Rough Guides Directions Barcelona (2005) PDF

DIRECTIONS
Barcelona
Up-to-date DIRECTIONS
Inspired IDEAS
User-friendly MAPS
ACCURATE RELIABLE INFORMATIVE

Barcelona
DIRECTIONS
WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Jules Brown
NEW YORK LONDON DELHI

www.roughguides.com
2
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Contents
CONTENTS
Sagrada Famlia and Glries ....................133
Introduction 4 Esquerra de lEixample....................................140
Grcia and Parc Gell ......................................146
Camp Nou, Pedralbes and Sarri-Sant
Ideas 9 Gervasi ................................................................................152
Tibidabo and Parc del Collserola ........160
The big six ..........................................................................10 Montserrat ......................................................................164
Childrens Barcelona ..............................................12 Sitges ....................................................................................168
Stay in style ......................................................................14
On the move ....................................................................16
Festive Barcelona ......................................................18 Accommodation 173
Shops and markets..................................................20
Parks and gardens....................................................22
The modernista trail ..............................................24
Sports and recreation ..........................................26 Essentials 185
Historic Barcelona ....................................................28 Arrival....................................................................................187
Cafs ........................................................................................30 Information ....................................................................187
Specialist museums................................................32 City transport and tours..................................189
On the waterfront ......................................................34 Festivals and events ..........................................191
Out for lunch ....................................................................36 Directory ............................................................................192
Galleries and artists ................................................38
Traditional food and drink ................................40
Music, dance and theatre ................................42
Language 195
Out on the town ..........................................................44
City landscapes ............................................................46
Index 201
Places 49
Along the Ramblas ..................................................51
Barri Gtic ..........................................................................59 Colour Maps
Port Vell and Barceloneta ................................73
El Raval ..................................................................................81 Barcelona
La Ribera and Sant Pere ..................................91 Old Town
Parc de la Ciutadella ..........................................102 Barcelona Transport
Montjuc ............................................................................106
Port Olmpic and Poble Nou ......................117
Dreta de lEixample ............................................122 Useful Stuff
4
Introduction to
Barcelona
INTRODUCTION
Its tempting to say that theres nowhere quite like

Barcelona theres certainly not another city in Spain to
touch it for sheer style, looks or energy. The glossy
mags and travel press dwell enthusiastically on its out-
rageous architecture, designer shopping, hip bars and
vibrant cultural scene, but Barcelona is more than just
this years fad. Its a confident, progressive city, one that
is tirelessly self-renewing while preserving all thats best
about its past.
The province of Catalunya
Palau
(Catalonia in English), of
which Barcelona is the
Gell
capital, has a historical

identity going back as far
as the ninth century, and
through the long period of
domination by outside
powers, as well as during
the Franco dictatorship, it
proved impossible to stifle
the Catalan spirit.The city
reflects this independence,
being at the forefront of
Spanish political activism,
radical design and archi-
tecture, and commercial
dynamism.
When to visit
The best times to go to Barcelona are late spring and early autumn, when
the weather is still comfortably warm, around 2125C, and walking the
streets isnt a chore. In summer, the city can be unbearably hot and humid
with temperatures averaging 28C (but often a lot more). August sees the cli-
mate at its most unwelcoming, while many shops, bars and restaurants
close as local inhabitants head out of the city in droves. Its worth consider-
ing a winter break, as long as you dont mind the prospect of occasional
rain. Its generally still warm enough to sit out at a caf, even in December
when the temperature hovers around 13C.
Contents Introduction
5
Rambla
de Raval
INTRODUCTION
This is seen most perfectly in the glorious modernista (Art

Nouveau) buildings that stud the citys streets and avenues. Antoni
Gaud is the most famous of those who have left their mark on
Barcelona in this way: his Sagrada Famlia church is rightly
revered, but just as fascinating are the (literally) fantastic houses,
apartment buildings and parks that he and his contemporaries
designed.
The city also boasts a medieval old town full of pivotal
buildings from an earlier age of expansion and a stupendous
artistic legacy, from national (ie, Catalan) collections of
Romanesque, Gothic and contemporary art to major galleries
containing the lifes work of the Catalan artists Joan Mir and
Antoni Tpies (not to mention a celebrated showcase of the work
of Pablo Picasso).
Barcelona is a surprisingly easy place to find your way around,
with the greater city, in effect, a series of self-contained
neighbourhoods stretching out from the harbour, flanked by a
brace of parks and girdled by the wooded Collserola mountains.
6
Plaa
del Pi
INTRODUCTION
You could see most of the major sights in a long weekend, though
it pays to get off the beaten track when you can. Designer
boutiques in gentrified old-town quarters, street opera singers
belting out an aria, bargain lunches in workers taverns,
neighbourhood funicular rides,
Hanging
unmarked gourmet restaurants, craft
outlets and workshops, restored
medieval palaces, suburban walks
hams
and specialist galleries all are just

as much Barcelona as the Ramblas
or Gauds Sagrada Famlia.
Barcelona
INTRODUCTION
AT A GLANCE
THE RAMBLAS

La Ribera
One of the citys most famous
sights, the kilometre-long tree-lined
avenue, filled with pedestrians,
pavement cafs and performance
artists, is the hub of any visit.
BARRI GTIC
The Gothic Quarter is the
medieval nucleus of the city a
labyrinth of twisting streets and
historic buildings, including La
Seu (the cathedral) and the
palaces and museums around
Plaa del Rei.
EL RAVAL
Barri Gtic
Still on the cusp between edgi-

ness and artiness, this western
old-town neighbourhood contains
both the flagship museum of con-
temporary art and the pick of the
latest designer shops, bars and
restaurants.
PORT VELL
The spruced-up Old Port harbour
area features high-profile visitor
attractions like the aquarium and
Maremgnum retail-and-leisure
centre.

Port Vell
LA RIBERA
The easternmost old-town neigh-
bourhood, home to the Picasso
museum, is also a fashionable
boutique-and-bar destination.
8
EIXAMPLE
The gridded nineteenth-century
uptown district contains some of
Europes most extraordinary archi-
INTRODUCTION
tecture including Gauds

Sagrada Famlia.
Barceloneta
BARCELONETA
The former fishing quarter beyond
Port Vell boasts the citys most
concentrated batch of seafood
restaurants, and marks the start of
a series of beaches running up
past the Port Olmpic.

Castel de Montjuc
Casa Batll, Eixample
GRCIA
The nicest of the suburbs on the
northern edge of the city centre is
a noted nightlife destination, with
some offbeat bars, independent
cinemas and great restaurants
contained within its charming
streets and squares.
MONTJUC
Barcelonas best art museums
and gardens, and the main
Olympic stadium, are sited on the
fortress-topped hill to the south-
west of the centre.
Ideas
Contents Ideas
10
The big six Gauds greatest
Sagrada Famlia
fantasies to If theres a more famous unfinished church
in the world, Barcelona would like to know
Picassos earliest
about it the temple dedicated to the
works, Gothic tow- Sacred Family is the essential pilgrimage
for Gaud fans.
ers to Romanesque
P.133 SAGRADA FAMLIA AND
frescoes, ceramic GLRIES
dragons to human
statues
Barcelonas must-
see attractions
glory in their extraordinary
diversity. All are easily
experienced in a long
weekend, and with no
charge to see three of
them theres no excuse for
missing out on the citys
weird and wonderful high-
lights.
Museu Picasso
Trace the genesis of the artists genius in
the city that Picasso liked to call home.
P.93 LA RIBERA AND SANT
PERE
Contents Ideas
11
Parc Gell
Gauds most playful instincts assert them-
selves in Barcelonas unrivalled public park,
where contorted stone pavilions, ginger-
bread buildings and surreal ceramics com-
bine unforgettably.
P.147 GRCIA AND PARC GELL
The Ramblas
The citys iconic central thoroughfare is the
setting for one of Europes greatest free
shows, as buskers, stall-holders, hawkers,
eccentrics, locals and tourists collide to
gleeful effect.
P.51 ALONG THE RAMBLAS
La Seu
The citys majestic Gothic cathedral anchors
the old town, with visits concentrating on
the lush palm-filled cloister and marvellous
roof terrace.
P.59 BARRI GTIC
Museu Nacional dArt de

Catalunya (MNAC)
The National Museum of Art celebrates the
grandeur of Romanesque and Gothic art,
two periods in which Catalunyas artists
were pre-eminent in Spain.
P.109 MONTJUC
Contents Ideas
12
Theres plenty for
Childrens Barcelona
children to do,
much of it free (for
under 4s) or inex-
pensive (for under
12s). The main
problem is trans-
port, as most
metro stations
(except on line 2)
have stairs or esca-
lators adults often
face a stiff climb
with the pushchair.
Disposable Plaa de Vicen Martorell
nappies, baby food While children play in the traffic-free
squares playground, parents can rest up at
and formula milk are wide- the excellent caf.
ly available in pharmacies P.83 EL RAVAL
and supermarkets, though

baby-changing areas are
rare, except in department
stores and shopping cen-
tres.
LAqurium
Come face to face with sharks and other
sea creatures in Port Vells highest profile
(and highest-priced) all-weather family
attraction.
P.75 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Contents Ideas
13
Parc dAtraccions
On the heights of Tibidabo, overlooking the
city, this terrific amusement park mixes old-
fashioned rides with high-tech experiences.
P.160 TIBIDABO AND PARC
DEL COLLSEROLA
Parc Zoolgic
Dolphins to big cats, Barcelonas zoo packs
the worlds fauna into the rolling grounds of
the citys nicest park.
P.104 PARC DE LA
CIUTADELLA
Font Mgica
The lights and music cut in on cue several
nights a week at Montjucs longstanding
sound-and-light show one for all the
family.
P.106 MONTJUC
Poble Espanyol
See Spain in a day in the Spanish Village,
an outdoor museum of reconstructed build-
ings, artisans workshops and cafs that
makes a great family day out.
P.108 MONTJUC
Contents Ideas
14
Stay in style As befits Spains Neri
style and design This dramatic renovation of an old town
palace makes a stylish base in the Barri
capital, Barcelona Gtic.
has a wide array of P.179 ACCOMMODATION
chic hotels to suit

the most fashion-
able visitor. Rooms
in the citys most
elegant hotels start
at about e250 a
night, and its
essential to book well in
advance as Barcelona
doesnt really have an off-
season though prices do
come down sometimes in
August or at weekends,
even in the top-rated
establishments.
Contents Ideas
15
Arts Barcelona
A beachfront beauty with the designer
touch, five-star comforts and a terrific pool
this is widely considered to be
Barcelonas top hotel.
P.181 ACCOMMODATION
Prestige
Minimalism rules in the hotel of choice for
the music and fashion world.
P.183 ACCOMMODATION
Grand Marina
Claris Contemporary Catalan artists have person-
Rooftop pool, beautiful rooms, and talked- alised this luxury waterfront hotel in Port
about restaurant and bar, right in the heart Vell.
of the modern city. P.179 ACCOMMODATION
P.181 ACCOMMODATION
Contents Ideas
16
On the move Most of
Barcelonas old-
town areas are only
accessible on foot,
but for outlying
sights you can let
public transport
take the strain. In
fact, just reaching
Montjuc and
Montserrat is more
than half the fun, as you
have to rely on cable cars
and funicular railways to
climb the steep gradients.
Trasbordador Aeri
Reaching Tibidabo is even The cross-harbour cable car is an iconic
more of an adventure, with Barcelona ride, but wait for a clear day for
the best views.
train, tram and funicular all P.78 PORT VELL AND
required before getting to BARCELONETA
the top.
Las Golondrinas
To appreciate Barcelona the maritime city,
jump on one of the daily sightseeing boats
that depart from near the Columbus monu-
ment.
P.190 ESSENTIALS
Contents Ideas
17
Tramvia Blau
Its worth trying to coincide with the antique
tram service that forms part of the
approach to Tibidabo.
DEL COLLSEROLA
Telefric de Montjuc
This is the speediest way to the castle ram-
parts, and the little gondolas offer some of
the best views of the city.
P.113 MONTJUC
Sightseeing tour buses

Barcelonas tour buses loop around the city
stopping at every major sight and attraction
the ticket lets you jump on and off when
you like.
P.190 ESSENTIALS
Cremellera de Montserrat
The towering heights of Montserrat, an hour
from Barcelona, can be reached by rack
railway as well as by cable car a dramatic
ride in any weather.
P.164 MONTSERRAT
Contents Ideas
18
Traditionally, each
Festive Barcelona Dia de Sant Jordi
neighbourhood cel- April 23 is St Georges Day, dedicated to
Catalunyas patron saint, though its not so
ebrates with its own
much dragon-slaying as book- and rose-
festival, though the buying that occupies the local population.
major ones like P.65 BARRI GTIC
Grcias Festa Major

(August) and the
Merc (September)
have become city
institutions. There is
always a parade
(often with
grotesque giant fig-
ures with papier-
mach heads) with
music and dancing, while Festival del Grec
traditional Catalan celebra- The summers foremost arts and music fes-
tival centres its performances on Montjucs
tions are characterized by open-air Greek theatre.
the correfoc (fire-running), P.110 MONTJUC
where drummers, dragons

and devils cavort in the
streets, and by the
castellers, the red-shirted
human tower-builders.
Contents Ideas
19
Festa de la Merc
The citys biggest annual festival is dedicat-
ed to merrymaking and mayhem on a lavish
scale.
P.191 ESSENTIALS
Snar
The electronic music and multimedia art
world parties hard every June as Barcelona
turns techno.
P.191 ESSENTIALS
Fira de Santa Llcia

The first three weeks in December is devot-
ed to the annual Christmas fair, held in front
of La Seu.
P.191 ESSENTIALS
Festa Major de Grcia

Competing teams of human tower-builders
draw crowds at every traditional festival, pil-
ing person upon person in old-town squares
in the Barri Gtic and Grcia the latters
Festa Major in August is always a hoot
P.191 ESSENTIALS
Contents Ideas
20
Shops and markets Barcelona is great
for shopping, espe-
cially for designer
clothes, handcraft-
ed accessories or
stylish household
items. The sharpest
designers congre-
gate in the
Eixample and La
Ribera; the sec-
ondhand/
vintage and inde-
pendent music Mercat de la Boqueria
The citys finest food market is a show in
scene focuses on its own right, busy with locals and tourists
El Raval, while its from dawn to dusk.
the Barri Gtic for antiques
and gifts. Opening hours
are Monday to Saturday
10am to 1.30/2pm, 4.30
to 7.30/8pm, though
department stores and
malls open until 10pm,
while smaller shops vary
their hours considerably.
Vinon
This renowned uptown furniture and design
store is a mainstay of the Barcelona shop-
ping scene.
P.127 DRETA DE LEIXAMPLE
Contents Ideas
21
Traditional ceramics
Catalan and Spanish ceramics make a good
gift or souvenir Art Escudellers always
has an excellent selection.
P.67 BARRI GTIC
Designer fashion
Some of the hottest European designers call
Barcelona home check out the hip bou-
tiques and funky shoe shops in La Ribera.
PERE
Els Encants
Haggle hard and pick up a bargain at the
citys biggest flea market, held every
Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday.
GLRIES
Book and coin market

Join the crowds on Sunday morning at the
Mercat de Sant Antoni, good fun whether
youre browsing or buying.
P.85 EL RAVAL
Contents Ideas
22
Parks and gardens Its not hard to find
Parc Gell
a bit of traffic-free The citys most extraordinary park, fes-
tooned with ceramic decoration, is the
space in Barcelona,
product of architect Antoni Gauds surreal
from a quiet neigh- flight of fancy.
bourhood corner to P.147 GRCIA AND PARC

GELL
a formal park.
Some places, like
Parc Gell and
Parc de la
Ciutadella, will be
high on any visiting
list, but to escape
the crowds try hik-
ing in the Collserola
hills, just a fifteen-
minute train ride
Parc del Collserola
away. Nearly all outdoor
On the hottest of days a welcome breeze
spaces have a kiosk-caf, and pine-shaded springs reward hikers in
the wooded hills above Barcelona.
and many have a chil-
drens play area. DEL COLLSEROLA
Contents Ideas
23
Parc Joan Mir
An urban park whose concrete piazza and
towering Mir sculpture are tempered by a
shaded garden with childrens playground.
P.142 ESQUERRA DE
LEIXAMPLE
Parc de la Ciutadella
The park at the eastern edge of the old
town is packed full of surprises, from palm-
house caf to zoological museum.
P.102 PARC DE LA
CIUTADELLA
Jardins de Mossn Costa
i Llobera
The huge cactus stands on the slopes of
Montjuc are a local secret, best enjoyed as
the days shadows lengthen.
P.113 MONTJUC
Jard Botnic de Barcelona

Roam the various zones of Barcelonas
botanical garden, or join a guided tour for a
more in-depth exploration.
P.114 MONTJUC
Contents Ideas
24
Barcelonas presid-
The modernista trail
ing architectural
genius, Antoni
Gaud i Cornet,
changed the way
people looked at
urban architecture
and, with his mod-
ernista contempo-
raries notably
Josep Puig i
Cadafalch and Llus
Domnech i
Montaner also
changed the way
Barcelona looked.
Their style, a sort of
Catalan Art Nouveau,
erupted in the 1870s and
1880s, and following the
modernista trail around the
city shows you some of
Europes most extraordi-
nary buildings.
La Pedrera
The stone quarry is the most eye-catching
apartment building in the city, a sinuous
structure with a fantasy roof terrace that
hosts summer cocktail evenings.
Contents Ideas
25
Hotel Espaa
Some of the greatest modernista names
came together to decorate this solid old
nineteenth-century hotel, which has a par-
ticularly splendid dining room.
P.84 EL RAVAL
Hospital de la Santa Creu

i de Sant Pau
Weekend tours show visitors the ornate
buildings and pavilions of the citys most
innovative public hospital.
GLRIES
Casa Amatller
Headquarters of the Centre del Modernisme,
and the best place to find out more about
Barcelonas peculiar architecture.
Casa Batll
Gauds Casa Batll anchors the famous
Mansana de la Discrdia, or Block of
Discord, a trio of elaborate mansions built
for the citys nineteenth-century industrial-
ists.
Contents Ideas
26
A spin-off from the
Sports and recreation Camp Nou
1992 Olympics The citys premier team, FC Barcelona,
plays in one of Europes most magnificent
was an increased
stadia if you cant get a ticket, the big
provision of sports games always on TV.
and leisure facilities P.152 CAMP NOU, PEDRALBES

AND SARRI-SANT GERVASI
throughout
Barcelona. The city
beaches and swim-
ming pools draw
big summer
crowds, while you
can rent anything
from roller blades
to mountain bikes
to explore the back
streets and prome-
nades. However,
ask a Catalan to
recommend a spectator
sport and there will be only
Watersports
one answer football, as Its easy to rent all the equipment you need
for a surf or sail from the Port Olmpic.
practised by the local
P.117 PORT OLMPIC AND
heroes of FC Barcelona. POBLE NOU
Contents Ideas
27
Estadi Olmpic
The Olympic Stadium, remodelled for the
1992 Games, is at the heart of an Olympic
area that includes world-class swimming
and sports facilities.
P.111 MONTJUC
Rent a bike
With more than 100km of cycle paths, plus
beach promenades and forest trails, renting
a bike offers a different way to see the city.
P.192 ESSENTIALS
City beaches
When the gallery-going, shopping and bar-
hopping flags, spend the day at the beach
Barcelona has five kilometres of sand-
fringed ocean.
POBLE NOU
Passeig Martim
Early mornings and weekends are the best
times to work out on the harbourside prom-
enade between Barceloneta and the Port
Olmpic.
P.77 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Contents Ideas
28
Any walk around
Historic Barcelona
the old town
provides reminders
of Barcelonas long
history, with a
street layout and
surviving walls that
go back to Roman
times. But its the
fourteenth- and
fifteenth-century
Golden Age that
lent the city its
Catalan-Gothic Esglsia de Sant Pau del
lustre, when newly Camp
The citys oldest church, dating from the
built churches, city hall,
tenth century, provides a peaceful retreat in
government palace and the modern Raval.
shipyards all testified to P.85 EL RAVAL
Barcelonas influence.
Later, the eighteenth-
century Bourbons
reshaped the city again,
building fortresses to
subdue the unruly
inhabitants.
Plaa del Rei

The Renaissance tower and Gothic buildings
of Plaa del Rei form one of the most har-
monious ensembles in the old town.
P.62 BARRI GTIC
Contents Ideas
29
Monestir de Pedralbes
Half an hour from the centre lies the
Pedralbes monastery, boasting not only the
citys most harmonious cloister but also a
world-class art collection.
P.156 CAMP NOU, PEDRALBES
Esglsia de Santa Mara

del Mar
Santa Mara was built in the roaring 1320s,
with economic confidence at its height,
making it the crowning glory of the Catalan-
Gothic style of architecture.
Museu Martim PERE
The engaging Maritime Museum is housed

in the great medieval shipyards that under-
pinned Barcelonas early prosperity.
P.74 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Castell de Montjuc
The hilltop Bourbon fortress offers an
eagles-eye view of the city.
P.113 MONTJUC
Contents Ideas
30
Cafs There are thou-
Zurich
sands of cafs, Meet me at the Zurich is an age-old
Barcelona refrain.
ranging from centu-
ry-old coffee hous-
es to unique neigh-
bourhood haunts.
Specialist places include a
forn (bakery), patisseria
(pastry shop) and xocola-
teria (specializes in choco-
late), while a granja is
more of a milk bar than a
regular caf, offering tradi-
tional delights like orxata
(tiger-nut drink) and granis-
sat (flavoured crushed ice).
A caf breakfast is typically
a flauta (thin baguette
sandwich), ensaimada
(pastry spiral) or croissant.
Caf de lOpera
House caf for the opera house opposite,
this is the most traditional of the citys
watering holes.
Contents Ideas
31
Laie Llibreria Caf
Stop for breakfast, lunch or a read of the
papers at Barcelonas best bookshop caf.
Meson del Caf

As quirky as its small, the House of
Coffee serves the cup that revives.
P.68 BARRI GTIC
Forn de Sant Jaume

Thi place serves some delectable cakes and
pastries, to eat in or take away.
Textil Caf
A relaxing museum caf thats known for its
good food.
PERE
Contents Ideas
32
Specialist museums A selection of spe-
cialist collections
adds to the citys
extraordinary diver-
sity. There are dedi-
cated museums to
the history of
chocolate and the
world of textiles,
while other collec-
tions zero in local
matters like
Barcelonas football Museu de la Xocolata
team or the Handcrafted chocolates, made on the prem-
ises, are the twist at this informative muse-
nuances of Catalan um.
history. Only the P.93 LA RIBERA AND SANT
PERE
unclassifiable
Museu Frederic Mars is
essential viewing, but visit
one or two others to
unpeel a layer of the city
you might otherwise have
missed.
Museu del Futbol

No football fan will want to miss a visit to
the FC Barcelona museum, presenting a
wealth of trophies, photographs, videos and
memorabilia.
Contents Ideas
33
Museu Frederic Mars
The mad collector to beat them all dont
miss Mars extraordinary range of folkloric
items, household utensils, toys and
ephemera, contained within a lovely old-
town palace with celebrated summer caf.
P.63 BARRI GTIC
Museu Textil i
dIndumentaria
Textiles and clothing from Roman times to
the present day illuminate one of the citys
best-presented museums.
Museu de Cermica P.94 LA RIBERA AND SANT
The citys most comprehensive collection of PERE
ceramics is housed in one wing of a former
royal palace.
Museu dHistria de
Catalunya
An engaging presentation of all things
Catalan, from the history of the national flag
to Barcelona at war.
P.76 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Contents Ideas
34
On the waterfront Dramatic changes
Mirador de Coln
over the last two Take the elevator up to the viewing platform
of the Christopher Columbus monument to
decades have once
survey the ever-developing waterfront.
again placed P.73 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
harbour and
Mediterranean at
the heart of
Barcelona. The old
docksides have
been opened up as
promenades and
entertainment
areas, and the
citys once grimy
beaches landscaped and
prettified its as if a
theatre curtain has been
lifted to reveal that, all
along, Barcelona had an
Port Vell
urban waterfront of which
The Old Port area at the foot of the
it could be proud. Ramblas has seen its former warehouses
and cargo wharves transformed into a
vibrant entertainment zone.
P.73 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Contents Ideas
35
Barcelonetas restaurants
The Passeig de Joan Borb promenade, in
the old fishing quarter of Barceloneta, is the
perfect place for a paella or seafood meal.
P.78 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Luz de Gas
The floating bar (open summer only) is the
best vantage-point for the comings and
goings on the Port Vell promenade.
P.80 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Santa Eullia
Step back to the days of sail with a tour of
this historic schooner.
P.74 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Port Olmpic
The twin towers and packed marina domi-
nate the Port Olmpic, whose restaurants
and bars make it the citys liveliest resort
area.
POBLE NOU
Contents Ideas
36
Out for lunch Restaurants gener-
ally offer a
lunchtime men del
dia (menu of the
day), starting at
about e7, rising to
e10/12 in fancier
places or at week-
ends. Its a real
bargain, as dinner
in the same restau-
rant might cost
three times as much.
Budget places often dont
have a written menu, with
the waiter simply reeling
off the days dishes. Lunch
hours are 14pm, though
locals dont eat until 2pm
or later.
Caf de lAcadmia
Many visitors favourite old-town restaurant
has a lovely terrace and offers up a set-
price lunch that mixes contemporary and
traditional Catalan flavours.
P.69 BARRI GTIC
Contents Ideas
37
Agua
This is the best place on the boardwalk for
a beachside lunch full of Mediterranean
flavours.
POBLE NOU
LEconmic
Diners cram into this traditionally tiled
Glop lunch-only restaurant for excellent bargain
A bustling Grcia tavern is the favoured meals, served Monday to Friday.
venue for a family lunch, especially at P.99 LA RIBERA AND SANT
weekends when every table is occupied. PERE
P.149 GRCIA AND PARC
GELL
Silenus
A fashionable place in the arty upper Raval
for cutting-edge Barcelona cuisine.
P.89 EL RAVAL
Contents Ideas
38
Barcelona has the
Galleries and artists Caixa Forum
worlds finest col- Theres always a show worth seeing in the
citys premier arts and cultural centre not
lections of work by to mention concerts, films, poetry readings
Catalan artists and other events.
P.107 MONTJUC
Joan Mir and
Antoni Tpies,
while contemporary
art of all kinds
anchors the dis-
plays at MACBA
and Caixa Forum.
The Articket (e15)
gives half-price
admission into all
(plus others) except
Caixa Forum, entry
to which is free.
The city also has dozens
of private galleries, con-
centrated in La Ribera, El
Raval and the Eixample
check Gua del Ocios
Arte section for listings.
Contents Ideas
39
Col.lecci Thyssen-
Bornemisza
A select gathering of fourteenth- to eigh-
teenth-century European art occupies a
hushed wing of the Pedralbes monastery.
Fundaco Antoni Tpies

Acquaint yourself with the work of the mas-
ter Catalan abstract artist, contained within
a striking Eixample mansion.
Museu dArt Contemporani

de Barcelona (MACBA)
Post-war contemporary art (Spanish,
Catalan and international) has a home in El
Ravals signature building.
P.81 EL RAVAL
Fundaco Joan Mir

Theres no more beautiful gallery in the city
than the house on the hill presenting the
lifes work of Joan Mir.
P.112 MONTJUC
Contents Ideas
40
Traditional Catalan
Traditional food and drink
food doesnt stray
far from its rural
and maritime roots
think bread
rubbed with toma-
to, oil and garlic,
chargrilled meats
and vegetables,
fish stews, salt
cod, sausage with
haricot beans, or
mixed rice dishes.
Even the most Bread with tomato (pa
fashionable restau- amb tomquet)
Often topped with cured ham, sliced cheese
rants present a few or grilled vegetables try it for breakfast or
as an appetizer in a local restaurant like Els
homestyle
Tres Tombs.
favourites for local P.89 EL RAVAL
diners brought up
on earthy flavours
and large portions.
However, sophistication
comes in the shape of a
glass of cava, Catalan
champagne.
From the grill

Food cooked on the chargrill (a la brasa) is
a staple at Taverna La Tomaquera not just
meats, but also seasonal artichokes and
huge spring onions.
P.115 MONTJUC
Contents Ideas
41
A glass of fizz
Order the house cava at Xampanayet to
accompany sliced meats and cheeses or a
dish of the local anchovies.
PERE
Orxata
A traditional caf like El Tio Che is the
best place to sample the unique milky bev-
erage made from ground tiger nuts.
POBLE NOU
Grilled sausage (botifarra)

Bar Salvador can usually oblige with a
bumper serving of pork sausage served on
a pool of stewed haricot beans (mongetes).
PERE
Noodles (fideu)
The local alternative to paella is noodles
served with seafood and a fiery garlic may-
onnaise restaurants in Barceloneta all
have their own version.
P.78 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Contents Ideas
42
Music, dance and theatre You can catch con-
Palau de la Msica
certs, plays and Catalana
Concerts at this extravagant modernista-
performances at a
designed concert hall are a treat, while the
wide variety of ven- popular daily guided tours are an added
attraction.
ues, and interna-
tionally renowned PERE
artists often appear

in the city particu-
larly during the sum-
mer-long Grec festi-
val or at the annual
festivals devoted to
ancient music (May),
contemporary
music (Oct/Nov)
and jazz (Nov/Dec).
City-sponsored pro-
ductions are adver-
tised at the Palau
de la Virreina on the Gran Teatre del Liceu
The renowned Liceu is a city landmark, but
Ramblas (wwww.bcn.es/
book ahead if you want tickets, either for a
cultura), and you can buy night at the opera or the late-night recitals.
advance concert, theatre P.55 ALONG THE RAMBLAS
and show tickets from

ServiCaixa (wwww
.servicaixa.com) or
TelEntrada (wwww
.telentrada.com).
Contents Ideas
43
Sidecar
This rootsy Plaa Reial rock club presents a
varied roster of low-priced gigs and club
nights.
P.72 BARRI GTIC
Teatre Nacional de
Catalunya
The National Theatre a remarkable mod-
ern take on a Greek temple has a mission
to promote Catalan-language productions.
GLRIES
LAuditori
Barcelonas finest concert hall has a year-
round programme of classical and contem-
porary music.
GLRIES
Tarantos
A longstanding favourite for flamenco, jazz,
funk and jam sessions the after-show
dancing keeps on into the small hours.
P.72 BARRI GTIC
Contents Ideas
44
Out on the town When it comes to a
days lazing around
or a nights carous-
ing, Barcelona
offers style, tradi-
tion and kitsch in
equal measures.
From tapas-tasting
to view-gazing,
laidback caf-bar
to full-on techno
temple, bohemian
boozer to cocktail Rosal
emporium youll Dont miss a bar crawl in the hip old-town
area of the Born Rosal is a favoured drop-
find it somewhere. For the in spot for planning the nights entertain-
ment, though some dont leave until closing
latest listings buy the
time.
weekly Guia del Ocio (out P.97 LA RIBERA AND SANT
every Thursday), which PERE
covers bars, venues and

opening hours in its Tarde
Noche section.
Fira
Only in Barcelona fairground rides, pop-
corn and champagne in one of the citys
most unique uptown bars.
P.144 ESQUERRA DE
LEIXAMPLE
Contents Ideas
45
Mirablau
The city does great views and great bars
Mirablau combines both to stunning effect.
DEL COLLSEROLA
Quimet i Quimet
Theres a touch of class and seriously
good tapas at this in-the-know bar on the
old town fringes. Bar Ra
P.115 MONTJUC El Raval has a score or more of quirky
drinking haunts, none funkier or more
colourful than Bar Ra.
P.89 EL RAVAL
Bosc de la Fades
Theres kitsch, and then theres the Forest
of the Fairies, the rustic grotto-bar at the
foot of the Ramblas.
Contents Ideas
46
City landmarks By any standards
The Frank Gehry fish
Barcelona has its Showpiece landmark of the Port Olmpic is
the enormous glittering fish that straddles
fair share of iconic
the promenade.
locations and P.117 PORT OLMPIC AND
POBLE NOU
buildings, from the
Ramblas to the
Sagrada Famlia.
Buildings
associated with the
International
Exhibitions of 1888
and 1929, plus
construction for the
1992 Olympics and 2004
Universal Forum, have
Torre de Collserola
helped to provide an Norman Fosters communications tower is
extraordinary city easily visible on the Barcelona skyline, and
is just a short walk from the Tibidabo
backdrop. Meanwhile, amusement park.
contemporary architects P.161 TIBIDABO AND PARC
DEL COLLSEROLA
have added towers,
installations, squares and
parks some
controversial, others
much-loved landmarks
that bolster the citys
reputation as an evolving
urban experiment.
Contents Ideas
47
Arc de Triomf
Barcelonas triumphant arch, relic of the
1888 Universal Exhibition, provides the
gateway to the Parc de la Ciutadella area.
P.102 PARC DE LA
CIUTADELLA
Plaa de Catalunya
The whole city comes and goes through this
pivotal square, where just-off-the-metro
tourists mingle with office-workers,
buskers, shoppers and caf patrons.
Clocktower, Plaa Rius i

Taulet
Lunch or a drink under Grcias landmark
clocktower is always a pleasure.
P.147 GRCIA AND PARC
GELL
Maremgnum
No visit to Port Vell is complete without a
stroll along the boardwalk to the harbourside
entertainment zone and shopping complex.
P.75 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Contents Ideas
Contents Ideas
Places
Contents Places
Contents Places
51
Along the Ramblas

No day in the city seems complete without a stroll along
the Ramblas, Spains most famous thoroughfare.
PLACES Along the Ramblas

Cutting through Barcelonas old town areas, and con-
necting Plaa de Catalunya with the harbour, its at the
heart of the citys life and self-image lined with cafs,
restaurants, souvenir shops, flower stalls and newspa-
per kiosks. The name, derived from the Arabic ramla (or
sand), refers to the bed of a seasonal stream, which
was paved over in medieval times. Decorative benches,
plane trees and stately buildings were added in the
nineteenth century as the Ramblas became the locals
perambulation of choice. Today, the show goes on, day
or night, as street vendors, human statues, portrait
painters, buskers and card sharps add to the colour and
character of Barcelonas most enthralling street. There
are metro stops at Catalunya (top of the Ramblas),
Liceu (middle) and Drassanes (bottom), or you can walk
the entire length in about twenty minutes.
Plaa de Catalunya RAMBLAS FLOWER STALL
The huge square at the top of

the Ramblas stands right at the
heart of the city, with the old
town and port below it, and the
planned Eixample district above
and beyond. It was laid out in its
present form in the 1920s,
centred on a formal layout of
statues, fountains and trees, and
is the focal point of local events
and demonstrations notably
the mass gathering here on
New Years Eve.The most
prominent monument is the
towering angular slab and bust
dedicated to Francesc Maci,
first president of the Generalitat
(Catalan government), who died
in office in 1933. For visitors,
the square is known as the site
of the main city tourist office
(see p.188) down the steps in
the southeastern corner while
an initial orientation point is the
white-faced El Corte Ingls
department store on the eastern
side of the square. Across on the
Contents Places
52
N El Corte
Ingls CAFS, TAPAS AND
VIA
C AR R ER DE B ER GAR A PLAA DE RESTAURANTS
CARRER DE MOLES
C ATA L U N YA A Amaya 7
LAIE
ELL i
TAN
C D E
CA El
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Antiga Casa Figueras 5
TAN
RR Triangle E F Bar Central La Boqueria 4
RD
S TR U
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A
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CA Caf de lOpera 6
AV
Monument to
Along the Ramblas PLACES
RR LA
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DEL
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C DE LES R
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POR
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NN A Zurich 1
TA L
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SA
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LAS RAMBLAS
DE BARS
AM
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RR
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CA Bosc de la Fades 8
GEL
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N SU CC ES
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C. BO CA
JOA Q UIM PO U
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SA BE TS ER
R I P OLL
LS C D E LI DE
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PLAA DE LA Palau de la
C. D E BOQUERIA Generalitat
PLAA L HO SP ITA L LICEU Casa Bruno PLAA DE
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EL Mirador de 0 100 m
Coln
Contents Places
53
southwest side (over the road Palau Moja
from the top of the Ramblas) is Ramblas 188 t 933 162 740.
El Triangle shopping centre, Bookshop MonFri 9am8pm, Sat
incorporating not only a variety 9am2pm & 48pm; Sala Palau Moja
of stores and exhibition space TuesSat 11am8pm, Sun 11am3pm.

but also the popular Zurich caf Gallery admission usually free. The
(p.57) in its ground floor. arcaded Palau Moja dates from
the late eighteenth centu-
ry and still retains an
exterior staircase and ele-
gant great hall.The
ground floor of the
building, restored by the
Generalitat, is now a
bookshop relating to all
things Catalan, while the
palaces gallery, the Sala
Palau Moja, is open for
contemporary art exhibi-
tions the gallery
entrance is around the
corner in c/Portaferrissa.
Take a look, too, at the
illustrated tiles above the
fountain at the start of
c/Portaferrissa, which
show the medieval gate
(the Porta Ferria) and
market that once stood
here.
Palau de la Virreina
Ramblas 99 t 933 017 775,
RAMBLAS FOUNTAIN w www.bcn.es/cultura.
Galleries TuesFri 11am2pm &
Esglsia de Betlem 48.30pm, Sat 11am8.30pm, Sun
Ramblas 107 t 933 183 823. Daily 11am3pm; information office
8am6pm. It seems hard to MonSat 10am8pm, Sun 11am3pm.
believe, but the Ramblas was a The graceful eighteenth-century
war zone during the Spanish Palau de la Virreina is set back
Civil War as the city erupted slightly from the Ramblas.
into factionalism.With anar- Commissioned by a Peruvian
chists sacking the citys churches viceroy, Manuel Amat, and
at will in 1936, the rich interior named after the wife who sur-
of the Baroque Esglsia de vived him, its five Ramblas-
Betlem (1681) was completely facing bays are adorned with
destroyed by fire and only the pilasters and Rococo windows.
main facade on c/del Carme Today the buildings galleries are
survived the destruction: it still used to house changing exhibi-
sports a fine sculpted portal and tions of contemporary art and
a relief depicting the Nativity. photography (admission some-
times charged).The ground
floor of the palace also contains
Contents Places
54
the Institut de Culturas walk-in a former convent between 1836
information centre and ticket and 1840, the cavernous hall
office for cultural events run by stretches back behind the high
the Ajuntament (city council). wrought-iron entrance arch fac-
Theres a shop too (TuesSat ing the Ramblas. Its a riot of
10am8.30pm), featuring locally noise and colour, as popular

produced objets dart and other with locals who come here to
items relating to the city. shop daily as with snap-happy
PALAU DE LA VIRREINA
tourists. Everything radiates out
from the central banks of fish
and seafood stalls great piles of
fruit and vegetables, bunches of
herbs and pots of spices, baskets
of wild mushrooms, mounds of
cheese and sausage, racks of
bread, hanging hams, and meat
counters dripping blood into
the gutters below. If youre
going to buy, do some browsing
first, as the flagship fruit and veg
stalls by the entrance tend to
have higher prices than those
further inside.There are also
some excellent stand-up snack
bars in here the Pinotxo the
most famous and a good mar-
ket restaurant (Gardua) at the
back of the building; see p.58
for both.
Mercat de la Boqueria Plaa de la Boqueria

Ramblas 91 t 933 182 584, The halfway point of the
w www.ac-boqueria.com. MonSat Ramblas is marked by Plaa de
6am8pm. The citys glorious la Boqueria, which sports a large
main food market is officially round mosaic by Joan Mir in
called the Mercat Sant Josep, the middle of the pavement.
though its referred to locally as This is one of a number of pub-
La Boqueria. Built on the site of lic works in the city by the
Ramblas statues
You cant move for human statues on the Ramblas. As fads and fashions change,
Greek statues and Charlie Chaplins have given way to the latest movie characters,
standing immobile on their little home-made plinths, daring you to catch them out
in a blink. Some join in the fun Mr Burns and Lisa Simpson posing jauntily
for photographs, Matador swirling a cape for the camera, Orange Twirly Girl
windmilling her streamers as money is dropped in front of her. Many are actors (or
at least waiters who say theyre actors), and others make a claim to art how else
to begin to explain Silver Cowboy, lounging on the railings at Liceu metro, or
Tree Sprite, clinging chameleon-like to one of the Ramblas plane trees. Then
theres the plain weird, like Lady Under Rock, her bottom half crushed under a
boulder, issuing plaintive shrieks at passers-by.
Contents Places
55

MIR MOSAIC
artist, who was born just a cou- in 1893 when an anarchist threw
ple of minutes walk off the two bombs into the stalls during
Ramblas in the Barri Gtic. a production of William Tell
Close by, at Ramblas 82, the twenty people died.The Liceu
Casa Bruno Quadros the then burned down for the third
lower floor is now the Caixa time in 1994, when a workers
Sabadell was built in the 1890s blowtorch set fire to the scenery
to house an umbrella store. Its during last-minute alterations to
unusual facade is decorated with an opera set. Fully restored once
a green dragon and Oriental more, the lavishly decorated inte-
designs, and scattered with para- rior is accessible on tours, which
sols. On the other side of the depart from the opera houses
Ramblas at no. 83, there are modern extension, the Espai
more modernista flourishes on Liceu youll see and learn most
the Antiga Casa Figueras on the guided 10am tour (the
(1902), which overdoses on other, cheaper tours are self-guid-
stained glass and mosaics, and ed). If you want to attend an
sports a corner relief of a female opera or recital (including the
reaper. Its now a renowned popular late-night concerts or ses-
bakery-caf (see p.57). sions golfes), you should check the
website for details and make
Gran Teatre del Liceu bookings well in advance.
Ramblas 5159 w www.liceubarcelona
.com. Box office t 934 859 913; tours Centre dArt Santa Mnica
t 934 859 914, depart daily 10am, Ramblas 7 t 933 162 810, w http
11.30am, noon & 1pm. e3.50/5.50. ://cultura.gencat.net/casm. TuesSat
Barcelonas celebrated opera 11am8pm, Sun 11am3pm. Free. The
house was first founded in 1847 Augustinian convent of Santa
and rebuilt after a fire in 1861 to Mnica dates originally from
become Spains grandest theatre. 1626, making it the oldest build-
Regarded as a bastion of the ing on the Ramblas. It was
citys late nineteenth-century entirely remodelled in the 1980s,
commercial and intellectual class- and now hosts regularly changing
es, the Liceu was devastated again exhibitions of contemporary art
Contents Places
56
on the ground floor.Theres also
a city information office at the Shops
centre, and a caf-bar upstairs.
Pavement artists and palm readers El Corte Ingls
occasionally set up stall outside Pl. de Catalunya 14 t 933 063 800,
here on the Ramblas, augmented w www.elcorteingles.es. The citys

on weekend afternoons by a biggest department store has
small street market selling jew- nine retail floors, a basement
ellery and ornaments. supermarket and best of all
a top-floor caf with terrific
Museu de Cera views.
Ramblas 46, entrance on Ptge. de
Banca t 933 172 649, w www Espai Liceu
.museocerabcn.com. JulySept daily Ramblas 5159 t 934 859 913. The
10am10pm; OctJune MonFri shop and caf in the opera
10am1.30pm & 47.30pm, Sat & Sun house extension has the widest
11am2pm & 4.308.30pm. e6.65. range of opera CDs and DVDs
The citys wax museum is locat- in the city, as well as selling
ed in an impressive nineteenth- Liceu branded T-shirts, coffee
century bank building. It presents mugs, ceramics and other sou-
the usual trawl through the venirs.
internationally famous and infa-
mous, plus dated film characters, El Triangle
a mixed bag of public figures Pl. de Catalunya 4 t 933 180 108.
from Mother Teresa to Yasser Shopping centre dominated by
Arafat, and underwater and space the flagship FNAC store,
capsule simulations. However, if which specializes in books
this doesnt appeal, it is worth at (good travel and English selec-
least poking your head into the tions), music CDs and comput-
museums extraordinary bar, the er software. Also a Camper
Bosc de les Fades (p.58), while for (Spains most stylish, value-for-
aficionados of kitsch there are money shoe-shop chain),
night visits every Saturday at Sephora for cosmetics, Habitat,
8.30pm and 9.30pm (e12, drink and various clothes shops, plus
included; in Spanish only) with magazines and caf on the
actors and special effects ratchet- ground floor.
ing up the atmosphere.
RAMBLAS KIOSK
Contents Places
57
Cava Universal
Pl. Portal de la Pau 4 t 933 026 184.
Daily 9am10pm. A useful drinks
and snacks spot on the lower
Ramblas, with a sunny terrassa

looking directly onto the
Columbus monument.
Zurich
Pl. Catalunya 1 t 933 179 153.
MonFri 8am11pm, Sat & Sun
10am11pm, JuneSept open until
1am. The most famous meet-
and-greet caf in town, right at
the top of the Ramblas under-
neath El Triangle shopping cen-
tre. Its good for croissants and
breakfast bocadillos (sandwiches)
and theres a huge terrace, but
sit inside if you dont want to be
bothered by endless rounds of
buskers and beggars.
ANTIGA CASA FIGUERAS

Restaurants and
tapas bars
Cafs Amaya
Ramblas 2024 t 933 026 138 (bar),
Antiga Casa Figueras t 933 021 037 (restaurant),
Ramblas 83 t 933 016 027. MonSat w www.restauranteamaya.com. Bar
9am3pm & 58.30pm. Pastries from daily 10am12.30am; restaurant daily
the Escrib family business in a 1.304pm & 8.30pmmidnight. A
modernista-designed pastry shop, Ramblas fixture since 1941
with a few tables inside and out. restaurant on one side, tapas bar
Many people rate this as the best on the other, both serving very
bakery in Barcelona. good Basque seafood specialities,
including octopus, baby squid,
Caf de lOpera clams, mussels, anchovies and
Ramblas 74 t 933 177 585. Daily prawns.The smoke-filled bar
9am3am. This venerable caf- offers the cheapest (and most
bar retains its late enjoyable) introduction to the
nineteenth-century decor as cuisine; otherwise, main dishes in
well as a bank of sought-after the restaurant cost e1420.
pavement tables. Its not a
complete tourist-fest long a Bar Central la Boqueria
favourite for pre- and post- Mercat de la Boqueria, Ramblas 91; no
performance refreshments, locals phone. MonSat 6.30am4pm. The
pop in for fine coffee, a good gleaming chrome stand-up bar
range of cakes, snacks and tapas, in the central aisle is the venue
or a late-night sangria de cava. for ultra-fresh market produce,
Contents Places
Along the Ramblas PLACES 58
AMAYA RESTAURANT
served by blue-smocked staff Gardua

who work at a fair lick. Mercat de la Boqueria, c/Jerusalem 18
Breakfast, snack or lunch, its all t 933 024 323. MonSat 14pm &
the same to them salmon cut- 8pmmidnight. Tucked away at the
lets, sardines, calamari, razor back of the frenetic Boqueria
clams, hake fillets, sausages, pork market, this is a great place for
steaks, asparagus spears and the lunch (when theres a e9.50
rest, plunked on the griddle and men del dia; otherwise e13.50 at
sprinkled with salt. Breakfast night) basically, youre going to
costs just a few euros, more like be offered the best of the days
e510 for a main dish and a produce at pretty reasonable
drink. prices, and if youre lucky youll
get a seat with market views.
Bar Pinotxo
Mercat de la Boqueria, Ramblas 91
t 933 171 731. MonSat 6am5pm. Bars
The markets most renowned
refuelling stop just inside the Bosc de les Fades
main entrance on the right Ptge. de Banca 5 t 933 172 649.
attracts traders, chefs, tourists MonThurs & Sun 10.30am1am, Fri &
and celebs, who stand three Sat 10.30am3am. Tucked away in
deep at busy times. A tallat an alley off the Ramblas, by the
(small white coffee) and a wax museum, the Forest of the
grilled sandwich is the local Fairies is festooned with
breakfast of choice; otherwise gnarled plaster tree trunks,
let the cheery staff steer you hanging branches, fountains and
towards the tapas and daily spe- stalactites. Its a bit cheesy, which
cials. is perhaps why its a huge hit
with the twenty-something
crowd who huddle in the
grottoes and decorative side
rooms.
Contents Places
59
Barri Gtic
The highly picturesque Barri Gtic, or Gothic Quarter, on
the east side of the Ramblas, forms the very heart of
PLACES Barri Gtic

Barcelonas old town. Its buildings date principally from
the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, when Barcelona
reached the height of her medieval prosperity, and culmi-
nate in the extraordinary Gothic cathedral known as La
Seu. Fanning out from here are arcaded squares and
skinny alleys containing several fascinating museums
and the surviving portions of the citys Roman walls. It
will take the best part of a day to see everything more if
you indulge yourself in the abundant cafs, antique
shops, boutiques and galleries. The main areas to explore
lie north of c/de Ferran and c/de Jaume I, around the
cathedral; and south from Plaa Reial and c/dAvinyo to
the harbour the latter district is rather less gentrified
than the cathedral area and you should take care at night
in the poorly lit streets. Metros Liceu and Jaume I mark
the eastwest boundaries of the Barri Gtic.
LA SEU La Seu
Pl. de la Seu t 933 151 554,
w www.catedralbcn.org. MonFri
8am1.15pm & 57.30pm, Sat & Sun
8am1.15pm & 57.45pm. Free.
Barcelonas cathedral is one of
the great Gothic buildings of
Spain. Located on a site
previously occupied by a
Roman temple, it was begun in
1298 and finished in 1448
save the neo-Gothic principal
facade, completed in the 1880s.
La Seu is dedicated to Santa
Eullia, who was martyred by
the Romans for daring to prefer
Christianity, and her ornate
tomb rests in a crypt beneath
the high altar. However, the
most renowned part of the
cathedral is its magnificent
fourteenth-century cloister
(daily 9am1pm & 57pm;
free), which looks over a lush
tropical garden complete with
soaring palm trees and honking
white geese. Dont leave
without ascending to the roof
Contents Places
60
CAFS, TAPAS AND

RESTAURANTS El Mercadillo
Bar Celta Pulpera 31 CA RR ER
PO RT A FE
Bar del Pi 3 R R IS S
A
Bodega la Plata 30
Caf de lAcadmia 13
Cerera 12 Mercat de Sala
Barri Gtic PLACES
la Boqueria Pares
Ginger 14
Irati 4
C D'EN ROCA
C PETRITXOL
Juicy Jones 5
LAS
PI
Limbo 29 Llibreria Quera L
DE
AMB
SALEM
Matsuri 21 ER
Mesn del Cafe 8 RR
CA
2
C JERU
Oolong 27 LAS R A
Saln 26 PLAA PA L L
DEL E LA
ER D
Shunka 1 PI 3 CARR
4 LArca del
Venus
PLAA
Delicatessen 23 SANAS PLAA
Veronica 20 CA SANT
Avia
ST AUGUSTI AL
Vinissim 6 D EN Santa JOSEP BDA
LICEU 5 AR ORIOL EUL SANT
Xaloc 2 M ER
C Maria ALI A
A
R
C AR del Pi
RIA
PL DE LA
US
BOQUERIA
BOQUE
C LL EB RE
YS NO
PLTA
i CA DEL PI
E LA
RRE
RAMON DEL CALL.

