Melty An ever-lasting love affair with the French capital Ireland Wet ier ot BURT ET en Fy Fe eee a ee ee ea Aa LUT ON Rie Tothe core ofits wild & beating heart Spey aad rae 4jeep.co.uk ~ »>@:. @ Model shown Jeep Renegade 1.4 MultiAir I 140 hp Limited 4x2 Manual with optional two-tone alloy wheels and Trailhawk versions and the 7” TFT is standard on all Limited, Opening Edition & Trailhawk versions. OFFICIAL FUEL 32.1 (8.8) - 51.4 (6.5), COMBINED 40.9 (6.9) - 61.4 (4.6), CO, EMISSIONS: 160 - 120 G/KM. Fuel consumption and representative of real-life driving conditions. Factors such as driving style, weather and road conditions may alsoBE RENEGADE THE ALL-NEW JEEP RENEGADE. Life’s a journey. So why follow anyone else's path? Bi ey Cre aicn ene eee Ce aie) Pee ee ee ee ete ee eee ee est kee cS Lee lee Neer ar ene eure driver display and clas d oniselected versions* And with prices starti SOL aur a lt optional bi-colour paint at £23,545 OTR. “The 9-Speed automatic transmission is standard on selected Limited & CONSUMPTION FIGURES FOR JEEP RENEGADE RANGE MPG (L/100KM): EXTRA URBAN 48.7 (5.8) - 70.6 (4.0), URBAN CO, figures are obtained for comparative purposes in accordance with EC directives/regulations and may not be have a significant effect on fuel consumption. 1, rmswes tenn FCs ont tSBELMOND RIO DE JANEIRO RIO'S ICONIC OCEANSIDE HOTEL, VINTAGE GLAMOUR WITH A Sa Sen aeBELMOND DISCOVER ONE OF THE NEW 7 WONDERS OF NATURE-STAYING AT THE ONLY HOTEL WITHIN IGUASSU NATIONAL PARK Ti ima’ ot 4 |DELFIN eee LED Enjoy a unique Expedition Cruise in the Peruvian Rainforest with DELFIN AMAZON CRUISES Spacious suites, gourmet dining, personalized service, bird wate king, stand up paddle boarding, canopy walking, night safaris, wildlife spotting, village visits, swimming near dolphin All this and more in one of the last nature havens in the world, the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve. Delfin Amazon Cruises will take you on a life changing journey aboard the Delfin I or Delfin II. info@DelfinAmazonCruises.com www. DelfinAmazonCruises.comfacebook.com/delfinamazoncruises ol2 HOLIDAY PLACE Let's create your holiday Fare ae Peron on ire lk yaw ta <= ABTA Creme W tierce PO POE ET POs The price quoted is per person based on 2 adults sharing a room,17 INBOX ‘Your leters, emails and tweets 11S YOURPICTURES Our readers’ most colourful snaps ‘21 SMART TRAVELLER ‘Trends, tips, mews and views 4155 COMPETITION Win a rail trip for twoacross India 47 BLOG: TENERIFE ‘Tackling Malpais de Giiimar 419) AUTHOR SERIES Peter Hudson ‘51 COLUMN Silence, please 52 COLUMN Searching, for Yellowstone ben (555 UKE ALOCAL: ADELAIDE Restaurants, bars and festivals in this cosmopolitan crossroads Contents NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER APRIL 2015 ISSUE 34 (GO EAT-EDINBURGH Steak pes, haggis and whiskey (GA. SLEEP: SINGAPORE Best beds guide 1564 CITY UFE:PARIS A love letter to the French capital 142 CITYLIFE: FLORENCE Renaissance revelries 1485 LONG WEEKEND: WEST IRELAND Driving the Wild Atlantic Way 6 FEATURE: WALKING Following the unspoh walking in the great 163 FEATURE: MOBILE TECHNOLOGY ‘Thesmartphone takeover 1GS TRAVELTALK The experts travel manual ‘178 THROWBACK ‘22 WRITE FOR NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER! Kick off your eareer with a writing commission to the Aretie cry v2 SS On the cover Mees Arch, Canyonlands National Park, Utah, Image: AWL Images Pd Competition ASS COMPETITION: INDIA ‘Wina rail trip fortwo to northeast India and Darjeeling, Destinatior ‘7A. COVER STORY: AMERICAN ADVENTURE From cliffeamping and wild horse riding to paddling through swamps and storm chasing, the USA is home to rugged and raw adventures 90 STLUCIA Go beyond the voleanie beaches to the islands verdant rainforest interior, with its mountainous ‘canopy of green 102 OMAN Discover the Arabian Sultanate’ soaring dunes, traditional dhows, sticky dates and cardamom coffee 14 DISTANTISLANDS ‘The remote island hideaways of St Helena, the Faroe Islands and the wildlife-rieh Falklands 124 INPICTURES: MONTENEGRO A tale of two seaside towns: {rom Kotor classic charm to the boisterous Budva Riviera sgeotrvellerco.nk | National GeogrephieTrweller 9Contributors el ‘AARON MILLER DONALD STRACHAN Head out on an American Explore Florence on p:142 with the adventure with the 2014 British travel technology journalist who's Guild of Travel Writers’ Travel penned Frommer's EasyGuide to Writer ofthe Year, on p74. Rome, Florence, and Venice 2014 See ” ath MARK ROWE, NICK BOULOS Mark writes on walking, the great‘ Theaward-winning writer has done ‘outdoors and environmental ises. ital: from camping in the Arete to Read his feature on therules of eyeing around Delhi, Hear about wilderness walking, on p56. his adventures in Oman, on p.102. | ‘3 EMMA THOMSON Emma, a freelance travel writer currently based in Belgium, explores the French capital, ‘ MAX ANDERSON Discover Adelaide on p.55 with the award-winning travel writer and author — a former depaty travel editor ofthe Sunday Times, at bra Katee Dept Ete eve abate rs Seon Capos CesPoeoh lta testa oen se Dalton Sib Stators Gra rane Ci, a es Grupa sn Seabee arntiron Sit Decree Neth Pedretenarcerse tor Pte age eG) ote astro, Spat abe Wo Special Project Constant ae eo att Nat etadena Gene Ter sr} ‘atonal Copan re Bsns Dope ean De tins oa AP seess Development Tan: vies Ne Sane tataadna Seppe hve, Coen) (Gilet: ty oes Hinge Bet ‘tsa obs) (ease Fra teda ores rl iager a ‘cos Mage oe ‘rt or ini net on) Binge ns Cee 5-0 QGmedia eat Ter le yA Uda ie, Ut tS 5) Megha ae oN. 0072005 tried Sif 2075003007830 utcetet meas he ‘Sten tapraton oy xs Segre Meare Ptr Veen locate Frew oman ‘este nage Up etree Dat Cie) Paani {rather a) Tenn rate te eters sinh Deatn matepee mento sn Semor Eta o. tn ee Satori die Yt Bry Ss Ast tro Snmey——Oportne Toe ge ‘atte rie Demy Aine Son eee er ree Wve sete Deceit ka a) Senor Petal natePtetatr = Groin st Deena et isin Shree. ams tanem. omamee ‘as edDamae Sta, itive trio enet Sesion net ee escent ‘ner try eee ten ‘orn Pe Sey, FrotuctenDretacsieiel gene ales Hoge Smetetnne NTEATOMAL PRLSHNG Ast WBE ar x Pie ntti ‘Lenina teachin thera Bogtater seis ae Aavatvtairiiy fests lige Cer ¢205 ahd pai Sty Ape NbalGopg hare so Prlteti BR Orso Seater ha io fywww.aqaba.jo rol Ye] ES UTR Cea ia bid 4 mt a :% Sets ir Ue ROT Mao ie Rene one say aon rom See ec TLT apm ry) Ga through rock DRL ROMP UN eric sR Caer eat cuca Mec on Cd ‘ a Tents ee eermetr Rc i, = == Par eay Baca Rc the cliffs to Petra. i Hiking inWadi Rum Walk through the spectacular desert landscapes of Wadi Rum and enjoy the wilderness of red sand dunes and rock formations. Explore the unique flora and Fiona of the Arabian Desert. Meet with the Bedouins and learn about their traditions and survival methods.From the editor THE UNITED STATES OF ADVENTURE The USA isa destination with an unwieldy amount of highlights. So many, in fact, that youre unlikely to : ever get close to seeing half of them. Which partly explains why only around a third of Americans have a passport — why leave when there's so much choice, variation and diversity on offer? (That, and the limited number of paid holiday days, but that’s another story... Its easy to be drawn to its cities, coastline, national parks, monuments, theme parks, vineyards and wildlife. But America’s real draw — its unique proposition — is its great outdoors. Whether its getting up close to the free-roaming mustangs of the Wild West and the wolves of Yellowstone National Park, or going backcountry s! canyoning in Utah, mountain biking in Nevada and cliff camping in Colorado, the options are seemingly endless. And increasingly unusual — storm chasing, anyone? We've rounded up some of the country’s most exhilarating, exciting and, in some cases, petrifying adventurous experiences, which should provide you with a little inspiration for that next trip. Also with this issue you'll find the winners and runners- up in our Photography Competition 2015 Guide; incredible, inspiring images that have already gained a global audience in online press coverage. And if that’s motivated you to dust off your passport, dont forget our Travel Writing Competition 2015 is still ‘open — you could win a commission to write for National Geographic Traveller (UK) on a trip to the Arctic with Quark Expeditions. ing in Vermont, Pat Riddell, Editor @NGTUK_Editor 12 National Gographie Traveller | Apil2015 CO0G@9089 ‘ind us online FACEBOOK facebook com /natgectravller ‘TWITTER: twittercom/natgotraveller FLICKR: ck com groupe natgeotrevller GOOGLE+ splust/natgrotracellerak PINTEREST pinterest.com/natgeotravller INSTAGRAM instagram.com/natgeotravellerPSR a Sc Me esa aA oa OesaganYU gall a ee 7 ya ee eeeADVENTURE er ee NE BUALALLNGO Gace) lee Rivers in the heart of the dense tropical jungle, surrounded by indigenous Maya Pe en te eee eesti eee ene ee a 7S YZ] bi Cee ee ocean el Patan The wide variety of beautiful and powerful rivers, stunning natural archeological sites and CaS a aes es rc fi ae a a ANT Wass WANA Was VAAN Was VAN WasThe INBOX Readlers, this is yourspace — a place to air your views. Let us know what you think about the magazine, give us your unique travel tips, or simply ask usa question. Get writing, typing, emailing or tweeting! STAR ) wivo your tancuace LETTER David Whitley’s article ‘Lost in Translation’ took me — GET IN TOUCH > back to when I was travelling in Cambodia over 10 years ago, I remember watching, as we sat forlunch, Post this eight-year-old Cambodian git outside one of the Geog/phi- Taveller temples at Angkor. She effortlessly switched from English Ut 310 Highsa! to German, to French and finally to Japanese to sell het local artifacts. She Stucios. 53 understood the benefits of conversing in more than one language. Highs d. Lond ‘This is something I've taken on board; | always make an effort to NWSITL learn a small amount ofthe language of the country I'm traveling to— Ent USA, and why this, Ive found, leads to better service and better prices when hagsling. c a ‘This happens despite the occasional exasperated look from the person Tm speaking with, who knows their English is far better than my poor Cert) pronunciation of their mother tongue. Not that this will stop me trying Ch aaa col to speak to people in their own language — afterall, thisis part ofthe fete eating ‘enjoyment of travel and new discovery. Inspiration for which I constantly eee find in your magazine. Philip Rae (via email) Cray Road trip up the Mississippi ‘ Seren Food forthought Whenin E Orleans — in a Mustang! Glen Mute'sarticle Making a mealot Romen. it’ mademelaugh but asosad, The loved your Crenty lunchtime ‘walking-eating’.as|refer feature onRome Pea rad tothese people, isa phenomenon —itreminded me of National Park and waking up to that'stakenovertheUK.It'swhen holiday !hadin the een eet eee eae you've just come back rom traveling summer, exploring CST andexperiencedthe trea ofeating many ofthe sights, while sitting that younotice it most. you deseribe in your article. Just Cee Firstly, you wish to make adiference, one extra piece af info for travellers Cn bearebel..butthenintrue British going there: you can break up your in Alaska — the U! workaholic fashion, you end up sightseeing with a day on Rome's fees falinginto the trapof road, stairs, beach at Ostia Lido by getting the indigestion: as Glen nicely putit. Yet, Metro to Pyramide (Line B) thena Itty to break ree frommy desk and local 30-minute train ~all for under owoliwotiesforunchateest GIO(E2SO)on the rovacard Pesan one ners eon Senmiter Morals va emal) ‘gel Cox mal). jot ill itn Mt | WIN! Made n Bett out of wad cotton fo | The nextissue's star ‘Dundee, the Boston Weekender Bag, from 7, eter einen nton Baan Bri seal ore shore. Y ‘Secieer nay, Razer Ger abe codebase won br tats versaliyand the ater ends wnlp. for extra space. brilliantlybritish.com ie WILLE WML) satgetrallercoitk | National Goographie Traveller 17Your pictures YELLOW This issue, the theme is ‘Yellow’ and the winning entry i from Naf Selmani, Capturing two colourful charaeterson the strets of London, it immediately caught our attention 18 National Goographie Traveller | ApOL FIELD OF DREAMS st Lothian where are ablaze with golden ring summer. Edinburgh N YELLOW "The banks ofthe Ganges in Varanasi ays full ofife, and sadbus searching for enlightenment. Pavel Krupinski, London 03 HEAD: A stunning juveni rt of the Engl lconty in Bedfordshire. Anthony Sims, Edlesborough O4 STREET STYLE ‘An elderly couple in the streets of London, on a sunny day as bright as the pulsating colour of the clothing. Naf Selmani,OT TOM aw ete ROOLT T: +94 112 308 408 F : +94 112 433 755 Soe ceed aaa HUT RTE heaven a place on earth... BBs etc ne peutic! BS rience tnt ey ey + Heritance Tea Factory + Heritance Negombo (opening soon)SNAPSHOT, Go.NOW THE BIG PICTURE FOOD TOP FIVE INTHE CITY DON'T Miss. HOTELS UNDER £100 INSIDE TRACK INSTYLE Gago eedsem ‘TRAVEL WRITING COMPETITION 2015 So you want to write for National Geographic Traveller? Fancy yourself as a travel writer? Enter our annual travel writing competition for a chance to appear in National Geographic Traveller (UK) and win an amazing nine-day Arctic expedition to SpitsbergenIfyou want to transform your love of writing into a career and see your work published in one of the UK's most sucessful travel magazines, our 2015 travel writing competition could be _your fortuitous foot in the door. Simply enter 400 attention-grabbing words on natgeotravelier.co.uk/eompettions, about an inspirational travel experience. Keep it focused, eapture the essence of a destination and ensure it has National Geographic Travelers defining features: immersive travel and authentic storytelling Deadline: 30 April 2015. natgeotravellerco.uk/competitions THEPRIZE ‘The winner will se their piece published i on natgeotraveller-co.ak Plus they'll enjoy nine-day Arctic expedition to Spitsbergen, courtesy of Quark Expeditions, worth £7,000! ‘SPECIAL PROMOTION ‘The winner will embark on a voyage aboard Quark. Expeditions’ iee-strengthened ship and travel to the Aretic with the best expedition team in the polar regions. ‘This exciting trip travels around the incredible island of Spitsbergen, offering breathtaking landscapes — from vertiginous fords to polar desert, glaciers to sheet ice. Bach day brings a new highlight in a land where there ‘are more polar bears than people. This i the Aretic of Viking ore and legend — a world of ey fords, fiery voleanoes and glittering, ice-bound seas. Here you'll ‘encounter the majesti polar bear, the colossal walrus, seabirds in their towering cliffside nests, and wildflower- dotted tundra, Experiencing the beauty ofthe Arctic is something that ‘any budding travel writer must have on their bucket list. ‘quarkexpeditions.com/gbCAN Mug 14 0700 ye TIT - Kid. @ DeASsAnLonGe run by the community! www.sanilodge.com cece el8 § 3 DON'T miss Berlin, ground ZERO In the aftermath of the Second World War, ‘many things in Germany — ineluding art were reassessed. At the forefront ofthis redefinition movement was the ZERO group, founded by sculptor Heinz Mack and painter Otto Piene. ‘The biggest art movement of the post-war decades, ZERO attracted a network of international artists who shared the group's aim to transform the diseipline, among them such luminaries as Jean Tinguely, Yves Klein and Piero Manzoni, bringing together such divergent movements as no alisme, arte povera, minimalism, op art and kinetic art. Pegged as the most comprehensive ZERO exhibition since its foundation in the 1950s, a new show at Berlin's Martin-Gropius-Bau fine CHECK LIST arts museum will feature almost 200 works by #0 big name and lesser known artists, including 11 from Germany, as part of an ‘on-going project with New York's Guggenheim Museum, the Stedelik Museum in Amsterdam and the ZERO foundation in Diisseldort TThe show kicked off on 21 March (to 8 June) with an associated exhibition, Dynamo, held in venues across the city. Taking a synaesthetic approach to art and culture, Dynamo looks set tobe an interactive programme combining ‘music, film, dance and poetry that builds a bridge between the post-war avant garde and the arts today. museumsdienst-berlin.de ‘SUMMER IS COMING! GET YOURSELF INTO GEAR WITH THESE SMART CYCLING GADGETS FAB activity Gropeshandlebar tracker cover RRP: £79.99 RRP: £42.00 fitit.com onusual com stots UN U-Grip Bordo lock RRP: £39.99 velotive.com SMART TRAVELLER TECH ON YOUR TRAVELS Theaverage British holidaymaker spends ho, NX immersediin technology duringa trip, with media |° being the most common gadgetrrelated activity while travelling (55%) followed by intemet browsing (27%) i and texting/messaging (16%) sunshine.couk Hammerhead OPS RP: £80 hammerhead.io ional Geographic Traveller 27SMART TRAVELLER TOP ELEVATOR RIDES O1 GATEWAY ARCH USA Take a deep breath before stepping into one ofthe white pods zipping up and down the USA tallest monument — the glass {doors reveal the mechanical ingenuity ofthis 630ft icon, and the Mississippi, snaking through St Louis far below. Designed by Eero Saarinen, the Arch commemorates Thomas Jefferson and St Louis role in the westward expansion ofthe US. 02 HERON TOWER UK Shoot up this skyscraper, the tallest building in the City of London — at an ear-popping seven metres per second — for staggering views of this financial heartland. For added kudos, mingle with the modish set in its revered restaurants, Duck & ‘Waflle and Sushisamba. 03 BAILONG ELEVATOR China Inducing vertigo even in the fearless, the 1,070f¢ Bailong, Blevator— the highest and heaviest outdoor elevator in the world — scales a cliff, leaving you to swoon over the spectacular sandstone karst pillars of the UNESCO-listed Walingywan Scenic and Historie Interest Area, O4 WESTIN ST, FRANCIS USA You dont have to stay in this swish San Francisco hotel to 1 for reception, wer Elevators reap the rewards, All you have to dois then follow the signs towards the glass taking sneaky shoestring travellers 32 storeys up at 305 metres a minute, with stupendous views of Union Square unfolding below 0% HAMMETSCHWAND LIFT Switzerland Wide elles have been riding this ,070f Europe's highest public external lift — since it first opened its doorsin 1905 at the Biirgenstock Resort. Reopening this spring after renovations, thill-seckers start thei ascent inside the mountain before emerging for spectacular views of the Alps and Lake Lucerne's blue water 28 National Geographic Traveller | April 2015&7s = fq in aa Q ES fy g FS = SiINSLDE TRACK JOURNEYS A beach tour of Burma While an increasing number of travellers are bolting to Burma (Myanmar, keen to see its cultural riches, long shrouded by decades of de-facto border closures, its beaches remain something ofa secret. Anew tour, from Kyaiktiyo rs the chance toexplore Burmas lush, palm-fringed Indian Ocean coastline AtNgwesaung — a hamlet pronounced mile white ‘neway-song’ sand beach and warm, tropical blu Ties a pristine ni waters, Visit small fishing villages and local markets, explore the backcountry by bike and putt out toa string of oflshore islands by boat. But, ofcourse, Burma's cultural highlights canit be ignored. So pull on those fisherman's trousers, shake the sand from your hair and take in such stellar sites asthe precarious Golden Rock of Kyaiktyo, said to be secured to its resting place above a mountain precipice by a single of Buddha's hairs. The monasteries of Mandalay, the temples of Bagan and marsh-backed stilt villages of Inle Lake are also en route, as is astop-off at a pioneerin nt sanctuary The week-long tour costs £875 per person, including B&B, salad a guide International fligh port, extra, intrepidtravelcom Book it: Check into Cape Town's Belmond Mount Nelson jotel bet aclose. Tied in w 16 sculptures by c highlights include Frank atong emporary South Af an Reens @ its Summer of Sculpture exhibition comes to ith the Everard Rea Gallery, it features ican artists; i's The Whistling Tourist in-cheek portrayal of a tourist. belmond.com ratgrotrvellercoak | National Geographic Traveller 81SMART TRAVELLER Go now GALLIPOLI, TURKEY This month, it's 100 years since the beginning of the notorious First World War WATCH ‘The Water Diviner Gallipoli campaign — thrusting this Turkish city into the tourist spotlight STAY Hotel des Etrangers Bed down in this boutique hotel in the pretty port town of Canakkale gateway to the battlefield, with private balconies offering stunning views across the Dardanelles, free wi ‘and doubles from £50. hoteldesetrangers, com.tr TOUR Takearoad