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ISSN 1853-9610

N83 FEBRUARY - MARCH 2017

Mendoza

Wine Harvest
Festival 2017

Restaurants & Winery Guide * Maps

w w w. w i n e - r e p u b l i c . c o m

contents
News Republic
Hop-On ,Stagger-Off..............................................
Wine Chopper..........................................................
Sky is the Limit.........................................................
Grape Expectations
Charlie OMalley gets some Harvest
History........................................................................
Tha Parade. Va Blanca and Carrusel..............
The Central Act.......................................................
Festival Highlight....................................................
Blue Lagoon
Charlie OMalley braves 4200 meter heights
to bring you the majestic and desolate
Laguna Brava in La Rioja.......................................

CREDITS

Issue FEBRUARY - MARCH 2017 ISSN 1853-9610.

10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.
Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3.
Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613
Editor: Charlie OMalley
Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gmez Rus:
publicidad@wine-republic.com,
mariana@wine-republic.com
Contributing writers: Mariana Gmez Rus

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Volume
Music plays no small part in Mendozas Wine
Harvest Festival. Mariana Gomez Rus finds
her groove with wine.............................................

16

Out & About

Bars............................................................................... 22
Dining out.................................................................. 24
Winery Guide........................................................... 27
Maps & More
Useful information................................................
Map of Chacras de Coria.......................................
Map of San Martn Park.......................................
Map of Mendoza City Center............................
Map of Maip............................................................

Illustration: Pencilrobot.net
Donough OMalley.
Design: Circlan.com .
Jona Conti: jona@circlan.com.
Printer: Artes Grficas UNION
Opinions expressed in this
magazine are not necessarily
the editorial opinions of Wine
Republic www.wine-republic.com

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NEWS REPUBLIC
Hop-On, Stagger-Off.
A new open-top bus now ferries wine lovers around
the historic wine district of Maipu. Instead of huffing
and puffing on a bicycle, you can jump on and off at
over thirteen stops which include such fascinating
wineries as Giol, once the biggest winery in the World,
and Alandes, the picturesque boutique operation of
rising star winemaker Karim Mussi The beauty of this
new service is it starts at Maipu train station which
has a tram link to Mendoza City center and the ticket
price of $200 AR includes the railway ticket from the
city. The circuit takes one hour and twenty minutes
and passes such grape gems as ultra-modern Trivento
and charming Carinae a 5-minute walk from stop
Vistandes. For lunch we recommend the gourmet
tasting menu at Trapiche. The service runs from 9am
to 5pm, Monday to Saturday. For more information and
bookings go to the Mendza City Tour ticket office on
Plaza Independencia, in front of the Hyatt.
- See our Maipu map page 34 -.

For an alternative commentary on

the Mendoza City Tour Bus,
download our podcast at

wine-republic.com

Wine Chopper.

Sky is the Limit.

If a bus aint your style, what about a helicopter? There

could be no better sense of arrival than setting down on
the lawn of a splendid wine mansion in your very own
wine chopper. Helitours is a new service that provides
transfers and tours through the air for those in a hurry
or partial to the high life. At $800 US and hour, it may
not be in everybodys budget but is sure to be popular
with high rollers and corporate wine buyers.

At last a new airline has called time on the cosy duopoly

of Latam and Aerolineas Argentina in Argentina. Low
cost Chilean operator Sky has started daily flights from
Mendoza to Santiago de Chile, a 30-minute flight often
more expensive than a 8-hour transatlantic service,
especially in the winter when the mountain pass is
closed and many travelers and desperate to cross the
mountan. A flight that never cost less than 300 US
is now on offer for a fraction of that and is sure to be
popular with Argentine shoppers and long distance
travelers with connections in Chile. Sky is at the
vanguard of new wave of cheaper airlines coming to the
region that will rock the boat, or should I say fuselage, of
the more established and expensive monopolists.
www.skyairline.cl

More information please visit:

www.discovertheandes.com/

Grape

Expectations
Charlie OMalley gets some Harvest History

The days before harvest are always worrisome, especially

in a region where a five-minute hailstorm of icy golf balls
can destroy a years work. Mendoza loses between 10
and 15 % of its fruit production because of these biblical
storms that rip through the vineyards leaving pulped
grapes amidst packed ice on the ground. Bodegueros sigh
with relief when the crop is finally in. Traditionally farm
labourers celebrated with music, dance and not a few
demijohns of wine. A young girl was selected amongst
the harvesters and crowned with a bunch of grapes. She
became the Harvest Queen, a symbol of beauty, optimism
and thanksgiving.
From these somewhat informal, spontaneous beginnings
La Vendimia was born and the party just got bigger as
it spawned into a beauty pageant with carnival style
pretensions.. April 1913 was an important date in its
evolution. A business congress in Mendoza ended with

a procession of coaches, each representing a vineyard,

trundling through the city streets. A parade was born.
It wasnt until 1936 however when the first Harvest
Queen was officially elected and recognized by the
provincial government. Because of its working class roots,
many middleclass families were reluctant to enter their
daughters. This soon changed as the prizes grew richer
and the title more prestigious. 1936 was also the first year
an entrance fee was charged, justified by the fact that
it was also the most spectacular. Decorated gondolas
floated on the park lake and fireworks entertained the
enthusiastic multitude.
The festivals growing popularity created problems. The
increasing numbers of spectators made it difficult for
the organizers to find a suitable venue. Somewhere was
needed to showcase the performers and the crowning. It
was a problem that would plague them for thirty years.
1939 saw the Church put its oar in with first Blessing of
the Grapes. A statue of the Virgin Carrodilla now presides
over this ceremony, riding up front in the procession.
Also in the same year a proper stage set was used in the
Central Act and the organizers decided it was best to keep
people in suspense and announce the Queen at the end
rather than the beginning.
In 1940, they used a giant floating set on the park lake
surrounded by glittering gondolas. Sounds lovely but
all that water, electricity and alcohol must have made it
a health and safety nightmare. As luck would have it a
violent storm disrupted it entirely and the ceremony was
forced indoors. The Queen was chosen in the old Plaza
hotel (now the Hyatt) and the carnival postponed until
Monday.

