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CONTENTS
FEBRUARY 2017

ON THE COVER
30 THE BUSINESS OF TRAVEL
Eighteen inspiring travellers tell
us why you should book a trip
now, more than ever

50 BACK TO ITS ROOTS


After years of molecular
gastronomy, Madrids food scene
makes a U-turn to become the
new capital of homestyle Spanish
cooking, nds Stephen Orr

88 GOLD LIST
There are good hotels and there
are great hotels. And then there
are the hotels we cant help going
back to time and time again. We
name the global properties we
always recommend

100 NATURAL SELECTION


With the opening of a new resort
and the revamping of some island
stalwarts, Peter Browne returns to
the Seychelles to determine if the
most beautiful archipelago in the
Indian Ocean can get any smarter

110 COUNTER CULTURE


In Tokyo, serious food lovers
wouldnt be caught dead sitting
88
Le Sirenuse on the
at a table. Peter Jon Lindberg Amal Coast is one
pulls up a stool at the bar of the properties
to make this years
Gold List

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 11


CONTENTS
FEBRUARY 2017 118
Pack right for
this months
destinations

47
Explore Antarctica
with new cruise
routes and a
revamped hotel

15 EDITORS LETTER 56 WHERE TO STAY


Hotels that innovate, from
16 CONTRIBUTORS virtual golf courses to
holograms in meeting rooms;
18 MASTHEAD exclusive rst looks at Sri
Lankan boutique bolthole KK
22 AGENDA
As Canada celebrates
the 150th anniversary of
Beach and Dubais new kid on
the block Nikki Beach Resort
Dubai; bed-hopping with
72
Apartment shops
its confederation, Mike international fashion illustrator where you can
also stay the night
MacEacheran discovers that Megan Hess; stylish places
the epicentre of this year-long to stay in Australias artsy
bash is its newly made-over hub, Melbourne
capital, Ottawa; the Travel
Connoisseur on blurring the 70 THE DEBATE
lines between business and Would you take a cruise?
leisure; what in the world is Ahmed M. Soliman and
happening this month; classic
American designer Tommy
Hilger on New York hotspots,
Michelle Kuehn state
their case 85
Beauty essentials
for the desert
his travel uniform and why he
loves Indian textiles
72 TRAVEL IN STYLE
Shop and stay: we untangle
the new trend of apartment
28
Around the
34 THE FUTURE OF shops; keep it brief with sleek world with
GETTING THERE leather document holders; Tommy Hilger

MAKE-UP: SHARON DRUGAN; HAIR: ANGEL MONTAGUE SAYERS;


Everything you know about elegant his n hers watches;

VIDEOGRAPHER: DOVYDAS VILIMAS; PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES


exploring the world is about designer Dima Ayad on stylish
to change. We teamed up essentials for a trip to Chicago;
win a four-night stay
with our future-obsessed ties that walk the line between
for two at Milaidhoo
colleagues at Wired to work and play; the ultimate
Island, Maldives
forecast where the travel beauty survival kit for the
industry is headed desert; Mad Men and X-Men
actress January Jones on her 124 EXPERTS
40 WORD OF MOUTH in-ight skincare regime and Which destination is
Global travel news including how she stays in shape ideal for combining
Lake Como rebooted, business and leisure? ON THE COVER
Indonesias newest island 118 GET THE LOOK Photographed by Pankaj
hideaways and photographer How to pack for this months 127 STOCKISTS Anand at Burj Al Arab
Rich McCor, aka Paperboyo, destinations, from Ottawa to Where to shop Jumeirah
Model Natalia at MMG Models
on viewing cities through his the Seychelles
On Natalia Lace jumpsuit
unique lens. Plus, Paris-based 130 ROOM WITH A VIEW by Lana Mueller. Straw hat
fashion designer Isabel Marant 120 WHERE ARE YOU? The William Vale, by Iris & Ink
shares her north Ibiza hit list Enter our contest to Brooklyn, New York

12 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


EDITORS
on just a little more than the
quality of their room service
tartar sauce, but my love for
This is our

LETTER
promise to the hotels remains. Which is why
reader to be its always fun to work on our
an essential
source of
annual Gold List, an index of
honest opinion the best hotels in the world (p

I
and must-have 88) according to our discerning
information. You
can trust Cond
ve loved hotels for as long as I can remember. staff and many expert global
Nast Traveller Checking in, to any hotel anywhere in the contributors, intrepid travellers
to give you the world, has always felt to me like checking out all. Naturally we cant talk
unbiased inside
track, with of regular life. I mean, the breakfast buffet? about every fantastic hotel or we
integrity and That is not an everyday scenario (nor, if you wouldnt have space for anything else in this issue
authority.
value your waistline, should it be). so consider these some of the highlights.
But perhaps what cemented the idea of hotels But what makes for a best hotel? For me,
as special in my head early on was that staying in its a combination of things: a near obsessive
one as a kid usually meant my father was in town. attention to detail, warm yet unobtrusive service,
My parents lived in different countries much thoughtful design and superlative culinary
of my life, and while I spent time in my dads offerings, a denitive sense of place and unique
home, Id look forward to the extra weekends touches, consistency in delivery and a way of
when hed y down to see me. A car would staying relevant. This last point is what sold me
pick my weekend bag and me up and deposit on putting Dubais Burj Al Arab Jumeirah on
us outside a marbled lobby, muzak piping from the cover of this months Gold List issue. In its
unseen speakers. Preternaturally happy staff 16th year, the hotel continued to innovate with
ushered me along carpeted hallways to our room, the opening of the Terrace, a deck featuring
where I would immediately order sh ngers a restaurant and bar as well as a beach club
and tartar sauce and devour them as I opened complete with an innity pool and luxe cabanas. From top left: Lifeguard
for the day at the Burj
the inevitable gifts he came bearing. Id swim And thats not even the innovative part: the deck
EDITOR'S PHOTO: LOU FAY; ADDITIONAL PHOTOS: RHEA SARAN

Al Arab Terrace; the


in the pool, eat dinner with my father and take was constructed in its entirety in Finland and then arabesque corridor leading
bubble baths for as long as I wanted. Sometimes, shipped to Dubai. Talk about staying relevant. to the hotels Talise Spa,
our shoot prep area;
say if he had a business dinner, Id invite a friend Also freshening things up is the Seychelles Belmond Villa San Michele
to stay one night, and wed watch cable TV and (p 100), and Tokyos food trends are nothing in Florence, where I stayed
last year, makes this
make ourselves sick from drinking colas and if not ahead of their time (p 110). Speaking of months Gold List; the
eating room service snacks we werent allowed looking ahead, ip to our Business of Travel Burj Al Arab as viewed
at home. In the morning, wed sneak out early to section to nd out where the future of travel is from the Terrace on a
Dubai winter morning
have breakfast in the dining room by ourselves, headed spoiler alert, it includes robots (p 34).
pretending to be very sophisticated and very old And we talk to business leaders and personalities
(25 at least), ordering eggs over easy with bacon from around the globe who tell us why its
and sausages and home fries and ooh also wafes important now more than ever to continue
and maybe an order of pancakes and charge it exploring the world (p 30).
to the room, would you, my dear? Refresh your perspective.
These days Im a tad more circumspect when
it comes to ordering breakfast, and I rate places RHEA SARAN Editor in Chief

Follow us: @cntravellerme Cond Nast Traveller Middle East @CNT_MiddleEast


FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 15
CONTRIBUTORS

Pamela Wilkes Pankaj Anand


Freelance writer and former Hopping around the world
barrister Wilkes life-long love Julien Capmeil for over 250 days a year, Sharon Drugan
of travel, sparked during her Born in Australia, Capmeil Anand specialises in shooting Specialising in fashion
expat childhood, has evolved grew up surng and skating hotels, portraits, food and editorials, make-up artist
into a passion for family but soon left to pursue interiors for the likes of Drugans work has appeared
travel, involving regular global photography in Paris. His Cond Nast Traveller in India in Grazia Luxury Middle East,
adventures with her children. images have appeared in and the UK, W Hotels and Harpers Bazaar Serbia and
WROTE CNT exclusive: GQ, Cond Nast Traveller, Reliance Industries. Mindfood Style Australia. She
Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Vogue, Porter, Tatler and other PHOTOGRAPHED Cover has also worked with clients
Dubai, p 62 international publications. BASED IN Mumbai and Dubai such as Emirates, Palazzo
BASED IN Dubai PHOTOGRAPHED Natural WHAT WAS THE HIGHLIGHT Versace and Bulgari.
WHAT DID YOU ENJOY MOST selection, p 100 OF SHOOTING AT THE MAKE-UP FOR Cover
ABOUT THE NEW RESORT? BASED IN New York BURJ AL ARAB? BASED IN Dubai
The coastal location of the YOUR FAVOURITE PART An incredible combination DOING THE MAKE-UP FOR
hotel is incredible. I loved OF SHOOTING IN THE of like-minded people from THE COVER SHOOT WAS
watching the surfers and the SEYCHELLES WAS... across the globe working FUN BECAUSE...
wild beauty of the stormy It was an amazingly luxurious together made for a great Doing the cover shoot was an
seas from the hotel. Nikki experience private islands shoot. It was a different absolute delight everything,
Beach has the happiest staff to ourselves, incredible food, perspective to shoot a cover from the fabulous team to the
Ive ever met and the whole wonderful service, helicopters at the Burj Al Arab without mesmerising location at the
atmosphere was so chilled, between locations. The showing its iconic sail shape, Burj Al Arab, was perfect. The
ensuring total relaxation. The people were warm, genuine but the seamless view of make-up look was effortless
food was a highlight. and welcoming. It was such the Arabian Gulf from the and minimalistic and perfectly
HOW WOULD YOU DESIGN an idyllic location, perfect for pool of The Terrace is complemented the location.
YOUR DREAM HOTEL? shooting with beautiful light absolutely stunning. The energy on set amongst
It would denitely be by and pristine beaches. HOW WOULD YOU DESIGN the team was so cohesive, and
the sea and somewhere warm HOW WOULD YOU DESIGN YOUR DREAM HOTEL? when that happens you create
preferably on an island, YOUR DREAM HOTEL? My dream hotel would be magic together.
away from it all, but with It would be a small open-plan completely solar-powered HOW WOULD YOU DESIGN
places nearby to explore. I like hotel made from reclaimed and eco-friendly. Id also YOUR DREAM HOTEL?
small, boutique hotels offering and renewable resources, love to have it built like an As a former cabin crew
that personal touch, with a with clean lines and locally aeroplane, with all the facilities member, Ive had the
quirky personality of their own crafted furnishings, nestled youd expect from a ve-star opportunity to stay in some
and a sense of place. There above a private surf break, property but with the ability of the best hotels around
would need to be a family either on the Pacic coast to y guests anywhere they the world. My own hotel
room for us to stay in many of Mexico or in Brazil. The want to go. would be back home in
hotels dont cater adequately emphasis would be on cuisine Ireland a low-rise boutique
for the family market and healthy, organic meals to spot with a Scandinavian
fantastic food. nourish you after hours on feel. Minimalism, clean lines,
the waves, incorporating awless craftsmanship and
local avours and culinary understated elegance with
techniques. Somewhere you earthy muted tones would
feel so at home that you want complete the dcor.
to return every year.

16 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


DESIGNED FOR THOSE WHO SET THE TREND
Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai, a lifestyle destination now open on Pearl Jumeira. The resort introduces 132 keys
comprising 117 rooms and suites, 15 villas with private pools as well as 63 private residences boasting top-line facilities.
Relaxation and wellness are key elements of the resort where you can enjoy the choice of pools, sundecks or a more
upbeat atmosphere at Tone Gym.

Reserve now and avail 10% discount on best available room rates and a complimentary Personal Training session.

For reservations or more information please contact reservations.dubai@nikkibeachhotels.com


Pearl Jumeira, PO Box 8286, Dubai, United Arab Emirates T: +971 4 376 6000 F: +971 4 376 6333
NIKKIBEACHHOTELDUBAI NBRSDUBAI | NIKKIBEACHHOTELS.COM
Which hotel service is
most essential when
travelling on business?

APP MEDIA GROUP Chairman Emeritus: S.I. Newhouse, Jr.


PO Box 500024, Dubai, UAE Chairman: Charles H. Townsend
Tel: +971 4 444 3000 President & Chief Executive Ofcer: Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr.
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CEO Ali Akawi
In other countries: Cond Nast International
Executive Director Sue Holt
Deputy Managing Director Andrew Wingrove
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A gym with a treadmill Group Commercial Director Joseph Khoury President: Nicholas Coleridge
and free weights. As I Editorial Director Anil Bhoyrul Vice Presidents: Giampaolo Grandi, James Woolhouse,
often eat the wrong food Moritz von Laffert, Elizabeth Schimel
when travelling I always EDITORIAL Chief Digital Ofcer: Wolfgang Blau
Editor in Chief Rhea Saran President, Asia-Pacic: James Woolhouse
make sure to get my gym
Art Director Lou Fay President, New Markets and Editorial Director, Brand Development:
session in rst thing. Deputy Editor Jenny Johnson Karina Dobrotvorskaya
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Pamela Wilkes, Yoojin Hahn, Sharifa Al-Badi, Chloe Bosher, Govind Dhar, President, Cond Nast E-commerce: Franck Zayan
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call. I ask for two
with a 15-minute gap Entertainment, The Scene, Pitchfork
Ammar Riyal
+971 4 444 3506 so I dont miss an
ammar.riyal@itp.com important meeting UK
US Advertising Manager Vogue, House & Garden, Brides, Tatler, The World of Interiors, GQ, Vanity Fair,
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Smile
all
the
stay.

All our hotels are in dreamlike settings, but if we can go the extra step, rest assured that
we have what it takes to surprise you, over and over again, so youll keep wondering whats next?

MAURITIUS RUNION MALDIVES CHINA TURKEY VIETNAM U.A.E


YASISLAND.AE
SLUG

AGENDA
THE TRAVEL CONNOISSEUR  CALENDAR  TOMMY HILFIGER

DARK
HORSE
As Canada celebrates the 150th anniversary of
its confederation, the epicentre of this year-long
bash is its newly made-over capital
Ottawa, nds MIKE MACEACHERAN

22 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


Take a boat trip on
the Rideau Canal
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, ALAMY

FEBRUARY
JANUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 23
O
ttawa has long been a city living in the You may think this opportunistic makeover would
shadows. Vancouver, with its windswept leave the city feeling incomplete, turning it into a gigantic
islands, white-etched peaks and glacial blueprint of cranes and skeletal halls hung in blowy
fjords, is perpetually spotlighted; tarpaulins, but its quite the opposite. If theres anything the
Toronto, the super-charged mini city has learnt to be good at, its getting the day job done.
Manhattan, claims the lions share of For proof of that take a trip on the Rideau Canal, a
star-studded events and festivals. But UNESCO World Heritage Site of locks and waterways that
Ottawa? Considered by some a humdrum government weaves through downtown. In winter, it freezes over to
centre run by boardroom negotiations Justin Trudeaus form the worlds longest skating rink; in summer, boats and
liberal entourage and proud Ontarians argue different, of kayaks tootle along, sometimes all the way to glimmering
course this years birthday celebrations are poised to Lake Ontario, some 200km to the south at the base of
prove the doubters wrong. Niagara, that crashing cataclysmic lady.
Begin a morning stroll around Parliament Hill, on the Before you get that far, of course, Ottawa has plenty more
banks of the Ottawa River, for an overview of the citys sky- to distract you in particular, its thriving foodie scene. There
tickling Gothic-revival architecture and its copper-topped are few better places to sniff out whats happening than at
downtown. From here, youll spy the enchanting Fairmont ByWard Market (001-613-562 3325, byward-market.com), a
Chteau Laurier (doubles from AED 550; 001-613-241 1414, shape-shifting mix of cafs, food retailers, farmers stalls and
fairmont.com/laurier-ottawa), a wrinkly Hogwarts castle rst microbrew pubs. This end of town has long had a history
opened as a railway hotel in 1912. Get an eyeful of the of trade, with the market rst providing supplies to lumber
distinctive Tiffany stained-glass windows and marble staircase camps out in the woods. Those no-frills meatpackers and
inside, then head over the water, across the cantilever grocers have since been replaced by French patisseries, design
Alexandra Bridge, to the Canadian Museum of History boutiques and ne-food emporiums, none more Canadian than
(entry, AED 40; 001-800-555 5621, historymuseum.ca). In the the House of Cheese (cheese party trays from AED 70; 001-613-
midst of a major spruce-up, which will include a landmark 241 4853, thehouseofcheese.ca), where locals stock up on cheese
Canadian History Hall this summer, its a treasure trove of curd for homemade poutine. Nearby, what little tourist scrum
First Nations artefacts. Standouts are Pacic Coast totem there is can be found wolng down leaf-shaped bon bons lled
poles, dug-out canoes and Klondike-era gold-rush goodies. with maple caramel at Stubbe Chocolates (gift boxes from AED
Theres a slew of other, equally worthy facelifts in progress 50; 001-613-241 1040, stubbechocolatesottawa.com), the citys
around the city. The 50-year-old Canada Science and oldest family-run chocolatier.
Technology Museum (001-613-991 3044, cstmuseum.techno- On the markets eastern edge, towering above Dalhousie
science.ca/en) will reopen in November following an AED 222 Street like an impossible Jenga block is the new Andaz
million upgrade, and the rebooted Canadian Museum of Ottawa ByWard Market (doubles from AED 660; 001-613-
Nature (entry, AED 37; 001-613-566 4700, nature.ca ) will be 321 1234, ottawa.andaz.hyatt.com). Its a luxe yet unfussy
ready in time for the biggest party of the year, Canada Day introduction to Canada for the Hyatt offshoot, topped-out by
on July 1, when itll snip the bow on a permanent new gallery Copper Spirits & Sights (cocktails from AED 47), a dimly lit
celebrating the Inuit norths Arctic biodiversity. 16th-oor cocktail bar and rooftop lounge. Here, sundowners
come with edible owers and sugar maple candy, and are
served in birch-smoked glasses.
As night falls, Ottawas restaurants ll with reinvigorated
In the winter, the canal freezes over civil servants and salarymen, as is customary in all
to form the worlds longest skating rink; in government nerve centres. On Elgin Street, near the Lord
Elgin heritage hotel (doubles from AED 550; 001-613-235
summer, boats and kayaks tootle along 3333, lordelginhotel.ca), youll nd the best-dressed kicking
back with a prime reservation at Beckta Dining & Wine
(three-course set menu from AED 190; 001-613-238 7063,
beckta.com). The restaurant specialises in new Canadian
cuisine, with shy ingredients like sockeye salmon and
Fogo Island cod rarely found elsewhere. If you cant get a
table here, try the equally plush Metropolitain Brasserie
Restaurant (seafood platter from AED 100; 001-613-562 1160,
metropolitainbrasserie.com), which specialises in 15 shuckable
varieties of east and west coast Canadian oysters.
Now, if thats not enough to convince the doubters,
then, really, what is?
For more information on events throughout 2017 in Ottawa,
visit ottawatourism.ca

GETTING THERE
Emirates (emirates.com) ies direct to Boston, Qatar Airways
(qatarairways.com) ies direct to Montreal and Etihad Airways
(etihad.com) ies direct to Toronto, from where you can
connect on Air Canada (aircanada.com) to Ottawa

24 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


OTTAWA

Clockwise from top left: Sockeye salmon at


Beckta Dining & Wine; public art; ByWard
Market; Stubbe Chocolates; Metropolitain
Brasserie Restaurant; Canada Museum of
History; Fairmont Chteau Laurier; shoppers
at ByWard Market; Andaz Ottowa ByWard
Market. Opposite: Fun on the Ottawa River

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 25


OPINION

The Travel
Connoisseur
On blurring the lines between
business and leisure

T
he ringtone sounded sharper than
usual as the Travel Connoisseur
rummaged around in the dark trying
to locate the mobile phone lost deep
between his pillows. Its annoyingly bright
screen displayed an unfamiliar number.
Silently cursing the caller, the number and
the early hour, TTC answered to nd it was
a wake-up call from the airline chauffeur
waiting downstairs, who was beginning to
panic that the morning ight to London was
now leaving in less than two hours.
TTC jumped out of bed, wondering if
he was breaking records by getting ready
for a week-long business trip in under
30 minutes. Perhaps his procrastination
stemmed from the fact that travelling for
work, and especially to London, is not his
cup of tea. Business trips, in his view, are a
necessity rather than an indulgence which
might come as a surprise to his CFO who
Things went from bad to worse when a
assumes that TTC does nothing but luxuriate meeting had to be cancelled last-minute because
in the spoils of corporate success.
Going against the tide of popular opinion,
his business partner got walked out from
TTC could never get on with London, for a luxury hotel for wearing designer sneakers
its interminable trafc, complicated airport
terminals and some occasional snobbery.
rather than polished Oxfords
On his last visit, things had gone from bad to
worse when a meeting had to be cancelled the high-octane neighbourhood with its Being friends with the concierge, he nds,
last-minute because his business partner got impressive concentration of art, shopping is always a wise investment, even though
walked out from a luxury hotel for wearing and dining, including his favourite French it can sometimes be an expensive affair. In
designer sneakers rather than polished gourmet store. many international capitals, concierge tips

ILLUSTRATION: GRANT COWAN/EYECANDYILLUSTRATION.COM


Oxfords. Similar to conferencing in Davos, Shunning the offer of yet another business are high and if you see the coveted Clef
TTC knew this next trip to the British capital lunch too many carbs for his slim-cut dOr pin shining on the lapel of the suit, add
would be work, work and nothing but work. silhouette one day, TTC slunk off to another 200 per cent on top of that.
So three days later, it was a weary but relieved explore the Canton Road shops. Here, he When the time came to leave Hong Kong,
traveller who settled in his seat at the front was in his element. An hour later, his wallet there was a sense of dj vu. Once again
of the plane, awaiting lift-off for Hong Kong signicantly lighter, as if it had shifted its heft TTC was in danger of missing his ight as
which, in contrast, remained one of his rm to his carry bags, he approached the main he struggled to t the latest acquisitions into
favourites both for business and pleasure. entrance of the hotel. Before he could enter, the unapologetic wooden frame of his trunk.
Twelve hours later, he checked in at a the concierge hurried toward him, expertly Fortunately his investments had been wise,
landmark hotel right on the edge of Victoria relieving him of the bags and arranging for as the same concierge came to his rescue,
Harbour, with a picture-perfect vista of them to be delivered to his suite in the arranging a sports car rather than a limo, with
Hong Kongs spectacular waterfront. Sitting most discreet manner. a rather more adventurous driver. Added
by the window, TTC admired gleaming How thoughtful! TTC exclaimed to that, the good man reached out to his
ocean liners passing by, wishing he was on Your colleagues are all in the lobby the personal contacts at the airport to whisk
board one of them sipping bubbles rather concierge whispered, with a knowing smile. TTC through the formalities and keep the
than juggling meetings, lunches, dinners and Catch me if you can, TTC laughed jet bridge open a few extra minutes.
occasional nightcaps. Still, TTC made sure to himself as he emerged in the grand As pleasant as his Hong Kong sojourn turned
that his own shore programme included an foyer ready to rejoin the meetings, with out to be, the best part of any work-related
hour or two between meetings to discover no evidence of the afternoons tangent. travel, in TTCs universe, is the return leg.

26 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


Visit the Great Temple
of Ramses II at the CALEN DAR
Abu Simbel Sun
Festival in Egypt

Until Feb 12
WHERE Quebec, Canada
WHAT Chill out at the Quebec Winter
Carnival (carnaval.qc.ca), where giant
foosball, axe throwing and ice canoe races
meet sleigh rides, night parades and snow
sculptures in a esta of fun for all ages.
HOW The Bonhomme Efgy, a miniature
gurine of the Carnivals mascot worn on
your coat, funds the carnival and gives
access to all 17 days of events. This
quirky ticket is available online and
from hotels and shops in Quebec.
Bonhomme efgy from AED 40;
thepointofsale.com

15-19
WHERE Napier, New Zealand
WHAT Acrobatic ying displays, a Gatsby
picnic, free outdoor concerts, vintage
car parades and a Prohibition Party
are among the 250 events making
up the Tremains Art Deco Festival
(artdeconapier.com), held in the Art
Deco capital Napier, which was rebuilt
in the iconic style following the 1931
Hawkes Bay earthquake.
HOW Add the nearby Rotorua Bike Festival
(rotoruabikefestival.com), from February
10-19, to the agenda. With some of the
worlds nest bike trails, the programme
includes family rides, a meditative biking
experience, mountain bike events that

FEBRUARY
test nerves and skill and even lm nights.

19
WHERE Terni, Italy
WHAT Run a full or half marathon in the
name of love at the Maratona di San
Valentino (registration online from
AED 160; maratonadisanvalentino.it), What in the world is happening this month
starting in the Umbrian city where St.
Valentine was born. The picturesque
route includes the famous Marmore Falls.
HOW Fuel up before or treat yourself Airways (etihad.com) and Qatar Airways from AED 12,240; envisionfestival.com).
for your efforts afterwards at Osteria (qatarairways.com) y direct to Cairo, HOW Refresh post-festival in a Balinese-
Anteatro, which serves beautifully from where EgyptAir (egyptair.com) style glass-walled villa at Oxygen
plated Umbrian specialities, overlooking connects to Awsan and then to Abu Jungle Villas in Uvita. In the midst
one of the citys piazzas. Simbel. Abu Simbel is around a three- of a protected rainforest, home to
WORDS: PAMELA WILKES; PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

Tasting menu from AED 135, hour drive from Aswan. toucans and sloths and overlooking
0039-0744-43 2521, the Pacic Ocean, activities include
osteriaanteatroterni.it 23-26 hiking trails and waterfalls, whale-
WHERE Rancho La Merced, Costa Rica watching trips, spa treatments
22 WHAT Rainforest meets beach at and candlelit dinners.
WHERE Abu Simbel, Egypt the eco-friendly, multi-cultural Doubles from AED 915; 00506-8322
WHAT The Sun Festival marks one of Envision Festival in Costa Ricas 4773, oxygenjunglevillas.com.
only two days a year that sunlight Southern Zone. Highlights include
illuminates the internal chamber of the music across four stages, a yoga
temple built by pharaoh Ramses II. The festival, performance art and spoken BOOK NOW FOR...
statues of Ramses, Ra and Amun are workshops. Check in to one of four MARCH 10-19
bathed in light, leaving Ptah, god of VIP treehouse suites for added SXSW, Austin, Texas
darkness, in the shade (egypt.travel). comfort (general admission from sxsw.com
HOW Emirates (emirates.com), Etihad AED 1,225; VIP Treehouse tickets

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 27


Q&A

Basils Bar in
Mustique is
Hilgers favourite.
Left: Colourful
Indian market nds

a
and Im reminded of it
whenever I look through
w
tthe book.

