, overall, what does the name Good American
represent for you?
EG: First of all, we thought the name Good
American was a great name. But it was more
about a play on the words and the connotations
of what being good means. Can you not be a
really sexy girl who shows off your body and be
good and do good in the world? We wanted our
company to also behave like a good American.
Its about paying a fair living wage to people,
about operating in a way people would find
acceptable and manufacturing in America. So all
those values of what it conjures up to be a good
American is what our company should be and
how it should behave.
KK: And with that we created our Good
Squad, which is the wonderful girls we have
representing our line. Theyre bad ass real girls
who all have a lot going on in their lives. Women
who are strong and so versatile. We have girls
of all different colors, ethnicities, heights and
sizes. They have tattoos, shaved heads, literally
everything. Because thats really now what our
world is. Its not about the cookie cutter Im a
blonde with long flowing hair look anymore, all
people are different and thats ok.
Do you have any good tips for Women regarding
how to try on denim?
EG: Its buy them online and try them at home.
We dont want that dressing room mirror
situation. We stock them at Nordstrom and were
very, very happy to be in stores, but the online
experience has brought a whole new dimension
to what is a really tricky purchase. If you can, buy
a few pairs and try them on in the comfort of
your own home with your own clothes. Thats a
major plus.
KK: I used to be a sales employee. And sales
employees, thats their job. I have been
convinced that I look so good in something and
Ive gotten home and been like, What the fuck
did I just buy? Im a big online shopper. I think
nowadays its so accessible and easy. You can
do it on your phone. I just feel Im making the
decision myself when I shop online.
EG: And the nice thing about our website is
weve shot everything on three different sized
women. So you can see who youre closest in size
to and see how she looks. Which I think is a nice
touch on the website.
Its unusual to have a online website that
showcases the clothes in various sizes isnt it?
EG: Why isnt everybody doing that? Were like,
This is such a good feeling! Why is everyone not
doing it! But the reality of the fashion industry
is that its really stuck. Its stuck in this idea of
only providing sample sizes. Its stuck in this
idea of when youre in a department store you
cant actually go onto the designer denim floor
and find anything above a 10. And 10 is relatively
small. Its ridiculous. So this feels revolutionary
because it kind of is. We actually hope other
brands follow suit and it becomes the norm.
Thats why we keep talking about a denim
revolution. Having sizes 0 to 24 is not a weird
thing. The average size woman in America is a
size 16. She should be able to go in her local
store and find a beautiful pair of jeans!
ITS NOT ABOUT
FITTING INTO A SIZE
TWO AND THATS
WHAT MAKES YOU
BEAUTIFUL. HAVING
SIZES 0 TO 24 IS NOT
A WEIRD THING.
THE AVERAGE SIZE
WOMAN IN AMERICA
IS A SIZE 16. SHE
SHOULD BE ABLE
TO FIND A PAIR OF
GOOD JEANS!
157
NADINE
LEBLOND
A candid interview with Fashion expert
Nadine LeBlond, a Creative Director and
Art Director based in London
Models: TK Maxx Customers
Photography: Eudes de Santana
At a time when some brands are pushing
diversity out, leading the way with the
stereotypical white female stick-thin
model, Nadine LeBlond encourages different
ethnicities and age groups within her practice
as a freelance Art Director and Creative
Director working in the Fashion industry. This
interview reveals why brands only utilise one
type of model, and praises brands that realise
the commerical benefits of diversity. The
industry is slowly changing, and Nadine aims to
put her mark on it allowing for consumers to be
who they really are.
Can you tell me a bit about your job role
working within the fashion industry?
I worked for TK Maxx as a Creative Director and
then worked for Hearst magazines, and George
clothing; both on a freelance basis. Most of the
work was art direction, focusing on seasonal
campaigns and events. These were a mixture of
photographic and motion pieces. My background
is in advertising and design, working for top
agencies, so I came into the industry with a
different and fresh mindset/perspective from
those who have always worked in it.
159
NADINEleblond