Noem Ongarato, Surez, Reina nacional de la Vendimia del ao 1945.

Maip. Mendoza. Source: www.mendozantigua.blogspot.com.ar

Finally, in 1963, a Greek style amphitheatre was opened

in the park. At last the main show had a home and it
celebrated with a colourful display of lights, sound and
fireworks.
The festival was growing. What had begun as a traditional
rural party had now become a glitzy and sophisticated
spectacle, done with flair and professionalism. The
Harvest Queen, originally a kind of homage to womens
work and sacrifice in the fields, has evolved into an
ambassador for Mendoza, representing the virtues of the
people and the beauty of the area. The festival became a
showcase for the city and the region and briefly catches
the attention of the chattering classes in Buenos Aires.
The festival has evolved into a two-month affair with
multiple events that includes wine tasting on the city
center streets, jazz in the park and even a gay alternative.

Did you know?

Evita came in 1947 and gracefully refused the
offer to be Queen.
The festival is a measure of The governors
popularity. When he enters the amphitheater
he will be either clapped or jeered. Sometimes he
might send some minions beforehand to test the
water and prevent any possible embarrassment.
In January 1970 Mendoza suffered a terrible flood.
People died and cars and homes were wrecked.
Yet the show must go on and the Vendimia went
ahead with great success.
The judging panel was once a small elitist club
of ambassadors and dignitaries. Now its an
unwieldy mass of over 1000 representatives.
In the unlikely event of a draw, the Queen wins
by lottery. It happened in 1947.

The Parades

La Via Blanca and The Carousel

Here we go; Mendozas very own kind of carnival,
celebrating wine, women and Argentine history. There
are two parades but both are very similar in content.
The big difference really is that one; La Via Blanca takes
place at night and the other; The Carousel kicks off the
following morning. Both are essentially street parties
that attract up to 100,000 spectators. They come to watch
and cheer a colourful line of musicians and performers,

Bendicin de los Frutos

horse drawn coaches and sumptuous floats. Each district
queen is there, blowing kisses and regally waving to the
crowds. Posses of Gauchos gallop along in all their glory.
Beware of flying tetrapaks a the queens throw gifts to the
crowds. One year an unfortunate lady was concussed by
a flying lemon. People fall into acequias as they grasp for
a flying grape.

The Central Act

This is the finale, held in Teatro Griego Frank Romero Day
(Parque San Martin). 25,000 paying guests show up to
watch a grand spectacular of lights and sound. Hundreds
of dancers, musicians, actors and performers display
their talents on a massive stage. Then to cap it all (quite
literally), a Harvest Queen is finally elected and she is
crowned amongst much fanfare, hoopla and fireworks.
Hit me with those laser beams.
Then, as if that wasnt enough, the whole show is repeated
again the following night, and the following night. So you
have no excuse if you miss it.

What you need to produce such a show?

3,000 square metres of scenery
25,000 festival lights
3,500 sheets of veneer
2,500 square metres of wood
4,000 costumes
500 kilos of fireworks
and 1,000 people running around shouting at each other.

Tickets & Practicalities

Prices vary from 120 to 400 pesos according to
seating. Each seating area is called after a variety
of wine with obviously Malbec in pride of place up
front. Tickets are not released until several weeks
before the event and can be hard to get, especially
for visitors who are just here a few days over the
weekend of the festival. It is best to contact local
travel agents such as Aymara and CATA who
organise transfers and guided groups.
Be aware the venue is in an isolated area of the park
with poor access and infrastructure. Restrooms
are limited and no refreshments are provided so go
prepared, especially with a bum pillow for those cold
concrete seats. The repeats are much better than
the Saturday event as they avoid the tediousness of
the Queen selection. Be prepared for huge crowds
and tight seating.

Festival Highlights
Vendimia is a monstrous affair, and we are not referring
to the huge papier mach floats that are trundled out
each year. As early as January events start kicking in
with regional queens decked out in gowns and tiaras
appearing in the newspapers and on TV and on the back
of Iveco pick-up trucks. Soon these lucky girls will have
their giant portraits postered around the city announcing
which district they represent. Lujan de Cuyo is always
the hot favorite.
Events are numerous and varied and dont always
involve lots of rouge and mascara. Cinema in the park,
street theater and childrens music workshops are just
some of the many happenings listed on the busy schedule
publicised on www.vivivendimia.com.ar. Here we have
listed the main events and biggest crowd pullers.

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Saturday 4th February and Sunday 5th February

Jazz on the Lake, San Martin Park. 8.30pm

Thursday 9th February and Friday 10th February

Latin America Food Fair, Espacio Cultural Julio le Parc

Thursday 23rd February and Friday 24th February

Rock le Parc, Espacio Cultural Julio le Parc.

Thursday 23rd to Monday 27th February

Mendoza Mega-Tasting- 4 nights of open air winetasting on Sarmiento Street. (Recommended)

Friday 3rd March

Via Blanca Parade. 10pm.

Saturday 4th March

Carrusel Parade. 10am (Recommended)
Acto Central. 8pm.