Whats your usual


W
Ive visited India many ttravel uniform?
I always wear lightweight,
times and am always versatile pieces such
inspired by the energetic as cotton oxford shirts,
culture and diverse heritage Delhi is wonderful
wonderful. Ive visited chinos and a navy blue blazer
chino
the country many times and for easy layering. Comfort is
am always inspired by the key, and you have to be able to
energetic culture and diverse step off a plane and go straight
heritage. I also love the food. to meetings or events.

What do you look for in What grooming products


AROUND THE WORLD WITH... luxury hotels?
Fashion isnt always about
do you carry?
I always bring Kiehls

TOMMY
clothing it also applies to moisturiser, Carmex lip balm,
interiors and dcor. Going to a Molton Brown soap and La Mer
luxury hotel is a great way of SPF 50 UV Protecting Fluid
seeing new design trends. with me when I travel. These

HILFIGER
products are great for when

INTERVIEW: JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTOS: ANNIE LEIBOVITZ, ALAMY, GETTY IMAGES


How does travel inuence youre on the go.
your collections?
I love to bring my travel Which city do you
experiences to life through never tire of?
The classic American designer on New York fashion: the energy and culture Ive loved the buzz and energy
hotspots, his travel uniform and why he of new cities and the diversity
of fashion scenes across the
of New York since I rst
visited as a kid. Theres always
loves Indian textiles and food world. I often travel to big something new to explore. I
capitals like Paris, London, enjoy going to Central Park
If you could escape We have pieces that weve Istanbul, Beijing and Seoul. with my son Sebastian, or
anywhere right now, where collected from around the Theres always so much going going vintage shopping with
would you go? world, which create an eclectic on in these places, and I enjoy my daughters. Katzs Deli is
I would go to Mustique with sense to our style and home seeing how people dress in our great for lunch, and Dee and I
my family, where we have a dcor. Im particularly inspired signature classic American like Peasant in SoHo for dinner.
home. We always go to Basils by traditional Indian patterns cool style with their own twist
Bar its an island institution and tailoring. I love visiting that reects local culture. Whats on your bucket
and the perfect way to spend the busy marketplaces in India list for 2017?
an evening with family. the colours, textures and Where did you pick up your Ive always wanted to visit
fabrics are incredible. favourite souvenir? Australia and hopefully we can
Whats your top When I was in Beijing in 2015, cross it off the bucket list soon.
shopping destination? Where is your favourite I bought a great coffee table I love being out on the water
My wife Dee and I love to hotel in the world? book about Chinese artists. and Australia has some of the
shop together when we travel. The Leela Palace in New It was such an amazing trip, best coastlines in the world.

28 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


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Why
h I travel a THE BUSIN
E S S O F TR

Yes, we live in uncertain times. But staying home and hand-wringing wont do any good.
AVEL

Experiencing the world rst-hand will transform you and maybe even transform the world in turn.
Need convincing? Listen to what 18 committed travellers, from all walks of life and areas
of business, have to say about why you should go now, more than ever

GERALD LAWLESS
Young monks in
CHAIRMAN, WORLD TRAVEL Bhutan, a spiritual
& TOURISM COUNCIL AND HEAD destination for
OF TOURISM & HOSPITALITY, designer Philip Lim
DUBAI HOLDING

Travel and tourism is a force for good.


We see globally how much people benet
from visiting different countries where
they get to know and understand various
cultures. Travel cuts across prejudices
and helps people relate to each other. A great example is the Sheikh
Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding in Dubai, which
facilitates visits to a mosque for non-Muslim tourists. There, they
receive a lecture from an imam about the similarities between religions
and how Islam is a religion of peace and tolerance. Travel and tourism
enriches humanity and, in my opinion, should be encouraged as one
of the great drivers of peace worldwide.

PHILIP LIM
CO-FOUNDER, 3.1 PHILIP LIM

One of the most special moments of my 2015 trip to Bhutan was


playing badminton at a monastery with a young monk who was
completely full of joy and peace. The countrys spiritual approach
to life was a gift of enlightenment and strength.

CHRISTIANE AMANPOUR
CHIEF INTERNATIONAL
CORRESPONDENT, CNN

Travel is vital, especially in the worst


of times. I would say that, though,
wouldnt I, as a journalist who runs
toward danger, not away from it? But
in both good and difcult times alike,
travelling and meeting people with
different and opposing ideas is as YOKO ONO ACTIVIST, ARTIST
important as nding the most inviting
beaches, visiting the best restaurants
and seeing the sights.
IT CIRCULATES
YOUR BRAIN
30 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017
BUSINESS OF TRAVEL

DEEPAK CHOPRA
CO-AUTHOR, SUPER GENES

Travelling the world brings you


the profound insight that as different
as appearances, tastes, dresses,
music and cultures may be across
the globe, people are the same.

DONNA KARAN
FOUNDER, URBAN
ZEN FOUNDATION

In the past, when design students


asked me for advice about getting
into fashion, I would tell them to
get a job in retail. Now I tell them
to see the world. We must reach
COMPILED BY: DAVID WALTERS, RHEA SARAN, RASHMI SHANKAR, SAMIRA SOOD, SMITHA MENON, PRASAD RAMAMURTHY; PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

beyond both our borders and


our comfort zones to confront
todays greatest challenges and
JOELLE MARDINIAN to experience the refreshing joy
BEAUTY EXPERT, TV HOST AND FOUNDER, MAISON DE JOELLE that you can recognise yourself
in others, regardless of where
Amidst all the negative vibes that surround us these days, we need to nd more positivity. Its so on the planet you may live.
important to keep hopes up and travel lets you do that. Travel spreads love and brings us closer
as a family as well. My daughter and son get to meet people of different backgrounds and habits,
teaching them tolerance and acceptance in the most natural possible way. Travel also helps me
bond with my kids, I get alone time with them. We travel to Switzerland every year, and while we
are reliving our rst time there four years ago, each time we are also faced with new challenges,
rediscovering things about each other. We sleep in one room and take care of each other. I see how
my kids are developing and, for me, this is really the biggest highlight of travel.

AERIN LAUDER FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, AERIN

TO UNDERSTAND WHATS GOING


ON IN THE WORLD, YOU HAVE
TO SEE THE WORLD

BOBBI BROWN
FOUNDER, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
BOBBI BROWN COSMETICS FASHION DESIGNER

Travelling is so important to It always surprises me that


my creativity. During my trips, your expectations of a place you
Ive gained a lot of inspiration want to visit are never the same
for my seasonal collections. in reality. Its generally better.
Its important for me to translate You have to live in some places
my inspirations which I usually to understand and experience them,
get from travelling and meeting which is something photography
women all over the world cannot always capture. Travelling also
into innovative and makes you understand that you are
functional products. not the centre of the world.

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 31


Pulau Ubin off Singapore,
where TV host Padma
Lakshmi spent her
layovers growing up

RICHARD BRANSON
FOUNDER,
VIRGIN GROUP

We cannot let fear dictate


how we live our lives. Soon
after the November 2015
Paris attacks, I didnt think
twice about my plans to
visit for the COP21 climate
change discussions. More
than ever before, the world
needed to come together.
Beyond the contribution
travel provides to
economies, it plays a vital
role in our understanding
of diverse cultures, in
bringing people together
and in nding solutions
to some of the worlds
biggest challenges. Its not
enough to read about the
world; the most important
education comes from
rst-hand experience.

MELINDA GATES CO-CHAIR AND TRUSTEE, BILL & MELINDA GATES FOUNDATION

IVE LEARNT THAT THE MOST


MEANINGFUL KIND OF TRAVEL DOESNT
ONLY CLOSE GEOGRAPHIC DISTANCES
BETWEEN PEOPLE, IT BRINGS THEM
CLOSER IN OTHER WAYS, TOO

SONU SHIVDASANI
FOUNDER, CHAIRMAN & CEO, SONEVA

Over the last century, humans have moved from the countryside to cities. For
thousands of years, we lived and evolved in a rural setting; being in an urban conne is
new to homo sapiens. I believe this is the culprit for the rise in chronic diseases such as
cancer, heart attacks and other ailments. In order to survive in this environment, one
needs to carry out rituals such as yoga and meditation; a bit of sport is always good and
one should really consider what one eats and drinks as that can change our physical
being and mental view on life. Of course, to develop the soul fully one should be
immersed in nature. Thus travel is important, to get out of this urban environment.
If you are connected more to nature, you are able to refresh your view on life.

32 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


BUSINESS OF TRAVEL

PADMA LAKSHMI
TV HOST AND AUTHOR, LOVE, LOSS,
AND WHAT WE ATE: A MEMOIR

My mother and I moved to California when I was a


teenager and it meant that my yearly trips to visit my
grandma in Chennai (or Madras as it was then called) grew
even longer. I would y, alone, from LAX to Tokyo, then
to Singapore, where Id spend a whole day and night, and
nally continue to India. I hated how long it took. Id hitch a
ride with one of several guys touting their hotels at arrivals,
nd myself an inexpensive room and hope that nothing
would happen to me. This would, I realise, never happen
today. But I came to love the layovers, discovering not just
a new city but a new me, self-reliant and adventurous. I
met a French writer who lived on the Singaporean island
of Pulau Ubin, having moved there after her sister had run
off with her husband in Paris; I met a couple, university
professors from Boston. I shopped the malls and I ate off
the street carts, setting my own schedule and course. It
was on these trips solo vacations which gave me a taste
of adulthood and independence that I rst realised I love
ADAM D. TIHANY to travel for travels sake.
HOSPITALITY DESIGNER

In a world that is turning more and more inwards, its extremely


important to travel, see our fellow mankind face to face, hear their
stories, appreciate their habits and culture and shake their hand; letting
them know that we care about each other. The internet connects us in
a two-dimensional fashion. We cannot feel the world around us by
looking at a screen we must seek the third human dimension in
travel and interaction every day of our lives.

ANTHONY SATTIN
MARCUS SAMUELSSON
JOURNALIST
CHEF/OWNER, RED
AND AUTHOR
ROOSTER HARLEM AND
STREETBIRD ROTISSERIE
Curiosity is what drives my
travels. Without it, I would stay
at home. In my 20s, curiosity
led me to books and I roamed
TRAVEL
the world through accounts of UNLOCKS
earlier travellers. I still read a
lot, but curiosity now drives me A WORLD
out into the world. It also helps
me talk to people, breaking the
OF
ice and asking questions. And it FLAVOUR
leads me to write books, too.

DAO-YI CHOW AND MAXWELL OSBORNE


FOUNDERS, PUBLIC SCHOOL

Its not just learning about different cultures, people and places.
Travelling today is also about bringing those experiences back to
share with your family and friends.
a THE BUSIN

The
FUTURE
E S S O F TR
AVEL

of
GETTING THERE
Everything you know about exploring the world is about to change. Whether youre navigating a foreign
airport with the help of an anthropomorphic robot that speaks 19 languages or ying the preposterously
comfortable Airbus A350 XWB to Helsinki and suffering zero jet lag, travel is getting undeniably better.
Which is probably why, in 2015, we saw more than a billion people taking off for business, pleasure
or both. As we enter this second-wave golden age, we teamed up with our future-obsessed colleagues
at Wired to forecast where the travel industry is headed as erce competition (Airbnb, we see you), smart
design (200sqft hotel rooms that dont feel like 200sqft) and even marketing gambits like Icelandairs
genius layover programme continue to transform the way we see the world
Illustrated by PETER OUMANSKI

34 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


BUSINESS OF TRAVEL

New JETS will the in-ight experience more comfortable, passengers Of course
make FLYING will go just about anywhere. Routes that were the FUTURE
considered long-haul in the past? Theyre not that long
involves
FUNagain. any more, says Marisa Lucas-Ugena, head of A350 XWB
marketing at Airbus. Were going to see the emerging ROBOTS.
{Imagine!} markets particularly in the southern hemisphere
connected. Oakland to Santiago, Johannesburg to
These

Two new wide-body planes, the Airbus A350 XWB and


the Boeing 787, have bigger windows that let in more
natural light, bathrooms that dont feel claustrophobic
Sydney. The A350 was built with that in mind.
Its also made with weight-saving composites and
is equipped with fuel-sipping engines that make ultra-
long-hauls economically viable for carriers. Singapore
5
are actually
and mood lighting that can limit jet lag (no, seriously). Airlines, for example, ended its reportedly unprotable HELPFUL
They even pump those babies with better cabin air non-stop between New York and Singapore in 2013,
thats more humid and less dehydrating. But the but the route will return in 2018 thanks to the A350,
1
biggest improvement may be what theyve taken shaving at least four hours off the current one-stop EMIEW3, at
Tokyos Haneda
away. The number one feedback we get is about the travel time. United has ordered 35 of the planes, which Airport
lack of noise, says Juha Jrvinen, chief commercial it plans to use for long ights to Asia; Delta will get An English-
officer of Finnair, which currently has six A350s, its rst of 25 A350s this year, with destinations to be speaking
two-wheeler
each of which seats 297 passengers. determined. Airbus forecasts global demand for new thatll make sure
Long-haul carriers like Cathay Pacic, Etihad Airways, wide-bodies will top 8,000 over the next 20 years, youre not lost in
Qatar Airways and Singapore Airlines have ordered a meaning thousands more A350s and 787s in the air translation during
a layover.
combined 215 A350s, recognising that, if they can make and far fewer complaints upon touchdown. - PAUL BRADY

NEXT-GEN GEAR will make all the DIFFERENCE in


the AIR and on the GROUND

Aerix Vidius HD Mophie Powerstation XL


This drone, about the size of a deck Sennheiser Momentum Wireless Charge both your iPad and phone
of cards, shoots hi- video. Theyre noise-cancelling but cool. with this pocketable battery.

Away Carry-On Botta Design Duo Knomo Knomad Air Organizer 2


Pack this ultralight polycarbonate Its a dual-time-zone watch with a Police your charging cables Spencer, at
case for quick trips. single sleek face. with this portfolio. Amsterdam Schiphol
This still-
experimental,
smiling 6ft 2in
robot guides
passengers
to gates.
360y 4K Camera Olloclip
A tennis-ball-small camera to capture Betabrand Knockout Travel Hoodie Amp up phone pics with these add-
360-degree panoramas. Faux-fur lining makes naps cosier. on macro and wide-angle lenses.

Your next VACATION may be on your COUCH


Call us biased, but were betting that virtual reality will never replace actually getting away.
Still, these VR experiences are just a hint of whats going to be possible in the next ve years
Tour hotels with the Best Western and Visitors Authoritys Vegas VR app Needles or tightrope-walk in
Virtual Reality Experience Drop Preview Hamilton Island or dive the Moab with Home Turf, from the
in on the Pyramids with Thomas Great Barrier Reef with the Qantas VR company Jaunt Vacation
3
Cooks Try Before You Fly Cruise VR app for iPhone, Android, Samsung on the next planet over with Mirai the velociraptor, at
the Henn-na Hotel
the Las Vegas Strip (without the 38C Gear VR, Oculus Rift and HTC Vive Hello Mars, on Googles new Check in by dino-bot?
temps) with the Las Vegas Convention devices Rock-climb Californias Daydream platform Only in Japan.

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 35


Ive seen the luxury
hotel room of the
future, and its made
PRIVATE JETS will of cardboard. At the
still be outrageously AWESOME new Research and
Discovery Studio
Two hours into my Austin- Abercrombie & Kent, Crystal at Four Seasons
Costa Rica ight aboard the AirCruises and TCS World headquarters in
Four Seasons Private Jet, I was Travel which operates the Toronto, theyve
on my third ute of bubbles, Four Seasons trips have mocked up a full-scale
cosied under a cashmere blanket waiting lists for adventures corrugated guest room
in my lie-at seat, trying to like this AED 496,000-per- to determine if the
gure out how I could always y person extravaganza. They vanity area is too wide
this way. The plane, a Boeing promise not only seamless (it is) and if a built-in
757 tricked out with just 52 travel but the chance to, in a AIRBNB will make desk is preferable
Business Class-style seats, was single trip, devour smoked short HOTEL SUITES feel to a freestanding
beginning its 25-day trip to ribs in Austin, ride mile-long round table (it isnt).
nine destinations, including zip-lines in Guanacaste, Costa more like HOME Down the hall, theyre
Langkawi and Tanzania, and Rica and traverse Lanai on a picking out which
would nearly circumnavigate jeep safari. Other outtters, Bernardaud porcelain and Riedel crystal are right for the forthcoming Four
the globe in just 25 days, like &Beyond and Privel, Seasons Hotel London at Ten Trinity Square. In a wet zone, designers
minus the security line waits. have recently launched similar are testing rainfall showerheads. Its all part of the brands effort to deliver
Today, companies like journeys through Africa and the a distinctive yet consistent experience. While rental-home sites like
American West, respectively. Airbnb or HomeAway are good at the former, they cant always promise
They all meet a surging demand the latter. Big hotel operators caught at-footed by the emergence of
for trips that jam dozens of these sharing-economy insurgents are now racing to add idiosyncrasies.
over-the-top experiences into

1.19
Starwood has invested AED 44 million in a 46,000sqft idea lab in
a waste-no-time itinerary, Manhattan. Marriotts newly opened M Beta hotel in Charlotte is a real-
says Javier Loureiro, the Four world room-design proving ground. The Hyatt Regency OHare is where
Seasons concierge who planned the company tested new paraben-free BeeKind bath products. And Four
my outings. Seasons is considering swapping standard coffee mugs for hand-thrown
billion Sure, the private stock pottery the sort youd expect to nd in a home, not a hotel: As CEO
Number of international of bubbles was nice but J Allen Smith says, No detail is too small. - ANDREW SESSA
tourist arrivals worldwide never having to wait with
in 2015 a record.
The UN forecasts 1.81 billion the hoi polloi at the gate was
travellers by 2030. even better. - ZACH EVERSON
Your GRANDKIDS will be SPRING
BREAKING by BLIMP
These still-in-development game changers will put
ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE us a few steps closer to sci- teleporters
will be PLANNING your
next VACATION
If youve ever spent hours sifting through hundreds of hotels on Kayak,
blame co-founder Paul English. His innovative one-stop-shopping approach
revolutionised the way we search for travel on the web when it launched Elon Musks idea for a pneumatic-
in 2004. Now his new venture Lola, founded after he left Kayak in 2013, is tube Hyperloop could cut travel times
between LA and SF to 35 minutes by The Concorde-like Quiet
another solution to the tyranny of online choice. We dont want to show you 2035, but will likely debut in the UAE, Supersonic Technology X-Plane could
300 hotels in New York, English says. We want to show you three. To do cutting travel time between Dubai and be ying 1,487kph to London, with
that, hes assembled an articial-intelligence-enhanced travel agency thats Abu Dhabi down to 12 minutes. no sonic booms, by 2027.
already attracted 10,000 users. Rather than phone in their trip-planning
requests, most travellers communicate with agents via text message,
whether theyre looking for the best vintage shops in LA or a last-minute
hotel room in Chicago. Lolas AI does a preliminary annotation of incoming
messages, then passes them along to a team of 20 human travel agents who
reply to users in real time with actionable intel. Its like having an executive
assistant, says English. You type one line and everything is booked for
you. Lola is betting that texts will continue to replace clicks and calls as the
easiest way to plan a trip. So are competitors including Hello Hipmunk, Mezi,
If test ights succeed, the NASAs four-person Orion
SnapTravel and Tradeshift Go. Its a little retro, English says of his effort to
helium-lled, cargo-hauling Airlander will ferry crews beyond Earths orbit as
reinvent the travel-agency model, but people already spend more time in 10 will be passenger-ready early as 2023, but moon landings for
messaging apps than in all other apps combined. - ELAINE GLUSAC by the 2020s. tourists are still TBD.

36 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


BUSINESS OF TR
T
TRAVEL
RAV
AVEL
Hotels everywhere are embracing what the
Japanese have done for decades crunching Hotel rooms will
rooms down to smaller-than-200sqft pods. Ten
years ago, Midtown Manhattans Pod Hotel
SHRINK, but
ushered in the era of the microhotel with SMART DESIGN
the mainstream American debut of minimalist
rooms: luggage was stored under the beds, will be HUGE
bathrooms were tub-less. In 2015, Marriott
launched Moxy in Milan, with tiny but 4
gorgeous guest rooms in dark wood and cream Mario, at the
leather. Two Roads, which owns Destination, Ghent Marriott Hotel
Joie de Vivre and Thompson hotels, will The not quite 2ft-tall
dynamo translates 19
open the lifestyle microhotel brand tommie languages and hands out
in Hollywood in 2018. Smaller rooms are room key cards.
cheaper, of course, and faster to build. The
developers of a 249-key Pod Hotel slated for
Williamsburg, Brooklyn, say theyve saved six
months by using modular construction without
compromising design. At two new AvroKO-
designed Arlo properties in New York, rooms
average just 150sqft, and they actually look
good with ip-up desks, open closets and
huge windows that make the most of the tight
quarters. Not that youll feel cramped: The
Arlo Hudson Square has two bars, a Southern
restaurant from Daniel Boulud protg Harold 5
Moore and coffee by Joe, a local favourite. And Botlr, at Aloft hotels
This R2-D2-shaped robotic
when youre in NYC, how much time do you bellhop can fetch you
spend in your room anyway? - ANDREW SESSA toothpaste or extra towels.

582,271
NUMBER OF HOTEL ROOMS BEING PLANNED OR BUILT
IN ASIA. THATS SIX PER CENT MORE THAN IN THE US
AND 10 TIMES THE NUMBER COMING TO AFRICA

Youll WANT to book a LAYOVER


rather than DESPERATELY
try to AVOID one
If it seems like everybodys will give you a free guided
still talking about Iceland, tour of Doha, including the
youre right. In 2015, more IM Pei-designed Museum
than 1.2 million tourists of Islamic Art, if your
made the trip, many of connection is longer than
them on a free stopover eight hours. And if you book
courtesy of Icelandair, a Helsinki stopover with
which invented the idea of Finnair, you can tack on a
layover-as-vacation back city tour and a hotel room
in the Sixties as a way to for the night for AED 520.
boost tourism. It only took Layover-friendly carriers also
other airlines 50-plus years serve Abu Dhabi, Dubai and
to jump on the bandwagon. Taipei. The one thing all of
Air Canada added Toronto these destinations have in
stopovers in 2015, and common is healthy tourist
TAP and Copa started infrastructure: quality hotels,
programmes for Lisbon and buzzy restaurants, solid
Panama City, respectively, public transportation options
last year. Qatar Airways (or Uber). - LILIT MARCUS

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 37


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

FAMILY ice fountains. The resort also offers family

PARADISE spa journeys, where you can


share your passion for a healthy lifestyle
with your children. Sign up for the private
yoga session specically designed for
Enjoy your next family holiday on a private island retreat at One&Only Reethi Rah mother and daughter or share a father-
and-son moment with a round of boxing
followed by reviving massages.

O
n one of the largest private roster of activities guaranteed to tennis court and a climbing wall with The latest addition to the resorts
islands in the North Mal satisfy those of every age. ve routes. The artist studio provides dining concepts is Botanica, a restaurant
Atoll, One&Only Reethi The resorts Dive Centre has classes with professional resident artist set around a banyan tree and wild
Rah is the ideal stop professional PADI Instructors who Christopher Hogan. For families with orchids, where guests can indulge
for families seeking luxury and fun. teach a variety of courses that cater young children, the KidsOnly Club and in organic food and grape. Sweet
The 122 private villas, each attended to individual needs, and the property One Tribe ensure that the little ones Paradise is another new opening,
by a concierge and villa valet, are also offers dolphin cruises and guided are kept entertained, with hands-on located in the shade of the palm trees.
discreetly placed along the pristine snorkelling trips in the crystal-clear activities like chocolate-making classes With different chocolates and playful
shore with the 90 Beach Villas waters. Private diving trips and and coconut hunts. toppings, the shop offers the chance
secluded by lush tropical greenery excursions are offered for those who Of course, an island escape isnt to satisfy your sweet tooth.
and 32 Water Villas set over the want time alone with their family, complete without a rejuvenating spa. With exquisite accommodation and
lagoon. Home to 12 beaches and 6km including trips to secluded sandbanks End your day at the One&Only Spa, a endless activities, One&Only Reethi Rah
of coastline, the property ensures and sunset catamaran cruises. tranquil retreat with vitality pools, is a true paradise guaranteed to satisfy
ultimate privacy, as well as an expansive Land activities include two oodlit crystal steam rooms and stimulating every member of the family.

