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ITALIAN HOSPITALITY

Hotel dInghilterra is loved for its magnificent location, compelling history, eclectic
originality and effortless elegance, with which it welcomes its prominent guests.

A private noble residence where each of our 88 rooms and suites have
been beautifully decorated with exclusive fabrics, antiques and artworks, all
handpicked to create the unique individuality that sets us apart from other hotels.

With its chic alfresco seating on Via Borgognona, Caf Romano combines
cosmopolitan style, elegant ambiance and exquisite Italian cuisine.

Book quoting our Winter Offer to get your complimentary breakfast,


room upgrade upon avail ability and free wifi.

Hotel d Inghilterra Via Bocca di Leone 14 I 00187 Rome I Italy


reservations@hoteldinghilterra.com I Ph. +390687503987 I hoteldinghilterra.com
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CONTENTS
JANUARY 2016
ON THE COVER
16 WHERE TO GO IN 2016
From the Pacific to the Amazon and
the African savannah, we pick the 10
places you should visit this year

44 GOOD-TIME SPAS
Healthy living is almost a religion in
California, but theres an alternative
that mixes blissful treatments with a
happy approach to food and grape

68 ROMAN HOLIDAY
As some of its most storied landmarks
emerge from a facelift, its a good time
to return to the Eternal City

78 TAKE IT SLOW

16 When it comes to city-hopping, the


PHOTO: ALAMY

fastest way is not always the best.


Annabelle Thorpe relaxes the pace
Isfahan in Iran is
on our list of places on a train journey from Bangkok
to visit in 2016 to Singapore

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 7


67
Alessandra Ambrosio
on beauty essentials
and packing tips

CONTENTS
JANUARY 2016

48
Eat fresh at the
new Shangri-La
in Mauritius

30
Explore Red Mountain
on a ski trip in Canada

11 EDITORS LETTER 44 WHERE TO STAY


CNT exclusives: inside Shangri-
12 CONTRIBUTORS Las reimagined Le Touessrok

88
Resort & Spa, Mauritius and a
14 MASTHEAD sneak peek of the new Sheraton
Sharjah Beach Resort & Spa;
16 AGENDA bed-hopping with Hollywood Pack right for
The Travel Connoisseur on stalwart Molly Ringwald; classic this months
destinations
embracing the wellness holiday; and fun hotels in Berlin
whats on in the world this
month; Gordon Ramsay reveals 58 TRAVEL IN STYLE
where he had his best meal Meet all your packing needs
and the hottest new foodie with three-piece matching
destination; Mike MacEacheran luggage sets; take the plunge
discovers immaculate powder with submersible diving
and endless sky on the Powder watches; designer Andraya
Highway in British Columbia Farrag on packing essentials
for a trip to Peru; embark on a
34 WORD OF MOUTH journey to India with an exotic
Global travel news including this purse; Victorias Secret angel night stay for two at Angsana
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, RHEA SARAN

years must-see polo matches, Alessandra Ambrosio on her Balaclava Mauritius


futuristic forms of transport and
the latest hotspots in Yangon.
travel tness routine and
family holidays 94 THE EXPERTS
ON THE COVER
Photographed by
Plus, actor Matthew Rhys picks Wheres the best urban spa? Stefania Paparelli
his gastronomy greats 88 GET THE LOOK Model: Svetlana
How to pack for this months 95 STOCKISTS Khodchenkova
40 OUT OF THE WOODS trips, from ski destinations Where to shop On Svetlana: Dress by Dior.
A new breed of rural restaurants to train journeys Serpenti earrings, watch,
bracelet, ring in gold with
are luring foodies away from 114 ROOM WITH A VIEW
diamonds and peridots;
Scandinavias cities and bringing 90 WHERE ARE YOU? SHA Wellness Clinic, all by Bulgari
New Nordic cuisine to the fore Enter our contest to win a three- Alicante, Spain

8 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


Uniquely London
Soak up the past where Winston Churchill once sipped whisky. Embrace the future in an eye-catching
architectural wonder. Take afternoon tea in a Georgian gem where Mayfair meets Marylebone. Rediscover
X

luxuryhotelsgroup.com
Call: +44 (0) 2035 409 972
Email: info@luxuryhotelsgroup.com

@LuxHotelsGroup Luxury-Hotels-Group
Moment
The Team Members of LUX* help people to celebrate life with
the most simple, fresh and sensory hospitality in the world.

M AU R I T I U S R E U N I O N M A L D I V E S C H I N A U . A . E ( 2 0 1 6 ) | L U X R E S O R T S . C O M
EDITOR'S PHOTO: GAURI NAYAR; ADDITIONAL PHOTOS: ALAMY, MARK LUSCOMBE-WHYTE

Left: Playing the part of a water baby in Mauritius


at Shangri-Las recently opened Le Touessrok
Resort & Spa (the exclusive review on p 48)

India, chances are youve been on a train. I


travelled on a few in my time, including one
journey that lasted nearly two days. Ive read
my way through several books, listened to

EDITORS
Bon Jovi on loop on my Walkman and learnt
to play Uno on a train. Other times, Id just
gaze out at the paddy elds and little villages
we passed, with cows grazing not far from

LETTER
This is our
promise to the the track and schoolchildren in navy-striped
reader to be uniforms balancing satchels as they made
an essential
source of
their way home. But what I remember most
honest opinion about those trips is the food. The man walking

W
and must-have down the aisle calling, Chai, chai, garam chai,
information. You
can trust Cond
hen was the last time you had a whod decant thick, fragrant tea into a plastic
Nast Traveller conversation with the person cup, piping hot and sweet. And although you
to give you the next to you on a ight? And could order food (that was not half bad) in the
unbiased inside
no, Do you mind if I raise the First Class AC compartments, travellers always
track, with
integrity and partition? is not real conversation. Despite brought along snacks and sometimes full-
authority. some airlines adopting lounge areas in premier edged meals in portions meant for sharing.
cabins, we are, most of us, programmed to It was an unspoken rule that no one ate their
tune out once weve boarded, plugging into food without offering it around, and in the
headphones as soon as we sit down, hoping end, people from disparate walks of life would
that the person next to us is not of the chatty nd themselves chatting.
variety. Ive had people tell me they consider On luxury tour trains, where individual
it rude and even an invasion of privacy if cabins are the norm, there is nevertheless
their neighbour tries to engage in any verbal great opportunity for mingling, in bar and
interaction. While I wouldnt go quite that dining cars and mingle people inevitably
far, I will confess to occasionally avoiding eye do, as Annabelle Thorpe found on her slow
contact in order to discourage conversation. journey from Bangkok to Singapore aboard the
(Meanwhile, some of the greatest champions Eastern & Oriental Express (p 78). If you havent From top: Dizin ski resort in Iran,
of the do-not-disturb air travel philosophy are travelled by rail in a while, I dare you to fend the Eastern & Oriental Express train
connecting Bangkok and Singapore
the same individuals posting pictures from off temptation after reading this. and award-winning food in Lima are
their window seats, bubbly in hand, hashtag Other travel experiences to book this year: all good reasons to travel this year
#upintheair. Apparently not all on-board a trip to Havana before the crowds surge, a
communication is off limits.) passage to Lima to satisfy your taste buds, a
Its no wonder, then, that train travel ski trip in Iran, plus seven more hotspots for
feels not just nostalgic but like a completely this new year (Where to go in 2016, p 16). No
different world. For one thing, it forces us matter where you go, let your resolution be to
to slow down and be in the moment. And, take it slow and maybe, just once, say hello
importantly, travelling by train is a social affair. to the person behind the partition.
With one of the largest rail networks in the
world, if you spent any time growing up in RHEA SARAN Editor in Chief

Follow us: @cntravellerme Cond Nast Traveller Middle East @CNT_MiddleEast


JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 11
CONTRIBUTORS

Mark Luscombe- Britt Collins


Whyte
Stefania Paparelli Writing for The Guardian, The Annabelle Thorpe
A freelance photographer Sunday Times and Harpers
specialising in interiors, travel and Rome-born photographer Bazaar, Collins was also the Thorpe has been a travel
portraiture, Luscombe-Whyte Paparelli commutes from editor of Voyager, BMIs in-ight writer for over 15 years, writing
enjoys working with wet-plate Sardinia, where she lives with magazine. Her book STRAYS: A mainly for The Times and The
collodion, a photographic her family, to Paris and travels Lost Cat, A Homeless Man And Sunday Times, as well as various
process dating back to 1851. around the world for shoots Their Journey Across America, magazines and websites.
BASED IN: London and the with Elle, Glamour, Le Figaro, will be published by Simon & BASED IN: London and Sussex
South of France LOfciel and The Sunday Times. Schuster this autumn. WROTE: Take it slow, p 78
PHOTOGRAPHED: Take it BASED IN: Cagliari, Sardinia BASED IN: London WHAT WAS YOUR FAVOURITE
slow, p 78 PHOTOGRAPHED: Roman CONTRIBUTED TO: Good-time PART OF YOUR RAIL
THE MOST MEMORABLE PART holiday, p 68 spas, p 44 EXPERIENCE?
OF RIDING THE EASTERN & WHAT DID YOU DISCOVER THE BEST PART OF There are few travel
ORIENTAL EXPRESS? WHILE SHOOTING IN ROME? REVIEWING SPAS IN experiences that offer real,
Finding myself singing Old I discovered a fantastic CALIFORNIA WAS old-fashioned glamour, but
MacDonald Had A Farm in the trattoria, Fiaschetteria Palm Springs is full of lovely, the Eastern & Oriental Express
bar one night after dinner I Beltramme, which does the best romantic places to stay, but does. For me, the biggest joy
hadnt even had a drink. And the risotto al tartufo in town. I had La Quinta remains among the was the open-sided viewing
food was extraordinary. I couldnt never been to Hotel dInghilterra most memorable for the little car: sitting in a pool of sunshine,
believe what the team managed before and its a very charming details and moments. I had the watching the Thai countryside
to cook in a tiny space that is Italian property. I loved MAXXI: most incredible facial there, and slowly merge into Malaysia was
constantly moving. Museum of XXI Century Arts loved playing bocce with fallen unforgettable. The g&ts were
WHATS ON YOUR TRAVEL you cant miss it and I grapefruits with my husband pretty good, too.
RADAR FOR 2016? found a very cool little concept on the lawns in the dark, WHATS ON YOUR TRAVEL
Asia and the Middle East are on store called MOTU, which surrounded by the stars and RADAR FOR 2016?
my radar as there are so many does amazing evening dresses. the silence of the mountains. In 2016 Im hoping to head
new things happening in those WHATS ON YOUR TRAVEL WHATS ON YOUR TRAVEL back to Malaysia, to see more
regions. This month, I begin a RADAR FOR 2016? RADAR FOR 2016? of Penang, which we stopped
trip that will take me to Beirut, I am travelling to Mauritius for A BBC wildlife lm-maker once at briey while on the E&O
Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Dubai a fashion shoot and I plan to told me Papua New Guinea was and which had an amazing mix
and Istanbul. Im then taking my stay on a little longer to relax. the strangest, most savage place of colonial history and ethnic
long-suffering wife to Buenos Mauritius is somewhere I have shed ever been and she loved it, cultures. Im also keen to nally
Aires and Salta in Argentina wanted to visit for a long time so Ive wanted to go ever since. get to Sri Lanka. Closer to home,
for a couple of weeks. We have and I cant wait to discover the The Galpagos Islands are on Croatia is rmly on my radar; my
old friends who live there in a beautiful beaches and amazing my list because few things are rst novel, The People We Were
wonderful house in the middle of nature of the island as well as more thrilling than dashing off to Before, comes out in April,
nowhere. Cuba is also really hot the people. Milan and Paris are far-ung places to see animals. and its set there so Ill be
at the moment and I am hoping always on my travel schedule, Tasmania, for its sheer nowhere- talking about it a lot.
to go back again this year. but this year Im also looking ness and strange animals not
forward to travelling to Santo many places combine the wildest
Domingo in the Dominican wilderness with a buzzing food,
Republic and to Australia. grape and art scene.

12 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


CNTMEJAN16-CNTME0116.qxp 23/12/2015 12:23 Page 1

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SLUG

AGENDA
THE TRAVEL CONNOISSEUR  CALENDAR  GORDON RAMSAY

Where to go in 2016
From the Pacic to the Amazon and the African savannah,
these are the 10 places you should visit this year
SAFARI SPOT
BOTSWANA
The southern African nation celebrates 50 years of independence
with exciting new openings, says SARAH KHAN

B
otswanas appeal as a classic safari in the Delta, reopened in November with For travellers looking to maximise
destination is timeless: It boasts a canoe, barge and helicopter safaris among their time in the region, celebrated safari
great mix of topographical diversity its activities. Come March, Desert & Delta operator Micato Safaris (001-212-545
and a staggering range of activities from Safaris (0027-11-394 3873, desertdelta. 7111; micato.com), which counts David
elephant-back rides to river cruising all com) will unveil its update of Camp Beckham, Princes William and Harry and
in a fairly compact region. As the country Okavango (from AED 1,870 per person Robert De Niro among its clients, launches
celebrates its 50th anniversary, a host of all inclusive): the entire property will be a new 13-day Cape Town to Okavango
new lodges and eagerly awaited reopenings elevated, maximising views in all directions. Delta itinerary in March (from AED 44,620
are gearing up to welcome tourists. But the biggest news this year comes per person all inclusive), allowing visitors
&Beyond Sandibe Okavango Safari from bush icon Wilderness Safaris (from to traverse the Delta by foot, four-wheel
Lodge (from AED 4,190 per person all AED 8,420 per person all inclusive; 0027- drive and makoro canoe.
inclusive; 0027-11-809 4300, andbeyond. 11-807 1800; wilderness-safaris.com). The As if all this werent enough, travelling
com) completed a rebuild in late 2014 that new, nine-tent Qorokwe Camp is set on a to Botswana just got a bit easier,
recast it in contemporary style, with sinuous private concession overlooking a lagoon particularly if you were hoping to tack
suites that envelop their inhabitants like thats a hit with hippos. Also on deck: the a little grape-and-beach break on to
a cocoon while blending seamlessly into operator is staggering the renovations your trip: Beginning March 11, South
the environment. The 12-tent Belmond of its beloved Mombo Camp and Little Africas Airlink (yairlink.com) will launch
Eagle Island Lodge (from AED 3,120 per Mombo Camp, and opening the temporary direct ights to Maun from Cape Town,
person all inclusive; 0027-21-483 1600, Mombo Trails Camp to accommodate meaning ying through Joburg is no
belmondsafaris.com) set on its own island guests during the update. longer your only option.

16 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


SLUG
Spot wildlife from your tented
room at Belmond Eagle Island
Lodge in Botswana
PHOTO: MARK WILLIAMS

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 17


Chef Virgilio Martnez
Vliz. Left: Scallop
dish Harvest and
Collection at Central
Restaurante

The Sixty Mile Fish dish includes


squid, huarango and clam. Right:
The chefs Octopus in the Desert

FOODIE CAPITAL
LIMA, PERU
Chef Virgilio Martnez Vliz of Central Restaurante, named Latin Americas best restaurant last year,
talks to VIBHA DANIA-DHAWAN about presenting Peru on a plate
The ingredients you use are inspired You use products from only one region in The easy-going nature and authenticity of the
by the Pacic and the Peruvian Andes. each dish. Why is that? people from Lima are what I love the most.
Tell us more. When we do a dish, everything comes from
Our aim is not just to nd unique ingredients. one part, either the sea, desert, Andes or Where is the culinary world headed?
We get the stories behind these great Amazonia. We create a radius and choose I think its going to change a lot just like the
ingredients the people, the environment products within that. We respect everything world is changing. Theres diversity and respect
and landscape theyre surrounded by, and from a particular ecosystem for example, for different cuisines. Perhaps Russia or Turkey
we try to tell our own stories about whats we dont use Amazonian products with will come up with something who knows?
happening in the Andes. We also cross the Andean products. This adds credibility and Everyones talking about nature, going back
Andes into Amazonia for this. The ingredients authenticity to what we do. Peru, more than to our roots, which to me means digging out
may be new and unique to us but not for other parts of South America, has a big focus something new.
the locals. We know very little of whats and obsession with food.
happening in Peru because of the huge You have outposts in Cusco and London.
biodiversity. Travelling gives us tools to How does Lima inspire you? Are there further plans for expansion?
create new things and keep innovation I love Lima, the culture of the sea and ceviche I will be opening my restaurant, Lima, in
alive. We try to create menus based on which used to be our fast food, by the way. Dubai most likely in March. The culinary
altitudes. Our style involves perceiving Lima was a seafood paradise 10 years ago and team will consist of people from Lima,
and understanding each ecosystem. nothing has changed in that respect today. London and Dubai.
18 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
WHERE TO GO IN 2016
A view of the Capitol building
from the terrace of Hotel
Saratoga. Left: A classic car
drives down Paseo del Prado

A woman in
colonial-era style
de Bejucal (doubles from AED 440; 0053-7-864
9191, hotelmarquesdesanfelipe.com) is well-
placed on Plaza de San Francisco. Beyond
GO HERE NOW the Baroque faade lie friendly staff and clean,
HAVANA, CUBA large rooms. Breakfast in the courtyard is
Fresh from a visit to the time- included and very good, so you can fuel
frozen city, RHEA SARAN offers tips up before exploring the old town.

for making the most of your trip WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Exciting new paladares (privately owned,

E
veryones heading for Cuba. Rihannas often family-run restaurants) have emerged
been there, Katie Perry stopped by around the city and improved eating out in
and in October Chanel announced that Havana. Down a little street near the Catedral
Karl Lagerfeld has his sights set on Havana for de San Cristbal in Old Havana is Doa
the brands 2017 Cruise presentation this May. Eutimia (entres from AED 10; 0053-5-270
The warming of relations between the US and 6433), where tables spill out from the cosy,
Cuba last year saw a surge in visitor numbers, art-festooned interior on to a small patio. Start
with travellers from around the globe keen to with a avoured cocktail before tucking into
see the country before the changes that will the tender and delicious ropa vieja (braised
inevitably follow. shredded lamb) served with salad, beans, rice
and fried plantain. Call ahead for reservations
GETTING THERE a small carry-on to avoid additional charges. as they are always booked out. Housed in a
Several international carriers y to Havana Upgrading to First is not worth it if youre museum of curiosities walls and furniture
via Europe, including Air France, Aeroot, taking the 45-minute ight from Miami. covered in old photographs, artworks, framed
Virgin Atlantic and KLM. Visitors travelling medals and clocks the kitchen at paladar
from the States have traditionally own via WHERE TO STAY San Cristbal (entres from AED 10; 0053-7-860
Mexico or other Caribbean nations. Now People say that ve-star doesnt mean the 1705) is helmed by jovial chef-owner Carlos
direct charter ights from American cities, same thing in Cuba as it does elsewhere. Cristbal Mrquez Valds who specialises in
including New York, Los Angeles and daily This is not untrue, but you can nd charming Cuban-Creole avours, which can be tasted
ights from Miami are available. You can accommodation options. Hotel Saratoga in the rub of the grilled sh. Other standouts
book seats through outts like Cuba Travel (doubles from AED 1,550; 0053-7-868 1000, are the cerdo asado (roast pork) and a seafood
Services (cubatravelservices.com) get them to hotel-saratoga.com) is centrally located a salad with fresh octopus and lobster. In the
handle your visa at an additional fee who stones throw from El Capitolio and the Gran Vedado neighbourhood, the agship Coppelia
also organise on-ground itineraries and hotel Teatro de La Habana with a rooftop pool, (ice cream from AED 10; 0053-7-832 3450)
PHOTOS: ALAMY, CORBIS

bookings. Response time can be slow, but two restaurants, a lounge, a spa and well- ice cream parlour is a must not just for the
they get the job done. Get to the airport no appointed rooms. Theres also near-constant icy scoops topped with cookie crumble and
later than three hours (they recommend four) Wi-Fi (a rarity in Cuba) built into the cost syrup but because its a slice of Cuban history,
before your ight as you have to pick up the of your room. Downstairs, a travel agent can having been created in 1966 in a project led
visa and pay the exit tax and the lines get make bookings for cigar-factory tours or a by Fidel Castro. When in Havana, drink
long. If your bag is overweight, expect to pay night at Tropicana. In Habana Vieja, the Hotel like Hemingway did at Floridita (cocktails
excess baggage at the airport, and bring only Palacio del Marqus de San Felipe y Santiago from AED 20; oridita-cuba.com), where the
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 19
A courtyard at the
Colonial Art Museum

Ice cream
parlour Coppelia Finca Viga was
Hemingways home
for many years and has
been preserved to appear as
if the author just stepped The Room of Mirrors at
out for a minute Museo de la Revolucin

the Baroque Catedral de San Cristbal,


the Colonial Art Museum (entry, AED 10;
0053-7-862 6440) and Hotel Ambos Mundos
(doubles from AED 300; 0053-7-860 9529,
hotelambosmundos-cuba.com), a favourite haunt
of Hemingways. Two unmissable museums
are the Museo de la Revolucin (entry, AED
30; Calle Refugio No 1), housed ironically in
a former presidential palace and containing
interesting exhibits as well as the beautiful
Saln de los Espejos (Room of Mirrors) that
was built to resemble the Versailles palace;
and the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (entry,
AED 30; 0053-7-861 0241, bellasartes.cult.cu),
the ne arts museum whose collection spans
from colonial times to current Cuban talents,
including cubist surrealist Wifredo Lam as well
as sculptor Rita Longa. In Centro Habana,
the Gran Teatro de la Habana (tickets, AED 70;
Hemingway daiquiri is said to have been 0053-7-861 3077), El Capitolio (entry, AED 15;
invented, and at La Bodeguita del Medio 422 Industria) and the pedestrianised Paseo
(cocktails from AED 15; 0053-7-571375) if you del Prado should be on your list. Also nearby
can squeeze into the popular watering hole is one of Latin Americas oldest Chinatowns,
just off the Plaza de la Catedral. Prepare to Barrio Chino de La Habana, which is fronted
be surrounded by tourists here. by a typical paifang to mark the entrance.
Further aeld, a night at Tropicana (ticket
WHAT TO SEE & DO from AED 275; 0053-7-267 1717, www.cabaret-
You could spend your time wandering around tropicana.com) is worth the taxi ride out, as is a
the streets of Havana and you should do visit to Finca Viga (entry, AED 10; 0053-7-691
precisely this in Habana Vieja, ticking off 0809) particularly if youre a literary buff, as
sights like the 16th-century Castillo de la it was Hemingways home for many years and Enjoy a cabaret
performance
Real Fuerza off the Plaza de Armas (where has been preserved to appear as if the author at Tropicana
second-hand booksellers peddle their wares), just stepped out for a minute.
20 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
WHERE TO GO IN 2016
OPEN SESAME The UNESCO-listed
IRAN Naqsh-e Jahan Square in
Isfahan. Below: Colourful
With the easing of sanctions and tilework at Sheikh
visas on arrival for most European Lotfollah Mosque

passport holders, this historic


nation is making a comeback
as a holiday destination.
TAHEREH SARIBAN highlights
the gems beyond Tehran