trip Gallipoli remains surprisingly unspoit ‘thanks to conservation orders onall developments Paceits pathways as wellasthe Anzac sector and Cape Helles over ive days. Tour from £2,000. cexclusiveescapes. couk RussellCrowe's directorial debut has already drawn criticism from Allied, Anzac and Ottoman soldiers. sets itself upas a rmyth-busting look at the Gallipoli campaign. seen through the eyes of an Australian ona mission tofindhis sons. Released 3 April Seen saS =i s Lay aed Moos gees Es toY ella Ao (4 AN 21K) -110) CG ilcipes | | °) ee CCMRCTAROMLE ae £82 National GoographieTraveller | Api 2015, WORKIT OUT Want to do something Cera with these volunteering trips. Words: Maria Pieri Roeser cd local woodland Serubby Porueece ied a eas eee Pee eerie) ones ee eae Toe ry ationaltrust.org.uk ee Roe nd ener serene ee era home to monkeys, bears, a corer Ty) Re as birds and reptiles. Typical reece tad ee err eee Ce ues Pe aac) eee days, excluding fights. eer es eee ae er Pen ene eed eae) out Rat See ey pennant omer yc ee eee Cee eee) mace: GTT TONAL TRUST NAGEL AR HOTEESTRANGERS. COTEaaa ea ag ar ..Orkney and Shetland are closer than you think. ee in unique culture, unrivalled wildlife and fascinating ancient ruins, the istat are yours to discover. And with regular, comfortable crossings, their beauty and / wonder are just a sailing away. im Sept kee. oe One e-URU ee Lg FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN THIS PRI Ferries, where you'll be able to enjoy many comforts please enter your details online at on board before arriving at your destination feeling anaes ee te een enh lee inte ache G ‘ ‘This prize includes a retum ticket on any route for two including car and cabin. Start your journey Maat niu Ciatca atSEC cei) oer Ie ce —e y ca RM Cea Cement ce els ulate yg OCD UE Screen iC D et ue amg a) . Meander thtoUgh the vineyards of France, tasting wine in BordeaUx, treat yours RO uae eee eneeeea gin res yia Ue cepital, sample traditional Belgian fare with deliciouSimoules frites or snake Core Sea encase cena aN Get ace Creu a ate chute et from city centre to city centrealong the tracks of een ery Ce UCU a eae a eo a "centuries ago. Enjoy the journey, not just the destination! Call_020 3327 0860 Yel) ig-g or visit www.railbookers.comaces ery AuSTATASON FOOD Westfjords, Iceland Journey to this windswept peninsular, blessed with arich natural larder, and delve into its organic local food scene Words: Helen Warwick Heydalur By day, guests head into the valley on horseback WHALE BLUBBER ‘past black-sand beaches and lofty ling like threads of white sll y q bluffs By night, punters hunker down in this guesthouse’s restaurant to enjoy farm-to-fork dishes: thick slices of smoked trout Co ‘with a mustard skyr (low-fat yoghurt); tender 7 lamb fillet with a wild mushroom sauce; and lobster soup with homemade bread... All ate ‘guaranteed to warm the cockles. heydaluris ‘Tjérumisid, isafjérour ‘Swing by this timber-frame fixture beside the harbour and tuck into its faultless menu of fish dishes. Fresh and fantastic in variety theres cod cheeks with sweet chill, garlicky bouillabaisse, buttery langoustine with lemon, and monkfish ina rich mushroom sauce. T: 00 354 456 #419. Braedraborg Café Hungry hipsters head here from morning. til night — it serves the best coffee in town, according to locals, while wedges of sourdough bread with Parma ham, Parmesan and pesto are divine. The headquarters of Borea Adventures hiking, skiing and kayaking tours — its ‘heartwarming spot to dose up on soups, sandwiches and sweet pastries while etching up ‘on local gossip. boreaadventures.comyeafe Hisio Make a beeline for this eafe-barat nightfall. The food ticks ll the boxes the lamb and soups in particular, but it’ the late-night antics that aren’. tobe missed, when the whole bar croons along to Teelandie bands and DJs. 7: 00 854-456, From top Hiking: sestood dish: Toruhisio 30FAKIND UN Tad 1 Pore) (2) Cea boat ita Cry SN) Ama aan 3 Faire i utgrtrvcllerco.k | National Geographic Traveller 95eee tae a eee West(wed BEAUTIFUL BOUTIQUE HOTEL DESIGN INSPIRED BY MUSIC iat cea Color oI a or ‘AN EASY WALK TO MOST OF THE CITY'S TOP ATTRACTIONS STUNNING YEAR-ROUND ROOF GARDEN WITH 360° VIEWS elo Ma RS eRe aaerer Deo ne Porte ater eerrrereer amare ty Pent eitcen te niy ete reer tareet Pee Ce EC eed E-MAIL; STAY@ARIAHOTELBUDAPEST.COM CONC N RR ae eee asAN THE Bruges suusreanon Ty Rowncroarayons cok SMART TRAVELLER tucking into everything from boar to beers. Words: Helen Warwick Kurt’s Pan A tiny gem on Sint- Jakobsstraat, serving fine assics like pheasant terrine ingly fair ont wallet. Three courses wine, €60 (£: PATISSERIE SERVAAS VAN MULLEM Is impossible not to drool over the sweet ereations in this saloon-Iike patisserie, crafted to the vision cof pastry chef Servaas Van Mullem, I's great litle pit-stop fora morning coffee, or forthe full shebang, order a chocolate delice ~ glazed chocolate mousse ‘with a biscuit base — with a Belgian hot chocolate seroaaseanmullem.be 4). kurtspan. be DE VLAAMSCHE POT Den Gouden ‘This cosy candleit hideaway Harynck ‘with red chequered curtains and Helmed by chet bare brick walls consistently ‘wins praise for its hearty portions of traditional Flemish fare. Go with an empty stomach, and don't miss the wild boar stow and watfles with ice cream, devlaamschepot.be/en Viaamsch Philippe Serruys, this is arguably Bruges’ most revered restaurant, where dolled-up diners pore over finely crafted dishes on crisp white tablecloths. Piump for ‘ameal here and it raise the bar for the remainder of your stay with stand-out dishes. such as mackerel with smoked eet ‘goudenharynck.be The Chocolate Line For inventive recipes, makea beeline for this posh cocoa bean emporium. The Atlanta cola ‘ganache with hazelnut praline and popping candy) and Green Tokyo (bitter ‘ganache, marzipan, wasabi) are to die fr. thechocolateline.be DEHALVE MAAN BREWERY Booka guided tour ofthis T BRUGS BEERTJE family-run brewery before Pullup a stool a this rough-and-ready Quatfing a free glass inits pub and you'll easily lose a couple of hours adjoining pub, halvermaan be ‘working your way through its horde of visiflanders.couk beers; according to the barman, there’ ‘more than 00 on offer. Brugsbeertje.be ratgetrvllercak | National Geographic Teasller 97SMART TRAVELLER Rooms under £100 ZAGREB OLBED&BREAKFAST — O2 HOTEL PRESIDENT STUDIO KAIROS PANTOVCAK With its four chic-but-simple Perched on a leafy hill above rooms organised by theme (there's Britanski Square is this delightful ‘an old-fashioned typewriter in the mother-and-son ereation. Architect ‘Writer's Room, for example, and a Zoran Vizintin morphed the family gr home into. swish, seven-room thismeticutously e hotel, which mam Furnished with connect you with Zagrebs past, artand antiques. Reoms apart ‘which you can find just a 10-minute from the Cassie Room) are sleek ‘walk away'in the Old Town, and modern, with private terraces Doubles from £43, overlooking an orchard. Doubles studio-kairos.com fom £78. presdentsagreb.com 03 HOTEL. OLHOTEL 9 JAGERHORN ‘You don’t pick aroom type here, Theoldestof Zagreb current you picka colour, White silver «crop of hotels, with an ideal and gold are the available options Position — right in the middle allare deliciously bling-tastic ‘ofthe OldTown, near Ban Jelacie affairs, complete with enormous z Square. Rooms were renovated padded headboards, mirrored 3 in 20m but have retained a ls and colourful Etro toiletries 8 traditional feel — primrose walls in the marble bathrooms. The 7 and floral curtains — and breakfast location — a mil from the Old S isservedoverlooking the pretty Town — is slightly less glamorous, a courtyard, Doubles from £62. though. Doubles from £70, a hotel: jagerhorn.hr hoteladr 3 {38 National Geographie Traveller | Apil2015Choose Croatia Airlines \ for your travels! \ CN ue ot ee Lg to Zagreb all year around, Split and Rijeka in the Summer months, with excellent eee at eee ike ee ce ei from Gatwick to Split on Mondays and Fridays perfect for a weekend getaway, Cerio Ta Renate Nelle eK P20): lic lonto@croatiaairlines.hrSMART TRAVELLER INSTYLE Travel wallets Thomas Lyte travel wallet ed using calf leather, this tra Paperthinks travelenvelope brightly hued compl card and open pockets leave room o4 ‘Montblanc Meisterstiick passport holder ai 40 National Geographic Traveller | April 2015edge» Torr eee ela eytrtn 0.808.120.2333 ie cell dolay COTTE t so ulti ; ae aeBREATHTAKING LANDSCAPE UNIQUE WILDLIFE ENDLESS WHITE SAND BEACHES AN ISLAND OUT OF THIS WORLD MADAGASCAR, A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE WILD MADAGASCAR = www.wildmadagascar.com _info@wildmadagascar.comLER MAGAZINE | SUBSCRIBE TO NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER MAG” LIMITED CeOanartic a IME FFER! TRAVELLER © = 10 ISSUES FROM £25 Saving 37% versus buying your copy in the shop. Plus receive a free hooded sweatshirt ETO Petar yatta] Available in sizes: Small/Medium; Large/XLarge and XXLarge GREAT REASONS TO SUBSCRIBE * FREE home delivery * Exclusive reader offers from our travel * Great savings on the cover price partner @HOupAY PLACE holidayplace.co.uk * Never miss an issue * Enjoy free entry into our VIP club HOW TO SUBSCRIBE Visit: natgeotraveller.co.uk/subscribe quote code NGTAIS Call us on: +44 (0)1737 457039 quote code NGTAIS natgetrvellercoak | National Geographic Traveller 43Travel Insurance avant ALL pre-existing medical conditions considered, with many covered FREE Children & Grandchildren insured FREE™ AWARD WINNING customer service Up to £10,000 cancellation cover Up to £10 million medical cover Call our UK based experts free on or visit us at www.avanti.co.ukCOMPETITION MMMM Winaney intothe heartof India 2 a aba ational Geographic Traveller and NY cites rete offer you and a guest the opportunity towin one of G Adventures’ brand new rail rips ~ the two-week Northeast India & Darjecling by Rail ‘On this incredible escape, you and your guest Will travel off the beaten path and see India in a very different way — by train. You'l get up lose with authentic India, from experiencing a sunrise boat trip on the Ganges, to heading north by local tain and riding Darjeeling’ famous Toy train ‘There will he plenty of palaces and forts for you to se, and youl still ave all the social ‘lements of travelling with a group. Ada in local meals and a large helping of eulture and you'l discover this is the journey of a lifetime. G Adventures is all about giving back to the communities that its travellers visit, so youll also see a Planeterra Foundation project ~G Adventures’ non-profit organisation — in bustling Delhi, The New Delhi Streetkids project takes children off the streets and provides them with jobs as tour guid ‘This trip isone of 24 new rail trips by G Adventures. One of train travels greatest advantages is that it gives you the opportunity to really see the country you're travelling through. -opening rail trip across India for two! ‘This isyour chancetotake the train, give your senses aboost, anagive MMM MMM G Adventures’ rail trips follow some of the most iconic and scenic rail routes in the world, including eye-popping landscapes in the Alps, ‘the Himalayas and Siberia. xe information orto book, please call G Adventures on T: 0344 272 2040 or visit gadventures.co.uk iter Answer the question below by visiting natgeotravellr.co.uk/eompetitions: What are the iconic Darjeeling called? atgotrveller oak | SPECIAL PROMOTION MMMM a ‘Theprize Thewinner will receive two flights from the UK upto the value of £750 each, plus two places on the same guaranteed departure of G Adventures Northeast india & Darjeeling by Rail trip (AHOR) with a ‘minimum o four, ful-fare travellers already booked. @ adventures” the great aaverture people Thecarpetindaseson20 Art pm GT, Thewiner rust owe 8st ipa ‘naval FulTeCsaaibiest tatgstrovelercouompettns onal Geographic Traveller 45BEST OF THE BLOG Tenerife: Volcano walking ‘The National Geographic Traceller (UK) website iy hometoa weekly blog, Here’sa taster — taking usto the rocky coastal route of Malpaisde Giiimar WM MMM MMMM his is pumice, says our unfailingly energetic guide, Narya. I's I ‘so light you can pick up a big boulder and look lke the strongest, person alive” ‘She seems entirely at ease with her audience: a group of four young children and two adults. Smiling, she encourages the children to seavenge for pivees ofthe greyish-white stone that litter this voleanic landscape, We pint out the difference between lava and pumice, as they seek out bigger el and bigger pieces trying to find a boulder. erent ‘Were tackling one ofthe easier excursions suited to families, which will erat be part ofthe Tenerife Walking Festival 10-15 March), Targeting walkers from all over Europe, the festival pulls together arange of coastal, voleanie and green walks along its 990-plus miles of paths, and various activities The weather, however, is not playing bal. Quite frankly, its too hot; the hottest day for weeks, apparently, and we'e only a third ofthe way round the rocky, voleanie coastal route of Malpais de Giimar, with two six-year-olds| and two eight-year-olds in tow. Wei tailored this asa shorter walk — the ids Ethnographic Park. Great; but not forus, today: “There's still more than enough to keep us oce “This part ofthe island is only 10,000 years old” says Narya. The craggy black and briek-red lava contrasting against the emerald-blue sea ereates a vibrant background. ‘The green vegetation seems to fight its way up through the rocks, coating this young, fertile landscape with hardy plants, grapes, trees and moss. Log onto natgeotraveltercosuk/blogto read the full post MMMM MMMM MM Read the blog every Tuesday for a truly unique experience or a different side to a destination natgeotravellerco.uk/blog BLOG OTN eT Cee a ST ad cans Era tias Peerrecnet ener es ed pert] en reed ona CaN ns Ete cy peepee ete eos ay eee exe) CCATSIINHAINICH Crs pte reed nant? vee Ee ee] 25 yeas ago wast with ee puns fenced wih cones satgrotraelleco.k | National Geographic Traveller 47AUTHOR SERIES POO MUGS Mauritania Having criss-erossed the African continent for more than 0 years, the author reveals why hes compelled to return to Mauritania again and again UMMM oO past 27 years Ihave visited the county of Mauritania in West Africa 2 times. Why, Ihave to ask myself? In any conventional sense the place has very little to recommend it-Ttis a dump. Or at leas, the part T goto in the south is. Ws arubbish-strewn wasteland of sand, dust, dead trees and villages that are onthe verge of tence. Climate changeand bad polities have done their work, eating out any vestiges of viable traditional lie Roads, where they exist are atrocious Villages and towns lookas though they have been left behind inthe wake of some war. The country is mosty desert, sandwiched between Morocco andthe Spanish Sahara to the north and Senegal tothe south. frst visited it simply because no ‘one seemed to have heard ofthe place. It was a big blank on the map and this, forme, was enticing, T have always loved maps: looking at them and dreaming what was actually there. [decided to goto Mauritania and éllin that blank. (ae Forsix months, riss-erosed the country, by bush tax, camel and one memorably stubborn donkey. Tstayed with Bedouin, drinking milk warm rom the udders of their ‘cows, sharing couscous and ghee under the seraps of their tents, Tvisited ancient caravan towns stuck fr out inthe desert and holed up fora while ina cheap hotel in the capital tht doubled as a ‘brothel, led with the ftsam and Jetsam ofa precarious life ‘Then one day I decided to travel tothe south. This was where the Arabi culture of the desert save way to the Banta tribes of sub-Saharan Africa, Tevwas here, onthe southern fringe ofthe Sara, that periodic sine made a sparse and brief form of agriculture Possible This was a place where customs and cultures tmerged, met and, not infrequently, clashed "Abush taxi ha just dropped me ofin the regional town of Kaedi and Twas standing therein the chaos ofthe taxi park wondering what to domnext, when a young man who bad been travelling in the same taxi as myself, asked if would ike to come to his vilage nearby. “OK, replied, and two further hours of dust and Aiscomfiture found me in the village of Kenia. This was the home of Saif my friend and colleague now for 27 years, ‘with whom I have set up a development group fr the locas. 1tis, of course, the people who have drawn me all these sears back to Mauritania Its the humans who inhabit this MMMM, vas, dusty space that make the country so special to me. From, the poorest livestock herders in the desert, to villagers eking ‘out an existence from their threadbare crops, tothe countless Moorish merchants lining every street with a glint in their ‘eyes, [have been treated always with utmost kindness and generosity by a people whose religion — Islam — in theireyes, impels them only to tolerance and hospitality. But it is Kenieba, my friend Sali’ village in the south, which primarily holds my affection, Its here I have travelled ‘every time I've returned, Here, I've made many friends. Here, my days pass tothe great clockwork arch of the sun, sitting on mats shaded from the fiercest of heats, becoming small and insignificant in the blackness of ‘each night under the towering array ofstars. The women dress in the most colourful of clothes; the men inelegant gowns, or ‘bobos ‘We make tea, chat and laugh, In tandem with the local people, Salif and Ihave striven to find agricultural solutions to the ever more frequent droughts, oF ‘organisational solutions to ‘communities now realising the need to work more closely with, each other. Itislike a game of chess: two steps forward, one back; ‘ovo forward, one back. For years, Iwas il each time 1 travelled out tothe village. Often before I even left the ugly, shanty-filled capital, Nouakchott, I would be feeling unwell, perhaps from the heat, perhaps from unfamiliar bacteria, The bush taxi ride to the village was 12 hours, negotiating as many ‘4s 20 military roadblocks. But they do say the best rewards ‘come from the most tol ‘The warmth and humanity the enfolding press of a ‘compassionate, cheerful people, were my rewards. And each trip T would end with a visit tothe beach outside Nouakchott, ‘where a thousand brightly painted fishing boats were pulled ‘upon the sand, and [sit watching the fishermen bring in their eatches asthe sun went down on another African day. MUM Peter Hudson s a writer, farmer and charity worker. There are ‘ew parts of the rican continent he has not seen from the back ofa bush taxi, donkey or bicycle. His fourth travel book, Under an African Sky: A Journey to the Frontine of Climate Change, tells the story ofthe village of Kenieba over 20 years. rnatgotrvllercoak | Natlonal Geographic Traveller 49Contact: Harz Mountains Tourist Board - Tel: +495321 34040 - iruusteanon: Landes COLUMN GLEN MUTEL The sound of s There are few things worse than a noisy bus, coach or train, Fight? hethe noisiest thingon Earth Ws Ms MM Md pigs car oft Just open the thing! It shoulda’. take you 10 minutes — itsa Crunchie, not a Rubik's Cube! Ifyou ask me, these people are the real menace to society, These packe rustling, key-tapping, nut-erunching, lip-smacking, heavy-breathing, finger-licking, audibly-dithering, incessant nose-blowing, loud- whispering buffoons, And they're everywhere — not just on public transport, but in offices and cinemas, in waiting rooms and at dinner tables — anywhere where it’s alittle ‘too quiet for comfort, up they'll pop with their rotten soundboard of sniffles and sighs! ‘Now I realise by now your sympathies probably aren't with me, but instead with tn not relly among person, eer iat sentence ll ie an anderstntement Bf the thot ny danger 14 happy sep til ipon the ween Ad oat tral weg eek Tepend yt euro concltstesr wishing no nota fy cllnges dead ny fry tot al aly wit tod tbaty gal invites Pa relag od sometines hii pont tt Others it fs se if he dark Inds ont ie wizard op These aan puta sever ms When usd cateh the bus to work, they were all those who have to contend with me on aregular basis. Fair enough. Perhaps I ought tolighten up abit. Afterall, whoever said publie transport should be peaceful? And maybe Intolerant gits like me ae just big a problem as those other sits with their phones. ‘But if that's true, whats to be one? Well, as is so often the case, I think the answer lies overseas. Whenever I contemplate the people whoid sit next to me, broadcasting their awful through the tinny speab their