Cafe de 7
RD
CARRER BAN
AS
C ARC SANT
CS D
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AB
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UER
EN A
ANA
Gran Teatre IA
CARRER QUINT
CARRER RAURIC
CA RR E R D
LAS R
del Liceu CARRER DEL C

A LL
C S EULALIA
C VOLTA
REMEL
DEL
BARS AND CLUBS

Ascensor 16 CARRER DE FERRAN Manual
Caf Royale 19 Alpargatera
PTGE MADOZ
Herborista
VIDRE
C DEL
Fonfone 22 del Rey

Glaciar 9 URES C TRINITAT
PTGE DEL
C LES HE
CREDIT
Harlem Jazz Club 24 9

Jamboree 15 10 11
Karma 17 C 12
Leticia TRES LLITS BDA SANT MIQUEL
28 CARRER LLEONA
CARRE
Macarena 25
Pipa Club C COLOM PLAA
DELLERS
10
R D'A
Sidecar 11 REIAL
So-da 15
18
VINY
Tarantos 17
BLANCS
15
CARRER ESCU
18
Travel Bar 7

C NOU DE ZUR
PTGE BACARDI PLAA

VERNICA
C AGL A
19 AI 20
AR
EN
Art D' PLAA
R
Escudellers
E
GEORGE
RR
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SC UDELLER
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CARRER OBRAD
CARR
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PTG E ESC UDE LLER
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TEATRE
CAR RER NOU DE SA NT FR A NC ESC
25
ORS
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CAR
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CARRER DENRULL
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BOLTRE
C DENS
0 100 m AMP
LE PLAA
BRAILLE
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C L
MERCE
CAR
VE
DRASSANES CLA PLAA DUC
LM
Contents Places
61
LL
IP O
A
LL
CR
RU
C DELS AR CS
U CU 1
CC C S A G R I S TA N S
Collegi
C DE
LS BOT dArquitectes
PLACES Barri Gtic

ERS
PLAA
NOVA AVINGUDA CATEDRAL Museu PLAA
Sant ANTONI
Felip Dioces MAURA
Neri Casa de
LArdiaca
Palau
Episcopal PLAA DE
C A R R E R D E L I R U R I TA
LA SEU Museu C D'A

PLAA C M
S FELIP ON C SANTA LLUCIA Frederic
V I A L A I E TA N A
TJ U
NERI C
B CARRER DELS COMTES Mars
CARRER DE
ISP
C S. F. NERI
E
Museu del La Seu PL
Calat SANT Sal del
IU Tinell
C SANT SEVER C MA
LS MER
PLAA PLAA C PARE
HONORAT
MANUEL CARRER PL RAMON GALLIFA

RIBE 6 DEL BERENGUER
CARRER DEL BISBE
C
PIET
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AD
Palau
C S DOMINGO DEL CALL
AT
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Palau Santa
SANT
Lloctinent
de la Agata
ADIS
CM
ARLE Generalitat
C VERGUER
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C FRENERIA
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C PARA DIS
C PA
CARRER
d'Histria
de La Ciutat
ORIA
CARRER B
CARRER LLIBRETERIA Cerera
8 Subir
PLAA DE PLAA DE JAUME I
SANT JAUME CARRER JA UME I Formatgeria
L'ANGEL M
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de Barcelona PL. Palams
SANT JUST
CA
13
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PLAA
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CAR
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D'ISAB
PASSEIG
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Contents Places
62
(daily 10.30am6pm; e2) the
elevator (ascensor als terrats) is just
to the left of the crypt steps
which provides intimate views
of the cathedral towers and
Barri Gtic PLACES
surrounding Gothic buildings.

Performances of the Catalan
national dance, the sardana, take
place in front of the cathedral
(FebJuly & SeptNov Sat
6.30pm & Sun noon), while the
wide, pedestrianized Avinguda
de la Catedral also hosts an
antiques market every Thursday,
and a Christmas craft fair every
December.
Plaa del Rei

The most concentrated batch of
historic monuments in the Barri
Gtic is the grouping around ARTISTS MARKET, PLAA SANT JOSEP ORIEL
the neat Plaa del Rei.The

square was once the courtyard during a visit to the Museu
of the palace of the counts of dHistria de la Ciutat (see
Barcelona, and across it stairs below).
climb to the fourteenth-century
Sal del Tinell, the palaces Museu dHistria de la Ciutat
main hall. It was on the steps Pl. del Rei, entrance on c/del Veguer
leading from the Sal del Tinell t 933 151 111, w www.museuhistoria
into the Plaa del Rei that .bcn.es. JuneSept TuesSat
Ferdinand and Isabella stood to 10am8pm, Sun 10am3pm; OctMay
receive Columbus on his TuesSat 10am2pm & 48pm, Sun
triumphant return from his 10am3pm. e4, first Sat afternoon of
famous voyage of 1492. At one the month free.The crucial draw of
time the Spanish Inquisition the City History Museum is its
met here, taking full advantage underground archeological
of the popular belief that the section nothing less than the
walls would move if a lie was extensive remains of the Roman
spoken. Nowadays it hosts city of Barcino. Descending in
temporary exhibitions, while the elevator (the floor indicator
concerts are occasionally held in shows 12 BC), you are
the hall or outside in the square. deposited onto walkways that
The palace buildings also run along the 4000 square
include the fourteenth-century metres excavated thus far,
Capella de Santa Agata, with stretching under Plaa del Rei
its tall single nave and fine and the surrounding streets as
Gothic retable, and the far as the cathedral.The remains
Renaissance Torre del Rei date from the first century BC
Mart, which rises above one to the sixth century AD and,
corner of the square.Theres while not much survives above
currently no public access to the chest height, explanatory
tower, but the interiors of the diagrams show the extent of the
hall and chapel can be seen streets, walls and buildings
Contents Places
63
from lookout towers to old town, and the summer caf
laundries while models, here (Caf dEstiu; open
mosaics, murals and excavated AprilOct, closed Mon) makes a
goods help flesh out the reality perfect place to take a break
of daily life in Barcino. from sightseeing.
PLACES Barri Gtic

The museum also offers
visitors the chance to see the Esglsia de Santa Mara
interiors of the Plaa del Reis del Pi
finest buildings, and learn Pl. Sant Josep Oriol t 933 184 743,
something of the citys long w www.parroquiadelpi.com. MonSat
history. For a bit more depth, 8.30am1pm & 4.309pm, Sun
ask about the museum walking 9am2pm & 59pm. Five minutes
tours of the Plaa del Rei walk from the cathedral, the
ensemble (2hr; e57, in English fourteenth-century church of
by arrangement). Santa Mara is mainly Catalan-
Gothic in style though with a
Museu Frederic Mars Romanesque door.The rather
Pl. de Sant Iu 56 t 933 105 800, plain interior only serves to set
w www.museumares.bcn.es. TuesSat off some marvellous stained
10am7pm, Sun 10am3pm. e3, Wed glass, the most impressive of
afternoon & first Sun of month free. which is contained within a ten-
Frederic Mars (18931991) metre-wide rose window.The
was a sculptor, painter and church flanks Plaa Sant Josep
restorer who more or less Oriol, the prettiest of three
single-handedly restored adjacent squares, an ideal place
Catalunyas decaying medieval to take an outdoor coffee, listen
treasures in the early twentieth to the buskers and browse the
century.The ground and weekend artists market (Sat
basement floors of the museum 11am8pm, Sun 11am2pm).
consist of his personal collection The church is named like
of medieval sculpture an the squares on either side, Plaa
important body of work that del Pi and Placeta del Pi after
includes a comprehensive the pine tree that once stood
collection of wooden crucifixes here. A farmers market spills
showing the stylistic across Plaa del Pi on the first
development of this form from and third Friday and Saturday of
the twelfth to the fifteenth the month, selling honey,
centuries. However, its the cheese, cakes and other produce,
upper two floors, housing while Carrer de Petritxol (off
Mars personal collectibles, Plaa del Pi) is the place to
which tend to make jaws drop. come for a hot chocolate in one
Entire rooms are devoted to of the traditional cafs that still
keys and locks, pipes, cigarette thrive here.
cards and snuffboxes, fans, gloves
and brooches, playing cards, Sala Pars
draughtsmens tools, walking C/de Petritxol 58 t 933 187 020,
sticks, dolls houses, toy theatres, w www.salapares.com. MonSat
old gramophones and archaic 10.30am2pm & 58.30pm; closed
bicycles, to list just a sample of Aug. Possibly the most famous
whats on show.The large commercial art gallery in the
arcaded museum courtyard, city, established in the mid-
studded with orange trees, is nineteenth century, Sala Pars is
one of the most romantic in the well-known as the site of
Contents Places
64
of the main c/de
Ferran was once
the site of
Barcelonas
Roman forum
Barri Gtic PLACES
and marketplace.
Its now the
traditional site of
demonstrations
and gatherings, as
well as being one
venue for the
weekly dancing
SALA PARS of the Catalan
folk dance, the sardana (Sunday
Picassos first solo exhibition. It at 6.30pm). Participants all hold
still deals exclusively in hands in a circle, each puts
nineteenth- and twentieth- something in the middle as a
century Catalan art and youre sign of community and sharing,
free to browse the regularly and, since it is not over-
changing exhibitions. energetic (hence the jibes of
other Spaniards) old and young
Museu del Calat can join in equally.The
Pl. Sant Felip Neri 5 t 933 014 533. accompanying instrumental
TuesSun 11am2pm. e2.50. The group is called a cobla, and it
former headquarters of the citys includes the flabiol (a type of
shoemakers guild (founded in long flute), the tambori (drum),
1202) houses a one-room and tenor and soprano oboes.
footwear museum, containing
originals dating back to the Ajuntament de Barcelona
1600s as well as oddities like the Pl. de Sant Jaume t 934 027 000.
worlds biggest shoe, made for Public admitted Sun 10am2pm. Free.
the citys Columbus statue.The On the south side of Plaa de
museum flanks one side of Plaa Sant Jaume stands Barcelonas city
Sant Felip Neri, whose hall, parts of which date from as
eponymous church still bears early as 1373. On Sundays youre
the marks of bomb damage allowed into the building to see
sustained during the Civil War. the most interesting part, the
Incidentally, Barcelonas medieval restored fourteenth-century
Jewish quarter lay just to the council chamber, the Sal de
south of Plaa Sant Felip Neri, Cent, on the first floor.To view
centred on todays c/Sant the former main entrance, head a
Domnec del Call (Call is the little way down c/de la Ciutat to
Catalan word for a narrow find a typically exuberant
passage). A plaque at c/Sant Catalan-Gothic facade that was
Domnec del Call 7 marks the badly damaged during
site of the synagogue, while the renovations in the nineteenth
Jewish baths are believed to have century.
been located somewhere on
c/de Banys Nous. Palau de la Generalitat
Pl. de Sant Jaume t 934 024 600.
Plaa de Sant Jaume Tours on 2nd and 4th Sun of the month
The spacious square at the end (not Aug), every 20min, 10am2pm;
Contents Places
65
also on April 23, and Sept 11 & 24. their sweethearts a rose and
Free. The traditional home of receive a book in return
the Catalan government (although, in recent years,
presents its best or at least its modernization has demanded
oldest aspect around the side books for women and roses for
PLACES Barri Gtic

on c/del Bisbe, where the early men as well).The Generalitats
fifteenth-century facade precincts are packed with book
contains a medallion portraying stalls and rose sellers on this day,
St George and the dragon. with huge queues forming to
(Incidentally, the enclosed get in the building.
Gothic bridge across the narrow
street the so-called Bridge of Esglsia dels Sants Just i
Sighs is an anachronism, added Pastor
in 1928.) Through the palaces Pl. de Sant Just 6 t 933 017 433.
Renaissance main entrance, Open for Mass at 7.30pm (Sun at
facing Plaa de Sant Jaume, noon) and occasional other times.
theres a beautiful cloister on the Plaa de Sant Just is a medieval
first floor with superb coffered gem, sporting a restored
ceilings, while opening off this fourteenth-century fountain and
gallery are two fine rooms the flanked by unassuming palaces.
chapel and salon of Sant Jordi Highlight here is the Esglsia
(St George, patron saint of dels Sants Just i Pastor, whose
Catalunya as well as England). very plain stone facade belies
You can visit the interior on a the rich stained glass and
guided tour on alternate elaborate chapel decoration
Sundays while the Generalitat is inside (enter from the back, at
also traditionally open on public c/de la Ciutat; the main doors
holidays, particularly April 23 on Pl. de Sant Just are open less
the Dia de Sant Jordi (St often).The name
Georges Day). Celebrated as a commemorates the citys earliest
nationalist holiday in Catalunya, Christian martyrs, and its
this is also a kind of local claimed (though theres no real
Valentines Day, when men give evidence) that this is the oldest
IRON LAMPS, PLAA REIAL
Contents Places
Barri Gtic PLACES 66
PLAA GEORGE ORWELL
parish church site in Barcelona, their own. If you pass through

held to have first supported a on a Sunday morning, look in
foundation at the beginning of on the coin and stamp
the ninth century. market (10am2pm).
Plaa Reial Carrer dAvinyo

The elegant nineteenth-century Carrer dAvinyo, running south
Plaa Reial is hidden behind an from c/de Ferran towards the
archway off the Ramblas. Laid harbour, cuts through the most
out in around 1850, the atmospheric part of the
Italianate square is studded with southern Barri Gtic. It used to
tall palm trees and decorated be a red-light district of some
iron lamps (designed by the renown, and was frequented by
young Antoni Gaud), bordered the young Picasso, whose family
by high, pastel-coloured arcaded moved into the area in 1895. It
buildings, and centred on a still looks the part a narrow
fountain depicting the Three thoroughfare lined with dark
Graces.Taking in the sun at one overhanging buildings but the
of the benches or pavement fashionable cafs and boutiques
cafs puts you in mixed tell the story of its creeping
company punks, bikers, gentrification. A few rough
buskers, Catalan eccentrics, edges still show, particularly
tramps and bemused tourists. It around Plaa George Orwell,
used to be a bit dodgy in Plaa whose low steps and funky bars
Reial, but most of the really are a favoured hangout for the
unsavoury characters have been grunge crowd.
driven off over the years as
tourists have staked an Carrer de la Merc
increasing claim to the square. In the eighteenth century, the
Nonetheless, keep an eye on neighbourhood known as La
your belongings, and dont Merc just a block from the
expect to see too many locals harbour was an aristocratic
until night falls, when the address, home to the many
surrounding bars come into nobles and merchants enriched
Contents Places
67
by Barcelonas maritime trade. Cerera Subir
Most fashionable families took Bxda. Llibreteria 7 t 933 152 606.
the opportunity to move north Barcelonas oldest shop (since
to the Eixample later in the 1760) has a beautiful interior,
nineteenth century, and the selling unique handcrafted
PLACES Barri Gtic

streets of La Merc took on an candles.
earthier hue. Since then, Carrer
de la Merc and surrounding Formatgeria La Seu
streets have been home to a C/Daguera 16 t 934 126 548. Closed
series of characteristic old-style Mon. The best farmhouse cheeses
taverns known as tascas or from independent producers all
bodegas a glass of wine from over Spain. Catherine, whos
the barrel in Bodega la Plata (see Scottish, will introduce you into
p.69), or a similar joint, is one of the world of cheese with
the old towns more authentic Saturday cheese tastings
experiences. (noon3pm; e5).
At Plaa de la Merc, the
eighteenth-century Esglsia de Futura
la Merc is the focus of the C/Escudellers 56 t 933 174 975.
citys biggest annual celebration, Argentinean designer producing
the Festa de la Merc (see clothes from interesting,
p.191) every September, colourful fabrics.
dedicated to the patroness of
Barcelona.The square outside Gotham
was remodelled in the twentieth C/Cervantes 7 t 934 124 647. The
century around its statue of place to come for retro
Neptune. furniture, lighting and
accessories from all periods from
the 1930s to 1970s, plus original
Shops designs.
LArca del Avia PLAA DUC DE MEDINACELI
C/Banys Nous 20 t 933 021 598.

Catalan brides used to fill up
their nuptial trunk (larca) with
embroidered bed linen and lace.
Period (eighteenth-, nineteenth-
and early twentieth-century)
costumes can be hired or
purchased as well Kate Winslets
Titanic costume came from here.
Art Escudellers
C/Escudellers 2325 t 934 126 801,
w www.escudellers-art.com.
Enormous shop selling a wide
range of ceramics, glass,
jewellery and decorated tiles
from different regions of Spain.
Shipping can be arranged, and
theres also a gourmet wine and
food section.
Contents Places
68
Herboristeria del Rey
C/del Vidre 1 t 933 180 512. An Cafs
early nineteenth-century
herbalists shop, tucked off Plaa Bar del Pi
Reial, which stocks more than Pl. Sant Josep Oriol 1 t 933 022 123.
Barri Gtic PLACES
250 medicinal herbs designed to MonSat 9am11pm, Sun

combat all complaints. 10am10pm; closed 2 weeks in Jan &
Aug. Small caf-bar best known
Llibreria Quera for its terrace on one of
C/Petritxol 2 t 933 180 743, Barcelonas prettiest squares.
w www.llibreriaquera.com. Closed Sat in Service can be slow not that
Aug. Best and most knowledgeable anyones in a hurry in this
place in town for Catalan maps prime people-watching spot.
and trekking guides, though its a
bit of a squeeze in the cramped Cerera
little store. Bxda. de Sant Miquel 35 t 933 058
110. MonSat 10am10pm. Amiably
hip caf where the decor is
thrift-store chic, with piles of
old papers and magazines to
while away the hours. Food is
breakfast- and veggie-friendly,
with great-looking cakes and a
changing roster of daily specials.
Mesn del Cafe

C/Llibreteria 16 t 933 150 754.
MonSat 7am11pm. Offbeat
locals bar where youll probably
have to stand to sample the
pastries and the excellent coffee
including a cappuccino laden
with fresh cream.
Venus Delicatessen
ESPADRILLES, MANUAL ALPARGATERA C/dAviny 25 t 933 011 585.
MonSat noonmidnight. Med-bistro
Manual Alpargatera cuisine available throughout the
C/dAviny 7 t 933 010 172, day and night. Its good for
w www.lamanualalpargatera.com. vegetarians, with lasagne,
This traditional workshop makes couscous, moussaka and salads
and sells alpargatas (espadrilles) all costing around e59, and
to order, as well as producing theres a well-priced weekday
other straw and rope work. lunchtime men del dia too.
El Mercadillo Xaloc
C/Portaferrissa 17 t 933 018 913. C/Palla 1317 t 933 011 990.
Double-decker complex of MonThurs & Sun 9ammidnight, Fri &
shops selling skate-, club- and Sat 9am1am. A contemporary
beachwear and shoes look out xarcuteria and deli so you can
for the camel marking the get any kind of cured meat and
entrance.Theres a bar upstairs cheese in your sandwich but
with a nice patio garden. its also an airy place to stop for
Contents Places
69
Caf de lAcadmia
C/Lled 1 t 933 198 253. MonFri
9amnoon, 1.304pm &
8.4511.30pm; closed 2 weeks in Aug.
Creative Catalan cooking in a
PLACES Barri Gtic

romantic stone-flagged
restaurant with lovely summer
terrassa. Dishes range from confit
of bacall (salt cod) with spinach
and pine kernels to aubergine
terrine with goats cheese, plus
grills, fresh fish and rice. Prices
are very reasonable (mains
e1016) and its always busy, so
dinner reservations are essential.
A no-choice men del dia
(e11.50, e8 at the bar) is a
bargain for the quality; a nice
COURTYARD CAF, EL MERCADILLO
SHOPPING CENTRE
breakfast is served too.
a coffee.The men del dia is Ginger

e10. C/Palma Sant Just 1 t 933 105 309.
TuesSat 7pm3am; closed 2 weeks in
Aug. Cocktails and creative tapas
Restaurants and in a groovy 1970s-style setting.
Its a world away from patatas
tapas bars bravas and battered squid think
roast duck vinaigrette, tuna
Bar Celta Pulpera tartare and vegetarian satay for
C/de la Merc 16 t 933 150 006. around e57 a pop.
MonSat 10am1am. This no-
nonsense brightly lit Galician Irati
tapas bar specializes in octopus, C/Cardenal Casaas 17 t 933 023
fried pimientos (peppers) and 084. TuesSun noonmidnight; pintxos
heady regional wine. Its best to served noon3pm & 711pm.
ask prices as you go here the Crowded brick-walled bar
foods good but the bill has a where locals think favourably of
habit of mounting up, especially the pintxos (Basque tapas, pinned
for out-of-towners. with sticks to a baguette slice),
which run the gamut from
Bodega la Plata country sausage to smoked
C/de la Merc 28 t 933 151 009. salmon.Theres a seasonally
Daily 10am4pm & 811pm. A changing Basque menu in the
classic taste of the old town, restaurant if finger food isnt
with a marble counter open to your thing, with mains around
the street and wine straight e1820.
from the barrel. Anchovies are
the speciality (salted and laid Juicy Jones
over cut tomatoes or deep- C/Cardenal Casaas 7 t 933 024 330.
fried, like whitebait), attracting Daily 10ammidnight. Veggie-vegan
an enthusiastic local crowd, restaurant/juice bar with a e9
from pre-clubbers to men del dia that touches all
businessmen. corners of the world say
Contents Places
Barri Gtic PLACES 70
CARRER DE LA PALLA
cashew, carrot and coriander costing up to e30.The short

soup followed by pumpkin- menu changes weekly, but
stuffed gnocchi.The restaurant is Asian, Mediterranean and South
in a mural-and-graffiti-ridden American flavours set the tone
cellar at the back juices are dishes like asparagus tempura
squeezed and soy milkshakes and stuffed pork loin grab
whizzed at the front bar. diners taste buds. Its only small,
so reservations are advised.
Limbo
C/de la Merc 13 t 933 107 699. Saln
MonThurs & Sun 9pmmidnight, Fri & C/lHostal den Sol 68 t 933 152 159.
Sat 9pm1am; closed 2 weeks in Aug. MonSat 1.304.30pm & 8.30pm
Designer restaurant with an midnight; closed 2 weeks in Aug. Old
intimate feel, presenting an building with a Gothic sort of
interesting fusion of modern and feel, serving imaginative dishes in
traditional Catalan cuisine, like a relaxed bistro atmosphere.The
tuna with goats cheese or perch menu ranges far and wide from,
served in a Thai-style curry. say, rabbit with a mole sauce and
Most main dishes cost e1116. tacos to curried vegetables with a
yoghurt and coconut sauce.
Matsuri Mains cost e1215, or theres a
Pl. Regomir 1 t 932 681 535. MonFri weekday lunchtime men del dia
1.303.30pm & 811.30pm, Sat at e9.50; you can stay late and
811.30pm. Excellent Southeast drink at the bar too.
Asian cuisine, concentrating on
noodles,Thai salads and curries. Shunka
Service is friendly, and the C/Sagristans 5 t 934 124 991.
wooden Indonesian-style TuesFri 1.303.30pm &
furniture and terracotta colours 8.3011.30pm, Sat & Sun 24pm &
make for a relaxed meal. Around 8.3011.30pm; closed 2 weeks in
e25 a head. Aug.The locals think this is the
best Japanese restaurant in the
Oolong old town its certainly always
C/den Gignas 25 t 933 151 259. Daily busy, so make an advance
8pm1am. Refined fusion food in reservation, sit back and enjoy.
an informal setting, with dinner You can have the works for
Contents Places
71
e30, though sushi and a drink Caf Royale
at the bar by the open kitchen is C/Nou de Zurbano 3 t 934 121 433.
an enjoyable compromise. Daily 7pm3am. Sleek lounge bar
where all the beautiful people
Veronica get together to show off their
PLACES Barri Gtic

C/dAvinyo 30 t 934 121 122. Daily best moves to the Latin jazz,
noon1am; closed 2 weeks in Aug. soul and funky tunes. A
Crispy pizzas (all bar one conundrum: arrive after
vegetarian) and inventive salads midnight and youll have to join
are served at tables on funky the queue; come too early and
Plaa George Orwell, which youll be on your own.
catches the sun during the day.
At night theres a bit of a gay Glaciar
scene as the urban-chic bar- Pl. Reial 3 t 933 021 163. MonThurs
restaurant comes into play. 4pm2am, Fri & Sat 4pm3am, Sun
9am2am. At this traditional
Vinissim Barcelona meeting point the
C/Sant Domnec del Call 12 t 933 014 terrace seating is packed out
575. TuesSun noon4pm & most sunny evenings and at
6pm1am. Upscale tavern food weekends.
sliced meats, salads, torrades
(toasted bread with tomato and Leticia
oil) accompanied by fine C/de Codols 21 t 933 020 074. Daily
Catalan wines available by the except Tues 7pm3am. Cosy bar
glass. Lunch (e13) outside on with mellow sounds and a laid-
Plaa Manuel Ribe is a treat on back clientele the sofa at the
a warm day. back is the seat in demand.
Monthly art exhibitions add
some colour, while sandwiches,
Bars salads and cakes are served until
late.
Ascensor
C/Bellafila 3 t 933 185 347. Daily Pipa Club
6pm3am. Old lift doors and Pl. Reial 3 t 933 024 732,
control panel signal the entrance w www.bpipaclub.com. Daily
to this popular local bar. Its not 11pm3am. Historically a pipe-
at all touristy, and has a smokers haunt, its a
comfortable feel great for a wood-panelled, jazzy, late-night
late-night drink and a natter. kind of place ring the bell for
PICASSO FRIEZE ON COLLEGI DARQUITECTES
Contents Places
72
admission and make your way Jamboree
up the stairs. Pl. Reial 17 t 933 191 789,
w www.masimas.com. Jazz gigs
So-da nightly at 11pm and 12.30am,
C/dAviny 24 t 934 122 776. Daily and then you stay on for the
Barri Gtic PLACES
9pm2.30am. In the daytime this club, playing funk, swing, hip-

place is a cutting-edge urban hop and R&B. Admission
clothes store; at night the e610.
designer rags are locked away
into cupboards and the place Karma
turns into a wicked bar, with Pl. Reial 10 t 933 025 680. TuesSun
comfy armchairs and tasty 11.30pm5am. A studenty
cocktails. basement place that can get
claustrophobic at times. Sounds
Travel Bar are indie, Britpop and US
C/Boqueria 27 t 933 425 252, college, while a lively local
w www.travelbar.com. MonThurs & crowd mills around the square
Sun 9am2am, Fri & Sat 9am3am. outside.
Backpacking Catalans have
brought their experiences home Macarena
to provide a bar where travellers C/Nou de Sant Francesc 5; no phone.
can hang out and meet like- MonThurs & Sun 11pm4am, Fri &
minded souls, sign up for tours, Sat 11pm5am. Once a place
check their email and generally where flamenco tunes were
chill out. offered up to La Macarena, the
Virgin of Seville. Now its a
heaving, funky, electronic
Clubs temple with a tolerant crowd
they have to be, as theres not
Fonfone much space. Entry usually free.
C/dels Escudellers 24 t 933 171 424,
w www.fonfone.com. Daily 10pm3am. Sidecar
Attracts a young crowd into fast, C/Heures 46, Pl. Reial t 933 021 586.
hard music, though it changes TuesSun 11pm4.30am. Hip music
mood sometimes with satin soul club pronounced See-day-
and best-of-1980s nights. car with nightly gigs and DJs
that champion rock, pop, fusion
Harlem Jazz Club and urban styles. Class local acts
C/Comtessa de Sobradiel 8 t 933 100 like GoLem System appear
755. Closed Aug. Small, usually regularly; entry from e6.
jam-packed venue for mixed
jazz styles, from African and Tarantos
Gypsy to flamenco and fusion; Pl. Reial 17 t 933 191 789,
live music nightly at 10.30pm w www.masimas.com. Barcelonas
and midnight (weekends oldest flamenco show has
11.30pm & 1am). Cover charge nightly performances at 10pm,
up to e5. plus other jazz, funk and tango
gigs (entry from around e10),
followed by Latin and world
music sounds until 5am with
the resident DJ.
Contents Places
73
Port Vell and

Barceloneta
PLACES Port Vell and Barceloneta

Barcelona has an urban waterfront that merges seam-
lessly with the old town, providing an easy escape from
the claustrophobic medieval streets. The harbour at the
bottom of the Ramblas has been thoroughly overhauled
in recent years and Port Vell (Old Port), as its now
known, presents a series of heavyweight tourist attrac-
tions, from sightseeing boats to a maritime museum
not to mention the shops, bars and restaurants of the
entertainment centre called Maremgnum. By way of
contrast, Barceloneta the wedge of land to the east,
backing the marina retains its eighteenth-century
character, and the former fishing quarter is still the
most popular place to come and eat paella, fish and
seafood. Metro Drassanes, at the bottom of the
Ramblas, is the best starting point for Port Vell;
Barceloneta has its own metro station.
Mirador de Coln depart on regular trips

Pl. Portal de la Pau t 933 025 224. April throughout the year around the
& May daily 10am-7.30pm; JuneSept inner harbour see p.190.
daily 9am8.30pm; OctMarch MonFri
MIRADOR DE COLN
10am1.30pm & 3.306.30pm, Sat &
Sun 10am6.30pm. e2. The striking
monument at the foot of the
Ramblas commemorates the visit
made by Christopher Columbus
to Barcelona in June 1493, when
the Italian-born navigator was
received in style by the Catholic
monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella.
Columbus tops a grandiose iron
column, 52m high, guarded by
lions, around which unfold reliefs
telling the story of his life and
travels here, if nowhere else,
the old mercenary is still the
discoverer of America.You can
ride the lift up to the enclosed
viewing platform at Columbuss
feet, from where the 360-degree
views are terrific. Meanwhile,
from the quayside in front of the
Columbus monument, Las
Golondrinas sightseeing boats
Contents Places
74
RRA
A
AVIN
C D E PO NA La Merc
S M AD RO
AV
RIE RT A L SA N
DA
GU
IN
AU TA DRASSANES
PA L VE
DA
GU
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CD
CD M ELM
DE
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IG UER ANS LA MERC
LE
AL
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PLAA DUC
SD
RA Govern C JO
Drassanes E
PA
BAR
I
E IG D
SS DE MEDINACELI
P U IG A NES Militar
RA
DE
EDA
(Museu PA S S
LL
C
Martim) PLAA PORTAL Port de
EL
R A
CD
RRE DE LA PAU Barcelona

CA
E
E
Port Vell and Barceloneta PLACES
CD
V IL
Mirador de F U S TA
UC DE LA
I V IL
Coln MOLL
R Duana Port de
ARNE

E P G Barcelona
E JOS S A N ES Santa Eullia
PG. D S DRA
S
D E LE
M O LL
Las Golondrinas Real Club
OR AL (Boat trips) Nautico
L L IT Real Club
A DE
ROND Maritim
M O LL
Rambla
de Mar
PO RT
DE BA
(Swing Bridge)
Estaci
VELL
RC
E N
L D RA
Terminal Maremgnum
O L R T Trans-Mediterranea Martima
E LO N A
M BE 5 6
A NT NYA
S D ES PA
M OL L
Torre de Jaume I
MOLL DELS
World Trade Tra
Centre s RS
EA
(To bord BA
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Mo ado EL
S
TAPAS AND ntj r A LD
RESTAURANTS uc eri OL
) M
Antiga Casa Sol 8
Can Manel 10
Can Mao 3 Torre
de Sant
Can Ramonet 4 Sebasti
Can Ros 9
Cova Fumada 7
MO
dZi 11
LL
Jai-Ca 2 L
DE
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0 250 m CID LL
TA
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MO
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A
Museu Martim sections covering Catalunyas

Avgda. de les Drassanes t 933 429 relationship with the sea and
920, w www.diba.es/mmaritim. Daily containing sailing boats,
10am7pm. e5.40. Barcelonas figureheads, old maps and charts,
unique medieval shipyards, or navigation instruments and other
Drassanes, date from the nautical bits and pieces.Theres a
thirteenth century and were in good restaurant at the museum,
continuous use fitting and while the caf puts out tables in
arming Catalunyas war fleet or the pleasant courtyard.
trading vessels until well into
the eighteenth century.Today, Santa Eullia
the huge, stone-vaulted buildings Moll de la Fusta; no phone. TuesFri
make a fitting home for the noon5.30pm, Sat & Sun
enjoyable Maritime Museum, 10am5.30pm. e2.40, free with Museu
whose centrepiece is a full-scale Martim ticket. The three-masted
copy of a sixteenth-century royal ocean-going schooner Santa
galley which was originally Eullia is a flagship showpiece of
constructed here.This is the nearby Museu Martim.
surrounded by different thematic Dating from 1908, as the Carmen
Contents Places
75
V
C DE CO
NS
Llotja
ER C PLAA PLAA DEL
LA M DANTONI PALAU
ER D E Estaci
CARR LOPEZ Delegaci AL
C GE N ER OS
de
del Govern Frana
CA STA QUESA
M REINA MAR
COLO Lichtenstein C DE LATINA
CRIS
C DE LA
Sculpture

AV IN G
UDA
D I C
BARCELONETA R IA
1
Palau C DE M
L DO
de Mar CTOR ROND
PLAA A LG U
ADER A DEL LIT
DE PAU ORAL
Mirador VILA CD
Ictineo del Port EL
BA
LBO
Vell Marina Museu dHistria 2 A
CD
de Catalunya EG
INE
IMAX BR
A
TA
3
Port
NE
ELO
Vell 4
RC
San Miquel CD
RD
BA
EL Parc de la
UA
PLAA DE LA del Port AM
LA
LAqurium AQ Barceloneta
AL
BARCELONETA UIN
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CB
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Mercat de A
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PLAA POETA la Barceloneta

AR
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Sea Point NA I
Hostel B AST
AN T SE
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PLAA
PALMERES TJA
PLA
BARS
Irish Winds 5
Luz de Gas 1
Mojito Bar 6
Flores it once made the run undulating wooden walkways.

between Barcelona and Cuba, Inside are two floors of gift
but was subsequently acquired by shops and boutiques (including
the museum and fully restored. A an official FC Barcelona
short tour lets you walk the deck merchandise store), plus a wide
and shows off the interior. range of bars and restaurants
with harbourside seating and
Maremgnum high prices. Its a fun place to
Moll dEspanya t 932 258 100, come at night, though no self-
w www.maremagnum.es. Daily respecting local would rate the
11am11pm. From near the food as anything but ordinary.
Columbus statue, the wooden Outside, benches and park areas
Rambla de Mar swing bridge provide scintillating views back
strides across the harbour to across the harbour to the city.
Maremgnum on Moll
dEspanya, a typically bold piece LAqurium
of Catalan design, the soaring Moll dEspanya t 932 217 474,
glass lines of the leisure complex w www.aquariumbcn.com. Daily: July &
tempered by the surrounding Aug 9.30am11pm; SeptJune
Contents Places
Port Vell and Barceloneta PLACES 76
PORT DE BARCELONA BUILDING
9.30am9pm, until 9.30pm at alien adventure, etc but youll

weekends. e13.50. Adjacent to find that the films are in Spanish
Maremgnum, Port Vells high- or Catalan only. If this puts you
profile aquarium drags in off, saunter down instead to the
families and school parties sloping lawn nearby to examine
throughout the year to see a the replica of the strange fish-
magical world, full of mystery. shaped submarine, the Ictineo,
Or, to be more precise, to see a genuine Catalan curiosity,
fish and sea creatures in 21 invented in the mid-nineteenth
themed tanks representing century by radical visionary
underwater caves, tidal areas, Narcs Monturiol i Estarriol.
tropical reefs, the planets oceans
and other maritime habitats. Its
vastly overpriced, and despite
the claims of excellence it offers
few new experiences, save
perhaps the eighty-metre-long
walk-through underwater
tunnel which brings you face to
face with gliding rays and
cruising sharks. Some child-
centred displays and activities,
and a nod towards ecology and
conservation matters, pad out
the attractions, before youre
tipped out in the aquarium shop MARISCAL CRAYFISH, PORT VELL
so they can part you from even
more of your money. Museu dHistria de
Catalunya
IMAX Port Vell Palau de Mar, Pl. de Pau Vila 3 t 932
Moll dEspanya t 932 251 111, 254 700, w www.mhcat.net. Tues &
w www.imaxportvell.com. Screenings ThursSat 10am7pm, Wed
11am10.30pm, later at weekends. 10am8pm, Sun 10am2.30pm. e3,
Tickets e7 or e10. Barcelonas first Sun of month and public holidays
IMAX theatre stands next to free. The only surviving
the aquarium, with three screens warehouse on the Port Vell
showing films virtually hourly harbourside is known as the
in 3D or in giant format.The Palau de Mar, home to an
themes are familiar the enterprising museum tracing the
mysteries of the human body, history of Catalunya from the
Contents Places
77
Stone Age to the twentieth Plaa de la Font holds the local
century.There are temporary market, Mercat de la
shows on the ground floor, Barceloneta (MonSat
while a lift takes you up to the 7am3pm, plus Fri
permanent displays: second floor 4.308.30pm except in Aug),

for year dot to the Industrial while the seafood restaurants
Revolution, and third for that are the neighbourhoods
periods and events up to 1980 raison dtre are found scattered
(though later coverage is right across the tight grid of
planned).You can pick up full streets but most characteristically
English notes at the desk, and lined along the harbourside
theres plenty to get your teeth Passeig Joan de Borb.
into, whether its poking around
the interior of a Roman grain Passeig Martim
ship or comparing the rival A double row of palms backs
nineteenth-century architectural the sweeping stone esplanade
plans for the Eixample. On the that runs from Barcelonetas
fourth floor, the caf-bar boasts beach, Platja de Sant Sebasti, as
a glorious view from its huge far as the Port Olmpic. Its a
terrace of the harbour,Tibidabo, fifteen-minute walk from
Montjuc and the city skyline Barceloneta to the port, but
you dont need a museum ticket some do it much quicker than
to visit this. that the Passeig Martim is a
The seafood restaurants in the notable track for bladers, skaters
Palau de Mar arcade below and joggers, who have one of
the museum are some of the the Meds best views for
most popular in the city, company.
especially at weekends. Here
PLAA DE LA BARCELONETA
you overlook the packed
marina, where Catalans park
their yachts like they park their
cars impossibly tightly
fronted in summer by hawkers
spreading blankets on the
ground to sell jewellery and
sunglasses.
Barceloneta
Theres no finer place for lunch
on a sunny day than the
Barceloneta neighbourhood,
bound by the harbour on one
side and the Mediterranean on
the other. Laid out in 1755 as a
classic eighteenth-century grid,
its long, narrow streets are still
very much as they were
planned, broken at intervals by
small squares like Plaa de la
Barceloneta, with its eighteenth-
century fountain and
Neoclassical church of Sant
Miquel del Port.The adjacent
Contents Places
Port Vell and Barceloneta PLACES 78
ICTINEO, PORT VELL
On the way, just before the lining the Ramblas look like the
hospital and port, youll pass the forked tongue of a serpent.
Parc de la Barceloneta, a Departures are every fifteen
rather plain expanse enlivened minutes, though in summer and
only by its whimsical modernista at weekends you may have to
water tower (1905), rising like a wait for a while at the top of
minaret above the palms. the towers for a ride as the cars
only carry about twenty people
Trasbordador Aeri at a time.
Torre de Sant Sebasti, Barceloneta
t 933 321 164. Daily 10.45am7pm.
e7.50 one-way, e9 return. The Restaurants and
most thrilling ride in the city
centre is across the inner tapas bars
harbour on the cable car, which
sweeps over the water from the Antiga Casa Sol
foot of Barceloneta to Montjuc. C/Sant Carles 4 t 932 215 012.
The views are stunning, and you TuesSat 14pm & 811pm, Sun
can pick out with ease the 14pm. Founded in 1903, it was
familiar towers of La Seu and here that sarsuela (Catalan fish
Sagrada Famlia, while the trees stew) was invented. Since then,
MEN DEL DIA SIGN, BARCELONETA
the quiet, formal restaurant has
been dishing up market-fresh
fish and seafood, either in stews
or casseroles (suquets) or simply
grilled, sauted or mixed with
rice. Count on a good e40 a
head and reserve ahead for
dinner.
Can Manel
Pg. Joan de Borb 60 t 932 215 013.
Daily 14pm & 8pmmidnight. An
institution since 1870, which
fills very quickly, inside and out,
because the food is both good
and reasonably priced. Paella,
fideu (noodles with seafood)
and arrs a banda (rice with
seafood) are staples, while grilled
fish always costs more. A
Contents Places
79
weekday lunchtime men del dia Come for a gregarious lunch in
keeps the cost down, but theres this busy traditional tapas bar.
usually not much fish or seafood The seafood is straight from the
choice on this. market, and if you want the
house speciality ask for the

Can Mao bombas (spicy meatballs).
C/Baluard 12 t 933 193 082. MonFri
8am5.30pm & 8.3011pm, Sat dZi
8am5pm; closed Aug. Theres rarely Pg. Joan de Borb 76 t 932 212 182.
a tourist in sight in this old- Daily 14pm & 8pmmidnight. Its
fashioned locals diner. Fried or pronounced zhee, which is a
grilled fish is the thing here Tibetan sacred stone, but the
(sardines, mullet, calamari), lovely fresh-tasting food is
though there are some daily Southeast Asian, mainly
specials and basic meat dishes, Chinese, Malaysian and
rough house wine and Japanese, either served in the
absolutely no frills. Its an serene dining room or outside
authentic experience, which is on the shady terrassa.Yu-shian
likely to cost you less than e10 pork with aubergine or
a head. Formosa-style shrimps with
ginger are great bets, with
Can Ramonet green-tea ice cream amongst the
C/Maquinista 17 t 933 193 064. Daily desserts. About e25 a head,
10am4pm & 8pmmidnight; closed though you can eat for e10 or
Sun dinner & Aug. Reputedly the so at lunch.
oldest restaurant in the port
area, it has the added attraction ROY LICHTENSTEIN SCULPTURE
of a shady terrassa. Seafood meals

can turn out pricey (mains
e1520) but you can always
hunker down instead in the
rustic front bar, where the tapas
is piled high on wooden barrels
the pernil (cured ham) is a
house speciality.
Can Ros
C/Almirall Aixada 7 t 932 215 049.
Daily 15pm & 8pmmidnight; closed
Wed. This is one of the best
places to sample paella, arrs
negre (black rice, ie made with
cuttlefish ink) or a fideu
(noodles) with clams and
shrimp, all of which cost around
e10.The tables are packed in
close together, but its a
comfortable, no-hurry kind of
place.
Cova Fumada
C/Baluard 56 t 932 214 061. MonFri
9am3pm & 68pm, Sat 9am3pm.
Contents Places
80
or outside onto the
tiny street-corner
patio.
Port Vell and Barceloneta PLACES
Bars
Irish Winds
Maremgnum t 932 258
187. MonThurs & Sun
12.30pm4am, Fri & Sat
12.30pm5am. A pretty
good place to catch
Irish/Celtic folk, with
live music in the pub
around 11pm most
nights.
Luz de Gas
Moll del Diposit, in front of
Palau de Mar t 932 097
711, w www.luzdegas.com.
MarchOct daily noon3am.
Sip a chilled drink on
the polished deck of
the moored boat, and
soak up some great
marina and harbour
views. Queues form
on hot days, when
every parasol-shaded
seat is taken, but its
especially nice at dusk
BOARDWALK, PLATJA DE SANT SEBASTI
as the city lights begin
to twinkle.
Jai-Ca
C/Ginebra 13 t 932 683 265. Daily Mojito Bar
10am11pm. Scrutinize the tapas Maremgnum t 933 528 746. Daily
list on the wall or just check 5pm5am. Themed Caribbean
what your neighbours having playhouse, with tropical decor,
a bundle of navajas (razor cocktails and free daily salsa
clams), say, or some plump classes.The salsoteca packs them
anchovies. Meanwhile, the fryers in on Friday and Saturday
in the kitchen work overtime, nights, and theres live music
turning out crisp baby squid with the Cuban big band on
and little green peppers Sunday.
scattered with salt.Take your
haul to a tile-topped cane table,
Contents Places
81
El Raval
The old-town neighbourhood of El Raval, on the west
side of the Ramblas, was traditionally known as a red-
PLACES El Raval
light area. It still has some very seedy corners (particu-
larly south of Carrer de Sant Pau), though its changing
rapidly, notably in the upper Raval around Barcelonas
contemporary art museum, MACBA, from which ripple
out cutting-edge galleries, see-and-be-seen restau-
rants and fashionable bars. Historically, El Raval (from
the Arabic word for suburb) stood outside the medieval
city walls, housing hospitals, churches and monaster-
ies, and noxious trades like slaughterhouses (tallers,
hence the street name Carrer dels Tallers) that had no
place in the more refined Gothic quarter. Throughout
most of the twentieth century, the neighbourhood was
notorious for its sleazy Barri Xins (China Town),
though regeneration has cleaned up large parts of El
Raval, and now a younger, artier, more affluent popula-
tion rubs shoulders with the areas Asian and North
African immigrants and the older, traditional residents.
Metros Catalunya, Liceu, Drassanes and Paral.lel serve
the neighbourhood.
Museu dArt Contemporani collection represents the main

de Barcelona (MACBA) movements in art since 1945,
Pl. dels ngels 1 t 934 120 810, mainly (but not exclusively) in
w www.macba.es. JuneSept Mon & Catalunya and Spain, and is
WedFri 11am8pm, Sat 10am8pm, shown in rotating exhibitions,
Sun 10am3pm; rest of the year closes so, depending on when you
weekdays 7.30pm. e7, Wed e3, visit, you may catch works by
special exhibitions e4. Anchoring major names such as Joan Mir
the northern reaches of the or Antoni Tpies, or coincide
Raval is the Museu dArt
SKATEBOARDERS OUTSIDE MACBA
Contemporani de
Barcelona (MACBA),
whose main facade is
entirely constructed of
glass. Once inside, you
go from the ground
to the fourth floor up
a series of swooping
ramps, which afford
continuous views of
the square below
usually full of
careering
skateboarders.The
Contents Places
82
GRAN VIA DE LES CORTS CATALANES
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BARS AND CLUBS CAFS, TAPAS AND RESTAURANTS