Sunday 5th March

Vendimia Horse Racing, Mendoza Hipodromo.
Acto Central repeat. 8pm

Monday 6th March

Acto Central repeat. 8pm

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Blue Lagoon
Charlie OMalley braves 4200 meter heights to bring you the
majestic and desolate Laguna Brava in La Rioja.

It will probably be snowing by the time we get up there.

said my guide Emiliano.
I looked at him somewhat incredulously. It was 9.30am
and already 44 degrees Celsius outside. I had the car AC
on so hard it was straining like a jet engine. I had just
arrived in Vinchina, a small mountain town in La Rioja
and gateway to the magnificent Laguna Brava, a little
visited, high altitude lake close to the Chilean border.
I wouldnt have breakfast just yet. he said, eyeing my
paw in the bakery bag. The altitude will make you vomit.
Great, I think. Snow and starvation. It is going to be a fun
day.
The car trundled across a Bailey bridge, a temporary metal
contraption constructed over the remains of the town
bridge destroyed by a mudslide six months previously.
This river valley drops 3000 meters in 500 meters. So
with heavy rains we get mudslides that carry lots of rocks
and debris.
The terrain is chocolate brown rock and clay punctuated
by jagged slabs of granite that point vertically into the air.
The road is a dirt path that twists and turns up through the
river valley. We pass a hill called the Pyramid, because
that is exactly what it looks like, and a cave of hanging
rocks that look like multiple male genitalia.
The landscape eventually opens up into high, desolate
hills with beautiful hues of green and ochre. We
encounter herds of guanaco and vincuna standing still in
the hillsides.

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Hunting is now prohibited. explains Emiliano. Since

the area was declared a protected area the population of
guanacos has increased from 800 to 6000.
Soon they become as common and unremarkable to us as
sheep in New Zealand.
My guide recounts to me the history of the region. How
the road was originally a herding trail for huge cattle
drives into Chile. Now and again we pass dome-shaped
stone huts that were shepherd shelters. The colorful,
undulating hills finally stretch back behind us and at last
we reach the high plain with a shimmering white lake in
the distance. It looks like turquoise hued snow but is in
fact a salty tide of water lapping against a pebbly beach.
Pink flamingoes stare back at us as high, dark volcanic
peaks sit bluntly in the background.
Well Im glad I did not have that medialuna. I can hardly
talk. My stomach churns. My head aches and my eyelids
are heavy with tiredness. Emiliano seems completely
unaffected.
We pull up at the shimmering shore. I attempt to get out
of the car but the door will not open as it is jammed tight
by the howling wind outside. I eventually slump out onto
the Martian floor and stagger forward, fumbling with my
camera. My fingers are sore with the biting, cold wind.
Over here! shouts Emiliano.
I walk like a drunken toddler, my limbs hampered by the
wind and heavy with tiredness. I make it over to the stone
hut and stoop inside. The air is pungent with the smell of
burnt ash and the desert herb jarilla.

13

Look Emilian points down. Buried in the wall is an

exposed skeleton. Its bleached skull looks at me with
suffering.
A dead man found by the shepherds. explains my guide.
The whistling wind in my ear disappears with the click of
the car door closing behind me. I take a deep breath and
cling to the steering wheel.
Maybe we should head back down. says Emiliano
sagedly.
Im afraid to tell him I can hardly drive. I somehow manage
to cross the high plain without incident. We descend
through the river valley and my head begins to clear, the
nausea pass and the tiredness lift. We are suddenly back
amongst the multi-colored hills and herds of guanaco.
Now you can have breakfast. My guide says.
It was 4 in the afternoon.

How to get there.

The only way is by car, preferably 4X4. The town
Vinchina is a 3-hour drive from La Rioja City, or 4
hours, 30 minutes from San Juan City and 6 hours,
30 minutes from Mendoza. The nearby town of Villa
Union is the best to use as a base as it has some very
good hotel options and is also close to the National Parks
of Talampaya and Ischigualisto (Moon Valley).
Laguna Brava cannot be explored without guide. A
guide is easy to reserve at Laguna Brava Turismo
Cooperative,
(www.turismolagunabrava.com;
Tel.
03825 494 374) an excellent group of local experts
that are inexpensive to hire approximately 250 AR

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per person). The guide accompanies you in your car

or at the head of a convoy of cars. The tours depart
between 8am and 10am and take all day. The reserve
is open all year long but best to visit in the summer.

15

Volume
Music plays no small part in Mendozas Wine Harvest Festival.
Mariana Gomez Rus finds her groove with wine.
With wine most people can leave it or take it. But asking
ourselves if we like music is like asking ourselves if we
like to breathe. Music allows us to live, to lead, to reach,
to reflect, to evolve, to heal. To sing, dance and harmonize.
To feel.
A few years ago, a study by Edinburghs Heriot Watt
University confirmed that music influences the taste
of wine. Psychologist Adrian North details in his report
that music stimulates certain brain circuits and this
leads to the wine in our palates feeling different. Not
better, but different. Humans are associative beings and,
as far as music is concerned, we love to associate songs
with moments and merge them with other perceptions.
Sounds that are heard at the time of tasting add to our
mood and musical tastes will change the taste of the wine
we are drinking. Thus red wine this can feel up to 60%
heavier and powerful if it is accompanied with heavy
and powerful background music. It is the same case with
whites, which can feel up to 40% lighter and cooler if the
background music is (correct): light and fresh. The most
notable differences were with reds and this is because the
complexity of a red wine is greater than that of a white.
If light, temperature and air affect a wine, could not
music affect it as well? Music is played in cellars and
vineyards throughout California, Germany, Portugal,
France and Spain. In Tuscany, Carlo Cignozzi, owner of Il
Paradiso de Frassina, cheered his workers by playing his
accordion while walking among the vineyards. When he
saw that the harvest became more productive with his
musical intervention he went further and investigated
whether the music could also affect, in some way, the
vine. According to Cignozzi (aided by a research team
from the University of Florence) Vivaldi, Scarlatti or Bach
stimulated plant development while Beethoven or Mozart
helped to reduce pests.
Closer to home, Chilean winery owner Aurelio Montes
plays Gregorian chants in the cellars of his wineries in
Chile, California and Mendoza at Kaiken in Vistalba.
The motive? Let the wine mature in a relaxed setting.
Apparently the soft and constant vibrations provoke a
better performance of the wine whilst it ages in the barrel
as it creates a small vibration, slowly moving the liquid
particles, mixing better the components of the wine and
motivating the tannins to become smoother and better
integrated into the wood. Besides, it creates a more relaxed
environment for the cellar workers.

