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JUNE 2016

MY OWN PRIVATE VENICE


THE BEST APARTMENTS, PALAZZOS & VILLAS TO TAKE OVER AS YOUR OWN

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CONTENTS JUNE 2016

Features
66 Venice Scope out fresh angles on the city
by living like a local in your own canal-side crashpad

78 British coast Upcycling doesnt


get any better than this: beachcombed objects
transformed into a crazy-colourful art collection

86 Bornholm Is this the most fertile corner


of Europe? Follow the foodies who rst snuled
out Noma to Denmarks hot new avour destination

94 Great Barrier Reef A head-reeling


adventure above and below the surface of the worlds
trippiest underwater kingdom

106 Hydra Find out why the creative


crowd are mad about this tiny, rocky Greek
island where mules and pushbikes are
the only way to get around
PHOTOGRAPH: OLIVER PILCHER

A bedroom in the private home of interior designer Tino Zervudachi on the Greek island of Hydra

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 5


CONTENTS JUNE 2016
32 44

30
39
In this issue
10 Editors letter 118 Around the world with
X-Men star Rose Byrne
12 Contributors
120 In Britain Fond of sand dunes
17 Word of mouth The places and salty air? Quaint little villages
and people creating a stir around the here and there? Then make for
world, from Cornwall to Croatia the wild and shingly Sufolk Coast

26 Way of life Sun is shining, life 127 Flavour hunter Table to


is sweet on the Jamaican estate of book A next-generation Mexico

PHOTOGRAPHS: KETIL JACOBSEN; BOBBI LIN; OLIVER PILCHER ON THE COVER: ART PARTNER LICENSING
music mogul Chris Blackwell City churros joint. World on a plate
Tempura. Chefs secret supplies
30 Snapshot Viewpoints from Jason Atherton. Eat the street Paris.
high-minded architects Taste buzz Hawaiian pok.
How to barbecue Southern-style
32 The great European
escape Move over Barcelona: 152 Room with a view
Mallorcas capital Palma is the freshest Villa Tre Ville, Positano, Italy

60 design star on the Med

39 Where to stay Exclusive review


A rst look at Amanemu in Japan.
Bed-hopping with Jess Glynne.
132
Round-up Stylish new hotels in the
South of France. The Weekender
The Bull Inn, Charlbury, Oxfordshire

51 Style ile Summer hits and a


sleek surf shop. Beauty with Salma
ON THE COVER Hayek. Jewellery Mosaics in the mix.
A view of the Grand Canal If you only pack 4 things... For hair.
from Aman Venice Mens Kayaking with killer whales,
Photographed by plus the Americas Cup. Hotel on the
Frdric Lagrange scene Conservatorium, Amsterdam

65 Trendwatch This time its


personal: private spaces in public places

6 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


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EDITORS LETTER

Im mad about paris. Who knew? All those Paris clichs: the leaden rooftops,
the shining tower, the restaurants spilling out on the streets, the people having
sex in the window. They are all joyful. London is piffle compared to Paris, a brute,
a fist. Paris is as light as tulle, twirly and twinkly. And I hate the word twinkly! But
I cant help myself! Because it feels like, suddenly, after 20 years of completely flipping
hating the place, Ive fallen truly madly and deeply in love with it.
Why was I so dismissive of the city before? It wasnt Pariss fault. I had an
English boyfriend who lived here for a year in the eaves of a wonderful apartment
overlooking the Jardin des Tuileries. The problem was he also had a flatmate with
beautiful Rapunzel hair and an obsession with Brad Pitt. All day in the blasted
apartment we would talk about where Brad Pitt might be that night. Les Bains
Douches? Le Priv? Her hair was so sensational that we were compelled to have this conversation all day every
day because it did, in fact, seem entirely conceivable that if their paths were to cross, one look at her locks
and Brad would be in the bag. One weekend, however, in a desperate bid to move the conversation on, I flew
out to Paris in a new outfit. At the time it seemed like a good idea. Sitting on the light-dappled pavement in front
of the Caf de Flore, drinking espressos, it was plain for us all to see that a tight brown ribbed long-sleeved
polyester-mix minidress from Afflecks Palace in Manchester wasnt the thing.
But who cares? For 20 long years I may have associated Paris with an itching and scratching bordering on
a profound psychic discomfort, but now I am in love! I am taking photo after photo from my rooftop eyrie to
catch the view at its best angle, I am sploshing about in baths in the middle of the day, pouring in bubbles,
laughing gaily. I am wondering if I can move here and write books and call Paris funny nicknames. Just Paris!
The name itself is a light that goes on in my fingertips.
I am so happy, and so springy, that Im trying to stuff my great-niece into a Chanel pochette bag. My niece
is here for the weekend with her two babies and theyve come for tea. While my niece washes the elder one
in the bath I grab the tiny one she really is fantastically diddy to see how many things in the room I can fit
her into. A computer bag, easy-peasy. A shoebox, no sweat. The Chanel pochette was our undoing. It turns
out you can only truss up a baby so much.
Oh well. Later that night, high on Paris life, I see a taxi outside the hotel and grab it to go to dinner.
The streets are looking particularly beautiful, the parks resplendent. Hey, says the taxi driver. Is this trip
wait and return? No, I say breezily. Ill be there for dinner. So I may be some time. If I had known
that, I would not have accepted this fare, he says. I stare at him. I never said it was wait and return, so you did
know this. And if you didnt want to accept this fare, you should have refused before I got in your cab. He
pauses. There are Mtro stations where you are going. You should have taken the Mtro. Paris is a big place, its
got an airport. I dont know whether to stop and let you out now. I dont want to go to your destination any
more. Or, maybe you will have to give me a big tip.
Stop the car! Stop the car! I shout, I am getting out! I am getting out because you are a little creep. Im not
going to give you a big tip! But Im not going to let you ruin Paris either! Stop the flipping car!

This is the new issue of Cond Nast Traveller. For those who wont let the behaviour of one scheming little
bastard get in the way of their feelings for their true love.

Melinda Stevens
Editor

MelindaLP

All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press and may no longer be so on the date of publication.
Unless otherwise stated, hotel prices are low-season rates and restaurant prices are for a three-course meal for two without drinks

10 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


CONTRIBUTORS
This month, we asked our writers and photographers to name their favourite beach

Stuart Haygarth Artist, British coastline (p78)


Antonia Quirke Writer, Hydra (p106) Dungeness in Kent is scattered with old wooden
Ive been to posher beaches, but my favourite is the Jersey Shore fishermens dwellings surrounded by decaying boats. Head to
in the USA. Specifically, Cape May Point. Even during The Pilot, a family-run inn with a nautical theme, which serves
cherry-coloured sunsets, youll often have the place to yourself. honest fish and chips with a selection of ales. Lancashire-born
Plus, youre only ever five minutes from a mustard-oozy hotdog. artist Stuart works out of his studio in East London
Antonia reports for From Our Own Correspondent across the BBC

Line Klein Photographer, Bornholm (p86)


Julian Evans Writer, Great Barrier Reef (p94) Heaven on earth is Cala Sa Nau, near Santany in Mallorca.
Plage de la Gravette, at the corner of old Antibes. I found You have to walk down through lots of pine trees, and when
this little prayer-rug of a beach 20 years ago. Its pristine, sheltered you reach the end, theres a small, narrow beach with azure
and at 8am it can make you feel like you own the whole glittering water and parasols made of palm fronds. Its a real find.
Med. Julian grew up in Brisbane. His book Transit of Venus has Food and interiors photographer Line lives in Copenhagen
been described as the best modern travelogue about the Pacific

Oliver Pilcher Photographer, Hydra (p106)


Skye McAlpine Writer, Venice (p66) Zahara de los Atunes on the Costa de la Luz. The beach
It has to be the 22km of pure white sand at Cable Beach is mobbed in summer, but it doesnt matter. Its mainly a Spanish
in Broome, the northernmost corner of Western Australia. crowd, and its a huge space. I go and bake myself in the warm
I spent a lot of time in Broome as a child, and for me it is a place North African winds that act like a fan-assisted oven. New York-
full of the happiest memories. Skye is the author of the From based Oliver recently spent time in the Scottish Highlands, where
My Dining Table blog, which explores food and life in Venice hes about to reopen Dundees oldest brewery, Ballingall & Son

12 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


EDITOR
Melinda Stevens
FEATURES ASSISTANT/PA TO THE EDITOR Tabitha Joyce

SENIOR EDITOR Peter Browne DEPUTY EDITOR Issy von Simson ACTING MANAGING EDITOR Katie Dixon MANAGING EDITOR Paula Maynard
FEATURES EDITOR Fiona Kerr EDITOR-AT-LARGE Steve King EDITORIAL/FASHION ASSISTANT INTERN Sarah Ilston

FASHION AND BEAUTY DIRECTOR Fiona Joseph WATCH & JEWELLERY EDITOR Jessica Diamond MENS EDITOR David Annand RETAIL EDITOR Thea Darricotte

ART DIRECTOR Pete Winterbottom DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR Paula Ellis SENIOR DESIGNER Nitish Mandalia PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Matthew Buck PICTURE EDITOR Karin Mueller

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Rick Jordan DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Grinne McBride SENIOR SUB-EDITOR Roxy Mirshahi

ONLINE EDITOR Laura Fowler DEPUTY ONLINE EDITOR Hazel Lubbock DIGITAL PICTURE EDITOR Sharon Forrester

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Jonathan Bastable, Horatio Clare, Ondine Cohane, Sophie Dahl, Sophie Dening, E Jane Dickson, Helen Fielding, Daisy Finer (Health & Spa), Giles Foden, Michelle Jana Chan,
Jeremy King, Emma Love, Kate Maxwell, Lee Marshall, Thomasina Miers, Reggie Nadelson, Harriet OBrien, Timothy OGrady, Tom Parker Bowles, Harry Pearson,
Adriaane Pielou (Health & Spa), Antonia Quirke, Paul Richardson, Anthony Sattin, Nicholas Shakespeare, Sally Shalam, Stanley Stewart

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
James Bedford, Mirjam Bleeker, David Crookes, Squire Fox, Alice Gao, Philip Lee Harvey, Ken Kochey, David Loftus, Martin Morrell, Tom Parker,
Michael Paul, Bill Phelps, Richard Phibbs, Oliver Pilcher, Kristian Schuller, Alistair Taylor-Young, Jenny Zarins

DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION AND RIGHTS Harriet Wilson EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER Camilla Fitz-Patrick
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L A R E C H E R C H E D E L U V R E
WORD OF MOUTH
Whats new in Cornwall Croatia Italy Devon
EDITED BY FIONA KERR

STRINGS
PHOTOGRAPH: JULIAN BROAD/CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES

ATTACHED
Six years ago Gorillaz the animated music project from Blur frontman
Damon Albarn became the rst big Western act to play Syria when they
performed at the 11th-century Damascus Citadel. The band were joined on
stage by Bobby Womack, The Clashs Mick Jones and musicians from the
Syrian National Orchestra, led by conductor Issam Rafea, who had added their
Arabic arrangements to the Gorillaz track White Flag. Many of those musicians
have since had to ee the country due to the conict, but this summer are
reunited with Albarn in London. Were so used to seeing Syria through the
prism of the news, he says. This concert will give a completely diferent
perspective. Its truly miraculous the sound they create. The Orchestra of
Syrian Musicians with Damon Albarn and guests play Londons Southbank
Centre on 25 June as part of 14-18 NOW. For details visit africaexpress.co.uk

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 17


WORD OF MOUTH

FUN TIMES
A summer-long private-island party in Croatia
is taking the festival concept to the next level
Boutique festivals are now a xture of our summers. But why settle
for a weekend of wellies and warm cider when you can be transported
to the tiny olive- and pine-tree-blanketed Croatian island of Otok
Obonjan, where an entirely new kind of experience pops up this year?
The festival will take over this 55-hectare private island with an eclectic
two-month programme thats a bit Wilderness, a bit Port Eliot.
From 18 July to 10 September, acts including DJ Shadow will play
at the stone amphitheatre overlooking the Adriatic, while at the
Geodome designed by the team behind the Eden Project there will
be workshops on a mind-broadening array of subjects from experts
including maths whizz professor Marcus du Sautoy and sustainability
innovator Rachel Armstrong. Elsewhere, theres an underwater
sculpture garden, an island cinema and a woodland wellbeing centre.
The whole place has been decked out with safari-style tents, breezy
beach clubs, late-night rum bars and restaurants dishing up everything
from just-caught seafood to organic pizza. Festivals do a good job
of keeping people happy for a few days, but this is much more, says
Dan Blackledge, one of Obonjans founders. We want to encourage
a real sense of community people can stay as long as they like and
do as little or as much as they want, but ultimately leave feeling
enriched. otokobonjan.com. Safari tents (sleep two) from about 60
per person per night, including live music, talks, performances and
return boat transfers from Sibenik AOIFE ORIORDAIN
PHOTOGRAPHS: KRIS MACCOTTA; DAN MEDHURST; LINKA A ODOM/IMAGEBRIEF.COM; MATTHEW OLIVER; SHUTTERSTOCK; GUS WEBSTER

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 19


WORD OF MOUTH

WAY OUT WEST


Its high noon at the British seaside as two of the biggest guns face of

CORNWALL DEVON
In St Ives the owners of Trevose All eyes on the tiny village
Harbour House have just unveiled of Gittisham near Honiton,
SANDS STUDIO (left), a one-bedroom where Robin Hutson launches
apartment with mid-century furniture his latest PIG HOTEL (above
and Porthgwidden Beach views (bottom and right) in July. The 27 rooms
left). Over in Fowey, THE OLD QUAY are spread between the main
HOUSE HOTEL has had a jaunty STAY Georgian building, former stable
overhaul by Brocante, one of the harbour blocks and two thatched
towns loveliest interior shops. Further longhouses. Theres an old folly in the
inland, Bodmins rustic ST TUDY INN 3,500-acre grounds, where you can puf
(top and bottom) will open its on a cigar, and, of course, a kitchen garden
bedrooms later this summer. for the Pigs signature 25-mile menu.

Rick and Jill Stein are busy this Devon is also on the gin at
month launching RUBYS, a bar SALCOMBE GIN DISTILLERY,
with a large gin collection next which washes up in July and will
door to their St Petrocs Hotel in have a tasting bar on a former
Padstow, and STEINS FISHERIES EAT boat-repair site in the town. Stop
AND SEAFOOD BAR (left) on by the village of Dartington, where
the harbour. The foodie scene is & the ALMOND THIEF (a pop-up
simmering in Penzance too, thanks bakery at Riverford Farm Shop)
to local stars Ben Tunniclife, the DRINK is now selling some of the best
man behind the TOLCARNE INN, and Bruce bread around at a tucked-away
Rennie, who set up THE SHORE here last year. caf on an industrial estate.

For hardy outdoor swimming, visit Penzances Health-kickers should head to holistic
pretty seaside JUBILEE POOL, which reopens this hideaway YEOTOWN, where ve eco
rooms have just been built out of straw
month after a major ret. In-the-know surfers are
heading out of Bude to less crowded Widemouth
DO bales and hemp. For family thrills, check
Bay, a low-key spot that now has a groovy out Devons biggest rollercoaster BIG
waterfront bar aptly named BEACH HOUSE (left). SHEEP THEME PARK (right) in Bideford.

POLDARK will reacquaint TV viewers with the north Living Architectures SECULAR RETREAT,
Cornish coast when it returns in autumn, while the revamped a hilltop haven sleeping 10, will be taking
bookings for the end of 2016. Its close to
TATE ST IVES will switch the focus south-west again when
its extension, sunk into the hillside so as not to compromise
ONES Salcombe, where TIDES REACH HOTEL
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID GRIFFEN; CARMODY

(up the road from sibling Harbour Hotel) is preparing for a 2017
sea views from above, opens in March 2017. And the rst
TO
GROARKE; IAN KINGSNORTH/IMAGBRIEF.

hotel at the EDEN PROJECT will set a new benchmark in refresh. Also next year, BURGH ISLAND HOTEL has plans for
COM; DANIEL SCOTT; SHUTTERSTOCK

eco design when it opens next year. WATCH a modern suite built across two clifs (below), and chef Michael
Caines, whose dishes, including his famous strawberry mousse
(above right), won Gidleigh Park two Michelin stars, is working
on his rst hotel in Lympstone. EMILY MATHIESON

20 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


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WORD OF MOUTH

making waves
Amid the grandes dames that have
settled along Lake Como, a sleek
new breed of hotel is on the rise
Lake Como is not known for its cutting edge. True, there
are eruptions of modernism around its waters among them
Giuseppe Terragnis 1930s Casa del Fascio but when it
comes to places to stay, antique opulence reigns. However,
a pair of newcomers on the Como town prong of this wishbone-
shaped lake are challenging the paradigm. Opening this summer
is 30-room Il Sereno, a sister venture to the Christian Liaigre-
designed Le Sereno in St Barths. This striking transparent
box has been conjured up by Spanish architect Patricia
Urquiola only the second time shes worked on a hotel (the
rst, her crisp, light-lled designs for the Mandarin Oriental
Barcelona). Outside, along 140 metres of prime waterfront, is a
20-metre innity pool surrounded by gardens laid out by Patrick
Blanc, famed for his green walls (there are two here), and a
restaurant from Alex Simone of Londons Il Baretto. And yet the
trailblazer of this new scene was Filario, a 22-room conversion
of a former wire factory that launched last year a few miles
away. With muted modern interiors by Alessandro Agrati
of lifestyle brand Culti, this is the rst Design Hotel on any of
the Italian lakes. But the eastern shores original champion,
CastaDiva, is not resting on its laurels. This summer, Gennaro
Esposito known for convention-challenging combos such as
pasta and raw seafood comes on board as executive chef.
Meanwhile, on the lesser-visited Lecco side
of the lake, nine-suite Villa Lario is also causing
a stir, taking a traditional villa and giving it a
series of contemporary tweaks. ilsereno.com;
lario.it; castadivaresort.com; villalario
resortmandello.com LEE MARSHALL

Designers impression of the innity pool at Il


Sereno, Lake Como. Top right, the entranceway
of the hotel, and, inset, a bedroom at Villa Lario
22 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016
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WORD OF MOUTH

FRAME OF MIND
He has won a BAFTA for his writing, but now William
Dalrymple has swapped his pen for a smart phone
In his acclaimed books (nine of them, spanning the Middle East, India and
Central Asia), author and historian William Dalrymple conjures up vivid
images of ancient kingdoms and colourful portraits of village life. But his
black-and-white photographs a collection of which is published this month,
drawing on his travels from Scotland to Leh have a moodier tone. They
come from diferent places, he says. With writing you reect on ideas; its
an intellectual process. When you see a beautiful landscape, its an intuitive
emotional response to whats in front of you. For Dalrymple, his interest in
photography actually came rst, shooting on his beloved Contax 35mm SLR,
inspired by Don McCullin and Bill Brandt. But it was a smart phone that led
him recently to rediscover that passion and on which he took these intriguing
pictures. I now have an excellent little camera permanently in my back
pocket. The Writers Eye (HarperCollins, 14.99) is out now. An exhibition
of the photographs opens at Londons Grosvenor Gallery on 23 June

the trends taking off and those running out of fuel

JET-SET GIN EUROPEAN HOLIDAYS


PHOTOGRAPHS: WILLIAM DALRYMPLE

The worlds rst airport gin distillery is open at the Nicholas Culpeper in London The EU referendum takes place on 23 June. But could Brexit mean increased
Gatwick, whipping up the spirit in a copper still. Grab a craft G&T before you y. holiday costs and fewer ights to Europe, as ABTA predicts?
BRIT ROCK ELBOW DUELS
Festivals abroad might have the sun, but this months Coldplay/Muse/Adele A bill has been proposed in the USA forcing airlines to increase their
triumvirate at Glastonbury makes a good case for digging out the wellies. minimum seat width (currently just 16.5in). An end to middle-seat misery?
WILD POP-UPS DIY PICNICS
Forget cocktail bars in shipping containers now you can stay in Tanzanias Try Scottish company Forest Holidays Picnic Butler, who leads guests on nature
Roving Bushtops: Transformer-like safari tents that fold out from boxes on wheels. trails, before serving a slap-up spread on a tartan rug. SARAH ILSTON

24 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


Explore the unexpected Washington, DC

WA SHI N GT O N , DC
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WAY OF LIFE

WILD WORLD
He made stars out of Bob Marley and Grace Jones, and is behind
the barefoot Jamaican hotels where the jet set come to tune out.
Now Chris Blackwell has opened the gates of his private estate
By Ondine Cohane. Photographs by Julien Capmeil
Clockwise from this picture:
organic produce from Chris
Blackwells Pantrepant estate;
Blackwell outside Ian Flemings
villa, GoldenEye; lunch on
the veranda at Pantrepant;
curried lamb and garlic okra.
Opposite, Blackwells
own house at Pantrepant

y car moves slowly along a bumpy road lit only

M
by stars until finally I see the glow of a guesthouse
around the corner. A perfect roast chicken with
mashed potatoes and a plate of steamed callaloo
awaits, served alongside a glass of cold white wine in
a cosy kitchen. And then its time for bed.
The next morning Im woken up by birdcall, and as I sit on the
veranda with a coffee, hummingbirds flit by. My only companion
is a large iguana with a bright-blue crest. On the Pantrepant estate
there are 2,500 acres of farmland, rainforest and the majestic
Martha Brae River; my closest neighbours are herds of burnished-
mahogany cattle and doe-eyed, white Brahman bulls. The trees are
monumental and varied: pineapple, breadfruit, lychee, West Indian
cherry, black banana, coconut and cashew. The background lowing
of the cows and gentle hum of cicadas are all that break the silence.
Perhaps it makes sense that this is where Chris Blackwell
would choose to retreat after a noisy career in the music industry.
Thirty miles inland from Montego Bay, its the antithesis of
everything slick, packaged and crowded. He bought this former
cattle farm about 25 years ago, just after selling Island Records,
at the time one of the worlds largest independent labels, to
Polygram for 207 million. I was looking for a house by a river,
he says. I was taken to a 17th-century property that was beautiful,
but way too big. So they brought me to this farm with a busha
(plantation manager) house, which was dwarfed by the largest tree
I had ever seen. I bought the tree really.
In many ways Blackwell has been a key player in putting
Jamaica in the spotlight. After selling ska singles from the

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 27


WAY OF LIFE

Clockwise from this picture:


horses at Pantrepant;
the kitchen at Blackwells
home; a building on the
estate; a bedroom in
the guesthouse; homemade
cofee ice cream. Opposite,
from top: the guesthouse
at dusk; breadfruit tree;
Blackwell at GoldenEye
back of a Mini Cooper, his first hit was Millies My Boy
Lollipop. Bob Marley and the Wailers were signed in 1972, joining
names such as Jimmy Cliff and Toots & The Maytals. Then, as a
hotelier, Blackwell built and sold his empire in Miamis South
Beach to concentrate on opening Strawberry Hill, The Caves and
Ian Flemings former villa GoldenEye, where Jay Z, Beyonc, Kate
Moss, Naomi Campbell and others have all come to hide away.
Despite his success, Blackwell remains a very private man.
He opened up Pantrepant for farm-to-table lunches quietly in
2013, and only since the end of last year has offered overnight
stays in the two-bedroom guesthouse on the estate. The look
here is simple and organic, a sort of country Caribbean, which was
created by his go-to architect Ann Hodges who worked with him
on GoldenEye. Most of the furniture was made using indigenous
timber; crockery and linens are from Royal Hut, founded by
Blackwells late wife, Mary Vinson, a Parsons-trained fashion
and textile designer (Grace Jones introduced them in the early
1980s). Old maps of Jamaica hang on the wall alongside paintings
by local artists including Albert Artwell. But at its heart, Pantrepant
is still a working farm. Luis Rojas, the farm manager and graduate
of Costa Ricas Earth University, shares the same philosophy as
Blackwell free-range and no pesticides to provide the estate
and hotels with homegrown produce and meat. Rojas points
out the variety of vegetables and herbs that had to be imported
in the past: the soil brims with bok choy, kale, radish, basil, rocket,
broccoli, lettuce, okra and marigold flowers. The idea to showcase
Jamaicas diverse food makes sense for an island mostly known
for jerk chicken. And with a recycling programme and the
introduction of solar power, the farm is a hugely successful
example of sustainable tourism.

