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Introduction within the latitudes 20 north or south of the equator, in the
tropical regions. The several types or varieties of cocoa usually are
The primary objectives of cocoa and coffee fermentations are classied in to three main groups: Forastero, Trinitario, and
the removal of mucilage from coffee and cocoa beans and the Criollo. Trinitario is considered to be derived from hybrids
development of a number of avor precursors in cocoa. Cocoa between various Forastero and Criollo varieties. Forastero is high
is made from the seeds (beans) of the cacao plant, the fruit of yielding, more pest and diseases resistant, more drought tolerant,
which is a pod containing up to 50 beans covered in white and the most commercially grown variety all over the world. The
mucilage. The mucilage is fermented by yeasts, and then beans, quality of nal cocoa products is the result of the volatile and
which darken during the week-long fermentation, are dried and nonvolatile compounds in the product that depends upon the
roasted. The manufacture of coffee from ripe coffee fruits genotype, agroclimatic conditions, drying, fermentation, and
requires the initial removal of a sticky mucilaginous mesocarp production processes. The avor potential of cocoa is deter-
from around the two beans in each fruit. The outer skin of the mined genetically and depends mainly on the variety. Forastero
fruit is mechanically disrupted, and the whole is left to ferment. types (e.g., Amelonado, Amazon varieties) are bulk cocoas used
The mucilage is degraded by the fruits own enzymes and by for milk chocolates and for cocoa butter and powder production.
microbial extracellular enzymes. After fermentation, the beans They account for 95% of the crop. Criollo (light brown in color)
are washed, dried, blended, and roasted. and Trinitario are ne cocoas; they are used for specialty dark
The popularity of cocoa and coffee is derived from their chocolates because of their particular avor and color
unique and complex avors and possibly also from the presence characteristics.
of caffeine and similar compounds that may have a mild stim-
ulatory effect. The avors are initially developed during pro-
Cacao Fruit
cessing immediately after harvesting. This avor development
involves the action of various enzymes on the polyphenols,
T. cacao bears small owers in small groups on the trunks and lower
proteins, and carbohydrates. Unlike many other fermented
main branches of the trees. Pollinated owers develop into berries
products, it is those endogenous enzymes that are mainly
(pods), maturing over a 56 month period. The berry is a drupe
responsible. In cocoa, the role of microorganisms is limited to
2.54.0 cm by 1.251.75 cm in size, containing 2040 seeds
the removal of the pulp that surrounds the fresh seeds or beans.
(beans) embedded in a mass of mucilaginous pulp (Figure 1).
The microbial activities result in the death of the bean and the
creation of the environment for development of avor precur-
sors. In coffee, their role is limited to the removal of the pulp in
some of the processing methods. During this initial processing,
a number of avor precursors are formed, which in cocoa and
coffee are further modied in Maillard reactions during roasting.
In cocoa, there is also a reduction in bitterness and astringency
caused by the oxidation of polyphenolic compounds.
Cocoa
The fermentation stage is of major importance in determining When the beans are removed from the pods, the pulp is inoc-
the quality of cocoa powder and chocolate confectionery. It has ulated with a variety of microorganisms from the environment.
three purposes: The pulp is an excellent medium for the growth of microor-
ganisms because it contains plenty of sugars (Table 1). The
l Liquefaction and removal of the mucilaginous pulp
following types of microorganisms have been found in the
l Killing of the bean
pulp fermentation (although only a few are actively involved):
l Initiating the development of aroma, avor, and color
Acetobacter, Aerobacter, Arthrobacter, Azotomonas, Bacillus, Cellu-
lomonas, Corynebacterium, Erwinia, Escherichia, Lactobacillus,
Microbacterium, Micrococcus, Pediococcus, Propionibacterium,
Procedures of Fermentation Pseudomonas, Sarcina, Serratia, Staphylococcus, Streptococcus,
Zymomonas, and yeasts.
