Day6

19thIgotupearlymorningat4.45amwashedmyfaceandgargledwithin5minutesIgotreadytookmycamera
buckledmywaistpouchandrushtowardthemarketandstoodnearthetaxistandfromwhereIwashavingaclear
viewoftheNeelkanth.Iwastakingphotographofsceneevery2to3minutesintervaltimefrom4.50amto5.25am
itwasgreatfeelingbecausetillnowIwasseeingandwatchingthephotographsshootedbyothersandfromtodayI
ownthephotographstakenbymyself.

Thisphotowastakenjustbefore2minutesSunshineonthePeak.
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 Thefirstlightburstoverthetopofpeak.
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Within4minutesthetopoftheNeelkanthshineslikeGold.
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Thiswas a spectacular view of the Neelkanth, let me remind you that seeing Neelkanth with very clear sky is the
rarest thing and I think I was lucky enough to watch the Neelkanth continues for last 24 hours and more. After
capturingthegoldenmomentIwasbacktothehoteltogetreadyforthetruepartofthejourneywaytoSatopanth
Tal.Asourguidewassupposetocomeandpickusat8.30amwewerehavinglittletimetogiveashortvisittothe
marketandhadourmorningmilkandbreakfastthere.
 Weusetohavehotmilkhereeverytime
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TodaywearesupposetomovedtoourSatopanthTalTreksowecamebackandgatheredourluggageandcheckout
thehotelwaitingforMannuRawattotakeus,thethingweregoinginperfectandintime,ourguidecame15minutes
beforeandwetooktaxitoreachManavillage,within10minuteswewerethere.

SatopanthTTRMap1,thisistheaerialmapshowingtheBadrinathtownarea,ManaVillage,andthe
wholetrekroutefromManavillagetoSatopanthTalandtheotherplacescomesinbetweenthe
trekkingroute.
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 SatopanthTTRMap2,inthismapitismentionedthetrekrouteinredlinethatwehadtravelledon
firstdayfromBadrinathToManaandtheplacewetooknighthaltatLakshmiVan
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ThisistheManastaxistand.
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 SouthsideofManawaycomingfromBadrinathandAlakhnandaflowingbeside.
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MainentranceoftheManavillage
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Aswerememberthisplaceduetoourlastvisit2yearsbackweplannedtotakeblessingfromthegodandthegood
spiritsinthevillagetemples.BythetimeMannuRawatgetsreadywiththeequipmentandarrangementalsomaking
adjustmentofourluggageweaskedMannuRawattomeetatBhimpool.
 Gettingreadywithequipmentsandpotters.
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WemovedtowardsfirstmandirofGhantakaranjiwebowandtookblessingatthedoorbecausethemandirwasclosed,

GhantakaranjiMandirinManaVillage
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ThisGhantakaran Mandir one can also see main temple premises of Badrinath Mandir to the right side of the main
gate,actuallyGhantakaranjiwasarakshashbuttheveryGreatSpiritandbecauseofthisspiritgodNarandNarayan
hadtotakebirthontheearth.

GaneshGufathiswastheplacewhereGaneshjiwroteBhagwatandPuran.
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 Thelocalopenshopsellingthewoolencapsandglovesaswellasmedicinal
herbsfordiabetesandforasthamaandbloodpressure.
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ThiswastheVyasGufafromwhereVyasjidictatedtheBhagwatandPurantoGaneshji.
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AtVyasGufawemetPanditjiwhowasalsokulpurohitofourguideMannuRawat,whenweaskforblessingandwell
wishesforuswhilewetrektoSatopanthTalandComebackhewassohappytohearandhehimselfpronouncedthat
youaregoingwithMannuandwesaidyes.PhotographsarenotallowedinthemandirbutafterourrequestPurohitji
silentlyallowsustotakeonephotooftheRishiVyasjisidolandwethankedandmovedfromthere.
 NearVyasGufathereisteashopcalledasBharatKiAkhriChaiKiDukan
andaboveonecanseetheroadwhichisstrictlyundermilitarycontrol.
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TheexcellentviewoftheSouthsideofManaVillagefromtheVyasGufa
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SaraswatirivermeetsAlakhnandariveratKeshavPrayag.
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 OvertheBhimpooldownthereiswaytoVasudhara.
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NearBhimPoolthereisoneSadhuwholivesoffclothsjustonlyhaving
langotandappliedashalloverthebody.
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 WecanseebothSaraswatiMandirandtheSnoutoftheSaraswatiRiver.
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ThisisSaraswatiMandirnearSaraswatiRiver.
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 DownbelowtheBhilShila.
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LeavingbehindtheBhimpool.
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Fromhereat10amwehadtostarttrekkingforourjourneyleavingbehindthehumancommunitywaytowardsno
manland.
 KeshavPrayagandoppositesideoftheManaVillage.
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overthewoodenbridgeatKeshavprayag
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 Alakhnandadescendingformupmountainandtoleftsideofthe
riveroverthetopofslopeisourtrekroute.
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we have to cross the wooden bridge at Keshav Prayag to begin our trekking towards Satopanth Tal still we were
lookingbehindbecauseourguideandpotterswerenotcamebutherethewaywashavingclearpaathfurthersowe
walkedbyourownabout15to20minutes.WereachedatMataMurtiMandirat10.40amthistemplebelongstothe
motherofGodNarandNarayanherewegottogetherwithourguideandpotters.MywifeperformedthepujaofMata
MurtiandalsopaidrespectbydoingTikatoourGuideMannuRawatandthreepottersPravin,Hansraj,andNarendra
thiswasbecauseshebelievesthisbringsgoodluckwhileonjourney.

MataMurtiMandir.
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 WewithMannuRawatandpottersNarendraandHansraj.
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Justbefore starting from here we met 4 trekkers who were returning from Satopanth Tal were also suppose to be
clientofMannuRawat.Thesepeoplehadcoveredthedistancewithin4days,wehadsomewordswiththemabout
therouteandtheclimateoverthereandsplitapart.

4trekkersreturningfromSatopanthTal.
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 TrekkingbegintowardsSatopanthTal.
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ThiswasrealtimefortrekkingleavingtheManaVillagebehindtheslopeandmovingtowardsremotearea,fromhere
wetwoourguideandourthreepottersareourowntotrekonmercyofnature.