IT MAKES SENSE TO RETREAT HERE AFTER A CAREER IN MUSIC. IT IS


THE ANTITHESIS OF EVERYTHING SLICK, PACKAGED AND CROWDED
After a stroll around the estate, I head along the river to
the swimming hole. Between dips I stretch out in the little shaded
pavilion or on blankets and pillows strewn on the grass. There
is a cooler stocked with everything from rum punch to fresh
coconut juice. I think of Blackwells routine here: A walk with
my dogs. A swim in the river. A big breakfast. A walk around
the grounds. A light lunch. A nap. Another walk with my dogs.
Another swim. A lot of emails and phone calls. Soup for dinner!
The 200-year-old guango tree that towers behind Blackwells
home is an arboreal superstar and the site for leisurely lunches
prepared by Mamma J, who has been cooking at Pantrepant
for nearly 20 years. Eggplant ratatouille, stuffed yellow yam,
garlic okra and her signature curried lamb are served under the
guangos long branches to a playlist of Blackwells reggae and
Ethiopian favourites. When I cant possibly eat any more, the
music stops and I flop into a chair on the veranda to watch the
light slowly disappear.
Its very otherworldly, says Blackwell. It feels like youre
in a hidden valley. There are only natural sounds: the wind,
parrots and the odd donkey bray. All of which is now the music
legends preferred soundtrack.
TO RENT The guesthouse at Pantrepant sleeps four and costs
from 2,430 per night full board. To book lunch on the estate and
overnight stays here (exclusive to guests of GoldenEye), email
reservations@islandoutpost.com or visit pantrepant.com

For a dose of sunshine music, go to cntraveller.com/playlists to listen


to our exclusive selection of Island Records hits.

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 29


SNAPSHOT

viewpoints
Architects are looking up and
out for a take on a trend that
bends the laws of physics
Top row, from left: the steel mountain-top
platform cantilevers nine metres over
a ridge on Mount Isidor in Austria; a
mirrored lookout point creates shifting
reections that help this structure blend
into its surroundings on Scotlands Loch
Voil; when visitors step inside the Wind
Tower on the Lincolnshire coast, the inner
chamber tilts forward so the nearby sea
becomes visible; made from Corten steel,
the Cubes Viewpoint overlooks the

PHOTOGRAPHS: PASO AALTO/PASOAALTO.COM; PAU ARDEVOL; IWAN BAAN; LAAC ARCHITECTS; ROSS CAMPBELL/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; MSA/GRUFF;
Mediterranean Sea in Cadaqus, Spain;
solid wooden beams are suspended from

KETIL JACOBSEN; ROBERT LEMERMEYER; JAMES MORLEY; JAKUB SKOKAN, MARTIN TUMA/BOYS PLAY NICE GENERAL DESIGNER TAROS NOVA
the ceiling like swings to provide seating
in a timber cabin, framing sand dunes
and windswept grass in Farsund, Norway.

Middle row, from left: in Reusel in the


Netherlands, there are panoramic vistas
from the highest box of a tower built for
climbing and abseiling; skewed porthole
windows and curved cedar panelling
create an undulating interior at the Grotto
sauna on Lake Huron, north west of
Toronto; at the top of the Skywalk slide
near Doln Morava, Czech Republic,
visitors can lie on the netting for vertigo-
inducing views of the forest below; the
timber core of the Wild Reindeer Centre
Pavilion reects the curves of the
surrounding Dovre mountains in Norway;
a strengthened-glass oor provides a view
down the valley as part of the Glacier
Skywalk in Canadas Jasper National Park.

Bottom row, from left: at Cubes Viewpoint


in Cadaqus, 400 buildings were removed
from a former holiday village to create
a series of observation points along the
coast; in Hermanice, north east of Prague,
Cucumber Tower houses a pair of
double-helix staircases; approximately
two million people walk the Pilgrim Route
in Mexico and visit the spiral Lookout
Point near Guadalajara; Xstrata Treetop
Walkway in the Royal Botanical Gardens,
Kew, south-west London, was designed
by Marks Bareld Architects, the team
behind the London Eye; Pyramid
Viewpoint is on the edge of a rocky
peninsula in Loch Lomond, Scotland.
TABITHA JOYCE

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 31


SHORT BREAK

32 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


THE GREAT
EUROPEAN ESCAPE
Freshly polishing its irst Michelin star and now teeming with cool hunters who see
it as the new Mediterranean design hotspot, Palma is looking strong, says Emma Love
PHOTOGRAPHS: MONTSE GARRIGA; OLIVER PILCHER
SHORT BREAK
alling for palma is inevitable. For the ridiculously tall

F palm trees that line the rejuvenated waterfront; the


characterful Old Town with Moorish architecture; and
for the funky yet low-fi vibe of the place. In Portixol,
the tanned houses with sun-faded, forest-green shutters span the
curving bay, and there are only three shops (plus a tobacconist),
all of which sell fishing kit. This barrio is bookended by Nassau
Beach Club, with sunbeds and raffia umbrellas on the sand,
and the harbour, where shiny Sunseekers are moored alongside
bobbing wooden boats. Borrowing a bicycle from Portixol hotel
the first proper design bolthole to open in the city 17 years
ago I take the path that runs along the beach, following the
shoreline past paella-eating diners at El Bungalow and behind
the thrumming Purobeach club, all the way to El Arenal.
Rollerbladers and teenage boys on scooters whizz by.
This is our Ocean Drive, says Mikael Landstrm, the Swedish
owner of Portixol hotel, when we meet up later in the bar. He
and his wife Johanna bought the place as a wreck when the area
was completely run down. Its not easy to find property right on
the sea here [since the coastal road was built in the 1960s], and
we thought it wouldnt be long before it started blooming. Its
taken some time, but things are now looking peachy in Portixol.
The couple renovated the hotel from top to bottom: there are 25
rooms, the best of which have balconies with views of the pool
and beyond. Theres a tiny spa, a boutique that sells the same
lovely pinstripe robes as in the bedrooms, and a restaurant under a
bamboo pergola that buzzes with locals at lunch. The seafood
octopus carpaccio, seabass ceviche, grilled scallops is delicious.
Top spots for equally fresh fish are harbour-side Ola del Mar,
where the most sought-after seats are out on the front terrace,

BRONZED ELBOWS JOSTLE


DAY AND NIGHT FOR DRINKS AT
THE TINY SEA-FACING BAR
or the traditional Sa Roqueta, where I sit at a linen-covered
table and order a steaming silver tureen of crayfish, langoustine
and mussel soup. The Prosecco bar is full of bronzed elbows
jostling day and night at the counter for smoothies, snacks and
glasses of sparkling wine (at weekends, book ahead for a spot
on the tiny, sea-facing balcony). But its Santa Catalina to the
west of the city thats garnering a reputation as the real foodie
quarter. Unlike the rest of Palma, the roads are arranged in a
grid formation: it was one of the first areas where new housing
was built when the population grew too large to be confined inside
the now-demolished city walls. Along those streets is restaurant
after restaurant after restaurant, unassuming places with wooden
tables, directors chairs and blackboards with chalked-up menus.
At Bunkers I perch on a stool under a white awning to tuck
into melt-in-the-mouth tuna tataki with fennel salad, calamarata
pasta with squid, and strawberry sorbet with basil, ginger and
grappa ice-cream, all made by chef-owner Luigi Valdambrini
in his open-kitchen. Next door is Dukes, which was set up by
two Mallorcan friends and named after Hawaiian surfer Duke
Paoa Kahanamoku. It feels like a smart beach shack with a
menu that mixes Japanese curry and burgers. At the end of

Clockwise, from top left: Portixol hotel; Frida Watson furniture shop;
Sant Francesc Hotel Singular; Viveca antiques shop; terrace at
Purobeach club; a room at Sant Francesc. Previous pages, from left:
vintage homeware at Viveca; sea views from Purobeach club

34 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


PHOTOGRAPHS: MONTSE GARRIGA; THOMAS VILHELM/GETTY IMAGES
SHORT BREAK
pedestrianised calle de la Fbrica, Patrn Lunares plays
up to its heritage as a former social club for retired fishermen:
lobster-cage lights and nautical flags hang from the ceiling
and a series of portraits on the walls include co-founder Javier
Bonets grandfather, a local angler. We wanted to make it a
homage to the people from the sea, so weve tried to keep the
same spirit, says Bonet. The area feels vaguely hippyish and
a touch studenty, and the architecture is a hotchpotch of colour.
There are a couple of charming vintage furniture shops worth
a look (both named after their owners Ariela Shneberg and
Frida Watson) and a great food market, the Mercat de Santa
Catalina, where you can munch on traditional tapas or sushi
after picking up waxed-paper parcels of jamn ibrico. One
artisan-pasta stand, La Sorrentina, offers yacht delivery, which
shows just how much the island has changed over the years.
The Old Town is still the beating heart of Palma and Hotel
Cort is in one of its loveliest squares; there is a huge gnarled
ancient tree in the middle where visitors stand around licking
dripping ice creams and watch just-married couples come out
of the town hall. From the cherry-red exterior, Hotel Cort looks
like a caf with people-watching tables outside that are full
from breakfast (flaky croissants, scrambled eggs with ham and
cheese) until last orders (the corvina ceviche is fantastic). Inside,
theres a Soho House-meets-the-Balearics vibe with blue-and-
white Mallorcan Ikat fabrics hanging on walls and thrown over
armchairs (similar textiles are sold around the corner at the
Rialto Living store), patterns of monochrome tiles on the floor
in the restaurant, and suites with sitting rooms that have little
libraries, vast velvet sofas and Juliet balconies overlooking the
Plaa de Cort. Nearby, Hotel Sant Francesc Singular, in an

THE MARKET STALLS NOW DELIVER brings in the money, and the island is small enough that people
hear about us by word of mouth.
TO YOUR YACHT, WHICH SHOWS In a similar way, word is spreading about the Mallorcan art
HOW MUCH PALMA HAS CHANGED scene. Its greatest legacy is the Pilar and Joan Mir Foundation
(the Catalan artist spent the last years of his life in Palma and
elegant 19th-century mansion, has a sophisticated and grown-up left his studio and unfinished works for visitors to see), which
feel, with its tonal taupe colour palette. It has what is surely a stays relevant with its residency programme. Sound artist Susan
contender for the biggest and best rooftop terrace in the city, Philipsz created a piece here before she won the Turner Prize
and a pool in the shadow of the beautiful looming basilica. in 2010. But its also attracting international collectors, including
Exploring the warren of narrow backstreets and cobbled Anita Zabludowicz, Manuela Wirth and Ursula Hauser, who
squares unearths shoebox-size delicatessens with ensaimadas come for annual events Art Palma Brunch, Palma Photo and
(a traditional coil-shaped cake) in boxes tied up with string, and Nit de lArt, where galleries stay open until midnight.
Mimbreria Vidal, a shop stuffed to the rafters with raffia baskets. Theres also Es Baluard Museum of Modern and Contemporary
I deliberate over a jumpsuit by Spanish designer Sita Murt and Art; installations at a medieval merchant-guild hall Sa Llotja; the
pretty seagull-print dresses from Barcelona-based Medwinds. Museu Fundacin Juan March, which has a permanent collection
The city is often compared to Barcelona, and its easy to see of works by 20th-century Spanish vanguard artists, and a
why, with its Gaud-like, Art Nouveau buildings, restaurants with handful of high-profile galleries such as La Caja Blanca, founded
PHOTOGRAPHS: SANDRA CHRISTIANSEN; EMILIO LOPEZ

modern riffs on tapas and a mini Rambla full of florist stands. by sibling duo Eva and Amir Shakouri-Torreadrado. The art
My favourite find is Viveca, an interiors shop in an alley of scene is growing here, which is quite curious, says Eva, who has
converted garages near Gerhardt Braun Gallery. The owners worked on projects with Irish artist Richard Mosse. It was quite
are 20-something sisters Carla and Camila Gell, who moved insular for many years, but now its opening up to the world. It
to Mallorca from Madrid four years ago. Inside are Kantha doesnt boast about what it has though; people just eventually
quilts folded over bamboo ladders, one-off artworks made by discover it. Which is exactly what can be said about Palma.
their father from discarded wood, and second-hand Danish
chairs. Its impossible to start something like this in Barcelona
GETTING HERE
or Madrid because its too pricey, says Camila. Its too British Airways (ba.com) ies from Heathrow to Palma nine times
expensive to even pay the rent, adds Carla. Here, tourism a week from 95 one way. Portixol hotel (portixol.com) has doubles
from about 170. Hotel Cort (hotelcort.com) has doubles from
Above right, a room at Hotel Cort. Opposite, clockwise from top left: about 130. Hotel Sant Francesc Singular (hotelsantfrancesc.com)
salmon sashimi at Bunkers; Markers installation by Carlos Marca at has doubles from about 225
Gerhardt Braun Gallery; retro furniture at Frida Watson; Hotel Cort

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 37


CAYMAN BRAC
LITTLE CAYMAN

GRAND CAYMAN

3 of lifes
little luxuries

ca ymanislands.co.uk

A picnic on your own private island?


Just one of our exclusive dining spots.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel news in Japan The South of France Oxfordshire + Jess Glynnes top spots
EDITED BY PETER BROWNE

EXCLUSIVE FIRST REVIEW


BEND THE RULES
A new Aman opens in rural
Japan. By Charles Spreckley
i was in ise-shima national park, a cultured
area in the Japanese countryside known for its
scenery and seafood, to visit the new Amanemu.
But instead of zenning out in my minimalist cabin,
instead of reclining in my private hot-spring
bath, I inadvertently became an interloper at
the worlds weirdest, all-woman indoor barbecue.
I had asked to eat somewhere locally and
was dispatched to Osatsu, a cosy sea-faring

Views towards Ago Bay from


one of the 12 villas at Amanemu

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 39


WHERE TO STAY

community a 40-minute drive away. Soaking in the mineral-rich water that off-menu at a ryokan will know the
The women who received me there are arrives on command with the twist answer: very sorry. Not possible.
known as ama elderly female divers of a tap, I reflected on the mornings Of course, at an Aman, things should
with well-trained lungs, who scavenge strange interlude. Fascinating, beautiful always be possible. So, like the newly
the seabed for crustaceans and shellfish, and a little bit crazy, the experience planted trees and shrubs that covered
including pearl oysters. When theyre seemed to me to be everything that the ground when I visited the hotel
not diving, the ama cook their catch makes Japan unique. when it opened, it will be interesting
clams, scallops, lobster and abalone for Amanemu is attempting to sandpaper to see what this transplanted sapling
passers-by in wooden huts along the off those grittier edges and become a grows into. The property is a collection

THE INTERIORS ARE A COLLECTION OF WOODEN SURFACES IN WARM HUES.


harbour. When dropped on a pile of hotel thats local in culture, but global of villas and pavilions scattered over
hot rocks, an abalone, still stuck to its in standard. To do that, it needs to a windswept hill, from where there are
cracked-open shell, appears to panic bridge the great divide in Japanese views of pearl-rich Ago Bay.
and contort, as if its trying to escape customer service, which is both the best Guests who have previously stayed
from inside itself. Gradually, however, in the world and the worst: the Japanese at Aman Tokyo will recognise architect
it gives in, and before long is dropped peoples genuine desire to please can Kerry Hills fingerprints. For this property,
on my plate beside a mug of cold beer. clash with their inherent respect for rules. he took inspiration from the grand
It looks like a premium steak and tastes Anyone whos ever asked for something proportions of Ise Shrine, an important
like calamari that took a day-long bath Shinto pilgrimage site nearby (it makes
in melted butter. Sublime. From left: a terrace of the restaurant in the main a fascinating day trip). The roofs are topped
The hot-spring bath part of my pavilion; one of the 24 minimalist suites; living with overlapping slate tiles, like waves
stay at Amanemu began later that and dining space in Sora villa; a private hot-spring across an ocean. There are 24 suites
afternoon when I returned to my room. bath with garden views in the Mori Suite the standard room category and four,

40 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


two-bedroom villas whose framework outdoor fireplace. If the Romans had number of courses fewer. Working
echo old country farmhouses known as reached Asia, their baths wouldve looked with a new team in a new place, Inaba
minka. From every room, sliding screens like this. And prudish Westerners, rejoice was able to serve one of the most
open to reveal picture windows, private swimwear is mandatory. memorable dinners I can remember,
terraces, and expansive views of the bay With a workout, a massage and several incorporating plenty of that famous
and gardens. The interiors are a collection hours of soaking, you could spend an Ise-Shima seafood: tender squid sashimi;
of wooden surfaces in various warm hues. entire day in the spa if you didnt need lobster lurking deep inside a rich egg
It feels like being hugged by a tree: a bit to eat. For food, hop on another buggy to porridge, and soft-shell clam served
hard, but basically still comforting. the main zone: a quadrangle around a in a whisper of tempura.

IT FEELS LIKE BEING HUGGED BY A TREE: A BIT HARD, BUT STILL COMFORTING
Five minutes by golf buggy is the spa, Japanese garden linking the front desk, So, how does Amanemu fit into the
with its treatment rooms, a gym, yoga library, bar and restaurant. rapidly expanding landscape of places
studio and watsu pool for water-based The latter is the hotels most beautiful to stay in Japan? If the grand ryokans
therapies. The centrepiece, however, is the space, with a ceiling that suggests of Kyoto are the challenging peaks,
onsen, which is elemental to any Japanese two hands coming together in prayer, Amanemu is closer to familiar ground.
hotel stay. It normally entails sitting reminiscent of the gesture the Japanese The view you get of this extraordinary
naked in a large rock bath with strangers, make before each meal. In a masterstroke, country will be quite different, but youll
slowly boiling yourself into a mild coma. Amanemu recruited chef Masanobu be enchanted nonetheless.
But Amanemus interpretation of the Inaba from the Conrad Tokyo to head
tradition is far more exciting, with terraces its kitchen. Inabas version of kaiseki AMANEMU (+44 800 2255
of tiled hot springs (diluted to keep the cooking formal dining that can feel 2626; AMAN.COM/RESORTS/
temperature manageable) interspersed fussy and never-ending is modern and AMANEMU). DOUBLES FROM
with day beds, lounging pavilions and an punchy. Portion sizes are larger; the ABOUT 685
WHERE TO STAY

BED-HOPPING WITH JESS GLYNNE


The Grammy Award-winning singer, who plays Glastonbury this summer, talks to Francesca Babb

SOHO BEACH HOUSE MIAMI


I went on a little holiday to Miami after
Christmas with a friend. It was my rst time in
the city and I loved staying here: it has amazing
restaurants, right on the beach. I dont think
you can do better. I also liked the way theyd
done it up: not too modern and with a very
cool vibe. Of course, its part of the Soho
House group, so theyve had some practice.
sohobeachhouse.com. Doubles from about
200 for members; 225 for non-members

SUNSET MARQUIS
LOS ANGELES
I was chatting to the music producer
I FORGOT MY BAG Skrillex and he told me I had to try
this hotel next time I was in LA. He
ON A TRIP TO LA, was right. All the villas are cool, but,
BUT THE ACE HOTEL really, the one to book is the Grand
MADE IT ALL BETTER Deluxe, which has a huge piano in it.
sunsetmarquis.com. Doubles from
about 240

PAVILLON DE LA REINE PARIS


Last year was really busy and I hadnt
seen my mum, dad and sister for ages,
so I surprised them with a weekend in
Paris. We stayed at this hotel, which was
gorgeous. I never used to like France
wed had a bad trip there when I was
younger but now I love it. The shopping
is brilliant: I come back with new clothes
every time I visit. pavillon-de-la-reine.
com. Doubles from about 260

THE PULLMAN JAKARTA


I got completely mobbed when I arrived
in Jakarta, and we had to have a police
THE ACE HOTEL LOS ANGELES
escort to the hotel. I absolutely loved
I had a bit of a disaster on the way to LA
everything about this place. The food was
recently. I got to the airport and realised
amazing and I had an incredible massage
Id forgotten one of my bags, which had all
in my room, which I was sharing with a
PHOTOGRAPH: SIMON EMMETT

my outts for the video we were shooting


friend. I thought theyd bring up massage
out there. Who does that? I was gutted,
tables, but we ended up lying on the
but the Ace made everything better. The
double bed side by side and these women
loveliest people work there, it serves terric
had to climb over us. It was still great
cocktails and has perfect pools. The
though! pullmanjakartaindonesia.com.
breakfasts in particular are wicked you
Doubles from about 120
have to try them even if you dont stay.
Jess Glynnes debut album I Cry When acehotel.com. Doubles from about 160
I Laugh is out now

42 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


SOUTHAMPTON LAKE TEGERNSEE SYLT PALM BEACH MUNICH MARBELL A
finejewelry @ tamaracomolli.com
SMALL BUT STYLISH NEW HOTELS IN

THE SOUTH OF FRANCE


MODERN BEAUTY
150
LE MAS DE LA TANNERIE, GORDES
Behind the honey-coloured stone walls of this splendid ve-room guesthouse everything is unexpectedly contemporary. Owners
Hanne Benoist, a Danish fashion designer, and her husband Gilles have created a Scandi space from scratch, with sober lines and
loft-like volumes. Their sunny, rectangular home and adjacent two-storey chambres dhtes were designed by the couples architect
daughter, Amandine Dalby. Rooms are colour-coded red, green, blue, black or monochrome and some have private balconies,
from which there are views of the surrounding olive grove and distant Alpilles peaks. All have soft linens and cashmere blankets,
hand-painted tables and reupholstered ea-market nds. In the smart bathrooms there are stand-alone tubs and polished-concrete
sinks. Breakfasts of organic breads, cereals and fruit are served in the big kitchen or on the terrace. In its former life, the pool house was
a tannery, and there are curious-looking bories 16th-century, beehive-shaped structures in the grounds. For more history, Abbaye
Notre-Dame-de-Snanque monastery is a short drive away. lemasdelatannerie.com. Doubles from about 125 LANIE GOODMAN