Three main methods of fermentation are used in various parts of The fermentation consists of three overlapping phases. The
the world. The best fermentations results are obtained at total count of microorganisms increases in the rst 2436 h
maximum temperature close to 50 C (ranging from 45 to 50 C). (105106 organisms per gram) and then stabilizes or gradually
reduces.
1. Heap method: The simplest method, used in West Africa,
requires no special apparatus. In this method, beans are
piled up underneath plantain leaves, covering the surface Phase 1: Anaerobic Yeasts
and bottom of the pile. To assist the sweatings to run away,
In the rst 2436 h, sugars are converted into alcohol in
the pile is built up over radially arranged pieces of wood.
conditions of low oxygen and a pH of below 4.
The pile is kept together for 6 days and turned on the second
and fourth days. This has the effect of making the aerobic
parts anaerobic and vice versa. Piles vary in size and can be
60120 cm in diameter.
2. Box method: This method is used extensively in South
America and involves the fermentation of beans in large
hardwood boxes holding up to 1.5 tonnes. These boxes
have slatted bases or holes in the sides and base, which have
a twofold function. They allow the sweatings to drain away Table 1 Composition of fresh pulp from cocoa
and permit the access of air. Often, these boxes are stacked
stepwise and have removable sides, allowing easy transfer of Component Fresh weight of pulp (%)
beans to the box below. In this system, the rst box often
Water 8286
has twice the surface area of the other boxes and is half the
Mono- and disaccharides 1113
depth. A covering of sacking or plantain leaves is placed over
Plant cell-wall polymers 1.52.8
the surface of the beans. Six changes usually take place in Proteins, peptides, and amino acids 0.640.74
this system in 24 h. Fat 0.350.75
3. Other methods: In these other methods, beans may be Citrate 0.291.3
placed in a plantain leaf-lined basket and left to ferment, or Trace metals, vitamins, ethanol, etc. Trace
they may be placed in a hole in the ground. These methods
Adapted from Fowler, M.S., Leheup, P. and Cordier, J.L., 1998. Cocoa, Coffee and
have the disadvantage of low initial aeration and lack of Tea. In: Wood, B.J.B. (Ed.), Microbiology of Fermented Foods, second ed. vol. 1,
drainage for the sweatings. Blackie, London, 128. with due acknowledgment to Professor B.J.B. Wood.
Cocoa and Coffee Fermentations 487
Adapted from M.S., Leheup, P. and Cordier, J.L., 1998. Cocoa, Coffee and Tea. In: Wood, B.J.B. (Ed.), Microbiology of Fermented Foods, second ed. vol. 1, Blackie, London,
128. with due acknowledgment to Professor B.J.B. Wood.
Adapted from M.S., Leheup, P. and Cordier, J.L., 1998. Cocoa, Coffee and Tea. In: Wood, B.J.B. (Ed.), Microbiology of Fermented Foods, second ed. vol. 1, Blackie, London,
128. with due acknowledgment to Professor B.J.B. Wood.
Adapted from M.S., Leheup, P. and Cordier, J.L., 1998. Cocoa, Coffee and Tea. In: Wood, B.J.B. (Ed.), Microbiology of Fermented Foods, second ed. vol. 1, Blackie, London,
128. with due acknowledgment to Professor B.J.B. Wood.
Yeasts isolated from cocoa fermentations (Table 2) produce Phase 3: Acetic Acid Bacteria
pectinolytic enzymes that break down the pulp cell walls. This
Acetic acid bacteria occur very early in fermentation (Table 4)
process causes the pulp to drain off the beans as sweatings. The
and persist until the end of the process. As aeration increases,
spaces formed between the beans allow air to enter. Bean death,
acetic acid bacteria become more important. The main reaction
which usually occurs on the second day, is caused by acetic acid
is the conversion of ethanol to acetic acid.
and ethanol; the rise in temperature does not play any part in
the chemical changes but has a role in the color formation.
and Bacillus stearothermophilus accounted for more than caffeine are diffused and exudated from the bean, reducing the
half the isolates after 120 h. The most commonly present astringent and bitter taste.
fungi, Aspergillus, Mucor, Penicillium, and Rhizopus, are largely
restricted to the outer surface of the fermenting and drying
beans because they are strongly aerobic, tolerant of low water Flavor-Developing Compounds
activity, and can continue growth until the beans are
nearly dry. Following are the compounds responsible for the main avor
attributes and precursors in cocoa (also presented in Figure 2).