Pottersarecarryingourluggage
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 Wecanseefarawaythevillageandonleftoppositesidewe
canalsoseethewaylineforVasudhara.
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RightbehindusthelineisseenitistherouteforVasudhara.
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 Vasudharafarawayshininglikebeamoflightandpaath
waywassupposetoberightwithslope.
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Atthisspotthepaathwasgettingnarrowaswellasslidingtowardsthesteepslopeonecanseeinphoto.Aswealso
seefarbrightshinybeamoflightlikethingisthemajestic300feetwaterfallcalledVasudhara,thiswasthefirstsight
of it as we walked through slope and the little part of the glacier which is seen is the Dhano glacier part which is
almostmelted.WhenthisDhanoglacierisinitfullformthetrekkerstakestheroutefromBhimpooltoVasudharaand
thetheycrosstheAlakhnandariverovertheDhanoglacierhereandreachChamtoli.Butinourcasetheglacierwas
melted and the remaining part was become weak so our guide decided to take route from the opposite side of the
Vasudhararoute,itisnotonlywepeoplebutfromnoweverytrekkerwouldhavetowalkthroughthisroute.
 TheremainingoftheDhanoglacierandabovethegreatVasudhara
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NowwecanseetheclearpictureoftheremainingoftheDhanoglaciergivingthewaytotheriverwhichissupposed
tobecoveredwiththicklayerofsnowturningintoglacierformoverthewholebarrenareathatisseeninthepicture.
ItissupposedtobesomewhereherethetrekkercrosstheAlakhnandaRiverovertheDhanoglacierwhentheytake
thetrekkingroutefromoppositesidethroughVasudharabetweenMayandmidJune.OnecanalsoseetheVasudhara
waterfalltopcorner.Thebottomleftweseetheroughpartissupposetobewalkedbyustoreachuppersideofthe
slope.Therewassome200metersstretchwhichwassupposetobeextremelyhardtocrossonecansaythatifone
misstokeepstepinrightwayandplacewillbewashedawaybyragingriverwhichisflowingabout100feetdown
below.Iwouldliketomentionherethatthistypeofsituationonlymakesusrealizethatabovegodandnaturethere
isnothingandwearealwaysonmercyofitandforcesustobowdowninfrontofit.
 Imaginetowalkovertheloosesandyrubblewithsteepslope
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Wesatforawhileaftercrossingtheterrain
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Herewhilecrossingthepartoftheriskyterrainwewereinpressurethinkingaboutallourpastandthefutureasour
feet was just sliding again and again towards down running river, it may be because we had never been to such
situationbefore.Itwasourguidedutytomakepasstheareasafelywithoutanyharmhedidmadewayforuswithice
axesothatwecanwalkeasilybutthenalsowewouldliketothanksformakingwayforusandguidinghowtokeep
thestepafterstep,believeitornoteverypeoplewhowalkdownthroughlikethisterrainmighthavesomefearsome
experiencebutnobodyexpressestheyjustforgetaftercomingoutofthesituationandpronounceverycoollikeitwas
hardbutwemadeit.Butinourcasewesincerelyagreethatwereallyexperiencethatsomeotherpowerwasdriving
usforthemoment,aswewerechantingourgurumantraandrememberingourKuldevChhotaBapaalltheway.Any
waywedidcrossthelooseandslipperypartoftrekwiththehelpofourguideandwesatforwhiletogetridwiththe
remembranceoftufftimestopasstherougharea.

Yetwehavetocompletelittlemoredistanceofthisparttillupthere.
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 Fromherewehavetoclimetheslope
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Thisplacewefoundplaneandopenground
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Stillwalkingthroughroughterrainforlittlemorethan10minuteswewerenowsuppose to clime the slope and to
reachChamtoli,ittooknearly2hourtoustobethere.HereonthewaynearbyChamtoliwesawcoupleofpeople
withtheirherdofsheepalongwiththeirdogsasthisareawaswithlushgreengrassitgoodgrazinggroundforthe
sheep. We reached at Chamtoli at 5.10 pm this place was having wide open ground having nice green view
everywhere and just opposite side we can see Vasudhara water fall, here we saw herd of sheep grazing grass we
stoppedhereforhalfanhourtookphotographsofthesceneandhadsomerefreshment.

OntheopengroundofChamtoliframinguswithVasudhara
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Herdofsheepanddog
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Asthe day was closing in we started our trekking further, generally trekker breaks here but we were scheduled to
reachatLakshmiVanaccordingtoourprogram.Tocoverthedistanceofapproximate1kmfromherewetook11/2
hourandwewererighthereatLakshmiVanandthetimewasalmost7pmourfirstnighthaltofthejourney.Bythe
timeourpottergetsetwiththetentandpreparethemselfforthekitchenwemovedtowardstheLakshmiVannear
small jungle of Bhojpatra trees to perform puja of Lakshmi Van and the Bhojpatra tree. It is said that this is
miraculousandveryholisticplaceasBhojpatratreeitselfisthesymboloftheLakshmiweprayedhereanddidartiof
thistree,herewealsotooksomepiecesoftheBhojpatraasaPrasadtocarryhomeandthiswedidasmentionedin
the Vedas first pray and then request the tree by saying that we are taking some part of yours as Prasad in the
presencesofthegoodspiritoverthere.Afterperformingthesmallpujawecametoourcamp where our tent were
ready,itwasdarkandnightwasclosinginsowegetintoourtentandhadsomerest,thenafteranhourthefoodwas
readyandwehadourdinner,asitwasfirsttimewestayednighthaltintentandinsleepingbaginremoteareaitwas
great experience. The day was very hard walking through unusual and unknown path with uncertain ground and
roughterrainweweretiredbutthenalsoitwasgreatfeelingafterreachingatLakshmiVanasplannedandthatwas
moreimportantforus.BeforeSleepingwedidourprayerandpaathfor40minutesandthenzippedintothesleeping
bagtosleep.

