Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Barcelona
Up-to-date DIRECTIONS
Inspired IDEAS
User-friendly MAPS
Barcelona
DIRECTIONS
Jules Brown
Introduction
Ideas
Places
Accommodation
173
Essentials
185
Arrival....................................................................................187
Information ....................................................................187
City transport and tours..................................189
Festivals and events ..........................................191
Directory ............................................................................192
Language
195
Index
201
49
Colour Maps
Barcelona
Old Town
Barcelona Transport
Useful Stuff
CONTENTS
Contents
Introduction to
INTRODUCTION
Barcelona
Palau
Gell
When to visit
The best times to go to Barcelona are late spring and early autumn, when
the weather is still comfortably warm, around 2125C, and walking the
streets isnt a chore. In summer, the city can be unbearably hot and humid
with temperatures averaging 28C (but often a lot more). August sees the climate at its most unwelcoming, while many shops, bars and restaurants
close as local inhabitants head out of the city in droves. Its worth considering a winter break, as long as you dont mind the prospect of occasional
rain. Its generally still warm enough to sit out at a caf, even in December
when the temperature hovers around 13C.
Contents
Introduction
5
Rambla
INTRODUCTION
de Raval
Contents
Introduction
6
Plaa
INTRODUCTION
del Pi
Introduction
hams
Contents
Hanging
You could see most of the major sights in a long weekend, though
it pays to get off the beaten track when you can. Designer
boutiques in gentrified old-town quarters, street opera singers
belting out an aria, bargain lunches in workers taverns,
neighbourhood funicular rides,
unmarked gourmet restaurants, craft
outlets and workshops, restored
medieval palaces, suburban walks
and specialist galleries all are just
as much Barcelona as the Ramblas
or Gauds Sagrada Famlia.
Barcelona
THE RAMBLAS
La Ribera
BARRI GTIC
The Gothic Quarter is the
medieval nucleus of the city a
labyrinth of twisting streets and
historic buildings, including La
Seu (the cathedral) and the
palaces and museums around
Plaa del Rei.
EL RAVAL
Barri Gtic
PORT VELL
The spruced-up Old Port harbour
area features high-profile visitor
attractions like the aquarium and
Maremgnum retail-and-leisure
centre.
Contents
Port Vell
LA RIBERA
Introduction
INTRODUCTION
AT A GLANCE
8
EIXAMPLE
INTRODUCTION
Barceloneta
BARCELONETA
The former fishing quarter beyond
Port Vell boasts the citys most
concentrated batch of seafood
restaurants, and marks the start of
a series of beaches running up
past the Port Olmpic.
Castel de Montjuc
GRCIA
The nicest of the suburbs on the
northern edge of the city centre is
a noted nightlife destination, with
some offbeat bars, independent
cinemas and great restaurants
contained within its charming
streets and squares.
MONTJUC
Barcelonas best art museums
and gardens, and the main
Olympic stadium, are sited on the
fortress-topped hill to the southwest of the centre.
Contents
Introduction
Ideas
Contents
Ideas
10
Gauds greatest
fantasies to
Picassos earliest
works, Gothic towers to Romanesque
frescoes, ceramic
Sagrada Famlia
If theres a more famous unfinished church
in the world, Barcelona would like to know
about it the temple dedicated to the
Sacred Family is the essential pilgrimage
for Gaud fans.
P.133 SAGRADA FAMLIA AND
GLRIES
dragons to human
statues
Barcelonas mustsee attractions
Museu Picasso
Trace the genesis of the artists genius in
the city that Picasso liked to call home.
P.93 LA RIBERA AND SANT
PERE
Contents
Ideas
11
Parc Gell
Gauds most playful instincts assert themselves in Barcelonas unrivalled public park,
where contorted stone pavilions, gingerbread buildings and surreal ceramics combine unforgettably.
P.147 GRCIA AND PARC GELL
The Ramblas
The citys iconic central thoroughfare is the
setting for one of Europes greatest free
shows, as buskers, stall-holders, hawkers,
eccentrics, locals and tourists collide to
gleeful effect.
P.51 ALONG THE RAMBLAS
La Seu
The citys majestic Gothic cathedral anchors
the old town, with visits concentrating on
the lush palm-filled cloister and marvellous
roof terrace.
P.59 BARRI GTIC
Contents
Ideas
Childrens Barcelona
12
Theres plenty for
children to do,
much of it free (for
under 4s) or inexpensive (for under
12s). The main
problem is transport, as most
metro stations
(except on line 2)
have stairs or escalators adults often
face a stiff climb
with the pushchair.
Disposable
P.83 EL RAVAL
LAqurium
Come face to face with sharks and other
sea creatures in Port Vells highest profile
(and highest-priced) all-weather family
attraction.
P.75 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Contents
Ideas
13
Parc dAtraccions
On the heights of Tibidabo, overlooking the
city, this terrific amusement park mixes oldfashioned rides with high-tech experiences.
P.160 TIBIDABO AND PARC
DEL COLLSEROLA
Parc Zoolgic
Dolphins to big cats, Barcelonas zoo packs
the worlds fauna into the rolling grounds of
the citys nicest park.
P.104 PARC DE LA
CIUTADELLA
Font Mgica
The lights and music cut in on cue several
nights a week at Montjucs longstanding
sound-and-light show one for all the
family.
P.106 MONTJUC
Poble Espanyol
See Spain in a day in the Spanish Village,
an outdoor museum of reconstructed buildings, artisans workshops and cafs that
makes a great family day out.
P.108 MONTJUC
Contents
Ideas
Stay in style
14
As befits Spains
Neri
capital, Barcelona
has a wide array of
chic hotels to suit
the most fashionable visitor. Rooms
in the citys most
elegant hotels start
at about e250 a
night, and its
Contents
Ideas
P.179 ACCOMMODATION
15
Arts Barcelona
A beachfront beauty with the designer
touch, five-star comforts and a terrific pool
this is widely considered to be
Barcelonas top hotel.
P.181 ACCOMMODATION
Prestige
Minimalism rules in the hotel of choice for
the music and fashion world.
P.183 ACCOMMODATION
Grand Marina
Claris
Rooftop pool, beautiful rooms, and talkedabout restaurant and bar, right in the heart
of the modern city.
P.181 ACCOMMODATION
Contents
Ideas
Contemporary Catalan artists have personalised this luxury waterfront hotel in Port
Vell.
P.179 ACCOMMODATION
On the move
16
Most of
Barcelonas oldtown areas are only
accessible on foot,
but for outlying
sights you can let
public transport
take the strain. In
fact, just reaching
Montjuc and
Montserrat is more
than half the fun, as you
have to rely on cable cars
and funicular railways to
climb the steep gradients.
Reaching Tibidabo is even
more of an adventure, with
train, tram and funicular all
required before getting to
Trasbordador Aeri
The cross-harbour cable car is an iconic
Barcelona ride, but wait for a clear day for
the best views.
P.78 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
the top.
Las Golondrinas
To appreciate Barcelona the maritime city,
jump on one of the daily sightseeing boats
that depart from near the Columbus monument.
P.190 ESSENTIALS
Contents
Ideas
17
Tramvia Blau
Its worth trying to coincide with the antique
tram service that forms part of the
approach to Tibidabo.
P.160 TIBIDABO AND PARC
DEL COLLSEROLA
Telefric de Montjuc
This is the speediest way to the castle ramparts, and the little gondolas offer some of
the best views of the city.
P.113 MONTJUC
Cremellera de Montserrat
The towering heights of Montserrat, an hour
from Barcelona, can be reached by rack
railway as well as by cable car a dramatic
ride in any weather.
P.164 MONTSERRAT
Contents
Ideas
Festive Barcelona
18
Traditionally, each
neighbourhood celebrates with its own
festival, though the
major ones like
The summers foremost arts and music festival centres its performances on Montjucs
open-air Greek theatre.
Contents
Ideas
P.110 MONTJUC
19
Festa de la Merc
The citys biggest annual festival is dedicated to merrymaking and mayhem on a lavish
scale.
P.191 ESSENTIALS
Snar
The electronic music and multimedia art
world parties hard every June as Barcelona
turns techno.
P.191 ESSENTIALS
Contents
Ideas
20
Barcelona is great
for shopping, especially for designer
clothes, handcrafted accessories or
stylish household
items. The sharpest
designers congregate in the
Eixample and La
Ribera; the secondhand/
vintage and independent music
Mercat de la Boqueria
scene focuses on
Vinon
This renowned uptown furniture and design
store is a mainstay of the Barcelona shopping scene.
P.127 DRETA DE LEIXAMPLE
Contents
Ideas
21
Traditional ceramics
Catalan and Spanish ceramics make a good
gift or souvenir Art Escudellers always
has an excellent selection.
P.67 BARRI GTIC
Designer fashion
Some of the hottest European designers call
Barcelona home check out the hip boutiques and funky shoe shops in La Ribera.
P.96 LA RIBERA AND SANT
PERE
Els Encants
Haggle hard and pick up a bargain at the
citys biggest flea market, held every
Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday.
P.137 SAGRADA FAMLIA AND
GLRIES
Contents
Ideas
22
Its not hard to find
a bit of traffic-free
space in Barcelona,
from a quiet neighbourhood corner to
Parc Gell
The citys most extraordinary park, festooned with ceramic decoration, is the
product of architect Antoni Gauds surreal
flight of fancy.
P.147 GRCIA AND PARC
GELL
a formal park.
Some places, like
Parc Gell and
Parc de la
Ciutadella, will be
high on any visiting
list, but to escape
the crowds try hiking in the Collserola
hills, just a fifteenminute train ride
Contents
Ideas
23
Parc Joan Mir
An urban park whose concrete piazza and
towering Mir sculpture are tempered by a
shaded garden with childrens playground.
P.142 ESQUERRA DE
LEIXAMPLE
Parc de la Ciutadella
The park at the eastern edge of the old
town is packed full of surprises, from palmhouse caf to zoological museum.
P.102 PARC DE LA
CIUTADELLA
Contents
Ideas
24
Barcelonas presiding architectural
genius, Antoni
Gaud i Cornet,
changed the way
people looked at
urban architecture
and, with his modernista contemporaries notably
Josep Puig i
Cadafalch and Llus
Domnech i
Montaner also
changed the way
Barcelona looked.
Their style, a sort of
Catalan Art Nouveau,
erupted in the 1870s and
1880s, and following the
modernista trail around the
city shows you some of
Europes most extraordinary buildings.
La Pedrera
The stone quarry is the most eye-catching
apartment building in the city, a sinuous
structure with a fantasy roof terrace that
hosts summer cocktail evenings.
P.126 DRETA DE LEIXAMPLE
Contents
Ideas
25
Hotel Espaa
Some of the greatest modernista names
came together to decorate this solid old
nineteenth-century hotel, which has a particularly splendid dining room.
P.84 EL RAVAL
Casa Amatller
Headquarters of the Centre del Modernisme,
and the best place to find out more about
Barcelonas peculiar architecture.
P.124 DRETA DE LEIXAMPLE
Casa Batll
Gauds Casa Batll anchors the famous
Mansana de la Discrdia, or Block of
Discord, a trio of elaborate mansions built
for the citys nineteenth-century industrialists.
P.125 DRETA DE LEIXAMPLE
Contents
Ideas
26
A spin-off from the
1992 Olympics
was an increased
provision of sports
and leisure facilities
Camp Nou
The citys premier team, FC Barcelona,
plays in one of Europes most magnificent
stadia if you cant get a ticket, the big
games always on TV.
P.152 CAMP NOU, PEDRALBES
AND SARRI-SANT GERVASI
throughout
Barcelona. The city
beaches and swimming pools draw
big summer
crowds, while you
can rent anything
from roller blades
to mountain bikes
to explore the back
streets and promenades. However,
ask a Catalan to
recommend a spectator
sport and there will be only
one answer football, as
practised by the local
heroes of FC Barcelona.
Contents
Ideas
Watersports
Its easy to rent all the equipment you need
for a surf or sail from the Port Olmpic.
P.117 PORT OLMPIC AND
POBLE NOU
27
Estadi Olmpic
The Olympic Stadium, remodelled for the
1992 Games, is at the heart of an Olympic
area that includes world-class swimming
and sports facilities.
P.111 MONTJUC
Rent a bike
With more than 100km of cycle paths, plus
beach promenades and forest trails, renting
a bike offers a different way to see the city.
P.192 ESSENTIALS
City beaches
When the gallery-going, shopping and barhopping flags, spend the day at the beach
Barcelona has five kilometres of sandfringed ocean.
P.119 PORT OLMPIC AND
POBLE NOU
Passeig Martim
Early mornings and weekends are the best
times to work out on the harbourside promenade between Barceloneta and the Port
Olmpic.
P.77 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Contents
Ideas
Historic Barcelona
28
Any walk around
the old town
provides reminders
of Barcelonas long
history, with a
street layout and
surviving walls that
go back to Roman
times. But its the
fourteenth- and
fifteenth-century
Golden Age that
lent the city its
Catalan-Gothic
lustre, when newly
built churches, city hall,
government palace and
shipyards all testified to
Barcelonas influence.
Later, the eighteenthcentury Bourbons
reshaped the city again,
building fortresses to
subdue the unruly
inhabitants.
Contents
Ideas
29
Monestir de Pedralbes
Half an hour from the centre lies the
Pedralbes monastery, boasting not only the
citys most harmonious cloister but also a
world-class art collection.
P.156 CAMP NOU, PEDRALBES
AND SARRI-SANT GERVASI
Museu Martim
The engaging Maritime Museum is housed
in the great medieval shipyards that underpinned Barcelonas early prosperity.
P.74 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Castell de Montjuc
The hilltop Bourbon fortress offers an
eagles-eye view of the city.
P.113 MONTJUC
Contents
Ideas
Cafs
30
There are thousands of cafs,
ranging from century-old coffee hous-
Zurich
Meet me at the Zurich is an age-old
Barcelona refrain.
P.57 ALONG THE RAMBLAS
Caf de lOpera
House caf for the opera house opposite,
this is the most traditional of the citys
watering holes.
P.57 ALONG THE RAMBLAS
Contents
Ideas
31
Laie Llibreria Caf
Stop for breakfast, lunch or a read of the
papers at Barcelonas best bookshop caf.
P.130 DRETA DE LEIXAMPLE
Textil Caf
A relaxing museum caf thats known for its
good food.
P.97 LA RIBERA AND SANT
PERE
Contents
Ideas
Specialist museums
32
A selection of specialist collections
adds to the citys
extraordinary diversity. There are dedicated museums to
the history of
chocolate and the
world of textiles,
while other collections zero in local
matters like
Barcelonas football
Museu de la Xocolata
team or the
Handcrafted chocolates, made on the premises, are the twist at this informative museum.
nuances of Catalan
history. Only the
unclassifiable
Contents
Ideas
33
Museu Frederic Mars
The mad collector to beat them all dont
miss Mars extraordinary range of folkloric
items, household utensils, toys and
ephemera, contained within a lovely oldtown palace with celebrated summer caf.
P.63 BARRI GTIC
Museu Textil i
dIndumentaria
Museu de Cermica
The citys most comprehensive collection of
ceramics is housed in one wing of a former
royal palace.
Museu dHistria de
Catalunya
An engaging presentation of all things
Catalan, from the history of the national flag
to Barcelona at war.
P.76 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Contents
Ideas
On the waterfront
34
Dramatic changes
over the last two
decades have once
again placed
Mirador de Coln
Take the elevator up to the viewing platform
of the Christopher Columbus monument to
survey the ever-developing waterfront.
P.73 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
harbour and
Mediterranean at
the heart of
Barcelona. The old
docksides have
been opened up as
promenades and
entertainment
areas, and the
citys once grimy
Port Vell
The Old Port area at the foot of the
Ramblas has seen its former warehouses
and cargo wharves transformed into a
vibrant entertainment zone.
P.73 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Contents
Ideas
35
Barcelonetas restaurants
The Passeig de Joan Borb promenade, in
the old fishing quarter of Barceloneta, is the
perfect place for a paella or seafood meal.
P.78 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Luz de Gas
The floating bar (open summer only) is the
best vantage-point for the comings and
goings on the Port Vell promenade.
P.80 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Santa Eullia
Step back to the days of sail with a tour of
this historic schooner.
P.74 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Port Olmpic
The twin towers and packed marina dominate the Port Olmpic, whose restaurants
and bars make it the citys liveliest resort
area.
P.117 PORT OLMPIC AND
POBLE NOU
Contents
Ideas
36
Restaurants generally offer a
lunchtime men del
dia (menu of the
day), starting at
about e7, rising to
e10/12 in fancier
places or at weekends. Its a real
bargain, as dinner
in the same restaurant might cost
three times as much.
Budget places often dont
have a written menu, with
the waiter simply reeling
off the days dishes. Lunch
hours are 14pm, though
locals dont eat until 2pm
or later.
Caf de lAcadmia
Many visitors favourite old-town restaurant
has a lovely terrace and offers up a setprice lunch that mixes contemporary and
traditional Catalan flavours.
P.69 BARRI GTIC
Contents
Ideas
37
Agua
This is the best place on the boardwalk for
a beachside lunch full of Mediterranean
flavours.
P.120 PORT OLMPIC AND
POBLE NOU
LEconmic
Glop
A bustling Grcia tavern is the favoured
venue for a family lunch, especially at
weekends when every table is occupied.
Silenus
A fashionable place in the arty upper Raval
for cutting-edge Barcelona cuisine.
P.89 EL RAVAL
Contents
Ideas
38
Barcelona has the
Caixa Forum
lections of work by
Catalan artists
P.107 MONTJUC
Contents
Ideas
39
Col.lecci ThyssenBornemisza
A select gathering of fourteenth- to eighteenth-century European art occupies a
hushed wing of the Pedralbes monastery.
P.157 CAMP NOU, PEDRALBES
AND SARRI-SANT GERVASI
Contents
Ideas
40
Traditional Catalan
food doesnt stray
far from its rural
and maritime roots
think bread
rubbed with tomato, oil and garlic,
chargrilled meats
and vegetables,
fish stews, salt
cod, sausage with
haricot beans, or
mixed rice dishes.
Even the most
fashionable restaurants present a few
homestyle
favourites for local
diners brought up
on earthy flavours
and large portions.
However, sophistication
comes in the shape of a
glass of cava, Catalan
champagne.
Contents
Ideas
41
A glass of fizz
Order the house cava at Xampanayet to
accompany sliced meats and cheeses or a
dish of the local anchovies.
P.100 LA RIBERA AND SANT
PERE
Orxata
A traditional caf like El Tio Che is the
best place to sample the unique milky beverage made from ground tiger nuts.
P.119 PORT OLMPIC AND
POBLE NOU
Noodles (fideu)
The local alternative to paella is noodles
served with seafood and a fiery garlic mayonnaise restaurants in Barceloneta all
have their own version.
P.78 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Contents
Ideas
42
You can catch concerts, plays and
performances at a
wide variety of venues, and internationally renowned
Palau de la Msica
Catalana
Concerts at this extravagant modernistadesigned concert hall are a treat, while the
popular daily guided tours are an added
attraction.
P.91 LA RIBERA AND SANT
PERE
Ramblas (wwww.bcn.es/
cultura), and you can buy
advance concert, theatre
and show tickets from
ServiCaixa (wwww
.servicaixa.com) or
TelEntrada (wwww
.telentrada.com).
Contents
Ideas
43
Sidecar
This rootsy Plaa Reial rock club presents a
varied roster of low-priced gigs and club
nights.
P.72 BARRI GTIC
Teatre Nacional de
Catalunya
The National Theatre a remarkable modern take on a Greek temple has a mission
to promote Catalan-language productions.
P.138 SAGRADA FAMLIA AND
GLRIES
LAuditori
Barcelonas finest concert hall has a yearround programme of classical and contemporary music.
P.138 SAGRADA FAMLIA AND
GLRIES
Tarantos
A longstanding favourite for flamenco, jazz,
funk and jam sessions the after-show
dancing keeps on into the small hours.
P.72 BARRI GTIC
Contents
Ideas
44
When it comes to a
days lazing around
or a nights carousing, Barcelona
offers style, tradition and kitsch in
equal measures.
From tapas-tasting
to view-gazing,
laidback caf-bar
to full-on techno
temple, bohemian
boozer to cocktail
Rosal
emporium youll
Fira
Only in Barcelona fairground rides, popcorn and champagne in one of the citys
most unique uptown bars.
P.144 ESQUERRA DE
LEIXAMPLE
Contents
Ideas
45
Mirablau
The city does great views and great bars
Mirablau combines both to stunning effect.
P.163 TIBIDABO AND PARC
DEL COLLSEROLA
Quimet i Quimet
Theres a touch of class and seriously
good tapas at this in-the-know bar on the
old town fringes.
P.115 MONTJUC
Bar Ra
El Raval has a score or more of quirky
drinking haunts, none funkier or more
colourful than Bar Ra.
P.89 EL RAVAL
Bosc de la Fades
Theres kitsch, and then theres the Forest
of the Fairies, the rustic grotto-bar at the
foot of the Ramblas.
P.58 ALONG THE RAMBLAS
Contents
Ideas
City landmarks
46
By any standards
Barcelona has its
fair share of iconic
locations and
buildings, from the
Ramblas to the
Sagrada Famlia.
Buildings
associated with the
International
Exhibitions of 1888
and 1929, plus
construction for the
Contents
Ideas
Torre de Collserola
Norman Fosters communications tower is
easily visible on the Barcelona skyline, and
is just a short walk from the Tibidabo
amusement park.