For more information, call 00960-664 8800 or visit oneandonlyresorts.com


Clockwise: Unwind at the spa
yoga pavillion; kids will love
the ice cream bar; the view
from a Beach Villa; making
a splash in the kids pool.
Opposite: A Grand Beach
Villa with private pool
WORD
OF MOUTH
ETHIOPIA TOKYO ISABEL MARANT MORE TRAVEL NEWS

W
hen Romantic poet Percy
Bysshe Shelley rst visited
Lombardy some 200 years
ago, he was struck by how dazzling its
lakes were. Lake Como, he decided, was
enchanted, describing the three-ngered
body of water as exceeding anything he had
ever beheld in beauty. Looking out across
its steep-sided inlets from the snub-nosed
prow of a Riva boat eyeballs ping-ponging
between moss-green waters and super-luxe
villas its easy to see what he meant.
Today, paradise remains, as do the
lakefronts dusty grand hotels but new
faades are beginning to freshen up the
look. Long before you reach the overrun
village of Bellagio at the lakes nexus, youll
nd new boutique property Il Sereno

COMO
(doubles from AED 2,920; 0039-031-547
7800, ilsereno.com), sister to Le Sereno,
the A-lister hideaway in St Barts. Located
in Torno, its a travellers Xanadu, with the

REBOOTED
kind of service that ensures you never lift a
nger and interiors that are magazine cover-
worthy. But the real star is Ristorante Berton
Al Lago nearby resident George Clooney
has been known to stop in for the pasta.
Farther north, 16th-century palazzo Check in to Italys lake district with half the crowds
Villa Pliniana (doubles from AED 1,345;
0039-031-419 772, villapliniana.com) has
and twice the glamour
been rebooted since the poets visit and is
open for exclusive use with 19 rooms, a spa
and a glimmering innity pool. While some
balustraded villas cling precariously to the
shoreline for a view, Villa Pliniana stretches
out over 18 acres, in a setting no less
dazzling now than two centuries ago.

40 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


WORDS: MIKE MACEACHERAN

A pool with a view


at new boutique
property Il Sereno
Clockwise from
top: PUBLIC in
New York;
soon-to-open
Sotel Darling
Harbour; Abraj
Kudai in Mecca

2 MINUTES WITH
Rich McCor
The photographer and Instagram
sensation known as Paperboyo on
viewing cities through his unique lens
What prompted you to start using paper
cutouts to transform iconic locations in
your images?
It started in London where I decided to pick
up my on-again-off-again photography
hobby. As I was walking past Big Ben I had
the idea of turning it into a wristwatch, so I
went home, made a paper cutout and then
returned with my camera. When I loaded
that photo on to Instagram it went down
well, and so I started wondering what other
buildings I could transform.
TREND ALERT
What most excited you about visiting and

SUPERSIZE ME photographing Dubai?


I knew Dubai would be the perfect
Jumbo hotels are all the rage this year playground for what I do its full of iconic

WORDS: JENNY JOHNSON; INTERVIEW: RHEA SARAN; PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM.COM/PAPERBOYO


and whacky architecture. I had so much

W
hile boutique hotels with personalised experiences have led the way in fun playing around with my cutouts in the
recent times, 2017 seems poised to turn the trend on its head with mega city. The amazing scenery let me tap into
properties popping up around the globe. Those looking for a carefree both my sense of humour and my love
holiday want wide-ranging facilities and exciting experiences under one roof, says of whimsical scenes. Im especially happy
Joost Vermuelen, regional manager, Middle East & Africa at Booking.com of this with the Emirates Towers photo, and
trend, so its no wonder accommodations across the world are upgrading their the Jumeirah Group seemed to approve
offerings to match this growing demand. Adds Wouter Geerts, travel analyst at because the hotel reposted it.
Euromonitor International: Being part of a community is increasingly important
in an individualistic world where we spend so much time online, and hotels are The most challenging image youve
responding with communal spaces for shared experiences. worked on?
Hotelier Ian Schragers PUBLIC (publichotels.com), set to launch in New York The biggest challenge is a strong breeze,
this spring, is a mini village with at least nine restaurants and entertainment venues and also nding the right vantage point.
including a food market by Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Across the pond, sprawling The most recent challenging image was on
resort The Ned (thened.com) on Londons South Bank is taking over the old Midland my trip to Paris, where I transformed the
Bank, once the largest bank in the world, with the reception area in the vast banking Eiffel Tower into a buttery. Id tried the
hall, a spa, a rooftop pool overlooking St Pauls Cathedral and nine dining venues night before when it was windy and rainy
(dont miss the bar in the basement vault that featured in the James Bond lm and it didnt work at all, so I returned the
Goldnger). Down Under, Sotel Darling Harbour (soteldarlingharbour.com.au) next evening and was treated to a beautiful
is Sydneys rst major new-build ve-star hotel in 15 years, and will be one of the sunset and managed to capture a much
countrys largest when it launches later this year with more than 600 rooms and a stronger image.
mammoth convention and exhibition centre. And never to be outdone in the
supersized stakes, the Gulf region is represented by Saudi Arabias Abraj Kudai Where would you like to go next?
(dar.dargroup.com), currently under construction in Mecca. The plan is to have a ring Tokyo. For the same reasons as Dubai its
of 12 towers, ranging from 30 to 48 stories, housing 10,000 rooms, 70 restaurants and a city full of amazing architecture, and also
ve rooftop helipads, making it, quite naturally, the largest hotel in the world. its a culture totally different to my own and
Id love to experience that.

42 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


WORD OF MOUTH

INDONESIA
Here come the hut steppers
Bypass Bali and spend your shore leave at Indonesias other unplugged hideaways
Theres a sparring match going on between two is on letting guests get back to nature scampering
private-island openings in Indonesia this year the around the jungle and spending hours snorkelling
rst, from banker-turned-hotelier Andrew Dixon, is through mini tornados of neon sh yet still offering
Cempedak (doubles from AED 1,650; 0065-3158 great service, and slick Maldivian-style beach and
2119, cempedak.com). He was the man behind over-water villas. Meanwhile, Sumbawa, an island
hit escape Nikoi in the South China Sea, which east of Bali, may be generally bypassed in favour of
began life as a retreat for friends before evolving tented retreat Amanwana (doubles from AED 2,755;
into a collection of 15 boho beach houses cooled 0062-371-22 233, aman.com/resorts/amanwana) on
by sea breezes rather than air-con. Cempedak, the nearby isle of Moyo. But by 2018, green-juice-
south of Nikoi in the Riau Archipelago, will riff on a drinking hippy-hipsters will have a reason to stay:
similar Robinson Crusoe vibe, but for adults only. Sumbawa Point Resort (pegasuslodges.com). Its
Its 20 bamboo villas, each with a plunge pool, are oceanfront lodge, chic villas and wellness centre
surrounded by trees for maximum seclusion. Dont are laid out along feng shui principles and a river
come expecting lengthy pillow menus or OTT running through the site creates a natural yin and
service; its about chilling out and staying low-key. yang divide, which supposedly makes it a powerful
The second launch is Bawah (bawahisland.com), a spot to practise qigong. Indonesia is huge yet the
cluster of six islands set around three crystal-clear focus has always been on Bali, one of its smallest
lagoons in the Anambas archipelago, just a boat, islands. Now the rest of the archipelago is nally
seaplane and splash from Singapore. The focus here shimmying into the spotlight.

Over-water villas
at Bawah in the
Anambas archipelago

City pretty
Make-up suited to your destination is the idea behind Bobbi
Browns limited-edition trio of palettes celebrating the
WORDS: JENNY JOHNSON

cosmetics gurus favourite cities New York, London


and Paris in honour of the brands 25th anniversary. With
illustrations by artist Richard Haines, the fashionable London Bobbi Brown City
Collection palettes,
Palette includes metallic and rich navy eyeshadows, while the AED 388 each
Paris version features chic greys and elegant pinks, and New
York is all about subtle nude tones inspired by the off-duty
style of the cool girls Brown observed outside her SoHo ofce.

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 43


WHAT I PACK
Isabel Marant
On staying close to home,
but going often

I
did those crazy backpacking
trips you do when youre
young, says Paris-based
fashion designer Isabel Marant,
rattling off destinations like
Sri Lanka and Thailand.
These days, however, as the
creative force behind six annual
collections, she has no time
for long-haul ights (in the
coming months, Marant will
also open her 24th boutique, in
Miami). Most weekends, she
and her husband, accessories
designer Jrme Dreyfuss,
and their 13-year-old son, Tal,
escape to their rustic cottage
in Fontainebleau, 56km south-
east of Paris. Come summer,
the family decamps to Ibiza
for several weeks (its just a
two-hour ight from CDG).
The house they rent is on the
quiet side, local-speak for
the northern part, which is a
world away from the clubs on
the southern side. Her itinerary
is simple: She paddleboards
with her son most days and
has friends over in the evening
for grilled sh and rounds of
Uno. When not in the water
(Cala Xuclar Beach is great
for snorkelling, Sa Caleta for Products from top:

WORDS: KARI MOLVAR, JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, ALAMY


Knock Knock necklace,
secluded swims), shes shopping AED 935, Isabel Marant;
local markets (try Las Dalias, straw and double leather
the best one for straw bags and cross body bucket, AED
hats). Her one suitcase, a nylon 1,055, Sensi Studio;
toile Starla bikini top,
Eastpak duffel, is lled with AED 420, Sukie bikini
bikinis, chiffon silk dresses that bottom, AED 210;
never wrinkle and one pair of both Isabel Marant;
Dr. Hauschka Rose
espadrilles, which Marant dubs Nurturing Body Oil, AED
basically the sneaker of Ibiza. 90. Right: North Ibiza

On the case iPhone case


and card holder,
The multi-purpose MUJJO iPhone case and card AED 155, MUJJO
holder is the perfect pocket-sized companion, at Virgin
Megastore
snugly encasing the iPhone 7 or 7 Plus for extra
protection while also securely storing your credit
card, ID and travel card.

44 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


WORD OF MOUTH

STYLE FILE
The Japanese do it better
To nd the best Italian tailoring head to Tokyo

N
o one doubles down on Beams F The rst thing youll Rubinacci and Sartoria Ciardi
a style phenomenon notice is how remarkably well as well as classic Neapolitan
like the Japanese. turned out the staff are. They labels like Kiton and Cesare
They seek out genuine have a daring sensibility and a Attolini. For a smaller
examples of iconic pieces clear point of view, as does the investment, get one of Isetans
think of the overheated market store it channels mid-century private-label knit ties. Dont
a few years back around Italian tailoring with gusto. leave without checking out
original Levis and Red Wing Look for ties from Ulturale, the incredible shoe selection
boots, says David Coggins, textured clothing from Stile in the basement.
who gathered sage advice Latino and suits from Dalcuore.
from some of Tokyos fashion The Beams F private label, The Sovereign House This
inuencers for his new book particularly the line of sport United Arrows offshoot in
Men And Style. The countrys coats in Italian fabrics, is Chuo-ku shows the brands
latest sartorial obsession? more earthbound. more rened side. Sartorio sport
Italian tailoring. With its coats and Massimo Alba knits
love of craftsmanship, Japan Isetan Shinjuku Its probably are all part of the super-tight
has moved past anonymous the worlds greatest department edit, and its the only location
salaryman suits to embrace store. The buying team has outside Florence that carries
Italian tailor expressive tailoring and even tracked down rareed brands the wonderful tailor Liverano &
Liverano & standing out, says Coggins. like the shirt-maker Finamore, Liverano. If theres one store
Liverano at The
Sovereign House Here, he tells us where to and the store features I feel like I could shop at for
nd the best cuts. renowned Naples tailors the rest of my life, its this one.

Elskling
Slip it on Leather Mule in
Very Red,
Step out in style in handcrafted leather slippers by Norwegian footwear designer AED 515,
WORDS: CHANTEL TATTOLI, RICK JORDAN, JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTO: VIRGINIE GARNER/CORALIE FERREIRA

A.Andreassen
A.Andreassen. Reminiscent of woven baskets made by Scandinavian children,
they are made from soft Italian leather, with a padded footbed for added comfort.

TASTE BUZZ

SANSHO PEPPER
A twist on the Japanese peppercorn
THE CRAZE 0044-16-0869 1000, sohofarmhouse.com), the
This sparky peppercorn is traditionally ground Japanese restaurant at Soho Farmhouse in the
and sprinkled on grilled eel in its native Cotswolds, its whisked with butter to drizzle
Japanese islands, although its wriggled free on asparagus. Over in New York, David Chang
of being typecast and is now making guest adds it to fried prawns at Momofuku Nishi
appearances on everything from cocktails to (entres from AED 50; 0016-4-6518 1919, nishi.
ice cream. Whats the appeal? Well, rather momofuku.com), and Chikarashi (bowls from
than simply ring up the palate, it creates AED 40; 0016-46-649 5965, chikarashi.com)
tingling citrusy pops on the tongue a little makes bowls of Hawaiian pok with sansho
like cool lemon balm but far more intriguing. salmon. For a few skewers of original chicken
sanshoyaki, though, head to Tokyos Bird Land
TRY IT Ginza (skewers from AED 15; 0081-3-5250
In London, on plump slices of mallard breast 1081, ginza-birdland.sakura.ne.jp). As for the
at Sohos Koya Bar (entres from AED 30; strawberry sorbet, thats called the Tunnel of
koyabar.co.uk) or on scallops and the rim of Love and its the marvellous creation of Parisian
a Yuzu Martini at Dalstons Jidori (drinks food truck Glaces Glazed (ice cream from AED
from AED 20; 0044-20-7686 5634, jidori. 10; 0033-8-162 4706, glaces-glazed.com). Eel
co.uk). At Pen Yen (entres from AED 25; ice cream, anyone?

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 45


SUPERFLY
How a Bond art director can be
your secret holiday weapon
One of the pleasures of travel is reliving
happy memories. In the past, nostalgia
was delivered with the whirr and click
of a rickety slides projector, by leang
through blurry prints or watching
clunky camcorder footage. Then next-
level lenses and the advent of the
digital camera made us all professional
photographers, and that was before
anyone had a smartphone and a sele
stick. The holiday memento, however,
is about to get a whole lot slicker
with the launch of Drone the World
adventures from tour operator Black
Tomato. The service sees professional
droneographers such as Tim Browning
join guests for part of their trip to
capture aerial photographs and video
footage, which will then be edited
into a featurette lm. Browning has
more than 20 years experience in the
movie industry, working on Spectre
and Skyfall, and as a drone expert on
BBC documentaries and the upcoming
Star Wars: Episode VIII. He hopes
to help create lms with a high-end
cinematic feel, telling holiday stories in
an unusual and original way. Examples
of the picturesque destinations on
offer include the rugged Lofoten
archipelago, Icelands ethereal
Jkulsrln glacial lagoon and the
hills of Sri Lankas tea country.
From AED 17,930 per person
including ights and accommodation
(blacktomato.com/drone-the-world)

PHOTO: GABRIEL SCANU

View your trip from a


different perspective with
aerial images and videos
Skateboarding is
the latest trend for WORD OF MOUTH
kids in Ethiopia

Dress, AED 1,285,


Mira Hayek at
lebelik.com

In the fold
Inspired by origami and
Japanese paper dolls, Lebanese
designer Mira Hayeks KamiDoll
collection features playful
separates sleeveless blazers,
ared trousers and voluminous
dresses in sharp geometrics
cuts and 3D pleats.

Polar explorers
Forget the beach: adventurers are now
embarking on polar expeditions to experience
these icy regions before climate change alters
WORDS: RICK JORDAN, JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTOS: DANIEL REITER, ALAMY

them forever. As the planet warms and summer


ice reaches record lows, more ships are setting ADDIS ABABA
course to these remote wildernesses. Last
autumn Crystal Serenity (cruise from AED
80,270; 001-866-446 6625, crystalcruises.
JUMPING JACK FLASHES
com) became the rst large-scale cruise liner
Contain yourselves: Ethiopias street-smart kids
to traverse the Northwest Passage from Alaska are getting their skates on
to the Atlantic Ocean. Next year will see the

B
debut of the liners new polar class mega- ack in the Seventies, maverick Californian skateboarders used empty swimming pools
yacht Endeavor, which will cruise the Arctic to break new jumps. Pools are in short supply in Addis Ababa, but its young crews have
following the route of whales migrating south the hit-and-run rawness and purity of those Converse-scufng pioneers. A few years
in winter. Meanwhile, visitors to Antarctica ago, a handful of plucky teens inspired by visiting boarders and YouTube videos began
can enjoy the newly revamped White Desert riding on the citys old monuments and in a disused car park, sharing just ve boards between
Camp Whichaway (7 nights from AED 265,720; them. They were spotted by LA-born Sean Stromsoe, who then co-founded Ethiopia Skate
white-desert.com), with six heated sleeping (ethiopiaskate.org) and raised funds to build the countrys rst skate park, which opened last
pods featuring bamboo headboards, fur throws year. Berlin-based photographer Daniel Reiter (danielreiter.de), a fan of the sport, has been
and en-suite facilities stocked with sustainable documenting the growing scene with a series of exhibitions around Europe. Theres one
Lost Explorer brand toiletries, and a dining pod kid called Henok whos the craziest and most talented, he says. If he sees an old shipping
serving three-course menus accompanied by container, hell want to jump off it straight away. Ethiopia Skate can also arrange local hook-
grape own in from Cape Town. ups for visiting skateboarders and informal tours of Addis Ababa for anyone interested in
seeing the ipside of the city.

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 47


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

ROYAL
TREATMENT
Escape to The Leela Palace New Delhi, a majestic base
for a shopping trip to Indias capital

C
ombining traditional North at Jamavar, every guest can dine like a
Indian palace architecture king. Then kick back at the 6,500sqft
with the elegance of spa by ESPA with indulgent signature
Lutyens Delhi, The Leela treatments inspired by the traditions of
Palace New Delhi evokes the romance Ayurveda, or rejuvenate in the heated
and style of days gone by. Located rooftop innity pool. Also on offer: tailor-
in the prestigious Diplomatic Enclave made experiences and personalised Clockwise from top left: The open-air
pool; the Royal Club Lounge; lavish
area of the city, the property is home services, including the bespoke Kamal Indian jewellery and accessories can
to exquisite art and artefacts, glittering package for single female travellers. be picked up on a bespoke shopping
Murano chandeliers, hand-woven For those looking for retail therapy, excursion from the hotel

Turkish carpets, Rajasthani miniature Delhi is the ultimate destination and,


paintings and bidri work from Uttar whether you choose to bargain in the
Pradesh, balanced with state-of-the-art bazaar, go souvenir sourcing or discover
technology in all guest rooms and suites. new designers, the bespoke excursions
The environmentally responsible hotel created by the Leela Palace combine
incorporates sustainable development exhilarating shopping tours with
initiatives and has been awarded Gold insights into the citys heritage. With
LEED certication. customised itineraries and the expertise
With ve restaurants and lounges of personal shoppers, the hotel will
serving international and Indian cuisine, turn your shopping experience into
including a royal Indian dining experience a memorable adventure.

For more information, visit theleela.com


BACK
TO
ITS
ROOTS
After years of molecular
gastronomy, with
its avoured foams
and vapours, Madrids
food scene makes a
U-turn to become the
new capital of homestyle
Spanish cooking, nds
STEPHEN ORR

Photographed by
AIALA HERNANDO

S
pain may be in the economic
doldrums, but judging from
its capitals packed markets,
restaurants and tapas bars, its
buzzing. Every night, people
ll the streets of Madrids Chueca and
Salamanca districts, going from tapas bar
to tapas bar in a hedonistic parade that
stretches into the small hours. This is
famously a late-night town (hence the
almost government-mandated siesta). On
most menus, including in the citys best
restaurants, chefs are recovering from their
love affair with the molecular gastronomy potato; and seafood. Its no accident that as of inexpensive but delicious Rueda or
that so dened Spanish food in the Nineties economic indicators decline, comfort food Tempranillo. The Mercado de San
and Noughties. These days, youll nd makes a surge, providing solace during Miguel (mercadodesanmiguel.es), near the
market-oriented menus increasingly turbulent nancial times. Plaza Mayor, is Madrids most famous
dedicated to homestyle yet still-elevated The best way to get a sense of Madrids (and heavily touristed). This market is
versions of dishes that a Madrilea mother diverse culinary pleasures is to take a also the citys most beautiful built in
would serve to a lovesick son: hearty meat tour of its historic markets: each has its 1916, it has soaring cast-iron columns and
stews (cocidos); heirloom Navarran leeks, own personality and culinary specialities a glass faade that gives it the feeling of a
tomatoes and peppers lightly dressed with and enough people-watching for Victorian greenhouse which means youll
olive oil; crispy fried croquetas of ham or hours of enjoyment over several glasses nd yourself vying for space with visitors

50 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


FOOD

Sushi (sushi from AED 7; washoku.es), local


produce at La Huerta del Sol (lahuertadelsol.
es) and leather goods painstakingly hand-
sewn by artisans at Maniobras Reciclantes
(mercadodesanfernando.es/more-maniobras-
reciclantes). On the third Sunday of the
month, the slightly tatty central courtyard
is taken over by Chanclach, a lively salsa
dance party thats open to the public,
as well as other dance events. Sit at one
of the market bars for hops, grape and
tapas between dance sets, or take in the
scene over oysters and a crisp white grape
from the Ribera del Duero region at the
restaurant Bond 40 (tapas from AED 7;
mercadodesanfernando.es/bond-40).
snapping seles and propping From left: A ripe tapas such as chanquetes (tiny Located near the Plaza de Coln,
shots for Instagram. Try the Navarran tomato fried whitebait) and Padrn Platea Madrid (plateamadrid.com) is pure
with basil is served
garlic shrimp on avocado toast, as simply as a peppers from the chalkboard theatre of an almost Vegas sort. A former
grilled asparagus and a chilled rare steak at the menu at La Imperial (chanquetes cinema, this high-concept market kept its
tumbler of gazpacho at El Seor tapas bar Sala from AED 46; tabernalaimperial. red-curtained stage for music, cabaret and
de Despiece; the
Martn (stalls 29 and 44), the social scene at La
com). Or take your purchases dance performances. The glamorously lit
markets seafood specialist. Contrasea, with its from the markets shmongers ve-level space comes alive at night as
The Mercado San Antn sunny glass-roofed and butchers to the rooftop chatting, well-dressed Madrileos bustle
courtyard; Sala de
(spainattractions.es/mercado- Despiece owner
restaurant, where the chef will between venues: La Hora del Vermut
de-san-anton) is more of a and head chef turn them into dinner. (spirits from AED 6; 0034-681-00 7700,
locals affair, hidden away on Javier Bonet The Mercado de San lahoradelvermut.wordpress.com) for vermouth
a side street in the Chueca Fernando (mercadodesan (one of Madrids favourite spirits), Kinua
district. From the outside, it fernando.es) in Lavapis, one of for Peruvian ceviche (ceviche from AED 54;
looks like an ordinary multi- Madrids gentrifying districts, 0034-687-45 1994, plateamadrid.com/en/
level concrete mall, but the is still a little rough and the que-hay/kinua-peru-food) and Beso de Sal
atrium-style interiors have been designed locals like it that way. Here, the inuence for tacos (tacos from AED 38; 0034-687-45
to feel like a Whole Foods, for better or of the citys African and South American 1994, plateamadrid.com/en/que-hay/beso-de-
worse. What the place lacks in historic immigrant populations mingles with sal). Theres even Huerto y Cucharn (soups
authenticity, however, it makes up for in international hipster culture. The stalls of from AED 17; plateamadrid.com/en/que-hay/
modern convenience and the absence of the covered market showcase the traditional huerto-y-cucharon), selling Spanish soups and
tourists. Have a glass of Verdejo and order and the trendy, with sushi at Washoku stews for those craving something homey. All

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 51


The light-lled interior
at La Contrasea,
which has become
FOOD a favourite in the
Chamber district

WITH 23 RESTAURANTS AND SHOPS,


IT BLURS THE BOUNDARIES
BETWEEN FOOD COURT AND
PERFORMANCE SPACE

in all, Platea barely ts in the food market dishes that celebrate


category, but with 23 restaurants and shops, vegetables (a novelty in
it blurs the boundaries between food court Spanish restaurants)
and performance space in a way that if and the warm hospitality
the crowds are any indication other cities of owners Juan Miguel
around the world would do well to imitate. Sola and his wife,
Anabel, who were doing
Another favourite Madrid restaurant farm-to-table before
isnt new at all. Nothing about La it had a name. The
Manduca de Azagra (0034-915-91 0112, star of the menu is the
lamanducadeazagra.com), tucked into a produce brought down
nondescript street in the citys centrally daily from Azagra, the
located Chamber district, calls too much Solas hometown, just south of Pamplona. bulls tail arrives deboned and moulded
attention to itself. The interiors are sparely His favourite cristal peppers, so much into a terrine shape studded with porcini.
modern, with the type of soft-focus lighting better than the ordinary piquillos carry Its a Spanish version of the best pot roast
that makes the loyal clientele of politicians, a avour of earthy minerals. Artichokes, youll ever have. The meal ends with torrija
media people and artists feel comfortable. cardoons and borage stems are blanched and a Navarran version of French toast with a
The wait staff are silent and efcient and the delicately laced with fruity olive oil. Pochas crme brle top that is traditionally served
menu is an exemplar of careful restraint. No (tender beans) are simply stewed with meat to children and a warm goodbye embrace
one here wants much of a scene. What does and vegetables. But this isnt a place just for from Anabel. Not even the most hard-core
stand out is the food traditional Spanish vegetarians: a main course of slow-braised trend-chaser could leave wanting more.