PHOTOGRAPH: BRUNO SUET


WHERE TO STAY

BRIGHT SPARK
150
MAISON JALON, PUYRICARD
The tiny village of Puyricard lies less than 10km north of cosmopolitan Aix-en-Provence. It still looks much as it did centuries ago, with twisty lanes
shaded by umbrella pines and old-timers playing cards in the caf, looking for all the world like theyve stepped out of a Czanne painting. Its here
that Laetitia and Dimitri Jalon, former owners of an interior-design shop in Marrakech, decided to build their home a sleek, low-slung, modern
rectangle in grey concrete, hidden away at the end of a narrow bumpy road and then open it up to guests. Upstairs, there are four cheerful bedrooms,
each with a capacious south-facing terrace. But the real charm lies in the Wes Anderson lm-set vibe and jumble of colours: retro rose, pistachio,
tangerine orange, buttercup yellow and turquoise. The couples choice of vintage wallpaper, naive artworks and hand-woven blankets from Thailand
and Mexico, ofset by simple mid-century-modern furniture, works beautifully. There are no mini-bars, but guests are free to forage in the pink
Fifties-style fridge at the end of the corridor, or make a cup of tea in the sunny kitchen where hearty breakfasts of chunky country bread slathered
in thick lavender honey and Laetitias homemade organic yogurt are served. Laze by the pool or in a hammock, then venture out to nearby Chteau
La Coste, a vineyard, shop and Tadao Ando-designed art centre with walking trails. maisonjalon.com. Doubles from about 75 LG

HISTORY MASTER
COMMANDERIE DE PEYRASSOL,
FLASSANS-SUR-ISSOLE
Hidden away in the countryside roughly an hours drive from 150
Nice, this 950-acre estate has been a hotspot on a sacred
pilgrimage trail since the 13th century, when the Knights Templar
arrived, built a chapel and called it home. Then along came the Knights
of Malta, followed by vintners and silkworm breeders, and more recently
the Brussels-based entrepreneur and art lover Philippe Austruy and
his gallery-owner wife Valrie Bach. In parts, this place is still a wild
sprawl of forests and olive groves, but its vineyard also produces seriously
good wines. They have also created a remarkable contemporary-
sculpture park and gallery, along with the 10 new guest rooms. The
rustic stone manor has ve country-style bedrooms with a variety of
antiques, exposed-beam ceilings and terracotta-tiled oors. Theres also
a lovely ve-bedroom hunting lodge out in the woods, although the
profusion of bear-skin rugs and mounted mouon-sheep heads may
not appeal to the tender-hearted. Supper is at the table dhte, where
chef Guillaume Delaune creates superb dishes such as braised lamb
with olives, Provenal beef stew, and nougat ice cream with honey, all
washed down with a glass of the domaines best-selling fruity ros.
peyrassol.com. Doubles from about 105 LG

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 45


WHERE TO STAY

DISCREET DIGS
HOTEL DE TOURREL, SAINT-REMY-DE-PROVENCE
Walking past the creamy faade of this gorgeously restored 17th-century htel particulier the former home of the illustrious de Tourrel dAlmeran family
youd never guess there was a super-stylish place to stay behind the unmarked walnut door. Its no accident: German owners Ralph Huesgen and architect
Margot Staengle like to keep things low-prole for their smart, international guests. There are seven bedrooms of varying sizes, each a mix of ornate Renaissance
mouldings, furniture from the 1920s and 1930s, hand-sewn cotton sheets, exposed stone walls and 10-foot-high ceilings. Fans of the brilliant Irish designer
Eileen Gray will swoon at the sight of sunlit Suite Two, packed with her creations: a green velvet Bibendum chair, a geometric patterned rug and a black-and-
white Lota sofa. After cocktails and tapas by the pool on the rooftop terrace, slip downstairs to the restaurant for rened Provenal dishes such as steamed,
rosemary-infused monksh or slow-cooked beef with polenta. The hotels adjacent wine shop and tasting room stocks more than 350 bottles, and a few
steps away is the Muse des Alpilles, with its odd yet beguiling collection of domestic and agricultural artefacts. detourrel.com. Doubles from about 195 LG

ARTY PARTY
CASTEL PIERRE LISSE, HYERES
Almost a century ago when the novelist Edith Wharton was in
the process of renovating her medieval Chteau Sainte-Claire 150
in palm-lined Hyres, she decamped to this pretty, 19th-century
mansion, which she used as a guest house for her literary pals.
The impressive mini-castle was recently restored and opened as an
unpretentious but imaginative ve-bedroom B&B. Climb upstairs to the
sitting room and step out onto the sprawling terrace to take in views
to the islands of Porquerolles and Port-Cros, bathed in a silvery haze.
Owner Nicolas Broche, a passionate art and furniture collector, has
lled every nook and cranny with a mix of vintage nds and paintings,
including works by di Rosa, Boiron and Jasper Johns, and pieces by
Eames, Le Corbusier, Robin Day and Castiglioni. Rooms are named
after precious stones and painted in a warm yellow ochre, all with
PHOTOGRAPH: BRUNO SUET

tall windows and sea views. A simple continental breakfast is served


downstairs in the drawing room, lled with art books and interior-design
magazines, or outside in a sunny corner of the terrace, where in the
evening guests inevitably converge for a glass of chilled ros. Set aside
some time to visit modernist Villa Noailles, where patrons Charles
and Marie-Laure de Noailles once entertained avant-garde artists in
lavish style. castel-pierre-lisse.com. Doubles from about 90 LG

46 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


WHERE TO STAY
lovely views down Church Street. Of these,
Two is the smallest and Three is hand-
painted in blue flower-stars by artist Fifi
McAlpine. Four more bedrooms are being
added in a former barn behind the pub,
all of which will be available individually or
take the whole lot with a group of friends.

EAT The Bull is a haven of fulsome


flavours. Locally sourced ingredients are
key for chef Dominic Hewitt, formerly of
Thomass at the Burberry shop in London.
His menu includes fresh game and seasonal
vegetables (January-king cabbage was a
side dish in March). Classics are given
a clever twist: burgers enhanced with a
hint of Korean barbecue sauce; chips
served with snail butter. There are some
wonderfully piquant combinations too,
such as red gurnard with verbena harissa.
Breakfast features Arlington White eggs
and Ue coffee roasted in nearby Witney.

WHO COMES HERE? Smart London


couples will love this inn, but theyre not
the only ones: children are very welcome,
and its fine to bring along the dog too.

WE LIKE The modern British art (abstract


landscapes) from the Crane Kalman
Gallery on Brompton Road in London;
arrange to buy one as you settle the bill.

WE DONT LIKE Pub noise can intrude


into the bedrooms, but its good natured
rather than rowdy.

THE WEEKENDER CONTACT +44 1608 810689; bullinn-


charlbury.com. Doubles from 100
THE BULL INN CHARLBURY, OXFORDSHIRE HARRIET OBRIEN

WHY STAY? For a happy combination BEHIND THE SCENES This is the
of relaxed style and good, honest food. first joint venture from husband and wife
And for the sense of revival this newly Charlie and Willow Crossley. Hes a
revamped pub is bringing to a little-visited former owner of the Hollywood Arms
but prodigiously pretty Cotswold town. in Chelsea; shes a floral artist by way
of fashion college and Tatler magazine.
WHY NOW? For early-summer walks Willow makes the striking flower creations
straight from the doorstep. Stride out on a and dreams up the interiors; Charlie runs
five-mile circuit taking in Shorthampton the show and is front of house. Inspired,
PHOTOGRAPHS: JON HARPER; JAMES McNAUGHT

church and its medieval wall paintings, in part, by the success of nearby Soho
then chill out on the Bulls terrace. Farmhouse, which is bringing a new crowd
to the Cotswolds, the Crossleys have
WHAT IS IT? A 16th-century inn that plans to renovate other pubs in the area.
buzzes with locals on most evenings (come OUT AND ABOUT
after 8pm on a Tuesday and youll find the SLEEP The four bedrooms above the The Daylesford mothership deli, above, and
village bridge club in situ). On one side of bar and restaurant are carefully crafted spa are a 20-minute drive away, as is lovely
Swinbrook, where the Mitford sisters lived.
the cosy-chic space theres informal dining with hessian-covered floors and vintage,
Hop over in the other direction to Blenheim
in the bar and snoozy armchairs around painted wood furniture. Rooms One and
Palace for this years Capability Brown
an exposed-stone fireplace; on the other, a Four are in cocooning shades of deep blue tercentenary commemorations. Don your
darker, more formal restaurant uplifted by and green; sunny rooms Two and Three wellies for a walk on the Oxfordshire Way.
Turkish rugs and kilim-patterned cushions. are done out in pale colours and have

48 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


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STYLE FILE
Jewellery Beauty Mens Hotel On The Scene

TAKE IT AWAY
The great conundrum at the centre of the fashion project is always how to juggle the
need for both continuity and change. How to stay true to your heritage when you
are compelled by the diktats of the catwalk caravan to completely reinvent yourself
every six months. The answer, increasingly, is intervention. Take Louis Vuitton luggage.
Instantly recognisable, its magic monogram has forever been opulences unoicial
emblem. Dispensing with it would be unthinkable. But intervening isnt, and such is
Vuittons condence and clout it regularly invites fashion hotshots to keep its icon
up-to-date, imbued afresh with the spirit of their times. And thats exactly what
creative director Marc Jacobs did in 2001 when he commissioned Stephen Sprouse
to scrawl graiti on suitcases. It felt sacrilegious but also of-the-moment: fashion
nally succumbing to the melding of culture, high and low. The house achieved
similar geistiness in 2008, when artist Takashi Murakami made the famous print go
incognito behind a camo. Then in 2014, six design stars, including architect
Frank Gehry and Karl Lagerfeld, the kingpin at rivals Chanel and Fendi, re-imagined the
LV logo. And now Vuittons done it again with its Tropical Journey capsule. All palm
prints and red confetti, this is light-hearted luggage, sun-kissed and celebratory.
Tropical Journey Monogram Jungle Keepall 50, 1,450; Pegase Leg 55, 2,250,
both Louis Vuitton (louisvuitton.co.uk). Photographed by Andrew Yee at
LHorizon Resort & Spa (lhorizonpalmsprings.com)

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 51


STYLE FILE
EDITED BY FIONA JOSEPH

WE PRESENT TO YOU

PIPPA HOLT
The Dublin-based, Melbourne-born stylist turned designer is a pro
at staying cool in the sun. Here she shares her summer hits

Who has inuenced your style?


My grandmother, Dame Zara Bate. She
adored the tropics. She was married to
Australian prime minister Harold Holt in the
1960s and had a beach house next to the
rainforest near the Great Barrier Reef. She
would wear oral dresses with a hibiscus
behind her ear and teach me about the shells
we collected together along the shore.

Why did you launch your own label?


Ive always enjoyed holiday dressing. My family
and I lived in Houston, Texas, for a year and I
was astounded by the heat there. Even though
Im Australian Id never experienced anything
like it. My clothes from Dublin just didnt cut
it. I had wanted to start a holiday-wear brand
for some time, and because Houston is so
close to Mexico I decided to go of in search
of inspiration. Three years later, I now have
a collection based on this experience. The
kaftans are hand-woven in a remote village
and each one takes a month to make.

What brands are in your suitcase?


Joanna Ortiz is a new designer who captures Clockwise from far left: a Pippa Holt kaftan shot
the sense of summer nights perfectly. Also Im at LHorizon Hotel, Palm Springs; Pippa with
obsessed with the Wynona black wetsuit from her children at Borgo Egnazia, Puglia; cacti on
Paros, Greece; Pippa in Tulum; Halcyon Hotel,
Australia; Pippas beach kit. Opposite, from top:
Moroccan slippers; Pippa in Tangier; local flora

Abysse; it has fringing along the arms and is short walk from the wonderful Convento
the coolest thing. It makes me want to go di Santa Maria di Costantinopoli hotel and
boogie boarding again, something I did a lot is a treasure trove of ethnic and vintage nds
when I was younger. And Ive got my eye on that owner Deborah Nolan has collected
an ARossGirl X Adriana Santiago hat, made in from all over the world. Coqui Coqui in Tulum
Guatemala. In my opinion, Australian brands sells the best orange-blossom perfume and
do the best swimwear. My children wear Seed the nicest-smelling insect repellent. Be warned:
Heritage and Country Road, and when I go dont shop at Luisa Beach in Mykonos after
back home I stock up on Zimmermann, a long lunch dancing on the tables at next-
Ephemera and Matteau. This season Im door Nammos restaurant (its all too tempting!).
coveting Joseph Altuzarras green tie-dye dress, The store has a fun selection of designer
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDREW YEE

Aurlie Bidermanns colourful cowrie-shell pieces, including Maison Michel sun hats and
necklaces, and Chlos striped sandals and K Jacques sandals. And the excellent boutique
diaphanous gowns. Id also love a Tory Sport at Trasierra hotel in Andaluca is lled with
tracksuit to wear on the plane when travelling local baskets and bedspreads.
to Mexico for production meetings.
Where are your favourite markets?
The best boutiques youve found? Tangiers medina is particularly good for slippers,
Tulsi is hidden down an alley in the small and on Saturdays the ea market next to the
town of Marittima in southern Puglia. Its a bullring in Marbella has pretty espadrilles. There

52 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


is a tropical-Aussie atmosphere at Port SHOP WATCH
Douglas market and in Istanbul Arasta Bazaar
IS THIS THE SLEEKEST SURF
is great because its like a condensed Grand
Bazaar. I stock up on antique Afghani dresses
STORE IN THE WORLD?
in the shop at number 163, gallery 44.

Most memorable summers?


The ones I spent as a child at our holiday
home in Portsea, Victoria. It was on the edge
of a clif, above a wonderful beach called
Fishermans, and we had a huge lawn edged
by moonah trees where we used to play
cricket. Although I now live in Europe with
my three children, we still spend every
January in Portsea.

Low key or limelight?


I prefer low key but recently I discovered lunch
at aforementioned Nammos, Mykonos its
Sydneysider Hayden Cox didnt want to create another
fabulous and my favourite scene at the
hippie surf shop with the usual fridge full of beers and
moment. I also recommend La Figuire tattoo-parlour-meets-Point Break vibe. Instead, he
Hotel in St Tropez and Beach House Hotel in simply wiped the slate clean. The result is this slick
Antiparos, which are not as hip but close space in the citys Mona Vale neighbourhood where
enough to dip into the party if you want to. customers can design their own surboards by using the
latest touch-screen software on digital tablets and
The best beach hotels? virtual-reality goggles. All the boards are built with Coxs
De.light Hotel in Mykonos is a lovely place FutureFlex technology to maximise speed and minimise
to see the more relaxed side of the island. weight for rapid response in the water. Surf-wear
Seahaven in Noosa on the Queensland coast labels in store, including Saturdays NYC, Bassike, Huf
and Vissla, are also in keeping with his graphic style.
is brilliant for children. Elsewhere in
Cox is no stranger to fashion hook-ups, after all, having
Australia, I really like Halcyon Hotel on
displayed his boards in Alexander Wangs New York
Cabarita Beach in New South Wales. agship. Know nothing about riding the waves?
Just ask for the best-selling, award-winning Hypto
Pippa Holt kaftans are available from Krypto model. SARAH ILSTON haydenshapes.com
net-a-porter.com, matchesfashion.com and at
Alex Eagle boutique in Chelsea, London

TREND TRACKER: BIKINIS


Always start with black swimwear on the first day of your holiday and white on the last to
show off your tan but beat block-colour boredom in between with these standout prints

From left: Bird of Paradise bikini, 200, Fendi (matchesfashion.com). Reversible print bikini, 255, Etro (net-a-porter.com). Tropical Apulia top, 68;
bottoms, 71, both Sapia Kang (myluxboutique.co.uk). Belize-print top, 90; Zuma bottoms, 70, both Mikoh (net-a-porter.com). Kaleidoscope
triangle top, 61; bottoms, 60, both Clover Canyon (shopbop.com). Spectra bandeau top, 90; bottoms, 85, both Asceno (asceno.com)
STYLE FILE

How do you relax on holiday?


Im a diver and my favourite thing is exploring
the underwater world. I honeymooned on
North Island, Seychelles, which was completely
amazing. And I have fond memories of
Nassau in the Bahamas I was there lming
After the Sunset with Pierce Brosnan. It was
paradise because I had the chance
to go on at least ve or six
dives a week. If Im after some
serious time out, I get a
four-handed massage.

Do you sunbathe?
Yes, but I always wear good
sunscreen; if I dont, my skin
burns and becomes very dry. I use my
brands Nuance Oil-Free Sheer Liquid Veil
SPF50 on my face because it doesnt leave
white streaks and isnt too greasy. For the
body, I apply a Sisley SPF30 sun cream.

How do you get ready before a trip?


I like to stay t but its diicult sometimes due
to my schedule, so I try to watch my diet before
I go away. Ill either eat fewer carbs or go on a
juice fast. Having just vegetable broth or soup
for dinner can really make a diference too.

TRAVELS WITH MY WASHBAG

SALMA HAYEK
The Mexican actress who once directed a music video for Prince reveals her secrets to Tabitha Joyce

What is your biggest indulgence? What make-up do you What colour do you paint
One thing Ive learned is to never go keep in your hand luggage? your nails?
on vacation without a good cook. If Im going for a natural look, I stick to natural shades for my
I enjoy drinking nice wine and I also I use Guccis Opulent Volume hands so that if they chip it doesnt
love kombucha. My all-time favourite Mascara in Iconic Black. For show, but my toes are always red.
restaurant is Pujol the chef Enrique something more dramatic, I wear I use chemical-free polishes so my
Olvera makes the best food in Mexico Cliniques High-Impact Extreme- daughter can also wear them.
City. If youre ever in town you must go. Volume Mascara. I always pack
a lipstick by Charlotte Tilbury or How do you look after
Which fragrance do you NARS. And if Im feeling pufy your skin on a ight?
take away with you? after a long ight, a contour I keep my face as clean and
Ive been wearing Bottega blush is great for helping my moisturised as possible. Nuance
PHOTOGRAPH: JOHN HUBA/ART + COMMERCE

Venetas eau de parfum for face look thinner. AM/PM Anti-Aging Super Cream makes
years. Its fresh, but also has a big diference to my skin when
a hint of sensuality. Every What is your number-one travelling. Ill also pack a Sisley
now and again I experiment beauty-travel advice? face mask. And hibiscus tea helps
with other perfumes, such Coconut water. It keeps you hydrated and with water retention.
as Narciso Rodriguez For Her. is full of potassium. And take some protein
Or Ill create my own scent shakes; if you nd youre eating too much, Salma Hayek stars in Tale of Tales,
by mixing essential oils. you can substitute a meal with one. which is in cinemas on 17 June

From top: Oil-Free Sheer Liquid Veil SPF50, about 7, Nuance Salma Hayek (cvs.com). Milky Body Mist SPF30, 83, Sisley (sisley-paris.co.uk). Bottega Veneta eau
de parfum, 68, Bottega Veneta (harrods.com). Opulent Volume Mascara, 27, Gucci (gucci.com). Matte Revolution Lipstick in Love Liberty, 23, Charlotte Tilbury
(charlottetilbury.com). Black-Rose Cream Mask, 95.50, Sisley (as before). AM/PM Anti-Aging Super Cream, about 14, Nuance Salma Hayek (as before)

54 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


H O T E L N O.

E X A C T LY COT TO N H O USE H OTEL


B A R C E L O NA

LIKE
NOTHI NG
ELSE
Cotton linens, cotton curtains, cotton artwork
and even a seven-story spiral staircase made
to evoke the spinning of cotton. From the mind
of Lzaro Rosa-Violn, the Cotton House Hotel
is a one of a kind experience you can only find
in the Autograph Collection. Gracias, Lzaro!

Watch this story and explore our collection


of independent hotels at autographhotels.com

L Z A R O R O S A -V I O L N I N T E R IOR DE S IG N E R
STYLE FILE

Diva sautoir necklace


in yellow gold with
malachite, lapis lazuli
and carnelian, 8,350,
Bulgari (bulgari.com)

Earrings in yellow gold,


with white and natural
canary diamonds,
4,390, from the Izel
collection by Lito
(lito-jewelry.com)

Necklace in blackened
white gold with black
diamonds, 1,975, from
Mosaic ring in yellow
the Izel collection by
gold, onyx and
Lito (as before)
mother-of-pearl, 1,507,
Kamushki (kamushki-
jewellery.com).

Mosaico earrings in white gold and


FLOOR TO THE FORE diamonds, POA, Giampiero Bodino
(giampierobodino.com)

Shape-shifting mosaics take on a new form in the most


zany zigzaggy designs. By Jessica Diamond
Rose des Vents bracelet in white The art of laying mosaics and the process of setting jewellery share many similarities.
gold with diamonds, POA, Both rely on the precision cutting of stones, and then their careful arrangement into
Dior Joaillerie (dior.com) patterns that can withstand upclose inspection as well as admiration from afar.
Jewellery even borrows from the language of mosaics; to pav is to place tiny gems
as at and as close together as the setter dares, just like paving requires the same
techniques, albeit on a larger scale, in cobbles or bricks. Its no surprise, then, that
designers are drawn to this discipline as a source of inspiration. Sisters Mariam and
Dania Sawedeg of the label Kamushki have named their second collection after the
ancient city of Cyrene in their native Libya. Many of our summers were spent visiting the
ruins and ambling over the mosaic oors, says Dania. The Agora of Cyrene proved
particularly fruitful, with its intricate detailing and geometric patterns, the perfect surface
to translate into onyx and mother-of-pearl. Milan-based jeweller Giampiero
Bodino takes similar ideas from the Byzantine period. His Mosaico cuf
and earrings mimic the repetitive motifs favoured by that civilisation
PHOTOGRAPH: GAP INTERIOR IMAGES

millennia ago, and are today rendered as one-of creations in white


diamonds. Bulgari, the authority on morphing ancient graphics
into modern ones, has devised its entire Diva collection around
Ring in yellow gold the fan-shaped oor pattern from the Baths of Caracalla in Rome.
with diamonds, And the Rose des Vents pieces by Dior lift the wind rose symbol Ring in yellow
tsavorites, rubies from the tiled pool of Monsieur Diors childhood home in Normandy. gold, 1,285,
and sapphires, Meanwhile, Greek newcomer Litos Izel collection marries the age-old from the Izel
2,000, from the geometry of laying triangles in varying compositions with something collection
Izel collection by playful and modern a precious puzzle, resolutely antiquated by Lito
Lito (as before) in ideology yet fresh and contemporary in execution. (as before)

56 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


IN ANTIGUA, WE BELIEVE
LOVE IS WRITTEN IN THE STARS

HAVING DINED BY CANDLELIGHT IN ONE OF ANTIGUAS ELEGANT


RESTAURANTS, TAKE YOUR PARTNER BY THE HAND AND STROLL
DOWN TO THE BEACH. AS NIGHT DESCENDS, CAST YOUR GAZE
UP INTO THE NIGHT SKY AND MARVEL AT THE STARS 
 
BRIGHTLY. ABOVE.

AND YOULL BEGIN TO SEE WHY SO MANY LOVERS LOVE


ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA.