P.161 TIBIDABO AND PARC
DEL COLLSEROLA
47
Arc de Triomf
Barcelonas triumphant arch, relic of the
1888 Universal Exhibition, provides the
gateway to the Parc de la Ciutadella area.
P.102 PARC DE LA
CIUTADELLA
Plaa de Catalunya
The whole city comes and goes through this
pivotal square, where just-off-the-metro
tourists mingle with office-workers,
buskers, shoppers and caf patrons.
P.51 ALONG THE RAMBLAS
Maremgnum
No visit to Port Vell is complete without a
stroll along the boardwalk to the harbourside
entertainment zone and shopping complex.
P.75 PORT VELL AND
BARCELONETA
Contents
Ideas
Contents
Ideas
Places
Contents
Places
Contents
Places
51
Plaa de Catalunya
Contents
Places
52
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Quadros
AGUSTI
C DE
LA
SEV
C DE S A N T
TES
PL S. JOSEP
ORIOL
C. D E
PA
NT
La Seu
Santa Maria
del Pi
Antiga Casa
Figueras
Sant
Agusti
LA
TA N
OM
SC
ROC
R IS
C AT
E LA
AV D
C D EL S B O T
ERS
PA L
LA
AG
SS
EL
CD
N
C D E
EL
CD
C DE P OR TAFE R R IS S A
Mercat
de la
Boqueria
IS TE
S FL OR
C DE LE RA M BL A
DE LA
ER
DE L PI
NY
RTU
RR
PLAA DE
LA VILA DE
MADRID
Palau de
la Virreina
CARM
L
C. DE
S
CA
CL
TS
Hospital
de la
S. Creu
O
RF
BARS
Bosc de la Fades 8
R I P OLL
C DE
EN
ABE
TO
DE L PI N
CA RR ER
GEL
CD
E L IS
EL
R AVA L
NN
AA
LA N
CC ES
RR
NT
DE
N SU
C. BO
BE TS
CA
SA
DE
ER
7
5
4
2
6
9
3
1
C DE
JOA Q UIM PO U
CATALUNYA
RS
C A R R E R D EL D U C
D E LA V I C T O RI A
LLE
LAS RAMBLAS
TA
TA L
ERE
SA
C D E LI
S
P DE
ELS
LS
Monument to
Francesc Maci
E LL
A
TAN
LAIE
VIA
LA
LS
PE
POR
AM
C DE LES R
DE
DE
CARRER DE MOLES
ER
DEL
RR
ER
AV
CA
RR
RESTAURANTS
Amaya
Antiga Casa Figueras
Bar Central La Boqueria
Bar Pinotxo
Caf de lOpera
Cava Universal
C DE COMTA L
Gardua
Zurich
A
ELL
TAN
ON
F
E
RD
RRE
CA
El
Triangle
S TR U
C D E
CA
El Corte
Ingls CAFS, TAPAS AND
PLAA DE
C ATA L U N YA
C AR R ER DE B ER GAR A
DE
LL
CO
O
EB
LO
SC
HI
AL
SIN
O
/M
LL
DE
LA
100 m
FU
A
ST
53
Palau Moja
Ramblas 188 t 933 162 740.
Bookshop MonFri 9am8pm, Sat
9am2pm & 48pm; Sala Palau Moja
TuesSat 11am8pm, Sun 11am3pm.
Gallery admission usually free. The
Palau de la Virreina
RAMBLAS FOUNTAIN
Esglsia de Betlem
Ramblas 107 t 933 183 823. Daily
8am6pm. It seems hard to
Contents
Places
54
the Institut de Culturas walk-in
information centre and ticket
office for cultural events run by
the Ajuntament (city council).
Theres a shop too (TuesSat
10am8.30pm), featuring locally
produced objets dart and other
items relating to the city.
PALAU DE LA VIRREINA
Mercat de la Boqueria
Plaa de la Boqueria
Ramblas statues
You cant move for human statues on the Ramblas. As fads and fashions change,
Greek statues and Charlie Chaplins have given way to the latest movie characters,
standing immobile on their little home-made plinths, daring you to catch them out
in a blink. Some join in the fun Mr Burns and Lisa Simpson posing jauntily
for photographs, Matador swirling a cape for the camera, Orange Twirly Girl
windmilling her streamers as money is dropped in front of her. Many are actors (or
at least waiters who say theyre actors), and others make a claim to art how else
to begin to explain Silver Cowboy, lounging on the railings at Liceu metro, or
Tree Sprite, clinging chameleon-like to one of the Ramblas plane trees. Then
theres the plain weird, like Lady Under Rock, her bottom half crushed under a
boulder, issuing plaintive shrieks at passers-by.
Contents
Places
55
MIR MOSAIC
artist, who was born just a couple of minutes walk off the
Ramblas in the Barri Gtic.
Close by, at Ramblas 82, the
Casa Bruno Quadros the
lower floor is now the Caixa
Sabadell was built in the 1890s
to house an umbrella store. Its
unusual facade is decorated with
a green dragon and Oriental
designs, and scattered with parasols. On the other side of the
Ramblas at no. 83, there are
more modernista flourishes on
the Antiga Casa Figueras
(1902), which overdoses on
stained glass and mosaics, and
sports a corner relief of a female
reaper. Its now a renowned
bakery-caf (see p.57).
Contents
Places
56
on the ground floor.Theres also
a city information office at the
centre, and a caf-bar upstairs.
Pavement artists and palm readers
occasionally set up stall outside
here on the Ramblas, augmented
on weekend afternoons by a
small street market selling jewellery and ornaments.
Museu de Cera
Ramblas 46, entrance on Ptge. de
Banca t 933 172 649, w www
.museocerabcn.com. JulySept daily
10am10pm; OctJune MonFri
10am1.30pm & 47.30pm, Sat & Sun
11am2pm & 4.308.30pm. e6.65.
The citys wax museum is located in an impressive nineteenthcentury bank building. It presents
the usual trawl through the
internationally famous and infamous, plus dated film characters,
a mixed bag of public figures
from Mother Teresa to Yasser
Arafat, and underwater and space
capsule simulations. However, if
this doesnt appeal, it is worth at
least poking your head into the
museums extraordinary bar, the
Bosc de les Fades (p.58), while for
aficionados of kitsch there are
night visits every Saturday at
8.30pm and 9.30pm (e12, drink
included; in Spanish only) with
actors and special effects ratcheting up the atmosphere.
Shops
El Corte Ingls
Pl. de Catalunya 14 t 933 063 800,
w www.elcorteingles.es. The citys
Espai Liceu
Ramblas 5159 t 934 859 913. The
shop and caf in the opera
house extension has the widest
range of opera CDs and DVDs
in the city, as well as selling
Liceu branded T-shirts, coffee
mugs, ceramics and other souvenirs.
El Triangle
Pl. de Catalunya 4 t 933 180 108.
Contents
Places
57
Cava Universal
Pl. Portal de la Pau 4 t 933 026 184.
Daily 9am10pm. A useful drinks
Zurich
Pl. Catalunya 1 t 933 179 153.
MonFri 8am11pm, Sat & Sun
10am11pm, JuneSept open until
1am. The most famous meet-
Restaurants and
tapas bars
Cafs
Amaya
Caf de lOpera
Ramblas 74 t 933 177 585. Daily
9am3am. This venerable caf-
Contents
Places
58
AMAYA RESTAURANT
Bar Pinotxo
Mercat de la Boqueria, Ramblas 91
t 933 171 731. MonSat 6am5pm.
Contents
Places
Gardua
Mercat de la Boqueria, c/Jerusalem 18
t 933 024 323. MonSat 14pm &
8pmmidnight. Tucked away at the
Bars
Bosc de les Fades
Ptge. de Banca 5 t 933 172 649.
MonThurs & Sun 10.30am1am, Fri &
Sat 10.30am3am. Tucked away in
59
Barri Gtic
La Seu
LA SEU
Contents
Places
60
El Mercadillo
CA RR ER
CA
SANAS
PLAA
SANT
JOSEP
ORIOL
Santa
Maria
del Pi
OQ
CARRER RAURIC
AB
UER
BOQUE
IA
CARRER DEL C
Herborista
del Rey
C LES HE
C TRINITAT
URES
11
12
C
TRES LLITS
17
CA
RR
EN
25
PLAA
GEORGE
ORWELL
Futura
RER
CARRER DENRULL
D 'E N
DRASSANES
Contents
LM
CLA
VE
Places
RER
PLAA DUC
AMP
LE
C DENS
BOLTRE
CAR
C L
BRAILLE
100 m
PLAA
MERCE
SSA
C DE SILS
ABA
28
CAR
RR A
D' EN SE
PT G E LA PAU
D'
PLAA
VERNICA
AI 20
CA RR ER
RAM
22
OLS
CAR RER DE CD
LAS
AR
CAR
ER
S
UDELLER
ORS
CARRER OBRAD
SC
DELS E
BLA
Art
Escudellers
CARR
PLAA
DEL
TEATRE
C AGL A
19
18
BAN O
C NOU DE ZUR
PTGE BACARDI
VINY
R D'A
CARRER ESCU
DELLERS
BLANCS
PLAA
REIAL
15
CARRER LLEONA
CARRE
C COLOM
A LL
PTGE DEL
CREDIT
C DEL
VIDRE
PTGE MADOZ
Manual
Alpargatera
CARRER DE FERRAN
10
PA L L
E LA
ER D
CARRER BAN
YS NO
US
EL
CARRER QUINT
ANA
RD
E LA
C LL EB RE
PLTA
DEL PI
PI
BDA
EUL SANT
ALI A
A
CS D
R OLE
S
EN A
CA RR E R D
AS
LAS R
AMBL
RRE
C VOLTA
DEL
REMEL
CA
DE
ER
C ARC SANT
RAMON DEL CALL.
AL
RIA
LArca del
Avia
C CE
ER
EN
C S EULALIA
R
AR
D
AR
PL DE LA
BOQUERIA
Gran Teatre
del Liceu
CA
C PETRITXOL
LAS
C JERU
SALEM
LAS R
AMB
5
RR
CARR
R R IS S
Llibreria Quera
PLAA
DEL
PI
LICEU
Cafe de
LOpera
PO RT A FE
Sala
Pares
Mercat de
la Boqueria
C D'EN ROCA
BOT
LL
ERS
Collegi
dArquitectes
PLAA
NOVA
Sant
Felip
Neri
ADIS
C PARA DIS
CARRER JA UME I
C CIUTAT
C D'H
ERCU
LES
AR
ST
C ARR E
R DE
C PALMA
IA
L LED
ER
SANT
JU
NT
N
C JOA NA
A
MASS
AS
ULLER
RER
CAR DORES
TA
POR
TER
IA
CONSOL
AT DE M
AR
Llot
ARQU
ET
PLATA
PLAA
D'ANTONI
LOPEZ
LER
PASSEIG
Places
ORS
S
ELS AG
FUS
CARRER
ER M
30
SA
LLER
AIXER
Post
Office
RER
LE
CA R R
DE LA
SIM OL
Contents
GEL B
NRE
C ABAIXAD
CARRER D
CAR
AMP
RER
CARRER
CARRER
29
31
ER AN
MA
NSE
CARR
PI
RER
C CO
VIN
D'A
C HOSTAL D'EN S OL
L
VEL 26
C JU
CAR
NAU
PLAA
TRAGINERS
27
CAR
ERC
EU
C LA
RER
M
C DE LA
ORR
CA
POM RRER
D 'O R
NS
IGNA
D EN G
CA R RE R
Esglsia
de la
Merc
ER C
CAR
GE
C REGOMIR
CAR
C DE MILA
ER
21
CARR
RR
PLAA
REGOMIR
BDA VILADECOLS
C DATAULF
PA LA
CC
OM T
ADIE
S OB R
24
ES S A
ELLA F I LA
CB
C A RR ER
C
TEMPLARIS
JAUME I
CA
16
S
TE
RVAN
C CE
ORIA
CARRER B
13
14
Gotham
Palau
Palams
PL.
SANT JUST
Esglsia
dels Sants
Just i Pastor
PLAA
SANT
MIQUEL
C MA
M
M
C DAGUERIA
Ajuntament
de Barcelona
PLAA DE
L'ANGEL M
Formatgeria
La Seu
C DARLET
C L'ENSENYANA
Museu
d'Histria
de La Ciutat
Cerera
Subir
CARRER LLIBRETERIA
PLAA DE
SANT JAUME
Santa
Agata
VIA LAIETANA
SANT
CARRER
R
C PA
C PARE
GALLIFA
ERS
Palau
Lloctinent
PLAA
RAMON
BERENGUER
EL GRAN
PL
DEL
REI
AD
HONORAT
C S. F. NERI
Sal del
Tinell
C VERGUER
Palau
de la
Generalitat
PL
SANT
IU
C FRENERIA
CARRER
AT
PIET
La Seu
C D'A
Museu
Frederic
Mars
C
CARRER DE
LS MER
C SANT SEVER
ISP
E
PLAA DE
LA SEU
C SANTA LLUCIA
PLAA
MANUEL
RIBE
Museu del
Calat
Casa de
LArdiaca
C A R R E R D E L I R U R I TA
PLAA C M
ON
S FELIP
TJ U
C
NERI
B
23
PLAA
ANTONI
MAURA
Palau
Episcopal
CM
ARLE
T
C S A G R I S TA N S
V I A L A I E TA N A
RU
D'ISAB
EL II
C DE
LS
CU
C DELS AR CS
U
CC
CR
IP O
LL
61
62
(daily 10.30am6pm; e2) the
elevator (ascensor als terrats) is just
to the left of the crypt steps
which provides intimate views
of the cathedral towers and
surrounding Gothic buildings.
Performances of the Catalan
national dance, the sardana, take
place in front of the cathedral
(FebJuly & SeptNov Sat
6.30pm & Sun noon), while the
wide, pedestrianized Avinguda
de la Catedral also hosts an
antiques market every Thursday,
and a Christmas craft fair every
December.
Contents
Places
63
Contents
Places
Sala Pars
C/de Petritxol 58 t 933 187 020,
w www.salapares.com. MonSat
10.30am2pm & 58.30pm; closed
Aug. Possibly the most famous
64
SALA PARS
Contents
Places
Ajuntament de Barcelona
Pl. de Sant Jaume t 934 027 000.
Public admitted Sun 10am2pm. Free.
Palau de la Generalitat
Pl. de Sant Jaume t 934 024 600.
Tours on 2nd and 4th Sun of the month
(not Aug), every 20min, 10am2pm;
65
also on April 23, and Sept 11 & 24.
Free. The traditional home of
Contents
Places
66
Plaa Reial
Carrer dAvinyo
Contents
Places
Carrer de la Merc
In the eighteenth century, the
neighbourhood known as La
Merc just a block from the
harbour was an aristocratic
address, home to the many
nobles and merchants enriched
67
Cerera Subir
Bxda. Llibreteria 7 t 933 152 606.
Formatgeria La Seu
C/Daguera 16 t 934 126 548. Closed
Mon. The best farmhouse cheeses
Futura
C/Escudellers 56 t 933 174 975.
Gotham
C/Cervantes 7 t 934 124 647. The
Shops
Art Escudellers
C/Escudellers 2325 t 934 126 801,
w www.escudellers-art.com.
Contents
Places
68
Herboristeria del Rey
early nineteenth-century
herbalists shop, tucked off Plaa
Reial, which stocks more than
250 medicinal herbs designed to
combat all complaints.
Llibreria Quera
C/Petritxol 2 t 933 180 743,
w www.llibreriaquera.com. Closed Sat in
Aug. Best and most knowledgeable
Cafs
Bar del Pi
Pl. Sant Josep Oriol 1 t 933 022 123.
MonSat 9am11pm, Sun
10am10pm; closed 2 weeks in Jan &
Aug. Small caf-bar best known
Cerera
Bxda. de Sant Miquel 35 t 933 058
110. MonSat 10am10pm. Amiably
Manual Alpargatera
El Mercadillo
Xaloc
Double-decker complex of
shops selling skate-, club- and
beachwear and shoes look out
for the camel marking the
entrance.Theres a bar upstairs
with a nice patio garden.
Contents
Places
69
Caf de lAcadmia
C/Lled 1 t 933 198 253. MonFri
9amnoon, 1.304pm &
8.4511.30pm; closed 2 weeks in Aug.
Restaurants and
tapas bars
Bar Celta Pulpera
C/de la Merc 16 t 933 150 006.
MonSat 10am1am. This no-
Bodega la Plata
C/de la Merc 28 t 933 151 009.
Daily 10am4pm & 811pm. A
Contents
Places
Ginger
C/Palma Sant Just 1 t 933 105 309.
TuesSat 7pm3am; closed 2 weeks in
Aug. Cocktails and creative tapas
Irati
C/Cardenal Casaas 17 t 933 023
084. TuesSun noonmidnight; pintxos
served noon3pm & 711pm.
Juicy Jones
C/Cardenal Casaas 7 t 933 024 330.
Daily 10ammidnight. Veggie-vegan
70
CARRER DE LA PALLA
Limbo
C/de la Merc 13 t 933 107 699.
MonThurs & Sun 9pmmidnight, Fri &
Sat 9pm1am; closed 2 weeks in Aug.
Matsuri
Pl. Regomir 1 t 932 681 535. MonFri
1.303.30pm & 811.30pm, Sat
811.30pm. Excellent Southeast
Oolong
C/den Gignas 25 t 933 151 259. Daily
8pm1am. Refined fusion food in
Contents
Places
Saln
C/lHostal den Sol 68 t 933 152 159.
MonSat 1.304.30pm & 8.30pm
midnight; closed 2 weeks in Aug. Old
Shunka
C/Sagristans 5 t 934 124 991.
TuesFri 1.303.30pm &
8.3011.30pm, Sat & Sun 24pm &
8.3011.30pm; closed 2 weeks in
Aug.The locals think this is the
71
e30, though sushi and a drink
at the bar by the open kitchen is
an enjoyable compromise.
C/dAvinyo 30 t 934 121 122. Daily
noon1am; closed 2 weeks in Aug.
Vinissim
C/Sant Domnec del Call 12 t 933 014
575. TuesSun noon4pm &
6pm1am. Upscale tavern food
Bars
Ascensor
C/Bellafila 3 t 933 185 347. Daily
6pm3am. Old lift doors and
Glaciar
Pl. Reial 3 t 933 021 163. MonThurs
4pm2am, Fri & Sat 4pm3am, Sun
9am2am. At this traditional
Leticia
C/de Codols 21 t 933 020 074. Daily
except Tues 7pm3am. Cosy bar
Pipa Club
Pl. Reial 3 t 933 024 732,
w www.bpipaclub.com. Daily
11pm3am. Historically a pipe-
Contents
Places
Veronica
Caf Royale
72
admission and make your way
up the stairs.
Jamboree
So-da
Travel Bar
C/Boqueria 27 t 933 425 252,
w www.travelbar.com. MonThurs &
Sun 9am2am, Fri & Sat 9am3am.
Karma
Pl. Reial 10 t 933 025 680. TuesSun
11.30pm5am. A studenty
Macarena
C/Nou de Sant Francesc 5; no phone.
MonThurs & Sun 11pm4am, Fri &
Sat 11pm5am. Once a place
Fonfone
Sidecar
Clubs
Attracts a young crowd into fast,
hard music, though it changes
mood sometimes with satin soul
and best-of-1980s nights.
Contents
Places
Tarantos
Pl. Reial 17 t 933 191 789,
w www.masimas.com. Barcelonas
73
Barcelona has an urban waterfront that merges seamlessly with the old town, providing an easy escape from
the claustrophobic medieval streets. The harbour at the
bottom of the Ramblas has been thoroughly overhauled
in recent years and Port Vell (Old Port), as its now
known, presents a series of heavyweight tourist attractions, from sightseeing boats to a maritime museum
not to mention the shops, bars and restaurants of the
entertainment centre called Maremgnum. By way of
contrast, Barceloneta the wedge of land to the east,
backing the marina retains its eighteenth-century
character, and the former fishing quarter is still the
most popular place to come and eat paella, fish and
seafood. Metro Drassanes, at the bottom of the
Ramblas, is the best starting point for Port Vell;
Barceloneta has its own metro station.