Almirall 3 Jazz S Club 5 Muy nima 16 Granja M. Viader 15
Bar Ra 19 Kabara 22 Buenas 17 Biblioteca 23 Kasparo 4
Caf de les Llantiol 20 Paloma 1 Casa de la Mamacaf 9
Delcies 24 London Bar 27 Rioja 10 Pollo Rico 26
Confitera 25 Merry Ant 11 Elisabets 6 Sesamo 7
Dostrece 18 Moog 28 Fragua 21 Silenus 14
Fortuny 12 Muebles Navarro 13 Granja de Gav 2 Tres Tombs 8
with shows by contemporary books, and a caf around the

Catalan conceptual artists. back thats part of the CCCB
Probably the best way to (see p.83).
acquaint yourself with the
collection is to take the free Foment de les Artes
guided tour (Wed & Sat at 6pm, Dcoratives (FAD)
Sun and public hols at noon). Pl. dels ngels 56 t 934 437 520,
Theres also a good museum w www.fadweb.com. TuesFri
shop, selling everything from 11am8pm, Sun 11am4pm. Free.
designer espresso cups to art Part of the former Convent dels
Contents Places
83
ngels now houses the 11am8pm, Sun 11am7pm. Entry to
headquarters of the Foment de exhibitions e4/5.50. The citys
les Artes Dcoratives (FAD) a contemporary culture centre
decorative art and design (CCCB) hosts temporary art and
organization founded in 1903 city-related exhibitions as well as
PLACES El Raval
whose exhibition spaces supporting a cinema and a varied
(including the former convent concert programme.The
chapel) are dedicated to imaginatively restored building is
industrial and graphic design, a prime example of the
crafts, architecture, contemporary juxtaposition of old and new;
jewellery and fashion. Drop by to built as the Casa de la Caritat in
see the latest temporary 1714 on the site of a fourteenth-
exhibitions, or call in to frequent century Augustine convent, and
the spiffy bar and restaurant. added to in the late eighteenth
FAD also coordinates the annual and nineteenth centuries, it was
Tallers Oberts (or Open for hundreds of years an
Workshops; last weekend of infamous workhouse and lunatic
May and first weekend in June), asylum. In the entrance to the
when visitors can tour craft centre, in what is now called the
outlets in the Raval and Ribera. Plaa de les Dones, you can see
the old tile panels and facade in a
Centre de Cultura patio presided over by a small
Contempornia de Barcelona statue of Sant Jordi, patron saint
(CCCB) of Catalunya. At the back of the
C/Montalegre 5 t 933 064 100, building the caf (MonFri
w www.cccb.org. Mid-June to mid-Sept 9am7pm, Sat & Sun
TuesSat 11am 8pm, Sun 11am3pm; 11am6pm) makes the most of
mid-Sept to mid-June Tues, Thurs & Fri its terrassa on the modern square
11am2pm & 48pm, Wed & Sat joining the CCCB to the
MACBA.
SANT JORDI STATUE
Plaa Vicen Martorell

One of Barcelonas nicest traffic-
free squares lies just off the
Ramblas, a few minutes walk
from MACBA.There are not
many places in the old town
where children can play safely, so
the small playground here (with
swings and a slide) is all the more
welcome for local families.Whats
more, its overlooked by a first-
rate caf, the Kasparo (see p.87),
whose arcade tables are busy
from morning to night a real
find if youre looking for a break
from sightseeing. Meanwhile,
around the corner, the narrow
Carrer del Bonsuccs and
Carrer dels Tallers house a
concentrated selection of the
citys best independent music and
CD stores.
Contents Places
84
Hospital de la
Santa Creu
Entrances on c/del Carme
and c/de lHospital. Daily
10amdusk. Free. The
El Raval PLACES
districts most
substantial historic
relic is an attractive
complex of Gothic
buildings that was
founded as the citys
main hospital in
1402, a role it
maintained until
1930.The spacious
fifteenth-century
hospital wards were
subsequently
converted for
cultural and
educational use, and
now hold an artisanal DETAIL FROM HOTEL ESPAA
school and two libraries,
including the Catalan national character thats all its own,
library, the Biblioteca de dotted with kebab shops, halal
Catalunya.Visitors can wander butchers, telephone offices,
freely through the pleasant neighbourhood bars and grocery
medieval cloistered garden stores, as well as an increasing
(access from either street), while number of rather fashionable
just inside the c/del Carme cafs a popular target for locals
entrance (on the right) are some and tourists alike.
superb seventeenth-century Just off the top of the rambla
decorative tiles and a tucked off c/de lHospital the
Renaissance courtyard.The narrow Carrer de la Riera
hospitals former chapel, La Baixa is at the centre of the
Capella de lAntic Hospital citys second-hand/vintage
(TuesSat noon2pm & 48pm, clothing scene. A dozen funky
Sun 11am2pm; free), entered little independent clothes shops
separately from c/de lHospital, and music stores provide the
is an exhibition space featuring scope for an hours browsing.
a changing programme of works
by young Barcelona artists. Hotel Espaa
C/de Sant Pau 911 t 933 181 758,
Rambla de Raval w www.hotelespanya.com. Some of
The most obvious manifestation the most influential names in
of the changing character of El Catalan modernista architecture
Raval is the palm-lined and design came together at the
boulevard that has been gouged turn of the twentieth century to
through the former tenements transform the dowdy Espaa
and alleys, providing a huge new hotel (originally built in 1860)
pedestrianized area between into one of the citys most lavish
c/de lHospital and c/de Sant addresses.With a tiled dining
Pau.The rambla has a distinct room designed by Domnech i
Contents Places
85
Montaner, a bar with an all shaped, carved and twisted in
amazing marble fireplace by an elaborate style that was to
Eusebi Arnau, and a ballroom become the hallmark of Gauds
whose marine murals were later works, while the roof terrace
executed by Ramon Casas, the culminates in a fantastical series
PLACES El Raval
hotel was the fashionable of chimneys decorated with
sensation of its day. Its been well swirling patterns made from
looked after ever since, and you fragments of glazed tile, glass and
can have a good nosy around for earthenware. Unfortunately,
the price of lunch or even stay guided tours of the building have
here overnight though the been suspended whil rrenovation
guest rooms are nowhere near as work is carried out, and Palau
impressive as the public areas. Gell is not expected to be open
to the public until late 2006
Palau Gell
C/Nou de la Rambla 35 t 933 173 Esglsia de Sant Pau del
974. El Ravals outstanding Camp
building is the Palau Gell C/de Sant Pau 101 t 934 410 001.
(188690), an extraordinary MonFri 4.308pm, Sat 10am2pm,
townhouse designed by the Sun Mass at 10.30am & 12.30pm. e1.
young Antoni Gaud for wealthy The name of the church of Sant
industrialist Eusebi Gell i Pau del Camp (St Paul of the
Bacigalupi.At a time when Field) is a graphic reminder that
architects sought to conceal the it once stood in open fields
iron supports within buildings, beyond the city walls.The oldest
Gaud turned them to his and one of the most interesting
advantage, displaying them as churches in Barcelona, Sant Pau
decorative features in the grand was a Benedictine foundation of
rooms on the main floor, which the tenth century, built after its
are lined with dark marble hewn predecessor was destroyed in a
from the Gell family quarries. Muslim raid of 985 AD, and
Columns, arches and ceilings are constructed on a Greek cross
EGLSIA DE SANT PAU DEL CAMP
plan. Above the main entrance
are curious, primitive
thirteenth-century
carvings of fish, birds and
faces, while other animal
forms adorn the double
capitals of the charming
twelfth-century cloister.
Inside, the church is dark
and rather plain, enlivened
only by tiny arrow-slit
windows and small
stained-glass circles high
up in the central dome.
Mercat de Sant Antoni

C/del Comte dUrgell 1 t 934
234 287. MonThurs & Sat
7am2.30pm & 5.308.30pm,
Fri 7am8.30pm. The
neighbourhoods major
Contents Places
86
produce market makes a nice El Indio
contrast to the Boqueria there C/del Carme 24 t 933 175 442. The
are not nearly so many tourists most traditional place in town
for a start and, unlike many of to buy linen, pillows, blankets,
the other city markets, its sheets and tablecloths the
El Raval PLACES
surrounded by enclosed aisles modernista facade, long cutting

packed with stalls selling cheap counters, wood panels and
shoes, underwear, marble floor survive from its
T-shirts, childrens clothes, bed nineteenth-century glory days.
linen, towels and other household
goods. Come on Sunday and Lailo
theres a book and coin market C/de la Riera Baixa 20 t 934 413 749.
(9am2pm) instead, with Second-hand and vintage
collectors and enthusiasts getting clothes shop with a massively
here early to pick through the wide-ranging stock.
best bargains, from old paperbacks
to commemorative coins.The Ras
traditional place to take a break C/Dr Joaquim Dou 10 t 934 127 199,
from market shopping is Els Tres w www.actar.es. Opens 1pm, closed
Tombs, the restaurant-bar across Mon. Specializes in books and
the road (see p.89). magazines on graphic design,
architecture and photography.
Temporary exhibitions at the
Shops back are always worth a look.
Cerera Mas Recicle Recicle

C/del Carme 5 t 933 470 138. C/de la Riera Baixa 13 t 934 431 815.
Candles in every conceivable Second-hand and vintage
shape, design, size and colour. fashion, from the 1950s
onwards, with a rapid turnover.
Discos Castell
C/del Tallers 3 t 933 182 041; no.7
t 933 025 946; and no.79 t 933 013 Cafs
575; w www.discoscastello.es. Large
music selection, with separate Granja de Gav
stores for classical recordings C/Joaquim Costa 37 t 933 175 883.
(no.3) and jazz and 70s pop-rock MonFri 8am1am, Sat 8am2.30am.
(no.79). No.7 is also a good Traditionally tiled caf with arty
place to buy concert tickets. airs witness the daubs on the
walls, the 3m-high woman on
Forvm Ferlandina the bar and the Wednesday-
C/Ferlandina 31 t 934 418 018, night poetry readings.
w www.forvmferlandina.com. Closed Sandwiches, shakes, juices,
Sat pm, Mon & all Aug. Inventive, crepes and salads served to an
contemporary jewellery using a intellectual crowd.
variety of design mediums.
Granja M. Viader
Gimnez & Zuazo C/Xucl 46 t 933 183 486. Mon
C/Elisabets 20 t 934 123 381, 58.45pm, TuesSat 9am1.45pm &
w www.gimenezzuazo.com. Two 58.45pm. The oldest granja (milk
collections a year of cutting- bar) in town, inventor of
edge womens fashion, funky Cacaolat (a popular chocolate
and informal. drink), but you could also try
Contents Places
87
mel i mat (curd cheese and 14pm & 9pmmidnight. Funky
honey), llet Mallorquina (fresh joint attracting a young crowd,
milk with cinnamon and lemon who come for the seasonally
rind) or a thick hot chocolate influenced fusion cooking
topped with fresh cream. A courgette flowers and mussels
PLACES El Raval
popular breakfast stop. tempura followed by monkfish
with a garlic and pistachio crust
Kasparo are typical summer dishes, with
Pl. Vicen Martorell 4 t 933 022 072. most mains around e14. Its a
Daily 9am10pm, until midnight in nice place for lunch, especially if
summer; closed 2 weeks in Jan. Sited you can get a table outside.
in the arcaded corner of a quiet
square.Theres muesli, Greek Biblioteca
yoghurt and toast and jam for C/Junta del Comer 28 t 934 126 261.
early birds. Later, sandwiches, TuesSat 14pm & 9pmmidnight;
tapas and assorted platos del dia closed 2 weeks in Aug. One of the
(dishes of the day) are on offer more agreeable of Barcelonas
things like hummus and bread, current dining hot spots fish
vegetable quiche, couscous or might be cooked Japanese- or
pasta. Basque-style, clams paired with
cured ham, lamb given the local
treatment (with parsnip and
turnip), or venison pie served
with pure of the day. Meals cost
around e3540, though the e9
lunchtime men del dia provides
a more simple experience.
Reservations advised.
Casa de la Rioja
C/Peu de la Creu 810 t 934 433 363.
MonSat 14pm & 811pm; bar open
from 9am and after 11pm. The
Riojan Centres contemporary-
styled restaurant introduces
Barcelona to the regional food
of La Rioja, like empedrado (a
potato, pork, pimiento and
onion broth) or grilled jurel (a
white fish) smothered in
anchovy paste.The lunchtime
men del dia (e9.50) is an
absolute steal, or the bar is open
beyond meal times (and late) for
SECOND-HAND CLOTHES STORE, C/DE LA
RIERA BAIXA excellent tapas.
Elisabets
Restaurants and C/dElisabets 2 t 933 175 826. MonFri
8ammidnight, Sat 8am2am; closed
tapas bars Aug. Reliable Catalan home
cooking at cramped tables in the
nima brick-walled rear dining room
C/dels ngels 6 t 933 424 912. Daily (meals 14pm & 9pmmidnight),
Contents Places
88
or tapas and drinks at the bar. 9pmmidnight) it operates as a
The hearty e8 lunch is hard to caf.
beat, and there are set dinners
and all-in tapas meals too. Pollo Rico
C/de Sant Pau 31 t 934 413 184. Daily
El Raval PLACES
Fragua 10ammidnight. Barcelonas

Rambla del Raval 15 t 934 428 097. original greasy spoon has been
TuesSun 14pm & 8pm1am. Classic here forever and, while its not
old bodega with the smell of to everyones taste, if youre in
wood smoke in the air.Tables on the mood for good spit-roast
the rambla are at a premium, chicken, limp fries and a glass of
though this is a cosy winters day rot-gut wine, served quick-smart
kind of place, too. Food is at the bar, this is the place.The
standard Catalan lots of upstairs dining room is a tad
chargrilling (vegetables as well as more sophisticated (only a tad)
meat and fish), tapas and a short either way, youll be hard pushed
vegetarian menu and the prices to spend e10 from a long menu
are low, even discounting the e7 of Spanish/Catalan staples.
men del dia (e10 at night).
Sesamo
Mamacaf C/Sant Antoni Abat 52 t 934 416 411.
C/del Dr Joaquim Dou 10 t 933 012 Mon & WedSat 1pm1am, Sun
940. MonSat 1pm1am; open 7pm1am. Innovative yet
evenings only in Aug. It looks like a inexpensive vegetarian cooking
spruced-up boiler room but the that will please the most
modern Catalan food (healthy discerning palate.The recipe:
and creative) is pretty good and fresh, organic ingredients and
the atmosphere laid-back. Mains influences from all over the
cover everything from a house globe. Meals are served 1pm to
hamburger to salmon with 3.30pm and 9pm till 11.30pm,
Indonesian-style rice.Theres a with an e8 set lunch or a la carte
good value men del dia, while dinner for under e20 drop in
outside meal times (14pm & for a drink at other times.
SILENUS RESTAURANT
Contents Places
89
Silenus place to kick off a nights bar-
C/dels ngels 8 t 933 022 680. Mon hopping.
14pm, TuesSat 14pm &
8.3011.30pm. Very arty place near Bar Ra
MACBA presenting some unique Pl. de la Gardua 3 t 933 014 163,
PLACES El Raval
dishes squid with broad beans w www.ratown.com. MonSat
and foie gras, for example, or 9am2am. Extremely hip bar
even fillets of that well-known behind the Boqueria market,
Catalan marsupial, the kangaroo. with a groove-ridden music
The interior is very Barcelona policy and a sunny patio. Its not
distressed walls, leather just for drinks breakfasts are
banquettes, white tablecloths laid out of the ordinary, and theres
on marble tables. If you come for eclectic world cuisine for lunch
lunch you can eat from the men and dinner.
del dia for around e10; otherwise,
dinner costs at least e30. Caf de les Delcies
Rambla de Raval 47 t 934 415 714.
Daily 6pm2am. Typical of the
neighbourhood, this dolls house
of a bar attracts an arty crowd,
who relax amid shelves of books
and temporary exhibitions.
Confitera
C/de Sant Pau 128 t 934 430 458.
Daily 7pm3am. This modernista
bakery and sweet shop carved
ELS TRES TOMBS wood bar, faded tile floor, murals,
antique chandeliers is now a
Els Tres Tombs popular meeting point, with a
Ronda Sant Antoni 2 t 934 434 111. friendly, relaxed atmosphere.
Daily 6am2am. Occupying a wide
corner opposite the Mercat de Fortuny
Sant Antoni, this gregarious bar- C/Pintor Fortuny 31 t 933 179 892.
cum-restaurant barely closes, TuesSun 7pm1.30am; closed 1 week
welcoming a good-natured mix in Aug. Step back to the 1970s in
of market traders, locals, students this easygoing retro bar, where
and tourists.The foods good theres always time to sit and
(theres a big selection of tapas), chat. A few tables are set aside
or you can just pull up a chair for diners, who can chow down
on the terrassa and soak up the on light Mediterranean dishes.
street scenes.
Kabara
C/Junta de Comer 20 t 626 774 405.
Bars TuesFri 14pm & 8pm2am, Sat & Sun
8pm3am; closed Aug. Blood-red
Almirall arts scene bar and multicultural
C/de Joaquin Costa 33 t 933 189 space, with odds-and-ends
917. Daily 7pm3am. Dating from furniture, gigs most nights
1860, Barcelonas oldest bar (singers, open-mike sessions,
check out the modernista reggae bands) and a chilled-out
counter is a venerated leftist atmosphere. Cheap food too,
hangout, not to mention a great including a popular fondue.
Contents Places
90
London Bar
C/Nou de la Rambla 34 t 933 185 Clubs
261, w www.londonbarbcn.com. Daily
7.30pm4.30am; closed 2 weeks in Dostrece
Aug. Opened in 1910, this well- C/del Carme 40 t 933 017 306,
El Raval PLACES
known modernista hangout w www.dostrece.net. Daily

attracts a mostly tourist clientele 11.30pm4am. Small club under a
these days, but its still worth stylish upper Raval bar-
looking in at least once. It puts restaurant where local musicians
on jazz, swing, blues or tango and DJs take care of the
gigs most nights, the music ambience. Every night is
starting at 12.30am. different, though the crowd is
always young and cool.
Merry Ant
C/Peu de la Creu 23 t 626 787 126. Jazz S Club
Tues, Wed & Sun 7pm12.30am, C/Requesens 2 t 933 290 020,
ThursSat 9pm2am. Virtually w www.tallerdemusics.com. Every
unmarked brown barn doors night from 9pm in this small
open onto a DIY bodgers club theres different music:
delight bar, seats and tables inexpensive rock, blues and jam
have all been fashioned from sessions, plus jazz, son cubano and
cannibalized furniture and flamenco.
assorted junk-shop debris. Its all
a bit studied, and fiendishly Llantiol
cool, but La Hormiga Feliz (the C/Riereta 7 t 933 299 009, w www
sign you might see on the door) .llantiol.com. Closed Mon. Idiosyncratic
has a certain eccentric charm. cabaret club featuring mime,
song, clowns, magic and dance.
Muebles Navarro Shows (e912) normally begin at
C/Riera Alta 46 t 607 188 096. 9pm and 11pm (12.30am on Fri
TuesThurs & Sun 6pmmidnight, Fri & & Sat).
Sat 6pm3am; closed 2 weeks in Aug.
Relax in one of the various Moog
rooms of a converted furniture C/Arc del Teatre 3 t 933 017 282,
store, hence the bars name, w www.masimas.com. Daily
Navarro Furniture. A friendly 11.30pm5am. Influential club
place to have a drink, it also playing techno, electro, drum n
does tasty sandwiches and bass, house, funk and soul to a
excellent cheesecake. cool, but up-for-it crowd.
Muy Buenas La Paloma

C/del Carme 63 t 934 425 053. C/Tigre 27 t 933 016 897. ThursSat
TuesSat 9am3am. The Ravals 6pm5am. Fabulous modernista
nicest watering hole, with a hip, ballroom where old and young
eager-to-please staff making alike are put through their rumba
things go with a swing. A long and cha-cha-cha steps from 6pm
marble trough does duty as the to 9.30pm.Then, after 11.30pm,
bar, and the beers pulled from DJs take their positions. Mainly
antique beer taps. electro and other current beats,
though Saturdays 1980s night is a
blast and theres a once-a-month
punk party.
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91
La Ribera and Sant Pere

The traditional highlights of the old artisans quarter of
La Ribera are the graceful church of Santa Mara del
PLACES La Ribera and Sant Pere

Mar and the Museu Picasso, the latter Barcelonas
biggest single tourist attraction. More recently, the
neighbourhood has also become the location of choice
for designers and craftspeople, whose boutiques and
workshops lend it an air of creativity. Art galleries and
applied art museums occupy the medieval mansions of
Carrer de Montcada the neighbourhoods most hand-
some street while the barri is at its most hip in the
area around the Passeig del Born, whose cafs, restau-
rants and bars make it one of the citys premier
nightlife centres. To the north, across Carrer de la
Princesa, medieval Sant Pere is in the throes of devel-
opment around its revamped market, though its the
neighbourhoods one remarkable building, the mod-
ernista Palau de la Msica Catalana, that really war-
rants the diversion. For this, the nearest metro station
is Urquinaona, while for everything else in La Ribera
you can start from Metro Jaume I.
Palau de la Msica Catalana contemporary critics claimed to

C/Sant Pere Ms Alt t932 957 200, be an engineering impossibility.
wwww.palaumusica.org. Box office open Visitor numbers on the guided
MonSat 10am9pm. Guided tours daily tours are limited and youll have
10am3.30pm, in English on the hour. to book in advance, either in
e7. Modernista architect
Domnech i Montaners MUSEU DE LA XOCOLATA
stupendous concert hall

doesnt seem to have
enough breathing space in
the tiny street it faces.
Built in 1908, the bare
brick structure is
smothered in tiles and
mosaics, with the highly
elaborate facade resting on
three great columns, like
elephants legs.The
dramatic tiled lobby
provides a taster of the
stunning interior, which
incorporates a bulbous
stained-glass skylight
capping the second-storey
auditorium which
Contents Places
92
RON
CAFS, TAPAS AND
CA DA
RESTAURANTS
DE
CARRER DE ORTIGOSA CARRER DE TRAFALGAR TRA RRER D SAN
FALG E Arrel del Born TP 8
Palau de la AR ERE
Bar Salvador 21
Msica Catalana Caf del Born 17
PLAA
DU LLUIS CARRER DE SANT PERE Sant Pere de Can Paixano 25
MILLET S AN T P E R E MES
ALT les Puelles Casa Delfin 16
DEL BOU DE
DARGENTER
SANT PERE
CARRER DE
CARRER DE MARE
DE DU DEL PILAR
CARRER
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La Ribera and Sant Pere PLACES
LA VICTORIA
Comer 24 1
CARRER DE
L E S B E AT E S
CARRER DE
VIA LAIETAN A
LEconmic 2
PLAA DE
SANT PERE Espai Sucre 5
CARRER DE SANT PERE MITJA
Mar de la Ribera 14
MONEC
CARRER DE
LES ARENES DE L Mosquito 3
SANT PERE COMTA
CARRER
DEL RE
C Rosal 12
LES BASSES DE
DE SANT PERE MES BAIX
DE
CARRER DE
SANT PERE
CARRER
LES BEATES
CARRER DE
Salero 22
CARRER DELS Santa Maria 4
MESTRES CASALS
CARRER DELS
Senyor Parellada 6
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person or by phone at the box performances by the Orfeo Catal

office, or by calling at the nearby choral group and the Barcelona
gift shop, Les Muses del Palau, city orchestra, among others.
c/Sant Pere Mes Alt 1 (daily
9.30am3pm).The concert season Esglsia de Sant Pere de les
here (not all classical) runs from Puelles
October to June and includes Pl. de Sant Pere t 932 680 742.
Contents Places
93

PICASSO T-SHIRTS
MonSat 8.45am1pm & 57.30pm, Museu de la Xocolata

Sun 10am2pm. Sant Peres focal C/del Comer 36 t 932 687 878,
square is named, like the w www.museudelaxocolata.com. Mon
neighbourhood itself, for its & WedSat 10am7pm, Sun
monastic church, whose high 10am3pm. e3.80. Not many
walls and Gothic portal tower cities can boast a museum
above the paved squares cast- dedicated entirely to chocolate.
iron drinking fountain.The Barcelonas is housed in the
church was rebuilt in 1147 on former Convent de Sant Agusti,
even older foundations, but has whose thirteenth-century
been restored inside over the cloister, rediscovered when the
centuries almost beyond building was renovated, can still
interest. However, the three be viewed.The museum itself
medieval streets that converge at recounts the history of
the church, carrers de Sant Pere chocolate, from its origins as a
Ms Alt (upper), Mitja (middle) sacred and medicinal product of
and Baix (lower), contain the prehistoric Central America
bulk of the districts finest through to its introduction to
buildings and the nicest shops Europe as a confection in the
a mixture of small boutiques sixteenth century. As you might
and old family businesses. expect, the museum caf serves
a fine cup of hot chocolate
Mercat Santa Caterina and the choccie counter is
Avgda. Francesc Camb 16 t 933 195 something to behold too
740, w www.mercatsantacaterina.net. while at the adjacent Escola de
Work continues to spruce up the Patisseria, glass windows allow
streets and squares around the you to look onto the students
mid-nineteenth-century Mercat learning their craft in the
Santa Caterina (also currently kitchens.
under restoration).The discovery
of the foundations of a major Museu Picasso
medieval convent held up the C/de Montcada 1523 t 933 196 310,
markets renovation for a while, w www.museupicasso.bcn.es.
but its expected to be open TuesSat & hols 10am8pm, Sun
again to the public during 2005. 10am3pm. e5, first Sun of the month
Contents Places
94
free. Despite containing none of until 1972, with the top floor
his best-known works, incorporating various studies of
Barcelonas Picasso Museum Jacqueline, his wife.
provides a unique opportunity A caf with a terrassa in one of
to trace the artists development the courtyards offers
from his paintings as a young refreshments, and there is of

boy to the mature works of later course a shop, stuffed full of
years.The early drawings, Picasso-related gifts.
particularly, are fascinating, in
which Picasso still signing Museu Textil i
with his full name, Pablo Ruiz dIndumentaria
Picasso attempted to copy the C/de Montcada 1214 t 933 104 516,
nature paintings in which his w www.museutextil.bcn.es. TuesSat
father specialized. Some works 10am6pm, Sun 10am3pm. e3.50,
in the style of Toulouse-Lautrec, first Sun of the month free; ticket also
like the menu Picasso did for valid for Pedralbes museums, see
Els Quatre Gats tavern in 1900, p.153. The fourteenth-century
reflect his interest in Parisian Palau de Lli contains the
art; while other selected works extensive collections of the citys
are from the famous Blue Textiles and Clothing Museum.
Period (190104) and Pink Selected items, from late
Period (190406), and from his Roman fabrics to 1930s cocktail
Cubist (190720) and dresses, all beautifully presented,
Neoclassical (192025) stages. demonstrate the art and
The large gaps in the main technique behind cloth-making,
collection only underline embroidery, lace and tapestry
Picassos extraordinary changes work.The upper floor
of style and mood, best concentrates on Spanish and
illustrated by the large jump to Catalan designers of the 1970s
1957, a year represented by his to 1990s, with a room devoted
fifty-odd interpretations of to Pedro Rodrguez
Velzquezs masterpiece Las (18951990), the first haut
Meninas.The museums minor couture designer to establish a
works sketches, drawings and studio in Barcelona. Special
prints cover in detail most exhibitions at the museum are
phases of the artists career up well regarded (for which theres
Picasso in Barcelona
Although born in Mlaga, Pablo Picasso (18811973) spent much of his youth
from the age of 14 to 23 in Barcelona. The time Picasso spent here encompassed
the whole of his Blue Period (190104) and provided many of the formative influ-
ences on his art. Not far from the Museu Picasso you can still see many of the build-
ings in which Picasso lived and worked, notably the Escola de Belles Arts de Llotja
(c/Consolat del Mar, near Estaci de Frana), where his father taught drawing and
where Picasso himself absorbed an academic training. The apartments where the
family lived when they first arrived in Barcelona Pg. dIsabel II 4 and c/Reina
Cristina 3, both near the Escola can also be seen, though only from the outside,
while Picassos first real studio (in 1896) was located over on c/de la Plata at no.4.
A few years later, many of his Blue Period works were finished at a studio at c/del
Comer 28. His first public exhibition was in 1901 at Els Quatre Gats tavern
(c/Montsi 3, Barri Gtic; wwww.4gats.com); you can still have a meal there today.
Contents Places
95
Esglsia de
Santa Mara
del Mar
Pl. de Santa Maria
1, at Pg. del Born

t 933 102 390.
Daily 9am
1.30pm &
4.308pm; Sun
choral Mass at
1pm. The
church was
begun on the
order of King
Jaume II in
1324, and
finished in
only five years.
Built on what
was the
MUSEU TEXTIL I DINDUMENTARIA
seashore in the
fourteenth century, Santa Mara
usually a separate charge), while was at the heart of the medieval
the courtyard Textil Caf (see citys maritime and trading
p.97) is one of the nicest in the district (c/Argentera, named
old town. In the associated shop, after the silversmiths who
funky jewellery, silk ties, candles, worked there, still runs from the
kitchen aprons, bags and other church square to the city walls
design-led gifts and trinkets of the Barri Gtic), and it came
abound. to embody the commercial
supremacy of the Crown of
Museu Barbier-Mueller Aragon (of which Barcelona was
C/de Montcada 14 t 933 104 516. capital). Its an exquisite example
TuesSat 10am6pm, Sun 10am3pm. of Catalan-Gothic architecture,
e3, first Sun of the month free. A with a wide nave and high,
fascinating collection of Pre- narrow aisles, and for all its
Columbian art is housed in the restrained exterior decoration is
renovated sixteenth-century still much dearer to the heart of
Palau Nadal, next door to the the average local than the
Textiles and Clothing Museum. cathedral, the only other church
The collection contains some in the city with which it
beautiful pieces of sculpture, compares.The Baroque
pottery, jewellery and textiles trappings were destroyed during
from early Mesoamerican the Civil War, which is probably
cultures from Mexico to Peru. all to the good since the long-
Afterwards, have a browse in the term restoration work has
museum shop, which has a wide concentrated on showing off the
range of ethnic artefacts, from simple spaces of the interior; the
wall hangings and jewellery to stained glass, especially, is
terracotta pots and figurines. beautiful.
And if youre looking for a Behind the church is the
Panama hat, this is the place. square known as Fossar de les
Moreres, which marks the spot
Contents Places
96
cupola, is now
empty, but works
are underway to
refit it as a public
library. Boutiques
and craft workshops

hide in the narrow
medieval alleys on
either side of the
passeig carrers
Flassaders and
Vidreria, in
particular, are noted
for clothes, shoes,
jewellery and design
galleries. At night
the Born becomes
one of Barcelonas
biggest bar zones, as
spirited locals
frequent a panoply
of drinking haunts
from old-style
cocktail lounges to
thumping music
bars.
SANTA MARA DEL MAR
where, following the defeat of Shops

Barcelona on September 11,
1714, Catalan martyrs fighting Atalanta Manufactura
for independence against the Pg. del Born 10 t 932 683 702. Sells
King of Spain, Felipe V, were naturally dyed and painted silk
executed. A red steel scimitar and linen, including lovely
with an eternal flame scarves and wall hangings.
commemorates the fallen.
Casa Gispert
Passeig del Born C/Sombrerers 23 t 933 197 535,
Fronting the church of Santa w www.casagispert.com. Roasters of
Mara del Mar is the fashionable nuts, coffee and spices for over
Passeig del Born, once the site of 150 years a truly delectable
medieval fairs and tournaments store with some tantalizing
and now an avenue lined with a smells.
parade of plane trees shading a
host of classy bars and shops. Cuca Fera
Cafs at the eastern end put out C/Cremat Gran 9 t 932 683 710.
tables in front of the old Mercat Closed Mon am. Original childrens
del Born (187376), once the clothing, from snazzy T-shirts to
biggest of Barcelonas matching outfits.
nineteenth-century city market
halls.The massive rectangular Custo Barcelona
steel and iron construction, Pl. de les Olles 7 t 932 687 893,
topped with a perky little w www.custo-barcelona.com. Where
Contents Places
97
the stars get their T-shirts. w www.vitra.com. Home and
Hugely colourful (and highly workplace furniture specialist,
priced) designer Ts, tops and with stunning chairs by the likes
sweaters for men and women. of Frank O. Gehry, Philippe
Also at c/de Ferran 36 in the Starck, Charles and Ray Eames,

Barri Gtic. and Ron Arad.
Czar
Pg. del Born 20 t 933 107 222. A Cafs
galaxy of running shoes, pumps,
bowling shoes and baseball Caf del Born
boots if your Starsky and Pl. Comercial 10 t 932 683 272.
Hutch Adidas SL76s have worn MonThurs & Sun 9am1am, Fri & Sat
out, theyll sell you another pair. 9am3.30am. No gimmicks, no
dodgy art and no fusion food
Daaz just a successful neighbourhood
C/Flassaders 2729 t 933 194 976. caf-bar with wooden floors,
Pascal Frot designs furniture and high ceiling and a simple
lamps and is also responsible for Mediterranean menu. Sunday
the interior of various shops in brunch is popular.
Barcelona (including the very
glam shoe shop opposite). Rosal
Temporary exhibitions are held Pg. del Born 27; no phone. Daily
in his design gallery. 9am2am. The terrassa at the end
of the Born gets the sun all day,
Kitsch making it a popular meeting
Pl. de Montcada 10 t 933 195 768. place, though its also packed on
Known for its papier-mch summer nights.
models matadors, flamenco
dancers, pierrots and other Textil Caf
characters which are all C/de Montcada 1214 t 932 682 598.
unique. Also handmade paper TuesSun 10ammidnight. Set inside
fans. the shady, cobbled medieval
courtyard of the Textile and
Orgens 99.9% Clothing Museum, this serves
C/Vidrieria 68 t 933 107 531. An hummus, tzatziki, quiche, salads,
old stone arch divides the chilli, lasagne and big
building, one side a deli-shop sandwiches all day or theres a
for wine, gourmet items and e9.20 men del dia.
provisions, the other a tavern-
bar for tasting typical Catalan
dishes. Restaurants and
Rafa Teja Atelier tapas bars
C/Santa Maria 18 t 932 377 059. A
browsers delight for gorgeous Arrel del Born
silk scarves, mohair wraps and C/Fusina 5 t 933 199 299,
Chinese-style silk jackets and w www.arreldelborn.com. MonSat
dresses. 14pm & 8.30pmmidnight, Sun
14pm. Lovely, light-filled
Vitra restaurant with a warehouse-style
Pl. Comercial 5 t 932 687 219, interior. Fish is the speciality
Contents Places
98
here, hand-
caught by the
owners uncle,
and if theres a
rice dish on the
menu choose it
its always
fantastic. Meals
can easily top
e40, though a
men del dia for
around half this
offers a cheaper
way to enjoy
the assured
cooking.
Dinner
reservations
advised.
Bar Salvador
C/dels Canvis Nous
8 t 933 101 041.
MonFri 9am5pm.
Fillets of fish in
egg batter,
grilled steak
with potato
wedges, huge
plates of
PASSEIG DEL BORN
escalivada (grilled aubergine,
pepper and onion), or botifarra fizz, tapas and sandwiches, and
(sausage) with haricot beans are thats your lot.
examples from a changing menu
of half a dozen starters and mains Casa Delfin
and a few classic puds. Everything Pg. del Born 36 t 933 195 088.
costs around e5, which is why MonSat 8am5pm; closed Aug. Old-
tables are packed at lunch, but school paper-tablecloth
you shouldnt have to wait long. bar-restaurant that offers a cheap
and cheerful men del dia up
Can Paixano to ten fish and ten meat choices,
C/Reina Cristina 7 t 933 100 839. from grills to stews, topped off
MonSat 9am10.30pm. Unmarked by home-made desserts or fruit.
stand-up bar (next to Bazar Add a coffee and the whole
Internacional) where the only blowout shouldnt top e12.
drink is champagne. Dont go
thinking sophistication it Comer 24
might come in traditional C/Comer 24 t 933 192 102,
champagne saucers (the sort of w www.carlesabellan.com. TuesSat
thing Dean Martin used to stack 1.303.30pm & 8.30pm12.30am;
in a pyramid and then pour closed 2 weeks in Aug. Chef Carles
wine over), but this is a Abellan presents glocal cooking
counter-only joint where theres (ie global + local), dishes from
Contents Places
99
across the world, interpreted just dessert inspired creations
locally by a master of invention. by Jordi Butrn, who assembles
In an oh-so-cool interior, the flavours and textures with the
meal comes tapas-style, mixing skill of a magician.Theres a
flavours and textures with three-course (e21) or five-

seeming abandon but to course (e32) seasonally changing
calculated effect (foie gras and pudding menu, with a small
truffle hamburger, shot glasses of selection of savoury mains to
frothy soup, tuna sashimi on pad out the experience.
pizza). Prices are high (around
e60 a head), but this is as good Mar de la Ribera
as contemporary dining in the C/Sombrerers 7 t 933 151 336. Mon
city gets. Reservations advised. 811.30pm, TuesSat 14pm &
811.30pm. A cosy little place
LEconmic serving the best Galician-style
Pl. de Sant Agusti Vell 13 t 933 196 seafood at prices (e510) that
494. MonFri 12.304.30pm; closed encourage large, leisurely meals.
Aug. The beautifully tiled dining Try the mixed fried fish and
room dates back to 1932, and paella, or any of the simple
makes the perfect surroundings steaks and fillets hake, salmon,
for a hearty lunch, served up, as tuna, sole, calamari dressed
the name implies, for a very with oil, garlic and chopped
reasonable price around e9 parsley, accompanied by platters
for a three-course meal and of tasty grilled vegetables.
wine.You may have to wait
under the arches outside for a Mosquito
table to become available. C/dels Carders 46 t 932 687 569.
TuesThurs & Sun 5pm1am, Fri & Sat
Espai Sucre 5pm2.30am. Delicious pan-Asian
C/de la Princesa 53 t 932 681 630, tapas, including Balinese chicken
w www.espaisucre.com. TuesSat wings,Thai noodles and crispy
9pmmidnight; closed Aug. The spinach pakoras. Add friendly
Sugar Space takes the current service, Fair Trade coffee, world
fad for food deconstruction off at music and very reasonable prices
a tangent by serving pretty much for a winning combination.
MERCAT DEL BORN
Contents Places
100
Salero Senyor Parellada
C/Rec 60 t 933 198 022. MonFri C/Argenteria 37 t 933 105 094. Daily
14pm & 9pmmidnight, Sat 14pm & 8.30pmmidnight. Utterly
9pmmidnight; closed 2 weeks in Aug. gorgeous renovation of an
Mediterranean cuisine with eighteenth-century building has
subtle Asian touches, presenting kept the arcaded interior and

delights like an aubergine curry splashed the walls yellow. Food
with coconut or a mee goreng is Catalan through and through
(fried noodle) of the day, with cuttlefish and cod, home-style
most dishes costing e810. Its a cabbage rolls, duck with figs, a
crisp, modern space if white is papillote of beans with herbs
your colour, youll enjoy the served from a long menu that
experience. Its also open from doesnt bother dividing starters
9am Monday to Friday for cakes from mains. Most dishes cost
and sandwiches. Dinner between e6 and e12, while
reservations advised. more than a dozen puds await
those who struggle through.
Santa Maria
C/Comer 17 t 933 151 227, Set Portes
w www.santamania.biz. TuesSat Pg. dIsabel II 14 t 933 192 950 or
1.303.30pm & 8.30pm12.30am. 933 193 033. Daily 1pm1am. The
Paco Guzmns new wave tapas decor in the wood-panelled
bar has a glass-fronted kitchen Seven Doors has barely
turning out taste sensations changed in 150 years and, while
like Catalan sushi, octopus very elegant, its not exclusive.
confit, yucca chips, or quail with The rice dishes are famed and
salsa. Under e40 a head should are fairly reasonably priced
see you right, finishing on a (e1116), but for a full seafood
high note with the famous meal youre looking at around
Dracula for dessert a shot e40 a head.
glass of strawberry and vanilla
cream flavours that sets off Xampanayet
crackles in your head. C/de Montcada 22 t 933 197 003.
ARTISTS SHOP
TuesSat noon4pm & 6.3011pm,
Sun noon4pm; closed Aug.
Traditional blue-tiled bar doing
a roaring trade in sparkling cava
and cider. Salted anchovies are
the house speciality, but theres
also marinaded tuna, spicy
mussels, sliced meats and cheese.
As is often the way, the drinks
are cheap and the tapas turn out
to be rather pricey, but theres
always a buzz about the place.
Bars
Berimbau
Pg. del Born 17 t 933 195 378. Daily
6pm2.30am. The oldest Brazilian
bar in town, still a great place
Contents Places
101
feel (especially if you can hide
yourself away in the upper
room), while those in the know
come for the wide selection of
rums from around the world.