CALLE PONZANO
Homestyle tapas like fried croquettes and straightforward meat and seafood dishes have made
a comeback in a big way. Youll nd a crop of the best new old-fashioned tapas bars on Calle Ponzano,
in the revived Chamber district, just north of the city centre
EL DOBLE hangout for its excellent food and youre looking for something SALA DE DESPIECE
With the renewed interest in strong mixed drinks, as well as its more substantial, main dishes The long, sleek counter and
traditional food, this 50-year-old, beautifully designed wood-and-tile include fried chicken with honey the walls made from pastel-
standing-only tapas bar is always interior and glass-roofed patio. and mustard or the scorpionsh coloured Styrofoam blocks
packed. The blue-and-white-tiled Favourite dishes include steak and prawn burger. are undoubtedly modern. The
walls are classic Spanish, as is the tartare topped with a quail egg, Tapas from AED 11; 0034-915-13 tapas plates, however, are
seafood-centric, simply prepared white asparagus doused in peppery 8059, barlambuzo.com classics. The handwritten menus
cuisine: the camarones (small, sweet olive oil and a speciality from list each dish, the method of
red shrimp) are lightly boiled, the Crdoba deep-fried eggplant LOS ARCOS DE PONZANO preparation and the origins:
mussels from Galicia are prepared with honey and salmorejo, a This 65-year-old neighbourhood razor clams from Pontevedra,
en escabeche (pickled in vinegar pure of tomatoes, bread, garlic, staple serving cuisine from the for example, are grilled la
and olive oil) and the salad of whole olive oil and vinegar. northern province of Segovia got plancha and topped with sea
prawns, diced peppers and onions Tapas from AED 32; 0034-911-72 a recent reboot with new wood salt. Other musts include the
and sherry vinegar may just be the 6378, restaurantelacontrasena.com oors, red-and-white tablecloths oversized fried pimiento peppers;
most elaborate dish on offer. and a revamped menu. Highlights the whole peeled tomato
WORDS: SHIVANI VORA

Tapas from AED 14; LAMBUZO include octopus Galician-style, marinated overnight in tomato
0034-914-48 2033 Plates from the south-west city of morcilla (black pudding) from juice, sugar and salt; and, to
Cdiz are the focus, including tapas Burgos, lamb chops, roast lamb nish, silky an.
LA CONTRASEA such as deep-fried anchovies with Segovia-style and seafood paella. Tapas from AED 15; 0034-
This tapas bar and restaurant has lemon, potato salad with tuna and Entres from AED 15; 0034-914-42 917-52 6106, academiadeldespiece.
fast become a neighbourhood several varieties of croquettes. If 5884, losarcosdeponzano.es com/sala-de-despiece

52 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


Infinity Pool

Sulu Terrace Bedroom Amphitheater Meditation

Start a new journey this year


Few hotels make a fresh start as enticing as The Farm at San Benito. An ultra-luxe wellness
retreat in a pristine natural setting, its world-class spa facilities, award-winning food and exqui-
site villas make your healing journey heavenly. With private massage pavilions in lush tropical
gardens, heated infinity pools and enchanting views, theres nowhere else on earth quite like
this Philippine hideaway, which is precisely why its a member of Luxury Hotels Group.

Check in with us:


www. luxuryhotelsgroup.com
Call: +44 (0) 203 540 0379
Email: info@luxuryhotelsgroup.com

@LuxHotelsGroup Luxury-Hotels-Group
TRAVELLER PROMOTION

CONTEMPORARY
STAY
Business meets pleasure for new-generation
travellers at the modern and stylish
Roseate House New Delhi

N
estled amid the corporate or grab a classic cocktail at modern
hubs and entertainment bar Chidya Ghar. Fine-dining Indian
centres of Delhi and Gurgaon, restaurant Kheer offers a combination
Roseate House New Delhi of traditional Northern Frontier cooking From top: Roasted by
is designed to meet the evolving needs and Delhi street food, and the patisserie Roseate features teas
of new-generation travellers. Spread Roasted by Roseate is the place for from across the globe;
indulge and unwind in
across an area of 1.6 acres, the upscale pastries and teas from across the globe. one of Aheli Spas indoor
property features 216 spacious, plush The relaxing Aheli Spa is another treatment suites; relax by
the rooftop innity pool
rooms including the Presidential suite highlight, offering four therapy rooms
and an opulent 500sqm Villa each with and indulgent treatments that blend
state-of-the-art amenities, a exible age-old and modern techniques. Other
workstation, high-speed internet and recreational facilities include a 24-hour
luxe toiletries. gym, an outdoor innity pool and a
Dining at Roseate House New Delhi modern cinema hall.
is a culinary delight, with ve restaurants With its exceptional service and
and lounges drawing on both local and new-age perspective on hospitality,
international avours. Enjoy an al fresco Roseate House New Delhi is ideal for
experience at world cuisine bistro DEL, contemporary travellers.

For more information, call 0091-11-7155 8800 or visit roseatehotels.com


WHERE
TO STAY
HOTEL EXCLUSIVES  MEGAN HESS  MELBOURNE
a
ROOMS
THE BUSIN

SMART
E S S O F TR

From virtual golf courses to


AVEL

holograms in meeting rooms,


the innovative services at these
hotels will appeal to business
travellers and the tech-savvy

W DOHA HOTEL &


RESIDENCES
1 One of the rst hotels in the
Middle East to incorporate
cutting-edge tech into its guest experience,
the W Doha Hotel & Residences
continues to develop new ideas,
particularly in mobile technology. Before
you arrive, the hotel welcomes bookings
through Twitter, Facebook and Instagram,
and in 2014 it launched the SPG Keyless
system, turning guests smartphones
always on hand into room keys. Other
techy features include high-speed Wi-Fi
throughout, as well as IP phones and
NEOS interactive TVs in guest rooms.
Guests can communicate for services via
WhatsApp rather than dialling a number, or
use the W Hotels iPhone app, which allows
easy access to social media and provides
detailed information about both the hotel
and the local area. The app can also be
used to order from the in-room dining
WORDS: PAMELA WILKES

menu, charging to the room, or simply click


on the I Need tab to request additional
towels and other such services.
Doubles from AED 970; 00974-4453 5000,
whoteldoha.com

W Doha's
futuristic salon FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 57
Electronically adjustable Swedish Hstens beds with a range of
HOTEL 1000, SEATTLE NH COLLECTION
Located in the heart of downtown Seattle EUROBUILDING, MADRID
2 and overlooking the waterfront along
3 Its not only the key location at the
Elliott Bay, Hotel 1000 has some novel heart of the nancial district, on the same
innovations when it comes to technology. Business street as the Santiago Bernabu stadium that draws
travellers will naturally appreciate the complimentary business travellers to this hotel but its futuristic meeting
bre optic internet and the free domestic and facilities, which are almost out of this world. The
international calls from the dual-line VOIP phones hotels commitment to the latest tech is evident from
in every guest room. And then theres the next level. the moment you arrive: the vaulted ceiling in the
From the minibar that automatically alerts the front lobby is, at 300sqm, Europes largest multimedia vault
desk that it needs restocking to the smart climate screen projecting 3D images, photographs and videos.
control and in-room sensors that detect body heat But its in the 35 naturally lit function rooms with 3D
so housekeeping wont disturb your beauty sleep audiovisual technology where the magic really happens.
by knocking at inopportune moments, the hotels Using state-of-the-art 3D holographic projection, users
use of tech is both quirky and practical. For those can participate and interact virtually from multiple
used to hitting the green after a days work or locations, anywhere in the world, in real time. And with
striking deals between holes the virtual golf the Lync online remote videoconferencing system, up to
experience at the hotels golf club is just the 250 people can join a meeting or presentation remotely.
ticket. Over 50 of the worlds best courses can The hotel is also home to the Living Lab, the NH Hotel
be played, without battling the elements, and the Groups tech testing-ground, where the latest hotel
concierge can even arrange a tournament, complete industry innovations are trialled in the communal areas
with refreshments at the 19th hole. and in four Living Lab bedrooms.
Doubles from AED 825; 001-877-315 1088, Doubles from AED 615; 0034-91-398 4661, nh-collection.
hotel1000seattle.com com/hotel/nh-collection-madrid-eurobuilding

58 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


TECH HOTELS

massage settings are the antidote to a full day in the boardroom


THE PENINSULA TOKYO ECCLESTON SQUARE
A full range of in-room services is, literally,
5 HOTEL, LONDON
4 at your ngertips at The Peninsula Few things are more traditional than the
Tokyo. The interactive digital bedside 19th-century Grade II listed faade of
control panel, pre-set in 11 languages, controls every this boutique bolthole, set on a quintessential garden
room function, from the temperature and lights to the square on the border of Belgravia and Westminster. But
alarm clock and curtains. If the outside temperature appearances can deceive: behind the wrought iron and
and humidity displayed on the weather panel on the leaded glass door youll nd one of the most high-tech
dressing table next to the built-in nail dryer arent to hotels in the capital. The Italian linens, LOccitane
your liking, stay in and relax with mood lighting, black- products and complimentary 24-hour tea service in guest
out window screens and the 42in plasma TV or one of rooms set the tone, but comfort levels are enhanced by
the 3,000 internet radio stations available. Mood lighting electronically adjustable Swedish Hstens beds with a
also features in the marble bathroom, along with a 15in range of massage settings the antidote to a full day in
at-screen TV and a hands-free telephone. Business the boardroom and smart-glass shower walls that
is easy to conduct with high-speed internet access, switch from clear to frosted at the touch of a button.
dual-line telephones with voicemail system, speaker From left: Virtual Theres a 46in HD 3D Neo Plasma Panasonic TV,
function and complimentary international VOIP calls as golf at Hotel 1000; plus at-screens concealed in the bathroom mirrors
well as an in-room fax machine with a private number. a 3D holographic and a complimentary 3D DVD library. The in-room
projection on the
And for some post-work entertainment, last year the lobby ceiling of iPad 2 is a digital concierge, from which to order room
Pokmon Company designed a digitally interactive NH Collection service or browse the internet using the high-speed bre
experience exclusively for the hotel. Guests of all ages Eurobuilding; high- optic Wi-Fi. Best of all, the hotel provides each guest
tech rooms at
can experience Pokmon Hotel Adventure: The Power The Peninsula
with a HANDY smartphone that offers free local and
of Ten, a hotel-wide quest for Pokmon characters, and Tokyo overlook international calls to select countries, unlimited mobile
for those playing Pokmon Go!, The Peninsula Tokyo is the city skyline; internet and a city guide so youll never get lost en
shower walls can
the location of two PokeStops. be frosted in an
route to a meeting again.
Doubles from AED 1,790; 0081-3-6270 2888, instant at Eccleston Doubles from AED 730; 0044-20-3503 0692,
tokyo.peninsula.com Square Hotel ecclestonsquarehotel.com

DECEMBER
FEBRUARY 2016
2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 59
EXCLUSIVE
F I R ST R E V I E W

KK BEACH
JENNY JOHNSON checks in to a contemporary new
beach retreat on Sri Lankas south coast

A
YUBOWAN.
THIS IS THE FRIENDLY GREETING IM full-length sliding glass panels and a private outdoor terrace
met with on arrival at boutique property KK overlooking the pool, the beach and the Indian Ocean beyond.
Beach, the latest stylish offering by award- Theres a feel of being in a private retreat, with an al fresco open-
winning interior designer George Cooper plan ground oor featuring the laid-back Living Room and Bar,
whose much-loved jungle property Kahanda and the Beach Club restaurant where guests can enjoy seafood
Kanda (known to regulars simply as KK) barbecues, classic Sri Lankan curries and creative three-course
recently celebrated 10 years. menus utilising fresh local ingredients.
I found that many guests at KK wanted The sense of place is further cemented by the rotating display
to go to the beach for the day rather than of paintings commissioned from Sri Lankan artists and available for
staying inland for the whole trip, so I decided that rather than purchase, and by the beach chic homeware, from seashell cushions to
sending them to other properties we would build our own and pineapple ornaments, curated by Cooper for the hotel as well as for
we did, from scratch, in just nine months, says Cooper. With his cult Galle Fort boutiques, KK The Collection and the new KK
KK Beach I wanted something fresh, younger and more informal by George. Perched on tranquil Habaraduwa beach 12km along
because its by the sea. Its about personality, individuality, the coast from the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Galle Fort
character and personalised service, where the staff know you by KK Beach is just steps from the golden sand yet the 20m black slate
name and not just a room number. pool and comfy sun loungers are separated by a manicured garden
This is made easier, perhaps, by the fact that there are just two and wooden fence for that sense of seclusion and exclusivity. While
deluxe rooms, two suites and two penthouses (with four more due the petite property doesnt have a dedicated spa, massages can be
to be built starting on May 1). Each comes with Mediterranean- booked in the privacy of your suite, and yoga classes are held three
inspired dcor, a well-appointed bathroom with a rain shower, times a week at 8am to help you relax and rejuvenate.

60 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


CNT EXCLUSIVE

Clockwise from
right: Curated
design objects;
the 20m pool;
Habaraduwa
beach; modern
dcor in Penthouse
II. Opposite: The
Living Room and
Bar overlooks the
pool and ocean

Its about personality,


individuality, character
and personalised service,
where the staff know you
by name and not just
a room number

Should you choose to venture out, the hotel can arrange


tours in the area such as tea trail experiences, where you can
pluck your own leaves and see them being processed at the local
factory; an excursion off the coast to spot blue whales and
spinner dolphins; and a Koggala Lake boat trip with stops at
a temple island, a sh spa, a bird sanctuary and a small island
where you learn how cinnamon is harvested.
A free shuttle is offered between KK Beach and sister
property Kahanda Kanda, just a 12-minute drive away on
a working tea plantation overlooking Koggala Lake, allowing
guests to take advantage of the facilities at both properties. I
signed up for a traditional Sri Lankan cooking class at the original
KK, where we learnt to make sh and aubergine curries and dal,
all using spices grown on the island, before tasting the fruits of my
labour in the natural surrounds of the restaurant.
With the addition of KK Beach, the brand now offers the
ultimate beach-meets-jungle experience for those who want to
explore more than one side of this tropical island nation.
Scott Dunn (800-035-70 3722; scottdunn.com) offers a seven-night stay
at KK Beach on a bed and breakfast basis, including ights from the GCC
and private transfers, from AED 7,350

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 61


EXCLUSIVE
F I R ST R E V I E W

N I K K I BE ACH
RESORT & SPA DUBAI
PAMELA WILKES explores Dubais new coastal-cool kid on the block

I
TS HARD TO DRAW MY GAZE AWAY FROM THE TURQUOISE WATERS scatter cushions and soft throws make it feel like home. Bathrooms
and white-crested waves of the Arabian Gulf. This is the vista are kitted out with slate tiles, frosted glass and oversized facilities,
from most of the rooms and communal spaces at Dubais newly from the cavernous walk-in shower to the free-standing bath you
opened Nikki Beach Resort & Spa: the ocean stretching away could get lost in. Control the adjustable mood lighting from
to the horizon until it meets the vast, impossibly blue sky. a handy panel by the bed, and every room has an interactive
I feel instantly relaxed, and its clear from the warm television for information about the hotel as well as the latest
demeanour of the friendly staff that the sea works its movies on demand, Apple TV for streaming from your personal
soothing magic on them, too. device and international radio and TV channels. Though, to be
Situated on the edge of The Pearl, Jumeira, a reclaimed honest, the lure of unplugging and curling up on my balcony
island off Dubais coast, this is the fourth Nikki Beach Resort to sofa was too hard to resist. I gave in and settled down with a pot
open globally and the groups rst hotel in the Middle East, adding of tea several loose-leaf varieties are provided in cute tins
to the popular Nikki Beach Dubai beach club which opened last to watch surfers dance across the waves.
PHOTOS: AASIYAH JAGADEESH

year. Reecting its waterfront location, the hotel is all about open Guests at the resort can enjoy the facilities at the stylish
spaces, pale woods and shades of soft blue, aquamarine, white beach club, a short stroll along the sand from the main hotel,
and sandy neutrals. And glass so much glass. Imagine combining but the resort also has its own heated pools and sun deck,
a generous helping of The Hamptons beach chic with a dash of reserved for guests and offering a more tranquil alternative.
Hawaii surf cool and a contemporary urban twist that is pure Maximise the chilled-out vibe with a massage at Nikki Spa,
Dubai, and you get the idea. or just relax in a beachfront cabana, listening to the music that
In the 117 bright and spacious rooms and suites and 15 beach gently hums from hidden speakers and the murmur of the waves
villas, oor-to-ceiling windows open on to private balconies and lapping the shore. For more active types, the long expanse of
soothing coastal dcor brings the outside in. Azure and white sand is arguably the best surng beach in Dubai and a water-

62 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


CNT EXCLUSIVE

From top: Chef


Brendan McGowan
in action; all rooms
and suites come with
Arabian Gulf views.
Opposite: The coast
is ideal for surng

Imagine combining The Hamptons Clockwise from top


beach chic with a dash of Hawaii right: Relax by the
pool; the elegant
surf cool and a contemporary lobby; a mural at
Caf Nikki
urban twist that is pure Dubai,
and you get the idea
sports programme is in development, to complement the state-of- gooey lling to dainty discs of French toast and Kilner jars of
the-art facilities in the resorts Tone Gym. creamy scrambled eggs topped with warm salmon and avocado.
Caf Nikki is an airy and bright all-day urban bistro. An inviting If youre worried about overindulging, just blame all that sea air.
space, where you can while away the hours amidst the soft greys The Soul Lounge, at the heart of the hotel, is hipster cool
and monochrome murals, with an open kitchen at one end and and the ideal spot to watch the world go by over a creative
those compelling views again at the other. Led by chef Brendan cocktail or mocktail, with chill-out tunes and beachfront views
McGowan, director of culinary creations, the focus is on fresh, local during the day and upbeat DJ mixes and the ickering glow
and sustainably sourced food, working closely with suppliers such of ery terrace heaters once the sun goes down. For a livelier
as Greenheart Organic Farms UAE. Signature dishes include scene, the beach club menus feature global dishes, the tastes
seafood laksa, its spices and coconut cream perfectly balanced and spices representing countries where Nikki Beach outposts
and each bowl bursting with fresh prawns, mussels, king crab are located, and hit Nikki Priv lounge to party the night away.
and scallops; lobster and artichoke linguine; and succulent corn- Floridian-, Caribbean- and Latin-inspired restaurant Key West
fed chicken la plancha with aromatic tarragon jus. The globally is due to open soon and is poised to become the go-to for
inspired cuisine includes regional ingredients such as dates, sundowners followed by fresh sh and signature spice-rubbed
rosewater and pistachios used creatively to give a sense of grills made in a Josper oven.
place, and I can attest to the moreish nature of the BBQ camel This spot on The Pearl, Jumeira is only minutes from the heart
atbread with its UAE sumac honey glaze. of the city. But facing the sea, the resort transports you to a place
Breakfast is another tour de force, from the delicate brioche with far, far away, where troubles simply melt away.
a hint of rosewater and sumptuous treats crafted by the French The Nikki Beach tag line exhorts guests to tell only your best
pastry chef think almond croissants with layers of light, aky, friends; cant we just keep it between us instead?
buttery pastry, yet satisfyingly weighty thanks to the generous Doubles from AED 1,560; 00971-4-376 6000, nikkibeachhotels.com

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 63


WHERE TO STAY

BED-HOPPING WITH...
Megan Hess
The international fashion illustrator shares
her favourite iconic hotels in stylish cities

PARIS
JLE BRISTOL
This hotel is quintessentially French, and incredible
during Fashion Week with a wonderful Fashion
CAP DA NTIBES High Tea. Its full of Parisian charm, from the red
HTEL DU CAP-EDEN-ROC
K poppies in the hedges along the faade of the
During the Cannes Film Festival, building to the beautiful bellhops inside here,
youre likely to bump into movie I really feel like Ive arrived in Paris.
stars in the lift down to the lobby, Doubles from AED 3,600;
whether its George Clooney 0033-1-5343 4300, lebristolparis.com
or Robert De Niro or another
famous face. I love illustrating
interesting people and this hotel


is great for people-watching.
They also have a lounge offering
drinks with fabulous views. I love LO N D O N
Doubles from AED 2,160; 0033-4- illustrating THE LANESBOROUGH

9361 3901, hotel-du-cap-eden-roc. I love staying here. Theres
com (reopening April 14) interesting a lot of heritage and
people and history at this hotel. Its
also very fancy; every
this hotel room comes with its own
is great for butler. Theres great cuisine
in the restaurants, which
people-
MOROCCO are beautiful with a very
watching English design and edge.
Doubles from AED 2,075;
0044-20-7259 5599,
lanesborough.com

INTERVIEW: RHEA SARAN; PHOTO: ETHAN MANN


NEW YORK
THE PLAZA
K
I grew up reading the Eloise
storybooks set in The Plaza,
so its a very special location.
Its a bit of an institution and
being right on Central Park
and Fifth Avenue, you could DUBAI
walk out on any day and IFAIRMONT THE PALM
see a horse-drawn carriage, Its where Ive always stayed when in this city. The service is
which offers that romantic warm and inviting, with dates, beautiful owers and coffee on
New York feel. arrival. And the beaches, pools and resort surroundings make
Doubles from AED my heart rate relax from the minute I check in.
2,480; 001-212-759 3000, Doubles from AED 1,450; 00971-4-457 3388,
theplazany.com fairmont.com/palm-dubai

64 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


JW MARRIOT T MARQUIS DUBAI

Elegance Without Pretence


at the world's tallest hotel.
The stunning JW Penthouse Suite and Marquis Penthouse Suite
present two levels of impeccably designed spaces. The suites are
contemporary with a touch of traditional Arabic design.
PENTHOUSE SUITE FEATURES

  
 

1 master bedroom with a walk-in wardrobe, 1 twin bedroom,
1 living room, 1 kitchenette, 1 study, 1 dining room, 1 majlis foyer area,
1 private spa room where in-room spa treatments are available upon
request and 3 bathrooms with an integrated steam sauna.

GUEST SERVICES
Complimentary return airport transfer in a private limousine
Private check-in within the Suite
24 hour butler service upon request
Access to 24 hour Executive Lounge and 24 hour Concierge services

For reservations or inquiries, please visit


jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com or call +971 4 414 0000

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971 4 414 0000, F +971 4 414 0001 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com
JW Marriott Marquis Dubai I @JWDubaiMarquis I jwmarriottmarquisdubai
MELBOURNE Five stylish places to stay in

UP IN
THE AIR

When it opens,
PRIVATE HISTORIC
the Ritz-Carlton
INTERCONTINENTAL
will anchor West THE LYALL HOTEL AND SPA MELBOURNE THE RIALTO
Side Place and Location In the central South Yarra District, In the central business district, surrounded
close to top restaurants, galleries
ries by resta
restaurants and nancial rms. The
become the and boutiques as well as the Yarra
Yarr River and Flinders Street
tallest hotel in Australian Open courts Station
St are both walking distance

Australia. Its Dcor Set in a remodelled town Composed


C of two n de sicle
house, modern interiors Gothic buildings, linked by
263 suites will mix Eastern style with the a central glass atrium. The
atmosphere of a private original
o red brickwork
occupy the top members club, complete with is complemented by
17 oors of a replace, art gallery and library
ry contemporary
con artworks

an impressive Clientele Fashionistas, families, long-term residents Those prone to nostalgia, foodies,
and celebrities seeking sanctuary from business people
81-storey tower. the public eye

Guests will Rooms 40 suites equipped with Australian-made Theres a fusion of contemporary and
enter the hotel furniture, private balconies and gourmet traditional styles in the 253 rooms. Suites
minibars. Bathrooms have heated oors are themed around the Great Ocean
via the porte- and anti-fog mirrors. Platinum suites Road, Melbourne and the Yarra Valley
come with replaces
cochre and
Food & The elegant yet relaxed Bistro Lyall Many of Alluvials ingredientss
take an elevator Drink makes use of seasonal ingredients in its come from the hotels roof
straight to the contemporary cuisine. Taste different garden. The Market Lane
French labels at the bubbly bar alongside Bar is good for afternoon
sky check-in on custom cocktails tea, coffee and malts

level 79, offering Strengths Guests can borrow bicycles free Service and dining are
of charge, and enjoy discounts at exceptional; the glass-
panoramic neighbouring stores. Sodashi products roofed swimming pool
views across are used at the three-oor spa is dreamlike
Weaknesses Service at breakfast can be Soundproong in the rooms is
Melbournes slow; mattresses in the double average and most are inward facing,
CBD and rooms are too narrow with a lack of views and privacy

beyond. Wi-Fi Free Free


Price Doubles from AED 685 Doubles from AED 775
ritzcarlton.com
Contact 16 Murphy Street; 0061-3-9868 8222, 495 Collins Street; 0061-3-8627 1400,
thelyall.com melbourne.intercontinental.com

66 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


ROOM SERVICE

Australias artsy hub

BUSINESS SUMPTUOUS CREATIVE

SOFITEL MELBOURNE CROWN TOWERS ART SERIES -


ON COLLINS MELBOURNE THE LARWILL STUDIO
At the Paris End of Collins Street, Situated on the south bank of the Yarra In the suburb of Parkville, a hop
lined with luxury stores, boutiques, River, surrounded by dense greenery. away from the CBD, the zoo,
restaurants, galleries and gardens Markets, Melbournes art district and the Queen Victoria Market and
National Gallery of Victoria are nearby Melbourne University

Perched atop a tall tower in Collins The theatre-like entrance A modern glass wing with industrial,
Square, the hotels interior is replete in is lined with black marble, playful interiors inspired by Australian
American oak, mirrors, hand-made Italian birdcage-style chandeliers artist David Larwill
chandeliers and French element lamps and a lobby done up with
lemon-yellow carpets

Well-attired business people,e, Celebrities


Cele like Roger The trendy young clientele includes
couples and ladies of leisure Federer and
Fe designers, architects and other creatives
enjoying afternoon tea Novak Djokovic
N

The 363 rooms are all Rooms look out toward Each room is kitted out in
above the 36th oor, t
the city skyline and the bay. artworks, Art Series
with excellent views of Villa-style suites take inspiration
V Signature bedding, a
the Royal Botanic Garden from
fro private residences and quote-inspired pillow
and Port Phillip Bay come with butlers and EVO bath amenities

Enjoy innovative cuisine with a view There are 14 food and drink options. Smith+Singleton
at No 35, on the 35th oor. Stop Nobu serves cutting-edge Japanese features an international
WORDS: VINCENT WANG; PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, ALAMY

for cocktails at the Atrium Bar and cuisine, Silks specialises in Chinese food menu that draws on
afternoon tea at Sos Lounge and the steak at Rockpool and the inuences from Europe,
porchetta at Rosetta are unmissable Asia and the Middle East

Ideal location and scenic views; good Impeccable service at the Crystal Club; Eco-friendly Smart Cars and Lekker
meeting and events facilities. The a fully equipped spa centre; helicopter bikes rental. Staff are friendly
architectural space designed by I.M. Pei tours are provided and helpful
is magnicent
No swimming pool. Wi-Fi is not included Room service is quite pricey. The free No free bottled water
and is pricey internet can only be used on two devices

AED 105 for 24 hours Free Free


Doubles from AED 925 Doubles from AED 1,065 Doubles from AED 530
25 Collins Street; 0061-3-9653 0000, 8 Whiteman Street; 0061-3-9292 8888, 48 Flemington Road; 0061-3-9032 9111,
sotel.com crownhotels.com.au artserieshotels.com.au/larwill

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 67


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

WALK

PHOTOS: AASIYA JAGADEESH


THIS WAY
Check in to the stylish new La Ville Hotel & Suites
in Dubais urban living destination, CITY WALK

T
he sense of space and taken in from the large freestanding bath indoor spaces and a focus on healthy
tranquillity at La Ville Hotel in the marble bathroom. The 180sqm and thoughtfully sourced produce, some
& Suites belies its enviable Penthouse Suite, with a private dining of which is grown in the restaurant.
location in the heart of area, features a terrace and oor-to- Gastro-grill Graze features prime cuts
one of Dubais coolest hoods, with Burj ceiling windows to maximise its city and seafood, cooked to guests liking
Khalifa views and all the retail, dining skyline and coastal views. in a Josper oven and enjoyed on its
and entertainment facilities of Dubais A strong focus on food makes large outdoor terrace.
CITY WALK on its doorstep. The rst the hotels restaurants and bars a At sociable Grapeskin, the stand-
hotel to open in this area, its the second destination for dining. The outlets, alone two-level grape bar and kitchen
property to be added to Marriots headed by chef Pedro Joaqun Arceyut with industrial dcor and a dedicated
portfolio of independent Autograph Araya, are based around a leafy central entrance, guests can share platters,
Collection hotels in Dubai. courtyard, accessible from CITY WALK order hops from the whatever tap and
The 88 light and spacious guest and ideal for al fresco dining. The choose grape by the glass to suit their
rooms and suites epitomise city 24-hour Lobby Caf features soothing mood, assisted by the knowledgeable
chic crisp linens in neutral tones, natural-hued dcor and, at one end, sommelier. Or relax on the rooftop by
contemporary monochrome wall art three enormous bookcases swing open the innity pool at LookUp bar, with From top: The hotels central
and Illy coffee machines are standard. to reveal a hidden caf. Bright and creative cocktails, live DJ acts and courtyard, perfect for al fresco
dining; a contemporary and chic
Many enjoy uninterrupted views of the airy Chival offers all-day dining, with a panoramic views of the Burj Khalifa, guest room; beetroot salad at
Burj Khalifa; in some, the view can be seamless blend between outdoor and Dubai skyline and Arabian Sea. Chival. Opposite: The Lobby Caf

For more information call 00971-4-403 3111 or visit livelaville.com


OPINION

The debate
Would you take a cruise?