Even music played in a wine store can drastically

influence the purchases we make. French music played
in a European supermarket moved customers to buy
more French wine labels than German and when the
loudspeakers began to play German music people began
to put more German labels in their shopping basket. It
has been proved that a group of customers, under the
influence of classical music, end up buying more wine
at higher prices than if it did under the influence of
contemporary music. It seems classical music leads us to
associate buying with something more select, elegant and
refined.

Musical pairings.
Recently I drank a Pinot Gris while listening to New
Wave. I grew up in the eighties and those incipient
electronic sounds mixed with fresh wine, I thought, could
be a good combination. I gave it a go. Not only did I get a
good musical pairing, but I ended up dancing alone and
crazy in the kitchen. I only had two drinks.
So if powerful melodies give a boost to wine than rock
is Cabernet Sauvignons best friend. A rustic Tannat
could go hand in hand with Bob Dylan or some indie
country, while a Syrah should find its best company
in a symphony or Pavarotti Singing Nessum Dorma. A
refreshing Chardonnay with tropical aromas demands
Cuban rhythms, while the complexity of a Viognier goes
hand in hand with the notes of Bossa Nova. Blends are
very personal. If it is red I think that you have to raise the
volume to progressive rock. A Merlot, not so structured
or delicate, would go well with any Beatles record. Pinot
Noir is soul. Sparkling is a chameleon to which pop, disco,
electronic, indie and chill out can adapt to the occasion.
Torronts must be accompanied by Argentine folklore
although any ethnic music will do. Ros is glam. Cabernet
Franc has the delicate intensity of piano or a jazz trumpet.
And Malbec? Its firm tannins and plum aromas should be
joined with the sweet, deep and melancholic melodies of
tango.

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PLAYLIST

1.Ultra Cabernet
Sauvignon (Kaiken)
Communication
breakdown (Led
Zeppelin)

2.The Apple doesnt

fall far from the tree,
Pinot Gris (Richitelli
Wines) - Rapture
(Blondie)

3.Gran enemigo,
Cabernet Franc
(Aleanna) Naima
(John Coltrane)

5.Cuvee Reserve
Nature (Cruzat)
Happy New Fear
(Deichkind)

6.Finca los Gallegos

Malbec (Altocedro)
Contrabajissimo
(Astor Piazzolla)

7.Cheval des Andes

(Malbec-Cabernet
Sauvignon. Petit Verdot)
Terrazas de los Andes
Echoes (Pink Floyd)

8.Inicio Chardonnay
(Finca Agostino)
Paque gozen
(Cubanisimo)

9.Cadus Syrah (Nieto

Senetiner)
Mephisto Waltz (Franz
Liszt)

10.Revolver Pinot Noir

(Alto Las hormigas)
Lets get it on (Marvin
Gaye)

11.Laborum Single
Vineyard Tannat 2015
(El porvenir) - Call your
boys ( Iron & Wine)

12. Primognito
Merlot (Patritti)
A day in the life (The
Beatles)

13. La Flor Malbec

Ros (Pulenta Estate)
Queen Bitch (David
Bowie)

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/////////
Bonus
track
/////////

. La Gran Revancha (MalbecCabernet Sauvignon-Ptit

VerdotCabernet Franc)
Mendel. Carpet Crawlers
(Genesis)

4.Serbal, Viognier
( Atamisque)
Desafinado (Joo
Gilberto e Stan Getz)

. Unsono (Malbec-Cabernet
Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc) Angulo Inoccenti.
Blessed relief (Frank Zappa)

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Musical events
in Mendoza

Jazz in the Park, Harvest

Festival (Classical Music
in the Airport vineyards),
Americanto, between the
end of February and the
beginning of March.
Classical music on the Wine
Routes. Wineries, churches
and cultural centers are
the venues for symphonies,
philharmonic
orchestras
and classical soloists. The
acoustics of certain cellars
and churches is a spectacle
seldom seen, or rather:
listened to. It happens every
year around Easter.

Mendoza Wine Rock includes

local and national bands as
well as some winemaker
rockers who drop their lab
coats and take to the stage.
It happens every year in the
month of May, at Clos of the 7
winery in Valle de Uco.
Tango on the Wine Routes.
Orchestras,
dancers
and
soloists dance tango during
every September.

USEFUL INFORMATION
AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier
can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam
wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold
on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus
terminal and internet cafes. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly
exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol.
Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras
which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization
which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric
hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca), tel (261) 641 6047.
CHANGING DOLLARS - Cambio, cambio shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the
place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped
off check the current rate of the dolr informal on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU

The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171,
172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below) where
youll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy
bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture can
cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not
pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso,
Carinae and certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the
excellent El Enemigo.