Rosa de Foc
C/del Rec 69 t 933 195 171,
w www.larosadefoc.com. Daily
6pm2.30am. Multicultural space
presenting exhibitions and live
music, plus book launches, poetry
readings and similar events.The
spacious bar is usually quiet
enough for a chat at least, early
on and there are sandwiches
and platters on the menu.
PALAU DALMASES
Vinya del Senyor
for authentic sounds and killer Pl. Santa Maria 5 t 933 103 379.
cocktails. MonThurs noon1am, Fri & Sat
noon2am, Sun noonmidnight.
Espai Barroc Nook-and-cranny wine bar
Palau Dalmases, c/de Montcada 20 with tables right outside the
t 933 100 673. TuesSat 8pm2am, lovely church of Santa Mara del
Sun 610pm. One of a series of Mar.The wine list runs to novel
handsome mansions along c/de length a score of them
Montcada, Palau Dalmases is available by the glass with
open in the evenings as a rather oysters, smoked salmon and the
grand bar, which could double like to wash it all down.
as a Peter Greenaway film set.
You can sip champagne or
cognac in the refined Clubs
surroundings or, once a week,
enjoy live Baroque and chamber Astin
music (Thurs at 11pm; e18, C/Abaixadors 9 t 933 010 090,
drink included). w www.nitsa.com/astin. ThursSat
10pm3am. Thumping bar-club
Fianna for cutting-edge pop, house,
C/Banys Vells 19 t 933 151 810. techno and other beats. Live
MonSat 7pm2am, Sun 11am8pm. bands and guest DJs feature
Flickering candelabras, parchment regularly theres no point
lampshades, rough plaster walls going until after midnight.
and deep colours set the mood in
this stylish Gothic mansion Suborn
lounge-bar. Relax on cushions C/de Ribera 18 t 933 101 110.
for a drink, or book ahead to eat TuesSun 9.30pm3am. A tapas and
its a popular weekend dinner light meals place in the early
and Sunday brunch spot. evening (the terrassa overlooks
Parc de la Ciutadella), which
Mudanzas transforms itself into a club as
C/Vidrera 15 t 933 191 137. Daily the night wears on the guest
10am3am. Locals like the relaxed DJs spin just about everything.
Contents Places
102
Parc de la Ciutadella
For time out from the old towns historic intrigues and
labyrinthine alleys, retreat to the citys favourite green
Parc de la Ciutadella PLACES
space, Parc de la Ciutadella, on the eastern edge of La

Ribera. It holds a full set of attractions the Catalan
parliament building (not open to the public), plant hous-
es, museums and a zoo though on lazy summer days
theres little incentive to do any more than stroll the
shady garden paths and pilot rowboats across the
placid ornamental lake. The park dates from the demoli-
tion in 1869 of a Bourbon citadel, erected here in the
mid-eighteenth century after Barcelonas resistance
during the War of the Spanish Succession. Ciutadella
was subsequently chosen as the site of the 1888
Universal Exhibition from which period dates a series
of buildings and monuments by the citys pioneering
modernista architects. The parks main gates are on
Passeig de Picasso (a short walk from La Ribera), and
theres also an entrance on Passeig de Pujades (Metro
Arc de Triomf); for direct access to the zoo, use Metro
Ciutadella-Vila Olmpica.
Arc de Triomf scale, yet reinterpreted by its

Pg. Llus Companys. The giant brick modernista architect, Josep
arch at the northern end of Vilaseca i Casanovas, as a bold
Passeig Llus Companys statement of Catalan intent, its
announces the architectural studded with ceramic figures and
splendours to come in the motifs and topped by two pairs
Ciutadella park itself. Roman in of bulbous domes.The reliefs on
ARC DE TRIOMF
the main facade show the city of
Barcelona welcoming visitors to
the 1888 Universal Exhibition,
which was held in the park to
the south.
Cascada
Parc de la Ciutadella. Park open daily
8amdusk. Perhaps the most
notable of the parks structures is
the monumental fountain in the
northeast corner. It was
designed by Josep Fontser i
Mestrs, the architect chosen to
oversee the conversion of the
former citadel grounds into a
park, and he was assisted by the
young Antoni Gaud, then a
Contents Places
103
C
CARRER DE ALI-BEI
Estaci del Nord 0 200 m
ARC DE TRIOMF
M M C SANCHO
AV INGUDA DE V ILANOVA AV I L A
Arc de Triomf Parc de lEstacio Museu de
C A R R ER D E NA POLIS
del Nord Carrosses
PLACES Parc de la Ciutadella

PASSEIG LLUIS COMPANYS
PASSEIG LLUIS COMPANYS
Fnebres
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PG DE PICAS S O
Hivernacle
CA RRER DE JOAN DA U STRI A

CARRER DE LLULL
Museu de
Geologia
CARRER DE WELLINGTON
Parc
Umbracle Zoolgic CARRER DE R AMON TURRO
Parc de la
C AR RER DE R AMON TR IAS FAR GAS
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student: the Baroque 10am6.30pm. e3, first Sun of the

extravagance of the Cascadas month free. The citys zoological
statuary (notably its dragons) is museum presents a rather dry
suggestive of the flamboyant series of displays about Iberian
decoration that was later to fauna, though temporary
become Gauds trademark.The exhibitions occasionally spark
best place to contemplate the more interest.The building,
fountains tiers and swirls is from however, is a different matter
the small open-air caf just to altogether, worth the admission
the south. Here youll also find a fee alone a red-brick, castle-
lake, where for a few euros you like design by Domnech i
can rent a rowboat and paddle Montaner, intended for use as
about among the ducks. the Universal Exhibitions caf-
restaurant. Dubbed the Castell
Museu de Zoologia dels Tres Dragons, it became a
Pg. de Picasso t 933 196 912, centre for modernista arts and
w www.museuzoologia.bcn.es. Tues, crafts, and many of Domnechs
Wed & FriSun 10am2pm, Thurs contemporaries spent time here
Contents Places
104
on the geological bequest of
Francesc Martorell i Pea, who
gave his name to the citys
Geological Museum, which
opened in 1882. In many ways
Parc de la Ciutadella PLACES
its a period piece, with

nineteenth-century cases of
exhibits housed in a classical
pedimented building.There are
rocks and minerals on one side,
and fossils on the other, with
many of the exhibits found in
Catalunya, from fluorescent
rocks to mammoth bones.
Parc Zoolgic
C/de Wellington t 932 256 780,
MUSEU DE ZOOLOGICA w www.zoobarcelona.com. Daily:
MayAug 9.30am7.30pm; April &
experimenting with new Sept 10am7pm; March & Oct
materials and refining their 10am6pm; NovFeb 10am5pm.
techniques. e12.90. The city zoo takes up
most of the southeastern part of
Hivernacle and Umbracle the Parc de la Ciutadella. Its
Pg. de Picasso. Both open daily hugely popular with families, as
8amdusk. Free. The two unsung there are mini-train and pony
glories of Ciutadella are its plant rides, a petting zoo and daily
houses, arranged either side of dolphin shows alongside the
the Geological Museum.The main animal attractions.These
imposing Umbracle (palm- include the jungle bird aviary,
house) is a handsome structure permanent gorilla exhibition
with a barrelled wood-slat roof and comprehensive collection of
supported by cast-iron pillars, reptiles, while notable
which allows shafts of light to endangered species found at the
play across the assembled palms zoo include the Iberian wolf,
and ferns. Both materials and ROWBOATS, PARC DE LA CIUTADELLA
concept are echoed in the larger
Hivernacle (conservatory),
whose enclosed greenhouses are
separated by a soaring glass-
roofed terrace. A refined
caf-bar at the Hivernacle (see
p.105) is the best stop in the
park for drinks or a meal.
Museu de Geologia
Pg. de Picasso t 933 196 895,
w www.bcn.es/museuciencies. Tues,
Wed & FriSun 10am2pm, Thurs
10am6.30pm. e3, first Sun of the
month free. The first public
museum in Barcelona was based
Contents Places
105
PLACES Parc de la Ciutadella

PARC DE LA CIUTADELLA
and big cats such as the Sri on its own cobbled stage,
Lanka leopard, snow leopard complete with ghostly
and the Sumatran tiger. attendants, horses and riders
However, the zoos days here in suspended in frozen animation.
its current form are numbered Used for city funeral processions
the powers that be perhaps from the end of the nineteenth
having finally appreciated the century onwards, most of the
irony of its juxtaposition next to carriages and hearses are
the parliament building, and extravagantly decorated in gilt,
grown weary of explaining to black or white. Old photographs
visiting dignitaries the source of show some of the carriages in
the strong smell pervading the use in the citys streets, while
area.There are advanced plans showcases highlight antique
to move the marine animals to a uniforms, mourning wear and
new coastal zoo and wetlands formal riding gear.
area at the Diagonal Mar
seashore at Bess.
Cafs
Museu de Carrosses
Fnebres Hivernacle
C/Sancho de vila 2 t 934 841 700. Pg. de Picasso t 932 954 017. Daily
MonFri 10am1pm & 46pm, Sat & 10am1am. A quiet, relaxing
Sun 10am1pm. Free. Present terrassa set amongst the palm
yourself at the front desk of the trees inside the nineteenth-
Serveis Funeraris (funerary century glass conservatory. Its a
services) de Barcelona (by the genteel stop for daytime drinks,
blue Banc Sabadell sign) for one fancy tapas or moderately priced
of the citys more esoteric Catalan dining (weekday men
attractions.Youll be escorted del dia e12), with live music and
into the bowels of the building jazz nights a couple of times a
and the lights will be thrown on week.
to reveal a staggering set of 22
funerary carriages, each parked
Contents Places
106
Montjuc
Youll need to reserve at least a day to see Montjuc, the
steep hill and park rising over the city to the southwest. It
Montjuc PLACES
takes its name from the Jewish community that once set-
tled on its slopes, and theres been a castle on the
heights since the mid-seventeenth century. But its as a
cultural leisure park that contemporary Montjuc is posi-
tioned, anchored around the heavyweight art collections
in the Museu Nacional dArt de Catalunya (MNAC). This is
supplemented by works in two other superb galleries,
namely contemporary art in the Caixa Forum and that of
the famous Catalan artist Joan Mir in the Fundaci Joan
Mir. In addition, there are several other minor museums
on the hill plus the substantial open-air collections of the
Poble Espanyol (Spanish Village), quite apart from the
arenas associated with the 1992 Olympics. Metro
Espanya provides easy access to Caixa Forum, Poble
Espanyol and MNAC; the Trasbordador Aeri (cross-har-
bour cable car from Barceloneta) and Funicular de
Montjuc (from Metro Paral.lel) drop you a short walk
from the Fundaci Joan Mir; while the Olympic area can
be reached by escalators behind MNAC.
Plaa dEspanya (and modern escalators) ascend

When Montjuc was chosen as the hill to the Palau Nacional,
the site of the International past water cascades and under the
Exhibition of 1929, its slopes flanking walls, busts and roofline
were laid with gardens, terraces, kiosks of two grand Viennese-
fountains and monumental style pavilions.
buildings. Gateway to the
Exhibition was the vast Plaa Tren Turstic de Montjuc
dEspanya, based on plans by Pl. dEspanya T 934 156 020.
noted architect Josep Puig i Departures every 30min,
Cadalfach.Arranged around a 10am8.30pm. April to mid-June Sat,
huge Neoclassical fountain, the Sun & hols only; mid-June to Oct daily.
square is unlike any other in e3.20. Montjucs summer-season
Barcelona, and a radical departure train-trolley leaves regularly from
from the modernisme so in vogue Plaa dEspanya and runs to all
elsewhere in the contemporary the major sights on the hill,
city. Striking twin towers, 47m including the castle.The return
high, stand at the foot of the trip lasts about an hour and your
imposing Avinguda de la Reina ticket allows you to complete
Maria Cristina, which heads up the full circuit once, getting on
towards Montjuc, the avenue and off where you like.
lined by huge exhibition halls still
used for trade fairs.At the end of Font Mgica
the avenue monumental steps Pl. de Carles Buigas. MaySept
Contents Places
107
ThursSun 8pmmidnight, music starts buildings, whose external
9.30pm; OctApril Fri & Sat only at structure was left untouched
7pm & 8pm. Free. On selected original girders, pillars and
evenings, the fountain at the stanchions, factory brickwork and
foot of the Montjuc steps crenellated walls appear at every
PLACES Montjuc
becomes the centrepiece of an turn.The Casamarona tower,
impressive if slightly kitsch etched in blue and yellow tiling,
sound-and-light show the rises high above the walls, as
sprays and sheets of brightly readily recognizable as the huge
coloured water appear to dance Mir starfish logos emblazoned
to the strains of Holst and Abba. across the building.The centres
celebrated contemporary art
Caixa Forum collection focuses on the period
Avgda. del Marqus de Comillas 68 from the 1980s to the present,
T 934 768 600, w www.fundacio.lacaixa with hundreds of artists
.es. TuesSun 10am8pm. Free. The represented, from Antoni Abad to
former Casamarona textile Rachel Whiteread.Works are
factory (1911) at the foot of shown in partial rotation, along
Montjuc conceals a terrific arts with temporary touring
and cultural centre.The exhibitions, and theres also a
exhibition halls were fashioned library and resource centre, the
from the former factory Mediateca multimedia space,
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Contents Places
108
Poble
Espanyol
Avgda. del
Marqus de
Comillas T 935
Montjuc PLACES
086 330, w www

.poble-espanyol
.com. Mon
9am8pm,
TuesThurs
9am2am, Fri &
Sat 9am4am,
Sun 9am
midnight. e7.
PAVELL MIES VAN DER ROHE
The Spanish Village a hybrid
regular childrens activities, and a open-air park of reconstructed
400-seat auditorium with a full famous or characteristic Spanish
programme of music, art, poetry buildings is the most
and literary events.The caf is a extraordinary relic of the 1929
nice spot, too an airy converted International Exhibition. Get
space within the old factory to know Spain in one hour is
walls, serving sandwiches, snacks whats promised and its
and lunch. nowhere near as cheesy as you
might think. It works well as a
Pavell Mies van der Rohe crash-course introduction to
Avgda. del Marqus de Comillas T 934 regional architecture
234 016, w www.miesbcn.com. Daily everything is well labelled and at
10am8pm. e3.50. The 1986 least reasonably accurate.The
reconstruction by Catalan echoing main square is lined
architects of the Pavell Mies van with cafs, while the
der Rohe recalls part of the surrounding streets, alleys and
German contribution to the buildings contain around forty
1929 International Exhibition. workshops, where you can see
Originally designed by Mies van engraving, weaving, pottery and
der Rohe, and used as a other crafts. Inevitably, its all
reception room during the one huge shopping experience
Exhibition, its considered a castanets to Lladr porcelain,
major example of modern religious icons to Barcelona
rationalist architecture.The soccer shirts and prices are
pavilion has a startlingly beautiful inflated, but children will love it
conjunction of hard straight lines (and you can let them run free
with watery surfaces, its dark- as theres no traffic). Get to the
green polished onyx alternating village as it opens if you want to
with shining glass. Its open to enjoy it in relatively crowd-free
visitors, but unless theres an circumstances once the tour
exhibition in place (a fairly groups arrive, it becomes a bit
regular occurrence) there is little of a scrum.You could, of course,
to see inside, though you can always come at the other end of
buy postcards and books from the day, when the village
the small shop and debate quite transforms into a vibrant and
how much you want a Mies exciting centre of Barcelona
mousepad or a Less is MoreT- nightlife, its clubs (see p.116)
shirt. among the hippest in the city.
Contents Places
109
Museu Nacional dArt de the best of its kind in the world.
Catalunya (MNAC) Removed from churches in the
Palau Nacional T 936 220 376, Catalan Pyrenees, they are
w www.mnac.es. TuesSat 10am7pm, presented in a reconstruction of
Sun 10am2.30pm. e4.80, first Thurs their original setting, so you can
PLACES Montjuc
of the month free. Catalunyas see their size and where they
national art gallery occupies the would have been placed in the
bulk of the towering Palau church buildings. Full
Nacional, set back on Montjuc explanatory notes (in English)
at the top of the long flight of cover the artistic techniques and
steps from the fountains. Its one iconography of the paintings,
of Spains great museums, which for the most part, have a
combining a medieval art vibrant, raw quality, best
collection of international exemplified by those taken from
renown, as well as impressive churches in the Bo valley.The
holdings of European evolution from the Romanesque
Renaissance and Baroque art, to the Gothic period was marked
and nineteenth- and twentieth- by a move from mural painting
century Catalan art (until the to painting on wood, and the
1940s) everything from the museum contains some
1950s and later is covered by outstanding altarpieces and
MACBA (see p.81). If time is church decoration as well as
limited its recommended that important works of the
you concentrate on the medieval International Gothic or 1400
collection, which is split into style, by artists like Jaume
two main sections, one dedicated Huguet and Llus Dalmau.
to Romanesque art and the In the Renaissance and
other to Gothic periods in Baroque sections, major
which Catalunyas artists were European artists from the
pre-eminent in Spain. fifteenth to eighteenth centuries
The collection of Romanesque are represented, though there are
frescoes in particular is the no real masterpieces. Instead, in a
museums pride and joy, perhaps final flourish, its MNACs
POBLE ESPANYOL
nineteenth- and twentieth-
century Catalan art collection
that stands out, particularly strong
on modernista and noucentista
painting and sculpture, the two
dominant schools of the period.
Items from MNACs more
specialist collections of Catalan
drawings, engravings, coins and
photographs sometimes appear in
temporary exhibitions on the
lower level (separate entry e4.20,
joint admission with main
museum e6), which change
every two to four months.
Contents Places
110
Museu Etnolgic examining medieval carving or
Pg. Santa Madrona 1622 T 934 246 early industrialization.
402, w www.museuetnologic.bcn.es.
TuesSun 10am2pm. e3, first Sun of Museu dArqueolgia
the month free. The Museu Pg. Santa Madrona 3941 T 934 246
Montjuc PLACES
Etnolgic boasts extensive 577, w www.mac.es. TuesSat

cultural collections from Spain, 9.30am7pm, Sun 10am2.30pm.
Central and South America, e2.40. Montjucs archeological
Asia, Africa, Australia and the collection spans the centuries
Middle East, housed in a series from the Stone Age to the time of
of glass hexagons.The collection the Visigoths, with the Roman
itself is too big to exhibit at any and Greek periods particularly
one time, so the museum well represented. Finds from
displays rotating exhibitions, Catalunyas best-preserved
which usually last for a year or archeological site the Greek
two and focus on a particular remains at Empries on the Costa
subject or geographical area.The Brava are particularly notable,
Spanish collections range across and theres also an interesting
every province in the country, selection of Iberian ceramics from
with exhibitions occasionally around Catalunya and further
honing in on the minutiae of south, including tablets bearing
rural life and work, or inscriptions in an ancient Iberian
POBLE SEC BALCONIES
script, which is still
indecipherable.
Teatre Grec
Pg. Santa Madrona 38 T 933
161 000, w www.bcn.es/grec.
Centrepiece of Barcelonas
annual summer cultural
Grec festival is this
reproduction of a Greek
theatre cut into a former
quarry on the Montjuc
hillside.The festival starts
in the last week of June
(and runs throughout July
and August), and
incorporates drama, music
and dance at a multitude
of venues around the city
with some of the most
atmospheric works
performed here in the
Greek theatre. Shows and
events feature local
unknowns to international
superstars, and theres
more information (and
ticket bookings) at the
Palau de la Virreina on the
Ramblas (see p.53).
Contents Places
111
La Ciutat del Teatre while the Montjuc funicular
Mercat de les Flors T 934 261 875, (see p.112) has its lower station
w www.mercatflors.com; Teatre Lliure on the southern fringe of the
T 932 289 747, w www.teatrelliure.com; neighbourhood at Metro
Institut del Teatre T 932 273 900, Paral.lel.
PLACES Montjuc
w www.diba.es/iteatre. Downhill
from the Palau Nacional, just to Estadi Olmpic
the east, steps descend the hillside Galeria Olmpica, Avgda. de lEstadi
to the theatre area known as La T 934 260 660, w www.
Ciutat del Teatre (Theatre fundacio-barcelonaolimpica.es.
City), which occupies a corner AprilSept MonFri 10am2pm &
at the back of the old working- 47pm; OctMarch MonFri
class neighbourhood of Poble 10am1pm & 46pm. e2.70. The
Sec.The theatre buildings sit in a 65,000-seater Olympic Stadium
tight huddle off c/de Lleida, with was the venue for the opening
the fringe-style Mercat de les and closing ceremonies of the
Flors once a flower market 1992 Barcelona Olympics.
and progressive Teatre Lliure Theres usually a gate open in
(Free Theatre) occupying the the Neoclassical facade if you
spaghetti-western-style Palau de just want a glimpse of the pitch
lAgricultura premises built for (the citys American football
the 1929 Exhibition. Both have a team, Barcelona Dragons, plays
full programme of theatre and here, as does the other local
dance, while Mercat de les Flors soccer team, Espanyol). Olympics
hosts an annual nonstop two-day fans wont want to miss the
performing arts festival (the stadiums Galeria Olmpica,
Matar de lEspectacle, or which exhibits assorted items
Entertainment Marathon) in from the opening and closing
June or July. ceremonies, and shows videos of
The sleek Institut del Teatre, the Games themselves.
meanwhile, brings together the In front of the stadium a vast
citys major drama and dance terrassa provides one of the finest
schools, and various vantage points in the city. Long
conservatories, libraries and water-fed troughs break the
study centres. concrete and marble expanse,
while the confident, space-age
Poble Sec curve of Santiago Calatravas
The neighbourhood of Poble communications tower
Sec, or dry village (so called dominates the skyline.
because it had no water supply
until the nineteenth century), is Piscines Bernat Picornell
a complete contrast to the Avgda. de lEstadi 3040 T 934 234
landscaped slopes of Montjuc. 041, w www.picornell.com. MonFri
Theres nothing specific to see 7ammidnight, Sat 7am9pm, Sun
here, but the grid of steep streets 7.30am4pm. e8. Remodelled and
is lined with down-to-earth expanded for the Olympics, the
grocery stores, bakeries, old- citys favourite indoor
fashioned bars and good-value swimming pools are open all
restaurants the best eating year, while the outdoor pools
places are listed at the end of are open to the public in
this chapter.The neighbourhood summer only (JuneSept daily
has its own metro station, or its 9am9pm). During the summer
an easy walk from El Raval, Grec festival, the pool hosts a
Contents Places
112
popular film-and-swim session
one of Barcelonas more offbeat
cultural events.
Fundaci Joan Mir

Montjuc PLACES
Parc de Montjuc T 934 439 470,

w www.bcn.fjmiro.es. TuesSat
10am7pm, Thurs 10am9.30pm, Sun
10am2.30pm. e7.20, exhibitions
e3.60. Barcelonas most
adventurous art museum houses
the lifes work of Joan Mir
(18931983), one of the greatest
Catalan artists, who established an
international reputation while
never severing his links with his
homeland. His friend, the
architect Josep-Luis Sert,
designed the impressive white
building set in lovely gardens
overlooking the city, inside which
is a permanent collection of
paintings, graphics, tapestries,
COMMUNICATIONS TOWER, MONTJUC
sculptures, sketches and notes,
most donated by Mir himself Universal Exhibition of 193637
and covering the period from the same exhibition for which
1914 to 1978.The paintings and Picasso painted Guernica.
drawings in particular are The museum lies just a few
instantly recognizable, among the minutes walk from the Montjuc
chief links between Surrealism funicular and cable-car stations. It
and abstract art. Mir showed a sponsors excellent temporary
childlike delight in colours and exhibitions, film shows, lectures
shapes and developed a free, and childrens theatre.Theres also
highly decorative style youll a library, with books and
notice his designs all over his periodicals on contemporary art,
native city, most notably the a bookshop selling posters, and a
starfish logo of the savings bank, caf-restaurant (lunch 1.303pm,
Caixa de Pensions, and the otherwise drinks, pastries and
pavement mosaic in the middle sandwiches) with outdoor tables
of the Ramblas. But darker works on a pleasant patio you dont
on show reflect other passions, have to pay to get into the
like the fifty black-and-white museum to use this.
lithographs of the Barcelona Series
(193944), which encapsulate the Funicular de Montjuc
turmoil of the post-Civil War Inside Metro Paral.lel, Avgda. del
period.The foundation also Paral.lel T 010, w www.tmb.net. Every
displays works by other artists in 10min daily 9am10pm (OctMarch
homage to Mir, with the single until 8pm). e2.20 return. The
most compelling exhibit being quickest way to reach the lower
Alexander Calders Mercury heights of Montjuc is to take
Fountain, which he built for the the funicular, which departs
Republican pavilion at the Paris from inside the station at Metro
Contents Places
113
Paral.lel and takes a couple of from Barceloneta drops you
minutes to ascend the hill. At close to a precipitous cactus
the upper station you can switch garden which looks out over the
to the Montjuc cable car (see port. Steep steps lead down into
below), or youre only a few flourishing stands of Central and
PLACES Montjuc
minutes walk from the South American, Indian and
Fundaci Joan Mir. African cacti, some over 6m
high. Its a dramatic scene, little
Telefric de Montjuc experienced by most visitors to
Avgda. de Miramar T 010, Montjuc, though the people
w www.tmb.net. June to mid-Sept daily lounging on the steps and in the
11am9pm; mid-Sept to Oct, April & shade of the bigger specimens
May daily 11am7pm; rest of the year suggest its something of an
weekends only 11am7pm. e3.60 open secret among the locals.
one-way, e5 return. The Montjuc
cable car whisks you up to the Castell de Montjuc
castle and back in little four- Carretera de Montjuc T 933 298 613.
person gondolas, dangling Grounds: daily 7am8pm; free. Museu
passengers precariously over the Militar: mid-March to mid-Nov TuesSun
landscaped grounds below. Its 9.30am8pm; mid-Nov to mid-March
an exciting ride and the views, TuesSun 9.30am5pm; e2.50. Built
of course, are stupendous. on seventeenth-century ruins,
the castles outer defences are
Jardins de Mossn Costa i constructed as a series of angular
Llobera concentric perimeters, designed
C/de Miramar. Daily 10amsunset. for artillery deflection, but the
Free. The cross-harbour cable car inner part is startlingly medieval
in appearance, with its straight
CAF AT FUNDACI JOAN MIR walls and square
shape.The fort
served as a military
base and prison for
many years after the
Civil War, and it was
here that the last
president of the
prewar Catalan
government, Llus
Companys, was
executed on Francos
orders on October
15, 1940.You can
walk along the
ramparts for free, and
theres a little
outdoor caf within
the walls. However,
you have to pay to
go inside the inner
keep, where youll
find Barcelonas
Museu Militar,
Contents Places
114
containing an excellent stocks English-language books,
collection of swords, armour, with cheap prices for current
guns, medals, uniforms, maps and novels, classics, childrens books
photographs. and secondhand. A small caf at
Below the castle walls, a the back serves English tea,
Montjuc PLACES
panoramic pathway the Cam home-made brownies, cakes and

del Mar has been cut from the cookies.
cliff edge, providing
scintillating views, first
across to Port Olmpic
and the northern
beaches and then
southwest as the path
swings around the castle.
The path is just over
1km long and ends at
the back of the castle
battlements, where a
small house (open Sat &
Sun only) sells drinks
and rents out bikes for
use on the surrounding
wooded trails.
Jard Botnic de
Barcelona
C/Dr Font i Quer 2 T 934
264 935, w www
.jardibotanic.bcn.es. Daily:
AprilJune, Sept & Oct
10am5pm; July, Aug &
NovMarch 10am3pm. e3.
Principal among VIEW FROM CASTELL DE MONTJUC
Montjucs many gardens is the
citys Botanical Garden, laid out
on the slopes behind the Restaurants and
Olympic Stadium. Here, easy-
to-follow paths wind through tapas bars
landscaped zones representing
the flora of the Mediterranean, Bella Napoli
Canary Islands, California, C/Margarit 14 T 934 425 056.
Chile, South Africa and TuesSun 1.304.30pm &
Australia.There are guided tours 8.30pm12.30am. Authentic
every weekend (except Aug) on Neapolitan pizzeria, right down
the half-hour between 11am to the cheery waiters and cheesy
and 1.30pm. pop music.The pizzas the best
in the city come straight from
the depths of a beehive-shaped
Shops oven, or theres a huge range of
pastas, risottos and veal scaloppine,
Elephant Books with almost everything priced
C/Creu dels Molers 12 T 934 430 594, between e8 and e11. Be
w www.lfantbooks.4t.com. Only prepared to wait in line.
Contents Places
115
Can Margarit Tivolis Bistro
C/Concrdia 21 T 934 416 723. C/Magalhaes 35 T 934 414 017,
MonSat evenings only, two sittings at w www.tivolisbistro.com. TuesFri
9pm & 11.30pm; closed Aug. This 8.30pmmidnight, Sat 1.304pm &
rustic restaurant is extremely 8.30pmmidnight; closed mid-Aug to
PLACES Montjuc
popular with people wanting to mid-Sept. Home-style Thai cuisine,
celebrate (every now and again toned down for local tastes, but
the lights will go off as a bottle reasonably priced and run by a
of champagne lit by a sparkler is nice Catalan-Thai couple, who
carried in). Help yourself to also organize cooking classes.A
wine from the barrels at the set meal (e18 per person, drinks
entrance and eat easily for under extra, dishes change monthly) is
e20 the rabbit (conill) with delivered to your table, usually
caramelized onions and herbs is incorporating a starter or two, a
a house speciality; otherwise its red or green curry, a vegetable
country salads, cured meats, and fish dish, and Thai noodles.
sausage and pork dishes.
Quimet i Quimet Bars

C/Poeta Cabanyes 25 T 934 423 142.
TuesSat noon4pm & 711pm, Sun Barcelona Rouge
noon4pm. The neighbourhoods C/Poeta Cabanyes 21 T 934 424 985.
nicest tapas joint, with a TuesSat 11pm3am. Its red all
chalkboard menu of twenty right couldnt be more red, in
wines by the glass and little fact, inside this laid-back
plates of food served from the
JARD BOTNIC DE BARCELONA
minuscule counter. Order a
roast onion, a marinaded
mushroom or two, stuffed
cherry tomatoes, grilled
aubergine and anchovy-
wrapped olives classy finger
food for the discerning nibbler.
Taverna La Tomaquera
C/Margarit 58; no phone. TuesSat
1.303.45pm & 8.3010.45pm, Sun
1.303.45pm. Sit down in this
chatter-filled tavern and the
bread arrives with a dish of olives
and two quails eggs and there
any delicacy ends, as the sweaty
chefs set to hacking steaks and
chops from great sides and ribs of
meat.The grilled chicken will be
the best youve ever had, and the
entrectes are enormous, while
the locals limber up with pan-
fried snails with chorizo and
tomato. Most main dishes cost
e611.
Contents Places
116
cocktail emporium playing Sala Apolo/Nitsa Club
downtempo jazz, trip-hop and C/Nou de la Rambla 113 T 933 010
other dreamy beats. 090, w www.nitsa.com. Regular live
gigs with the occasional big
Cervecera Jazz name in an old-time ballroom
Montjuc PLACES
C/Margarit 43 T 934 433 259. setting.The techno/electronica

MonSat 7pm2.30am. Grab a stool Nitsa Club kicks off at weekends
at the carved bar and shoot the (Fri & Sat 12.30pm6.30am)
breeze over an imported beer in with guest DJs playing pumping
this amiable neighbourhood bar. sounds.
The music policy embraces
reggae and other mellow Tablao de Carmen
sounds, not just jazz. Avgda. Marqus de Comillas, Poble
Espanyol T 933 256 895,
Tinta Roja w www.tablaodecarmen.com. TuesSun
C/Creu dels Molers 17 T 934 433 243. from 9.30pm. The Poble Espanyols
Wed & Thurs 8pm1.30am, Fri & Sat long-standing flamenco club
8pm2.30am, Sun 611pm. Highly features a variety of styles and
theatrical tango bar with a performers. Prices start at e30
succession of crimson rooms for the show and a drink, rising
dripping with ornamentation to e55 and upwards for the
leading through to a stage at the show plus dinner. Advance
back.Theres cabaret and live reservations required.
music (tango, rumba, Cuban)
often free a couple of nights a Terrazza
week, though special shows are Avgda. Marqus de Comillas, Poble
e10. Espanyol T 934 231 285,
w www.nightsungroup.com. MayOct
ThursSun midnight6am. Open-air
Clubs summer club thats the place to
be. Nonstop dance, house and
Discothque techno, though dont get there
Avgda. Marqus de Comillas, Poble until at least 3am and be
Espanyol T 934 231 285, prepared for the style police.
w www.discothequebcn.com. OctMay
Fri & Sat midnight7am. The winter Torres de vila
destination for dedicated Avgda. Marqus de Comillas, Poble
hedonists. Almost two thousand Espanyol T 934 249 309. ThursSat
cram in here for house, garage, midnight6am. Located inside the
big-name DJs and a whole lot of mock-twelfth-century gateway
style on the main dance floor. in the Spanish Village, this is a
stunning fantasy of a dance club,
with a fabulous panoramic
terrace.
Contents Places
117
Port Olmpic and Poble

Nou
PLACES Port Olmpic and Poble Nou

The main waterfront legacy of the 1992 Olympics was
the Port Olmpic, the sparkling marina development
which lies fifteen minutes walk along the promenade
from Barceloneta. Locals have taken to this in a big
way, making full use of the surrounding beaches and
boardwalks, and descending in force at the weekends
for a leisurely lunch or late drink in one of the scores of
restaurants and bars. Its a pattern beginning to be
repeated further north in the old working-class neigh-
bourhood of Poble Nou, which overlays its traditional
character with the buzz provided by one of Barcelonas
hottest club scenes. There are metro stations at
Ciutadella-Vila Olmpica and Poble Nou, or bus #59
runs from the Ramblas through Barceloneta and out to
the Port Olmpic.
Port Olmpic 154m high.Two wharves contain

From any point along the Passeig the bulk of the action: the Moll
Martim, the soaring twin towers de Mestral has a lower deck by
of the Olympic port impose the marina lined with bars and
themselves upon the skyline, terrassas, while the Moll de Gregal
while a shimmering golden sports a double-decker tier of
mirage above the promenade seafood restaurants.
slowly reveals itself to be a huge
copper fish (courtesy of North Centre Municipal de Vela
American Frank Gehry, architect Moll de Gregal, Port Olmpic t 932 257
of the Bilbao Guggenheim). 940, w www.vela-barcelona.com.
These are the showpiece Office open MonFri 9am9pm, Sat &
manifestations of the huge Sun 9am8pm. Sails often flit
seafront development constructed across the sparkling waters, as
for the 1992 Olympics, which yachties and windsurfers take
incorporated an athletes village full advantage of the blue skies
for the 15,000 competitors and and breezes. If you fancy joining
support staff the apartment them, instruction in
buildings and residential catamaran/laser sailing, kayaking
complexes were converted into and windsurfing is available
permanent housing after the from the Port Olmpics sailing
Games.The port itself site of club. Prices vary considerably,
many of the Olympic watersports but you can expect to pay
events is backed by the citys around e30 for a couple of
two tallest buildings, the Torre hours windsurfing or e180 for
Mapfre and the steel-framed a two-day elementary sailing
Hotel Arts Barcelona, both course.
Contents Places
118
CAFS, TAPAS AND BARS AND CLUBS POBLE NOU

RESTAURANTS Caf Caf 9 M
Agua 12 Kennedy Irish
S ANT M A R T 10
Bestial Sailing Club 7 POBLE
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Cangrejo Loco 8 Oven 5
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Port Olmpic and Poble Nou PLACES
Laie Martim 11 The Loft 4 D

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Rambla de Poble Nou Cementiri de Poble Nou

Pretty, traffic-free, tree-lined Avgda. dIcaria. Daily 8am6pm. This
Rambla de Poble Nou runs inland vast nineteenth-century
through the most attractive part of mausoleum has its tombs set in
nineteenth-century Poble Nou walls 7m high, tended by
(New Village) and is entirely families who have to climb great
modest in character just a run of stepladders to reach the
neighbourhood shops and cafs uppermost tiers.With traffic
frequented by locals out for their noise muted by the high walls,
daily stroll. Stop off for a cold and birdsong accompanying a
drink at El Tio Che (see opposite) stroll around the flower-lined
or lunch at Els Pescadors (p.121) pavements, quiet courtyards and
the metro (yellow line 4) will save chapels, this village of the dead is
you the walk back to Ciutadella, a rare haven of peace in the city.
Barceloneta or the city centre.
Contents Places
119
locals en masse, while
weekends see scratch
games of beach
volleyball and football
played up and down the

coast. Save your swim
for a pool, though
while the sands are
regularly swept and
replenished, the sea
waters still not as clean
as it could be.
Cafs
Laie Martim
Pg. Martim 35 t 932 247
173, w www.laie.es.
MonSat 8am9.30pm,
Sun 8.30am5pm. This
outpost of the Laie
bookshop caf,
RAMBLA DE POBLE NOU
attached to the Poliesportiu
Martim sports centre, is a bit of
City beaches a find amidst the chain bars and
A series of city beaches reaches pricey restaurants two minutes
north from the Port Olmpic, from the beach, with a sunny
along a five-kilometre stretch of terrassa, great coffee, tapas and
sandy coast as far the River Bess. sandwiches, and a salad bar and
Split into different named sections light meals at lunch.
(Nova Icria, Bogatell, etc), they
are all furnished with boardwalks, El Tio Che
showers and water fountains, while Rambla Poble Nou 4446 t 933 091
some also feature climbing frames, 872. Daily 10ammidnight; reduced
public art and open-air cafs.The hours in winter. Famous old
merest hint of sun brings out the orxateria in a down-to-earth
Urban renewal
Since the early 1990s the transformation of Poble Nou and its near neighbours has
formed part of an overall scheme to turn the 5km of shoreline from Barceloneta to
the River Bess into a high-tech business, leisure and residential corridor. The exten-
sion of Avinguda Diagonal to the sea, north of Poble Nou, provided the necessary
rebranding, and its as Diagonal Mar that the area hopes to prosper. Development
was further boosted by Barcelonas Universal Forum of Cultures (held from May to
September 2004), a sort of cultural and environmental Expo, which brought new
amenities in its wake, including a convention centre, marina, beach, business district,
university campus and metro and tram link. What attraction this development will
have for tourists in the future is still to be seen, though it cant be denied that its on
a grand scale: the convention centre is the biggest in southern Europe, while the
boast about the main Forum open space the Plaza is that its the second largest
square in the world (150,000 square metres) after Beijings Tiananmen Square.
Contents Places
120
neighbourhood. Orange or wooden bridge) youll find a
lemon granissat (crushed-ice) and pleasant terrace-garden in front
orxata (milky tiger-nut drink) of the beach, great for lunch.
come in various servings up to a Inside, the feel is sharp and
litre, and there are also torrons minimalist, while the cookings
Port Olmpic and Poble Nou PLACES
(almond fudge), hot chocolate, Mediterranean, mainly Italian,

coffee, croissants and sandwiches. with dishes given an original
twist. Rice, pasta and wood-
fired pizzas are in the e913
Restaurants and range, with other dishes up to
e18. At weekends, you can
tapas bars drink at the bar until 2am.
Agua Cangrejo Loco

Pg. Martim 30 t 932 251 272, Moll de Gregal 2930 t 932 210 533.
w www.aguadeltragaluz.com. Daily Daily 1pm1am. The large outdoor
1.304pm & 8.30pmmidnight, Fri & Sat terrace or huge picture windows
until 1am. Depending on your at the Crazy Crab offer
mood (or the weather) you can panoramas of the local coast and
choose the sleek, split-level marina.The fish and shellfish are
dining room or seafront first-rate, with the catch changing
boardwalk garden. Its a daily, but a mixed fried-fish plate
contemporary Mediterranean or broad beans with prawns are
menu rice with quail, asparagus typically Catalan starters. Paella
and mushroom, or grilled tuna can be thoroughly recommended
sofrito (caramelized onions and too, and the service is spot-on.
tomato) but the house Around e30 and upwards.
hamburger figures too, alongside
a short selection of tapas, pastas Escrib
and salads.The prices are pretty Ronda del Litoral 42, Platja Bogatell
fair (meals around e25), so its t 932 210 729. TuesSat 11am1am,
usually busy. Sun 11am4pm; restricted hours in
winter. Glorified beach shack a
Bestial xiringuito in the parlance thats
C/Ramon Trias Fargas 24 t 932 240 enough off the beaten track (a
407, w www.bestialdetragaluz.com. 20min walk along the prom
Daily 1.304pm & 8.30pmmidnight, from the Port Olmpic) to mark
Sat & Sun until 1am. Right beside you out as in the know. A tapas
Frank Gehrys fish (under the tasting plate for two is popular,
CEMENTIRI DE POBLE NOU
and the paellas
and fideus
(from e12) fly
out of the
kitchen; daily
fish specials are
more like e20,
and theres a
ten percent
terrace
surcharge, but
what the hell,
the food and
views are great.
Contents Places
121
plus live music
(pub rock,
covers, Irish)
Thursday to
Sunday and big-

screen sports.
Clubs
VILA OLMPICA HOUSING
The Loft
C/Pamplona 88 t 933 208 200,
Els Pescadors w www.theloftclub.com. Fri & Sat
Pl. Prim 1 t 932 252 018. Daily 14pm 16am. Two dance floors (The
& 8pmmidnight. Considered Loft and Lolita) located in an old
something of a pilgrimage for warehouse that form part of the
fish-lovers (reservations advised), Razzmatazz setup (see below).
a meal here should certainly Resident and international DJs
include a house special fideu offer up a wide range of beats,
(noodles) or a Catalan classic like from techno and electronica to
cod with samfaina (ratatouille) Spanish pop. Its cheaper, or can
though thats only just scratching be free before 2am (otherwise
the surface of a wide-ranging e12), but no one really turns up
menu. If you dont go mad, that early.
youll escape for about e50.The
restaurant is hidden away in a Oven
pretty square in the back alleys C/Ramon Turr 126 t 932 210 602,
of Rambla de Poble Nou. w www.oven.ws. MonFri
1.30pm2am, Sat 6pm2am;
restaurant open MonFri 1.304pm &
Bars 911.30pm, Sat 9pm12.30am.
Fabulously designed bar/club/
Caf Caf restaurant occupying former
Moll de Mestral 30 t 932 210 019. factory premises. Lounge room
MonThurs & Sun 3pm3am, Fri & Sat at the front, restaurant at the
3pm5am. Most of the Port back with a stunning open
Olmpic bars are kitchen, and live music a couple
indistinguishable pumping of nights a week. After midnight
sounds, backdrop video screens the place turns into a club, with
and preening youth but Caf DJs until 2am or later.
Caf is one of the few that dares
to be different. Its more relaxed Razzmatazz
than the others, with a cane- C/dels Almogavers 122 t 932 720
chair colonial feel, and serves 910, w www.salarazzmatazz.com. Fri &
lots more besides coffee. Sat 11pm5am. Razzmatazz hosts
the biggest in-town rock gigs at
Kennedy Irish Sailing Club weekends, after which the Razz
Moll de Mestral 2627 t 932 210 039, Club takes over three clubs in
w www.kennedybcn.com. Daily one spinning indie, rock, pop,
6pm5am. Barcelonas little bit of electro, Sixties and more.
Ireland provides a beer drinkers Entrance to all the bars and
haven between the disco bars. clubs, plus one drink, is usually
Guinness and Murphys on tap, e12.
Contents Places
122
Dreta de lEixample
The gridded nineteenth-century new-town area north of
Plaa de Catalunya is the citys main shopping and busi-
Dreta de lEixample PLACES
ness district. It was designed as part of a revolutionary

urban plan the Eixample in Catalan (Extension or
Widening) that divided districts into regular blocks,
whose characteristic wide streets and shaved corners
survive today. Two parallel avenues, Passeig de Grcia
and Rambla de Catalunya, are the backbone of the
Eixample, with everything to the east known as the
Dreta de lEixample (the right-hand side). Its here,
above all, that the bulk of the citys famous modernista
(Catalan Art Nouveau) buildings are found, whose fanci-
ful flourishes provide some of the most compelling
urban images in Europe. However, any visit might equal-
ly concentrate on the Dretas other undoubted pleasures
from museum and gallery visits to browsing in some
of the citys most stylish shops. Start your exploration
from either Metro Passeig de Grcia or Metro Diagonal.
Casa Calvet more elaborate buildings on

C/de Casp 48. Antoni Gauds Passeig de Grcia. If you want a
earliest commissioned town- closer look inside, youll have to
house building, erected for a book a table in the restaurant
prominent local textile family, (see p.130) that now occupies
dates from 1899 and, though the premises.
fairly conventional in style, the
Baroque inspiration on display Passeig de Grcia
in the sculpted facade and lobby The prominent showy avenue
was to surface again in his later, which runs northwest from
Modernisme
Modernisme, the Catalan offshoot of Art Nouveau, was the expression of a renewed
upsurge in Catalan nationalism in the 1870s. Its most famous architectural exponent
was Antoni Gaud i Cornet (18521926), whose buildings are apparently lunatic
flights of fantasy that at the same time are perfectly functional. His architectural
influences were Moorish and Gothic, while he embellished his work with elements
from the natural world. The imaginative impetus he provided to the movement was
incalculable, inspiring other Catalan architects like Llus Domnech i Montaner
(18501923) perhaps the greatest modernista architect and Josep Puig i
Cadafalch (18671957). It was in Domnechs caf-restaurant at the Parc de la
Ciutadella that a craft workshop was set up after the Universal Exhibition of 1888,
giving Barcelonas modernista architects the opportunity to experiment with ceram-
ic tiles, ironwork, stained glass and decorative stone carving. This combination of
traditional methods with experiments in modern technology was to become the hall-
mark of modernisme a marriage that produced some of the most fantastic and
exciting modern architecture to be found anywhere in the world.
Contents Places
RRER DEL PERILL
123
C STA. TECLA
C.ST. AGUSTI
C DE STA.
TERESA
PTGE. R. BOSCH
1 0 200 m
2
PLAA CARRER DE CORSEGA
Palau JOAN CARLES I
Robert i Casa Comalat
BARS AND CLUBS
M
DIAGONAL
Cervesera Artesana 1
DIAGONAL
Les Gens Que Jaime 9
M
Mond Club 2
PLACES Dreta de lEixample

CARRER DE ROSSELL Palau
3 Muxart Quadras Casa de les
PTGE DE LA CONCEPCI Vinon AVI Punxes
NG
4 UD
Dom La Pedrera AD VERDAGUER
IAG
ON M
PASSEIG DE GRCIA
RAMBLA DE CATALUNYA
CARRER DE PROVENA AL
Groc 5
6 Ictineo
Casa Sculpture
Thomas BD Ediciones
CARRER DE PAU CLARIS
CARRER DE MALLORCA
de Diseo N
PTGE. DELS CAMPS ELISIS
PTGE. DE DOMINGO
7
Mango Palau
Ramon
Joaqun Museu Montaner
8
Berao Egipci CARRER DE VALNCIA
Fundaci Bulevard 9 Casa
Zara Rosa Fundaci Elizalde
PTGE. DE RECTOR
Antoni Mercat de la
Francisco
OLIVERAS
CARRER DE ROGER DE LLRIA
Tpies Armand Concepci

10
Godia
Basi
Colmado CARRER DARAG Casa del Llibre
CARRER DE GIRONA
Quilez Casa Batll
CARRER DEL BRUC
CARRER DE BAILEN
M
MNDEZ VIGO
Casa Amatller PASSEIG DE GRCIA

PTGE. DE
Muxart 11 Museu del Perfum

12
Antonio Mandarina Duck
Casa Lle CARRER DEL CONSELL DE CENT
Mir
Morera M
RAMBLA DE CATALUNYA
GIRONA
PTGE. DE PETMANYER
M
13
CARRER DE LA DIPUTACI
CAFS, TAPAS AND
14 RESTAURANTS
15
ba-ba-reeba 14
PASSEIG DE GRCIA
Bodegueta 6
M M
GRAN VIA DE LES CORTS CATALANES Casa Calvet 19
Ciudad Condal 15
16 East 47 8
Zara Laie Forn de Sant Jaume 11
Mango
17 Japons 3
PG DE GRCIA
Laie Llibreria Caf 17

18 Muscleria 7
CARRER DE CASP Mussol 10, 18
M 19 ONabo de Lugo 5
CATALUNYA M Casa Thai Gardens 13
M
RON Calvet Tragaluz 4
PLAA DE DA D
E SA
Tramoia 16
CATALUNYA NT P
ER E C A R R ER D E AU S IAS MAR C Valor 12
Plaa de Catalunya as far as the Passeig de Grcia from Plaa de

southern reaches of Grcia was Catalunya to Avinguda Diagonal
laid out in its present form in (a 25min stroll) and youll pass
1827. As the Eixample became some of the citys most
the fashionable part of town in extraordinary architecture,
which to live in the nineteenth notably the famous group of
century, the avenue developed as three buildings (casas Lle
a showcase for the talents of Morera, Amatller and Batll)
modernista architects who were known as the Mansana de la
eagerly commissioned by status- Discrdia, or Block of
conscious merchants and Discord, as they show off
businessmen.Walk the length of wildly varying manifestations of
Contents Places
124
the modernista style and spirit.
Further up is Antoni Gauds
iconic apartment building La
Pedrera while, in between,
wrought-iron Art Nouveau
street lamps, fashion stores, classy

tapas bars and a designer hotel
or two set the tone for this
resolutely upscale avenue.
Casa Lle Morera

Pg. de Grcia 35. No public access.
Domnech i Montaners Casa
Lle Morera (1906) is the least
extravagant of the buildings in
the so-called Mansana de la
Discrdia and has suffered more
PASSEIG DE GRCIA
than the others from
improvements wrought by ceramics and exquisite stained
subsequent owners, which glass, while its semicircular jutting
included removing the ground- balconies are quite distinctive.
floor arches and sculptures.A
Loewe leather clothes and Museu del Perfum
accessories store occupies the Pg. de Grcia 39 t 932 160 121,
ground floor, while the main w www.museodelperfume.com.
entrance to the building is MonFri 10.30am1.30pm &
resolutely guarded to prevent 4.308pm, Sat 11am2pm. Free.
more than a peek inside.This is a They may have to turn the
pity because it has a rich Art lights on for you at the back of
Nouveau interior, flush with the Regia perfume store, but
CASA CALVET
theres no missing the exhibits as
a rather cloying pong exudes
from the room. Its a private
collection of over five thousand
perfume and essence bottles
from Egyptian times onwards,
and there are some exquisite
pieces displayed, including
Turkish filigree-and-crystal ware
and bronze and silver Indian
elephant flasks. More modern
times are represented by scents
made for Brigitte Bardot, Grace
Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor, and if
youre diligent enough to scan
all the shelves you might be able
to track down the perfume
bottle designed by Salvador Dal.
Casa Amatller
Pg. de Grcia 41 t 934 880 139.
MonSat 10am7pm, Sun 10am2pm.
Free. Puig i Cadafalchs striking
Contents Places
125
Casa Amatller (1900) was created on the Block of Discord is the
largely from the bones of an Casa Batll, designed for the
existing building and paid for by industrialist Josep Batll and
Antoni Amatller, a Catalan finished in 1907. Antoni Gaud
chocolate manufacturer.The contrived to create an

facade rises in steps to a point, undulating facade here that
studded with coloured ceramic Salvador Dal later compared to
decoration and with heraldic the tranquil waters of a lake.
sculptures over the doors and Theres an animal aspect at work
windows. Inside the hallway the too: the stone facade hangs in
ceramic tiles continue along the folds, like skin and, from below,
walls, while twisted stone the twisted balcony railings
columns are interspersed by resemble malevolent eyes.The
higher part of the facade is less
MUSEU DEL PERFUM
abstruse and more decorative,
pockmarked with circular
ceramic buttons laid on a bright
mosaic background and finished
with a little tower topped with
a cross. Self-guided audio tours
show you the main floor, patio,
attic and roof chimneys. Its best
to reserve a ticket in advance
(by phone or in person), as this
is a very popular attraction.
Fundaci Antoni Tpies