FIND OUR SPECIAL OFFERS AT


VisitAntiguaBarbuda.com

WELCOME TO OUR ISLAND LIFE


STYLE FILE

FOR GLAMPING
Ive lost count of the
number of times Ive rocked
up to my camper van or
navigated my way to the
main stage at a festival and
my bullet-proof blow-dry
has collapsed. This was
before I made friends with
Moroccanoil Dry Shampoo.
Giving at hair oomph, it
absorbs excess oil and has a
UV lter (in case youre
heading to Burning Man
rather than Glastonbury
this year). Theres a spray
for blondes that has a
FOR HOT ZONES purple tinge to tone down
brassiness, and one for
My sister-in-law Jennifer darker shades with an
has glorious corkscrew curls. ultra-ne, rice-bran powder
But she lives in fear of those that doesnt leave behind
sweltering seaside cities Rio, that telltale chalky residue.
Sydney, Miami, Dubai where 14.85; moroccanoil.co.uk
you have to hop from beach
to bar and not look like youve
been dragged through a hedge
backwards. So Ive lent her my
Krastase Discipline Curl
Ideal Cleansing Conditioner,
a clever formula that cleans
big-smoke pollution and
smooths hair in one shot. Ive
asked for the bottle back, but
shes not returning my calls.
29; kerastase.co.uk

IF YOU ONLY PACK 4 THINGS

for hair-raising adventures


Olivia Falcon reins in the mane with these hard-working picks PHOTOGRAPH: THANASSIS KRIKIS/FOLIO-ID.COM

FOR HAND LUGGAGE


FOR TOP-DOWN ROAD TRIPS
Having nally found a way to
micro-manage the two rather I just love the name of this product, John Frieda Frizz
unfortunate cowlicks on either side of Ease 10-Day Tamer. It sounds like it should be sprayed
my head, I now never leave home on feisty family members or errant friends. Apply it to
without chucking the GHD Atlantic hair before a shower, then wash as normal. It contains a
Jade Styler into my carry-on holdall. game-changing smoothing agent that works to cushion
It strategically heats hair to a level every strand and quash frizz think of it as a straightjacket
temperature so there is no fear for crazy hair that wont behave. The sleek efect lasts
of frying. I use it for quick xes, to up to ve washes, and its just as good if you air-dry
straighten out kinks, create icks naturally (rather than blow-dry), so you can leap into the
or, my personal favourite, Veronica convertible Corvette without a Grace Kelly headscarf
Lake waves. 130; ghdhair.com and focus on the map instead. 12.99; boots.com

58 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


The logical choice in
sun protection
* Providing you follow the instructions.

p20.co.uk

Scandinavians are logical people, so its no surprise they do


sunscreen in their own logical way. P20 takes the worry and
fuss out of long lasting sun protection. Apply the transparent,
non-greasy spray or lotion in the morning and it remains
effective even after frequent swimming and provides 10 hours
sun protection from just one application.*
Choose from SPF 15, 20, 30 or 50+.
Once a day sunscreen from Scandinavia.
P20, the official sun protection supplier to British Triathlon.
Distributed in the UK by Godrej Consumer Products (UK) Ltd.

Order by 8pm and collect for free from


12pm tomorrow at a store near you.
Please see boots.com/ordertodaycollecttomorrow for full terms and conditions about the Order & Collect Service. Mon- Sat. Geographical exclusions apply. Available at most Boots stores. Subject to availability.
STYLE FILE
EDITED BY DAVID ANNAND

THE MAN: NORMAN HOWE


All gnarly stories and dirty laughs, the
top dog at adventure-travel company
MAN ON a MISSION
Buttereld & Robinson is the man you want
by your side on a wilderness expedition

W
e cant see them, but we know theyre there, because another boats sonar has
THE MISSION picked them up. So were parked up two miles in front of them, waiting. Its only
A six-man sea-kayaking trip in the waters now Im in my kayak on the water that I get a true sense of how light my vessel is;
of western Canada on the lookout for orca: how vulnerable this makes me. The sensation is intense. Ahead, the water is undisturbed, but
six days, one very stubborn salmon and a beneath the surface there are killer whales, 25 of them. And coming our way. Were in the
cook-of on a hardcore eco-commune Johnstone Strait, the body of water that separates Vancouver Island from mainland Canada.
Its a place of incredible beauty anked by giant cedar forests and jords. Around us on the
small islands of the archipelago, abandoned villages are being reclaimed by the forest, and
MILES TRAVELLED LAST YEAR the landscape is dotted with ancient burial grounds that give the place a haunted, spiritual
75,000 quality. Instead of camping on one of the islands, weve opted to stay on a mothership, a 55ft
converted salmon trawler with a rooftop deck, a nice balance of rusticity and luxury, and just
WEIRDEST PLACE YOUVE BEEN the place to cook the sh we catch during the day. The salmon are big, eight pounds-plus, and
Kresty Prison, St Petersburg getting up close when youre in your tiny kayak and theyre ipping between your legs, the instinct that takes
with the Russian penal system seemed

PHOTOGRAPHS: JONATHAN GLYNN-SMITH; JOHN HYDE/DESIGN PICS/CORBIS;


AS THE ENORMOUS BEASTS SWIM ABOUT US,

JONATHAN KINGSTON/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE; JEREMY KORESKI


an amusing idea until I was walking through
the yard lled with maosi and white FEEDING AND PLAYING, THE ADRENALIN
supremacists with shivs in their pockets... SURGES TO ALMOST HEART-ATTACK LEVELS
over is primal: I seize my oar and whack them over the head. At night, the bioluminescence
MUST PACK in the water is powerful. As the boat moves, a surge of electric-blue is created at the prow,
Rudy Project ImpactX photochromic which trails behind the ship, attracting dolphins who surf in the shimmering wake. We sit on
sunglasses. They adjust to almost any light deck watching, eating what the Japanese call uni, which sounds nicer than it is: were consuming
the sex gonads of sea urchins. This rich marine life has attracted the largest concentration
conditions in an instant. And a Leatherman
of orca in the world, a mix of the calm resident pods and more aggressive migratory ones, the
Charge TTI titanium multi-tool perfect rogue killer whales that will hunt other orca and dolphins. Ahead, I see plumes of spray on
for extracting sh hooks and cutting lines. the horizon. Then big, black dorsal ns slicing through the surf. Some are the size of a sail
from a small boat. There are mountains on either side, but Im a long way from land. The
rational part of my brain is telling me this is a local pod and attacks are rare, but my reptilian
id is registering alarm. And suddenly they are upon us. The adults are focused on feeding,
but the youngsters are playful and could knock you over accidentally. As they swim about us,
adrenalin pumps to almost heart-attack levels; the rush when they leave is palpable, too. The
afterglow is a bit like the end of a rollercoaster ride: body and mind are exhausted, yet the
heart surges with desire for another encounter. But these leviathans are already gliding away
in regal silence, natures perfect balance of beauty and menace. buttereld.com
Clockwise from left:
sweater, 355, Givenchy
(matchesfashion.com).
Vest, 250, Canada
Goose (canada-goose.
com). Americas Cup
holdall, from 1,150,
Louis Vuitton
(louisvuitton.com).
Trainers, 370, Gucci
(harrods.com). Oracle II
watch, 4,395, Bremont
(bremont.com). Swim
shorts, 180, Vilebrequin
(vilebrequin.com).
Americas Cup sunglasses,
400, Louis Vuitton
(as before)

A POSTCARD FROM

The Gulf of Oman


BY DAVID ANNAND

Sailings never going to be the peoples sport. Particularly the Americas Cup World Series brand of
super-tech, ying-through-the-air mega-sailing. If anything, its more like F1 on water, with its
international calendar and turbo-glamour. Well, it can be, anyway. Im sitting in a RIB just of the coast
of Muscat, where gossamer-light wind means theres all kinds of glamour, but little turbo. Ahead, six
AC45 yachts are racing like a gorgeously slow-moving migration of giant ightless sea butteries.
I have no idea who is winning, or even the coordinates of the course, but the whole thing is majestically
compelling. And then someone explains: the route, the rules, the tactics, the subplots and intense
rivalries. Of course, its more thrilling in high winds, they tell me, when the vessels rocket at 30 knots,
their two hulls both three feet above the water, just hydrofoils touching the surface, like a boat on
tiptoes. But light-wind racing is its own spectacle; chess on water, all feints and blufs and targeted
manoeuvres. And, nally, we Brits have, at the helm of our Land Rover BAR boat, a man to whom this
is second nature, a Kasparov of the seas: Olympic legend Ben Ainslie. His task is onerous, of course:
since the Royal Yacht Squadron inaugurated the tournament in 1851, weve been on a 165-year losing
streak. But if anyone can right this in the Louis Vuitton Cup in Bermuda in 2017, its him. Jumpers for
goalposts, itll never be. But with Ainslie in a boat and a roster of exotic locations (and Portsmouth),
there is an untapped audience for it, youd think. The Americas Cup World Series 2016 visits Chicago,
10-12 June, and Portsmouth, 22-24 July. land-rover-bar.americascup.com

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 61


STYLE FILE
Leather Panama card
holder, 95, Smythson
(smythson.com)

Patchwork
T-shirt, 250,
Maison Margiela
(mrporter.com)

EDITORS PICK
Minimal and graphic, this
Mondaine watch chimes with
the seasons love of understated
cool. SARAH ILSTON, FASHION
ASSISTANT. Graphite Helvetica
No 1 watch, 295, Mondaine Leather-strap holdall,
(johnlewis.com) 695, Mulberry
(mrporter.com)

Hotel On The Scene: Conservatorium, Amsterdam


Tapered
THE MOOD: OFF-DUTY URBANITE joggers, 275,
Wooyoungmi
he Dutch capital does dinky, and does it delightfully. Its skyline trips along (mrporter.com)

T the tops of gables, its streets wind around canals. But the time comes when a
traveller needs space, and light, and edge. The Conservatorium delivers those
in style, with a vast atrium lobby-lounge, and calm, minimalist rooms. Italian
designer Piero Lissoni is the star, with his trademark clean lines, muted hues and
cheeky ashes of colour. Out one door of the hotel are the Big Three museums,
exhibiting the best of Van Gogh, the Old Masters and modern art. Out the other is
Amsterdams chicest quarter, where shops scale the summits of international
design. Back inside, the gallery-weary load up with lunchtime salads from the
brasseries ice-table. Upstairs, hipsters clink crystal with a fashionable crowd in
Bomber jacket, 485, a cool bar with a clear glass counter. The history of the place gets a showing,
Tim Coppens too. It was built as a bank in the 19th century colourful Art Nouveau tiles,
(matchesfashion.com) and patterned ooring and brickwork have been beautifully restored. The spa
sweeps the board as the best in the city. Soft-toned wood, natural stone and
Lissonis serene simplicity make the perfect backdrop for purifying,
Eastern-inuenced treatments. The Conservatorium zaps
contemporary spark into a cosy old town. RODNEY BOLT
conservatoriumhotel.com. Doubles from about 445
Colonia eau
de cologne,
Orange-lens
85, Acqua
sunglasses, 113,
di Parma
Emporio Armani
(acquadi
(davidclulow.com).
parma.co.uk)
Striped socks,
17, Paul Smith
(liberty.co.uk)

Palm-print trainers,
Diamond chair, 295, Saint Laurent
1,668, Knoll (matchesfashion.com)
Studio (nest.co.uk)

62 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


THE HOT ISSUE 2016
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TRENDWATCH
SECRET SPACES IN PUBLIC PLACES
All of humanitys problems stem from mans inability to sit quietly in a room alone, wrote French philosopher Blaise Pascal back in the
1600s. Fast-forward four centuries and apparently not much has changed. But, boy, do we try. Remote cabins, of-grid boltholes, silent
retreats there seems no end to the lengths well go to to get away from it all and secure moments of solitude and reection. But what
about nding peace in our busy everyday lives? In response to this, architects are now coming up with ways to enjoy a sense of calm even in
the most hectic places: be it nap pods in airports, meditation booths in cities, or simply dedicated, beautifully designed spaces in which to
snatch ve minutes for ourselves. In 2012, at the busy entrance to a shopping centre in Helsinki, the Kamppi Chapel of Silence was constructed
by K2S Architects. The egg-shaped timber sanctuary received 250,000 visitors in its rst six months alone. For a more secluded moment,
mindfulness app Headspace recently created urban meditation pods with curving ribbed wooden interiors (pictured). Situated anywhere from
city parks to train stations, they will hide a screen programmed with a library of meditations encouraging you to zone out from the traic and
commuters all around. Meanwhile, GoSleep has been planting Sleeping Pods reclining cocoons with a retractable shade over the top at
Abu Dhabi and Dubai airports since 2013. But snoozings not just for layovers. With experts continuing to warn about the problems caused
by sleep deprivation, companies such as Google and Uber are installing oice nap capsules. If your workplace isnt as enlightened yet, take
matters into your own hands with a nifty lampshade-style Tomako pod by Finnish brand Vivero for instant DIY privacy. SARAH ILSTON
PHOTOGRAPH: HEADSPACE.COM

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 65


P R I VAT E V I E W
EVERYONE HAS A PICTURE OF VENICE IN THEIR MINDS EYE BUT LIFE HERE FROM THE LOCAL ANGLE IS LESS FAMILIAR.
LONG-TIME RESIDENT SKYE MCALPINE PICKS THE BEST HOUSES TO CLAIM AS YOUR OWN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEFANO SCATA
67
68
PAL AZZO SAN PIETRO, CASTELLO
These days the sestiere of Castello is the heart of Venices art
scene, just a stones throw from the Biennale. But Rome-based
couple the Mianis took a punt when they bought this run-down
plaster-pink palazzo seven years ago in what was then a rather
scrufy, unremarkable part of town. Having already renovated a
number of abandoned farmhouses in Val dOrcia and turned their
hand to the villas at the Monteverdi Tuscany hotel, interior designer
Ilaria and builder Giorgio undertook this as one of two projects
in the city. It has been painstakingly executed. Archives and
Canaletto paintings were consulted to ensure the restoration was
structurally authentic down to the most minute architectural
feature. The result is beautiful. Inside it has been brought up to
date with carefully curated pieces of modern-vintage furniture,
exposed original brick, the highest thread-count linens, a fabulous
collection of contemporary paintings and a library lled with books
about Venice, art and food everything handpicked by Ilaria.
Crucially for summer, mosquito screens have been installed on all
the windows so the shutters can be ung open at night and guests
can wake to the sound of chiming church bells and gently lapping
water. There are kitchens on three of the four oors, making it just
as easy to eat in the garden as in the rst-level dining room, up on
the rooftop altana or on the grand terrace under a pergola laden
with lilac wisteria. Afterwards, op into the canvas buttery chairs
on the deck and look out to the lagoon in the hazy distance. But
dont stay put for too long: Giorgio, an avid sailor, has kitted out the
house with three boats (all moored at the palazzos own private
water entrance) to travel around town like the locals do.
BOOK IT Bellini Travel (+44 20 7602 7602; bellinitravel.com)
offers three nights from 6,800. Sleeps up to 17
CA CERCHIERI LOREDAN,
DORSODURO
Of course, there is a private jetty at the front of this property
on the Grand Canal, but come here on foot. Winding
through the mesmerising maze of alleyways to nd the
entrance to Palazzo Loredan, pushing open the heavy
wooden gate and stepping into the grassy-green courtyard
makes it appear all the more enchanting. This piano nobile
dates back to the 14th century and, as the birthplace of two
ancient doges of Venice (Leonardo and Francesco Loredan),
has to be one of the most historically heavyweight places to
stay. Inside it is classic and smart, yet still relevant and in
keeping with the surroundings. There are 17th-century
antiques and rich Fortuny fabrics (the showroom at the
100-year-old factory on Giudecca island is well worth a
visit), Venetian terrazzo ooring and lofty beamed ceilings
softened by the glow of Murano-glass chandeliers. The four
bedrooms have canopied beds and exquisite, hand-painted
Zofany wallpaper. Its certainly not fusty museum-living
though. There are deep sofas to kick back in, and a modern
kitchen and bathrooms they just happen to be of a space
that is grand enough to host a ball, with a full-length balcony
overlooking the water to Palazzo Grassi and the Accademia
Bridge. The Ca Rezzonico collection of 18th-century
treasures is less than a ve-minute walk away, as is Campo
San Barnaba, with its fruit and vegetable barge moored
in the canal, and the bars of buzzing Campo Santa Margherita
for an early-evening Aperol Spritz.
BOOK IT Views on Venice (+39 041 241 1149; viewsonvenice.
com) offers stays from about 1,485 per night. Sleeps nine
VILL A F, GIUDECCA
Staying here is like slipping into some kind of wonderland,
a secret garden where you sip tea under a tumble of
sweet-scented rambling roses and where white rabbits
hop among the bushes. At the turn of the last century,
this 16th-century villa was run as a bed and breakfast,
Pensione Frollo, hosting Italys great and good when
they passed through the city (the poet DAnnunzio
was a regular). Over time, the buildings fell into disrepair
and eventually were abandoned until the ever-stylish
Francesca Bortolotto, owner of the Bauer hotels, took
on the project. She restored the main house, its original
frescoes and the three acres of gardens to create a
rural idyll not far from the heart of Venice. Were it not for
the raw plastered walls, Gothic windows and the views
of St Marks Square, you could be in a Tuscan mansion,
swimming laps in the meditation pool or snoozing in
the shade of a magnolia tree. But La Serenissima is all
there, just steps away. The villa is made up of 11 huge
apartments with high ceilings, tapestries on the walls,
parquet oors and whizzy kitchens, as well as access
to room service and laundry from the Bauers Palladio
hotel next door. The smartest of all is Residenza F, for
those who want to see the Doges Palace from their bed.
BOOK IT Apartments from about 1,400 per night
(villafvenezia.com). Sleep two to four
CA DEL PITTORE, CASTELLO
In the sleepy quarter of Castello on the stretch
called Fondamenta San Lorenzo, which fans of Donna
Leons books will recognise as Commissario Brunettis
headquarters, this little apartment has all the romantic
charm of an artists garret. Its right on the top floor with
no lift but, for the fit and healthy, the clamber is worth
it. The owners have carved out a gorgeous bolthole in
the hidden attic space of an old palazzo, with exposed
beams and creaky floorboards, and everything painted
in shades of anthracite and dove-grey. There are two
simple, elegant double bedrooms, each with its own
bathroom, and a loft-like living area with sunken sofas
that can quickly be whipped into extra beds. But perhaps
most lovely of all is the farmhouse-style kitchen the
kind that makes you want to wander to nearby Campo
Santa Maria Formosa and return laden with fresh bread
from the bakery and bruscandoli (wild hop-plant tips)
from the vegetable market, and set about cooking a
proper Italian supper. A feast you will definitely want to
eat on the rooftop terrace, reached by climbing the
wooden steps in the middle of the sitting room. The
360-degree views are knockout: up close theres the
leaning bell tower of San Giorgio dei Greci and
punctuating the horizon are the cloche-like domes of
St Marks Basilica and Santa Maria della Salute.
BOOK IT Views on Venice (+39 041 241 1149; viewson
venice.com) offers stays from about 230 per night. Sleeps four

72
PAL AZZO ALVERA ALTANA, SAN MARCO
Venice from the rooftops is a completely diferent Venice to the one you see when you pound the streets; a rosy-hued skyline
of terracotta tiles, chimney pots and chiming bell towers. And the altana at Palazzo Alvera, with its carpet of Moroccan cushions
under the shaded awning and plenty of prosecco, is probably the loveliest place to take it all in. This stunning 14th-century mansion
facing the hubbub of the Grand Canal is right in the middle of the little triangle of San Marco just beside Campo Santo Stefano
where the most stylish artisanal shops are clustered: Santa Maria Novella (for perfumes and heavenly oils), Chiarastella Cattana
(for elegant printed linens), Loris Marazzi (for eccentric wooden sculptures) and numerous antiques behind dusty windowpanes.
Countess Alver lives downstairs, and Belgian designer Axel Vervoordt and his wife May own the second oor. But the top two
levels are yours to take. Its charmingly bohemian but incredibly chic too, with thick velvets and faded linens, swags and swathes
of silk and painted panelling on the walls. Seven Pierre Frey-bedecked bedrooms are all as pretty as each other. The dining
table is topped with ne glasswork, the sitting room is lined with Ming vases and oriental rugs, and all sorts of eclectic family
treasures are arranged nonchalantly together throughout, although they wouldnt look out of place in a gallery. Its splendid.
BOOK IT Views on Venice (+39 041 241 1149; viewsonvenice.com) offers stays from about 1,400 per night. Sleeps 15
PAL AZZO CONTARINI POLIGNAC,
DORSODURO
This, the second oor in one of the loveliest palaces
in Venice, is all old-world charm and opulence, with a
faded grandeur that only adds to the dreaminess of the
place. There are pastel stuccoed walls, soaring ceilings,
chandeliers and a four-poster princess bed with silk curtains
and cushions like something Marie Antoinette might have
chosen to sleep in (and indeed the Jolie-Pitts did when
they stayed). Even the bathroom walls are frescoed. Every
corner of the palazzo, built in the 14th century, is steeped
in history and art: Stravinsky and Wagner were regular
guests at receptions and musical salons here (you can
recline on the soft green silk-brocade sofa which, legend
has it, was the latters favourite spot). The Polignac family,
who still own the house, pride themselves on keeping the
creative spirit alive: the renowned French artist Roger de
Montebello paints from his studio here; the rst oor is
often used for contemporary-art exhibitions such as
sculptures by Korean artist Lee Ufan; and a workshop or a
private concert may well be taking place just upstairs. Most
likely you will be invited to take part too its that kind of
place. Everything about Palazzo Contarini Polignac is
deeply romantic, not least the views over the Accademia
Bridge on one side, across to the Palazzo Cavalli Franchetti
(right) and down the Grand Canal to the lagoon.
BOOK IT Venice Prestige (+44 20 3356 9667; veniceprestige.
com) offers three nights from about 6,200. Sleeps eight

000
CA DELLE VELE, DORSODURO
For a break from crumbling palazzi and their gilt-edged
pageantry, here is an unexpectedly sleek number. The
two-storey crashpad is brilliantly located right on
the Zattere but down at the eastern end, away from the
vaporetto stops and the over-spilling pizzerias. It is
quieter here, yet no less connected to the action. Get
a modern-art x at the Peggy Guggenheim museum, a
short wiggle through the narrow back calle, or head along
the waterfront to the vast Punta della Dogana, the
citys old customs building, to catch the new Accrochage
exhibition: 70 previously unseen works from Francois
Pinaults extraordinary private collection. This house,
though, has an incredible cityscape of its own. Two huge
ground-oor, chrome-edged picture windows look
straight out across the Giudecca canal. Sit back on a
cappuccino-coloured linen sofa in the living room (raised
on a platform to keep things dry during the acqua alta
high tides) and take in the goldsh-bowl view: the choppy
water and receding wakes, the 16th-century faade of
the Redentore church and the occasional waving
passengers of a passing cruise ship. Restrained and
rened, the use of larch wood, chocolate leather and
bronze does nothing to detract from that sight of
non-postcard-predictable Venice. Up the sculptural spiral
staircase is a pair of cool, minimal bedrooms under the
eaves, and a gorgeous south-facing suntrap terrace.
BOOK IT Views on Venice (+39 041 241 1149; viewson
venice.com) offers stays from about 500 per night. Sleeps six
CALLE DELLE ERBE, GIUDECCA
This is Ilaria and Giorgio Mianis other bolthole, a pied--terre they use when in town. And here you can see interior designer Ilarias
signature citrus hits, her kicks of foresty green, her blasts of pink. Calle delle Erbe is boldly decorated, with brightly coloured walls,
artfully considered touches of chinoiserie, and an industrial stainless-steel kitchen. It seamlessly blends contemporary style with
traditional Venetian details such as the exposed dark beams and distinctive terrazzo ooring. Best of all is the view of the rippling water,
and the bustle of bobbing boats. The two-floor apartment is hidden away on the island of the Giudecca, which few tourists make it to,
other than those staying at the Cipriani. Elton John and David Furnish may have a villa here but the neighbours you are more likely
to bump into are bona-fide locals who reside and work in Venice and have done all their lives. In fact, the Giudecca is only a short
vaporetto ride from St Marks Square but delivers an off-the-beaten-track charm which can be hard to come across in a city with tens
of millions of visitors every year. Here there are butchers, bakers and patisseries, as well as the Redentore, Venices most impressive
Palladian church. Excellent restaurants are also within easy walking distance, including Harrys Dolci and Trattoria Altanella.
BOOK IT Bellini Travel (+44 20 7602 7602; bellinitravel.com) offers three nights from 1,450. Sleeps six
78
flotsam
anD then
some
on a 500-mile trek
along britains
beaches, Artist
stuart haygarth
collected 36,000
man-made objects
that had been
washed ashore, and
then arranged
them into sublime
explosions of
colour and order
I spent 38 days gathering objects on weekly trips. Id park my VW camper van as close as possible to the coast and then walk for hours
to my destination before catching a taxi or bus back to my van to camp over night, think through the days haul and write my travel log.
80
Near the archetypal holiday spots of Broadstairs and Margate I was surprised to find nothing of interest to collect but stumbled across a long pink
plastic penis wedged between rocks. It was a novelty straw, which made me smile and feel like an archaeologist finding an ancient drinking implement.
82
I have spent several
years rescuing balls which
were once objects of play
and suddenly became
redundant because of
a misguided throw.
My favourite discovery was Chesil beach near Portland in Dorset. It is 18 miles long and separated from the mainland by the Fleet
lagoon. The size of the beach is dramatic, and because it is exposed to high winds sea-borne bits and bobs are plentiful.
84
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALL WORKS BY THE ARTIST COPYRIGHT 2016 STUART HAYGARTH. COURTESY OF THE ARTIST