YES NO
AHMED M. SOLIMAN MICHELLE KUEHN
Managing director, TCApr Managing partner & co-founder, The Media Network
Having travelled on the worlds biggest cruise liner, I can say As an avid traveller Im always up for trying new things, so
it was not just enormous in size but in pleasure, variety and when someone suggested a cruise as an easy way to get around
convenience as well. If waking up in a new port every day isnt the Caribbean, it seemed worth a shot. What I discovered is that
enough for the intrepid explorer, theres the added bonus of you only get a glimpse of each stop, after being crammed into
getting to bypass the tedious tasks of unpacking, repacking little boats and met by overpriced tour guides at the port and
and toting luggage around that multi-destination travel usually hounded to buy stuff or you book a pre-arranged excursion
entails. Once youre on land, there are often special excursions with the cruise line, which costs 10 times the actual price. On
that take you into the core of the city or help you make the average, we had no more than six hours at each stop, which
most of the culture on offer. And for those who believe that limits your ability to do much as youre too worried about
travel is all about the journey, cruising could hardly be more missing boarding time and being left stranded while your
ideal. Cruise ships are more than just a vessel with cabins to luggage sails on without you. Most of our time on board was
lay your head; theyre veritable oating cities, with everything spent queuing at the buffet, which lacked variety and freshness,
ILLUSTRATION: LOU FAY

from Broadway shows and Duty Free shopping to activities for attending subpar shows, failing to nd an available sunbed on
thrill seekers and ne-dining restaurants by well-known chefs. the deck or playing bingo with the over-60s crowd which,
And for travelling families, they can be the solution to keeping when I won, was the highlight of my trip. I already nd the
a multi-generational group happy, from your tots to Grandma. concept of being trapped in a plane surrounded by strangers
Various kids clubs cater to different ages, giving the adults and served pre-packaged meals an odd human experiment, but
much-appreciated time to spend together, whether thats at put even more people on a giant, rocking ship in the middle of
a romantic dinner, the spa or simply lounging poolside. the ocean and its enough to send me overboard.

70 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


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TRAVEL
IN STYLE
STYLE GUIDE HOW TO PACK JANUARY JONES

PHOTOS: THEAPARTMENT.DK

Chez Marie-Sixtine in Paris


Opposite: Copenhagens
The Apartment boutique
will soon add a at
APARTMENT SHOPS
Not everything here is quite as it seems. The apartment pictured on the left is really
part of a shop, but you can sleep in it overnight and buy everything on show. Elsewhere
in the world, shops are being unveiled that look exactly like apartments but no one
can actually stay in. Sounds confusing? We untangle the new fangled

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 73


The apartments
WHO THINK THEYRE SHOPS
Anyone whos ever had a shop closed for
private peeking will know the thrill of
out-of-hours browsing. It was traditionally
the privilege of mega-bucks stores and
their customers, but now a new breed of
independent shop-turned-innkeeper is
putting a fresh spin on the idea of a lifestyle
brand, enhancing smart design boutiques
with matching accommodation. At Chez
Marie-Sixtine (doubles from AED 1,630;
marie-sixtine.com), a pretty pale-grey-and-
pastel Parisian bolthole styled by the
eponymous French womenswear label, there
are textured chunky rugs and throws over the
bed as well as pop-up knitting workshops and
yoga sessions. In Amsterdam, fashion stylist
Ulrika Lundgren has topped her gallery/ Clockwise from top
interiors store in a canal-side townhouse with left: The kitchen area at
a two-bedroom guesthouse, Maison Rika Venice Beachs Shelter
(doubles from AED 1,180; 0031-6-4610 9036, Half; design store Caro
in Somerset; French-
rikastudios.com) designed using her trademark designed furniture
black-and-cream colour scheme. Theres a for sale at The Red
similar vibe at The Apartment (0045-31- Apartment in Paris
62 0402, theapartment.dk) in Copenhagen,
where the by-appointment shop will soon be
accompanied by a 180sqm at, multi-tasking
as an additional showspace for the Danish
furnishings and contemporary artwork. In
Somerset, Natalie Jones recently opened
Caro (doubles from AED 540; 0044-1749-81
3931, carosomerset.com), a design store and
B&B in an 18th-century cottage, where
enticing concrete planters, neon matchboxes
and notebooks set the tone for a lovely, lo-
guest bedroom channelling Jones Scandi-
meets-English-country aesthetic. Over in
America, craft lover Erin Austen Abbott
has kitted out an apartment (from AED
750; airbnb.com/rooms/10537024) with the

74 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


SHOPPING

Clockwise from handicrafts and decorative art she sells from


left: Quirky dcor at Amelia (001-901-355 0311, ameliapresents.com)
Amsterdams Maison
Rika; The Apartments in Oxford, Mississippi, and in Venice Beach,
Danish furnishings; California, the earthy, sustainable style of
textured art at Chez Shelter Half (from AED 8,200 for two nights
Marie-Sixtine in Paris
minimum stay; shelterhalf.com), a marketplace
for artisans, has been reinvented as a wood-
clad rental. It sleeps four and comes with
hammocks, vintage surfboards and Abbot
Kinney views. - EMILY MATHIESON

The shops
WHO THINK THEYRE APARTMENTS
On the ip side of this trend are a clutch
of stylishly done-out places that are
actually carefully curated concept stores,
with crockery collections on the kitchen
A NEW BREED shelves and clothes (tags on, of course)
hanging in the wardrobe. Originally an
OF SHOP-TURNED- online-only lifestyle boutique, The Line
INKEEPER IS translated its tightly edited aesthetic into
ENHANCING The Apartment by The Line (bucket bags
SMART BOUTIQUES from AED 3,490; 001-917-460 7196, theline.
WITH MATCHING com), rst as a one-bedder on New Yorks
Greene Street, followed by a light-lled
ACCOMMODATION home on Los Angeles Melrose Place.
These one-stop showroom-stores are laid
out like the home of The Lines imagined
best customer: a bucket bag from PB 0110
hanging by the door, linen sheets by its
own brand Tenfold on the bed, artworks
from the Feldschuh Gallery on walls, even
Couto toothpaste by the sink all for sale.
In downtown Toronto, The Apt by 800
Sq Ft (Turkish cotton towels from AED 185;
001-647-951 8110, 800sqft.com) works a
similar concept, changing its dcor and
stock seasonally. Texas has Friends &
Neighbors (beauty products from AED 52;
friendsaustin.com), a shoppable bungalow
in hipster East Austin. In the bathroom,
there are natural beauty products from
Wildcare and Fat and the Moon, with pop-
ups from indie designers in the bedrooms
and a kitchen that serves as a caf. The
Those cold-press-juice-bar-xie-bike-shop-thrift-store-vinyl-factory Red Apartment (sofas from AED 6,780;
hybrids are neat, but isnt it refreshing when dudes just do one thing? 0033-1-43-37 0287, rededition.com) in the
Marais is home to the Parisian furniture
Adam Smith fretted about the division of labour in 1776. Things have got steadily worse studio Red Editions own Mid-Century-
ever since, as jobs have been broken down into more specialised tasks performed by more inspired sofas and tables, as well as vintage
specialised workers. This is not without its upside. Just ask Katy Perrys music-video dress ea-market nds and other design pieces
adjuster, or the expert on chocolate-avoured craft hops, or any one of Queen Elizabeths all to browse over fresh coffee. At Samuji
crack squad of corgi wranglers. As consumers, too, we benet from specialisation in all sorts House (vases from AED 1,210; 00358-50-
of ways. There is something magical about Luvaria Ulisses (gloves from AED 240; 00351-21- 308 2868, samuji.com) in Helsinki, the
342 0295, luvariaulisses.com), for example, a boutique in Lisbon that sells nothing but gloves. Finnish fashion label displays womenswear
Gammarelli (socks from AED 80; 0039-06-6880 1314, gammarelli.com), near the Vatican, alongside its new Koti homewares range,
must hold a similar appeal it has supplied knee-high red socks to successive popes since which includes blown-glass vases and
His Holiness only knows when. Next stop: Tadafusa (knives from AED 265; 0081-256-32 2184, wooden cutting boards, from a two-storey
tadafusa.com) in Sanjo, Japan, for the perfect knife for preparing sushi. - STEVE KING apartment in a courtyard building in the
heart of the city. - FIONA KERR

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 75


1

KEEP
3

IT
BRIEF Sleek leather business cases
guard your documents
when youre on the go

1 Luca business bag, AED 2,950, Aigner 2 EMio Venezia scritto leather briefcase, AED 12,800, Berluti 3 Meisterstck Selection Sfumato document case, AED 6,800,
Montblanc 4 Belgrave document holder in oxblood, AED 4,770, Mulberry 5 Document holder, AED 2,130, Longchamp 6 Sawyer brief, AED 4,000, Tumi

76 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


STYLE: CHLOE BOSHER; PHOTO: EFRAIM EVIDOR

5
4

6
LUGGAGE
Beauty
and...
With delicate diamond-
studded creations on your wrist,
every second is a pleasure

STYLE: ANDRS ACOSTA; PHOTO: MARCELA CABAL; PROP STYLIST: OLGA MORENO; ALL PRICES AVAILABLE ON REQUEST
4

1 Chronographe
Flyback Grande Date
with a rose gold
case encircled by
5 diamonds, Blancpain
2 Cl de Cartier
watch in white gold
with diamonds and
an alligator-skin
strap, Cartier
3 Diamond Ribbon,
Patek Philippe
4 Datejust 36 in steel
and white gold with
a diamond bezel
and mother of pearl
and diamond dial,
Rolex 5 Historiador
Lady in diamonds
and mother of pearl,
Cuervo y Sobrinos

78 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


WATCHES

...the
Beast
Timepieces that are strong and
sturdy yet classic and elegant

1 Classic Fusion
Black Magic 44mm
watch, Hublot
5 2 Carrera Calibre
Heuer 01 Automatic
Chronograph
45mm, Tag Heuer
3 Pelagos 42mm
watch with a titanium
case and strap,
Tudor 4 Diagono
Magnesium, Bulgari
5 Seamaster Ploprof
1200m Co-Axial
Master Chronometer,
Omega

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 79


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

TAKE
A BREAK
Experience world-class meeting facilities then relax
in style at the iconic St. Regis Doha

I
n the heart of Dohas West Bay, by Gordon Ramsay as well as New York
part of the Al Gassar Resort and steakhouse Astor Grill and the newly
From top: The adjacent to the Pearl Island, opened Raw Bar.
property is home to
an Olympic-size pool; lies the elegant St. Regis Doha, Those looking to host a meeting,
extensive conference ideally located for access to the citys exhibition, conference or social gathering
and meeting facilities;
rooms come with diplomatic area, business district are well-catered for with over 6,000sqm
Arabian Gulf views and commercial zone. of event space, including the largest
Middle Eastern-inspired archways ballroom with natural daylight in Doha
and other design features celebrate and a terrace with views over the Arabian
Qatari heritage and provide a true sense Gulf. Conveniently connected to the Al
of place, while the signature features of Gassar Centre, the property has two
the hotel group are evident throughout, large ballrooms and 20 breakout rooms
including the St. Regis Butler Service. enabling meetings of any size and
The 336 elegant guest rooms and accommodating up to 1,800 people.
suites, including two 600sqm Presidential Post-work, the hotels 16,000sqm
READER OFFER Suites, overlook the Arabian Gulf and of leisure and recreation facilities offer
blend timeless style with regional total relaxation and rejuvenation and
Guests booking two events at the St. Regis Doha
by April 30, to be held before July 31, will receive inuences. Each provides a well- include Remde Spa, with 22 treatment
100 Starpoints for every $1,000 (QAR 3,640) appointed space and amenities to help rooms and spa facilities, an Olympic-size
spent, a ve per cent discount on function you work and unwind. The property has swimming pool, a modern tness centre
spend, one complimentary menu upgrade and 12 award-winning dining venues including and a private beach with nine cabanas
a seafood night for two at Vine. Gordon Ramsay Mediterranean and Opal equipped with Jacuzzis.

For more information, email events.doha@stregis.com, call 00974-4-446 0366 or visit stregisdoha.com
HOW TO PACK

ALL THAT JAZZ


Designer and founder of eponymous Dubai-based fashion label DIMA AYAD
on stylish essentials for a trip to Chicago

W
hen the
designers
childhood friend
relocated to
the Windy City, it was only
a matter of time before she
booked a trip. The plan is
to pack light and indulge in
retail therapy given Chicagos
shopping credentials, from the
Magnicent Mile to emerging
labels in neighbourhood HOT TIP
When packing,
boutiques. Ayads sightseeing walk through your usual
uniform includes a timeless routine, picking up the
white shirt with jeans and essentials as you go, from
socks to toiletries, to
trainers, accessorised with avoid forgetting
chunky earrings and a spritz anything.
of perfume. After a quick 3
WORDS: PAMELA WILKES; STYLE: CHLOE BOSHER; PHOTO: EFRAIM EVIDOR

breakfast of churros and


chocolate at Xoco, she looks 4
forward to checking out Anish
Kapoors liquid-mercury-
inspired installation Cloud
Gate and iconic works by 5

Seurat, Hopper and the citys


own Frank Lloyd Wright at
the Art Institute of Chicago. 6
Lunch is a legendary pan pizza 7
at Peqouds Pizza, before
heading further aeld to the
lakeside Adler Planetarium. As
the sun sets, Ayads fringed
jacket and a sequinned 8

bag set the tone for a dose


of Chicagos jazz scene at
The Green Mill, the oldest
continuously run jazz club in 1 Boat-neck cotton zip shirt, AED 2,150, Isa Arfen at bysymphony.com 2 Fringed jacket, AED 2,200, Dima Ayad at
Harvey Nichols 3 Signature Court Classic sneakers, AED 1,900, Saint Laurent 4 Long beaded earrings, AED 320,
America, followed by dinner at Jessie Western at boutique1.com 5 Bose QuietComfort headphones, AED 1,450 6 Sequin drawstring bag, AED 4,900,
three-Michelin-starred Alinea. Prada 7 Rockabilly cropped jeans, AED 2,160, Balenciaga at bysymphony.com 8 Chanel No. 5 LEau, AED 686

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 81


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

EXECUTIVE
ESCAPE
Work hard and play hard at
The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain, ideal for bleisure

L
ocated on the countrys amenities, from spacious work areas to Work out any stresses at the
north coast, the Ritz-Carlton, sumptuous bathrooms. extensive tness centre, indoor and
Bahrain is 11km from the airport One of the premier business hotels outdoor pools, indoor squash court or one
and just across the road from in Bahrain, the property has some of of four tennis courts, or revive at the spa
the Bahrain International Exhibition the nest conference facilities in the with a hammam treatment or dip in the
Center making it the perfect base for a region. Fully equipped with the latest Thalassotherapy pool .
business trip but with all the facilities technology, the propertys 3,500sqm of When hunger strikes there is a
to combine the trip with some leisure conference space includes a beautiful smorgasbord of restaurants and lounges
time. The propertys 600m secluded 940sqm ballroom and a 1,428sqm to choose from including La Med for a
white sandy beach is ideal for relaxing Grand Foyer, with sound-proofed walls lavish buffet or The Ritz Gourmet Lounge, From top: The sprawling
after a busy day of meetings, while its and comfortable conference seating. specialising in old-world classics. property is set on a lagoon;
a comfortable meeting room;
lush gardens make it the perfect venue The state-of-the-art facilities are With impeccable service and a variety the lavish spa
for social occasions. The 245 rooms complemented by a team of certied of activities, the hotel is made for those
and suites offer exclusive services and conference services professionals. wanting to mix business and leisure.

For more information, call 00973-1758 0000 or visit ritzcarlton.com


TR AVEL ESSENTIAL

CNT
CLASSIC

Magichien silk twill


tie in ocean blue,
grey and azure,
AED 780, Herms

WHY
SO SERIOUS?
Ties that walk the line between
work and play

T
here was a time when
business travel meant
working through the hours
in the air then spending on-
ground time within four walls, with
conference catering representing
the local food scene. These days,
those travelling for work have
become smarter about how they
manage their schedule. Enter the
rise of bleisure an ugly word
but a wonderful concept that
WORDS: RHEA SARAN; STYLE: CHLOE BOSHER; PHOTO: EFRAIM EVIDOR

involves adding days of me-time


to business travel, making the
most of the destination beyond
the boardroom. Capture the spirit
of the trend with one of Herms
playful printed ties, which act as
a harbinger of fun times to come.
This magichien print is a witty
riff on the French word for dog
and features two canines nose-to-
nose, one a balloon dog recalling
magicians tricks at parties. Its the
perfect bridge between business
and leisure wear.

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 83


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

SPANISH
STAY
Whether travelling for business or leisure,
experience a dose of Mediterranean charm
at Meli Hotels International in Dubai and Doha

E
njoy Meli Hotels at the award-winning Yhi spa, featuring
Internationals signature the largest indoor Jacuzzi in town, then
Mediterranean hospitality refuel with award-winning contemporary
in the Middle East at Meli Indian cuisine at Signature by Sanjeev
Dubai and Meli Doha: contemporary Kapoor, international avours at all-day
urban oases in the heart of these key dining restaurant Azalya or stop in at Clockwise from top
business destinations. Alfonso X, the sushi and sashimi bar. left: The bright lobby at
Meli Doha; the hotels
Located in the cultural heart of the Come nightfall, groove to the beats of Signature by Sanjeev
city, Meli Dubai is only 10km from the the resident DJ or enjoy your drinks and Kapoor restaurant; Meli
Dubais rooftop lounge
airport, close to the World Trade Centre shisha with amazing night time views of Estrellas; an elegant guest
and with easy access to Downtown the Dubai skyline from rooftop Estrellas. room at the property
Dubai. Yet its proximity to the Gold and The stylish Meli Doha is similarly
Spice Souks and Dubai Creek gives well-located. Situated in the citys West
guests a true sense of place. The elegant Bay, its close to nancial, shopping
colour palette, with rich dark wooden and diplomatic areas, with easy
accents and warm lighting, lends an air access to the cultural attractions and
of understated urban glamour to the 164 entertainment on offer in the vibrant
well-appointed rooms and suites, which Qatari capital, including the Museum of
feature cosy seating and work areas and Islamic Art and Souq Waqif. The elevated
spacious, modern bathrooms. Meeting position of the propertys 317 spacious,
spaces include two fully equipped well-lit rooms and suites ensures Kapoor and Turkish cuisine at the
ballrooms and a spacious ballroom, memorable views of the Doha skyline new Nisantasi Baskose. The property
which seats 80 guests. With state-of- and all rooms feature contemporary offers all of the comfort, connectivity,
the-art technology, excellent acoustics Spanish design and modern amenities. catering and technology that you
and ergonomically engineered seating, Dining options include hot drinks and need in its three function rooms with
business becomes a pleasure. After a light bites at coffee shop Riqqa, Indian space for up to 60 guests and a
day of meetings, relax with a treatment fusion food at Signature by Sanjeev ballroom for up to 300 guests.

For more information, call Meli Dubai on 00971-4-386 8111, Meli Doha on 00974-4-019 9999 or visit meli.com
BEAUTY

FOR LIPS
Protect your lips from the
shrivelled-prune pout syndrome
that dry weather causes with
a daily serving of the Dior
Addict Lip Sugar Scrub. Buffed
over your mouth using a brisk
circular motion, the micro sugar
exfoliants slough away the dead
skin cells that can leave your
lips looking like lizard skin. The
grains melt away like magic,
leaving behind a plumped-up
and gleaming pout. Keep this
miracle worker close at hand to
banish weather-worn chapped
FOR HAIR lips for good and ensure your
The brutal combination of smile remains your best asset.
UV rays, humidity and air Dior Addict Lip Sugar Scrub,
conditioning can cause havoc AED 120
where your locks are concerned,
leaving you with matted, straw-
like strands that are more
Halloween than haute. Enter
the antidote to truly parched
tresses: the natural Rahua Elixir.
A daily dose of this superhero
oil massaged into the scalp and
slicked through your lengths
is akin to a spa day for your
strands. The concoction of Rahua
Ungurahua and Palo Santo IF YOU ONLY
oils, sourced from the Amazon
jungle, work overtime to give PACK 4 THINGS...
for the desert
your crowning glory back its
mirror-like shine and swish. For
foolproof protection on long,
sun-soaked days, treat your
tresses and then twist them up FOR SKIN
into a turban. The ultimate survival kit for Whether youre off exploring the
Rahua Elixir Daily Hair Drops,
AED 385
extreme climates dunes on camelback or doing a
spot of poolside posing, a slick
of superpower SPF is the most
important secret weapon in
your anti-ageing arsenal. French
WORDS: ELIZABETH WHISTON-DEW; PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

pharmacy favourite Institut


Esthederm offers the highest
protection from UVA and UVB
rays for even the most sensitive
skin. Harnessing the power of
their Global Cellular Protection
technology, this clever formula
FOR FACE safeguards against photo-ageing
For those who prefer barefaced chic, the Guerlain Terracotta Joli Teint ought to take and dark spots, not to mention
pride of place in your beauty travel kit. This skincare plus foundation hybrid make- it smells good enough to eat. A
up is designed to perk up a dull complexion in a matter of seconds while masking healthy helping applied to your
any imperfections in its wake. Smooth on the sweet-scented formula for airbrushed visage before sun exposure will
features bathed in an envy-inducing glow. This tinted skin treat not only conceals ensure you keep damaged and
in one sweep the redness, hyperpigmentation and unsightly blemishes that a harsh dehydrated skin at bay.
setting can exacerbate, it also protects the skin from sun damage with the addition Institut Esthederm Adaptasun
of an SPF 20. A brilliant one-stop beauty product with the desert rose in mind. Sensitive Skin Face Cream Strong
Guerlain Terracotta Joli Teint SPF 20, AED 200 Sun, AED 180 at cultbeauty.co.uk

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 85


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

EXOTIC
ESCAPE
On an island rich in history and natural
beauty, Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort & Spa
is a tropical sanctuary

L
ocated along a 2.5km stretch massage and the coco pearl hydrating
of powder-soft white sand facial. The spacious couples therapy suites
beach on secluded Silhouette offer unrivalled views of the slopes of Mount
Island a 20-minute helicopter Dauban or the ocean, allowing guests to
ride from Mah Hilton Seychelles Labriz relax and destress amid nature.
Resort & Spa combines ve-star service Adventurers can explore Silhouette
and amenities with the indigenous spirit Island in search of remnants of its famous
of the Seychelles. The granitic island is inhabitants, including the Dauban family,
home to just one settlement and over 92 who purchased the entire island in 1867
per cent of the island has been designated or enjoy a guided mountain walk through
a protected area, making it the ideal the jungle with the resident naturalist.
private retreat. Designed in colonial style, The 19th-century Grann Kaz plantation
the spacious, contemporary and private house currently serves as a museum
villas feature outdoor showers and wooden and authentic Creole restaurant, where
verandas with panoramic Indian Ocean you can sample the exotic avours of
and mountain views. The Deluxe Villas, set Seychelles. Other gastronomic experiences
on the hillside, beach or in the gardens, and include Italian Portobello Restaurant, with
the secluded Silhouette Estate guarantee an expansive grape cellar, and beachside
relaxation and splendour, with private pools Sakura serving sushi and East Asian
and thatched outdoor dining rooms. cuisine with a modern edge.
From top: A Deluxe
Hillside Pool Villa; a The award-winning Eforea Spa at Labriz With exquisite accommodation,
Deluxe Beachfront is designed to bring guests closer to nature, vibrant culture and exceptional service,
Pool Villa;
the secluded
with its organic treatments and techniques Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort & Spa
Silhouette Estate from around the world like the champagne is a slice of paradise.