C/Arag 255 t 934 870 315,
dragon lamps, all of which is w www.fundaciotapies.org. TuesSun
further illuminated by fine 10am8pm. e4.20. Housed in
stained-glass doors and an modernista architect Domnech
interior glass roof.The ground i Montaners first important
floor contains the small Centre building, the Casa Montaner i
del Modernisme, which is Simon (1880), is the definitive
worth calling in to to peruse its collection of the work of
temporary exhibitions on the Catalan abstract artist Antoni
buildings and personalities of the Tpies i Puig.You cant miss
modernista period.Theres also an the foundation building its
excellent selection of postcards capped by Tpies own striking
for sale, while you can buy the sculpture, Nvol i Cadira
useful Ruta del Modernisme ticket (Cloud and Chair: 1990), a
here (see p.188), which includes tangle of glass, wire and
a free tour giving some aluminium. The artist was born
background to the Mansana de in Barcelona in 1923 and was a
la Discrdia buildings. founding member (1948) of the
influential avant-garde Dau al
Casa Batll Set (Die at Seven) grouping
Pg. de Grcia 43 t 932 160 306, of seven artists. After a brief
w www.casabatllo.es. Daily 9am2pm; Surreal phase, Tpies found his
also open some afternoons until 8pm. feet with an abstract style that
Visits to main/ground floors e10, matured in the 1950s, with
attic/roof e10, both e16. Perhaps underlying messages and
the most extraordinary creation themes signalled by the
Contents Places
126
inclusion of everyday objects childrens activities and evening
and symbols on the canvas. He events the reception desk can
has also continually provide details.
experimented with unusual
materials, like oil paint mixed Fundaci Francisco Godia
with crushed marble, or C/de Valncia 284 t 932 723 180,

employing sand, cloth or straw w www.fundacionfgodia.org. Daily
in his collages. Temporary except Tues 10am8pm. e4.50, joint
exhibitions focus on selections admission with Museu Egipci e8.50.
of Tpies lifes work, while the Guided tours every Sat & Sun at noon,
foundation also includes a included in admission. The building
collection of works by other next door to the Egyptian
contemporary artists. Museum houses the private art
collection of aesthete and 1950s
Museu Egipci de Barcelona racing driver Francisco Godia.
C/de Valncia 284 t 934 880 188, Harnessing medieval art,
w www.fundclos.com. MonSat ceramics and modern Catalan
10am8pm, Sun 10am2pm. e5.50, art, in many ways it serves as a
joint admission with Fundaci Francisco taster for the huge collections at
Godia e8.50. Guided tours every Sat at Montjuc in MNAC (see p.109),
noon & 6pm, included in admission. while its small size makes it
Barcelonas Egyptian Museum is immediately more accessible. In
an exceptional private collection hushed rooms, where the only
of artefacts from ancient Egypt, sound is the hum of the air
ranging from the earliest conditioning, lie selected
kingdoms to the era of Romanesque carvings, Gothic
Cleopatra. It was founded by altarpieces and modernista and
hotelier Jordi Clos whose Hotel noucentista paintings, combined
Claris, a block away, still has its with a varied selection of
own private museum for guests ceramics from most of the
and displays a remarkable historically important production
gathering of over six hundred centres in Spain. Not all of the
objects, amulets to sarcophagi. collection can be shown at any
The emphasis is on the shape and one time, so pieces are rotated
character of Egyptian society, and on occasion, while special
visitors are given a hugely exhibitions also run in tandem,
detailed English-language to which theres usually no extra
guidebook covering every item. charge.
But the real pleasure here is a
serendipitous wander, turning up La Pedrera
items like a wood-and-leather Pg. de Grcia 92, entrance on
bed of the First and Second c/Provena t 902 400 973,
Dynasties (29202649 BC), some w www.caixacatalunya.es/obrasocial.
examples of cat mummies of the Daily 10am8pm. e7. La Pedrera de Nit
Late Period (715332 BC) or a JuneAug only, Fri & Sat at 9.30pm,
rare figurine of a spoonbill (ibis) e11, advance sales from TelEntrada
representing an Egyptian god. t 902 101 212, w www.telentrada.com.
There are temporary exhibitions, Antoni Gauds weird apartment
a library and a good book and building at the top of Passeig de
gift shop on the lower floor, and Grcia is simply not to be missed
a terrace caf upstairs.The though you can expect queues
museum also hosts a full whenever you visit. Built as the
programme of study sessions, Casa Mil between 1905 and
Contents Places
127
1911 but popularly known as administered by the Fundaci
La Pedrera,the stone quarry Caixa de Catalunya.Through
its rippled facade, curving around the grand main entrance of the
the street corner in one smooth building you can access the
sweep, is said to have been Fundacis first-floor

inspired by the mountain of exhibition hall (daily
Montserrat, while the apartments 10am8pm; free; guided visits
themselves, whose balconies of MonFri at 6pm), which hosts
tangled metal drip over the temporary art shows of works
facade, resemble eroded cave by major international artists.
dwellings. Indeed, theres not a
straight line to be seen hence Vinon
the contemporary joke that the Entrances at Pg. de Grcia 96,
new tenants would only be able c/Provena 273 and c/Pau Claris 175
to keep snakes as pets.The self- t 932 156 050, w www.vincon.com.
guided visit includes a trip up to MonSat 10am2pm & 4.308.30pm.
the extraordinary terrace to see Right next to La Pedrera, the
at close quarters the enigmatic Vinon store emerged in the
chimneys, as well as an 1960s as the countrys pre-
informative exhibition about eminent purveyor of furniture
Gauds work displayed under the and design. Pioneered by
brick arches of the attic.El Pis Fernando Amat, known as the
on the buildings fourth floor Spanish Terence Conran, the
recreates the design and style of shop is filled to the brim with
an early twentieth-century stylish and original household
apartment. Perhaps the best items. Apart from checking out
experience of all is La Pedrera de the extraordinary furniture
Nit, when you can enjoy the floor, which gives access to a
rooftop and night-time cityscape terrace with views of La
with a complimentary cava and Pedrera, try and make time for
music advance booking is La Sala Vinon (open same hours
essential. as the store).This is Vinons
La Pedrera is still split into exhibition hall and art gallery,
private apartments and is which puts on shows of new
PALAU ROBERT design and furniture.
Palau Robert
Pg. de Grcia 107 t 932 384 000,
w www.gencat.net/probert. MonSat
10am7pm, Sun 10am2.30pm. Free.
The information centre for the
region of Catalunya hosts
regularly changing exhibitions
on all matters Catalan, from art
to business. Its also an
important concert venue for
recitals and orchestras, while the
pretty gardens around the back
are a popular meeting point for
the local nannies and their
charges.The office inside is a
handy place to pick up local
touring and accommodation
Contents Places
128
information, and theres a gift century Gothic church and
and bookshop in the former cloister of La Concepci once
carriage courtyard that opens off stood in the old town, part of a
Passeig de Grcia. convent abandoned in the early
nineteenth century and then
Casa de les Punxes transferred here brick by brick in

Avgda. Diagonal 416420. No public the 1870s.The adjacent market
access. Architect Puig i was built in 1888, its iron-and-
Cadafalchs largest work, the glass tram-shed structure
soaring Casa Terrades, is more reminiscent of others in the city.
usually known as the Casa de les Flowers and plants a
Punxes (House of Spikes) Concepci speciality spill out
because of its red-tiled turrets of the entrance on c/de Valencia,
and steep gables. Built in 1903 and there are a couple of good
for three sisters, and converted snack bars just inside the market.
from three separate houses
spreading around an entire
corner of a block, the Shops
crenellated structure is almost
northern European in style, Antonio Mir
reminiscent of a Gothic castle. C/Consell de Cent 349 t 934 870 670,
w www.antoniomiro.es; plus Groc,
Rambla de Catalunya 100 t 932 150
180. The showcase for Barcelonas
most innovative designer,Antonio
Mir, especially good for classy
mens suits.There are Mir
designs, shoes and denim for men
and women, plus other labels, at
the Groc outlet.
Armand Basi
Pg. de Grcia 49 t 932 151 421,
w www.armandbasi.com. Colourful
CASA DE LES PUNXES
mens and womens clothes,
Casa Elizalde jackets and accessories from the
C/de Valencia 302 t 934 880 590. hot Spanish designer.
MonFri 58pm, Sat & Sun 11am2pm
& 58pm. The Dretas nicest BD Ediciones de Diseo
intimate venue hosts regular C/Mallorca 291 t 934 586 909,
exhibitions and film shows about w www.bdlove.com. A design
modernisme and related themes. showroom at the cutting edge
Classical concerts are also held of Barcelona style.The building
here, usually with low-cost or (Casa Thomas) is by Domnech
free entry check the posters at i Montaner, the interior filled
the entrance for details. with the very latest in furniture
and household design.
Mercat de la Concepci
Between c/de Valencia and c/dArag Bulevard Rosa
t 934 575 329, w www.laconcepcio Pg. de Grcia 55, entrances on Rambla
.com. Mon 8am3pm, TuesFri Catalunya, c/de Valencia and c/dArago
8am8pm, Sat 8am4pm; July & Aug t 933 090 650, w www.bulevardrosa
closes at 3pm. The early fifteenth- .com. Barcelonas first shopping
Contents Places
129
arcade features over one dispensers, knives and forks to
hundred shops, specializing in bouncy chairs) at accessible
chic designer gear, shoes and prices.
accessories.
Joaqun Berao

Casa del Llibre Rambla de Catalunya 74 t 932 150
Pg. de Grcia 62 t 932 723 840, 091, w www.joaquinberao.com.
w www.casadellibro.com. This is Avant-garde jewellery by a
Barcelonas biggest book Madrid designer in a beautifully
emporium, strong on literature, presented shop.
humanities and travel, with lots
of English titles.Theres a caf at Laie
the back. C/Pau Claris 85 t 933 181 739,
w www.laie.es. The Eixamples
Colmado Quilez favourite bookshop, with an
Rambla de Catalunya 63 t 932 152 excellent selection of humanities
356. A classic Catalan grocery, and literature, and lots of
windows and shelves piled high English-language titles.Take a
with tins, preserves, bottles, jars break in the upstairs caf-
and packets, plus a groaning restaurant (see p.130).
xarcuteria counter.
Mandarina Duck
Dom Pg. de Grcia 44 t 932 720 364.
C/de Provena 249 t 934 871 181, Funky, colourful travel bags,
w www.id-dom.com. Original, backpacks, handbags and other
amusing household and personal carriers.
items (alarm clocks to olive-oil
Mango
FLOWERS AT MERCAT DE LA CONCEPCI
Pg. de Grcia 810 t 934 121 599 and
Pg. de Grcia 65 t 932 157 530, plus
others, w www.mango.com. Now
available worldwide, Barcelona is
where high-street fashion chain
Mango began (and prices here
are cheaper than in North
America and other European
countries).
Muxart
C/Rossell 230 t 934 881 064, and
423, w www.muxart.com. Barcelonas
top-class shoe designer, pricey
gems for men and women.
Zara
Pg. de Grcia 16 t 933 187 675,
868, plus others, w www.zara.com.
Trendy but cheap seasonal
fashion from the Spanish chain,
now with shops in over forty
countries.
Contents Places
130
Restaurants and
tapas bars
ba-ba-reeba
Pg. de Grcia 28 t 933 014 302. Daily
7.30am1.30am. A big range of
tapas, from all corners of Spain,
spreads along a twenty-metre
bar in this slick, industrial-sized
operation. It sees a lot of
business- and shopping-traffic,
and caters for all needs from
breakfast to supper time and
beyond.
HOTEL RITZ DOORMAN
Bodegueta
Cafs Rambla Catalunya 100 t 932 154 894.
Daily 8am2am; closed mornings in
Forn de Sant Jaume Aug. Long-established basement
Rambla de Catalunya 50 t 932 160 bodega with cava by the glass, a
229. MonSat 9am9pm. Glittering serious range of other wines,
windows piled high with and good ham, cheese,
goodies from this classic old anchovies and other tapas to
patisseria and bomboneria soak it all up.
croissants, cakes and sweets,
either to take away or eat at the Casa Calvet
adjacent caf. C/de Casp 48 t 934 124 012.
MonSat 13.30pm & 8.3011.30pm.
Laie Llibreria Caf Dining in Gauds wonderfully
C/Pau Claris 85 t 933 027 310. decorated Casa Calvet is a glam
MonFri 9am1am, Sat 10am1am. night out. A seasonally
Head up the stairs in front of changing, modern Catalan
the bookshop, either to the bar menu runs the gamut from
and mezzanine seating or the simple (shrimp with home-
roomier salon at the back under made pasta and parmesan) to
bamboo matting.The buffet elaborate (duck livers with a
breakfast spread is popular, and balsamic vinegar reduction), and
there are set lunch and dinner the desserts some of which
deals, a la carte dining, and you have to order on arrival
magazines to browse. are an artwork in themselves.
From around e50 plus drinks;
Valor reservations advised.
246. MonThurs 8.30am1pm & Ciudad Condal
3.3011pm, FriSun 9ammidnight. Rambla de Catalunya 18 t 933 181
Ornate uptown chocolate 997. Daily 7.30am1.30am. Breakfast
specialist, serving the gentle folk sees the bar groan under the
since 1881. A warming hot choc weight of a dozen types of
and xurros (doughnut sticks) crispy baguette sandwich, piled
sends you happily on your way high on platters, supplemented
on a chilly morning. by a cabinet of croissants and
Contents Places
131
pastries, while the tapas Muscleria
selection ranges far and wide: C/Mallorca 290 t 934 589 844.
patatas bravas to octopus. MonFri 14pm & 8.30pmmidnight,
Sat 8.30pm1am. Barcelonas
East 47 mussels specialist, with a score of

Hotel Claris, c/Pau Claris 150 t 934 sauces/toppings on pots and
874 647. Daily 14pm & 811.30pm. platters, accompanied by some
The hip hotel features an of the best fries in the city for
equally cutting-edge restaurant, around e10 a serving. Sauted
serving creative Mediterranean clams, octopus or deep-fried
cuisine under the gaze of a line squid are offered as starters, and
of Warhol self-portraits.The there are a few salad-and-snack
beautifully presented dishes mix plates offered, but basically if
flavours with seeming abandon bivalves dont appeal youre in
like salad leaves with crispy the wrong place.
bamboo, or coffee-scented cod
while the fearsomely Mussol
fashionable staff work hard at C/Arag 261 t 934 876 151; branch at
making you feel at home. c/de Casp 19 t 933 017 610. Meals
Expect to spend e70 and daily 1pm1am. Big rustic diners
upwards. Reservations advised. of the type thats all the rage in
the city, known
for their meat
and vegetables
a la brasa, most
of which run
between e5
and e10.
Calots (big
spring onions)
are a spring
speciality, while
snails (cargols)
are on the
UPTOWN SHOPPING MALL menu all year round. It opens
early for sandwich-and-croissant
Japons breakfasts for city workers.
Ptge. de la Concepci 2 t 934 872
592, w www.grupotragaluz.com ONabo de Lugo
/japones. MonThurs & Sun 1.304pm C/de Pau Claris 169 t 932 153 047.
& 8.30pmmidnight, Fri & Sat MonSat 14pm & 8.30pmmidnight.
1.304pm & 8pm1am. Designer A la carte meals in this
style gunmetal grey interior, renowned Galician seafood
staff-in-black service at restaurant can easily top e50,
moderate prices gives this but the budget-conscious can
minimalist Japanese restaurant enjoy a three-course lunch for a
the edge over its more mere e10 (even less if you eat
traditional rivals.Tick your in the bar), drink included.
choices from the long menu and Thick, meaty broth usually
hand it to the waiter; average figures, and simple standards like
meal cost is around e2025 a botifarra and potatoes for more
head. choice (and for some fish), trade
up to the e16.50 men especial.
Contents Places
132
Thai Gardens croissant to a filling meal. Snack
C/Diputaci 273 t 934 879 898. Daily downstairs on tapas and torrades,
1.304pm & 8.30midnight, until 1am or head upstairs for Catalan
at weekends. Enjoy an excellent brasserie food, including meat,
Thai set lunch (MonFri only), fish and seasonal vegetables
or an all-out menu degustaci for straight from the grill.

e30 an English-language
menu smooths the way, offering
things like a creamy prawn and Bars
vegetable curry or fiery lamb
strips cooked in Thai basil. Cervesera Artesana
C/Sant Agusti 14 t 932 379 594,
Tragaluz w www.lacervesera.net. MonSat
Ptge. de la Concepci 5 t 934 870 6pm1am. Catalan brew-pub
621, w www.grupotragaluz.com serving a house IPA (Iberian
/tragaluz. Daily 1.304pm & Pale Ale) and stout, plus a
8.30pmmidnight, until 1pm ThursSat. whole host of other speciality
Attracts beautiful people by the and bottled beers.
score, and the classy
Mediterranean-with-knobs-on Les Gens Que Jaime
cooking, served under a glass C/Valencia 286 t 932 156 879. Daily
roof (tragaluz means skylight), 7pm2.30am. It takes your eyes a
doesnt disappoint. Mains are while to adjust as you descend
from e18, though cheaper eats into the intimate fin-de-sicle
are served downstairs courtesy of interior of red velvet seats,
the Tragarapid menu (dishes dimmed lights and soulful mood
e68, served daily music. As a refuge from the club
1pmmidnight), where things scene, its very pleasant for a
like blinis, fajitas or a club relaxing drink.
sandwich cater for those fresh
off the modernista trail (La
Pedrera is just across the way). Clubs
Tramoia Mond Club
Rambla de Catalunya 15 t 934 123 Sala Cibeles, c/Corsega 363 t 932 720
634. Daily 7.30am1.30am. 910, w www.mondclub.com. Fri
Fashionable multi-space eatery 12.306am. Old ballroom
for anything from a coffee and converted into stylish Friday-
UPTOWN TAPAS BAR
night club, with a bit of
everything
thrown into the
mix punk,
glam, electronica
and guest DJs.
The pre-club
sister bar is
Mond Bar, in
nearby Grcia
(Pl. del Sol 21;
daily 8.30pm
3am), where
pop will make
us free.
Contents Places
133
Sagrada Famlia and

Glries
PLACES Sagrada Famlia and Glries

The easternmost reaches of the Eixample are dominated
by the one building that is an essential stop on any visit
to Barcelona Antoni Gauds great church of the
Sagrada Famlia. In many ways this has become a kind of
symbol for the city, representing the glory of Catalan
design and endeavour. Most visitors make a special jour-
ney out by metro to see the church and then head
straight back into the centre, but its worth diverting the
few blocks south to the area known as Glries for a fur-
ther set of attractions, including the citys biggest flea
market and Catalunyas flagship national theatre building.
Sagrada Famlia War, Gauds plans and models
C/Mallorca 401, entrance on c/de la were destroyed in 1936 by the
Marina t 932 073 031, w www anarchists, who regarded the
.sagradafamilia.org. Daily: AprilSept church as a conservative religious
9am8pm; OctMarch 9am6pm. e8, relic.Work restarted in the late
or e11 including guided tour. The 1950s amid great controversy,
overpowering church of the with some maintaining that the
Sagrada Famlia (Sacred SAGRADA FAMLIA
Family) occupies an entire city
block between c/de Mallorca and
c/de Provena the metro drops
you right outside. Begun in 1882
on a modest scale, the 31-year-
old architect Antoni Gaud took
charge of the project two years
later and changed its scale
immediately, seeing in the
Sagrada Famlia an opportunity
to reflect his own deepening
spiritual feelings. He spent the
rest of his life working on the
church and was adapting the
plans ceaselessly right up to his
untimely death. Run over by a
tram on June 7, 1926, his death
was treated as a Catalan national
disaster, and all of Barcelona
turned out for his funeral
procession.
By the time of Gauds death
only one facade of the Sagrada
Famlia was complete. Although
the building survived the Civil
Contents Places
134
BERGNES DE LAS CASAS

CAFS, TAPAS AND N
CARRER DE
RESTAURANTS
Arco Iris 3
Bar Gaud 2 T R A V E S S
Gorra 4 E R A D E G R A C I A
Piazzenza 1
Sagrada Famlia and Glries PLACES
PADILLA
SARDENYA
CARRER DE SANT ANTONI MARIA CLARET
J O A N
PA S S AT G E D A L I O
LLAVALLOLL
GRASSO
M A R I N A
PTGE.DE
Jardins de la
DE
Industria
F L O R
LA INDUS TR IA
CARRER
C AR R ER DE
S A N T
DISCLE SOLER
DEN
PTGE.
PTGE
L A
DE
DE TORRES
D E
N A P O L S
L E P A N T
D E
D E
CARRER
C A R R E R D E C O R S E G A
R O G E R
CARRER
A
C A R R E R
P A S S E I G
D
PTGE. DEL MARINER
PTGE
U
CORADINO 1
G
S I C I L I A
N
D E L R O S S E L L O
D E
C A R R E R
I
V
A
D E
PTGE. DE
C A R R E R
ROGER DE FLOR
D E
PTGE SIMO
SAGRADA FAMILIA
M
C A R R E R
C A R R E R
C A R R E R D E P R O V E N A
M
PLACA PLAA Mercat
Casa Sagrada
D E
DE LA DE de la 2
Macaya SAGRADA Famlia GAUD Sagrada
FA M I L I A
M Famlia
C A R R E R D E M A L L O R C A
PTGE. DE MAIOL
C A R R E R
PTGE. DE FONT
A V 3 PTGE. DE GAIOLA
I N
G U
JOAN
D A C A R R E R D E V A L E N C I A
D I
A G
FLOR
PTGE. DE BOFILL
O N
SANT
A L
CARRER D ARAGO CARRER D ARAGO
DE
NAPOLS
DE
ROGER
PASSEIG
C AR R ER DEL C ONS ELL DE C ENT

CARRER DE LA MARINA
DE
DE
PASSATGE DE TASSO MONUMENTAL

CARRER
CARRER
SARDENYA
4 M M
C A R R E R D E L A D I P U T A C I O
Plaza de
PASSATGE DE BOCABELLA PASSATGE DE PAGES Toros &
PLACA DE Museo
TETUAN Taurno
G R A N V I A D E L E S C O R T S C ATA L A N E S
CARRER DE SICILIA
M
DE
LEPANT
PLAA TETUN
CARRER
S
BE
RI
CARRER DE
C AR R ER DE C AS P
DE
ER
RR
CA
CARRER DE AUSIAS MARC
0 200 m L Auditori
Contents Places
135
CARRER DE SANT CAROLINA
CARRER DE LA TORRE VELEZ
PASSATGE DE FLAUGIER
CARRER DE ROSALIA DE CASTRO
CASANOVAS
PTGE
CARRER DEL TROBADOR

Hospital de la
CASTILLEJOS
Santa Creu

i de Sant Pau
CARRER DE SANT ANTONI MARIA CLARET
PTGE. DE
ST.PAU
SANT QUINTI
CARTAGENA
DE MAIG
PASSATGE DEL
CONCA
PTGE. DE VALLS
NUNA DOS DE MAIG
PTGE.
INDUS TR IA
I
C AR R ER DE LA
D
HOSPITAL DE
CARRER DE
CARRER DE
Hospital M
PASSITAGE DE
DE CATALUNYA
U
SANT PAU
PASSATAGE
de la
ROURA
A
CARRER DEL DOS
PTGE. DE LA
Creu
G
INDEPENCIA
DE
LOS
Roja
E
D
CARRER DE CORSEGA A
CARRER
ER
E R GU
DE
E S PA
PASSATGE DE
F R DE
CORSEGA
L I
PTGE.DE CANADELL D E O AN I VEH
E R L J LL
R R DE CO
CARR
CARRER
C A ER DE
C. DEL
X I F R E
RR ER
CA RR
ER DE
INDEPENDENCIA
CA R
RRE
C. DE JOSEPA MASS
CARRER DE
CA
PISTO
LA M
CARRER DEL ROSSELLO
PLACA
UNTA
DE CAN RE
CAR
R O G E N T
LLAGOSTERA
ROBECOLS
NYA
PTGE. DE CARSI PTGE.DE LON
D E
AU
ANS
E P EZ ATGE
E.D ND PASS LESOLA
PTG RN D AN
G
C A R R E R
HE CARRER DEL DEGA BAHI

C A R R E R D E P R O V E N A
D E
PASSA
PASSATGE DE
C A R R E R
CARRER DE LOS CASTILLEJOS
CENTELLES
CARRER DE CARTAGENA
LA
TGE D
CARRER DE PADILLA
C AR R ER DE MALLOR C A
E VILA
DE
C AR R ER DE B A S S OLS
ET R
CARRER
ENCANTS
M
CARRER DE VALENCIA
CARRER DEL DOS DE MAIG
N
A
S
O R AT
I
NAM
D
ER DE E CLOT
I
CARR
R
M
E
M
C A R R E R D A R A G O
A
ORATS
D
ENAM
U
DE
CARRER
G
N
O T
I
V
C L
A
C A R R E R D E L C O N S E L L D E C E N T L
D E
CAR BANYA
JOANCASAS
CA
PTGE. DE
RER L
COR
E R
CAR EL SA
DEL
Els Encants DE N
ON
R R ER
HER
RR GTO
RER NFE
S
CAR N CORT
CA SHIN
AV C A RO
NA
WA PE
DEL LIU
ING A
RER
CL
UD RS
LT O
D S
A D

CU Parc del
IA ES

GO LS Clot
NA DE
L RR
ER
CA
PLAA DE LES GRAN VIA DE LES CORTS CANTALANES

GLRIES
DE GRANADA
CARRER DE PAMPLONA
CATALANES
LLAC UNA
Centre
Comercial Barcelona
Glries
CARRER DE ZAMORA
GLORIES
M AV
Teatre
M IN
CARRER D ALABA
M GU CARRER DEL PERU

C ARRER DE B ADAJOZ
Nacional DA
A
N
LA
de Torre Agbar
CARRER D AVILA
IA
DI
CARRER DE LA CIUTAT
AG
ID
Catalunya
C ARRER
ER
ON
M
AL
A
CARRER DE BOLIVA
D
U
G
EN
AV
Contents Places
136
recognizable church
interior is starting to
take shape, and if you
take the elevator
(e2) up one of the
towers around the

rose window, youll
be rewarded by
partial views of the
city through an
extraordinary jumble
of latticed stonework,
ceramic decoration,
carved buttresses and
sculpture.Theres also
access to the crypt,
MOSAIC DETAIL, HOSPITAL DE LA SANT where a small
CREU I DE SANT PAU
museum (opening times as for
Sagrada Famlia should be left the church) traces Gauds career
incomplete as a memorial to and the history of the church.
Gaud, others that the architect Models, sketches and
intended it to be the work of photographs help to make some
several generations. As the project sense of the continuing project,
draws inexorably towards and you can view the sculptors
realization (current projections and model-makers at work.The
predict a completion date of guided tours run hourly
around 2017), a fresh set of between April and October,
arguments has arisen as to how reduced to four daily from
to wrap the whole thing up Friday to Monday between
whether to continue with the November and March.
original grandiose design or to
go for a quicker but more Hospital de la Santa Creu i
modest alternative. de Sant Pau
Gauds plan was to build a C/de Sant Antoni Maria Claret 167
church capable of seating over t 934 882 078, w www.santpau.es.
10,000 people. Eight spires Tours in English/Spanish, Sat & Sun
symbolic of the apostles rise 10am2pm, every 30min. e4.20.
to over 100m: Gaud planned to Domnech i Montaners
build four more and to add a innovative public hospital
170-metre tower topped with a (190110) is possibly the one
lamb (representing Jesus) over building that can touch the
the transept. A precise Sagrada Famlia for harmony,
symbolism also pervades the size and invention. Craftsmen
facades, each of which is divided adorned every inch with
into three porches devoted to sculpture, mosaics, stained glass
faith, hope and charity. Gaud and ironwork, while much of
made extensive use of human, the actual business of running a
plant and animal models in hospital was hidden away in
order to produce exactly the underground corridors, which
likenesses he sought for the connect the buildings together.
buildings sculptural groups. The modernista hospital buildings
In reality the place looks like a are now deemed to have served
giant building site, but a their purpose; behind them
Contents Places
137
spreads the high-tech central Els Encants
block of the new hospital, due C/Dos de Maig t 932 463 030. Mon,
to be fully operational by 2006. Wed, Fri & Sat 9am6pm; plus Dec
The pavilions will then probably 1Jan 5 Sun 9am3pm. An absolute
be turned over to educational or must for flea-market addicts, the

cultural use (a Museum of open-air Els Encants properly
Medicine is mooted), though in the Mercat Fira de Bellcaire
the meantime there are guided takes up the entire block below
tours of the complex, which can c/Consell de Cent.You name it,
tell you more about the 600- you can buy it: old sewing
year history of the hospital. machines, cheese graters,
photograph albums, cutlery,
Casa Macaya lawnmowers, piles of clothes,
Pg. de Sant Joan 108. Just four shoes and CDs, antiques,
blocks from the Sagrada Famlia, furniture and out-and-out junk.
Josep Puig i Cadafalchs palatial Go in the morning to see it at
Casa Macaya (18981900) is a its best. Haggling is de rigueur,
superbly ornamental town but youre up against the
house with a Gothic-inspired experts.
courtyard and canopied staircase
from which griffins spring. Its Plaa de les Glries
rich in imaginative exterior Catalanes
carvings by craftsman Eusebi Barcelonas major avenues all
Arnau, who included an angel meet at the unkempt swirling
holding a camera and a tiny traffic-circle-cum-park whose
figure riding a bicycle among dedicatory plaques celebrate the
the more orthodox medieval Catalan glories, from
symbols.The house is now in modernisme to Gothic
use as an exhibition space. architecture.The park itself
ELS ENCANTS
(currently undergoing
remodelling) is at the centre of
the citys latest wave of
regeneration.Towering above is
Jean Nouvels cigar-shaped
Torre Agbar, a distinctive
aluminium-and-glass tower
inspired by the rocky
protuberances of Montserrat. At
142m high, its the third largest
building in the city. Avinguda
Diagonal shoots off to the
southeast, with its new tram
service running down to the
Diagonal Mar district, while
across Gran Via de les Corts
Catalanes the play and park
areas of Parc del Clot show
what can be done in an urban
setting within the remains of a
razed factory site.
Contents Places
138
Teatre Nacional de Catalunya Catalunya (OBC), whose
Pl. de les Arts 1 t 933 065 700, weekend concert season runs
w www.tnc.es. Box office open Mon from September to May. Many
noon3pm & 49pm, TuesSat other concerts take place here
noon9pm, Sun noon6pm. year-round, including chamber
Catalunyas National Theatre pieces, music for children and

was specifically conceived as a performances under the auspices
venue to promote Catalan of the annual autumn
productions, and features a Contemporary Music Festival.
repertory programme of Its also hoped that the citys
translated classics (such as music museum (currently
Shakespeare in Catalan), original closed) will be relocated here.
works and productions by guest Under-26s with ID get fifty
companies from elsewhere in percent discount on all tickets,
Europe.The building itself an hour before the
makes a dramatic statement, performance.The Bus de les
designed by Ricardo Bofill and Arts runs back to Plaa de
presenting the neighbourhood Catalunya after concerts.
with a soaring glass box encased
within a Greek temple on a Plaza de Toros Monumental
raised dais, surrounded by and Museo Taurino
manicured lawns.There are Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 749
guided building and backstage t 932 455 804. Museum: MonSat
tours for anyone interested in 10.30am2pm & 47pm, Sun
learning more (Tues,Wed & Fri 11am1pm; e4. Bullfights: AprilSept,
at 10am, 11am & noon; e1.50; usually Sun at 7pm; e1575. The
reservations required). citys only surviving working
bullring provides a taste of
LAuditori Andalucia with its brick facade,
C/Lepant 150 t 932 479 300, Moorish egg-shaped domes,
w www.auditori.org. Box office open polychromatic decoration and
MonSat noon9pm, Sun 1hr before sol y sombra (sun and shade)
concert. The citys main seating sections. Its not a
contemporary concert hall, built pastime with much of a
in 1999, is home to the following in Barcelona and,
Orquestra Simfnica de tellingly, the ring is one part of
Barcelona i Nacional de the city where not a word of
TEATRE NACIONAL DE CATALUNYA
Contents Places
139
Catalan is seen. Bullfight
costumes, posters, photographs Restaurants and
and the stuffed heads of
vanquished bulls occupy the tapas bars
small museum (enter at corner

with c/de la Marina), while an Arco Iris
overhead walkway outside the C/Roger de Flor 216 t 934 582 283.
ring provides a view into the MonSat 14pm; closed Aug. Simple
bull pens. caf serving a four-course
lunchtime veggie men del dia
for around e9 (drinks extra).
Shops Typically, youll start with a
cream of vegetable soup or
Centre Comercial Barcelona consomm, and finish with fresh
Glries fruit.
Avgda. Diagonal 208, at Pl. de les
Glries Catalanes t 934 860 404, Gorra
w www.lesglories.com. Huge 230- C/de la Diputacio 421 t 932 451 164,
store mall with all the national w www.restaurantegorria.com.
high-street fashion names MonSat 13.30pm & 911.30pm;
(H&M, Zara, Bershka, Mango) closed Aug. This elegant family-
as well as childrens wear, toys owned restaurant serves the
and games, ice-cream parlours, a finest seasonal Basque cuisine,
dozen bars, cafs and restaurants like pochas de Sanguesa (a sort of
(open daily 10am1am) and a white-bean stew), clams and
seven-screen cinema complex. hake in salsa verde, or wood-
grilled lamb and suckling pig.
Prices are on the high side
Cafs (around e50 a head), but this is
regional Spanish cooking of the
Bar Gaud highest order.
Mercat de la Sagrada Famlia, c/de
Padilla 255; no phone. TuesThurs Piazzenza
7am2pm & 5.308.30pm, Fri Avgda. Gaud 2729 t 934 363 817.
7am8.30pm, Sat 7am3pm. Only Daily 1pm1am; closed 2 weeks in
two blocks east of the Sagrada Aug. A reliable standby just five
Famlia and not a tourist in minutes walk from the Sagrada
sight.The stand-up market bar Famlia.There are tapas and
has pastries, sandwiches and drinks, and good-sized pizzas,
tapas at local prices, and an served outdoors in summer, and
internal courtyard with a small you can eat for around e15.
childrens playground.
Contents Places
140
Esquerra de lEixample
The long streets west of Rambla de Catalunya as far as
Barcelona Sants train station making up the Esquerra
Esquerra de lEixample PLACES
de lEixample are perhaps the least visited on any city

sightseeing trip. With all the major architectural high-
lights found on the Eixamples eastern (or right-hand)
side, the Esquerra (left-hand side) was intended by its
nineteenth-century planners for public buildings and
institutions, many of which still stand. However, the
Esquerra does have its moments of interest not least
in an eye-catching public park or two while its here
that some of the citys best bars and clubs are found,
particularly in the gay-friendly streets of the so-called
Gaixample district, near the university.
Universitat de Barcelona Escola Industrial
Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 585, at Corner of c/del Comte dUrgell and
Pl. de la Universitat t 934 021 100, c/del Rossello. The Battl textile
w www.ub.es. Built in the 1860s, mill underwent major
the Neoclassical university refurbishment in 1908 to
building is now mainly used for emerge as the Escola Industrial.
ceremonies and administration It occupies four entire Eixample
purposes, but no one minds if blocks, with later academic
you stroll through the main buildings added in the 1920s,
doors.Theres usually an including a chapel by Joan
exhibition in the echoing main Rubi i Bellvr, who worked
hall, while beyond lie two fine with Antoni Gaud. Students
arcaded courtyards and extensive usually fill the courtyards, and
gardens. youre free to take a stroll
PARC DE LESPANYA INDUSTRIAL
through to view the highly
decorative buildings.
Museu i Centre
dEstudis de lEsport
C/de Buenos Aires 5658 t 934
192 232. MonFri 10am2pm &
48pm. Free. Built as the
Casa Companys in 1911
by Josep Puig i Cadafalch,
the little cream-coloured
house contains probably
the most unassuming
sporting Hall of Fame
found anywhere in the
world. In a couple of
quiet, wood-panelled
rooms photographs of
1920s Catalan rally drivers
and footballers are
Contents Places
IA CU BI 141
C AR RER GR AN DE
PLAA PLAA DE LA
AV
Jean- GRACIA LEspai de
TRAVESSERA DE
LLIBERTAT
ING
N
FRANCESC
0 300 m MACIA 1 Pierre Bua Dansa i Msica
UD
Camper
AD
AV 2
DE BALMAS
IN
CARRER
DE TUSET
CARRER DE BUENOS AIRES
ES
GUSTA
Filmoteca
CARRER
GU
AR
CARRER COMTE D'URGELL

PLAA DEL CENTRE
AS Museu Centre D A
RIA
M DI
LL
U
AG
CARRER DE NICARAGUA
DE C AR R ER DE LONDR ES dEstudis de lEsport
VIA A
CAR
CARRER DE NUMANCIA
RER ON
A
CARRER CASANOVA
DE R AL
BERLI
N AR Escola
PT
C DE
C DE
ROB
REN Industrial C AR R ER D E PAR IS Urbana Pilma
OS
YO
E
MEL
PLACES Esquerra de lEixample

CARRER DE MUNTANER
CIOR
CARRER DE VILADOMAT
J
CARRER D'ARIBAU
CARRER DE D'ENRIC GRANADOS

DE PA 3 4
LAU
R DE C AR R ER DE C OR S EGA CARRER DE CORSEGA
RE
R Preso ENTENA PROVENA
Barcelona SANTS- CA Model M M
M
Sants M ESTACI CARRER DEL ROSSELLO HOSPITAL CARRER DEL ROSSELLO M
CLINIC
CARRER DE BALMES
PLAA 5 6
PASOS
CATALANS CARRER DE PROVENA Hospital C PROVENA
C SANT AN Parc de
CARRER D'ENTENA
CARRER DE CALABRIA
CARRER DE ROCAFORT
TONI Clinic 7
C MALLORCA lEspanya CARRER DE MALLORCA CARRER DE MALLORCA
DOMINGO
PTGE CAMPS
Industrial
R TRIADO
PTGE
C
DELISI
8
AVI 9
C DE LLANCA
Pilma NGU CARRER DE VALENCIA

TARRAGONA DA
DEL RECTO
11 DE 10
ROM
RAMBLA DE CATALUNYA
C SA M
CARRER DE MUNTANER
NT N PLAA DE
A
CARRER D'ARIBAU
ICOLAU
CARRER D'ARAGO DOCTOR M P
CARRER DE VILLARROEL
CARRER COMTE D'URGELL
CARRER DE BALMES
CARRER CASANOVA
12 DE
CARRER D'ENTENA
LEFAMENDI
C DE TARRAGONA
Parc 13 Cas
R
CARRE
14
Joan Cas
CR
CARRER CONSELL DEL CENT

EU
Mir 15 Mo
CO
16 17
BE
CARRER DE LA DIPUTACIO
Casa
RT
A
PASSEIG DE
PLAA Papallona 18 GRCIA
D'ESPANYA Les GRAN VIA DE M LES CORTS CATALANES M Universitat G
M
PLAA DE LA Altair M
Arenes ROCAFORT URGELL de Barcelona UNIVERSITAT 19
M M RON
M DA U 20
ESPANYA UNIVERSITAT NIVE
CARRER DE SEPULVEDA RSIT
AT El
21
CARRER DE FLORIDABLANCACARRER
CB
ERG
M
In
PLAA DE
CD ACATALUNYA
RA
CAFS, TAPAS AND RESTAURANTS BARS AND CLUBS EL
ST
LAtzavara 7 Flauta 16 Aire Sala Diana 10 Dietrich 13 Metro El 21
AL
LE M
Barrils 8 Fresc Co. 20 Barcelona 11 Dry Martini 4 Triangle14

Oui Caf
Pl. PortalAntilla
RS
de la Pau Las Rambla
Berriketa 19 Arena Madre 17 Fira 6 Punto BCN 12
Cata 181 9 Airena Classic 17 La Boite 1 Quilombo 3
Cubanito 15 Arena VIP 18 Luz de Gas 2 Sante Caf 5
displayed alongside a varied their original language, marked

collection of memorabilia, from a V.O.) every day.Theres a
signed waterpolo ball used in the childrens club (sessi infantil) on
1992 Olympics to Everest Sunday, and a decent caf
mountaineer Carles Vlles ice attached to the cinema.Tickets
pick. are around e3, or you can buy a
discounted pass allowing entry
LEspai de Dansa i Msica to ten films.
Trav. de Grcia 63 t 934 143 133. Box
office open MonSat 6.3010pm, Sun Parc de lEspanya Industrial
59pm. The dance and music C/de Sant Antoni. Daily 10amdusk.
space is the citys best bet for Basque architect Luis Pea
contemporary dance Gancheguis urban park lies
performances, bolstered by a 2min walk around the southern
varied programme of concerts side of Barcelona Sants station.
by Catalan and other regional Built on the site of an old textile
soloists and music groups. factory, it has a line of red-and-
yellow-striped concrete
Filmoteca lighthouses at the top of glaring
Avgda. de Sarri 33 t 934 107 590, white steps with an
w http://cultura.gencat.es/filmo. Run incongruously classical Neptune
by the Catalan government, the in the water below. Altogether,
Filmoteca has an excellent six sculptors are represented here
cinema programme, showing and, along with the boating lake,
three or four different films caf kiosk, playground and sports
(often foreign, and usually in facilities provided, the park takes
Contents Places
142
a decent stab at reconciling local c/de Llana, you can view one
interests with the mundane of the citys favourite house
nature of the surroundings. facades, namely the huge ceramic
butterfly crowning the six-storey
Parc Joan Mir modernista Casa Papallona
C/de Tarragona. Daily 10amdusk. (1912).

Parc Joan Mir was laid out on
the site of the nineteenth-
century municipal Shops
slaughterhouse. It features a
bare, raised piazza whose only Altair
feature is Joan Mirs gigantic Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 616
mosaic sculpture Dona i Ocell t 933 427 171, w www.altair.es.
(Woman and Bird), towering Travel books, guides, maps and
above a shallow reflecting pool. world music, plus a programme
The rear of the park is given of travel-related talks and
over to games areas and exhibitions.
landscaped sections of palms and
firs, with a kiosk caf and some Camper
outdoor tables found in among C/Muntaner 248 t 932 013 188, and
the trees.The childrens others, w www.camper.com. Spains
playground here is one of the favourite shoe store opened its
best in the city, with a climbing first shop in Barcelona in 1981.
frame and aerial runway as well Providing hip, well-made, casual
as swings and slides. city footwear at a good price
has been the cornerstone of its
Les Arenes success.
Pl. dEspanya. The traditional
bullring backing Parc Joan Mir Jean-Pierre Bua
is undergoing a massive Richard Avgda. Diagonal 469 t 934 397 100,
Rogers-inspired refit, to convert w www.jeanpierrebua.com. The citys
it into a leisure and retail temple for fashion victims: a
complex with enormous roof postmodern shrine for
terrace, while retaining the Yamamoto, Gaultier, Miyake,
circular Moorish facade of 1900. McCartney,Westwood, Mir
To the side of the bullring, on and other international stars.
BARCELONA SANTS TRAIN STATION
Contents Places
143
Pilma including chistorra (spicy sausage)
Avgda. Diagonal 403 t 934 161 399, from Pamplona. Txacol (Basque
and c/de Valencia 1 t 932 260 676, white wine) is the stuff to drink
w www.pilma.com. Inspiring venues with it.Theres a restaurant
for stylish household furniture, (14pm & 8.30pmmidnight)

lighting, and kitchen and too, with grill-house specialities
bathroom goods and accessories. and a e12 men del dia.
Urbana Cata 181

C/Crsega 258 t 932 187 036. The C/de Valencia 181 t 933 236 818.
place to browse for restored MonThurs 6pmmidnight, Fri & Sat
mirrors, fireplaces and other 6pm1am; closed Aug. The sleekest,
fittings rescued from most respected of city wine bars
demolition. has a long wine list and an
accompanying menu of creative
tapas that many consider reason
Restaurants and enough to come in the first
place. Its a bit precious, but not
tapas bars too expensive, with wines
(though not the best ones) from
LAtzavara e2 and most dishes around
C/Muntaner 109 t 934 545 925. e57.
MonSat 14pm. Lunch-only spot
for fresh-tasting vegetarian Cubanito
dining on proper tablecloths. C/Casanova 70 t 934 543 188.
For e9 you choose from half a TuesFri 14.30pm & 8.30pm1am,
dozen starters and soups, three Sat & Sun 8.30pm1am; closed lunch
mains and four puds. Drinks are in Aug. Fresh and funky
another e1 on top an all- Gaixample restaurant offering a
round bargain. mix of Cuban and Catalan food
at moderate (e1012) prices.
Barrils Home-style Cuban classics
C/dAribau 89 t 934 531 091. Daily include an appetizer of fried
9am2am; closed Tues, and first two green bananas, followed by ropa
weeks in July. Hanging hams and vieja (old clothes) shredded
barrels set the tone inside, and veal in tomato sauce.
the stuffed boar and moose keep
watch on punters tucking into Flauta
good, country-style tapas C/dAribau 23 t 933 237 038.
cured meats and Galician MonSat 8am1am. Bar at the
seafood a speciality. Lunch is front, dining room at the back,
around e8; otherwise, a la carte this is a real local favourite for
meals cost e2030. A sheltered the e9 lunchtime men del dia,
terrassa provides a breath of which shows a bit more
summer air. adventure than many. Its also a
handy pit stop for a stuffed
Berriketa flauta a thin, crispy baguette
Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 596 sandwich or a range of tapas.
t 933 424 144. Daily 8am1am.
Basque-run establishment with
reasonably priced tapas,
Contents Places
144
Fresc Co. most bizarre drinking
Ronda Universitat 29 t 933 016 837, emporiums comes complete
and others. Daily 15pm & 8pm1am. with old-fashioned fairground
Packed-out self-service diner rides and circus paraphernalia.
with an enormous salad bar and Sit at the bar fashioned from a
selection of pizzas, pastas and circus awning, or cosy up in the

desserts. No atmosphere, apart dodgem cars.
from the general hubbub at
peak trough times, but you can Oui Caf
pile your plate high for e7 at C/Consell de Cent 247 t 934 514 570.
lunch (MonFri) or e9 MonThurs & Sun 5pm2am, Fri & Sat
evenings and weekends. 5pm3am. A gay meet-and-greet
destination, with a popular
summer terrassa.
Bars
Aire Sala Diana
C/de Valencia 236 t 934 515 812.
ThursSat 11.30pm3am, Sun
610pm. The hottest, most stylish
lesbian bar in town is a
surprisingly relaxed place for a
drink and a dance to pop, house
and retro sounds. Gay men are
welcome too.
Dietrich
C/Consell de Cent 255 t 934 517 707.
MonThurs 10pm2.30am, FriSun
10pm3am. Cornerstone of the
Gaixample scene is this
fashionable late-night bar
tranquilo during the week, but
ever more hedonistic as the
weekend wears on. DIETRICH BAR
Dry Martini Punto BCN

C/dAribau 166 t 932 175 072. C/Muntaner 6365 t 934 536 123.
MonThurs 1pm2.30am, Fri & Sat Daily 6pm2.30am. Gaixample
1pm3am, Sun 6.30pm2.30am. classic that attracts a lively
Legendary Barcelona cocktail crowd for drinks, chat and
bar, the rich dark wood and music.Wednesday happy hour is
brass-highlighted interior a blast, while Friday night is
exuding confident luxury. party night.
Business types dominate in the
early evening, while a younger Quilombo
set moves in on weekend nights. C/dAribau 149 t 934 395 406.
MonThurs & Sun 9pm3am, Fri & Sat
Fira 7.30pm3.30am. Unpretentious
C/de Provena 171 t 617 776 589. music bar thats rolled with the
TuesThurs & Sun 11pm3am, Fri & years (since 1971), featuring live
Sat 11pm5am. One of the citys guitarists, South American bands
Contents Places
145
and a clientele that joins in (Grand Via de les Corts
enthusiastically. Catalanes 593; Fri & Sat
12.306am).
Sante Caf
C/dUrgell 171 t 933 237 832. La Boite

MonFri 8am3pm, Sat & Sun Avgda. Diagonal 477 t 933 191 789,
5pm3am; closed Aug. A minimalist w www.masimas.com. Regular jazz
sort of place thats more of a and blues sessions, plus funk,
caf during the day, but chills soul and salsa, with gigs on
out at night, with DJs guesting Monday to Saturday from
at the weekend. around midnight.Tickets cost
from e9, rising to e22 for big
names.
Clubs Luz de Gas
Antilla Barcelona C/Muntaner 246 t 932 097 711,
C/Arag 141143 t 934 514 564, w www.luzdegas.com. Smart venue
w www.antillasalsa.com. Daily popular with a slightly older
10.30pm5am, weekends until 6am. crowd, playing live music (local
Caribbean tunes galore: rumba, rock, blues, soul, jazz and covers)
son, salsa, merengue, mambo every night around midnight.
you name it.There are live Foreign acts appear regularly
bands, killer cocktails, and dance too, mainly jazz-blues types but
classes most nights. also old soul acts and up-and-
coming rockers.
Arena Madre
C/Balmes 32 t 934 878 342, Metro
w www.arenadisco.com. The C/Seplveda 158 t 933 235 227,
mother club (TuesSat w www.metrodiscobcn.com.
12.305am, Sun 7pm5am) sits MonThurs & Sun midnight5am, Fri &
at the helm of Arenas gay Sat midnight6am. A gay
empire, all within a city block, institution in Barcelona, with
which includes the high-disco cabaret nights and other events
antics of Arena Classic (c/de la midweek, and extremely
Diputaci 233; Fri & Sat crowded club nights at
12.305am) and more of the weekends in its two rooms
same plus house and garage at playing either current dance and
the more mixed Arena VIP techno or retro disco.
Contents Places
146
Grcia and Parc Gell