I nd beauty in the way the objects change visually due to the continuous action of the salt water and sand. Colours fade and plastic becomes
sandblasted and there is a story to each piece. Strand by Stuart Haygarth is out now (28, Art/Books). artbookspublishing.co.uk
a r d e n
G

leave PHOTOGRAPH: MARIE LOUISE MUNKSGAARD

First they came to Denmark for the best restaurant in the


world. Then they found an extraordinary island Eden.
This is Bornholm, where everything blossoms and blooms

BY Gemma Zoe price. Photographs by Line Klein

86
Clockwise from top left: a boutique on Bornholm; a smokehouse; Lov i Listed shop; Svaneke; a vintage shop in Gudhjem; lettuce from Kadeaus garden; a trawler;
herring; Melsted Badehotel. Opposite, rye bread at the hotel. Previous pages from left: a dish of sorrel and potato at Kadeau; breakfast at Melsted Badehotel
The jaunty 1959 song by Ib Mossin toots
the delights of this summer getaway: The Sunshine Island in the
Baltic Sea! My Bornholm! Your girls are so pretty! From Sandvig
to Nex to Rnne! And if you take the ferry from Ystad, the
port closest to Copenhagen, youll have the pleasure of hearing
it multiple times during the 80-minute crossing. More recently,
the beachy Danish territory, midway between Sweden and
Poland and long lauded by artists and poets for its landscapes
and pure light, is attracting a different kind of traveller. Within
Denmark Bornholm has always been famous for smoked fish;
every village and town has its own smokehouses and every
other low-slung, half-timbered fishing cottage is topped with
a smokestack chimney. But it wasnt until years after Ren
Redzepi and Claus Meyer opened Noma and their New Nordic
manifesto had rocketed to the fore internationally that people
really starting paying attention to this bountiful spot. The
foodies that flocked to Copenhagen in the mid-2000s are
now booking their summer holidays here.
My boyfriends mother Marianne Andersen and her
husband Steen have lived on the island for ages. In fact, Steen
was born here, but they werent the only ones championing
the place. Every time I visited Denmark over the years Id
heard about Bornholm, from chefs and fashion designers to beach below: whole crispy shrimp with asparagus and spirulina
people Id chatted to while throwing dice in a bodega along a dipped in fermented corn; crunchy stemmed kale, picked by
Christianshavn canal. It had taken on a mythical shape in my the kitchen staff that morning, with mussels and gooseberries;
minds eye. Compared to other Baltic Sea islands, Bornholm pork from heritage-breed, forest-reared pigs with black-garlic
has a long, warm growing season with lots of daylight, sheltered gel, beets and blackcurrant; rhubarb with blue cheese and
valleys and extremely fertile soil, which makes it a farmers fermented honey from Kadeaus hives. Its easy to understand
paradise. Kadeau, older sister to the Michelin-starred restaurant why so many people make the journey to Bornholm for this
in Copenhagen of the same name, was set up in a former experience. The night before, Nrregaard says, four groups of
PHOTOGRAPHS: SARAH COGHILL; MIKKEL HERIBA; MARIE LOUISE MUNKSGAARD

beachfront caf to showcase the islands natural produce. As guests had travelled from the mainland especially for supper.
head chef and co-owner Nicolai Nrregaard and I walk through And in February, this Kadeau received a Michelin star of its own.
the restaurants main garden a project he tends with his father The Kadeau team launched Sommer Pony, a more relaxed
he points out bushes heavy with ripening boysenberries and outpost, last summer. Its set in boutique hotel Nordlandet
redcurrants, rows of sprouting leeks and onions, and edible on the islands northern tip and tables are already the hottest
roses he describes as the taste of Bornholm. Anything they in town. Like the hotel, the monochrome restaurant and
dont have space to grow, such as pumpkins, they forage or open kitchen have sea views and the minimalist, clean lines
source from local farmers and gardens; the annotated map of Danish modern design, plus a straightforward menu and
on Kadeaus menu lists more than 40 suppliers, including laid-back vibe. The Pony Kick set lunch, chosen by the chef
separate fishermen for herring and turbot and what Nrregaard each day, is a great way to get stuck in; there are also small
declares to be the best strawberries in the world (nobody plates such as cured brill with smoked egg, gherkins and spelt
knows the variety, and original producer Hans Age isnt telling). crackers or more substantial main courses, including ribeye
Everything flourishes here, says Nrregaard, who knows the with bone-marrow sauce. And if you just want a newspaper-
seasons like the back of his hand. In summer we harvest figs wrapped pie to eat on a bench as the sun dips below the horizon,
and mulberries, which you cant do anywhere else in the Skipperkroen, a fishermans retreat 10 minutes drive down the
north. Last year we pickled 300kg of marrow, which is a lot, road, does great no-frills fast food sausages, meatballs and
but we used it all up it was gone by January. cold-cut platters and live music. Youll find harbour workers
Cocooned by fragrant herb gardens and warmed by woollen in here most evenings, playing games of pool.
blankets and the restaurants open fire, I work my way through Its almost impossible to eat badly on Bornholm. In the heart
14 extraordinary courses while watching the waves break on the of the island, right in among the forest and painted a beaming

89
The restaurant
had only been
open nine hours
but news travels
fast here.
Seventy people
showed up for
drinks and
another 100 came
for dinner
Clockwise from top left: dream cake; a caf in Gudhjem; granola and a bedroom at Melsted Badehotel; Kadeau; Sebastian Frost jewellery shop; a dish of beetroot
and sorrel, the terrace and a model boat at Melsted Badehotel. Previous pages from left: deck chairs beside the hotel; sun-dried herring by chef Carsten Kyster
yellow so you cant possibly miss it, the Christianshjkroen inn The island is incredibly pretty and laced with lovely roads
is perfect for post-hike lunches. The name translates as chicken and 150 miles of cycling routes. The 30-minute drive from
mother but dont expect baskets of fried drumsticks; it serves the main port city of Rnne on the west coast to Nex on the
pretty plates of beef tartare and pickled herring with scoops, east takes you through a patchwork of green pastures dotted
foams, crumbs and foraged herbs. It also runs an initiative for with grazing Jersey cows and horses. Rows of towering corn
people with learning difficulties who are employed as kitchen stalks flank red-walled, thatched farmhouses and white wooden
assistants or to give guided walks in the woods. At the other barns spill feathery yellow plumes of straw from their haylofts.
end of the scale, French restaurant Le Port, in the village of Rather than sell produce in a shop, locals set up honesty
Vang, is so discreetly high-end its not even signposted from the boxes which you pass on almost every street: big trays of
street. This is one of the islands more romantic dinner spots; eggs and bags of potatoes for 2 apiece, timber, berries even
tables are surrounded by racks of Bordeaux and Burgundies home-knitted blankets and crocheted cardigans.
and dishes include lamb culottes with mushrooms and just- And the architecture is a beguiling mix of old and new.
shelled peas, and halibut with scallops, fennel and parsley. World War II bunkers and communication towers testify to
Last May, the Gaarden opened in the town of Gudhjem. Its Bornholms maritime history and strategic importance; you
a sort of farmers market where foodies can try all sorts of can still climb the spiral steps at Hammeren lighthouse for
traditional flavours and, in the open kitchen, learn how to make views that go on for miles. The 13th-century fortress ruins at
rye bread and salads with ingredients just plucked from the soil. Hammershus are just as famous for the conflicts fought here
The annual cooking contest, Sol over Gudhjem, held in June, gets as for the clog-wearing troll Krlle Blle, who anyone will
bigger every year, attracting top names from across Denmark. tell you lives in the caves nearby. The round white churches
Chefs and restaurateurs who grew up on the island and left for are emblematic of the island: the oldest, Osterlars, dates from
the bright lights and heftier wages of Copenhagen are now 1160 and at some point was fortified with a top-floor shooting

On every street honesty boxes have trays of eggs


and Bags of potatoes, timber, berries, even
home-knitted blankets and crocheted cardigans

returning for longer and longer stints. Michael Rnnebaek-Rrth gallery. In contrast, the 1950s pyramid-shaped Svaneke Water
champions Bornholm produce year-round at his successful Tower by Jrn Utzon, the Danish architect responsible for the
Copenhagen restaurant Koefoed, but devotes his summers to Sydney Opera House, and the new Green Solution House the
running pop-ups here. At his Hummerhytten (lobster hut), worlds first cradle-to-cradle hotel, which emphasises reusable
within the gardens of a whitewashed fishermans cottage in materials and renewable energy are great examples of the
Svaneke, a pair of cooks work elbow-to-elbow on a two-ring islands progressive mentality and proclivity for modern design.
hob. Wooden tables are scattered about, the most coveted set For contemporary Danish fashion and homewares, the
directly inside the open-front smokestack and lit by a chandelier town of Svaneke is a great place to shop. Pernille Blow was
suspended in the chimney. The dishes, such as cold boiled one of the first artisans to establish a studio here (she can
shrimp with lemon mayo and lobster tail with pea puree on often be seen working glowing, red-hot bulbs of molten glass
fresh peas, are just as unpretentious as the location. When I at the furnaces within her cavernous workshop). Today the
swing by, the restaurant has only been open for nine hours, but lanes are filled with independent clothing, ceramics and glass
news on Bornholm travels fast. We held a reception for local stores. But in a place where every decision seems to be driven
residents last night and thought only 20 would show up. We by peoples appetites its hardly surprising that the local food
ended up serving drinks and food to 70 people and another including the liquorice at Pernilles son Johans store, where
100 came for dinner, Rnnebaek-Rrth says as he pours me a confectioners can be seen working the black, tar-like mounds
glass of Sauvignon Blanc and then flies back into the kitchen. is still by far the biggest, juiciest, stickiest draw.

Where to drop anchor on Bornholm


PHOTOGRAPHS: SARAH COGHILL; MIKKEL HERIBA

Nordlandet, Allinge After renovations last year this hotel now has an ultra- Stammershalle Badehotel, Gudhjem The pristine white Lassens restaurant
restrained Nordic style with lament light bulbs, charcoal-painted walls and in this imposing seaside retreat, run by award-winning chef Daniel Kruse,
tongue-and-groove cladding in the east-facing bedrooms, from which there is well known for its French-inspired food. You can also pop into the hotel
are spectacular views of sunrise over the water. Theres no reception desk: for afternoon tea: tuck into drmmekage a Danish cofee dream cake
ring the hall bell and someone will appear, but other than that you have the made with vanilla caramelised coconut and sticky pastries. Afterwards,
run of the place, plus direct access to the Sommer Pony pop-up on the terrace. collapse in one of the 16 pared-back bedrooms with views of the steely
+45 56 480 344; nordlandet.dk. Doubles from about 125 Baltic and towards the island of Christians.
Melsted Badehotel, Gudhjem Overlooking a sandy beach that interrupts +45 56 484 210; stammers halle-badehotel.dk. Doubles from about 95
the north-west coasts rocky shoreline, the 18 bright rooms here channel a Green Solution House, Rnne Part-hotel, part-convention hub, this is an
New England vibe, with faded orals and nautical stripes, and alongside the exercise in sustainable building, earnestly constructed from biodegradable
croquet lawn and putting green is a row of Adirondack chairs looking out to materials wherever possible, from eco-label wall paint to vintage-wool-
sea. The restaurant though, run by chef Frederik Bille Brahe, is all Danish, upholstered furniture. The roof is planted with a heathery mix of plants,
with black kale, foraged chanterelles and locally reared pork on the menu. and bathwater is repurposed to irrigate the vegetable patch.
+45 56 485 100; melsted-badehotel.dk. Doubles from about 145 +45 56 95 19 13; greensolutionhouse.dk. Doubles from about 110

93
94
TAKE ME HIGHER
EVEN AS NEW MISSIONS ARE BEING PLANNED TO FIND LIFE ON MARS, JUST BENEATH THE SURFACE OF
OUR OWN PLANET THERE ARE CONSTELLATIONS OF WONDROUS ORGANISMS THAT FLIP THE WORLD ON ITS HEAD.
JULIAN EVANS REDISCOVERS THE GREAT BARRIER REEF. PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG
o snorkel, dive or fly over the Great Barrier colour. We were an hour east of Lizard Island on Davids boat,

T
Reef is to glimpse a marvellous autonomy. Serranidae, where the Reef meets the blue-black Pacific in
From 150 metres up, the black lozenge shallows suddenly mint-aquamarine, the swell foaming over
of a manta ray quartering a platform of pale them, sharks-tooth white.
coral gives a powerful sense of natures Growing up in Brisbane, Id spent my earliest holidays on
indifference. But truly to enter its world, you the Reef. It seems incredible that through the 1960s and 1970s
must descend. Sort the fussy details of scuba oil, mining and political interests were intent on drilling and
gear, equalise pressure and buoyancy. Kneel blasting it for petroleum, gas and fertiliser for the Queensland
on the white sand 10 metres below the surface, canefields. Then, around the time Jean Shrimpton scandalised
or simply drift on the current and wait for life to materialise in Australia by appearing at the Melbourne Cup in a white mini-
the perfect silence. Its a busy, self-sufficient world. A shoal dress without hat or gloves, a few activists started campaigning.
of yellow-tailed fusiliers spiral like an Alexander Calder mobile. It took 15 years to get the Reef designated a marine park.
A clownfish plays hide-and-seek in the fronds of its host World Heritage-listed in 1981 as the most impressive marine area
anemone. Move, and 20 violet- and chocolate-lipped clams sigh in the world, it is now known to possess 580 species of coral,
shut like an orchestra of noiseless cymbals. Move again, and more than 1,500 species of fish, six of the seven turtle species
50 brilliant Christmas-tree worms vanish into their holes in the on the planet, and its value is understood differently: as a
boulder coral. Theyre all about their business, shopping, dining, phenomenally rich ecosystem in which coral polyps organisms
visiting, mating; the realms they inhabit villages and districts, like tiny upside-down jellyfish and zooxanthellae algae live
pillars and tables and circuses, gardens and meadows bustling in symbiosis. Algae provide oxygen and energy, coral a safe
in all their artful coral variety. habitat and carbon dioxide for photosynthesis. Reefs are the
Lizard Island, humpbacked and biblically handsome, is a rainforests of the seas, and vitally, for humans healthy reef
granite button lapped by raw blues that pull your eye towards corals absorb carbon at nearly twice the rate a rainforest can.
the intensity and immensity of sea and sky. The morning, Every discovery we make discovers something in us. Mine, as
said David, our skipper, quoting Robert Louis Stevenson, is ah! I travelled the extent of the Reef approximately the length of
such a morning as you have never seen; heaven upon earth Italy, an area of 350,000 square kilometres was that entering
for sweetness, freshness, depth upon depth of unimaginable its unsignposted territory connected me to the most mysterious

Opening pages, Whitehaven Beach in the Whitsunday Islands. Previous pages and above, flying from Cairns over the Reef. Opposite: looking skywards
through the photographers air bubbles; a blacktip reef shark a species often encountered by divers at Bramble Reef, near Orpheus Island

96
place I have known, in which I could only rely on my
senses. This, I think, is precious. Its as life should be.
From Orpheus Island, 640km south of Lizard, I dived
Bramble Reef, a perfect reef-as-city, with coral tables
like city blocks and gullies that open out into sandy
squares. Slashes of pastels, lumpy as clay or fragile as lace,
give way to a coral Soho of blues, pinks, neon yellows
and purples, bustling with startling crowds and shameless
individualists: painted sweetlips, six-banded angelfish,
long-beaked coralfish, scarlet-breasted Maori wrasse, a
timid baby moray eel, a starfish of Yves Klein blue. Black-
tip reef sharks steal past in the foggy distance.
In the Whitsunday Islands, at the Reefs southern end,
the gleaming One&Only Hayman Island a world away
from the gum trees and beach huts I visited as a boy
offered a moment of ethereal beauty when its helicopter
deposited me, like a butterfly alighting, on the 98-per-
cent-silica sand of Whitehaven Beach, sand that boggles
the senses with its whiteness and coolness underfoot and
its furling, filigree arabesques in the shallow currents.
Few disagree that the worlds coral reefs are, in terms
of climate change and our survival, the canary in the
coalmine. Yet for every scientist who says that the Great

DRIFT ON THE
CURRENT AND WAIT
FOR LIFE TO
MATERIALISE IN THE
PERFECT SILENCE
Barrier Reef is threatened with irreversible decline,
another describes a Reef that will adapt, one that has
died and come to life again at least five times before, its
sublime palette of sulphur, lilac, cream, violet, magenta,
lime and tourmaline reviving and blooming again.
Passing through the city of Townsville I stopped at Reef
HQ, where an aquarium and other visitor attractions
are combined with research and outreach. The affable
director, Fred Nucifora, led me to a turtle-rehabilitation
area. Visitors surged into the room after us. We watched
them cluck sympathetically at the creatures that had
been injured by plastic bags, hooks, fishing lines. I hope
you can see, Nucifora said, that its not turtles were
rehabilitating here. Its humans.
Theres the key. The Great Barrier Reef is declining.
The Great Barrier Reef is recovering. What matters is
that those facts converge at a point where the Reefs
ability to recover is greater than the factors warming
seas and overdevelopment causing its decline. For now,
the Great Barrier Reef is still unimaginable beauty
known. Let it not be beauty lost.

Spotted eagle rays, which have a wingspan of up to three metres

98
ENTERING ITS UNSIGNPOSTED TERRITORY CONNECTED
ME TO THE MOST MYSTERIOUS PLACE I HAVE KNOWN
WHERE TO STAY
TO GET BENEATH THE SURFACE OF THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

LIZARD ISLAND respectively. The diving, particularly at Cod a handful of hotels really are, dedicated to
Two hundred kilometres north of Cairns, this Hole, is excellent, and the Lizard Island making you content to forget that anything
is accessible only by private charter. The Research Station is one of the worlds leading else exists or matters one of those places
shocked, defoliated look of the island's granite reef-research facilities the hotel can arrange where what Martha Gellhorn called
hills is the result of two recent back-to-back visits. Despite their alarming appearance, the kitchen of life disappears. Formerly
cyclones a fact of life at this latitude. But the the yellow-spotted monitors, which inspired owned by people in the entertainment industry
storms also provided a chance to rebuild the Captain Cook when he named the island in Vivien Leigh stayed here it was bought in
islands hotel in an elegant, almost puritanical- 1770, are not to be feared they are polite 2011 by Chris Morris, a tech millionaire, who
looking line of minimalist white-clapboard and and discreet to the point of timidity. rebuilt it basically for family and friends.
zinc-roofed villas, among the thinned-out lizardisland.com.au. Doubles from about 910 Twenty-eight staf look after a maximum
palms and paperbark trees. The efect is one of 28 guests, none of the rooms has a key and
of old-fashioned freshness, and it lets the raw the atmosphere is as unforced as the service
blues that lap the islands humpbacked rocks ORPHEUS ISLAND is seamless. Jen, the islands gardener for
and beaches enhance the incredible vistas A chopper hop out of Townsville, there's been 16 years, has 50 hens that she massages
of sea and sky. Often an asset of remote a hotel hidden away here since the 1950s. every day and a vegetable garden conjured
island hotels is their attention to foodie detail, Its pedigree is obvious as you step from the from desert-island sand. She likes to have
and Lizard Islands Salt Water restaurant is helipad onto a wide, colonial-era lawn, green coconuts for the guests, and Arie, the
no exception: Blackman Bay oysters, red-claw perfect for garden parties, and walk towards a chef, produces omelettes of miraculous
yabbies with wasabi avocado, Black Angus night-blue-tiled swimming pool, pantiled sweetness from her hens eggs. The diving is
eye llet in sea-urchin butter, along with bungalows and a panoramic open lounge and exceptional: its principal dive sites are home
equally extraordinary Pinot Noir and restaurant decorated with rustic plasterwork. to 1,100 of the Reefs 1,500 sh species.
Shiraz from Victoria and South Australia Orpheus is for the happy few, as perhaps only orpheus.com.au. Doubles from about 750

Above, a turtles-eye view under the surface. Opposite, one of the 1,500 species of sh on the Reef; sea anemone at Bramble Reef

103
IN SHALLOWS SUDDENLY MINT-AQUAMARINE THE
FOAMING SWELL IS SHARK'S-TOOTH WHITE
ONE&ONLY HAYMAN ISLAND
At the northern tip of the Whitsunday Islands,
this is a sleek retreat on a grand scale. Recently
and lavishly refurbished at a cost of
40 million, its cradled in a lovingly maintained
rainforest landscape, and slickly supplies all
needs to the point where the temptation
simply to stay put may become diicult to
resist. But of course there are many exciting
and exotic reef-oriented activities, including
helicopter tours of the Outer Reef and
motorised snorkelling with electric Seabobs.
Signature spa treatments await even those
weary reef explorers who choose to let the
Seabobs do their paddling for them. (The
Ocean Dreaming therapy is actually conducted
on a oating table in the sea. Appointment
times are dictated by the tides.) Rooms are airy
and bright, with accents of shiny chrome and
pale oak amid great tumbles of muslin and
translucent white linen, at once contemporary
and retro-chic. The vibe at the Chefs Table,
one of six restaurants, might mislead you into
thinking that your Martini has teleported you
to New York. Better still, inhabit the present
by taking your drink on the beach, with the
Coral Sea at your feet and, as every good bar
in the tropics faces west, the sun slipping
away behind your toes. oneandonly
resorts.com. Doubles from about 450

DIVING LOWDOWN
With some two million visitors to the Reef
each year, the diving scene is thriving. Options
for beginners are many: one of the friendliest is
the Cairns Dive Centre (cairnsdive.com.au),
which ofers the standard four-day PADI
Open Water course for a reasonable price
(about 300) in the company of professional
and likeable instructors. Because most of
the Reef is a marine-park area, operators
must be accredited and adhere to strict
environmental standards. Diving is almost
always better in the north, where the waters
clearer, because its less rich in nutrients, and
better in the Australian winter and spring.