smartphones. Now I catch the train, they're more oft thrusting professionals, barking self-serving instructions down, their mobiles to the colleagues they'll be seeing barely Tm not sure who hate more — I just know it's hard to lose yourself in a Jeeves and senvirenmantsis they bring into foows all tha Nothingmakes my 7/ "So heres my proposal let’ all start making as igimiammatycometeunniumt ploodbollmore pushes nour ‘music or inane work chatter. Nothing and I thanhearing 77 makeour laughter raucous, our debates heated hearing someone sat behind me taking forever to someone sat ‘welll drown out the tinny smartphone anthems catabagoferign.Orthemufledchnkofbuttes, Dehindmetaking and the dreary workcalls — not tomention the Keysand pens as someone rummage through lop andthe Bloody Crunchies to. their handbag, Or the noise of someone trying to forevertoeata 77 please, lets dotsoon, Before il open chocolat wrapper and makinga sodding bagofcrisps someone. @.lentfutel ratgrotrucller cok | National Goographie Traveller 61COLUMN DAVID WHITLEY q Extremely hat n air of misery overwhelms the car. We've driven to the end ofthe Lamar Valley — supposedly the best place in Yellowstone National Park for wildlife-spotting and we still havent seen a bear. After ths latest fruitless detour, were faced with adisconsolate 90-minute drive in the dark back tothe hotel (Over the course ofa week in Wyoming, the search fora bear — any bear — has become increasingly desperate. We didn't see any on the first day in the Grand Teton National Park, so decided to go with the professionals on the second day. Surely a wildlife tour that goes out every ‘evening will know where the animals hang out? This turned out tobe true for moose. One had parked itself on an island in the middle of the Snake River and looked very happy; thank you very much. Huge herds of bison, roaming elk and watchful birds of prey also duly showed their faces. But despite staying out an hour later than planned, and kerb-erawling along the bu forest tracks where they were supposedly to be found, the bears had gone AWOL. ‘When squinting in near darkness, i's amazing how many things look like bears. Tree stumps ‘grow paws and faces, large rocks appear Positively ursine. Every few minutes, a cry of slorious certainty would go up, “There's one at 11 clock!” — only tobe replaced with embarrassed tobeashrub, apologies when Yogi turned o After the failure ofthe wildlife tour, it was time foranew strategy. If bears are most active at dawn, then we would be too. Coffee-sustained orning drives beeame standard practice. ‘This, it turns out, is an excellent strategy for spotting motorists parked by the roadside who'd tell you there was a bear — five minutes ago. The tragedy of wildlife tourism is that it ‘becomes ridiculously tunnel-visioned. On these pre-breakfast drives, we were seeing things that ‘would have gladdened the heart of any sane animal-lover. The bison gambolling across the road, sometimes with the ealf stopping to suckle its mother, were ineredible by any legitimate measure. So too the moose pausing by the river to munch on the willow trees. But after afew days, any animal that isnot a bear became little more than a crushing disappointment. ‘The same applies on other wildlife adventures, “The quiekest way to develop a hatred of dolphins is togoon.a whale-watching tour where the dolphins are a constant presence, and the desired hhumphacks prove elusive Similarly, onan African safari, ablasé towards zebras and giraffes develops onal Geographic Traveller | Apel 2015 Grin and bear it How hard can itbe to find a grizaly in Yellowstone Nati Squinting innear darkness, it's amazinghow tree stumps grow paws and faces,and largerocks appear positively ursine QV al Park? YL Ye ‘extraordinarily quickly: And once you've set your ‘mind on seeing lion, every rhino or elephant that appears becomes a time-wasting nuisance. In the Lamas Valley, heartbroken resignation sets in, We turn for home in stony dispirited silence. And then the thunder booms overhead. The drive back is going to be dangerous as well as depressing, as the rain starts falling in thick sheets. We can barely se two metres in front of us, letalone any wildlife. ‘We have to pull over to let the worst of it pass. “What's that?” comes the excited ery from the passenger seat. T gla Wsa "No. Not that — “A bison.” Haven't we seen enough bison? It dawns on us simultaneously. We turn to ‘each other and scream in harmony, “A bear! IT'S ABEARY” Suddenly unperturbed by the rain, I ‘wind down the window; letting the equivalent of approximately three oceans pour into the ea. Its all worth it for the world’s most hopelessly awful photograph ofa beat. thas remarkably transformative effect rock. Another bloody rock. rr there. the Journey back. Were reduced to simpleton grins ‘and endless child-like declarations of, “We saw ‘bear. We saw a bea:” It fairy dust-sprinkled delight. The lack of sleep and increasingly ‘outlandish diversions were finally worth it. The next morning, we hurry towards the airport. Twenty minutes into the drive, in what ‘ean only be calculated mockery, a black bear saunters out by the roadside to ous lef. Rulle one of wildlife tourism: Stop looking for something, and youll probably find it straight away. @MrDavidWhitley ‘uusteaTonr¢00v800,a . le Bao in Stuadbe Maalu Maalu Resort & Spa | Aliya Resort & Spa | Mountbatten Bungalow | Wild Trails Ayubowan! Welcome to Theme Resorts & Spas, Sri Lanka! Experience true Sri Lankan hospitality at our resorts built & managed Peaster eyes Al Themé Resorts are uniquely located in terrains of breathtaking vistas of exceptional beauty. We strongly believe in building structures that blend in with their surrounding in a sustainable yet distinctive style while Caen Rn ees oe eng?2014 BRITISH TRAVEL AWARDS THE PUBLIC-VOTED ‘OSCARS OF THE TRAVEL INDUSTRY’ California and the Golden West 2 16 days from £2,149 £1,899 PRLS u este rey ci ey ae ee MUNN a RO DE een ene ur en un en icy Senge rca Ceca lee eMC em Le coe} complimentary connecting flights to London* Sane Pe ener ‘Best Medium Holiday Company to the USA’ WHY WOULD YOU TRAVEL WITH ANYONE ELSE? San Diego - Scottsdale - Sedona - Oak Creek Canyon Grand Canyon - Flagstaff Williams - Las Vegas - Calica - Visalia - Yosemite National Park - San Francisco Monterey - 17 Mile Drive Carmel - Cambria - Santa Barbara - Anaheim For full details of the above tour or to request a brochure, visit titantravel.co.uk or call free on 0800 988 5904 quoting ref. NGO 5FC We are open today to take your booking: s Seren Mon to Fri 9am - 66m | Sat Jam ~ Spm. Ts ee eee eee r SEE THE WORLD ba) Pitta hagLIKE ALOCAL 4 np _ ial 5 : = By A ill} Botanic qjrrden > ae s= MNIPERC Onin a % ORTH TERRACE iS! Imm" GALLEY y =e se Vs => z te i. ag HOla1 eve — s 43 YO te ~|— ~~ 7 < z ° ed 4 > ee “SS wo a oe WETRES CENTRAL 10 20 30 40 «50 MARKET eee Tae = SSIS hops bem ee He > BPA rari hg, GOUGER STREET LIKE A LOCAL We, MMMM MMMM WM MMM Y I Adelaide Leave snobbery at the door and get stuck in to the South Australian capital, which has quietly been going about its business and transformed into something of a cosmopolitan crossroads — home toa restaurant, bar and festival scene that punches way aboveits weight ruusreanon ada simons WORDS: Max Anderson. PHOTOGRAPHS: Chris Van Hove atgrtraelleco.k | National Goographie Traveller 55LIKE ALOCAL sy ket se and-hap-a- NI Gs on die dead crtany ntby anyone ese The ys 12 millon esdntshave vas regard th cy ace wlifwer ered tyre pr pagel hn arr ns One wordyouvillbex: howeer is ifesle Ade ea lend hy, whose people act dave tor chet tafe sal and paring therondd beaches snd, wine producing hile Yo an fo rom se Arapof30) witht evng he mattopaltan ae Thecenvets easy to apy hake tots seable grid of year cid oan ing arly whitevistors hve oenoyed North Terrace ~thebolradef Victan-era huss that ofr nese Cutts Here pol nd the suing Alte Botanic Gaden {ss the rt Caley of South Auta 8 th Sothern astraian sco 47 he Mortook Wing 380 ofthe tt Library of South hasta afc tocnter Elsewhere, visitors also tick off the cheerful 10-year-old Central Market and disappear into eat streets'for languorous meals on ‘thronging pavements, But it in the adjacent Ri astonished to find the city is reinventing itself through a A83bn (£1.sbn) investment programme. At its heart isthe new Adelaide Oval, the hallowed cricket ground now cleverly transformed into a 52,000-capacity stadium and host to South Australias other great sporting passion, ‘Australian Rules football. The effect has been instant, energising the Central Business District (CBD) and kick-starting a bar-restaurant scene among hitherto ho-hum laneways. or Precinet where the return visitor isFOOD PICKS Mesa Langa 40 Gouger St iesaugacom Restaurant Ora: 285 fue Sresantanacam ‘Aldgate Prvidre Cate: our arr Rod, Ng. 006184339189, Peofolds agllstate Restaurant: Feri oa, mga com Ht Gace Restaurant: ide Or debidovalcomay Broad & Boe: Fest He roos1saz3.9s3, gone: 7st. agonscomau ‘dade Central Maret: og: Soot electra com ay Opposite, clockwise FP soit snotcrap buraer, GB bread B06: Smety Cheese Shop: The Austra ‘Above, trom lett a2: S Bread & Bone: Runcle Street pod glorious food inthe 1970s, most of South Australia’s dazzingly good seafood and prime meat was being exported ~ ignored by Anglo-Aussies who didnt see much beyond pie two veg. But Adelaide's migrant cooks from Asa and Southern Europe embraced the indigenous produce and beganthe {viving modern Australian fusion’ movement. or sheer aroundl-the-worl-n-80-plates varity stroll ‘along the lively Gouger and Rundle Streets. In Gouger, the Spanish tapas at Mesa Lunga is peerless. while Saturday mornings areal about Yum Cha (Chinese tea and im sum) inane ofthe many outlets on hs street, Rune is home toexcelent Restaurant Orana, which does contemporary bush tucker suchas mud crab and smoked Kangaroo tal Inthe Adelaide His, Aldgate Provdore & Cafe serves wel priced Mexican food with lar “There's no shortage a fine cining in Adelaide, At Penfolds Magi Estate Restaurant, oucan sample the peerless Pentolds Grange. mth city views tomatch wheat Hil of Grace Restaurant, famed Henschie Hil of Grace wine s served inside the Oval, overlooking the pitch that was ikea second home t legendary Aussie batsman Don Bracrnan Elsewhere inthe CBO, are neighbouring Leigh and Peel Streets, both of which have blossomed with eafes and wine bars inrecent years, Try Bread & Bone for burger exotica = its softshell erabpattesin abunhave clearly been sent by god. There's agreatitle bar inthe basement oo, wile Rigon's Bistro, on Leigh, isan laianfood institution Final, twolocal faves: Adelaide Central Maret, home tote tikes of the Smelly Cheese Shop, Mushroom Ma's Mushroom Shop, and Tldy-Kurgan ~for tip-top Polish clumplings; anda aptlof fish and chips, est eaten on Glenelg Beach as the sun sinks int the Gulf t Vincent. WY Y Y LIKE ALOCAL Festival spiri Adelaide is home to an almost unbelievably stuffed programme of art, music and sport from mid-February to March, Much of this is under the umbrella of the Adelaide Festival (27 Feb-15 Man) the largest annual arts showcase in the Southern Hemisphere —amagnet for top musical and theatre productions from around the world. Itincludes the Adelaide Fringe (13 Feb-15 Man) second in size only tots Edinburgh counterpart, and an open invitation to all ‘manner of comedic and varietal lunacy, Pus, it incorporates the Adelaide Writers Week (28 Feb-5 Mar), drawing top names from around the globe to share wit, wisdom and words in a genteel parkland setting, ‘This cultural jamboree creates a series of city ‘hubs, formed through the reinvention of ‘Vietoria Square, the Festival Centre grounds and Rundle Park (the later turned into the Garden of Unearthly Delights forthe Fringe). But that's not all, World music festival WOMADelaide is held in Botanic Park. between 6 and 9 March, Plus, the city changes ‘gear with the Clipsal 5000, an annual racing. car event (26 Feb-1 Mar). Despite much grumbling at having many of the main city streets given aver to howling Vas and 270,000 spectators, this petrolhead fiesta is 1 neat counterpoint to all the highbrow stuff happening in the Adelaide Festival. Finally, February/March sees some extra madness, courtesy ofthe ICC World Cup being hosted in Australia, with four of the cricket matches tobe played in Adelaide. > FESTIVAL PICKS. Adal estat etiett betta cman wets. wok dade Fringe Wowadetide: sdebiehigecomau remadelade coma ‘Gare of Unearthly Delights: delaras dade Weitere’ Wes: comeschetnaitp rnatgetrcller cok | National Geographie Traveller 57LIKE ALOCAL Party people Alcohd sa cornerstone of Adelaide ite ~ almost erally, since most street corners havea pub (ottengenteitiec) compete with restaurant and spity new bar seling boutique beers, Try local institution The Austal.on Rundle Street. and The Lion Hotelin leafy north Adelaide. “he bg news however isthe ize and ise ofthe smal bar since liquor ns wore relaxed in 2013 Adelaidehas seen dozens of inventive enterprises pop upon oddcorners. For atast, head to Peel tra Leigh Streets and imbibe int the wee hours wit the ke of Udabern (tapas ba), Clever Lite Tor and Casablabla(a cocktallounge that also teaches Latin dance). Other hot properties inckide Apothecary 1878, on nearby Hinsley Street abarfashionedfroma period pharmacy Bars and pubs have alvays been integral to Adelsice’s music seene (AC/OChave their rots here) Try the much-loved the Wheatsheat Hotel in Thebarton, or the Edinburgh Caste Hote ‘on Curr Steet, andthe Go. onPort Road. for terverging bands Four Doors lus One.on Hindley Streets abar where hipsters are transported backto the 1970s. The bars on this notorious old pleasure strip are amiof the good, the bad and the uly. Asa ule: reliably coo before midnight with the clubs tuning eral at weekends From left: Four Doors Plus One; The Tasting Room, East end Cellars WML MORE INFO ‘Books: Aki y Nery Galworthy FP: A825 85 (81352, (Usversiy ASW Pres) (scree: ie sre ac (2003) Dama taring Ce Oren ith pty they ew (yaa tg yer hak) MULILILLLL MMII [58 National Geographic Traveller | April 2015 (One of the big surprises is just how well ordinary South Australians know their wine ~as they probably should after 170 years of making the stuff, To see what all the fuss is about, head tothe far end of Rundle Street, where you'll find barrestaurant Street ADL, the ery lovely Botanic Bar, new wine bar Mother Vine (hosted bby some senior industry players) and the Tasting Room. Of course, youcan instead choose to go straight to the source: the Adelaide Hils region is home to 50-odd ‘cellar doors'(vineyard tasting rooms), including the Lane Vineyard, Shaw + ‘Smith and Hahndorf Hill Winery, the latter a knot ‘of commendable vintners in gorgeous country behind the German vilage of Hahndort. NIGHTLIFE PICKS: MIME MULL Theda 05RindeSt. fesse coma tteastalcamau ‘patnecry 18718 dey ThetionloltEWstoune St tepotecay7Bcomau Stilton | Street ADL:285RurdeSt, The Wheathet Hotel: saad com saGeone't Botan Br: Noth ardEast bots. av Tere btanedrcema ThetdnburghCastie otha Vie 225 son Hote 733Curet Aru. rote a dntueaslloelcom The ating Room, Est nd Fear Doors Pus One: Calars:25 Von vee, 155 net estes comay MILL a nie utara com ecards cate ine ‘dladtesthalcomaurens TOP 10 LOCAL TIPS ear eee ties eerie eee) ee the meester ee eee or een) an ae ee ra eon re lsh Aide neste, cen eer ety en oe re) cae eee! ae ees ee?5 f _— Come to the place where a morning walk is taken along a white sand beach, and coca olga tte CRa antic tan item aa ta teicher RN Fijians are such happy people, and it’s not hard to be just as happy as they are. eeu rere mT Rsr Ty www.fiji.travelEAT EAT WM MMM MM MMMM Wi. Edinburg If being one of Europe's most stunning — and visited — cities wasn't enough, Edinburgh has become one of its greatest gourmet destinations witha host of exciting chefs, restaurants and producers WORDS: Audrey Gillan ‘me, Many moons ago [lived in Edinburgh, yet each time I return, the beauty ofthis city still takes my breath away. Standing on the brow ofthe High Street, looking down past the tenements to the blue gap beyond that is the River Forth, or peering over Hanover Street, ‘across that same water to Fife — at almost every ‘turn there is some spectacular vista: the caste, the narrow wynds (lanes) of the Old Town, the Georgian glory ofthe New Town, Salisbury (Crags and Arthur’ Seat, the folly ofthe National Monument on Calton Hill In the years since I left, Auld Reekie"has placed herself firmly on the map as one of Europe's greatest gourmet destinations. It may ‘be wee in terms ofits landmass, but it has five Michelin-starred restaurants and a whole host ‘of exciting newcomers that have shaken down the firmament, harbingers ofa new era of gastronomic focus and excitement. ‘Take Timberyard, a relatively young pup, but ‘one that comes with a pedigree — this is the L happens every time and still it surprises Googe Traveller | April 2015 creation of the Radford family, the mother and father previously running Atrium and Blue, two of the city’s best restaurants, and now working with their sons and daughter. A farm-to-table ethos with an emphasis on sustainability has been passed on from Andrew Radford to his son Ben, a chef who embraces smoking, pickling and curing on ste. From the ‘Bites'section of the ‘menu we have salt-cured beef, scattered with crunchy buckwheat and rendered smoky by"burnt ‘ak oil: Raw scallop, thinly sliced into petals, is sweetly fresh and served with a cheek-clenching apple sorbet, and fat flakes of juicy crab are dotted with penny-sized dises of brioche, cubes of horseradish elly and a soft pear ‘cheese’. Until recentiy, Scotland's capital rarely lured ‘names up from London, but the lovingly bouffed-up Caledonian Hotel (now a Waldorf Astoria) has reeled in Michelin-starred Jeff and Chris Galvin as executive chefs, The broths hhave taken the grand dame of the Pampadour by her frail hand and re-introduced her to her beauty. The room Clockwise from top right: Gity centre views from Calton Hi: roast bone marrow a the Seran { Scale; [Melis artisan cheeseshop:TimberyardEAT Uy Yi Wy, FOUR PLACES FOR A TASTE OF EDINBURGH Craving the natural larder of his homeland chet Stuart Ralston gave up cooking at Sandy Lane in Barbados to return to Scotland and open Azle, a charming litte place where ingredients aretthe focus, Here there isno set menu or choice, just alist of locally sourced produce in season — the dishes themselves are a surprise, Cocktails are devised by wife Krystal, a ‘mixologist, who combines unusual lavoursin a refreshing manner. How much: Four courses, plus snacks, coffee and petit fours, rom £45 per person, ‘Timberyard Namedin honour ofits past use as a lumber warehouse this cavernous dining area s warmed by a woodburmer nfl fete, while tartan blankets adocn the backs of chars. The ktehen uses mostly Seotish suppliers, butthere’sa Nore influence the cooking. The menus in four sections‘, Smal, Large’ and’ Sweet There's John Dory burnished brown but ght cooked, scattered with dozens of brown shrimp and sea purslane, and a dessert of seabuckthorn ranita, whipped crowd (Scottish cream cheese), buttermikice cream anda sithery sheet of meringue How much: The courses, from £29 per person. timberyard.co ‘The Gardener's Cottage Walk through vegetable ana her’ garden that provides some ofthe ingredients used in the little restaurant housing three communal tables of l0andalovely ldrecord player softly issuing ‘great vibes. Run by chef duo Ed Murray and Dale Malley. tis place offers guests the option of a set menu of four courses plus coffee and petit fours for £35, or la carte froma daily changing menu. Think starters of ham hock brath with ‘mussels and mains of halibut, oats, rhubarb and Jerusalemartichoke. Tables hand-crafted from reclaimed teak from the Glasgow-built SS Olympia, are dressed with antique siverware and vintage crockery How much: Thvee courses, from £27 per person. thegardenerscottage.co ‘The Seran & Seallie Declaring itself ‘Edinburgh's leading gastro pub ‘may seem a wee bit cheeky but the Seran & Scallie hits the mark when it comes to good. honest Scottish cooking, Hearty is the theme here. in terms of decor, qualty of produce and portions, Steak pie would more than fillthe belly of agiant, and beet tartare and bone marrow toast istruly spectacular. The dining room s of 9 wee pub —all part a the burgeoning Tom Kitchin empire. fine selection of ales are also served How much: Three courses, fom £21 per person. seranandscallie.com rnatgetrovcller cok | National Geographic Traveller 61Dut the plates — from head chef Craig Sandle are always vibrant Downstairs at Galvins Brasserie de Luxe, the pair bring the relaxed ambience oftheir London bistros, with a fabulous circular seafood counter and a particularly bargainous set menu of £19.50 for three courses. You may not se it listed, but ‘whisper and the Galvin’ famed erab and scallop lasagne, an astonishing pillow of moussey loveliness enveloped between slips of silky past may become your new favourite thing ‘A.wander up towards the Meadows will bring you to Azle (an old Seots word meaning ember ‘or spark), where chef Stuart Ralston has returned from Barbados with his mixologist wife Krystal to open a quitky spot offering a monthly- ‘changing menu with no choices, just a ist of. ingredients subheaded ‘Harvest. First come four snacks, then three courses, dessert, coffee and petit fours for £45, and with paired drinks £65. There's crispy pigs trotter, ‘kimehi and radish as a snack and a stunning starter of bolognese of wild venison served with sheeps’ milk curd agnolotti and punterell, These are followed by Loch Awe trout and Gartmora Farm chicken, both technically inventive plates using the best of Scotland's seasonal larder. Local farmers, producers and foragers are also the main drive ofthe menu at The Gardener's Cottage, an attractive restaurant ereated from a tiny litle house designed by Edinburgh architect William Playfair and the one-time home ofthe man who tended the greenery around Royal ‘Terrace. Vinyl plays on an old turntable and we ‘swoon over potted smokie (smoked haddock), ‘pumpkin and gingerbread agnolotti and pheasant ‘with damson sauce. Sea buckthorn seems to be the nautical berry de nos jours in Edinburgh and here itis made into a ripple ice eream served with a glorious smoked pumpkin cake, Down the hill in Stockbridge, we shelter from ‘a snel (keen) wind in the Seran & Seale (meaning food and seallywag), a traditional pub with a large dining room under the auspices of Michelin-starred chef Tom Kitehin and Dominic Jack. There's beef tartare where the raw meat (62 National Goographie Traveller | April 2015, seems to sing of recent pastures, a steak pie of Desperate Dan proportions, the pastry held up, by a piece of bone marrow. The fish pie pronounced the best the eater has ever had! ‘and the rest of the moreish deep-fried pigs cars ‘and bubbled pork seratehings are taken home in a doggy bag. The ambience here is cosy and very distinetly Scottish — there’ lot of lovely Harris tweed and a scattering of sheepskin — wrapped in a hearty conviviality Inbetween the'big’ meals, Fhop around Edinburgh’ cheaper eateries, wolfing a spicy Scotch pie with erusty pastry at the Pie Maker ‘on South Bridge; heating my bones with a lash hhot chocolate at Mary’s Milk Bar, a vintage gem of a place where Mary Hillard makes her ‘own chocolates and icecream ina space out the back, My tastebuds are tickled by the flavours at Ting Thai Kitchen, with its vast, cheap menu of spectacular, spiey dishes up near the university. From the top of Calton Hil, I look again at the city’s handsome views. Oh, my darling Edina, why did I ever leave you? thisisedinburgh.com From top: GrassmarketStret shops seabuckthorn dish, Timberyar. Inset from top: Cranachan & Crousiehampee: sampling atl) Melis cheesemongers ‘i Ue Loe a NBS ee ros en ny) ee eer ages rest on THEWHISKY SHOP See veer UMELLIS ce un TAC enero) es NAGE TTY TWBERARD, ChAMCHANA CRE MESPAST & PRESENT ge OURNEYS LET THE MARKET LEADERS BE YOUR PARTNER IN THE BALKANS Past & Present Journeys is an innovative and creative Destination Management Company. We pride ourselves on our exceptional standards of service and our 24/7 concierge service ensures we meet your needs. Whatever your needs, Past & Present Journeys can assist you to develop a program to suite your style: escorted group tours & Fils, tailor-made itineraries, city breaks, special-interest tours, offthe-beaten-track _ itineraries, beach holidays, events planning and incentives. Looking for a new city break destination, with boutique hotels, good restaurants, outdoor cafes’ and a buzzing nightlife? Tirana, Sarajevo, Skopje, Budva or Pristina. Albania and the Balkans are the next hotspot in Europe. Let the experienced team at Past & Present Journeys help you introduce this, intriguing region. Poe oa Pei ea)SLEEP SLEEP I s The city-state is brimming with places to stay, but which hotels hit the mark? We reveal all, from laid-back hideaways to grande dames oozing colonial opulence, and hipster padsin Chinatown taking design to new heights WORDS: Lee Cobaj cable cars, casinos, and day-trippers, stylish Singaporeans heabitshy about wich they enjoy wiring from jungle tobeach, go 01 We recommend: CAPELLA Cinging toa verdant jungle citside, overlooking the South China Sea, this five-star hotel has design credentials todiefor.Atits centre are two former British Army barracks, dating back to the 1880s, which have been transformed by the sinuous Sir Norman Foster-designed structure that wraps around them and sweeps down the hilside. Chic rooms are luxuriantly-huediin shades of wheat, ‘mink ancl amber, with dark wood furniture, spa bathrooms and private balconies, Languish by one of three swimming pools, relaxin the Auriga Spa, sip drinks at open-air B0b's Bar, or eat dim sumat the Andre Fu-designed Cassia restaurant, Rooms: Doubles from SGD779 (£375), capeliahotels.com Asia. There arealso handful ofheritage bunch ofbeaches, and somesexy seaside | April 2035 02Best{or posing: W SINGAPORE Flanked by a flotiiaof private yachts and rows of fancy shops and restaurants, the 240:room Worings a slice of Miami Vice to Sentosa Island Rather than opt for the usual black marble and gliter balls associated with the W brand, this seaside resort is a much sunnier affair, with swathes of creamy marble, lossy woods. pale {god ting and artful crystal chandeliers. The spalooks like it's been transported from the set of 2001: Space Odyssey, the pool isbathed in violet neon ight at night, and the rooms come with big puy beds and bathrooms stacked with Bliss amenities. it's ablast Rooms: Doubles from SGD419 (£202), singaporesentosacove.com cesT cae SNARESLEEP LLM! HISTORIC CENTRE AND RIVERSIDE. Thisis whereit all began, in 1819, wh Brit Sir-Stamford Rattles sailed around the Malay Peningula, planted the Union Jack, and founded Singapore. Colonial Neoekassi Gothic churches, Palladian theatres preserved. But thisivalso where ingapore’spast imeetsits glimmering, fature. Round the riverand be wowed bythe Marina Bay Sands Casino’ triple towers, the slant Singapor Hier Ferris wheel, and the teatar-tie Supertree Grove, 01Werecommend: RAFFLES SINGAPORE Don'tlsten to anyone who tells you Rattles is a tourist trap — they've clearly never stayed. Sure, the shopping arcadeis ively and there are queues cut the door for an original Singapore Sing at the Long Bar, but once you've sipped behind the velvet rope, this prande dame isnothing short of ‘magnificent. Guests are tucked away in colonial era suites ~ alldark, teakwood flaors and sky oriental rugs against creamy walls and pale paisley prints. Each has its ownlittl balcony space in the colonnaded corridor, a vast, vintage-style bathroom and butlers any dowager countess would be proud ot. The real character of the place, though. isto be foundin the public spaces, where ladies in twinsets and pearts take afternoonttea, businesspeople broker deals over tifins of cury, and honeymooners lock eyes inthe Writer's Bar as the pianist strikes up ‘their song’ A stay at Rattles, is far from affordable, butt is unforgettable, Rooms: Doubs trom SGD1,400 (2653), B&B, ratfles.com (66: National Geographie Traveller | April 2015, 02 Best for budget: ADONIS HOTEL SINGAPORE Chinese shophouse meets New York loft at this. tiny 19-room boutique abode, round the corner from Raffles, Crisp, clean rooms are kitted out \with powerful showers and free wif Breakfast and evening cocktails are included, served in the bar-cum-restaurant-cum-reception area Rooms: Doubles from SGD216 (£105), B&B, hroteladonis.com 03 Best for eye-candy: THE FULLERTON BAY HOTEL This ce cube shaped hotel is Singapore incarnate = cool, confident and sparkling onthe outside, fullof tradition and tranquility inside. its 100 huge rooms exude a loury cruseliner feel, with walnut furnishings and views ofthe riverside district or Marina Bay Waterfront. Hit the rooftop poo! late afternoon, before sunset cocktails at Lantern Bar Rooms: Doubles from SGD550 (£270). B&B, fullertonbayhotel com > maces: TT AFL: ADONS FLERTONEAYAi) | | | |cme Crh akon eh eae i e — Discover an oasis of opulence in Oman . Dea ora ae cE designer Alfredo Freda, is situated on the picturesque Gulf of Oman. Our international staff pride themselves on providing world-class service, but it’s the extra touches that our guests enjoy most, For reservations, +968 247 49111 reservations@sifawyhotel.com ffi Sifawy Boutique HotelcesT NM MLEST: so HPORE —, UU Uti GHINATON AND CBD : South ofthe river, y sgritand glam sit side “4 Ise in Chinatown ind the CBD (Cent Business Distrie). ‘Thelatter'scolourful tourist stripsmived ‘with atmospheric alleys, Chinese mansions, Taoist templesand food markets. Club Street and Ann Siang Hill arealsohere, their former shophouses packed! with ate- night revellers. And while the CBD can feel sterilein places, particularly atweehends, its benefitted from itgproximity to ‘Chinatown; new bars, restaurants, and hotels areshooting, upallthetime. o1 01 Werecommend: NEW MAJESTIC HOTEL ‘Singaporeans from the worlds of theatre, cinema, fashion and tech instalation created the hotel's 30 rooms — and what fun they had. There are sp-level suites soaring into attic spaces: {garden rooms with geishas painted on the walls and views over Chinatown’s rooftops: and pretty balcony rooms billowing in red silkand lit by lotus lamps. Egyptian cotton bedding free wifi and juices only add to their appeal. Elsewhere, there's a ‘pool, a Cantonese restaurant, and a lobby with reconditioned 1930s barbers’ chairs. Skip the skimpy breakfast and venture ‘out into the neighbourhood: Chinatown’ Bukit Pasoh Conservation Area has rainbow-coloured shophouses, organic cafes, yoga and meditation centres and day spas. Rooms: Doubles from $G0230 (£112). ‘newmajestichotelcom SLEEP 02 Best for night owls: NAUMI LIORA Located on cool-as-you-tke Keong Saik Road, across the way from the latest Potato Head Folk restaurant/lounge, the Numi iora couldn't bebetter placed for roling out of clubs and straight into bed — just aim for the tangerine- and: green facade. The entry-level rooms don't have windows but an extra £30 will buy an upgrade to one ofthe leaty porch suites. And while there isrt anywhere for breakfast the neighbourhood tems with atmospheric cafes serving creamy kaya toast and potent cups of kopi Rooms: Doubles from SGD160 (£78) paumiiora.com 03 Best for fashionable types: SOFITEL SO SINGAPORE The sparkly new Sofitel So Singapore — which opened last summer in the heart of the CBD — is. currently the most fashionable hotel in town, Guests are greeted by glamorous staff. draped in black-and-white Chanel suits, before being whisked torooms hewn from the angled corners 0f 2920s telegraphic centre. The Xperience Restaurant serves up a fabulous breakfast, and anexciting fusion of Singaporean and French Culsines throughout the rest ofthe day. But t's the Karl Lagerfeld-designed gold-tled rooftop pool that really steals the show. Rooms: Doubles trom SGD300 (£146). sofitelcom > ratgotrvllercosk | Natonal Geographic Traveller 69SLEEP HUM ORCHARD ROAD Orchard Road, former nutmegand pepper plantat sprouts fro cexiges of the Historie Diste forovera mile, hedged by mi office towers, swish, tment blocks, hotels, and 01 Werecommend: HOTEL JEN ORCHARDGATEWAY SINGAPORE This 502-room hotel might be aimed at a new jen-eration’ (thelr word, not mine) but an in-the:thick oft location fresh interiors, and surprisingly affordable rates make Hotel Jen ‘a top choice fr travellers ofall ages. Naturally ‘the hotel is well connected: both technically — youl find free, fast, wi-fi acrossits 10 storeys ‘and mobile-charging stations all over the place — and logistically; the MRT subway runs straight from Chang! airport tothe air-conditioned mall below, meaning youdon'thave to lug your suitcase through Singapore's streets in crushing heat and humidity. Floors are slotted with ish sky gardens, acafe bar anda restaurant, while up top there's asnazzy rooftop pool, sporting lime-green-and:-tangerine beanbags, atk bar, and super views ofthe city, from Litle India in thenorth all the way past Fort Canning Park to the Marina Bay Sandsin the south. The catch? Rooms are on the smallside. But, on the other hand, the beds are huge and very comfortable, Rooms: Doubles from SGD240 (£117), hhotejen.com onal Geographic Traveller | Apel 2015 02 Restfor business: THE QUINCY HOTEL This smart 187-room hotels close to Orchard Road and the vast Paragon shopping centre. The lobby makes quite an impression, with soaring steel, smoked glass and funky at installations, The list of free amenities and services i extensive: Egyptian cotton sheets, Molton Brown toiletries, we, local calls, minibar and one-way transfer, plusall-day dining at local eatery Dean & Deluca, Rooms: Doubles from SGD264 (£129), B&B. ‘uincy.com.sg 03 Best for pampering: THE ST. REGIS SINGAPORE This European-style haven. at the top of Orchard Road, bordering Tangin. is flanked by posh malls, pretty suburbs and parkland. The lobby appears tehave more marble than the Palace of Versailles and the rooms share the Galic vibe (high elings, pale sik wal-coverings and marble bathrooms) The Remede Spa is one of the city’s best, plus there's a tropical pool and six restaurants Rooms: Doubles from SGD408 (£195) stregissingapore.com OTE. ENORONARDCATENA TH UNC SARWOOD aces erCAPODORSO VALLE ERICA MARINEDDA. CALA FALCO CALA RE TORRERUA = LEDUNE LMICOSTA Win a fanastie 9-day adventure Cae ue ter ACTIVITIES INCLUDED... Zip-wiring through Monteverde’s Cloud Foret, horse. ON Te cee raed On a cna beni ow ro ENTER| Temata ery GC or ABTA Pee Gee tar) small-group adventure for an irresistible ee ace rafting and whizzing through the forest ‘canopy on a zip-wire. EO een SE eo en ey Teo ea ences and CO ee Ed Ce aa Crt ing up close eR EM PSC Rd eo To a? eR Ts Deere) Pe ie just for you ee OL CTO cs 01962 737 630 a Ea exon g eSLucia is mountainous. Those who lie on her volcanic beaches do s0:in style, but there’ more intrigue in the rainforest-smothered interior. From St Lucia’s highest points, you gaze over a canopy of green. These are the places where the real Caribbean still lives and breathes, away from sun loungers and cocktails.” LYDIABELL INSTLUCIA, P80 7A. COVER STORY: AMERICAN ADVENTURE 90 STLUCIA 102 OMAN TH DISTANT ISLANDS 124 IN PICTURES: MONTENEGRO 134. CITY UF: PARIS 142 CITY LIFE: FLORENCE AS LONG WEEKEND: IRELAND rnatgcotrvllercak | National Geographic rasller 73*THE GREAT* AMERICAN ADVENTURE Whether it's cliff camping, wild horse-riding, paddling through swamps or chasing storms, the USA isno stranger torugged, rawand often terrifying adventure experiences. Take a deep breath and dive rightin... WORDS: Aaron Miller raph Traveller | April 2015MUSTANG MONUMENT Sree ‘Theres no time torrun, In the cold amber of dawn, Te crept ‘out alone to a band of wild mustang horses, stealing between seratches of sagebrush and swaying crests of ryegrass until, without me noticing, I'm surrounded by the herd, close {enough to see the muscles flexing on their legs and the sweat beading on the back oftheir necks. Suddenly, a mare charges eyes flaring, snorting angrily — stopping a few feet from iy trembling hands to raise her head in defiance. Later, Clay Naninni a local cowboy whose friendly swagger could have charmed John Wayne out of town, laughs it off: “She was just playing,” he says, But fim not so sure ‘The wild rights of some 40,000 mustangs are under threat. For more than 400 years, these horses have wandered the tern range, an unfathomable ‘emptiness of grasslands and salt beds, stretching from Utah across Nevada and into California and Oregon. Butin this ‘water-poor, eattle-rich region, free-roaming horses are increasingly seen asa threat, Ranchers laim that without a natural predator, their presence is unsustainable and the Bureau of Land Management — charged under federal law With maintaining an ecological balance of grazing rights has, more often than not, agreed. As a result, round-ups ‘of wild horses destined for holding pens or worse, ilegal pouehing and slaughterhouses, have become a regul ‘occurrence, In 2013, nearly $50 million (£33 million) was spent keeping almost 50,000 wild horses in captivity. But there may be a solution. Businesswoman and philanthropist Madeleine Pickens — a glamorous bi so beautiful, she could have stepped out of the pages of a Jackie Collins novel — has built the world frst wild horse esort: a900-sq mile sanctuary for up to 1,000 mustangs who have been forcibly removed from the land, By negating the need for expensive holding pens, she believes her ranch Great Basin of America’s w SS NEVADA can spare US tax payers up to millions of dollars a year, while allowing the horses to remain free and enabling tourists to connect with this iconie symbol ofthe American West Teouldn't wait to take a look ‘The resort itself is glamping on diamond-studded flysheets ithentie reclaimed wood eabins, and enormous hand: maces: AON MLLER EST OHNSONpainted teepees, lavished with rustic chic interiors, artisan throws and hand-carved rocking chairs that gaze out tothe herd. Home-cooked communal banquets are served every night. Cocktails are served at every opportunity. Staying here is like being in a Vague editor's daydream of the Wild West: sensual, stylish, but with just the right amount of dust and grit to make it real Six hundred of Madeleine’ herd wander freely across her lands, but a select few have been trained for guests to ride. On iy first morning, [helped Clay round up our horses, watehing him driving a band of two dozen across the range ‘with swirling lasso cracks, jaw clicks and whistles. We corralled them, chose our mounts and kicked higher into the Spruce Mountains — one of three ranges encompassed by the property — the seent of broken sagebrush filling the air. “That smell isthe number one thing I love about Nevada,” Clay sai “Well, number two; the bars don't close.” Later that day we explored ghosted l9th-century gold mining settlements, tricked wild horses from watering holes to grazing meadows, and feasted on a pienic of cheeseboards, salads and fresh baked cookies bussed up to meet us with dining tables, armchairs, wine and hot eoffee. If Downton Abbey went west, thought, this would be how they’ do it. Stil, I wanted to get closer. Experienced equestrians ean ride alongside the wild herd, but it ean he dangerous: the ground is uneven, the horses unpredictable and your mount is liable to bolt. Thankfully, there is another way. Antieipating the need to branch out from traditional, ranch-style experiences, Madeleine, with the kind of intoxicating lack of| frugality one would expect from a billionaire, purchased two of the highest-powered, all-terrain vehicles (ATVs) known to ‘man, and an ex-Navy Seal to drive them. ‘The next morning we tore deep into the ranchis grazing ssrounds, sliding to tipping point on every corner, joyous terror emanating from every orifice. And then we saw them: ‘herd, 40-strong, cutting through the high desert in a dust storm of galloping hooves, muscle and grace. “Tobe near them,” Clay had said earlier, “is like thunder” But it felt more than that too. As we matched their speed, pulling up alongside them to hear the beat of their hooves on. the open ground, it felt ike Iwas somehow connected, for just ‘an instant, to that wild spirit they represent. ‘On my last morning we roped up two enormous draft horses, Pat and Duke, to a hay wagon and rattled down to {feed the herd. Once again I found myself surrounded, though not hy a small band — 600 wild stamping hooves and darting black eyes circled us nervously. Yet, | wasnt afraid, There is something harmonious about seeing the mustangs in this landscape as they seem to bea living symbol of that free, untamed spirit that helped build the American West. ‘Then they were running again, circling us ina mist of bleached white dust. watched them in awe, willing them to always roam free How to do it: Mustang Monument Wild Horse Eeo Resort, ‘outside of Wells, Nevada, costs $1,000 (£650) per