Mirador de Coln
Pl. Portal de la Pau t 933 025 224. April
& May daily 10am-7.30pm; JuneSept
daily 9am8.30pm; OctMarch MonFri
10am1.30pm & 3.306.30pm, Sat &
Sun 10am6.30pm. e2. The striking
Contents
Places
74
RRA
RA
LL
EL
P G
La Merc
DRASSANES
Drassanes
(Museu
Martim)
RA
SS
Govern
Militar
A NES
VE
CLA
ELM
ANS
SEP
PLAA DUC
C JO
DE MEDINACELI
Mirador de
Coln
S
S DRA
D E LE
M O LL
S A N ES
MOLL
M O LL
Real Club
Nautico
Real Club
Maritim
PO RT
VELL
Maremgnum
E LO N A
Estaci
Martima
F U S TA
DE LA
Rambla
de Mar
(Swing Bridge)
RC
DE BA
E N
Terminal
L D RA
O L R T Trans-Mediterranea
M BE
NT
A
S
E
E IG D
Port de
Barcelona
Santa Eullia
Las Golondrinas
(Boat trips)
AL
PLAA DE
LA MERC
PA S S
Port de
Barcelona
PLAA PORTAL
DE LA PAU
Duana
R
ARNE
OR
L L IT
A DE
ROND
NA
SD
PA
CA
R
RRE
M AD RO
LE
DE
IG
DE
XOR
I V IL
DA
GU
AVIN
L SA N
TA
DA
V IL
E
CD
E
E JOS
PG. D
C D E PO
RT A
UER
EDA
E
CD
UC
BAR
P U IG
DE
RIE
GU
DA
IN
AU
AV
PA L
AL
CD
E
CD
6
M OL L
D ES PA
NYA
Torre de Jaume I
World Trade
Centre
Tra
s
(To bord
Mo ado
ntj r A
uc eri
)
TAPAS AND
RESTAURANTS
Antiga Casa Sol 8
Can Manel
10
Can Mao
3
Can Ramonet
4
Can Ros
9
Cova Fumada
7
dZi
11
Jai-Ca
2
OL
LD
EL
RS
Torre
de Sant
Sebasti
Places
MO
LL
NO
A
NY
TA
LU
EN
TA
CA
Museu Martim
CID
DE
C
LO
LL
250 m
MO
Contents
EA
MO
MOLL DELS
L
BA
Santa Eullia
Moll de la Fusta; no phone. TuesFri
noon5.30pm, Sat & Sun
10am5.30pm. e2.40, free with Museu
Martim ticket. The three-masted
V
CARR
LA M
ER D E
COLO
75
Llotja
NS
C DE CO
PLAA DEL
PALAU
PLAA
DANTONI
LOPEZ
ER C
Delegaci
del Govern
Lichtenstein
Sculpture
Mirador
Vell
Marina
TA
IMAX
Port
Vell
NE
ELO
UA
AL
CB
AR
EL
R
VA
AD
ER
O
Hostel
DEL LIT
ORAL
B
T SE
AQ
UIN
IST
CD
AN
DR
EA
Maremgnum
Moll dEspanya t 932 258 100,
w www.maremagnum.es. Daily
11am11pm. From near the
Places
RIA
MI
RR
ER
DE
AST
Parc de la
Barceloneta
A
Mercat de
la Barceloneta
IDA
NT
LA
LES
AM
RA
LL
CE
B A R C E L O N E TA
RV
ER
PLAA
T IM
BRUGADA
MAR
S E IG
PA S D E L AN E TA
CELO
R
A
B
AN
DE S
TJA
PLA
Contents
AR
CA
EL
AL
CA
RRE 9
RD
E LA
LM
IRA
10
LL A
CA
RR
IXA
ER
DA
DE
LJ
UD
ICI
CD
EL
AD
RA
SS
A
Sea Point NA
PLAA
PALMERES
T. C
EL
L A
T
LM
ER
DE
RB
DE
BO
CD
11
7 BOSC
RR
AN
ES
CA
CD
EIG
JO
PLAA POETA
CD
PA
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CD
RD
RC
BA
LA
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MO
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SS
MO
ADO
D
LL
R
EL
L
EL
AG
OT
D I C
San Miquel
PLAA DE LA del Port
BARCELONETA
DE
LAqurium
PES C
UDA
C DE M
Palau
L DO
CTOR
ROND
A LG U
de Mar
PLAA
A
ADER
DE PAU
CD
VILA
EL
BA
LBO
A
2
Museu dHistria
CD
EG
de Catalunya
INE
BR
A
BARS
Irish Winds 5
Luz de Gas 1
Mojito Bar 6
LAqurium
Moll dEspanya t 932 217 474,
w www.aquariumbcn.com. Daily: July &
Aug 9.30am11pm; SeptJune
AV IN G
BARCELONETA
Estaci
de
Frana
AL
C GE N ER OS
CA STA QUESA
MAR
C DE LA
REINA
C DE LATINA
CRIS
76
Contents
Places
Museu dHistria de
Catalunya
Palau de Mar, Pl. de Pau Vila 3 t 932
254 700, w www.mhcat.net. Tues &
ThursSat 10am7pm, Wed
10am8pm, Sun 10am2.30pm. e3,
first Sun of month and public holidays
free. The only surviving
77
Barceloneta
Theres no finer place for lunch
on a sunny day than the
Barceloneta neighbourhood,
bound by the harbour on one
side and the Mediterranean on
the other. Laid out in 1755 as a
classic eighteenth-century grid,
its long, narrow streets are still
very much as they were
planned, broken at intervals by
small squares like Plaa de la
Barceloneta, with its eighteenthcentury fountain and
Neoclassical church of Sant
Miquel del Port.The adjacent
Contents
Places
Passeig Martim
A double row of palms backs
the sweeping stone esplanade
that runs from Barcelonetas
beach, Platja de Sant Sebasti, as
far as the Port Olmpic. Its a
fifteen-minute walk from
Barceloneta to the port, but
some do it much quicker than
that the Passeig Martim is a
notable track for bladers, skaters
and joggers, who have one of
the Meds best views for
company.
PLAA DE LA BARCELONETA
78
Trasbordador Aeri
Torre de Sant Sebasti, Barceloneta
t 933 321 164. Daily 10.45am7pm.
e7.50 one-way, e9 return. The
Restaurants and
tapas bars
Antiga Casa Sol
C/Sant Carles 4 t 932 215 012.
TuesSat 14pm & 811pm, Sun
14pm. Founded in 1903, it was
Can Manel
Pg. Joan de Borb 60 t 932 215 013.
Daily 14pm & 8pmmidnight. An
Contents
Places
79
weekday lunchtime men del dia
keeps the cost down, but theres
usually not much fish or seafood
choice on this.
C/Baluard 12 t 933 193 082. MonFri
8am5.30pm & 8.3011pm, Sat
8am5pm; closed Aug. Theres rarely
Can Ramonet
C/Maquinista 17 t 933 193 064. Daily
10am4pm & 8pmmidnight; closed
Sun dinner & Aug. Reputedly the
Can Ros
C/Almirall Aixada 7 t 932 215 049.
Daily 15pm & 8pmmidnight; closed
Wed. This is one of the best
Cova Fumada
C/Baluard 56 t 932 214 061. MonFri
9am3pm & 68pm, Sat 9am3pm.
Contents
Places
dZi
Pg. Joan de Borb 76 t 932 212 182.
Daily 14pm & 8pmmidnight. Its
Can Mao
80
Bars
Irish Winds
Maremgnum t 932 258
187. MonThurs & Sun
12.30pm4am, Fri & Sat
12.30pm5am. A pretty
Luz de Gas
Moll del Diposit, in front of
Palau de Mar t 932 097
711, w www.luzdegas.com.
MarchOct daily noon3am.
Jai-Ca
C/Ginebra 13 t 932 683 265. Daily
10am11pm. Scrutinize the tapas
Contents
Places
Mojito Bar
Maremgnum t 933 528 746. Daily
5pm5am. Themed Caribbean
81
El Raval
Contents
Places
PLACES El Raval
82
NAT
ER
S
NO
LLA
OV E
EJ
CD
SITG
ES
ER
28
PLAA
DE
TEATRE
Places
BLAS
DE BE
RTLLA
NS
RAM
B OT
C DE PETRITXO
L
UC D
E LA
C D
EN
LAS
C DEN RAURIC
CA
D
ER
RR
E LA
Palau de
General
BOQ
UER
IA
BARR
Ajuntame
PLAA
REIAL
C DELS
C DELS ESCUDELLERS
BLANCS
MBLAS
NCAST
LOM
L TEATRE
C DE LAR C DE
CD
E LA
C DEL VIDRE
LA
C DE
ST. RAMON
Palau
Gell
C DEN ROCA
C DEN AROLAS
RAMBLA
C DE LA UNI
PLAA
DEL PI
PL. DE
ST. J
ORIOL
Santa
Maria
del Pi
C DEL
D
C DE LES RAMELLERES
PTGE ELISABETS
C DEL
DOCTOR DO
C DEL NO
TARIAT
DE ST.
AGUSTC DE JERUSA
LEM
C DE LES
EGI
DOR
Hotel Espaa
Gran Teatre
del Liceu
DE BARBER
27
M
LICEU
SA
PLAA
GEORGE
ORWELL
RS
ELLE
UD
ESC
Contents
C DE JU
NTA DE
COMER
C LE
S
FLORISTE
S E LA
N RO
BA
C DE
DE
LE
S
NE
SA
AS
DR
LES
DE
AV
R ER
AL
V IL
I
N ES
BLA
NOU DE LA RAM
CAR
AR
LP
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AB A
A
NN
DO
A MA
C DE ST
DE
E
C D
EC
C D
R
. OLEGUE
C DE ST
DA
CARRER
S
C DEL MARQU
Mercat de
la Boqueria
LAS RA
IS
GU
M
PARALLEL
DE
S
LES TPIE
26
CARRER DE LEST
LO
IN
CARRER
C DELS N
PCIAOUES
DEN
ROIG
SF
AV
Sant Pau
del Camp
DE SANT PAU
St
Augusti
C DE
PORTA
FERR
IS
Palau de la
Virreina
C NOU DE
ZURBANO
LE
Funicular
de
Montjuc
19
C DE LA
RC
DE
JOSE
P ORI
OL
CARRER DE GUAROI
24
Discos
Castello
FRTUNY
Cerera 15
Mas
El Indio C DEL CARME
22
23
C
BONSUCCS
18
C DE lAntic Hospital
SAN
T RA
PLAA SANT
FAEL
AUGUST
C DE
ST.
CARRER
Ras
C DEL PIN
TOR
HOS
PIT
Capella de AL
C. D E
RAMBLA DE
RAVAL
C DE SANT
MARTI
C DE SANTA ELENA
25
GELS
C LLUNA
C DER
ASME
E JAN
ER
GUARD
C DEL
BI
SBE LA
CARRER DE LA RIERETA
PACI
12
Hospital
de la
Santa
CAR
RER
Creu
DE
L
BERN PTGE. DE
DI MA
RTORE
LL
CARR
ER
CD
ES
C DELS
SALVAD
OR
T. C
LIM
ENT
C DE SANTA
TES
REINA AMELIA
C DE LA LLEIALTAT
LAURORE
21
14
16
Sa
C DE MO
NTALEG
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C DE JOAQUI
N COSTA
LLEO
CARRER
DEL
EN
V IN C
C SA
N
DE
LP
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CE
PD
EV
C DE
IA
LA
NA
CEND
RA
20
CARRER DE
17
Recicle Lailo
Recicle
C DE VISTALEGRE
CARRER DE LA
E
OT PEDRO
NB
C DE LA CER
Jardins
Dr Fleming
RS
DE
11
13
C DEL CARME
BAIXA
RIERA
PL.
LLADEL
CATALUNYA
LE
ABA
T
FAD
10
9
C DEL PEU DE LA CREU
PLAA
VICEN
MARTORELL
XUCL
C DEN
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C DE LA
A
C DE LA CER
ANT
El
Triangle
L
TA
LS
DE
ST.
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A
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E
ERSIT
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CAR
RER
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CARRER DE VALIDONZELLA
C DEN QUI
NTANA
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C AS ANOVA
C AR R ER
RT
PTGE.
DE SANT B
CARRER
DEL
UNIV
LA
C AR R ER
AM A
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CCCB
PLAA DEL
1
PES DE
C DE
LA
LA PALLA
PALOM
C
A
DE
ST
2
CD
ER
CARRER DE TAMARIT
3
C
E
AS
DE
M
Mercat de
FERIANDINA
E
SA
NT
Sant Antoni
Elisabets &
MACBA
C
GI
DE
Forvm
PLAA
L
LA
Zuazo
C
M
DELS
CA D E
RIE
Ferlandina
5
NGELS C
RD
RA
SANT
DELISABETS 6
C
C
O
DE
RE
AL
GURFRE
SQUEN
NA
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SES
8 7
E LA
PE
AN
RRES
DA D
DE
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DE TO
A
IN
AV
GR
DE
RS
LLE
TA
LS
DE
RO
D
DA
TA
O
NT
ER
CARRER DE FLORIDABLANCA
R ON
UNIVERSITAT
Discos
Castello
NI C
RR
V ILLAR OEL
S EPULV EDA
CA
C AR R ER DE
PLAA
DE LA
UNIVERSITAT
El Raval PLACES
200 m
BDA. DE
ST. MIQUEL
C DE
83
Centre de Cultura
Contempornia de Barcelona
(CCCB)
C/Montalegre 5 t 933 064 100,
w www.cccb.org. Mid-June to mid-Sept
TuesSat 11am 8pm, Sun 11am3pm;
mid-Sept to mid-June Tues, Thurs & Fri
11am2pm & 48pm, Wed & Sat
SANT JORDI STATUE
Contents
Places
PLACES El Raval
84
El Raval PLACES
Hospital de la
Santa Creu
Entrances on c/del Carme
and c/de lHospital. Daily
10amdusk. Free. The
districts most
substantial historic
relic is an attractive
complex of Gothic
buildings that was
founded as the citys
main hospital in
1402, a role it
maintained until
1930.The spacious
fifteenth-century
hospital wards were
subsequently
converted for
cultural and
educational use, and
now hold an artisanal
school and two libraries,
including the Catalan national
library, the Biblioteca de
Catalunya.Visitors can wander
freely through the pleasant
medieval cloistered garden
(access from either street), while
just inside the c/del Carme
entrance (on the right) are some
superb seventeenth-century
decorative tiles and a
Renaissance courtyard.The
hospitals former chapel, La
Capella de lAntic Hospital
(TuesSat noon2pm & 48pm,
Sun 11am2pm; free), entered
separately from c/de lHospital,
is an exhibition space featuring
a changing programme of works
by young Barcelona artists.
Hotel Espaa
Rambla de Raval
Contents
Places
85
Palau Gell
neighbourhoods major
Contents
Places
PLACES El Raval
El Raval PLACES
86
produce market makes a nice
contrast to the Boqueria there
are not nearly so many tourists
for a start and, unlike many of
the other city markets, its
surrounded by enclosed aisles
packed with stalls selling cheap
shoes, underwear,
T-shirts, childrens clothes, bed
linen, towels and other household
goods. Come on Sunday and
theres a book and coin market
(9am2pm) instead, with
collectors and enthusiasts getting
here early to pick through the
best bargains, from old paperbacks
to commemorative coins.The
traditional place to take a break
from market shopping is Els Tres
Tombs, the restaurant-bar across
the road (see p.89).
El Indio
C/del Carme 24 t 933 175 442. The
most traditional place in town
to buy linen, pillows, blankets,
sheets and tablecloths the
modernista facade, long cutting
counters, wood panels and
marble floor survive from its
nineteenth-century glory days.
Lailo
C/de la Riera Baixa 20 t 934 413 749.
Ras
C/Dr Joaquim Dou 10 t 934 127 199,
w www.actar.es. Opens 1pm, closed
Mon. Specializes in books and
Shops
Cerera Mas
Recicle Recicle
Discos Castell
C/del Tallers 3 t 933 182 041; no.7
t 933 025 946; and no.79 t 933 013
575; w www.discoscastello.es. Large
Forvm Ferlandina
C/Ferlandina 31 t 934 418 018,
w www.forvmferlandina.com. Closed
Sat pm, Mon & all Aug. Inventive,
Cafs
Granja de Gav
C/Joaquim Costa 37 t 933 175 883.
MonFri 8am1am, Sat 8am2.30am.
Granja M. Viader
Contents
Places
87
Kasparo
Pl. Vicen Martorell 4 t 933 022 072.
Daily 9am10pm, until midnight in
summer; closed 2 weeks in Jan. Sited
Biblioteca
C/Junta del Comer 28 t 934 126 261.
TuesSat 14pm & 9pmmidnight;
closed 2 weeks in Aug. One of the
Casa de la Rioja
C/Peu de la Creu 810 t 934 433 363.
MonSat 14pm & 811pm; bar open
from 9am and after 11pm. The
Restaurants and
tapas bars
nima
C/dels ngels 6 t 933 424 912. Daily
Contents
Places
Elisabets
C/dElisabets 2 t 933 175 826. MonFri
8ammidnight, Sat 8am2am; closed
Aug. Reliable Catalan home
PLACES El Raval
88
El Raval PLACES
Pollo Rico
C/de Sant Pau 31 t 934 413 184. Daily
10ammidnight. Barcelonas
Fragua
Rambla del Raval 15 t 934 428 097.
TuesSun 14pm & 8pm1am. Classic
Mamacaf
C/del Dr Joaquim Dou 10 t 933 012
940. MonSat 1pm1am; open
evenings only in Aug. It looks like a
Contents
9pmmidnight) it operates as a
caf.
Places
Sesamo
C/Sant Antoni Abat 52 t 934 416 411.
Mon & WedSat 1pm1am, Sun
7pm1am. Innovative yet
89
Silenus
C/dels ngels 8 t 933 022 680. Mon
14pm, TuesSat 14pm &
8.3011.30pm. Very arty place near
Bar Ra
Pl. de la Gardua 3 t 933 014 163,
w www.ratown.com. MonSat
9am2am. Extremely hip bar
Confitera
C/de Sant Pau 128 t 934 430 458.
Daily 7pm3am. This modernista
ELS TRES TOMBS
Fortuny
C/Pintor Fortuny 31 t 933 179 892.
TuesSun 7pm1.30am; closed 1 week
in Aug. Step back to the 1970s in
Kabara
C/Junta de Comer 20 t 626 774 405.
TuesFri 14pm & 8pm2am, Sat & Sun
8pm3am; closed Aug. Blood-red
Bars
Almirall
C/de Joaquin Costa 33 t 933 189
917. Daily 7pm3am. Dating from
Contents
Places
PLACES El Raval
90
El Raval PLACES
London Bar
C/Nou de la Rambla 34 t 933 185
261, w www.londonbarbcn.com. Daily
7.30pm4.30am; closed 2 weeks in
Aug. Opened in 1910, this well-
Merry Ant
Clubs
Dostrece
C/del Carme 40 t 933 017 306,
w www.dostrece.net. Daily
11.30pm4am. Small club under a
Jazz S Club
Muebles Navarro
C/Riera Alta 46 t 607 188 096.
TuesThurs & Sun 6pmmidnight, Fri &
Sat 6pm3am; closed 2 weeks in Aug.
Llantiol
C/Riereta 7 t 933 299 009, w www
.llantiol.com. Closed Mon. Idiosyncratic
Moog
Muy Buenas
La Paloma
Contents
Places
91
Domnech i Montaners
stupendous concert hall
doesnt seem to have
enough breathing space in
the tiny street it faces.
Built in 1908, the bare
brick structure is
smothered in tiles and
mosaics, with the highly
elaborate facade resting on
three great columns, like
elephants legs.The
dramatic tiled lobby
provides a taster of the
stunning interior, which
incorporates a bulbous
stained-glass skylight
capping the second-storey
auditorium which
Contents
Places
92
CARRER DE
LES BASSES DE
SANT PERE
ER
OM
LC
DE
ER
RR
ALT EL PELISER
NA
CA
CARRER DE
LA BLANQUER
IA
PLACA
DE PONS I
CLERCH
PASSEIG DE PUJADES
Museu de
la Xocolata
REC
DEL
12
CARR
15
ER
del Mar
Czar
TERIA 17
SPAR
Rafa
Atalanta C DE L E
Teja
Manufactura
US
NVIS NO
19
Atelier ELS
DELS CA
D
CARRER
21
RER
Custo
CAR ASES
S
ULLER
Barcelona
G
A
LS
PLAA DE
CARRER DE
22
Orgens LES
R
99.9% OLLES
DE MA
23
SOLAT
PLAA
DEL
PALAU
A V D EL
C DE
LA MARQUESA
BARCELONETA
CARRER DE RIBERA
20
L A R G EN
S D E
R DOCATA
CARRE
DE
CARRER T
LLEVAN
TA
SO A
DE ALL
GE UR
PT M
100 m
MARQU
G. CASTAOS
C DEL
25
REINA
C DE LA A
CRISTIN
REC
ELL II
DE ISAB
24
PASSEIG
DE
RS
ALDE
CARRERATERIA
DE C
LA PESC E
ER D
CARR PALAU
RERA
CON
C DEL
PLAA
DANTONI
LOPEZ
18
CARRER DELS
ABAIXADORS
Mercat
del
Born
Estac
de Frana
Contents
Places
Parc de la
Ciutadella
TE R A
CARRER
DEL
Vitra
PLACA DE COMMERCIAL
LA
C DE
SECA
LA
R I B E RA
CAR
OS
N
9
C BR ER DE
R
10 11
CAR ROSIC
SA
Daaz
NRE
A
Casa
ER
ES
CM
R
R
OSQU
CA ASEA
Gispert
LES M
DE B
C DE 13
N
R
O
B
CARRER DE LA
14 Santa MariaKitsch SEIG DEL
TARONGETA
16
PAS
RER
C DE
LE
TRIANG
S
DER
SSA
FLA
ELS
CARRER D
C DE MONTCADA
VI A LAIETANA
Cuca Fera
CARRER DE LA PRINCESA
CARRER DE
Museu
CREMAT GRAN
CARRER DE
Textil i d
Museu
CORRETGER
C DEL VIGATANS
Indumentaria PicassoC DE LHOSTAL
DE
SANT ANTONI
Museu
6
7
8
Barbier
NY
GRU
CARRER DE
RRER DE
CA
T
Mueller
C DE LA FUSINA
SABATERE
OLI
VELLS
SERIA
BANYS
ESPA
RS
CD
ER L CARRER DELSS
ALLE
CARR
LL
MIR
CANVI S VE
ERIA
LS
NT
C DE
GE
AR
LA
DE
ER
RR
CA
C DEN TANTARANTA
TARROS
C DE GIR
PLAA DE
S A NT
AGUSTI 2
VELL DELS CARR
TIR ER
3
AC
OR
S
C DELS COTONERS
A
VOLT S
E LA EU
C.D ELS JU
D
ME GIRA LT
R
OLLA
L FON
C DE
C D EN
RS
JAUME I
M
PLAA DE
MARQUILLES
D
FORN
ER DEL A
CARR LA FOND
E RS
RD
CA
LS
DE
R
RE
CA R
OLOMINES
DE C
CARRER
CARRER
ERS
DE SIDE
C O RD
C DE
IA
DELS ASSA
L A BO R
C
DE
R
ONAD
CA R RE
O
CA
DE RRER
LO
LI
DE LES
CARREROLERS
SEM
TAPINERIA
CARRER DE
MASSANET
METGES
CARRER DELS
C DE LES
CARRER DEL
PARE GALLIFA
FREIXURES
CARRER DEL
TRAGI
S
DER
CA
ER
CARRER DELS M
CARRER
D AV E L L A
L
COMTA
C
DEL RE
CARRER
CARRER DELS
MESTRES CASALS
I MARTOREN
Mercat
Santa
AV DE F. CAMBO Caterina
PLAA DE
SANT PERE
C D A L LA D A
V E R M EL L
VIA LAIETAN A
DE
CARRER DE
LES ARENES DE
SANT PERE
CARRER DE JAU
CARRER DE
LES BEATES
EL
PLACA DE
LES BEATES
PLAA
DANTONI
MAURA
CARRER DE
LA VICTORIA
MONEC
CARRER DEN
CARRER DE
DARGENTER
CARRER
DEL BOU DE
SANT PERE
CARRER DE MARE
DE DU DEL PILAR
CARRER DE
L E S B E AT E S
CARRER
Sant Pere de
les Puelles
SANT PERE
MES
ALT
CARRER DE
S AN T P E R E
Palau de la
Msica Catalana
PLAA
DU LLUIS
MILLET
RON
CAFS,
TAPAS AND
DA
DE
RESTAURANTS
SAN
TP 8
Arrel del Born
ERE
Bar Salvador
21
Caf del Born
17
Can Paixano
25
Casa Delfin
16
Comer 24
1
LEconmic
2
Espai Sucre
5
Mar de la Ribera 14
Mosquito
3
Rosal
12
Salero
22
Santa Maria
4
Senyor Parellada 6
Set Portes
24
Textil Caf
7
Xampanayet
11
CA
TRA RRER D
FALG E
AR
CARRER DE TRAFALGAR
CARRER DE ORTIGOSA
DOCTOR
AIG
93
Contents
Places
Museu de la Xocolata
C/del Comer 36 t 932 687 878,
w www.museudelaxocolata.com. Mon
& WedSat 10am7pm, Sun
10am3pm. e3.80. Not many
Museu Picasso
C/de Montcada 1523 t 933 196 310,
w www.museupicasso.bcn.es.
