Charlottes Dream Pattern

Dedri Uys and Jenny Lowman 2016. All Rights Reserved.

Materials
3.5 mm crochet hook (US 4/E, UK 9)
Scheepjes Stonewashed (Sport weight/#2)
Contrasting Colours (CC)/ Colour A* 2 skeins (220 meters) each of Rose Quartz (820), Yellow
Jasper (809), Lilac Quartz (818), Garnet (810), Deep Amethyst (811), Lemon Quartz (812),
Carnelian (823), Amazonite (813), Canada Jade (806), Blue Apatite (805), Coral (816), and Green
Agate (815)
Main Colour 1 (MC1)/ Colour B* 12 skeins (1500 meters) of Moon Stone (801)
Main Colour 2 (MC2)/ Colour C* 12 skeins (1450 meters) of Smokey Quartz (802)

* The square was originally designed using the colour references Colour A, Colour B, and Colour C. When
following the photo tutorials for the individual squares, you will replace Colour A with CC, Colour B with MC1,
and Colour C with MC2 as listed above.

Yarn packs for this project are available from Wool Warehouse (offers international shipping and includes
printed version of the pattern). You can also buy Stonewashed from Scheepjes (NL).

Abbreviations
US Terminology {US/UK Conversion HERE}
 Ch Chain
BP Back post (insert your hook from back to front around the post of the indicated stitch and complete
the stitch as normal)
CC Contrasting colour
Dc Double crochet
FP Front post (insert your hook from front to back around the post of the indicated stitch and complete
the stitch as normal)
Hdc Half-double crochet
MC Main colour
Sc Single crochet
Sl st Slip stitch
St/sts Stitch/stitches

The rest of the Abbreviations and Special Stitches will be found in the individual parts for the Squares ( see
Charlotte Squares below).

Punctuation
* An asterisk indicates pattern repeats. You will need to repeat all the instructions between asterisks the number
of times specified. This is a hard-core repeat and will consist of multiple instructions.

Parentheses () indicate repeats. You will need to repeat the instructions between parentheses the number of times
specified. This is a lower level repeat. Parentheses are also used to indicate a group of stitches to be worked into
the same stitch/space.

Gauge
At the end of Round 18, your square should measure 20 cm (8). Each finished square should measure 42 cm
(16.5).

Size
172 cm (68) x 130 cm (51)

Notes
The central flower of this square is textured and raised slightly above the surface. When you have only made the
flower, it will look like it bulges too much (because of all those front post stitches) but, as the square p rogresses,
this will become less noticeable. With use, the flower will relax down even further, but it will always remain
slightly raised above the surface of the square.

If you find that your flower bulges a lot and the rest of your square refuses to bec ome square by Round
18, you are making your chains too tight, and you will need to either relax your tension when making your
chains or use a bigger hook for chains only.

Resources
Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
Video tutorials for the squares (only) can be found HERE on Its All in a Nutshell.

Instructions
Charlotte Squares
You will need to make 12 squares, using a different Contrasting Colour (CC) for each square. Below you will
find the links to the 3-part Charlotte Square (published at the start of the year), as well as the two additional
rounds that will need to be added to each square before joining. Remember to reference the colours and hook size
(above) when making your squares.

Rounds 1 18: Charlotte Square Part 1 20 cm (8) at the end of Part 1 (gauge check)
Rows 19 28: Charlotte Square Part 2
Rounds 29 36: Charlotte Square Part 3 dont fasten off at the end of Round 36!
Rounds 37 and 38: Extra Rounds Below

Teil 1

Teil 2

Round 37 (CC)
Sl st into the next ch-2 corner space. Ch 2 (counts as hdc). (Hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) into the same ch-2 corner
space. This is your first corner made.
*Skip the first (hidden) stitch. Hdc in each of the remaining 85 sts across. (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch-2
corner space.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat. Join to the top of the
beginning ch-2 with a sl st. Fasten off and work away your ends.

Stitch Count: 356 hdcs and 4 ch-2 corner spaces {89 hdcs per side}

Round 38 (MC1)
Join your yarn by making a standing single crochet in any ch-2 corner space. (Ch 2, sc) in the same ch-2
space. This is your first corner made.

*BPhdc around each st. (Sc, ch 2, sc) in the next ch-2 corner space.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting
the last corner on the last repeat. Join to the first sc with a sl st. Fasten off and work away your ends.

Stitch Count: 8 scs, 356 BPhdcs, and 4 ch-2 corner spaces {2 scs and 89 BPhdcs per side}
Deciding on Your Layout
When you have made all 12 squares, you will need to join them to each other. I am going to show you how we
chose to do our layout, but you are free to move the colours around. If you do decide to move the colours, try not
to put too many light or dark colours next to each other as this will make the blanket appear a bit lopsided .
Joining the Charlotte Squares
The squares are joined using a (Sc, ch 1, skip 1) join. It yields a flat seam on the front of your work that will look
like little stitches. On the back of your work, the seam will be raised (but not as much as if you had made a sc in
each stitch). This seam is reasonably elastic, provided that you dont make your chains too tight.
The squares are joined in a grid. You will be making all the horizontal joins first, followed by the vertical
joins. Unless otherwise specified, you should be inserting your hook into both loops of both layers for each
indicated stitch. To make it easier for you to understand, I have numbered the squares from 1 to 12, starting in
the top left-hand corner and ending in the bottom right-hand corner.