A
ccording to the Farsi proverb, Isfahan
is half of the world, radiating a unique
aura that makes it the city to visit in
Iran in 2016. Its famed 16th-century Islamic
architecture will delight students and laymen
alike, and on a warm spring day when
vendors around the UNESCO-listed Naqsh-e
Jahan Square unfold their cream-coloured
canopies and the sun gleams against the
golden tiles of the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque,
the gentle call to prayer resonating throughout
the square expect to be transported to a
different era. The city boasts many ve-star
hotels, but the quiet, understated Dibai
House (doubles from AED 260; 0098-31-3220
9787, dibaihouse.com) offers a truly traditional
experience of 18th-century life around the
bazaar. The period home was carefully
restored by a mother-daughter pair, who serve
piping hot barbari bread and home-made
jams for breakfast. Try the Khoresht-e Fesenjan
stew at Shahrzad (entres from AED 15; 0098-
311-220 4490, shahrzad-restaurant.com) and
afternoon tea in the gardens of the Abbasi
Hotel (tea from AED 5; 0098-313-222 6010,
abbasihotel.ir), both within walking distance
of the city square.
Iran and skiing may not be synonymous,
but as with many other things, the country
breaks with stereotype. Just 45 minutes from
Tehran, on a twisting mountain road, lie the
resorts of Darbandsar, Shemshak and, higher
up, Dizin. Stop at Koohestan restaurant, Iran is home to ski
resorts like Shemshak
right before Darbandsar beside a man-made
icefall, for a hearty, delicious breakfast of
omelette served Iranian style on a bed of arrange for comfortable apartments for rent 2617, manouchehrihouse.com) offers the
fresh tomato pure and khameh asal (cream on a weekly, or even daily, basis. most unforgettable encounter with Iranian
and honey with local bread). The resorts One of the less-explored cities, Kashan, renement. Kashan is best visited in early
infrastructure is limited but with elevations was once an important trading centre, spring; most hotels will assist in enlisting a
between 2,000 to 3,000m and top-quality light producing high-quality pottery and tiles (kashi private driver for a jaunt into the countryside
continental powder, they continue to attract in Farsi, hence the towns name). In the 19th to witness the annual rose water distillation.
winter adventurers from around the world. century, prosperous merchants built lavish The UNESCO-registered red village of
Beginners and those with small children will homes here, many of which have undergone Abyaneh, one of Irans oldest and the site
appreciate the gentle slopes of Darbandsar and renovations and are now public museums, of a Sassanid ruin, is a two-hour scenic drive
the wider lanes of Dizin, while mogul-lovers such as the Khaneh-ye Borujerdiha and the through the semi-arid hills of Isfahan province.
will prefer the steeper inclines of Shemshak. Khaneh-ye Tabatabaei. Other architectural Kashan and the ski resorts are an easy
Views of Mount Damavand on a sunny day are treasures like the Saraye Ameriha (doubles from drive from Tehrans Imam Khomeini
PHOTOS: ALAMY

guaranteed as is the aprs-ski scene, which is AED 370; 0098-31-5524 0220, sarayeameriha. International Airport, while Isfahan is a
as important to Iranians as the sport itself. Ski com) have recently been turned into boutique short taxi drive from Isfahan International
and snowboarding equipment is available for hotels. Restored to its original beauty and Airport. Snow has fallen irregularly in Tehran
rent in Shemshak, and its worth striking up serving excellent local cuisine, Manouchehri province in the past years, so check the
a conversation with the locals who can often House (entres from AED 15; 0098-31-5524 forecast before booking a ski trip.
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 21
afuence of its residents, Village Mall (0055-
21-3003 4177, shoppingvillagemall.com.br)
is packed with labels such as Louis Vuitton,
and its rooftop hosts DJ events and gourmet
food festivals. The young and hip gather near
the rst lifeguard post on Praia do Pep for
daytime lounging, and spill out on to Avenida
Olegrio Maciel at night, to the soundtrack
of samba. A new cycle lane will link Barra
with the rest of the city in time for the games,
and a Metro line will ferry commuters from
Ipanema to Barra in 20 minutes. The Brazilian
Football Confederation has moved its
interactive football museum Museu Seleo
Brasileira (entry, AED 80; 0055-21-3572 2006,
Surng at
museuselecaobrasileira.com.br) here, too, with
Barra beach plenty to divert both adults and children.
A gateway to Rios natural wonders, the
lifestyle in Barra is appropriately sporty for the
SPORTS CITY where the waters are a deep greeny-blue. Olympic City. Surfers cruise the open waters
RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL Get an overview of the neighbourhood on a here and are joined along the 12km Barra
With the Olympics around the helicopter ride from Jacarepagu Airport. An beach by kite surfers and stand-up paddle
eight-minute ride takes you over the Olympic boarders. A car ride brings you to smaller,
corner, BETH MCLOUGHLIN site, the gloriously wild Tijuca National Park hidden beaches like Prainha, with its rainforest
shines a spotlight on the less-known (0055-21-2491 1700, parquedatijuca.com.br) backdrop and numerous hiking opportunities,
neighbourhood of Barra da Tijuca the biggest urban park in the world and to and secluded Grumari.
the ocean before returning. As the countdown to the Summer
Few cities are more recognisable than Rio In time for Rio 2016, new hotels have Olympics (August 5-21) and the Paralympics
de Janeiro, but Barra da Tijuca, where cropped up. The slick Hilton (doubles from (September 7-18) continues, Brazilian
the Olympics will take place, is a part less AED 360; 0055-21-3348 1000, hilton.com), Paralympic athlete and London 2012 gold
explored. Its gleaming condominiums, with its rooftop bar and original artworks is medal winner Yohansson Nascimento says,
wide open roads, enviable coastline and an a recent addition, while the Sheraton Barra I think about the stadiums full of Brazilians
imitation of the Statue of Liberty have caused Rio de Janeiro Hotel (doubles from AED 480; cheering, and how much joy it is going to
it to be compared to Miami. There are even 0055-21-3139 8033, starwoodhotels.com) has sea bring. It is a chance for us to show what we
crocodiles lurking in the bits of swampland, views and an exceptional spa. Mirroring the can do, in sports other than football.

ALL IN ONE Colourful colonial


COLOMBIA architecture
in Bogot
A decade ago, Colombia was better known for corruption, rebels and
kidnappings. But todays cleaned-up reality is of cosmopolitan cities,
unspoilt beaches and world-class outdoor adventures, says CHRIS WHITE

C
olombias capital Bogot is enjoying a away. The latter hosts Colombias biggest
renaissance as one of Latin Americas esta, the Miss Colombia beauty pageant,
coolest cities, booming with museums, a serious business that constitutes a full
galleries and restaurants. For culture buffs, week of street parties and dancing in
there are over 50 museums, and the new November. Medelln is the intellectual
Centro Cultural Gabriel Garca Mrquez capital, in a dramatic setting perched on a
(free entry; 0057-1-283 2200, fce.com.co) is a mountainside. It also has a wild nightlife
must for any fan of Colombias most famous scene. Rooms at the ve-star The Charlee
author. In the citys gourmet quarter Lifestyle Hotel (doubles from AED 590; 0057-
Zona G you can sample the countrys 4-444 4968, thecharlee.com) come with amazing
best fare. Head to Harry Sasson (entres from city views and theres a rooftop pool.
AED 20; 0057-1-347 7155, harrysasson.com), Beyond the urban sprawl, theres the
named for its head chef, where inventive Amazon rainforest to trek through, the soaring
salads and Japanese-style parrilla steak Andes mountains to climb and untouched
are menu highlights. beaches to discover, the best being on the
Its easy to city-hop across the country Caribbean coast. Colombia may not have a
with safe local airlines. Cali, the spiritual Machu Picchu or Patagonia, but for quantity
home of salsa, and laid-back Cartagena, on and quality away from the tourist hordes, its
the Caribbean coast, are less than 90 minutes up there with the best of South America.
22 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
WHERE TO GO IN 2016
CULTURAL CURRENCY
SAN SEBASTIN, SPAIN
Its known for its talented chefs
and Michelin-starred restaurants,
but the 2016 European Capital of
Culture has much more going for
it, nds VIBHA DANIA-DHAWAN

MUSEUMS
San Telmo Museum
For a good dose of Basque art and history,
head to this museum housed in a 16th-century
The view from Mount
building, formerly a Dominican convent, in Igueldo. Below: Tabakalera
Parte Vieja (the Old Town). Following a three- specialises in the visual arts
year renovation and expansion in 2011, the old
and new have come together with an avant-
garde building of contemporary architecture.
Dont miss paintings by the likes of Ignacio
Zuloaga and Antonio Ortiz Echage.
Entry, AED 24; 00-34-94348 1580,
santelmomuseoa.com

Tabakalera
Contemporary art, cinema, television, video
and design meet at the inspiring International
Centre for Contemporary Culture that The iconic Victoria
specialises in the visual arts. Eugenia Theatre building
Free entry; 0034-943-01 1311, tabakalera.eu

Aquarium of San Sebastin Fitzgerald, Miles Davis, Ray Charles, Mount Urgull
Immerse yourself in marine life in the eco- Van Morrison and Liza Minnelli. With Put on a pair of trainers and burn off those
building which has an acrylic tunnel providing over 100 concerts spread across 12 stages pintxos by climbing the steps near the
a 360-degree view of mantas, sharks, turtles during a ve-day period, theres plenty Baslica of Santa Mara to reach this peak
and over 5,000 other marine species. to choose from. with breathtaking views of Mount Igueldo
Entry, AED 50; 0034-943-44 0099, 0034-943-48 1900, heinekenjazzaldia.com and the deep blue sea. There is a tiny
aquariumss.com bar close to the top where you can pause
BEACHES on the way to Castillo de la Mota, a
THE ARTS Zurriola 12th-century fort.
Victoria Eugenia Theatre The liveliest beach, between the Kursaal
Playing host to cultural events throughout the Centre and Monte Ulia, is home to surng Mount Igueldo
year, this modern performing arts theatre built competitions, beach volleyball and football. Imagine a mini Disneyland atop a hill with
in Neo-Plateresque style in 1912 is also one of the best views of the city and a rooftop
the most iconic buildings in San Sebastin. La Concha bar to soak it all in from. You can drive or
Tickets from AED 120; 0034-943-48 1160, Known as the pearl of the Cantabrian coast, ride a funicular.
victoriaeugenia.com La Concha is one of the most visited beaches Tickets from AED 10; 0034-943-21 3525,
in Spain and boasts the best bay views. monteigueldo.es
San Sebastin International Film Festival
Rub shoulders with A-list celebrities this Ondarreta WHERE TO STAY
September when one of the most important Located in the Antiguo quarter, across from Hotel Maria Cristina
international lm festivals takes place in San the island of Santa Clara, pretty Ondarreta This Belle-poque hotel opened its doors in
PHOTOS: ALAMY, VIBHA DANIA-DHAWAN

Sebastin at Kursaal Congress Centre. Since (meaning little beach in Basque) is perfect for 1912 to its rst guest, Spanish Queen Regent
its inception, actors like Elizabeth Taylor, calmer watersports like body boarding. Or while Maria Cristina. Ever since, its been the centre
Audrey Hepburn, Meryl Streep, Richard Gere away an afternoon watching sailboats pass. of many social and cultural events and the
and Brad Pitt have attended. meeting point of prominent politicians, artists
Tickets from AED 30; 0034-943-48 1212, VANTAGE POINTS and Parisian couturiers such as Coco Chanel
sansebastianfestival.com Peine del Viento (Wind Comb) and Jean Patou. Julie Andrews and Al Pacino
One of the most visited sculptures in the city, by have stayed during the lm festival.
Heineken Jazzaldia Eduardo Chillida, lies at this point with views Doubles from AED 1,060; 0034-943-43 7600,
The San Sebastin Jazz Festival, also known of the sea. Though closed until March, Tenedor hotel-mariacristina.com
as Heineken Jazzaldia, will celebrate its Tours (from AED 380 per person; 0034-943-42
51st year in July, making it one of the oldest 2163, tenedortours.com) can arrange private visits. For more on San Sebastins 2016 programme,
in Europe. Past performers have included Ella peinedelviento.info visit dss2016.eu
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 23
Rustic interiors at
Gal Oya Lodge

A Beach Villa at
Anantara Peace Haven
Tangalle Resort

HOTEL HOTSPOT
SRI LANKA
GOVIND DHAR rounds up some of the hottest hotel openings, past and future
Thanks to the end of the civil war, tourism on the island of Sri Lanka eco-luxury space, Gal Oya Lodge (from AED 570; 0094-76-842 4612,
is in rude health. In the past year alone, the south coast has seen two galoyalodge.com), a luxury-safari tented camp on 20 acres of forest near
cosy, light-lled Taru Villas (0094-11-234 0033, taruvillas.com) open in a national park east of Kandy, was launched.
the 16th-century Galle Fort at 42 Lighthouse Street (doubles from AED Looking forward, aside from projects by Shangri-La (in Hambantota
880) and 25 Rampart Street (doubles from AED 1,320) and further along, and Colombo), Sheraton and Movenpick, ITCs Colombo One and
Owl and the Pussycat (doubles from AED 880; otphotel.com) a designer- the Grand Hyatt will soon open on the capital citys prime Galle
meets-bohemian, Miami-style boutique property has opened in Face Road. Further aeld, Jetwing Jaffna (doubles from AED 800; 0094-
Thalpe. The rustic coconut-grove-surrounded Anantara Peace Haven 11-234 5720, jetwinghotels.com) is primed to be the largest hotel in the
Tangalle Resort (doubles from AED 1,200; 0094-47-224 4466, tangalle. northern peninsula; the mammoth Weligama Bay Marriott Resort &
anantara.com) opened in Tangalle (with another Anantara planned in Spa (doubles from AED 1,010; 0094-412-25 3920, weligamabayresort.com)
Kalutara for 2016) as did the sleek Ani Villas (villas from AED 17,260; is a Fibonacci-sequence-inspired eco-luxury hotel on Koggala lake;
001-718-577 1188, anivillas.com) by Reda Amalou in Dickwella, while and The Fort Bazaar (0094-77-363 8381, srilankacollection.com), a
Uga Escapes Chena Huts (doubles from AED 3,010; 0094-11-233 1322, tastefully chic 18-room boutique hotel with a spa and cinema room,
ugaescapes.com/chenahuts) just opened in Yala National Park. In the will open on the island, too.

MILESTONE MARKERS
HAWAII
A urry of big anniversaries
make 2016 the year to say aloha
to the volcanic archipelago, says
JENNY JOHNSON

Hawaii has long attracted travellers thanks to


its pristine beaches, tropical foliage, rugged
cliffs and dramatic waterfalls, but theres never
been a better time to explore the Aloha State.
Parades and performances will commemorate
the 75th anniversary of the attack on Pearl
Harbour later this year, while two of the
archipelagos top attractions Haleakala
The beautiful Haleakala National Park and Volcanoes National Park
National Park celebrates
100 years in 2016 (nps.gov/hi) will be hosting a range of events
and exhibitions to celebrate their centenary.
24 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
WHERE TO GO IN 2016
The Gangnam District
is the heart of Seouls
fashion scene

Printed streetwear
by Steve J &
Yoni P at Seoul
Fashion Week J Koos
tailored styles
on the runway Beyond Closet by Tae Yongs
at Seoul colourful unisex designs.
Fashion Week Above: The designer

Suecomma
Bonnies
quirky
footwear is
a hit with
Korean stars

FOCUS ON FASHION
SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA
This Asian city has emerged as an innovative style leader, with global designers now looking
east for inspiration. JENNY JOHNSON lists top fashion names to know

J KOO SUECOMMA BONNIE


Named the womenswear winner of 2015/16s International A favourite among Korean celebrities and K-pop stars, Bonnie
Woolmark Prize for the Asia region, designers Jinwoo-Choi and Lees quirky, Pop Art-inspired footwear is handmade with materials
Yeonjoo-Koo will battle it out for the top prize next month. from Italy and her designs are stocked at top department stores
Regulars on the stages of Seoul Fashion Week, they have also like Harvey Nichols and Galeries Lafayette, and at online retailers
showcased their contemporary tailoring around the world, from such as shopbop.com.
Paris and Singapore to Hong Kong and Tokyo. suecommabonnie.com
studiojkoo.com
BEYOND CLOSET BY TAE YONG
PHOTOS: CORBIS, ALAMY

STEVE J & YONI P This preppy label started as a menswear line, but after
Trained in the UK Yoni at London College of Fashion and Steve discovering that many of his customers were women including
at Central Saint Martins the designers create colourful, printed model and actress Lee Sung-kyung the designer took it unisex.
streetwear from their studio in Gangnam in the heart of downtown Showing at New York Fashion Week as part of the Concept Korea
Seoul. Stocked at Opening Ceremony and net-a-porter.com, they platform, Beyond Closet was also named a cult Korean designer
have also collaborated with the likes of Topshop and LOral. by vogue.com last year.
stevejandyonip.com beyondcloset.com
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 25
OPINION

The Travel
Connoisseur
On embracing the wellness holiday

I
t was the eve of Paris Fashion Week
when The Travel Connoisseur walked

ILLUSTRATION: GRANT COWAN/EYECANDYILLUSTRATION.COM


into his suite at Avenue Montaigne and
found an envelope waiting for him. There
was, according to the note inside, a change
of plans in his itinerary for the next day:
forgoing all other activities, arrangements
had been made for TTC to spend the entire
morning in the hotels spa.
While many would feel elevated with
unfettered joy and anticipation at such news,
this was not TTCs idea of the ideal scenario.
Despite his sybaritic image, somewhere deep Detoxing is good,
down he was rather suspicious of pampering
without apparent measureable benets. Of all but planning
the various spa treatments he had a soft spot secret escapes
only for hammams, which he booked himself
into with military regularity several times a adds a bit of spice
week though he also believed, theoretically,
in the scientic spas of Switzerland. Singing
to the adventure
Himalayan bowls, energy-infused crystals and
rainbow light therapies, on the other hand, The rst dinner was memorable. In an through the palace gardens, he heard peals
seemed romantic but remained, in his mind, elegant dining room, waiters served tiny of suppressed, wicked laugher coming from
quite questionable in terms of effectiveness. portions of light soups and salad leaves, the terrace. He approached carefully and
Nevertheless, when the morning rolled explaining each course as if it represented discovered two of the European grande dames
around, TTC descended into the basement the epitome of culinary achievement. The arguing over which of the Merano restaurants
where the spa was hidden. Won over, assembled guests a mixed crowd of exhausted offered the best pasta and which one had
tentatively, by the chic Trianon grey interiors Russian oligarchs and sun-drenched European better tartufo di Alba. It has become our
designed by an iconic Parisian fashion house, grande dames were trying their best to believe. bi-annual tradition, explained one of the
he found himself further convinced on meeting Traditional salt and pepper were replaced conspirators as TTC joined them. Detoxing
his therapist, who looked like a sharp couturier, with herbs; agave syrup presented a healthier is good, but planning secret escapes adds a
wearing a tailored white uniform and glasses alternative to honey. At the end of the evening, bit of spice to the adventure.
rather than a oral sarong. Minutes later, TTC found himself sitting at the bar which By the end of the week, TTC had made
as TTC closed his eyes and the treatment offered 25 types of herbal infusions playing new friends, all partners in crime who knew
commenced, he found himself transported back chess with another slightly bored guest. At a few the difference between tagliatelle, pappardelle
to the week he had once spent in Merano in minutes to nine oclock, the palaces unofcial and fettuccine, and the addresses of all the
Italy, where hed submitted willingly to being bedtime hour, a waiter reminded TTC about top oenothques and trattorias around. Yet
locked in a luxurious palace for a strict detox, the special salts he had to take before going to he still felt rejuvenated and fresh because a
surrounded as he was here by academic- sleep. Stay close to your room once youve healthy dose of adrenaline in the right setting
looking wellness professionals in white garb. taken these salts, advised the fellow prisoner is just as good as losing the kilograms. Did
Soaring high above a northern Italian lake of the palace, with an inscrutable smile. The the owner of the wellness haven realise that
with a breathtaking panorama of the Alps, night that followed was indeed restless as the his palace was surrounded by such great
the palace was a true sanctuary of health. The body was released of some of its toxins. institutions of Italian cuisine? Or perhaps it
proprietor promptly conscated the entourage Barely awake the next morning, TTC was always his intention to provide an element
of bottled vintages that arrived together with rejoined his new comrades at breakfast. The of danger, to keep it interesting.
TTC as he explained what the following Alpine setting screamed for croissants, artisan A few generous spritzes of TTCs favourite
week would include: a full-body screening, a cheeses, butter and jams yet before them perfume brought him ying back to the
wide array of hydrotherapies, lots of walking were a few slices of fruit accompanied by present, and signalled the conclusion of the
and 3,000 calories in all, stretched over ve another watery herbal infusion. massage at the Parisian hotel spa. He was
days. Never advanced in mathematics, TTC Time seemed to stand still in this temple back in the city of lights, feeling surprisingly
still managed to calculate that it meant a of health and scientic wellness. TTC had refreshed and ready for the day at fashion week.
600-calories-a-day diet. To avoid any cheating, never felt enlightened enough for yoga, Had he become a wellness convert? Perhaps
all the minibar in his suite had on offer was opting instead for the more traditional jogging not quite, he mused, as his mind wandered to
two small bottles of mineral water. followed by a walk in the park. As he strolled the vintages waiting in his suite.

26 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


CALENDAR

JANUARY
What in the world is happening this month

The winter wonderland of


the Harbin International
Ice and Snow Festival

5-February 25 night therapy clinic or Book Caf. Spieth, Rory Mcllroy and Rickie Fowler.
WHERE Harbin Free workshops; 00358-9-3103 6815, HOW Check in to The Westin Abu Dhabi
WHAT Marvel at life-size illuminated ice luxhelsinki. Golf Resort & Spa and catch the action from
sculptures, reworks displays, ice-lantern the comfort of your private balcony.
exhibitions and winter sports at the Harbin 16-24 Doubles from AED 1,740; 00971-2-616 9999,
International Ice and Snow Festival in China. WHERE Singapore westinabudhabigolfresort.com
HOW Dine at Ice Palace at the Shangri-La WHAT With over 80 visual arts events
Hotel, Harbin, a restaurant created entirely ranging from exhibitions, gallery openings, 23-February 7
from frozen water. Keep warm with hot pot performances and lm screenings to WHERE Madrid
dishes and hot drinks from the Ice Bar. art tours and discussion panels taking WHAT Gastrofestival Madrid
Hot pot dishes from AED 150; drinks place across a series of landmark venues, (gastrofestivalmadrid.com) returns
from AED 25; 0086-451-8485 8888, Singapore Art Week (artweek.sg) attracts to the Spanish capital with events like
shangri-la.com/harbin leading regional and international talent. Sensory Experiences, offering food
HOW Dont miss Art After Dark at Gillman prep masterclasses and tastings, while
5-10 Barracks, an enclave of contemporary art Gastroculture features culinary exhibitions,
WHERE Helsinki galleries housed in a former military camp. lectures, workshops and concerts hosted
WHAT Lux Helsinki is a showcase of Enjoy an evening of live music, pop-up food by Madrids leading art galleries, museums
WORDS: NADA BOKHOWA; PHOTO: CORBIS

light and media installations in the city stalls and art shows on January 22. and cultural institutions.
centre during the darkest time of the Free admission; gillmanbarracks.com HOW Emirates (emirates.com), Etihad
year. Highlights include Color Park, a light (etihad.com) and Qatar Airways
installation that visitors can play with using 21-24 (qatarairways.com) y direct from the
motion and proximity sensors, and the WHERE Abu Dhabi GCC to Madrid.
3D animation Megamap, projected on the WHAT Part of the European Tours
Helsinki Cathedral bell tower to the strains Desert Swing, the Abu Dhabi HSBC Golf
of classical music. Championship (abudhabigolfchampionship. BOOK NOW FOR...
HOW Participate in the Valoleikkipuisto com) draws the sports biggest names for FEBRUARY 28 Seychelles
(light playground) workshop at the four days of competition. The 11th edition, Eco-friendly Marathon, Mah
Annantalo Arts Centre, where you can taking place at Abu Dhabi Golf Club, seychelles-marathon.com
paint with lights, then relax in the polar features a stellar line-up including Jordan

28 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


Q&A

AROUND THE WORLD WITH... Ramsay found


Amanjena in
Marrakech incredible

Gordon Ramsay
The celebrity chef, who recently launched his restaurant
Bread Street Kitchen in Dubai, on where hes had his
best meal and the hottest new destination for foodies

Whats a hot foodie destination right now?


We recently opened a restaurant in
Bordeaux, as did Jol Robuchon, and Alain
Ducasse announced he is opening there, too.
It has exploded in the last 18 months youre
two hours from the Basque Country and
have the most beautiful coastline. Yes, its
notorious for incredible grape but its also
now a foodie hotspot.

A destination that most lived up to the hype?


