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Land Use Policy 66 (2017) 288292

Contents lists available at ScienceDirect

Land Use Policy


journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/landusepol

The political economy of wine: How terroir and intra-sector dynamics aect MARK
land use in Spain

Pablo Alonso Gonzleza, , Eva Parga-Dansb, Alfredo Macas Vzquezc
a
Institute of Social Sciences, University of Lisbon. Av. Prof. Anbal Bettencourt, 9, 1600-189, Lisboa, Portugal
b
Group of Territorial Studies (GET), University of A Corua, Campus de Elvia, 15071, A Corua, Spain and CICS.NOVA, Universidade Nova de Lisboa, Av. de Berna,
26-C, 1069-061, Lisbon, Portugal
c
University of Len, Campus Vegazana, s/n, Len 15210, Spain

A R T I C L E I N F O A B S T R A C T

Keywords: This paper provides a constructive critique of Corrine Cash's paper Good governance and strong political will:
Terroir Are they enough for transformation?, published in volume 58 of Land Use Policy in 2016. By focusing on how
Governance intra-sector dynamics inuence land use policies in conicts revolving around urban sprawl, this paper aims to
Wine zoning complement and, to some extent, widen the analytic lens deployed by Cash. The examination of the Spanish wine
Spain
sector and its lack of zoning policies conrms Cash's argument about the need to go beyond discourses of good
Urban sprawl
governance and strong political will to understand the dynamics underpinning real spatial processes. However,
this exploration underscores the need to add layers of complexity to land use analyses, showing the relevance of
intra-sector conict and logics. In complicating any simplistic reduction of urban sprawl conicts to ruralurban
oppositions, the paper ultimately calls for a more dynamic and multiscalar planning theory to address complex
governance issues.

1. Introduction Vzquez, 2014). However, the question of wine and terroir introduces
another layer of complexity: wine is neither tangible nor intangible, but
The paper by Corrine Cash Good governance and strong political a relationship between human practices, soils, climates and grape
will: Are they enough for transformation? struck a chord with us and varieties that express terroir (Barrey and Teil, 2011). What are the
our own work with wine regions in Spain and Portugal. Cash's consequences of wine zoning in relation to terroir for the potential of
theoretical, methodological and thematic approach to land use policy rural and agricultural areas to resist urban sprawl? Answering this
is concomitant to ours. We felt that there was potential for a empirically oriented question leads us to a theoretical argument. We
constructive response after detecting one (for us) signicant absence feel that Cash's adoption of a critical political economy perspective is
in Cash's paper, namely the broad impact of wine policies and wine useful as an analytical framework, but it could benet from a planning
sector dynamics on land use. Although wine is not, in truth, the focus of theory counterpart emphasizing dynamism, ux and qualitative as-
her paper, she admits that it plays a key role in the two case study areas pects. The necessarily qualitative interpretive character of terroir calls
she presents. In building on Cash's work from the perspective of wine, for planning theories that advance not only a critique of power
we intend to open a much-needed debate on the relationship between structures but forms of planning encompassing dierent rhythms and
land use, heritage policies and the wine sector. Our response proceeds processes, such as the multiscalar ideas set out by Hillier (2008).
in opposite fashion: instead of developing our analysis starting from This commentary draws on data from a larger research project on
UNESCO biosphere or heritage reserves, we explore how the short- wine politics in Spain and Portugal whose results will be presented in
comings of intra-sectoral wine legislation and denominations of origin future publications. The project employs a qualitative approach. We
(DOs) lead civic society to seek alternative land use protective schemes rst carried out a literature review and a qualitative comparative
in heritage legislation. analysis of wine zoning policies, which underpins our presentation of
This entails exploring the complex convergence between wine the rst case focusing on Barcelona. Our aim was to obtain rst-hand
zoning, heritage and terroir. Our former work addressed the connection data from case studies deliberately chosen about zoning initiatives
between heritage and spatial planning (Alonso Gonzlez and Macas established by DOs to overcome low prices and economic decline. After


Viewpoint paper in response to Corrine Cash, 2016. Good governance and strong political will: Are they enough for transformation? Land Use Policy 50:301311.

