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INTRODUCTION TO GARMENT INDUSTRY

Indias textiles and clothing industry is one of the mainstays of the national Economy. It is
also one of the largest contributing sectors of Indias exports worldwide. Part of the growth is
due to the growing development of the country, where more citizens have access to the
internet each day.

As the growth in ecommerce preference is so rapid, there is a high demand for apparel online,
which keeps the retailers stocking the shelves and offering new styles on a more than regular
basis, also prompting more sales.

CUTTING ROOM PROCESS

Garment production starts with the cutting room process. In this process, fabric is being cut
into components. In mass production multiple layers of fabrics are laid on a table and large
number of garments is cut at a time. The laid fabric stack is called as lay. The cutting process
includes number of sub-processes and flow of the processes. The process is:

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REQUIREMENTS OF CUTTING

Precision of cut- To ensure the cutting of fabric accurately according to the line drawn
of the marker plan.
Clean edge- By avoiding the fraying out of yarn from the fabric edge. Cutting edge
must be smooth clean. Knife must be sharp for smooth or clean edge.
Consistency in cutting- All the sizes of the cutting parts should be of same knife and
should be operated of the right angle of the fabric lay.

CLASSIFICATION OF CUTTING MACHINES IN APPAREL


INDUSTRY

There are mainly three methods of cutting are as follows:

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1. FULLY MANUAL:
o Hand operated scissor:
Hand shears are normally used when cutting only single or double plies. The lower
blade of the shears passes under the plies, but the subsequent distortion of the fabric is
only temporary and accurate cutting to the line can be achieved with practice.

Advantage of hand scissor

o Almost every type of cloth are cut by scissor.

Disadvantage of hand scissor

o It takes huge time for fabric cutting


o It is impossible to cut the fabric lay of any height

2. MANUALLY OPERATED POWER KNIFE:


Straight knife:
It is named straight knife cutting machine because its cutter is straight in shape. It is
also known as portable cutting knives because it can be moved through a spread. Used
for woven as well as knit fabrics.

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Machine parts:
1. Knife/Blade- Knife height is 10 cm to 33 cm. Knife stroke is 2.5 cm to 4.5 cm.
2. Sharpener- It is small band with Grinder/sharpening material on it and its main function is
to sharpen the blade.
3. Motor- Motor r.p.m. is 3000 to 4000 and its main function is to move the blade up and
down and also slightly in front direction to create a stroke on fabric. The Knife cuts the fabric
very fast due to high speed of motor which increases the risk of fabric damage.
4. Fabric presser- It is a device in the machine which holds the layers of the fabric tight to
make it easier for the cutter to cut the fabric.
5. Base plate- Wheels are under the base plate to move the machine smoothly as the weight of
the Machine is around 12-15 kg.
6. Moving handle- This handle is to hold the machine as well to move in predefined direction.
7. Transport handle- A handle to transfer the whole assembly from one place to another.

Advantage of straight knife


o The knife is comparatively cheap.
o Lay of higher height can be cut very easily (upto 300 mm).
o Fabric can be cut from any angle.

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Disadvantage of straight knife
o Sometimes deflecting may occur due to the weight of the motor.
o Chance of accident is high.
o Blade deflection occurs so quality may be hampered.

Round knife:
Features of Round Knife Cutting Machine:
o It contains a round but slightly octagonal type knife with sharp edge.
o The other main parts of this machine are base plate, electric motor, handle &
knife guard.
o Knife diameter varies from 6-20 cm.
o Manual grinder is used.
o Motor r.p.m. is 800-1600.It depends on machine.
o A handle for the cutter to direct the knife.
o Easy to handle & movement due to low weight.
o Knife is lubricating manually.
o Base plate gives support for fabric.
o Maximum 40% of the knife diameter can be used for fabric lay.

Advantages of round knife


o It is widely used to separate the big parts and blocks of fabric from small height fabric
lay.
Disadvantage of round knife
o Not suitable for cutting very curve lines in higher number of lays.
o Not suitable for higher production.

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o Difficult to cut small components.

Band knife:
Main Features:
o Fabric cannot be cut directly from lay.
o Block pieces of fabric required in bundles are cut in this machine.
o Blade moves vertically through a flat working table.
o Machine remains stationery and fabric is moveable.
o It comprises a series of three or more pulleys, which provide the continuous
rotating motion of the knife.
o An endless knife is used in this machine.
o The Knife is usually narrower than a straight knife.
o A large size of table is used to support the fabric and for cutting.
o Air blower blows the air to minimize the weight of fabric.
o Balls in air blower help to move the fabric in different direction.
o Automatic grinder is used.
o High speed motor is used.
o Life time of Knife depends on fabric type and uses of machine.

Advantages of Band Knife

o Used for precision cutting of small parts of garment.


o It has lower noise, less vibration and auto-sharpening device.

Disadvantages of Band Knife

o Not possible to cut fabric directly from lay.