tepee per night and 81,500 (£970) per cottage per night for two, including full board and all activities. rmustangmonument.com Alternative: Ride out with a herd of 2,500 bison at Zapata Ranch, Colorado. Six nights with Ranch Rider costs from £1,495 per person, based on two sharing, including accommodation, meals and activities. Flights not included, ranchrider.com > Previous page: Hiking slong aredrocktrallat sunset. This page clockwise from top left: Mustangs being rounded up: local Antelope ranch hand Clay Naninn: Mustang Monument topees. ratgrtrivellerco.h | National Geographic Traveller 77AMERICAN ADVENTURE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK WYOMING Twenty years ago t 3 tocull the escalating elk numb nental effects of aver-grazing, Their impai eco-system was dramatie, helping to rege devastated valleys and restore the habitats of numerous smaller I. Go and see for yourself on a wolf-watehing adventurein Yellowstone, now one of the most reliable places remarkable alpha predator inaction. Wolf Guides offers six-day, expert-led catching trips in Yellowstone from $1,670 (£1,080) per person including accommodation, transport, equipment and Is. Flights not included, yelowstonewolfguides.com a For thousands of years t red in the a network da fishing industry whieh, at its peak, supported ‘as many as 50,000 individuals. ls now possible to experience this indigenous history fist hand on the Great Calusa ile network of paddling routes th amps and tropical islands that the ‘once made their home. Diseaver enormous shell mounds used as burial sites, and share water with wild manatees bottlenose dolphins — this isone ofthe best viewing ry Details: Download and canoe outfitters, From lef: Coyote, Yellowstone Nationa Park Geographic Traveller | April 2015,AMERICAN ADVENTURE YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK CALIFORNIA This October marks the 125th anniversary of the iconic wilderness destination of Yosemite National Park. But it can get busy. Escape the crowds, with a catered camp-to-camp, long-distance hike through its undiscovered backcountry. The bunkhouse-style tents are basic, but the locations deep in the glacier valleys and granite domes of the High Sierra Mountains — accessible only by boot or saddle — are sublime. Details: Open June-September. Advance reservations are granted on alottery basis breakfast and dorm, Expect 6-10 miles of walking per day. From $180 (£118) per person per night including dinner, yosemiteexperience.com >AMERICAN ADVENTURE ESCALANTE ———— UTAH Put 127 Hours (the movie of the true story of Aron Ralston who was forced to saw off his own arm after becoming stuck in a slot canyon) out of your mind. Canyoning — the art of scrambling, sliding and smearing through narrow rock gorges — is adventure at its most raw, remote and rewarding Spend three nights exploring the spiralling stone ravines of Escalante, returning to base camp each night for home-cooked meals and unrivalled stargazing. Details: E: calante ccursions of canyoning trips from $1,180 (£760) per person, including equipment, guides and meals. excursionsofescalante.com top: Hiking in Escalante canyon: jumping into the waters of Lake Superior, Michi Catamount Tra, Vermont ISLE ROYAL NATIONAL PARK eS MICHIGAN Isle Royale, on Lake Sup smallest, and least visited, brim with wolves, moose and son in the country: It also holds a itt ‘may be one of Americas tional parks but it’ filled to the the finest wild camping known secret: beneath its cold, clear waters is some of the best shipwreck diving in the world, Spend afew days on a live-aboard yacht exploring sunken wrecks and submarine tr with plenty oftime todiscover the island scenery along the way. nps.gos/isro ils: Isle Royal Charters offers five-day ive-aboard shipwreck dives in various locations. isleroyalecharters.com Superior Trips offers four-day shipwreck and alternative live-aboard diving tripsin the area. superiortrips.com > aces e117TECHNICAL CLOTHING FOR MOUNTAINEERING, WINTER CLIMBING AND ALL-MOUNTAIN SKIING TOTAL Cele avai] FOCUSveto TAL Deep in the snowy heart of Vermont's Green Mountains is the Lg J 300-mile, inn-to-inn Catamount Trail, the longest ski-touring route in the US, which stretches across the length of the state from Massachusetts to Quebec. If the end-to-end challenge is too intense (even with warm inns and hot cocoa at the end of each day), try the four-day Bolton Valley to Stowe route instead, 27-miles of stunning scenery, with a wonderful mixture of groomed and backcountry s s: For guided and self-guided more, go to catamounttrail.org > ‘ing throughout. De ineraries, lodging, events and rnatgcotrclleak | National Geographic ravller 83Join us on our quest to explore the real Americas. Our tours encompass the most exciting sights and highlights, visits to off -the-beaten-path locations which you wouldn't find if travelling alone and a whole range of exciting activities. Awide choice of authentic travel Choose from active, discovery, experiences walking, wildlife, family & more Highly trained & experienced No single supplements tour leaders Visit www.grandamericanadventures.com USA ¥ Canada & Alaska ¥ Central & South AmericaAMERICANADVENTURE | LAKE TAHOE NEVADA 165 miles of mountain biking paradise looping around the high mountains of Lake Tahoe, And with the first direct London to Reno flights scheduled to start later this year, there's never been a better time to check it out. Expect lightning quick descents, steep summit climbs, waterfalls, wildflowers and open country on every bend. Don't fancy peddling? ‘Try hiking or horse riding the trail instead. Detail Certain sections are off-limits to mountain bikers. For further information, maps, bike rentals, shuttle services and accommodation options, g0 to tahoerimtrail.org > 3] ight: A manbikingalong the Fume Taloverlooking Lake Tahoe, Nevada State ParkROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK Saag COLORADO 1am standing on the edge ofa cliff and a manis telling me to Jump. Its the mide of the night, my hands are shaking, and ‘common sense is sereaming at me to go home. But somehow I take my first tentative steps backwards down the vertical drop, until Tm surrounded by an abyss of darkness. There will he no home, no safety tonight for me. 1am eliffeamping and I have never been so scared in all my life. ‘The concept, pioneered by Kent Mountain Adventure Center, based just outside Rocky Mountain National Park, 4s simple ast is terrifying: vertical virgins, in the hands of experienced climbing guides, will spend one bucket-list night dangling 10,000ft high, and 500ft above solid ground, on a professional mountain portaledge — one of those flimsy portable cots mountaineers sleep on during multi-day, big wall ascents. But that makes it sound relatively banal. Imagine instead bedding down on a park bench, with no sides, suspended at ‘knee-trembling heights by nothing more than bolts, rope and ‘an optimist sense of the future, Extreme sleeping may have ‘once sounded like a contradiction in terms, but not anymore Our day began with a practice session ascending fixed lines ata nearby crag, No climbing experience is required, but it not easy — more like climbing a rope ladder, as steady asa surfboard, which you build yourself rung by rung, Accompanying me is my wife, Gillian. She is as graceful as flowing water; Lam as awkward as bad dancing. Then the mystery of portaledge pee etiquette is revealed: a funnel-Hike contraption called a she-pee for the giels and an empty bottle for the boys. Anything more than that, you just don't go. ‘Then we were of, hiking to the base of our lif, ominously named Deville, as chipmunks chirped through pine trees and herd of elk lazed by the side ofthe trail. The cartoon conditions weren't to last; just as our guide Buster Jesik the climbing equivalent of Jason Bourne, set up the portaledge —an alarmingly miniscule dot, high on the cliff face above — dark clouds rolled over the mountains, assailing usin hal, high winds and deep drum rolls of thunder. We waited it out and then, as dusk fell, began to scale the 160ft vertical ascent. Just as I reached the top, a flash of lightning exploded in blinding, deafening power by our side. “Move fast!” Buster shouted, roping me up to an emergency abseil, my giggly anxiety transforming to quiet terror. We descended shaking and drenched, our dalliance with death-defiance temporarily dashed by the weather. But Buster had other plans: we were going to wait out the storm, bushiwhack up the backside of the mountain — in the dark, in bear country — and then abseil down to the portaledge for the night. For a while, surprisingly, it went smoothly: We even hhad time to admire the flickering lights ofthe town far below. ‘Then we reached the crevasse. Three feet is not along way’ to jump, you could step over it with a stretch. But with 500R of darkness beneath you, three feet is a hop of Olympi standards, Buster skipped backwards and forwards like a mountain goat. Gillian went without so much as a sniffle. And then me. I would lke to say that time slowed, that I reached a state of heightened awareness in which all fear evaporated. But I stalled, I swore, I talked tacties. Eventually, ike so {86 National Goographie Traveller | April 2015, ‘many things in lif, it became searier to stay where I was than tomake the leap. Landing that jump was like scaling my own personal Mount Everest. T reached the portaledge, tied in and lay down. The stars were out now, spirals of the Milky Way deepening in a ‘moonless night, but I barely noticed. While Gillian and Buster laughed, sipped flasks of wine and, eventually, drifted off to sleep, I gripped the portaledge like a drowning man to a raft. Wind rattled our bed. Vertigo, insidious and dizzy, dilated my pupils toa steady panic. But then T remembered something. Buster had said: “Your mind will tell you you shouldn't be there,’ he had warned. “The secret is controlling it.” ‘When dawn finally broke, flooding colour onto the treetops and shadows of the Rocky Mountains, my courage finally ‘emerged too. “Only a handful of people ever get to see this” Gillian said In the distance, hundreds of feet below, we watched people getting in their ears, going to work. tS good to get seared sometimes,” Buster had said, “stretches the limits of who you are? Well, Thave never been so terrified in all my life. When my feet touched solid ground again, I shamelessly kissed the dirt. How to do it: Kent Mountain Adventure Center offers elif camping for £520 ($800) per person, based on an overnight tour for to, including mountain guides, equipment, transfers and meals. kmaconline.com Alternative: Seared of heights? Try backeountry camping in the Rocky Mountains. nps.gov/romo > From left A mountainhiker: lif camping in aportaledae ces cava war RBC ULESCs Pepa HELLS CANYON ———— OREGON Hells Canyon — straddling the border of Oregon and Idaho — gorge in North America, and with a name is the deepest river like that you can be sure the rapids won't scrimp on screams. Spend five days rafting along Snake River, navigating powerful class IL and IV whitewater, catching your dinner and stopping to explore ancient Native American pit houses, rock shelters and pictographs along the route. Details: Winding Waters Rafting has all- inclusive, five-day rafting trips, May- September, from $1,555 (£1,000) per person. Suitable for ages seven years and over. Flights not included. windingwatersrafting.com From top: Hels Caryon rapids: a stormchaser watches asupercell thunderstormin Tornado Alley {88 National Geographic Traveller | April2015 TORNADO ALLEY S55 OKLAHOMA Few adventures get the heart beating faster than facing down the vortex of an onrushing tornado. Join a team of expert stormchasers in Tornado Alley, stretching across Oklahoma, ind Nebraska, for some up-close meteorolo er table anecdotes to last for years to come. asing Adventure Tours has six-day t from $2,800 (£1,800) per person including accommo transportation and expert guides, Flights not included. stormehasing.com 0 z : i § 3A CHIC SEASIDE ESCAPE From the pristine shores of the Bay of Kotor on the Adriatic Sea comes Regent Porto Montenegro. Opulence infused with local flair and impeccable service that is effortlessly attentive - Bespoke Luxury by Regent. CRegent PORTO MONTENEGRO www:regenthotels.com/Porto-Montenegromore intrigue in the rainforest-smothered interior — mountainous canopy of green is where the real Caribbean stil and breathesST LUCIA ENO IS MIMICKING THE CALL OF THE RED-NECKED PIGEON, THE WARBLER AND THE BULLFINCH, AND THE SQUEAKY SONG OF THE BANANA QUICK. His call works — they throng towards us. "See how my birds come when I call!” he ries, laughing merrily. “When Father ‘Nature calls, they come.” ‘Hummingbirds start flickering around us, too. "Now Til make a sound to attract the bigger birds,” he says, and starts imitating the ghostly call of the oriole, then the peewee. They flit miraculously overhead. ‘Meno, my birding guru, has been branded Father Nature — due to his extensive knowledge ofthe forests’ healing. powers, It started at just three years old, when he became ‘dangerously ill with pneumonia. His mother, who'd already lost two of her 12 children in infancy, sent him to his forest= ‘welling herbalist grandma to give him a fighting chance. She ‘nursed him back to health with nothing but citrus leaf tea ‘and other medicinal forest plants. In gratitude, Meno devoted his life to learning what else the forest could teach him, ‘We're out the jungly back of Anse Mamin, a velvety-silver, voleanie-sand beach on the Anse Chastanet estate in the southern reaches of St Lucia, where an old cast-iron eauldron, ‘made for boiling sugar cane juice into molasses is being used ‘as abarbecue, The estate is home to two of St Lucas most elegant hotels — Anse Chastanet Resort St Lucia and Jade Mountain Resort. The former has been around since the 1970s, the latter — built by the same family in 2006 — is the sine qua non of St Lucia luxury hotels. But it retains much of ts bird- filled wildness, interpreted beautifully by its binding experts. ‘At Jade Mountain there's no fourth wall in the rooms, so you share your boudoir with the elements and creatures of the Jungle. This is not a hotel for lovers of connectivity and state- ‘of-the-art entertainment systems; its more about holing {92 National Goographie Traveller | April 2015, ‘yourself up with the best view in the world, Finding a brown booby with its beak in your eappuecino is an occupational hhazard, Out here in the forest, they rule the roost. Meno shows me a hummingbied nest as big asthe circle made by ‘your thumb and forefinger. They're preyed on by mangrove ccuckoos, which feast on hummingbird chicks. Overhead, a kestrel fies past with a erested hummingbird in his beak. ‘We walk on dank, peat-brown paths, dusted with the tiny cream flowers of the cocoa beau tree, pasta large cedar tree hich has twisted itself overa rock; over fallen blooms, under Fhuge mango trees and past tinkling streams to a soundtrack of rolling surf. I's rainy season and we pad through the \water-drenched forest, covering our heads with elephant leafs, We admire the calabash tree, the shells of ts fruit used throughout Caribbean history for barrels, bowls and cups. “Termites have devoured some of the trees, or as Meme put “The termite says,‘ will yum yum that tree” He plucks a West Indian bay leaf from a tree for me to inhale its seent, pausing to ask the tree: “May I have one of ‘your leaves?” His grandmother told him to do that, Meme says. “Because would you like it ifsomeone came up to you ‘and pulled out one of your hairs?” T meet Meno’ cat, which lives in a huton the estate. He appears on the forest path. "Tiger! Come say hi to our visitors," commands Meno, who aquired him as a sick, weak, abandoned kitten, fed him up, and had him neutered so he wouldn't wander. ‘The ruined remains of the plantation have been semi- swallowed by the forest. They include a ramshackle house, high on a rock, a former save cottage and the old rindi and boiling room ~ the disused molasses steam boiler now coated in moss amid ruins given over to giant ferns, ree > Left: Bird watching tour guide Meno, Clockwise from top: Gros sie: Soutiee: playing dominoes at bar Gros setSTLUCIA c /atwic oL. TABLE‘ST LUCIA. THE PITONS TOWER ABOVE A CALDERA-LIKE FORMATION — PART OF A VAST VOLCANIC COMPLEX THAT ARCS 434 MILES ALONG THE LESSER ANTILLES. THEY’RE REMNANTS OF LAVA DOMES FORMED OVER 300,000 YEARS AGOroots and vanilla vines. The beach is named after the first ‘owner of the plantation — a sugar, avocado and coconut farm worked by 60 slaves. Any who eseaped and were eaught were suillotined in the main square in Soutriére infront ofthe rest ofthe enslaved population, The molasses they helped to produce were shipped to Martinique for refining. In the 1700s, the Caribbean's first dam was built here, and many of the plantation’ human bulldozers died inthe process. I's still intact, still regularly lashed with tropical rain, its water the colour of pale moss, and the only visitor today is awhite heron standing stock-stillon its edge ike a question mak PITONS PEAK St Lucia rises like a green fang from the Caribbean, its ‘win Pitons the long-standing poster girls for Caribbean, tourism, The island isthe ultimate honeymooners’ crash pad, nicknamed the Helen of the West Indies’ fr its siren beauty. Covering just 2388q miles, its peppered with a rich seam of onc me couples’ digs. But there are many more strings to St Lueia’s bow: The island changed ownership 14 times, belonging to the French and the British seven times cach, and this cultural legacy has infused the local Kwéydl I SLIDE INTO THE HOT, DARK POOL WITH A GAGGLE OF HONEYMOONERS AND SLATHER MYSELF IN DARK MINERAL MUD, BREATHING THE EGG-TINGED AIR village communities. They come alive with ish fys' and “jump up’ every night of the week. The local cuisine isa heady fasion of African, European and indigenous influences, inflected with the inereasing sophistication ofthe hotel scene but underpinned withthe unfussy, earthy, spiced, slaughterhouse food of colonial times. St Lucia is mountainous. Those who lie on her voleanie beaches do so in style, but theres more intrigue in the rainforest-smothered interior. From St Lucia’ highest point, you gaze over a canopy of green, You eant et off the beaten track in fat Caribbean islands — everywhere you go you're trespassing. But the interiors of mountainous, volcanic islands are defined by histories ofescape and hiding, Slaves escaped to the hills. Theyre hotter, wetter, and denser. ‘They have pregnant pools of water and secluded waterfall ‘These are the places where the rea Caribbean still lives and Ireathes, away from sun loungers and cocktails. “The Pitons tower above a ealderalike formation ~ part ofa vast voleanic eomplex that ares 434 miles long the Lesser Antilles. They're remnants of ava domes formed over 300,000 years ago by a collapsed strata voleano Its all very wel gazing at them fom the heach or hotel window, but trading up one ofthe two spires Jends a different perspective. Ihave zero ambition to seale both and I hear that precious ew fllow through with this ide after they've climbed one). At Sam, when [arise to limb Gros Piton, its drizzling and my ambition is thinning, but press on. "There are good and bad things about climbing the Pitons in rainy season. I'm happy tose the St Lucia oriole, the St Lucia pewee and the St Lucia warbler and all three ‘main varieties of hummingbird — the Antilean crested, ‘purple-throatedearib and green-throated earib ~ feasting ona blooming tee. But the pathisa sodden, ST LUCIA steep mess of leaves, roots and mud. At 2,614, scaling Gros Piton involves a five-hour trek inthe rainy shush I fall three times, But the clouds part as I reach the summit. From here, ean see right across to Martinique. The summit is cool, hush and qh ‘The closest town to the Pitons is Souftiére, founded by the French in 1746. Its no sanitised tourist town; instead, it shimmies to the sound of reggae, dancehall and vehicle hhorns and retains a cut-off, country air with its tumbledown, colonial-era buildings. At the northern end of Soufriere Beach, you'll find the tiny, pleasantly faded Hummingbird Beach Resort, owned by the vivacious Joyce Alexander Stove. ‘The simple rooms have Piton views and there’ a Creole restaurant that serves local fish and freshwater crayfish. Soufriére sits inside the horseshoe-shaped caldera of a four mile-wide voleano, The town has the second-deepest harbour in the Caribbean. Nearby are the Sulphur Springs, the hottest and most active geothermal area in the Lesser Antilles. They like a marketing campaign in these parts, and bill the 11- acre park asthe Caribbean’ only drive-in voleano’ A walk through the crater takes you past fumaroles, pools and hot springs bubbling and belching with sulphur-laden steam. In one pool you can see the remains ofa bathhouse, builtin 1902 as a tourism enterprise in the days when you could only _get up here by carriage. I slide into the hot, dark pool with a ‘gaggle of honeymooners and slather myself in dark mineral nud, breathing the egg-tinged air. NATURE TRAIL "The epicentre ofthe super volcano is the impeccable ‘Sugar Beach hotel, located on the former Jalousie Plantation, which we reach by boat from Anse Chastanet, motoring pasta huge erevice in the sheer rock where thousands of fruit bats live. Sugar Beach is situated right between the Pitons. The imported sand from Guyana, sophisticated restaurants, beamed wisi and kaftan-clad girs eant dim the spiritual power of this spot. Pristine coral reefs lie just “offshore. 