PerformingpujaatLakshmiVanofBhojpatraTree.
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Day7:
20thmorningwegotupat6.45amthedaywasperfectsunnyandcoolwithclearsky,astherewasnochanceof
taking bath out there in cold atmosphere we just wash our face and brushed and cleaned ourself with hot water
providedbyourguideandchangedourcloths.Thenwehadourbreakfast,Breadbutterjam,Khakhara,andbiscuits
withhotcoffee,nowitwasprayertimewewereverymuchgladtodoourprayerathereinthisholyplace. Let me
mention that as our camp was above the Lakshmi Van which is symbol of money and in front of Alkapuri which
belongstoLordKuberwhoisthekingofwealthandwearesittingrighthereongreatplaceprayingforhealthwealth
and prosperity for us, for our family and for our friends and this was more important for us. Draupadi the wife of
Pandavas was the first to leave her soul in their last journey way to heaven and it was this place at Lakshmi Van
chosenbyDraupaditoaboardhersoultoheaven.
 DoingourmorningprayerinfrontofAlkapuriandrightaboveLakshmiVan
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TheparallelviewfromaboveLakshmiVanandtheAlkapuriinfront
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SatopanthTTRMap3,theseconddaytrekkingroutethatwetravelledfromLakshmiVanto
ChakratirthaviaSahastradhara
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Beforeourpotterpackthethingsandgetreadywiththestuff,wedecidedtotakelastDarshanoftheLakshmiVan
whereweperformedpujalastevening.RightinthisphotowecanseeinmorninglightLakshmiVandownbelowand
theAlkapuriinfrontinoneline,itwasleftsideBhojpatratreebetweentworocksofLakshmiVanofwhichwehad
offerourprayeronpreviousdayevening.Fromherewecanseethesetreeslikebushesbutitisnotsothejungleis
stillfurtherdowntheslopewhichisabout125feettillAlakhnandaRiverandthefrontsideisAlkapuriwecanseethe
downcomingstreamwhichwatercomesfromBalakundGlacierfromrightabovethemountainpassage.Threeyear
back the Balakund glacier was fractured and busted, all of a sudden huge amount of water was poured in to the
AlakhnandaRiverfloodingallthelowerpartoftheLakshmiVananddownfurthertillBadrinathtown,thespreaded
marking of water flow shows the signature of the disaster. In this incident some part of Lakshmi Van was washed
awayanddestroyed.
 ItwasdownthereweperformedpujaofLakshmiVan
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AviewofourcampsitefromrightedgeofLakshmiVan
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Rightbehind me the place and the Bhojpatra tree of which we had done puja last evening, there is still down way
slopemorethan100feetcontinuingfromwhereIstoodinthisphoto,wecamebacktothecampsitewhereourguide
wasreadytomoveforseconddaytrekkingandwestartedfromhereat8.25am.Beforestartingwehadestimatethe
timethatitcouldtakeapproximately9hourstoreachourseconddaycampingsiteatChakratirthawewereableto
calculatethis based on the way we were trekking on previous day. Any way the early day time was cool clear and
shinywhenwestarted,thiswasgoodsignforusforfurthertrekkingitwasgreatviewinfrontsplittingtwowaysbya
mountain left way goes to the Satopanth Tal and Swargarohini mountain and other way goes to Chaukhamba
mountainsideandBhagirathiParvat.ThenwelookedbacktoLakshmiVanandthistoowasalsoexcellentviewfrom
halfanhourwalkingdistancewecanseeLakshmivananditsuppergroundanddownbelowAlakhnandaRiveraswell
asVasudharahiddenbehindthehazyclimateoverthere,itisnowonecanjudgethelandscapeofthe Lakshmi Van
howmuchwideandslippingdownwardstilltheriverbank.
 LakshmiVanAlakhnandaRiverandVasudharainoneframe
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Fromthis spot we were ought to start walking over the patch of boulders, as our guide was making way for us by
fixingthegapswhereitrequiresitwasnothardandwemanagedtogetpasstheareabytrekkingsafely.

MannuRawatmakingwayforustowalkeasily
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 ThemagnificentviewinfrontsplittingtwowaysbyChaukhambarange.
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RestingforwhileovertheGreenpatch.
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Fromhereweagainstartedclimbinggraduallyupwardwithrockyterrainwhichmakeslittleexhaustingsoevery20to
25metersweweretakingrestsoasourguidetakingcareofusandadvisinghowtowalkoversucharea.
 Walkingfewmetersandsittingforwhileaswegraduallymovingupward
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Waterfallofabout150feetdownbelowitisSkeletonice
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Withthis150feetwaterfallspotaftercoupleofhundredmeterswecansaythatSahastradharaareaissupposeto
begin,butstillwehavetomoveonclimbingforsometimetilltheridgetogetintotheSahastradharaarea.Aswe
reachedovertheridgewehadsomegreatviews,wesawclearviewofParvatiparvatandSatopanthparvat,northside
oftheNeelkanthparvatpeepingfromthecloudsjustaboveourheads,thefantasticviewofSwargarohiniparvatin
front and on right down below ridge there was the snout of the Alakhnanda River. There is nothing new in the
photographofAlakhnandasnoutitwasjustsameviewasother people had done before, here I request to the site
visitor to scroll down to the second last day of the trekking page one can see the over and the other side of the
AlakhnandariversviewwhichIamverymuchsurethatitistherarestscene.

NorthfaceofNeelkanthpeepingfromtheclouds
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FirstParvatiparvatandlastSatopanthparvat
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 AlakhnandaRiveremergefromhere
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SwargarohiniparvatandChaukhamba
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FarbehindmeisFloorofglaciercoveredwithbouldersandaboveitisSwargarohiniparvat
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Themuddyopenareaweseeisfullglacierareacoveredwiththebouldersandrubblesandtakenoticethatpickup
smallobjectofthepictureassumingitissmall pebble and here we go wrong under estimating the things and that
smallpebblelikethingisabigboulderwhichwefourpeopletogethercantbeabletomoveainchthatmuchbigitis.
HereIagainsaysuchthingsofnatureremindsusthatwearenothinginfrontofitandthisforcesustobowdown
and certainly we have to respect the nature. At some distance after walking through ups and down way we were
supposetowalkdownthroughtheplaintowardstheSahastradharaarea.
 OnmyrightsidethewallofSahastradhara
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Let me tell that these small streams falls from the wall of the mountain is water draining from the ice melted of
Neelkanth parvat and when rain falls over the area these streams get increase in numbers and begin to flow form
maximumcracksandpassagesofthemountainwallthusitiscalledasSahastradharameaningthousandstreams,it
isbelievedthattwooftheyoungerbrothersofPandavasinMahabharatnamedNakulandSahadevhadaboardedtheir
soulleavingtheirbodyrighthereatSahastradhara.