Fresh market I lmed Gordons Great Escape in Vietnam
produce in and had a great time. The food was
Hoi An, Vietnam excellent and not just from the Portuguese
and French inuences. It was so nice
cooking with no dairy and buying fresh
produce twice a day. We lived with a
family up in the villages and really got
off the tourist track.
Where in the world have you had
your best meal? Your must-have travel items?
It was on my rst big date with my wife, fe, Swimming goggles and trunks. I nd
Tana. I was in Nice and she came down n the fastest way to get over jet lag is to
for the weekend, so I took her to dinner er go for a swim. Most hotels have a pool
at Alain Ducasses restaurant Le Louis and Im always the rst in even before
XV. We shared the most amazing lobster ster my case is in the room.
sitting on the terrace on one of those
perfect summer nights. Whenever we go What do you enjoy most about the UAE?
back there, which we do every couple e of I fell in love with the region many years ago.
years, its just as unspoiled as it was 20
0 Theres a great love of fast cars and Im a bit
years ago. I set the standard way too The food in Vietnam was of a car freak I bring my Ferrari out when
high too early, though. excellent. We lived with I visit as the roads are extraordinary. I got
into triathlons about three years ago and
Whats your earliest travel memory?
a family up in the villages Ive heard that theres an ofcial Ironman
INTERVIEW: JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTO: CORBIS

I went to work for Albert Roux in the and really got off the in Dubai this year, which Im excited about.
south of France at a little place called tourist track I have done some amazing dives and the
Hotel Diva, a boutique property perched weather is always guaranteed. You can go
up on the mountain between the French like cramming 20 years of skiing holidays for a long weekend and it feels like youve
and Italian border. Its where I had my into six months. I never wanted it to end. been on holiday for 10 days. Few places in
training period. I spent six months perfecting the world can deliver that.
my French, skiing every day and working A hotel thats knocked your socks off?
every night. We built a little community Amanjena in Marrakech. David Beckham Whats on your bucket list?
and I think those types of things happen celebrated his 40th birthday there last year To race at the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix in my
only once or twice in your life. It was my and it was incredible. Its Mediterranean- LaFerrari. Ive got the car so Im halfway there.
rst big adventure, as my parents never meets-Middle East, with stunning fortress-like
had the money to y anywhere so we never buildings, an amazing mountain backdrop Bread Street Kitchen is located at Atlantis,
went on a holiday outside the UK. It was and beautiful sunsets. Just mind-blowing. The Palm, Dubai

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 29


HIGHWAY
TO (SKI)
HEAVEN
I
The Powder Highway t starts out as youd hope. Leaving Vancouver improbable passes, joining the dots between
behind on a road trip into the inner reaches serene backcountry towns such as Rossland,
in British Columbia of British Columbia (BC) and Alberta, Nelson and Revelstoke. Places that top
is the stuff of dreams a number of things strike you. First, the
mountain ranges, with such enigmatic names
many a pro skiers bucket list.

for big mountain skiers as Valhalla, Monashee, Selkirk and Bugaboos, ON THE ROAD
peering imperviously from the horizon. TO RED MOUNTAIN
and snowboarders. Then there are the views of vermillion- Break up the long journey from Vancouver to
MIKE MACEACHERAN coloured lakes and star-studded skies, Red Mountain (001-250-362 7384, redresort.com),
endless as the heavens. Such landscapes the Powder Highways unofcial starting point,
drives through the are the stock in trade of the Powder Highway, with a layover in the Okanagan Valley, a place
a loosely connecting series of roads, cosy where theres a vineyard around every corner.
Canadian interior in winter resorts and ski areas in south-east BC. The valley is a mix of crystalline mountain
search of immaculate The highways furrow and carve their way lakes, pillowy hills and vine-strangled farms,
through glacial valleys, along the bottom of and the main town, Kelowna, has become the
powder and endless sky deep, birch-lined canyons and up and over most planted and preened patchwork strip of

30 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


CANADA

Pass through the Bugaboos


mountain range on a road
trip from Vancouver to the
Powder Highway

These highways furrow and carve


their way through glacial valleys,
Red Mountain is said to be and up and over improbable
the starting point of the
Powder Highway. Opposite:
A skier hits the slopes at
passes, joining the dots between
the Red Mountain Resort serene backcountry towns
real estate in western Canada. In the summer 250-362 7323, theyingsteamshovel.com), a you. It waits in the Ymir Bowl, at the end of
farmers make white and red grape, but in the historic Cheers-style inn where everyone the road hidden by the Selkirk Mountains, a
chill of winter, when snowdrifts can reach wants to know your name. snow globe of horizon-crunching peaks and
up to 15m, they work the grape harvest into evergreen rs turned milky-white. In a place
stunning iced apritifs. Its been called the NEXT STOP, NELSON like this, a trip to the top of the mountain on
new Napa for good reason. Drop your gaze from the Monashee one of three rudimentary chairlifts takes on
Two restaurants and graperies to try are Mountains that frame Rosslands skyline and an existential kind of enormity. Up here,
Mission Hill (grape tasting, AED 30; 001- youll nd yourself on the Crowsnest Highway, you feel giddy just thinking about whats
250-768 7611, missionhillwinery.com), an along which a three-hour drive brings you to suddenly possible.
architectural delight crowned by a Tuscan- Nelson, a higgedly-piggedly former mining
style bell tower, and Summerhill Pyramid town beside Kootenay Lake. OFF-PISTE IN REVELSTOKE
Winery (grape tasting, AED 30; 001-250- Its an unsung wonder in this remote part Back on the Trans-Canada Highway,
764 8000, summerhill.bc.ca), an organic of British Columbia, populated by bohemian- after crossing Upper Arrow Lake by ferry
grapery thats home to a fused frame style cafs, craft microbreweries like the from Nakusp the road ends at Revelstoke
pyramid-shaped cellar. Nelson Brewing Company (001-250-352 3582, Mountain Resort (001-250-814 0087,
Should you be itching to hit the slopes nelsonbrewing.com), and rock n roll bingo nights revelstokemountainresort.com), a ski resort with
before leaving, Kelowna sits in the shadow at the historic Hume Hotel (001-250-352 5331, more vertical than anywhere else in North
of family-friendly Big White (001-250-765 humehotel.com). Opening the door here feels America. Such qualities make it the epicentre
3101, bigwhite.com), a ski resort as famous for like stepping into a Wild West comic walls of every big mountain adventure you can
its husky rides, tubing and snowmobile tours are adorned with antiques and sepia photos, imagine. Winter-sports addicts max out their
as it is for backcountry skiing. and the restaurant is decorated like a general credit cards while chasing tufts of powder
From here, a half day of driving brings you store lifted straight from a cowboy lm. Its a and impossibly blue skies on adventures with
PHOTOS: ALAMY

to Powder Highway proper and Rossland, a time capsule of sorts, a legacy owed to the gold Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing (001-250-837
quaint toy town characterised by snow-covered and silver rush of the 1860s that saw the towns 5378, selkirk-tangiers.com) or CMH (001-403-
trees, goggle-tanned locals and smart-saloon Baker and Vernon Streets go from bust to boom. 762 7100, canadianmountainholidays.com). Its so
hotels. The pick of these is The Flying Beyond Nelson, Whitewater Ski Resort popular the valley seems to be soundtracked by
Steamshovel (doubles from AED 260; 001- (001-250-354 4944, skiwhitewater.com) ambushes the non-stop buzz from overhead rotor blades.

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 31


CANADA
Eagles Eye Restaurant at the
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort
is the highest in Canada. Left:
A window nook in the Royal
Suite at Fairmont Banff Springs

Stop off at the vineyards


in the Okanagan Valley

Its so perfect it looks like a


vintage postcard stuck to a
refrigerator: jagged peaks,
frozen lakes, snow white rs
all the clichs are in place
Near the base of the mountain, Revelstoke From here, you have the choice of heading those weary muscles (from AED 20; 001-403-
town is prime aprs-ski territory, a collection east into Alberta or south to the resorts of 762 1515, hotsprings.ca).
of restaurants and bars where men have Kimberley (001-250-427 4881, skikimberley.com), Ultimately, all roads lead to the landmark
summit gleams in their eyes and girls have yeti Panorama (001-250-342 6941, panoramaresort. Fairmont Banff Springs (doubles from AED
hair sticking out from their beanie hats. For com) and Fernie Alpine Resort (001-250-423 1,040; 001-403-762 2211, fairmont.com/banff-
nighttime antics, check out the Village Idiot 4655, skifernie.com). Given the right conditions springs), a tribute to the old-fashioned days of
Bar and Grill (entres from AED 25; 001-250-837 and a few spare days, you could be lucky the Canadian Pacic Railway that was built to
6240, thevillageidiot.ca) for diner-style burgers enough to ski them all. lure the rst travellers from the once richer east
and pizzas, or River City Pub (entres from AED coast. A cross between a Tudor hall and Scottish
15; 001-250-837 2107, regenthotel.ca), inside the CHECKING IN TO BANFF baronial manor, it offers comforts of the highest
Regent Hotel, to disco dance to Daft Punk in Crossing into Alberta brings you to Banff, a place order. The fabulous turret rooms have an eagle-
your ski boots. For something more rened, so perfect it looks like a vintage postcard stuck eyed perspective of Mount Rundle, an angular
make reservations at the hotels 112 Restaurant to a refrigerator: jagged peaks, frozen lakes, slab of rock and limestone crags described as
and Lounge (entres from AED 20; 001-250-837 snow-white rs all the clichs are in place. Canadas bread and butter mountain. Its one
2107, regenthotel.ca), where farm-to-fork cuisine Despite its antique weirdness, like youll never tire of looking at.
is a speciality think BC salmon, Albertan stepping back in time, it remains a natural
steak and Pacic lobster.
A few days later, across the Rogers Pass, the
playground of mammoth proportions take
your pick from Mount Norquay for skiing
Getting there
Emirates (emirates.com) and Etihad (etihad.
road splits in two at the town of Golden where (001-403-762 4421, winter.banffnorquay.com),
com) y direct from the GCC to Toronto
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort houses the Banff Tours for snowshoeing or dogsledding
from where Air Canada (aircanada.com)
highest restaurant in Canada (set menu from (from AED 180; 001-403-760 5007, banfftours.
ies direct to Vancouver
AED 30; 001-250-439 5425, kickinghorseresort.com). com) or Banff Upper Hot Springs for soaking

32 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


SLUG

WORD
OF MOUTH
MALDIVES  YANGON  MATTHEW RHYS  MORE TRAVEL NEWS

WORDS: JENNY KING, LAUREL MUNSHOWER

34 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


SLUG
Watch the Royal Salute
UAE Nations Cup action
in Dubai this month

The pursuit of polo


From Buenos Aires to Barbados, the sport of kings takes place in some of
the worlds most spectacular spots. Here, some of this years cant-miss games
WHAT: Royal Salute UAE Nations Cup 2016 WHAT: Jaeger-LeCoultre Gold Cup
WHERE: PER AQUUM Desert Palm, WHERE: Cowdray Park Polo Club,
Dubai, UAE Midhurst, UK
WHY: The soothing green scene of Desert WHY: Set amidst Viscount Cowdrays
Palm resort is where the action kicks off this 16,500-acre West Sussex estate, which also
month as world-renowned players compete boasts a cricket square and castle ruins, the
for this prestigious cup. The quality of the multi-million-pound British Open sees the
talent is only rivalled by the exclusivity of nest ponies and players compete in front
the guest list as the polo circuit cognoscenti of a huge, vocal crowd.
WORDS: JENNY KING, LAUREL MUNSHOWER

gather to cheer on favourites during chukkas. WHEN: Final on July 17; cowdray.co.uk
WHEN: January 29; desertpalm.peraquum.com
WHAT: Argentine Open
WHAT: Barbados Open WHERE: Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
WORDS: NATASHA FARUQUE

WHERE: Apes Hill Polo Club, Barbados WHY: The fth oldest in the world, this
WHY: The Caribbean spirit, enlivened by steel tournament is a pilgrimage for serious polo
drums, makes this idyllic setting a must-do for professionals as it boasts the highest number
fans of the sport. The tournament runs into of best-in-the-world, 10-goal players battling it
the evening, and as the sun dips into the sea it out on the eld. The stylish post-play parties,
becomes amply clear why Sir Charles attended by fans who look like theyve just
Williams club is one to tick off the list. stepped off a catwalk, are an added draw.
WHEN: Final on March 17; apeshillpolo.com WHEN: Final on December 3; aapolo.com

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 35


2 MINUTES WITH...
Sonu
Shivdasani
The founder and CEO
of Soneva, a pioneer
in sustainable luxury
hotels, on new launches
and travel thats good
for the soul

Tell us about your new concept Soneva in Aqua.


Setting sail from Soneva Fushi in the Maldives
Baa Atoll, Soneva in Aqua is a fully staffed entry-
level mega yacht that affords you privacy but with
the service and standards of our resorts. With just
two cabins, guests benet from a crew of six, a
private spa therapist, a dive instructor, a Mr. Friday
butler and a dedicated chef. Theres four hours of
cruising per day plus water sports and half-board The sophisticated
including grape, with menus created by Soneva interiors of Redbird
Fushis executive chef and his team. In the master
bedroom, the oor slides back for better viewing
of the marine world below. The return of the sexy dining room
What else is on the horizon? Downtown LAs Redbird puts elegant design back on the menu

A
Were going to do two more boat concepts in the fter suffering massive damage
Maldives and then we plan to launch in Oman, in the 1994 Northridge SIX MORE BLISSFULLY
Japan, Ibiza and Bali over the coming years. earthquake, the Italianate GROWN-UP
Musandam is appealing because it combines the Cathedral of St. Vibiana, once the seat RESTAURANTS
remoteness of Oman with easy access to Dubai. We of Los Angeles Catholic archdiocese,
also have Soneva Jani, a new resort on a lagoon in is now home to one of the citys best The Continental, Hong Kong
the Maldives. There will be 24 water villas and the

WORDS: LAURENCE LOWE; INTERVIEW: JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTOS: BILL CURRY, MICHAEL DOSTER
restaurants. Redbird (entres from Entres from AED 40;
nearest land is half a kilometre away so youre totally AED 25; 001-213-788 1191, redbird.la), 00852-2704 5211
detached. There are four undeveloped islands to which chef Neal Fraser and his thecontinentalhongkong.com
explore as well as the main island which houses the wife, Amy Knoll Fraser, opened in
clubhouse and the beach villas. The main bedroom the former rectory, centres around Gabriel Kreuther, New York
roof in each villa slides back, so you can see the a stunning courtyard dining room Set menu, AED 420;
stars, and theres a water slide into the Indian Ocean. dressed in custom-built, elegantly 001-212-257 5826, gknyc.com
modern furnishings. The decidedly
Whats your idea of a perfect trip? grown-up aesthetic reminds us Mourad, San Francisco
I like to discover new things its very important that a polished atmosphere is every Entres from AED 20; 001-415-
for the soul. The food has to be good not bit as important as the quality of 660 2500, mouradsf.com
necessarily chichi or posh, just good. In Florence a restaurants food: The interior
I love the simple trattorias and great grape. purposely avoids the sort of rugged Spoon and Stable,
soneva.com industrial chic thats come to dene Minneapolis
every farm-to-table place not just Entres from AED 35;
Explore the west of Brooklyn but around the 001-612-224 9850,
Maldives aboard
Soneva in Aqua world. And the menu is equally spoonandstable.com
impressive, blending deceptively
simple renditions of American staples Spring, London
(chicken pot pie, dry-aged rib eye) Entres from AED 80;
with clever takes on LAs global food 0044-20-3011 0115,
mix (roasted bone marrow with black springrestaurant.co.uk
garlic aioli and spicy kimchi). Amy
and I were trying to design a space Vaucluse, New York
thats more reective of our age and Entres from AED 60;
demographic, Neal says. You want 001-646-869 2300,
to be able to have a conversation with vauclusenyc.com
the person across the table.

36 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


WORD OF MOUTH
TECH CHECK The lit fest will take

The fast and the curious place at the historic


Galle Fort
These futuristic forms of transport, once perfected,
could make travelling a breeze
Imagine travelling from Dubai to Abu Dhabi in just 15
minutes, or from New York to London in an hour. The brains
behind a new wave of futuristic transport systems are
hoping to make this a reality in the not-too-distant future.

Hyperloop
Backed by SpaceX CEO Elon Musk, this supersonic train
could travel up to 1,200km per hour through a sealed
tube, which is pumped permanently to remove air and,
thus, resistance. Track testing begins in California this year,
and the UAE, with its at, open landscapes, has been
earmarked as a potential destination ahead of 2020.

Maglev
Japans new passenger train set a world record with a Bookmark this
speed of 603kmph last year in trials and is scheduled to Back after three years, the Fairway Galle
begin service in 2027. Named for magnetic levitation Literary Festival is but another excuse to
where the carriages hover over the tracks, suspended by visit Sri Lankas postcard-pretty beaches. A
powerful magnets the train is expected to connect Tokyo cosy collection of some of the worlds nest
literary minds descends upon a 16th-century
and Osaka in around one hour. The train is also being
Dutch fort in the seaside town, lling it with
developed in America, for routes between Washington
discussion and debate. Amidst musical and
DC and New York City, after the Japanese prime minister theatrical performances, architectural walks
gifted the country with the technology. and childrens events, the festival has welcomed
the likes of Tom Stoppard, Richard Dawkins and
Gore Vidal. This year, Sebastian Faulks, George
Soros, Claudia Rankine, Mark Tully, Jeet Thayil
and Pulitzer Prize-winning poet Gregory
WORDS: JENNY JOHNSON, GOVIND DHAR; ILLUSTRATIONS: SABINA PARKINSON

Pardlo will be speaking at the revived event,


Concorde-2 not to mention august Sri Lankan authors
Although yet to be built, Airbus has patented a new plane, Shyam Selvadurai and Shehan Karunatilaka.
The festival will also award the prestigious
which features turbojets, ramjets and a rocket motor that
AED 183,000 DSC Prize for South Asian
will transport 20 passengers from New York to London Literature, as well as the inaugural Fairway
in an hour almost three times as fast as the supersonic From top: Authors Claudia
National Literary Award. Rankine and Shehan
Concorde jet, which made its nal ight in 2003. January 13-17, galleliteraryfestival.com Karunatilaka will speak
at the event

Wrap it up
The vibrant street art of Melbournes Hosier Lane and
the citys creative food scene have been translated into
an oversized cashmere-blend scarf by Aussie brand
Bird & Knoll in collaboration with national carrier Scarf, AED 785,
Bird & Knoll
Qantas and their trend consultant Jessica Hart. The x Qantas
limited edition accessory is available in-ight handy x Jessica Hart

for when the cabin gets chilly and online.


Colourful parasols at
Bogyoke Aung San
Market. Right: Belmond
Governors Residence

WHATS HOT IN YANGON


LAURA GRIFFITH-JONES hunts down the newest and most noteworthy contributors to Myanmars largest city
SLEEP nightfall, it becomes a moody, swinging den, SNACK
The citys hottest new boutique hideaway, with blues singing out on the grand piano. Myanmar is famous for its atmospheric
The Loft Hotel, is ideally situated within Must-try dishes include eggplant salad, beef traditional tea shops. Of these, Lucky
walking distance of the gleaming golden with yoghurt and raisins, and pumpkin curry. Seven is a relaxed downtown spot to
Shwedagon Pagoda. Its 32 pared-back Entres from AED 15; 0095-1-52 5195, taste mohinga (a traditional sh breakfast
rooms and suites are cosy yet chic, with houseofmemoriesmyanmar.com stew), kaw ye noodles and savoury
black-and-white photographs of Myanmar buns, all washed down with a cup of
adorning red-brick walls. Shan Yoe Yar may lack the atmosphere, but steaming green tea.
Doubles from AED 610; 0095-92-5722 3798, it serves hard-to-beat Shan delicacies in a Snacks from AED 1; 0095-129 2382
theloftyangon.com 100-year-old house. Be sure you tuck into an
oversized Mine Thauk eggplant curry. For a touch of glamour, try Acacia Tea
Belmond Governors Residence is Yangons Entres from AED 10; 0095-1-22 1524 Salon, a ptisserie serving an array of
most famous hotel. Its an oasis just north decadent desserts. You could be in
of downtown, with immaculate lawns, a DRINK France, almost.
lagoon-like swimming pool and a spa that The best place to sip a cocktail or two is Desserts from AED 10; 0095-155 4739,
uses organic traditional ingredients. the rooftop Vista Bar, which has superlative acaciateasalon.com
Doubles from AED 2,020; 0095-1-22 9860, views of the cityscape and the Shwedagon
belmond.com Pagoda, stunningly illuminated at night. SHOP
Cocktails from AED 10; 0095-1-55 9481 Youll need at least a morning to do
EAT justice to the labyrinthine Bogyoke
Buried behind a sea of street stalls, Feel Another fail-safe establishment is Union Bar Aung San Market, a vast covered space
Myanmar Food is a top lunch spot. & Grill on the Strand, serving an array of selling everything from jewellery and
Choose from an assortment of Burmese stirred, shaken and sparkling cocktails. fabrics to lacquerware and mother-
specialities from succulent sticky pork Cocktails from AED 20; 0095-9250-35 of-pearl bowls.
chunks to prawns fried in tomatoes and 5064, unionyangon.com bogyokeaungsanmarket.com
chillis with steamed greens.
Entres from AED 10; 0095-1-511 6872, The citys newest haunt is The Blind Make a difference by shopping at boutique
feelrestaurant.com Tiger, a groovy, speakeasy-themed bar, store Pomelo, whose mission is to promote
where all the cool kids congregate when marginalised local producers. From
Everything about House of Memories, set in the evening closes in. glassware to papier mch toys, something
a charming mock-Tudor villa, is tasteful. At Cocktails from AED 25; 0095-138 8488, is bound to catch your eye.
lunch its an airy (for Yangon) terrace. Come blindtiger-yangon.com 0095-129 5358, pomeloyangon.com

38 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


WORD OF MOUTH
UNDER THE GRILL
spinach and homemade paneer, topped with
Matthew Rhys an egg and gunpowder sauce.
Signature dish? Every March, a group of us
The Welsh star of The Americans and get together to roast a whole lamb basted
Brothers & Sisters plays a top chef in heavily in salmuera (brine). Eaten with hulks
his latest lm, Burnt. He picks his of bread and lashings of red grape, its an
epicurean experience.
real-life foodie greats Go-to drink? It depends on my mood, the
Splurge treat? As soon as I land at London temperature and the time of year. Favourites
Heathrow I head straight to Dean Street are a pint of dark Irish hops, Ctes du Rhne
Townhouse in Soho, where I gorge on the kind grape or Penderyn malt from Wales.
of traditional British classics I cant nd in New Food to y for? Patagonia for the beef
York. But for old-school elegance, I like The and, even more so, the lamb cooked over a
Wolseley on Piccadilly. It has the glamour to re, asado-style.
make you want to put on a suit and order Strangest sip? Mares milk in Mongolia
something special at the bar before it actually got me merry as it
dinner. But its also relaxed enough was fermented.
for Sunday brunch with a cocktail Desert island ingredients? Good
and a newspaper. coffee, harissa and Maldon sea salt.
Street eat? Theres a food Guilty pleasure? Take a frozen
truck called Dosa Royale at the Snickers ice cream bar, microwave
Smorgasburg food market in it just enough to melt the
Brooklyn that is worth crossing chocolate, sprinkle with sea salt
the Atlantic for. They do all sorts of Dont miss the dosa and dont tell anyone. Including
dosa, from classic curried potato to at Smorgasburg your arteries.
market in Brooklyn

Release any stress at


Rage Room in Toronto
Evil eye jewels
Pieces that cast a protective spell
INTERVIEW: FIONA KERR; WORDS: JENNY JOHNSON, JESSICA DIAMOND; PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, CORBIS

Angry tears
earrings in gold
and gemstones,
AED 26,450, Pear Henna ring in gold,
Ileana Makri tsavorites and cognac
diamonds, price on
request, Ana de Costa

TREND ALERT

All the rage


Scream, smash and even sledgehammer your way
to inner peace in an anger management room
Forget yoga and meditation. The a sledgehammer or club, while at
latest anti-stress solution is demolition Rage Room (from AED 74; 001-647-
therapy. Let it all out with a screaming 800 6977, battlesports.ca/rage-room)
session at Tantrum Club (AED 700 in Toronto, you can trash wooden
per person; 0044-14-4444 9191, furniture and glassware with a baseball
hshotels.co.uk) in Ockenden Manor bat and take home the footage from
Hotel & Spa, West Sussex, or feel your the security camera. At Anger Room
stress ebb away with therapeutic plate (from AED 90; 001-214-431 5587,
smashing at The Venting Place (from angerroom.com) in Texas, you can
AED 15) in Tokyo. Moscow-based even destroy mocked-up rooms that
company Desbosh (from AED 590; simulate your workplace, helping to Mythology Hand of
Fatima Amulet in gold,
007-495-120 0494, debosh.me) release any bottled-up ofce anxiety. diamonds, sapphires Amulette de Cartier ring
offers trashing rooms where You might just want to leave that last and pearls, AED 9,940, in gold, lapis lazuli and
customers can smash up a room with one off your Instagram. Annoushka diamond, AED 23,000,
Cartier
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 39
WORDS: FIONA KERR, EMILY MATHIESON; PHOTOS: CORBIS, ALAMY
OUT
OF THE
WOODS
Chef Kenneth Hansens
winning dish of hops-
marinated lamb with
salted vegetables at
the Sol over Gudhjem
competition 2014

Its not just Swedens SWEDEN THE STAR CHEF Daniel Berlins cottage
SKNE restaurant, Daniel Berlin Krog i Skne Trans,
Favken luring THE AREA The rolling green hills, farmsteads seats just 14 and epitomises the Skne
foodies away from and castles of the southern Swedish coast
have seen Skne likened to Tuscany. Beyond
mood. Starters are served in the garden; most
ingredients from hackberries to celeriac are
Scandinavias cities. the main town of Malm, which gained three
Michelin-starred restaurants in the Nordic
grown on the three-acre site. Hes tipped as
the successor to Ren Redzepi from Noma
A new breed of rural Cities 2015 guide, this is a region of artisan and is bringing his food to a wider audience,
producers. Old farms are being transformed into planning events like last months The Guest
restaurants is bringing organic bistros, like eco estate ngavallen. Series at Lyles in Londons Shoreditch.
THE INGREDIENTS Dill and cucumber are Set menu from AED 280; 0046-417-2 0300,
New Nordic cuisine standouts. And simple foodstuffs grains and danielberlin.se
STAY A 25-minute drive from Daniel Berlins
to the fore lamb form the basis of hearty but unfussy
cuisine. Regional ice grape is the worlds best. eponymous restaurant is Karlaby Kro, a

40 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


FOOD

Left: Chef Daniel Berlin of Daniel Berlin Krog i Skne Trans restaurant in
Sweden. Below: Gammel Skagen, Denmark

stuffed with shrimp, black bread and dill.