TuesSat & hols 10am8pm, Sun
10am3pm. e5, first Sun of the month
PICASSO T-SHIRTS
94
Museu Textil i
dIndumentaria
C/de Montcada 1214 t 933 104 516,
w www.museutextil.bcn.es. TuesSat
10am6pm, Sun 10am3pm. e3.50,
first Sun of the month free; ticket also
valid for Pedralbes museums, see
p.153. The fourteenth-century
Picasso in Barcelona
Although born in Mlaga, Pablo Picasso (18811973) spent much of his youth
from the age of 14 to 23 in Barcelona. The time Picasso spent here encompassed
the whole of his Blue Period (190104) and provided many of the formative influences on his art. Not far from the Museu Picasso you can still see many of the buildings in which Picasso lived and worked, notably the Escola de Belles Arts de Llotja
(c/Consolat del Mar, near Estaci de Frana), where his father taught drawing and
where Picasso himself absorbed an academic training. The apartments where the
family lived when they first arrived in Barcelona Pg. dIsabel II 4 and c/Reina
Cristina 3, both near the Escola can also be seen, though only from the outside,
while Picassos first real studio (in 1896) was located over on c/de la Plata at no.4.
A few years later, many of his Blue Period works were finished at a studio at c/del
Comer 28. His first public exhibition was in 1901 at Els Quatre Gats tavern
(c/Montsi 3, Barri Gtic; wwww.4gats.com); you can still have a meal there today.
Contents
Places
95
Esglsia de
Santa Mara
del Mar
Museu Barbier-Mueller
C/de Montcada 14 t 933 104 516.
TuesSat 10am6pm, Sun 10am3pm.
e3, first Sun of the month free. A
Contents
Places
church was
begun on the
order of King
Jaume II in
1324, and
finished in
only five years.
Built on what
was the
seashore in the
fourteenth century, Santa Mara
was at the heart of the medieval
citys maritime and trading
district (c/Argentera, named
after the silversmiths who
worked there, still runs from the
church square to the city walls
of the Barri Gtic), and it came
to embody the commercial
supremacy of the Crown of
Aragon (of which Barcelona was
capital). Its an exquisite example
of Catalan-Gothic architecture,
with a wide nave and high,
narrow aisles, and for all its
restrained exterior decoration is
still much dearer to the heart of
the average local than the
cathedral, the only other church
in the city with which it
compares.The Baroque
trappings were destroyed during
the Civil War, which is probably
all to the good since the longterm restoration work has
concentrated on showing off the
simple spaces of the interior; the
stained glass, especially, is
beautiful.
Behind the church is the
square known as Fossar de les
Moreres, which marks the spot
96
cupola, is now
empty, but works
are underway to
refit it as a public
library. Boutiques
and craft workshops
hide in the narrow
medieval alleys on
either side of the
passeig carrers
Flassaders and
Vidreria, in
particular, are noted
for clothes, shoes,
jewellery and design
galleries. At night
the Born becomes
one of Barcelonas
biggest bar zones, as
spirited locals
frequent a panoply
of drinking haunts
from old-style
cocktail lounges to
thumping music
bars.
SANTA MARA DEL MAR
Contents
Places
Shops
Atalanta Manufactura
Pg. del Born 10 t 932 683 702. Sells
Casa Gispert
C/Sombrerers 23 t 933 197 535,
w www.casagispert.com. Roasters of
Cuca Fera
C/Cremat Gran 9 t 932 683 710.
Closed Mon am. Original childrens
Custo Barcelona
Pl. de les Olles 7 t 932 687 893,
w www.custo-barcelona.com. Where
97
Czar
Pg. del Born 20 t 933 107 222. A
Daaz
C/Flassaders 2729 t 933 194 976.
Kitsch
Pl. de Montcada 10 t 933 195 768.
Orgens 99.9%
C/Vidrieria 68 t 933 107 531. An
Vitra
Pl. Comercial 5 t 932 687 219,
Contents
Places
Cafs
Caf del Born
Pl. Comercial 10 t 932 683 272.
MonThurs & Sun 9am1am, Fri & Sat
9am3.30am. No gimmicks, no
Rosal
Pg. del Born 27; no phone. Daily
9am2am. The terrassa at the end
Textil Caf
C/de Montcada 1214 t 932 682 598.
TuesSun 10ammidnight. Set inside
Restaurants and
tapas bars
Arrel del Born
C/Fusina 5 t 933 199 299,
w www.arreldelborn.com. MonSat
14pm & 8.30pmmidnight, Sun
14pm. Lovely, light-filled
98
here, handcaught by the
owners uncle,
and if theres a
rice dish on the
menu choose it
its always
fantastic. Meals
can easily top
e40, though a
men del dia for
around half this
offers a cheaper
way to enjoy
the assured
cooking.
Dinner
reservations
advised.
Bar Salvador
C/dels Canvis Nous
8 t 933 101 041.
MonFri 9am5pm.
Fillets of fish in
egg batter,
grilled steak
with potato
wedges, huge
plates of
escalivada (grilled aubergine,
pepper and onion), or botifarra
(sausage) with haricot beans are
examples from a changing menu
of half a dozen starters and mains
and a few classic puds. Everything
costs around e5, which is why
tables are packed at lunch, but
you shouldnt have to wait long.
Can Paixano
C/Reina Cristina 7 t 933 100 839.
MonSat 9am10.30pm. Unmarked
Contents
Places
Casa Delfin
Pg. del Born 36 t 933 195 088.
MonSat 8am5pm; closed Aug. Old-
school paper-tablecloth
bar-restaurant that offers a cheap
and cheerful men del dia up
to ten fish and ten meat choices,
from grills to stews, topped off
by home-made desserts or fruit.
Add a coffee and the whole
blowout shouldnt top e12.
Comer 24
C/Comer 24 t 933 192 102,
w www.carlesabellan.com. TuesSat
1.303.30pm & 8.30pm12.30am;
closed 2 weeks in Aug. Chef Carles
99
LEconmic
Pl. de Sant Agusti Vell 13 t 933 196
494. MonFri 12.304.30pm; closed
Aug. The beautifully tiled dining
Espai Sucre
C/de la Princesa 53 t 932 681 630,
w www.espaisucre.com. TuesSat
9pmmidnight; closed Aug. The
Contents
Places
Mar de la Ribera
C/Sombrerers 7 t 933 151 336. Mon
811.30pm, TuesSat 14pm &
811.30pm. A cosy little place
Mosquito
C/dels Carders 46 t 932 687 569.
TuesThurs & Sun 5pm1am, Fri & Sat
5pm2.30am. Delicious pan-Asian
100
Salero
Senyor Parellada
Santa Maria
C/Comer 17 t 933 151 227,
w www.santamania.biz. TuesSat
1.303.30pm & 8.30pm12.30am.
gorgeous renovation of an
eighteenth-century building has
kept the arcaded interior and
splashed the walls yellow. Food
is Catalan through and through
cuttlefish and cod, home-style
cabbage rolls, duck with figs, a
papillote of beans with herbs
served from a long menu that
doesnt bother dividing starters
from mains. Most dishes cost
between e6 and e12, while
more than a dozen puds await
those who struggle through.
Set Portes
Pg. dIsabel II 14 t 933 192 950 or
933 193 033. Daily 1pm1am. The
Xampanayet
C/de Montcada 22 t 933 197 003.
TuesSat noon4pm & 6.3011pm,
Sun noon4pm; closed Aug.
Bars
Berimbau
Pg. del Born 17 t 933 195 378. Daily
6pm2.30am. The oldest Brazilian
Contents
Places
101
Rosa de Foc
C/del Rec 69 t 933 195 171,
w www.larosadefoc.com. Daily
6pm2.30am. Multicultural space
Espai Barroc
Fianna
C/Banys Vells 19 t 933 151 810.
MonSat 7pm2am, Sun 11am8pm.
Mudanzas
C/Vidrera 15 t 933 191 137. Daily
10am3am. Locals like the relaxed
Contents
Places
Clubs
Astin
C/Abaixadors 9 t 933 010 090,
w www.nitsa.com/astin. ThursSat
10pm3am. Thumping bar-club
Suborn
C/de Ribera 18 t 933 101 110.
TuesSun 9.30pm3am. A tapas and
102
Parc de la Ciutadella
For time out from the old towns historic intrigues and
labyrinthine alleys, retreat to the citys favourite green
space, Parc de la Ciutadella, on the eastern edge of La
Ribera. It holds a full set of attractions the Catalan
parliament building (not open to the public), plant houses, museums and a zoo though on lazy summer days
theres little incentive to do any more than stroll the
shady garden paths and pilot rowboats across the
placid ornamental lake. The park dates from the demolition in 1869 of a Bourbon citadel, erected here in the
mid-eighteenth century after Barcelonas resistance
during the War of the Spanish Succession. Ciutadella
was subsequently chosen as the site of the 1888
Universal Exhibition from which period dates a series
of buildings and monuments by the citys pioneering
modernista architects. The parks main gates are on
Passeig de Picasso (a short walk from La Ribera), and
theres also an entrance on Passeig de Pujades (Metro
Arc de Triomf); for direct access to the zoo, use Metro
Ciutadella-Vila Olmpica.
Arc de Triomf
Pg. Llus Companys. The giant brick
Cascada
Parc de la Ciutadella. Park open daily
8amdusk. Perhaps the most
Contents
Places
103
CARRER DE ALI-BEI
200 m
ARC DE TRIOMF
C SANCHO
AV I L A
AV INGUDA DE V ILANOVA
SEI
E
GD
CI
L.L
AC
Parlament
de Catalunya
CARRER DE
VILLENA
COU
PA S
Parc
Zoolgic
CARRER DE LA MARINA
MOS
Parc de la
Ciutadella
C D
E
Parc
Zoolgic
Umbracle
CARRER DE WELLINGTON
CARRER DE LLULL
IO
VILA O L MPICA
CIUTADELLAVILA OLIMPICA
ROND
A D EL
LI TO R
AL
C AR R ER D
EL DO C T O R AIGUA DER
PA
IT
Hotel Arts
SE
SP
IN
Z
Museu de Zoologia
Pg. de Picasso t 933 196 912,
w www.museuzoologia.bcn.es. Tues,
Wed & FriSun 10am2pm, Thurs
Contents
CA RRER D E ZA M O RA
A
N
ID
R
E
M
A
Hivernacle
PG DE PICAS S O
Cascada
Museu de
Geologia
VA
MARINA
U
C AR R ER DE S AR DENYA
IN
V
A
PASSEIG DE PUJADES
UM
Museu de
Carrosses
Fnebres
Museu de
Zoologia
Estaci de
Frana C
IA
CARRER DE ALMOGAVERS
C A R R ER D E NA POLIS
ER
M
CO
L
DE
C
Palau de
Justicia
Parc de lEstacio
del Nord
Places
Torre Mapfre
Arc de Triomf
104
on the geological bequest of
Francesc Martorell i Pea, who
gave his name to the citys
Geological Museum, which
opened in 1882. In many ways
its a period piece, with
nineteenth-century cases of
exhibits housed in a classical
pedimented building.There are
rocks and minerals on one side,
and fossils on the other, with
many of the exhibits found in
Catalunya, from fluorescent
rocks to mammoth bones.
Parc Zoolgic
MUSEU DE ZOOLOGICA
Museu de Geologia
Pg. de Picasso t 933 196 895,
w www.bcn.es/museuciencies. Tues,
Wed & FriSun 10am2pm, Thurs
10am6.30pm. e3, first Sun of the
month free. The first public
Contents
Places
105
Museu de Carrosses
Fnebres
Cafs
Hivernacle
Contents
Places
PARC DE LA CIUTADELLA
106
Montjuc PLACES
Montjuc
Youll need to reserve at least a day to see Montjuc, the
steep hill and park rising over the city to the southwest. It
takes its name from the Jewish community that once settled on its slopes, and theres been a castle on the
heights since the mid-seventeenth century. But its as a
cultural leisure park that contemporary Montjuc is positioned, anchored around the heavyweight art collections
in the Museu Nacional dArt de Catalunya (MNAC). This is
supplemented by works in two other superb galleries,
namely contemporary art in the Caixa Forum and that of
the famous Catalan artist Joan Mir in the Fundaci Joan
Mir. In addition, there are several other minor museums
on the hill plus the substantial open-air collections of the
Poble Espanyol (Spanish Village), quite apart from the
arenas associated with the 1992 Olympics. Metro
Espanya provides easy access to Caixa Forum, Poble
Espanyol and MNAC; the Trasbordador Aeri (cross-harbour cable car from Barceloneta) and Funicular de
Montjuc (from Metro Paral.lel) drop you a short walk
from the Fundaci Joan Mir; while the Olympic area can
be reached by escalators behind MNAC.
Plaa dEspanya
When Montjuc was chosen as
the site of the International
Exhibition of 1929, its slopes
were laid with gardens, terraces,
fountains and monumental
buildings. Gateway to the
Exhibition was the vast Plaa
dEspanya, based on plans by
noted architect Josep Puig i
Cadalfach.Arranged around a
huge Neoclassical fountain, the
square is unlike any other in
Barcelona, and a radical departure
from the modernisme so in vogue
elsewhere in the contemporary
city. Striking twin towers, 47m
high, stand at the foot of the
imposing Avinguda de la Reina
Maria Cristina, which heads up
towards Montjuc, the avenue
lined by huge exhibition halls still
used for trade fairs.At the end of
the avenue monumental steps
Contents
Places
Font Mgica
Pl. de Carles Buigas. MaySept
107
PLAA
D'ESPANYA M
ESPANYA
M
C R IS
T IN
AM
.
Fira de
Barcelona
R E IN
A
LLEID
EM
ISTR
AL
CAR
ER D
E BL
P DE
DI
L
LE
AL
AI
ANELLA
OLMPICA
Palau
Sant
Jordi
tjuc
Funicular de Mon
PAU
10
Jardins de
Mossn
Jacint
Verdagur
Jard Botnic
de Barcelona
RAMAR
Jardins
de Miramar
AV
MI
Contents
Places
PARALLEL
T I QUER
CARRER DR FO N
DE SANT
R
PA
CA
XI
S TA
CARR
LE
CARRER DE MANSO
ART
LA CARRER DE
E RIC
BO JAUME FABRA
ER D
BO
A
L
DELS
CARRER PARLAMENT
Institut
E
RD
MON
TAN
del TeatreC CARRE POBLE SEC M A Elephant
AYA
FR
ORDI
Palau Nacional Mercat deAN A RRER DE LA COS NC OLLERS Books
CA
M
A
(MNAC)
2
A D D ELS
les Flores
ER
U
Teatre Lliure RRER D LA CRE 3 SCO
BLA AY
C A R DE
Museu
DE GAR 4 IT
RE
A
R
N
A
Museu
RER DE
AR
ES
AR
RO dArqueolgia C
RG
PIOL
C
D
P O B L E 5 MA DE TA
Palacete Etnolgic
MA
STA
NYES
S E C DE 6 CARRER
Albniz
CABA
8 9
ETA
Fundaci Teatre Grec
RER 7
O
R
P
L
CA
DE
Joan
ER
VA
RR
A
Estadi
SAL
CA
MirA V IN G U D
DON
OSA
DE
TRO
EL R
A
Olmpic
RER
FON
ER D
CAR C A R R
DEN
BLA
RER
CAR C NOU DE LA RAM
CARR
RONDA
DE
Piscines
Bernat
Picornell
AD
CARRER
DA
EIG
GUD
CARRER TAMARIT
L
DE
PAS
S
GU
AV
Font
Mgica
E.F.
AV I N
PLAA DE
CARLES BUIGAS
RER
Poble
Espanyl
AVIN
DA
Pavello Mies
van der Rohe
GU
E
RDI
AV
TA
N-
PLAA DE
L'UNIVERS
IN
AV
Caixa Forum
Caixa Forum
CARRER VILAMARI
PLAA DE
Jardins de LA ARMADA
Mossn Costa
i Llobera
0
100 m
PLACES Montjuc
108
Poble
Espanyol
Montjuc PLACES
Avgda. del
Marqus de
Comillas T 935
086 330, w www
.poble-espanyol
.com. Mon
9am8pm,
TuesThurs
9am2am, Fri &
Sat 9am4am,
Sun 9am
midnight. e7.
reconstruction by Catalan
architects of the Pavell Mies van
der Rohe recalls part of the
German contribution to the
1929 International Exhibition.
Originally designed by Mies van
der Rohe, and used as a
reception room during the
Exhibition, its considered a
major example of modern
rationalist architecture.The
pavilion has a startlingly beautiful
conjunction of hard straight lines
with watery surfaces, its darkgreen polished onyx alternating
with shining glass. Its open to
visitors, but unless theres an
exhibition in place (a fairly
regular occurrence) there is little
to see inside, though you can
buy postcards and books from
the small shop and debate quite
how much you want a Mies
mousepad or a Less is MoreTshirt.
Contents
Places
109
Museu Nacional dArt de
Catalunya (MNAC)
Contents
Places
PLACES Montjuc
110
Montjuc PLACES
Museu Etnolgic
Pg. Santa Madrona 1622 T 934 246
402, w www.museuetnologic.bcn.es.
TuesSun 10am2pm. e3, first Sun of
the month free. The Museu
Museu dArqueolgia
Pg. Santa Madrona 3941 T 934 246
577, w www.mac.es. TuesSat
9.30am7pm, Sun 10am2.30pm.
e2.40. Montjucs archeological
Teatre Grec
Pg. Santa Madrona 38 T 933
161 000, w www.bcn.es/grec.
Centrepiece of Barcelonas
annual summer cultural
Grec festival is this
reproduction of a Greek
theatre cut into a former
quarry on the Montjuc
hillside.The festival starts
in the last week of June
(and runs throughout July
and August), and
incorporates drama, music
and dance at a multitude
of venues around the city
with some of the most
atmospheric works
performed here in the
Greek theatre. Shows and
events feature local
unknowns to international
superstars, and theres
more information (and
ticket bookings) at the
Palau de la Virreina on the
Ramblas (see p.53).
Contents
Places
111
La Ciutat del Teatre
Poble Sec
The neighbourhood of Poble
Sec, or dry village (so called
because it had no water supply
until the nineteenth century), is
a complete contrast to the
landscaped slopes of Montjuc.
Theres nothing specific to see
here, but the grid of steep streets
is lined with down-to-earth
grocery stores, bakeries, oldfashioned bars and good-value
restaurants the best eating
places are listed at the end of
this chapter.The neighbourhood
has its own metro station, or its
an easy walk from El Raval,
Contents
Places
Estadi Olmpic
Galeria Olmpica, Avgda. de lEstadi
T 934 260 660, w www.
fundacio-barcelonaolimpica.es.