Place Square 9 on top of Square 12 with right sides together. With a slip knot (MC1) already on your hook, start
joining the two squares by making a standing single crochet in the ch -2 corner space. (Ch 1, skip the next st, and
sc in the next st) until you have one stitch left before the next corner space. Ch 1, skip the last st, and sc in the
ch-2 corner space. Ch 1 before joining the next 2 squares.
Place Square 8 on top of Square 11 with right sides together. *Make a sc in the ch-2 corner space, again
remembering to work though both layers. (Ch 1, skip the next st, and sc in the next st) until you have one stitch
left before the next corner space. Ch 1, skip the last st, and sc in the ch-2 corner space. Ch 1.*

Without fastening off, place Square 7 on top of Square 10 with right sides together and repeat from * to *. Fasten
off and work away your ends.

You have now completed your first horizontal strip. Repeat the whole process, laying Square 6 on Square 9,
Square 5 on Square 8, and Square 4 on Square 7. Then repeat it again with the last 3 squares.

Now turn your blanket 90 degrees so that you can start joining the square s vertically. Fold the row containing
squares 3, 6, 9, and 12 onto the row containing squares 2, 5, 8, and 11.

Just like when you were joining the squares horizontally, repeat the instructions between asterisks (*) above for
each square, remembering to chain 1 between squares. Fasten off when you have joined all four squares and then
repeat the process to join squares 2, 5, 8, and 11 to squares 1, 4, 7, and 10.
Adding the Border
When you have joined all your squares to each other, you are ready to add y our border. The Popcorns in this
border are created over 2 rounds. In Round 2, you will make a series of 5-dc groups. In Round 3, you will turn
these 5-dc groups into Popcorns by using front post stitches.

Border Round 1 (MC1)

When adding the first round of the border, the ch-2 corners of each square (along the edges of the blanket) will
count as a stitch and should be worked into. Only the four ch-2 spaces in the corners of the blanket will be
referred to as a ch-2 space.

Join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the ch-2 corner space at the start of any long side. (Dc, ch
2, 2 dc) in the same ch-2 space. This is your first corner made.

*Hdc in each st, remembering that the ch-2 spaces along the edge count as stitches and should be worked into. (2
dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 corner space.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the
last repeat. Join to the first dc with a sl st. Fasten off and work away your ends.

Stitch Counts:

Long Sides: 370 hdcs and 4 dcs

Short Sides: 277 hdcs and 4 dcs
Border Round 2 (MC2)
Join your yarn by making a standing double crochet in the ch-2 corner space at the start of any long side. (Dc, ch
2, 2 dc) in the same ch-2 space. This is your first corner made.

*(Ch 2, skip the next 2 sts, and make 5 dcs in the next st ) until you have 2 sts left. Ch 2 and skip the last 2
sts. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-2 corner space.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner
on the last repeat. Join to the first dc with a sl st. Fasten off and work away your ends.

Stitch Counts:

Long Sides: 124 5-dc groups and 125 ch-2 spaces (not including corner spaces)
Short Sides: 93 5-dc groups and 94 ch-2 spaces (not including corner spaces)

Border Round 3 (MC1)

To make a FPhdc around a 5-dc group, yarn over and insert your hook from front to back into the ch -2 space
before the 5-dc group. Insert your hook from back to front into the next ch-2 space so that the 5 dcs lie on top of
your hook. Complete your dc as normal, making sure that your working yarn is above the 5 dcs, not in front of
them. This will pull the 5 dcs together and form a neat Popcorn. If you want more help, have a look at my
tutorial for the Really Lazy Popcorn.

Join your yarn by making a standing half-double crochet in the ch-2 corner space at the start of any long
side. (Hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the same ch-2 space. This is your first corner made.

*Hdc in the first 2 sts and make 2 hdcs in the first ch -2 space. (Make a FPhdc around the next 5-dc group, make
2 hdcs in the next ch-2 space) until you have worked into every ch-2 space. Hdc in the last 2 sts. (2 hdc, ch 2, 2
hdc) in the corner ch-2 space.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times, omitting the last corner on the last repeat. Join
to the first hdc with a sl st. Fasten off and work away your ends.

Stitch Counts:

Long Sides: 382 hdcs

Short Sides: 289 hdcs
And that is Charlottes Dream all done :)
Thank you for choosing to make this blanket. If you would like to share photos of your finished project, please
use hashtag #charlottesdreamcrochetblanket so that Jenny and I can see it!