Definition

An unwanted horizontal bar in weft knitted fabrics.

Causes
Machine Related

groups of yarn mispositionned in the creel

improperly set negative or positive feed system
improperly acting striper elements
improperly set fabric take-down tension
slipping take-up
excessive speed
improper roll density

Needle Related

bent needles holding previous yarns on striper units

Solutions
Note whether the fabric uses coloured or only greige yarns
If the yarns are coloured

check the yarn set-out in the creel to see if the correct colours. are in the correct position
check the package tickets to see that the count, twist, type, blend,. supplier and/or merge etc. are correct

If the yarns are undyed

check the package tickets to see that the count, twist, type,. blend, supplier and/or merge, etc. are correct

Note whether the machine uses negative or positive feed

If the machine uses negative feed

check for yarn trapping under packages

check for package misalignments, incorrect balloon heights, differences. in yarn path and element damage
check for differences in yarn input tensions and yarn feeding rates
check for relative knock-over depths between feeders and/or relative. knock-over depths between cylinder
and dial
check for incorrect spreader widths, spreader tilt and incorrect and/or. inconsistent fabric take-down tensions

If the machine uses positive feed

check yarn input pre-tension levels for uniformity and pre-defined tension levels
check for lint in pre-positive feed disc and gate tensioners
check for individual and relative positive feed input speeds and post-unit yarn tension levels
check positive feed units for yarns not under the belts and/or not properly wrapped on the storage feed
drums
check for slipping, slick and worn positive feed driving belts
check for incorrect spreader widths, spreader tilt and incorrect and/or. inconsistent fabric take-down tensions
Definition
A horizontal defect in weft knitted fabrics appearing as light or dark
coursewise bands that can be continuous and/or intermittent.

Causes
Yarn Related

individual or grouped differences in yarn friction

optical differences between individual and/or small groups of
yarns due to differences in Spun and Filament.
poor knot quality
lint build-up yarns and/or tails
yarn contamination
detwisting of yarn tails
using rewound and non-rewound yarns on the same
machine

Machine Related

individual or groups of yarn mispositionned in the creel

improperly set negative or positive feed system
improper dial condition
improper cylinder condition
improperly set fabric take-down tension

Needle Related

small groups of new needles

small groups of mixed needles

Solutions
Locate the barr by running in coloured yarn tracers
If the barr is single course barr

check the respective feeder for yarn placement errors

check the respective feeder for yarn character errors
check the respective feeder for yarn package damage
check the respective feeder on negative feed machines for:
o yarn trapping, package crowding, package misalignment, incorrect balloon height, yarn path
correctness, feeder tube and other yarn path element damage
o yarn input tension, yarn input speed, cam damage, relative knock-over differences on cylinder and
dial
check the respective feeder on positive feed machines for:
o yarn input pre-tension level
o lint in pre-positive feed disc and gate tensioners
o individual yarns not under the positive feed tapes or not properly wrapped around the storage feed
drum
o slick, stretched and/or slipping tapes and/or driving belts

if the barr is multiple course or band barr

check the respective feeders for yarn placement errors

check the respective feeders for yarn character errors
check the respective feeders for yarn package damage
check the respective feeders on negative feed machines for:
o yarn trapping, package crowding, package misalignment, incorrect balloon heights, incorrect yarn
paths
o feeder tube and other yarn path related damages
o grouped yarn input tension and feed rate differences, grouped cam damage and/or differences in
knock-over between cylinder and dial
 o dial tilt and/or throw-out
o uneven dial and/or cylinder
o excessive spreader widths, tilted and/or loose spreader
o incorrect and/or inconsistent fabric take-down tensions
o check the respective feeders on positive feed machines for:

yarn input pre-tension levels for uniformity and level

lint in pre-positive feed disc and gate tensioners

grouped yarn input speeds and tension levels

groups of yarns not under the belts and/or not properly wrapped around grouped storage
feed drums

groups of yarn fed to the wrong positive feed unit

slipping, slick or loose positive feed units

grouped cam damage and/or differences in knock-over between cylinder and dial feeders

dial tilt and/or throw-out

uneven dial and/or cylinder

excessive spreader widths, tilted and/or loose spreader

incorrect and/or inconsistent fabric take-down tensions

Definition
A defect in weft knit fabrics consisting of lengthwise streaks which
appear parallel to the wales: such streaks can consist of individual
and/or multiple wales.