Grcia was a village for much of its early existence,
before being annexed as a suburb of the city in the late
Grcia and Parc Gell PLACES
nineteenth century. Its traditionally been a stronghold

of the liberal intelligentsia, though Grcia also has a
genuine local population that still lends it an attractive
small-town atmosphere. Consequently, its annual sum-
mer festival, the Festa Major every August, has no
neighbourhood peer. Much of the pleasure here is
serendipitous wandering the narrow, gridded streets,
catching a film or otherwise, taking time out from the
rigours of city-centre life. However, no one should miss
the opportunity to visit nearby Parc Gell, an extraordi-
nary flight of fancy by architectural genius Antoni
Gaud. To get to Grcia take the FGC train from Plaa
de Catalunya to Grcia station, or the metro to either
Diagonal, to the south, or Fontana, to the north. From
any of the stations, its around a 500-metre walk to
Grcias main square, Plaa del Sol, hub of the neigh-
bourhoods renowned nightlife.
Mercat de la Llibertat iron railings are a reminder of
Pl. de la Libertat t 932 170 995. Mon Gauds early training as a
8am3pm, TuesThurs 8am2pm & metalsmith, and to further prove
58pm, Fri 7am8pm, Sat 7am3pm; his versatility and demonstrate
closed afternoons in Aug. Many of how Art Nouveau cuts across art
Grcias locals start every forms Gaud designed much
morning the same way of the mansions original
shopping for bread and furniture, too.
provisions, and grabbing a quick SNAILS AT THE MERCAT DE LA LIBERTAT
coffee, in the busy
neighbourhood market.The
building was revamped in 1893
by Francesc Berenguer i
Mestrs, a former pupil of
Gaud, who sheltered its food
stalls and kiosks under a
modernista wrought-iron roof.
Casa Vicens
C/de les Carolines 24. No public
access. Antoni Gauds first
major private commission
(188385) took inspiration from
the Moorish style, covering the
facade of the house in linear
green-and-white tiles with a
flower motif.The decorative
Contents Places
EUDALD
147
CB
OLA
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CAFES, TAPAS AND RIG
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RESTAURANTS LA
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Plaa de la Virreina MayAug 10am9pm; NovFeb

This pretty square, backed by 10am6pm. Free. Gauds Parc
the much-restored parish Gell (190014) was his most
church of Sant Joan, is one of ambitious project after the
Grcias favourites, with the Sagrada Famlia, conceived as a
Virreina Bar (see p.151) and garden city, of the type
others providing a place to rest popular at the time in England.
and admire the handsome In the end, only two houses
houses, most notably Casa were actually built, and the park
Rubinat (1909), at c/de lOr 44, was officially opened to the
the last major work of Francesc public instead in 1922. Laid out
Berenguer. Children and dogs, on a hill, which provides
meanwhile, scamper around the fabulous views back across the
small drinking fountain. city, the park is an almost
hallucinatory expression of the
Plaa de Rius i Taulet imagination. Pavilions of
The thirty-metre-high clock contorted stone, giant decorative
tower in the heart of Grcia was lizards, meandering rustic
a rallying point for nineteenth- viaducts, a vast Hall of
century radicals whose Columns, carved stone trees
twenty-first-century counterparts all combine in one manic swirl
prefer to meet for brunch at the of ideas and excesses. Perhaps
squares popular caf terrassas. the most famous element is the
long, meandering ceramic
Parc Gell bench that snakes along the
C/dOlot. Daily: March & Oct edge of the terrace above the
10am7pm; April & Sept 10am8pm; columned hall.The displays at
Contents Places
148
Casa Museu Gaud
Parc Gell t 932 193 811. Daily:
AprilSept 10am8pm; OctMarch
10am6pm. e4. One of Gauds
collaborators, Francesc
Grcia and Parc Gell PLACES
Berenguer, designed and built a

turreted house within Parc
Gell for the architect (though
he only lived in it
intermittently).This now
contains a diverting collection
of some of the furniture Gaud
designed for other projects a
typical mixture of wild
originality and brilliant
engineering as well as plans
and objects related to the park
and to Gauds life.
Parc de la Creueta del Coll

Pg. de la Mare de Deu del Coll 89.
Daily 10amdusk. Parc de la
CHILLIDA SCULPTURE, PARC DE LA Creueta del Coll was laid out
CREUETA DEL COLL
around a small artificial lake on
the Centre dInterpretaci the site of an old quarry.Theres
(daily 11am3pm; e2), at the a stand of palm trees, a caf
main park entrance, provide kiosk, and concrete promenades
useful background information under the sheer quarry walls,
on the whole project. but its all been allowed to go to
Its best to visit Parc Gell the dogs (and feral cats) a bit
during the week if you can, as lately and could do with a
weekends can be very busy.The spruce-up. Still, youre greeted at
most direct route there is on bus the top of the park steps by an
#24 from Plaa de Catalunya, Ellsworth Kelly metal spike,
Passeig de Grcia or c/Gran de while suspended by steel cables
Grcia, which drops you at the over a water-filled quarry
eastern side gate by the car corner is a massive concrete
park. From Metro Vallcarca, walk claw by the Basque artist
a few hundred metres down Eduardo Chillida. Bus #28 from
Avinguda de lHospital Militar Plaa de Catalunya, up Passeig
until you see the mechanical de Grcia, stops just 100m from
escalators on your left, ascending the park steps, or you can walk
Baixada de la Glria follow up Passeig de la Mare de Deu
these to the western side park del Coll from Metro Vallcarca in
entrance (15min in total). From about twenty minutes (theres a
Metro Lesseps, turn right along neighbourhood map at the
Travessera de Dalt and then left metro station).
up steep c/Larrard, which leads
(10min) straight to the parks
main entrance on c/Olot. Shops
Theres a small caf in the park,
and several others along Camisera Pons
c/Larrard. C/Gran de Grcia 49 t 932 177 292.
Contents Places
149
Modernista shirt shop
transformed into a showcase for Restaurants and
Spanish fashion designers.
tapas bars
Contribucions

C/Riera de Sant Miquel 30 t 932 187 Flash, Flash
140. Grcias well-known C/de la Granada del Peneds 25 t 932
discount outlet for Spanish and 370 990. Daily 1pm1.30am, bar open
Italian designer labels. 11am2am. Tortillas (most around
e5) served any way you like,
from plain and simple to
Cafs elaborately stuffed, with sweet
ones for dessert. If that doesnt
Caf del Sol grab you, theres a small menu
Pl. del Sol 16 t 934 155 663. Daily of salads, soups and burgers.
1pm2.30am. This hugely popular Either way, youll love the white
neighbourhood caf-bar sees leatherette booths and
action day and night.The seats monotone cutouts very Austin
outside provide a window onto Powers.
the local comings and goings;
otherwise you can drink in the Glop
bar until late. C/Sant Llus 24 t 932 137 058.
TuesSun 14pm & 8pm1am. The
Mos rusticity (stone-flagged floors,
Via Augusta 112 t 932 371 313. Daily baskets of garlic) stops just the
7am10pm. Self-service, designer right side of parody and the
style browse the sleek lunch men del dia is one of the
counters under the suspended citys best deals; otherwise
ceiling, pick up a croissant or expect to spend around e15 a
tuna turnover, or maybe one of head for grills and other tavern
the cooked dishes, pasta servings specials prepared in front of you
or seasonal salads, and finish off on the open kitchen ranges. At
with a handmade chocolate, a the weekend you may have to
house speciality. wait for a table.
CAF DEL SOL
Habibi
C/Gran de Grcia 7 t 932 179 545.
MonFri 1pm1am, Sat 24.30pm &
8pm1am. Bright and breezy
North African dining room,
with a summer terrassa.The Plat
Habibi gives you a taste of all
the house specials from a
minty tabbouleh to chicken
schawarma. Add a fresh-squeezed
juice (theres no alcohol served),
home-made dessert and a mint
tea, and youre still unlikely to
spend more than e12.
Illa de Grcia
C/Sant Domnec 19 t 932 380 229.
TuesFri 14pm & 9pmmidnight, Sat
Contents Places
Grcia and Parc Gell PLACES 150
FLASH, FLASH RESTAURANT
& Sun 2pmmidnight; closed mid-Aug or cod and hake cooked plenty
to mid-Sept. Decorative harmony of different ways. Its managed
reigns in this spacious, sleek by an affable bunch of young
vegetarian dining room, where guys, and theres lots of choice
the food is a cut above think for e611.
grilled tofu, stuffed aubergine
gratin or wholewheat spaghetti Octubre
carbonara. C/Julian Romea 18 t 932 182 518.
MonFri 1.303.30pm & 911pm, Sat
Miria 911pm; closed Aug. For romance
Pl. Rius i Taulet 11 t 932 185 198. and the food to go with it, its
Daily 14pm & 711pm. The sunny hard to beat this warm, rustic
terrassa on the square is half the little charmer.The Catalan
attraction, but its nice inside, menus are seasonal and
too simple but stylish, with somewhat unpredictable, but
mellow sounds to accompany constants are the sensational
the well-priced food. A la carte desserts and the hard-to-beat
favourites include great soups, prices usually around e20 for
pastas with a choice of sauces three sparkling courses.
and designer salads, while theres Reservations advised.
a bargain weekend men del dia
that provides three sample- Roble
starters, main course and dessert C/Luis Antunez 7 t 932 187 387.
for around e10 (drinks extra). MonSat 7ammidnight. The
neighbourhoods choicest tapas
Nou Candanchu selection, with food served
Pl. Rius i Taulet 9 t 932 377 362. Mon, promptly either at the bar or at
Wed, Thurs & Sun 7am1am, Fri & Sat one of the wooden tables.
until 3am. Sit beneath the clock Nudge your way up to the
tower in summer and choose counter and peruse the days
from the wide selection of specials, or browse the list on
dishes tapas and hot the wall.
sandwiches, but also steak and
eggs, steamed clams and mussels,
Contents Places
151
Salambo
Bars C/Torrijos 51 t 932 186 966. Daily
noon2.30am. Stylish
Canig neighbourhood drink-and-meet
Pl. de la Revoluci 10; no phone. spot.The pre- and post-cinema

TuesSun 11ammidnight. Family- crowd pops in for cafetires of
run neighbourhood bar now coffee, sandwiches and meals,
entering its third generation. Its and there are lots of wines and
not much to look at, but its a cava by the glass. Upstairs, you
friendly spot, packed out at can shoot pool.
weekends with a young, hip and
largely local crowd meeting to Virreina Bar
chew the fat. Pl. de la Virreina 1 t 932 379 880.
MonThurs & Sun 10am1pm, Fri &
Casa Quimet Sat 10am2am. Popular local bar
Rambla del Prat 9 t 932 175 327. with seats outside in one of
TuesSun 6.30pm2am; closed Aug. Grcias loveliest squares. A great
At the guitar bar you have to place to enjoy hard-to-find
supply the music yourself: pick Trappist beers from Belgium.
out your favourite from the
collection and try your luck.
The place is crammed with old Clubs
photographs and trinkets.
Centre Artes Tradicionrius
Trav. de Sant Antoni 68 t 932 184
485, w www.tradicionarius.com. Folk
recitals by Catalan and visiting
performers, usually on Friday
around 10pm (tickets e8)
though the bar is open nightly.
Also sponsors an annual
international folk and traditional
dance festival between January
and April, with performances
here and at other city venues.
Otto Zutz
C/de Lincoln 15 t 932 380 722,
w www.grupo-ottozutz.com. TuesSat
midnight6am. Still one of the
most fashionable places in the
city, this three-storey former
textile factory has a dance floor,
three bars,VIP lounge and a
shedload of pretensions.With
the right clothes and face, youre
in (you may or may not have to
pay, depending on how
impressive you are, the day of
VIRREINA BAR
the week, etc).
Contents Places
152
Camp Nou, Pedralbes

and Sarri-Sant
Camp Nou, Pedralbes and Sarri-Sant Gervasi PLACES
Gervasi
On the northwestern edge of the city centre, the citys
famous football stadium, Camp Nou, draws locals and
visitors alike, both to the big game and to the FC
Barcelona museum. The nearby suburb of Pedralbes,
across Avinguda Diagonal, contains two interesting
museums (of decorative art and ceramics), while a half-
days excursion can be made of the trip by walking
from the museums, past an early Gaud creation, to the
calm cloister and celebrated art collection at the Gothic
monastery of Pedralbes. You can complete the day by
returning via Sarri, just to the east, more like a small
town than a suburb, with a pretty main street and mar-
ket to explore. At night, the focus shifts southeast to
neighbouring Sant Gervasi and the style bars in the
streets north of Avinguda Diagonal.
Camp Nou and FC Barcelona around which people could
Avgda. Arstides Maillol t 934 963 600, rally.
w www.fcbarcelona.com. Match tickets The football season runs
(e3060) also from ServiCaixa t 902 from late August until May,
332 211, w www.servicaixa.com. with games usually played on
mCollblanc/Maria Cristina. In Sundays (though sometimes on
Barcelona, football is a genuine other days).Youll have little
obsession, with support for the problem getting a match ticket,
local giants FC (Futbol Club) except perhaps for the biggest
Barcelona raised to an art form. domestic games and major
The magnificent Camp Nou European ties. For all other
football stadium was built in games, some tickets are put on
1957, and enlarged for the 1982 general sale a week before each
World Cup semi-final to match, or try calling
accommodate 98,000 spectators. ServiCaixa. Touts at the ground
Although the club was among also offer tickets for most
the most successful in Spain in matches.
the 1990s, its fortunes have The stadium complex also
waned recently in favour of boasts a museum (see opposite)
Valencia and, particularly, of arch and hosts basketball games with
rival Real Madrid. However, its FC Barcelonas professional
always been more than just a team, while theres also a public
football club to the locals, and ice rink, stadium souvenir shop
during the Franco years the and caf.
club stood as a Catalan symbol,
Contents Places
153
Museu del Futbol role. Franco kept it on as a
Camp Nou, Avgda. Arstides Maillol presidential residence and it later
t 934 963 600, w www.fcbarcelona passed to the city, which since
.com. MonSat 10am6.30pm, Sun 1990 has used its rooms to show
10am2pm. e5, guided tours e9. off its fine ceramics and
PLACES Camp Nou, Pedralbes and Sarri-Sant Gervasi

The museum at the Barcelona decorative arts collections in
football stadium is a splendid two separate museums: the
celebration of Spains national Museu de Cermica, and the
sport.Theres an excellent Museu de les Arts Decoratives
English-language photo-history, (see below).The gardens (free
an audiovisual display of goals entry) are a calm oasis.
galore, and team and match
photos dating back to 1901, Museu de Cermica
including a gallery of the Avgda. Diagonal 686 t 932 801 621,
celebrated foreign players who w www.museuceramica.bcn.es.
have graced Baras books: as TuesSat 10am6pm, Sun 10am3pm.
early as 1911, there were five e3.50, free on first Sun of the month;
British players in the team.The ticket also valid for Museu de les Arts
tour, meanwhile, includes a visit Decoratives and Museu Textil i
to the glittering trophy room dIndumentria in La Ribera. The
and a view of the stunning bulk of the exhibits range from
tiered seating and pitch. the thirteenth to the nineteenth
centuries, and include splendid
Palau Reial de Pedralbes Moorish-influenced tiles and
Avgda. Diagonal 686. mPalau Reial. plates from the Aragonese town
The Palau Reial de Pedralbes of Teruel, as well as a series of
basically a large villa with fifteenth- and sixteenth-century
pretensions was built for the socarrats decorated terracotta
use of the royal family on their panels from Paterno displaying
visits to Barcelona, with the demons and erotic scenes.
funds raised by public Perhaps the most vivid examples
subscription. It received its first of the work coming out of
such visit in 1926, but within Barcelona and Lleida workshops
five years the king had abdicated of the time are the two
and the palace somewhat lost its extensive azulejo (tile) panels of
PALAU REIAL DE PEDRALBES
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154
RESTAURANTS
AND TAPAS
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Contents Places
155
GEN C. DEL
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156
1710: one showing a
Madrid bullfight, the
other the feasting
and dancing taking
place at a party
centred on the craze

of the period hot-
chocolate-drinking.
Museu de les Arts

Decoratives
Avgda. Diagonal 686
t 932 805 024, w www
.museuartsdecoratives
.bcn.es. TuesSat 10am MUSEU DE LES ARTS DECORATIVES
6pm, Sun 10am3pm. e3.50, free on
first Sun of the month; ticket also valid winged dragon of twisted iron
for Museu de Cermica and Museu snarls at the passers-by, its razor-
Textil i dIndumentria in La Ribera. toothed jaws spread wide in a
Arranged around the upper fearsome roar.
gallery of the Palau Reials
former throne room, the Monestir de Pedralbes
Decorative Arts Museum Bxda del Monestir t 932 039 282,
provides a fair old romp from w www.museuhistoria.bcn.es.
Romanesque art through to TuesSun 10am2pm. e4,
contemporary Catalan design. combination ticket with Col.lecci
Side rooms showcase the Thyssen-Bornemisza e5.50, free on
various periods under the first Sun of the month. mPalau Reial
spotlight, with displays of highly and 20min walk, or 30min ride on bus
polished Baroque and #22 from Plaa de Catalunya/Passeig
Neoclassical furniture de Grcia or #64 Ronda Sant Antoni
contrasting with the varied Art and c/dAribau. Founded in 1326
Deco and modernista holdings. for the nuns of the Order of St
The latter half of the gallery Clare (whose members still
concentrates on Catalan disseny reside here), this is in effect an
(design), from chairs to espresso entire monastic village preserved
machines, lighting to sink taps. on the outskirts of the city, set
within medieval walls and
Finca Gell gateways that shut out
Avgda. de Pedralbes 77. mPalau Reial. completely the noise and
Built as stables and a riding clamour of the twenty-first
school for the family of Antoni century.
Gauds patron, Eusebi Gell, the It took the medieval craftsmen
architect completed the finca in a little over a year to prepare
1887, at the same time as he was Pedralbes (from the Latin petras
working on the Palau Gell in albas, white stones) for its first
the old town.The brick and tile community of nuns.The speed
buildings are frothy, whimsical of the initial construction, and
affairs with more than a the subsequent uninterrupted
Moorish element to them and habitation by the Order, helps
you are allowed no further than explain the monasterys
the gateway but what a architectural harmony.The
gateway. An extraordinary cloisters in particular are perhaps
Contents Places
157
the finest in the city, built on paintings, mostly of Madonna
three levels and adorned by the and Child, of which the
slenderest of columns. All undoubted highlight is the
around the cloisters are alcoves sublime Madonna of Humility by
and rooms displaying the Fra Angelico, painted in 1433.

monasterys treasures frescoes, The mainly Italian collection is
paintings, memorabilia and offset by a group of works from
religious artefacts while the the Flemish and German
adjacent church retains some of schools, most important of
its original fourteenth-century which are the dark, sombre
stained glass and the superb depictions of saints by Cranach
carved marble tomb of the the Elder, which stand in sharp
foundations sponsor, Elisenda contrast to the exuberance of
de Montcada, wife of Jaume II, the Italian works of the same
who died in 1364. period. St George, a popular
subject for Catalans, whose
patron saint he is, is presented
here as the all-conquering hero
albeit standing over the
puniest dragon imaginable.
Parc Castell de lOreneta

C/Montevideo 45. Daily 10amdusk.
Bus #66 from Pl. Catalunya or #64
from Pl. Universitat. In the rural
park on the slopes of the
Collserola hills, behind Pedralbes
monastery, there are miniature
train rides and pony rides for
children on Sundays.
Sarri
FGC Sarri c/Mare de Deu de Nria
exit, or bus #64 from Pl. Universitat or
GATEWAY, FINCA GELL Pedralbes. Sarris narrow traffic-
free main street c/Major de
Col.lecci Thyssen- Sarri shows aspects of the
Bornemisza independent small town that
Monestir de Pedralbes, Bxda del Sarri once was. At its northern
Monestir t 934 811 041, end, at Plaa de Sarri, the
w www.museothyssen.org. TuesSun much-restored church of Sant
10am2pm. e3.50, combination ticket Vincen flanks the main Passeig
with Monestir de Pedralbes e5.50, free de la Reina Elisenda de
on first Sun of the month. A small Montcada, across which lies the
but superb art collection, neighbourhood market, Mercat
covering five major movements Sarri (Mon & Tues
in European art from the 8am2.30pm,Wed & Thurs
fourteenth to the eighteenth 8am2.30pm & 58pm, Fri
centuries, is on permanent view 8am8.30pm, Sat 8am3.30pm;
in one of the monasterys July & Aug closes 2.30pm &
capacious old dormitories.The closed Sat), housed in a
displays begin with a series of modernista red-brick building of
medieval Italian religious 1911. Carrer Major de Sarri
Contents Places
158
runs downhill from here, past particularly around Plaa
other surviving old-town Francesc Maci and Avinguda
squares, prettiest of which is Pau Casals at the end of the
Plaa Sant Vicen (off latter, Tur Parc (daily
c/Mae i Flaquer), where theres 10amdusk) is a good place to
a statue of the saint and a nice rest weary feet, with a small lake
little sandwich caf-bar, the Can and a caf-kiosk.
Pau (closed weekends).You also
must not miss the Bar Toms (see
below), just around the corner Shops
on c/Major de Sarri, for the
worlds best patatas bravas. LIlla
Avgda. Diagonal 555559 t 934 440
Avinguda Diagonal 000, w www.lilla.com. The landmark
The uptown section of uptown shopping mall, stuffed
Avinguda Diagonal runs full of designer fashion, plus
through the heart of Barcelonas FNAC (music and books), Sfera
flashest business and shopping (cosmetics), Decathlon (sports),
district.Typical of the El Corte Ingls (department
enterprises here is LIlla, the store), Caprabo (supermarket)
giant shopping centre (see and much more.You can get
opposite), whose 340-metre- here on the Tomb Bus
long facade flanks the avenue shopping line service from
the stepped design is a prone Plaa de Catalunya, which visits
echo of New Yorks Rockefeller other uptown stores as well
Center. Smaller designer fashion (daily every 7min; e1.25 each
stores are ubiquitous, way, or e5 for one days
unlimited travel).
PEDRALBES CHURCH
Janina
Avgda. Pau Casals 8 t 932 020
693. Barcelonas premier
lingerie designer, with
own-label lingerie, swim-
and sleepwear, plus items
by other designers.
Restaurants
and tapas
bars
Bar Toms
C/Major de Sarri 49 t 932 031
077. Daily except Wed
8am10pm. The house
patatas bravas spicy fried
potatoes with garlic mayo
and salsa picante is not all
they serve in this utterly
Contents Places
159
unassuming, white-Formica- Universal
table bar (the croquetas and tuna C/Mari Cub 182 t 932 013 596.
empandillas are great too), but it MonSat 11pm4.30am. A classic
might as well be, as thats what designer bar thats been at the
the queues are for.They fry cutting edge of Barcelona style

between noon and 3pm and since 1985. Be warned: they
6pm and closing, so if its bravas operate a strict door policy
you want, note the hours. here, and if your face doesnt fit
you wont get in.
Bars
Clubs
Gimlet
C/Santal 46 t 932 015 306. Daily Bikini
7.30pm2.30am. Especially C/Deu i Mata 105 t 933 220 005,
popular in summertime, when w www.bikinibcn.com. TuesSat
the tables outside are packed midnight5am. Not only regular
with the local beautiful people, rock gigs, but a night of
who come here for snacks and clubbing variety Rock Room
drinks. for pop, rock and dance, Latin
fusion in Arutanga and laid-back
Mas i Mas cocktail hour sounds in Dry
C/Mari Cub 199 t 932 094 502, Bikini.
w www.masimas.com. MonThurs &
Sun 7pm2.30am, Fri & Sat 7pm3am. Cova del Drac Jazzroom
Cornerstone of the uptown bar C/Vallmajor 33 t 933 191 789,
scene and, in their own words, w www.masimas.com. Closed Mon,
a cross between a cocktail bar Sun & Aug. One of Barcelonas
and a dancehall.The music best jazz clubs serves up live
policy is blues, acid-jazz, hip- music from 11pm, with a DJ to
hop and house, and the crowd follow. Cover charge is e920
young and funky. depending on the act.
Tres Torres
Via Augusta 300 t 932 051 608.
MonSat 7pm3am. Large terrassa-
bar set in the beautiful grounds
of an old house, which gets very
crowded in summer.
Contents Places
160
Tibidabo and Parc del

Collserola
Tibidabo and Parc del Collserola PLACES
The views from the heights of Tibidabo (550m), the peak

that signals the northwestern boundary of the city, are
legendary. On a clear day you can see across to
Montserrat and the Pyrenees, and out to sea even as far
as Mallorca. However, while many make the tram and
funicular ride up to Tibidabos amusement park and
church, few realise that beyond stretches the Parc de
Collserola, an area of peaks and wooded valleys roughly
17km by 18km, threaded by rivers, roads and hiking
paths one of Barcelonas best-kept secrets. You could
walk into the park from Tibidabo, but its actually better
to start from the parks information centre, across to the
east, above Vallvidrera, where hiking-trail leaflets are
available.
Parc dAtraccions gates of a wonderful amusement

Pl. del Tibidabo t 932 117 942, park, laid out around several
w www.tibidabo.es. Mid-June to mid- levels of the mountaintop,
Sept daily noon10pm, until 11pm at connected by landscaped paths
weekends; mid-Sept to mid-June Sat & and gardens. Its a mix of
Sun only noon6pm. All rides e22, traditional rides and high-tech
restricted rides e11, plus attractions, many of which take
family/discount tickets. The full advantage of the parks
Funicular del Tibidabo (see box) location to offer jaw-dropping
drops you right outside the perspectives over the city. For a
Getting to Tibidabo
Reaching the heights of Tibidabo is half the fun, since youll need to combine sev-
eral forms of transport. First, take the FGC train (line 7) from Plaa de Catalunya
station to Avinguda Tibidabo (the last stop). Emerging from the station escalators,
cross the road to the tram/bus shelter at the bottom of the tree-lined avenue. The
Tramvia Blau, an antique tram service (mid-June to mid-Sept daily 10am8pm;
rest of year weekends & hols 10am6pm; departures every 1530min; e2 one-
way, e2.90 return) then runs you up the hill to Plaa Doctor Andreu; theres a bus
service instead out of season during the week. Here, you change to the Funicular
del Tibidabo, which has regular connections to Tibidabo at the top (operates
when the Parc dAtraccions is open; e2 one-way, e3 return). If the funicular isnt
running, take a taxi from Avinguda Tibidabo instead, which will cost about e8 to
Tibidabo. Alternatively, the special Tibibus runs direct to Tibidabo from Plaa de
Catalunya, outside El Corte Ingls (weekends & hols year round every 30min; plus
weekdays in summer hourly; e2). For details of public transport, call t010 or
check out wwww.tmb.net.
Contents Places
161
with a noisy correfoc, a theatrical
fireworks display.
Sagrat Cor
Elevator operates daily 10am2pm &
PLACES Tibidabo and Parc del Collserola

37pm. e1.50. Next to Tibidabos
amusement park, climb the
shining steps of the Templo
Expiatorio de Espaa
otherwise known as the Sagrat
Cor (Sacred Heart) to the
dramatic, wide balcony for some
stunning views.The church is
topped with a huge statue of
Christ and, inside the church, a
lift (ascensor) takes you higher
still, to just under the statues
feet, from where the city,
surrounding hills and sea
shimmer in the distance.
VALLVIDRERA FUNICULAR
real thrill, try the aeroplane ride, Torre de Collserola

a Barcelona icon; the red plane Carretera de Vallvidrera al Tibidabo
has been spinning since 1928. t 934 069 354, w www
And dont miss the Museu .torredecollserola.com. WedSun
dAutmates, a collection of 11am2.30pm & 3.307pm, JulySept
coin-operated antique until 8pm. e5. Follow the road
fairground machines in working from the Tibidabo car park and
order. Summer weekends end its only a few minutes walk to
BARS 0 1 km
Danzatoria 2 BAIXADA DE Parc
Mirablau 1 VALLVIDRERA
de Collserola
Centre
i dInformaci Font de la
Sagrat Cor
Budellera
Parc
Munde
Torre de d'Atraccions
VAL LV I D R E R A Collserola
C T R A V A L LVI D R E R A
A L
T I BID A BO Funicular
del Tibidabo
Funicular de TIBID A BO
Vallvidrera
E
SS
PA
PEU DEL FUNICULAR 1 PL DR ANDREU

N Museu de 2
la Cincia C
TRAMVIA BLAU
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de Pedralbes OVA
PASSEIG DE LA BONAN
VIA
AL MITRE
AU
G
PEDR AL B E S Sarri
E N ER
C
Contents Places
162
Norman Fosters soaring woods. If you follow the signs
communications tower. High instead from the font to the
above the tree line, this features Torre de Collserola (another
a glass lift that whisks you up 20min), you can return to
ten floors (115m) for extensive Barcelona on the funicular from
Tibidabo and Parc del Collserola PLACES
views 70km, they claim, on a the nearby suburban village of

good day. Vallvidrera (daily
6ammidnight; every 610min),
Parc del Collserola which connects to Peu del
Centre dInformaci t 932 803 552, Funicular, an FGC train station
w http://ParcCollserola.amb.es. Daily on the line from Plaa de
10am3pm. FGC Baixada de Vallvidrera Catalunya.
(on the Sabadell or Terrassa line from
Pl. de Catalunya; 15min). The park Museu de la Cincia
information centre lies in oak C/Teodor Roviralta 4751 t 903 223
and pinewoods, an easy ten- 040 or 932 126 050, w www
minute walk up through the .nuevomuseodelaciencia.com. TuesSun
trees from the FGC Baixada de 10am8pm. ADmission charged. The
Vallvidrera train station.Theres citys Science Museum has
a bar-restaurant here with an undergone massive refurbishment
outdoor terrace, plus an It was previously housed in a
exhibition on the parks history, converted modernista hospice, and
flora and fauna, while the staff the new works have retained the
hand out English-language original building but surrounded
leaflets detailing the various it by a park and added four times
park walks. Some of the well- as much exhibition space in a
marked paths like the huge underground extension.
oak-forest walk soon gain You can expect a fully interactive
height for marvellous views over experience, touching on all
the tree canopy, while others aspects of science and tracing the
descend through the valley history of matter from the
bottoms to springs and shaded origins of the universe onwards.
picnic areas. Perhaps the nicest Special exhibitions, talks and
short walk from the information experiments are featured, and the
centre is to the Font de la popular planetarium from the
Budellera (1hr return), a original museum has been
landscaped spring deep in the revived.
MUSEU DE LA CINCIA
Contents Places
163
PLACES Tibidabo and Parc del Collserola

MIRABLAU BAR
Bars Mirablau
Pl. del Dr Andrea, Avgda. Tibidabo
Danzatoria t 934 185 879. Daily 11am5am.
Avgda. Tibidabo 61 t 932 116 261, Unbelievable city views from a
w www.danzatoria.com. WedSun chic bar near the Tibidabo
11pm3am. Make the trip for the funicular that fills to bursting at
aerial views and drinks in a times.
former mansion, set high above
the city.There are four rooms
and music styles, ten bars and
best of all a fantastic garden,
which makes this very pleasant
for summer nights.
Contents Places
164
Montserrat
The mountain of Montserrat, with its weirdly shaped
rock crags, vast monastery and hermitage caves,
Montserrat PLACES
stands just 40km northwest of Barcelona. Its the most

popular day-trip from the city, reached in around ninety
minutes by train and then cable car or rack railway for
a thrilling ride up to the monastery. Once there, you can
visit the basilica and monastery buildings and complete
your day with a walk around the woods and crags,
using the two funicular railways that depart from the
monastery complex.
Aeri de Montserrat
Montserrat Aeri t 932 051 515,
w www.fgc.net. Departures every 15min,
daily 9.25am1.45pm & 2.206.45pm.
e12 return from Barcelona. For the
cable-car service, get off the train
from Barcelona at Montserrat
Aeri station (52min).You may
have to wait in line fifteen
minutes or so, but then its only a
five-minute swoop up the sheer
mountainside to a terrace just
below the monastery probably
the most exhilarating ride in
Catalunya. Returning to
Barcelona, the line R5 trains
depart hourly from Montserrat
Aeri (from 9.37am).
Cremallera de Montserrat
Monistrol de Montserrat t 902 312
020, w www.cremallerademontserrat
.com. Departures every 20min1hr,
daily 7.22am-6.38/8.38pm (most
frequent, and later, services at AERI DE MONTSERRAT
Getting to Montserrat
To reach the Montserrat cable-car/rack-railway stations, take the FGC train (line
R5, direction Manresa), which leaves daily from Plaa dEspanya (mEspanya) at
hourly intervals from 8.36am. You can buy through-transport tickets at Plaa
dEspanya (e12 return), while two combination tickets are also available: the
Transmontserrat (e21), which includes all transport services, including unlimit-
ed use of the mountain funiculars; and the Totmontserrat (e34.50), which
includes the same, plus monastery museum entry and a cafeteria lunch. Bus tours
from the city (around e40; ask at any tourist office) also run to the monastery, but
these cant compete for thrills with the do-it-yourself train and aerial rides.
Contents Places
165
weekends MarchOct, plus JulySept). advice available. Legends hang
e12 return from Barcelona. The easily upon the monastery of
alternative approach to the Montserrat. Fifty years after the
monastery is by the Montserrat birth of Christ, St Peter is said
rack railway, which departs from to have deposited an image of
PLACES Montserrat
Monistrol de Montserrat station the Virgin (known as La
(the next stop after Montserrat Moreneta), carved by St Luke, in
Aeri, another 4min), and takes one of the mountain caves.The
twenty minutes to climb to the icon was lost in the early eighth
monastery, via Monistrol-Vila. century after being hidden
The original rack railway on during the Moorish invasion,
Montserrat ran between 1892 but reappeared in 880,
and 1957, and this modern accompanied by the customary
replacement recreates the visions and celestial music. A
majestic engineering that allows chapel was built to house it, and
the train to climb 550m in 4km. in 976 this was superseded by a
Returning to Barcelona, the line Benedictine monastery, set at an
R5 trains depart hourly from altitude of nearly 1000m.
Monistrol de Montserrat (from Miracles abounded and the
9.33am). Virgin of Montserrat soon
became the chief cult-image of
Monestir de Montserrat Catalunya and a pilgrimage
Information office t 938 777 701, centre second in Spain only to
w www.abadiamontserrat.net. Daily Santiago de Compostela the
9am5.45pm, JulySept until 7pm. main pilgrimages to Montserrat
Walking maps and accommodation take place on April 27 and
To B
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BARCELONA
Contents Places
Montserrat PLACES 166
MONESTIR DE MONTSERRAT
September 8.The monasterys Moreneta, blackened by the

various buildings including smoke of countless candles,
hotel, post office, souvenir shop, stands above the high altar
bar, patisserie and supermarket reached from behind, by way of
fan out around an open square, an entrance to the right of the
and there are extraordinary basilicas main entrance.The
mountain views from the approach to this beautiful icon
terrace as well as from various reveals the enormous wealth of
other vantage points scattered the monastery, as you queue
around the complex.There are along a corridor leading
plenty of places to eat, but all through the back of the
are relatively pricey and none basilicas rich side chapels. Signs
particularly inspiring. Best views at head height command
are from the Restaurant de SILENCE in various
Montserrat, in the cliff-edge languages, but nothing quietens
building near the car park the the line which waits to kiss the
self-service cafeteria, one floor images hands and feet.
up, is where you eat with the The best time to be here is at
all-inclusive Tot Montserrat the chanting of Ave Maria, daily
ticket. at 1pm (noon on Sunday), when
Montserrats world-famous
Baslica boys choir sings.The boys
Daily 810.30am & noon6.30pm. belong to the Escolania, a choral
Free. Of the religious buildings, school established in the
only the Renaissance basilica, thirteenth century and
dating largely from 1560 to unchanged in musical style since
1592, is open to the public. La its foundation.
Contents Places
167
Museu de Montserrat seventeenth-century chapel built
MonFri 10am6.45pm, Sat & Sun where the Moreneta icon is said
9.30am7.45pm. e5.50. Near the originally to have been found.
entrance to the basilica, the Its an easy walk of less than an
monastery museum presents a hour there and back.The other
PLACES Montserrat
few archeological finds brought funicular rises steeply to the
back by travelling monks, hermitage of Sant Joan, from
together with painting and where its a tougher 45 minutes
sculpture dating from the walk to the Sant Jeroni
thirteenth century, including hermitage, and another 15
works by Caravaggio, El Greco, minutes to the Sant Jeroni
Tiepolo, Picasso, Dal, Monet summit at 1236m. Several other
and Degas. Religious items are walks are also possible from the
in surprisingly short supply, as Sant Joan funicular, perhaps the
most of the monasterys nicest being the circuit around
valuables were carried off by the ridge that leads in 45
Napoleons troops, who sacked minutes all the way back down
the complex in 1811.The ticket to the monastery.
also gets you in the Espai
Audiovisual (daily 9am6pm), CAKES AND HONEY STALL
near the information office,

which tells you something of
the life of a Benedictine
community.
Mountain walks
Funicular departures every 20min, daily
10am6pm, weekends only
OctMarch. Santa Cova e2.50 return,
Sant Joan e6.10 return, combination
ticket e6.90. Following the
mountain tracks to the caves
and hermitages, you can
contemplate what Goethe wrote
in 1816: Nowhere but in his
own Montserrat will a man find
happiness and peace.The going
is pretty good on all the tracks
and the signposting is clear, but
you do need to remember that
you are on a mountain.Take
water if youre hiking far and
keep away from the edges.
Two separate funiculars run
from points close to the cable-
car station. One drops to the
path for Santa Cova, a
Contents Places
168
Sitges
The seaside town of Sitges, 36km south of Barcelona,
is definitely the highlight of the local coast the great
Sitges PLACES
weekend escape for young Barcelonans, who have cre-

ated a resort very much in their own image. Its also a
noted gay holiday destination, with an outrageous
annual Carnival (Feb/March) and a summer nightlife to
match. During the heat of the day, though, the tempo
drops as everyone hits the beach, while out of season
Sitges is delightful: far less crowded, and with a tem-
perate climate that encourages promenade strolls and
old-town exploration.
The beaches
There are clean sands
either side of the old
town headland, though
these become
extremely crowded in
high season. For more
space its best to keep
walking west from
Passeig de la Ribera
along the palm-lined
promenade of Passeig
Martim, past a series
of eight interlinked
BEACH AT SITGES
beaches that runs a couple of
kilometres down the coast as far gay nudist beaches found at the
as the Hotel Terramar.There are far end for these, keep on past
breakwaters, beach bars, LAtlantida disco to the Sun
restaurants, showers and Beach Garden beach bar (10min)
watersports facilities along the and the small coves beyond.
way, with the more notorious
Sitges information
Trains to Sitges (e2.25 each way) leave Passeig de Grcia or Barcelona Sants sta-
tions every twenty minutes, more frequently at peak times (destination Vilanova/St
Vicen), and its a thirty- to forty-minute ride depending on the service.
The towns Oficina Turisme (c/Sinia Morera 1, at Oasis shopping centre t938
945 004, w www.sitges.com; JulySept daily 9am9pm; OctJune MonFri
9am2pm & 46.30pm) is five minutes walk from the train station. From here you
can pick up useful restaurant and accommodation lists, and theres bike rental from
Sitges Bike (t938 949 458, wwww.sitgesbike.com; from e16 a day), located
around the corner in Shop (Local) 34 of the Oasis shopping centre.
A combination ticket (e5.40, valid one month) is available for all three muse-
ums note that Monday isnt the best day to come, as the museums and many
restaurants are closed.
Contents Places
169
PIS
Oficina Turisme i AV
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PLACES Sitges
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PLAA PL. M i C FO
Platja DEl
Cau Ferrat UTRILLO
BALUARD MORLIUS
de la Museu
CAFS, TAPAS & Fragata Palau Maricel
RESTAURANTS Esglesia Maricel
Parroquial
Al Fresco 4
Beach House 7 N
Celler Vell 1
Chiringuito 9
Fragata 10 BARCELONA
Izarra 6
Pinta 8
BARS
Parrots Pub 3

Vikingos 2 0 200 m Sitges

Voramar 5 Castelldefels
Esglsia Parroquial Museu Cau Ferrat

Pl. del Baluard t 938 940 374. Church C/Fonollar t 938 940 364. July & Aug
usually open for Mass. The knoll TuesSun 10am2pm & 59pm;
overlooking the town beaches SeptJune TuesFri 10am1.30pm &
and marina is topped by the 36.30pm, Sat 10am7pm, Sun
landmark Baroque parish 10am3pm. e3. Artists were
church dedicated to Sant drawn to the town in the late
Bartolomeu, whose annual nineteenth century by its light
festival is celebrated in town in and views, and Sitges flourished
the last week of August.The as an important modernista
views from the terrace sweep centre under the patronage of
up and down the coast, while artist and writer Santiago
behind in the narrow streets of Rusiol (18611931). His
the old town youll find a series former house and workshop
of old whitewashed mansions, as contains a massive jumble of his
well as the town hall and the own paintings, as well as
brick Mercat Vell (Old Market), sculpture, painted tiles, drawings
the latter now an exhibition and various collected odds and
hall. ends like the decorative
ironwork Rusiol brought back
Contents Places
170
10am1.30pm & 36.30pm, Sat
10am7pm, Sun 10am3pm. e3,
access by guided tour only every hour.
Occupying the stately rooms of
Can Llopis, a bourgeois house
Sitges PLACES
of 1793, the so-called

Romantic Museum aims to
show the lifestyle of a rich
Sitges family in the nineteenth
century by displaying a wealth
of period furniture and
possessions, from divans to dolls.
Mercat Municipal
Avgda. Artur Carbonell t 938 940 466.
MonThurs 8am2pm, Fri & Sat
8am2pm & 5.308.30pm. The
town market is a great place to
put together a beach picnic.
Stalls offer cooked and cured
ESGLSIA PARROQUIAL meats, marinaded olives, cheese,
anchovies, fresh bread, home -
in bulk from the Pyrenees.The made crisps and fruit.
museum also contains works by
the artists friends (including
Picasso), who used to meet both Shops
in Sitges and in Barcelonas
Quatre Gats tavern. CyD
C/Major 60. Mens designer shirts
Palau and Museu Maricel in limited-edition styles classic
C/Fonollar t 938 940 364. Museum whites to vibrant colours.
open July & Aug TuesSun 10am2pm
& 59pm; SeptJune TuesFri Oscar
10am1.30pm & 36.30pm, Sat Pl. de lIndustria 2. Closed Mon.
10am7pm, Sun 10am3pm. e3. Swim, beach and clubwear for
The museum in this lovely the very well-toned man about
mansion near the church town.
contains minor art works,
medieval to modern, and Taller Antic
maintains an impressive C/Fonollar. A treasure trove of Art
collection of Catalan ceramics Nouveau jewellery and
and sculpture. In summer nineteenth-century design
(usually two evenings a week), pieces, from perfume bottles and
the main part of the mansion picture frames to ornamental
itself is open for guided tours, a clocks and letter-openers.
short classical music concert and
drinks ask at the tourist office
for the current schedule. Cafs
Museu Romntic Al Fresco
C/Sant Gaudenci 1 t 938 942 969. C/Major 33 t 938 113 307. TuesSun
July & Aug TuesSun 10am2pm & 9ammidnight. A crisp, white
59pm; SeptJune TuesFri space open for breakfast, home-
Contents Places
171
made cakes and light meals.The menu (e20) that changes every
associated restaurant of the same couple of days and offers four
name around the corner (c/Pau courses of the best in Asian
Barrabeitg 4; t938 940 600) Med fusion food. Breakfast and
serves fancier Catalan fusion gourmet sandwiches are
PLACES Sitges
meals, with mains (chargrilled available until 4pm, an open-air
tuna, lamb tagine, oven-baked terrace adds a touch of seaside
monkfish) for around e1520. romance, while after-beach
happy hour cocktails are served
daily (48pm).
Celler Vell
C/Sant Buenaventura 21 t 938 111
961. Mon 14pm & 811pm, Tues
14pm, ThursSun 14pm & 811pm.
Traditional Catalan food in
rustic surroundings, offering
everything from grilled rabbit to
sauted beans with calamari.
Theres a good-value men del
dia, while dinner will cost
between e20 and e30.
Fragata
Pg. de la Ribera 1 t 938 941 086.
Daily 14pm & 811pm. Typical of
the new wave of classy seafood
places in town, serving inventive
fish, shellfish, rice and fideu
(noodle) dishes at moderate to
SITGES MANSION expensive prices. Catch-of-the-
day choices like monkfish
Chiringuito casserole, xat (salt cod and
Pg. de la Ribera t 938 947 596. Daily anchovy salad) or grilled local
10am10pm, reduced hours in winter. prawns cost from e13 to e18.
Claims to be Spains oldest
beach bar, serving grilled Izarra
sardines, fried baby squid and C/Major 22 t 938 947 370. Daily
calamari, sandwiches and snacks 1.304pm & 8.3011pm. Pint-sized
at budget prices on the prom. Basque bar with a wide range of
tapas and main meals. Cosy up
to the bar, grab a plate and tuck
Restaurants and in from the dishes arranged on
the counter.
tapas bars Pinta
Beach House Pg. de la Ribera 5859 t 938 947 871.
C/Sant Pau 34 t 938 949 029, Daily 14pm & 8pmmidnight. The
w www.beachhousesitges.com. enormous menu here
EasterNov only, daily 9am2am. The concentrates on fish and seafood
Australian chef-owners have at affordable prices.The
created a highly relaxed lunchtime men del dia (not
restaurant, with a table dhte available weekends) is a bargain
Contents Places
172
e10, though a full meal Vikingos
including drinks can be had for C/Marqus de Montroig 79 t 938 949
around e30.The promenade- 687, w www.losvikingos.com.
view terrace fills quickly at MonThurs & Sun 11am1am, Fri &
lunchtime. Sat 11am2am. Long-standing
Sitges PLACES
party-zone bar with an

enormous air-conditioned
Bars interior and streetside terrace.
Drinks, snacks or full meals
Parrots Pub served from morning to night.
Pl. de lIndustria t 938 947 881. Daily
6pm2am. The stalwart of the gay Voramar
bar scene in Sitges.Take a seat C/Port Alegre 55 t 938 944 404. Daily
under the plastic raffia parasols 6pm2am. This charismatic
and watch the parade, or check seafront bar features a few
with the locals on the current choice pavement tables and a
club scene. panelled and carved interior that
has the feel of an English pub. A
mixed crowd of drinkers sinks
ice-cold beers or the wicked
house cocktails.
PARROTS PUB
Contents Places
Accommodation
Contents Accommodation
175
Hotels
Finding a vacancy in a good in winter (Nov, Jan & Feb), or
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
hotel in Barcelona can be very for longer stays, while the larger
difficult, and youre advised to hotels often have special rates in
book well in advance between August (when business travel is
Easter and the end of October. scarce) or at weekends.
Prices are relatively high, too.The Breakfast isnt usually included
absolute cheapest double rooms (even in very expensive places),
in a simple family-run pension, unless specifically stated in the
sharing an outside shower, cost reviews. Credit cards are
around e35, though e4050 a accepted almost everywhere,
night is more realistic. For air even in very modest places
conditioning, a TV and an eleva- (though American Express isnt
tor to your room theres a fair always).Theres a lot of street
amount of choice around the noise in Barcelona, so bring ear-
e6090 mark, while up to e150 plugs if youre at all concerned.
gets you the run of decent hotels
in most city areas. For Barcelonas
most fashionable hotels, count on On the Ramblas
e250400 a night. Benidorm Ramblas 37 t 933 022 054.
Prices given below are for the Refurbished rooms opposite Plaa Reial that
cheapest available double/twin offer real value for money, hence the tribes
room in high season, including of young tourists. Rooms available for one
the seven percent tax (IVA) that to five people, all with bathtubs and show-
is added to all accommodation ers, and a Ramblas view if youre lucky (and
bills. Some places offer discounts prepared to pay a bit more). From e45.
Reservation agencies
You can book accommodation at the tourist offices (Turisme de Barcelona,
see below), but only in person on the day or online they do not have an
advance telephone reservation service. Alternatively, contact one of the
reservation agencies listed below. As well as finding hotels, some specialize
in apartment rentals (starting at around e70100 a night for a studio sleep-
ing two), but make sure you understand all the costs seasonal premiums,
cleaning charges, utility bills and taxes can all push up the headline figure.
Barcelona Apartment Rentals UK t0117/907 3486, wwww
.barcelonaapartmentrentals.co.uk. A small range of quality apartments, mainly
in the Eixample (some near the Sagrada Famlia) and Grcia.
Barcelona On-Line Barcelona t902 887 017 or 933 437 993,
wwww.barcelona-on-line.es. Commission-free reservations for hotels, pen-
sions and apartments.
My Favourite Things Barcelona t933 295 351 or 637 265 405,
wwww.myft.net. Has an eye for unusual and offbeat accommodation, from
boutique hotels to private bed and breakfasts.
Turisme de Barcelona Offices in Barcelona at Pl. de Catalunya; Pl. de Sant
Jaume; Barcelona Sants; Barcelona Airport t807 117 222, from abroad t932
853 1833, wwww.barcelonaturisme.com. Same-day, commission-free accom-
modation bookings, in person, by phone, or on the website.
176
PASSEIG DE GRACIA
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CARRER DE ROGER DE LLURIA