Entres from AED 65; 0047-55-08 4240,
www.bekkjarvikgjestgiveri.no
STAY In the guest house above the restaurant:
the rooms are old-fashioned but have
amazing sea views.
Doubles from AED 790
DENMARK
NORTH JUTLAND
THE AREA The countrys northernmost
region a land of windswept, grass-fringed
beaches and organic farms is the base of
all Nordic cuisine, says local chef Morten
Nielsen of Mortens Kro. And it seems the
areas fresh, salty avours are in the blood of
Chefs are keeping it many of the countrys most accomplished
local with ingredients chefs. The star-making ability of the cooking
grown on site. Left: Enjoy school in Aalborg has helped fuel the areas
fresh Danish oysters in
North Jutland rise along with a boom in restaurants dotted
along seaside villages and towns.
THE INGREDIENTS Limfjord oysters are
farmhouse-turned-inn with an excellent winner of last years Bocuse dOr (the culinary world-famous, says Nielsen. Mushrooms
restaurant, 22 bedrooms around a courtyard version of the Olympics), is drawing a new from Rold forest are the king of fungi
and a spa in the old orangery. type of visitor to his just-about-secret restaurant and local spirit Aalborg Akvavit is served
Doubles from AED 950; 0046-414-2 0300, Bekkjarvik Gjestgiveri. Its off the beaten track across Denmark.
karlabykro.se but accessible by boat from Bergen. THE STAR CHEF Kenneth Hansen at
THE INGREDIENTS Bleak-weather food Svinklv Badehotel, a clapboard hotel on
NORWAY for vegetable dodgers wild sheep, a remote beach, is one to watch following
AUSTEVOLL monksh, salmon. his turn at 2015s Bocuse dOr.
ARCHIPELAGO THE STAR CHEF Johannessen has gained Set menu from AED 115; 0045-9821 7002,
THE AREA Until recently it was mainly plaudits for his seasonal seafood menu, svinkloev-badehotel.dk
shermen, campers and bird-watchers who served in a harbourside mansion where STAY Ruths Hotel near the shing
travelled to this smattering of stunning islands seafaring paraphernalia and original ships port of Skagen.
linked by fjords and rocky coves in south-west lights are no urban-hipster pastiche. Expect Doubles from AED 950; 0045-9844 1124,
Norway. But local chef rjan Johannessen, variations of his prize-winning creation: sole ruths-hotel.dk

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 41


The Art Deco interiors
of the Open Suite
Via Veneto View

R
ight on Romes exclusive via Veneto, with its designer shops

Timeless and outdoor cafs, and within minutes from the Spanish
Steps and Trevi Fountain, Grand hotel via Veneto is housed
in two renovated 19th-century buildings that have been

ELEGANCE
Be at the heart of the action in Rome
combined to create a modern masterpiece. The 116 elegant and
spacious rooms and suites are furnished with handmade Twenties-
inspired Art Deco furnishings. Bright Carrara marble bathrooms are
equipped with Bulgari amenities, and in addition to at-screen TVs
and individual climate control in the guest rooms, there is free Wi-Fi
at Grand hotel via Veneto throughout. The Royal Suite features two bedrooms, one studio, three
bathrooms, a Turkish marble hammam with colour therapy and a
furnished, 250sqm terrace with a panoramic view over via Veneto,

42 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


TRAVELLER PROMOTION
The Royal Suite terrace
overlooks the Roman wall ruins

Porta Pinciana and the Roman wall ruins.


The hotel is also home to an impressive art
collection, with works by Picasso, Mir, Dal,
de Chirico and Guttuso.
With its evocative gallery, arched dining
rooms, paintings by famous Italian artists,
handmade crystal chandeliers and open-air
courtyard, Magnolia restaurants spectacular
interior is the perfect backdrop against which
to enjoy ne Mediterranean-Italian cuisine. At
Time Restaurant & Wine Bar, guests can enjoy
drinks or informal meals in the lively atmosphere
of via Veneto. Its the perfect destination for
breakfast, lunch, dinner, drinks or for after-theatre
nibbles as it serves Italian and international
specialities until late. The cocktail menu is one
of the largest in the world.
Designed to help you leave the busy world
behind, AQVA CITY SPA - Sisley Treatment
Center is a rened mix of classic white marble
ttings and state of the art facilities spread over
500sqm with six mahogany treatment cabins
with ergonomic heated beds and individual
polychrome marble showers, the futuristic Vichy
shower and Vitality pool lled with salt water, a
hammam and a relaxation area where earphones
and a playlist can be provided at your bed. It is
the only spa in Rome to stock the exclusive Sisley
Paris products, and guests can choose from a wide
range of treatments including Sisley for the face
and Sisley global anti-ageing treatment.
The striking
hotel entrance
For more information, call 0039-0648 7881

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 43


SLUG

WHERE
TO STAY
SPA STAYS  MOLLY RINGWALD  BERLIN

Good-time spas
Healthy living is almost a religion in California; the state brims with the latest
fads and x-it doctors, while serious get-ups such as The Ashram promise to
undo your wicked ways. But what if you dont want to suffer? There is an
alternative that mixes blissful treatments with a happy approach to food
and grape here the prescription for stress is a double dose of decadence
FOR A FARM-TO-FORK FEAST

BELMOND EL ENCANTO
The holistic spa here has an almost monastic hush. Hummingbirds views. The farm-to-table ethos, delivered with urban sophistication,
and dragonies thrum and the cicadas sing as youre pummelled makes the most of coastal classics: pan-seared salmon; gnocchi and
into hopeless relaxation. Treatments are exotic and earthy, drawing halibut with blistered tomatoes and kale and pear salad. Many of the
from the surrounding landscape of vineyards, wild-ower meadows herbs and vegetables are from the kitchen garden and the fruit is
and ocean. Theres an emphasis on the seasons, with one-off picked every morning. And then theres the Holstein cow, Ellie, who
specials such as the autumnal soothing sage body treatment that provides fresh milk for the home-made cheeses, and two beagles
stimulates circulation and cell renewal; the Pinot and Cabernet who contribute to the laid-back cosiness. The bungalows have
Sugar Crush signature body-scrub treatment and the deep sea hardwood oors, plantation-style shutters and private patios. The
marine facial leave you buffed and beaming. Take a dip in a lily pond, wisteria arbour, owering trees and climbing roses give
soaking tub or retreat to the spa terrace, sipping hand-pressed the place a glorious Secret Garden feel, but if you crave some urban
juices or calming organic teas. Theres also an innity saltwater distractions, Santa Barbaras downtown waterfront and the Art
pool, a gleaming tness studio with yoga and dance classes, and Deco Riviera Theatre, a cinema showing rst-run art lms, are within
custom-made electric bikes on which to explore Santa Barbaras walking distance. Back at the hotel, its the small but beautiful details
grape country. Its no surprise that this gorgeously secluded hotel a well-stocked library, telescopes on each terrace for star-gazing,
was once a bacchanalian escape for lm stars. It has everything a handmade chocolate trufes by your bed and Acqua di Parma bath
glamorous hideaway needs: a celebrity past, a glossy spa, fabulous products that add the glitter to this old-style classic.
food. The swanky restaurant spills out on to a terrace with sweeping Doubles from AED 1,100; 001-805-1845 5800, elencanto.com
44 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
SLUG
Belmond El Encanto is
a glamorous hideaway
in Santa Barbara
WORDS: DAISY FINER, BRITT COLLINS

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 45


FOR HOLLYWOOD GLAMOUR

LA QUINTA
On the edge of Palm Springs, just two hours from LA, this is a palm- and outdoor treatment rooms where guests can take in the scents
fringed desert escape with citrus groves and secret little courtyards and views of the honeysuckle- and bougainvillaea-fringed gardens
and coves. Lying in the shadow of the Santa Rosa mountain range, as they treat their mind, body and aching muscles to all manner of
this hotel was a favourite haunt of the movie crowd from the Twenties marine-based jets, grape-seed body polishes and hot-stone massages.
onwards; Greta Garbo, Clark Gable, Katharine Hepburn and others The 90-minute HydraFacial, a non-invasive skin-resurfacing treatment,
came to recuperate in the desert heat, hide out or party the weekends delivers instant results using ultrasound and galvanic currents to push
away. The Spanish-colonial aesthetic is evocatively Southern serums into skin. It detoxes, nourishes and rehydrates by whisking
Californian with a fresh, modern lustre. The whitewashed, red-roofed away dead skin, smoothing ne lines and deep-cleansing pores,
bungalows surround sun-soaked courtyards with pools. Most have giving skin a silky smooth, dewy glow. Its this sort of treatment that
private terraces, sunken baths and replaces in the bedrooms (super has earned it such a loyal local following. Retro fans will love Morgans
comforting) as well as thoughtful touches such as Egyptian cotton in the Desert, the hotels signature bistro its clubby vibe and surf-
sheets and iPod docks with pre-loaded playlists. Aside from venturing and-turf menu (scallops with fennel salad, braised short ribs with
into the glitz and excitement of Palm Springs, theres little reason to wild mushrooms) sizzles with Mad Men-style sophistication. Come
leave the place, with its tennis courts, golf courses, croquet lawn, a night, retreat to the terrace, where the tiki torches cast long shadows,
well-equipped gym, seven restaurants and, of course, a destination spa surrounded by stars and the silence of the mountains. Spellbinding.
and beauty salon. The lavish spa packs in everything, with 35 indoor Doubles from AED 1,060; 001-760-564 4111, laquintaresort.com

The pool area at La Quinta,


outside Palm Springs

FOR A NATURAL HIGH


Stay in a Tree House at
POST RANCH INN the Post Ranch Inn
On the stunning northern Pacic coast where cliff faces drop more than 1,000ft to the
sea, Big Sur is a pristine outdoor playground, composed of several state parks. Dirt
paths meander by rivers, waterfalls and redwood canyons. The air is salty and scented
with pine. And here, almost hidden among the trees, is the Post Ranch Inn. The feel is
of understated elegance, with wood-panelled interiors and earthy tones. Stay in one of
the Tree Houses or, for a total hideaway, go for a private cabin with a kitchenette and
fridge stocked with homemade hummus, chocolate-chip cookies, artisanal cheeses
and local grape. Theres no television, but who cares its all about the view from
your deck, where the horizon is so wide that you can actually see the earth curving.
Schools of whales blow in the sea below, tiny rabbits dart out of lavender bushes,
hummingbirds it in among the trees. If hiking, mountain biking or horse riding dont
appeal, set up camp on the wooden sun-loungers by the pool (theres a phone for
ordering drinks and food at lunchtime). And for more downtime, the light-lled spa
with views of the forest delivers treatments that include chakra clearing, a crystal-
and-gemstone therapy that uses burning sage to clear your aura, and an almost tribal
drum session with a local shaman to let go of any painful past experience. Or opt for
the more orthodox organic garden facial, which uses herbs, local honey and minerals
blended for your skin type. Skip dinner in the restaurant and order room service: huge
sandwiches piled with roasted, olive-oil-glossed vegetables, avocado and apples. Then
sit by the re before clambering up to the high, dark-wood bed. The fresh air and wild
surroundings are the ultimate replenishment for tired spirits.
Doubles from AED 2,845; 001-888-524 4787, postranchinn.com
46 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
WHERE TO STAY
FOR A SPOILING SANCTUARY
The Pony Room at
Rancho Valencia
RANCHO VALENCIA
Hidden among immaculate horse ranches seasonally inspired Cali-Med food.
and polo elds just a short drive from LA Theres an original Damien Hirst buttery
is a quiet, romantic, solidly slick operator. painting, wrought-iron chandeliers and
The property houses two stunning oor-to-ceiling windows with views over
destination restaurants and a gigantic the lawns. Its worth coming just for the
spa-as-sanctuary with a Balinese-style freshly baked buttery focaccia served
yoga pavilion. While most of the interiors with aged Parmesan akes doused in
are pure Southern California, youll be olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Try the
wowed by the treatment rooms which black-trufe risotto or the ricotta gnocchi
are glowy and Moroccan-inspired, with with white grape and chilli akes. Despite
ower-lled terraces, rain showers and the lavishness of the food, almost all the
deep outdoor tubs. The exotic and good- ingredients are sourced from nearby
enough-to-eat treatments use limes, Chino Farms and on-site beehives, herb
lemons and other fruit from the gardens gardens and olive groves, and meals
in original, nurturing treatments such as are served on reclaimed cast-iron or slate
desert-g facials (they smell divine and boards. This place has charm in spades:
really pep up tired skin), avocado body even the bar has a cosy beach vibe,
wraps and Valencia-orange massages. opening on to a terrace with re pits and
The two-hour couples treatments use cushy sofas among the trees. Rustic and
custom-blended essential oils, a clay rambling, it feels more like St Lucia than
body mask, bath soak and massage San Diego, with its sea breezes, scents
followed by a private poolside lunch. of honeysuckle and tropical sleepiness.
Theres also a gentlemens menu of The 49 Spanish-style casitas have four-
facials, body scrubs and deep-tissue poster beds, wooden oors and sunken
massages. Its the essence of the West living rooms. And every morning, freshly
Coast in big, soul-nourishing doses, and squeezed orange is delivered to your
pretty much unfaultable in execution. door, along with a newspaper.
The moodily lit restaurant, Veladora, Casitas from AED 1,710; 001-866-233
has won many awards for its rustic, 6708, ranchovalencia.com

FOR CORK-POPPING FUN


Poached Maine
AUBERGE DU SOLEIL lobster is on the
menu at Auberge
Bordeaux aside, nowhere is as obsessed with vineyards as Napa Valley. This hotel du Soleil
is a big player, full of moneyed San Fran types and serious foodies. Gone are the
hippy dreamers who set out to prove that these slopes could produce grapes to
rival those of France: today, Napa is a big industry with bottle prices to match.
Here, in the forest of Rutherford Hill, there are 11 light-lled houses with two-storey
gabled ceilings and glass walls that lead out on to the terrace (front-facing Saint-
Tropez and Provence, which overlook the valley, are the best). The design has a
relaxed, sparkling California vibe beige wood, cane furniture, sisal rugs and vast
bathrooms. Squeeze in an early game of tennis or a few hours by the tree-lined
pool, where canopies provide shade and the barman is a charmer who can whip up
a killer cocktail in his cute poolside shack. Then, let the tastings begin. The hotel can
organise a tour of vineyards (youll need a driver ask for Steve, a dead ringer for
Donald Sutherland and full of local folklore). Old-school Forman Vineyard is run by
the matter-of-fact Margaret who will explain the vintages, whereas Vineyard 29 is
a slick machine with a controlled approach to grape making. For lunch, The French
Laundry deserves a visit if you can swing a reservation, but if not, eating at the hotel
is no shabby affair. The main, formal restaurant serves up a three- to four-course
extravaganza spiced lamb with dates, scallops with miso and sweet potato,
lobster with apple and grape is chosen from a 74-page book. And then, of course,
there is the spa, built around a courtyard with tinkling fountains. Yoga, qigong
and Pilates are on the menu, and the treatment rooms have tall ceilings and glass
walls at one end that open on to private gardens containing all sorts of delights:
outdoor showers, hot tubs with views of the valley, and calendula, rosemary, lemon
balm and other herbs used in the house-infused oils. Treatments range from reiki
to craniosacral and scrubs made from grape seeds. The Auberge Head to Toe a
scalp rub, full-body massage and foot salt scrub is its signature triumph, after
which a warmed robe is wrapped around you. Even for those not into glugging
grape or belt-loosening lunches, the spa alone makes this spot a winner.
Doubles from AED 2,480; 001-707-963 1211, aubergedusoleil.com
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 47
Sega Bar, by the pool,
has nightly live music.
Right: Pumpkin and
feta salad at Republik

CNT The main pool is


EXCLUSIVE fringed by palm trees
and looks out to the bay

Shangri-Las Le Touessrok
Resort & Spa
A Mauritian hotel gem is reimagined to great effect, nds RHEA SARAN

D
riving up from Sir Seewoosagur this francophone Indian Ocean island but and famous. Models have tanned on the
Ramgoolam International Airport also incredibly welcome. white sands here, and you could be booking
along Mauritius eastern coast, This is a feeling that is further magnied into the very room the Duke and Duchess
the island gradually reveals itself: on stepping through the chic, wood- of York once inhabited. Even more telling
sugarcane plantations ank the narrow strip dominated entrance hall, from where Im are the guests whove been returning to the
of tar that runs past small villages perched on whisked off to a comfortable sofa looking beachside resort for over three decades. So
gentle slopes; moored wooden shing boats out toward a sculpted water feature and the when the Shangri-La hotel group took over,
bob on clear waters, while in the distance shimmering bay beyond, a welcome drink in they decided to improve and update rather
emerald-green mountains reach up to a blue a bamboo cup placed before me. Check in than overhaul a smart move that preserves
sky intermittently interrupted by wisps of feels like a social affair a chat between two heritage while bringing the hotel rmly into
white cloud. My driver smiles often and friends as we sit in the reception lounge, no the now. Asian touches have been added to
keeps up a steady stream of chatter about imposing desk in sight. On the meandering the soothing island dcor that makes liberal
the similarities between Creole and French, walk past the main swimming pool, along a use of locally sourced wood often unpolished
and how he struggles to fully understand cobblestoned path leading to the two-storey for a rustic-chic feel and clever lighting
the Bollywood movies on television because building housing the Hibiscus guest rooms, features. Walls that obstructed the stunning
its been three generations since his family cheery greetings of bonjour follow as I pass views were removed, like in the new Japanese
moved from Bihar to Mauritius. By the time the ever-smiling Mauritian staff. restaurant Kushi, where lunch can now be
we maneuver around an ancient banyan tree Its no mean feat taking over a historic enjoyed with panoramic views of white speed
and pull up to the entrance of Shangri-Las hotel, and in Mauritius few properties have boats slicing through the crystalline waters of
Le Touessrok Resort & Spa, 45 minutes later, the legendary status that Le Touessrok enjoys, the bay (from where, one can only presume,
I feel not only rather well-acquainted with having long been a playground of the beautiful the delectably fresh sashimi must be sourced).
48 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
CNT EXCLUSIVE

Enjoy sushi with a view


at Kushi. Below: A
Frangipani Junior Suite

Wood elements and


clever lighting features
in the airy lobby

Friendly staff
are on hand
to clean your
sunglasses and
offer fruit skewers,
and drinks
are delivered
by Segway
The other restaurants are enhanced versions Every guest should spend at least one
of their old selves: Safran does upscale Indian sunbathing day on Ilot Mangenie, a private
food at dinner time, Sega Bar an open-air island open to resort guests and accessed
thatched-roof cabana hovering over the by a ve-minute boat ride. On arrival at the
main pool serves smoked Mauritian spirits island jetty, youre spritzed with rose water,
and maintains the tradition of nightly live and seen to a sun lounger from where you
music (jazz nights are particularly fun), and can watch parasailers in the distance. Grilled
renamed Republik Beach Club & Grill is best meats and cold hops take care of midday
for breakfasting on buttermilk biscuits and cravings, and the turquoise waters beckon
scrambled eggs with your toes in the sand. invitingly (watch out for sea urchins). Guests
The guest rooms, too, have been updated at Le Touessrok can also book a round of golf
while remaining generously proportioned; at the 18-hole Bernhard Langer-designed
large bathrooms with rain shower heads and championship course on le aux Cerfs,
eco-consciously packaged amenities are a another island accessible by boat. Those View from the Hibiscus
rooms, toward the
particular highlight. Three wings house the more aquatically inclined will nd every beach and lagoon
200 sea-facing rooms and three villas: Hibiscus conceivable water sport available, including
opens on to the most active beach with a recommended hour-long kayaking tour
facilities for kayaking and stand-up paddle through the mangroves.
boarding, and is best for families; Frangipani, CHI, The Spa, a Shangri-La hallmark, is Traveller tip
PHOTOS: RHEA SARAN, GAVRI NAYAR

on an island connected by foot bridges, is one of the welcome additions to the resort, Make your arrival smoother by
the most adult-friendly with a pool reserved with a menu of classics as well as locally booking the Yu Lounge service at
for those over 18; and the Coral wing is the inspired treatments including a massage where SSR International Airport. A limousine
quietest. My Hibiscus junior suite led on to a a sugarcane baton is run over your body to will transfer you from the aircraft to
balcony with a view past slim palm tree trunks release deep-seated tension. As the rolling the private lounge, where you can
toward the impossibly blue lagoon. Rooms on cane worked the knots out in my back, I relax with a beverage or a snack while
the ground oor come with direct access to couldnt help thinking that while I was sorry to customs and immigration formalities
the beach, where friendly staff are on hand to have never witnessed Le Touessroks previous are completed for you. Theres also
clean your sunglasses and offer fruit skewers heyday, it seems the best has yet to come. a small Duty Free store.
through the day, and drinks from Republiks Doubles from AED 1,960; 00230-402 7400, yulounge.com/yu-lounge-mauritius
bar are delivered by a gentleman on a Segway. shangri-la.com/mauritius/shangrila
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 49
Take a dip in one of two
innity pools. Right: The
Arabian architecture
of the hotel

Relax with views of


the Arabian Gulf at
Al Mahatta Lounge

CNT
EXCLUSIVE

Sheraton Sharjah Beach


Resort & Spa
Ahead of its ofcial launch later this month, JENNY JOHNSON gets a sneak peek
of Sharjahs most-anticipated beachfront property

L
eaving Dubais cloud-piercing offers a great-value minibreak with the high Emirati restaurant Arjwan opens this month,
skyscrapers and gleaming malls behind standards and personalised service youve showcasing authentic dishes made using
and entering sister emirate Sharjah come to expect from the brand. family recipes of local women, who will also
is like stepping back in time, where Gastronomy is a highlight with six venues do live dessert making demonstrations. Gusti
sand-coloured buildings blend harmoniously offering a range of international cuisine is an intimate Italian eatery and Al Mahattah
with the citys many heritage sites and thats set to shake up Sharjahs dining scene. Lounge is the place to wind down after dinner.
historical landmarks. Rising from the shoreline, Executive chef Serkan Yelkenbasan combines The signature Link@Sheraton Caf beside
like an opulent Arabian sandcastle, Sheraton Far Eastern and Indian avours at seafood the lobby is a boon for business travellers, who
Sharjah Beach Resort & Spa takes inspiration restaurant Marasea, which draws on the can enjoy the high-tech business facilities and
from traditional Middle Eastern architecture emirates shing heritage with nautical dcor stay connected while fueling up on light bites
with fortress-style towers, domed roofs and like rope displays, a net-like carved ceiling and freshly brewed Turkish coffee. Club Suite
barajeels (wind towers, originally used as cooling and large sh tanks, and a menu of specialities guests have access to the comfortable top-oor
systems) but offers a contemporary spin with including salmon carpaccio with trufe ponzu Club Lounge, with continental breakfast and
experimental cuisine and modern facilities. and seaweed salad, red snapper fusion and snacks throughout the day, and a facility for
Just a 30-minute drive from Downtown crispy rice with spicy tuna. Enjoy panoramic booking meeting rooms. The hotel has nine
Dubai (complimentary shuttles run twice a Arabian Gulf views from the terrace at Al meeting rooms in total and two large ballrooms
day to and from The Dubai Mall) and ve Qubtan (meaning The Captain in Arabic), with private entrances, making it well suited
minutes from neighbouring emirate Ajman a relaxed beach grill with a Caribbean twist, for conferences or events.
(where you can pop for a nightcap if youve with dishes like crab cakes, calamari and jerk- For a more relaxed time, spend the day by
had your ll of mocktails), the 349-room marinated chicken wings alongside tropical the two innity pools one with a swim-up
hotel the rst Starwood property in Sharjah mocktails served in a coconut or pineapple. bar and water-immersed sunbeds or on the
50 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
CNT EXCLUSIVE

Executive chef Serkan


Yelkenbasan in the open
kitchen at Marasea

Emirati restaurant
Arjwan showcases
authentic dishes made
using family recipes
of local women, who
will also do live dessert
making demonstrations
private, palm-fringed beach. Launching later Enjoy authentic Emirati
cuisine at Arjwan. Left:
this month, the two-storey 1,100sqm Shine Tuna tataki at Marasea
Spa will house 15 treatment rooms, a Jacuzzi,
steam room, sauna and the pice de rsistance,
a Turkish hammam. Active types can take part
in various water sports right from the beach
or get a workout at Sheraton Fitness by Exos,
which has a separate male and female gym and
the latest Technogym equipment. Meanwhile,
little ones are entertained at the kids club
with a supervised outdoor play area and a
calendar of activities.
With the Al Hisn Sharjah Fort, the Heritage
Area, Sharjah Art Museum and Souq Al Arsah
just 10 minutes away, the hotel acts as a base
for venturing out and a tranquil retreat to return
to. After a day of exploring, unwind on the
comest Sheraton Sweet Sleeper bed in one of
the sumptuous suites, some with Arabian Gulf
PHOTOS: AASIYA JAGADEESH

views. With the soon-to-be-opened Emirati


Suite, with an outdoor whirlpool, or the Royal
Suite and Presidential Suite, both offering a
private pool on a sea-facing terrace from where
you can watch the sun set, this is the latest
address for a spoil-yourself staycation.
Arabesque detailing
around the comfy Sheraton
Doubles from AED 550; 00971-6-563 0000, Sweet Sleeper bed
sheratonsharjah.com
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 51
TRAVELLER PROMOTION

LUXURY
journey
Arrive in style to
The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain
with the hotels exclusive
The chauffeured Rolls-
Rolls-Royce chauffeur service Royce Ghost Series II

D
esigned for the most discerning travellers
ahead of the Saudi holidays this month,
The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain introduces
new packages for visitors residing in
the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia (Dammam,
Al Khobar and Dhahran). Guests can opt for a
chauffeured Rolls-Royce Ghost Series II to transport
them from the comfort of their home to the luxury
resort located on the Bahraini beachfront. Those
staying in the Diplomatic Suites or Villas at the hotel
can look forward to an inimitable journey across the
border in comfort and style in the ultra-luxury vehicle
equipped with complimentary Wi-Fi access. The
hotel features 23 private villas, each with its own
swimming pool, beach access and a 24-hour lifestyle
butler. Each villa has a beautifully designed living
room, three spacious bedrooms and features state-
From above: of-the-art technology. The Diplomatic Suite comes
The hotels pool with an expansive living room and dining area, a
overlooks the sumptuous bathroom with Jacuzzi bath and
Arabian Gulf;
the private villas upgraded bath amenities and a master bedroom
come with their with a king bed for the ultimate comfort.
own pool Packages start at AED 3,990 per night for
Diplomatic Suite guests and AED 10,210 per night
for Villa guests and include complimentary internet
and access to the elite Club Lounge for the duration
of the stay. If guests require transport during their visit,
the Rolls-Royce is available for daily rental that can be
organised through the concierge.