GETTING HERE
Austravel (+44 800 988 4834; austravel.com)
ofers 10-day trips to the Great Barrier Reef
from 2,249 per person, including ights,
transfers, excursions and stays at Lizard
Island, Orpheus Island and One&Only Hayman
Island. For more information on the Great Barrier
Reef, visit queensland.com

105
GET THE DRIFT
Its now a stop-off on the glittery international art circuit and yet the boho, go-slow
Greek island of Hydra will always sway gently to its own rhythm

Words by Antonia Quirke. Photographs by Oliver Pilcher


Sailing into the small saronic island of Hydra in early summer, feel about the wheel the way the Amish do about Velcro: they
the unrivalled colour I see is yellow. The port a perfect horseshoe know of its existence and have determined that with it comes the
backs into a high amphitheatre dotted with 18th-century fall. How wise this has proved. No wheels have meant no heavy
mariners mansions painted citrine, picked out now by the construction or gigantic hotels; the island can never be overcrowded
morning sun. It is a Rip Van Winkle town, cute-warm and coiled or spoiled through overdevelopment, and has the atmosphere of a
around dazzling-bright labyrinths of steep steps and slender streets. long-cherished and deeply quixotic place, a place far, far away, even
I arrive to hear that summer so far has been a flow of clear-blue though it is separated from the Peloponnese by just a narrow strip
days, and that Leonard Cohen was around last night handing of water. There are no street names on Hydra either. You simply set
out olives and ouzo. As Cohen has lived here on and off since the off and see what lies around the next corner. Floras caf, perhaps,
1960s, its not impossible but best ask the islands keeper of in a bright square full of lemon trees, with its pots of exquisite
stories, harbour master Pandelis, about such things. cold rice pudding spiced with cinnamon. Or a sweet supermarket
Prodigiously bearded and continually harassed by sailors wanting where the freezer bursts hilariously with octopus tentacles and
a mooring in the snug port, hes being followed about today by the honey comes in tins stacked in a quivering 10ft pyramid.
the king of Malaysia. Apparently the king of the Netherlands is
on the lookout for him too, not that Pandelis demonstrates any Im so hot and lazy. Hardier friends return from Hydra trim from
favouritism, standing in his small tug yelling instructions to trekking across the island to the handful of pebbled beaches along
fishermen and kings alike, happy to park any one of them next the coast, although most people take a water taxi for a few euros.
to a semi-derelict vessel filled with nautical junk. For centuries ancient Hydra was nothing but an obscure pirates lair
There is no denying that in some months of the year Hydra and youll find no temple ruins to visit. There is blissfully nothing
has immense glamour. In the high season, weeks pass when its to do, really, save sleep and swim and order hot baked peppers
port feels almost like a little St Tropez, full of visitors lolling over and drink retsina until your tongue is raw. Or perhaps take a turn
the days first glass of Champagne. Other times, youll find only around the mansion of a great patriotic seafaring family, semi-
a few old men playing backgammon, and smooching couples off museums hung with the rapiers of daring local captains.
the early hydrofoil from Athens ordering pastries for breakfast. Hydra has long attracted artists and art money. In cliff-side
On the cobbles, a line of donkeys waits patiently to carry galleries in June and July, New Yorkers show short films on the
suitcases up to the hotels and apartments. There are no land subject of dislocation to an excess of global super-collectors, after
vehicles here, not even pushbikes. Banned for all time. Hydriots which everybody troops off to a taverna and gets un-Americanly
Above from left: a sitting room in the house of interior designer Tino Zervudachi on Hydra; swimming from rocks. Left, a terrace at the house. Previous pages,
from left: a bedroom at the house; cliftop Ekklisia Agios Nikolaos and a yacht. Following pages, clockwise from top left: Krieze Street, Kamini; the home of
Greek gallery owner Daphne Zoumboulakis; tomato salad at Kodylenias taverna; a bedroom at Bratsera Hotel. Right, the pool at the Zervudachi house
THIS IS A RIP VAN WINKLE TOWN, CUTE-WARM AND COILED AROUND
DAZZLING-BRIGHT LABYRINTHS OF STEEP STEPS AND SLENDER STREETS
drunk. The island seems to absorb this fashionable display of chatter then sharply straightening seconds before impact. Everybody
and ambition, and enjoy it enormously for a while, but is just as explodes in applause. (What goes through your mind when you
happy when everybody melts away back to Milan or Brooklyn. hit the water? I ask him one night after bumping into him on a
But no activity on Hydra compares to a trip out in a boat. dancefloor in town. Pulling a mock-dramatic face he leans into
The island is only 50 kilometres square and completely riveting my ear and whispers, the full moon.)
when seen from the water, despite not being particularly lush or Half an hour passes as we hug the coast. On the distant hills
landscaped with the comely vines and olive trees of other Greek I spot a house, very high and white and alone. By foot it would
islands. Still, whichever way you turn, the impact is captivating. take perhaps two days to get there from the port. Pine trees, heat,
Late one afternoon I join Tasos and Eleanora a fisherman cicadas. What happens when someone gets old or sick and they
and his girl searching for squid on a simple cruiser. Chugging out can no longer walk down for food? Oh, they just wait, shrugs
of the port along the coast we pass the popular Hydronetta bar Tasos, lounging with his arm around Eleanora, pausing for the
on the cliffs where people are already gathering for sundowners optimum moment to drop his fishing lines strung with the fake
and, moments later, the house where Byron once stayed (On old silver fry so loved by greedy squid.
Aeginas rock and Hydras isle/The god of gladness sheds his I dont know why my heart stands quite so still it is only a
parting smile). Sere thistles and bright Judas trees punctuate the house on a hill but the patience. The peace.
nearby shore close to grand villas and more modest cottages As the afternoon draws to a close, everything beyond the lulling
overhung with harebells and gentians. After a few minutes, the shores is washed in a plumbago haze. The mainland in the near
distinctive landmark of a squat terracotta mansion in the village distance shimmers through a silvery curtain of atmosphere. Athens
of Kamini that once belonged to a wealthy publisher but is now is just 68km away, although it feels infinitely remote. Even the
used for storage and is full of buoys and ropes, and a defunct pretty ketch now bobbing into view seems almost a chimera.
but magnificent glitterball rescued from the sea. Plonked on the stern, a pot of basil; above it, a bikini hung up to
A little further along, we pass the chapel of Saint Kyprianos, dry. Nobody seems to be onboard.
made from mud and wine and constructed long ago in gratitude by Hydra is the birthplace of five Greek prime ministers and the
the survivors of a terrible storm, and beyond that a cove where five first president of the Second Hellenic Republic. Ive often wondered
goats, almost mythically huge really the size of Shetland ponies why that was so, this relatively barren rock with one town and a
play along the shore. Standing whooping on rocks, a group of kids handful of hamlets reached by foot or donkey. Some places are just
watch a menacingly handsome adolescent known locally as Wolf like that: powerfully and romantically unusual. Its current mayor
Boy free-diving from a crag, arching his body like a rainbow and the son of a grocer grew up on the island but won a scholarship to
Above from left: an old building in Kamini; a bedroom in the private home of TV producer Alexandra Henderson. Opposite, clockwise from top left:
Rafalias pharmacy, Hydra Town; the Zervudachi house; a cove on the coastal path; a sitting room in the Henderson home. Previous pages, Hydra port
THERE IS BLISSFULLY
NOTHING TO DO,
REALLY, SAVE SLEEP AND
SWIM AND DRINK
RETSINA UNTIL YOUR
TONGUE IS RAW
read philosophy at Cambridge, returning home to be elected to icebreaker. And then, soon after, a gentlemans motor yacht the
office at just 36. I see him one day carrying a pile of books, and he Mabrouka which had belonged to Lawrence of Arabia, enveloped
shows me a photograph of himself looking scholastic in his room at in the resin-drenched smell of a newly renovated ship.
university. On the walls, nothing but the Hydriot revolutionary flag. Girls on their way to an opening at the DESTE Project Space
wear Balmain dresses and sexy-fantastic shoes. American teenagers
I go on a dawn mule ride up to the high Monastery of St Matrona on a tour of the Argolic Gulf, their pink skin glowing freckled as
to take carrots to 70-something Sister Nectaria. Leading the little foxgloves, step off boats, daring each other and shouting. The lights
expedition is 26-year-old blonde Harriet who came to Hydra aged of the port enrich and refine the many colours until past midnight
10 from Uxbridge with her mother and has the best-groomed when a low-hanging moon turns the sea to iron and outside
donkeys on the island. On the way she tells me about a secret valley Papagalos bar the drinkers faces flicker in mirrored oil lamps,
where in the winter, feeling lonely, she used to hunt for quail somewhere between the waking world and the world of dreams.
and hare, and where there is an ancient chapel that had long lost Much later, after cocktails and dancing to bad Greek pop music at
its bell. One morning she met a man out hunting too, Vasili a Red Club, I lose my way in the backstreets. Because high buildings
Hydriot much older than her, warm-hearted and they fell in love within the harbour protect the port, nights here have a drugging,
and he restored the bell in her honour. Now they are engaged and winey warmth, and bursts of hibiscus everywhere black-red in the
go to the valley together to listen to its peal. She says all this shadows. Then whitewashed walls and pretty apartments and
unselfconsciously, unaware of how absurdly enchanting it sounds. squares of long-deserted rococo merchants mansions shuttered
Vasili, brown eyes full of worry, dotingly leads our mules through and still. Without scooters or cars, the quiet on Hydra has a
banks of bracken and myrtle and masses of what looks like a wild, discernible pulse. Yet from an open window a little further
thorny buttercup hung with dew-shivering spiders webs. along comes the sound of John Denvers Leaving on a Jet Plane,
Up at the monastery, sisters Nectaria and Matrona, dressed in and I make my way down the street to poke my head through.
black habits and veils, have been awake for hours. Theyre the Salvaged maritime miscellany muddles the room. Water-
only nuns left here now (across all of Greece there is a crisis in damaged paintings, chests and whistles. And there is Pandelis
recruiting to the religious life), resident since they were 11 and 14 frying potatoes, standing on hazardous floorboards. We both hoot
when, consumed with heavenly duty, they walked up the hill to at the surprise of seeing him in a house rather than yelling from
present themselves. Working contentedly at their sewing machines, a harbour wall. Oh, dig out those photos of Sophia Loren, I
the nuns are full of news about a rare trip to a hospital in plead. He was an extra in Boy on a Dolphin when he was 10, an
Athens where Matrona, homesick and bewildered, had to drag a experience he speaks of rarely, as though such precious memories
mesmerised Nectaria out of the flower shops off Syntagma Square. ought to remain shrouded. On the cabinet by my head, a formal
Sitting on the courtyard wall we drink tea and gaze out across portrait of him at around that age wearing a little white peasants
the island: sky-blue as an agapanthus. Behind us, dry peaks burn; smock, standing outside the church of Saint Dimitrios, where
far below, the curved lick of deserted and glassy Mandraki bay. there is an esteemed deacon called Manoles who chants the
Nectaria turns to smile dotingly at Harriet, nodding her approval liturgy every Sunday in a voice so transportingly Byzantine that
to Vasili. We stole her from England, she rocks, patting Harriets women stand outside the door weeping into their hankies.
hair as it gleams pale in the sun. We took her and kept her. But Pandelis waves me off.
Back down on the shore, in peaceful Kamini, a short walk along It was her body double, he tuts as I duck away. She was much
the path from the port, I have what I think of now as the perfect more beautiful. Her body double!
Aegean afternoon, starting with a binge at the smallest restaurant Then, just the cobbled street, and a waiter sweeping mounds of
Ive ever seen: four tables and a menu of three dishes written on a purple blossom and squashed figs.
chalkboard strung with dried sage. I am served fresh anchovies and
giant fava beans, and creamy slabs of cheese, Greece teaching me
yet again that feta only ever comes one of two ways: either a salty HYDRA HIGH POINTS
chore or a thing you cant stop forking until you faint.
THE HOTEL
After lunch, a swim, simply stepping off nearby rocks into the The Bratsera (bratserahotel.com; doubles from about 120), a converted
sea. Far beneath my feet are sponges of such rare quality Hydriot sponge factory moments from the harbour, has cool, high-windowed
merchants sold them the world over for centuries and they still rooms and a lovely little pool. Breakfasts are exceptionally good.
come up from abyssal depths the colour of caramel, smelling of
kelp forests. Even Sophia Loren couldnt resist, clutching several THE BARS
to her dcollet after a dive scene in the 1957 movie Boy on a The Pirate Bar in the port is an institution. All the bars along the clif
Dolphin, which was filmed here. Half the island appeared in it and leading out of town are super for sunset drinks. Papagalos serves great
everybody still talks about it like it happened yesterday. Time on cocktails and is a more sheltered place to watch boats come and go.
Hydra is relative, ever-deepening and drifting. For the rest of that
lovely, lost afternoon, Kamini is siesta-deserted. Next to someones T H E R E S TA U R A N T S
Xeri Elia Douskos taverna in Hydra Town is always good, with supper likely
abandoned towel on the rocks, a handful of fresh apricots.
accompanied by old men singing and playing guitar. Petkakis, above the
That evening along the waterfront theres the gossipy murmur swimming rocks in Kamini, is tiny but dishes up delicious vine leaves. At
of newly arrived summer crowds. The billionaire art collector Kodylenias taverna, also in Kamini, try the feta with red pepper and squid.
Dakis Joannou (a long-time visitor to the island) has just docked
in a fibreglass tank designed by Jeff Koons enormously blue THE BEACH
and yellow, steaming menacingly through the water like a cubist Hydras handful of beaches are mostly pebbly and reached by foot or
boat, which you pick up in the port beside the donkey stand. With its
Opposite, a sitting room in the Zoumboulakis house toddler-friendly shallows, Four Seasons is a lovely place to spend the day.
AROUND THE WORLD WITH
ROSE BYRNE
The Aussie star of Bridesmaids and Bad Neighbours has carved out a successful career in comedies,
but admits 90 per cent of her fan mail is still about her role in Star Wars: Episode II Attack of the Clones

Where have you just come back from? Describe a childhood-holiday memory heaven. So that drive, and every highway,
I was in Los Angeles for a week, and My dads a betting man, and when I freeway and corner to get there is the
although it took a while, Ive grown was eight or nine, he had a big win and one I do most often.
to like that city. Ive been at home in took me and my three siblings around
New York with my baby a lot recently, the world, and all through Europe. It First holiday without your parents?
so it was nice to have a change of was autumn and I was drinking hot A trip to Woodford Folk Festival in
scenery. Plus my brother and best friend chocolate by the Champs-Elyses in Queensland. My friends and I would
both live in LA, and we got to spend Paris it was so romantic. I remember drive up in a van and camp out, even
plenty of time with them. very vividly how dream-like that was. though it was hotter than the sun.
There were bands playing, face-painting,
Where have you felt happiest? The smartest hotel youve stayed in? yoga, you name it really hippy and
New York City. Its not for everyone; The Ritz in Paris. It was another trip alternative. I was lucky; my parents
its full of adrenalin and a bit of a we took as a family. Dad had another trusted me to be reasonably sensible.
clusterfuck, but I still love it. I first win when I was 18 and took us travelling
visited when I was 18, then returned again thats his thing. I went there for What do you pack rst?
to study when I was 20, and Ive been a drink before it closed for refurbishment If its summer, a floral sundress; in winter,
living here since I was 28. and it was just as amazing. some good, thick cashmere sweaters.

Name a place thats lived up to the hype Name a great little place you know Sightseeing or sun lounger?
I went to Angkor Wat in Cambodia Im a big coffee drinker, so I always try Im not a huge fan of lying about in
about 10 years ago, and it was unusual, to find the best spots to get a good cup, the sun, I get overheated very quickly,
breathtaking, wild, wonderful, stunning: which is very un-Australian of me. Im
all the clichs are true. If youre ever NEW YORK CITY ISNT more likely to get out and about and
anywhere near it, you should go thats have a look around.
what I tell everyone. FOR EVERYONE.
ITS FULL OF ADRENALIN Where would you never go back to?
And one that least lived up to the hype Key West in Florida. I think there are
Las Vegas. That place sucks. I cant AND A CLUSTERFUCK, parts that are nice, but unfortunately I
stand it. I had to go last year for an event. BUT I STILL LOVE IT went to the really touristy area, which
I was kind of excited because I hadnt is not my cup of tea. Tacky theme bars
been for years, and I thought a couple wherever I am. I spent three months in and people trying to flog T-shirts and
of nights there would be fun. But as Budapest and found a great caf called, hats. Its become a Disney-fied version
soon as I landed, I just could not wait of all things, My Little Melbourne. It does of itself and was really disappointing.
to get out. The hotel was seedy, the food brilliant breakfasts too.
was dreadful, the service was terrible Ever taken anything from a hotel room?
It wasnt fun at all. I lost my heart in... Sometimes I take all the shampoo and
PHOTOGRAPH: BEN MORRIS/TRUNK ARCHIVE

India, on a camel ride in Jaisalmer, conditioners, especially if theyre by fancy


Which is your favourite city? watching the sun set. It was incredible. labels such as Ren or Kiehls, but thats
No doubt in my mind: Sydney. There Even if the animal was pretty weird, not so bad. Im such a goodie-goodie.
are the beaches, its easy to get around, the experience was extraordinary.
the food is wonderful and the people are What is your most-used foreign phrase?
so chilled out. Every time I go back I feel What is your road most travelled? Coo, which is a Spanish swear word.
overwhelmed with gratitude that I can We have a house at Seal Rocks, a
call it home. This year, Im staying for beautiful seaside town a three-hour-drive Rose Byrne was speaking to Francesca
three months because Im doing a play north of Sydney. I used to go there when Babb. She stars in Bad Neighbours 2,
at the Sydney Theatre Company, which I was growing up its a gorgeous pocket which is out on 6 May, and X-Men:
is right on the harbour. I cant wait. of untouched coastline, a real slice of Apocalypse, out on 19 May

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 119


IN BRITAIN

Clockwise from above: the main beach at


Southwold, and painted houses in the town;
the Martello Tower at Orford Ness, with its
Antony Gormley sculpture; Walberswicks
ferry hut. Opposite, boogie boards at Southwold

120 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


OUR SERIES OF UK INSIDER
GUIDES CONTINUES WITH...

THE SUFFOLK COAST BY FRANCESCA SYZ. PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALI ALLEN

As someone whose earliest memory of the English seaside is sitting in the back seat of the family Triumph as it crawled along the
Brighton seafront in a hot, sticky traic jam, the Sufolk coast has a special place in my heart. Because in Sufolk that would never
happen. There isnt a coast road. Nature hasnt allowed it. Instead, theres the inland A12, which weaves its way through shadowy forests,
skirting great swathes of purple heather and yellow gorse-smothered heath and marshland. The bit between Southwold and Aldeburgh
is loveliest because of all its extremes: the picket-fenced perfection of Southwold; the low-key charm of Walberswick, where various
Freuds (Esther, Emma) have lived for years, with its wind-whipped cottages and wide sandy beach; and Dunwich, a tiny village on a vast
stretch of shingle, which was once a major port before gradually being washed away by the sea. Dingle Marshes and Dunwich Forest are
to the north, and going south skipping Sizewell is Thorpeness, a fantasy holiday village built by a Scottish barrister in 1910. Further
along theres bookish, ruggedly charming Aldeburgh, with its literary, arts and food festivals and some of the freshest sh and chips on
the planet. Get the most out of all of it by abandoning the car and walking or cycling. And, when in Walberswick, rowing or get rowed by
Dani Church, whose family has been ofering this low- shuttle service across the Blythe estuary since the 1800s.
From left: Southwold Pier signage;
grassland near Walberswick; Two
Magpies Bakery in Southwold; on
the beach at Aldeburgh

WHERE The Adnams Brewery Miss it and live a life of regret. Also peaceful contrast, take the seafront path
TO EAT is integral to life in try the Blythburgh pork and black- to the Sailors Reading Room for a flick
& DRINK Southwold (beer has pudding Scotch egg. through the papers. The Electric Picture
been brewed on site For original fish dishes, the Seafood Palace aims to recreate the cinema-going
since 1345) and its malty whiffs waft & Grill restaurant at Aldeburghs experience of the 1950s, with usherettes,
down the streets. Walk into any pub Brudenell Hotel is run by Mark Ruffalo- a commissionaire on the door, and the
and chances are Adnams owns it for lookalike Tyler Torrance, a gregarious national anthem playing at the end.
a pint of Ghost Ship ale in the cosiest Canadian who trained at The Fat Duck Crabbing is huge in Walberswick
setting, the old-school Lord Nelson and can often be found down at the (though avoid the weekend of the annual
is a short scamper from the beach. For fishermens huts on the beach gauging the British Open Crabbing Championships,
excellent fish and chips (or venison days finest ingredients. Buying haddock cancelled twice in recent years due to
sausage and herby mashed potato), and chips from Aldeburgh Fish and Chip overcrowding). All you need is a bucket,
book a table at The Crown Hotel on Shop then sitting on the sea wall to eat line, cooked bacon for bait and a good
the High Street. Two Magpies Bakery, it like a teenager is a seminal Suffolk spot on the bridge over the creek. Youll
a few doors down, is the place for great experience. Then and only then is it be pulling them out hand over fist a
coffee, sandwiches to take to the beach OK to go to sibling the Golden Galleon surprisingly exhilarating experience.
and just-baked loaves of sensational for a grown-up supper at the upstairs At Dunwich, after that Scotch egg in
sourdough. Saturday is pizza night here: restaurant, the Upper Deck. The Ship, pop next door to the museum
Cheesus H Crust, a crispy and delicious to learn more about the seat of the first
base laced with locally smoked ham, WHAT The Adnams Brewery tour, bishop of East Anglia, which in 1086 was
organic honey and rocket, is a bestseller. TO SEE often led by local characters one of the 10 largest towns in England,
If youre heading to Walberswick from & DO such as Jane Leonard, a with at least six churches and monasteries.
Southwold, slurp up some oysters from retired ballerina is the You can then walk along the clifftop
one of the quayside shacks before coolest introduction to Southwold, and the to the ruins of Greyfriars, a Franciscan
hopping on the ferry. Once across the view from the top is the best in town. monastery and one of the few buildings to
water, The Anchor is reliable for good Stroll past the candy-coloured beach huts survive. Aldeburgh Museum is housed in
pub grub as well as creative wine and to Southwold Pier, pick up locally churned Moot Hall, which was once in the centre
beer matching. Ive got three words to Suffolk Meadow Ice Cream and duck of town, but coastal erosion means its
say about old smugglers haunt The Ship into the Under the Pier Show, the worlds now right on the beach. In June theres
at Dunwich. Sticky. Toffee. Pudding. most eccentric amusement arcade. For a the Aldeburgh Festival, the renowned