Corresponding author.
E-mail addresses: Pabloag10@hotmail.com (P. Alonso Gonzlez), Eva.parga.dans@udc.es (E. Parga-Dans), Amacv@unileon.es (A. Macas Vzquez).

http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.landusepol.2017.04.048
Received 10 January 2017; Received in revised form 3 April 2017; Accepted 30 April 2017
0264-8377/ 2017 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
P. Alonso Gonzlez et al. Land Use Policy 66 (2017) 288292

Fig. 1. Wine DOs in Catalua. Peneds is number 8 and Priorat number 10.
Source: Instituto Cataln del Vino (INCAVI).

the literature review, we surveyed twenty experts who made a list of triggers displacements of people and capital: from the rural to the city
relevant successful/unsuccessful cases of DOs using the recall-method or vice versa.
based on their qualitative perceptions. This resulted in a list of 35 DOs, As Cash (2016, 550) argues, land use devices for the protection of
whose reliability was checked by comparing the results of the survey nature can increase the symbolic capital of rural areas, but this might be
with the economic performance of the DOs (average grape and wine not enough. When rural land prices are low and urban gentrication
prices in Spain and in exports). Then, we used a multiple case study processes are ongoing, land is valued by its residential potential rather
approach to provide a rich, representative and diverse view of four DOs than agricultural worth (2016, 547), and upper-middle classes ow to
(Rias Baixas and Priorat in Spain, Vinhos Verdes and Lisboa in rural and real estate investments displaces agricultural production. This
Portugal). is a well-known process in the Portuguese capital, Lisbon, where the
The key data source came from semi-structured interviews aimed at wine regions of Colares, Carcavelos and Bucelas have almost disappeared
tracing the key features of zoning and terroir, having interviewed from (Dickenson, 1990), but an unknown process in the most prestigious
January 2016 until January 2017 a total of 86 informants from the wine wine regions such as Bordeaux, Champagne or Burgundy, where the
sector, including producers, distributors, critics and other key actors. prices of wine parcels have been skyrocketing for decades (Ulin, 2002).
Informants were chosen following a snowball sampling strategy, and Unsurprisingly, the price of these elite French wines is higher than their
then interviewed based on semi-structured interviews to guide re- Portuguese counterparts. Most importantly, the price of grapes from
search, of between 60-180 minutes. Participant observation was also their high-quality terroirs is higher. In other words, what is determinant
employed to gain trust by informants, based on collaboration in wine for French wine regions to resist urban sprawl are not high land prices,
events, fairs and productive processes. Data analysis was based on but the high price of agricultural commodities.
conducting both within-case analysis and cross-case pattern search This can be illustrated through the case of Barcelona, a paradigm of
following Yin (2015). We analyzed the content of all the interviews gentrication processes. Barcelona's urban exodus has threatened the
conducted and the materials collected, grouping data into signicant agricultural region of Delta del Ebro and the wine DO of Alella (Recasens
categories of analysis, developing patterns and comparing key ele- et al., 2016). Two other wine regions are under threat of urban sprawl
ments. by both Barcelona and the nearby provincial capital of Tarragona: DO
Peneds and DO Priorat. As other Spanish DOs, Peneds and Priorat are
ruled by a Consejo Regulador (Regulatory Board), a trust funded by
2. Urban sprawl, wine and heritage: two dierent outcomes in both the own wine companies comprised in the DO and public funds.
Barcelona Regulatory Boards are, in theory, in charge of wine zoning policies in
their territories, and of ensuring coherence between wine zoning and
As Cash arms, good governance is not enough as economic other spatial planning legislation at other scales. However, the roles of
forces and powers have signicant inuence on outcomes. Regulatory Boards can vary signicantly. Peneds is a traditional wine
Furthermore, economic, social and political conditions that exist at region that epitomizes the attempt of rural social groups to contain
specic historical time periods steer the realities that shape planning Barcelona's urban sprawl. It provides almost 99% of the grape to make
outcomes (2016, 556). Certainly, in a neoliberal market, capital has the famous sparkling Catalan cava. In Peneds, the DO promotes a type
more power to move people and money than policies, and thus from a of viticulture seeking high yields in fertile lands rather than quality
critical political economy perspective we need to analyze what capital grapes on slopes. Despite being a DO, the zonication of wine terroirs in
in the wine sector does to land use planning. Geographers like Harvey Peneds is still incipient, and the sole fact of being a DO does not always
(2002) have shown how symbolic capital and monopoly rent strategies ensure protability for vine growers. Indeed, viticultural policies have
are key to increasing the value of land and real estate, and how this