1. Methylxanthines (caffeine and theobromine) impart
Effect of Fermentation on Product Quality bitterness. During fermentation, the levels of methylxan-
thines fall by around 30%, probably by diffusion from the
Development of Cocoa Flavor Precursors
cotyledons.
Flavor development occurs within the cotyledons in the bean. 2. Polyphenolic compounds impart astringency. The levels
The compounds involved in avor development are split drop signicantly during fermentation and drying. Antho-
between two types of cells: storage cells containing fats and cyanins are rapidly hydrolyzed to cyanidins and sugars
proteins, and pigment cells containing the phenolic com- (catalyzed by glycosidases). This accounts for bleaching of
pounds and xanthines. the purple color of the cotyledons. Polyphenol oxidases
In the fresh, live cocoa seeds, the cells and their contents are convert the polyphenols (mainly catechin) to quinones.
separated by membranes. During fermentation, germination is Proteins and peptides complex with polyphenols give rise to
rst initiated, which causes water uptake by the protein vacu- the brown coloration typical of fermented cocoa beans.
oles within the cells. Later, after bean death, the membranes 3. Maillard reaction precursors are formed from sucrose and
break down. Various enzymes and substrates are then free to storage proteins. Sucrose is converted by invertase into
mix, and the subsequent reactions produce the avor precur- reducing sugars. Fructose is found in fermented dried cocoa
sors. The pH, determined mainly by diffusion of acetic acid, is beans, and glucose is utilized in further reactions. The
important, and the reaction rates are increased by the warm storage proteins are initially hydrolyzed by an aspartic
temperatures during fermentation and drying. endopeptidase (pH optimum 3.5) into hydrophobic oli-
During fermentation, reducing sugars are released and gopeptides. A carboxypeptidase (pH optimum 5.45.8)
proteins are degraded by enzymes to polypeptides and amino then converts these oligopeptides into hydrophilic oligo-
acids, and these sugars form chocolate avor precursors. A peptides and hydrophobic amino acids. These are cocoa
portion of the polyphenols is oxidized, forming large tannin avor precursors involved in Maillard reactions during
molecules. The rest of the polyphenols, theobromine, and roasting to form cocoa avor compounds.
Figure 2 Biochemical change in cocoa during fermentation process (Cross section of cocoa seed). Adopted from presentation from Smilja Lambert,
Mars, Inc.
Cocoa and Coffee Fermentations 489
Drying
Coffee
day fruit or pulp should not be mixed with the fresh, and physiological activities of the wild microorganisms as well as
pulped water should not be used for washing, as it spoils the those in the bean. Because commercial enzymes are applied by
quality. Fruit skins separated in the pulping process should be mixing them with coffee in fermentation tanks, only a little
taken away as soon as possible to avoid the microbial saving of space is afforded by their use in the normal factory
decomposition of skins. routine.
Pulping involves the removal of the coffee skin by a suitable
mechanical method, such as using a machine aqua-pulper.
Stages of the Coffee Fermentation
After pulping, coffee is fermented. Fermentation of coffee is the
process by which the mucilaginous mesocarp adhering to the Various factory practices increase the rate of fermentation.
coffee parchment is degraded by enzymes. The mucilage is These include dry feeding pulped coffee into fermentation
subsequently washed off to leave parchment coffee, which is tanks and using recirculated water that is rich in enzymes.
subjected to a drying regime to obtain a moisture content of Sophisticated factories aerate or use other additives that
1011%. Coffee fermentation accomplishes two important enhance enzyme activity. The addition of lime provides
objectives. It removes the sticky mucilage layer allowing for calcium ions that activate specic enzymes. After the mucilage
quick drying of the parchment coffee and improves the has been degraded, parchment coffee is washed and graded by
appearance of the raw beans. water in concrete canals.
