Potential theory (Laplace equation):

2 2
+ =0
2 2
Linearised boundary conditions:

= 0 for z = -h

1 2

+ 2
= 0 for z = 0
= 0, , = = , ,

By assuming (x,z,t) can be written as (,z), = t-kx and separated as

(,z) = f()Z(z) we found the velocity potential:
cosh ( + )
, , = sin(tkx)
cosh
From the dynamic BC we find the surface elevation:
, = cos(tkx)

From combined surface condition we find the dispersion relationship:

2
c= = tanh
2
2 2
L= tanh
2
Wave length in shallow, transitional and deep water

Wave length depends on period and depth and has to be found by iteration:
2 2
L= 2
tanh Wave lengths for water depth h = 5 m
150
1. order solution
Deep water (h/L>1/2) Deep water L = g/2 * T2
2 Shallow water L = T *(g*h)0.5
L= 2

Shallow water (h/L<1/20) 100

Shallow water (h/L < 1/20)

L =T
Wave length L [m]

Iteration methods:
0) Trial and error 50

1) Bisection
2 2
2) Li+1 = 2 tanh

3) Newton-Raphson
Deep water (h/L > 1/2)
.. and many others 0
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
Wave period T [s]
Particle velocities and accelerations:

cosh (+)
u= = cos(tkx)
cosh
sinh (+)
w= = sin(tkx)
cosh
cosh ( + )
= sin(tkx)
cosh
sinh ( + )
= cos(tkx)
cosh

Valid for z0 and H/L<<1 !!

Schedule

Lecture No. Content

Introduction, phenomena and definitions, governing equations,

1
boundary conditions
Linear wave theory, solution of Laplace equation, dispersion
2
relationship, particle velocities and accelerations

3 Pressure field, particle paths, wave energy, energy flux

4 Changes in wave form, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave breaking

5 Wind generated waves, time domain analysis of irregular waves

6 Frequency domain analysis of irregular waves

7 Wave reflection and reflection analysis