1 submerge myself to float past a reef that falls sway to create breathtaking 140ft coral wall; large trumpet fish are my constant companions, as is a fat itle turtle, Dut there are also myriad sponges, finfish, molluses, ‘echinoderms and worms, ‘Another precious spot is the Des Cartiers Rainforest, where ‘trekking route has been carved close to the international airport. Because it's a fair way from the tourist centres of the north, and there are other, more accessible, areas for walking, it’ill-visited — attracting about 20 visitors a month. We walk the trail alone to the call of the mountain whistler, whieh sounds like a rusty-hinged door being opened. The river ‘gushes below. The forest is flushed with sunshine after rain and we see a Broadwing hawk gliding above and eatch sight ‘of the lesser Antilleanflyeatcher and the St Lucia black finh, Best ofall are the playful St Lucia parrots, which plunge off| ter elifside roosts to soar over a ridge line we're watching, from a clearing. Deforestation by humans has been the ‘devastating factor for this, their national bid. ‘We walk pasta number of exotie species of flora brought in from the Blue Mountains of Jamaica to help prevent landslides after hurricanes. These include the blue mahoe and the ross mahogany. The park’s guide tells me that sgeoning movement in St Lucia towards Clockwise from top ltt: Birdwatching tour Anse Ghastant; beach bied-watehing tour Anse Maminstreet, Sourigre ratgsotrvllrcouk | Natlonal Geographic Traveller 7headed by the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust, which hhas operated in St Lucia since the 1970s and works with the country’s Forestry Departments on the restoration of endemic species and the control of invasive species. (On another nature tail, we come face to face with a lassie Caribbean political dispute. On Tet Paul Nature Trail you walk for about 45 minutes through sixaeres of sh country in the farming area of Chateau Belair, with panoramic views ‘ver the rippling green countryside ofthe south of the island, including Jalousie Ba; both Pitons, and Martinique and St Vincent. Part of the Piton Management area, it’s controlled by the Souftiere Foundation, Aland owner, who lives in Brita is busy cordoning off the tail with palm trunks when we arrive, beeause, she says, they have not paid her dues. She and hr siblings were born ina tiny cottage on the land. She waves us through anyway The whole ofthe south is studded with wild spots of spectacular beauty such as these: the lush, jungly Ms and Badolin gardens, and the prettiest of plantations. The Rabot Estate isthe spiritual home of chocolate, and ‘tour of ts cocoa plantation is a must for chocoholies. At Soufriére Estate's Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens, you. can't swim but you can watch the water cascading down stained rock face, At Latie waterfall, we chat ‘a owner John Celie, who lives off grid and feeds us starfruit wine and roasted breadnuts, Hit wasnt raining Tbe happy to get maximum value from my $10 entry fee and spend all day here. At Torille Falls, I get a 50-minute deep-tissue back, neck and shoulder massage and a refreshing plunge. ku ‘The north of St Lucia may be a hub for hoteliers; the epicentre, Rodney Bay, with its central urban area bristling with commerce, restaurants and malls, and the wider bay populated by big-brand hotels. But even Rodney Bay has its retail, at Mount Pinard. The fun way to cover the two-mile route is by Segway, with the Mount Pinard Segway Experience erew, While chugging along, the guides deliver charming nuggets of St Lucian history and point out local butterflies and flowers. ‘We stop to feed the freshwater fish at Stone Face Fish Pond and pass Second World War bunkers to gaze out on a sweeping vista of Rodney Bay and its glistening Marina, Pigeon Island, Reduit Beach, Mount Gimie, Martinique and the vast expanse of the Caribbean. Atthe highest viewpoint, vendors sell mangoes, pineapples and papayas. At Pigeon Island, we walk pine-shaded paths to discover a tiny sandy beach and the horizontally laid-back Jambe de Bois restaurant, named after the French pirate Francois de Clere who had a wooden leg and lived here with his band of men, ransacking passing Spanish ships. On our northern sojourn, we stay within 20 minutes reach of Rodney Bay bright lights. But Trouya Pointe peninsula is as quiet as night. Here, our hotel, Cest La Vie provides a pretty, gingerbread-house-style villa home, set in abundant gardens with a series of pools. From here, a narrow trail leads down toa deserted beach, Nature might rule in the south, but with alittle esearch, you ean find your northern idyll too. > Sianage, Gros Islet: coconut seller Pigeon land ratgeotrvellercoak | National Geographic Traveller 96ST LUCIA ESSENTIALS St Lucia GETTING THERE British Airways and Virgin Atlantic fly from Gatwick tot Lucia. ba.com virgin-atlanticcom ‘Average flight time: sh3om. GETTING AROUND ‘The island is only 27 miles north tosouth and 14 miles east to west, s0 a hire ear or prearranged taxi isthe best option. WHEN TOGO ‘The best time to November-May, with temperatures around 27C, asitcan be very hot and. wet from June-October. NEEDTOKNOW Currency: Eastern Caribbean Dollar (ECD). £1=4.258CD. Health: Wear repellant to lower the risk of infection, from mosquito-born disease chikungunya, International dial code: +1. Time: GMT -4, PLACES MENTIONED ‘Anse Chastanet Resort ‘St Lucia: From $330 (£210) a night in a standard room, based ‘on two people sharing, ‘ansechastanet.com Jade Mountain Resort: From $1,275 (£775), staying in a Sky Sanctuary room, based on two people sharing. Rates are subject to 8% tax and 10% service charge. Jjademountain.com ‘Sugar Beach: From $8405 (£258) excluding 20% tax and service charge, room only. vieeroyhotelsandresorts, com/sugarbeach Crest a Vie: From $400 (£255) a night, based on two adults sharing, BEB, including return airport transfers and use of the Premier Concierge service. villacestlavie.com s Hummingbird Restaurant: hummingbird Beachresort.com Jambe de Bois: I 001 758 452 0921. ‘Tree to Bar Experience at the Rabot Estate by Hotel Chocolat: Guided walk around the Rabot Estate, From $88 (£56). hotelchocolat.com MOREINFO atlucia.org HowToport east ear nights at Anse Chastanet From £295 per person seer ae Superior Hillside Room, ncdng eee breakfast and dinner, i ceeteeeel ikevon the Milt. Bird Senetuary Tri and adolphin- and ete tane eae tip Aberastney the saepasag ol z arene ete A Tnncosts from £1895. GAR artneret Ete suCMfo Teh, fm twosbaring an oseieeres ee eee Be neeew erence osivat dade Mountain Resort fom £3640 per pernon based on two Sharing Star Sanctuary Taclas return Brith Airways flights via fae Gatwick and return private Lue {raat Ofer al or eat travel 1 July-30 September ‘ Soh ooersoa 0 7 suusteATON Lunt aROOKES Rarycrstrescrs “ee aie 0. National GeographicTraveller | April 2015‘Al Bustan Polace. P.O. 8 www. ritzcarlton.com/albustanpalaceEMC Men oo AD eer ra ye Oso tot lulose ene ee ule oceans Leta) Ose MEN rade cnt eS a ouOMAN IT’S BEEN A GOOD MORNING FOR KHALID BIN AHMED. BARELY LUNCHTIME, THE GOAT HERDER BEAMS BROADLY AND CLUTCHES A HANDFUL OF DOG-EARED OMANI BANKNOTES. Behind him, the Nizwa weekend cattle market isin full swing. A swelling erowd of men wearing white dishdasha (traditional full-length robes) jostle for position along.a lage circular track in which farmers parade their offerings. Dust — kicked up by the countless hooves of cows and goats — swirl inthe clammy air, scented sweetly by the nearby date souk. Stones are hurled by prospective buyersas a way of ‘expressing interest. Long arms reach out, with hands intrusively groping the animals to inspect their worth. Offers are shouted over the guttural groans of passing goats. Deals are done. Money exchanged. Some sorry specimens fail 0 sel, but for Khalid isa good day at the market. ‘A civil servant during the week, he's been coming here every Friday for over 20 years, a tradition followed by the ysince the days of his great grandfather. T come after morning prayers,” Khalid explains. “Sometimes I sell just one goat, other days 10. Today it was six. Hamdullah (praise to God)” ‘The shouting and stone throwing is how business has been ‘done in this patch of Oman for generations. “Everyone knows their place,” says guide Salah. "I once saw a baby eamel sell, here for 14,000 rial (£24,000). The farmer went straight to the Toyota showroom and bought a land cruiser.” Before arriving into Nizwa, my trip through northern ‘Oman started in Muscat, the nation’s capital — lugged by ‘mountains and lapped by the Gulf of Oman. I's acity of mosques and museums, where the palaces are gaudy and the markets are heady with burning frankincense ~ the country’s most famous export since S000BC, when camel caravans transported it across Arabia. On the erescent-shaped Corniche, locals gather under the amber hue of late afternoon. Most clutch fishing rods and ‘wait patiently fora eatch. Bobbing in the harbour before them are boats ofall shapes and sizes, from rickety wooden fishing, ‘boats to yachts so luxurious theyd turn Roman Abramovich aan unflattering shade of greet Also among,them isthe Star ofthe Sea: abeantiful 4oft-long, how made of varnished Malaysian teak — and our home for the night. We set sail along the mountainous coastline with per Syed at the helm, ‘Some time later, we moor at one of his favourite spots in all, ‘of Oman: Bandar Al Khiran (Island of Trees). With no other ZA, boats in sight, we have it to ourselves. The water — warm and almost iridescent — brushes against limestone cliffs that soar skywards. We jump off the boat to snorkel with turtles before a night spent sleeping out on deck. Entertainment comes: the form of a passing shoal of sardines, their metallic bodies reflecting brilliantly against the dark water. Numbering in the thousands, they congregate beside the boat, moving as ‘one and constantly morphing, ereatinga surreal spectacle submerged just below the surface. “Tve spent my whole life on the water,” says captain Syed as we peer overboard. “Before, I used this dhow for fishing but the inerease in tourism has changed that. Itwas builtin Sur. Al the best dhows are builtin Sar” MOTHER OF THE DHOW ‘The coastal city of Sur a 93-mile drive south eas, is our next stop. Its skyline ofa dozen domes and slender watchtowers faces out to a sea once pled by boats built here by master craftsmen. In days gone, Sur (meaning ‘Mother of the Dhow’) was. thriving metropolis, the richest city inthe land and the epicentre of Oman’s shipbuilding industry. Constructing sturdy ships that linked the Arabian Peninsular to India and East Africa in the 16th century, it enjoyed a prolonged period of prosperity. Sadly, the good times werent to last and the collapse ofthe slave trade sparked rapid decline. Ina sorry tate of affairs, only one dhow-building yard remains in operation, Not justin Sur, but in the whole of ‘Oman. Beyond the factory's wooden gates and erumbling concrete wall comes the sound ofthe drilling and hammering of metal. Inside, a frenzy of sparks fly from mechanical saws, while others work on the dhow: Elsewhere, others sit hunched ver heavy picees of wood, carving intricate details into the long blocks. Among them is Vasudey, who, like most ofthe others, hails from India. A slight man with cloudy eyes and teeth stained red from a lifetime spent chewing paan (betel leaf and tobaceo), Vasudev has been building dhows here for 29 years. “I miss Indi,” he tells me, “but [feel such pride when we finish a dhow and it takes to the water forthe fist time.” > evious pages: Cattle market. Niwa. From lett: A boy with goat, Dhofar: Mutrah Fish Market Muscat acess eryo ee : $file dea! ca IH Final F So SS aes tattle TATE AOD || Ban WB P ’ Pat 5 i RinOMANaces cer1y Isa lengthy process one that takes the best part of a year. ‘The boats — originally used for hauling spice and slaves but now mainly used to transport fish and tourists — sell for around £200,000 each. ‘Today, about 70,000 people live in Sur —a fraction of the number that populated the city in its heyday. On this particular day, though, the streets are largely quiet. Those ‘who have ventured out in the sweltering heat gather around a wobbly table under a shady tree, Elaborate hand gestures accompany raised voices as the unfolding game of dominoes reaches a critical stage. Players shield their remaining pieces from view before slamming them down one by one and reaching for the pile of diminishing sunflower seeds nearby: Excusing himself from the game, Salem Ali Salum sits to ‘one side and strokes his jet-black moustache, which I suspect :may be dyed. "When we have no work, we meet here to drink tea and play games," he tells me, By work, he means fishing. “Sometimes we fish at night, loking for tuna and sardines. [My father taught me when I was eight years old. Back then, ‘we had one line with a hook but today we have many nets. I'S 1 good job to have” From Sur, we drive south along the coastal road, through region first occupied by the Portuguese in the 1500s, It’s a Journey through lush wadis and small villages inthe foothills ‘of mountains with serrated peaks. One such community ‘cked away near Wadi Tiwi — where limes hang from trees i cen ein esr Ace ‘of 4WDs, each filled with primary school children wa the Omani gs, speeds past (School buses wouldnt sand ‘much of a chance on these steep mountain passes) Each is plastered with the national colours — red for power, green for agriculture and white for peace — as well as pictures of the beloved head of state. Sultan Qaboos has ruled Oman ever since launching a bloodless coup against his father in 1970. In these parts, the ‘-year-old enjoys almost god-like status, with most erediting hhim for bringing prosperity to a country once divided. “He's a good man,” says Salah. “We pay no tax, have free healthcare ‘and most people are given land. Before he eame to power, there were only two schools inthe whole country. He even paid off my uncles bank loan. How many other heads of state do that?” He makes a good point. ‘Unmarried, without children and with no apparent bir, the Sultan's private life is shrouled in secrecy but the ‘rumours and lack of any real information cause little concern, to locals. “As long as he's happy, we're happy,” says Salah coyl. ‘The Sultan's influence extends to almost all aspects of life {in Oman. His bearded face hangs framed on nearly every ‘all from private homes to fastfood restaurants; road: ‘mosques and universities in the capital bear his name; local radio stations broadeast his ‘words of wisdom’ and extracts from past speeches. I listen to one such instalment as we cross a vast desert plain bordered by tall dunes, ahead of three nights camping in the wilderness. DUNERAIDER My last glimpse of civilisation e Bedouin tent-turned coffee shop. Opposite, is the local petrol station: two barrels and a hose sitting under a makeshift shelter, consisting of little more than a piece of plywood and a handwritten sign, reading ‘An Oil Station. We it on rugs and ceushions placed on the floor, as host Thunia — only here (Clockwise from top: Mutrah Fish Markel, Muscat: Bedouincamp, Wahiba Sands: dhow Musandam OMAN visible beneath a bright green headdress —hands us each a tiny eup and pours the coffee (strong, bitter and laced with ‘cardamom, as is the Omani way). Her gold rings and clanging ‘angles sparkle in the sun, ‘Sheand the other 10 members of her family have lived in this lonely spot for more than a decade. “I ean't imagine ‘being inthe city. Too busy,” she tuts. “I like a quiet life, although the summers here in the desert are very extreme” With that, her mobile lights up and she rushes off to takea call, Ieaving Salah and Ito sip coffee, nibble on sticky dates ‘and savour the solitude. Venturing deeper still into the desert, the only other vehicle we pass isa pick-up truck transporting some very precious cargo. Inthe back is camel andits young calf, en route to the nearest cattle market. The drive isa thrilling ‘one, crossing sandy expanses and accelerating up and down ‘dunes taller than houses. Sand pounds on the windscreen ‘but cool-as-a-cucumber Salah takes it all in his stride. “You cean'tbe afraid,” he says, adjusting his shades and spinning ‘the steering wheel sharply as the jeep hurtles down the sandy mountain, “Tve been driving in the desert for years. All you need is a strong heart and good nerves.” Salah was born in Muscat but spends most of his time “Llove the desert, its solitude and nature sa special place.” That much is clear. The unmistakable silhouettes of wild eamels cross the horizon slowly and the red-tinted sand, as soft asi is warm, tingles the soles of my fect whenever we stop to stretch our legs. Our camp for the night is in the basin of a small coastal valley, ringed by dunes in every direction. > THE DRIVE IS A THRILLING ONE, CROSSING SANDY EXPANSES AND ACCELERATING UP AND DOWN DUNES TALLER THAN HOUSES atgrotrnellercak | National Geographic Traveller 107EOE) Look ut at Oman’s panoramic See ao eee eee ence) RKO on constantly expand and Teak koe Renae Riad Ree mE cas Dre ei rer ig ans hy Rolls-Royce Trent 700 ‘engines, you can be sure of Preece noy Neel ae eee eeu ee Corre Soe Sree eng Coenen? Pcs EN ogee ne? ec - d N) cA yams << - ote pe | Celeace certy Tseramble up the tallest, the sand squeaking and shifting “underfoot as my heart races and thighs burn, and Lit on the crest to wat the waves erash against the tall earamel- coloured cliffs. small fishing boat makes its way back to land, the sole occupant waving and holding up his eateh proudly ‘Night falls and with tthe temperature, Weapped up in fleeces, we dine on barbecued lamb and lobster, served, with moutabel, a tasty dip of pureed aubergine, With every mouthful, the stars become brighter and more plentiful. Tien the sand and stare up at the dark abyss, counting the shooting stars that chase each other across the sky. Early the next morning, [emerge blurry eyed from my tent to find fresh tracks from desert foxes erisscrossing the eamp. Dawn is just as entrancing as sunset, turning the dunes a shimmering gold After another two nights under the stars, each indifferent locations equally as magical, it was time fora little hasury. ‘Oman doesn't strike most as a destination offering the five-star treatment, nor does it court deep pockets in quite the same way as neighbouring United Arab Emirates. But at Six Senses Zighy Bay, resort on the remote Musandam Peninsular to the far north, it’ all about indulgence. Closer to Dubai than Muscat, nearly 95 miles away, is a hideaway whose guests have included footballers and royalty The frst sign ofthe decadence that awaits comes before 1 even set sight on the resort, when I'm offered a paragliding arrival. How very James Bond, Sadly, winds are high (and my bravery levels low), so I opt forthe more traditional option: a drive along the spectacular mountain road. The sgravelled track winds its way through the rugged Al Hajar OMAN mountains and downwards towards the resort: cluster of thatched villa nestled beside the sea, surrounded by swaying, palms. Designed to resemble a traditional Oman village, with narrow lanes and sandy side streets, its 83 rooms are made from limestone blocks, sourced from the surrounding, mountains, and dried date palm leaves stitched together. T settle into villa 87 with ease, Like the others, it has a private, opal-tiled pool and a bathtub (almost) big