Wood finishes

Use stain and other wood finishes to protect wood from the elements while leaving it's natural
beauty exposed. Be sure to select the correct finish for your application.

Primers

Primer/sealers work to eliminate stains (including stains from water and fire damage), cover wood
imperfections, hide wallpaper designs and serve as a foundation coat on metals over which a
finish coat is applied. They also seal the surface evenly so a topcoat will have uniform gloss.

There are three basic types: alkyd based, latex based and shellac based. The alkyd and latex
types work well as stain killers and general-purpose primers on both interiors and exteriors.

The shellac-based type blocks out the widest variety of stains, including knots and sap streaks in new
wood, and adheres to slick surfaces such as glass and tile. This type is recommended for general-
purpose priming on all interior surfaces, but should only be used for spot priming on exterior surfaces.

Acrylic or vinyl-acrylic latexes are the most frequently sold latex-based primers, but vinyl-based types
are available. The term "latex-based" includes vinyl, acrylic and vinyl-acrylic copolymer types.

Wood Sealer

Wood sealer is used on soft woods to help tame wild grain patterns and even-out stain absorbency.
The sealer penetrates the wood, slowing stain absorbency for a more even color appearance and
grain pattern.

Wood Stains

Stains accent grain without hiding it and protect the wood surface. There are two types of stain:
semitransparent and semisolid. Semitransparent stains can be applied over bare wood or previously
semitransparent stained (but not sealed) wood. Solid color stains can be applied over bare wood,
previously stained and even painted surfaces in sound condition.

Exterior stains are used primarily on wood siding and shingles, decks, outdoor structures and
furniture. They are available in latex and oil-based formulas. Latex stains do not typically fade as
rapidly as oil stains. Latex stains are often recommended for redo over previously oil-based stained or
painted surfaces due to their excellent adhesion properties.

Latex is recommended for woods such as cedar, redwood and cypress that have natural resistance to
rotting. However, putting a light-colored stain on these woods can result in brown discoloration of the
stain. Oil-based stains also take more abuse than latex types.

When staining exterior wood decks, only semitransparent oil-based stains should be used. If the deck
is made of pressure-treated wood, it should be stained two to five months after installation.
Water-repellent preservative stains contain a fungicide and a water repellent, protecting against
decay, mildew, warping, splitting and cracking, as well as wood deterioration. They can be oil- or
latex-based stains in semitransparent and transparent finishes.

Interior stains, used for furniture and woodwork, come in either pigmented or dye categories. Both can
have oil or synthetic bases.

Pigmented stains color the wood with the same type of pigments used in paint. They range in color
from almost clear to semitransparent. They are easy to apply, usually brushed on or wiped on with a
rag, and then wiped off to control the depth of the stain. They leave no brush or lap marks if applied
properly.

Stains are generally used to enhance the grain of the wood and emphasize grain contrasts. They may
or may not protect the wood; check manufacturers' labels. An oil or polyurethane finish is generally
mixed with the stain, so the do-it-yourselfer can complete the staining and finishing job in one step.

Dye stains are more difficult to use and are more frequently used by professionals. Most come in
powders, to be mixed in a solvent. Most are highly flammable. Premixed dyes are most often used by
the d-i-y-er.

Dye stains offer deeper penetration of wood surfaces and less grain hiding. However, they also fade
more quickly than pigmented stains and require more effort to prepare the wood.

Water-based dyes tend to raise the grain on many woods because the water penetrates the wood and
raises the tiny fibers. Wood should be wetted first, then sanded down, before applying water-based
dyes.

Nongrain-raising (NGR) dyes are dissolved in a NGR solvent. They dry faster than water-based
counterparts, so application must be faster to avoid lap marks.

Colored oil finishes, such as Danish oil, tung oil or Swedish oil, provide coloring and protection in one
step. However, oil finishes do not stand up to alcohol or water the way polyurethanes do, so they are
not recommended for high-traffic, abuse-prone applications.

But oils make nice, low-luster finishes for furniture and other fine pieces. Waxing can provide water
resistance with these finishes.

Varnishes

Varnish is a blend of oils and resins that coats the surface of wood and gives a transparent, protective
coating, allowing the beauty of the wood to show through. Depending on its formulation, it can leave a
gloss, semigloss or satin finish.

All varnishes must be applied to a clean, dust-free surface in a dirt-free area with a clean brush. Dust
can damage the wet surface.

Varnishes fall into four groups, divided by their base: alkyd, polyurethane, latex, or phenolic.
Varnishes are typically mixed with a tung oil or linseed oil.
Phenolic varnishes of modified phenolic oils are the most expensive of the varnishes but deliver the
best performance in terms of durability, especially in exterior uses. They absorb ultraviolet light and
neutralize oxidation. The downside of phenoics is that they tend to yellow faster than other varnishes.

Alkyd varnishes offer flexibility and hardness in both interior and exterior uses, but they oxidize more
quickly in exterior use. However, they do not yellow as much as phenolics.

Polyurethanes are not generally recommended for outdoor use. They yellow and crack when exposed
to ultraviolet light unless ultraviolet light absorbers are added to make the polyurethanes more durable
for outdoor use. Check manufacturer specifications.

Polyurethanes are highly recommended for interior use because of their superior protection. For
interior use, phenolic or polyurethane stains are better for water resistance and hard use, but
customers may object to the plastic appearance they produce. Alkyds offer a natural-looking gloss for
furniture and indoor architectural trim and doors.

There are varnishes that offer the cleanup convenience of water-based latex coatings. These
varnishes combine polymers with urethane or acrylic polymers. These water-based products offer the
advantages of oil-based coatings and the cleanup convenience of water. The acrylic coatings take
from one-half hour to 1 1/2 hours to dry and do not yellow the wood. Some acrylic-based varnishes
are durable enough for use on floors.