122 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


IN BRITAIN

arts and music jamboree launched by reading from the friendly Aldeburgh floating in the sea. The terrace is great
Benjamin Britten in 1948, although it now Bookshop on the High Street. for an early seafood supper in the fading
mostly takes place just inland at Snape Should the desire to buy a pair of light of a warm summers day. Or
Maltings. The Aldeburgh Food and Drink J Brand jeans or an Ilse Jacobsen raincoat book one of a clutch of uniquely brilliant
Festival in September showcases more outweigh the need to go crabbing, Collen rentals, such as the Martello Tower at
than 90 producers. and Clare on Southwolds Market Place is the foot of the Orford Ness peninsula
The stroll up the beach to Thorpeness like a mini-Fenwick. As well as ale, Adnams (landmarkstrust.org.uk; four nights from
takes about 40 minutes from Aldeburgh, produces award-winning gins infused with 552), the most northerly of the defence
passing the giant stainless-steel scallop 13 botanicals and delicious, butterscotchy towers built to keep out Napoleon, now
by Suffolk-born artist Maggi Hambling vodkas, which make nice presents to take a two-bedroom weekend bolthole.
that fans out from the sand. Once there, home. Stop off at the Thorpeness Village In Thorpeness, clapboard beach house
hire a dinghy and paddle to one of the Store for really amazing homemade Valetta (bestofsuffolk.co.uk; from 864
little islands on the Meare lake for a sausage rolls, tender Suffolk ham thats per week) sits right on the sand, while
picnic, just as its creator, Glencairn Stuart been glazed on the premises and Olgas the five-bedroom House in the Clouds
Ogilvie, intended. jams and fudge. You cant spend a weekend (houseintheclouds.co.uk; from 1,070 for
in Suffolk without picking up a few two nights) inhabits a 1920s water tower.
WHERE Buying fresh fish right random antiques (a door knob shaped At Dunwich, check into pretty pub-
TO from one of the leather- like a soldier, a Victorian tablecloth, with-rooms The Ship (shipatdunwich.
SHOP skinned fishermen on the absolutely anything made of that white co.uk; doubles from 115) or rent the
beach is one of the great and blue enamel). Thorpeness Emporium three-bed 1 Church Cottages (dunwich
pleasures of Aldeburgh. For just-cooked will provide all the opportunities you cottage.com; from 342 for three nights).
lobster wrapped in newspaper, shell need, as will Tinkers of Walberswick. An hours walk up the beach is The Old
and claws already cracked for easy access, Fishermans Hut (suffolk-secrets.co.uk;
find Dean Fryer, whose hut is opposite WHERE Its worth shelling out from 335 per week) for a quintessential
the White Lion Hotel. For other TO for a sea-facing room at Walberswick weekend. To be in the
essentials, theres Aldeburgh Market STAY Aldeburghs beachfront thick of it in Southwold, check into
(a deli and caf championing regional Brudenell Hotel (brudenell a room at The Crown Hotel (adnams.
produce) which, after moving location hotel.co.uk; doubles from 130) the co.uk; doubles from 185).
several times, has now found its happy higher the better, for the thrill of lying in For more information, visit thesuffolk
place on the High Street. Pick up holiday bed with the curtains-open feeling of coast.co.uk and suffolkcoastandheaths.org
hot property
The Myconian Collection is a family-run portfolio of
gorgeous hotels on Mykonos. The most recent addition
to its now seven-strong collection, is the super-cool,
design-led Avaton

world-class holiday destination, Mykonos is location, location, location

A famous for its pearl-white villages, beautiful


beaches, deep blue sea, vibrant nightlife and
cosmopolitan flair. A magnet for celebrities,
families and couples from around the world, this
beautiful island continues to make its mark on the
A place of amazing beauty suspended between sky,
earth and sea, Avaton seems miraculously to grow out
of the bare rock above Elia Beach, as if formed in
equal measure by nature and man. The 360-degree
luxury travel scene. views from the pool deck are of an infinite blue that
seamlessly merges sea and sky. During the day, the
one family, one collection sun throws its light across this breathtaking vista,
it with Korali, Kyma and Kalypso, collectively creating an ever-changing spectacle; and at nightfall,
Deeply embedded in the islands hospitality industry known as K-Hotels, over the next six years. from Avatons vantage point high on the hillside, it is
is the fabulous Myconian Collection, a family-owned Pre-empting the growing demand for luxury, the as if the sky is closer and the stars shine brighter.
portfolio that has several Relais & Chteaux and Daktylides family went on to build The Ambassador
Leading Hotels of the World accolades to its name, in 1992 the islands first five-star property. The Much more than a luxury beach resort, Avaton has
over and above its wealth of tradition. In 1979, collection continued to expand with the Royal a feel that is evocative and emotive. Fresh and
George Daktylides built the 25-room Kohili Myconian, Imperial, Villas, Utopia and most contemporary, each room, suite and villa has been
becoming the islands third hotelier and followed recently, the avant-garde Avaton beach resort. designed in perfect harmony with its natural
T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

environment, using reams of stone and timber. treatments from the likes of Elemis, St Barth, and
Theres a Greek authenticity (vintage black-and- Kerstin Florian. Whether you plump for a chilled-out
white photographs of island life line the white- body massage, an Elemis facial, the Lavender
washed corridors) but the overall vibe is young, hip Turkish Salt Scrub, Exotic Frangipani Body Wrap
and luxe. Splashes of red, layers of black and design- or Lime and Ginger Salt Glow, all luxurious
forward details are interwoven throughout. treatments are individually tailored. There are also
Clockwise from this
exceptional thalassotherapy facilities including
image: A beautifully
designed suite with
a chef for all seasons four pools of varying temperature and salinity,
sea view; fine dining; a steam bath and, for anyone who feels the need to
poolside; the spa; The food at Avaton is seasonal and superb. Breakfasts work out, a gym. A tranquil setting completes the
bedroom with a sea are veritable banquets of Greek yoghurt, wild honey, top-to-toe bliss-out.
view; poolside at fresh fruit and pastries. Lunches (indoor or al fresco
night. All at the by the pool) are inspired by organic ingredients and at your service
Myconian Avaton locally sourced produce, all enjoyed to striking views
of Elia Beach and the sparkling Aegean. The evening Throughout the Myconian Collection, the personal
menus are superlative, ranging from creative service is flawless and always utterly genuine. This
interpretations of traditional local fare to is Greek hospitality at its very best. Anything can be
sophisticated gourmet dishes, complimented by an organised from butler service, boat excursions and
exceptional local and international wine list. horse riding to in-house chefs, daily grocery
deliveries and tailor-made romantic dinners. Nothing
r&r is ever too much trouble.

The spa is state-of-the-art, a luxurious haven that


invigorates the body, enlivens the senses and soothes For further information visit
the mind. The menu features a blissful array of myconiancollection.gr

Reader offer
Cond Nast Traveller readers can
enjoy a 100 spa credit per room per
stay, complimentary local wine, one
five-course Greek dinner (excluding
drinks), one 45-minute
thalassotherapy treatment per
person per stay and airport/port
transfers. To book, please email
sales@myconiancollection.gr
quoting condenastmc16. Offer is
valid for a minimum of five nights
for stays from 1 May to 30 October
2016 (excluding August).
ON SALE NOW
FLAVOUR HUNTER
Food and drink ixes from Paris Japan Mexico Mississippi Hawaii
EDITED BY FIONA KERR & TABITHA JOYCE

TABLE TO BOOK
Mexicos dippiest street-food snack
is being taken to another level
Its not as if El Moro needs to change: its homemade
churros and hot chocolate have been a Mexico City
favourite since 1935, when Spanish owner Francisco
Iriarte set up shop in Centro Histrico. The original
store is still open all day and night, but now theres a
chic new ofshoot in the creative district of Colonia
Cuauhtmoc. Geometric patterns on the walls reect
the contemporary energy of a neighbourhood that
has undergone rapid transformation in recent years.
Artists and architects stop by for sweet batons of
crispy dough dusted in cinnamon sugar and served with
hot dipping chocolate. Order the Consuelo, the latest
twist on a classic: ice cream sandwiched between two
tight spirals of churros. SCARLETT LINDEMAN
elmoro.mx. Consuelos from about 2
PHOTOGRAPH: MORITZ BERNOULLY

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 127


Photograph by David Loftus
THIS MONTHS RECIPE
To make tempura courgette owers, pour
vegetable or groundnut oil into a deep
saucepan so it lls no more than half, and
heat. For actual frying, I like a combination of
courgette flowers, sage leaves and green
beans. In a large bowl mix 50g cornflour with
100g self-raising flour and a pinch of salt.
At the last minute, slowly add about 175ml
sparkling water, stirring with chopsticks to a
coating consistency. Test the oil with a dollop
of batter: if it fries quickly and turns golden, its
ready to cook. Dip the fresh ingredients in the
mix, fry briey in batches until crisp, then remove
with a slotted spoon onto kitchen towels. Season
with sea salt and sprinkle with edible flowers.
FLAVOUR HUNTER

WORLD ON A PLATE
TEMPURA

EAT ME DRINK ME
By Joanna Weinberg By Malcolm Gluck
It is a truth universally acknowledged that everyone loves deep- There is only one wine for tempura if one plays by national rules.
fried food. The Americans fry their chicken and sometimes It isnt saki rice wine that is brewed almost like beer which
their turkeys (yes, whole). The Greeks, squid; the Chinese, to my mind, at almost 20 per cent ABV, is too alcoholic for
dumplings; the Scots, Mars bars. The smartest restaurants (a the delicacy of the courgette flower here. But it is Japanese. Its
culture all of their own), ice cream. And the Japanese? Well, made from the white Koshu grape, native to Japan for donkeys
they fry food with an elegance no one else can touch. years. The most interesting examples are mostly available in
Historically, though, Japan was one of the few countries Japanese restaurants but Marks & Spencer in some ways more
without a culture of deep-frying. It wasnt until the 16th century adventurous than the smallest local wine shop run by a hairy
that Portuguese missionaries introduced it to the port of Nagasaki, nerd in sandals has an excellent specimen called Sol Lucet.
from where it quickly spread. The fritters, stuffed with minced Yes, it sounds like Manchester Uniteds latest signing, but
vegetables and fish, were originally made during Lent ad I assure you this is a crisp, elegant table wine with a nod to
tempora cuaresma (hence the name) when Christian traditions northern Italy in style and flavour. I suppose Pinot Grigio is the
forbade eating meat. Its said the great shogun Tokugawa easiest comparison to make but it has a subtle peachy hint, which
Ieyasu loved tempura so much he died of over-indulging in it. gives it a levity to balance its strait-laced citrussiness. There
One of the defining characteristics of Japanese cooking is
the inclination to respect food in its natural state. By the 18th ONLY ONE WINE WORKS HERE IF YOU
century, Japanese chefs were experimenting with frying vegetables PLAY BY NATIONAL RULES, MADE
and fish whole, using the batter to protect the ingredients
within; thus taking something utterly foreign and making it FROM A GRAPE NATIVE TO JAPAN
Japanese. And, of course, better. Tempura as we know it was born. may be branches of M&S with it on their shelves but its easiest
The batter is the key made with flour, baking powder and to go online (marksandspencer.com/wine) and order a case of
sparkling water, barely stirred together. Lumps are important, six for 78 (working out at 13 a bottle for the 2013 vintage).
exploding as they hit the hot oil to give the tempura its Perhaps, however, like me, you care not one whit for playing
characteristic misshapen appearance. In fact, chopsticks make by the rules and would prefer to drink a quirkier white wine
the ideal mixing tool as they ensure it is not over-beaten. with your tempura-battered ingredients. Or even, shall we dare
Like so much on the global food scene, tempura can leap to suggest it, a red? Let us deal with the white first. It is Weingut
across continents and straddle cultures without a wobble. One Rabls 2015 Grner Veltliner Langenlois and it is scrumptious,
of the most unlikely places I ate it was in a little beach shack in superbly balanced, demure yet not tart, hinting at stone-fruit
but with an overall finesse that is typical of the Austrian Grner
ITS SAID A GREAT JAPANESE Veltliner grape, so underrated yet so exquisite with the right
SHOGUN LOVED TEMPURA SO MUCH food. It is available for just a tenner from Corking Wines
(corkingwines.co.uk) of Yorkshire, which will deliver.
HE DIED OF OVER-INDULGING IN IT And now to our red: Vigneti del Vulture Aglianico Piano
Mexico, the fish so fresh it still tasted of the sea a small step, del Cerro 2011. Not a wine for the faint-hearted or indeed the
yet a world away from Britains salt-and-vinegared fish and chips. easily tongue-tied or parents of young children this is about
Arguably, almost anything can be tempura-ed, from a cheese as sexy as red wine can get without being obscene. Its X-rated
toastie (try it) to, more elegantly, herbs and edible flowers. The tannins, juicy as cherry liqueur, are so fresh and biting they make
Italians have a wonderful way with the first courgettes of the the wine perfect with the batter without overwhelming the
year, no bigger than a little finger, still attached to their blooms. vegetables. This wine pours as opaque as crimson tar, and coats
Sage is the herb to turn to first, its sharpness dulled into a the teeth in similar fashion. The drinkers mouth, therefore, after
mellow fragrance by frying. Here is a recipe for my favourite just one gulp and gargle, will turn terrifyingly black-fanged. So
combination of the two. The classic dipping sauce for tempura its not a good idea to experience the wine with infants in the
is tentsuyu. To make this, stir together three parts dashi with one room as they may, if you smile at them, see you as some kind of
part mirin and one part soy sauce, and grate in a little daikon vampire. Hennings Wine (henningswine.co.uk), which stocks
radish. Or just scatter the freshly battered flowers with sea salt this vivacious southern-Italian beauty, has several shops in West
and eat as quickly as possible with your fingers a less Japanese Sussex but will also deliver and a single bottle will set you back
approach but, as with much in the kitchen, enthusiasm is all. 23. Its one hell of a mouthful, whichever way you look at it.

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 129


FLAVOUR HUNTER
CHEFS SECRET SUPPLIES

JASON ATHERTON
The rst British chef to complete an internship at El Bulli now has 16 restaurants of his own, including Table No 1
in Shanghai and Londons Pollen Street Social. Here are some of the kitchen essentials hes found along the way

LANGOUSTINES FROM THE ISLE OF MULL JAM FROM MEGEVE


Im lucky enough to have eaten in some of the best restaurants on the Every year we go skiing with the children and stay at Flocons de Sel. The chef
planet and Id stake my life on the fact that the nest shellsh comes out there, Emmanuel Renaut, makes amazing contures from blueberries and
of Scotland. When Im cooking at home I like to keep things simple blackberries he picks in the foothills of Mont Blanc. He lets me have some
and just have these prawns lightly grilled with seaweed butter. to take home which I spread on sourdough toast with good butter.

TANDUAY RUM FROM THE PHILIPPINES DASSAI 23 SAKE FROM JAPAN


My wife is Filipina so we visit quite a bit. This isnt an expensive rum but its Cheap sake the kind you have warm isnt for me. I was always more
only made there and not really exported. I love it and always smuggle a of a wine or beer guy. But that was before I was introduced to Dassai 23,
few bottles back because my bartenders get pretty excited about it too. which is incredibly smooth. Now I serve it in all my restaurants.

EGGS FROM TUSCANY A RICE POT FROM THE PHILIPPINES


Paolo Parisi is an egg celebrity and all the top cooks in Italy come to him. Everyone uses the electric ones and theyre fantastic but I bought an antique
Last year I took my chefs to his farm outside Pisa. Each Leghorn hen has bamboo model from a market in Carcar. I made the seller an ofer he
its own bed and is fed on goats milk the eggs have these vivid orange couldnt refuse. The rice doesnt really taste diferent, the pot is just beautiful.
yolks and truly are sensational.
KNIVES FROM KYOTO
VINTAGE ICE SHAVER FROM TOKYO These are handmade by folding the steel at least 75 times so you get a
Ice shavers are very hard to come by. I found mine in Tsukiji market its tiger-skin efect. It also makes them pretty much unbreakable. Theyre
about 60 years old and has a cool picture of Mount Fuji on the side. I use brilliant for everything from sh prep to slicing sashimi.
it to make halo-halo, a Filipino dessert which you dress with diferent
syrups such as coconut milk and sprinkle with diced jellies. Jasons latest restaurant Sosharu is now open in London (sosharulondon.com)

PHOTOGRAPH: CAMERA PRESS

130 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


T RAVELLER AD VERT ISEM EN T FEAT U RE

Clockwise from this image:


Terrace, Grand Velas
Riviera Maya Grand Class
Suite; the spa; beachside.
All at Grand Velas
Riviera Maya

luxury by design
Take the whole family for sun and plenty of fun at the fabulous
Grand Velas Riviera Maya. Nestled next to the Yucatn jungle,
WKLVYHVWDUUHWUHDWZLWKDXQLTXHO\0H[LFDQDYRXUKDVLWVRZQ
LPPDFXODWHZKLWHVDQGEHDFKIULQJHGE\SDOPWUHHV'UHDP\

T
he soft white sands of Mexicos Yucatn 16+. Each suite is adorned with local, Mexican art
Peninsula are home to the sumptuous Grand and all have their own private plunge pool, spacious
Velas Riviera Maya, a sophisticated, exclusive, balcony with stunning views of the Caribbean Sea
all-suite resort surrounded by lush tropical jungle and enough mod cons to keep the most tech-
and elegantly landscaped gardens. The grand vision obsessed teen happy.
of two brothers, Grand Velas anticipates the upmarket
travellers every wish and gives it a unique Mexican spa and away
twist. The impeccably thought-out design means that
every age can relax in comfort and seclusion, while the There are no less than eight restaurants to choose
resorts all-inclusive philosophy means everything is from, serving everything from Mexican fine-dining
there for guests to explore. There are three distinct, to French gourmet fare, and within Grand Class are
beautifully designed suite options. If youre travelling three elegant, adults-only destination restaurants
as a couple or with older teenagers, their Grand Class including the formal French Piaf, Cocina de Autor
suites are exclusively dedicated to adults and children serving contemporary and original cuisine inspired
by local gastronomy, and the stylish Bistro. And its
not just the food that visitors return for. Grand
Velas award-winning, 27,000 square metre spa is
the ultimate retreat for some blissful, soothing
relaxation. Built over an ancient cenote (natural
well), its an opulent setting adorned with native
artwork where youll find avant-garde treatments
that use ancient Mexican healing traditions to relax For more information or to book, please visit:
tensions, restore your balance and imbue a sense of s#ARRIER CARRIERCOUKORCALL
harmony. Mayan jade, coffee and chocolate oil are s"RITISH!IRWAYS(OLIDAYS BACOMGRANDVELAS 
just some of the ingredients used in the treatments, ORCALL
all of which start with their signature Hydrotherapy
Water Journey an hour-long ritual designed
around seven hydrotherapy fixtures. If its peace and
serenity in a truly sophisticated setting that you and
your family are searching for, then look no further.
FLAVOUR HUNTER

TASTE BUZZ
POKE
The craze
The Japanese used to have the market cornered
for fashionable raw fish. But then came the
wave of Peruvian ceviche. And now, the tide
has turned to the shores of Hawaii with pok:
a staple that traditionally mixes chopped
ahi tuna with limu (seaweed) and ground
kakui nuts, served on rice or greens.

Try IT
The trend first swept across the Pacific to
LA, with queues spilling out of Sweetn Pok
for its buildable bowls (add everything from
kelp noodles and kale to tropical fruit). New
Yorks freshest lunch spot is Wisesh Pok,
a one-stop shop dishing up classic (order
the West Swell) or eat-clean variations (The
Chelsea with tofu and courgette noodles).
Theres a pok menu at POND Dalston in
East London one option served on
a crispy tortilla. And just-opened Pacific
Rim restaurant Black Roe in Mayfair has a
dedicated pok bar. CHLOE SACHDEV

Mississippi-born Brad McDonald grew up cooking wild game


with his father and baking with his mother. Hes won rave
reviews for his take on dishes from the American South at The
Lockhart and Shotgun in London. Here are his top BBQ tips

CHOOSE YOUR LOGS WISELY


Smoked meats have sustained Southern culture for centuries; our barbecues
are all about slow cooking. Wherever possible use kiln-dried, seasoned
whole-wood logs or large chunks to give that kiss of smoke to the avour. HOW TO. . .

PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN FINKE; ALAN GASTELUM/IMAGEBRIEF.COM; BOBBI LIN


Avoid wood chips, which will produce an acrid, overpowering layer of soot.

MASSAGE THE MEAT


Enhance your meat with a rub. Keep it classy: always start with salt and
sugar, then put complementary ingredients together such as beef
and cofee, pork and paprika, lamb with curry spices.
BBQ like a southerner
BALANCE FIRE AND WATER
Moisture is the key to getting great smoke penetration (that pink ring around
the edge). Keep a pan of water inside the smoker, between the re and the
meat. Spray the latter periodically with cider vinegar and season.

WRAP IT UP
The smoke will only get so far into the joint, so after a few hours, cover it in
butchers paper to nish the cooking and stop it from drying out.

GET A HI-TECH THERMOMETER


Theres a ne line between meat thats melting and moist, and meat thats
just tender in your mouth but sucks your palate dry. No amount of sauce
can cure that. Do your best to get a spot-on temperature of 90/91C.
Deep South by Brad McDonald is published on 2 June (Quadrille, 25)
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EVENTS

INVITES YOU TO COME

COCKTAIL FORAGING WITH THE BOTANIST


Join an urban foraging expedition with the team from The Botanist, one of the UKs top
artisanal gins, followed by cocktail-making using your finds at Londons Sager + Wilde Restaurant.
Made on the Isle of Islay, The Botanist Gin is slowly distilled using 22 local botanicals
including lemon balm and mugwort. Professional forager John Renton and brand ambassador
Abigail Clephane will lead a small group on a walking tour around East London parkland before
returning to Sager + Wilde for foraged canaps and a hands-on cocktail masterclass with
award-winning mixologist Marcis Dzelzainis. Each guest will receive a Botanist goodie bag.