For more information, call 00248-4-293 949 or visit hiltonseychelleslabriz.com


TASTEMAKER

MAD
ABOUT
BEAUTY
Mad Men and X-Men actress
JANUARY JONES on her in-ight
skincare regime and how she stays in shape

Do you do anything extra to get in shape before a trip?


When I take time off its spontaneous, so I never have
enough of a heads-up to get myself looking especially hot.

Wheres the best place youve travelled to for work?


Ive shot a few movies in London, including Love
Actually and X-Men, and always nd the pub atmosphere
so fun. My mums family are English, so I feel at
On a long-haul ight I leave
home there. Last time I stayed at the Covent on the cream mask for the
Garden Hotel, which is charming. whole journey it often ends
What make-up is in your hand luggage?
up on my travel pillow
Chanel mascara is the best: it doesnt leave clumps.
Cl de Peau Beaut makes a great concealer. I also keep
a Charlotte Tilbury pressed powder in my purse and
I like the By Terry tinted lip balm.

Whats your routine on a long-haul ight?


I leave on the Sisley Black Rose Cream Mask for
the whole journey, although it often ends up on my
travel pillow. Elizabeth Ardens Eight Hour Cream
is also unbeatable. getting sick. And I do love those spicy juices with ginger
INTERVIEW: TABITHA JOYCE; PHOTO: FOX VIA GETTY IMAGES

and cayenne. I think theyre good for your digestion.


Are you a spa junkie? Other than that, Im not really strict about my diet.
I adore massages; I try to get one every two weeks for
two hours. I go to a place in LA, but its a womans ofce How do you protect your hair on a ight?
its not like a spa spa. I recently went to the Montage Krastase Nutritive Masquintense is an amazing
Beverly Hills. Its beautiful. treatment after a ight when hair has dried out.

How do you stay t? What fragrance do you pack?


I hike a lot as I live in the mountains. I actually like to be I dont wear perfume a lot unless Im going out. If I do,
a little round a tiny bit fat. Although I just discovered its either Chanels Sycomore or Comme des Garons.
cardio barre: its good for toning.
Do you like to sunbathe?
Do you watch what you eat? From top: Living in LA I have to be careful because its so sunny. I
I like food a lot but I dont have a huge sweet tooth, which Krastase Nutritive enjoy going to the beach, but Im very fair so I use a Sisley
probably helps me stay in shape. Im careful in the sense Masquintense, sunscreen that I order from Europe its SPF 50+.
AED 225; Sisley
that I take lots of vitamins and eat loads of vegetables, Black Rose Cream
but thats because I have a four-year-old so Im constantly Mask, AED 580 January Jones is the face of Krastase Nutritive.

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 87


G
O
THE

PHOTO: PANKAJ ANAND; MODEL: NATALIA AT MMG MODELS; MAKE-UP: SHARON DRUGAN; HAIR: ANGEL MONTAGUE SAYERS; VIDEOGRAPHER: DOVYDAS VILIMAS
LD There are good hotels
and there are great hotels.
And then there are the
hotels around the world
that we cant help going
back to time and time
again. With the help of our
LIST

2017
global network of experts
and intrepid travellers,
weve highlighted some of
the properties we
always recommend

88 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


Taking a dip in the
innity pool on the
Burj Al Arab Terrace

Bikini top, bikini


bottoms; both
by Versace
Our
favourite
hotels in
ve of the
worlds
greatest
g
cities

LONDON
The Beaumont Mayfair
Its got so much heart and
soul and its only been open
since 2014. The interiors are
just masculine enough, and the
marble and chrome bathrooms
are super elegant. If youre
jetlagged, go straight to the
Colony Grill Room and order
the full English breakfast.
MATT HRANEK

thebeaumont.com

Claridges Mayfair
There are few things more
satisfying than getting a tray of
warm scones delivered to your
room here. ANDREA WHITTLE
claridges.co.uk

The Connaught Mayfair


All-out Mayfair charm. The
high tea is the best in town.
And dont miss the Champagne
Room, with its 40 rare vintages
served in bespoke Baccarat kind of the point. LAUREN DECARLO Bemelmans Bar anyway. That PARIS
glasses. VICTOR DE VITA dorchestercollection.com alone is reason to stay. That Four Seasons Hotel George V
the-connaught.co.uk and the monogrammed 8th arrondissement
Sunset Tower Hotel West Hollywood pillowcases. L.D. Jeff Leathams kaleidoscopic
Rosewood London Holborn Once youre there, theres rosewoodhotels.com oral installations ll the hotel
It was hard for me not to fall really no need to go elsewhere. year round. Ive never seen the
for this place especially when The staff are amazing, the Crosby Street Hotel SoHo same arrangement twice.
I saw the tiny foie gras terrine rooms are super comfortable and Kit Kemps punchy interiors, CYNTHIA ROSENFELD

with toast points that appeared it brilliantly captures that Old secret garden and comfy lounge fourseasons.com/paris
next to my Etro-blanketed bed Hollywood vibe. YOLANDA EDWARDS have turned this little downtown
at turndown. ANDREW SESSA sunsettowerhotel.com gem into a cult favourite among Htel Plaza Athne
rosewoodhotels.com the fashion set. E.F. 8th arrondissement
NEW YORK rmdalehotels.com They have the most attentive
The Savoy Northbank Baccarat Hotel New York Midtown staff, and youll wake up to
Walking past the Rolls-Royces Its a great combo of traditional Four Seasons Hotel New York breakfast in the most beautiful
at the entrance always feels so European craftsmanship and Midtown dining room not to mention a
grand. Drinks at the American New York glamour. It also has I.M. Peis 1993 design (all pastry basket with over 15 types
Bar is a must, even if youre not the only La Mer spa in the clean lines and cool French of Viennoiserie. Y.E.
spending the night. ERIN FLORIO country and a bubbly button limestone) has never felt dorchestercollection.com
fairmont.com/savoy-london on the room phone. M.H. dated. An AED 440 million
baccarathotels.com renovation in 2016 wisely La Rserve Paris Hotel and Spa
LOS ANGELES didnt mess with that and 8th arrondissement
Hotel Bel-Air The Carlyle, A Rosewood Hotel the Manhattan skyline and The rooms are big by Parisian
The bungalows are engulfed in Upper East Side Central Park views are still standards. It did, after all,
the most peaceful gardens. Its If youre in town on vacation, insane. PETER JON LINDBERG previously belong to Pierre
a bit out of the way, but thats youre likely to end up at fourseasons.com/newyork Cardin. And the Jacques Garcia

90 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


THE
GOLD LIST
2017

THE SKI
LODGES
THAT
ALWAYS
DELIVER
These properties do spa, aprs
and the high-end ski aesthetic
so damn well, you may
just bag hitting those drifty
precipices altogether

HOTEL JEROME ASPEN


The gist 93-room Auberge resort
originally built in 1889 at the height
of the silver boom.
Why we love it Huge rooms, and they
nailed the renovation think silver
barons Wild West estate in 2012.
Mountains to ski Its closest to
Aspen Mountain and a short drive
to Buttermilk, Aspen Highlands
and Snowmass.
interiors are totally inspiring. M.H. Imperial Palace grounds, and hoteljerome.aubergeresorts.com
lareserve-paris.com the pool is equal parts elegant
and Zen. It may be in the BADRUTTS PALACE HOTEL
Le Meurice 1st arrondissement middle of the city, but it feels ST. MORITZ
This is as centre-of-the-city like youve entered a ryokan in The gist A castle and luxury
as it gets. From here, you can the middle of rural Japan. Y.E. benchmark that opened in 1896 and
walk pretty much everywhere. aman.com is still owned by the Badrutt family.
Book a room overlooking the Why we love it The lake view and
Tuileries, and plan on drinks in Mandarin Oriental Tokyo the emphasis on wellness (they
the seriously romantic bar just Nihonbashi tuck hot water bottles into your
off the lobby. L.D. Not just for its smooth, sheets at night).
dorchestercollection.com everything-works-here polish, Mountains to ski The local mountain
but for its 12 (count em, 12) Corviglia. The glacier-run Diavolezza
The Peninsula Paris restaurants and bars, nearly and Piz Corvatsch are also options.
16th arrondissement all of them worth staying in badruttspalace.com
The intimate and sexy Bar for. Thats saying something
Klber is exactly what you want in this city. P.J.L. GSTAAD PALACE SWITZERLAND
ILLUSTRATION: ARMANDO VEVE

in a hotel bar, and LiLi is one mandarinoriental.com/tokyo The gist An eight-storey icon with
of the best Chinese restaurants tasselled keys and a dinner dress code.
Ive ever eaten at. Y.E. Above: Opulent interiors Park Hyatt Tokyo Shinjuku Why we love it Its 20,000sqft spa
at Baccarat Hotel
paris.peninsula.com New York. Opposite,
The dcor could use an update and pools, and the surrounding
clockwise from top left: (unless Nineties Revival is your Bernese Alps.
TOKYO Tea at Aman Tokyo; style), but for stellar service and Mountains to ski Several independent
Aman Tokyo Otemachi Hotel Bel-Airs pool; a Fuji views, nobody doesnt love resorts are interconnected by lifts
sunny terrace at The
Many rooms have Japanese Connaught; afternoon this Shinjuku icon. P.J.L. meaning 219km of terrain.
soaking tubs with views of the tea at La Rserve Paris tokyo.park.hyatt.com palace.ch

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 91


THE
SAFARI
INDEX
Our special correspondent
SOPHY ROBERTS has been
on 20 safaris in 13 African
countries. Here, her picks for
the ultimate properties that
reect the pulse of Africa,
where the wild things roam
right outside your door

&Beyond Phinda Vlei Lodge catch the Tanzanian dawn, the


If South Africa is the sure hit leopard coming in to drink, the
destination for the safari virgin, weaver bird nests that quiver like
then this lodge in a private game baubles in the acacia trees.
reserve easily overlooked for the classic-portfolio.com
more touristic Sabi Sands is the
one to satisfy the most nicky of Segera Retreat
travellers. Within this glass-and- Kenyas Segera works for second-
thatch private world, you dont have time visitors to Africa, or for a
Moroccan style at to move from your king-size bed large hit of luxury at the end of
Royal Mansour
or tub to take in the cheetahs and a dusty tour. Hole up in the spa,
rhinos crossing the vleis in front. beside the pool, and savour
andbeyond.com/phinda-vlei-lodge every bite of that seriously
Even more so thoughtful organic food.
An ode to than the Jardin segera.com

hotels in Majorelle, with its


iconic electric-blue Singita Sabora Tented Camp
Marrakech villa and canary- Made up of Twenties-style tents
yellow planters, or on Tanzanias
the carnivalesque Sabora Plain,
Jemaa el Fna Square, hotels here have the power to Camp Nomade Sabora makes
transport. Sitting in the grand marble lobby of Es Saadi Brightly painted steel trunks, you feel like
(essaadi.com), a hint of orange blossoms and cigarettes in the camel bells and scores of lanterns youre the
air, you can almost convince yourself that its 1968 and make this sometimes mobile mistress in
Keith and Mick are about to walk by. At the Royal Mansour tented camp in Chad completely White Mischief,
(royalmansour.com), youll play out a modern One Thousand of its place in north-central surrounded by
And One Nights fantasy in a private riad with your own Africa. The wildlife highlight campaign furniture, Persian
rooftop terrace and hammam. La Mamounia (mamounia.com), is Zakouma National Parks rugs, gramophones, a hundred
on the other hand, is one big fabulous spectacle. Theres thriving elephant herd. candles and zebras snorting under
nothing subtle about it, from the doormen dressed in african-parks.org a star-pricked sky.
billowing white pants, fez and red velvet cape to the singita.com
exquisite peacock feather-hued zellige tiles. For Moroccan Greystoke Mahale
minimalism white tile, neutral textiles and cream Beni One of the most beautifully Sirikoi
Ourain rugs stay at the Mandarin Oriental (mandarinoriental. built lodges in Africa, it was This Kenyan lodge has the
com/marrakech) just outside the city. REBECCA MISNER redesigned by the so-called inimitable texture of long-time
Brunelleschi of the Bush, owners who care (hence the high
Kenya-based Ben Jackson. repeat rate), with replaces
ILLUSTRATIONS: ARMANDO VEVE

You come to track adorned with family photos


habituated chimps, but of the odd HRH. Lewa Wildlife
this Tanzanian lodge Conservancys healthy rhino
This former palace is so detoxes your soul. herds graze like happy
nomad-tanzania.com sheep all around. Food is
exquisitely designed that Id a generous al fresco
rethink my entire trip to Tangier Mwiba Lodge feast every day, from
Extreme luxury done with class beef salads to Anglo-
if it were fully booked you can feel the care of the Indian curries.
ERIN FLORIO ON THE HOTEL NORD-PINUS IN TANGIER American owners here. Rooms sirikoi.com

92 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


THE
GOLD LIST
2017
Clockwise from left: Lavish
dcor at the Burj Al Arab
Jumeirah; rooms overlook
the dunes at Qasr Al Sarab;
relax on the terrace at
One&Only The Palm; tranquil
Six Senses Zighy Bay

enough, last year saw the just that. The contemporary Royal Pavilion Villas have
THE opening of the Terrace with a French restaurant is just one their own reception area
WEEKENDER beach and pool club, kitted-out
cabanas and a new restaurant
highlight of this tranquil resort
on The Palm: arabesque
and facilities.
qasralsarab.anantara.com
Sometimes you want an an extension, stretching 100m design details, modern rooms,
escape without the hassle into the Arabian Gulf, that was subtle service and a Guerlain Six Senses Zighy Bay Oman
of planes, trains and fabricated entirely in Finland Spa add to the charm. Cobblestoned walls guard your
and then shipped to Dubai. oneandonlyresorts.com privacy in the villas of this
automobiles. Here, our
The hotel also recently added beachfront sanctuary nestled
picks of local gems that two-Michelin-starred Nathan Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort on the Musandam Peninsula.
keep drawing us back Outlaw to its roster, reinventing by Anantara Abu Dhabi Its just the place to disconnect,
the menu at seafood-focused The red sand dunes of the remote and beautiful, and you
Al Mahara. RubAl Khali stretch out never have to leave your private
Burj Al Arab Jumeirah Dubai jumeirah.com seemingly into innity at pool. The Arabian Facial at
The hotel that put Dubai on this desert resort that makes the spa uses local ingredients like
the global hospitality map One & Only The Palm Dubai the most of its location with gs and honey, and multi-day
continues to impress with its Guests who come to dinner desert walks, sand sledding, yoga programmes go beyond just
duplex suites, on-point service at multi-starred chef Yannick 4x4 drives, yoga on the relaxation for lasting effects.
and full-size Herms bath Allenos signature dining room dunes and camel trekking sixsenses.com
amenities. And if that wasnt STAY will be tempted to do expeditions. The secluded RHEA SARAN

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 93


PHOTO: PAOLA + MURRAY

Monuments Beach
at The Cape, a
Thompson Hotel.
Opposite: Goldeneye
is set on a lagoon
THE
GOLD LIST
2017
setting and rainforest walks
The with charming resident
naturalist Irshad Mubarak. P.J.L.
beaches thedatai.com/langkawi
we return
to again Eden Rock-St Barths
Its the unicorn of hotels
and again glamorous without feeling
snooty, stylish but still
playful, a throwback but not
The Cape, A Thompson Hotel at all dated and just so damn
Cabo San Lucas, Mexico chic. The people-watching
One of the sexiest grown- at that hotel is as epic as the
ups weekend spots Ive beach. R.M.
ever been to. R.M. edenrockhotel.com
thompsonhotels.com
El Nido Resorts Pangulasian
Cheval Blanc Randheli Maldives Island Philippines
An overwater villa is a This barefoot-luxe resort on a
dream come true, but the private island faces an absurdly
slightly more spacious on- photogenic beach. Kayak those
the-sand option here is the clear waters to uninhabited
ultimate fantasy beach nearby islands. P.J.L.
house. C.R. elnidoresorts.com/
randheli.chevalblanc.com pangulasian-island
Laucala Island Fiji
COMO Parrot Cay GoldenEye Jamaica Yes, its crazy-expensive. But
Turks and Caicos Pure elegance and a stunning youll get access to an entire
Just a quick nonstop ight location. They also added private island including Fijian
from New York, yet it feels 26 new beach huts just last The horses to explore it, acres of
thousands of miles away. year. P.J.L. landscape tropical orchards, a staff-to-
The rst time I came here, goldeneye.com guest ratio of six-to-one and
Keith Richards was holding feels like rides on an AED 6.8 million
court in the tiny bar. The Hermitage Bay Antigua Scotland, but Super Falcon submarine. P.J.L.
next morning, Christie I like how it feels very raw laucala.com
Brinkley waved hello as she in the landscape, not too youre less
jogged past my chaise longue. manicured or precious. The than an hour Nihiwatu Sumba Island, Indonesia
The 13-year-old me would restaurant places a huge Believe the hype. It has
have freaked out. P.J.L. emphasis on local everything. from San gorgeous eco-savvy design, superb
comohotels.com/parrotcay They dont have an extensive Francisco surng and deep-sea shing, a
menu just what is fresh that remarkable philanthropic arm
YOLANDA EDWARDS
The Datai Langkawi Malaysia day from the farmer or the ON THE RITZ-CARLTON, in the Sumba Foundation and
HALF MOON BAY
So much to love here, like sherman. Y.E. soul to spare. P.J.L.
the jungle-meets-the-sea hermitagebay.com nihiwatu.com

ITALIANS belmond.com/villa-san-
michele-orence
curved pool carved out of the
rock, the terraced restaurant
DO IT that hangs over the sea and
BETTER Grand Hotel Tremezzo
Como, Lombardy
the dock reached by a hundred
stone steps leading down the
A dead ringer for the Grand cliff. ONDINE COHANE
ILLUSTRATION: ARMANDO VEVE

Belmond Villa San Michele Budapest Hotel, only on Lake pellicanohotels.com


Florence, Tuscany Como. The service is great, its
Pre-dinner drinks in the Italian kid-friendly and oh boy, that Le Sirenuse Positano, Salerno
gardens, with the scent of lemon view. I love it. ODDUR THORISSON In the centre of Positano, Le
and live piano music, set the mood grandhoteltremezzo.com Sirenuse balances centrality
at this boutique spot in the hills. The with a pristine design sensibility
views over Florence are stunning. Hotel Il Pellicano and honeymooners pool
Michelangelo was credited with Porto Ercole, Tuscany eyrie. PILAR GUZMN
designing the faade. R.S. Its all just so good: that sirenuse.it

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 95


TO THE
MANOR
BORN
New Yorkers have the
Hamptons, Londoners have
the English countryside. Below,
our favourite estates all three
hours or less from the British
capital where we play out
our Jane Austen fantasies,
but in beds from this century

Babington House
Owned by Soho House, this 18-acre
Georgian estate in Somerset has an
18th-century Georgian church, a walled
garden and indoor and outdoor pools
that alone are worth the trip.
babingtonhouse.co.uk

Barnsley House
Its less grand than the regal manors
typical of the Cotswolds, but noted
Brit gardener Rosemary Verey
used to live here, and her perfectly
landscaped gardens remain. The
spa is top-notch, too.
barnsleyhouse.com

Gravetye Manor
This Sussex estate has charm in
spades oak-wood salons, four-
poster beds, roaring replaces
and a thousand rambling acres
of apple orchards and swan ponds.
gravetyemanor.co.uk
ILLUSTRATION: ARMANDO VEVE

Lime Wood
Hampshires New Forest is a
camping favourite for London
families. But those wanting to toast
themselves post-hike with a stiff
drink in a glass-atrium courtyard
should stay at this manor house with
interiors by designer David Collins.
limewoodhotel.co.uk
ERIN FLORIO

96 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


THE
GOLD LIST
2017

THEYRE SORT
OF OUT OF THE
WAY BUT WORTH
THE TRIP
These hotels may require a longer drive
or a connecting ight (or two), but that
are we there yet feeling will be replaced
with Im never leaving as soon as
you walk through the door at these
otherworldly properties

Amangiri Canyon Point, Utah


Paradise on Mars. And I dream of the
perfectly chilled sage lemonade they put
in your hiking backpack. A.W.
aman.com

Babylonstoren South Africa


Just 45 minutes outside Cape Town, this
17th-century Cape Dutch farm and grape
estate has a fabulous bamboo-clad spa and
hammam, an onsite bakery and two great
restaurants sourcing almost everything from
the surrounding elds and orchards. P.J.L.
babylonstoren.com

Dromoland Castle Hotel & Country Estate


County Clare, Ireland
Its a comfortable castle if you can imagine
such a thing. Its really more of an estate, set
on one of the best golf courses in Burren,
which is not super lush but raw and beautiful.
MAEVE NICHOLSON

dromoland.ie

Explora Rapa Nui Easter Island, Chile


Do the megalithic statues, go to the summit
of Maunga Terevaka and hike through lava
tubes overlooking the Pacic, then cap it
all off with a night swim in the hotels pool
under a blanket of stars. PAUL BRADY
explora.come

Shakti Ladakh The Himalayas


The knowledgeable guides will have you
hiking, mountain biking and visiting with
local monks and oracles. DAVID PRIOR
shaktihimalaya.com

Wickaninnish Inn Tono, British


Columbia, Canada
Explore tide pools, hike the surrounding
coastal rainforest and kayak to nearby
Meares Island. Thats where I paddled
Amangiri is tucked
into a canyon with
past forests of 1,000-year-old cedar and
sweeping valley views followed a pod of grey whales. R.M.
wickinn.com

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 97


Amsterdam Conservatorium (buenosaires.park.hyatt.com) (hoshinoyakyoto.jp)
Hotel (conservatoriumhotel. Cape Town Belmond Mount Las Vegas Cosmopolitan of
com); Waldorf Astoria Nelson Hotel (belmond.com/ Las Vegas (cosmopolitanlasvegas.
(waldorfastoria3.hilton.com) mount-nelson-hotel-cape-town); com); Wynn Las Vegas
Athens Hotel Grande One&Only Cape Town (wynnlasvegas.com)
Bretagne (grandebretagne.gr) (oneandonlyresorts.com/one- Lisbon Palcio Belmonte
Austin Hotel Saint Cecilia and-only-cape-town-south-africa) (palaciobelmonte.com)
(hotelsaintcecilia.com) Capri J.K. Place Capri Mexico City Condesa DF
Bangkok COMO (jkcapri.com), Zero George (condesadf.com); Las Alcobas
Metropolitan (comohotels.com/ Street (zerogeorge.com); (lasalcobas.com)
metropolitanbangkok); The Wentworth Mansion Miami The Betsy (thebetsyhotel.
Siam (thesiamhotel.com) (wentworthmansion.com) com); Faena Hotel Miami
Barcelona Hotel Arts Chengdu JW Marriott Hotel Beach (faena.com/miami-
OUR (hotelartsbarcelona.com);
Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona
Chengdu (marriott.com)
Chicago The Langham
beach); Soho Beach House
(sohobeachhouse.com)
GLOBAL (mandarinoriental.com/ (langhamhotels.com); The Milan Mandarin Oriental Milan
HOTELS barcelona)
Beijing Opposite House
Peninsula (chicago.peninsula.com)
Copenhagen Hotel
(mandarinoriental.com/milan)
Napa Valley Auberge du Soleil
ONE SHEET (theoppositehouse.com); dAngleterre (dangleterre.com) (aubergedusoleil.aubergeresorts.
Rosewood Beijing (rosewood Galle Amangalla (aman.com) com); Calistoga Ranch
In some destinations, theres hotels.com/beijing) Hanoi Sotel Legend Metropole (calistogaranch.aubergeresorts.com)
a dearth of great places to Berlin Das Stue (das-stue. (sotel.com) Oslo The Thief (thethief.com)
stay; in others, there are so com); Hotel Adlon Kempinski Hong Kong The Peninsula Hong Rio de Janeiro Belmond
many options that you need (kempinski.com/berlin/ Kong (hongkong.peninsula.com); Copacabana Palace (belmond.
a trusted recommendation hotel-adlon) Upper House (upperhouse.com) com/copacabana-palace-rio-de-
to avoid ending up Boston Ames Boston Hotel Istanbul Four Seasons Hotel janeiro); Santa Teresa Hotel
somewhere mediocre (and (ameshotel.com); XV Beacon Istanbul at Sultanahmet (santateresahotelrio.com)
still expensive). These are (xvbeacon.com) (fourseasons.com/instanbul); Rome Portrait Roma
the hotels we dont have Buenos Aires Alvear Palace Soho House Istanbul (lungarnocollection.com/portrait-
to think twice about Hotel (alvearpalacehotel.com); (sohohouseistanbul.com) roma); Villa Spalletti Trivelli
Palacio Duhau - Park Hyatt Kyoto Hoshinoya (villaspalletti.it)
Saigon Park Hyatt Saigon
(saigon.park.hyatt.com)
Shanghai Fairmont Peace
Hotel (fairmont.com/peace-
hotel-shanghai); The
Peninsula Shanghai
(shanghai.peninsula.com)
Singapore Rafes Singapore
(rafes.com/singapore); St. Regis
Singapore (stregissingapore.com)
Stockholm Ett Hem (etthem.se);
Grand Htel (grandhotel.se)
Vancouver Shangri-La Hotel
Vancouver (shangri-la.com/
vancouver/shangrila)
Venice Aman Venice (aman.com/
resorts/aman-venice); Belmond
Hotel Cipriani (belmond.com/
hotel-cipriani-venice); Gritti
Palace (thegrittipalace.com)
Washington, D.C. The Hay-
Adams (hayadams.com); The
Jefferson (jeffersondc.com);
Park Hyatt Washington
ILLUSTRATION: ARMANDO VEVE