In East Africa, a two-stage fermentation procedure includes
a quick-dry fermentation stage, washing off the mucilage, fol-
Procedure of Coffee Mucilage Removal lowed by a 24 h underwater soak. The advantages of this
procedure include improvement of the raw beans appearance
By Natural Fermentation
through the outward diffusion of undesirable browning
Coffee fermentation is required for the removal of mucilage compounds from the beans, specically from the center cut and
from parchment coffee. Natural fermentation refers to the the silver skin. Coffee fermented underwater or processed by
process of mucilage removal by enzymes naturally occurring in the two-stage fermentation procedure tends to deteriorate in
the coffee fruit and/or elaborated by the natural microora quality during drying because of the preponderance of cracked
acquired from the environment. Pulped coffee is placed in parchment. This may be avoided by subsequent carefully
concrete or wooden tanks and left to ferment, either under controlled drying.
water or with constant drainage of water and mucilage liquors. Natural fermentation of coffee is carefully controlled;
The latter process, known as dry fermentation, is preferred; otherwise, off avors can develop and be reected in the nal
underwater fermentation is slower and results in a greater liquor quality. Onion avor develops in coffee as a result of the
production of volatile acids, which may taint the nal coffee production of propionic acid. The production of propionic and
beverage. Natural fermentation takes 20100 h; its duration butyric acids during the nal stages of fermentation is greater
varies with the stage of ripeness, temperature, pH value, during underwater fermentation and is also dependent on
concentration of ions, coffee variety, microora population, a heavy initial washing before fermentation. The incidence of
and aeration. It has been demonstrated that lowering the an off avor, referred to as stinkers, may be associated with
temperature and pH value retards the rate of fermentation and high temperatures reached during fermentation. The taste of
that aerobic fermentations are faster than anaerobic fermenta- sourness and stinkers in coffee is caused by fermentation under
tions. It would be expected that the availability of oxygen under anaerobic conditions created by high proportions of reducing
water is restricted by the amount that can dissolve in the water agents in the fermentation waters. Off avors in coffee are
at any given time. The fermentation process should be carefully caused by various factors that need proper investigation based
monitored and stopped as soon as fermentation is complete, as on a correct understanding of the biochemistry involved in the
an extended fermentation can lead to harsh off-coffee avors fermentation process. This problem has led to the introduction
(ferment). of various methods of coffee processing that do not depend on
natural fermentation and therefore is easier to control.
However, the delicate nature of the coffee-bean tissue dees
By Commercial Enzymes
any attempts to rid it completely of off avors as detected by
Several commercial enzymes are available for coffee fermen- a subjective human palate.
tation. The earliest one was marketed under the trade name
Benefax. Later brands have included Pectozyme, Cofepec, and
Ultrazym. These are mold-enzyme preparations with appro- Biochemistry of Coffee Fermentation
priate inert llers. The commercial enzymes are generally
Composition of Mucilage
mixtures of pectic enzymes but may contain hemicellulases and
cellulases. Because of nancial constraints, these enzymes have The chemical and physical characteristics of coffee mucilage are
not been widely used. Most factories restrict the use of basic to an understanding of coffee fermentation. Mucilage
commercial enzymes to peak production periods or when forms 2025%, wet basis layer of 0.52.0 mm thickness.
natural fermentations are slow. Conditions created by over- Chemically, coffee mucilage consists of all of the higher plant
production and slow fermentations usually upset the smooth cell materials, including water, sugars, pectic substances, hol-
running of a factory. Congestion can occur either in fermen- ocellulose, lipids, and proteins (Table 5). The most important
tation and soaking tanks or on drying tables. These conditions chemical components of mucilage are pectic substances
affect the coffee quality adversely because of the concomitant together with carbohydrates and their breakdown products.
Cocoa and Coffee Fermentations 491
Wet basis
Moisture 85.0
Total carbohydrates 7.0
Nitrogen 0.15
Acidity (as citric acid) 0.08
Alcohol-insoluble compounds 5.0
Pectin (as galacturonic acid) 2.6
Dry basis
Pectic substances 33
Reducing sugars 30 Figure 4 Products of coffee fermentation.