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Die - cutting:
o Die cutting is a process where pressing the rigid blade onto the laid fabric. The die
is a sharp shape of the pattern border including notches by bending the strip to the
shape required and welding the joint.
o Suitable for garments having critical small parts and are very difficult to use
normal cutting or other cutting option. Most suitable to get accurate sharp corners
& circular patterns.
o Die cutting is mainly used for cutting embroidery applique, shoulder pads, cap,
shoe & backpack items to get high standard of accuracy. The only drawback is
that it is appropriate to situations where large quantities of same pattern are cut.

Advantage of die cutting


o It is suitable for precession cutting of small parts of a garment.
o Especially suitable for knitted fabric.
Disadvantage of die cutting
o Die cutting method needs block of fabric lay.
o More fabric wastage.
o Die manufacturing cost is high

Notcher:

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Features of Notcher Machine :
o A notcher is an upright, cylindrical device which cuts the side of a block to a
predetermined distance.
o Both straight notches and V notches are available.
o An alternative machine, the hot notcher, incorporates a heating element to scorch
the fibers adjacent to the notch in order to prevent fraying and disappearing. This
cannot be used for thermoplastic fibers and certain unlined garments.

Drill:

Features of Drill Machine:

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o The drill mounting includes a motor, a base plate with a hole to allow the drill to
pass through, and a spirit level to ensure that the base is horizontal and the drill is
vertical.
o On many fabrics the drill used is cold and the hole remains visible until the
sewing operator starts to use it.
o For tightly woven fabric the hole is permanent for a long time.
o On looser weave fabrics, where the hole may close up, a hot drill is used, which
will slightly scorch or fuse the edges of the hole to make it permanent for a long
time.
o A hypodermic (or dye spot) drill may also be used which leaves a small deposit of
paint on ply of fabric to find the mark place easily.
o All drill holes must eventually be concealed by the construction of the garments.

3. COMPUTERIZED METHODS OF FABRIC CUTTING:


Computer controlled knife cutting:
This method provides the most accurate possible cutting, at high speed:
o A typical computer system has a table with a cutting surface consisting of nylon
bristles which support the fabric lays but are flexible enough to permit penetration
and movement of the knife blade which is supported only on the top.

o The bristles also allow the passage of air through the table to create a vacuum,
reducing the height of the lay and holding it in place.
o It is ideal for placing notches in a lay and has a depth adjustment guide to stop you
notching too deeply. It has a depth capacity of 200mm and selectable temperatures
of 300, 400 or 500 degree Celsius.
o Fast cutting by computer controlled system.
o Suitable for very large-scale production.
o Speed of cutting can be controlled.
o Cutting defects are less than other methods of Cutting.

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o Less labour cost.
o It does not require marker paper.

Cutting by Laser beam:


o Laser cutting processing depends on its precise processing, faster, simple
operation, high degree of automation has been widely used in the leather and
textile garment industry.
o Laser cutting machine is not only with low price, low consume, moreover laser
processing doesn't have mechanical stress to the work piece, so the precision and
cutting speed of the cut products' result are very well.

o Cutting takes place by burning, melting and vaporization

Advantage
o Very high speed cutting
o Suitable for single ply cutting
Disadvantage
o Not suitable for cutting multi layer of fabric
o Not suitable for synthetic fabric
o Possibility of burning

Cutting by Water jet:


A water jet cutter, also known as a water jet, is a tool capable of slicing into metal or
other materials (such as granite) using a jet of water at high velocity and pressure, or a
mixture of water and an abrasive substance. The process is essentially the same as
water erosion found in nature but greatly accelerated and concentrated.

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Advantage

o Very fast cutting operation


o Not require to sharp the blade

Disadvantage

o Capital costs are high


o Water is to be filtered and de-ionized

Cutting by Plasma torch:


o Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature ionized gas
(argon)

Advantages
o Faster cutter of single plies
o High engineering and cost issues
Disadvantages
o Used for single ply only

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Cutting by Ultrasonic Machine:
o Cutting is done by ultrasonically driven knife blade
o 20k Hz vibration frequency produces 1/20 mm movement in the blade

Advantages

o Disposable knife blades save time


o Low vacuum needed

Disadvantages

o Single ply/low lays can be cut

OPERATION PROCESS FOR COMPUTERIZED KNIFE MACHINE

1. Set up the Machine


Inspect the work area is free from hazards as per the safety norm of the organization
functions
Obtain and check the data on the job card and carry out in line with the
responsibilities of the job role.
Calculate the number of components needed for production
Agree and review the agreed upon work targets with the supervisor

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Set up the machine

2. Operate the machine as per the requirement and Load the fabric for cutting
Ensure no defects on the material before going ahead for cutting.
Determine the mechanisms of the machine and make sure that the motors along
with the cutting knife functions well, before the actual bulk cutting takes place.
Meet company usage tolerances for efficient pattern interlocking.
Check with others when unsure of new product details.
Make sure when cutting the material. Avoid damaging self and others also. Avoid
damage to the knife and other equipments.

3. Put cut components off the table and bundle in groups


Identify the cut parts, count tickets and then group them well to pass on to
the next department
Ensure the bundled tickets have all the necessary information
Dispose of waste materials safely and return reusable materials
Report defects in the machine one does not have the authority to repair
Report risks/problems likely to affect services to the relevant person promptly and
accurately
Complete forms, records and other documentation.