(washingtondc.park.hyatt.com)
Zurich Baur au Lac (bauraulac.
ch); The Dolder Grand
(thedoldergrand.com)

Left: Elegant interiors


at Ett Hem. Opposite:
Sujn Rajmahal Palaces
Colonnade restaurant

98 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


THE
GOLD LIST
2017
WHERE
TO GET
HEALTHY-
ISH
The medi-spa trend is
exploding, and more hotels are
killing it with state-of the-art
wellness programmes. But
Nothing in this year were all about the
the world places that let you live it up
a bit outside the treatment
is more room and the gym
relaxing than
watching Bio-Hotel Stanglwirt Austria
water buffalo Like something out of The Sound Of
Music, this Tyrolean family-run lodge
graze in with 10 saunas and baths fed by
brilliant- Alpine springs is the rare spa thats
also kid-friendly. JENNIFER MILLER
green, stanglwirt.com
breeze-
COMO Shambhala Estate Ubud, Bali
rippled rice Yes, it has three pools, a private
paddies from waterfall and nine treatment rooms,
but the real treat of staying here is
your Thai- the food. Many places make good,
style daybed even excellent, low-cal all-organic
macrobiotic fare, but no one does it
PETER JON LINDBERG
ON THE FOUR SEASONS RESORT
CHIANG MAI IN THAILAND
with as much style and subtlety of
avour as this retreat. H.Y.
comohotels.com/comoshambhalaestate

Kamalaya Koh Samui, Thailand


The monastic-chic vibe of cabins
with plunge pools built into a
jungle-y hillside gives this Thai
stalwart the feel of a Buddhist
sanctuary, not a boot camp. D.P.
kamalaya.com

If choosing the right hotel can feel akin to climbing a summit, Les Sources de Caudalie
An ode then travellers to India start at a higher base camp than most:
Stay at any luxury hotel here and youre more or less guaranteed
Bordeaux France

to hotels Soak in the hot spring pool, get a


PHOTO: ROLAND BELLO; ILLUSTRATION: ARMANDO VEVE

good food and attentive service. But the most memorable hotels vinotherapy massage, then roll over for
in India offer something else their own interpretations of Indian history. a grape tasting from the spas vineyard,
Think of the coolly elegant Imperial New Delhi (theimperialindia. Chteau Smith Haut Latte. Y.E.
com), its hallways hung with Raj-era photographs, or the grand, sources-caudalie.com
marble-oored Taj Mahal Palace (tajhotels.com) in Mumbai, both of which pay homage to the countrys
colonial era; or of Jaipurs ecstatically colourful and patterned Sujn Rajmahal Palace (sujanluxury.com/
raj-mahal), a former royal guest house that nds its inspiration in the glory and excess of the Mughals.
And its not only the aesthetics that make Indian hotels singular; its how creatively, and boldly, they
incorporate the countrys most iconic landscapes and sites. One has only to stay at the Oberoi Amarvilas
(oberoihotels.com) in Agra, where every room has a view of the Taj Mahal accessible via a golf cart ride
provided by the hotel or Amanbagh (aman.com), outside Jaipur, drawn along the lines of a former
princes hunting grounds, where the air is fragrant with wood smoke from the nearby villages and loud
with the chatter of monkeys, to know this. But what unites them all is a dedication to splendour: Youre
on vacation, they remind us isnt this the time to be dazzled? HANYA YANAGIHARA

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 99


NATUR AL
S ELECTION
WHEN THE SEYCHELLES ESCAPE OF
NORTH ISLAND OPENED OVER A DECADE
AGO, PETER BROWNE WAS THE FIRST
WRITER TO STAY. NORTH BECAME THE
PIN-UP EVERYONE RAVED ABOUT
PRINCE WILLIAM AND KATE MIDDLETON
EVEN HONEYMOONED THERE. NOW IT
HAS BEEN REVAMPED AND ITS ARCH
RIVAL FRGATE HAS ALSO UPPED ITS
GAME. AND THERES A SPLASHY NEW
ARRIVAL FROM BIG-HITTER SIX SENSES,
TOO. COULD THE MOST BEAUTIFUL
ARCHIPELAGO IN THE INDIAN OCEAN
GET ANY SMARTER?
Photographed by JULIEN CAPMEIL
The library on North
Island in an original coral-
block plantation building.
Opposite: Anse Victorin
on Frgate Island

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 101


T HE GHOST OF A HEADLESS WOMAN
haunts a sea cave near the
ruins of an ancient pirates
fort. It is said she and her
husband lived happily on the
beautiful island until the day
her brother-in-law came to
visit. One evening, returning
from a hard days work on the plantation,
the husband found no one at home and so
went in search of his wife and brother.
the island, and she is still blamed for anything that might go wrong.
Apocryphal tales such as this abound in the Seychelles, frayed
remnants of stories told for centuries, dating back to a time when
French plantation owners cultivated many of these far-ung Indian
Ocean isles with slave labour from Africa and India. Here you will
nd ancient graves and ruins built with coral rock thought to be
the work of 17th-century pirates, and giant white crosses used to
indicate which of the 115 islands are inhabited while also marking
the safest spot for boats to land.
The main island of Mah just 26km long and its neighbours
in the Inner Islands are stupendously forested and encircled with
He walked deep into the forest and preternaturally beautiful beaches; some of those further aeld are no
stopped to rest in a place overshadowed more than windswept specks of coral, scattered like shotgun pellets
by tall coconut palms and giant takamaka over vast distances, or huddled together in tiny atolls as if taking
trees. There he heard the sound of his comfort in each others company in the face of such terrible isolation.
brothers jaunty whistle and saw his wife A great number of the islands have never been sullied by human
emerging from the undergrowth. Blind with habitation and remain splendid reminders of how things were
fury in the certain knowledge that they had a million years ago, like miniature versions of the Galpagos or
been caught together, the husband spun his Madagascar, worlds suspended in time. Some are protected nature
scythe and cut off his wifes head. At that reserves, and the Seychelles has two UNESCO World Heritage sites.
moment a nearby magpie-robin repeated its Others are in private hands and undergoing the lengthy process of
perfect imitation of his brothers distinctive rehabilitation, the scars and scabs formed by decades of degradation
whistle, and took ight. From that day on, slowly fading with the eradication of invasive plants and critters,
the ghost of his wronged wife has haunted and their replacement with more kindly native species.

102 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


With a total population of less than led by Mad Mike Hoare, a British-Irish veteran of shady Congo
100,000, there is plenty of elbow-room in the shenanigans, were exposed at the airport. During a shoot-out, the
Seychelles. Most of the current descendants men aborted their attempted coup and hijacked an Air India aircraft
of French and British settlers, Chinese to take them home. Ren, who would survive a second coup in 1986,
merchants and African and Indian plantation continued to govern the Seychelles until 2004. He stood down that
workers live on Mah. Next in size and year in favour of his long-serving vice-president, James Michel, who
population is Praslin, famously home to coco recently handed the reins to his deputy.
de mer palms, found only in the Seychelles. The otherworldly beauty of the Seychelles has long attracted
Smaller and a little further east is La Digue, curious travellers and fanned its reputation for both exoticism and
recognisable to those with long memories as elitism. Thanks to the islands remoteness 1,600km off the east
the backdrop for Christie Brinkleys Sports coast of Africa they have never been cheap to visit, or, for that
Illustrated shoots in the Seventies and Bacardi matter, on any cruise-ship itineraries. Unassuming guest houses and
adverts in the Nineties. Even today theres small, locally owned hotels remained the order of the day until the
an air of chocolate-box perfection to these Nineties, when the government adopted a more pragmatic approach
islands, although there have certainly been to foreign investment. Which is when international hotel brands
some troublesome moments in paradise. started to open on the main islands.
A former British crown colony albeit a At that time, there were just a couple of simple lodges on small
neglected and overwhelmingly French one private islands owned by prominent Seychellois families the Savys
the Seychelles gained independence in 1976 on Bird Island and the Masons on neighbouring Denis but soon the
with a coalition government formed by the way was clear for something altogether grander, if not in scale, then From opposite, left:
pro-British James Mancham and the socialist- most certainly in ambition. A seating nook at Six
France Albert Ren. The following year I rst visited the Seychelles 16 years ago, before there were any Senses; an islander on
La Digue; signs on the
Ren staged a coup, forcing Mancham into big-name hotels on Mah and the earliest of the new batch of private- island; the restaurant
exile. Then in 1981, a group of mercenaries island lodges had just opened. Handsome Frgate Island (doubles from on Frgate Island

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 103


SET BACK IN A FOREST
AND FRONTED BY
WHITE-CORAL SAND,
THE STRUCTURES
FEEL THRILLINGLY
ELEMENTAL

The beachfront
Piazza on North
Island, which includes
a grape cellar and
dining area

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 105


replacement trees and shrubs to help recreate habitats for rare birds
THE ISLANDS ARE such as the Seychelles white eye and Seychelles paradise ycatcher.
Flicit is a real beauty, dominated by massive, grey-black
RIVALS FOR THE granite outcrops weathered into deep pleats by centuries of rainfall
and pounding surf. Most of it remains completely inaccessible, at
WORLDS HAPPIEST least until walking trails can be hacked out of the jungle. Yet with

HONEYMOONERS so much still to do, Hill is fantastically optimistic. Given time, he


says, what we did on Frgate will be totally eclipsed by our work on
AND PRINCES, Flicit, which is on a much bigger scale. It will be incredible.
For the last couple of years, the focus has been on getting the
ECO WARRIORS hotel up and running. The French general manager, Edouard
Grosmangin, built an impressive launch team, all beaming with the
AND OLIGARCHS kind of infectious enthusiasm born out of shared experiences
and adventures. They have come to the island from around the
globe Kenyan landscapers, and builders from Mumbai, Balinese
spa therapists and British chefs. There will eventually be 180
members of staff running the island and its restaurants and taking
care of guests in the 30 villas, immense and beautiful spaces with
AED 18,000; 00497-22-1900 9922, fregate.com) owned by the German private pools, hardwood oors, vaulted ceilings and deep bathtubs
industrialist Otto Happel since the Seventies, was rst off the block set in front of picture windows.
in 1998, closely followed by tiny Cousine Island (doubles from AED The spa promises to be the most dramatic in the Seychelles. Set
5,400 per person; 0027-11-706 2415, cousineisland.com), owned by the on a rocky promontory with superb sunrise and sunset views from the
South African granite billionaire Malcolm Keely. Both men declared yoga and meditation pavilion, it will have ve double treatment rooms
that the restoration and conservation of the fragile eco-systems were balanced on those massive boulders high above the crashing sea.
paramount, and would be nanced by prots from the lodges, a Chef Richard Lee, originally from Birmingham, is a brilliant
position they maintain to this day. leader as well as a talented cook. Over three days I watch his Island
Three years after that trip, I ew out to report on the opening of Caf restaurant transform from a dust-blanketed building site into
what has become the Seychelles most famous private island, North a relaxed, free-form dining space serving mango and avocado salads
Island (villas from AED 22,400, sleeps 10; 0024-8-429 3150, north-island. and Creole-spiced crab curry. The open-air Ocean Kitchen will serve
com), a serious player in the conservation rmament, and peerless dishes that tie in with the various wellness programmes for which Six
celebrity hangout (including the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge). Senses is so well-known.
There have been a handful of hotel arrivals in the intervening With La Digue a 15-minute boat ride away, and Praslin just half
years. The Four Seasons Seychelles (doubles from AED 3,770; 0024- an hour, its incredibly easy, and even encouraged, to connect with
8-439 3000, fourseasons.com) on Mah, which opened in 2009, is still Seychellois life from the hotel. La Digue still maintains the salty aura
at the top of its game, with 67 villas secreted among 69 hectares of of a long-lost Caribbean outpost, with Rasta stallholders, beach shack
wonderfully landscaped grounds. But, at least up until now, there restaurants and old colonial houses with wide verandas. A Six Senses
has been no single private island to match either North or Frgate, speedboat will also get you over to magnicent Anse Lazio beach on
joint favourites for exclusivity and rivals for the worlds happiest Praslin for a prawn-curry lunch at Bonbon Plume restaurant and a
honeymooners and princes, the wealthiest eco-warriors and oligarchs. drink at the ramshackle, help-yourself honesty bar.

IN OCTOBER, THE NEW SIX SENSES ZIL PASYON WAS UNVEILED ON A FULL 55KM FROM MAH, FRGATE ISLAND IS A WORLD UNTO ITSELF,
Flicit, a dramatic 264-hectare island off La Digue (doubles with a hydroponic farm and orchards that produce 80 per cent
from AED 6,180; 0024-8-467 1000, sixsenses.com). Its been a long time of the hotels fruit and vegetables, and even supply markets on
coming. Nine years ago, way before the Bangkok-based Six Senses Mah. It is also a conservation success story of global repute. But it
hotel and spa group signed on, it was announced that Zil Pasyon looks and at rst feels nothing like the Frgate I remember.
(Creole for island of passion) would open in 2008 and then 2010. It Back then, just a couple of years after Otto Happel opened
was a couple more years before a new owner was brought on board with his private island to paying guests, the roads were surfaced with
deep enough pockets to bring this mammoth development to fruition. crushed coconuts and primordial forest virtually encased the guest
During this period of uncertainty, villas, which were slathered in dark-treacle varnish. Since then,
Steve Hill, the environmental consultant the vegetation around the 17 villas has been cleared and replaced
responsible for the restoration of Frgate with landscaped gardens scented with frangipani and coloured
back in the Nineties, was quietly at work with bougainvillaea. After a recent refurbishment, the villas are
on the island, identifying and removing altogether more cheerful affairs and have the best private pools in the
invasive species, and replacing them with Seychelles. Yet the old primeval heart of the island beats on.
indigenous and native plants from his vast Frgate was home to the last dozen magpie-robins left in the
supply of seedlings and saplings. world until Birdlife International started a recovery programme
By the time I arrived on Flicit last in 1990. There are now 137 of the feisty black-and-white birds on
year, just a few weeks before the ofcial Frgate, and they have even been translocated to other islands in the
Opposite, clockwise
opening, Hill had disposed of vast tracts of from top left:
Seychelles, bringing their number up to about 450. Because there
coco plum trees, introduced during what North Islands pool; are no predators on Frgate (rats were eradicated in the early days),
he describes as mans occupation of the breakfast at Six all the birdlife is remarkably prolic and curious: sleek, white fairy
island (Flicit had once been a coconut Senses; a seating area terns utter within touching distance; red-billed moorhens scuttle on
at Norths Piazza; a
plantation, and then briey a small private detail in the library the ground noisily defending their territory; rotund Seychelles blue
retreat). So far his team has planted 40,000 at Villa North Island pigeons squat on the low branches of fruit trees surveying the bucolic

106 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


this trip, the lodge on North had yet to open and the rehabilitation of
the island was just getting underway.
North Island was bought in 1997 for about AED 18 million by a
group of investors, including Wilderness Safaris, the Johannesburg-
based conservation outt. A former copra plantation, it had been
abandoned in the Seventies and was riddled with rats and wild
cats; there were also a few skinny cattle wandering around and
one slightly crazy caretaker and his dog.
Wilderness asked the brilliant architects Silvio Rech and Lesley
Carstens to build the beach lodge of their dreams and the couple
camped out on the island with their young children for two years to
get a feel for the place. Rech and Carstens ended up working on the
project for ve years. In fact, they were just nishing off the last of
their extraordinary, handcrafted villas when I visited all those years
ago. Set back in a forest and fronted by a long, wide stretch of white-
coral sand, everything about those structures still feels thrillingly
elemental: the shaggy thatch roofs, the enormous twisted trunks and
branches of takamaka trees, the hand-peeled gum poles, weathered
rosewood and sand-blasted pine. There are very few doors, and even
they fold back to create open spaces at one with the environment.
Although North Island has since been sold to the Russian
billionaire Mikhail Prokhorov reportedly for about AED 129 million
A bathroom its still managed by Bruce Simpson, who recently left Wilderness
at Zil Pasyon.
Opposite: Villa Safaris to work for Prokhorov, and by all accounts remains committed
North Island to keeping it true to its conservation-led roots. The lodge was
recently completely refurbished for the rst time since it opened,
and there are plans to build another two villas on the undeveloped
west side of the island.
scene, untroubled by thousands of Aldabra giant tortoises lumbering Theres no doubt that the new interiors by designer Maira
beneath them. At night, millions of giant millipedes come out to feed Koutsoudakis who also developed the original look have notched
on decaying vegetation and leaf litter, cleaning up the forest oor. up the glamour quotient by introducing super-smart elements such
Frgates many riches extend to its reputation as the site of buried as soft silk rugs and hand-beaten brass headboards; the sunken,
treasure, hidden by 17th-century pirates, and its enduring stories polished-concrete baths I remember have been replaced with
and myths, such as the one about the ghost of the headless woman, elegant, white ceramic versions and there are shiny new brass
of which there are many variations. It is criss-crossed with walking xtures and ttings. But the whole place has weathered beautifully
trails, the only real way to explore the island as roads are limited to and now sits happily in its setting; the laid-back spirit is still very
the developed north. Hawksbill turtles nest on Grand Anse beach much the same as it ever was.
in the south, where there used to be a big pig farm, long gone amid In the past 13 years about a quarter of the island has been
concerns about the lack of an abattoir, but its still possible to see the successfully rehabilitated. Like Frgate, North Island employs
outline of the old pens in the undergrowth. full-time environmentalists and landscapers and takes on
Simon Love, the islands South African agricultural manager, volunteers to improve the luxurious forests. All their backbreaking
recently returned to Frgate after 12 years. He remembers herding work has paid dividends with the return of the Seychelles blue
the pigs on to boats in preparation for the rat pigeons and shearwaters. Its hoped that before long it will be
exterminators, who dropped poison bait from possible to introduce the magpie-robin, the holy grail of the
helicopters. Now hes back to refurbish the Seychelles endangered wildlife.
old girl, as he calls the hydroponic plant he Norths new executive chef, Jeremy Hunt, has recently been
helped build in 1999, and bring the farming planting up the kitchen garden with leafy greens, dill, broccoli and
side of things up to scratch. heritage tomatoes. He also forages in the forests for ingredients
Earlier, I had noticed a low perimeter small wild mangoes or the golden apples much loved by the
fence around Loves orchards. Oh, GETTING islands giant tortoises and goes shing for fresh tuna, snapper
those are supposed to keep the giant THERE and grouper. I can land 12 species in one trip, he says, clearly
tortoises out, he says, but to be honest, Emirates
in awe of the plentitude of the surrounding seas, where he surfs
theyre a bit like elephants; they just (emirates.com)
in the evening after a day in the kitchen producing dishes such
keep coming back to the same spot Etihad Airways
as creamy gorgonzola, rhubarb and walnut gnocchi.
and batter away until the fence falls (etihad.com),
Right from the start there has been a North Island policy of
down. Still, youve got to admire their Qatar Airways
employing interesting people with a positive attitude rather than
determination. Ive grown very fond (qatarairways.
polished products of corporate institutions. Not that the staff dont
of them. Everyone on the island com) and Air
know what they are doing; quite the contrary, they have worked
gets along ne. Seychelles
at some of the worlds top hotels and lodges. But theres also a real
(airseychelles.
sense that everyone is here to enjoy the experience. One of the
THERES ALWAYS A DANGER IN GOING BACK com) y direct
young bartenders, a former child actor from Canada, likes to play the
somewhere you have fallen for, as I did from the GCC
saxophone in the forest; his Balinese neighbours in the staff village
when I visited North Island in 2003. At to Mah
strum the guitar and sing ballads from their homeland. Its a pretty
that time, like Six Senses Zil Pasyon on cool place to be, he says. Which just about sums it up perfectly.

108 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


The bar at Azura
Benguerra Island
Chef Takao Ishiyama
displays tuna llets at
SushiYa. Opposite, from
top: Tokyos Kabukicho
district; preparing kara-
shibi miso ramen at Kikanbo

110 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


COUNTER CULTURE
IN TOKYO, SERIOUS FOOD LOVERS WOULDNT BE CAUGHT DEAD SITTING
AT A TABLE. PETER JON LINDBERG PULLS UP A STOOL AT THE BAR

Photographed by BRIAN FINKE


Noodles and pork buns
at Biang! in Flushing

Clockwise from left:


The grill at Toritama;
Emi Hasegawa,
the wife of chef
Zaiyu Hasegawa,
at Jimbocho Den;
a salad of over 20
seasonal veggies
(and smiling carrots)
at the restaurant
I
F YOU WANT TO SEE WHAT A FIFTH-GENERATION sizzle of oil at a tempura shop. At a counter, those sounds
tempura master can do with a pot of heighten your experience.
bubbling safower oil, book a seat at Think of how removed you are from this in a restaurant
Ippoh, a Tokyo landmark since 1960. Ive with a traditional layout, where the menu and the servers
been coming here for a decade, but tonight all words and abstractions are your only conduits to the
Ive brought two friends whove never seen invisible kitchen. Counter dining ips that premise inside
the show. From across the counter we watch, out, so your interaction is mainly with the cooks, straight
rapt, as Masaru Seki transforms everyday from their welcoming shout of Irasshaimase!
ingredients shishitos, prawns, an egg yolk In Japan, this interaction really is a dialogue, even
into deep-fried nuggets of gold. if neither of you speaks the same language. You may
You can learn a lot from a bar seat, notice a sushi chef glancing your way as he prepares
like how the chef scores the squid with a your nigiri, sizing up your mouth and shaping the rice into
crosshatch to tenderise it, or how attuned a perfect bite. Omotenashi hospitality characterised by
he is to the oils pop as he swirls his silver attention to the smallest details is something youll nd
chopsticks in the batter and oil. And though at all levels of dining out in Japan, says Sakamoto. A
Masaru-san seldom speaks, theres a silent chef is constantly observing his guests across the counter,
conversation under way. While we watch him, hes watching adjusting every element of the meal to them.
us: gauging our hunger level, how quickly we devour the For Zaiyu Hasegawa, the chef-owner of Jimbocho Den
lotus root, how our eyes light up at the crunch of the maitake. whose eight-seat counter is my absolute favourite spot to
Forty-ve minutes in comes the unlikely nale. Into the eat in Tokyo cooking directly for guests is a way to stay
pot goes a grilled cheese sandwich on uffy white bread. Out engaged and inspired. I used to work in a restaurant where
comes a crackling wedge of umami, sweet and impossibly the kitchen was closed off, he recalls. I felt trapped.
weightless. Its so good we laugh out loud. Id ask servers: Did the customers smile? Did they say
It was only after 10 days of eating my way through Tokyo anything? What did they eat rst? Frustrated, he began
that I realised I hadnt once sat at a proper table. Instead, peeking through a curtain to spy on his guests. How else
I balanced on a bar seat, being served something delicious would I know if they liked it?
across a countertop. The settings varied whether I was in At a counter, the relationship between chef and diner
a rowdy yakitori joint or a hushed Michelin three-star but is a far more revealing exchange. Dining as theatre? This
the set-up was always the same. is dining as backstage pass. You see close up the blowtorch
The Japanese may no longer own counter dining, but caramelising your foie gras; the planter overowing
they embraced it long before the rest of us, and theyve with shiso; a giant octopus, splayed on a butcher block,
inarguably perfected the form. The counter/open-kitchen sliced inches from your plate; and, not least, the unguarded
arrangement often known as kappo-style dining emerged moments that transpire when a chef is deep in his craft. In
in 19th-century Osaka, mainly at casual everyday spots. By a culture known for its polish and perfectionism, where the
the end of the 20th century, the trend had spread across real thing often seems hidden behind a scrim, theres a
Japan and into more rened restaurants (not least sushi refreshing, almost disarming intimacy to all of this, which
bars, which helped globalise the format). feels out of character yet somehow quintessentially Japanese.
Today, kappo is above all pragmatic: here in the land
of capsule hotels and minivan-size apartments, few
restaurants have the square footage for tables and chairs Raise the bar
and a separate kitchen. But the format endures by choice Below, our favourite pull-up-a-stool spots, sorted here by speciality
as well as necessity. Even restaurateurs who can afford a whether its the spiciest ramen, the iciest coffee or (were calling it)
Western-style oor plan typically choose to put the cooks Tokyos next great sushi restaurant
up front and in view, behind a bar. Counter dining is course omakase menu takes
simply the preferred mode of eating here, and its SUSHI about an hour.
popularity underscores some key distinctions. SushiYa Sushi set menu from AED 270;
First, dining solo carries none of the stigma that it does The scene: Hidden in an alley off 0081-3-3571 7900
in many other parts of the world; walk into any Tokyo another alley in Ginza, SushiYa
restaurant and half the clientele will likely be eating alone. (literally Sushi Shop) looks like R AMEN
Counter seating is ideal for parties of one or two though your typical sushi den a boxy room Kikanbo
(perhaps thankfully) not so much for groups. with an L-shaped counter at the The scene: Youll know Ren
Second, in Japan cooking is about the process as much centre. But its run by Takao Ishiyama, Redzepis go-to spicy ramen joint
as the product. For the chef, it becomes a performance a 6ft-tall, 32-year-old genius who just north of Kanda Station by the
deserving a proper stage, with all eyes on him. (Even today has joined the ranks of Tokyo sushi line out front, a dozen hipsters
its almost always men behind the counter.) For the customer, artisans in just four years. And the deep. Inside, the kitchen is obscured
watching a chef work is central to enjoying the meal and sh! Otoro tuna as fatty and luscious by steam rising from a cauldron
even high-end places have little in the way of dcor to as a slab of pancetta. Bonito smoked of scalding broth and tumbling
distract from the main event. over straw. Hokkaido ikura, perked over the counter, where 15 lucky
The experience is not purely visual, either. There up with yuzu zest. Right now, this souls sit dabbing their brows and
are meals that are meant to be listened to, not just seen, is the best in town. slurping oni (demon) ramen: a
smelled and tasted, says Yukari Sakamoto, a Tokyo- The strategy: Plan ahead the ery miso broth spiked with chillies
based chef and author. The rhythmic beat of a knife eight seats book up a month and Sichuan peppercorns, best
julienning cabbage at a tonkatsu restaurant. The telltale in advance. Takao-sans multi- knocked back with cold Asahi hops.