For more information, call 00973-1758 0000 or


visit ritzcarlton.com/bahrain

52 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


WHERE TO STAY

BED-HOPPING WITH...
Molly Ringwald
The novelist, jazz musician and star of Pretty In Pink and The Breakfast Club on heavenly hotels


CAPRI

I had a butler
with my room,
so I invited my
friends over and

we had a big
dinner party

Punta Tragara S
The views from the bedrooms here are incredibly
beautiful. I got married on the Amal Coast and went to
Capri on my honeymoon. Its one of my favourite parts of
the world, although I dont know any Italian, apart from
grazie. I learnt French as an adult and I think I maxed out
on languages there.
Doubles from AED 1,840; 0039-081-837 0844,
hoteltragara.com W Drake Hotel
This place is fun, with a brilliant restaurant
LONDON
W The Dorchester and amazing cocktails. Its on Queen Street
Ive done Graham Nortons TV West, which is a very cool spot with good
show twice and this is where shops. Its also near Ossington Avenue,
they put you up, which is really where all the best restaurants are.
nice. Its just so luxurious I Doubles from AED 620; 001-416-531 5042,
nd it very easy to relax here. I thedrakehotel.ca
judge a hotel on how great the TORONTO
bathtub is and The Dorchester
wins outright on that score.
Doubles from AED 2,015; Htel Louis 2 X
0044-20-7317 6530, I rst stayed here with a girlfriend
dorchestercollection.com when I was 16, and it still looks
exactly the same. We would go

The St. Regis and get strawberries, Nutella and


baguettes, take everything back to
New York X
INTERVIEW: FRANCESCA BABB;

the hotel and have a picnic in the


This hotel is so fancy. Its not room. When I lived in Paris years
at all the way I live, but its later, I made my family who came to
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

fun to dip into that world. I visit stay here, too. My daughter is six
had a butler with my room, and a complete Francophile, so Ive
so I invited my friends over promised her well go if she learns
and we had a big dinner party. some French rst.
Doubles from AED 2,550; 001- NEW YORK Doubles from AED 560; 0033-14-633
PARIS
212-753 4500, stregisnewyork.com 1380, hotel-louis2.com

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 53


BERLIN Stand-out hotels in Germanys coolest city, from bold Bauhaus

NEW IN
TOWN

Check in CONTEMPORARY CLASSIC

to the new SOHO HOUSE BERLIN ELLINGTON


Hotel Amano Location At the end of Torstrasse, an Near the KaDeWe
Grand Central, avenue lined with restaurants department store and the
famous park, Tiergarten
and boutiques
located in Dcor An eight-storey property This Bauhaus building with a touch of Berlin
Mitte, Berlins with Thirties-inspired from the Twenties has white surfaces, high
ceilings and a gold-painted lobby desk
interiors and grafti
historic city by Damien Hirst in
the lobby
centre, close
Clientele A glamorous mix of stars Wealthy German families, more mature
to cultural such as Madonna and guests and savvy business travellers
global creatives
landmarks
such as The Rooms 65 rooms, 20 apartments 285 bright, contemporary rooms with big
and four lofts, some with vintage elements windows and conveniences such as high-
Hamburger like gramophones and claw-footed baths speed internet

Bahnhof.
The 250-room Food & The all-day menu offers satisfying Duke Restaurant is popular with the
property Drink dishes such as pappardelle local crowd. The llet of beef with
with wild boar rag Madeira foam is a great choice
features a
French bistro,
Strengths The Cowshed, a spa where you can gossip The Sunday jazz brunch with live music,
a glossy, over pedicures and cappuccinos but you have to book weeks ahead
backlit bar
and a rooftop Weaknesses The food can be inconsistent. Stick with The hotel charges for internet connection
the brunch and cocktails and can feel a bit clinical
terrace offering Wi-Fi Free Free for one hour per day; then AED 12
scenic views of every further hour, up to AED 50 per day

Price Doubles from AED 440 Doubles from AED 600


the Reichstag.
Contact Torstrasse 1; 0049-30-405 0440, Nrnberger Strasse 50-55; 0049-30-68 3150,
amanogroup.de sohohouseberlin.com ellington-hotel.com

54 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


ROOM SERVICE

classics to fun, retro-style crash pads

GOOD VALUE SPLURGE CHARACTER

MICHELBERGER HOTEL REGENT BERLIN THE MY PLUS ONE STUDIO


Near the Mercedes-Benz Off the charming square of On a street corner of Neuklln, Berlins
Arena and the Spree River, Gendarmenmarkt, near the hippest neighbourhood
in hip Kreuzberg shops on Friedrichstrasse

An old factory turned into a Polished sienna-toned marble, deep-pile An industrial-chic one-room hotel with
glampacker hotel. The lobby has oral carpets and crystal chandeliers a poured-concrete oor and salvaged-
concrete and wood oors and wood ttings in an apartment block
lamps made of old books from the Seventies

A trendy young clientele that includes Celebrities who want to keep a low prole, Young, globetrotting hipsters
indie rock stars, trust-fund backpackers such as Meryl Streep, Tom Cruise and
and Japanese tourists Helen Mirren

110 rooms, from a Dynasty-inspired suite 156 rooms and 39 suites with pastel carpets, With just one room, you get the best of
with golden sheets to an Alpine chalet room antiques and marble bathrooms both worlds: the privacy of an apartment
and the convenience of service, plush
towels and bathroom products

Home-cooked daily lunches and weekend Fischers Fritz is a Theres no restaurant, so its DIY in the
dinners using organic, local ingredients Michelin-starred small kitchenette; but theres a surprise
WORDS: GISELA WILLIAMS; PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, CORBIS

restaurant try the snack on arrival, and a caffeine-fuelled


smoked eel tartare meeting with a local can be arranged
before you get there

The people-watching: the creative start-up The awless service: the staff know The customised map highlighting all
clientele is very arty and interesting guests by name, and how they like their tea the best cafs and shops in the area,
such as Bullysbakery

Sometimes the too-cool-for-school staff The rather-too-formal atmosphere The suite itself is fantastic, but the
arent very friendly or professional building is unattractive

Free Free Free

Doubles from AED 335 Doubles from AED 1,040 Doubles from AED 400
Warschauer Strasse 39-40; 0049-30-2977 Charlottenstrasse 49; 0049-30-2 0338, Niederbarnim Strasse 6; 0049-17-3264
8590, michelbergerhotel.com regenthotels.com 1372, myplusone.net

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 55


The treatment rooms
come with a private
outdoor rain shower

URBAN
sanctuary
Escape the stresses of city life at the
tranquil Amara Spa at Park Hyatt Dubai

56 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

Enjoy a couples treatment in


one of the suites then relax
on the private terrace

S
et in idyllic surroundings on the banks of
Dubai Creek and the world-famous Creek
Golf Course, Amara is a true sanctuary of
luxury and tranquility at Park Hyatt Dubai.
The spa is a tribute to ancient Moorish palaces,
where exotic rituals have been created to stimulate
the senses and soothe and rejuvenate both body and
soul. Amara was designed with local sensibilities in
mind, and privacy and tranquility are top priorities
the spa has its own entrance, which can be accessed
without going through the hotel. The experience
begins in one of the eight treatment rooms,
including three couples suites, each with a private
outdoor terrace, lounge area and indoor and outdoor
rain showers. The spa focuses on rituals using
Europes nest treatments and therapies combined
with indigenous Arabian touches. This month,
book the 120-minute Delicate Detox package for
the special rate of AED 850 (normal price is AED
1,390) and indulge with a 60-minute seaweed
body treatment and a 60-minute detox massage,
complete with a tantalising meal to compliment the
sensory journey and a complimentary spa product
gift worth AED 150. Then relax by the stunning
25m swimming pool, featuring a series of built-in
palm islands, which can be enjoyed complimentary
when receiving a spa treatment, in addition to
the steam room, sauna and tness centre. With its
adjoining private courtyards and cascading water
features, Amara is the perfect sophisticated retreat.
The peaceful,
spacious pool bar For more information, call 00971-4-602 1660
or visit dubai.park.hyatt.com

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 57


TRAVEL
IN STYLE
STYLE
STYL
ST
ST
TYL
YL
Y DE 
LE GUIDE
GUID
GU IDE  HOW
HOW TO
HO ACK  ALESSANDRA
TO PACK
PAC AL
LEES
SS
SAN
SAN
ANDDR
RA AMBROSIO
AMBR
AM
A M
MBR
BR
B ROS
O IO
O

4
3

1 Integra Backpack, Richmond Polycarbonate Suitcase, Integra Laptop Bag; all price on request, Samsonite 2 Toiletry Pouch 26, AED 2,290,
Pgase 55 suitcase, AED 17,500, leather case, AED 18,900; all Louis Vuitton 3 Sinclair Q-Tote, AED 1,585, Tegra-Lite Medium Trip Packing Case,
AED 4,265, Tegra-Lite International Carry-On, AED 3,195; all Tumi 4 Revival Duffel Bag, AED 900, Logoduck Medium Trolley, AED 800, Logoduck
Small Trolley, AED 700; all Mandarina Duck 5 Double bag, AED 12,000, Safano Trunks, AED 28,800 each; all Prada

58 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


THREES
COMPANY
STYLE: DINA KENZHEBAYEVA; PHOTO: VLAD ANTONOV

Meet all your packing needs with


three-piece matching luggage sets

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 59


Sea-Dweller 4000,
AED 38,610, Rolex at
Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons
Calibre de Cartier
Diver, AED 27,800,
Cartier

Pontos S Diver,
AED 15,690,
Maurice Lacroix
at Paris Gallery

Prospex Kinetic
Divers, AED 2,630,
Seiko at Al-Futtaim
Watches & Jewellery

DIVE
EDITED: BILL PRINCE; PHOTO: MATTHEW BEEDLE

MASTERS
C60 Trident Pro
600, AED 3,328,
Christopher Ward

Upgrade your beach watch take the plunge


with these serious submersibles
60 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
WATCHES
PAM 614 Luminor
Submersible 1950,
AED 56,600,
Panerai

Aquatimer Deep
Three, AED 67,700,
IWC Schaffhausen

Dive XL,
AED 4,900,
Gucci at Rivoli

Bathyscaphe
Flyback Heritage Diver 1967,
Chronograph, price on request,
AED 61,600, Longines
Blancpain at Rivoli

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 61


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

HONEYMOON
isle Create lasting memories as a
couple at Coco Bodu Hithi

L
ocated on the island of Bodu Hithi in the North Mal Atoll, and only a
40-minute speedboat ride from Mal International Airport, Coco Bodu The resort is perfect for a
romantic getaway. Above: Enjoy
Hithi is an idyllic island paradise. The resorts 100 island and overwater villas Indian Ocean views and snorkel
are united by a spacious yet intimate feel and dcor that mixes Maldivian straight from the Water Villas
architectural elements, like high-pitched roofs, with modern touches like deep
designer bathtubs. All villas come with outdoor spaces in which to lounge and watch
romantic sunsets, making each one suited to couples.
There are seven restaurants and bars including all-day dining Air, romantic
overwater restaurant Aqua serving fresh seafood, Asian fusion eatery Stars and cocktail
bar Latitude near the innity pool with panoramic views. At Coco Spa, enter a
soothing space where you can select traditional treatments that trace their roots back
to Indonesia, Thailand and India.
Tailored experiences are the highlight of a stay at Coco Bodu Hithi, with many
suited to honeymooning couples. Enjoy the Ultimate Sunset Cruise on a dhoni
with canaps and bubbly or sparkling juice. Or indulge in the signature couples spa
treatment Journey to Maldives which includes a foot bath, seashell massage,
coconut and vanilla body scrub for her, island spice Boreh body wrap for him, a face and
scalp treatment and a spice bath, leading you to a place of synchronised harmony.

For more information, call 00960-664 1122 or visit cocoboduhithi.com

READER OFFER
Honeymooners receive a 25 per cent discount on villa bookings which can be
combined with an early bird offer that includes a welcome cocktail on arrival, a
tropical fruit platter and special bed decoration. Guests in Island and Water Villas
also receive a bottle of sparkling grape and are entitled to a romantic three-course
candlelit dinner and 10 per cent discount on spa treatments, while guests in
Escape Water Villas receive all the above plus a bottle of bubbly. Additionally,
Coco Residence couples are entitled to an in-villa bubbly breakfast or a romantic
candlelit dinner plus 15 per cent discounts at the spa.

62 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


HOW TO PACK

LATIN SPIRIT
Creative director and founder of womenswear label Bedouin,
ANDRAYA FARRAG on whats in her suitcase for a trip to Peru
1 Solarsoft slides, AED 129, Nike at namshi.com 2 Beach bag,
AED 985, Sensi Studio at Boutique 1 3 Cancun dress, AED 1,350,
Bedouin 4 Hat, AED 1,248, Yosuzi at Boutique 1 5 T-shirt, AED
995, T by Alexander Wang at bysymphony.com 6 Sunglasses,
AED 915, Ray-Ban 7 Swimsuit, AED 1,200, Marysia at net-a-porter.
2 com 8 Lancaster Sun Beauty Silky Milk Fast Tan Optimizer
SPF 15, AED 175 9 Denim shorts, AED 755, Frame Denim at
net-a-porter.com 10 Canon Powershot SX410 IS camera, AED 825
11 Espadrilles, AED 1,835, Proenza Schouler at Boutique 1

1
WORDS: JENNY JOHNSON; STYLE: SABINA PARKINSON; PHOTO: RAJESH RAGHAV

10

HOT TIP
Minimise weight
11 by transferring
your beauty
products into travel-
sized containers

O n holiday, taking in a countrys architecture


and culture is what its all about for Farrag.
A oaty maxi dress with slip-on sandals
is a no-fuss look thats suited to exploring Limas
boutique galleries and MATE, Mario Testinos
restaurant to Londons Lima. Farrag switches
up her look in a scalloped-edge swimsuit with
denim shorts, a white tee and mirrored sunglasses
for a relaxed day on Playa Barranquito, watching
surfers ride the waves, adding a pop of colour
contemporary cultural centre, and it works just and local avour with a woven beach bag and
as well for a leisurely lunch or dinner at one of straw sun hat. No trip to Peru is complete without
the citys many lauded restaurants like Hijo de a visit to the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu and
Olaya, famous for its ceviche, or Central, sister comfy at espadrilles do the job.

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 63


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

Spa
SANCTUARY Find your bliss at
Dusit Devarana New Delhi

Enjoy a couples treatment at


the Devarana Spa. Below: The
tranquil spa is nestled in nature

S
et on eight acres of greenery and tranquil water bodies, Dusit
Devarana New Delhi is the perfect escape from the bustle of
city life, yet is only a few minutes drive from the airport, and
is near the capital citys ofces, embassies, shopping malls and
markets. The 50 contemporary style rooms have Thai touches, the
latest in technology and views across the lush landscape.
In Thai, Devarana translates as garden in heaven and thats
what you get at Devarana Spa. Inspired by Thai heritage and age-old
treatments, the internationally trained expert therapists treat not just
your body and mind but also the soul. Nestled amidst soothing water
bodies, the spa has extensive outdoor treatment areas including a yoga
pavilion, a glass house tness centre, a Thai pavilion and sand beds.
Treatments, such as the the Devarana Signature Massage combining
Thai, Ayurveda and shiatsu techniques with Swedish and aromatherapy
inuences and the moisturising and detoxifying Darjeeling Tea Body
Scrub, are performed in the four indoor treatments suites with private
verandas. Treatments make use of natural products such as herbal oils,
pastes and scrubs, which were perfected by the experts at Devarana
through extensive research over the past decade. The magic, of course,
lies in the expert hands of the therapists, and their positive energy and
focus on understanding individual needs will leave you feeling lighter,
refreshed and rejuvenated.

For more information, call 0091-11-3355 2211 or visit devarana.in

64 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


TRAVEL ESSENTIAL

TIED TO PLACE
Journey to India with this exotic, embroidered accessory

CNT
Classic

Piloutin Maharadja
bag (limited edition),
AED 5,990, Christian
Louboutin
WORDS: JAYNA MALERI; PHOTO: STEPHEN LEWIS

hristian Louboutin was sitting in trafc in Mumbais

C tony Malabar Hill neighbourhood when a burst of jewel


tones inside a tiny storefront caught his eye. The sun
was hitting it just so, and you could see how beautiful
and colourful the ribbons were, says Louboutin of his chance
sighting of Vivah Borders, an embroidery shop on Nepean Sea
Road. He returned the next day and walked out with 40 plastic
bags overowing with trimmings. I had to buy extra suitcases
to carry it all home, he adds. The result? The Piloutin Maharadja
handbag inspired and dictated by a nite supply of ribbon.
Although each bag is unique, all have hints of shimmering gold,
bold cobalt and, of course, Louboutins signature crimson.

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 65


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

The Sesel Spa is a haven for


relaxation. Below: Enjoy a
relaxing couples massage

RELAXATION T
he H Resort Beau Vallon Beach, Seychelles is a warm,
intimate destination that offers opportunities to discover the
treasures of the islands and is conveniently located at the
centre of Mah, Seychelles largest island, on a 3km stretch

vacation Rejuvenate with a spa break


of glistening white sand and crystal clear waters. The resort embraces
the islands natural landscape with the 100 well-appointed suites, villas
and grand villas almost camouaged by the scenery. The H Resort
offers a wide-ranging collection of culinary options blending Seychellois-
inspired cuisine and international offerings, including contemporary
at The H Resort Beau Vallon Vascos for Mediterranean with a Seychellois twist, Japanese teppanyaki
spot Seyshima, romantic beachside seafood restaurant Eden and Trader
Beach, Seychelles Vics, which specialises in Polynesian-fusion food and tiki cocktails.
Travellers looking for the true meaning of relaxation can indulge
themselves at Sesel Spa, which offers signature treatments that combine
the nest in Western and Eastern techniques. Implemented by expert
therapists who take a holistic approach to wellness, theres a careful
nourishment of body, mind and soul in treatments like the Sans Souci
(No Worries) De-stress Massage and the Sesel Spa Holistic Facial.
The spa consists of ve single treatment rooms, two couples treatment
rooms, a Vichy Shower room, as well as a salon for nails, hair and other
aesthetic treatments. The spa team has over 25 years of international
experience in homeopathy, aromatherapy, Ayurveda, medical skin care,
energy healing, holistic healing and even life and relationship coaching.
Through their prolic careers, they have worked with celebrities such
as Jennifer Lopez, Bruce Willis, Demi Moore, Roger Federer and
Serena Williams. The Sesel Spa team has also worked together to create
products with signature blends just for The H Resort. Taking a holistic
and individual approach to each guest, one session is all it takes to feel
the effects of the rejuvenating and reenergising treatments.

For more information, call 00248-438 7000 or visit seychelles.h-hotel.com

66 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


TASTEMAKER

Brazilian
beauty
Victorias Secret model Alessandra Ambrosio
on her travel tness routine and family holidays
How do you stay t and healthy
on the road?
I try to exercise in the morning before
work. When Im in Los Angeles I go to
SoulCycle, Pilates Platinum and The
Bar Method, and when travelling I use
the hotel gym. I dont deny myself
anything when it comes to food, but I
make sure the portions are not huge
and that every meal is well balanced.

What are your travel


beauty essentials?
I always carry a good hand lotion,
water mist spray from Mimi Luzon and
Charlotte Tilbury Lip Magic Rejuvenating
Balm to keep my skin hydrated and glowing.
Swimsuit,
What do you pack rst? AED 448;
cover-up, The white-sand
I am fortunate I get to travel to many exotic, AED 460; beaches of Trancoso
warm locations, so the rst thing I pack is both le by
one of my le by Alessandra swimsuits. Alessandra
at s*uce
I always try to nd some time to relax
by the pool or beach.

Do you have any packing tips?


Trancoso, a small shing
Invest in a great suitcase; spending a little village located in Bahia, on
extra makes a big difference. I nd my the east coast of Brazil, is
Rimowa luggage stylish and practical
they come in different sizes, never bend
very hippie and simple yet
out of shape and have dividers that chic and charming
keep everything in place.
skiing, paddle boarding, relaxed by
How do you relax when travelling? the beach and enjoyed great food at
I love listening to music. Youll often see me Scorpios and Nammos. We usually rent
INTERVIEW: JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, CORBIS

with my headphones on while travelling. I also a house, but last year we stayed at Santa
like to catch up on movies while in the air. Marina and it was wonderful, with all the holidays I go to Trancoso
holidays, Trancoso, a small shing
amenities you need while on vacation village located in Bahia, on the east coast
Whats your favourite city? and the most amazing view. of Brazil. Its very hippie and simple yet
Los Angeles, as its my home town now. chic and charming.
I love that its always sunny and that What are the must-dos for
the beach is never far away. I enjoy visitors to Brazil? Where would you like
spending time with my children in Santa It depends on where you go to visit next?
Monica. We often rent bikes to ride by as each city has its charms. I have never been to India and
the beach and we visit Santa Monica The beaches in Rio are theres so much culture and history
Pier, where my kids love to go on the beautiful and the city has great there that Id like to explore. I
rides and play at the arcade. shopping. You cant beat Rio wouldnt know where to start but
sunsets and the energy. I love I denitely want to visit Delhi, the
Where do you travel to with your family? to listen to samba bands and Salsa Deluxe Taj Mahal in Agra and Amritsar
Our last family vacation was in Mykonos do some stand-up paddling Multiwheel suitcase, to see the Golden Temple.
we had the most amazing time. We all on Ipanema Beach. I also like AED 3,049, Rimowa
love the water and outdoor activities and to hike the amazing Pedra da Alessandra Ambrosio is brand
there is so much to do there. We went jet- Gvea. During the winter ambassador for Rimowa luggage

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 67


As some of its most storied landmarks emerge from a
facelift, its a good time to return to the Eternal City

A
Photographed by STEFANIA PAPARELLI s tributes to iconic cities go, few
lms have done it better than Roman
Styled by SARA FRANCIA Holiday. The image of Audrey Hepburn,
fresh from a daring haircut, sitting on
the Spanish Steps eating gelato is one
that endures, and has prompted more
than one copycat photo op at the 18th-
century landmark. Last October, these steps linking
Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Trinit dei Monti were
closed for renovation thanks to a AED 7.35 million
endowment from Italian luxury jewellers Bulgari, whose
agship store is just a few metres away on Via dei Condotti.
The site is scheduled to reopen fully this spring.
Bulgari is one of a growing number of Italian fashion and
luxury houses whove taken an interest in the restoration of
Romes most important historical sights. In November, the
Trevi Fountain reopened in all its glory to the public after
a 17-month revamp that was sponsored by Fendi. And the
Colosseum has seen sections under scaffolding for a clean-
up and rejuvenation project underwritten by Tods.
As the city gets a new lease on life, Bulgari muse
and actress Svetlana Khodchenkova of Tinker, Tailor,
Soldier, Spy and The Wolverine fame checks out some of
Romes must-see spots.