Non reducing sugars 20
Cellulose and ash 17
6. Carboxylic acids are produced through the degradation of
sugars by microorganisms.
The important component in the coffee fermentation is 7. Ethanol is one of the products of coffee fermentation
mainly the cell wall and the intercellular material characteristic (Figure 4). The evolution of hydrogen and carbon dioxide
of the parenchymatous cells of fruits. The middle lamella of occurs during both dry and underwater fermentations.
coffee mucilage cells is primarily pectinic, and the cell contains Hydrogen is produced through the breakdown of sugars by
pectin and cellulose materials. The insoluble fraction of coffee bacteria of the coliform group. Escherichia coli metabolize
mucilage is expected to consist mainly of pectic substances in glucose by a mixed acid fermentation at pH 7.8.
close association with other cell wall and intercellular mate- 8. Aerobacter aerogenes gives a lower yield of mixed acids,
rials, including hemicelluloses and phospho- and galactolipids. particularly of lactic acid, because some pyruvic acid is
Breakdown of this cellular material and its detachment from converted into acetylmethyl-carbinol and butanediol.
coffee parchment are important biochemical processes in 9. The presence of reducing and nonreducing sugars in
coffee fermentation. soluble mucilage fractions is observed after complete
fermentation. Some of the sugars forming part of the
Changes Resulting from Fermentation structure of mucilage are arabinose, xylose, galactose,
fructose, and glucose. Arabinose, xylose, and galactose are
1. When coffee is pulped and left in a dry heap or under water, part of the insoluble structure of mucilage. The soluble
fermentation occurs. After a period of 20100 h, depending sugars form an excellent medium for growth of
mainly on the environmental temperature, the mucilage microorganisms.
detaches from the parchment and can be readily washed 10. A lipid fraction isolated from fermented mucilage indi-
with water. cated the presence of an esteried sterol glycoside. Because
2. On completion of fermentation, a few beans when rubbed pectic acids with four or fewer galacturonic acid units are
in the hand feel gritty. not found in natural fermentation liquors, mucilage
3. Various chemical changes occur during the process of degradation involves breakages in cross-linkages, which
fermentation (Table 6). may implicate lipids and hemicellulose materials.
4. The production of carboxylic acids changes the pH value of 11. Changes in the quality of the coffee bean are fundamental
the fermentation liquor from 5.9 to 4.0. Acetic and lactic to the continued practice of naturally fermenting coffee. In
acids (also sometimes propionic acid) are produced early the two-stage fermentation process (in East Africa), the raw
in coffee fermentation, and propionic and butyric acids are bean quality improves, and this improvement is reected
produced later. in the roast and nal beverage quality. The improvement
5. A close positive correlation exists between the appearance in raw appearance is dependent on the diffusion of various
of propionic acid in the fermentation stage and the inci- compounds from the bean, which also result in weight
dence of onion avor in coffee beverages. losses of 312%.
12. The higher weight losses are observed in underwater
Table 6 The composition of coffee mucilage before fermentations. This magnitude of loss would make
and after complete fermentation fermentation an expensive exercise, thus nullifying the
gains in raw bean quality. Despite these observations,
Percentage on dry basis natural fermentation of C. arabica is the preferred dimu-
Component Before fermentation (%) After fermentation (%) cilaging method.
lipids, it forms a good medium for microbial growth. Bacteria eliminate undesirable components is thus recommended,
observed in fermenting coffee include lactic acid-producing although some losses in caffeine and chlorogenic acids may be
bacteria of the genera Leuconostoc and Lactobacillus, coliform observed. Apart from aspects related to fermentation, the
bacteria resembling species of the genera Aerobacter and growth of microorganisms in beans has been linked to the
Escherichia (in Brazilian coffee), and pectinolytic species of the development of off avors and off tastes and the presence of
genus Bacillus. mycotoxins. Beans causing rio taste showed the presence of
A microbial succession, involving members of the Enter- bacteria and molds. The presence of 2,4,6-trichloroanisole,
obacteriaceae, species of Enterococcus, and lactic acid which can be produced by molds, has been detected in beans
bacteria, plays some part in the lowering of the pH value to showing organoleptic deviations.
about 4.3, which tends to inhibit the activity of pectinolytic
enzymes. This inhibited activity prevents the growth of many
spoilage microorganisms. The extensive growth of micro-
See also: Lactobacillus: Introduction; The Leuconostocaceae
oganisms is likely to lead to the development of undesirable
Family.
avors.