Causes
Machine Related

improper dial condition

improper cylinder condition

Needle Related

small groups of new needles

small groups of mixed needles
new needles
mixed individual needles
not using spacers or dummy needles or rotating needles
dirt or lint behind and/or under needles
incorrect hook size and shape for yarn count and/or type
worn, rough and/or scored needles
spread and/or rolled hooks
bent, worn and/or scored slots
bent needles, hooks and/or latches
chipped latches, hooks and/or cheeks
stiff or magnetized latches
latches trapped under hooks
scored or protruding rivets or dimples
bouncing or vibrating needles
bent, chipped and/or worn needle butts
bent, chipped and/or worn selectors and/or butts

Solutions
Determine whether the needle lines occur individually or in bands
if the needle line(s) occur on an individual wale basis, trace the needle line(s) to the appropriate defective
needle(s), examine and replace the needle(s) taking care to minimize the same problem in the future as noted in B,
C and D. Once this action has been done it should be noted that

a wale that is not formed at all is caused by either a closed hook or a missing butt
 a wale that exhibits an extended ripped appearance in the fabric and a pile up on the needle hook is caused
by a missing latch or a damaged butt
a wale that has a fuzzy appearance is caused by a rough or chipped needle; in addition, the needle has lint
on it in the machine
a wale that has periodic irregularities, such as drops or holes along its length, is caused by a bent latch or a
bent hook
a wide wale is caused by a bent or mixed needle
a narrow wale is caused by a mixed needle

Eliminate all possible sources of yarn related problems which can cause needle breakage

check to see that slub catchers are used in the creel

check to see that yarn package tails do not hang down in the creel and collect lint
check to see that a weavers knot is being used and tails are neatly clipped to 1/8th of a inch

Eliminate all possible mechanically related problems which can cause direct and/or indirect needle breakage
by making certain that mechanical adjustments do not cause the yarns to break or the cylinder and/or dial
tricks and verges to become damaged

Re-establish and maintain proper preventative maintenance and cleaning policies once damaged needles
have been replaced so that tricks do not build-up with lint, wax and/or oil

If a needle band occurs, trace the band to the appropriate defective, mixed (and/or new) needles taking care
to minimize the problem in the future by examining preventative maintenance policies (i.e., stop motion
reaction times and settings), cleaning policies and needle storage and replacement policies

Definition
A defect in weft knitted fabrics consisting of unwanted openings in the
fabric caused by yarn breakage during knitting; small holes are
normally called pin-holes.

Causes
Yarn Related

significant differences in yarn character

Machine Related

using a yarn count inappropriate for the machine gauge

using machines with too high a feeder density
knitting structures with an excessive number of tuck loops
improperly set negative or positive feed system
improper dial condition
improper cylinder condition
improper needle and/or sinker timing
using the incorrect type or size of sinker
improperly set needle gaiting
using a machine with too high a gauge
disconnected, tied back or slow stop motions
threading two yarns through one stop motion
improperly set fabric take-down tension

Needle Related

bent needles, hooks and/or latches

stiff needle latches
mixed needle sizes and/or shapes
worn, rough or scored needles
 scored or protruding rivets or dimples
spread or rolled needle hooks
bent and/or scored slots
chipped latches, hooks and/or cheeks
latches trapped in needle hooks
bouncing or vibrating needles

Solutions
Determine, by analysis, if the holes are caused by knot related yarn breakage or only yarn breakage

Note whether the holes are large or whether they are merely pinholes. If the holes are large, then yarn
breakage probably occurred prior to fabric formation whereas pinholes occur because of yarn breakage at or
slightly after fabric formation
For large holes

check to see that yarn count, friction, strength, uniformity and torque levels are adequate and consistent
check to see that knot or yarn joint quality is adequate and consistent
check to see that slubs and poor knots (and long tails) are removed prior to their reaching yarn carrier
eyelets
check to see that the machine is properly cleaned and kept clean
check to see that nothing blocks or restricts the yarn during knitting
check to see that all machine settings, yarn speeds, run-in ratios, yarn tension levels and machine speeds
are correct as noted on the fabric construction sheet