160
NADINEleblond
Do you feel pressure working in this industry
to relay a positive and healthy body image and
ideal to consumers?
Yes, definitely. I think its incredibly important
to convey a positive body image to people, not
just on an ethical basis. But it also makes sense
commercially. If people relate to the brand they
feel an affinity to it. From a moral perspective
Ive been on the other side of the camera and
been told to lose weight by my modelling agency
despite being incredibly thin. It gave me an
incredibly unhealthy attitude towards my own
body image and led to me taking prescription
diet medication to meet the ideals requested by
my agency... which is incredibly damaging.
Have you had any really positive experiences
in regard to this? If so, can you give some
examples of your work and brands which you
feel have had a positive impact in the industry?
Yes. I loved the TK Maxx ethos of using real
customers who were cast in store. They are not
professional models, are a diverse age range
and give a much more natural and attainable
impression of the people that actually wear the
clothes. They were incredibly positive campaigns
to work on. Other brands are doing a great
job of pushing the boundaries. Dove, M&S,
Debenhams a lot of brands are really pushing
things now. Even H&M are now embracing
women being women in all their shapes and
sizes. High fashion doesnt embrace it but the
high street does.
And likewise, have you had any experiences
working with a brand who has wanted to
project a negative body image or ideal, in your
opinion?
Yes; but I wont name names! Generally, as an art
director, my opinion is respected. I get involved
in the casting and have a say in the situation. I
have had brands however not agree with using
a plus sized model even when appropriate
because their clothes go up to a size 24! It is
ultimately their money and decision. If I manage
to push them at least some of the way towards
162
a more positive outcome thats great; and even
better, at least Ive tried and feel happy Ive had
an influence however momentary.
As someone in your position, how do you deal
with this, or challenge this?
I usually put it forward within the concept and
give as strong as argument that I can from a
commercial perspective. Businesses dont care
about most things but they do care about
their money.
What do you think can be done in the industry
to promote positive body image and
self-perception?
Using models with a healthier body weight.
Presenting people in a happier manner than
are not overly self aware and are happy
in themselves is important. Also, not over
retouching images can really help.
Do you think magazines need to do more to
showcase a variety of models and body types?
Definitely, yes! But in general they are starting
to embrace the concept of doing just that.
Especially when they realise the commercial
benefits. I understand that they want things to
sell. Its a tricky mix between creating a beautiful
photograph and realism. But definitely more can
be done. Its not an easy job though. most are
responding to financial/commercial needs. It
takes some bravery and its seen as a risk.
With the rise of social media, do you think this
has allowed brands to use photos of models and
promote campaigns which may not of been used
previously in print? Does this have an impact on
body image and self-perception do you think?
Social media definitely has both positive and
negative effects. Istagram is very bad at creating
an environment where unnatural/non-realities
are created and make people feel bad about
their own lives/self-image because its incredibly
unrealistic. Its doesnt really show the not so
beautiful moments! Social media can also be
 NADINEleblond

IF I AM ALLOWED
ONE MALE, ONE
FEMALE, I MAKE SURE
ONE OF THEM IS THE
OPPOSITE IN TERMS
OF ETHNICITY TO THE
OTHER; TO PROMOTE
AS MUCH DIVERSITY
AS POSSIBLE.
incredibly powerful because it gives people a
voice. They can talk to brands directly and get
the brands to respond to their needs.

In your opinion what are the biggest downfalls

and positives of the industry?

I love fashion. I love creating beautiful images

and motion pieces. I get to work with some
incredibly talented people at my request. That
to me is amazing. As a negative... it can be an
incredibly bitchy, backstabbing and cut throat
environment to work in.

You really have to be passionate about what you

do and be prepared to develop a very thick skin
that may not come naturally to you. You have to
separate your emotional perspective and get the
job done.

How do you tackle diversity and gender equality

in the industry?

I always suggest as much age diversity as

possible. But it comes down to budget. If I can
only have one female model, she has to appeal to
a diverse audience. Then you have to be realistic
and pick an age that is relative to the majority of
the purchasing demographic.

If I am allowed one male, one female, I make sure

one of them is the opposite in terms of ethnicity
to the other; to promote as much diversity as
possible; which still could be done more.

163
 BOBBI
RAE
A Feminst Illustrators perspective on social
media and its impact on her practice

Article By: Bobbi Rae

Illustrations: Bobbi Rae

Bobbi Rae is an Illustrator based in Leeds, West

Yorkshire whom provokes thought and a deeper
sense of personal connection and intellect
through her feminist artwork. Her outlook is
empowering, inspiring and for the greater good
of women and their rights to be whom they are,
or want to be.

164
 BOBBIrae

Drawn Together

Many girls that I know find discomfort in

themselves when they use social media - over-
comparisons, over-evaluation, over-judgement;
based on unrealistic expectations set by the
highlight reels of other beautiful women.

As if life isnt already hard enough without these

unobtainable self-expectations that we permit. I AIM TO UNRAVEL
Whilst I am not usually one for so many words, THE PERCEPTION OF
through my methods of illustration, design and
craft, I aim to unravel the perception of beauty, BEAUTY, TO PROMOTE
to promote liberation and celebrate women of
all shapes, sizes, colours and creeds.
LIBERATION AND
CELEBRATE WOMEN
As a feminist illustrator, it is important to me
to convey my beliefs, however, I am also able to OF ALL SHAPES, SIZES,
use these advantages to test, develop and create COLOURS & CREEDS.
new audiences for my work. These serve the
financial imperatives of practice, demanded by
contemporary consumer culture, which instills a
feeling of servitude; I am in owance to my crowd
to provide a message that eeks joy, positivity
and empowerment. I feel empowered, I am
privileged, I am passionate for the fundamental
rights left to fight for. I want my audiences to
feel that.