68 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


MAKE-UP: EMANUELA DI GIAMMARCO; HAIR: MASSIMO SERINI; ASSISTANT STYLIST: ALICE MANFRONI

The Spanish Steps are being


renovated by Italian jewellery and
luxury goods brand Bulgari

Dress, boots; both by Dior. Serpenti


watch, earrings in gold with
diamonds; both by Bulgari

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 69


WHERE TO STAY comprising a beef cutlet, broccoli, burrata sea bream with olives and mango sauce.
Hotel Eden and spicy nduja sausage. Doubles from AED 2,220; 0039-06-7759 1380,
Over its 126-year history, this hotel has seen Doubles from AED 2,800; 0039-06-98 2634, palazzomanfredi.com
Sigmund Freud, Orson Welles and Maria Callas jkroma.com
check in. There are 121 classically decorated Hotel dInghilterra
rooms and suites, and on the roof are a bar Rome Cavalieri The hotel is located just a couple of minutes
and two restaurants. Order smoked lobster Part of the Waldorf Astoria network, this hotel from the Spanish Steps. Antiques, old carpets
with black wild rice or the veal Milanese with is located 5km from the historic centre. The and baroque mirrors populate the 88 rooms
cherry tomatoes and rocket salad at Michelin- windows of the 370 rooms and suites look out and suites. Sample the tagliatelle with porcini
starred La Terrazza dellEden, which also offers on to views of the city. At restaurant La Pergola, mushrooms and linguine with lobster and
panoramic views of the city. The hotel is a the only three-Michelin-starred restaurant in olives at Caf Romano.
10-minute walk from the Spanish Steps. Rome, order dishes like batter-fried zucchini Doubles from AED 1,610; 0039-06-69 9811,
Doubles from AED 1,470; 0039-06-47 8121, owers on a bed of shellsh with saffron niquesahotels.com
dorchestercollection.com consomm and pigeon breast with black
salsify, mushrooms and cocoa. The hotel has Hotel Savoy Roma
D.O.M Hotel Roma a large park, four swimming pools and a spa Get a real taste of Fellinis La Dolce Vita at
This boutique hotel in a former monastery outtted with Roman baths. this hotel occupying a 19th-century palace.
in Piazza Navona has 24 guest rooms, a Doubles from AED 1,100; 0039-06-3 5091, The 124 rooms come with classical dcor,
restaurant and a bar. romecavalieri.com and Granet Restaurant on the rooftop offers
Doubles from AED 1,140; 0039-06-683 2144, sweeping views of St Peters Cathedral.
domhotelroma.com Palazzo Manfredi Doubles from AED 800; 0039-06-42 1551, savoy.it
Not far from the Colosseum, the building
J.K. Place Roma housing this property was previously a Villa Laetitia
Not far from Piazza del Popolo, the Pantheon gladiatorial school. The 16 guest rooms Each of this hotels 20 rooms has its own style
and the Spanish Steps, there are 30 rooms with are decorated with designer furniture; the and a view to the Tiber river or the park. In
rosewood poster beds. J.K.Cafe specialises in two-room suites come with a Jacuzzi or a the Michelin-starred restaurant Enoteca La
artisanal burgers try the TBurger with grilled small Roman bath. In the Michelin-starred Torre, the tagliolini with caviar and bergamot
tuna, hummus and tomatoes or the ITBurger Aroma Restaurant on the roof, enjoy red sauce is tasty, as is ravioli with ricotta, chicken

Assorted cheeses and cold


cuts at Roscioli. Right:
A street in the historic
Trastvere district

70 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


In the Bulgari museum in the historic
Via dei Condotti boutique, photographs
of famous clients, like neorealist muse
and actress Anna Magnani, are exhibited
beside jewels

Dress by Prada. Heritage Collection


vintage necklace in gold with
emeralds by Bulgari

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 71


liver and sweet red onion. The restaurant 70), but you can also choose to buy over 300 Al Biondo Tevere
is also known for its grape cellar. varieties of cheese and 200 kinds of prosciutto, At this century-old family-owned restaurant,
Doubles from AED 730; 0039-06-322 6776, pancetta and other cold cuts. For mains, try the pizza Romana with mozzarella, tomato
villalaetitia.com Rome-style cutlets with tomato sauce, smoked sauce and basil (AED 40), the tonnarelli (egg
ricotta and chestnut polenta (AED 60) and pasta) with fresh ricotta (AED 40) and millefeuille
Antica Dimora Delle Cinque Lune pasta with anchovies and egg in tomato-walnut with blueberries for dessert (AED 15).
Located in Piazza Navona, the 18 rooms are sauce (AED 60) are recommended. 0039-06-574 1172, albiondotevere.it
decorated with antiques and Renaissance 0039-06-687 5287, salumeriaroscioli.com
paintings on the walls. Gaudeo
Doubles from AED 760; 0039-06-4542 9400, Casina Valadier This joint is famous for unusual paninis
ilburcardo.com Part of a 19th-century palace, Vista restaurant named after Italian cities. The Mondello
in the Villa Borghese park has some of the come with sea urchin caviar, cream cheese
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK best views of Rome, located in the highest stracciatella and lemon zest, while the
Roscioli part of the city. Chef Massimo DInnocenti Sandrigo is comprised of cod, cream sauce
This restaurant-cum-shop at the market in dishes up Roman-style artichoke (AED 65), and raspberry vinegar.
Piazza Campo de Fiori has one of the oldest paccheri pasta with guanciale and pomodorini Paninis from AED 15; 0039-06-9818 3689
bakeries in Rome and a grape bar with more (AED 80) and cannoli with mascarpone for
than 1,000 bottles (bottle of grape from AED 80). dessert (AED 60). Pasticceria Cinque Lune
On the menu are 13 cheese platters (from AED 0039-06-6992 2090, casinavaladier.com Open since 1902, this pastry shop is famed
for using old recipes. Try the fagottini with
ricotta, poppy seeds and cinnamon.
In the Villa Borghese park, one Pastries from AED 10; 0039-06-6880 1005,
of the highest points in the city
5lune.net
Top, leather skirt; both by Louis
Vuitton. Bulgari Catene watch Primo al Pigneto
in gold and diamonds; Serpenti
bracelet in gold and diamonds; In the Pigneto district, the hits here are braised
both by Bulgari beef with carrot pure and spicy coffee sauce
(AED 70) and linguine with octopus and
pecorino cheese (AED 45).
0039-06-701 3827, primoalpigneto.it

Assunta Madre
The best sh restaurant in Rome, not far
from the banks of the Tiber. Youll start with
assorted fresh seafood (served with cheeses),
before moving on to sea urchin caviar and
grilled red sea perch.
Set menu from AED 600; 0039-06-6880 6972,
assuntamadre.com

Pizzarium
Youll nd the best pizza in town here: classic;
with mozzarella and marinara sauce; and an
unusual potato option with braised pork and gs.
Pizza from AED 60; 0039-06-3974 5416, gbonci.it

Eataly Roma
The gastronomic complex houses restaurants,
cafs, shops selling organic products and a
grapery. Everything is produced by local
farmers from the Lazio region and much of it
can only be found for sale here.
Entres from AED 50; 0039-06-9027 9201,
roma.eataly.it

Ciampini
Visit this 70-year-old caf next to the Spanish
Steps for its home-made ice cream.
From AED 30; 0039-06-687 6606, ciampini.com

Antico Caff Greco


The oldest caf in town was founded on Via
dei Condotti in 1760. Coffee is still prepared
following recipes dating back to when Goethe,

72 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


The terrace of Canova restaurant.
Below: Deep-fried artichokes and
focaccia at SantEustachio restaurant

Relaxing at Antico Caff Greco

Dress by Gucci. Trousers by Fendi.


Shoes by Christian Louboutin.
Earrings, rings, bracelet in gold,
diamonds and mother-of-pearl;
Diva watch in gold, diamonds,
spessartines, tourmalines
and opals; all by Bulgari

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 73


View of St Peters
Cathedral and Ponte
SantAngelo

74 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


Dress by Etro. Shoes
by Gianvito Rossi.
Earrings, necklace,
watch; all by Bulgari

Clockwise from top left: A sculpture on the faade of Vittoriano, a complex of museums not far from Musei Capitolini; at the entrance of the historic Bulgari
boutique on Via dei Condotti in Rome; MAXXI, the National Museum of XXI Century Arts; The interior of restaurant Roscioli

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 75


Stendhal, Andersen and Gogol (who wrote and colours, fruits and vegetables. Dont miss Musei Capitolini
a large part of Dead Souls here) used to the shops selling limoncello (Italian lemon This museum complex in Campidoglio square
frequent the spot. liqueur) there are over 20 varieties. was designed by Michelangelo. Inside is the
0039-06-6791 700, anticocaffegreco.eu statue of The Capitoline Wolf, as well as other
Castel SantAngelo antique sculptures, and paintings by Tiziano,
Necci dal 1924 The building has been through many Michelangelo, Caravaggio and Rubens.
This caf-bar has been open since 1924 avatars, having previously served as the Entry AED 50; 0039-06 0608,
and was made famous by Pasolinis lms. imperators burial place, the popes residence museicapitolini.org
Try the Roman-style coffee with a sweet and a prison where the sculptor Cellini served
pastry from their bakery (from AED 15). Come time and then escaped (the only time Bulgari Museum
sundown, Necci turns into one of the most anyone achieved that feat). This is also Located in the historical boutique of the
fashionable places in town for an apritif. where Puccini primadonna Floria Tosca Roman jewellery house, which celebrated
Along with grape (from AED 55 a bottle), committed suicide. Today, the castle is its 130th anniversary in 2014, the exhibition
they serve plates of snacks, including home to a museum and the old papal features sketches, photos of famous clients
artichokes and eel. apartments are open to the public. from Ingrid Bergman to Anna Magnani
0039-06-9760 1552, necci1924.com Entry AED 35, castelsantangelo.com and, of course, jewels, including Elizabeth
Taylors legendary necklaces.
Cristalli di Zucchero Trastvere Free entry, bulgari.com
Go to this restaurant near Piazza Cavour A colourful district on the west bank of the
for impeccable veal alla Romana (AED 90) Tiber. The buildings date back to ancient Getting there
and the best gnocchi allAmatriciana in town, Rome, including villas of the nobility and Emirates (emirates.com), Etihad (etihad.com)
with tomato sauce, guanciale, onion and Caesars residence. The labyrinth of and Qatar Airways (qatarairways.com) y
pepper (AED 50). narrow streets and the basilicas are from direct from the GCC to Rome
0039-06-6992 0945, cristallidizucchero.it the Middle Ages.

Da Augusto
A small trattoria near the Trastvere district.
Try the lasagna (AED 35) and gnocchi (AED
30) with the house grape made by Augustos
family (from AED 10 per litre).
0039-06-580 3798, trattoria-romana.it/da/augusto

SantEustachio Il Caff
This caf near the Pantheon has been in
business since 1938. Their signature coffee is
the espresso SantEustachio (AED 10).
0039-06-6880 2048, santeustachioilcaffe.it

Canova
Here, the signature dishes include a risotto
with provola cheese, bubbly and trufes, and
pasta calamarata with squid, cherry tomatoes
and pesto sauce. Try the local barmans
invention, the espressino, for which people
line up in the morning.
Entres from AED 35; 0039-06-361 2231,
canovapiazzadelpopolo.it

WHAT TO SEE
MAXXI, the National Museum of XXI
Century Arts
A 15-minute taxi ride from the city centre
brings you to this museum of contemporary
art housed in a Zaha Hadid-designed building.
The permanent exhibition includes works by
Anish Kapoor, Ilya Kabakov and Sol LeWitt.
Entry AED 40; 0039-06-320 1954,
fondazionemaxxi.it

Market in Piazza Campo de Fiori


Come here in the morning, when there are
fewer people and a fabulous scent of owers
in the air. The offerings are typical for Italian Tomatoes with basil
markets: cheese, olive oil, pasta of all shapes and olives at Da Augusto

76 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


At the entrance to Casina
Valadier in Villa Borghese park

Top by Brunello Cucinelli. Skirt


by Miu Miu. Serpenti earrings,
necklace, ring in gold and
diamonds; all by Bulgari

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 77


Guests enjoy a drink
before dinner in the
observation car

78 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


Sunrise as the Eastern
& Oriental Express
rumbles through the
jungle in Malaysia

Take it
slow
When it comes to city-hopping, the fastest way is
not always the best. ANNABELLE THORPE relaxes
the pace on a journey from Bangkok to Singapore
and back in time by rail
Photographed by MARK LUSCOMBE-WHYTE

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 79


St Georges Church in
Georgetown, Penang. Right:
Crossing the bridge over
the Khwae Yai River

E
leven-thirty at the world-famous Orient Express, the E&O On board, the dimensions of the
night and the bar glides between Bangkok and Singapore, accommodation are best described as cosy.
is swinging. My taking four days for the journey south, and Our Pullman cabin managed to pack in a
sister, Caroline, and three to make the return trip back to the north. seating bench (which became the lower bunk
I are singing along For Caro and I, the journey is the lling in a at night), a small table, a bookshelf and a
softly to Mack Far East sandwich a few days in Bangkok wardrobe, but we were instantly glad we had
The Knife, played rst, the same in Singapore afterwards. The taken the pre-boarding advice and stowed our
expertly by dinner- idea of joining the dots between the two by big suitcases in the luggage hold. E&O cabins
jacketed Peter, a travelling 2,000km south along the Malay have a major advantage over the Orient Express
60-something jazz peninsula was an opportunity too good to miss. in that they all have en-suite bathrooms. But
pianist whose After three frenetic days temple-hopping we soon learnt that the best way to make use
ngers are running up and down the ivories in Bangkok, it felt rather wonderful to be of the cabin was for only one of us to be in it at
at a spectacular pace. Several tables around welcomed into the hushed connes of the a time, until we settled down to sleep.
the bar are taken, with elegantly coiffed ladies E&Os waiting room at Hua Lamphong station. One of the biggest joys of the E&O is the
in sequin-studded dresses and men cutting After the rst of many cups of tea we were open-sided viewing car, where we took up
a James Bond dash in slick tuxedos. It could ushered across the concourse to where the residence as the train announced its departure
be any bar in any swanky hotel in the world. sleek cream-and-green carriages stretched far from Hua Lamphong with a sudden, hefty
Except that instead of the Dubai or London beyond the curve of the platform. Elsewhere tug. We clutched our g&ts more tightly and
trafc rushing past outside, its the Thai in the station, men in suits were running for gazed out into the early evening sunshine,
countryside; moonlit and silent. And its us classically grubby commuter trains, backpackers watching as the city rose and fell around us;
thats moving; gliding past sleeping villages and struggling to get their rucksacks up through neon-lit streets, clusters of crumbling houses
clusters of palm trees on a softly jolting train. the doors. At our end, all was calm and elegant; strung about with washing, small children
Welcome to the rareed world of the two Thai women in beautiful scarlet cheongsams standing shyly in doorways and waving as we
Eastern & Oriental Express, a member of that directed us to our carriage, where our Malay sped past. Every so often we would rumble
exclusive breed of trains that aims to bring steward happily took our pictures as we posed past an evening food market; gaggles of
serious glamour back to rail travel. Sister of on the steps of the train. people sat on benches slurping noodles and

80 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


A steward preparing
for lunch in one of
the two dining cars

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 81


The Qing Shou Si Chinese
Temple, on the banks of the
Khwae Yai River, is covered
in colourful painted designs
and dragon medallions

82 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


Stewards waiting to
welcome guests on board at
Kanchanaburi Station. Right:
The Presidential Cabin

Bangkoks Hua
Lamphong station.
Above: Guests
We gazed out into take a tour around
Penangs Little India

the early evening


sunshine as the
city rose and fell
around us; neon-
lit streets, clusters
of crumbling
houses, children
waving as we
Crossing a bridge in
rural Malaysia. Below:
sped past
Local transport on the
Khwae Yai River

Stewardesses Sandi and Sopa.


Right: The ticket ofce at
Kanchanaburi train station

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 83


Inside the Qing Shou
Si Chinese Temple in
Kanchanaburi, Thailand

84 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


Seared duck and prawns
in Thai sauce from the
E&Os menu. Left: Head
chef Yannis Martineau in
the dining car

stir-fries cooked on small stoves that puffed this bridge replaced the wooden bridge built farmland drifting past. At one point I stand
up smoke into the brightly lit sky. by POWs during the Second World War, as at the back of the train and watch the two
There are two dinner sittings each evening portrayed in the iconic 1957 David Lean thin lines of the track stretch away behind
and we had opted for the later one, allowing movie The Bridge On The River Kwai. Tens us as far as the eye can see. Its a rare chance
us to keep our prime viewing spot in the of thousands of men died under the regime to see rural Thailand, away from the beach
observation car and watch as dusk fell across of the Japanese army while building the resorts and bustling cities; clutches of pastel-
the last vestiges of the city. There is something railroad link from Ban Pong in Thailand to hued cottages stand rather unsteadily on
wonderfully relaxing about train travel; the Thanbyuzayat in Burma, and we learn more makeshift stilts, and paddy elds stretch
constantly changing scenery, the owing sense of the areas tragic history on a boat trip that out toward the horizon.
of movement, the knowledge that the night takes us quietly down river. Its a deeply Evenings are a highlight on the E&O.
will end without any need to drive, or catch a tranquil place now; just the soft ow of the We bookend our suppers which range from
taxi, or navigate unknown streets homewards. water and the haze of the early morning sun. beef medallions to light, fragrant seabass
Safe in the certainty that we had only to Its hard to imagine such awful events ever in the elegant piano bar car, oozing Thirties
wander down the cars to our cabin later, we happened somewhere so beautiful, but a visit glamour, with plush maroon banquettes
settled in for a 9pm dinner with two of our to the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre brings and soft pools of light from the Art Deco
fellow travellers the E&O is a sociable train, us back to reality with a small but moving table lamps. Then we retire to our cabin
and meals are a great way to connect with exhibition on the lives of those involved in for the night; southern Thailands lack of
others making the journey. building the railroad. Outside, neat rows of development seems to extend to its railway
graves line up in a lush, sunlit war cemetery. tracks, too, and we bump and jolt through
The four-day itinerary is cleverly put Its a chastening morning but fascinating, too, the darkness. Tucked into the upper bunk,
together, allowing plenty of time to enjoy the and as we head back to Kanchanaburi station I cling on tightly in my sleep.
train and the observation car with an off- to rendezvous with the train, we feel that by
site excursion each day. On the rst morning visiting we have in some way paid our respects When morning dawns, Caroline pulls
we disembark by one of the most infamous to those who suffered so much. the curtain back to let the sunshine ood
bridges in the world or, rather, its modern Back on board, the afternoon passes easily in and we nd ourselves looking out on
reincarnation. Spanning the Khwae Yai River, in the observation car, quiet swathes of Thai to a very different scene. Gone are the

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 85


Staff attend to a guest in the
rear bar car. Left: The train
rounds a bend in the forested
Malay Peninsula

ramshackle houses on stilts and the gilt- And in amongst it all lies the colonial legacy: watching dusk fall over the mountains in
topped temples, replaced with neat housing churches, the stately governors buildings and Malaysia as the track slowly ascended the
estates and the shining domes of whitewashed the elegant Eastern & Oriental Hotel, where slopes. I loved the evenings: putting on a posh
mosques. We are in Malaysia; not just a we stop for a drink and to recover a little from frock and wobbling through the carriages in
different country to Thailand but with its the humid bustle of the citys streets. high heels, listening as Peter played Louis
afuent-looking towns and smooth-as-silk As we board the bus back to Butterworth Armstrong and Frank Sinatra in the softly lit
railway tracks a different world. station, Caro and I agree that we cant believe bar. In the end, we had just one regret; that we
Malaysia is the perfect transition from its already our last night, that tomorrow didnt hide in the bathroom of our cabin, so we
Bangkok to Singapore; some of the villages look morning wed be disembarking in Singapore. could do the journey in the other direction and
as if plucked from small-town America, but the But theres still a treat in store. The scenery as enjoy the E&O all over again.
scenery is dramatically tropical: low-lying paddy we head south through Malaysia grows even
elds stretch out toward giant jungled karsts more stunning; forested mountains sheering
(limestone crags). The second days excursion up beside the railway line, slowly melting Getting there
is an afternoon visit to Penang, and we hop away toward the glittering shoreline of Bukit Emirates (emirates.com), Etihad
off the train at Butterworth station to board a Merah Lake, where the last of the evening (etihad.com) and Qatar Airways
bus that takes us across the Straits of Malacca sun oods the water with a rich, golden hue. (qatarairways.com) y direct from
to one of the most colourful destinations in Our nal dinner passes all too quickly and the GCC to Bangkok
all of Malaysia. Penang is steeped in colonial we wake on the nal morning to catch a last
history, and its role as a major trading port since glimpse of the 10th Malaysian state weve Book it
the 18th century means it saw an inux of crossed. Peering out the window we are Four-day/three-night Bangkok to
immigrants from across Asia. catapulted back rmly into the 21st century; Singapore journey, from AED 10,835
Just strolling the streets here is a multi- trafc is solid across the causeway that links per person, based on two people sharing
sensory experience; in Little India, chai stalls Malaysia to the island of Singapore and we a Pullman cabin and including all table
waft spices into the air; racks of jewel-toned grind slowly past, heading to Woodlands dhte meals and excursions. Three-
fabrics swing in the breeze and dozens of curry station, the end of our journey. day/two-night Singapore to Bangkok
houses compete for business. Around the Later, sitting on a rooftop bar surveying the journey, from AED 10,325 per person,
corner, Chinese temples signal the gateway futuristic Singaporean skyline, we think back on the same basis.
to a different quarter of town. Here, roofs are to the highlights of our rail adventure; that 0044-20-3117 1300, belmond.com
adorned with snarling dragons and leering rst giddy evening, pulling out of Bangkok,
faces, amid thousands of vividly coloured tiles. the tranquil drift down the Khwae Yai River,

86 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


Guests get ready to board
at Hua Lamphong station

I loved the evenings:


putting on a posh
frock and wobbling
through the
carriages in high
heels, as Peter played
Louis Armstrong in
the softly lit bar

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 87


Get the look
Pack right for this months destinations
PAULE KA A/W 15

DSQUARED2 A/W 15
1

1 2

SKI
Add a splash of colour to an otherwise sober
2
3
3
selection of winter staples like quilted jackets
and snug boots to stand out on the slopes
4
6 4
7

5 7
5
6
1 Beanie, AED 1,000, Gucci 2 Parka, AED 3,130, Canada Goose at Salam 1 Jacket, AED 1,050, Tumi 2 Scarf, AED 1,275, Louis Vuitton 3 Jeans,
Department Store 3 Trousers, AED 6,815, Giuseppe Zanotti 4 Gloves, AED 950, Diesel 4 Sweater, AED 1,640, Z Zegna 5 Boots, AED 2,880,
AED 958, Elisabetta Franchi 5 Sweater, AED 149, Promod 6 Scarf, Ludwig Reiter at stylebop.com 6 Dior Sauvage Eau de Toilette, AED 470
AED 491, Joseph at theoutnet.com 7 Boots, AED 1,589, The Kooples 7 Bag, AED 9,420, Valentino
1 1

RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL A/W 15


DOLCE & GABBANA A/W 15

2
2
WORDS: RHEA SARAN; STYLE: ESTHER QUEK, SHELLY MISTRY; PHOTO: MARK LUSCOMBE-WHYTE

TRAIN
Hark back to the golden age of train travel
with evening attire betting the plush
surrounds of your dining car
3
4
4 5
5
7
6 6

7
1 Bag, AED 11,750, Miu Miu 2 Dress, AED 3,850, Dries Van Noten at 1 The Leather Kingston laptop briefcase, AED 1,200, ONA at Gulf Photo Plus
Bloomingdales Dubai 3 Watch, AED 2,828, Trussardi at Paris Gallery 2 Jacket, AED 2,288, Hackett London 3 Trousers, AED 1,955, Kingsman at
4 Kure Bazaar nail polish in Cherie, AED 80 at Comptoir 102 5 Sunglasses, mrporter.com 4 Shoes, AED 8,000, Berluti 5 Sweater, AED 249, H&M Studio
AED 2,090, Fendi 6 Ring, AED 1,525, Leivankash at Boom & Mellow 6 Pen, AED 1,235, S.T. Dupont 7 Belt, AED 495, Eden Park
7 Neotrente shoes, AED 3,650, Christian Louboutin
SLUG

90 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


CONTEST

Where
are
you?

T
his striking structure, built in
2007, is considered one of the
coolest designs in this enormous
country. The idea was conceived by
architectural students at a nearby university.
Access to the main body of the building is
through the violin, from where an escalator
lifts you to the grand piano. There are two
concert halls here, which are used by local
music colleges. Its situated in a city that
stands in the middle reaches of a major
WORDS: CECILY WALKE; PHOTO: CORBIS

river and is famously known as the town


of bean curd although in recent years,
the town has developed into a metropolis
with many skyscrapers and shopping malls.
Reportedly, more inventive architectural
projects are planned for the city, including
a rumoured hotel in the shape of a table
tennis paddle. Where are you?

PRIZE
Email your answer identifying the city
and country where the photograph was
taken to contest@appgulf.com and you
could win a three-night stay for two at
Angsana Balaclava Mauritius. See overleaf
for details and look out for the answer in
the March issue.