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bars
inside Mendoza City

The list below has some great bars but if youre looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue,
the nightlife strip of Mendoza. Its a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by
the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide
you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs dont even get started
until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

LE MERVAL
Mendozas newest bar is a chic, modern space with good music,
food and excellent cocktails. What realy makes it stand out
from all others is a beer bidding system inspired by the stock
exchange. A TV screen displays the price of beer with prices
dictated by demand. Time your beer run correctly and you will
get a bargain pint. Stocks and shares never seemed so interesting.
Another big plus is that has the excellent Patagonia beer on tap.
Aristides Villanueva 383. Open every day 6pm to 2am
ANTARES BAR
Aristides street would not be very complete without its own
micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer
in this respect with bars located across the country since
before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long
bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as
Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them
in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.
Aristides 153.
Black Sheep
Just off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an Americanstyle sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food
like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken
wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The
Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday
from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!
Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

HANGAR 52
This warehouse bar has a rough and ready bohemian vibe
with bare walls and high, corrugated roofing. There is nothing
rough and ready about its beers however as they offer smooth,
well honed IPA, lagers and stouts. There are over 50 variieties
to choose from and service is rapid as they operate a self service
ticket system that puts an end to long waits - a drinkers curse in
Mendoza. The food is standard fare but with big convivial tables,
resident DJs and early evening opening hours it has quickly
become one of the most popular and lively bars on the strip.
Aristides 168.

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BELIEVE IRISH PUB

One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and
high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English partowner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat
and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor
in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On
the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled
beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub
grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit musicvideo montages or football games. Monday night is
International night and for their packed events DJs rock
the house. Colon and Espaa 241. Tel. 261-429-5567.
www.believeirishpub.com.ar

23

dining out

Recommended

El Mercadito

MENDOZA
CITY
Josefina
Josefina Resto
The
trendy,
cosmopolitan
international cooking experience
Josefina resto is an island of
elegance on hectic Aristides street.
The building is a playful mix of
the urbane and the natural. The
warmth of vintage style drawings
adorning the walls are illuminated
through large handsome street
windows. After work hours you are
welcome to pop up for some gourmet
tapas accompanied with a rotating
selection of by the glass wine. At
sunset, a thoughtful combination
of candle and industrial light bulbs
will put you in the mood for a fine
dinner. The food is eclectic, seasonal,
and very personal a fusion of Anas
mum traditional cooking experience.
Aristides Villa nueva 165. Tel 4233531

The perfect spot for some lunch

time sunshine or al fresco dining.
Run by three friends, El Mercadito
has a cool vibe and relaxed music
making it a favorite. Opening in the
morning for healthy breakfasts and
antioxidants juices, El Mercadito
stays open throughout the siesta
with its light menu of sandwiches,
big salads and some Argentine classic
meals. Aristides Villanueva 521. Tel
- 4638847. Avg. meal price: $190.
Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961. Tel
- 4962267.

Los Toneles

Los Toneles

El Mercadito

Located 15 minutes walk beyond the

city center, this handsome historical
winery offers Old World elegance
and atmosphere.
The expansive
restaurant serves traditional dishes
with a gourmet twist and its the
perfect lunch or dinner spot for those
who have just arrived and want
some genuine Mendocino ambience .
Lateral Norte Acceso Este 1360. Tel 431 0403. Open Tuesday to Saturday
lunch and dinner.

Grill Q

Josefina

Chic parrilla style restaurant (part

of the Park Hyatt hotel) with open
kitchen. Famous for grilled meats
and gigantic empanadas, and serves
hearty Argentine classics such as
locro a stew that hails back to
the early independence days. The
Hyatts other restaurant, Bistro M,
offers a more gourmet evening menu
and the most exuberant lunch menu
in town. Chile 1124. Tel - 4411225.
Avg. meal Grill Q $250 pesos. Bistro
M - Executive Menu $280.

La Patrona

La Patrona
Cozy Mendocino restaurant with a
casual, rustic charm attracts with
traditional Argentine food and
friendly and warm atmosphere.
Hearty empanadas and sizzling asado
go with warm, open sandwiches. We
recommend the artichoke hearts
and goat cheese; roasted vegetables
with white wine and honey; or the
more traditional pick of rich glands
cooked in lemon. 9 de Julio 656. Tel
- 4291057. Mon. to Sat.:12.30pm3.30pm and 8.30pm-close. Avg. Meal
cost: $220.

24

Grill Q

25

dining out
OUTSIDE
THE CITY
Finca Agostino
Elegance, history and the perfect
marriage of food and wine is what
youll experience by dining at
the restaurant of Finca Agostino
winery. The overall vibe is polished
and handsome. The food is equally
majestic 5 courses of well thought,
imaginative dishes that are paired
exquisitely with all the winery wines
often explained and described
by the chef Sergio Guardia. The
menu is seasonal with much of the
ingredients freshly picked from the
propertys organic vegetable garden
and orchard. Carril Barrancas 10590,
Maip. Tel - 5249358. Avg. meal
price: $650 pesos.