AprilSept MonFri 10am2pm &
47pm; OctMarch MonFri
10am1pm & 46pm. e2.70. The
PLACES Montjuc
112
Montjuc PLACES
Contents
Places
Funicular de Montjuc
Inside Metro Paral.lel, Avgda. del
Paral.lel T 010, w www.tmb.net. Every
10min daily 9am10pm (OctMarch
until 8pm). e2.20 return. The
113
Telefric de Montjuc
Avgda. de Miramar T 010,
w www.tmb.net. June to mid-Sept daily
11am9pm; mid-Sept to Oct, April &
May daily 11am7pm; rest of the year
weekends only 11am7pm. e3.60
one-way, e5 return. The Montjuc
Contents
Places
Castell de Montjuc
Carretera de Montjuc T 933 298 613.
Grounds: daily 7am8pm; free. Museu
Militar: mid-March to mid-Nov TuesSun
9.30am8pm; mid-Nov to mid-March
TuesSun 9.30am5pm; e2.50. Built
on seventeenth-century ruins,
the castles outer defences are
constructed as a series of angular
concentric perimeters, designed
for artillery deflection, but the
inner part is startlingly medieval
in appearance, with its straight
walls and square
shape.The fort
served as a military
base and prison for
many years after the
Civil War, and it was
here that the last
president of the
prewar Catalan
government, Llus
Companys, was
executed on Francos
orders on October
15, 1940.You can
walk along the
ramparts for free, and
theres a little
outdoor caf within
the walls. However,
you have to pay to
go inside the inner
keep, where youll
find Barcelonas
Museu Militar,
PLACES Montjuc
Montjuc PLACES
114
containing an excellent
collection of swords, armour,
guns, medals, uniforms, maps and
photographs.
Below the castle walls, a
panoramic pathway the Cam
del Mar has been cut from the
cliff edge, providing
scintillating views, first
across to Port Olmpic
and the northern
beaches and then
southwest as the path
swings around the castle.
The path is just over
1km long and ends at
the back of the castle
battlements, where a
small house (open Sat &
Sun only) sells drinks
and rents out bikes for
use on the surrounding
wooded trails.
Jard Botnic de
Barcelona
C/Dr Font i Quer 2 T 934
264 935, w www
.jardibotanic.bcn.es. Daily:
AprilJune, Sept & Oct
10am5pm; July, Aug &
NovMarch 10am3pm. e3.
Principal among
Montjucs many gardens is the
citys Botanical Garden, laid out
on the slopes behind the
Olympic Stadium. Here, easyto-follow paths wind through
landscaped zones representing
the flora of the Mediterranean,
Canary Islands, California,
Chile, South Africa and
Australia.There are guided tours
every weekend (except Aug) on
the half-hour between 11am
and 1.30pm.
Shops
Elephant Books
C/Creu dels Molers 12 T 934 430 594,
w www.lfantbooks.4t.com. Only
Contents
Places
Restaurants and
tapas bars
Bella Napoli
C/Margarit 14 T 934 425 056.
TuesSun 1.304.30pm &
8.30pm12.30am. Authentic
115
Tivolis Bistro
Quimet i Quimet
C/Poeta Cabanyes 25 T 934 423 142.
TuesSat noon4pm & 711pm, Sun
noon4pm. The neighbourhoods
Taverna La Tomaquera
C/Margarit 58; no phone. TuesSat
1.303.45pm & 8.3010.45pm, Sun
1.303.45pm. Sit down in this
Contents
Places
Bars
Barcelona Rouge
C/Poeta Cabanyes 21 T 934 424 985.
TuesSat 11pm3am. Its red all
PLACES Montjuc
Can Margarit
116
Montjuc PLACES
Cervecera Jazz
C/Margarit 43 T 934 433 259.
MonSat 7pm2.30am. Grab a stool
Tinta Roja
C/Creu dels Molers 17 T 934 433 243.
Wed & Thurs 8pm1.30am, Fri & Sat
8pm2.30am, Sun 611pm. Highly
Clubs
Discothque
Avgda. Marqus de Comillas, Poble
Espanyol T 934 231 285,
w www.discothequebcn.com. OctMay
Fri & Sat midnight7am. The winter
Contents
Places
Tablao de Carmen
Avgda. Marqus de Comillas, Poble
Espanyol T 933 256 895,
w www.tablaodecarmen.com. TuesSun
from 9.30pm. The Poble Espanyols
Terrazza
Avgda. Marqus de Comillas, Poble
Espanyol T 934 231 285,
w www.nightsungroup.com. MayOct
ThursSun midnight6am. Open-air
Torres de vila
Avgda. Marqus de Comillas, Poble
Espanyol T 934 249 309. ThursSat
midnight6am. Located inside the
mock-twelfth-century gateway
in the Spanish Village, this is a
stunning fantasy of a dance club,
with a fabulous panoramic
terrace.
117
Port Olmpic
From any point along the Passeig
Martim, the soaring twin towers
of the Olympic port impose
themselves upon the skyline,
while a shimmering golden
mirage above the promenade
slowly reveals itself to be a huge
copper fish (courtesy of North
American Frank Gehry, architect
of the Bilbao Guggenheim).
These are the showpiece
manifestations of the huge
seafront development constructed
for the 1992 Olympics, which
incorporated an athletes village
for the 15,000 competitors and
support staff the apartment
buildings and residential
complexes were converted into
permanent housing after the
Games.The port itself site of
many of the Olympic watersports
events is backed by the citys
two tallest buildings, the Torre
Mapfre and the steel-framed
Hotel Arts Barcelona, both
Contents
Places
118
BARS AND CLUBS
9
Caf Caf
Kennedy Irish
7
Sailing Club
5
Oven
3
Razzmatazz
4
The Loft
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Hotel Arts
Barcelona Frank
Gehry Fish
10
Parc
Zoolgic
CIUTADELLAVILA OLMPICA
Parc del
Port
Olmpic
DE
L ITO
LP
RAL
OR
TO
LIM
PIC
RC
GA
G
PA
TR
PLAA DELS
VOLUNTARIS
OLIMPICS
AV
PA
SS
EIG
SS
RI
EI
RA
AV
IN
LA
GU
Torre
Mapfre
ES
DA
IF
AR
IA
Nova Icaria
VILA OLMPICA
EL
AW
NY
EIG
PAS
S
elo
Parc de la
Barceloneta
12
MA
11
ta
ne
Ba
rc
RITIM
ACI
500 m
Contents
Places
119
Cafs
Laie Martim
Pg. Martim 35 t 932 247
173, w www.laie.es.
MonSat 8am9.30pm,
Sun 8.30am5pm. This
City beaches
A series of city beaches reaches
north from the Port Olmpic,
along a five-kilometre stretch of
sandy coast as far the River Bess.
Split into different named sections
(Nova Icria, Bogatell, etc), they
are all furnished with boardwalks,
showers and water fountains, while
some also feature climbing frames,
public art and open-air cafs.The
merest hint of sun brings out the
El Tio Che
Rambla Poble Nou 4446 t 933 091
872. Daily 10ammidnight; reduced
hours in winter. Famous old
orxateria in a down-to-earth
Urban renewal
Since the early 1990s the transformation of Poble Nou and its near neighbours has
formed part of an overall scheme to turn the 5km of shoreline from Barceloneta to
the River Bess into a high-tech business, leisure and residential corridor. The extension of Avinguda Diagonal to the sea, north of Poble Nou, provided the necessary
rebranding, and its as Diagonal Mar that the area hopes to prosper. Development
was further boosted by Barcelonas Universal Forum of Cultures (held from May to
September 2004), a sort of cultural and environmental Expo, which brought new
amenities in its wake, including a convention centre, marina, beach, business district,
university campus and metro and tram link. What attraction this development will
have for tourists in the future is still to be seen, though it cant be denied that its on
a grand scale: the convention centre is the biggest in southern Europe, while the
boast about the main Forum open space the Plaza is that its the second largest
square in the world (150,000 square metres) after Beijings Tiananmen Square.
Contents
Places
120
Restaurants and
tapas bars
Agua
Cangrejo Loco
neighbourhood. Orange or
lemon granissat (crushed-ice) and
orxata (milky tiger-nut drink)
come in various servings up to a
litre, and there are also torrons
(almond fudge), hot chocolate,
coffee, croissants and sandwiches.
Bestial
C/Ramon Trias Fargas 24 t 932 240
407, w www.bestialdetragaluz.com.
Daily 1.304pm & 8.30pmmidnight,
Sat & Sun until 1am. Right beside
Contents
Places
Escrib
Ronda del Litoral 42, Platja Bogatell
t 932 210 729. TuesSat 11am1am,
Sun 11am4pm; restricted hours in
winter. Glorified beach shack a
121
Clubs
The Loft
Els Pescadors
Pl. Prim 1 t 932 252 018. Daily 14pm
& 8pmmidnight. Considered
Bars
Caf Caf
Moll de Mestral 30 t 932 210 019.
MonThurs & Sun 3pm3am, Fri & Sat
3pm5am. Most of the Port
Contents
Places
Oven
C/Ramon Turr 126 t 932 210 602,
w www.oven.ws. MonFri
1.30pm2am, Sat 6pm2am;
restaurant open MonFri 1.304pm &
911.30pm, Sat 9pm12.30am.
Razzmatazz
C/dels Almogavers 122 t 932 720
910, w www.salarazzmatazz.com. Fri &
Sat 11pm5am. Razzmatazz hosts
122
Dreta de lEixample
The gridded nineteenth-century new-town area north of
Plaa de Catalunya is the citys main shopping and business district. It was designed as part of a revolutionary
urban plan the Eixample in Catalan (Extension or
Widening) that divided districts into regular blocks,
whose characteristic wide streets and shaved corners
survive today. Two parallel avenues, Passeig de Grcia
and Rambla de Catalunya, are the backbone of the
Eixample, with everything to the east known as the
Dreta de lEixample (the right-hand side). Its here,
above all, that the bulk of the citys famous modernista
(Catalan Art Nouveau) buildings are found, whose fanciful flourishes provide some of the most compelling
urban images in Europe. However, any visit might equally concentrate on the Dretas other undoubted pleasures
from museum and gallery visits to browsing in some
of the citys most stylish shops. Start your exploration
from either Metro Passeig de Grcia or Metro Diagonal.
Casa Calvet
C/de Casp 48. Antoni Gauds
Passeig de Grcia
The prominent showy avenue
which runs northwest from
Modernisme
Modernisme, the Catalan offshoot of Art Nouveau, was the expression of a renewed
upsurge in Catalan nationalism in the 1870s. Its most famous architectural exponent
was Antoni Gaud i Cornet (18521926), whose buildings are apparently lunatic
flights of fantasy that at the same time are perfectly functional. His architectural
influences were Moorish and Gothic, while he embellished his work with elements
from the natural world. The imaginative impetus he provided to the movement was
incalculable, inspiring other Catalan architects like Llus Domnech i Montaner
(18501923) perhaps the greatest modernista architect and Josep Puig i
Cadafalch (18671957). It was in Domnechs caf-restaurant at the Parc de la
Ciutadella that a craft workshop was set up after the Universal Exhibition of 1888,
giving Barcelonas modernista architects the opportunity to experiment with ceramic tiles, ironwork, stained glass and decorative stone carving. This combination of
traditional methods with experiments in modern technology was to become the hallmark of modernisme a marriage that produced some of the most fantastic and
exciting modern architecture to be found anywhere in the world.
Contents
Places
123
PTGE. R. BOSCH
1
2
CARRER DE CORSEGA
Casa Comalat
Muxart
PTGE DE LA CONCEPCI
Palau
Quadras
Vinon
Casa de les
Punxes
AVI
NG
UD
AD
VERDAGUER
IAG
M
ON
AL
Ictineo
Sculpture
Casa
Thomas BD Ediciones
de Diseo
N
La Pedrera
CARRER DE PROVENA
Joaqun
Berao
Mango
PASSEIG DE GRCIA
PTGE. DE DOMINGO
RAMBLA DE CATALUNYA
Dom
Groc
CARRER DE MALLORCA
7
Palau
Ramon
Montaner
PTGE. DE RECTOR
OLIVERAS
M
GIRONA
PTGE. DE PETMANYER
RAMBLA DE CATALUNYA
Mercat de la
Concepci
PASSEIG DE GRCIA
PTGE. DE
MNDEZ VIGO
Museu
8
Egipci
CARRER DE VALNCIA
Bulevard
Casa
9
Fundaci
Rosa
Zara
Elizalde
Fundaci
Antoni
Francisco
Tpies
Armand
Godia
10
Basi
Colmado
CARRER DARAG Casa del Llibre
Quilez Casa Batll
M
Casa Amatller
Muxart 11
13
14
15
PASSEIG DE GRCIA
16
CATALUNYA M
PLAA DE
CATALUNYA
PG DE GRCIA
Zara
Laie
17
18
CARRER DE CASP
19
RON
Casa
Calvet
DA D
E SA
NT P
ER E
C A R R ER D E AU S IAS MAR C
Contents
CARRER DE LA DIPUTACI
Mango
CARRER DE ROSSELL
200 m
M
DIAGONAL
DIAGONAL
CARRER DE BAILEN
PLAA
JOAN CARLES I
CARRER DE GIRONA
Palau
Robert i
C.ST. AGUSTI
C DE STA.
TERESA
C STA. TECLA
Places
124
the modernista style and spirit.
Further up is Antoni Gauds
iconic apartment building La
Pedrera while, in between,
wrought-iron Art Nouveau
street lamps, fashion stores, classy
tapas bars and a designer hotel
or two set the tone for this
resolutely upscale avenue.
PASSEIG DE GRCIA
Casa Amatller
Pg. de Grcia 41 t 934 880 139.
MonSat 10am7pm, Sun 10am2pm.
Free. Puig i Cadafalchs striking
Contents
Places
125
Casa Batll
Pg. de Grcia 43 t 932 160 306,
w www.casabatllo.es. Daily 9am2pm;
also open some afternoons until 8pm.
Visits to main/ground floors e10,
attic/roof e10, both e16. Perhaps
Contents
Places
126
inclusion of everyday objects
and symbols on the canvas. He
has also continually
experimented with unusual
materials, like oil paint mixed
with crushed marble, or
employing sand, cloth or straw
in his collages. Temporary
exhibitions focus on selections
of Tpies lifes work, while the
foundation also includes a
collection of works by other
contemporary artists.
Contents
Places
La Pedrera
Pg. de Grcia 92, entrance on
c/Provena t 902 400 973,
w www.caixacatalunya.es/obrasocial.
Daily 10am8pm. e7. La Pedrera de Nit
JuneAug only, Fri & Sat at 9.30pm,
e11, advance sales from TelEntrada
t 902 101 212, w www.telentrada.com.
127
PALAU ROBERT
Vinon
Entrances at Pg. de Grcia 96,
c/Provena 273 and c/Pau Claris 175
t 932 156 050, w www.vincon.com.
MonSat 10am2pm & 4.308.30pm.
Palau Robert
Pg. de Grcia 107 t 932 384 000,
w www.gencat.net/probert. MonSat
10am7pm, Sun 10am2.30pm. Free.
Contents
Places
128
Shops
Antonio Mir
C/Consell de Cent 349 t 934 870 670,
w www.antoniomiro.es; plus Groc,
Rambla de Catalunya 100 t 932 150
180. The showcase for Barcelonas
Armand Basi
Pg. de Grcia 49 t 932 151 421,
w www.armandbasi.com. Colourful
Casa Elizalde
C/de Valencia 302 t 934 880 590.
MonFri 58pm, Sat & Sun 11am2pm
& 58pm. The Dretas nicest
Mercat de la Concepci
Between c/de Valencia and c/dArag
t 934 575 329, w www.laconcepcio
.com. Mon 8am3pm, TuesFri
8am8pm, Sat 8am4pm; July & Aug
closes at 3pm. The early fifteenth-
Contents
Places
BD Ediciones de Diseo
C/Mallorca 291 t 934 586 909,
w www.bdlove.com. A design
Bulevard Rosa
Pg. de Grcia 55, entrances on Rambla
Catalunya, c/de Valencia and c/dArago
t 933 090 650, w www.bulevardrosa
.com. Barcelonas first shopping
129
dispensers, knives and forks to
bouncy chairs) at accessible
prices.
Colmado Quilez
Rambla de Catalunya 63 t 932 152
356. A classic Catalan grocery,
Dom
C/de Provena 249 t 934 871 181,
w www.id-dom.com. Original,
Joaqun Berao
Avant-garde jewellery by a
Madrid designer in a beautifully
presented shop.
Laie
C/Pau Claris 85 t 933 181 739,
w www.laie.es. The Eixamples
Mandarina Duck
Pg. de Grcia 44 t 932 720 364.
Mango
Pg. de Grcia 810 t 934 121 599 and
Pg. de Grcia 65 t 932 157 530, plus
others, w www.mango.com. Now
Muxart
C/Rossell 230 t 934 881 064, and
Rambla de Catalunya 47 t 934 677
423, w www.muxart.com. Barcelonas
Zara
Pg. de Grcia 16 t 933 187 675,
Rambla de Catalunya 67 t 932 160
868, plus others, w www.zara.com.
Contents
Places
130
Restaurants and
tapas bars
ba-ba-reeba
Pg. de Grcia 28 t 933 014 302. Daily
7.30am1.30am. A big range of
Bodegueta
Cafs
Valor
Rambla de Catalunya 46 t 934 876
246. MonThurs 8.30am1pm &
3.3011pm, FriSun 9ammidnight.
Contents
Places
Casa Calvet
C/de Casp 48 t 934 124 012.
MonSat 13.30pm & 8.3011.30pm.
Ciudad Condal
Rambla de Catalunya 18 t 933 181
997. Daily 7.30am1.30am. Breakfast
131
pastries, while the tapas
selection ranges far and wide:
patatas bravas to octopus.
Hotel Claris, c/Pau Claris 150 t 934
874 647. Daily 14pm & 811.30pm.
Japons
Ptge. de la Concepci 2 t 934 872
592, w www.grupotragaluz.com
/japones. MonThurs & Sun 1.304pm
& 8.30pmmidnight, Fri & Sat
1.304pm & 8pm1am. Designer
Contents
Places
Mussol
C/Arag 261 t 934 876 151; branch at
c/de Casp 19 t 933 017 610. Meals
daily 1pm1am. Big rustic diners
ONabo de Lugo
C/de Pau Claris 169 t 932 153 047.
MonSat 14pm & 8.30pmmidnight.
East 47
Muscleria
132
Thai Gardens
Tragaluz
Ptge. de la Concepci 5 t 934 870
621, w www.grupotragaluz.com
/tragaluz. Daily 1.304pm &
8.30pmmidnight, until 1pm ThursSat.
Bars
Cervesera Artesana
C/Sant Agusti 14 t 932 379 594,
w www.lacervesera.net. MonSat
6pm1am. Catalan brew-pub
Clubs
Tramoia
Mond Club
Contents
Places
133
Sagrada Famlia
C/Mallorca 401, entrance on c/de la
Marina t 932 073 031, w www
.sagradafamilia.org. Daily: AprilSept
9am8pm; OctMarch 9am6pm. e8,
or e11 including guided tour. The
Contents
Places
DE
CARRER
D E
L E P A N T
L A
C A R R E R
M
Mercat
de la 2
Sagrada
Famlia
M A L L O R C A
D E
PTGE. DE FONT
C A R R E R
PLAA
DE
GAUD
Sagrada
Famlia
C A R R E R
V A L E N C I A
D E
D I
A G
O N
A L
PTGE. DE BOFILL
CARRER D ARAGO
CARRER D ARAGO
DE
C ONS ELL
C ENT
CARRER
CARRER
PASSATGE DE BOCABELLA
C A R R E R
PASSATGE DE PAGES
PLACA DE
TETUAN
D E
L A
CARRER DE LA MARINA
DEL
DE
DE
C AR R ER
SARDENYA
ROGER
C A R R E R
PLACA
DE LA
SAGRADA
FA M I L I A
PTGE. DE MAIOL
D E
C A R R E R
PTGE. DE GAIOLA
P R O V E N A
D E
NAPOLS
DE
SANT
FLOR
JOAN
A V
3
I N
G U
D A
PTGE SIMO
C A R R E R
C A R R E R
DE
R O S S E L L O
SAGRADA FAMILIA
Casa
Macaya
PASSATGE DE TASSO
CARRER
PTGE
CORADINO
Jardins de la
Industria
D E
DE
PTGE.