Except for two-package or moisture-cured urethanes, exterior clear finishes do not last as long as
pigmented stains or paints.

Shellac

Shellac provides a fast, hard-drying, durable finish for furniture, woodwork, hardwood floors and other
wood-finishing applications. It also functions as a sealer and stain killer on drywall, cured plaster and
new wood. Shellac is widely compatible with other coatings, and it can be applied over old shellac,
varnish or lacquer finishes that are adhering well.

Most shellac is sold in a "3-lb. cut," the consistency recommended for most uses. The 3-lb. cut can be
thinned to a 1-lb. cut for applications such as wood sealer before staining by thinning one quart of
shellac with three pints of alcohol.

For applications where water spotting may be a problem, protect shellacked surfaces with paste wax
or varnish.

Shellac may be applied with a brush, foam brush or from an aerosol can. When brushing, flow on the
shellac from a full brush with minimum brushing, and do not re-brush areas, since shellac's alcohol-
based solvent dries quickly. Shellac offers convenient cleanup in ammonia and warm water.

Wood Preservatives

All wood preservatives must contain an EPA-registered fungicide to classify as wood preservatives.
Pressure-treated wood, with lifetime warranties, does not require a brush-on preservative coating.
Brush-on preservatives are used for untreated wood and should be reapplied periodically.

They are generally classified as one of three types. A clear alkyd or oil-based type without fungicide is
sometimes called log oil or log-cabin finish. The second type has the same base with fungicide
additives of penta, cuprinol or a preservative. The third type consists of a non-paintable preservative
containing wax or creosote oil, primarily for farm use.

Wood preservatives for the d-i-y-er generally should be paintable.

Wood preservatives by themselves provide no protection against moisture or water. Water repellency
must be formulated into the product. The preservative chemical used varies according to need and
type of exposure.

Waterborne, water-repellent preservatives for wood offer lower environmental hazards and
convenient water cleanup. They provide an alternative to conventional solvent-based water-repellent
preservatives while retaining effectiveness, rapid drying qualities and excellent paintability. Another
preservative, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, is offered in some of these waterborne
preservatives.

Water Repellent

A water repellent helps minimize water damage on pressure-treated and untreated wood. Some water
repellents also contain a mildewcide to help control mold and mildew growth. It's best to use a water
repellent that is formulated for immediate application to pressure-treated wood to avoid premature
cracking, splitting, splintering and warping. Periodic re-applications help prevent water damage as
wood ages.

Wood-Toner Water Repellents

Wood toners are water repellents that add color to highlight wood grain. Although toners are not to be
considered a stain, adding color to a water repellent gives wood the benefit of ultraviolet light
protection. Most toners on the market are designed for use on pressure-treated wood. Not all
repellents contain ingredients that cause water to bead.

Lead Warning

About two thirds of the homes built before 1940 and one-half of the homes built from 1940 to 1960
contain heavily leaded paint. Some homes built after 1960 also contain heavily leaded paint. The sale
of lead-based paint for residential use was banned in 1978. Lead can be on the walls, the woodwork
and on the outside of houses.

Lead paint in good condition is not usually a problem except in places where painted surfaces rub
against one another and create dust. For example, when you open a window, the painted surfaces
rub against one another. In older buildings where the paint is not in good condition, lead paint can
chip off or wear off. Lead dust and chips can also be created during preparation of surfaces for
painting and during renovating or remodeling. The dust and chips are especially hazardous to small
children.

Lead can be harmful even at Iow levels. Even children who appear healthy may have high levels of
lead in their blood. You can't tell if a child has lead poisoning unless you have him or her tested. In
many cases, the harm lead causes cannot be reversed.

Being exposed to lead can affect a child's mental growth. Lead interferes with nervous system
development, which can cause learning disabilities and impaired hearing. Children with lead
poisoning may complain of headaches or stomach aches or become very grouchy, but they often
show no symptoms of lead poisoning.

Adults can get lead poisoning through occupational exposure as well as through home renovation and
remodeling activities. In adults, lead's health effects include high blood pressure. In extreme cases,
lead poisoning can cause comas, kidney or brain damage, or death.

If you are remodeling, test for lead paint first. Some local health departments offer a lead testing
service. If this service is not available, you should hire a qualified inspector.

If high levels of lead are detected, you should not attempt to remove the lead paint yourself. Instead,
you should hire a person who is specially trained to correct lead paint problems, who knows how to do
the work safely and has the proper equipment to clean up thoroughly. Improper removal of heavily
leaded paint can endanger the health and lives of the entire family.

Contact the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-LEAD-FYI for information. The purpose of this
federally funded service is to provide information to the public on lead.

Environmental Effects

Paint can be highly toxic to the environment. It harms fish and wildlife, and contaminates the food
chain if poured down a storm drain. It can also pollute groundwater if dumped on the ground. Pouring
excess paint down the drain disrupts microbes and causes sewage treatment to be less effective and
more costly. If thrown into the trash it can contaminate other recyclable materials, thus wasting
valuable resources.

Waste Disposal

In California it is illegal to dispose of paint in the trash or down storm drains or sewer drains.

The first two rinses of applicators must be collected and treated as hazardous waste. Follow all
hazardous waste guidelines for labeling and storing. According to the California Department of Toxic
Substance Control, it's illegal to air dry or mix small amounts of latex paint with any substance for the
purpose of solidifying it and disposing of it. This practice is considered "treatment of a hazardous
waste." However, if latex paint has naturally dried out, it may be disposed of in the trash. Empty
containers may be thrown in the trash. A container is considered "empty" if no paint pours out when it
is held upside down, or any paint remaining in the container can't be removed by chipping or scraping.

If you are outside of California, you may contact your local municipality for disposal information.