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CARRER DE GIRONA
HOTELS
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CARRER DE CASP Australia 1
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178
Lloret Ramblas 125 t 933 173 366, cards. e40, en suite e55.
f 933 019 283. Gilt mirrors, old paintings Coln Avgda. Catedral 7 t 933 011 404,
and wrinkled leather sofas in the lounge w www.hotelcolon.es. Splendidly situated
speak of a faded glory, and rooms are on four-star hotel, opposite the cathedral
the elderly side too, though bathrooms and rooms at the front throw open their win-
ACCOMMODATION
tile floors have been upgraded. But its a dows to balconies with superb views. Its an
fine building in a good location, and many old-money kind of place, with faithful-
rooms have Ramblas-facing balconies as retainer staff and huge public salons.
does the dining room, where breakfast is Superior rooms have an Edwardian lounge
available (not included). e80. area and highly floral decor, though other
Mare Nostrum Ramblas 67 t 933 185 rooms are more contemporary. From e250.
340, f 934 123 069. Comfortable double Fernando c/de Ferran 31 t 933 017
or triple/family rooms with satellite TV and 993. Rooms at these prices fill quickly; that
air conditioning nothing flashy, but mod- theyre also light, modern and well kept by
friendly people is a real bonus. All come
Hotels
ern, well kept and double-glazed against the

noise. Some come with balconies and street with sinks and TV, with or without attached
views, others are internal. Breakfast includ- shower. Dorm accommodation (e19) is
ed. e65, e75 en suite. available on the top floor in rooms that
Oriente Ramblas 45 t 933 022 558, sleep four to eight, some with attached
w www.husa.es. If youre looking for bathroom. e40, en suite e50.
somewhere traditional on the Ramblas, this Hesperia Metropol c/Ample 31 t 933
historic three-star is your best bet mid- 105 100, w www.hesperia-
nineteenth-century style in the grand public metropol.com. Stylish conversion of an
rooms and tastefully updated bedrooms. older building that because its slightly off
Breakfast included. From e150. the beaten old-town track has remarkably
Rivoli Ramblas Ramblas 128 t 934 817 good prices. The lobby is a masterpiece of
676, w www.rivolihotels.com. The ele- contemporary design, while rooms are
gant, soundproofed rooms come with satel- understated but comfortable street noise
lite TV and spacious bathrooms, the front isnt too bad, either. From e120.
ones with classic Ramblas views. Theres Jard Pl. Sant Josep Oriol 1 t 933 015
also a lovely rooftop terrace and bar, while 900, e hoteljardi@retemail.es. The loca-
guests can also use the rooftop deck and tion sells this place overlooking the
small pool at the cheaper sister hotel, the charming Plaa del Pi which explains the
Ambassador, across the Ramblas in the steepish prices for rooms that, though
Raval. From e250. smart and modern, can be a bit bare and
even poky. But the bathrooms have been
nicely done, and some rooms (the top ones
Barri Gtic have terraces) look directly onto the square.
Adagio c/de Ferran 21 t 933 189 061, You can have breakfast here (not included),
w www.adagiohotel.com. Rooms on five but the Bar del Pi in the square is a better
floors (theres an elevator) have been given bet. e80.
a thorough refurbishment new beds, par- Levante Bxda. Sant Miquel 2 t 933 179
quet floors, satellite TV, air conditioning, 565, w www.hostallevante.com. A back-
soundproofing and decent bathrooms and packers favourite with fifty rooms singles,
a buffet breakfast is included. Front and doubles, twins, triples on two rambling
side rooms have little balconies. e90. floors. Some rooms are much better than
Aviny c/dAviny 42 t 933 187 945, others (with newer pine furniture, en-suite
w www.hostalavinyo.com. All the rooms bathrooms and balconies), while the com-
here are freshly painted or tiled, with and ings and goings arent to everyones liking,
without private bath, and all boast a ceiling but prices are reasonable. e50, en suite
fan. Theres a fair amount of space and e60.
some rooms have little sofas. Note that Mari-Luz c/de la Palau 4, 2 t & f 933
c/dAviny is noisy at weekends. No credit 173 463, e pensionmariluz@menta.net.
179
This old mansion, on a quieter than usual many with a small balcony onto the street
Barri Gtic street, has six inexpensive dou- or the rear. Room 202 has a lovely private
bles with shared bathrooms. Someones terrace, though the bathroom for this one is
been to IKEA for furniture and there are art down the hall; singles are boxlike but
prints on the walls, laundry facilities and a cheap. No credit cards. e40, en suite e50.
small kitchen. The drawback is that this is a
hostel, too, with 35 dorm beds (e1518
depending on season) in various other Port Vell
rooms, and its a tight squeeze when full. Grand Marina World Trade Centre, Moll
From e40. de Barcelona t 936 039 000,
Neri c/de Sant Sever 5 933 040 655, w www.grandmarinahotel.com. Five-star
w www.hotelneri.com. Eighteenth-century comforts on eight floors overlooking the
palace close to the cathedral thats given port. Most of the rooms have enormous
the boutique treatment to its 22 stylish marble bathrooms with jacuzzi baths and a
rooms and filled them the latest mod cons separate dressing area. Public areas draw
plasma-screen TV, movies on demand, gasps, with commissioned works by Catalan
Internet access and CD player. A tranquil artists and a rooftop pool with fantastic
roof terrace provides a nice escape, and views. Winter-season and other special
theres a good contemporary Mediterranean rates sometimes bring the price down to
restaurant attached. From e180. under e200; otherwise, from e300.
Nouvel c/Santa Anna 1820 t 933 018
274, w www.hotelnouvel.com. Rooms dif-
fer in size at this 1920s era hotel, but come El Raval and around
with brass or wooden bedsteads, high ceil- Australia Ronda Universitat 11, 4 t 933
ings, air conditioning and compact bath- 174 177, w www.residenciaustralia.com.
rooms one has a jacuzzi bath. Its best at The voluble Maria is well into her third
the back, where rooms have little sunny ter- decade looking after visitors, and treats
races, though four spacious corner rooms at everyone kindly. The place is a bit old-fash-
the front have curvacious double balconies. ioned and a bit eccentric you can only go
Be warned the street might be pedestri- up in the elevator, not down (dont ask).
anized, but its not noise-free. Breakfast Theres one single and six doubles, or a
included. e120. more spacious one-bed suite with lounge,
Rembrandt c/Portaferrissa 23 t & fridge and coffee-making machine in the
f 933 181 011. Standard rooms have a next block of the Ronda. e50, en suite
balcony or little patio, while larger ones are e60, suite e65.
more versatile one has a gallery (with sin- Cntric c/Casanova 13 t 934 267 573 or
gle bed above the double) and large corner 902 014 881, w www.hostalcentric.com.
bath, while a rather Victorian-looking suite Most rooms feature new panelling and fur-
(two rooms split by hanging net curtain) can niture, decent beds and plenty of light;
sleep two or four. The friendly owners will cheaper ones on the upper floors (no eleva-
also serve you breakfast, sell you a beer, or tor) share bathrooms, while some of the
rent you a fan. From e50, gallery e60, more expensive ones also have air condi-
suite e75/90. tioning. Theres a sunny terrace at the rear
Rialto c/de Ferran 42 t 933 185 212, and Internet access. e60, en suite from
w www.gargallo-hotels.com/rialto. A e80.
three-star hotel thats more like a family-run Duques de Bergara c/de Bergara 11
concern, with carpeted corridors and heavy t 933 015 151, w www.hoteles-
doors leading into updated period rooms catalonia.es. Handsome late nineteenth-
with parquet flooring, oak furniture and century building whose rooms have a
country-style furnishings. Theres a good bright, contemporary air, with parquet floors,
buffet breakfast. e100. brown marble bathrooms and little sitting
Santa Anna c/Santa Anna 23 t 933 012 areas upgrade to a junior suite and you
246. Attractive little rooms on two floors, get jet-black marble and a jacuzzi bath,
180
lounge area and huge TV. Its set in a small the slightly cell-like quality of the rooms.
side street a few minutes from El Raval, but Theres nothing spartan about the attractive
there are Catalunya views from some bal- galleried inner courtyard (around which the
conies, and a small first-floor outdoor pool rooms are ranged), hung with dozens of
and deck. From e180. plants, while breakfast (included) is served
ACCOMMODATION
Gat Raval c/Joaqun Costa 44, 2 t 934 in the arcaded dining room. e50, en suite
816 670, w www.gataccommodation e70.
.com. Boutique style on a budget folding Sant Agust Pl. Sant Agusti 3 t 933 181
chair, wall-mounted TV, and signature back- 658, w www.hotelsa.com. Barcelonas
lit street photograph/artwork that doubles oldest hotel is housed in a former seven-
as a reading light. Only six of the 24 rooms teenth-century convent building, with bal-
are en suite, but communal facilities are conies overlooking a restored square and
good, and theres Internet access and free namesake church. The appealing rooms
tea and coffee. At the nearby sister hotel, have been modernized and air-conditioned,
Gat Xino, c/Hospital 149155, all the rooms with the best located right in the attic (sup-
Hotels
are en suite and breakfast is included. plement charged), from where there are
e66, en suite e75, Gat Xino e100. rooftop views. Breakfast included. From
Gravina c/Gravina 12 t 933 016 868, e145.
w www.hotelh10gravina.com. The old- Terrassa c/Junta del Comer 11 t 933
style facade deceives, for this is a contem- 025 174, f 933 012 188. Clean and
porary update and good value for money. friendly backpackers favourite, with plain
Its fairly quiet (off the main road), while rooms with a partition shower-toilet those
comfort levels are high toiletries, robes at the back overlook a large sunny terrace,
and hairdryers in the bathrooms, neat little open to all guests. However, prices may rise
window-side armchairs, artwork in the as the owners are putting in proper bath-
sharply styled public areas, and a buffet rooms, adding big closets and fitting dou-
breakfast included in the price. From e150. ble-glazed windows onto the street-side
Grau c/Ramelleres 27 t 933 018 135, balconies. From e40.
w www.hostalgrau.com. A really friendly
place, whose centrally heated rooms on
several floors (no elevator) have new beds, La Ribera and Sant
freshly painted walls and shutters. Theres a
little lounge area with Internet access, plus
Pere
a good choice of breakfasts (not included) Banys Orientals c/de lArgenteria 37
served in the adjacent bar. Six small private t 932 688 460, w www
apartments in the same building (sleeping .hotelbanysorientals.com. Funky boutique
2, 3 or 4, available by the night) offer a bit hotel with classy rooms. Hardwood floors,
more independence. e55, en suite e70, crisp white sheets, sharp marble bathrooms
apartments from e80. and urban-chic decor not to mention the
Meson Castilla c/Valldonzella 5 t 933 bargain prices for this sort of style make it
182 182, w www.husa.es. A throwback to a hugely popular choice. The attached restau-
1950s rural Spain, with every inch carved, rant, Senyor Parellada, is a great find too.
painted and stencilled, from the grandfather e100.
clock in reception to the wardrobe in your Nuevo Coln Avgda. Marqus de
room. Large, air-conditioned rooms (some lArgentera 19, 1 t 933 195 077,
with terraces) filled with country furniture, a w www.hostalnuevocolon.com. In the
vast rustic dining room (buffet breakfast hands of the same friendly family for over
included) and best of all a lovely tiled seventy years, with 26 spacious rooms
rear patio on which to relax in the sun. painted yellow and kitted out with directors
From e120. chairs, good beds and double glazing. Front
Peninsular c/de Sant Pau 34 t 933 023 rooms are very sunny, as is the lounge and
138, f 934 123 699. The building originally terrace, all with side views to Ciutadella
belonging to a priestly order, which explains park. There are also three self-catering
181
apartments available (by the night) in the carpets and robes, enormous marble bath-
same building, which sleep up to six. e45, rooms and fresh flowers. The seafront gar-
en suite e55, apartments e150. dens encompass an open-air pool and hot
Pensi 2000 c/Sant Pere Ms Alt 6, 1 tub, while two fine restaurants, a terrace
t 933 107 466, w www.pensio2000.com. caf, gym and sauna complete the lineup.
As close to a family-style bed and break- Special rates start at around e200; other-
fast as Barcelona gets seven huge rooms wise, from e400.
in a welcoming mansion apartment strewn
with books, plants and pictures. A third per-
son could easily share most rooms (e18 Eixample
extra), while a choice of breakfasts (not Balmes c/Mallorca 216 t 934 511 914,
included) is served either in your room or on w www.derbyhotels.es. Agreeable bou-
the internal patio. e50, en suite e65. tique hotel with sharp-as-a-knife dining and
bar facilities, and classy rooms with parquet
floors and leather sofas. A couple of
Port Olmpic ground-floor rooms have their own terrace
Arts Barcelona c/Marina 1921 t 900 overlooking the lush patio garden, complete
221 900 or 932 211 000, w www.ritz- with swimming pool and bar, and on your
carlton.com/hotels/barcelona. See map way in and out every day you get to browse
on p.118. Thirty-three floors of five-star the African art and sculpture in the lobby.
designer luxury, with fabulous views of the From e250.
port and sea. Service and standards are Claris c/Pau Claris 150 t 934 876 262,
first-rate (theres a team of butlers on call) w www.derbyhotels.es. Very select, very
and the sharply styled rooms are highly palatial, from the incense-scented marble
pleasing, with floor-to-ceiling windows, thick lobby complete with authentic Roman
M
PROVENA DIAGONAL DIAGONAL M

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182
mosaics to the hugely appealing rooms mansion-building with a dozen older-style
ranged around a soaring, water-washed rooms and seven more on the principal
atrium. And how many hotels have their floor below, which have been fitted with
own private antiquities museum? The staff laminate flooring, air conditioning, stylish
couldnt be more accommodating, theres a bed linen and modern bathrooms the
ACCOMMODATION
rooftop terrace pool for those idle moments, three largest (and most expensive, at e90)
a great bar and one of the best hotel open directly onto a terrace. There are sit-
restaurants in the city. From e350. ting areas, and free coffee and tea avail-
Condes de Barcelona Pg. de Grcia able, on both floors. e55, en suite e65/75.
7375 t 934 674 780, w www Granva Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes
.condesdebarcelona.com. Straddling two 642 t 933 181 900, w www.nnhotels.es.
sides of c/Mallorca, the Condes is fashioned An attractive town house built for a nine-
from two former palaces, its rooms all turned teenth-century banking family, with grand
out in contemporary style, some with jacuzzi public rooms exuding old-style comfort. You
and balcony, some with views of Gauds La may be less lucky with your own room, as
Hotels
Pedrera. Best deal are those on the south some of the accommodation is cramped,
side, seventh floor exterior, with fantastic pri- but theres a nice roof terrace. Prices are
vate terraces but charging standard room pretty reasonable too, given that air condi-
rates. Theres also a roof terrace and plunge tioning, full bath and satellite TV come as
pool, bar and restaurant. From e250. standard. e120.
DUxelles Gran Via de les Corts Majestic Pg. de Grcia 68 t 934 881
Catalanes 688 t 932 652 560, 717, w www.hotelmajestic.es. Big, tradi-
w www.hotelduxelles.com. The elegant tional hotel, refitted in muted colours to pro-
nineteenth-century town-house rooms fea- vide a tranquil base. Objets and limited-
ture wrought-iron bedsteads, typical tiled edition art adorn the public areas, and the
floors and Andalucian-style bathrooms, and rooms bigger than many in this price
some also have balconies and little private range have been pleasantly refurbished,
patios (its quietest at the back of the build- but the absolute clincher is the rooftop pool
ing). Prices are highly reasonable, and extra and deck, with amazing views over the
beds can be placed in many rooms a few rooftops to the Sagrada Famlia. The restau-
rooms are also available in another building rant is excellent too. From e320.
at Gran Via 667. e100. Oliva Pg. de Grcia 32, 4 t 934 881
Ginebra Rambla de Catalunya 1, 3 t 933 789 or 934 880 162, w www.lasguias
171 063, e hotelginebra@telefonica .com/hostaloliva. Ride the antique elevator
.net. Good-sized rooms with nice old furni- to the top floor for an Eixample bargain
ture, bathrooms you can turn round in for a marble floors, high ceilings and plenty of
change, pot plants, cappuccino machine and light in rooms that have been freshly deco-
small bar. All rooms come with TV and air rated with a bit of zest. If you want a bal-
conditioning, and some have impressive cony and a view, be warned that the noise
views of Plaa de Catalunya ask for one of permeates, even at these rariefied levels.
the four with a balcony. e75. No credit cards. e50, en suite e60.
Girona c/Girona 24, 1 t 932 650 259, Omm c/Rossell 265 t 934 454 000,
w www.hostalgirona.com. The entrance w www.hotelomm.es. Barcelonas most
has a positively baronial stairway and things fashionable restaurant group, Tragaluz, has
are scarcely any less impressive inside the entered the hotel game with the designer
family-run building a wide range of cosy experience that is Omm sixty elegantly
rooms (some sharing a bathroom, others presented rooms in muted colours with
with a shower or full bath), corridors laid open-plan bathrooms, a studiously chic bar
with rugs, polished wooden doors, paintings and restaurant, terrace and pool, and fear-
and restored furniture. From e46, full en somely handsome staff. From e300.
suite e55. Paseo de Grcia Pg. de Grcia 102
Goya c/de Pau Claris 74, 1 t 933 022 t 932 155 824, f 932 153 724. Some
565, w www.hostalgoya.com. Upgraded might find this funereal, others will delight
183
in its faded 1950s charm the lounge, in green-baize terrace and city views. These
particular, is an untouched relic of bygone are the same price as other rooms but go
days. Rooms, too, have yet to see a renova- quickly. e180.
tor, which means ageing tiling and furniture, Ritz Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 668
but prices are pitched accordingly. Some t 935 101 130, w www.ritzbcn.com.
ACCOMMODATION Youth hostels

rooms on the upper floors have terraces Formally attired staff jump to your every
and city views, but you cant book these in command, while your domain extends to
advance. e75. opulent lounges, a terrace-garden, bar,
Prestige Pg. de Grcia 62 t 932 724 restaurant and health club. The suites are
180, w www.prestigepaseodegracia sensational, but for these as for the
.com. A sharp redesign of a 1930s deluxe rooms (theres no such thing as
Eixample building has added achingly fash- standard at the Ritz) youre paying
ionable minimalist rooms, an Oriental-style crazily inflated prices. From e400.
internal patio garden and the Zeroom, a Rondas c/Girona 4, 3 t 932 325 102. A
lounge with wireless Internet facility and cheap choice with a friendly English-speak-
style library. Its almost a parody of itself its ing welcome and a touch of domesticity
so cool, but the staff keep things real and an old carved bed in one room, the share of
are very helpful. Functional (ie standard) a balcony onto the street in another. Good
rooms are a bit less impressive, so upgrade for lone travellers, as there are four singles
if you can. From e200. (e30); otherwise, six cramped doubles
Regente Rambla de Catalunya 76 t 934 available, some with attached shower and
875 989, w www.hcchotels.es. Theyve toilet. No credit cards. e40, en suite e45.
restored the modernista facade and kept Windsor Rambla de Catalunya 84 t 932
the decorative panelling and stained glass; 151 198. Genteel place with English-speak-
together with the rooftop pool, garden ter- ing management, set in a lovingly furnished
race and funky bar, thats some attraction. building on the Eixamples nicest avenue.
But even the hotel recommends an internal There are fifteen rooms, all with en-suite
room to escape the street noise, so its best shower and toilet (and often booked long in
to book a rear top-floor room with private advance). No credit cards. e70.
Youth hostels
Although there are lots of hos- youth hostel bookings is at
tels in Barcelona, you should Barcelona Sants (see box p.75).
always make an advance reserva- Unless otherwise stated, the
tion as most of them are very hostels below are marked on the
popular. Internet access, map on pp.176177.
kitchens, common/games rooms
Albergue Verge de Montserrat Pg. de
and laundry facilities are stan-
la Mare de Du del Coll 4151, Horta
dard always use the lockers or
t 932 105 151, w www.tujuca.com. Not
safes provided (for which theres
on map. Converted mansion with gardens,
sometimes a small charge).You
terrace and city views a long way out,
need an International Youth
but close to Parc Gell (mVallcarca and
Hostel Federation (IYHF) card
10min walk, or bus #28 from Pl. de
for a couple of the hostels, but
Catalunya). Multi-bedded dorms sleep 4, 6,
you can join on checkin.The
8 and 12, with local restaurant just around
only tourist office to handle
184
the corner or meals provided. IYHF mem- Itaca c/Ripoll 21, Barri Gtic t 933 019
bership required; five-night maximum stay. 751, w www.itacahostel.com. Bright and
e23 includes breakfast, low season e19. breezy house close to the cathedral with
Barcelona Mar c/de Sant Pau 80, El unusually spacious rooms (sleeping 8 or 12)
Raval t 933 248 530, w www.youthostel- with balconies. Dorms are mixed, though
ACCOMMODATION
barcelona.com. Large hostel with mixed there is a six-bed women-only dorm and
dorms in 6-, 8-, 10-, 14- or 16-bedded one double room (e50, low season e44)
rooms on the fringe of the Rambla de available. No TV lounge, but a kitchen, cof-
Raval. Its a secure place, with 24hr recep- fee machine and choice of three e2 break-
tion. e23 includes breakfast, low season fasts. e21, low season e18.
e1820. Kabul Pl. Reial 17, Barri Gtic t 933 185
Center Ramblas c/Hospital 63, El Raval 190, w www.kabul-hostel.com. A budget
t 934 124 069, w www.center- travellers haven in the heart of the old town
ramblas.com. Very popular 200-bed hos- open 24hr, with a good notice board, pool
tel, given its location 100m from the
Youth hostels
table and terrace, and weekly pub crawls to

Ramblas, and well equipped with 3- to 10- help you get acquainted. A big, monastic-
bed dorms, lounge, bar and travel library. style common room/bar overlooks the
Open 24hr. IYHF membership required. No square. It has reputation as a bit of a party
credit cards. Under-26s e15.50, over 26s place, but its safe and welcoming enough.
e20, includes breakfast. Rooms vary in size and number of beds and
Gothic Point c/Vigatans 5, La Ribera are priced accordingly. e1724, low sea-
t 932 687 808, w www.gothicpoint.com. son e1417, includes breakfast.
A grand downstairs communal area shows Sea Point Pl. del Mar 14, Barceloneta
off the buildings dramatic proportions, and t 932 247 075, w www.seapointhostel
on the roof theres mini-golf. Rooms have .com. See map on p.74 Neat little modern
14 bunks and attached bathrooms, and bunk rooms sleeping 6 or 7, with an inte-
each bed gets its own bedside cabinet and gral shower-bathroom in each one. The
reading light. Bike rental available. Open attached caf, where you have breakfast,
24hr. e21 includes breakfast, low season looks right out onto the boardwalk and palm
e18. trees. Bike rental available. Open 24hr. e21
includes breakfast, low season e18.
Essentials
Contents Essentials
Contents Essentials
187
Arrival
Whatever your point of arrival, its easy to t 902 240 202, w www.renfe.es). The
get to central Barcelona. In most cases, citys main station is Barcelona Sants,
you can be off the plane, train or bus and 3km west of the centre, with a metro sta-
in your hotel room within the hour. tion (called mSants Estaci) that links
ESSENTIALS
directly to the Ramblas (mLiceu), Plaa
By air de Catalunya and Passeig de Grcia.
Some Spanish intercity services and inter-
Barcelonas airport at El Prat de Llobre- national trains also stop at Estaci de
gat (t 902 400 550, w www.aena.es) is Frana, 1km east of the Ramblas and
12km southwest of the city. Easyjet uses close to mBarceloneta.
Terminal A, British Airways and Iberia Ter- Regional and local commuter train serv-
Arrival Information
minal B. Theres a tourist office in each ices are operated by FGC (t932 051 515,
terminal, handling hotel bookings; there wwww.fgc.es), with stations at Plaa de
are also ATMs, exchange facilities and car Catalunya, at the top of the Ramblas (for
rental offices. trains from the airport and from coastal
A metered taxi to the centre costs towns north of the city); Plaa dEspanya
e2025, including the airport surcharge (Montserrat); and Passeig de Grcia
(and note other surcharges for travel after (Catalunya provincial destinations).
10pm, at weekends or for luggage in the The main bus terminal is the Estaci
boot). Far cheaper is the airport train del Nord (t 932 656 508; mArc de Tri-
(6.13am10.43pm; journey time 18min; omf), three blocks north of Parc de la
e2.25; info on t 902 240 202), which Ciutadella. Some intercity buses also
runs every thirty minutes to Barcelona make a stop at the bus terminal behind
Sants (see By rail and road below) and Barcelona Sants station, while internation-
continues on to Plaa de Catalunya (best al buses tend to stop only at Barcelona
stop for the Ramblas and Barri Gtic) and Sants. Either way, youre only a short
Arc de Triomf (for La Ribera). There are metro ride from the city centre.
metro stations at each of these stops too. With a car, the best advice is to head
Alternatively, the Aerobs service straight for a signposted central car park
(MonFri 5.30am11pm, Sat & Sun (from e1.60 per hr, or e17.5020 for
6am11.30pm; e3.45) leaves every 24hr), which include those at Plaa de
twelve minutes, stopping in the city at Catalunya, Plaa Urquinaona, Arc de Tri-
Plaa dEspanya, Plaa Universitat, Plaa omf, Passeig de Grcia, Plaa dels
de Catalunya and Passeig de Grcia. It Angels/MACBA and Avinguda Paral.lel. It
takes around thirty minutes to reach Plaa can be tough to find street parking,
de Catalunya, though allow longer in the especially in the old town (where its near-
rush hour. ly all residents parking only). In the
Eixample the ubiquitous blue meter-zones
By rail and road are for pay-and-display parking, usually
with a two-hour maximum stay.
The national rail service is operated by
RENFE (fare and timetable information on
Information
The citys tourist board, Turisme de Spain, t 932 853 834 from abroad,
Barcelona (t 807 117 222 from within w www.barcelonaturisme.com), has useful
Contents Essentials
188
offices on arrival at the airport and ings magazine is the paperback-book-
Barcelona Sants. The main city office is in sized, Spanish-language Guia del Ocio
Plaa de Catalunya (daily 9am9pm; (out every Thursday; w www
mCatalunya), down the steps in the .guiadelociobcn.es), available at kiosks all
southeast corner of the square, where over the city.
theres a money exchange service and Our maps will guide you around the
separate accommodation desk. Theres city, though for an excellent tough, water-
ESSENTIALS
also an office in the Barri Gtic at Plaa proof street plan with full practical
de Sant Jaume, entrance at c/Ciutat 2 information and listings, look no further
(MonFri 9am8pm, Sat 10am8pm, than Barcelona: The Rough Guide Map.
Sun & hols 10am2pm; mJaume I).
For information about travelling in the Barcelona on the Internet
wider province of Catalunya, you need the The city tourist office website
Centre dInformaci de Catalunya at (w www.barcelonaturisme.com) is a good
Information
Palau Robert, Pg. de Grcia 107, Eixam- place to start and, along with those oper-
ple, mDiagonal ( t 932 384 000, ated by the city hall (Ajuntament;
w www.gencat.net/probert; MonSat w www.bcn.es) and local government
10am7.30pm, Sun & hols 10am (Generalitat; w www.gencat.es), has a full
2.30pm). English-language version. From these
For anything else you might need to three alone youll be able to find out
know, try the citys t 010 telephone museum opening hours, bus routes, local
enquiries service (MonSat 8am10pm; politics, all-night pharmacies, festivals,
some English-speaking staff available). sports, theatres and much, much more.
Theyll be able to help with questions The sites listed below offer more special-
about transport, public services and other ized information.
matters.
Events, concerts, exhibitions and festi- w www.barcelona-on-line.es Packed
vals are covered in full at the walk-in with information in English on Barcelona,
office of the Institut de Cultura at the with searchable listings and an entertain-
ment guide.
Palau de la Virreina, Ramblas 99,
w www.catalanencyclopaedia.com
mLiceu ( t 933 017 775, w www English-language online encyclopedia, for
.bcn.es/cultura; MonSat 10am8pm, full information about all matters Catalan.
Sun 11am3pm). The most useful list- w www.gaudiclub.com The best first stop
Discount cards
If youre going to do a lot of sightseeing, you can save yourself money by buying
one of the available discount cards.
Barcelona Card (1 day e16.25, 2 days e19.25, 3 days e22.25, 4 days e24 or
5 days e26). Free public transport, plus museum and attraction discounts.
Available at the Plaa de Catalunya and airport tourist offices, Estaci del Nord bus
station and other outlets.
Articket (e15; valid three months; w www.articketbcn.com). Half-price admis-
sion into six major art galleries (including MNAC, MACBA, and Tpies and Mir
foundations). Buy it at participating galleries, or at Plaa de Catalunya or Barcelona
Sants tourist office.
Ruta del Modernisme (e12; valid one year; w www.rutamodernisme.com).
Glossy English-language guide and map, containing vouchers for significant dis-
counts to most major modernista sites and attractions (including Sagrada Famlia
and La Pedrera), plus other benefits. Available in city bookshops and at the Centre
del Modernisme outlets in Casa Amatller (Eixample, p.124) and Hospital de la Santa
Creu i de Sant Pau (Sagrada Famlia and Glries, p.136).
Contents Essentials
189
for Antoni Gaud and his works, with plenty Barcelona), with links to the Paginas
of links to other sites. Blancas (White Pages find a person) and
w www.intercat.gencat.es/guia The a Barcelona street-finder.
University of Barcelonas online English w www.rutadisseny.com Designer guide
Catalan phrase book, with an audio option. to the citys most cutting-edge shops, bars,
w www.paginasamarillas.es The Spanish restaurants and buildings, with maps,
Yellow Pages (find any business in reviews and walking itineraries.
ESSENTIALS
City transport and tours
Barcelonas excellent integrated transport 50/30 (50 trips within a 30-day period;

system comprises the metro, buses and e25); or the T-Mes (1 month; e38.80).
local trains, plus a network of funiculars Prices given above are for passes valid as
and cable cars. Detailed transport infor- far as the Zone 1 city limits, which in
mation is available by telephone (t 010) practice is everywhere youre likely to
and in English on the Internet want to go except the airport, Montserrat
(w www.tmb.net), and theres an invalu- and Sitges. For single trips to these and
able free public transport map ( Guia other out-of-town destinations, its best to
dAutobusos Urbans de Barcelona), avail- buy a specific ticket.
able at TMB customer service centres at
Barcelona Sants station, and Diagonal, The metro
Sagrada Famlia and Universitat metro
stations. The map and ticket information The quickest way of getting around
is also posted at major bus stops and all Barcelona is by metro. Entrances are
metro stations. Theres no need to rent a marked with a red diamond sign with an
car to see anything in the city, while day- M. Its hours of operation are Monday
trips to Sitges (p.168) and Montserrat to Thursday 5am to midnight; Friday, Sat-
(p.164) are best undertaken anyway by urday and the day before a public holiday
public transport. 5am to 2am; Sunday and public holidays
6am to midnight. The system is perfectly
Tickets and travel safe, though many of the train carriages
passes are heavily graffitied. Buskers and beg-
gars are common, zipping from one
On all the citys public transport you can carriage to the next at stations.
buy a single ticket every time you ride
(e1.10), but its much cheaper to buy a Buses and trains
targeta a discount ticket strip. They are
available at metro and train stations, but Most buses operate daily, roughly from 4
not on the buses. The best general deal is or 5am until 10.30pm. Night buses
the T-10 (tay day-oo in Catalan) targeta (autobusos nocturns or simply Nitbus) fill
(e6), valid for ten separate journeys, with in the gaps on all the main routes, with
changes between methods of transport services every twenty to sixty minutes
allowed within 75 minutes. The ticket can from around 10pm to 4am.
also be used by more than one person at The FGC commuter train line has its
a time punch it the same number of main stations at Plaa de Catalunya and
times as there are people travelling. Plaa dEspanya. Youll use this going to
Other useful (single-person) targetes Sarri, Vallvidrera, Tibidabo and Montser-
include: the T-Dia (tay dee-ah; 1 days rat, and details are given in the text where
unlimited travel; e4.60), plus combos up appropriate. The national rail service,
to the 5-Dies (5 days; e18.20); the T- RENFE, runs all the other services out of
Contents Essentials
190
Barcelona, with local lines designated as other stops tickets are available on
Rodiales/Cercanas. The hub is board.
Barcelona Sants station, with services Advance booking is advised (at Pl. de
also passing through Plaa de Catalunya Catalunya tourist office) for Barcelona
(heading north) and Passeig de Grcia Walking Tours ninety-minute historical
(south). Barri Gtic tour (Sat & Sun all year, in
English at 10am; plus AprilSept Thurs &
Funiculars, tram and
ESSENTIALS
Fri at 10am; e8). Theres also a Picasso

cable cars Tour (Sat & Sun all year, in English at
10.30am; e10).
Several funicular railways still operate in The guides at My Favourite Things
the city, most notably to Montjuc (see ( t 933 295 351 or 637 265 405,
p.112) and Tibidabo (p.160). Weekend w www.myft.net) reveal Barcelona in a
visits to Tibidabo also combine a funicular new light, particularly on the signature tour
trip with a ride on the antique tram, the My Favourite Fusion, which gives an
Tramvia Blau (p.160). There are two insiders view of the city. Tours (in English,
cable-car (telefric) rides you can make: flexible departures, call for information)
from Barceloneta across the harbour to cost e25 per person and last around four
Montjuc (see p.78), and then from the hours, and theres always time for diver-
top station of the Montjuc funicular right sions, workshop visits and caf stops.
the way up to the castle (p.113). The Travel Bar at c/Boqueria 27, Barri
Gtic, m Liceu ( t 933 425 252,
Taxis w www.travelbar.com), organizes a vari-
ety of youth-oriented tours, including an
Black-and-yellow taxis are inexpensive evening bar crawl (e26), tapas bar tour
and plentiful. Theres a minimum charge (e33), bike tour (e58) and kayaking on
of e1.15 (e1.30 after 10pm, weekends the harbour (JuneSept only; e23).
and holidays) and after that its currently There are also city bike tours (March to
e0.69/0.88 per kilometre. Most short mid-Dec 12 daily; e22) with Fat Tire
journeys across town run to around e6. Bike Tours ( t 933 013 612, w www
There are taxi ranks outside major train .fattirebiketoursbarcelona.com) and oth-
and metro stations, in main squares, near ers, including Un Coxte Menys (see
large hotels and at places along the main Directory: Bike rental on p.192).
avenues. To call a taxi in advance (few of To see Barcelona from the sea, go with
the operators speak English, and youll be Las Golondrinas ( t 934 423 106,
charged around an extra e3), try Barna w www.lasgolondrinas.com), whose daily
Taxis t 933 577 755, Fono-Taxi t 933 sightseeing boats depart (at least hourly
001 100, Radio Taxi Barcelona t 932 JuneSept; less frequently OctMay)
250 000, Radio Taxi 033 t 933 033 from the quayside opposite the Columbus
033, Servi-Taxi t 933 300 300, or Taxi statue, at the bottom of the Ramblas
Amic t 934 208 088. (mDrassanes), and visit either the port
(35min; e3.50), or port and local coast
City tours (1hr 30min; e8.50).
Catamaran Orsom (t 932 258 260,
Two main tour-bus operators feature daily w www.barcelona-orsom.com) has three
board-at-will, open-top services (1 day daily afternoon departures (e12) from the
e16, 2 days e20), which can drop you same quayside theres a ticket kiosk
outside every attraction in the city. The there, or phone and reserve the day
choice is between Barcelona Tours or before. The catamaran also has a sum-
the Bus Turstic, with frequent depar- mer evening jazz cruise (daily June, July
tures from Plaa de Catalunya and many & Aug; e12).
Contents Essentials
191
Festivals and events

Almost any month you visit Barcelona Festa Major de Grcia
youll coincide with a festival, event or A mid- to late-August extravaganza
holiday. The best are picked out below, (w www.festamajordegracia.org) of music,
but for a full list call into the Palau de la dancing, decorated floats and streets, noisy
ESSENTIALS
Virreina (see p.53), or check out the Ajun- fireworks, parades of giants and devils, and
tament (city hall) website w www.bcn.es. human castle-building takes place in the
streets and squares of Barcelonas most
Dia de Sant Jordi vibrant neighbourhood. The festivities last a
St Georges Day (April 23) celebrates week dont miss them if youre in town.
Catalunyas patron saint, with hundreds of
book and flower stalls down the Ramblas, Festa de la Merc
Festivals and events

on Passg de Grcia and in Plaa de Sant The citys main festival (w www.bcn.es
Jaume. /merce) dedicated to Our Lady of Mercy
is celebrated for several days around Sep-
Marat de lEspectacle tember 24 (with the 24th a public holiday).
Every June or July its time for the annual There are live bands and traditional dancing
Entertainment Marathon (w www.marato outside the cathedral and in central squares,
.com), a nonstop, two-day festival of local plus a parade of costumed giants and fire-
theatre, dance, mime, cabaret, music and running devils, a breathtaking firework
childrens shows, which takes place at the display choreographed to music, human
Mercat de les Flors theatre. tower competitions, and road and bike races.
Verbena/Dia de Sant Joan Festival de Jazz

The eve and day of St John (June The annual jazz festival in October/
23/24) herald probably the wildest cele- November attracts big-name solo artists
brations in the city, with a night of fire of and bands to the clubs, as well as smaller-
bonfires and fireworks (particularly on scale street concerts.
Montjuc), drinking and dancing, and
watching the sun come up on the beach. Christmas
The day itself (June 24) is a public holi- For more than two hundred years the
day. Christmas season has seen a special
market and crafts fair, the Fira de Santa
Snar Llcia (Dec 122), outside the cathedral.
Snar (w www.sonar.es), Europes biggest Browse for gifts, or watch the locals snap-
and most cutting-edge electronic music ping up Christmas trees, nativity figures
and multimedia art festival, presents three and traditional decorations.
days of brilliant noise and spectacle every
June. Experience DJs, VDJs, gigs, confer- New Year
ences, exhibitions and installations at At Cap dAny (New Years Eve) there are
venues across the city. mass gatherings in Plaa de Catalunya and
other main squares. Youre supposed to eat
Festival del Grec 12 grapes in the last 12 seconds of the
Starting in the last week of June (and year for 12 months of good luck. The Three
running throughout July and into August), Kings (who traditionally distribute seasonal
the Grec performing arts festival gifts to Spanish children) arrive by sea at
(w www.bcn.es/grec) incorporates the- the port at about 5pm on January 5 and
atre, music and dance, some of it free, undertake the Cavalcada de Reis, riding
much of it performed at Montjucs Teatre into town, throwing sweets as they go. The
Grec (see p.110). traditional gift-giving is the next day (Jan
6).
Contents Essentials
192
Directory
AIRPORT Trains to the airport depart every mHospital Clinic t 933 666 200,
30min from Barcelona Sants w www.ukinspain.com; Canada, c/Elisenda
(5.43am10.13pm; e2.25) or Pl. de de Pins 10, Sarri, FGC Reina Elisenda
Catalunya (6.08am10.08pm). Aerobs t 932 042 700, w www.canada-es.org;
runs every 12min from Pl. de Catalunya, Pg. Republic of Ireland, Gran Via Carles III 94,
ESSENTIALS
de Grcia or Pl. dEspanya (MonFri Les Corts, mMaria Cristina/Les Corts

6ammidnight, Sat & Sun 6.30am t 934 915 021; New Zealand, Trav. de
midnight; e3.45). Grcia 64, Grcia, FGC Grcia t 932 090
BANKS AND EXCHANGE Normal banking 399; USA, Pg. de la Reina Elisenda 23,
hours are Monday to Friday from 8.30am Sarri, FGC Reina Elisenda t 932 802 227,
to 2pm. Outside these hours you can use w www.embusa.es.
an exchange office, including those at the CRIME To avoid petty crime: sling bags
airport (daily 7.30am10.45pm), Barcelona
Directory
across your body, not off one shoulder;