For pinholes

check to see that yarn count, friction, strength, elongation and torque levels are adequate and consistent
check to see that knot or yarn joint quality is adequate and consistent
check to see that the correct yarn count-machine gauge is correct and consistent
check to see that individual needles are causing the yarn to break because they are defective, mixed or not
under control
check to see that individual sinkers are causing the yarn to break because they are defective, mixed or not
under control
check to see that needle or sinker timing is correct
check to see that the fabric take-down tension is adequate and consistent
check to see that machine speed is not excessive

Definition
A defect in weft knitted fabric consisting of unbroken loops of yarn
which have unintentionally been dropped by the needles during
knitting because of yarn and/or course length variations.

Causes
Yarn Related

yarn variations encountered during knitting

Machine Related

using an incorrect yarn count for the machine gauge

improperly set negative feed system
improper dial condition
improper cylinder condition
improperly set fabric take-down tension
Needle Related

dirt or lint behind and/or under needles

incorrect hook size and shape for yarn count and/or type
new needles
worn needles
mixed needles
bent needles, hooks and/or latches
chipped latches, hooks and/or cheeks
rolled hooks
stiff or magnetized latches
worn, rough and/or scored needles
bent, worn and/or scored slots
bent, chipped and/or worn needles butts
bouncing or vibrating needles
bent, chipped and/or worn selectors and/or butts

Solutions
Note whether the dropped stiches occur randomly or along specific wales
If the dropped stiches occur along specific wales, identify and note whether the dropped stitches occur on the
cylinder and/or dial side of the fabric

check for worn, tight and/or slick tricks

check for verge and/or trick damage
check for a loose needles retaining spring
check for dirt and/or lint under and/or behind needles and/or sinkers
check for proper yarn count-needle hook shape and/or size suitability
check for needle "newness", wear and/or needle mixing
check for bent, rough and/or chipped needles, hooks, butts and/or latches
check for rolled hooks
check for stiff and/or magnetized latches

if the dropped stiches occur randomly

check the package tickets to see that the count, twist, type, blend, supplier and/or merge, etc. are correct.

Note whether the dropped stiches occur randomly or along specific wales
If the machine uses negative feed

check package stickers to see if there are differences in yarn character and/or count
check for yarn package damages and unwinding difficulties
check for yarn trapping, package crowding, package misalignments, incorrect balloon heights, yarn path
consistency, feeder tube, other yarn path element damage and wax, lint and/or oil build-ups
check for lint between tensioning discs
check for air turbulence difficulties
check yarn input rates and yarn tension levels and consistency
check for correctness of carrier settings and threading
check for camming damage and knock-over settings
check for dial tilt and dial height correctness
check for needle gaiting and/or dial backlash
check for take-down tension level and consistency
check for spreader levelness and width correctness
check machine speed

If the machine uses positive feeds:

check package stickers to see if there are differences in yarn character and/or count
check for yarn package damages and unwinding difficulties
 check for yarn input pre-tension levels and consistency
check for wax, lint and/or oil build-ups
check for overall yarn input speed correctness
check for yarns not under the influence of the positive feed unit or not properly wrapped around the storage
feed drums
check for slick, stretched and/or slipping tapes and/or driving belts
check for tilted, damaged, dirty, loose, binding or misaligned idler wheels
check for yarn input tension levels and consistency
check for air turbulence difficulties
check for camming damage and knock-over settings
check for dial tilt and dial height correctness
check for needle gaiting and/or backlash
check for take-down tension level and consistency
check for spreader levelness and width correctness
check machine speed

Definition
A defect in weft knitted fabric consisting of unwanted held loops
which can appear randomly in the fabric and/or within specific wales.