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P. Alonso Gonzlez et al. Land Use Policy 66 (2017) 288292

led to the devalorization of grape prices and consequently of rural land, Table 1
with vine parcel owners willing to sell to developers (Costa-Font et al., Grape prices in Peneds and Priorat DOs between 2007 and 2013.
Source: Author from INCAVI data.
2009) (Fig. 1).
Due to the inability of the DO Peneds to ensure the protection of Year DO
vineyards, civic groups have resorted to heritage land use legislation.
Proposals are being made to include Peneds in UNESCO's World Priorat Peneds
Heritage (Pal and Tonts, 2005). Current regional and national heritage
2007 2,01 0,34
legislation in Spain, however, cannot prevent the transformation or 2008 2,05 0,35
destruction of old vineyards: it mostly aects buildings and tangible 2009 1,62 0,31
features considered part of the artistic and cultural legacy of society. 2010 1,60 0,30
Heritage legislation can, for instance, prevent the destruction of 2011 1,41 0,29
2012 1,31 0,35
terraces and the transformation of spatial morphologies, but cannot
2013 1,47 0,33
legislate on the kinds of proper parcels for vineyards, or on the age of
vines considered suitable for making top-quality wine. Thus, proposals
to make Peneds a World Heritage site could increase the added value or government processes to resolve increasingly complex social and
symbolic capital of the region, but without transforming intra-sectoral environmental issues (Cash, 2016, 546). However, we also need a
dynamics or socioeconomic processes. Indeed, the lack of a proper dierent planning theory to address and channel this complexity. One
relationship between wine and land through terroir in Peneds deva- that takes into account the logics of the agricultural and wine sectors,
lorizes vine owners, and thus public opinion turns to heritage spatial which, as the Barcelona case shows, might have the answer to problems
planning instruments: What was a productive landscape turns into a of urban sprawl. This raises the question of the relationship between
cultural, aesthetic and symbolic feature. As Cash asks, why is this so? zoning, terroir and wine.
The preservation of food heritage poses a complex challenge to the
denition of authenticity, especially in terms of wine: it needs to be
referred to a standard of quality and typicity to dierentiate it from 3. Discussion. The absent presence of terroir in Spain: why not
non-authentic wines. Large wine companies like those operating in zoning?
Peneds are not interested in zoning wine areas, so they can keep buying
cheap grapes, making and selling an undierentiated wine in terms of In Cash's piece, the discussion of how intra-sector dynamics aect
origin, lacking authenticity and terroir, and thus favoring the abandon- zoning is largely absent. In the case of mining impacts in the Niagara
ment of old, low-producing vines, and the planting of new vines in Escarpment, for instance, we are left with an outsider view based on
fertile lands. interviews that convey the opinions of environmental civic movements,
The wine region of Priorat is an opposite case to Peneds, as it has NGO's and critical actors addressing mining (Cash, 2016, 552). This
not only contained urban sprawl but triggered a process of re-ruraliza- section aims to show the implications of our proposal for a multiscalar
tion and vineyard planting unprecedented in Spain (Bov Sans, 2013). planning theory in terms of focusing on the various dimensions and
Priorat was a traditional wine region ravaged by the phylloxera plague sectors involved in planning, in this case the wine sector, its territorial
at the end of the nineteenth century. By 1975, most people left the area implications and the views of intra-sector actors. The case of Spain is
for cities and only 250 hectares of vines subsisted, winemaking limited relevant because it is an Old World wine producer with centuries of
to homemade production and selling to big cellars, some of them from winemaking tradition and the world's largest surface of planted vine.
Peneds (Bou et al., 2008). After the arrival of a group of wine Spain is the main exporter in terms of volume, and ranks third in overall
entrepreneurs, the 1980s witnessed Priorat's re-emergence. The number wine production after France and Italy. Why, then, setting Priorat aside,
of cellars grew, from none to 10 in 1990, 70 in 2006 and to 102 by is Spain the only Old World country without wine zoning policies?
2016. However, the absence of big wine corporations and an active Moreover, the UNESCO World Heritage list includes 16 wine-related
group of civic actors and winemakers led to rapid changes that would sites and landscapes, in Portugal, Hungary, Italy, France and Germany.
transform Priorat into a leading wine region. They managed to lobby Why not in Spain? The large amount of studies on wine in Spain from
the Regulatory Board of Priorat, which, contrary to the one in Peneds, dierent disciplines could sustain both heritagization and zoning
adopted a pro-terroir planning stance, transforming Priorat into the policies, but those have only timidly started to take place in historic
second Qualied Denomination of Origin in Spain in 2000, a marker of regions like Jerez/Sherry and Catalan DOs (Pardo-Calle et al., 2011).
quality and distinction, only after the historic region of Rioja. More- Lack of knowledge is not the issue. Maybe part of the answer is that
over, the Regulatory Board implemented an unprecedented process of Spain is the rst wine exporter in volume, but not in value: indeed,
land zoning in Spain according to wine and terroir categories at three Spain's average wine prices are the lowest in the world. Spain exports
levels: parcel wines, village wines, and DO wines. Then, in 2007, a bulk wines but not valuable, terroir wines (Figs. 2 and 3).
Priorat got the rst denomination as chateau wine in Spain, while the Valuable wines require quality grapes, and these result from
prestigious wine critic Robert Parker classied ve Priorat wines among combining ve main factors making up terroir: climate, geology and
the best of 2007. In contrast to Peneds, the price of grapes in Priorat is soil, topography and orientation, grape variety, and human wine-
the highest in Spain and the price of vine parcels is growing. The making decisions. Emphasizing the importance of terroir for wine-
historic depopulation of the area is being reverted, people are moving making goes beyond our scope here (Sommers, 2008). But terroir wine
to the area, but urban uses are marginal: rural uses and vines grow, requires not only identication of origin against potential fraud, but
preventing urban sprawl (Table 1). also zoning for its denition. This gave rise to the creation of
Why, then, not zone and produce terroir wines with added value and designations of origin and protected geographical indications (Macas
ensure the preservation of rural uses? Why, instead, resort to heritage Vzquez and Alonso Gonzlez, 2015). Wine DOs started in the 1930s in
policies when the solution might be in the wine sector itself? These Spain, and then expanded after the 1980s, transforming land uses in
questions point to the complexity of the phenomenon, which goes many rural areas and performing important functions, such as the
beyond any urbanrural dichotomy to a wider class conict, to increase of technical quality in wines and marketing techniques.
struggles and alliances between entrepreneurs in dierent sectors, Although the DO system allowed for the certication of the origin of
and demands by civic society facing economic decline (Martin-Rios wine in broad regions, it was not enough to ensure the production of
and Parga-Dans, 2016). Certainly, a new form of governance would be terroir wines. This can be illustrated with the following case from our
necessary in response to the inability of traditional forms of linear own research.