DISCLE SOLER
N A P O L S
D E
D E L
PTGE
DE TORRES
C O R S E G A
D E
C A R R E R
S I C I L I A
D E
C A R R E R
MARIA CLARET
INDUS TR IA
C A R R E R
PTGE. DE
ROGER DE FLOR
LA
DE
G R A C I A
M A R I N A
PTGE.DE
LLAVALLOLL
GRASSO
R O G E R
CARRER
D E
DEN
F L O R
PA S S AT G E D A L I O
J O A N
S A N T
D E
P A S S E I G
C AR R ER
D E
PADILLA
SARDENYA
T R A V E S S
E R A
PASSEIG
MONUMENTAL
D I P U T A C I O
Plaza de
Toros &
Museo
Taurno
DE
C AS P
LEPANT
CA
RR
ER
DE
CARRER DE
C AR R ER
CARRER
PLAA TETUN
DE
G R A N V I A D E L E S C O R T S C ATA L A N E S
M
CARRER DE SICILIA
CARRER DE
BERGNES DE LAS CASAS
134
Contents
200 m
L Auditori
Places
RI
BE
135
CARRER DE SANT CAROLINA
CASTILLEJOS
R O G E N T
D E
C A R R E R
N
A
I
D
I
R
E
M
A
D
U
G
N
I
L
D E
E R
R R
C A
ER
DE
CU
LT O
LS
RS
CL
Parc del
Clot
LLAC UNA
DA
DI
LA
GU
Centre
Comercial Barcelona
Glries
AG
ON
AL
C ARRER
DE GRANADA
IN
Torre Agbar
CARRER DE LA CIUTAT
AV
C ARRER DE B ADAJOZ
G
EN
AV
Places
RR
ES
DE N
ER
RR GTO
S
CA SHIN
RO
WA
PE
CARRER D AVILA
A
N
IA
CARRER D ALABA
ID
O T
C L
V
C E N T
GLORIES
ER
CARRER DE PAMPLONA
A R A G O
D E
PLAA DE LES
GLRIES
CATALANES
CA
A
D
CONCA
SANT QUINTI
CARRER DE
X I F R E
C A R R E R
D E
INDEPENDENCIA
LA
DE
CARRER DE CARTAGENA
CARRER
CARRER
CARRER DE LOS CASTILLEJOS
PTGE. DE
JOANCASAS
CLOT
C A R R E R
CARRER DE BOLIVA
DEL
RER L
CAR BANYA
CA
PASSATAGE
DE CATALUNYA
PASSITAGE DE
ROURA
DE MAIG
PTGE. DE
ST.PAU
PTGE.
NUNA
DE
CARRER
LOS
E
D
CARRER DE PADILLA
O R AT
NAM
DE E
ER
CARR
D S
RER
CAR N CORT
NA
HER
CARRER DE ZAMORA
NYA
UNTA
LA M
ANS
CARRER DE VALENCIA
DEL LIU
RER NFE
CAR EL SA
ON
Contents
CAR
COR
NA
PISTO
ET
Teatre
Nacional
de
Catalunya
GO
RRE
C AR R ER DE B A S S OLS
ENCANTS
Els Encants
A D
IA
C. DEL
R
E VILA
TGE D
UD
PLACA
DE CAN
ROBECOLS
CA
MALLOR C A
DE
C AR R ER
ER DE
CARR
PASSA
PASSATGE DE
CENTELLES
C O N S E L L
D E L
ATGE
PASS LESOLA
G
D AN
P R O V E N A
D E
A
ER
GU
E R
PA
E S
F R
DE
I
AN
VEH
O
I
E R
LL
L J
R R
CO
DE
C A
DE
ER
ER
RR
RR
CA
CA
L
D E
LLAGOSTERA
PTGE.DE LON
AU
E P EZ
E.D ND
PTG RN
HE
ORATS
ENAM
C A R R E R
ING
ROSSELLO
CORSEGA
DE
CARRER
C. DE JOSEPA MASS
C A R R E R
PTGE. DE LA
INDEPENCIA
INDUS TR IA
LA
DE
C AR R ER
CARRER DE
DEL
CARRER
PASSATGE DEL
DOS DE MAIG
HOSPITAL DE
SANT PAU
DE
Hospital
de la
Creu
Roja
PTGE. DE CARSI
AV
PTGE. DE VALLS
PASSATGE DE
CORSEGA
CARTAGENA
PTGE.DE CANADELL
DE
CARRER
DEL TROBADOR
CARRER DE
PTGE
CASANOVAS
CARRER
Hospital de la
Santa Creu
i de Sant Pau
RE
PASSATGE DE FLAUGIER
136
Contents
Places
recognizable church
interior is starting to
take shape, and if you
take the elevator
(e2) up one of the
towers around the
rose window, youll
be rewarded by
partial views of the
city through an
extraordinary jumble
of latticed stonework,
ceramic decoration,
carved buttresses and
sculpture.Theres also
access to the crypt,
where a small
museum (opening times as for
the church) traces Gauds career
and the history of the church.
Models, sketches and
photographs help to make some
sense of the continuing project,
and you can view the sculptors
and model-makers at work.The
guided tours run hourly
between April and October,
reduced to four daily from
Friday to Monday between
November and March.
Domnech i Montaners
innovative public hospital
(190110) is possibly the one
building that can touch the
Sagrada Famlia for harmony,
size and invention. Craftsmen
adorned every inch with
sculpture, mosaics, stained glass
and ironwork, while much of
the actual business of running a
hospital was hidden away in
underground corridors, which
connect the buildings together.
The modernista hospital buildings
are now deemed to have served
their purpose; behind them
137
Casa Macaya
Pg. de Sant Joan 108. Just four
blocks from the Sagrada Famlia,
Josep Puig i Cadafalchs palatial
Casa Macaya (18981900) is a
superbly ornamental town
house with a Gothic-inspired
courtyard and canopied staircase
from which griffins spring. Its
rich in imaginative exterior
carvings by craftsman Eusebi
Arnau, who included an angel
holding a camera and a tiny
figure riding a bicycle among
the more orthodox medieval
symbols.The house is now in
use as an exhibition space.
ELS ENCANTS
Contents
Places
Els Encants
C/Dos de Maig t 932 463 030. Mon,
Wed, Fri & Sat 9am6pm; plus Dec
1Jan 5 Sun 9am3pm. An absolute
138
LAuditori
C/Lepant 150 t 932 479 300,
w www.auditori.org. Box office open
MonSat noon9pm, Sun 1hr before
concert. The citys main
Contents
Places
139
Shops
Centre Comercial Barcelona
Glries
Avgda. Diagonal 208, at Pl. de les
Glries Catalanes t 934 860 404,
w www.lesglories.com. Huge 230-
Cafs
Bar Gaud
Mercat de la Sagrada Famlia, c/de
Padilla 255; no phone. TuesThurs
7am2pm & 5.308.30pm, Fri
7am8.30pm, Sat 7am3pm. Only
Contents
Places
Restaurants and
tapas bars
Arco Iris
C/Roger de Flor 216 t 934 582 283.
MonSat 14pm; closed Aug. Simple
Gorra
C/de la Diputacio 421 t 932 451 164,
w www.restaurantegorria.com.
MonSat 13.30pm & 911.30pm;
closed Aug. This elegant family-
Piazzenza
Avgda. Gaud 2729 t 934 363 817.
Daily 1pm1am; closed 2 weeks in
Aug. A reliable standby just five
140
Esquerra de lEixample
The long streets west of Rambla de Catalunya as far as
Barcelona Sants train station making up the Esquerra
de lEixample are perhaps the least visited on any city
sightseeing trip. With all the major architectural highlights found on the Eixamples eastern (or right-hand)
side, the Esquerra (left-hand side) was intended by its
nineteenth-century planners for public buildings and
institutions, many of which still stand. However, the
Esquerra does have its moments of interest not least
in an eye-catching public park or two while its here
that some of the citys best bars and clubs are found,
particularly in the gay-friendly streets of the so-called
Gaixample district, near the university.
Universitat de Barcelona
Escola Industrial
Museu i Centre
dEstudis de lEsport
C/de Buenos Aires 5658 t 934
192 232. MonFri 10am2pm &
48pm. Free. Built as the
Contents
Places
A
RT
C DE TARRAGONA
GUSTA
CARRER DE VALENCIA
10
A
12
14
15
13
16
PLAA DE
DOCTOR
LEFAMENDI
17
PASSEIG DE
18 GRCIA
PLAA DE LA
M
Altair
UNIVERSITAT 19
M
RON
M
DA U 20
NIVE
UNIVERSITAT
RSIT
AT
PTGE CAMPS
VIA A
U
PROVENA
PTGE
DOMINGO
CARRER DE NICARAGUA
CARRER DE NUMANCIA
R TRIADO
RAMBLA DE CATALUNYA
BE
CARRER DE LA DIPUTACIO
ROM
Pilma
CARRER DE CORSEGA
CARRER DE BALMES
DEL RECTO
C PROVENA
CARRER D'ARIBAU
11
DE
CARRER CASANOVA
CARRE
R
8
9
CARRER DE MALLORCA
DA
CARRER D'ARAGO
AL
21
Filmoteca
Avgda. de Sarri 33 t 934 107 590,
w http://cultura.gencat.es/filmo. Run
Contents
Places
Dietrich
Dry Martini
Fira
La Boite
Luz de Gas
13
4
6
1
2
RS
LE
AL
ST
EL
CD
CARRER DE FLORIDABLANCACARRER
CB
P
DE
Cas
Cas
Mo
El
In
M
ERG
PLAA DE
ACATALUNYA
RA
Metro El 21
Triangle14
Oui Caf
Las Rambla
Punto BCN 12
Quilombo
3
Sante Caf 5
M
ON
Urbana
CARRER DE BALMES
Hospital
Clinic 7
NGU
AG
HOSPITAL
CLINIC
CARRER DE MALLORCA
AVI
DI
D E PAR IS
CARRER DE MUNTANER
CO
M
ESPANYA
Casa
Papallona
C AR R ER
CARRER DE VILLARROEL
EU
Parc
Joan
Mir
CARRER D'ENTENA
CR
PLAA
D'ESPANYA
Pilma
TARRAGONA
C SA
M
NT N
ICOLAU
CARRER DE PROVENA
CARRER DE CALABRIA
Parc de
lEspanya
Industrial
C DE LLANCA
C MALLORCA
C
DELISI
ENTENA
CARRER DE ROCAFORT
TONI
DE C OR S EGA
CARRER D'ENTENA
C SANT AN
J
DE C AR R ER
R Preso
CA Model
SANTSESTACI
PLAA
PASOS
CATALANS
R
RE
GU
CARRER D'ARIBAU
Barcelona
Sants M
OS
CARRER DE MUNTANER
REN
YO
MEL
CIOR
DE PA
LAU
CARRER CASANOVA
ROB
IN
Museu Centre D A
AS
LL
DE C AR R ER DE LONDR ES dEstudis de lEsport
A
R
Escola
AR
Industrial
PT
CARRER DE VILADOMAT
C DE
C DE
BERLI
N
AV
CARRER
DE TUSET
Filmoteca
CAR
RER
DE
GRACIA LEspai de
Dansa i Msica
Camper
JeanPierre Bua
CARRER
DE BALMAS
300 m
RIA
AR
ES
AD
UD
ING
AV
PLAA DE LA
LLIBERTAT
TRAVESSERA DE
C AR RER GR AN DE
141
IA CU BI
PLAA
FRANCESC
MACIA 1
142
Les Arenes
Pl. dEspanya. The traditional
bullring backing Parc Joan Mir
is undergoing a massive Richard
Rogers-inspired refit, to convert
it into a leisure and retail
complex with enormous roof
terrace, while retaining the
circular Moorish facade of 1900.
To the side of the bullring, on
BARCELONA SANTS TRAIN STATION
Contents
Places
Shops
Altair
Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 616
t 933 427 171, w www.altair.es.
Camper
C/Muntaner 248 t 932 013 188, and
others, w www.camper.com. Spains
Jean-Pierre Bua
Avgda. Diagonal 469 t 934 397 100,
w www.jeanpierrebua.com. The citys
143
Pilma
Urbana
Cata 181
Restaurants and
tapas bars
LAtzavara
C/Muntaner 109 t 934 545 925.
MonSat 14pm. Lunch-only spot
Barrils
C/dAribau 89 t 934 531 091. Daily
9am2am; closed Tues, and first two
weeks in July. Hanging hams and
Berriketa
Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 596
t 933 424 144. Daily 8am1am.
Contents
Places
Cubanito
C/Casanova 70 t 934 543 188.
TuesFri 14.30pm & 8.30pm1am,
Sat & Sun 8.30pm1am; closed lunch
in Aug. Fresh and funky
Flauta
C/dAribau 23 t 933 237 038.
MonSat 8am1am. Bar at the
144
Fresc Co.
Oui Caf
C/Consell de Cent 247 t 934 514 570.
MonThurs & Sun 5pm2am, Fri & Sat
5pm3am. A gay meet-and-greet
Bars
Aire Sala Diana
C/de Valencia 236 t 934 515 812.
ThursSat 11.30pm3am, Sun
610pm. The hottest, most stylish
Dietrich
C/Consell de Cent 255 t 934 517 707.
MonThurs 10pm2.30am, FriSun
10pm3am. Cornerstone of the
DIETRICH BAR
Dry Martini
Punto BCN
Quilombo
Fira
Contents
Places
145
and a clientele that joins in
enthusiastically.
Sante Caf
La Boite
Clubs
Luz de Gas
Antilla Barcelona
C/Arag 141143 t 934 514 564,
w www.antillasalsa.com. Daily
10.30pm5am, weekends until 6am.
Arena Madre
Metro
Contents
Places
146
Mercat de la Llibertat
Pl. de la Libertat t 932 170 995. Mon
8am3pm, TuesThurs 8am2pm &
58pm, Fri 7am8pm, Sat 7am3pm;
closed afternoons in Aug. Many of
Casa Vicens
C/de les Carolines 24. No public
access. Antoni Gauds first
Contents
Places
147
GO
NA
RUIS I
TAULET
Parc Gell
C/dOlot. Daily: March & Oct
10am7pm; April & Sept 10am8pm;
Places
RDI
C DE VE
6
C DE LA PERLA
ERIES
ERC
C LARRARD
MUNTA
NYA
AV S J
EDE
DE M
MARE
DE
EDE
DEU SALUT
7
C BRUNQUER
ACI
LLUIS
PLAA DE LA
VIRREINA 4
AT
ERC
BLA
JOANIC
CP
C DE RAMON
Y CAJAL M
TR AV E SS E R A D E
G R CI A
C DE PUIG
MARTI
IIM
AR
GA
LL
C DILUVI
CARRER BONAVISTA
AD
ED
ALT
RDE
NE
R
C TORRIJO
11 12
PLACA 14
16
PLAA
DEL SOL
C MASPONS
Contribucions
Plaa de la Virreina
C DE GUILL
MONTSEN
TORRENT DE L'OLL
A
C GR
C DEL
UG
EM
RAM
AL
DE
C
INA
ENT
L M I L IT A R
AV HO SP
I TA
I CA A
RG
AN D
E GRCIA
ST M
T SANT
ANTONI
C GRAN DE GRCIA
ANTUNEZ
C MATEU
C D'AST
URIES
Camisera
Pons
13
C LUIS
M SERR
AHIMA
C DE
BETLEM
CAROLINE
S
C PERE SERAFI
C DE BERGA
C DE BENET MERCADE
A UG US TA
PRAT
Contents
A V D E L A RE PU
BL
AGI
VALLIRANA
A
D
CEP
P R IN
AV
NADA
VIA
C J ROMEA
C DE LA GRA
15 DEL PENEDES
CD
LL
C TORDERA
250 m
L
C DE LA
C MONISTRO
C DEL PEROL
AILEN
C D E LONDR E S
10
EL
NT MIQU
DE SA
AD
IA
Mercat
de la
Llibertat
IE
FONTANA
A
RIER
UD
C DE TUSET
ER A DE GR C
IA
GRCIA
C DE NEPTU
CUBI
UR
Casa
Vicens
RAMBLA DEL
ST
C LES
E LA
CD
ING
C D'ALFONS XII
C DE MARIA
C A R R E R D E B A L M ES
JA
C DE
C DE
C LINCOLN
CARRER D'OLOT
TE
LESCO
RI
RA
RT
BE
U
IT
DE
US
ER
RR
DE
CA
UREL
CA
C TAVERN
AR
EM
CD
C DE SANTAL
C DE GUILLEM TELL
TA
TRAV
ESS
ER
C DE CA
LESSEPS
OR
TC
PLAA DE
LESSEPS
DA
IT
SANT GERVASI
T RA VE SS
GU
N
D'ATE
C DE LA FRANCOLI
C DE L'AVEN
IR
Casa Museu
Gaud
RA
GLRIA
C DE
ALBIGESLS
OS
AN
NE
BDA DE
LA
Parc Gell
CIPIO
CARRER D'ES
CARRER DE BALLESTER
Street
Escalator
ES
LG
E
MA
AMUNT
RE
C DE LA FOR
OLA
CD
ER
DE
C D'AGR
OR
NAC
NEGILD
HERME
ELIES
C DELS MADRAZO
RIG
DEL P
R
CAR
DA
PADUA
C DE PADUA
US
FA
AV
C DEL
RON
VIA AU
G
LA
ES
PUTXET
C DE STE
C DE SANT
MUNTANER
AV
M
VALLCARCA
EL
COLL
IN
C BERL
CB
EUDALD
148
Casa Museu Gaud
Parc Gell t 932 193 811. Daily:
AprilSept 10am8pm; OctMarch
10am6pm. e4. One of Gauds
collaborators, Francesc
Berenguer, designed and built a
turreted house within Parc
Gell for the architect (though
he only lived in it
intermittently).This now
contains a diverting collection
of some of the furniture Gaud
designed for other projects a
typical mixture of wild
originality and brilliant
engineering as well as plans
and objects related to the park
and to Gauds life.
Contents
Places
Shops
Camisera Pons
C/Gran de Grcia 49 t 932 177 292.
149
Modernista shirt shop
transformed into a showcase for
Spanish fashion designers.
C/Riera de Sant Miquel 30 t 932 187
140. Grcias well-known
Cafs
Caf del Sol
Pl. del Sol 16 t 934 155 663. Daily
1pm2.30am. This hugely popular
Mos
Via Augusta 112 t 932 371 313. Daily
7am10pm. Self-service, designer
Flash, Flash
C/de la Granada del Peneds 25 t 932
370 990. Daily 1pm1.30am, bar open
11am2am. Tortillas (most around
Glop
C/Sant Llus 24 t 932 137 058.
TuesSun 14pm & 8pm1am. The
Habibi
C/Gran de Grcia 7 t 932 179 545.
MonFri 1pm1am, Sat 24.30pm &
8pm1am. Bright and breezy
Illa de Grcia
C/Sant Domnec 19 t 932 380 229.
TuesFri 14pm & 9pmmidnight, Sat
Contents
Places
Contribucions
Restaurants and
tapas bars
150
Miria
Pl. Rius i Taulet 11 t 932 185 198.
Daily 14pm & 711pm. The sunny
Nou Candanchu
Pl. Rius i Taulet 9 t 932 377 362. Mon,
Wed, Thurs & Sun 7am1am, Fri & Sat
until 3am. Sit beneath the clock
Contents
Places
Octubre
C/Julian Romea 18 t 932 182 518.
MonFri 1.303.30pm & 911pm, Sat
911pm; closed Aug. For romance
Roble
C/Luis Antunez 7 t 932 187 387.
MonSat 7ammidnight. The
151
Salambo
Bars
Canig
run neighbourhood bar now
entering its third generation. Its
not much to look at, but its a
friendly spot, packed out at
weekends with a young, hip and
largely local crowd meeting to
chew the fat.
Casa Quimet
Rambla del Prat 9 t 932 175 327.
TuesSun 6.30pm2am; closed Aug.
neighbourhood drink-and-meet
spot.The pre- and post-cinema
crowd pops in for cafetires of
coffee, sandwiches and meals,
and there are lots of wines and
cava by the glass. Upstairs, you
can shoot pool.
Virreina Bar
Pl. de la Virreina 1 t 932 379 880.
MonThurs & Sun 10am1pm, Fri &
Sat 10am2am. Popular local bar
Clubs
Centre Artes Tradicionrius
Trav. de Sant Antoni 68 t 932 184
485, w www.tradicionarius.com. Folk
Otto Zutz
C/de Lincoln 15 t 932 380 722,
w www.grupo-ottozutz.com. TuesSat
midnight6am. Still one of the
VIRREINA BAR
Contents
Places
152
Contents
Places
153
Museu del Futbol
Contents
Places
Museu de Cermica
Avgda. Diagonal 686 t 932 801 621,
w www.museuceramica.bcn.es.
TuesSat 10am6pm, Sun 10am3pm.
e3.50, free on first Sun of the month;
ticket also valid for Museu de les Arts
Decoratives and Museu Textil i
dIndumentria in La Ribera. The
RESTAURANTS
AND TAPAS
Bar Toms
1
Gimlet
6
Mas i Mas
7
Tres Torres 2
Universal
5
Parc
Castell de
LOroreta
DEO
C . DE
L MO N TE
Museu
de les Arts
Decoratives
Palau Reial
de Pedralbes
M
PALAU REIAL
AN
C.
DE
I
H I
C
CARR
DE C A
RDEN
AL VIVE
ER D E
S A N TA
PA
SS
D OS L
RE R
S TUTO
CA RR ER
CAR
C.DELS
CAPON
ATE
D E ID
R
D E
EI
G
AM L IA
DE
L
AN
UE
L
GI
RO
NA
PL. DE
PIUS XII
ME
ND
EZ
PE
Cementiri
de les Corts
LA
YO
AV
MARIA
IN
G U CRISTINA
DA M
I
II
III
ES
RL
CA
PLAA DE
LA REINA
MARIA CRISTINA
DI
AG
ON
AL
C.
DE
MA
RT
I
FR
Parc
Bederrida
QU
DI
AG
ON
AL
MONTEC.