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 91


CONTEST

WIN A THREE-NIGHT STAY


FOR TWO AT ANGSANA
BALACLAVA MAURITIUS
A
jewel in the Indian Ocean, Angsana
Picturesque views
Balaclava Mauritius is nestled on
from the Ocean
the shores of Turtle Bay, set amidst Front Pool Suite.
a lagoon of turquoise waters. The Below: Dine in the
retreat features 52 private suites and villas courtyard at Oryza
ranging from the Ocean Front Pool Suite, a
two-storey villa offering picturesque views
of the ocean with a king-sized bed, 25sqm
private pool and veranda, to the Imperial Pool
Villa, with two bedrooms, a living and dining
area, fully equipped kitchen, entertainment
deck with an innity pool and private garden
the ideal accommodation for family holidays.
Enjoy an array of culinary experiences,
ranging from the resorts main restaurant
Oryza, serving Asian and international cuisine,
to Epicurean Delight, featuring the nest
Mauritian avours. Or, through the resorts
Destination Dining, an al fresco meal on the
beach cooked to your tastes can be arranged.
Guests can retreat to the award-winning
Angsana Spa and indulge in treatments
utilising a blend of local Mauritian ingredients
such as the Ginger Lemongrass Body Polish,
the Coco Delight treatment and the Essence
of Angsana Rainmist Tone. End the experience
with afternoon tea in the spa garden.
An array of aquatic activities are on offer,
from snorkelling, scuba diving, water skiing WINNER:
and deep-sea shing to glass-bottom boat N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 5
trips, windsurng and sailing. On land, enjoy The winner of Novembers Where
adventure bike tours and cooking classes. are you? competition is Matt
To win a three-night stay for two in an Horobin of Dubai who correctly
Ocean Front Pool Suite at Angsana Balaclava identied the location of the
Mauritius, including daily breakfast, a dinner picture as Knuckles Mountain
for two and a couples spa treatment, Range, Sri Lanka. He won a
correctly identify the location of this three-night stay for two at
issues Where are you? competition by The Chedi Muscat, Oman
January 31, 2016. SLUG

Reservations are subject to availability. SLUG

The prize is valid through January 31, 2017, Where


ar e
you?
is non-transferable, cannot be redeemed for
cash and does not include public holidays. W
hen British settlers
rst
looked up at the
knobbly
peaks dominating
this
mysterious land,
reminded them their shape
of a part of the
skeleton which human
is how the mountains
their English name. got
In the local language
they are simply
called misty.
A 31,000-hectare

Flights, transfers, mini bar and all other


expanse of this
region in the centre upland
of an
that has been independent island nation
67 years was declared for more than
a conservation
forest in 2000 and
became part of
World Heritage a larger
Site a decade later.
extraordinarily beautiful Its an
place, a befuddling
whirl of landscapes
from
cloud forest. Elephant, grassy plain to
buffalo and boar

expenses not stated in this prize are subject


may be seen galumphing
quieter moments, around; and at
if youre very patient
reasonably lucky, and
you might spot
jackal or loris. Its a leopard,
also a botanical
with about 160 bonanza,
endemic owering
many of them found plants,
nowhere else on
The islands recorded earth.
history stretches
back 3,000 years,
LORI SATTERTHWAITE

and theres evidence

to payment either on consumption or


a lively prehistory, of
too; but it has only
known by its current been
name since the
Seventies. Where early
are you?

PRIZE
Email your answer
identifying the mountain
WARD; PHOTO:

range and country


where the photograph
was taken to contest@appgu
you could win a lf.com and

departure. For more information call


three-night stay
The Chedi Muscat, for two at
Oman. See overleaf
for
WORDS: CHRISTY

details and look


out for the answer
January issue. in the

150 COND NAST


TRAVELLER NOVEMBER
2015

00230-204 1888 or visit angsana.com NOVEMBER 2015


COND NAST TRAVELLER
151

COMPETITION RULES 1. Entries for Cond Nast Travellers Where are you? competition should be sent via email to: contest@appgulf.com 2. Winners will be judged at the discretion of Cond Nast Traveller. The decision
of the judges will be nal and binding. No correspondence will be entertained. Only one correct answer will be registered per entrant per issue. 3. Each entry must arrive no later than January 31, 2016. Winners will be
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92 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


CONDENAST AD DEC 2015_215 x 275mm.pdf 1 12/14/15 2:36 PM

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K
ADVICE

The experts
Travel wisdom from those in the know
Take a dip overlooking
Central Park at The Spa at
Mandarin Oriental, New York

Wheres the best urban spa?

CAITLIN DALTON ROB NICHOLAS JENNY BAILLY


Editor, The Good Spa Guide, Norwich, UK Founder, myconcierge.com, Dubai Beauty director, Allure, New York
ESPA Life at Corinthia in London is much- While travelling on business in London If you want to oat in the middle of
loved by urban spa-goers. Set over four I was impressed by the Akasha Holistic Manhattan, go to The Spa at Mandarin
oors, the black and white, marble-and- Wellbeing Centre at Hotel Caf Royal on Oriental, New York. How do they pull off
glass design runs throughout the spa for Regent Street. With three hours between the levitation? Let me count the ways:
cohesion. The relaxation spaces are low-lit, appointments, I made the most of my time, First, theres the sprawling space itself,
personal and warming. The black marble enjoying a workout and swim followed by hovering 35 oors over Central Park. Then
pool and thermal facilities are quiet, and a deep-tissue massage. The chic, relaxed theres the vitality pool (a glorious, spotless
the sleep pods are perfect for drifting away. surroundings couldnt contrast more with Jacuzzi) that you can lounge in before
The wellness ethos gives the spa a sense the busy British capital. Another great place your treatment. And most transcendent of
of harmony; book in with a naturopath, to enjoy a city escape is Armani/SPA in all are the heavenly massages and facials
acupuncturist or osteopath. The Spa at Milan. The masculine dcor is great, with that begin and end with the clear chime
Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo is also rather its dark wood and textured stonework. of Tibetan cymbals. The entire experience
heavenly, 37 oors above the city. The The sweeping views of the city from the makes you feel utterly weightless (and
vitality pool and treatment rooms have relaxation area are amazing, accentuating worry-less). Youll look pretty fabulous,
views of the urban sprawl and, sometimes, the feel of a sanctuary away from the hustle too. To wit: I recently ran into a friend
of Mount Fuji. Here, its about rising above, and bustle. My tip: Break with convention after she spent a half-day at the spa and
rather than hiding away. The spa makes and skip the green tea, instead ordering a she had the glowy skin and sparkly eyes
use of traditional textiles with kimono-like cappuccino to nish off the experience of a woman who had just spent a week
fabrics and suibokuga artworks to frame particularly if youre in town on business and drinking green juices and swaying in a
the sense of identity. need to make it through your next meeting. hammock in a Wi-Fi-free location.

94 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


WHERE TO BUY

STOCKISTS
FASHION City, 00965-2-530 9997; Jeddah,
le by Alessandra at s*uce: 00966-12-668 7034; Riyadh,
Dubai, 00971-4-344 7270 00966-11-211 2627
Bedouin at bedouinstudios.com Hackett London Abu Dhabi,
Berluti Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-643 00971-2-412 4045; Dubai, 00971-
2068; Dubai, 00971-4-501 6965; 4-325 3237; Doha, 00974-4-029
Doha, 00974-4-416 1860 0224; Kuwait City, 00965-2-259
Bird & Knoll at qantasshop.com.au 7909; Jeddah, 00966-12-660
Brunello Cucinelli Doha, 7906; Riyadh, 00966-11-466 4703
00974-4-407 7179; Riyadh, H&M Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-695
00966-11-466 6331 8180; Dubai, 00971-4-315 3681;
Canada Goose canada-goose.com Muscat, 00968-2447 0570;
Christian Louboutin Abu Dhabi, Doha, 00974-4-450 7330;
00971-2-412 4030; Dubai, 00971- Manama, 00973-1-756 4606;
4-325 3935; Doha 00974-4-450 Kuwait City, 00965-2-228 3057; Buy colourful artworks at
7004; Manama 00973-1-717 Jeddah, 00966-12-612 3594; Bogyoke Market, Yangon
8076; Kuwait City 00965-2-297 Riyadh, 00966-11-253 4801
9011; Jeddah 00966-12-261 0304; Joseph at The Outnet:
Riyadh 00966-11-211 2819 theoutnet.com Jeddah, 00966-1-2284 2862; Kuwait City, 00965-2-530 9656;
Diesel Abu Dhabi, 00971-2- Kingsman at Mr Porter: Riyadh, 00966-1-1293 9440 Jeddah, 00966-12-660 0720
674 9125; Dubai, 00971-4-339 mrporter.com The Kooples Abu Dhabi, 00971- Christopher Ward
8615; Doha, 00974-4-495 3876 Louis Vuitton Abu Dhabi, 00971- 2-566 6141; Dubai, 00971-4-434 christopherward.co.uk
ext. 1701; Manama, 00973-1-717 2-681 2166; Dubai, 00971-4-330 0626; Doha, 00974-4-4-73 9618 Gucci at Rivoli: Abu Dhabi,
8080; Kuwait City, 00965-2-530 8060; Doha, 00974-4-413 4931; Tumi Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-673 00971-2-681 3035; Dubai, 00971-
9727; Jeddah, 00966-12-606 Manama, 00973-1-753 7543; 8574; Dubai, 00971-4-339 8536; 4-341 3121; Muscat, 00968-2-455
2286; Riyadh, 00966-11-281 Kuwait City, 00965-2-220 0522; Kuwait City, 00965-2-220 0596 8290; Doha, 00974-4-479 0107
4502/00966-11-461 4293 Riyadh, 00966-11-211 2705 Valentino Abu Dhabi, 00971-2- Ileana Makri at lyst.com
Dior Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681 Ludwig Reiter at stylebop.com 681 6025; Dubai, 00971-4-339 IWC Schaffhausen Abu Dhabi,
7477; Dubai, 00971-4-330 Marysia at Net-A-Porter: 8347; Manama, 00973-1-713 1458; 00971-2-681 1557; Dubai, 00971-
8739; Doha, 00974-4-413 4665; net-a-porter.com Kuwait City, 00965-2-220 0654; 4-339 8111; Kuwait City, 00965-
Manama, 00973-1-753 4160; Mandarina Duck Dubai, Jeddah, 00966-12-261 1660 2-530 9870
Kuwait City, 00965-2-297 9021; 00971-4-434 3133 Yosuzi at Boutique 1: Dubai, Leivankash at Boom & Mellow:
Riyadh, 00966-11-211 2452 Miu Miu Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681 00971-4-425 7888 Dubai, 00971-4-344 4512
Dries Van Noten at 4920; Doha, 00974-4-464 4082; Z Zegna Abu Dhabi, 00971-2- Longines at Rivoli: Abu Dhabi,
Bloomingdales: Dubai, 00971- Kuwait City, 00965-2-530 9780 677 7008; Dubai, 00971-4-339 00971-2-681 3035; Dubai, 00971-
4-350 5333 Nike at Namshi: namshi.com 9408; Doha, 00974-4-407 7212; 4-434 2542; Muscat, 00968-2-455
Eden Park Abu Dhabi, 00971-2- ONA at Gulf Photo Plus: Dubai, Manama, 00973-1-753 0406; 8290; Doha, 00974-4-479 0107
565 0901; Dubai, 00971-4-434 00971-4-380 8545 Kuwait City, 00965-2 299 6444; Maurice Lacroix at Paris Gallery:
1537; Kuwait City, 00965- 2- Prada Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-491 Jeddah, 00966-12-661 2812; Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681 6662;
259 7862 9287; Dubai, 00971-4-501 6990; Riyadh, 00966-11-465 9426 Dubai, 00971-4-330 8289;
Elisabetta Franchi Abu Dhabi, Doha, 00974-4-464 4908; Manama, 00973-1-717 8581
00971-2-491 6690; Dubai, 00971- Kuwait City, 00965-2-530 9782 BEAUTY Panerai Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-
04-330 8280; Doha, 00974-4- Promod Abu Dhabi, 00971-2- Dior at Harvey Nichols: Dubai, 491 9748; Dubai, 00971-4-339
463 1366; Kuwait City, 00965- 681 8050; Dubai, 00971-4-339 00971-4-409 8888; Kuwait City, 8444; Muscat, 00968-22-00
2-259 7067 9069; Doha, 00974-4-483 5160; 00965-2-228 3008; Riyadh, 9993; Doha, 00974-4-451 9866;
Etro Dubai, 00971-4-330 8774; Jeddah, 00966-12-612 2577; 00966-11-273 4444 Manama, 00973-1-743 1166;
Doha, 00974-4-495 3876 ext Riyadh, 00966-11-449 6949 Kure Bazaar at Comptoir 102: Kuwait City, 00965-2-227 0218;
1981; Manama, 00973-1-717 8459; Proenza Schouler at Boutique 1: Dubai, 00971-4-385 4555 Jeddah, 00966-12-284 0529;
Jeddah, 00966-12-665 6808; Dubai, 00971-4-425 7888 Lancaster at Paris Gallery: Abu Riyadh, 00966-11-462 6558
Riyadh, 00966-11-211 1060 Ray-Ban ray-ban.com Dhabi, 00971-2-681 6662; Dubai, Rolex at Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons:
Fendi Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681 Rimowa at Harvey Nichols: 00971-4-330 8289; Manama, Dubai, 00971-4-355 9090
3553; Dubai, 00971-4-339 9782; Dubai, 00971-4-409 8888; 00973-1-717 8581 Seiko at Al-Futtaim Watches
Doha, 00974-4-460 0945; Kuwait City, 00965-2-228 3008; & Jewellery: Abu Dhabi,
Manama, 00973-1-332 0505; Riyadh, 00966-11-273 4444 WATCHES & JEWELLERY 00971-2-681 1665; Dubai,
Jeddah, 00966-12-284 2803; Samsonite Abu Dhabi, 00971-2- Ana de Costa anadecosta.com 00971-4-325 3699
Riyadh, 00966-11-462 6098 645 6465; Dubai, 00971-4-339 Annoushka annoushka- Trussardi at Paris Gallery: Abu
Frame Denim at Net-A-Porter: 8690; Muscat, 00968-24-55 jewellery.com Dhabi, 00971-2-681 6662; Dubai,
net-a-porter.com 8110; Doha, 00974-4-469 0895; Blancpain at Rivoli: Abu Dhabi, 00971-4-330 8289; Manama,
Gianvito Rossi at Harvey Nichols: Manama, 00973-1-717 9657; 00971-2-681 3035; Dubai, 00971- 00973-1-717 8581
Dubai, 00971-4-409 8888; Kuwait City, 00965-2-259 7729; 4-341 3121; Muscat, 00968-2-455
Kuwait City, 00965-2-228 3008; Jeddah, 00966-12-643 1478; 8290; Doha, 00974-4-479 0107 MISCELLANEOUS
Riyadh, 00966-11-273 4444 Riyadh, 00966-11-211 3277 Bulgari Abu Dhabi, 00971-2- Canon at Virgin Megastore:
Giuseppe Zanotti Dubai, 00971- Sensi Studio at Boutique 1: 681 8828; Dubai, 00971-4-330 Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-644 7882;
4-341 3117; Doha, 00974-4-495 Dubai, 00971-4-425 7888 8834; Doha, 00974-44-413 4568; Dubai, 00971-4-341 4353; Doha,
3876; Kuwait City, 00965-2-220 T by Alexander Wang at Kuwait City, 00965-2-299 6498; 00974-4-495 9060; Manama,
PHOTO: ALAMY

0736; Jeddah, 00966-12-283 BySymphony: bysymphony.com Jeddah, 00966-12-669 7229; 00973-1-717 2300
5566; Riyadh, 00966-11-462 3032 Tods Abu Dhabi, 00971-2- Riyadh, 00966-11-460 2800 S.T. Dupont Abu Dhabi, 00971-
Gucci Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681 681 6562; Dubai, 00971-4-341 Cartier Abu Dhabi, 00971-2- 2-412 4105; Doha, 00974-4-434
6844; Dubai, 00971-4-341 0669; 3033; Doha, 00974-4-413 4937; 491 9716; Dubai, 00971-4-434 1765; Kuwait City, 00965-2-259
Doha, 00974-4- 413 4612; Kuwait Manama, 00973-1-713 1090; 0434; Doha, 00974-4-450 7798; 8040; Riyadh, 00966-11-211 1085

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 95


MOST WANTED
A look at what caught our eye this month, from airline upgrades to healthy escapes

Lounge in luxury T
The next time you travel with Etihad to New York, retreat
to the airlines new First and Business Class Lounge at John
F. Kennedy International Airport. Enjoy la carte dining or
the international buffet, with creative cocktail and mocktails
at the bar. Guests can lounge in luxury in the customised
furniture by Boss, surrounded by the airlines signature
dcor reecting the various hues of the UAE landscape.
Further amenities include restrooms with showers and
changing rooms, dedicated male and female prayer rooms,
a library and luggage storage.
etihad.com

Join the club S


Enjoy exclusive privileges with Club InterContinental across 70 hotels
and resorts worldwide from the moment you book until your departure
from the hotel. Guests benet from customised services including
chauffeured airport transfers, complimentary pressing, daily turndown
service, and gourmet buffet breakfast, evening drinks and canaps in
the Club InterContinental Lounge.
clubintercontinental.com

Spring renewal T
Rejuvenate your health this March with the second annual
Wellness Month at Jumeirah Vittaveli in the Maldives. Book
a week-long health retreat featuring daily yoga sessions,
spa treatments, Talise Nutrition meals and customised
exercise regimens. Highlights include Talise Wellness
executive chef Gabi Kurz showcasing her culinary skills
and a surprise resident practitioner guiding guests on a
path to a healthier body and mind.
jumeirah.com

HEALTH REVIVAL S
Embark on a wellness journey with Six Senses Spas at a range of
destinations, from Oman and Thailand to the Maldives. Six Senses Integrated
Wellness offers an innovative approach to health including lifestyle and
nutritional advice, a personalised programme of spa treatments, tness and
wellness activities based on the preventative principles of Eastern medicine
blended with the results-oriented methods of the West. At the end of the
programme, each guest receives a follow-up consultation on how to
continue and maintain a healthy lifestyle at home.
sixsenses.com

96 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


MOST WANTED

From top: Enjoy

Turkish delight
Those ying to Istanbul or stopping through
a complimentary
tour of Istanbuls
top sights,
including
on the way to their nal destination have Ortaky Mosque,
much to look forward to thanks to Turkish when you
have a long
Airlines. The airlines lounge at Istanbul Atatrk stopover with
International Airport has been upgraded to Turkish Airlines;
include a childrens playground, library, billiards the airline ies
to over 280
area, prayer room, cinema, food stations, locker destinations
rooms, showers, golf simulators, Carrera racing,
massage beds, masseurs and a teleconference
Chefs prepare
section, available to Business Class passengers, gourmet fare at the
Miles&Smiles Elite and Elite Plus card holders airlines CIP Lounge
and Star Alliance Gold card holders. in Istanbul
When the new airport opens in Istanbul at
the end of 2017 (set to be the largest in the
world, with a capacity of up to 150 million
passengers annually), Turkish Airlines will offer
a complimentary lounge for its Economy Class
passengers making an international transit.
Turkish Airlines also offers free tours of Istanbul
for those with long stopovers.
The airline, which ies to over 280
destinations worldwide, launches a service to
Atlanta in May, and by early summer, it will y to
a total of nine destinations in America, including
Chicago, New York, Boston, Washington,
Houston, Los Angeles and San Francisco.
turkishairlines.com

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 97


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

Spa
HAVEN
Escape to a sanctuary in the city at
YHI Spa at Meli Dubai Hotel

P
urify your body and bring harmony to your
mind this new year at the exclusive YHI
Spa (named after the Australian Aboriginal
goddess of light, creation, and a solar deity).
Using prestigious products like Natura Biss and
Natus Marraketch, as well as luxury oils made
exclusively for the spa, the indulgent treatments will
nourish, revitalise, rejuvenate and relax the body and
create a sensation of total wellbeing. The award-
winning spas signature soothing lavender aroma
is complemented with dim lighting to illuminate
the natural light from the candles and soft mystical
music to awaken your spirit. Yhi Spa features six
massage rooms and one couples suite with private
Jacuzzi, as well as a Moroccan bath, Turkish bath and
color therapy. It also houses a fully equipped gym,
separate sauna and steam for men and women and a From top: Take
roof top swimming pool and is launching a 100sqm a dip in the pool;
enjoy a candlelit
indoor Jacuzzi that can cater up to 50 people, ideal treatment at YHI
for bridal showers or team-building events. Enjoy Spa; the spa is
unique massages like the Candle Massage, Four- located at the
hand Massage and Golf Massage or one of the rituals stylish Meli
Dubai Hotel
like the Lavender Desert Dream, including a scrub,
wrap and massage or the Pumpskin Escape with a
scrub and massage. Guests can also purchase YHI Spa
merchandise like towels, CDs, robe and oils to bring
the Zen to your home. For the ultimate treat, those
booking two spa treatments will also get one free
(valid for six months).

For more information, call 00971-4-376 7475 or visit melia.com

98 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

Dohas Museum
of Islamic Art

DESIGNS
ON DOHA
From shopping to gallery-hopping and dining, heres
what to tick off your checklist in the Qatari capital

L
anding in Qatar, visitors often think they can cover all everyone here. Part modern, part traditional, the country and
the small nation has to offer in a day or two. But the particularly the capital, Doha is full of contrasts. On the one
country has expanded rapidly in the past several years hand theres the sleek high rises of West Bay, gleaming ve-star
to become a ourishing business, cultural and festival hotels and malls the size of a couple of football elds. On the
destination with more to see and do than meets the eye. When other side are cultural sites like Souq Waqif, Souq Al Wakrah,
Qatar won the bid to host the FIFA 2022 World Cup, frantic Katara Cultural Village (katara.net), Qatar Foundation (qf.org.
construction began, with decaying buildings being torn down qa), Qatar National Convention Centre (qatarconvention.com)
to make way for bold architectural marvels like museums and and State Grand Mosque, which celebrate Islamic architecture
WORDS: NITYA SHUKLA

stadiums as well as creating open spaces. Whats more, and serve as a reminder of the past. And the country has shown
AED 735 billion is being invested in construction projects boldness by fostering a rich art culture, hosting artists like British
and AED 515 billion in transportation by 2022. Damien Hirst and Japanese Takashi Murakami.
With the highest GDP per capita in the world, and thousands A good place to start your exploration of this multifaceted
of expats landing on a weekly basis, the country is set to country is with its buzzing capital, Doha. Here, the places to eat
experience the highest population growth rate in the world. and drink, what to see and do and where you should bed down
Which is why Qatar is making sure there is something for in Qatars biggest metropolis.

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 99


CULTURE
Dohas ancient souks and heritage sites sit
alongside modern man-made wonders

The caf at
MIA Park

WHAT TO SEE & DO therapy then escape to the Falcon Souq stroll along the paved path leading up to the
The cubistic pyramid building that houses (within the souk premises). The majestic sweeping, open-air Katara Amphitheatre
the Museum of Islamic Art (mia.org.qa) birds sit quietly with their eyes covered as and The Opera House. Get your art x at the
is as iconic as it is simple (deceptively so), their caretakers allow tourists to take photos Katara Art Studios or take in some culture
with a magnicent limestone exterior that with them perched on their arms. If you like at The Masjid of Katara mosque. At the
reects sunlight. MIA, designed by award- Souq Waqif, drive out to the neighbouring Sukar Pasha Ottoman Lounge (sukarpasha.
winning Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei district of Al Wakrah (20 minutes away) qa), the resident chef resurrects recipes
(who also created the glass pyramid of the to see its twin project, Souq Al Wakrah. that date back hundreds of years. The
Louvre), is a hub of art and cultural activities, Built alongside a corniche-like promenade, Egyptian eatery Khan Farouk Tarab Caf
with a collection of some of the worlds most where you can sit and savour Arabic coffee (khanfarouktarabcafe.com) and Kunafa &
impressive artworks. While there, its worth as the waves gently roll in, there are many Shawarma Albisana (00974-4408 1200)
checking out the attached Al Riwaq Exhibition restaurants and coffee shops, and traditional serve delectable kebabs, while LWzaar
Hall, which pushes the envelope by hosting dhows parked on the sands. (lwzaar.com) is the spot for seafood.
artists like Damien Hirst (Relics) and Takashi The State Grand Mosque, in the Jubailat Not far from Katara is The Pearl-Qatar
Murakami (Ego). Head to MIA Park (mia.org. district, overlooking the Qatar Sports Club in (thepearlqatar.com). One of Dohas most
qa), home to a childrens park, which leads West Bay, is another example of Islamic and ambitious projects, the articial islands Porto
to a quaint little caf overlooking the Arabian modern architecture featuring sparkling half Arabia feels like youve entered another
Gulf and the sleek, shiny buildings of West Bay moons, minarets and large outdoor spaces. country altogether with fabulous high-rise
across the water. Shop at the MIA kiosk and, in Holding up to 30,000 worshippers, a tour can buildings towering above while high fashion
the winter and spring months, at the MIA Park be arranged by your hotel concierge. and dining options stretch out before you.
Bazaar, a popular social event at which you The crescent shaped Doha Corniche Dont miss the Venetian-style Qanat Quartier,
can discover talented local and expat artists. promenade is a local favourite, where tness with its canals and candy-coloured buildings.
Directly opposite the Museum of Islamic enthusiasts sweat it out while others take Relax by the marina, admiring the fabulous
Art is the bustling old-world bazaar Souq a stroll or relax in the sun. A dhow ride is a yachts in the bay then grab a bite at Emporio
Waqif, alive with open-air shisha lounges, a relaxing and enjoyable activity. Armani Caff (armanirestaurants.com).
bangle-maker from India and hawkers who The Katara Cultural Village (katara.net) Just outside Doha, youll need a few
invite you to try the fava bean street snacks. has beautiful theatres, concert halls, exhibition hours to explore Sheikh Faisal Bin Qassim
Walk around and indulge in some retail galleries and ne-dining restaurants. Take a Al Thani Museum (00974-486 1444) and its

100 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

The Pearl-Qatar
harbour. Left: A caf
in Souq Waqif

SOUQ WAQIF IS Katara Cultural Village

ALIVE WITH OPEN-AIR


SHISHA LOUNGES AND
HAWKERS WHO INVITE
YOU TO TRY THE
STREET SNACKS
15,000 pieces ranging from fossils to Islamic
art (decorative arts, manuscripts, textiles,
ceramics, metalworks), prized automobiles
(including rare Ford T cars) and coins and
currencies from the Islamic world.
In ancient times, Doha was a centre for the
pearl trade and home to most of the countrys
inhabitants. Explore this bit of history at Al
Zubarah (qm.org.qa). Once a thriving pearl,
shing and trading port, Al Zubarah is a
superbly preserved example of an 18th- and
19th-century Gulf merchant town. In 2013 it
WORDS: NITYA SHUKLA; PHOTOS: CORBIS

received UNESCO World Heritage Site status,


though travellers ocked to it long before.
The Film City and Zekreet beach, close
to Dukhan will appeal to those who seek
off-roading adventures. The Zekreet beach is
awash with historic sites and remnants of old
settlements. However, if youre short on time,
Al Koot Fort near the Doha Corniche, built in
1927 by Sheikh Abdullah bin Qassim
Al Thani to protect the nearby Souq Waqif
from would-be thieves, can offer a taste of
history and architecture.