enough fora five-a-side football team. There's an outdoor shower, a pillow menu with 14 options and is scented with burning frankincense. Drifting over the top of the stonewalls isthe distant sound of waves rolling ashore. ‘The beach — its soft sand scattered with beautiful pieces ‘of washed-up coral — doesn't quite compare to those found in the Caribbean or Indian Ocean but its long and blissfully ‘empty, and the perfect antidote to my time in the desert. T spend a couple of heavenly days doing very little. Ieycle around the resort, retreat tothe spa for treatments using, soothing Omani ingredients (igs and dates) and feast on lamb cooked for seven hours in an earthen pit — a cooking ‘method favoured by the nomadic Bedouins for centuries. Ttake a final stroll along the beach, as day turns tonight. An ‘old dhow enters the bay, crossing the threads of pale moonlight that dance across the water's slate surface, On board are smitten couples returning from an unforgettable sunset cruise, sailing the seas in a glorious piece of Omani heritage that dates back centuries, What could be more perfeet? > Fireside at sk atgetrvellercauk | National Geographic Traveller 109ESSENTIALS. Oman GETTING THERE British Airways and Oman Air offer nonstop flights between the UK and Muscat. ba.com Six Senses Zighy Bay is more easily reached from Dubai, a two- hous drive away. British Airways, Qantas and Virgin Atlantic offer flights from Heathrow, while Emirates also flies from a number of UK airports. gantas.com virgin-atlanticcom emirates.com WHEN TOGO Between Novernber and March {s the best time to visit, when the average temperature isa pleasant 25C. The sweltering summers are best avoided. NEEDTOKNOW Visa: Available on arrival at ‘Muscat International Airport for £10. Currency: Omani rial (OMR). £1=OMRO.8. Health: No vaccinations required. International dial code: 00 968, Time difference: GMT 4, {NO National Geographic Traveller | Apri 2015 GULF OF OMAN ‘MOREINFO ‘omantourism.gon.om ‘Oman, by Diana Darke. RRP: £16.99 (Bradt Travel Guides). HowTODOIT Explore Worldwide has an eight- day Oman itinerary from £1,575 per person. The price includes ‘international fights, ground transportation, accommodation and three nights’ desert camping. Pool villas at Six Senses Zighy Bay, from £400 a night. explore.co.uk ‘uusteanon Lc roooGaTEIEE, WILL}, (COE THE HUNGRY FAMILY \ @member vy oo eyes peeping through the Row at the J \ suddenly realised ik was a mother cathe fallen fruits of the many Nature was aiOUT OF THE ORDINARY114, National Geograph Trayller | April 2015Distant Islands From the mid-Atlantic British outpost of St Helena and the sub-Arctic archipelago of the Faroe Islands, to the far-flung Indian Ocean idyll of Rodrigues and the bleak yet wildlife-rich Falklands, we bring you castaway tales that uncover the realities of life on a remote island hideawayces cova: am maces has £ ‘crunched up Gremlin-looking things with punk quifls ‘and long yellow eyebrows: the rockhopper penguins begin to move. Bouncing down the vertical cliffs between ledges, some dive into the roaring surf, others are washed off ledges by big waves seutling them like ninepins. ‘These are crazy litte eriters ‘Sealion Island is «45-minute flight from Stanley, the bijou capital ofthe Falklands. The FIGAS light aireraft touches ‘down on a grass airstrip just north ofthe dunes. I check into the snug, 1-room lodge, grab a packed lunch, and spend the day alone, exploring the cliffs, sandy beaches and tree-less habitats of spongy, pincushion bushes and tussocky grasses. ‘The rockhopper eolony is at the northern end ofthe ‘8km-longiisland near a lonely war memorial to the FMS ‘Sheffield, sunk by an Argentine Exocet in 1982, 30 miles DISTANT ISLANDS. offshore, The lodge manager, Jenny Luxton, later tells me: “War was the turning point inthe Falklands. The conflict breathed a new lease of life into it” ‘There's a royal blue sky overhead. Turkey vultu res and giant petrels with sixfoot wingspans ride the winds, There are over peny ins braying ike donkeys, while Magallenie lion penguins in the Falklands; I listen to gentoo penguins bustle around in comical colonies asf joined at the hip. Jet-black, sealion pups bother their sun-basking parent: and get ‘go away’ slaps Ss (On the west coast’ cliff I eat my sandwiches overlooking a small sealion colony. The jet-black pups bother their sun- basking parents and get go away’ slaps. The waters are also inhabited by oreas that make daring raids on the ‘The cliffs laten to dune-backed white sand beaches, and the largest colony of elephant seals in the world. The immense inert males are strung out ahead of me dozing away after the demands ofthe breeding season. manoeuvre between these giants; one is 12ft long, Some rasp laboured snores, others flare their nostrils and open wide, brown eyes, groaning disapproval at my presence. ‘Rambling from the recesses of their flabby blubbes unflattering belehes. But, I sit transfixed by them until they become stony'outlines under an evening sky of st spangled galaxies. felldandislands.com Words: Mark Stratton How to do it: An eight-day, sland-hopping wildlife odyssey with flights from Santiago (Chile), FIGAS transfer excursions, and full-board accommodation costs £2,095 per person. carandltings.co.uk > osite: Black browed albatross chick, West Faltland From top: Upland geese with chicks, West Fala: tou from the ral of black rowed albatross colony, West Point Island atgrotracllercak | Ns wal Geographic Traveller 177o Africa adagascar Geographic Traveller | April 2015 ‘ou British were in Rodrigues for 150 years, and left nothing,” says Patrique, finishing his drink commands, raising a finger. "Look at Europe. Ever aBexpensive. And in Mauritius? You hi Chinese and Europeans, but they're all separate. It’s touristy too and some places dangerous ~ its shit! Here people are all ‘one, and you ean live for very litle ‘A glass of wine is placed on the table at Bar Bambou. "Youre drunk, Pateique,” says the waiter to his most regular customer “Ym drunk every das,” smiles Patrique. ‘Smallest of the Mascarene islands, Rodrigues lies in the Indian Ocean, a speck of land moored some 350 miles beyond ‘Mauritius. 1's an apparent island idyll and Africa’ most easterly point. In 1968 Britain incorporated the colonial loose end of Rodrigues into a newly independent Mauritius. It took ayear before islanders grudgingly raised the Mauritian flag, ‘As drive towards the island capital of Port Mathurin the road climbs gently, winding through grassy hills and & scattering of one-room farmhouses. Chickens serateh at the roadside and pigs root around. Always visible, the coast is convoluted by coves and bays, and fringed by sandy beaches, beyond some of Rodrigues’ 17 uninhabited islets. Wsearly, after the previous night's cultural exchange with Patrique, and the air is warm and humid. My guide Jean-Paulssay eT soma Later, arrest a police pick-up blocks the road. — a goat. “What's the charge?” I mobile rings incessantly, the conspiratorial Creole conversations an unintended commentary on our progress. Driving on the let — some British affectations endure ~ there’ little traffie save occasional Peugeot buses, kings of the road emblazoned ‘Road Warrior, “The Challenger’ and, worryingly, ‘Drive Me Crazy “Here's the only five-star, all-inclusive,” says Jean-Paul as ‘we pass the high, whitewashed walls of Rodrigues’ Prison, any inmates?" | enquire “One, He goes homeat the wkend ater, a police pick-up blocks the road. Two officers suai su arate“a po winrar Ta “Criminal damage,” says Jean-Paul. "Eating someon garden,” Further on more police are directing trafic "Many young people join the police,” says Jean-Paul “Why? Task. "Is there a goat erimewave?” "No. I's the only job going” Jean-Paut's phone rings age taking the eall and lapsing int intense Creole whispers. “Ah, that gil She loves me too much, But what ean Ido? My wife, my family.” ‘Historially, Rodrigues’ women have outnumbered the men, and despite entreaties from the Catholic Church, men frequently took unofficial second wives. Jean-Paul appears to maintain the tradition “Dama this mobile” he says, ask. “Criminal d DISTANT ISLANDS. Two officers are making | an mage In Port Mathurin the weekly supply ship from Mauritius is indock. The Saturday market sees piles of potatoes, ackfruit, and coconuts laboured over by young men, while neatly stacked {irs of honey, chutney and fierve-looking chillies are guarded by similarly flere grande dames, Beneath a metal-roofed shed, a distinguished elderiy man sits by a table of husked eoconts. Pierre Louis Leratz is 90 years old and a former sergeant major inthe British Army. “Lprefer independence from Mauritius,” he declares slowiy “Lwas very satisfied with the British, Now its no good.” His sentiment i reflected in the island polities, andthe economic uunreality ofa state possessing just 40,000 citizens, which has translated independence into a grumbling autonomy, Back atthe ear I recount my meeting in the market, “Nh, Leratz.." says Jean-Paul, “We ae different. H ‘one ig family” His mobile phone rings again, He may have a point, couriem-rodrigues.mu Words: Nick Redmayne re, is How to do it: Rainbow Tours offers five-nights’ half-board in Rodrigues and two nights’ B&B in Mauritius, from £2,155 per person, including flights, ainboxotours.coauk > From lett: Opening un shop, Port Mathurn: walking on Graviers Beach: sling eked peppers atgeotracllr ok | Nan ig TET justa Peace Haven a a ae Tel: +230 83 20 866/7 Fax: +230 83 20 174 Rodrigues Tourism Office E-mail: info.rodrigues@intnet.mu Bue de fa Solidarité, Port Mathurin Website : www.rodrigues-tourism.mu Rodrigues Island Facebook : Office du Tourisme de Rodriguesg Farr AREAS TL Eystu ‘Svinoy Streymoy ; Végar Faroe. Islands Sudurdy here are surely few better ways to get your heart racing than taking a walk on the wild slopes of the Faroe Islands. This sub-Arotic archipelago’ 18 islands are s0 uneven, it's a minor miracle a spot was found to build any kind of airport The voleanic islands are small enough that most hikes ean be done ina day, but even an hour's walkin any direction will invariably involve a calf-busting ascent and a dizzying view from a mountain top. Nowhere in the Farves is more than three miles from the sea, and although the highest peak. PS ULE Sec) Slettaratindur may top out at a modest 2,897, there are dozens of trails that climb abruptly from sea level ‘On the western island of Mykines, I hike out of the tiny solitary settlement on the two-mile trail to the lighthouse at the island's western tip. My guide is Michael Davidsen, a rotited fisherman, Despite his advancing years, Michael makes light work ofthe steep path, chatting as he walks. During the war years around 170 people lived in 40 houses, but novr the remaining population of nine occupies just five ‘While good footwear is important, high-quality waterproof are essential, Despite starting our two-hour walk in sunshine we manage to get soaked, then dry offas we watch hundreds ‘of puffins lying clumsily around the eliff tops, only to get soaked again before we find shelter and hot soup in the solitary cafe back inthe village. Its a typical Faroese day (On Eysturoy, the second largest of the islands, I stop forthe night in the only guesthouse in the remote village of Gog with its modest population of 49. Cliff ise steeply on both sides ofits natural harbour. I set off up the hillside and for 40 rinites I climb, briskly at frst and puffing and panting by the time I each what appears to be halfway. Kittiwakes swoop averhead as the path clings ever closer tothe daunting cliff ‘edge, while puffins — which dominate the rock faces furiously flap their tiny wings. But itis the Faroese national bird, the oystercatcher, with its long, orange beak and distinctive, black-and-white body, that rules the lush interior. One passes overhead, circling twice and chirping loudly before landing back at its nest. I walk on, and the bird flies by again, this time alittle lower. By the third sortie I get the message and retreat, avoiding potential dive-bomb attack. Ita small reminder that humans are a long way down in this pecking ‘order visitfaroeislands.com Words: Andy Jaros: How to do it: Sunvi four-night Faroe Islands Activity Tour (lights from. Edinburgh, from £1,295 per person. sunvil.co.uk covery offers an all-inclusive satgeotravellercok | NDISTANT ISLANDS. eet at St Hel cut to the shops. why not? Later, I ascend a 700-stepped elena stone stairway called Jacob's Ladder to watch RMS St Felena steam offto Ascension Island. Adios outside world, ‘My stay is atthe 18th-century Wellington House where Napoleon's nemesis, the fon Duke, stayed some years before e-St Helena drenched ins history that seems like ce centuries of turbulent false dawns in the local’ DNA: garrisoned soldiers, imprisoned Boers, forced Chinese labourers, African slaves and privateers st night, Isiton James Bay’s seawall fending off ; St Helena glutinous gulls eating takeaway tuna fishcakes (the island's tnd make finds with the gregario .% tickaames. I met p with Polar Bear oe eventag 5 Longwood © daviskinned.“1think my nickname’ ion’ he laughs. MMyvweek disappears with indecent haste St Helena’ facade of austere elifs may possess the jie de vivre of Dartmoor Prison ina thunderstorm, yet tmasks the interior’ fabulous fecundity: not east anu coffee Napoleon appa facing patho tna Peak losin foliage nnd mist. Another day «boat takes se searching for humpback whales nt theyte ontabone by a pod of 400 dolphins suring ike synchronised swimmers. ut ts Napoleons exile that best eaptures St Helena fer four days ploughingthe Alanie St Helena __Sprightlyseptuagenarian,Robert"Water Ral Peters, takes A pears. Mylegs are stit-erazy despite zilion laps meto Longwood House where Napoleon lived under house tround deck and Tm experiencing GGjhva. Napoleon arrest. Onli, its co, Yet nse, mycin pices with Jocals known by quirky Bonaparte, Britains pain in the derriére, was exiled to St’ his presence: his great coat laid out on an original chaise- Helena in 1815 after his defeat at Waterloo. The instant he longue; the copper bath into which he latterly sank into saw St Helena, he loathed it. depression; framed images of not tonight’ Josephine. Fastforward 200 years and I'm getting his angst. The RMS Nineteen years after is death in 1821, Napoleon's remains ‘St Helena, the last Royal Mail passenger ship operating were removed to Paris fora hero's burial. They say his exhumed. ‘weekly, delivers me1,181 miles west of Africa from Cape Town cadaver was near-perfectly preserved — it seems holding ‘to a brooding voleanic lamp little bigger than the Isle of back time isa speciality ofthis engaging little outpost Wight. It's obscured by an unweleoming drizzle. sthelenatourism.com Words: Mark Stratton Little Britain, The teeny-weeny capital, Jamestown, isa right royal throwback to Blighty, circa 1950. charms with How te do it: Napoleon Bicentennial to St Helena, a 24-night, its blooming jacarandas, Geo tered allinclasive package, departing 20 October, including age-defying jalo ligt licence _full-board and excursions, from £7,985 per person. plates. There’ a tiny prison whose twoinmates are allowed —_islandholidays.co.uk mace LEWATOUNSUOFTCE MLUSTRNONS EER UTTLEORD wl Geograpie Traveller | Apil2018WI | Falkland Islands TO BOARDIN PICTURES MONTENEGRO Atale of two fortified seaside towns: the crumbling port of Kotor, rich with Montenegro's maritime past, and the boisterous Budva Riviera, which celebrates its future WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS: Lola Akinmade-Akerstrém 124 National Geographic Traveller | Apil2015MONTENEGRO CAPTIVATING KOTOR Hidden away within a sparkling bay, Kotor's classic charm lies in its cobblestone alleyways, hidden comers and resident cats splayed out in the sun. Crumbling Venetian fortifications set against a mountainous backdrop bear testament to this UNESCO World Heritage Site's maritime history. >MONTENEGRO BYLANDORSEA When summer rolls around, Kotor's main Square of Arms springs to life under sprawling café umbrellas and bakeries selling fresh bunsas well as Montenegrin favourites, such as flaky, meat-filled burek pastries and jam filled krofne doughnuts. Meanwhile, vacationing yachts dock in the bay's emerald waters just outside the city walls. >by eee ae PEO er ASE EEe Fax: + 382 33/402-550 ees) Sm RN) yet different, and attracts Ne NOS Nee) Mediteranska 2,85310 Budva Phone:-+ 362 33 441 000 ec Cenc eine) Ee at reteMONTENEGRO BUBBLY BUDVA The quintessential Balkan beach party town, locals and visitors alike bask on Slovenska beach before buzzing offto enjoy seafood dining and carnivalesque nightlife in theSth-century Old Town — one of Europe's oldest settlements. > aatgcotrvellrcotk | National Geographic Traveller 181MONTENEGRO MARITIME MUST-GO ‘The seaside promenade within the Budva Rivierais lined with restaurants selling fresh seafood caught daily from the waters of the Adriatic, ice-cream vendors churning out fresh gelato, and is home to Budva Marina, where tiny fishing vessels vie for attention with giant luxury yachts.yf q rie. BAY MONTENEGRO LIFE AS IT SHOULD BE Montenegro: 27km of unspoilt Adriatic coastline, 250 sunny days a year, 105 minutes’ fight from Zurich, two UNESCO World Heritage Sites - one hot new spot for the astute and the adventurous alike, with favourable yacht and tax laws and extensive ‘opportunity for activity and adventure, Luitica Bays 1700 acres of rolling hills, olive groves and beautiful beaches in south-western Montenegro, over 1.500 studio, one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments, townhouses and villas, 4% of the land left untouched, wholes of seaside gol, 35km of coastline, two fully serviced marinas, one leading developer, Orascom Development, and a burgeoning, bustling Adriatic ‘community, already well under way. info@lusticabay.com +382 77 200 100 lusticabay.com Lustica Development AD Tivat, 85323 Radovici, MontenegroCITY LIFE PARIS ‘Tum your passion for Paris into an everlasting love affair by exploring its quirky attractions, froma garden nightclub toa subterranean necropolis and the world's biggest hot air balloon WORDS: Emma Thompson e ead the‘T-shirts. Henry wrote love songs eulogising ‘gay Paree’ Visiting the French eapital can feel like aacliche before you've even bought your frst baguette, And yet, she — Parisis oh-so assuredly female — never fails to seduce hhave no problem falling for Mon hither smile in the Louvre, sealing the lace-ike Eiffel Tower, and looking for hunchbacks in Notre Dame Cathedral, But how do returning travellers prolong the passion? All romantics know that true amour comes from discovering the quirks; that its the ‘oddities that add character and make for a ove affair. With this in mind, snake ay, now and then, from the central River Seine and explore the outer arrondissements. Get up high in a hot air balloon (more on that below), hang out in a garden explore beneath t bohemian afternoon si a pavement cafe, glass of ‘wine in hand, watching the fray: Put down the city map and just wander — as Vietor Huy writes in Les Misérables stroll is Parisian.” > “Toerrishuman, to atgotrnellrcnsk | Nat raphic Traveller 135PARIS Sights Explore the city from the bottom up, starting with a macabre tour beneath its frnous boulevards. On Avene du Colonet Henri Rek-Tanguy roundabout tsa benigiriooking darkegreen hut conceals the gateway to Les Catacombes de Paris ~ the works Ingest underground necropolis home to six milion fouls and alot of skulls, For10 centuries, Pasian were buried the Cinitioe don Innocents, which once stod in Les Halles district, but when it became overcrowded and started to spread disease a solution had tobe found. King Louis XVI decided to make tse ofthe 186 miles of tunnels that had been «qarried for Ltetin limestone (Pars stone’) since Roman times and reinterred the bodies here from 1786-1859. Visitors have been cocig to gawk athe creepy eoridrs of bones since 187 ‘When the Catacombs were d med full, new cemeteries were created on the outskicts| ‘of town. One of those was Cimetitre du Pére Lachaise — named after the confessor of King Louis XIV — in the 12th arrondissement. ‘Osear Wilde once sad: “When good Americans die, they go to Paris” — and, although he’s he did just that. The writer and poet is buried in the cemetery, along with a veritable roll call ofthe great, good and very famous, including Jim Morrison, ofthe Doors, Edith Piaf, Mole, Chopin, and Gertrude Ste to namea few. English-language tours are