ROLS
A V. D E P E D R A L B
ES
Finca
Giell
C. DE
SETANTI
D EL RI
U
SS
PA
AV
IN
GU
DA
Cermica
CA RR ER
DE
C A R R E R
EI
E LS TIL
G D
PEDRALBES
DE MULHACN
EULALIA DA
NZIZU
C
A
R
R
E
R
PLACA
DEUSEBI GUELL
D
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L
ER S
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D
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Museu
IR
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de
REINA
REIN
CAVALLERS
A
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CAR
RE R DE
SOR
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A
DR
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P
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DELS
PEDRALBES
DE
CARRER
CAVALLERS
AV.
CARRER
DEL
D E S P L U G U E S
UE
RQ
DEL S
PL. DE
JAUME II
CARRER
EO
PL. DEL
MONESTIR
CENTERAL DEL MONESTIR
Monestir de
Pedralbes
CTRA.
VID
C. D E L M O N TE V
I
Col. lecci
Thyssen
Bornemisza
C . J O S EP V . F O I X
CLUBS
Bikini
4
Cova del Drac Jazzroom
3
UDA D
A VIN G
Camp Nou
(FC Barcelona)
IA
L E S
C O R T S
CA
D E
T R A V E S S
E R A
RL
ES
II
I
VI
A
154
Contents
500 m
Places
T R A V E S
S E R A
C A R
R E R
D E
L E S
C O R
T S
D E L
155
PAS
SEI G
CARRE
R
R
M U N TA N E R
SANTOL
JO
DE
CARRER
MUNTANER
CARRER DE
SANTOL
CALVET
DAMIG
CARRER DE
CALAF
ER
IA
CUB 6
DE I
AVEN
M U N TA N E R
CARR
IR
DE
R E LA
FOR
C MAR 5
IA
TR AV ESS E R A D E
GRCI
CARRER
PLAA DE
FRANCESC
MACI
CARRE
CARRER
C O R
T S
Janina
L E S
DE
CA
RR
ER
DE
GA
ND
UX
ER
Tur
Parc
E
A V. D
SALS
PAU CA
DI
AG
ON
AL
LL
CARRER
DE
CA
RR
ER
FO
NT
ES
TA
SEBASTIAN BACH
CARRER
LES P
IES
E LES
ESCO
D
C.
DE
GA
ND
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L M
IT R
OR
CT
DO
CAR
L
DE
C.
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SA
CARR
BO
RI
MAND
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PIES
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CAR
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CAR
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FL
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S
CASA
C. DE
LA NE
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CARRER DE CA
STELLNOU
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C. DE LA
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AV
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C. DE JOHA
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de les
Teresianes
LES TRES
TORRES
ROSAI
CARRER D
E BUGA
PLAA DE
S JOS D
E
PRAT DE
LA RIBA
RON
L Illa
DOC
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CAR
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CAR
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CARRER DE
Sant
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GEN C. DEL
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VIVE
S PL. DE
BANET
XV
Contents
Places
156
1710: one showing a
Madrid bullfight, the
other the feasting
and dancing taking
place at a party
centred on the craze
of the period hotchocolate-drinking.
Finca Gell
Avgda. de Pedralbes 77. mPalau Reial.
Contents
Places
Monestir de Pedralbes
Bxda del Monestir t 932 039 282,
w www.museuhistoria.bcn.es.
TuesSun 10am2pm. e4,
combination ticket with Col.lecci
Thyssen-Bornemisza e5.50, free on
first Sun of the month. mPalau Reial
and 20min walk, or 30min ride on bus
#22 from Plaa de Catalunya/Passeig
de Grcia or #64 Ronda Sant Antoni
and c/dAribau. Founded in 1326
157
paintings, mostly of Madonna
and Child, of which the
undoubted highlight is the
sublime Madonna of Humility by
Fra Angelico, painted in 1433.
The mainly Italian collection is
offset by a group of works from
the Flemish and German
schools, most important of
which are the dark, sombre
depictions of saints by Cranach
the Elder, which stand in sharp
contrast to the exuberance of
the Italian works of the same
period. St George, a popular
subject for Catalans, whose
patron saint he is, is presented
here as the all-conquering hero
albeit standing over the
puniest dragon imaginable.
Sarri
FGC Sarri c/Mare de Deu de Nria
exit, or bus #64 from Pl. Universitat or
Pedralbes. Sarris narrow traffic-
Col.lecci ThyssenBornemisza
Monestir de Pedralbes, Bxda del
Monestir t 934 811 041,
w www.museothyssen.org. TuesSun
10am2pm. e3.50, combination ticket
with Monestir de Pedralbes e5.50, free
on first Sun of the month. A small
Contents
Places
158
runs downhill from here, past
other surviving old-town
squares, prettiest of which is
Plaa Sant Vicen (off
c/Mae i Flaquer), where theres
a statue of the saint and a nice
little sandwich caf-bar, the Can
Pau (closed weekends).You also
must not miss the Bar Toms (see
below), just around the corner
on c/Major de Sarri, for the
worlds best patatas bravas.
Shops
LIlla
Avgda. Diagonal 555559 t 934 440
000, w www.lilla.com. The landmark
Avinguda Diagonal
The uptown section of
Avinguda Diagonal runs
through the heart of Barcelonas
flashest business and shopping
district.Typical of the
enterprises here is LIlla, the
giant shopping centre (see
opposite), whose 340-metrelong facade flanks the avenue
the stepped design is a prone
echo of New Yorks Rockefeller
Center. Smaller designer fashion
stores are ubiquitous,
PEDRALBES CHURCH
Janina
Avgda. Pau Casals 8 t 932 020
693. Barcelonas premier
Restaurants
and tapas
bars
Bar Toms
C/Major de Sarri 49 t 932 031
077. Daily except Wed
8am10pm. The house
Contents
Places
159
Bars
Clubs
Gimlet
C/Santal 46 t 932 015 306. Daily
7.30pm2.30am. Especially
Mas i Mas
C/Mari Cub 199 t 932 094 502,
w www.masimas.com. MonThurs &
Sun 7pm2.30am, Fri & Sat 7pm3am.
Tres Torres
Via Augusta 300 t 932 051 608.
MonSat 7pm3am. Large terrassa-
Contents
Universal
Places
Bikini
C/Deu i Mata 105 t 933 220 005,
w www.bikinibcn.com. TuesSat
midnight5am. Not only regular
160
Parc dAtraccions
Pl. del Tibidabo t 932 117 942,
w www.tibidabo.es. Mid-June to midSept daily noon10pm, until 11pm at
weekends; mid-Sept to mid-June Sat &
Sun only noon6pm. All rides e22,
restricted rides e11, plus
family/discount tickets. The
Getting to Tibidabo
Reaching the heights of Tibidabo is half the fun, since youll need to combine several forms of transport. First, take the FGC train (line 7) from Plaa de Catalunya
station to Avinguda Tibidabo (the last stop). Emerging from the station escalators,
cross the road to the tram/bus shelter at the bottom of the tree-lined avenue. The
Tramvia Blau, an antique tram service (mid-June to mid-Sept daily 10am8pm;
rest of year weekends & hols 10am6pm; departures every 1530min; e2 oneway, e2.90 return) then runs you up the hill to Plaa Doctor Andreu; theres a bus
service instead out of season during the week. Here, you change to the Funicular
del Tibidabo, which has regular connections to Tibidabo at the top (operates
when the Parc dAtraccions is open; e2 one-way, e3 return). If the funicular isnt
running, take a taxi from Avinguda Tibidabo instead, which will cost about e8 to
Tibidabo. Alternatively, the special Tibibus runs direct to Tibidabo from Plaa de
Catalunya, outside El Corte Ingls (weekends & hols year round every 30min; plus
weekdays in summer hourly; e2). For details of public transport, call t010 or
check out wwww.tmb.net.
Contents
Places
161
with a noisy correfoc, a theatrical
fireworks display.
Sagrat Cor
PLACES Tibidabo and Parc del Collserola
Torre de Collserola
BARS
Danzatoria 2
1
Mirablau
1 km
Parc
de Collserola
BAIXADA DE
VALLVIDRERA
Centre
i dInformaci Font de la
Sagrat Cor
Budellera
Torre de
Collserola
VAL LV I D R E R A
C T R A V A L LVI D R E R A
A
Funicular de
Vallvidrera
T I BID A BO
Parc
d'Atraccions
Munde
Funicular
del Tibidabo
PA
SS
TIBID A BO
1 PL DR ANDREU
Museu de
la Cincia
TRAMVIA BLAU
D A DE DA LT
AV TIBIDABO
VAS I
ER
PL DE
J F KENNEDY
AN
T
RON
Monestir
de Pedralbes
PG S
VALLCARCA
OVA
PASSEIG DE LA BONAN
VIA
Sarri
Places
E N ER
AL MITRE
Contents
AU
PEDR AL B E S
162
Norman Fosters soaring
communications tower. High
above the tree line, this features
a glass lift that whisks you up
ten floors (115m) for extensive
views 70km, they claim, on a
good day.
MUSEU DE LA CINCIA
Contents
Places
Museu de la Cincia
C/Teodor Roviralta 4751 t 903 223
040 or 932 126 050, w www
.nuevomuseodelaciencia.com. TuesSun
10am8pm. ADmission charged. The
163
Bars
Mirablau
Danzatoria
Contents
Places
MIRABLAU BAR
164
Montserrat PLACES
Montserrat
The mountain of Montserrat, with its weirdly shaped
rock crags, vast monastery and hermitage caves,
stands just 40km northwest of Barcelona. Its the most
popular day-trip from the city, reached in around ninety
minutes by train and then cable car or rack railway for
a thrilling ride up to the monastery. Once there, you can
visit the basilica and monastery buildings and complete
your day with a walk around the woods and crags,
using the two funicular railways that depart from the
monastery complex.
Aeri de Montserrat
Montserrat Aeri t 932 051 515,
w www.fgc.net. Departures every 15min,
daily 9.25am1.45pm & 2.206.45pm.
e12 return from Barcelona. For the
Cremallera de Montserrat
Monistrol de Montserrat t 902 312
020, w www.cremallerademontserrat
.com. Departures every 20min1hr,
daily 7.22am-6.38/8.38pm (most
frequent, and later, services at
AERI DE MONTSERRAT
Getting to Montserrat
To reach the Montserrat cable-car/rack-railway stations, take the FGC train (line
R5, direction Manresa), which leaves daily from Plaa dEspanya (mEspanya) at
hourly intervals from 8.36am. You can buy through-transport tickets at Plaa
dEspanya (e12 return), while two combination tickets are also available: the
Transmontserrat (e21), which includes all transport services, including unlimited use of the mountain funiculars; and the Totmontserrat (e34.50), which
includes the same, plus monastery museum entry and a cafeteria lunch. Bus tours
from the city (around e40; ask at any tourist office) also run to the monastery, but
these cant compete for thrills with the do-it-yourself train and aerial rides.
Contents
Places
165
weekends MarchOct, plus JulySept).
e12 return from Barcelona. The
Monestir de Montserrat
Information office t 938 777 701,
w www.abadiamontserrat.net. Daily
9am5.45pm, JulySept until 7pm.
Walking maps and accommodation
To B
arc
To
M
Riu
elon
bregat
Llo
an
C RE
Monestir
de Montserrat
N
DE MO
RA
ALL
E
SE
Manresa
Sant Cugat
del Valls
RRA
Montserrat
Terrassa
Sabadell
Sant Sadurn
dAnoia
BARCELONA
Contents
Places
NT
FU N
IC U
LA R
SA
Monistrol-Vila
CO
AERI
VA
DE M
ONT
SERR
AT
sa
re
Montserrat
Aeri
Monistrol de
Montserrat
FU
N
SA ICUL
NT
A
JO R
AN
PLACES Montserrat
Montserrat PLACES
166
MONESTIR DE MONTSERRAT
Baslica
Daily 810.30am & noon6.30pm.
Free. Of the religious buildings,
Contents
Places
167
Museu de Montserrat
MonFri 10am6.45pm, Sat & Sun
9.30am7.45pm. e5.50. Near the
Mountain walks
Funicular departures every 20min, daily
10am6pm, weekends only
OctMarch. Santa Cova e2.50 return,
Sant Joan e6.10 return, combination
ticket e6.90. Following the
Contents
Places
PLACES Montserrat
168
Sitges PLACES
Sitges
The seaside town of Sitges, 36km south of Barcelona,
is definitely the highlight of the local coast the great
weekend escape for young Barcelonans, who have created a resort very much in their own image. Its also a
noted gay holiday destination, with an outrageous
annual Carnival (Feb/March) and a summer nightlife to
match. During the heat of the day, though, the tempo
drops as everyone hits the beach, while out of season
Sitges is delightful: far less crowded, and with a temperate climate that encourages promenade strolls and
old-town exploration.
The beaches
There are clean sands
either side of the old
town headland, though
these become
extremely crowded in
high season. For more
space its best to keep
walking west from
Passeig de la Ribera
along the palm-lined
promenade of Passeig
Martim, past a series
of eight interlinked
beaches that runs a couple of
kilometres down the coast as far
as the Hotel Terramar.There are
breakwaters, beach bars,
restaurants, showers and
watersports facilities along the
way, with the more notorious
BEACH AT SITGES
Sitges information
Trains to Sitges (e2.25 each way) leave Passeig de Grcia or Barcelona Sants stations every twenty minutes, more frequently at peak times (destination Vilanova/St
Vicen), and its a thirty- to forty-minute ride depending on the service.
The towns Oficina Turisme (c/Sinia Morera 1, at Oasis shopping centre t938
945 004, w www.sitges.com; JulySept daily 9am9pm; OctJune MonFri
9am2pm & 46.30pm) is five minutes walk from the train station. From here you
can pick up useful restaurant and accommodation lists, and theres bike rental from
Sitges Bike (t938 949 458, wwww.sitgesbike.com; from e16 a day), located
around the corner in Shop (Local) 34 of the Oasis shopping centre.
A combination ticket (e5.40, valid one month) is available for all three museums note that Monday isnt the best day to come, as the museums and many
restaurants are closed.
Contents
Places
C AIG
PAU
TA
C
U
NO
RR
ER
PG DE VILAFRANCA
RE
R
Platja
de la
Fragata
CA
BE
RA
10
RI
AL
UA
US
CS
C SANTIAGO RUSINOL
TD
AM
IA
TA
VID
JO
MA
CA
RR
ER B C
AR PA
RA U
CA
BE
RR
ITG
ER
ST PERE
ER ST
C AR R
CARRER
E
RR
CA
NG
EL
PLACES Sitges
JES
ART
C ARR ER RAFA EL LLOP
IA
ST SE B A S T
CA RR ER
CA
RR
ER
A
R
CARRE
CARRER BON
AIRE
EU
C JOAN
5
GRE
C PORT ALE
Mercat
Vell
CD
PLAA
AJUNTAMENT
Platja
St. Sabasti
DA
LA
AL
EV
Taller Antic
NOL
LAR
Museu
Cau Ferrat
Museu
Palau Maricel
Esglesia Maricel
Parroquial
PLAA
DEl
BALUARD
PL. M
UTRILLO
MORLIUS
C FO
BARCELONA
0
200 m
C M MONTROIG
AN
A
F GUM
BA
C 1er DE MAIG
LL
U
E C
A D
ST IS IDR E
ER
R
AR
CYD
LA
PLAA
HOSPITAL C HOSPITA
L
CARRE
ILL
DE
Platja
de la
Ribera
ER
SC
PASS EIG
CA RR ER
OM
RS
PLAA
E MARISTANY
PLAA
CAPDE LA
VILA
FLO
RR
LES
CA
C STA TECLA
CE
PLAA C J TIARRIDA
INDUSTRIA
ADE
G
AN
ELL
NT
CI
RT
PA R
Oscar
SA
EN
BA
D
AU
FR
Museu
CA R R E Romantic
R DE
ST
RA
TU
EN
AV
EN 1
BU
ST
T
CS
ER
ER
ER
ER
TT
RR
A
PANY
CARRER ES
ONI
R ST ANT
CARRE
RR
PA
DE
Train
Station
RR
CA
PLAA
ESPANYA
ES
DA
AV A R T U R C A RB O NE L L
CA
I
CARRER
AUD
A G
ST
AB
AB
AR
A
GU
Mercat
Municipal
CA
VI LA NO VA
PA SS EI G DE
IN
PE
MO
AV
CA
CAR
R
RE
INI A
Bike
Rental
SEF
JO
NT
SA
ER
RR
CA
CA
RR
ER
Oficina Turisme i
R OLIVELLA
C SALVADO
PIS
169
Sitges
Castelldefels
Esglsia Parroquial
Contents
Places
170
10am1.30pm & 36.30pm, Sat
10am7pm, Sun 10am3pm. e3,
access by guided tour only every hour.
Sitges PLACES
Mercat Municipal
Avgda. Artur Carbonell t 938 940 466.
MonThurs 8am2pm, Fri & Sat
8am2pm & 5.308.30pm. The
ESGLSIA PARROQUIAL
Shops
CyD
C/Major 60. Mens designer shirts
in limited-edition styles classic
whites to vibrant colours.
Oscar
Pl. de lIndustria 2. Closed Mon.
Taller Antic
C/Fonollar. A treasure trove of Art
Cafs
Museu Romntic
Al Fresco
Contents
Places
171
menu (e20) that changes every
couple of days and offers four
courses of the best in Asian
Med fusion food. Breakfast and
gourmet sandwiches are
available until 4pm, an open-air
terrace adds a touch of seaside
romance, while after-beach
happy hour cocktails are served
daily (48pm).
Celler Vell
C/Sant Buenaventura 21 t 938 111
961. Mon 14pm & 811pm, Tues
14pm, ThursSun 14pm & 811pm.
Fragata
Pg. de la Ribera 1 t 938 941 086.
Daily 14pm & 811pm. Typical of
SITGES MANSION
Chiringuito
Pg. de la Ribera t 938 947 596. Daily
10am10pm, reduced hours in winter.
Restaurants and
tapas bars
Beach House
C/Sant Pau 34 t 938 949 029,
w www.beachhousesitges.com.
EasterNov only, daily 9am2am. The
Contents
Places
Izarra
C/Major 22 t 938 947 370. Daily
1.304pm & 8.3011pm. Pint-sized
Pinta
Pg. de la Ribera 5859 t 938 947 871.
Daily 14pm & 8pmmidnight. The
PLACES Sitges
Sitges PLACES
172
e10, though a full meal
including drinks can be had for
around e30.The promenadeview terrace fills quickly at
lunchtime.
Vikingos
C/Marqus de Montroig 79 t 938 949
687, w www.losvikingos.com.
MonThurs & Sun 11am1am, Fri &
Sat 11am2am. Long-standing
Parrots Pub
Voramar
Bars
bar scene in Sitges.Take a seat
under the plastic raffia parasols
and watch the parade, or check
with the locals on the current
club scene.
PARROTS PUB
Contents
Places
Accommodation
Contents
Accommodation
Contents
Accommodation
175
Hotels
in winter (Nov, Jan & Feb), or
for longer stays, while the larger
hotels often have special rates in
August (when business travel is
scarce) or at weekends.
Breakfast isnt usually included
(even in very expensive places),
unless specifically stated in the
reviews. Credit cards are
accepted almost everywhere,
even in very modest places
(though American Express isnt
always).Theres a lot of street
noise in Barcelona, so bring earplugs if youre at all concerned.
On the Ramblas
Benidorm Ramblas 37 t 933 022 054.
Refurbished rooms opposite Plaa Reial that
offer real value for money, hence the tribes
of young tourists. Rooms available for one
to five people, all with bathtubs and showers, and a Ramblas view if youre lucky (and
prepared to pay a bit more). From e45.
Reservation agencies
You can book accommodation at the tourist offices (Turisme de Barcelona,
see below), but only in person on the day or online they do not have an
advance telephone reservation service. Alternatively, contact one of the
reservation agencies listed below. As well as finding hotels, some specialize
in apartment rentals (starting at around e70100 a night for a studio sleeping two), but make sure you understand all the costs seasonal premiums,
cleaning charges, utility bills and taxes can all push up the headline figure.
Barcelona Apartment Rentals UK t0117/907 3486, wwww
.barcelonaapartmentrentals.co.uk. A small range of quality apartments, mainly
in the Eixample (some near the Sagrada Famlia) and Grcia.
Barcelona On-Line Barcelona t902 887 017 or 933 437 993,
wwww.barcelona-on-line.es. Commission-free reservations for hotels, pensions and apartments.
My Favourite Things Barcelona t933 295 351 or 637 265 405,
wwww.myft.net. Has an eye for unusual and offbeat accommodation, from
boutique hotels to private bed and breakfasts.
Turisme de Barcelona Offices in Barcelona at Pl. de Catalunya; Pl. de Sant
Jaume; Barcelona Sants; Barcelona Airport t807 117 222, from abroad t932
853 1833, wwww.barcelonaturisme.com. Same-day, commission-free accommodation bookings, in person, by phone, or on the website.