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 101


REVEAL
THE
UNEXPECTED
STAY IN STYLE
Each room is lled with iconic
design, tech savvy amenities
& a stylish decor. Savor award-
winning cuisine or play the
night away while listening to
the latest world beats in any
of our restaurants & lounges.
Welcome to where amplied
entertainment & innovative
cuisine are within reach of
W Doha.

FOR MORE INFORMATION


+974 4453 5000
whoteldoha.com
info.wdoha@whotels.com
Hakkasan Doha
at The St. Regis

W Dohas
Spice Market

(Lebanese spiced potatoes) and mains like


kebabs and shawarma alongside freshly
baked bread. The service is quick and they
dont mind if you linger on for hours.
00974-5551 3950

ARYAAS
In the mood for vegetarian fare? Aryaas
serves piping-hot South Indian street-food
like dosa and rasam. Things may get a bit
spicy you have been warned.
aryaasqatar.com

HALUL CAF
A humble caf that crops up out of nowhere
if youre walking from the Museum of Islamic
Art toward the corniche promenade. A
local institution, its known for its shisha,

DINING
outdoor and indoor seating options, rustic
furniture and waiters who greet you like
an old friend. Youll see locals playing a
variety of card games here.

CHAPATI & KARAK


At Chapati & Karak in the Katara Cultural
Village you get exactly that. A hot cup of
Doha is home to traditional eateries, Michelin- strong karak chai and a warm Kerala-style
parotta (bread). Dip the bread in the tea,
starred restaurants and stylish lounges and clubs take a bite and let the avours take over.
katara.net
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK The Hakka cocktail along with crispy
SAFFRON LOUNGE scallops with pine nuts or the fried BREAD AND BAGELS
Indian cuisine gets a creative twist from Hakkasan dumplings. Bread and Bagels at Beach Tower, West
Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia hakkasan.com Bay, near the Diplomatic district is a bright
at Saffron Lounge in Katara Cultural and cheery place to go for a breakfast
Village. The menu is based on the adage CIAO bagel with a variety of cheese selections.
less is more, with dishes from different Serving authentic Italian cuisine, this On most evenings, youll nd expat writer
parts of the country. The restaurants take restaurant is disarmingly simple and is groups and poetry clubs (check with
on Indian street food, chaat, is worth the owned and operated by an Italian family individual groups about the timings).
trip alone. Express lunches and set who are passionate when it comes to breadandbagels.com
menus are also available. debates on what constitutes a good pizza.
saffronlounge.net 00974-4468 9100 RICS KOUNTRY KITCHEN
Rics Kountry Kitchen on Ras Abu Abboud
HAKKASAN DOHA GRAND JOUD CAF & RESTAURANT Street, Umm Ghuwailina, is a popular spot
Exquisite yet private, this is one of the Behind the Radisson Blu Hotel, this is one for a hearty Friday morning breakfast. Some
best lounges in Doha, set in The St. Regis of Dohas best-kept secrets with a shisha say this is one of the oldest expat-run hubs
gardens with private dining available. lounge and a restaurant serving authentic in the area and it has stood the test of time.
Head for the Ling Ling lounge and order Arabic mezze like hummus, batata harra 00974-4443 7846

104 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

The Ritz-Carlton
Belgian Caf at Dohas Admirals Club
InterContinental Doha

Sky View at
La Cigale Hotel
THE CELLAR
At this bar at Oryx Rotana, the grape
collection matches the tapas with a wide
selection. On Tuesday nights you can get
unlimited grape for AED 300 per person
and unlimited tapas for AED 160 per person.
rotana.com

SPICE MARKET
Spice Market at W Doha offers a modern
take on Southeast Asian street food like
the spiced chicken samosa served with
cilantro yoghurt or the steamed lobster in
butter-fried garlic, ginger and dried chilli
that will please the most discerning palates.
The lounge has one of the best happy hour
menus and it lls up quickly.
spicemarketdoha.com

CHAMPIONS
Champions at Marriott Marquis City Center
A LOCAL INSTITUTION, centre stage, with award-winning musicians
putting on top-notch performances. The
Doha offers an authentic sports bar
experience with 47 LCD TV screens, private
ITS KNOWN FOR comfort food offered here is inspired by
New York and New Orleans.
rooms, ice-cold drinks and sliders that are ITS SHISHA, RUSTIC jalcdoha.com
piping hot and bursting with avour. The
dress code is smart casual although you see FURNITURE AND WAITERS ADMIRALS CLUB

WHO GREET YOU LIKE


many corporate honchos unwinding here The Ritz-Carlton Doha Admirals Club faces
after a hard day of deal-making. the marina and takes full advantage with an
marriottmarquisdohadining.com
AN OLD FRIEND inviting outdoor patio and seating area, ideal
for balmy evenings. Burgers and calamari
BELGIAN CAF come highly recommended and theres an
Belgian Caf at InterContinental Doha is on the 55th and 56th oor of the extensive drinks menu.
a universal favourite, with a range of hops glamorous InterContinental Doha - The ritzcarlton.com
imported from Europe, juicy, steaming City, and the two-hour happy hour is a
mussels and wafes (of course). Its one of winner. The interiors are soft and dark, SKY VIEW
WORDS: NITYA SHUKLA

the most relaxed addresses in town and is though the uorescent lights come on An award-winning lounge at La Cigale Hotel,
packed to the rafters most weekends. when its party time. this is one of the most frequented hotspots.
ihg.com ihg.com Located on Suhaim Bin Hamad Street, the
open-air seated lounge has a sophisticated
STRATA LOUNGE JAZZ AT LINCOLN CENTER DOHA feel. Sip cool drinks while watching the lights
The beautiful 360-degree views of Doha Jazz lovers head to this soulful club at of Doha twinkle far below.
are reason enough to visit Strata Lounge, The St. Regis Doha, where the music takes lacigalehotel.com

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 105


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

ORIENTAL
escape
Sharq Village & Spa is a treat for your mind, body and soul

L
ocated in an area known Qatari design elements such as weaving
as Sharq or the Orient, A treatment room at the
pathways, cascading fountains and lush hotels Six Senses Spa. Above:
Sharq Village & Spa is a greenery, all aimed at creating a sense The Qatari village-inspired
luxury beachfront property of inner peace and holistic wellbeing. resort overlooks Doha Bay
overlooking Doha Bay, 15 minutes Traditional Arabian, Thai and Swedish
from the city centre. Inspired by therapies are performed by trained
the culture and architecture of a international therapists in the 23
traditional Qatari village, the 174-room treatment rooms, with treatments
resort, operated by The Ritz-Carlton ranging from an Arabian facial to a de-
Hotel Company, blends authentic stress massage. Also on offer are holistic
Arabian architecture with the very therapies such as naturopathy, and
latest in modern comforts. Offering specialist visiting practitioners bring an
some of the most imaginative dining even wider range of services to the spa.
experiences in Doha, the options State-of-the-art facilities also include
range from beachfront seafood exercise areas, changing, relaxation and
restaurant Al Dana to Persian eatery prayer rooms, and spaces to practice
Parisa and all-day-dining Al Liwan; everything from Tai Chi to meditation.
a rooftop shisha terrace and a cigar Qualied instructors are on hand for
lounge are prime evening spots. personal or group training. The Six
Sharq Village & Spa also houses Senses Spa also offers an exclusive
over 1,130sqm of conference space ladies entrance and reception area, a
including two impressive ballrooms, a private gym and exercise area, as well
boardroom and a grand reception foyer, as a full-service beauty salon with hair,
making it the ideal venue for events nail and henna treatments.
and business meetings.
The 6,500sqm Six Senses Spa is the For more information, please call
largest in the region, with four separate 00974-4425 6666 or visit ritzcarlton.com/
spa villages incorporating traditional en/Properties/SharqVillage

106 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


Let us offer you Arabian hospitality at its finest.

Let us teach you about our rich Qatari heritage.

Let us wrap you in luxury and comfort.

Let us keep a place in your heart.

2016 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company


TRAVELLER PROMOTION
Villaggio shopping
mall. Below:
Mall of Qatar

The stalls of
Souq Waqif

SHOPPING
Pick from expansive electronics, accessories and jewellery;
Amouage (amouage.com) with perfumes
malls, vibrant souks developed by some of the worlds top noses
from Paris, Geneva and New York; and
and unique boutiques Kare Qatar (kare-design.com), which offers
creative solutions for designer living.
WHERE TO SHOP If you love labels like Missoni and
The Italian-themed Villaggio (villaggioqatar. Moschino, stop by The Gate Mall
com) features dreamy Venetian interiors and (thegatemall.com) where youll also
a 150m-long indoor canal with gondolas. nd Salam Department Store (salams.
com) offering 300 of the worlds top
ITS LIKE DISNEYLAND
Kids will love the Gondolania Theme Park,
which includes an Olympic-sized ice rink, a designer labels.
bowling centre and a rollercoaster. At the
heart of the mall is a luxury section lined
Well worth the trek, City Center Doha
(citycenterdoha.com) in the West Bay
BUT WITH 5 00 STORES,
with heavyweights like Louis Vuitton, Dior,
Gucci, Valentino and Tom Ford.
area has a great mix of high-street brands
as well as a massive skating rink and
100 RESTAURANTS AND
The Mall of Qatar (mallofqatar.com.qa), childrens entertainment options. 1 9 CINEMA SCREENS
adjacent to the Al Rayyan FIFA World Cup The Pearl-Qatar (thepearlqatar.com)
stadium, is a massive venue for shopping, is an exclusive island connected to the the gold thread-embedded bisht (traditional
dining and entertainment with the worlds mainland with a host of designer boutiques robes for formal events), honey from Yemen,
rst 360-degree professional theatre and including Alexander McQueen, Herms and dates from Qatar, Saudi Arabia and Oman,
the largest IMAX laser 3D projection system Giuseppe Zanotti Design. Take a stroll along Iranian spices (sumac, saffron) and freshly
WORDS: NITYA SHUKLA; PHOTOS: CORBIS

in the world. Its like Disneyland but with 500 the waterfront to check out the beautiful made bread. You can also buy traditional
retail stores, 100 restaurants and a complex yachts or enjoy some post-shopping dining. Arabic musical instruments like oud or
of 19 cinema screens. The ve-star Fashion The site where Souq Waqif stands has darbuka (Arabic drums). Souq Waqif also
Hotel, part of the Curio Collection by Hilton, been a marketplace for over 250 years has prayer beads made of genuine amber. To
is attached to the mall and a good option for where, historically, locals and Bedouins test their authenticity, rub the beads against
shopaholics who need to take a break. would travel to buy and sell sh, goats and your knuckles and a delicate scent will
If crowds arent your thing, head out wool. Located on Grand Hamad Street emerge. Not far from here is the Gold Souq,
to Lagoona Mall (lagoonamall.com), behind the corniche, the souk is vibrant and near Al Fardan Centre, which is home to
located near The Pearl-Qatar. The shopping includes traditional Qatari design elements over 40 shops selling jewellery brands from
destination is home to lifestyle department like mud-rendered walls, exposed timber all over the world. For ultra-luxe jewellery,
store Fifty One East (51east.com.qa), beams and cobbled lanes. Explore the maze dont miss standalone stores like Damas,
offering globally renowned lines of clothing, of alleyways where youll nd tailors creating Malabar Gold and Prakkat Jewellery.

108 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


WEEKEND ESCAPE
AT THE FINEST
ADDRESS IN QATAR

Escape to an exclusive destination,


where every moment becomes
a treasure and every experience
a family tradition.

Experience the nest 336 Rooms


& Suites in Doha. Savor avors from
eleven extraordinary restaurants &
lounges including Gordon Ramsay,
and Jazz at Lincoln Center. The joy
of leisure redened by The St. Regis
Doha. Come, explore.

al gassar resort at west bay


stregisdoha.com
974.4446.0000

A LEGACY OF LUXURY .
NOW AT OVER 30 OF THE WORLD S
FINEST HOTELS & RESORTS .
AFRICA THE AMERICAS ASIA
EUROPE THE MIDDLE EAST
20102015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG,
St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. stregis.com

St Regis_Conde Nast Traveller_Weekend_21.5x27.5.indd 1 12/16/15 1:17 PM


HOTELS
From beachfront retreats to city
escapes, youll be spoilt for choice A seaview pool villa at
Banana Island Resort
Doha by Anantara

WHERE TO STAY Dining divided into the Royal Villa, King Suites, Two
THE TORCH DOHA The Lagoon (Arabic, Middle Eastern); Porcini Bedroom Suites and Deluxe Rooms.
Within walking distance of the Aspire Zone, Restaurant (Italian/Mediterranean); La Mer Doubles from AED 1,250; ritzcarlton.com
Khalifa Stadium and Villaggio, the Torch is (French); The Lobby Lounge (continental); Dining
easily the most recognisable landmark in Flamingos (caf); Habanos (lounge) Cigar Lounge; Al Jalsa (desserts); Parisa
Al Sadd. Shaped like a aming torch, the (Persian); Al Liwan (continental); Al
elegant hotel is a 40-minute drive from BANANA ISLAND RESORT DOHA Dana (seafood); Al Wanis Shisha Terrace
the airport and 20 minutes from West Bay. BY ANANTARA (Lebanese); Al Seef Snack Bar (Arabic); Sea
The 163 rooms and suites feature a unique Voted as one of Dohas top luxury hotel Lounge; Gazebo (private beach dining)
iPad in-room solution, mood lighting and and spas, this Arabian resort has an 800m
interactive LED TVs. The Torch Tea Garden private beach and a 100m-long lagoon pool. INTERCONTINENTAL DOHA
on the 21st oor overlooks the swimming The Anantara Spa offers unbeatable services With 500m of sandy beach and
pool and the Aspire Zone. For a relaxed for wellness and rejuvenation. The property landscaped gardens, InterContinental
afternoon, try the Deep Renewal Massage is located on Banana Island, 20 minutes Doha is located on West Bay Lagoon.
at the Quan spa. from the international airport, and accessible The popular hotel is home to Belgian Caf,
Doubles from AED 1,500, thetorchdoha.com by luxury yacht, ferry or private helicopter. a hit with Doha residents. The property
Dining There are 141 rooms, suites, pool villas and boasts 258 rooms, divided into Classic
Panorama (seafood); Three Sixty (revolving over-water villas. Rooms, Executive Rooms and Suites, which
restaurant); Flying Carpet (all-day dining); Doubles from AED 1,535; doha.anantara.com come with multimedia panels and iHome
Sky, La Vida, Kuc, Almas (lounges); Torch Dining docking stations. The hotel also has
Tea Garden Azraq (international); Q Lounge & Restaurant fantastic city and marina views.
(Mediterranean); Teds (American); Riva Doubles from AED 1,050; ihg.com
THE RITZ-CARLTON DOHA (Italian); Al Nahham (Middle Eastern) Dining
The opulent Ritz-Carlton Doha is tucked Belgian Caf (Belgian); Paloma (Texmex);
away on an island, a few minutes from SHARQ VILLAGE & SPA Coral All Day Dining (buffet); Mykonos
Lagoona Mall. The entrance pathway is This tranquil oasis is ideal if you prefer rustic, (Greek/Mediterranean); Fish Market
lined with palm trees and opens up to this traditional architecture and design. Just (seafood); Lava Lounge; Pool Bar
palatial hotel, the lone giant in the skyline. 12 minutes from the international airport,
The rooms afford beautiful panoramas of Sharq Village & Spa is known for its award- THE ST. REGIS DOHA
the coast and Doha city. There are 374 guest winning Six Senses Spa offering a peaceful This stellar property has been in the news
rooms, 61 luxury suites and 42 club rooms. retreat. The bustling city, the corniche, since its debut a few years ago, setting new
If youre a swimmer, youll love the indoor Museum of Islamic Art and Souq Waqif standards with its signature St. Regis Butler
and outdoor options with a swim-up bar, lie a few minutes away, yet barely a sound Service. Home to Jazz at Lincoln Center
whirlpool, plunge pool and childrens pool. is heard above the gentle crash of the Doha, which hosts top jazz musicians, as well
Doubles from AED 1,050; ritzcarlton.com waves. The property has 174 rooms, sub- as the Remde Spa, the 336-room property,

110 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


TRAVELLER PROMOTION

A sea-view room at
Four Seasons Hotel
Doha. Left: The pool
at Sharq Village & Spa

part of the Al Gassar Resort, is ideal for


both business and leisure travellers. The
Katara Cultural Village is within walking
distance of the property.
Doubles from AED 1,200; stregisdoha.com The St. Regis Doha
Dining an impressive outdoor pool. Located in
The Rooftop (lounge); Vintage Lounge; West Bay, the hotel is a short walk from
Al-Sultan Brahim (Lebanese); Hakkasan City Center Mall.
(Chinese, Cantonese); Vine Restaurant Doubles from AED 1,330; whoteldoha.com
(international); Sarab Lounge (caf); Dining
Astor Grill (steakhouse); Oyster Bay & Bar Spice Market (Asian); La Spiga By
(Caribbean); Opal By Gordon Ramsay Paper Moon (Italian); Market by Jean-
(European); Jazz at Lincoln Center Doha Georges (international), Wahm Lounge;
(New Orleans comfort food); Gordon Crystal Lounge
Ramsay (Mediterranean)
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL DOHA
LA CIGALE HOTEL With a fabulous location facing the Arabian
This trendy, upscale property is home to Gulf and home to the Robert De Niro-owned
the super-exclusive Club 7 nightclub and Japanese restaurant Nobu Doha, this
the open-air lounge Madison Piano Bar. stylish 232-room property features massive
Business travellers will love its location, French windows, a private beach, a marina
easy access and the superb Wi-Fi and ve swimming pools including the
connectivity. The hotel has 225 rooms and grotto pools. The three-storey spa offers
suites including the Business Suite, Junior an impressive array of services.
Suite and Executive Suite, and also features Doubles from AED 1,800; fourseasons.
an indoor pool and full-service spa. com/doha
Market by Jean-
Doubles from AED 1,080; lacigalehotel.com Dining Georges at W Doha
Dining Nobu Doha (Japanese); Pool Grill
Sky View Lounge; Madison Piano Bar (continental); Il Teatro (Italian); Shisha
(lounge); Shisha Garden (Lebanese); Terrace (Lebanese); Library Bar; Cigar
Orangery Caf Trottoir (Middle Eastern); Lounge; Arabica Caf; Seasons Tea Lounge;
Le Cigalon (international); Di Capri (Italian); Aprs Spa Caf (healthy fare)
Le Central (Mediterranean, seafood); Yen
Sushi Bar (Japanese) SHANGRI-LA DOHA
The ve-star property is the new kid on the
W DOHA HOTEL & RESIDENCES block, a 50-oor tower in West Bay that
This swanky 442-room hotel is the place boasts a lagoon-shaped pool. Style and
to be seen and is high on design with design are high points here, as youll see in
artistic interiors and world-class service. A the 272 guest rooms and suites. Close to
20-minute ride from the airport, this is one Souq Waqif, the corniche and West Bay, the
WORDS: NITYA SHUKLA

of Dohas few pet-friendly hotels. W Doha hotel also offers views of the Arabian Gulf.
houses meeting rooms equipped with state- Doubles from AED 1,095;
of-the-art technology and multiple venues shangri-la.com/doha
for business events and conferences. Leisure Dining
travellers enjoy its hip vibe and spectacular Shanghai Club (Cantonese, Chinese); Fuego
city and water views. Bliss Spa is an award- (steakhouse); The Den; Yabby (seafood);
winning centre to relax and rejuvenate with Sridan (Middle Eastern)

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 111


TRAVELLER PROMOTION
The hotel is situated
on a private island
on The Pearl-Qatar

The innity pool and


private beach. Right:
A Deluxe Room
THE SPA BY CLARINS
OFFERS HEAVENLY
TREATMENTS INCLUDING
THE MARSA MALAZ
SIGNATURE HAMMAM

MARSA MALAZ KEMPINSKI, The hotel is located 30 minutes


THE PEARL DOHA from Hamad International Airport, a
European air meets Arabian design 10-minute drive from West Bay and
and hospitality at this lavish property ve minutes from Katara Cultural
set on a pristine stretch of private Village, though you may never want to
beach on The Pearl-Qatar. The 281 leave this scenic man-made island.
luxurious rooms include 69 suites, Doubles from AED 1,200;
two Presidential Suites and two Royal kempinski.com
Suites. The hotel features outdoor Dining
PHOTOS: ANGEL MALLARI

pools, private butlers, state-of-the-art Sawa (international); Al Sufra (Levant);


gym technology and tennis courts. El Faro (Spanish); Toro Toro (pan-
The Palazzo Ballroom stretches Latin); Antica Pesa (Italian); Nozomi
over 1,100sqm, ideal for events and (Japanese); Amwage Beach (al-fresco
conferences, while The Spa by Clarins grill); Illusion (rooftop lounge); Bohemia
offers heavenly treatments including (lounge); Caf Murano (gourmet caf);
the Marsa Malaz Signature Hammam. Vitamine Caf (healthy food)

112 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


Room with a view SPAIN SHA WELLNESS CLINIC, ALICANTE

The picturesque Bay of


Altea can be explored
by catamaran or on a
diving expedition

WORDS: RHEA SARAN

GRAND SUITE
Stepping through glass doors on to a balcony overlooking the clear blue with organic produce, most of which is cultivated on site. The SHA
of the Mediterranean Sea, it becomes quite clear that holistic wellness is method melds macrobiotic nutrition and natural healing therapies for
a priority at this destination clinic a soothing environment is, after all, longevity and optimised health, and programmes are tailored to each
key for recuperation. The mild microclimate in this corner of Alicante, guest, ranging from detox to anti-stress, sleep recovery and weight
next door to the Sierra Helada Natural Park, has been certied by the loss as well as non-invasive aesthetic improvements. Getting away to
World Health Organization as one of the worlds most favourable, so you a beautiful place can reset your mind; here, youve made the most of
can spend time guilt-free out on the suites spacious terrace breathing in your time away if youve reset your lifestyle.
that ne mountain air. Inside, modern interiors, 700-thread-count sheets
and a neutral colour palette keep things elegant yet comfortable; the Suites from AED 1,300 for double occupancy; Grand Suite
amenities are all organic. This is a theme throughout: the macrobiotic from AED 3,200 (sea views and Jacuzzi at additional cost);
molecular cuisine at SHAMADI, the clinics main restaurant, is prepared 0034-966-81 1199, shawellnessclinic.com

114 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


Discover a magical world
where time stands still

Rates starting from


RO 300*

*Taxes extra

INCLUSIONS
One night accommodation on full board basis Private dinner or picnic setup at select venues
Including and not limited to meals, snacks, beverages Royal Turn down- Milk bath setup if requested in the tent
Complimentary Minibar $OOLQKRXVHDFWLYLWLHV OLNH6DQGFDVWOHELF\FOHNLWH\LQJNLGVSOD\DUHD
Laundry on complimentary basis 24 hours check in and check out facility
Unlimited beverages through out the stay Complimentary in-room Wi-Fi access incl. reception, restaurant and Ballroom
Half-day car at disposal (one time) Complimentary use of the Fitness Centre and mini gym
Complimentary Spa treatment of choice

stay@dunesbyalnahda.com www.dunesbyalnahda.com facebook.com/DunesByAlNahda +968 9723 5700


MISSION PARTNER OF

Pristine Seas Expeditions Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe


Photograph: Aaron Wong

www.blancpain.com