PerfectviewofSahastradharadrainingwaterofNeelkanththroughthemountainwall
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Wewerehereat12.45pmandproceededfurtherthroughtheplainofSahastradharaareawitheasywalkingground
wekeptonmoving,toclearthispatchittookalmost2hours.Wecontinuedfurthertoclimbandpassthelastridgeof
thedaytoreachourtodaysdestinationChakratirtha.
 MovingthroughtheSahastradharaareathroughitsplain
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Theareaissobiglikeaplaygroundthatwhenwemovesovertheterrainandseethroughthedistancewehuman
literallylookslikeantcrawlingoverthelandaswecanseeinabovepicture,mywifeiswavinghandandfarthereour
guideandpottermovingforward.

LeavingSahastradharatocrossthelastridgeofthedaybehindus
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ThisphotoIhadtakenwithtimertogetusbothtogetherinoneframeovertheSahastradharaplainandremember
thisplaceisthebasecampsiteforthepeoplewhoareclimbingtoNeelkanthparvat,thewaterstreamwhichiscoming
downfromtheleftlittlefarbehindusisthetrekkingroutetoNeelkanthparvat.Behindusourpotterismakingway
forusoverthestreamsbyplacingbigstonessothatwecancrossthestreameasily,likeweseeinnextframeour
guideisguidingmywifewheretokeepstepandmoveaswealsoseethatitwasnotbiggerspanbutthenalsoitwas
about over twelve feet which is probably little bigger for we to jump with one hop. Believe it the water running
throughthestreamswasverycoldasitwasdrainingallthewayfrommeltingicefromabovethemountaintop.

Movingfurthertoclimbthelastridgeinfront
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Behindviewafterclimbingmostoverridgeslope
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Theslopewasverygradualanditdidnttorturedusandaswecoveredmostoftheslopeandlookedbehindwesaw
thewholerouteofthedaywhichwehadtravelled,aswecanseeintheabovesnapcompletesequencerouteofridge
andpassageofSahastradharaandthewhitelinefarbelowthemountainweseeisAlkapuri.Thedistanceisjust11
kmsbutittookwholedaytocoveritbythetimewewereonthetopofridgeitwas5pmandstill20minuteswalk
moretoreachthecampsiteatChakratirtha,andrememberthiswehadestimatedbeforestartingourtrekkingofthe
day.Thiseveningherewhenwewereoughttoreachourcampsitethecloudsbegantogatheranditstarteddrizzling
butwewereluckytogetinourtentbeforeraintakesitcourseasthetentswerearrangedbyourpotterlittlebefore
wereachandaswegetintothetentswithinfewminutesstartedfallingrain.Itcontinuedandlastformorethan2
hours by the time it was ought to be dark, we had our dinner starting with hot soup and then Khichadi Aloopalak
papadpickle,thenwespendsaboutanhourbydoingourpaathbeforegoestobed.

Day8:
21stthisdayanddatebothwereveryspecialtousasonthisdate21stofJuneisthelongestdayoftheyear,and
today luckily it was our marriage anniversary. We got up at 6.30 am and looked out from the tent a nice shiny
morningasifSunrayswasknockingourdoorandwelcomingtousfornewday.Aswegotoutofthetenttherewas
theopengroundcalledChakratirtha,letmetellyouthatthisisalsooneoftheimportantplacewheregreatthings
werehappenedlikeitwasthisplacewhereArjunoneofthebrotherofthepandavashadmeditatedinotherwordsdid
hisTapasyaoflordShivatogetsuperweaponlikePashupastrafromShivaandbeforegettingitArjunhadbattledwith
lordShivaasShivaputArjuntotestbychanginghimselfintoonetribalandaskingArjuntofightandArjunaccepted
thechallengethinkingthathehimselfwasasupperwarriornoonecanbeathimthanwhatthisordinarytribalwould
dotohimandthiswasArjunsbigmistake.Heunderestimatedtheopponentandstartedbattlingwithhighground
andwhatArjunwasuncautiousandfellonthegroundlatterheregainhissensehesawthetribalwasstillstandingin
frontofhimreadytocontinuebattle,butArjunrealizedthatthetribalwasnotanordinarySoulsoherequestedhim
to revile his true Spirit and Shiva turn himself and gave Darshan and explaining him that in war one should never
underestimatetheopponentbyhisstatusorappearanceandalsogavePashupastraasuperweapontoArjun.Itwas
hereatChakratirthaArjunhadaboardhissoultoheavenwhileonthewaytojourneyofheaven.

ManypeoplehadvisitedthisplacebeforeusandIheardthatsomesaysthatwedidntseegod,Ithink
thatweverymuchunderestimatethegodandstartsoverjudgingcertifyingbyourselfvisitingsuchholy
placessayingthatplacewasnicebutwedidntsawgodanywhereonthisholyland.ThereasonIthink
forthisiswepeoplearesupposetobeamaterialpeoplesoweneedthethingstobeseenwithourown
eyesorthingscouldbegrabbedwithinourlimittobelieveit,Ithinkthisisnotthewaytosee god but
god is great we always pronounce its true because we dont know him but he very well know we
material people so he always shows his presence by fulfilling our demands and request providing us
when we need it. Remember every time material is not important by any reason sometime when
unknowinglyjeopardizeourselfinsomecriticalsituationandwestartthinkingthereisnowayoutand
suddenlyoursoulcriesandbegswithfoldinghandssayingOhGodhelpmeandmiraclehappenstocome
outofthebadsituationbydoingeffortsguidedbytheinvisiblepowerandthatinvisiblepowerisGodand
thisisthewaygodstaysaboveuscreatingfaithandgoesonbondingbetweenspiritandsoul.Remember
onecancountthevalueofthegodandspiritsonlywhenapersonismovingalmostalonewherenobody
knows him or her, the situation is totally different when we walk in group where we have support of
eachotherhopingbestandgettinghelpindetoriotsituation.HereIthinkgodsaywhenyouhavemany
facilitytolookoutyourselfwiththingsandothersthenwhyshouldIlookafteryousoenjoythejourney
withallyoursurroundinginsteadofmegettingme.
 EarlymorningviewofChakratirthafromourtent
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LasteveningwhenwereachedatChakratirthawewerehavingonemoregroupcampingatsomedistanceandthey
werebacktowardsManaonecanseeintheaboveframeatleftsidewithsingletent.Sincelasteveningtherewasrain
andcloudyatmospheretherewasnochancethatwecouldtakeanyphotographsbuttherewasnothingmissingand
we had great time this morning. There was one den which was used as the resting place for our potters and for
kitchenpurpose,thisplacewasveryniceandnaturegodwasallowingustospendgoodtimehere.