Recommended

Ruca Malen
Ruca Malen winery is synonymous
with gourmet food & wine pairings
in Mendoza and was a pioneer in
this area. Having lunch in Ruca
Malen is also a visual experience,
from the food served in creative
plates designed especially for the
occasion by local craftsmen to the
breathtaking view one gets of the
Andes and the vineyard. It also offers
great vegetarian and gluten-free
options. Ruta Nacional Km 7, Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo, Mendoza. Tel: +54 261
553 7164. Cel: +54 9 261 454 1236.
mendoza@bodegarucamalen.com

Los Negritos
Family-owned restaurant in the
rustic splendor of Las Vegas in
Poterillos, 80 km from Mendoza. This
is without doubt the best restaurant
in the mountains, specializing in
traditional family recipes that add
a new twist to Andean fare such as
humitas, tomatican and mondongo.
The restaurant itself is simple and
modern with no frills, but the food of
course. Open weekends and public
holidays 12 midday to 4pm. Avg
$250 AR. Los Olmos ST. La Vegas,
Potrerillos. Te. (0261) 155697431.

AlPasin

AlPasin
Elegance and luxury are combined
with breath taking views at what
is the latest hotel and restaurant in
the stunning Uco Valley. Traditional
dishes with the accent on season
are served in a light filled dining
room with red leather seats, bare
rafters and stone walls shadowed by
snowcapped peaks. The overall vibe
is comfort and elegance with an open
fireplace for those chilly high altitude
nights. Avg. meal price: $400 pesos.
Ruta Prov. No 94. Las Chacayes,
Tunuyan. Tel. +54 9 2613202999.
www.alpasion.com.ar.

La Azul

Finca Agostino

Lunch in a Winery
Whatever you do in Mendoza,
make sure to have lunch in a
winery. There is nothing quite
like sitting back to a long line of
wine glasses holding delicious
Chardonnay, Torrontes, Malbec
and
Cabernet
Sauvignon
(amongst others), accompanied
by the finest, gourmet food
Argentina has to offer. The icing
on the cake is that icing on the
Andes in the background and the
lush green vines of the vineyard.
It is definitely the most civilised
way to get drunk on the planet.

26

A pioneer in the Uco Valley region,

this boutique winery now offers
hearty lunches in a rustic setting with
stunning views of the mountains.
Family-owned , the owners are often
your hosts and they take pride in
serving giant portions of excellent
beef and pork dishes, accompanied
by the winerys excellent,
high
altitude wines. Popular, authentic
and unforgettable. Open Tuesday to
Sunday. Lunches only. Tupungato.
Tel - (02622) 423 593.

Restaurant Lares de Chacras

One of Mendozas most charming
boutique wine hotels has now opened
its excellent restaurant to the general
public. Located in the picturesque
wine village of Chacras de Coria,
a 20 minute drive from the city,
Lares offers traditional local dishes
in a rustic deluxe environment.
Every Wednesday they offer asado,
Argentine bbq. Larrea 1266, Chacras
de Coria, Tel. (0261) 491 1061 www.
laresdechacras.com/

Vistalba

CAP Vistalba
Undoubtedly one of Mendozas most
beautiful wineries with seductive
mix of new technology and Old
World charm. The restaurant is
super gourmet and elegantly set
above the vineyards with breath
taking views. Be sure to try the top
blend Corte A. Lunches only. Roque
Saenz Pea, Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo.
Tel. 498 9400.

the winery guide

Driving time from Mendoza City

Restaurant

Lodging

Art Gallery

Los Toneles

CITY
Clos de Chacras
Charming boutique operation with
nice history. A five minute walk
from Chacras plaza. Best Wine: Gran
Estirpe. (0261) 496 1285/155 792706.
Monte Libano s/n, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.closdechacras.com.ar

City Center winery Los Toneles

has a charming Old World feel
and excellent restaurant. It is a
five minute walk east of the bus
station.Direccin:
Acceso
Este
Lateral Norte 1360, 5519 Mendoza.
(0261) 431-0403. Open everyday.
www.bodegalostoneles.com

LUJN
DE CUYO

Los Toneles
Cruzat
A boutique traditional sparkling wine
producer with gorgeous bubbles that
can be enjoyed from their terrace
overlooking vines. (261) 5242290,
Costa Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.
bodegacruzat.com

Terrazas de los Andes

Melipal

Alta Vista

The fine wine sister of Chandon

Argentina is a beautifully restored
bodega with well-appointed tasting
room. Best Wine: Cheval de los
Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5. Thames
and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Great Malbec and gourmet lunches

make Melipal one of the most
exclusive wineries to visit. (0261)
4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal.
com.ar

Masterful mix of modern and

traditional.
Tasting
includes
distinctive Torrontes or single
vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.
lzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan
de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com

Mendel

Matervini

An old style winery ran by one of

Argentinas most famous winemaker
dynasties the De La Motta family.
(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor
Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
mendel.com.ar

Two Malbec pioneers - Santiago

Achaval and Robert Cipresso,
break new, exciting ground with
rich, mineral wines from unusual
terroirs. This tiny, boutique
operation only sells from the
winery. Cobos 2142. matervini.com.
Tel. 261 5616691.