Sants (daily 8am10pm), El Corte Ingls dont carry wallets in zipped or back pock-
(MonSat 10am9.30pm), and the Pl. de ets; and dont hang bags on the back of a
Catalunya tourist office (MonSat caf chair. Make photocopies of your pass-
9am9pm, Sun 9am2pm). However, by far port, leaving the original and any tickets in
the easiest way to get money is to use your the hotel safe. The crowded Ramblas and
bank debit card to withdraw cash from an the medieval streets to either side are
ATM, found all over the city, including the where you most need to be on your guard
airport and major train stations. You can keep a hand on your wallet or bag if it
usually withdraw up to e300 a day and appears youre being distracted. However,
instructions are offered in English once you dont be unduly paranoid. The potential for
insert your card. violent street crime is much lower than in
BIKE RENTAL Half-day rental costs around British and US cities.
e1015, full-day e25, from: Biciclot, Pg. DISABLED TRAVELLERS Barcelonas air-
Martim 3335, Port Olmpic, mCiutadella- port and Aerobs are fully accessible to
Vila Olmpica t 932 219 778, w www. travellers in wheelchairs. The metro is more
biciclot.net; Bicitram, Avgda. Marqus de problematic since only line 2 is easily
lArgentera 15, La Ribera, mBarceloneta accessible, with elevators at major stations
t 607 226 069 or 636 401 997 (weekends (including Pg. de Grcia and Sagrada
& hols only); Decathlon, Pl. Villa de Madrid Famila) from the street to the platforms.
13, Barri Gtic, mCatalunya t 933 426 However, many city buses have been adapt-
161; Scenic, c/Marina 22, Port Olmpic, ed for wheelchair use, with automatic
mCiutadella-Vila Olmpica t 932 211 666; ramps/steps and a designated wheelchair
Un Coxte Menys, c/Esparteria 3, La Ribera space inside. The Institut Municipal de
mBarceloneta t 932 682 105, Disminuits (c/Llacuna 161, 3 t 932 918
w www.bicicletabarcelona.com. 400; mLlacuna) produces an accessibility
CINEMA Films at most of the larger cine- booklet, Guia dAccessibilitat, available from
mas and multiplexes (including the tourist offices, though if youre coming for
Maremgnum screens at Port Vell) are usu- the showpiece attractions, note that only the
ally shown dubbed into Spanish or Catalan. Fundaco Joan Mir, Fundaco Antoni
However, several cinemas do show original- Tpies, La Pedrera, Caixa Forum, Museu de
language (versin original or V.O.) foreign la Cincia, Museu dHistria de Catalunya
films, and are listed in the weeks Guia del and Palau de la Msica are fully accessible;
Ocio. Tickets cost around e6, while most most old-town attractions, including the
cinemas have discounted entry one night Museu Picasso, have steps or other impedi-
(usually Mon or Wed), costing around e4. ments to access. The city information line
Many also feature late-night weekend t 010 also has accessibility information
screenings (madrugadas), at 12.30 or 1am. for hotels, restaurants, museums, bars and
Best art-house cinema is the Generalitats stores.
Filmoteca (see p.141). EMERGENCY SERVICES Call t 112 for
CONSULATES Australia, Gran Via Carles III ambulance, police and fire services; t 061
98, Les Corts, mMaria Cristina/Les Corts for an ambulance.
t 934 909 013, w www.embaustralia.es; GAY AND LESBIAN For up-to-date infor-
Britain, Avgda. Diagonal 477, Eixample, mation and other advice, contact the lesbian
Contents Essentials
193
and gay city telephone hotline on t 900 provncies i estranger or altres destins.
601 601 (MonFri 610pm only). Ca la MONEY Spains currency is the euro (e),
Dona (c/de Casp 38, Eixample t 934 127 with notes issued in denominations of 5,
161, w www.caladona.pangea.org; 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros, and
mUrquinaona), a womens centre with coins in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20
library and bar, is used for meetings of fem- and 50 cents, and 1 and 2 euros.
inist and lesbian organizations; information NEWSPAPERS AND MAGAZINES Foreign
available to callers. General listings maga- newspapers and magazines are available
zine Guia del Ocio can put you on the right from the stalls down the Ramblas, on Pg.
ESSENTIALS
track for bars and clubs, though theres also de Grcia, on Rambla de Catalunya, around
a good free magazine called Nois, widely Pl. de Catalunya and at Barcelona Sants. Or
available in bars and clubs, which carries try Llibreria Mallorca, Rambla de Catalunya
an up-to-date review of the scene. For full 86, Eixample, mPasseig de Grcia, which
listings and other links, the Web portal stocks a big selection of British and
w www.gaybarcelona.net is extremely use- American newspapers and magazines.
ful. The annual lesbian and gay pride march PHARMACIES Usual hours are 9am to 1pm
Directory
is on the nearest Saturday to June 28. and 4 to 8pm. At least one in each neigh-
HOSPITALS The following central hospitals bourhood is open 24hr (and marked as
have 24hr accident and emergency servic- such), or phone t 010 for information on
es: Centre Perecamps, Avgda. Drassanes those open out of hours. A list of out-of-
1315, El Raval, mDrassanes t 934 410 hours pharmacies can also be found in the
600; Hospital Clinic i Provincial, window of each pharmacy store.
c/Villaroel 170, Eixample, mHospital Clinic POLICE The easiest place to report a crime
t 932 275 400; Hospital del Mar, Pg. is at the Gurdia Urbana (city police) station
Maritm 2529, Vila Olmpica, mCiutadella- at Ramblas 43, opposite Pl. Reial, mLiceu
Vila Olmpica t 932 489 011; Hospital de t 933 441 300 (open 24hr; English spo-
la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau, c/Sant ken). If youve had something stolen, you
Antoni Maria Claret, Eixample, mHospital need to go in person for the insurance
de Sant Pau t 932 919 000. report to the Polica Nacional office at c/Nou
INTERNET ACCESS There are Internet de la Rambla 80, El Raval, mParal.lel (take
places all over Barcelona, and competition your passport).
has driven prices down to around e1 an PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Official holidays are:
hour. January 1 (Cap dAny, New Years Day);
LEFT LUGGAGE Barcelona Sants office January 6 (Epifana, Epiphany); Good
(daily 7am11pm; e34.50 a day). Friday & Easter Monday; May 1 (Dia del
Lockers at Estaci de Frana, Passeig de Treball, May Day/Labour Day); June 24 (Dia
Grcia station and Estaci del Nord (all de Sant Joan, St Johns Day); August 15
6am11.30pm; e34.50 a day). (LAssumpci, Assumption of the Virgin);
LOST PROPERTY The main lost property September 11 (La Diada, Catalan National
office (objectes perduts) is at c/de la Ciutat Day); September 24 (Festa de la Merc,
9, Barri Gtic, mJaume I (MonFri Our Lady of Merc, Barcelonas patron
9.30am1.30pm; t 934 023 161). You saint); October 12 (Da de la Hispanidad,
could also try the transport office at Spanish National Day); November 1 (Tots
mUniversitat station. Sants, All Saints Day); December 6 (Dia
MAIL The main post office (Correus) is on de la Constituci, Constitution Day);
Pl. dAntoni Lpez, at the eastern end of Pg. December 8 (La Imaculada, Immaculate
de Colom, in the Barri Gtic (MonSat Conception); December 25 (Nadal,
8.30am9.30pm, Sun 8.30am2.30pm; Christmas Day); December 26 (Sant
t 902 197 197, w www.correos.es; Esteve, St Stephens Day).
mBarceloneta/Jaume I). Theres a poste TAXES Local sales tax, IVA, is seven per-
restante/general delivery service here (llista cent in hotels and restaurants, and sixteen
de correus), plus express post, fax service percent in shops. Quoted prices should
and phone-card sales. Each city neighbour- always make it clear whether or not tax is
hood also has a post office, though these included (it usually is).
have far less comprehensive opening hours TELEPHONES Public telephones accept
and services. For stamps its much easier coins, credit cards and phone cards (the lat-
to visit a tobacconist (look for the brown- ter available in various denominations in
and-yellow tabac sign), found on virtually tobacconists, newsagents and post offices).
every street. Use the yellow on-street post- The cheapest way to make an international
boxes and put your mail in the flap marked call is to go to a locutorio (phone centre),
Contents Essentials
194
scattered through the old city, particularly in week in March, back again in the last week
the Raval and Ribera. Youll be assigned a of October).
cabin to make your calls, and afterwards TIPPING Locals leave only a few cents or
you pay in cash. round up the change for a coffee or drink,
TICKETS You can buy concert, sporting and and a euro or two for most meals. Anything
exhibition tickets with a credit card using beyond is considered excessive, though
the ServiCaixa (t 902 332 211, fancy restaurants may specifically indicate
w www.servicaixa.com), automatic dispens- that service is not included, in which case
ing machines in branches of La Caixa sav- you will be expected to leave ten to fifteen
ESSENTIALS
ings bank. Its also possible to order tickets percent. Taxi drivers usually get around five
by phone or online through ServiCaixa or percent, while hotel porters and toilet atten-
TelEntrada (t 902 101 212, w www.telen- dants should be tipped a euro or two.
trada.com). In addition, theres a concert TRAVEL AGENCIES General travel agen-
ticket desk in the FNAC store, El Triangle, cies are found on the Gran Va de les Corts
Plaa Catalunya (mCatalunya), while for Catalanes, Pg. de Grcia, Va Laietana and
advance tickets for all Ajuntament-spon- the Ramblas. For city tours and local trips,
Directory
sored concerts, visit the Palau de la contact Julia Tours, Ronda Universitat 5,
Virreina, Ramblas 99. Eixample, mUniversitat t 933 176 454 or
TIME Barcelona is one hour ahead of 933 176 209. For youth/student travel con-
Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), six hours tact Asatej, Ramblas 140, 5th floor t 934
ahead of New York and Toronto, nine hours 126 338, or Abando, Ramblas 8894
ahead of Los Angeles, nine hours behind t 933 182 593. The American Express
Sydney and eleven hours behind Auckland. office, Pg. de Grcia 101, Eixample,
This applies except for brief periods during mDiagonal t 932 550 000, also has a
the changeovers to and from daylight saving travel agency.
(in Spain the clocks go forward in the last
Budget Barcelona
Heres how to keep costs to a minimum in Barcelona.
Eat your main meal of the day at lunchtime, when the men del dia offers fantas-
tic value.
Buy a public transport travel pass, which will save you around forty percent on
every ride.
Visit museums and galleries on the first Sunday of the month, when admission is
usually free.
Drink and eat inside cafs theres usually a surcharge for terrace service.
Take any student/youth/senior citizen cards youre entitled to carry, as they often
attract discounts on museum, gallery and attraction charges.
Take advantage of the discount nights at the cinema (Mon and sometimes Wed)
and theatre (Tues).
Go to the Ramblas, La Seu, Parc de la Ciutadella, Parc del Collserola, Port
Olmpic, city beaches, Olympic Stadium, Caixa Forum and Parc Gell all free.
Contents Essentials
Language
Contents Language
Contents Language
197
Catalan
In Barcelona, Catalan (Catal) has more or less taken
over from Castilian (Castellano) Spanish as the lan-
guage on street signs and maps. On paper it looks like
a cross between French and Spanish and is generally
easy to read if you know those two. Few visitors realize
LANGUAGE Pronunciation Words and phrases

how important Catalan is to those who speak it: never
commit the error of calling it a dialect! Despite the pre-
ponderance of the Catalan language, youll get by per-
fectly well in Spanish, as long as youre aware of the
use of Catalan in timetables, on menus, and so on.
However, youll generally get a good reception if you at
least try communicating in the local language.
Pronunciation
Dont be tempted to use the few rules of Spanish pronunciation you
may know in particular the soft Spanish Z and C dont apply, so
unlike in the rest of Spain the city is not Barthelona but Barcelona,
as in English.
A as in hat if stressed, as in alone when speakers it has two distinct L sounds.
unstressed. LL sounds like an English Y or LY, like the
E varies, but usually as in get. yuh sound in million.
I as in police. N as in English, though before F or V it
IG sounds like the tch in the English sometimes sounds like an M.
scratch; lleig (ugly) is pronounced NY corresponds to the Castilian .
yeah-tch. QU before E or I sounds like K, unless the
O a round full sound, when stressed, U has an umlaut, () in which case,
otherwise like a soft U sound. and before A or O, as in quit.
U somewhere between the U of put and R is rolled, but only at the start of a
rule. word; at the end its often silent.
sounds like an English S; plaa is T is pronounced as in English, though
pronounced plassa. sometimes it sounds like a D; as in
C followed by an E or I is soft; otherwise viatge or dotze.
hard. V at the start of a word sounds like B; in
G followed by E or I is like the zh in all other positions its a soft F sound.
Zhivago; otherwise hard. W is pronounced like a B/V.
H is always silent. X is like SH or CH in most words, though
J as in the French Jean. in some, like exit, it sounds like an X.
L.L is best pronounced (for foreigners) as Z is like the English Z in zoo.
a single L sound; but for Catalan
Words and phrases

Please, Thank you Si us plau, Grcies
Basics Hello, Goodbye Hola, Adu
Yes, No, OK Si, No, Val Good morning Bon dia
Contents Language
198
Good afternoon/night Bona tarde/nit Where does the De on surt el
See you later Fins desprs bus toleave autobs a?
Sorry Ho sento from?
Excuse me Perdoni Is this the train for Aquest tren va a
I (dont) understand (No) Ho entenc Barcelona? Barcelona?
Do you speak Parleu angls? Id like a (return) Voldria un bitlet
English? ticket to (danar i tornar) a
Where? When? On? Quan? What time does it A quina hora surt
What? How much? Qu? Quant? leave (arrive in)? (arriba a)?
LANGUAGE
Here, There Aqu, All/All

This, That Aix, All Numbers
Open, Closed Obert, Tancat
With, Without Amb, Sense 1 un(a)
Good, Bad Bo(na), Dolent(a) 2 dos (dues)
Big, Small Gran, Petit(a) 3 tres
4 quatre
Words and phrases
Cheap, Expensive Barat(a), Car(a)

I want Vull (pronounced 5 cinc
vwee) 6 sis
Id like Voldria 7 set
Do you know? Vosts saben? 8 vuit
I dont know No s 9 nou
There is (Is there?) Hi ha(?) 10 deu
Whats that? Qu s aix? 11 onze
Do you have? T? 12 dotze
Today, Tomorrow Avui, Dem 13 tretze
14 catorze
Accommodation 15 quinze
16 setze
Do you have a T alguna 17 disset
room? habitaci? 18 divuit
with two beds/ amb dos llits/llit 19 dinou
double bed per dues persones 20 vint
with shower/bath amb dutxa/bany 21 vint-i-un
Its for one person Per a una persona 30 trenta
(two people) (dues persones) 40 quaranta
For one night Per una nit (una 50 cinquanta
(one week) setmana) 60 seixanta
Its fine, how much Esta b, quant s? 70 setanta
is it? 80 vuitanta
Dont you have En t de ms bon 90 novanta
anything cheaper? preu? 100 cent
101 cent un
200 dos-cents (dues-centes)
Directions and transport 500 cinc-cents
1000 mil
How do I get to? Per anar a?
Left, Right, A la dreta, A Days of the week
Straight on lesquerra, Tot recte
Where is? On s? Monday dilluns
the bus station lestaci de Tuesday dimarts
autobuses Wednesday dimecres
the train station lestaci Thursday dijous
the nearest bank el banc ms a Friday divendres
prop Saturday dissabte
the post office loficina de Sunday diumenge
correus
the toilet la toaleta
Contents Language
199
Menu reader
Basic words Fish and seafood/Peix i marisc
To have breakfast Esmorzar Anchovies Anxoves/Seitons
To have lunch Dinar Baby squid Calamarsets
To have dinner Sopar Clams Closes
LANGUAGE
Knife Ganivet Crab Cranc
Fork Forquilla Cuttlefish Sipia
Spoon Cullera Hake Llu
Table Taula Lobster Llagosta
Bottle Ampolla Monkfish Rap
Glass Got Mussels Musclos
Menu reader
Menu Carta Octopus Pop
Soup Sopa Prawns Gambes
Salad Amanida Razor clams Navalles
Hors doeuvres Entremesos Salmon Salm
Omelette Truita Salt cod Bacall
Sandwich Entrep Sardines Sardines
Toast Torrades Sea bass Llobarro
Tapas Tapes Sole Llenguado
Butter Mantega Squid Calamars
Eggs Ous Swordfish Peix espasa
Bread Pa Tuna Tonyina
Olives Olives
Oil Oli Meat and poultry/Carn i aviram
Vinegar Vinagre
Salt Sal Charcuterie Embotits
Pepper Pebre Chicken Pollastre
Sugar Sucre Chorizo sausage Xorio
The bill El compte Cured ham Pernil serr
Im a vegetarian Sc vegetari/ Cured pork sausage Llonganissa
vegetariana Cutlets/chops Costelles
Duck nec
Cooking terms Ham Pernil dol
Lamb Xai/Be
Assorted Assortit Liver Fetge
Baked Al forn Loin of pork Llom
Char-grilled A la brasa Meatballs Mandonguilles
Fresh Fresc Pork Porc
Fried Fregit Rabbit Conill
Fried in batter A la romana Sausages Salsitxes
Garlic mayonnaise All i oli Snails Cargols
Grilled A la plantxa Steak Bistec
Pickled En escabetx
Roast Rostit Vegetables/Verdures i llegums
Sauce Salsa
Sauted Saltat Artichokes Carxofes
Scrambled Remenat Aubergine/eggplant Albergnia
Seasonal Del temps Broad/lima beans Faves
Smoked Fumat Chickpeas Cigrons
Spit-roasted A last Courgette/zucchini Carbass
Stewed Guisat Garlic All
Steamed Al vapor Haricot beans Mongetes
Stuffed Farcit Lentils Llenties
Contents Language
200
Mushrooms Xampinyons peppers/capsicums, tomatoes, onions
Onions Cebes and olives, a summer dish
Potatoes Patates Estofat de vedella Veal stew
Spinach Espinacs Faves a la Catalana Stewed broad
Tomatoes Tomquets beans, with bacon and botifarra, a
Wild mushrooms Bolets regional classic
Fideu Short, thin noodles (the width of
Fruit/Fruita vermicelli) served with seafood,
accompanied by all i olli
LANGUAGE
Apple Poma Fuet Catalan salami

Banana Pltan Llenties guisades Stewed lentils
Grapes Ram Mel i mat Curd cheese and honey, a
Melon Mel typical dessert
Orange Taronja Pa amb tomquet Bread (often grilled),
Pear Pera rubbed with tomato, garlic and olive oil
Strawberries Maduixes
Menu reader
Pollastre al cava Chicken with cava

(champagne) sauce
Desserts/Postres Pollastre amb gambes Chicken with
prawns
Cake Pasts
Postres de msic Cake of dried fruit and
Cheese Formatge
nuts
Fruit salad Macedonia
Salsa Romesco Spicy sauce (with
Crme caramel Flam
chillis, nuts, tomato and wine), often
Ice cream Gelat
served with grilled fish
Rice pudding Arrs amb llet
Samfaina Ratatouille-like stew (onions,
Tart Tarta
peppers/capsicum, aubergine/
Yoghurt Yogur
eggplant, tomato), served with salt
cod or chicken
Catalan specialities
Sarsuela Fish and shellfish stew
Amanida Catalana Salad served with Spia amb mandonguilles Cuttlefish
sliced meats (sometimes cheese) with meatballs
Arrs a banda Rice with seafood, the Suquet de peix Fish and potato
rice served separately casserole
Arrs a la marinera Paella: rice with Xat Mixed salad of olives, salt cod,
seafood and saffron preserved tuna, anchovies and onions
Arrs negre Black rice, cooked in
squid ink Drinks
Bacall a la llauna Salt cod baked with
Beer Cervesa
garlic, tomato and paprika
Wine Vi
Botifarra (amb mongetes) Grilled
Champagne Xampan/Cava
Catalan pork sausage (with stewed
Coffee Caf
haricot beans)
Espresso Caf sol
Calots Large char-grilled spring onions,
Large black coffee Caf Americ
eaten with romesco sauce (see
Large white coffee Caf amb llet
below), available February/March
Small white coffee Caf tallat
Canelons Cannelloni, baked pasta with
Decaf Descafeinat
ground meat and bchamel sauce
Tea Te
Conill all i oli Rabbit with garlic
Drinking chocolate Xocolata
mayonnaise
Crushed ice drink Granissat
Crema Catalana Crme caramel, with
Milk Llet
caramelized sugar topping
Tiger nut drink Orxata
Escalivada Grilled aubergine/eggplant,
Water Aigua
pepper/capsicum and onion
Mineral water Aigua mineral
Espinacs a la Catalana Spinach cooked
(sparkling) (amb gas)
with raisins and pine nuts
(still) (sense gas)
Esqueixada Salad of salt cod with
Contents Language
small print & Index
Contents Small Print and Index

202
A Rough Guide to Rough Guides
Barcelona DIRECTIONS is published by Rough Guides. The first Rough Guide to Greece, pub-
lished in 1982, was a student scheme that became a publishing phenomenon. The immediate
success of the book with numerous reprints and a Thomas Cook Prize shortlisting spawned
a series that rapidly covered dozens of destinations. Rough Guides had a ready market among
low-budget backpackers, but soon also acquired a much broader and older readership that rel-
ished Rough Guides wit and inquisitiveness as much as their enthusiastic, critical approach.
SMALL PRINT
Everyone wants value for money, but not at any price. Rough Guides soon began supplementing
the rougher information about hostels and low-budget listings with the kind of detail on restau-
rants and quality hotels that independent-minded visitors on any budget might expect, whether
on business in New York or trekking in Thailand. These days the guides offer recommendations
from shoestring to luxury and cover a large number of destinations around the globe, including
almost every country in the Americas and Europe, more than half of Africa, and most of Asia and
Australasia. Rough Guides now publish:
Travel guides to more than 200 worldwide destinations
Dictionary phrasebooks to 22 major languages
Maps printed on rip-proof and waterproof Polyart paper
Music guides running the gamut from Opera to Elvis
Reference books on topics as diverse as the Weather and Shakespeare
World Music CDs in association with World Music Network
Visit www.roughguides.com to see our latest publications.
Publishing information
This 1st edition published February 2005 by Rough Jules Brown 2004
Guides Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL. No part of this book may be reproduced in any
345 Hudson St, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10014, form without permission from the publisher except
USA. for the quotation of brief passages in reviews.
Distributed by the Penguin Group 208pp includes index
Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL A catalogue record for this book is available from
Penguin Group (USA), 375 Hudson St, NY 10014, the British Library.
USA
Penguin Group (Australia), 487 Maroondah ISBN 1-84353-395-2
Highway, PO Box 257, Ringwood, Victoria 3134,
Australia The publishers and authors have done their best to
Penguin Group (Canada), 10 Alcorn Avenue, ensure the accuracy and currency of all the infor-
Toronto, ON M4V 1E4, Canada mation in Barcelona DIRECTIONS; however, they
Penguin Group (NZ), 182190 Wairau Road, can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or
Auckland 10, New Zealand inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result
Typeset in Bembo and Helvetica to an original of information or advice contained in the guide.
design by Henry Iles. 1 3 5 7 9 8 6 4 2
Printed and bound in Italy by Graphicom.
Help us update
Weve gone to a lot of effort to ensure that for the best letters. Everyone who writes to
the first edition of Barcelona DIRECTIONS us and isn't already a subscriber will receive
is accurate and up-to-date. However, things a copy of our full-colour thrice-yearly
change places get discovered, opening newsletter. Please mark letters: Barcelona
hours are notoriously fickle, restaurants and DIRECTIONS Update and send to: Rough
rooms raise prices or lower standards. If you Guides, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, or
feel weve got it wrong or left something Rough Guides, 4th Floor, 345 Hudson St,
out, wed like to know, and if you can New York, NY 10014. Or send an email to
remember the address, the price, the phone mail@roughguides.com.
number, so much the better. Have your questions answered and tell
Well credit all contributions, and send a others about your trip at
copy of the next edition (or any other DIREC- www.roughguides.atinfopop.com.
TIONS guide or Rough Guide if you prefer)

203
Rough Guide credits
Text editor: Claire Saunders Proofreaders: Ken Bell, Diane Margolis, Nikky
Layout: Dan May Twyman
Photography: Ian Aitken Production: Julia Bovis
Cartography: Jasbir Sandhu Design: Henry Iles
Picture editor: Jj Luck Cover art direction: Louise Boulton
SMALL PRINT
The author
Jules Brown first visited Barcelona in 1985. Apart to and editor of many others. But hes beginning to
from this book he has also written half-a-dozen think hes left it too late to play for Huddersfield
other Rough Guides, and contributed as researcher Town.
Photo credits
All images Rough Guides except the following:
Front cover La Pedrera Robert Harding p.19 Festa de la Merc AA World Travel
Back cover Cable car Alamy Library/Alamy
pp.9 & 10 Sagrada Famlia Dorling Kindersley p.19 Human Pyramid Gregor Schmid/Corbis
p.14 Hotel Neri Hotel Neri p.19 Fira de Santa Llcia Heidi Grassleu/Dorling
p.15 Prestige Prestige Kindersley
p.15 Arts Barcelona Immanol Sisitiaga for p.33 Museum of Textiles Peter Aprahamian/
Absolute Visual Corbis
p.15 Grand Marina Jordi Llobet p.42 Gran Teatre del Liceu Alan Keohane/
p.15 Claris Mr. Martin Nocholas Kunz Dorling Kindersley
p.18 Dia de Sant Jordi Pat Behnke/Alamy p.95 Museum of Textiles Peter Aprahamian/
p.19 Human Audio Sponge performing at the Snar Corbis
festival Advanced Music

204
Index
Map entries are marked in colour
a Canig 151
Casa Quimet 151
Cervecera Jazz 116
cafs (by area)
Barri Gtic 68
Dreta de lEixample 130
Cervesera Artesana 132 Grcia 149
accommodation 175 Confitera 89 Port Olmpic and Poble Nou
accommodation, Danzatoria 163 119
Eixample 181 Dietrich 144 Ramblas, The 57
accommodation, Old Dry Martini 144
INDEX
Raval, El 86
Town 176 Espai Barroc 101 Ribera, La 97
Aeir de Montserrat 164 Fianna 101 Sagrada Famlia and Glries
Aerobs 187 Fira 44, 144 139
airport 187, 192 Fortuny 89 Sitges 170
Ajuntament de Barcelona 64 Gimlet 159 cafs 30
Aqurium, L 12, 75 Glaciar 71 Al Fresco, Sitges 170
Arc de Triomf 47, 102 Irish Winds 80 Aniga Casa Figueras 57
Kabara 89 Bar del Pi 68
architecture 24, 122
Kennedy Irish Sailing Club Bar Gaud 139
Arenes, Les 142 121 Caf de lOpera 30, 57
arrival 187 Les Gens Que Jaime 132 Caf del Born 97
Articket 188 Leticia 71 Caf del Sol 149
Auditori, L 43, 138 London Bar 90 Cava Universal 57
Avinguda Diagonal 137, 158 Luz de Gas 35, 80 Cerera 68
Mas i Mas 159 Chiringuito, Sitges 171
Merry Ant 90 Forn de Sant Jaume 31, 130
b Mirablau 45, 163

Mojito Bar 80
Mudanzas 101
Granja de Gav 86
Granja M. Viader 86
Kasparo 87
banks and exchange 192 Muebles Navarro 90 Laie Llibreria Caf 31, 130
Barcelona Card 188 Muy Buenas 90 Laie Martim 119
Oui Caf 144 Meson del Caf 31, 68
Barcelona Sants 187
Parrots Pub, Sitges 172 Mos 149
Barceloneta 77
Pipa Club 71 Rosal 44, 97
Barri Gtic 59 Punto BCN 144 Textil Caf 31, 97
Barri Gtic 60 Quilombo 144 Tio Che, El 41, 119
bars (by area) Rosa de Foc 101 Valor 130
Barri Gtic 71 Salambo 151 Venus Delicatessen 68
Camp Nou, Pedralbes and Santa Caf 145 Xaloc 68
Sarri-Sant Gervasi 158 So-da 72 Zurich 30, 57
Dreta de lEixample 132 Tinta Roja 116 Caixa Forum 38, 107
Esquerra de lEixample 144 Travel Bar 72, 190
Grcia 151
Camp Nou 26, 152
Tres Torres 159 Camp Nou, Pedralbes and
Montjuc 115 Universal 159
Port Olmpic and Poble Nou Sarri-Sant Gervasi 154
Vikingos, Sitges 172
121 Capella de lAntic Hospital 84
Vinya del Senyor 101
Port Vell and Barceloneta 80 Virreina Bar 151
Capella de Santa Agata 62
Ramblas, The 58 Voramar, Sitges 172 Carrer dAvinyo 66
Raval, El 89 beaches, Barcelona 27, 119 Carrer de la Merc 66
Ribera, La 100 beaches, Sitges 168 Carrer de la Riera Baixa 84
Sitges 172 Carrer de Petritxol 63
bicycle rental 192
Tibidabo and Parc del Carrer del Bonsuccs 83
Collserola 163
bicycle tours 190
boat tours 190 Carrer dels Tallers 81, 83
bars Casa Amatller 25, 124
Aire Sala Diana 144 budget Barcelona 194
bus station 187 Casa Batll 25, 125
Almirall 89 Casa Bruno Quadros 55
Ascensor 71 buses 189
Casa Calvet 122
Bar Ra 45, 89
Barcelona Rouge 115
Casa de les Punxes 128
Berimbau 100
Bosc de la Fades 45, 58
Caf Caf 121
c Casa Elizalde 128
Casa Lle Morera 124
Casa Macaya 137
Caf de les Delcies 89 cable car 16, 17, 78, 113, Casa Museu Gaud 148
Caf Royale 71 164 Casa Vicens 146

205
Cascada, Parc de la Ciutadella Col.lecci Thyssen- Finca Gell 156
102 Bornemisza 39, 157 Fira de Santa Llcia 19, 191
Castell de Montjuc 29, 113 Columbus, Christopher 73 flea market 21, 137
Catalan festivals 18, 191 consulates 192 Foment de les Arts
Catalan food and drink 40, Cremellera de Montserrat 17, Dcoratives (FAD) 82
199 164 Font Mgica 13, 106
Catalan history 28, 76 crime 192 Fossar de les Moreres 95
Catalan language 197 currency 193 Frank Gehry fish 46, 117
Catamaran Orsom 190 Fundaci Antoni Tpies 39,
cathedral (see Seu, La) 125
Cementiri de Poble Nou 118
Centre dArt Santa Mnica 55
Centre de Cultura
d Fundaci Francisco Godia 126
Fundaci Joan Mir 39, 112
Funicular de Montjuc 112
INDEX
Contempornia de dance 42 Funicular del Tibidabo 160
Barcelona (CCCB) 83 Dia de Sant Joan 191
Centre del Modernisme 125 Dia de Sant Jordi 18, 65, 191
Centre Municipal de Vela 117
childrens Barcelona 12
cinema 76, 192
Diagonal Mar 119
disabled travellers 192
discount cards 188
g
city transport 16, 189 Domnech i Montaner, Llus galleries 38
Ciutat del Teatre, La 111 122 Gaud, Antoni 122, 133
clubs (by area) Dreta de lEixample 122 gay and lesbian Barcelona
Barri Gtic 72 Dreta de lEixample 123 192
Camp Nou, Pedralbes and Glries 133
Sarri-Sant Gervasi 158 Golondrinas, Las 16, 190
Esquerra de lEixample 145
Grcia 151
e Grcia 146
Grcia 147
Gran Teatre del Liceu 42, 55
Montjuc 116
Eixample 122 Hivernacle, Parc de la
Port Olmpic and Poble Nou
121 emergencies 192 Ciutadella 104, 105
Raval, El 90 Encants, Els 137 holidays (see public holidays)
Ribera, La 101 Escola Industrial 140 Hospital de la Santa Creu 84
clubs Esglsia de Betlem 53 Hospital de la Santa Creu i de
Antilla Barcelona 145 Esglsia de la Merc 67 Sant Pau 25, 136
Arena Madre 145 Esglsia de Sant Pau del hospitals 193
Astin 101 Camp 28, 85 hostels (see youth hostels)
Bikini 159 Esglsia de Sant Pere de les hotels (by area)
Centre Artes Tradicionrius Puelles 92 Barri Gtic 178
151 Esglsia de Santa Mara del Eixample 181
Cova del Drac-Jazzroom 159 Mar 29, 95 Port Olmpic 181
Discothque 116 Esglsia de Santa Mara del Pi Port Vell 179
Dostrece 90 63 Ramblas, Las 175
Fonfone 72 Raval, El 179
Esglsia dels Sants Just i
Harlem Jazz Club 72 Ribera, La, and Sant Pere 180
Pastor 65
Jamboree 72 hotels 175
Jazz S Club 90 Espai de Dansa i Msica, L
Adagio 178
Karma 72 141 Arts Barcelona 15, 117, 181
La Boite 145 Esquerra de lEixample 140 Australia 179
Llantiol 90 Esquerra de lEixample 141 Aviny 178
Luz de Gas 145 Estaci de Frana 187 Balmes 181
Macarena 72 Estaci del Nord 187 Banys Orientals 180
Metro 145 Estadi Olmpic 27, 111 Benidorm 175
Mond Club 132 Cntric 179
Moog 90 Claris 15, 181
Otto Zutz 151
Oven 121
Paloma, La 90
f Coln 178
Condes de Barcelona 182
DUxelles 182
Razzmatazz 121 Duques de Bergara 179
FC Barcelona 152
Sala Apolo/Nitsa Club 116 Fernando 178
Festa de la Merc 19, 191
Sidecar 43, 72 Gat Raval 180
Suborn 101 Festa Major de Grcia 19,
Ginebra 182
Tablao de Carmen 116 191 Girona 182
Tarantos 43, 72 Festival de Jazz 191 Goya 182
Terrazza 116 Festival del Grec 18, 191 Grand Marina 15, 179
The Loft 121 festivals 18, 191 Granva 182
Torres de vila 116 Filmoteca 141

206
Grau 180 Mansana de la Discrdia 123 Museu del Perfum 124
Gravina 180 Maremgnum 47, 75 Museu Egipci de Barcelona
Hesperia Metropol 178 Marina 77 126
Jard 178 markets 20 Museu Etnolgic 110
Levante 178 artists market 63 Museu Frederic Mars 33, 63
Lloret 178 books and coins 86 Museu i Centre dEstudis de
Majestic 182 coins and stamps 66 lEsport 140
Mare Nostrum 178 Els Encants 21, 137
Mari-Luz 178
Museu Maricel, Sitges 170
farmers market 63 Museu Martim 29, 74
Meson Castilla 180 Mercat de la Barceloneta 77
Neri 14, 179 Museu Nacional dArt de
Mercat de la Boqueria 20, 54
Nouvel 179 Catalunya (MNAC) 11, 109
Mercat de la Concepci 128
Nuevo Coln 180 Mercat de la Llibertat 146
Museu Picasso 10, 93
Oliva 182 Mercat de Sant Antoni 21, 85 Museu Romntic, Sitges 170
INDEX
Omm 182 Mercat Municipal, Sitges 170 Museu Textil i dIndumentaria

Oriente 178 Mercat Santa Caterina 93 33, 94
Paseo de Grcia 182 Matar de lEspectacle 191 music 42
Peninsular 180 men del dia 36
Pensi 2000 181
menu reader 199
Prestige 15, 183
Regente 183
Rembrandt 179
Mercat de la Barceloneta 77
Mercat de la Boqueria 20, 54
Mercat de la Concepci 128
n
Rialto 179
Ritz 183 Mercat de la Llibertat 146 newspapers and magazines
Rivoli Ramblas 178 Mercat de les Flors 111 193
Rondas 183 Mercat de Sant Antoni 21, 85
Sant Agust 180 Mercat Municipal, Sitges 170
Santa Anna 179
Terrassa 180
Windsor 183
Mercat Santa Caterina 93
metro system 189
Mirador de Coln 34, 73
p
Hotel Espaa 25, 84 Mir, Joan 112 Palau de la Generalitat 64
modernista architecture 24, Palau de la Msica Catalana
122 42, 91
i Monestir de Montserrat 165

Monestir de Pedralbes 29,
156
Palau de la Virreina 53, 188
Palau de Mar 77
Palau Gell 85
Ictineo 76 money 193 Palau Maricel, Sitges 170
IMAX Port Vell 76 Montjuc 106 Palau Moja 53
information 187 Montjuc 107 Palau Reial de Pedralbes 153
Institut del Teatre 111 Montserrat 164 Palau Robert 127, 188
Internet access 193 Montserrat 165 Parc Castell de lOroneta 157
Museu Taurino 138 Parc dAtraccions, Tibidabo
Museu Barbier-Mueller Art 13, 160
j Precolomb 95
Museu Cau Ferrat, Sitges 169
Museu dArqueolgia 110
Parc de lEspanya Industrial
141
Parc de la Barceloneta 78
Jard Botnic de Barcelona Museu dArt Contemporani de Parc de la Ciutadella 23, 102
23, 114 Barcelona (MACBA) 39, 81 Parc de la Ciutadella 103
Jardins de Mossen Costa i Museu dHistria de Catalunya Parc de la Creueta del Coll
Llobera 23, 113 33, 76 148
Museu dHistria e la Ciutat Parc del Clot 137
62 Parc del Collserola 22, 162
l Museu de Carrosses Fnebres

105
Museu de Cera 56
Parc Gell 11, 22, 147
Parc Joan Mir 23, 142
Parc Zoolgic 13, 104
language 197 Museu de Cermica 33, 153 parking 187
left luggage 193 Museu de Geologia 104 parks and gardens 22
Liceu (see Gran Teatre del Museu de la Cencia 162 Passeig de Grcia 122
Liceu) Museu de la Xocolata 32, 93 Passeig del Born 96
lost property 193 Museu de les Arts Decoratives Passeig Martim 27, 77
156 Pavell Mies van der Rohe
Museu de Montserrat 167 108
m Museu de Zoologa 103

Museu del Calat 64
Museu del Futbol 32, 153
Pedralbes 152
Pedrera, La 24, 126
pharmacies 193
mail 193 Picasso, Pablo 94

207
Piscines Bernat Picornell 111 Arco Iris 139 Pescadors, Els 121
Plaa dEspanya 106 Arrel del Born 97 Piazzenza 139
Plaa de Catalunya 47, 51 Atzavara, L 143 Pinta, Sitges 171
Plaa de la Boqueria 54 ba-ba-reeba 130 Pollo Rico 88
Plaa de la Virreina 147 Bar Celta Pulpera 69 Quimet i Quimet 45, 115
Plaa de les Glries Catalanes Bar Central La Boqueria 57 Roble 150
Bar Pinotxo 58 Salero 100
137
Bar Salvador 41, 98 Saln 70
Plaa de Sant Jaume 64 Bar Toms 158 Santa Mara 100
Plaa de Vincen Martorell Barrils 143 Seasmo 88
12, 83 Beach House, Sitges 171 Senyor Parallada 100
Plaa del Rei 28, 62 Bella Napoli 114 Set Portes 100
Plaa Francesc Maci 158 Berriketa 143 Shunka 70
Plaa George Orwell 66 Bestial 120 Silenus 37, 89
INDEX
Plaa Reial 66 Biblioteca 87 Taverna La Tomaquera 40,
Plaa Rius i Taulet 47, 147 Bodega la Plata 69 115
Plaza de Toros Monumental Bodegueta 130 Thai Gardens 132
138 Caf de lAcadmia 36, 69 Tivolis Bistro 115
Poble Espanyol 13, 108 Can Manel 78 Tragaluz 132
Poble Nou 117 Can Mao 79 Tramoia 132
Poble Sec 111 Can Margarit 115 Tres Tombs, Els 40, 89
Can Paixano 98 Veronica 71
police 193
Can Ramonet 79 Vinissim 71
Port Olmpic 35, 117 Can Ros 79 Xampanayet 100
Port Olmpic and Poble Nou Cangrejo Loco 120 Ribera, La 91
118 Casa Calvet 130 Ribera, La, and Sant Pere
Port Vell 34, 73 Casa de la Rioja 87 92
Port Vell and Barceloneta Casa Delfin 98 Ruta del Modernisme 188
74 Cata 181 143
post offices 193 Celler Vell, Sitges 171
public holidays 193 Ciudad Condal 130
Puig i Cadafalch, Josep 122 Comer 24 99
Cova Fumada 79
s
Cubanito 143
Sagrada Famlia 10, 133
r dZi 79
East 47 131
Economic, L 37, 99
Sagrada Famlia and Glries
134
Elisabets 87 Sagrat Cor, Tibidao 161
Rambla de Poble Nou 118 Escrib 120 Sala Pars 63
Rambla de Raval 84 Espai Sucre 99 Sal del Tinell 62
Ramblas, Las 11, 51, 54 Flash, Flash 149 Sant Pere 91
Ramblas, Las 52 Flauta 143 Santa Eullia 35, 74
Raval, El 81 Fragata, Sitges 171 sardana 62, 64
Raval, El 82 Fragua 88 Sarri 152, 157
reservation agencies 175 Fresc Co. 144 ServiCaixa 194
restaurants and tapas bars (by Gardua 58
Seu, La 11, 59
area) Ginger 69
Glop 37, 149
shopping 20
Barri Gtic 69
Gorra 139 shops (by area)
Camp Nou, Pedralbes and
Habibi 149 Barri Gtic 67
Sarri-Sant Gervasi 158
Illa de Grcia 149 Camp Nou, Pedralbes and
Irati 69 Sarri-Sant Gervasi 158
Esquerra de lEixample 143
Izarra, Sitges 171 Dreta de lEixample 128
Grcia 149
Jai-Ca 80 Esquerra de lEixample 142
Montjuc 114
Japons 131 Grcia 148
Port Olmpic and Poble Nou
Juicy Jones 69 Montjuc 114
120
Limbo 70 Ramblas, The 56
Port Vell and Barceloneta 78
Mamacaf 88 Raval, El 86
Ramblas, The 57
Mar de la Ribera 99 Ribera, La 96
Raval, El 87
Matsuri 70 Sagrada Famlia and Glries
Ribera, La 97
Miria 150 139
Sagrada Famlia and Glries
Mosquito 99 Sitges 170
139
Sitges 171 Muscleria 131 shops
Mussol 131 Altair 142
restaurants and tapas bars
Nou Candanchu 150 Antonio Mir 128
Agua 37, 120
ONabo de Lugo 131 Arca del Avia, L 67
Amaya 57
Octubre 150 Armand Basi 128
Aniga Casa Sol 78
Oolong 70 Art Escudellers 21, 67
nima 87

208
Atalanta Manufactura 96 Taller Antic, Sitges 170 train stations 187, 189
BD Ediciones de Diseo 128 Triangle, El 56 Tramvia Blau 17, 160
Bulevard Rosa 128 Urbana 143 transport (see city transport)
Camisera Pons 148 Vinon 20, 127 Trasbordador Aeri 16, 78
Camper 142 Vitra 97 travel agencies 194
Casa del Llibre 129 Zara 129 Tren Turstic de Montjuc 106
Casa Gispert 96 sightseeing boats 16, 190 Turisme de Barcelona 187
Centre Comercial Barcelona sightseeing tour buses 17,
Glries 139
Tur Parc 158
190
Cerera Mas 86 Sitges 168
Cerera Subir 67
Colmado Quilez 129
Contribucions 149
Corte Ingls, El 56
Sitges 169
Snar 19, 191
sports and recreation 26
u
INDEX
Cuca Fera 96 Umbracle, Parc de la

Custo Barcelona 96 Ciutadella 104
CyD, Sitges 170
Czar 97
Daaz 97
t Universitat de Barcelona 140
Discos Castell 86
Dom 129
Elephant Books 114
tapas bars (see restaurants
and tapas bars)
Tpies, Antoni 125
v
Espai Liceu 56 taxes 193
Formatgeria La Seu 67
Vinon 127
taxis 190
Forvm Ferlandina 86 Teatre Grec 18, 110
Futura 67
Gimnez & Zuazo 86
Gotham 67
Herboristeria del Rey 68
Teatre Lliure 111
Teatre Nacional de Catalunya
43, 138
w
Indio, El 86 Telefric de Montjuc 17, 113 walking in Montserrat 167
Janina 158 Tel-Entrada 194 walking in Parc del Collserola
Jean-Pierre Bua 142 telephones 193 163
Joaqun Berao 129 theatre 42, 111 walking tours 190
Kitsch 97 Tibibus 160 websites 188
LIlla 158 Tibidabo 160
Laie 129 Tibidabo and Parc del
Lailo 86
Llibreria Quera 68
Mandarina Duck 129
Collserola 161
ticket agencies 194
time zones 194
y
Mango 129 tipping 194
Manual Alpargatera 68 youth hostels 183
Tomb Bus shopping line 158 Albergue Verge de Montserrat
Mercadillo, El 68 Torre Agbar 137
Muxart 129 183
Torre de Collserola 46, 161 Barcelona Mar 184
Orgens 99.9% 97
Oscar, Sitges 170
Torre del Rei Mart 62 Center Ramblas 184
Pilma 143 Torre Mapfre 117 Gothic Point 184
Rafa Teja Atelier 97 tour buses 17, 190 Itaca 184
Ras 86 tourist offices 187 Kabul 184
Recicle Recicle 86 tours 190 Sea Point 184

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Palau OTERS Mercat
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CA
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C DEN
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REINA AMELIA
C DE COMTES
PLAA SANT
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C DEL BISPE
C DE SANT AGUST Museu Frederic

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del Pi PL. DE
DE ST. AG
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C DE Santa
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C DE LA
P
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CARRER
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CARRER DE FERRAN C DE JAUME I CARRER DE LA PRINCESA

FL
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EN
PLAA ST. MIQUEL SANT ST. JUST

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del Camp
TER
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LAS RA
S Museu Taller
O
C DEL VIDRE
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CARRER
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ER DE LE
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CARR Barbier-Mueller
C DE S C TE C BELLA F Cuixart
C DE
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IN
CARRER DE GUAROI
C DEL PA
PARALLEL ILA
RAMBLA CERVA BCN ES
Palau Dalmases
C DEL SOT S - T
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FUNICULAR CARRER NOU DE LA

C NOU DE
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CARRER DE LEST
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LANCA
PLAA OSQU PLAA

C DE
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M Gell GEORGE Sta. Mara COMMERCIAL

LAU
ESCUDELLERS ORWELL
del Mar PLACETA
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STER
RN
CAR
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AV
C DELS O
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COM DE MONT- PG. D EL
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RER
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C DATA IF
CARRER DEL REC

CADA
DE
STA
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S
L SANTA
VEL
DE
ES RIA
PTGE. DELS ESCUDELLER
DE LA RC DE
C V
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B AN TEATRE
ORRE
U MARIA NTA MA RIA
C D
C RTE
MA
C R EG
LOM
A
LES
DE C
C DE
ESPA
NOU SANT FRANCESC
A
C D EL C C DE
S FOSSAR DE
IDR
AD
C C L
CALD RER DE IA
AVIN
DO
ESPA
LES MORERES
ERAS
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C RIA
NN
C D EN RULL
N CA
LA FE
BAIX
DRA
OM
ES PL. DE
CAR SCATER
ERS
C DELS CDOL
EL
Centre dArt C.A J C AS

C DEN SE
ERS
Y
A
AGUILL
O
N
IR
RABA
C DELS LES OLLES

GIGNS
PA
Santa Monica C DEN

SSA
RA
SSA
AR
RRA
Museu A MP L
E T DE M
LL
NSOLA Llotja
NES
DRASSANES de Cera RER C DEL

CO
Estacio de Frana
CAR
EL
M
Sant Cugat, Sabadell & Terrassa
Vallvidrera Superior Can Cuis 11
Line 1 FGC Peu del Tibidabo Ciutat Meridiana
Line 2 Funicular (Tram) Funicular Montbau Torre Bar Valbona
Mundet
Line 3 Cable Car Plaa del Vall d'Hebron
Canyelles Casa de lAigua
Line 4 Interchange station Funicular
& Vilafranca
3 11 4
Line 5 FGC lau Valldaura
Trinitat Nova
Tramvia B
Line 11 Connection with RENFE
Tramvia Blau Reina Penitents Horta 5 Via Julia
Elisenda Trinitat
Av. del Vella
Sarri Tibidabo Vilapicina Liucmajor
Zona Vallcarca Torres i
El Putxet
Martorell, Montserrat
Univerisitria 3 Bages
Les Tres Torres Pdua Lesseps Virrei Amat Bar de
Cornell Centre Palau Viver Santa Coloma
Sant La Bonanova Pl. Maragall
5 Gavarra Ildefons Reial Molina
Maria Muntaner Sant Andreu 1 Fondo
Can Pubillia Alfons X
Cornell Vidalet Cases Cristina Fontana
Can Sant Gervasi Fabra I Puig
Boixeres Collblanc Les Corts Guinard
Grcia Joanic Congrs
Can Serra Florida Plaa del Hospital de
Almeda Badal Sant Pau
Torrassa Centre Hospital Sagrera
Plaa de
Rambla Just Oliveras Av Sants Entena Clnic Diagonal Verdaguer
Carrilet Camp de Artigues
l'Arpa Navas Verneda Sant Adria
L'Hospitalet Santa Mercat Sants Estaci Provena Sagrada Bac de Roda
St Josep Eulila Nou Girona Familia
Bellvitge Tarragona Encants 4 La Pau
Hospital Universitat Clot
Sitges
Gornal Hostafrancs Rocafort Monumental St. Mart Pep

de Bellvitge 1 Tetuan
El Prat de Ventura
Llobregat Ildefons Espanya Urgell Passeig de Bess 2
Cerd Grcia Arc de Triomf Glries Sant Roc Gorg
Poble Sant Catalunya
Sec Antoni Urquinaona
Marina Poblenou Bess Mar N
Parc de Liceu
Montjuc Bogatell Llacuna Selva de El Maresme
2 Jaume I Mar Forum
Paral.lel
Airport
Castell de Drassanes Ciutadella

Montjuc Vila Olmpica
Miramar Barceloneta
BARCELONA TRANSPORT
Sant Sebasti
Useful stuff Finding an address
C/Picasso 2, 4 means Picasso street, number two, fourth floor;
you might also see esquerra (left-hand apartment/office) or
dreta (right). The main abbreviations used are: Avgda. (for
Avinguda, avenue); c/ (Carrer, street); Pg. (Passeig, boulevard);
Bxda. (Baixada, alley); Ptge. (Pasatge, passage); and Pl. (Plaa,
square).
Quick Catalan glossary

Barri Suburb/quarter Museu Museum
Casa House Palau Mansion/palace
Correus Post office Parc Park
Esglsia Church Platja Beach
Jardins Gardens Rambla Boulevard
Mercat Market
City information
Turisme de Barcelona t 807 117 222
(or t 932 853 834 from abroad),
w www.barcelonaturisme.com.
The city tourist board.
Ajuntament de Barcelona
t 010, w www.bcn.es.
The city council.
Barcelona DIRECTIONS has all you
need to get the most out of the city: the
top places to stay, the sights not to
miss, the coolest barsin short,
the best the city has to offer.
Browse our ideas section and

youll know what you want to do,
24 hours a day. Flip to the
places section and explore
the city district by district, with
every sight, restaurant, bar and
shop located on our easy-to-use
maps.
Its like having a local friend plan

your trip.
ACCURATE
RELIABLE
DIRECTIONS
FREE e-BOOK CD OUR UNIQUE FREE CD CONTAINS THE FULL

TEXT OF THIS GUIDE, COMPLETE WITH 100s OF WEB LINKS. IT IS DESIGNED FOR
USE WITH PCs, MACS AND ALL PDAs INCLUDING PALM PILOTS AND POCKET PCs.
Check out our
rip-proof map
DIRECTIONS from ROUGH GUIDES
www.roughguides.com
AOL keyword: Rough Guides
USA $10.99 ISBN 1-84353-395-2
CAN $15.99
UK 6.99

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DIRECTIONS

ACCURATE RELIABLE INFORMATIVE

WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

NEW YORK LONDON DELHI

Tips for reading this e-book

To search for a word in the document, click on the Find tool

Some versions of e-book Readers, might allow you to bookmark,

Its tempting to say that theres nowhere quite like

capital, has a historical

This is seen most perfectly in the glorious modernista (Art

and specialist galleries all are just

Still on the cusp between edgi-

tecture including Gauds

Casa Batll, Eixample

Museu Nacional dArt de

and supermarkets, though

chic hotels to suit

Sightseeing tour buses

major ones like P.65 BARRI GTIC

Grcias Festa Major

where drummers, dragons

Fira de Santa Llcia

Festa Major de Grcia

Book and coin market

bourhood corner to P.147 GRCIA AND PARC

Jard Botnic de Barcelona

Hospital de la Santa Creu

and leisure facilities P.152 CAMP NOU, PEDRALBES

shipyards all testified to P.85 EL RAVAL

Plaa del Rei

Esglsia de Santa Mara

The engaging Maritime Museum is housed

Meson del Caf

Forn de Sant Jaume

Museu del Futbol

Fundaco Antoni Tpies

Museu dArt Contemporani

Fundaco Joan Mir

From the grill

Grilled sausage (botifarra)

artists often appear

advance concert, theatre P.55 ALONG THE RAMBLAS

and show tickets from

covers bars, venues and

Clocktower, Plaa Rius i

Along the Ramblas

PLACES Along the Ramblas

Plaa de Catalunya RAMBLAS FLOWER STALL

The huge square at the top of

del Pi PL S. JOSEP SEV

Miro Mosaic BOQU

Gran Teatre CAR

L M PLAA DEL DUC

PLACES Along the Ramblas

10am8.30pm), featuring locally noise and colour, as popular

Mercat de la Boqueria Plaa de la Boqueria

PLACES Along the Ramblas

here on the Ramblas, augmented w www.elcorteingles.es. The citys

PLACES Along the Ramblas

ANTIGA CASA FIGUERAS

served by blue-smocked staff Gardua

PLACES Barri Gtic

CAFS, TAPAS AND