Wewereworkingcoolsincewegotupat6.30am,firstwegotfreshandthenwehaddoneourmorningpujaand
paathafterthatwehadourbreakfastitwasnicetositonrockwithopenskywithbrightsunlightinmorning.Today
wehadAlooparathapickleandcoffeeanditwasgreathereIwouldliketomentionaboutourguideMannuRawats
hospitalityitwasgreatandbeyondimaginablethewayheserveusthefoodandtakingcareaboutourrequirement
wasbrilliant there was no room for complain. Then we went to meet the group exchanged some words about the
holisticplacetookcoupleofphotographsandcamebacktoourcampsite.

Denwhichissupposedtobeourkitchensite
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Morningbreakfastsittingonrock
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WemetothergroupatChakratirtha
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Theamazingrocksplittingapartandstillatoneplace
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JustbeforeleavingChakratirtha
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SatopanthTTRMap4,thethirddaytrekkingroutefromChakratirthatoSatopanthTal
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Nowitwasalmost9ambythetimewegotreadyandoughttomovetowardsourfinaldestinationSatopanthTalasI
wouldliketoconfirmtheroutefromhereisonecanseein3665photographandthatisrightbehindusstraightuptill
thetopoftheridgeandfurtherdown.Sinceitwasnowremainingabout5kmsdistancesoasusualweestimated
thatwecouldreachby2pmatSatopanthTal.Aswewerehavingplentyoftimetodayandhalfthedistancetocover
comparetolasttwodaywestartedlittlelateandwalkedcoolly,atsomedistancewefoundbutterflyandotherinsectit
wascertainlywherethereislittlevegetationwealwaysfindinsectsandothercreaturelikebirdsandrats.HereIsaw
somebutterflyonebeautifulinsectwithshinydarkcolortonewhichwascrawlingonthegrassIpickeditupontomy
handandtriedtotakephotoandasIfocusedtheinsectrightonmypalmonebutterflycameandsatonmyfinger
andexcellentshotIgotwhichwasabsolutenatural.

Rarestnaturalshot
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Behindusthesteepslopeontoprightonmyheadlineisthespot
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Thedistanceleftbehindusasweseeinabovephototoreachtilltheridgeseemsnotveryfarbutfactisittookusto
coverthedistancetilltopalmost11/2hour.FromthisspotifwelookbackweseeChakratirthadownbelowsomething
likethis.
 Chakratirthafromlittlehigherground
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ReachingatthetopofRidge
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 TheothersideoftheRidge
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Creepycrawlywereachedattopoftheridgeandittook21/4hour,aswereachedandlookedatothersidewewere
stunnedlookingabsoluteroughandboulderzoneandwewerealsoamazedbylookingsomuchdifferencebetween
bothsideoflandscapeofsamehillonesidesmoothandgrassyandothersideabsoluteroughterrain,oneshouldnt
forgetthatthisisthebeautyofthemountainwhichiscarvedbynature.Isaythatthiswaynaturegivesusgreat
opportunityandallowustoexperiencetobewithit.AsothersideoftheridgewasroughsoourguideMannuRawat
onceagaintookhisiceaxeandstartedscratchingtheslopetomakewayforusonecanseeinthephoto.

TheboulderzoneandfarinfrontisSwargkiseedi
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Lookingfromthetopoftheridgeasinthephotowecanseetheboulderzonewhichwehavetocrossanditisallthe
waytillbehindofthefrontridge,outfrontwecanseetheSwargkiseediwithSwargarohiniandChaukhamba.
 TheridgewepassedandattopNeelkanthparvat
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Seeingthebacktheroughterrainoverboulderzonetheridgewehadcrossedandfromherewecanalsoseethewest
sideoftheNeelkanthparvatitwasgreatview.Stillwehavetocontinuewithsamesurfaceofgroundwehavetocross
onemoreridgetoreachourfinaldestinationwhichisinfrontofusaswecanseeinthephoto.

LastRidgetocrossinFront
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 FirstglimpseoftheSatopanthTal
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Yes we were there at Satopanth Tal it was awesome and great view of magnificent triangular holy lake called
SatopanthTal.WejustbowdowntotheSatopanthTalandprayedtogodandgoodspiritsandthankstobringushere
safely. The scene was so nice that we stood there for some minutes from where we got the clear view of the
SatopanthTal,thenwegotdowntillthedwellingwhichwecanseedownbelowandbehindthattherewasourtent.
 Descendingdowntowardsthetentbehindtheconcretedwelling
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BestplaceforcamptoputthetentrightovertheSatopanthTal
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Hereweweresupposetoperformsmallpujaceremonyandwetookthethingsforpujaandofferingswhichwehad
carriedfromourhomewithin20minuteswecamedowntothebankofSatopanthTalandsatthereandperformed
pujaofferedourrequestletterwroteoverSilversheetandoverBhojpatrawhichwehadcollectedfromtheLakshmi
Vanandletterwrittenoverplanepieceofpaperalltiedwithinonebundle.ThenwedidartioftheholySatopanthTal
inthenameofBrahma,VishnuandMahesh,bythetimewecompleteourpujaitstarteddrizzlinganditseemstobe
rainwithinfewminutestimeandwesetbacktothecampsiteandgetintothetenthadsomerest.