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P. Alonso Gonzlez et al. Land Use Policy 66 (2017) 288292

Between 2001 and 2010, the Galician coast was one the fastest
growing areas in terms of real estate transactions, with 800,000 new
homes built in a region of 2,750,000 inhabitants (see Fig. 4). Moreover,
urban sprawl in Galicia is characterized by a dispersed pattern that is
most harmful for natural areas and agricultural practices (Lpez
Gonzlez and Pieira-Mantin, 2014). In this context, the wine DO
Rias Baixas prevented the disappearance of vineyards facing the sprawl
of coastal urbanization and cities like Vigo and Pontevedra, increasing
grape, wine and rural land prices. However, the DO imposed albario as
the single identifying grape, getting rid of autochthonous grape
varieties and winemaking techniques. European Union subsidies in-
tensied vine agriculture seeking high yields under the pressure of a
volume-oriented wine sector that disregards quality. Traditional knowl-
edge on wine terroirs was lost, and average wine and grape prices, and
consequently rural land prices, have been decreasing since the 2000s
Fig. 2. Main wine producers in volume (millions of hectoliters). due to lack of dierentiation. As one of our interviewees puts it:
Source: Author from Observatorio Espaol del Vino (OEV) data.
One can make wine on a well-oriented slope, with low-yield and
high-quality grapes; but also below that slopeand close to the river,
where onions and tomatoes were planted before, with the highest
yields and grapes lacking any avor. It does not matter: it is all
mixed in large wine deposits, all sold with the DO label. (Wine
distributor, June 2016)
In the Galician impressive wine landscape of Ribeira Sacra, the
creation of a DO led to the abandonment of old vines and winegrowing
techniques: large companies make huge vine plantations in fertile soils
away from the scarped mountains. However, the scarped mountain
plantations alongside the Sil riverbanks were precisely the sign of
distinction of Ribeira Sacra, constituting its symbolic value and its
dierentiation as terroir. Now, as in Peneds, there are civic calls to
declare Ribeira Sacra a World Heritage Landscape. But, again, the
preservation of old vines is not in heritage preservation policies
(although these might increase the symbolic capital of the area), but
Fig. 3. Price per liter of main world producers (/l). in the wine zoning and in the valorization of terroir.
Source: Author from OEV data. Most interviewees arm that Galician Dos are the form of territorial
governance of large cooperatives and private companies that control
them, excluding small, terroir-oriented winemakers. The organization of