Causes
Yarn Related

yarn variations encountered during knitting

lint build-up

Machine Related

using an incorrect yarn count for the machine gauge

using machines with too high a feeder density
improperly set negative or positive feed system
improperly acting striper elements
improper dial condition
improper cylinder condition
improper needle or sinker timing
damaged or poorly set pattern selection device
oil accumulations
improperly set fabric take-down tension
excessive speed

Needle Related

new needles
mixed needles
incorrect hook size and shape for yarn count and/or type
spread or rolled needle hooks
dirt or ling behind and/or under needles (and sinkers)
worn, rough and/or scored needles (and/or sinkers)
bent needles, hooks and/or latches
bent, worn and/or scored slots
stiff or magnetized latches
scored rivets or dimples
bent, chipped and/or worn needle butts
bouncing or vibrating needles
bent, chipped and/or worn selectors and/or butts
Solutions
Note whether the trucking occurs randomly or along specific wales
If the tucking occurs along specific wales, identify and note whether the dropped stitches occur on the cylinder
and/or dial side of the fabric

check for worn, tight and/or slick tricks

check for verge and/or trick damage
check for a loose needle retaining spring (when applicable)
check for dirt and/or lint under or behind the needles
check for the proper yarn count-needle hook shape and/or size suitability
check for needle newness, wear and/or mixing
check for bent, rough and/or chipped needles, hooks, butts and/or latches
check for stiff and/or magnetized latches

If the tuck stiches occur randomly

check package stickers to see if there are differences in yarn character and/or count
check for yarn package damages and unwinding problems
check for yarn trapping, package crowding, package misalignments, incorrect balloon heights, yarn path
consistency, feeder tube and other yarn path damage and wax, lint and/or oil build-ups
check for lint between tensioning discs
check for air turbulence problems
check for input yarn tension consistency
check for input yarn speed settings
check for carrier setting errors and threading problems
check dial height suitability
check for camming damage
check for take-down tension level and consistency
check machine speed

Definition
Unwanted folds in a weft knitted fabric introduced by deformation of the yarn in the fabric and/or of the fabric structure
during knitting and/or subsequant processing.

Causes
Machine Related

knitting the fabric too loose

using an inappropriate spreader setting
using poor roll centering
using an inappropriate roll hardness or density
using an inappropriate nip roll pressure at the fabric edges
not using a tapered take-up shaft to facilitate doffing
enveloping rolls after doffing

Solutions
Note whether the creases occur at the sides only or in other areas of the fabric
if side creases only are noted on one or both ends

check for spreader width, levelness, stability and type of spreader suitability
check for roll centering
check for nip pressure at sides of cloth
check for proper spline roll usage
check to see if take-down rollers have been lagged

if other than only side creases are noted

 check for correctness of yarn input rates
check for correctness of yarn count
check for spreader width, levelness and stability
check roll density and density consistency
check nip pressure consistency across the full width
check roll start-up technique suitability after doffing
check to see that rolls are not enveloped after doffing

Definition
A fault in a weft knitted fabric consisting of an unwanted curvature in the courses in the fabric imposed during knitting
and/or subsequent processing.

Causes
Yarn Related

shade and/or colour differences highlight bowing

Machine Related

Forward Bow
o knitting the fabric too loose
o using excessive take-down tension in the center of the fabric
o using an excessive spreader width
o using a spreader which does not pull the fabric down evenly across the full fabric width
o using too low a roll hardness or density
o "arrowheading" rolls of fabric at roll start-up
Backward Bow
o knitting the fabric too loose
o using excessive take-down tension at both sides of the fabric
o using too narrow a spreader width
o using a spreader which does not pull the fabric down evenly across the full fabric width
o using too low a roll hardness or density
o "side-tucking" rolls of fabric at roll start-up
Compound Bow
o knitting the fabric too loose
o using a tilted and/or unstable spreader
o using eccentric take-down rollers
o using an uneven roll up technique at roll start-up
o using too low a roll hardness or density

Solutions
Note whether the fabric uses coloured or only greige yarns.
Note whether the fabric exhibits forward, backward or compound bowing

check respective yarn count(s) for faulty yarn placement by checking package stickers
check yarn input feed rates by means of a yarn speed meter or a yarn length counter
check spreader width and/or tilt and/or stability
check take-down for take-down tension level and consistency
check for the way in which the roll end is initially wound on to the roll pin
check for roll density by comparing take-down speed and wind-on rates