SittingrightbesidetheSatopanthTalandofferingpray
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WeareprayingTrinityGodforourgoodhealthwealthandprosperity
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The rain continued for 2 hours and then again Sun begin to shine over the area on top of Swargarohini and
Chaukhamba, we came out of the tent and had nice time watching the beauty of the Satopanth Tal, Satopanth
Parvat,Swargarohini,Chaukhamba,BalakundandateasttoourtentNeelkanthparvatwasplayinghideandseekin
thecloud.AtoneglanceifweseeattheSatopanthTalitlookslikeabigEmeraldstonekeptintheverybigbowllike
jewel,andwheneveningSunraysfallonitandreflectbackisreallyexcellentsightheretooeventhebestexpression
wordswerefallshortandlittle.

SatopanthTalisshininglikejewelineveningSunlight
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Whileenjoyingthebeautyofnatureabout5pmagroupofeightpeoplearrivehereinthisgrouptherewasone14
yearoldboyandweweresurprisedtoseehimitwasgreatandgooddaringoftheboytotrektillherewithallbigmen.
Wecapturesomememoriesandhadsomereligiouswordsexchangingtheknowledgeandexperienceofroute,asthey
were travelling with limited sources of food and absolute without any protecting gears. It was just something like
daring playing with the life because in this open ground at above 14000 ft the climate can turn violent without
warningandanythingworstcanhappen.Buttheywereluckyenoughtogetcompletethejourneyasfasttheycame
toSatopanthTalwithsamerhythmtheywentback.
 Onemoregroupofpeoplewemethere
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Seeingthisconditionofthosepeoplewefeltpityandshowedsomesympathybyofferingthemsomehotsoupandwe
asktoourguidetomakearrangementforthem,nodoubtMannuRawatdidarrangedandservedthembutthenhe
wasupsetandlittleangry.HesaidsirwhytoprovidetothemlikethisevenIcouldalsodosowithoutaskingyouashe
hadcarriedenoughrationwithhimforwepeoplethatitcouldlaststillmoreoneweek.LatterIcametoknowwhy
MannuRawatsaidthisandthereasonwasifsomethinghappenstothemwhowouldtakeresponsibilityofit,butit
wasthatkidinthegroupthatdroveustosympathy

Thevisitorhavinghotsoupofferedbyus
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 Mywifeispreparingdinnerinlamplight
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Nicehomelytasteoffoodsittingwithnewfriends
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Day9:
22ndonthisdaywegotupveryearlymorningat3.45amstillitwasdarkoutthereandwehadplannedtogodown
nearSatopanthTalandsitbesideitchantingthegurumantraandpronounceourpujaforthiswehadtowake up
MannuRawattohelpusandtakedownthereandmakearrangementforsittingovertherockysurfaceasitwasstill
darkMannuRawattookhistorchandmattressforustosit.Aftermakingsittingarrangementhewentbacktothe
dwelling.ThisweweredoingastodayitwasEkadashiandonthisdayallthreegodBrahma,Vishnu,Maheshsuppose
tocometohavebathhereintheSatopanthTalinBrahmamohuratsowesatbesidethereandstartedchantingour
gurumantraandprayedtoallthreegodsandalsootherspiritualpowerwhichexistintheuniversewesatthereabout
morethanonehourandsetbacktoourcampsite.Wedontknowwhybutwereallyfeelinggreattobehereonthis
auspiciousdayandinrespectofgreatsoulBhimhereonEkadashiwhichisnamedafterhimwehaddecidedkeepfast
wholeday.RememberitwasthisplaceatSatopanthTalwhereBhimoneofthebrotherofpandavashadaboardhis
soultoheaven.

ThewaywhichwehadpresentedinfrontofSatopanthTalearlymorningonemayhadarisequestionin
the mind likewise did we saw god here I would like to share my experience and very happy to explain
this.AsIhadmentionedearlierthatwepeoplearematerialpeoplelivinginmaterialworldsowealways
waitandexpectsomethingmiraculousthingtobehappenedbutitisnottrueitisnotthatwaythatwe
think happening miracles likewise god appearing and granting some wishes and say Tathastu. Let me
explain my experience what we felt here on this day here at Satopanth Tal, as we sat besides the
Satopanth Tal and we bow with join hands we saw the water of the Tal was very calm and still, the
atmosphere over the Tal was also quite no wind no sound we can hear our breathing sound we
pronouncedourprayerandchantedourGurumantrawetookhalfanhourandstilltheatmospherewas
quite and cool and absolute no wind and now we can see the reflection of the front mountain in the
wateroftheTalasifweseethereflectioninthemirrorwithveryclearimage.Thanwestartedchanting
in the name of three great god Brahma Vishnu and Mahesh looking to the surrounding and to the
Satopanth Tal here as we were very much involved in the prayer we did saw happening something
unusualandfeltsomethingisthereresponsibleforhappening.Inthiszeroconditionatmospherewithno
windandnothingmovingthesurfaceofthewaterstartedripplinggentlyandtheripplingwasappearing
in that area where we were sitting and when we looked towards the wide open side over the Tal the
water was still and we can see the reflection of the mountain was absolute like a still image and this
scene was continuous for more than 5 minutes and gradually again stopped and became a single still
water body. We were spending more and more time as we were felling great with the gratitude of the
god,natureorgoodspiritwhateverwesay.NowitwasabouttoSuntoshineanditwasnearlyonehour
wespenttimesittingbesidetheSatopanthTal,aslightbecomesbrighterandwindstartedmovinggently
over the water, now we can feel this wind over our face and this started creating the ripples over the
Tals surface and this time the scene of rippling over water surface was all over the Tal and with a
commonpattern.HerewebowtotheGodandthegoodspiritverygratefullybymakingexperienceusthe
presences of the God, this is fact this is not an illusination and remember one thing anything what is
seen by someone is for himself or herself of which it can be share the experience by explaining but
cannotmakehimsee.