Fig. 4. Urban sprawl in the Galician coast (left) and borders of the protected designation of origin of the DO Rias Baixas (right).
Source: Lpez Gonzlez and Pieira-Mantin (2014, 43) and DO Rias Baixas Website: www.doriasbaixas.com.

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the productive eld has led to the emergence of powerful actors that are negotiating the complex dynamics of political economy, of which
interested in high-yield agriculture, exploiting fertile and undieren- legislation and spatial planning are just one more factor to consider.
tiated terroirs, in order to export large amounts of cheap, undieren- The tridimensional theory of power developed by Lukes (2009)
tiated wine. Why not, then, zoning Rias Baixas or Ribeira Sacra, and resonates strongly with various processes described here, such as the
Spanish wine regions for that matter? The reasons are apparent: wine lack of interest of big Spanish wine corporations in zoning wine areas
zoning would imply that most vine lands owned by cooperatives and based on terroir. Corporations deeply aect governance through two
large private companies would be categorized as low quality, and they key dimensions of power explored by Lukes, namely the second, based
would lose market shares with terroir winemakers. on a non-decision making power, and the third, which deploys
In recent times, our work has mapped a revolutionary process in the ideological mechanisms with signicant impacts for decision-makers.
Spanish wine sector whereby various prominent DOs such as Rioja or Lukes (2009) ideological dimension is key because, contrary to the
Cava are on the verge of collapse, and terroir winemakers, critics, Foucaltian relativism where all social actors, dominated and dominant
sommeliers and oenologists are demanding a sea change in wine alike, are subject to the same power relations and moral issues, there
policies. They are reunited under the Club Matador (Club and are people that acquiesce to domination. The consequences of ideology
Matador, 2015). Their main concern has to do with zoning: they for planning policy should not be underestimated (Sturzaker and
consider the DO system to be obsolete, and reclaim a thorough Shucksmith, 2011).
zonication of wine regions from the State. This involves establishing Thus, it might be worth moving forward from Cox's (1987)
a hierarchy of lands in terms of terroir, including geological and soil approach adopted by Cash, and think of planning theories for the
nature, and a demarcation by villages, parcels and subregions, follow- eective development of new strategies of spatial governance addres-
ing the Burgundy model applied in Priorat. Moreover, and this is key for sing the complex and changing social needs. A multiscalar planning
our theoretical purposes here, they underscore the necessarily multi- theory seems apt for this purpose, because, as Hillier underscores,
layered and qualitative character of wine zoning due to the complex- realities of urban and non-urban space are ever-changing, but the
ities of expressing terroir. Their view is close to Hillier's understanding folding together, unfolding and refolding of entities and lives cannot be
of spatial planning, based on broad trajectories or visions of the predicted. Nor can they be entirely managed by rules or regulations
longer-term future and shorter-term, location-specic detailed plans (2008, 24-25). This theory is, at least, adequate in shedding light and
and projects with collaboratively determined tangible goals (2008, moving forward in the zoning of wine terroir, in which reality must
33). forcefully go hand in hand with theory.
For them, it would be nave to believe that good governance and
political will, as Cash puts it, would be enough. Zoning alone does not References
produce quality grapes: the organization of production must be recast
so that land and wine become dierentiated in the long run. In other Alonso Gonzlez, P., Macas Vzquez, A.M., 2014. Between planning and heritage:
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