CUTTING DEFECTS

Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members:-Attached to, or marked on,


wrong bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades.

Drill Marks:-Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or wrong side drill
used.

Opening Slits:-Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not cut through
entire bundle or omitted.

Improper Cutting:-Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts. Letting


knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes.

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Notches:-Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.

Oil Spots:-Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.

Improper Knife Sharpening:-Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on bundles.

MAINTENANCE OF CUTTING MACHINES

Handle materials, machinery, equipment and tools safely and correctly


Use correct lifting and handling procedures
Use materials to minimize waste
Maintain a clean and hazard free working area
Maintain tools and equipment properly
Carry out running maintenance within agreed schedules
Carryout maintenance and/or cleaning within one s responsibility
Report unsafe equipment and other dangerous occurrences
Ensure that the correct machine guards are in place
Work in a comfortable position with the correct posture
Use cleaning equipment and methods appropriate for the work to be carried out
Dispose of waste safely in the designated location
Store cleaning equipment safely after use
Carryout cleaning according to schedules and limits of responsibility.

FIRST CUTTING MACHINE:

EASTMAN CUTTING MACHINES

More than 125 years ago, Eastman introduced the first electric cloth-cutting machine,
which allowed the clothing industry to evolve from the manual drudgery of cutting to a
modern operation. Today, the company continues to deliver engineering-based solutions
that make real differences to facilities using new and high-tech materials as well as
traditional textiles.

In 1888, a Canadian inventor named George Eastman developed the first fractional
electric motor that could be mounted on a platform that would serve as a cutting base. The
motor was attached to a reciprocating knife mechanism and the first electric fabric-cutting
machine was born--The Eastman. The Eastman revolutionized the apparel industry with a
tool that ended tedious manual cutting-room labor. Eastmans current product line

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includes over 100 machines that are sold worldwide and are the standard by which all
cutting machines are judged.

GERBER GARMENT CUTTING TECHNOLOGY

H. Joseph Gerber later invents the worlds first automated cloth cutting machine, a machine
that revolutionizes the apparel industry worldwide.

MANUFACTURERS OF CUTTING MACHINES

Eastman Cutting machines


Bodor :Laser cutting machine manufacturer
Gerber Cutting machines
Lectra
Cera Engineering: Ultrasonic cutting machines
Kuris cutting machines

LATEST ADVANCEMENTS IN CUTTING TECHNOLOGY

GERBER CUTTER Z7

Precision.

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Knife IntelligencePlus features powerful new algorithms to predict, sense, and
correct knife deflection during the cutting process, ensuring superior accuracy
and quality of holes.
Intuitive touch screen interface provides ready access to setup and job
information, ensuring repeatability of accurately cut parts.
Enhanced knife guide design creates a more rigid and repeatable knife path,
maximizing knife positional accuracy.
Automatic knife sharpening feature assures a sharp knife for complete and
accurately cut parts.
Productivity
CutWorks ToolPath software automates the process of selecting an
intelligent cut path to maximize throughput and part quality.
The Quick Change Drill decreases time required for set-up and manual bit
changeouts. When a bit needs to be replaced, it takes seconds instead of
minutes and no tools are necessary.
Holes 14 mm and larger can be cut instead of drilled, which is 5-10% faster,
and bit changes are reduced or eliminated.
The knife cooler/cleaner reduces fusing between parts, extends the knifes
operating life, and keeps the cutting head components clean.
The conveyor is mounted on durable roller bearings to reduce friction, saving
energy during conveyance.
Performance.
Designed to operate with precision and without interruption at high speeds,
GERBERcutter Z7 is the high performance high-ply cutter for around-the-
clock production.

Gerber Technology : Paragon HX Cutter

Gerbers new Paragon HX cutting system features several enhancements for


improved user experience and increased throughput, including cutting head

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modifications for reduced noise and a new dual drill system for improved
speed and accuracy.
The HX will also be available in an HX-A configuration designed specifically
for the automotive industry, and as an HX-L designed for lingerie and other
delicate applications.
Productivity improvements to the systems Cut-Ticketing Process, which
connects data from the AccuMark system through the spreader and to the
cutter, will be demonstrated at the show.
Its 3D technology is fully integrated within the AccuMark 10 software, making it
easy to move from 2D to 3D.

TUKAcut : AUTOMATIC FABRIC CUTTING MACHINE

Tukatech's CNC Automatic Cutting Machines have the capability of cutting up to 8


cm. compressed under a vacuum. On board computer with high capacity hard disk
and monitor that can independently memorize the cutting graphics. It can be directly
connected to the CAD system network or the cut data/marker may be transferred via
USB. Tukatech's automatic fabric cutting machine saves both time and money.
Speed: Drastic reduction of production time
Quality: Precision and elimination of human errors in cutting
Advantages: Faster return on investment and increase in profits
Flexibility: Direct insertion of cutting data parameters through CAD systems in
standard DXF, ISO, AAMA, ASTM formats
Reliability: Qualified and dedicated technical after sales service and support

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