Luigi Bosca

Via Cobos

Belasco de Baquedano

The Arizu dynasty are the royal

family of Argentine wine and their
seat of operations is a handsome and
elegant 110-year old winery. (0261)
498 1974. San Martin 2044, Mayor
Drummond, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
luigibosca.com.ar

American winemaker Paul Hobbs

was one of the first to recognise
the possibilities of Malbec and his
Bramare label is possibly one of the
best examples of this varietal. (0261)
479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo.
www.vinacobos.com

Gleaming modern facility with

fascinating aroma room and restaurant
with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864.
Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
belascomalbec.co

Terrazas de los Andes

Catena Zapata

Ciudad

Showcase winery designed like

a
Mayan
temple
overlooking
vineyards and the Andes Mountains.
Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100.
Cobos s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
catenawines.com

Lujn de Cuyo
Maip
Valle de Uco

Belasco de Baquedano

Tapiz

Nieto Senetiner

Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, highend restaurant Terruo and an

instructive wine tour including
barrel and bottle tasting. (0261) 490
0202. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32.
Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.tapiz.
com

Located in a beautiful old winery

in Chacras, Senetiner was founded
in 1888 and makes a great range of
wines and sparkling wines. (261) 496
9099, Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba,
Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner.
com.ar

27

the winery guide

Driving time from Mendoza City

Restaurant

Art Gallery

Lodging

Benegas Lynch

Carmelo Patti

Chandon

Rich history and richer wines. Lovely

old bodega with lots of character.
Best Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261)
496 0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra.
www.bodegabenegas.com

Mendozas most famous garagista.

Carmelo Patti himself is often there
to show you around (in Spanish). Best
Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the
barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin
2614, Lujn de Cuyo.

The original foreign investor, Frenchowned Chandon has been making

great sparkling wines in Mendoza
since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968.
R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.bodegaschandon.com.ar

Caelum
Modern, medium size winery on
the main road to Chile just before
the mountains and has a nice
family feel to it. Best Wine: Fiano
(261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060,
Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar

Decero

Dominio del Plata

Vistalba

Argentinas most famous female

winemaker Susana Balbo is creating
some rich and complex wines in the
heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200.
Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar

Tasting room where one entire wall

is a subterranean cross section of the
actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks.
Fabulous restaurant. (0261) 498 9400.
Roque Saenz Pea 3135, Vistalba.
www.carlospulentawines

Renacer
Dominio del Plata
This Chilean-owned winery creates
the label Punto Final. Small, modern
operation with tours that include
a hands-on lesson in blending.
Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo.
(0261) 524-4416 or 524-4417. www.
bodegarenacer.com.ar
Lagarde
Owner of the oldest white wine in
South America. Try the hand-crafted
sparkling wine made from 100
year old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext.
27. (261) 6815961 San Martin 1745,
Mayor Drummond. Lujn de Cuyo.
www.lagarde.com.ar
Casarena
A beautiful mix of old and new,
this winery mixes tradition and
modernity in an old style winery
with a super modern restaurant with
splendid views of the vineyards and
mountains. Brandsen 505, Perdriel.
www.casarenawines.com
(261)
6967848.

Casarena

28

Chandon

Attractive, modern facility with

spectacular views of the mountains
from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524
4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo. www.decero.com

Ruca Malen
Excellent food, great guiding and
first-class wines. The pairings over
lunch make for an unforgettable
culinary
experience.
(0261)
5537164 / 4540974. R.N.7 Km
1059, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegarucamalen.com
Kaiken

Vistalba
Budeguer
Modern-style Budeguer winery
offers you the chance to blend
wine and art in a warm and relaxed
atmosphere. Its superb terrace is
open until 8pm and it is the perfect
spot to sip a glass of Malbec enjoying
the sunset. Reservations required
at turismo@budeguer.com or (0261)
6830749www.budeguer.com
R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. Mendoza.

This rustic 80 year-old winery houses

a new venture by the prestigious
Chilean winery Montes. Big and
powerful wines, destined for fame.
(0261) 4761111-14 INT 113 / Mobile
(0261-153 530 789) /Mobile (0261-155
509 453)

Kaiken
Dante Robino

Modern boutique close to Mendoza

riverbed. Big concentrated wines.
(0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel,
Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.
com

Founded in 1920, an atmospheric oldstyle winery with a modernist, lightfilled tasting room with excellent
view of mountains and vines.
(0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejn
Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www.
bodegadanterobino.com

Ojo de Vino

Familia Cassone

A modern winery in Agrelo. The

winery restaurant Ojo de Agua,
has a delightful setting next to a
vineyard lake. Bajo Las Cumbres S/N.
Agrelo. (0261) 5731688. hospitality@
ojodevino.com

A charming, family owned winery

in a beautiful setting. Try the
jasmine tinted ros amidst the
pastoral splendour of the owners
expansive garden. Anchorena y
Terrada. (261) 424 6301.
www.
familiacassone.com.ar

Achaval Ferrer

the winery guide

Maip

Lujn de Cuyo

Valle de Uco

Septima

Alpamanta

Catena Zapata

A beautifully designed winery with

clear views of the mountains and a
large terrace used for sunset wine
events after 6.30pm on Thursdays.
(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan
de Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com

Exemplary biodynamic vineyard set

in the rustic splendor of Ugarteche.
Ideal for families and nature lovers.
Calle Cobos s/n.(0261) 153468398.
www.alpamanta.com

Showcase winery designed like

a
Mayan
temple
overlooking
vineyards and the Andes Mountains.
Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100.
Cobos s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
catenawines.com

Pulenta Estate

Norton

Cool minimalist design and rich

complex wines make this a winery
with finesse and style. Best Wine:
Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426.
Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo.
www.pulentaestate.com

Old-style cellars contrast with a hightech production line. Tank and barrel
tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays
are popular with the locals. (0261)
490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.
Lujn de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Pulenta Estate

maipu
Rutini / La Rural
Well-stocked
museum
with
invaluable antiques like cowhide
wine presses and buckets. Giant
oak tanks stand in large, cavernous
halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125.
Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito,
Maip. www.bodegalarural.com.ar

Don Manuel Villafae

AMP Cava
Premium wines made from different
terroirs but all by renowned winemaker
Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings
and a close proximity to the city
make it a recommended visit. Gmez
Adriano 3602. Coquimbito. Maip (261) 4813201/4668048

Lopez

Tempus Alba

Popular, old-style winery with two

museums on the wine. Restaurant
offers gourmet cuisine with a
panoramic view. (0261) 497 6554.
Ozamis 375, Gral Gutirrez, Maip.
www.bodegaslopez.com.ar.
Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial

Charming family run winery with

modern facilities and terrace with a
view. Carril Perito Moreno 570. tel.
4813501. www.tempusalba.com.