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 113


114 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017
You may notice
a chef glancing
your way as he
prepares your
nigiri, sizing up
your mouth and
shaping the
rice into a
perfect bite

House-made Campari at
Bar BenFiddich. Opposite:
A sugitama, the traditional
cedar ball typically hung
outside sake breweries,
in front of Jimbocho
Den restaurant
top cocktail dens, this one is tricky to
IZAK AYA nd, hidden on the ninth oor of an
Kotaro ofce tower (thank god for Google
The scene: Chances are youll be Maps). You dont need to reserve,
the only non-local here. Tokyos but have your hotel call ahead.
top chefs and the beau monde of Cocktails from AED 55;
Shibuya come to Kotaro Hayashis 0081-3-6279 4223
10-seat counter for rened seasonal
renditions of hearty Japanese pub MUSIC
food, like tofu topped with sauted Bar Martha
leeks and fried baby sardines. The scene: Now multiplying across
Kotaro-san is passionate about Tokyo, the record bar is one of
sake; working with just nine small- Japans great 21st-century trends,
scale jizake breweries, hes able to albeit a very last-century concept.
score rare seasonal allocations. Like the basement rec room of
The strategy: Put yourself in Kotaro- your party-loving music-nerd
sans hands. He and his staff speak friend, record bars are all about
minimal English, but hell happily vintage vinyl, strong drinks and the
guide you through the meal. (A appreciation thereof. Youre here
The strategy: Come mid-afternoon, surrounding Kagurazaka district is translation app helps.) to shut up, listen and drink. This
between peak times, to minimise called Little Paris. Shop its boutiques Average meal from AED 190; elegant bar in Ebisu is among the
the wait. The line can take 30 to in the afternoon, then hit Toritama in 0081-3-54 5705 more polished options, with superb
40 minutes, the meal lasts maybe the early evening to nab a seat. cocktails and a huge collection of
10. (You place your order using a Skewers from AED 8; 0081-3-6457 GRILL soul, funk and jazz, played through
vending-machine-like contraption 5131, toritama.net Jomon Roppongi a tube amp and tweed-covered
that spits out a ramen ticket.) The scene: The Roppongi outpost of speakers, each the size of a fridge.
Ramen from AED 25; 0081-3-6206 0239 MODER N JAPANESE this popular yakitori and grill house The strategy: Theyre dead serious
Jimbocho Den is packed with young Japanese about forbidding loud conversation,
TEMPUR A The scene: Tokyos most joyful couples and groups who are there and theres a strict no-photos policy;
Ippoh high-end restaurant is overseen by to drink hard. The upside? The food youll have to be sneaky about
The scene: Masaru Seki comes 38-year-old Zaiyu Hasegawa (whom is sensational and the party crowd Instagramming that handblown
from an esteemed line of master Brazilian star chef Alex Atala hails as mostly adjourns to tables in the back. coupe. (Or head to Kaminarimon
tempura chefs; this elegant Japans greatest young talent). What Better to sit at the bar opposite the and buy one at Sokichi, every Tokyo
restaurant in Ginza (a quiet, multi- sets Zaiyu-san apart is his devotion to grill, from which come treats like bartenders go-to shop.)
room space above a Barneys New laughter a rarity in Michelin-starred molten beef short ribs and ame- Hops from AED 25; 0081-3-3441
York) is a branch of the 166-year- kitchens. To sit at Dens eight-seat kissed persimmons wrapped in meat. 5055, martha-records.com/martha
old Osaka original where his father counter is to dive headlong into an The strategy: Like many spots in
and grandfather worked. You never eight- to 10-course improv comedy Roppongi, Jomon is open late. Its COFFEE
dreamt tempura could be this show, as the chef and his crew trot ideal for a jet-lagged midnight meal, Caf de lAmbre
light, or this tasty. out surprise after kooky surprise. pre- or post-bar crawl. Warning: Your The scene: Any number of upstarts
The strategy: Book an early seat, Theres the grinning bobblehead of clothes will end up smelling smoky. lay claim to Tokyos artisanal-coffee
before 7pm on a weeknight, and Zaiyu-san on the counter, the carrots Skewers from AED 5; 0081-3-3405 throne, but this smoke-stained,
you have a shot at being the only carved into smiley faces hiding in 2585, teyandei.com sepia-toned relic in Ginza, founded
guest at Masaru-sans counter. He the salad greens and the goofy in 1948, trumps them all. Owner
speaks enough English to walk homage to KFC (delivered in a box COCKTAILS Ichiro Sekiguchi, who turned 102 this
you through the ingredients. marked Den-tucky Fried Chicken): Bar BenFiddich year, was pour-over before it was
Tempura from AED 112; 0081-3- Inside, what looks like a normal fried The scene: There are thousands cool, and each cup is meticulously
3289 5011, ippoh.com chicken wing is stuffed with a mix of no exaggeration of obsessively prepared. LAmbre even offers aged
sticky rice, potatoes or beans, and curated cocktail bars here, but none beans a 1954 Colombian, a 95
YAKITORI with seasonal ingredients such as quite like this tiny bote high above Guatemalan. But the real draw is
Toritama mushrooms and ume plum. Amusing, glitzy Shinjuku. Once your eyes the iced coffee, chilled in a cocktail
The scene: Hidden under a grape yes, and also seriously delicious. adjust to the candlelight, youll see shaker and served in a coupe.
bar, this rowdy yakitori house The strategy: Make a night of that this is no pretentious speakeasy The strategy: There are a few wobbly
makes the most of every part of it dinner unfolds over several but a convivial bar which happens tables, but youll want to sit at the
the chicken: over 30 preparations hours. Keep in mind that at the to serve phenomenal cocktails. counter to watch your barista at work.
in all, from miso-marinated thighs end of 2016, Den moved from Proprietor Hiroyasu Kayama, in an Coffee from AED 25;
to creamy thymus glands (really, fringe-y Jimbocho to upscale ivory dinner jacket, can suggest a 0081-3-3571 1551
theyre amazing). Its a circus at Gaienmae. The new digs retain rare Japanese spirit (try anything by
all hours, and you and 21 others the chefs counter setup and the Ichiro), but you should also order a
can watch it from the L-shaped private dining rooms. As ever, youll Negroni just to watch him craft his
GETTING THERE
Emirates (emirates.com), Etihad
counter as the resident re-jugglers need to call up to two months in own Campari using a mortar and
Airways (etihad.com) and Qatar
toss skewers across the grill, advance to reserve. pestle, mysterious tinctures and a
Airways (qatarairways.com)
unfazed by the ames. Set menu from AED 470; 0081-3- dozen botanicals.
y direct to Tokyo
The strategy: The expat-heavy 3222 3978, jimbochoden.com The strategy: Like most of Tokyos

116 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


At Toritama, the yakitori
skewers are made up
of all parts of a chicken.
Opposite: Baby gizzard
shad, medium fatty tuna
and lean tuna at SushiYa
Striped buttonless
Get the look Pack right for this months destinations
RALPH
LAUREN
PURPLE LABEL
A/W 16

shirt, AED 1,539,


Sandy Liang
at LE66

Sneakers, AED 3,110,


Giuseppe Zanotti

Sneakers,
AED 1,299,
Diesel
COACH
A/W 16

Merino sweater,
AED 1,480,
Tods

Peace satchel,
OTTAWA
Youll need to wrap up while exploring this Leather gloves,
AED 365,
AED 2,300, Canadian citys new museums and restaurant Ted Baker
Tory Burch
scene accessorise with beanies, gloves
Chronospace Evo
and comfy shoes Night Mission,
AED 16,800,

WORDS: RHEA SARAN; STYLE: CHLOE BOSHER; PHOTOS: ALAMY


Breitling

White trousers,
Ladossi beanie, AED 616,
AED 99, Aldo Eden Park
at namshi.com

Kale Fix
Protecting
Shot, AED 169,
Taffeta skirt with Fur-trimmed Nip + Fab at
belt, AED 2,445, parka, AED 3,170, beautysolutions-
Peter Pilotto at Letter pendant, Canada Goose at me.com
boutique1.com AED 1,650, matchesfashion.com
La Marquise
Wool-blend felt
peacoat, AED 2,945,
Tomas Maier at
net-a-porter.com
Shirt, AED 660,
Sandro

STELLA
McCARTNEY
CRUISE 17
Sunglasses,
AED 1,130,
Giorgio Armani
at Sunglass Hut

Shorts,
AED 260,
Deus Ex Machina
at West LA

Sprinkles Fest Sandals,


AED 2,295, Tabitha Simmons
at modaoperandi.com

HERMS
S/S 17

SEYCHELLES
Shades of green and blue perfectly mirror the setting of
this Indian Ocean island. Be sure to get a pedicure
to make the most of open-toed footwear
Hat, AED 297,
Bikini, AED 505, Hackett London
Vilebrequin

Sunglasses,
AED 770,
Michael Kors

Backpack,
price on
request,
Dress, AED 3,550, Philipp Plein
Elisabetta Franchi
Bag,
AED 1,030,
Maje Silver bomber,
AED 227, Asos
Hat, AED 150,
Ecua-Andino
at Hamac

Sandals, AED 520,


The Pretty Lacoste
Eyeshadow Palette,
AED 155, Ciat at
Bloomingdales FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 119
SLUG
CONTEST

Where
are
you?
P
erched on a plateau in a
country that shares borders
with Belgium, France and
Germany, this nancial
institution is an architectural gem.
Celebrated Pritzker-winning architect
Professor Gottfried Bohm was
commissioned to create this space in
1989 and two years later the nance
WORDS: SHIREEN KHANDELWAL; PHOTO: GALLERYSTOCK

giant moved into this iconic landmark


made of steel, glass and concrete. The
building also houses an impressive
collection of art, including paintings,
sculptures and photography, and
hosts exhibitions and concerts as
well. Where are you?

PRIZE
Email your answer identifying the
structure, city and country where
the photograph was taken to
contest@appgulf.com and you
could win a four-night stay for two
at Milaidhoo Island, Maldives.

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 121


CONTEST

O WIN A FOUR-NIGHT
n an island in the heart of the Baa Atoll
UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, the newly
opened Milaidhoo Island resort is custom-
made for comfort. With its ethos of barefoot
informality and deeming guests storywriters instead
of holidaymakers, the resort offers an authentic
STAY FOR TWO
experience, embracing Maldivian culture.
A 35-minute seaplane ride from Male, the
secluded island retreat is intimate and natural without
AT MILAIDHOO
compromising on style or luxury. The 30 thatched-
roof over-water villas and 20 private beach villas,
designed by local architect Mohamed Shafeeq,
ISLAND, MALDIVES
make use of materials and ttings that capture
An over-water villa
contemporary Maldivian style. Sun-lled interiors with a private pool.
feature pale woods and natural fabrics with splashes Below: Villas open
of vibrant tropical colour. All villas have private up 180 degrees
freshwater swimming pools with spacious sundecks,
and maximise the potential for outdoor living by
opening up 180 degrees to allow the picturesque
surroundings to become part of the room.
Ringed by a rich coral reef, snorkelling and diving
here are highlights, and the resort offers guests access
to the nearby protected marine area Hanifaru Bay,
the site of the largest seasonal groupings of manta
rays in the world and one of the best whale shark
spotting locations in the Maldives. Dolphin cruises and
excursions to local villages can also be arranged.
Milaidhoos signature over-water restaurant, Batheli,
shaped like three traditional Maldivian sailing boats,
features seafood and elevated cuisine inspired by the
Maldivian Spice Route. Guests can dine on the deck
of the restaurant under the stars, or indoors watching
the marine life through glass oors. The Shoreline Grill
and Ocean restaurants round out the culinary WINNER:
offerings, alongside two bars. DECEMBER 2016
The spa offers a comprehensive range of
The winner of Decembers
treatments combining the power of botanicals with
Where are you? competition is
healing traditions from Africa in four over-water
Walid Elsherif from Dubai who
treatment suites with expansive views of the sky and
correctly identied the location as
ocean, as well as organic and natural spa therapies
The Center for Asian Art at
by Elemis, TheraNaka and Coola. Guests can enjoy
The Ringling, Florida, USA.
complimentary daily yoga or meditation sessions in the
He won a three-night stay
over-water open-air pavilion, where a range of other
for two at Baros Maldives.
private and group classes are also available.
To win a four-night stay for two at Milaidhoo
Island, Maldives on a half-board basis, including
seaplane transfers and a 90-minute spa treatment
for two, correctly identify this issues Where are you?
competition by February 28, 2017.
Reservations are subject to availability. The prize
is valid until February 28, 2018, is non-transferrable,
cannot be redeemed for cash and does not include
public holidays. Flights, minibar and all other expenses
not stated in this prize are subject to payment either on
consumption or departure. For more information, call
00960-665 4441 or visit milaidhoo.com

COMPETITION RULES 1. Entries for Cond Nast Travellers Where are you? competition should be sent via email to: contest@appgulf.com 2. Winners will be judged at the discretion of Cond Nast Traveller. The decision
of the judges will be nal and binding. No correspondence will be entertained. Only one correct answer will be registered per entrant per issue. 3. Each entry must arrive no later than February 28, 2017. Winners will be
contacted by email or telephone whenever possible. 4. The entries must be in English and complete in all respects. 5. Cond Nast Traveller is not responsible for late entries. Illegible or mechanically produced entries are not
eligible. Entries by text message are not eligible. 6. Prizes will not be transferred or exchanged for cash or any other item. No refunds or credits for changes or cancellations are allowed. All other expenses and costs, which
are not specied as being included in the prize, are the sole responsibility of the winner. 7. All prizes must be redeemed prior to the expiry date. 8. Taxes, if any, are the sole responsibility of the winner. 9. The Where are you?
competition is open to readers of Cond Nast Traveller aged 18 and over on the date of entry and who are ordinarily residents of the GCC. 10. Employees of Cond Nast Traveller (Arab Publishing Partners), ITP, participating
promotional agencies, contributors to Cond Nast Traveller, and the families of any of those above are not eligible to enter the contest. 11. All entries to the Where are you? competition become the sole property of Cond
Nast Traveller and will not be acknowledged nor returned. 12. Entries become the property of Cond Nast Traveller and may be used for such purpose and in such media as the company deems t, without requiring the
participants prior permission. 13. Acceptance of the prize constitutes consent for the use of the winners name and likeness and those of his/her travelling companion for editorial, advertising and publicity purposes. 14.
Cond Nast Traveller will not be liable for any loss, damage or expense incurred by a prize winner or by his/her travelling companion (for example, costs of repatriation) as a consequence of any party participating in
providing the prize becoming insolvent or entering into liquidation or bankruptcy. 15. Cond Nast Traveller reserves the right to amend any or all of the terms of this contest, or the prizes on offer, at any time without
prior notice. 16. Contestants, by entering the competition, agree to be bound by the above rules, terms and conditions.

122 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


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SPEAKERS INCLUDE:
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Ministry of Foreign Aairs Lapo Elkann CEO, Pitti Immagine; Bandana Tewari Artistic Director,
of the Sultanate of Oman Chairman and Founder, Chairman, YOOX Fashion Features Director, Ermenegildo Zegna
Italia Independent Group NET-A-PORTER GROUP Vogue India
Elie Saab and Garage Italia Customs Paul Andrew
Designer Jos Neves Sybilla Creative Director,
Amal Al Raisi Founder and CEO, Designer Womens Footwear,
Alber Elbaz Founder and Creative Farfetch Salvatore Ferragamo
Designer Director, Dar Al Aseel Rhea Saran
Frdric Malle Editor in Chief, Edgardo Osorio
Guram Gvasalia David Crickmore Perfume Publisher, Cond Nast Traveller Founder, Aquazzura
Chief Executive Ocer, CEO, Amouage Editions de Parfums Middle East
Vtements Frdric Malle Rania Masri
Pascal Mouawad Sophie Hackford General Manager,
Roberto Vedovotto Co-Guardian, Yasmin Sewell Future Thinker Level Shoes
President and CEO, Retail Division, Mouawad Fashion Director,
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Noor Fares SVP, International Director, Chairwoman and Creative
Pierre Denis Founder, Noor Fares Philippa Malmgren Handbags & Accessories, Director, Vionnet
CEO, Jimmy Choo Fine Jewellery Author of Signals EMERI & Asia Christies
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ADVICE

The experts Travel wisdom from those in the know


Explore Gaudis Park
Gell between meetings
in Barcelona

Which destination is ideal for combining business and leisure?

ALEXIA ALIA TIM WOOD SARAH PICKFORD


Managing director, Editor-in-chief, Personal travel consultant,
Quintessentially UAE, Dubai travelpulse.com, New Jersey Travel Counsellors, Dubai
While Bali is synonymous with serene, San Francisco has evolved rapidly from Barcelona is a fabulous place to combine
blissful holidays, the island of the gods is trolleys and a famous bridge into the business and leisure, with an array of luxury
also the perfect destination for business. epicentre of technology start-ups and some hotels offering modern business and
With a relaxed environment, excellent of Americas best universities. But around conference facilities in close proximity to the
meeting facilities, reliable internet service that ever-present Silicon Valley vibe is a tourist hotspots. In the spring and summer
and outstanding hospitality, Balis Nusa Dua cultural scene that makes this city a must months, spend your downtime relaxing by
is a preferred destination for corporations for bleisure. The food scene throughout the Marina or at one of the many beaches. Or
and digital nomads for meetings, the citys boroughs is sprinkled with James take your laptop along as Wi-Fi connectivity
conferences and team-building exercises. Beard-level chefs and restaurants. Sports fans is widely available for those who cant avoid
Plus, theres no better place to unwind if have baseball at AT&T Park, Pac-12 football at work. Short on time? Join one of the many
you want to stay a few extra days once nearby Stanford, and the NBAs Warriors and self-walking tours between meetings to get
youve wrapped up business. Recognised NFLs Raiders are a short BART ride away in a real avour of what the city has to offer. Its
as a mecca for fun in the sun and spiritual Oakland. Beyond the tech giants like Apple easy to navigate using the metro and tram
retreats, you can go from linen suit to and Uber, the area is an incubator for cultural system, and theres so much to see and do
beachwear and yoga pants in no time. While trends. Want to do business on the links? with stunning historical landmarks, including
PHOTO: ALAMY

away the hours wandering around Seminyak Pebble Beach on the Monterey Peninsula and Gaudis Sagrada Familia. Barcelona also has
with its cool restaurants, shops and beaches, the Olympic Club offer world-class settings. easy connections to other European cities
or head to Ubud where you can escape any Plus, the picture-perfect location along the by high-speed rail and the international
work stress and get your Zen on at its many Northern California coast offers a quick trip to airport is only 12km away, meaning you
retreats and yoga studios. A job well done. Napa Valley for some post business-trip fun. can make the most of every minute.

124 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


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MARCH 2015 COND NAST TRAVELLER 13
WHERE TO BUY

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Doha, 00974-4-450 7191; Kuwait BEAUTY Kuwait City, 00965-2-227 0290 00974-4-433 5511; Riyadh,
City, 00965-2220 0578; Jeddah, Bobbi Brown Dubai, 00971- Bulgari Abu Dhabi, 00971-2- 00966-11-461 6960
00966-12-283 3178 4-330 8151 681 8828; Dubai, 00971-4-330 MUJJO at Virgin Megastore: Abu
Le Coq Sportif at Galeries Lafayette: Chanel at Harvey Nichols: 8834; Doha, 00974-4-413 4568; Dhabi, 00971-2-644 7882; Dubai,
Dubai, 00971-4-339 9933 Dubai, 00971-4-409 8888; Kuwait City, 00965-2-299 6498; 00971-4-325 3330

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 127


TROPICAL PARADISE
Just a quick hop from the GCC, explore the sunny side of life in the
Maldives with its beautiful coral reefs, pristine white sand beaches and
abundance of activities on land and sea. From diving at Banana Reef to
catching a wave, shopping at local markets to savouring the Maldivian
cuisine, rich with avours of the sea, theres plenty to keep all ages
entertained. Home to luxurious hotels and resorts, the Maldives is the
ideal destination to relax and reconnect with nature.
visitmaldives.com

Most
wanted
A look at what caught our eye this month, from
Valentines treats to exotic escapes

FLAVOURS OF THE EAST


Get a taste of the vibrant culinary
culture of Thailand at Mekong, the
award-winning Asian restaurant at
Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort, which
is introducing Khan Tok, a new dining
concept from northern Thailand. The
dining style features an arrangement POWER MEETS STYLE
of dishes served on a raised tray, ideal Get road trip ready with the Mercedes-Benz GLC Coup.
for sharing, with authentic delicacies The rst mid-size sport utility coup from the brand, it
like spicy prawn salad and beef curry combines athletic agility with modern design and comfort.
with bamboo shoots, along with a Dynamic and compact in appearance, the exterior features
basket of sticky rice and a sumptuous wide, muscular shoulders, harmoniously modelled wheel
Thai dessert. Guests can dine in Asian- arches and a diamond radiator grille with one louvre. The
inspired rickshaw-style seating on the car is among the fastest of the brands sports vehicles,
outdoor terrace or in a private dining allowing both standard-t sports suspension and direct
room for more intimate celebrations. sports steering as well as emphatic acceleration.
dubai-palm.anantara.com/mekong mercedes-benz.com

128 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


MOST WANTED

SWEETS FOR YOUR SWEET


Say Je taime with indulgent limited-edition
heart-shaped artisan chocolates from
zChocolats 2017 Valentines Day Collection,
handcrafted in Aix-en-Provence.
zchocolat.com

AUTHENTIC TRAVEL
Travel like an insider in the most exotic countries with Abercrombie & Kents travel packages
focusing on immersing yourself in the culture. Go local in Tokyo by learning how to make
soba noodles with renowned chef Akila Inouye, try your hand at manga drawing or
experience an energetic ninja class. In Shanghai get a taste of local life by learning to play
folk drums in the nearby water town of Zhujiajiao and come back with a new skill.
abercrombiekent.com

MODERN CLASSICS
Accessorise your holiday wardrobe with the
new Tateossian collection, featuring cufinks
and bracelets with a playful twist.
tateossian.com

BAGS OF STYLE
Travel in style with Tumis
Alpha Bravo collection,
a range of versatile and CITY BREAK
contemporary business Travelling to Azerbaijan has never been easier. Beginning
and day bags, available this year, travellers of 81 nationalities can apply for
in the brands iconic an Azerbaijan visa in the comfort of their homes
ballistic material using online visa application technology. Coming at a
and distressed, yet time when tourism to Azerbaijan is booming, the new
rened, leather. platform opens up travellers to exciting events such
tumi.com as the sporty Islamic Solidarity Games in May or the
European Grand Prix in Baku in June.
azerbaijan-visa.com

FEBRUARY 2017 COND NAST TRAVELLER 129


Beds are covered in Frette
linens and there are LOccitane
en Provence amenities in
the bathroom

Room with a view


NEW YORK THE WILLIAM VALE, BROOKLYN

ROOM 1222

N
ew York is a city where change happens so fast you have to make the most of every eeting moment before its gone. Some
visitors do this by riding the 102 oors up to the top of the Empire State Building to take it all in, while others prefer the
silhouetted view of the famous skyscraper from the opposite bank of the East River. This is where youll nd the newly
WORDS: MARTA SAHELICES;

launched William Vale, sumptuous and achingly current, with an extraordinary panorama of Manhattan from Room 1222. The
boutique bolthole is located at the edge of tony Williamsburg, next door to Greenpoint and McCarren Park but who needs
PHOTO: JODY KIVORT

that when you have Vale Park, the hotels own 15,000sqft elevated public park, complete with shady green spaces and
postcard views. Comprising 183 rooms, 25 of them suites, the towering, futuristic property has changed the skyline of Billyburg,
as the neighbourhood is affectionately called. The hotels restaurants are led by award-winning head chef Andrew Carmellini, and
include southern Italian-style Leuca for wood-red coastal cuisine; custom cocktails, soul food and small plates with 360-degree
views at rooftop bar Westlight; and drinks and snacks at Vale Pool, right by what is now the citys longest hotel pool at 60ft.
Doubles from AED 1,100; 001-718-631 8400, thewilliamvale.com

130 COND NAST TRAVELLER FEBRUARY 2017


Pont des Amoureux
Poetic Complications watch
white gold, diamonds, contre-jour enamel,
mechanical movement
with retrograde hours and minutes.

Haute Joaillerie, place Vendme since 1906

DUBAI: The Dubai Mall - Mall of the Emirates ABU DHABI: The Galleria Al Maryah Island 800-VAN-CLEEF (800-826-25333)
ABU DHABI: Etihad Towers +971 2 681 1919
www.vancleefarpels.com