Whenwereturnbacktothecampsiteitwasabout5.20amandstillourguideandpotterswereintheirsleepingbags
sowesteppedintoourtentsandtookrestforsometime.Todaytherewasnothingtodoandnowheretogosowe
gotupat8.15amagainthismorningandgotfreshandsawsurroundingitwasbrightsunlightandweatherwasclear.
AtthismorningMannuRawatwasdoingcleanupworkhere,heandhismenweregatheringthethrashandgarbage
from all over area thrown by the tourists and visitors and set them afire. Seeing the cleaning work of the area by
MannuRawatIwasverymuchpleased,hereIsayheisthetrueguidehavingtruespiritandrespectforthenature
whichisalsohisKarmabhumi.
 MannuRawatandhisteamgatheringthethrashandgarbage
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burningthegarbage
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As I told earlier here that we had saw some crawling creature like bugs, beetles, ants, different types of flies,
butterflies,bumblebees,bees,wasptypeinsects,centipedesherewehadalsofoundsparrow,crowlikebirdcauseits
looklikecrowbutitsbeakwasyellow,vultures.AfterfinishingthecleanupworkMannuRawataskedmeifthereis
nothingtodoornowheretogoshouldheand two of his men can go for adventure to climb the lower level of the
mountSatopanthovertheSatopanthTalwhichhewillreturnwithin2to3hours,Isaidnoproblomogoaheadand
around9amtheystartedfromthecampsite.

MannuRawatandhismengoingforadventureoverSatopanthParvat
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SonowwedecidedtotakebathandweaskoneofMannuRawatmannamedPravinwhodidntgo,andaskhimtoget
preparehotwaterformywifeandshetookbathandgotready,thenIwassupposetotakedipintheSatopanthTalso
ItookmyclothsandaskedtoPravintotakeonebucketalongwithhimbecauseifthedipisnotpossiblethenIcan
havebathwiththebucketfillingwater.ButthingswererightandtotakedipwaspossibleandthenIgotreadytotake
spiritual dip in the spiritual Satopanth Tal the water was too cold but when I stepped in water I found it was
comfortable I submerge myself till my upper waist and plunged to take three dips in respect of three god Brahma,
Vishnu,andMaheshandthencameoutitwasfeelinggreatandIbowandthankstogodandgoodspirittoallowme
totakedipsintothisholyandpurespiritualSatopanthTal.Withinonehourwefinishedourbathingprogramandthen
wesatbesidetheSatopanthTalandofferedmorningpraywecrackedcoconutandreciteartiofthesecreteTalandwe
alsodidourpaathandwereturnbacktothecampsite.
 WegotreadyaftertakingdipinSatopanthTal
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OfferingmorningprayertogodnearSatopanthTal
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Wehadcompletedourmorningroutineandbynowitwere11.15amandafterfewminutes Mannu Rawat and his
menarrivedfromthehikingthroughSatopanthParvatglaciers.HeretherewasoneSadhucalledMuniBabahewas
withhismounvratinwhichheisnotsupposedtotalkbuthecanexpresshimselfeitherbyactionorbywritingon
paper.WemethimwhilehewascomingbackfromtheSatopanthTalfillinghiscaneofwaterandgoingtowardshis
dwellingwhichwassituatedinfrontsideoftheslopelittleabove,weofferedhimourprayerandbowforblessingand
hedidexceptedourprayerandthenweofferedsomeDakshinabutherefusedtoacceptitwedontknowwhyweask
toMannuRawatheexplainusthatthisSadhudonttakemoneyratherheacceptssomekindoffoodstuff,asMuni
BabasaidIneednomoneysowhatIwilldowithmoneythenSadhuaskedtovisitusathisdwellingaftersometime.

MuniBabawithus
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 DwellingoftheMuniBabaoverrightsideridge
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LaterwediscussedabouttheadventurethatMannuRawathadbeenforandheshowedthephotographsitwasjust
awesomebeyondcomparableIcanonlysayfortheworkofMannuRawatthatIhadbeenwatchingforlast3yearsall
theinformationrelatedtotheSatopanthTalanditstrekandphotographstakenbysomanypeopleindifferenttime
butnobodyeverhaddonesuchexcellentjob.TherearenowordsforappreciatingtheworkdonebyMannuRawatas
weseecasuallySatopanthTalfromtheridgeedgeandfromsomedifferentangleatlowerlevelandsomedownnear
theSatopanthTal,butwhocouldimaginegoingtotheSatopanthParvattrekkingfurtherfromSatopanthTalclimbing
moreheightabout1000feetandtakingviewandphotographsfromthatheightanditwasdonebyourguideMannu
Rawatanditwasmostexcellentphotographsopeningourmindtothinkbroaderviewofpictureofthearea.Hereare
some of the shots taken by Mannu Rawat from far above the Satopanth Tal read the description below every
photograph.

aperfectthreepointsoftheSatopanthTalfromjustabovetheridge
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SatopanthTalwithitssmallglacierandbothridgesfrontandrightoftheframe
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ThisismostvaluedphotographswhichgivesuschancetoexperiencethepresenceoftheSatopanth
Talatsuchheightandinthisabsolutenomanland,onethingmorewecanobserveinthe
photographsthatwecanseethewateroftheTalmovesfurtherandgetcollectbeyondthefrontridge
andinbetweentheboulderareaoverthegiantglacier.Ithinkthistypeofadventurewecertainly
 missesbecauseofanygivenreasonbutoneshouldkeepinmindsuchworkisdonewhenwebethere
formorethanoneday.
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ThisphotoisofSatopanthParvatanddownbelowSatopanthTalbelievemeourguideMannuRawat
hadcapturedthefantasticviewfromthelowerlevelsidewiththewhitelineinfrontanditwastwo
andhalfhourstrekforhimandsupposeifwetrytoridethistrekitcouldtake4hourstoandfro
trekking.
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MywifetodayalsodecidedtocookbyherselfsincetodayitwasBhimEkadashisoshehadtocookthethingthatwe
caneatonfastingdayandshepreparedplainaloossukisubziwithsomepeanutpowderandsomeflavor.Wehadour
lightfoodandthentheweatherchangesthecloudbegantoclubanditstartedrainingroundabout2.30pmsameas
dailycourseraincontinuedformorethan2hoursandwesatandtooknapinourtent.At5pmwesetoutsidethe
tentwhenrainstoppedanddecidedtogotoMuniBabasdwellingasitwasjust10minuteswalkalongtheridgeslope
wepickedupourcameraandasmallbookandpenasBabadirectedus.