Finca Agostino

Trapiche

Elegant and picturesque winery

with ancient vines and walled
orchard. Offer superb lunches and
cookery classes. Carril Barrancas
10590, Maipu. ( 261) 5249358. www.
fincaagostino.com

Argentinas biggest winery is a

mix of old and new, traditional and
industrial, and has the old train
tracks leading up to it. (0261) 520
7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maip.
www.trapiche.com.ar

Small, charming, French-owned

winery offering personal tours and
well-honed wines. Surrounded by
vineyards and olive trees. (0261) 499
0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de
Piedra, Maip .
www.carinaevinos.com

25

Modern winery in the wide open

vineyards of southern Maip.
Intense,
complex
wines.
Art
exhibition all year long. Ruta 60
s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maip. (0261)
5083067. www.dmvwines.com

Carinae

El Enemigo

FincaAgostino
Agostino
Finca

One of Argentinas most talented

winemakers
Alejandro
Vigil
opens the door to this colorful and
unconventional boutique operation.
Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered.
Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. (0261)
697 4213

Carinae
Rutini Museum
Familia Cecchin

Familia Zuccardi
A professional, far-sighted operation.
Attractive restaurant amidst the
vines, famous for its asado-style
lunches and generous wine pourings.
(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5,
Maip. www.familiazuccardi.com

Casa El Enemigo

A family winery using organic and

biodynamic principles where you
can see the entire process from the
beautiful green vineyards to the
minimal intervention winery. (0261)
497 6707, Ruta 60 , 500mts before
reaching Ozamis Sur roundabout
Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

29

the winery guide

Restaurant

Driving time from Mendoza City

Familia Di Tommasso

Trivento

Officially the second oldest winery in

Mendoza and still run by Argentine
hands. Their charming and rustic
restaurant looks onto the vineyard,
just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.
Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maip. www.
familiaditommaso.com

Located in the bucolic splendour of

southern Maipu, Trivento is owned
by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This
modern winery has a beautiful deck set
amidst the vineyards and offers bicycle
excursions within the property. Ruta 60
y Canal Pescara, 5517 Maip, Mendoza.
(0261) 413 7196. www.trivento.com

The Vines of Mendoza

Valle
de uco

Modern, high tech winery in

stunning location.
High quality
wines overseen by Matias Michellini.
www.sophenia.com.ar (02622) 15445622
Domaine Bousquet

Atamisque

Designed like a temple to wine, this

ultra-concept winery includes a
modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel
set high in the Andean valley. (02622)
429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. www.
killkasalentein.com

Trivento

Finca Sophenia

A cooperative of international wine

lovers who have all bought a vineyard
plot each in Uco Valley to make their
own wine with experts. Add to this
a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis
Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley
will never be the same again. Ruta 94,
Tunuyan. (0261) 461 3900
Salentein

Art Gallery

Lodging

This Uco winery has some great

white wines, a unique stony roof and
they breed their own trout which is
served in the charming restaurant.
(0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San
Jose, Tupungato. www.atamisque.
com

Another French transplant to the

Andean foothills of Valle de Uco,
this sizeable operation produces
high altitude Chardonnay, Merlot
and Malbec. Ruta 89. Tupungato.
www.domainebousquet.com (0261)
5274048

La Azul

Corazon del Sol

Simple, small production winery

with not so simple Malbecs, a small
traditional restaurant and now a
beautiful lodge. (02622) 423 593.R.P
89 s/n. Agua Amarga, Tupungato.
www.bodegalaazul.com

A stark, modern winery with big,

concentrated
reds.
Californian
owned and inspired. Tunuyan. Tel.
0261 659 0043.www.corazondelsol.
com.

Salentein
La Azul
Diamandes

The old-world style tasting room

looks upon dramatic views of
vineyards
against
mountains.
Probably the best gourmet lunch
in the winery. (02622) 423 226
Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary,
Tupungato. www. andeluna.com

Modern, imposing winery with

magnificent
wines,
part
of
prestigious French group Clos de los
Siete overkooked by Michel Rolland.
Calle Silva S/N. Vistaflores. (0261)
4760695.
Bodega Masi
Fascinating Italian job in the heart of
Tupungato with commanding views
and commanding wines, especiially
the Amarone inspired varietals and
unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573.
www.masitupungato.com

30

Andeluna

O. Fournier
Most architecturally innovative
winery with rich, concentrated
wines. Excellent lunches in the
modernist visitor center. (02622) 451
088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San
Carlos. www.ofournier.com

Andeluna

Gimenez Riili

Piedra Infinita

A brand new family run affair, part

of the exciting Vines of Mendoza
project. This is a modern winery in
a stunning setting. (0261) 156317105/
0261 / 153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n),
Tunuyn. www.gimenezriili.com
R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. Mendoza.

Innovative, elegant and modern,

Piedra Infinita is the imposing,
dramatic contribution of Familia
Zuccardi in Uco Valley. Expect
rich concentrated wines and exotic
varietals. Open from Wednesday to
Sunday. www.zuccardiwines.com.

MAP OF

SAN MARTIN
PARK

Mendoza City Tour Route

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