FORAGING TIPS FROM ABIGAIL CLEPHANE


You can forage anywhere: I spot edibles all the time, even when just walking down the street
O

OThere is no set season: in summer lavours are more loral; in winter, more bitter. Look out for mushrooms in autumn

OMake sure you have clearly identiied your inds some innocent-looking crops can be deadly

OGarden herbs are great with gin and tonic. Edible lowers such as nasturtiums add heat and vibrant colour

OKeep an eye out for tropical-style botanicals: not many people know that gorse tastes like coconut

INVITATION TO THE EVENT


WHEN: 10AM2PM SATURDAY 11 JUNE OR SUNDAY 12 JUNE
WHERE: SAGER + WILDE RESTAURANT & BETHNAL GREEN PARKS
250 PARADISE ROW, LONDON E2 9LE (SAGERANDWILDE.COM)

BOOK NOW
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX FARNUM/AUGUST

CNTRAVELLER-COCKTAIL-FORAGING.EVENTBRITE.CO.UK
Tickets are priced 40 and include a foraging session followed by a cocktail masterclass and canaps, with a goodie
bag to take home. There are 12 tickets available for each day. For more information on The Botanist, visit thebotanist.com

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134 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


FLAVOUR HUNTER
Eat the street

The Canal Saint-Martin area of Pariss 10th arrondissement has been the epicentre of the citys creative classes
for nearly a decade. Now the latest wave of cool openings has washed over once-sleepy rue des Vinaigriers

9AM coffee
Caf Craft, No 24
Co-working is still a relatively new concept in the
French capital, but this graphic, monochromatic space
is where MacBook-toting freelancers start their day over
espressos made with beans from Parisian roasters Lomi.
Buy a cup or pay by the hour for access to Wi-Fi and
a seat at the communal table. cafe-craft.com

10AM Breakfast
Libert, No 39
Atop the marble counter of this brilliant bakery, right, from
master pastry chef Benot Castel are delicate tarts and
jewel-like fancies. Their prettiness contrasts with the raw
interiors. Opt for perfect madeleines or go for full-on
indulgence with Castels famous tarte la crme.
libertepatisserieboulangerie.com

12.30PM LUNCH
The Sunken Chip, No 39
How do Parisians do sh and chips? In this trendy
metro-tiled restaurant with line-caught haddock or
coley from Saint-Jean-de-Luz and thick, hand-cut,
double-cooked frites. If youre not married to
tradition, swap the classic for a hake burger or
monksh nuggets coated in panko breadcrumbs,
along with a local craft beer. thesunkenchip.com

3PM super snack


Sol Semilla, No 23
Call them hippies or early adopters, but the owners of
this vegan canteen and shop have been turning out
antioxidant-rich superfoods such as aai, Klamath algae
and maca powder since opening in 2007. Pop into
the cheery turquoise-fronted store for kale chips or
raw cacao to munch on. sol-semilla.fr

6PM Aperitif
Piccoli Cugini, No 34
The areas go-to pizza joint doubles as a pre-dinner spot
for a turned-out crowd with bigger plans. Join them in
sipping spritzes and Italian wines while tucking into
plates of burrata and Parma ham. piccoli-cugini.fr

8PM DINNER & drinks


Gravity Bar, No 44
PHOTOGRAPH: HERVE GOLUZA

The curving wooden interiors of this new hangout take


their inspiration from surng and skateboarding, but
its the serious cocktails and market-driven menu that
give the greater thrills. Unusual avours are the draw here;
try the Black Popeye, shaken with Chairmans Reserve
rum, amaro, bitters and absinthe. The dishes are no less
imaginative, including fried whelks and duck tartare.
+33 6 98 54 92 49 LINDSEY TRAMUTA

June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 135


EVENTS

PRESENTS
travellers tales

Michael Portillos railway journeys


Come and meet Michael Portillo in conversation with Cond
Nast Traveller. The politician turned TV star whose fascination
with railways has led to a serious media career talks to our Mens
Editor David Annand. The Travellers Tales series gives you access
to behind-the-scenes stories from some of the worlds most

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; KRIS MACCOTTA; THE TIMES/NEWS SYNDICATION


interesting travellers in an intimate setting. This, our third event,
will take place at the wonderfully eccentric Mr Foggs Residence
in Mayfair. The evenings are in association with Elegant Resorts,
one of the UKs leading luxury tour operators. Its team provides
exceptional client service through exclusive itineraries and
experiences at the inest hotels, villas and resorts from North
America and Europe to the Caribbean and Australasia.

ABOUT MICHAEL PORTILLO: Having dabbled in journalism while still an MP, the former deputy leader of
the Conservative Party left politics in 2005. His love for train travel led to his hit BBC series Great British
Railway Journeys, for which he criss-crossed the UK with a 1913 Bradshaws Guide looking at how towns had
changed since it was written. Next he visited Europe in Great Continental Railway Journeys, and in his latest
adventure, which aired in January, he used a 1879 copy of Appletons General Guide to the US railroads
to explore how the 19th-century train network helped the country grow into an international superpower.

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136 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


INVITATION TO THE TALK
WHEN: 68PM MONDAY 18 JULY 2016
WHERE: MR FOGGS RESIDENCE
15 BRUTON LANE, LONDON W1J 6JD. MR-FOGGS.COM

BOOK NOW
TRAVELLERS-TALES.EVENTBRITE.CO.UK
Tickets are 45 and include a Hudson Whiskey cocktail, a glass of wine or beer, canaps and a goodie bag.

FOLLOW MICHAEL PORTILLO ACROSS AMERICA WITH ELEGANT RESORTS


Two special Traveller offers: Elegant Resorts (+44 1244 897543; elegantresorts.co.uk) can help you kick of your own Great American Railroad
Journey in style in New York with two exclusive deals. Stay at The Ritz-Carlton, Central Park for four nights B&B from 2,645 per person. Valid from 15
June to 7 September 2016. Or check in at The New York Edition for three nights B&B from 1,875 per person. Valid from 1 July to 5 September 2016.
Quote NYC. Both packages include economy lights, private transfers and a city tour. Elegant Resorts can also help you plan your cross-country train
trip, leaving from one of Manhattans iconic stations to take the scenic route through New England to Boston or venturing west to Washington DC.

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W
OST
WANTED
Get that glow...

WRIST
ESSENTIAL

SALT
Resort wear shop Salt has
SND launched a new multi-brand
Hydrating Face Spray, boutique on Walton Street. Mara
24, sondskin.com Hofman, Lace Up Side One
Piece in Rainbow Roll, 200,
saltresortwear.com

La D de Dior Satine 19mm watch,


ST TROPEZ steel with diamonds and mother
Gradual Tan Tinted Body of pearl dial, 3,500, dior.com
Lotion, 15,
sttropeztan.co.uk

SUMMER TAKEOVER
Tune in to Cond Nast Traveller's sunshine state of mind with some of
the latest experiences, places to stay and style and beauty picks
TWO CHEF TREAT
Chefs Alain Ducasse and Tom Kerridge Dr Sebagh Supreme Day Cream,
are collaborating on a one-off, exclusive 145, drsebagh.com
Sunday lunch experience at the
Hand & Flowers in Marlow.
Taking place on 3 July, the fab feast will WELLBEING
THIS WORKS involve a four-course menu comprising
WONDERS
Perfect Legs Sculpt & Shine, alternate dishes prepared by both chefs.
Tickets are 80 and include a glass of EDIT...
28, thisworks.com sydre from Eric Bordelet.
thehandandowers.co.uk
Vichy
Idal Soleil
Double Usage
After-Sun, 13,
INDEED LABS boots.com The Braun Silk-Expert IPL
Vitamin C24, continually adapts to your skin tone
24.99, boots.com during use for safe, long-lasting hair
removal, 399.99, boots.com
GIDDY UP
In-between holidays and in need of entertainment?
The Investec Derby is the Worlds Greatest Flat Race
and this year it has announced Eleanor Tomlinson
as its Ambassador. Ladies Day tickets from 13.50,
Derby Day from 15 epsomderby.co.uk

OUR MAN
ON THE GROUND
Samsonite
Cosmolite, 339,
samsonite.com
Aubade moulded plunge
coconut grove bikini top
88.95 and coconut grove,
Brazilian brief, 48.95,
rigbyandpeller.com Sisley Phyto Touch Illusion
dt, 66.50, sisley-paris.co.uk

from CAF ROYAL


HEAD
CONCIERGE
KARIM BERNICHI
Tinkerbell
What defines Caf Royal?
espadrille, 155, A CASEFUL OF The harmony created out of
russellandbromley. poolside chic tension, where the old meets the
co.uk
new. Its a property beautifully
Lapis Celestial Fine composed, inspired by the artistic
Biography bracelet, 695, heritage of its building and
astleyclarke.com cultural iconic location.
Vertu V What are you most excited
Headphones, about for the hotel in 2016?
470, vertu.com The new inspirational talent in our
team, from executive pastry chef
Sarah Barber to MD Thomas Kochs.
What is your favourite cocktail?
Without a doubt its the Revolver
Massimo Vitali coffee and oranges married
MENS SWIM SHORTS

in a sweet, spicy bourbon


our three favourites

Moorea swim
shorts, 200, unexpectedly delicious. I also love
vilebrequin.com the Dodds Gin from our Green
Bar Botanicals & Tonics, served
with Fever-Tree Mediterranean
tonic, fresh chillies and lemon peel.
What reservation is more
Dolce & Gabbana Modern Monterey requested right now? The top
short-length printed wave print three are Sexy Fish, Chiltern
swim shorts, 245, board short, Firehouse and Restaurant Ours.
mrporter.com 50, landsend.co.uk
hotelcaferoyal.com
Dream Destinations Dream Destinations Dream Destinations
EUROPE-UK EUROPE ASIA
RESORT RIO
If you are looking at taking a luxurious
LA SABLONNERIE HOTEL. A convivial vacation without feeling a pinch in your
corner of a beautiful island. Gorgeous pocket, head to Resort Rio, the No. 1 Five
LESARRAIL Star Deluxe Resort in North Goa. Nestled
gardens, peace and tranquillity, birds, Set amongst the vineyards of the
butterflies, flowers, horses and carriages on the banks of the Baga river with the
Malpere, a beautiful wine growing area in famous salt pans of Goa beyond, Resort
no cars how could one not enjoy this the south of France, you will find
amazing paradise? You will find this hotel Rio is conveniently located, close to
LeSarrail, a hamlet of 4 luxury houses Goas renowned night markets, beaches
to have a great joie de vivre as well as sharing their own heated pool, with
terrific food. La Sablonnerie has recently and restaurants. This charming resort
panoramic views of unspoilt countryside boasts of opulent Royal Suites of over
received the highly coveted award from and a backdrop of the Pyrnes
Cond Nast JohansenS - Small Hotel of 1100 sq. ft. and is the only resort in Goa
mountains. to have 3 and 4 bedroom villas, some with
the Year. Visit www.sablonneriesark.com www.lesarrail.com
or call 01481 832 061. plunge pools. With an array of specialized
+33 (0) 468 765 966 restaurants including an ethnic veg
restaurant which over the years has
become the pride of Goa, Resort Rio is a
foodies paradise. Whats more its award
winning Zaara Spa and wellness centre
makes this quaint resort a perfect retreat.
Whether it is a family holiday, romantic
getaway or a destination wedding, Resort
Rio will prove to be your ideal bet.
Visit www.ResortRio.com or
call +91 9922708780
for more information.

CHTEAU RIEUTORT
MILL HOUSE LUXURY COTTAGES Set in beautiful south of France, this 18th
Nestled between the breathtaking century chteau and wine domain offers
Yorkshire Dales and Lake District National an unforgettable escape for a maximum
Parks, Mill House Luxury Cottages offer a of 55 guests. With Chateau suites and
unique opportunity to explore this idyllic self-catering gtes, you can enjoy 2
area. The cottages offer superior Four and
Five star Gold self-catering holiday
swimming pools, the Hrault river and
extraordinary wine. www.chateau-rieutort.fr
Dream Destinations
accommodation to which youll return time T: +33 4 67 89 38 20
and time again. Book your peaceful retreat
in this unspoilt countryside at
www.millhousecottages.co.uk
AFRICA & INDIAN OCEAN
T: 015242 76500

THE ZANZIBAR COLLECTION


Exotic, Luxurious, Zanzibar!
The Zanzibar Collection is a privately
owned collection of beautiful boutique
hotels inspired by the magic of Zanzibar,
lying on one of the Top 30 Island beaches
THE STONEHOUSES Located in the in the world. Offering a range of water
beautiful and dramatic NW Highlands of sports, stunning Spas and East Africas
Scotland. 2 luxury holiday houses.
Groundbreaking architecture, stunning HERITAGE LISBON HOTELS only National Geographic affliated PADI 5
Live the Portuguese Charm and Tradition star Dive Centre.
views, and fabulous location. Wilderness Baraza Resort and Spa was voted as the
on the doorstep but a short walk from the in the Historic centre of Lisbon. Stay in
one of the 5 Heritage Lisbon Hotels No.1 Hotel in Africa on TripAdvisor
vibrant, picturesque village of Ullapool. Travellers' Choice Awards and also among
www.thestonehouses.co.uk Collection As Janelas Verdes, Heritage
Avenida Liberdade Hotel, Hotel Britania, the Top 25 Hotels in the World.
T: 01854 613838 www.thezanzibarcollection.com
Hotel Lisboa Plaza and Solar Do Castelo.
Tel: +351 213 218 200
heritage.hotels@heritage.pt
www.heritage.pt

BRIMSTONE HOTEL is the epitome of THE PLANTATION LODGE


luxury, nestled in the very heart of the Lake BASTIDE VALMASQUE TANZANIA, AFRICA
District. To stay in any of the 16 rooms or Just 5 minutes from the beaches of Like a green oasis, Plantation Lodge
suites is to escape into relaxation, Antibes, this charming 19th century b&b rests on the red-brown hills. The
enhanced by the attentive service of the in Cte d'Azur boasts the perfect idyllic individually furnished rooms and suites
host team. The beautiful scenery is getaway. Explore the beautiful French melting harmoniously into the flowering
enough of an incentive to visit; the food, Riviera, play a little ptanque and request garden offer comfort and relaxation.
rooms and spa are reasons to stay. a Mediterranean cooking class at this Plantation Lodges cordial service leaves
015394 38062 picturesque home away from home. no wish unfulfilled. For more information
www.brimstonehotel.co.uk www.bastidevalmasque.com visit www.plantation-lodge.com
T: +33 493 65 21 42

RESIDENZA TORRE COLONNA is a


beautiful guest house nestled in a
defensive tower built in 1247, found in the
bustling heart of Rome. Thanks to its The wooden southern slopes of Table
unique blend of modern luxury and Mountain,in an area of outstanding
GLEWSTONE COURT COUNTRY medieval history, combining boutique natural beauty lies THE TARRAGON.
HOUSE HOTEL rooms and excellent service, the property Stylish,serviced cottages (2-6 pax) are
A charming Georgian manor house set in is itself a priceless piece of the Roman set in gardens with magnificent mountain
2 acres of beautiful grounds with stunning story and is well worth a visit. and valley views offering peace and
views of the Herefordshire Countryside. T: +3906 83600192 www.torrecolonna.it tranquility but ideally located for all that
1 of only 11 UK Good Hotel Award Cape Town has to offer.
Winners 2015. Three Counties Wedding www.thetarragon.com 0027(0)76191 7755
Award Nominee 2016. One of the best info@thetarragon.com
wedding venues in Herefordshire: fully
licensed. Trip Advisor Certificate of LA BORDE is an elegant but intimate
Excellence 2015. The perfect venue for a retreat in Burgundys rolling landscape, only
wedding, private function, celebration or 90 minutes from Paris. The personalised
retreat with partner, family or friends service you receive makes the 16th
century former chateau your home for the
Email : info@glewstonecourt.com duration of your stay. The cuisine, exquisite
Tel : 01989 770367 gardens, and timeless beauty of the manor
itself are only a few reasons why La Borde Dream Destinations
is a must for anyone seeking a tranquil
escape. +33 (0)386476901 www.lbmh.fr
AUSTRALASIA & OCEANIA
THE HUKA RETREATS
www.hukaretreats.com
CLASSIC COTTAGES find holiday MAS DAUGUSTINE Three sister properties in South Africa, Fiji
cottages that people fall in love with. Where old & new blend in perfect and New Zealand chic and understated
When you walk into one of their holiday harmony, creating a retreat of luxury, statements of exclusivity and seclusion, all
homes, they want you to say Wow, put culture and history, just 10 minutes from offering an exceptional hospitality experience
your feet up and relax. Their years of Uzs. Five beautifully restored & to the worlds most discerning travellers.
experience will ensure you will have the decorated ensuite bedrooms await your
arrival, so relax & unwind after a day of GRANDE PROVENCE ESTATE, South
best holiday ever. For further details Africa, is located within a one-hour drive
please visit www.classic.co.uk discovering the wonderful local sights, or
simply soak up the sun by the (heated) from Cape Town. This 300-year old heritage
or call 01326 555555 estate offers award-winning wines, cuisine
pool.
www.masdaugustine.com and art gallery with superb accommodation
T: +33 466 72 71 61 at The Owners Cottage and La Provenale.
T +27 (0)21 876 8600
E reservations@grandeprovence.co.za
DOLPHIN ISLAND, Fiji offers 14-acres of
Pacific private island beauty, romance and
luxury castaway time for a max. of 8
guests, on an exclusive-use basis.
SCARISTA HOUSE, winner of the 2015 GRAN HOTEL ATLANTIS BAHA REAL, HUKA LODGE, New Zealand, is famed for
Good Hotel Guide Editors Choice Award, Right on the seafront near the stunning its natural beauty, legendary hospitality and
is an elegant small hotel overlooking one beauty of Corralejo Natural Dune Park, absolute style since the 1920s. With just
of the most beautiful beaches on the Fuerteventura. This is a hotel designed for 25 rooms within 17-acres of manicured
remote Hebridean Isle of Harris. Guests the ultimate in relaxation, privacy and grounds.
enjoy traditional comfort in elegantly luxurious pampering, where personal touch
furnished rooms and natural, skilled and attention to detail are guaranteed. Contact: T +64 7 378 5791
cooking and good wines in the intimate Tel: +34 928 53 71 53, E-mail: E reservations@hukalodge.co.nz
restaurant. Visit www.scaristahouse.com reservations.bahiareal@atlantishotels.com for both Huka Lodge & Dolphin Island
or call 01859 550238. www.atlantisbahiareal.com reservations.
  
   


 
 








 






 

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CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...To Italy


Hotel Villa San Michele

Paradise is no longer the reserve of your imagination


To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705

www.hotel-villasanmichele.it
Tel: 39 081 8101564 hotelvillasanmicheleravello@gmail.com
info@lasuiteresort.com www.lasuiteresort.com www.facebook.com/hotelvillasanmicheleravello

www.privatevillasofitaly.com

Providing an authentic experience in your home away from home


Find your holiday villa in Italy with us
+393938757700
www.sopranovillas.com info@sopranovillas.com
Italy's Finest Collection of Villas & Holiday Properties

Handpicked villass, apar tm


ments and hotels,
in all the most sought- after locations in Sicilyy.
essentialitaly.co.uk
k + 44 (0)1223 460100
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...To Greece


Situated at the most exclusive location of Fira, on the cliffs of the Caldera with unlimited
views of the famous volcano, the sunset and the whole island and only a few meters from
the centre of Fira, but still providing a peaceful and relaxing atmosphere, Athina Luxury
Suites is the place to stay in Santorini.

T: (+30) 22860 24910 info@athinasuites.com www.athinasuites.com

Areti Camping
& Bungalows

Neos Marmaras
Chalkidiki, Greece
www.areti-campingandbungalows.gr
info@areti-chalkidiki.gr

Secluded & Connected


Villa No.10 Seafront Villas Greece
Stunning Villa for Rent in Porto Helli, Peloponnese, Greece

Pino Di Loto is a small , boutique B&B,


located in Kini Village on the island of
Syros. With a maximum capacity of 10
guests, this intimate atmosphere ensures
all of the privacy, relaxation and luxury of
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Island Life Experience.

www.pinodiloto.gr
reservation@pinodiloto.gr
0030 22810 71504 www.villa10greece.com
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move... On The Move...


To Greece To a Villa retreat

Exceptional villa rentals


F R A N C E , S PA I N , I T A LY

ABTA P6629
To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705

'SBODFt*UBMZt.PSPDDP
-VYVSZWJMMBTXJUIQSJWBUFQPPMT

01442 801 242


+33 (0)9 82 57 13 64 www.qualityvillas.com

Explore the best Portugal has


to offer from the comfort of
Antares Hotel Mani is located in Areopoli a
your holiday home -
small historic and preserved traditional
or never leave it!
settlement, where sky meets sea, in a pristine,
un-spoilt and precious natural environment.
Contact
00 351 93 433 13 27
00 44 208144 3559
www.sol-domus.com info@sol-domus.com

Discover Le Marche

Areopoli, Mani Greece


+3027330 51700 www.antareshotel.gr italian-idyll.com
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...
To A Villa Retreat

Handpicked Properties
with Private Pools
A selection of beautiful individual villas
& houses with pools in tranquil settings
& areas of traditional local culture.
Call for a brochure or to speak to one of our
specialists 01954 261431
or visit our website www.vintagetravel.co.uk
2787

GREECESPAINLANZAROTEBALEARICS PORTUGAL
TURKEY FRANCEITALYCROATIA V5643

www.villa-prestige-service.com/en
Tel : 00 33(0)4 94 97 30 78

Villa Punto de Vista is a fully


staffed, 10-bedroom estate,
set in the rainforest. This
one-of-a-kind villa combines
the space and luxury of a
private residence with the
services of a five-star hotel.

www.villapuntodevista.com
info@villapuntodevista.com

Toll Free Phone:


1-888-890-8687

www.beyondspacesvillas.com
T: ++ 357 22021156
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On The Move...
Khem Villas, Luxury Jungle
Camp at Ranthambore
Situated on the edge of Ranthambore Tiger
reserve, the camp is designed to provide peace and
tranquillity within its luxurious and very personal
atmosphere
Welcome to Khem Villas
Tel: 094140 3026
To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705

khemvillas@anokhi.com www.khemvillas.com

VILLA LA CASSINELLA. LAKE COMOS BEST KEPT SECRET


A place of extraordinary beauty, tranquillity and elegance, Villa la Cassinella CLOVE HALL BOWMAN YACHT
is a secluded private estate on the shores of Lake Como. PENANG CHARTERS
EXPLORE DISCOVER DREAM
One of the worlds inest and most exclusive retreats. The Villa offers a
swimming pool, cinema, gym and its own private butler for up to 17 guests.
This rare and luxurious estate will charm and enthral at every turn. )!**(')+,)*+*',(+*!) ,*',(')++
%, +%, ,"*++ ,'!,% ('!
www.villalacassinella.com

An exquisitely restyled elegant


'black and white' Mansion of the %+,&&,$#,#$#$
British colonial era

(*+%,&&,$,#&&
T: +604-229-0818 *'(()' )"")% "(
info@villalacassinella Tel +39 0344 55411 www.clovehall.com www.bowmanyachtcharters.com

Unforgettable Holidays at
Domaine Les Roullets
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RESORTS & SPAS, SRI LANKA

CHILAW

Tel +33 (0)4 90 71 21 88 info@lesroullets.com lesroullets.com


PASSIKUDAH

TANZANIA ADVENTURES AND SAFARIS

Opening Soon

Want to have the experience of a life-time and enjoy a


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www.itstartedinafrica.com
www.anantaya.lk
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On The Move...

Sayulita, Mxico

www.casamisamores.com

Yakushima, Japan

Welcome to a hotel in paradise


on the utterly unique island of
Yakushima. Surrounded by the
ancient rainforest, you can
leave your burdens behind and
enjoy a luxurious holiday on
The island of life.
KETAPANG ESTATE
BALI INDONESIA
www.ketapangestate.com
Ketapang Estate is a veritable haven of Balinese design and antiquities. The villas
are traditional but luxurious giving one a sense of traditional Balinese lifestyle
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CREEKSIDE COTTAGES
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Tel: +(506) 2200 3131 USA +508-745-5779


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June 2016 Cond Nast Traveller 151


ROOM WITH A VIEW

WHERE ARE WE? VILLA TRE VILLE, POSITANO, ITALY


WHY WE LOVE IT Film director Franco Zeirellis villa, which he sold in 2007, is now one of the most magical
small hotels in Italy. What singles out Tre Ville is its immense beauty and seclusion, despite Positano being only a couple of hairpin
PHOTOGRAPH: PETER J LINDBERG

bends away. Everyone has stayed here, from the Taylor-Burtons to Maria Callas and Sophia Loren, and interesting people
(diplomats, artists, actresses who shun the limelight rather than hog it) still do. Book the white, cream and silver Diaghilev suite,
which has double doors that open on to a small balcony, with the bay of Positano at your feet. And although the price is hardly
chump change it includes all drinks, which means cocktails any time you want them in wafer-thin Murano glasses. Wander into
the kitchen and the chef will whip up whatever you fancy whenever you fancy it, using fresh produce from Tre Villes gardens. In a
spoilt life full of lovely terraces, there isnt a more heavenly one than this: heart-stopping views down to the water, and the lights
of the Amal Coast play like muted piano notes in the distance. villatreville.com. Doubles from about 590 JEREMY WAYNE

152 Cond Nast Traveller June 2016


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