OurcampsitefromtheoppositesidewaytotheMuniBabasdwelling
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HerewehadsatsangwithMuniBabafornearlyhalfanhourasBabawasnottalkinghewroteeverymassageonthe
pieceofpaperandadvisedusnottoforgetthenameofgodandtoalwaysdogoodthingformankind,forBabawehad
gotsomeChikyandPrasadofpujawhichwehadperformedthismorningandhehappilyaccepted.ThereMuniBaba
offeredussomethingtoeataswewerefastingwecouldnthavesowetookasaPrasadsomeofthepeanutsandbow
for blessing and took permission from Baba and step down from the Muni Babas place walking down towards our
campsite.OnthewayfromherewecanseethebeautifulviewoftheSatopanthTalanditsbacksidemountainslope,
onleftsideoftheviewwecouldseeourcampsite.
 TakingblessingfromMuniBaba
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ThespectacularviewoftheSatopanthTalanditsbackslope
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 OutsideneartheMuniBabadwelling
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SimplyanicephotowithMannuRawatattheendoftheday
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 AboveusthereisMoonintheclearskyatevening
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AfterreturningfromMuniBabawehadsomesnapswithMannuRawatanditshospitalityandthenitwasalmost7.30
pmthenwehadspentourtimegossipingwithourguideandthenwesteppedintoourtentandsatforsometime
revisingthemomentsofthedaythatwehadspentandthenwedidoureveningprayerandpaath,thusweendedthe
dayverynicelyhereatSatopanthTalonBhimEkadashiday.

Sittinginourtentrememberingthemomentsthatwespenttoday
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Day10:

23rdwegotupat6.20amandaswelookedoutofthetentwesawtheweatherwasverycloudyanddullwecouldnt
see anything little far then our surrounding but luckily there was no rain that was good thing for us to begin our
todays journey. We stepped out of the tent and got ready within 15 minutes, we had our breakfast and soon we
packedourluggageandwewerereadyby7.25amtomakemoveforthedayjourneytillSahastradhara.Westarted
ourjourneyfromSatopanthTalat7.35am,asweknewtheroutewewerelessbotheraboutwalkingovertheboulder
zone,heremywifehadgoodjudgetowalkwithourguidebyholdinghishandwhichcouldprobablymakeeasierto
walkontheboulderandroughterrain.

SatopanthTTRMap5,fifthdayoftrekkingfromSatopanthTaltoSahastradharaviaChakratirtha
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daystartingwithcloudyweatheroutfrontIourtrekroute
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 SwargarohiniandChaukhambaarecoveredwiththecloudtillbottom
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GoodbyeviewoftheSatopanthTalquiteandcalmsurfaceofthewater
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Aswecrossedthehalfwaytotheboulderzonetheskybegantogetclearedandappearsasashinydaythesamearea
startedgivingclearviewofSwargarohini,Chaukhambaandtheboulderzonefromwherewetrekdown.Hereinfront
weseetheridgewhichwehadtoclimbandcross,overtheridgewecanalsoseeNeelkanthParvat.
 NowwecanseeSwargarohiniandChaukhambaclearly
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ClearviewoftheNeelkanthParvatovertheridge
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WalkingslowlywithourpacewecrossedtheridgeandwewerenowatChakratirtha,ittookustoreachherealmost3
hourandwecrossedtheChakratirthaplainandattheotherendoftheChakratirthawetookhaulthavingsomething
to eat and took rest for some time. We had our break here for about an hour and then again we started towards
SahastradharawecrossedonemoreridgeandslidingdowntheslopetotheplainoftheSahastradharabutbeforethat
afterwalkingfor5minuteswesawanotherspectacularviewoftheNeelkanthParvatinveryclearweather.
 WearetakingrestafterhavinglightsnacksatChakratirtha
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OnemoreclearviewoftheNeelkanthParvatrightbeforecrossingridgetotheplainofSahastradhara
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 WalkingdowntowardsSahastradharaplain
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WereachedatSahastradharaplainby12.35pmandittookmore2hoursfromheretoreachourdecidedcampsite
and we made it at 2.10 pm at our campsite on the top of the ridge from here one side we can see all glacier and
Alakhnandariversnout far down below and other side we see the Sahastradhara mountain wall and below its plain
withwaterstreams.Sincetodayweallweretogetherwalkingsoourpotterwassupposetoarrangeourtentandwhile
our tent gets ready we had couple of photographs and soon our tent was ready and we were in our tent . Mannu
RawathadtoldusthatnextdaytripwillbetrekkeddownbelowtherethroughtheboulderareaovertheAlakhnanda
Riversnoutandfurtherwhichonecanseeinthephoto.Afteronehourwehadourlunchservedbyourguide,this
descendingtrekkingwaseasybutcatchingourhipsandtoesandwefelttiredsowetookrestforcoupleofhour.In
meantimeweweretakingrestourguideandoneofhismensupervisedthepaathdownoverboulderareaforthree
kilometersdistancetoconfirmtherouteissafetotrekonandheletusnowthegoodnewsandweweregladtohear
thisbuildingourconfidenceforthenextdaytrekking.

RightabovetheAlakhnandariversnoutandwhichisalsoournextdaytrekkingroutethroughthe
boulderareaovertheglacierturningtorightmovingdowntilltheextremerightbehindbigboulder
 oneyouseeinthisframe.
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OnthisdaytherewasnothingtoseemuchanddomuchwejustcoveredthedistanceallthewayfromSatopanthTal
throughChakratirthatoSahastradhara.Wehadrestforcoupleofhourandtheweathertakesitcourseandstarted
rainingasusuallikedailyhappensandsamewayitrainedfornearly2hours,Bythetimedaycloseinourguideasked
forthedinnerandaswehadourlunchlateat3pmwetoldhimtoservelittlelater.Somewhereat8.20pmwehad
ourdinnerandsatdoingourprayerandpaathwhichtookabout45minutesandthenwegetintooursleepingbag
andsleptforthenight.

TheJouneyBegins TheJourney JourneyEnds

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