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Wave Theories
Mathematical relationships
to describe:
(1) the wave form,
(2) the water motion
(throughout the fluid
column) and pressure in
waves, and
(3) how (1) & (2) change
with shoaling.
1
Linear (Airy) Wave Theory
2
Dispersion Equation:
Convert to a general expression for Wave Celerity
3
So the celerity illustrated is
General Expression:
Airy Wave Celerity: General Expression, Deep & Shallow Approximations
45 nt e
end
dep
40 d epth
only
S,
SW
35
30
Celerity (m/s)
10
0 Shallow-water expression:
0 50 100 150 200
Depth (m)
In Shallow Water
wave speed C = (gh)1/2
Deep Ocean Tsunami
C = (10m/s2*4000 m)1/2 ~200 m/s
~450 mph!
(Alaska to Hawaii in 4.7 hours)
4
Example 2 of Shallow Water Wave Speed
Tow-In Surfing
5
Compilation of Airy Equations
6
Orbital Motion of Water Particles
H=2m, T=10s, h=4000m
0.8
Horizontal
0.6 Vertical
Tangential
0.4
0.2
velocity (m/s)
0 A B CD
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
0 10 20 30 40 50 60
Where is the wave crest? The trough? time (sec)
7
Orbital Motion at the Bed in Shallow Water
Total Energy =
z
E = E p + Ek
1 L 1 1
= 0 h gzdzdx + 0L h ( u 2 + w 2 ) dzdx
L L 2
1 1
= gH 2 + gH 2
16 16
1
= gH 2
8
8
Wave Energy Flux
[dimensions] = M L L2 L
L3 T2 T
1 T
P= 0 h [p(x,z,t)] udzdt
[units] = joules/sec/m T
= Watts/m 1 1# 2kh &
= gH 2c %1+ (
Deep Water n=1/2 8 2 $ sinh(2kh) '
Shallow Water n=1 = Ecn
Wave Groups
In deep water, the first wave in a group decreases in height until it disappears and the
second wave now becomes the leading wave (Figure).
A new wave develops behind the last wave, thus maintaining the number of waves.
9
Individual Waves and Wave Group Velocity
Deep Water:
2 = gk
The effect of the dispersion process is that,
cg = /k = g/2 = 1/2 c
in deep water, the group of waves travels
(use implicit differentiation) at a speed equal to the speed of the
individual waves in the group.*
Shallow Water:
This is important in forecasting wave
2 = ghk2
propagation and in particular the travel
cg = /k = (gh)1/2 = c
time of waves generated by a distant storm
(use implicit differentiation) (hint for a problem on Assignment 3).
Shoreward-directed
horizontal velocity becomes
higher under the wave crest
than the offshore-directed
velocity under the trough. Waves steepen and relative depth decreases, so that
these waves are no longer considered small-
amplitude. Instead they are called finite-amplitude.
10
Orbital Motion in Finite-Amplitude Wave Theory
Due to the asymmetry of the wave form, orbital paths are not closed.
11
Limits of Application
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