available to visitors and they offer fascinating insights. Italso happens to be the city’s biggest park, Ona sunny day, bringa book, pick a bench, and soak up the peace and quiet. Alternatively, have a wander and maybe pick out your plot: a 10-year lease costs €785 (£620) — just ensure you meet your maker ‘on Parisian sil ‘Neat, escape the hustle and bustle ofthe streets and take to the sky. Forget the long {queues to climb the Eiffel Tower. Instead, take the Métro to Pare André Citroén and ride the world’s largest hot air balloon. Open daily, it rises almost 500ft above the capital ‘ona fixed line, allowing you to take envy- Inducing aerial photos. If windy weather puts paid to your airborne adventure, then head instead to the reinvented Berges de Seine quayside between Pont Royal land Pont d’Alma, Ideal for families, its a quirky terrace of tarmac with activity hubs: from tables painted with ehessboards and sound showers enabling you to log in via Bluetooth and play your tunes to strangers — to a'garden nightclub? ‘Gn realty, a shipping container designed for chilling out inside; its walls lined with trailing plants) and kid-size tipi that can be hired out for picnics. Finally, try to mal time to vist the newly reopened Musée Picasso Paris. It houses the largest collection of his works in the world, including his own hoard of art with pieces by Matisse and Céeanne. Previous page: Notre Dame Cathedral Below: Catacombs Opposite, clockwise from top et: Patisserie, Ruedes Francs Bourgeoss. Marais: Mademoiselle Bambu; Cimetiore du Pere Lachaise On Avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy roundabout sits benign-looking hut. It conceals the gateway to Les Catacombes de Paris — the world’s largest underground necropolis; home to six million souls and alot of skulls Shopping Honoré de Balzac, the French noveli wrote: "Whoever does not visit Paris regulaely will never really be elegant” And ladies, let's face it, even the most confident of us erumble at the sight of Paris’ long-legged, nymph- ‘waisted women. But the good news is that we ‘can steal their eifortless style. The designs of Parisian fashion heavyweight Isabel Marant have been over-worn, and locals are turning instead tothe casycashmeres and rock'n'roll designs of Zadig & Voltaire, whose flagship store ison 35 Avenue des Champs-Elysées Ifthe price tags here make you winee, the brand’ outlet store, on 22 Rue du Bourg Tibourg, i great for ceteprice garments Just down the oad is arty, multi-brand concept store Le 66, at — you guessed it number 66.The racks here are filled with Vintage and designer clothing. Alternatively, fashionistas who favour ethieal clothing but don't want to compromise on style should head to Mademoiselle Bambi, on 19 Rue La Viewille, for Fairtrade collection that’ trés chic. "To replicate the androgynous lok, make a beeline for MMB, asemi-affordable offshoot > NAGE: ADM BANE AMA THOUPSO GETTYOpposite: Marché des Enfants Rouges Below: Bar Les Heures, Prince de Galles label of Maison Martin Margiela, which is also famed for its timeless pieces of jewellery. Alternatively, if you prefer having everything. "under one roof, travel tothe brand-new Beaugrenelle shopping centre, a trio of malls located in the 13th arrondissement. According to young local, Margaux Lindé, Paris on a Sunday can seem like “une ville de fantomes” Ca city of ghosts), Age-old religious regulations dictate that stores should remain closed, but these rules are being relaxed. ‘Margaux recommends travellers stick to the hyper-trendy Le Marais and Montmartre districts for all-day shopping, In the latter, look ‘ut for new concept store Lekker, selling vintage designer rags and jewels Eats With sights seen and shopping bags cutting into your palms, you'll no doubt be famished. One ‘of my favourite spots to rub shoulders with the locals is the Marché des Enfants Rouges, on Rue de Bretagne, a lunchtime. This covered market hhas been running since 1615 and scattered among the stands selling fruit, fish and cured ‘hams are steaming open kitchens doling out bargain terracotta bowifuls of Morocean stew, plates ofelam-bejewelled pasta, and savoury cerépes oozing cheese. For more refined fare, book a table at La Gare, ‘hich once upon a time served as the Passy La Muette Métro station. Transformed into an elegant restaurant with an outdoor terrace, its gourmet menu is constantly changing: ‘when I visited, it featured king crab with egg ‘mimosa asa starter, a classi sole meunire, and gorgeous homemade almond-mik ice eream for dessert. The lst of fine French wines is concise, ‘but well chosen, and if all that doesn’t have you swooning, the large Belle Epoque dining oom, with reconstructed Loni columns and watercolour murals, will. Quick tip: is kinder ‘on the wallet to vist at Innehtimes, when three courses costs €29 (£22) PARIS Also smart, and open for just a year, is Lazare Paris situated inside Gare Saint-Lazate. Itwas ‘named Best Brasserie of 2014 by Guide Pudlo Paris, thanks to its faultless menu of good, honest French food, designed by three-Michein- star chef Eric Frechon. Td opt for the €19 (£15) plat du jour (dish ofthe day’. Véronique Poteet, from the Paris tourist board, recommends trying “the ‘istronomy" trend — a savvy mix of bistro spirit and ‘gastronomy". Two kitchens leading the way ave the rustic Buvette, offering gourmet tartines (open sandwiches) and French classes such as ‘coq attvin, and Saturne, whose almost-clinical interior puts full focus on the food, which is prepared from artisanal, organic products. Nightlife ‘Time to indulge in the great Parisian tradition of the apéritif. You could watch the sunset over the Seine from the deck of brand-new Rosa Bonheur ‘barge moored on Quai dOrsay that's part of the redeveloped Berges de Seine. ‘Overnight, it became te hotspot to head to; cither for conversation over drinks and tapas or ‘good old boogie come nightfall, Boasting an equally impressive river view is the terrace at newcomer Faust. Housed in the restored boathouses of the Royal Guard under Pont Alexander II, its turn-of-the-century interior takes you back to the Patis of old (the ‘oceasional live music acts are a bons). In complete contrast isthe gilded art deco interior of Les Heures bar inside the five-star Prince de Galles hotel. Gleaming after full renovation, itserves a swish selection of grand ‘eru wines, cocktails, and Champagnes. If you'd prefer something off the beaten track, Spotted by Locals blogger Tamara Mesat recommends LArt Brut Bistro, at 78 Rue ‘Quincampoix, asthe ideal hangout to indulge yourinner artist. Its bar-cum-art gallery, featuring paintings, photographs and sculptures produced by little-known local talent. She describes it as “cozy, inspiring and human — with a menu starring Balkan plum brandy and Montenegrin beet!” In the same vein are Sunday nights at low-key ‘Le Cinguante, on Rue de Lanery. Local guitarist Marcello pitches up at Spm and hands out copies of song sheets containing the lyrics to numerous French classics, from Jacques Brel to Serge Gainsbourg, as well as a few English ditties. The ‘crowd shouts out their selection, he plays, and the whole bar eroons along, cheap beer in hand. But if you're after a true classic, head to La Java — Paris's oldest nightelub — i third arrondissement. Open since 192: underground and unpretentious vent the back of an art deco shopping arcade, saw the likes of Edith Piaf and Django Reinhardt perform in their early days. I's best to arrive around 9pm when there's usually live jazz, swing ‘music, ora comedian on stage, and then slink away before the clock strikes midnight and the clubbers arrive. > sur Seine atgeotrvellrcauk | Natlonal Geographic Traveller 139PARIS ‘Time to flop into bed. Three-star boutique Legend Hotel, punches well above its weight, with thoughtful extras such as on-loan, ‘umbrellas, an honesty cocktail bar, welcome macaroons, in-room massages and reflexology, as well as hand-delivered hampers for the peckish, It's also the first hotel in France to use ‘Tempur mattresses in all its high-design rooms. ‘New, conceptual Hétel Féicien — in the fashionable 16th arrondissement — is causing a stir. Created by French clothing designer Olivier Lapidus, each floor has a theme, from the Black ‘oor to the Sky Floor. Quirky design elements include several of his sketches engraved into glass inthe breakfast room and, in some of the rooms, slowing optical-fbre curtains. The two suites ‘each have a private staircase leadingtoa rooftop ‘garden with a whirlpool bath and tip-top views. ‘The line of birch trees opposite reception sets the tone forthe eco-friendly, family-owned four- star Hotel Chavanel. ll its vibrant rooms are decorated with recycled materials and locally sourced linens; the bathroom products are eco- friendly and the breakfast organic. Last but not least is Hotel 123 Sebastopol Nominated for a 2014 World Luxury Hotel Award, its dedicated to the art of cinema, with ‘each floor named after a screenwriter, producer, or film star, and its light-hearted pop art-style rooms are each decorated individually. Perks include a mixologist serving cocktails named after films (naturally), a top-of-the-range gym with the option of yoga and Pilates classes, and a ‘basement playroom for children. 222% a Madeleine dr On ‘St Germain” 140 National Geographic Traveller | April 2015 Gare De® Mast +, Belleville geht = a Marals Preasso : . ESSENTIALS: Paris GETTING THERE rostar runs upto2dreet Ahly service om St Pancras International to Gare du Nar, wrastarcom France, Bish Airways, Cy Jel Easy, Fie ard et2.cam al fiytoPars am the Uk. aiancecauk bacom cityjetcom tasjetcom fybe.com jet2com Average ight time: 120m. GETTING AROUND Paris 5yearold Neto the fastest ayo travel arourd town. Forocasonal journeys single Teco cost €1.70 (813) For frequent se, buy aParisViste travel card aval for one tu, threo five consecutive daysin zones -30¢35. A two-day zones 1-3acutpas. for example, costs 1940 (15:3), Youcanuse creditcard torent bike fromthe Vl stations dated arcund tw; aone dy ichet casts €1.70 (81.26) vel poristr ‘heres asoasalt sevice fect carhir scheme called Autti Tis shouldbe alas resort they getstuckin trac andrackup ute abil. WHENT0GO_ Legend hastthat springtime 'sthebes tmeto vist (wth temperatures round 5200) bt summer — when most of Paris flees to Souther rance—is much (queer wth otsofestials, although hotels ar pricier Rates opin aturn when itis superb fo photography wiethe short ry days winter mean (queues andltsof Christmas cheer. NEEDTO KNOW (Currency: Fur (€)$1=€126. International da code: 00 331 Time diflernce: MT +. sigHTS LesCatacombes de Pari. catacombes prs ‘NcroRomantques. Guided tous cf Pere Lachaise st 2 Shs and cost €23 (28) er person, necro romantiques.com Blonde Paris. baflondepariscom Bergsde Sines eserges pars fr Muse PicassoPars museepicassoparistr SHOPPING Beaugrenee. beaurenelpariscom 066.6 fr Lele eter Mademisel Gants, madenoiselebambucam Maison Martin Margiela, aisormtinmargil.com Taig Vota. zadigelsotive com EATS Burtt. ovebuvete com Gare, restarantgare.com Lazare Pats. lazare-parisfr Marché des Enfants Rouges. marchedesenantsaugest.com Satu. ature paris NIGHTLIFE (het rt isto artist fr Faust usta Lada lajeratr LeCinquante. £00 33142023683. Prine de Gales. inedegllespariscom Rosa Bonheur sr Seine. lesberges pars pce rosa. beonteur STAYS Hetl123 Sobastpo le23sebastopolcom Hotel Ghavanel atltavane com HételFdicen. hteeicinpars com Legend Hotel legendotelparis com MOREINFO parsinfcom DK enitess Pocket Mapand (ui Prs, RP. £4.98, HowToDorr (restate twoniht at the fourstar Hoel Si 888, and retuenEuostatickts rom £388 er person Alternative, he same hot with return Fj ights rom Manchester costs from 421 per person crestaholiaysenak ‘uusteanon: nn NERDANVERS KCONE FACEBOOK.COM/LEMOULINROUGEOFFICIEL142. National Geographic Traveller CITY LIFE FLORENCE ‘The heart of the Renaissance and former capital of Italy isrich in history,art and culture, yet continues to evolve its enduring appeal WORDS: Donald Strachan {Us 150 years since Florence became Italy capital. The limelight lasted just five years, until Rome took over in 1871, but Tuscany’ best-loved city has rarely felt so relevant. Since the Grand Tour, visitors have come to walk the same flagstones as Michelangelo, Leonardo, Dante and Galileo. Here, a ragged medieval lane; there, a rusticated Renaissance palazzo ‘gazes out over the church where Mediei rulers ‘worshipped. Snapshots are everywhere, But Florence doesn't just live in the past."The city has a daring new modernist concert hal, the ‘Teatro dell Opera, on the fringe ofthe Cascine, its long-neglected and mid-revamp riverside park. Its former mayor, Matteo Renzi is now Italy's youngest prime minister. (Or at least, he ‘was at the time of writing... Italy once changed PM eight times in a decade) “There are new restaurant openings on every return visit, Not jst for traditional Tusean food, ‘such as the seared T-bone bisteecafirentina, but Florentine tapas, sushi bars, vegetarian and vegan restaurants, you name it. Nightlife in the centre is stil largely tourist-oriented, but you ‘only need to eross the Arno to mix it with the locals. San Niccold and San Frediano are buzzing from aperitivo hour until late. The city’s tightly packed, so nowhere’ far from anywhere ‘Old stalwarts have received a makeover, to. At the Uffizi, new rooms showease the art of Apwil2015 Velizquer, Goya, Caravaggio and Dutch Od Masters. And 2015 is set to end with the November re-opening ofthe Museo dell Opera del Duomo or cathedral museum. Ithas been expanded to showease the restored Gates of| Paradise, Michelangelo’ Piet sculpture, and a whole lot more. Florence is blooming, ‘So far so frantic. I's not acity in which to waste time, such are its cultural check boxes. But there's also something to be said for allowing ‘yourself to just ‘be’ in this open-air museum: explore its woodsmoke-seented backstreets and smaller, atmospheric squares. Give yourself the ‘time, for example, to amble around the tight, residential lanes of the Oltrarno district the ‘other side of the Arno River’ that form around the pretty little Santo Spirito basilica. Stop to peer into tiny artisans’ workshops, where ticate Ieatherwork, gold leaf and icon painting ‘goes painstakingly on, ast always has. ‘And ifyou really want to get the lowdown on what’ happening, from local polities to the latest bar opening, hang out with the lampredotto street vendors whose food trucks are a locals-only landmark outside the Mereato Centrale. You may not take to their medieval ‘poor food’ panini, packed with slices of tripe, but fora true Florentine experience, it beats queuing for hours to see Botticelli Birth of Venus atthe Ufzzi. >Ome ed[gq] See&do iia Gallery: There's nowhere better on Earth to see Renaissance painting. All the big hitters are here, from Giotto through Lipp! and Leonardo to Michelangelo, Raphael, Titian and beyond. Allow three hours todo it justice Pre-bookingis essential. firenzemuset.it Duomo: The giant ochre dome of Florence's ‘cathedrals one of Europe's most iconic sights, ‘anarchitectural marvel designed and built by Filippo Brunellesch between 1418 and 1434. You'l need ahead for heights to climb it, and a stomach for the queues. lgrandemuseodelduamo it ‘MuseodelNovecento: This now museum is set ‘around a 1300s cloister — so far, so Florentine. But the collection inside isa welcome 20th century breeze. Exhibits are arranged backwards, rom the 1990s through Futurism to the turner the century, plus top-loor screening room. museonovecento.it GueeiMtusee: Guccio Gucci, the founder of a fashion empire, was originally inspired by his time working asa lift attendant in London's Savoy Hotel His larger-than-life designs, though, scream Florence — ke the 1979 Gueei Cadillac Seville on the ground floor. guccimuseo.com Ponte Vecchior This iconic 12th-century bridge \was once the sole crossing point over the River Arno, and the only bridge not destroyed during the Second World War. See the bust of goldsmith elni and be warned: gelato's pricey near here. Palazzo Vecchior Take the Secret Passages tour {and see first hand the paranoia of living through the tumultuous lath to 18th centuries. Step into the private alchemy room of Francesco de Medic’s Studiolo vi a painting in a wall that turns to.open into a rectangular room with a vaulted {gid ceiling. Behind another painting is a secret stairway. tickets.uffzi.com/tour-secret passages palazzo-veechio.asp Santo Spizte: Labelled the boring church for being so plain’ in comparison tothe rest of Florence's architecture, the Baslca di Santa Maria del Santo Spirto, in the Oltrarno quarter. {famed for housing a 1493 Michaelangelo wooden crucifix. basiicasantospintoit Dante's tour The famous poet lived, loved and breathed in medieval Florence. Vist the so-called Casa di Dante (Dante's house), a small museum filed with copies of The Divine Comedy, or the Church of Santa Margherita del Cerchi where he fallin love with Beatrice. museocasadidanteit Did you know? Essayist Mary McCarthy described Piazza della Repubblica as ‘the ugliest [square] in Italy.” A touch OTT, but the vast open space and neoclassical arch jar with the surrounding Renaissance elegance and medieval lanes Geographie Traveller | Apeil2015ces: a taco; Fou seasons Pus rLoRENE Opposite from top: Lampredott tripe van:the Four Seasons Florence ety ‘This page, clockwise trom top Painting the Ponte Vecehioand Armoriver:exterior detail of Duomo Santa Marae Fire pool at Pus Florence youth host! Eat Kitsch: If you want to eat well and cheap, ‘make for apericena — across between aperitiv~o (early evening snacks) and cena (dinner), The sual drilis acold and warm buffet stacked with salads, cured meats, simple pasta dishes and the ‘occasional treat such as marinated anchovies. Buya drink and help yourself. This place. just outside the tourist centre, ples it higher and better than anywherein town for €10 (£7.40), Including a beer or cocktail kitschtirenze.com/kitschbar © MeFist Floor @ Mercato Centrale: Head Upstairs in Florence's covered produce market to sample street food, Italian style. The vast new hall opened in 2014, andis usually buzzing. Pretty ‘much everything Italiano is onsale, including pizza, meat and cheese platters, handmade pasta, southern Italian-style fried treats, and top-notch Tuscan wine, mercatocentraleit {£68} 10 Osteria Personale: This place is the culinary highlight of trendy San Frediano, south ofthe Amo. There's no pasta, just a modular ‘menu of meat. fish and vegetarian dishes that you can combine anyhow, and in any order Yyou lke. o-osteriapersonale it ae Likealocal (FTP Lampredotte: Fora proper Florentine lunch, tuck into lampredotto, the lining of a cow's fourth stomach, stewed with tomato and garlic and served ina rll. There's a good. central tripe vanin Piazza dei Cimatori ‘Number checke Don't be caught out by Florence's eccentricaddresses. Every street has two separate sets of numbers in black and red, and sometimes sutfixed with an‘R'. They trot up and down the street oblivious to eachother, so you might walk past number 4 and 6, then number 2R, then back to number 8, and soon. ‘Wallet Thanks tothe extensive pedestrianisation of recent years, central Florence hasa slightly convoluted one-way system. Cabs can seldom take the direct route, so you'llsave plenty of time and money if you simply pack amap andwalk. I's rarely very far to anywhere, |x| Sleep > pmsmocence:stricty speokng this place just north af the centres ahoste.. but what ahostel. Some hie hotels woul kilfor these amenities, which nce an outdoor swimming pool and sundeck (in summer) and 2 Turkish bath, indoor poo! and gym (winter ony). Best ofthe ensuite rooms ae in anew block, facing a rear courtyard with plenty of space plushostels com /plusflarence {SEE TueStRegis Florence: Once a historic palace designed by Brunelesch who bul the Duomo) it's.an e23y five-minute wak from the Ponte Vecchio, Traditional Renaissance décor sis well with all the mod cons, while the high-ceilinged dining room and balcony restaurant for breakfast are divine. stregsforence.com |s€£ FourSeasonsFlorence: This city resort hotel minutes from Duomo, was once the residence ofthe Medi far. I's actualy two palaces (including its own chapel separated by extensive gardens, within which sits anaward- winning spa. Oh, andararity inthe city: an euldocr pool and heated Jacuzz too. Decadent and indulgent to the extreme, is woth it forone right f youcan. fourseasons.com/orence > atgrotrnellecnsk | National Geographic Traveller 145