Specifications

Wingspan: 29 in.
Wing Area: 156 in.
Wing loading: 14-15 oz./sq. ft.
Weight: 15.5 oz.
Motor: 6V Speed 400
Battery: 7 600AE cells
Radio: 2-3 channels

The racing Mustangs provided the inspiration for the Python. They are the tops in
the world of air racing, and I thought that they would make an excellent speed 400
sized ship. As it turned out I was correct, as this little ship will give 110%! It
flies great, handles smoothly, and can do just about all maneuvers you want it to.
I encourage all of you to set aside 3 or 4 nights, and come to the field with this
little bird. I promise you it wont let you down!

Let's build

The construction is relatively straight forward. As with any electric project,

think and build light. Use contest grade balsa throughout for best performance.
Use stiff wood for the leading edge. I used CyA for the entire airframe.
Remember, there's no substitute for a good, tight fit.

The prototype weighed 15.5 oz., ready to fly. I used a two channel, AM, Hitec
radio with an auto cutoff esc and two micro servos.

Building the Fuselage

Begin by cutting the fuselage doublers from 1/16 balsa and gluing them to the fuse
sides. Be sure to make a left and a right side. Laminate a cross grained F3 and
glue to the right fuselage side at 90 degrees. Using 1/8 sq. balsa, glue in the
vertical braces at the leading edge .Cut two pieces of 1/8 sq. 1 3/8 long and glue
to the right fuselage side where shown on the plan. Line up and glue the left side
to F3 and the 1/8 cross pieces.

Cut a scrap of 1/16 balsa 13/16 square, lay it under the tail with the fuse pinned
on its side, and glue the tail together. F4 and the turtle deck stringer go in
next. Now move to the nose, and cut F1 from 1/16 ply. Mount the motor to it and
glue to the fuselage sides, noting the thrust direction. Add the triangle stock
above and below the motor, using an old motor can wrapped with sandpaper to get a
good fit.

Cut and glue the upper and lower front blocks in place, sheet the bottom rear
fuselage, and add the hatch mount.

Now the turtle deck. Its not really as
only of one side of the deck with water
the center of the stringer on the deck,
over and glue it down. It WILL bend OK
same for the other side.
hard as you might think. Spray the outside
until its soaked. Bend one side over, mark
and cut to fit. Carefully bend the side
if you choose the wood wisely. Do the
Assemble the hatch mount using F2, 1/32 ply, 1/16 balsa, and 3/8 light block. Mount
the hatch, carve and sand to shape. At this time, glue the fin to the stab, then
the stab to the fuselage. Finish the fuselage construction by adding the fin
fairing and final sanding.

The Wing

The wing is a hollow type. The only spar is the leading edge, so be sure to pick
straight, strong wood. Two sheets of 1/16 x 6 x 36 will be fine to make the wing.
(note: 1/20 might also work, and save a bit of weight, but this hasnt been tested
yet)

Begin by cutting the bottom skins to the plan shape. Cut ribs R3, R4, and R5 to the
correct length at the ailerons. Make the two aileron torque tubes from aluminum
tubing and 1/16 music wire. Draw the ailerons on the lower skins, making sure they
are 11/16 wide (this is important in the performance of the airplane). Glue ribs R3
R7 on, followed by the torque tubes, and the 1/8 aileron faces.

Un-pin the wing, elevate each tip 1", glue in the 1/8 center doubler, and laminate
and install R1s. Now add R2s.

Remove the wing from the plan and sand the leading edge to shape. Do not make it
too sharp. Mark the aileron position with pinholes and cutout the top skins
slightly oversized to allow for the curvature. Dont forget that the left wing
panel has the servo cutout, and room for the torque rods to come through. Assemble
the washout guide from 1/8 scrap as shown on plans. Place it under the left wing,
and with the panel pinned down, glue on the upper skin using medium or slow CyA.

Reverse the procedure for the right side, trim the edges down smooth , and install
the wing tips. Cut out the ailerons, and wrap the center line with glass or nylon
tape.

Final Assembly

By now its starting to look like a P-51!

Turn the Fuselage upside down and level the stab. Place the wing in the saddle and
check to see if it's level. If it isnt, draw sand the wing saddle to get the
proper alignment. The wing /stab incidence must be 0-0. When a satisfactory fit is
achieved, glue the wing on using medium CyA. Add the lower scoop and it's done.

Radio and Equipment Installation

Put a few drops of thin CyA in the area of the radio installation, and smear it
around to get a smooth surface for the mounting tape to hold onto. I mount all my
radio equipment with 3M mirror tape. This stuff will not let go! The component
placement on the plans will get you in the ball park, but some shifting of the 7
cell pack may be needed to get the CG right. Set the radio up to get about 3/16"
throw in the surfaces. Dont forget to wire in a 10 amp fuse between the motor and
the esc. I also like to wire in a 3/32 phone jack to charge from. Just be sure
there's no current going to the esc when you have the charger plugged in.

Covering

I ve used Monokote for years, and on the prototype I used Metallic Blue with
silver trim. Hinges are also made from Monokote. The real beauty of these ships
is that you can cover two with one roll!

The Python gets small really fast, so it helps to have some sort of graphics on one
wing panel to distinguish it in the air. Thats the reason for the gaudy flag on
mine. It has saved me more than once!

After all covering is done, cut the canopy from a Sig unit, and scuff the bottom
1/8" on the inside. Glue the canopy on using a small amount of CyA. Dont go hog
wild with the glue or the canopy will fog badly; just use a few drops.

Mount the prop and the spinner assembly. My experience has shown the APC 4.75 x
4.75 to work the best. It will fly on a 6/3 folder, but performance will definitely
suffer a great deal. Whatever you do use, BALANCE THE PROP.

Flying

By now you probably cant wait! She really makes a neat looking little ship,
doesnt she? Well, this is the moment, so charge up the pack and get ready.

You might want to start out with a bit of UP trim to be safe. Make sure that left
is left, and up is up. Sounds stupid, but Ive seen airplanes reduced to instant
kits because of control reversal, especially if two planes share a TX.

Spool up the motor and give it a toss into the wind , keeping the nose slightly
raised and the wings level. If you built straight it shouldnt need more than a
few clicks of trim.

Conclusion

Well, I hope you have as much fun with your Python as I have with mine. Its been
flying for over a year now and has yet to see any damage. It still flies as great
today as the first day I tossed it in the air.

I can picture a bunch of these little critters buzzing around the pylons like a
little Reno Race! Dont let the racy looks fool you, it flies like a little
pattern ship. At the '99 Mid America meet here in Michigan, many of the people I
spoke to thought it was powered by a brushless motor because it flew so well! I
had to convince them it was a Graupner speed 400.

So far, I have found the following combination works best for me: A speed 400 6V
motor, high speed spinner, 4.75 x 4.75 APC prop, and 7 600AE cells. But feel free
to try something different, and let me know how it works!