Social media has obscene power; that not only

exists to engage diverse audiences from across
the world, but is able to promote business, to
create vision and to sell ideas. To sell you whiter
teeth, shinier hair, a different body. It is by
these very means, however, that others are able
to provide a space for dialogue, feedback and
exchange. It is in my experiences and through
the stories of others, that my own platforms
become a space for confronting gender issues
and challenging the perceived roles of women.

For more artwork, visit bobbirae.co.uk or

search @bearcubs on Instagram

167
Social media presents and represents
an impossible ideal look, the average
person cannot achieve this. If only
Instagram made real life filters... you
cant edit real life
Anon, (2017)
SAMANTHA
RAVNDAHL
The leading beauty vlogger and
influencer talks candidly about industry
pressures and self-perception issues
Model and Makeup: Samantha Ravndahl
Photography: Ruby James
Samantha Ravndahl (@ssssamanthaa), boasts a
staggering 2.4m followers on Instagram alone.
She is a Canadian beauty blogger and vlogger,
who rose to fame with her candid YouTube
channel (formerly known as Batalash Beauty)
back in 2014 before the beauty boom exploded
worldwide. Exploring the impacts that social
media platforms have had on her, Samantha
talks openly about the career path that many
find oh, so glamorous; yet behind the visage is
danger of self-perception issues.
Known for being brutally honest, loud and
brash with both personality and her style of
reviews and tutorials alike, Samantha gives
her account of her experience as a modern
day influencer and the subsequent pressures
which go hand-in-hand with such title.
Anyone would of thought that being a beauty
influencer would be the dream job; events,
freebies, sponsorships and constant admiration.
But what happens when you reach a level of
influence that starts to in turn influence your
own behaviour and believes? With a large social
media following, fans and high expectations, it
can be hard to break away after growing to an
exponentially high status of admiration.
Everyone expects me to look like I do on
Instagram all the time. I dont wear glam makeup
all the time, Samantha states. She continues,
you know, everyone expects you to look
photo-ready all the fucking time, hinting at
competitive and exceptive behaviours from
social media communities and social groups. It
appears it is taken that what is seen on social
171
SAMANTHAravndahl
media is real, and not edited, airbrushed
and well photoshopped imagery forming part
of the act, therefore it is expected you look
the same in day to day life, all the time. Its
become a competition about who can look the
most fucking glamorous at 8am in the gym. And
then document it on social media, Samantha
claims hinting at the narcissist traits of those
involved in the industry. All this has done to
me is cheapen all the experiences I have. Like,
I get taken away to amazing places I could only
dream of, and Im not even taking the scenery in
or where I am. Its become about where the best
lighting is, or what acts as the best backdrop for
a photo to post online.
Its painful to hear that social media and the
opinions of others can damage someones life
experiences, as well as their values and self
confidence. Samantha states that she was taken
away by an undisclosed brand for a launch event,
and was bought clothes to wear, even though
she took her own, and that she was the only
influencer in the group to have this experience;
they must of thought I was too casual or
something, it sucks, its like let me be me. The
role of an influencer these days is that you are
paid to be beautiful and look a certain way, and
apparently I didnt look that certain way. create their own lipstick shade to be sold in
But, it seems that influencer and blogger culture
hasnt always been this way; this culture, was
initially a positive experience, where blogging
originally had an emphasis on makeup artistry
skillset, and actually being fucking good at the
craft, opposed to this present day ideology of
being classed as an influencer and how many
likes or views you get. This change echos the
increase of beauty bloggers and YouTubers
around the world, apparently in the West.
It seems that everyone wants a piece of the
influencer game, which in turn has become
damaging to those working in it, as well as those
who view it for fun or guidance.
Samantha at one point in her career, was
massively against sponsorships and undisclosed
advertisements, but now with her increased
following has been offered many opportunities
172
EVERYONE EXPECTS
YOU TO LOOK
PHOTO-READY ALL
THE FUCKING TIME
following has been offered many opportunities
and now makes it clear in all of her posts and
videos, which are and are not sponsored. Im
not gonna lie, if someone offers you $5000 and
you get taken to Bora Bora to promote a brand,
or a brand offers you money to do a video, or
go to an event and talk about a specific product,
you arent gonna turn that down. Who would? We
all have to live and have bills to pay, Samantha
states openly and honestly. March 2017 also saw
the launch of Samanthas own MAC Lipstick in
collaboration with the brand. 10 of the worlds
largest influencers
influencers were offered the opportunity to
their native countries; a very clever marketing
and PR trick from the global brand, whilst also
promoting their social media accounts in a new,
tactical methods.
It appears that the influencer industry is growing,
and Samantha knows she got lucky with her
success - it was all about the timing, and I think
I offered something different at the time, as
well as being honest about shit. I wont say I like
something if I dont and I wont work with brands
I dont agree with - and is now successful
enough to pick and choose who she works with.
But at the same time, self-perceptions and
selfhood are being dented, manipulated and
criticised all the time, in person and on social
media. So, this begs the question, is there ever a
way back down to normality when you reach the
top of your game, or is this something that you
have to learn to live with?
173