Bacteria belonging to the family Enterobacteriaceae found
in Congo coffee are similar to those isolated from fermenting
Brazilian coffee. They resemble closely Erwinia dissolvens and
Further Reading
Erwinia atroseptica.
Pectinolytic microorganisms isolated from coffee fermen-
Arunga, R.O., 1982. Coffee. In: Rose, A.H. (Ed.), Fermented Foods, Economic
tations belong to the genera Bacillus, Erwinia, Aspergillus, Peni- Microbiology, vol. 7. Academic Press, London, p. 259.
cillium, and Fusarium. Bacterial isolates from coffee closely Carr, J.G., 1982. Cocoa. In: Rose, A.H. (Ed.), Fermented Foods, Economic Microbi-
correspond to E. dissolvens. ology, vol. 7. Academic Press, London, p. 275.
Yeasts in fermenting coffee have no ability to degrade Carr, J.G., 1985. Tea, coffee and cocoa. In: Wood, B.J.B. (Ed.), Microbiology of
Fermented Foods, vol. 1. Elsevier, London, p. 133. Full Text via CrossRef j View
pectin; however, some mucilage-degrading yeasts are found on
Record in Scopus j Cited By in Scopus (10).
the surface of C. canephora. Castelein, J., Verachtert, H., 1983. Coffee fermentation. In: Rehm, H.J., Reed, G.
Mold enzymes are known to speed up mucilage breakdown. (Eds.), Biotechnology, vol. 5. VCH, Weinheim, p. 588.
Fungi of the genera Aspergillus, Fusarium, and Penicillium were Central Coffee Research Institute, 2008. Coffee Cultivation Guide for South-West
isolated from depulped coffee. Monsoon Area Growers in India (Coffee Kaipidi). Director of Research, Central
Coffee Research Institute, Chikmagalur, Karnataka, India.
Fowler, M.S., Leheup, P., Cordier, J.L., 1998. Cocoa, coffee and tea. In: Wood, B.J.B.
Effect of Fermentation on Product Quality (Ed.), Microbiology of Fermented Foods, second ed. vol. 1. Blackie, London, p. 128.
Haarer, A.E., 1962. Modern Coffee Production, second ed. Leonard Hill, London,
The aim of the fermentation is the degradation of the residual p. 492.
Lopez, A.S., Dimick, P.S., 1995. Cocoa fermentation. In: Reed, G.,
mucilage layer, which contains up to 30% pectin. The positive
Nagodawithana, T.W. (Eds.), Biotechnology Enzymes, Biomass and Feed, second
aspects linked with the development of avors, tastes, and ed. vol. 9. VCH, Weinheim, p. 561.
change in texture normally associated with fermentation Nielsen, D.S., Snitkjaer, P., van den Berg, F., 2008. Investigating the fermentation of
processes are not considered important for coffee. However, cocoa by correlating denaturing gradient gel electrophoresis proles and near
certain organoleptic and visual deviations are due to the infrared spectra. Int. J. Food Microbiol. 125, 133140.
Varnam, A.H., Sutherland, J.P., 1994. Cocoa, Drinking Chocolate and Related
formation of aliphatic acids, which is increased by underwater Beverages. In: Beverages: Technology, Chemistry and Microbiology. Chapman and
fermentation. This is in contrast to dry fermentation, in which Hall, London, p. 256.
water is drained away immediately. Washing or soaking to Wrigley, G., 1988. Coffee. Longman, Harlow.