Contents
Accommodation
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
S
BLA
RAM
PASSEIG DE GRACIA
DE
IN
I A LS
O LL
A / M
LATA
LA P
M O LL
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PORT VELL
Estaci
Martima
IMAX
M O LL
R C EL
DE BA
Torre
Jaume I
ONA
37
L'Aqurium
Maremgnum
World Trade
Centre
200 m
M
Contents
C DELS C OMTES
CAR
DE LRER DEL
A V IC D U C
TO R I A
CA
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R
DE
LP
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AV DE LA
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L H
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PG DE LA
PA U
C A R R E R D E C A S A N O VA
Hotels
C AR R ER D E
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ACCOMMODATION
176
Accommodation
L
OL
DE
LB
AL
EA
RS
177
ES A
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C DELS ASSAO
ER
CO
PASSEIG DE PUJADES
NAD
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DEL
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DEL
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LA
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LA
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CARR
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PLAA
URQUINAONA
HOTELS
Adagio
Australia
Aviny
Banys Orientals
Benidorm
Cntric
Coln
Duques de Bergara
Fernando
Gat Raval
Grand Marina
Grau
Gravina
Hesperia Metropol
Jard
Levante
Lloret
Mare Nostrum
Mari-Luz
Meson Castilla
Neri
Nouvel
Nuevo Coln
Oriente
Peninsular
Pensi 2000
Rembrandt
Rialto
Rivoli Ramblas
Sant Agust
Santa Anna
Terrassa
YOUTH HOSTELS
Barcelona Mar
Center Ramblas
Gothic Point
Itaca
Kabul
CA
T PE
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CARRER
CARRER DE PAUCLARIS
SAN
CARRER DE CASP
Mercat
del Born
24
1
34
28
32
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Parc de la
Ciutadella
CARR
DE
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M
BARCELONETA
Estac
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CARR
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CA
PA
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DO
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Contents
Parc de la
Barceloneta
PLAA
DE POMPEU
GERER
Accommodation
PA S
S E IG
MA
R IT
C AR R E R D E G A S
M
AN OLL D
DE E LA
B
BO
RB ARCEL
C
O
O M N E TA
PT
CA
ED
RR
ER
EB
DE
A
L
RC
CA
Palau
de Mar
ER D EL
D O C TO
ROND
PLAA DE
PAU VILA
PAS
SEIG
DE
SA
LVA
TP
APA
SSE
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PG
M U RA
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ACCOMMODATION Hotels
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Lloret Ramblas 125 t 933 173 366,
f 933 019 283. Gilt mirrors, old paintings
and wrinkled leather sofas in the lounge
speak of a faded glory, and rooms are on
the elderly side too, though bathrooms and
tile floors have been upgraded. But its a
fine building in a good location, and many
rooms have Ramblas-facing balconies as
does the dining room, where breakfast is
available (not included). e80.
Mare Nostrum Ramblas 67 t 933 185
340, f 934 123 069. Comfortable double
or triple/family rooms with satellite TV and
air conditioning nothing flashy, but modern, well kept and double-glazed against the
noise. Some come with balconies and street
views, others are internal. Breakfast included. e65, e75 en suite.
Oriente Ramblas 45 t 933 022 558,
w www.husa.es. If youre looking for
somewhere traditional on the Ramblas, this
historic three-star is your best bet midnineteenth-century style in the grand public
rooms and tastefully updated bedrooms.
Breakfast included. From e150.
Rivoli Ramblas Ramblas 128 t 934 817
676, w www.rivolihotels.com. The elegant, soundproofed rooms come with satellite TV and spacious bathrooms, the front
ones with classic Ramblas views. Theres
also a lovely rooftop terrace and bar, while
guests can also use the rooftop deck and
small pool at the cheaper sister hotel, the
Ambassador, across the Ramblas in the
Raval. From e250.
Barri Gtic
Adagio c/de Ferran 21 t 933 189 061,
w www.adagiohotel.com. Rooms on five
floors (theres an elevator) have been given
a thorough refurbishment new beds, parquet floors, satellite TV, air conditioning,
soundproofing and decent bathrooms and
a buffet breakfast is included. Front and
side rooms have little balconies. e90.
Aviny c/dAviny 42 t 933 187 945,
w www.hostalavinyo.com. All the rooms
here are freshly painted or tiled, with and
without private bath, and all boast a ceiling
fan. Theres a fair amount of space and
some rooms have little sofas. Note that
c/dAviny is noisy at weekends. No credit
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Accommodation
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Contents
Port Vell
Grand Marina World Trade Centre, Moll
de Barcelona t 936 039 000,
w www.grandmarinahotel.com. Five-star
comforts on eight floors overlooking the
port. Most of the rooms have enormous
marble bathrooms with jacuzzi baths and a
separate dressing area. Public areas draw
gasps, with commissioned works by Catalan
artists and a rooftop pool with fantastic
views. Winter-season and other special
rates sometimes bring the price down to
under e200; otherwise, from e300.
Accommodation
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
Hotels
ACCOMMODATION
180
lounge area and huge TV. Its set in a small
side street a few minutes from El Raval, but
there are Catalunya views from some balconies, and a small first-floor outdoor pool
and deck. From e180.
Gat Raval c/Joaqun Costa 44, 2 t 934
816 670, w www.gataccommodation
.com. Boutique style on a budget folding
chair, wall-mounted TV, and signature backlit street photograph/artwork that doubles
as a reading light. Only six of the 24 rooms
are en suite, but communal facilities are
good, and theres Internet access and free
tea and coffee. At the nearby sister hotel,
Gat Xino, c/Hospital 149155, all the rooms
are en suite and breakfast is included.
e66, en suite e75, Gat Xino e100.
Gravina c/Gravina 12 t 933 016 868,
w www.hotelh10gravina.com. The oldstyle facade deceives, for this is a contemporary update and good value for money.
Its fairly quiet (off the main road), while
comfort levels are high toiletries, robes
and hairdryers in the bathrooms, neat little
window-side armchairs, artwork in the
sharply styled public areas, and a buffet
breakfast included in the price. From e150.
Grau c/Ramelleres 27 t 933 018 135,
w www.hostalgrau.com. A really friendly
place, whose centrally heated rooms on
several floors (no elevator) have new beds,
freshly painted walls and shutters. Theres a
little lounge area with Internet access, plus
a good choice of breakfasts (not included)
served in the adjacent bar. Six small private
apartments in the same building (sleeping
2, 3 or 4, available by the night) offer a bit
more independence. e55, en suite e70,
apartments from e80.
Meson Castilla c/Valldonzella 5 t 933
182 182, w www.husa.es. A throwback to
1950s rural Spain, with every inch carved,
painted and stencilled, from the grandfather
clock in reception to the wardrobe in your
room. Large, air-conditioned rooms (some
with terraces) filled with country furniture, a
vast rustic dining room (buffet breakfast
included) and best of all a lovely tiled
rear patio on which to relax in the sun.
From e120.
Peninsular c/de Sant Pau 34 t 933 023
138, f 934 123 699. The building originally
belonging to a priestly order, which explains
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Accommodation
181
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
carpets and robes, enormous marble bathrooms and fresh flowers. The seafront gardens encompass an open-air pool and hot
tub, while two fine restaurants, a terrace
caf, gym and sauna complete the lineup.
Special rates start at around e200; otherwise, from e400.
Eixample
Balmes c/Mallorca 216 t 934 511 914,
w www.derbyhotels.es. Agreeable boutique hotel with sharp-as-a-knife dining and
bar facilities, and classy rooms with parquet
floors and leather sofas. A couple of
ground-floor rooms have their own terrace
overlooking the lush patio garden, complete
with swimming pool and bar, and on your
way in and out every day you get to browse
the African art and sculpture in the lobby.
From e250.
Claris c/Pau Claris 150 t 934 876 262,
w www.derbyhotels.es. Very select, very
palatial, from the incense-scented marble
lobby complete with authentic Roman
Port Olmpic
Arts Barcelona c/Marina 1921 t 900
221 900 or 932 211 000, w www.ritzcarlton.com/hotels/barcelona. See map
on p.118. Thirty-three floors of five-star
designer luxury, with fabulous views of the
port and sea. Service and standards are
first-rate (theres a team of butlers on call)
and the sharply styled rooms are highly
pleasing, with floor-to-ceiling windows, thick
M
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ACCOMMODATION
182
mosaics to the hugely appealing rooms
ranged around a soaring, water-washed
atrium. And how many hotels have their
own private antiquities museum? The staff
couldnt be more accommodating, theres a
rooftop terrace pool for those idle moments,
a great bar and one of the best hotel
restaurants in the city. From e350.
Condes de Barcelona Pg. de Grcia
7375 t 934 674 780, w www
.condesdebarcelona.com. Straddling two
sides of c/Mallorca, the Condes is fashioned
from two former palaces, its rooms all turned
out in contemporary style, some with jacuzzi
and balcony, some with views of Gauds La
Pedrera. Best deal are those on the south
side, seventh floor exterior, with fantastic private terraces but charging standard room
rates. Theres also a roof terrace and plunge
pool, bar and restaurant. From e250.
DUxelles Gran Via de les Corts
Catalanes 688 t 932 652 560,
w www.hotelduxelles.com. The elegant
nineteenth-century town-house rooms feature wrought-iron bedsteads, typical tiled
floors and Andalucian-style bathrooms, and
some also have balconies and little private
patios (its quietest at the back of the building). Prices are highly reasonable, and extra
beds can be placed in many rooms a few
rooms are also available in another building
at Gran Via 667. e100.
Ginebra Rambla de Catalunya 1, 3 t 933
171 063, e hotelginebra@telefonica
.net. Good-sized rooms with nice old furniture, bathrooms you can turn round in for a
change, pot plants, cappuccino machine and
small bar. All rooms come with TV and air
conditioning, and some have impressive
views of Plaa de Catalunya ask for one of
the four with a balcony. e75.
Girona c/Girona 24, 1 t 932 650 259,
w www.hostalgirona.com. The entrance
has a positively baronial stairway and things
are scarcely any less impressive inside the
family-run building a wide range of cosy
rooms (some sharing a bathroom, others
with a shower or full bath), corridors laid
with rugs, polished wooden doors, paintings
and restored furniture. From e46, full en
suite e55.
Goya c/de Pau Claris 74, 1 t 933 022
565, w www.hostalgoya.com. Upgraded
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Accommodation
183
green-baize terrace and city views. These
are the same price as other rooms but go
quickly. e180.
Ritz Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 668
t 935 101 130, w www.ritzbcn.com.
Formally attired staff jump to your every
command, while your domain extends to
opulent lounges, a terrace-garden, bar,
restaurant and health club. The suites are
sensational, but for these as for the
deluxe rooms (theres no such thing as
standard at the Ritz) youre paying
crazily inflated prices. From e400.
Rondas c/Girona 4, 3 t 932 325 102. A
cheap choice with a friendly English-speaking welcome and a touch of domesticity
an old carved bed in one room, the share of
a balcony onto the street in another. Good
for lone travellers, as there are four singles
(e30); otherwise, six cramped doubles
available, some with attached shower and
toilet. No credit cards. e40, en suite e45.
Windsor Rambla de Catalunya 84 t 932
151 198. Genteel place with English-speaking management, set in a lovingly furnished
building on the Eixamples nicest avenue.
There are fifteen rooms, all with en-suite
shower and toilet (and often booked long in
advance). No credit cards. e70.
Youth hostels
Although there are lots of hostels in Barcelona, you should
always make an advance reservation as most of them are very
popular. Internet access,
kitchens, common/games rooms
and laundry facilities are standard always use the lockers or
safes provided (for which theres
sometimes a small charge).You
need an International Youth
Hostel Federation (IYHF) card
for a couple of the hostels, but
you can join on checkin.The
only tourist office to handle
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Accommodation
Youth hostels
ACCOMMODATION
184
the corner or meals provided. IYHF membership required; five-night maximum stay.
e23 includes breakfast, low season e19.
Barcelona Mar c/de Sant Pau 80, El
Raval t 933 248 530, w www.youthostelbarcelona.com. Large hostel with mixed
dorms in 6-, 8-, 10-, 14- or 16-bedded
rooms on the fringe of the Rambla de
Raval. Its a secure place, with 24hr reception. e23 includes breakfast, low season
e1820.
Center Ramblas c/Hospital 63, El Raval
t 934 124 069, w www.centerramblas.com. Very popular 200-bed hostel, given its location 100m from the
Ramblas, and well equipped with 3- to 10bed dorms, lounge, bar and travel library.
Open 24hr. IYHF membership required. No
credit cards. Under-26s e15.50, over 26s
e20, includes breakfast.
Gothic Point c/Vigatans 5, La Ribera
t 932 687 808, w www.gothicpoint.com.
A grand downstairs communal area shows
off the buildings dramatic proportions, and
on the roof theres mini-golf. Rooms have
14 bunks and attached bathrooms, and
each bed gets its own bedside cabinet and
reading light. Bike rental available. Open
24hr. e21 includes breakfast, low season
e18.
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Essentials
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187
Arrival
Whatever your point of arrival, its easy to
get to central Barcelona. In most cases,
you can be off the plane, train or bus and
in your hotel room within the hour.
Information
The citys tourist board, Turisme de
Barcelona (t 807 117 222 from within
Contents
Essentials
Arrival Information
ESSENTIALS
By air
Information
ESSENTIALS
188
offices on arrival at the airport and
Barcelona Sants. The main city office is in
Plaa de Catalunya (daily 9am9pm;
mCatalunya), down the steps in the
southeast corner of the square, where
theres a money exchange service and
separate accommodation desk. Theres
also an office in the Barri Gtic at Plaa
de Sant Jaume, entrance at c/Ciutat 2
(MonFri 9am8pm, Sat 10am8pm,
Sun & hols 10am2pm; mJaume I).
For information about travelling in the
wider province of Catalunya, you need the
Centre dInformaci de Catalunya at
Palau Robert, Pg. de Grcia 107, Eixample, mDiagonal ( t 932 384 000,
w www.gencat.net/probert; MonSat
10am7.30pm, Sun & hols 10am
2.30pm).
For anything else you might need to
know, try the citys t 010 telephone
enquiries service (MonSat 8am10pm;
some English-speaking staff available).
Theyll be able to help with questions
about transport, public services and other
matters.
Events, concerts, exhibitions and festivals are covered in full at the walk-in
office of the Institut de Cultura at the
Palau de la Virreina, Ramblas 99,
mLiceu ( t 933 017 775, w www
.bcn.es/cultura; MonSat 10am8pm,
Sun 11am3pm). The most useful list-
Discount cards
If youre going to do a lot of sightseeing, you can save yourself money by buying
one of the available discount cards.
Barcelona Card (1 day e16.25, 2 days e19.25, 3 days e22.25, 4 days e24 or
5 days e26). Free public transport, plus museum and attraction discounts.
Available at the Plaa de Catalunya and airport tourist offices, Estaci del Nord bus
station and other outlets.
Articket (e15; valid three months; w www.articketbcn.com). Half-price admission into six major art galleries (including MNAC, MACBA, and Tpies and Mir
foundations). Buy it at participating galleries, or at Plaa de Catalunya or Barcelona
Sants tourist office.
Ruta del Modernisme (e12; valid one year; w www.rutamodernisme.com).
Glossy English-language guide and map, containing vouchers for significant discounts to most major modernista sites and attractions (including Sagrada Famlia
and La Pedrera), plus other benefits. Available in city bookshops and at the Centre
del Modernisme outlets in Casa Amatller (Eixample, p.124) and Hospital de la Santa
Creu i de Sant Pau (Sagrada Famlia and Glries, p.136).
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Essentials
189
for Antoni Gaud and his works, with plenty
of links to other sites.
w www.intercat.gencat.es/guia The
University of Barcelonas online English
Catalan phrase book, with an audio option.
w www.paginasamarillas.es The Spanish
Yellow Pages (find any business in
Contents
The metro
The quickest way of getting around
Barcelona is by metro. Entrances are
marked with a red diamond sign with an
M. Its hours of operation are Monday
to Thursday 5am to midnight; Friday, Saturday and the day before a public holiday
5am to 2am; Sunday and public holidays
6am to midnight. The system is perfectly
safe, though many of the train carriages
are heavily graffitied. Buskers and beggars are common, zipping from one
carriage to the next at stations.
Essentials
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190
ESSENTIALS
Taxis
Black-and-yellow taxis are inexpensive
and plentiful. Theres a minimum charge
of e1.15 (e1.30 after 10pm, weekends
and holidays) and after that its currently
e0.69/0.88 per kilometre. Most short
journeys across town run to around e6.
There are taxi ranks outside major train
and metro stations, in main squares, near
large hotels and at places along the main
avenues. To call a taxi in advance (few of
the operators speak English, and youll be
charged around an extra e3), try Barna
Taxis t 933 577 755, Fono-Taxi t 933
001 100, Radio Taxi Barcelona t 932
250 000, Radio Taxi 033 t 933 033
033, Servi-Taxi t 933 300 300, or Taxi
Amic t 934 208 088.
City tours
Two main tour-bus operators feature daily
board-at-will, open-top services (1 day
e16, 2 days e20), which can drop you
outside every attraction in the city. The
choice is between Barcelona Tours or
the Bus Turstic, with frequent departures from Plaa de Catalunya and many
Contents
Essentials
191
Festa de la Merc
Festival de Jazz
Marat de lEspectacle
Snar
Snar (w www.sonar.es), Europes biggest
and most cutting-edge electronic music
and multimedia art festival, presents three
days of brilliant noise and spectacle every
June. Experience DJs, VDJs, gigs, conferences, exhibitions and installations at
venues across the city.
Contents
Christmas
For more than two hundred years the
Christmas season has seen a special
market and crafts fair, the Fira de Santa
Llcia (Dec 122), outside the cathedral.
Browse for gifts, or watch the locals snapping up Christmas trees, nativity figures
and traditional decorations.
New Year
At Cap dAny (New Years Eve) there are
mass gatherings in Plaa de Catalunya and
other main squares. Youre supposed to eat
12 grapes in the last 12 seconds of the
year for 12 months of good luck. The Three
Kings (who traditionally distribute seasonal
gifts to Spanish children) arrive by sea at
the port at about 5pm on January 5 and
undertake the Cavalcada de Reis, riding
into town, throwing sweets as they go. The
traditional gift-giving is the next day (Jan
6).
Essentials
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192
Directory
ESSENTIALS
Directory
AIRPORT Trains to the airport depart every
30min from Barcelona Sants
(5.43am10.13pm; e2.25) or Pl. de
Catalunya (6.08am10.08pm). Aerobs
runs every 12min from Pl. de Catalunya, Pg.
de Grcia or Pl. dEspanya (MonFri
6ammidnight, Sat & Sun 6.30am
midnight; e3.45).
BANKS AND EXCHANGE Normal banking
hours are Monday to Friday from 8.30am
to 2pm. Outside these hours you can use
an exchange office, including those at the
airport (daily 7.30am10.45pm), Barcelona
Sants (daily 8am10pm), El Corte Ingls
(MonSat 10am9.30pm), and the Pl. de
Catalunya tourist office (MonSat
9am9pm, Sun 9am2pm). However, by far
the easiest way to get money is to use your
bank debit card to withdraw cash from an
ATM, found all over the city, including the
airport and major train stations. You can
usually withdraw up to e300 a day and
instructions are offered in English once you
insert your card.
BIKE RENTAL Half-day rental costs around
e1015, full-day e25, from: Biciclot, Pg.
Martim 3335, Port Olmpic, mCiutadellaVila Olmpica t 932 219 778, w www.
biciclot.net; Bicitram, Avgda. Marqus de
lArgentera 15, La Ribera, mBarceloneta
t 607 226 069 or 636 401 997 (weekends
& hols only); Decathlon, Pl. Villa de Madrid
13, Barri Gtic, mCatalunya t 933 426
161; Scenic, c/Marina 22, Port Olmpic,
mCiutadella-Vila Olmpica t 932 211 666;
Un Coxte Menys, c/Esparteria 3, La Ribera
mBarceloneta t 932 682 105,
w www.bicicletabarcelona.com.
CINEMA Films at most of the larger cinemas and multiplexes (including the
Maremgnum screens at Port Vell) are usually shown dubbed into Spanish or Catalan.
However, several cinemas do show originallanguage (versin original or V.O.) foreign
films, and are listed in the weeks Guia del
Ocio. Tickets cost around e6, while most
cinemas have discounted entry one night
(usually Mon or Wed), costing around e4.
Many also feature late-night weekend
screenings (madrugadas), at 12.30 or 1am.
Best art-house cinema is the Generalitats
Filmoteca (see p.141).
CONSULATES Australia, Gran Via Carles III
98, Les Corts, mMaria Cristina/Les Corts
t 934 909 013, w www.embaustralia.es;
Britain, Avgda. Diagonal 477, Eixample,
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ESSENTIALS
194
scattered through the old city, particularly in
the Raval and Ribera. Youll be assigned a
cabin to make your calls, and afterwards
you pay in cash.
TICKETS You can buy concert, sporting and
exhibition tickets with a credit card using
the ServiCaixa (t 902 332 211,
w www.servicaixa.com), automatic dispensing machines in branches of La Caixa savings bank. Its also possible to order tickets
by phone or online through ServiCaixa or
TelEntrada (t 902 101 212, w www.telentrada.com). In addition, theres a concert
ticket desk in the FNAC store, El Triangle,
Plaa Catalunya (mCatalunya), while for
advance tickets for all Ajuntament-sponsored concerts, visit the Palau de la
Virreina, Ramblas 99.
TIME Barcelona is one hour ahead of
Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), six hours
ahead of New York and Toronto, nine hours
ahead of Los Angeles, nine hours behind
Sydney and eleven hours behind Auckland.
This applies except for brief periods during
the changeovers to and from daylight saving
(in Spain the clocks go forward in the last
Budget Barcelona
Heres how to keep costs to a minimum in Barcelona.
Eat your main meal of the day at lunchtime, when the men del dia offers fantastic value.
Buy a public transport travel pass, which will save you around forty percent on
every ride.
Visit museums and galleries on the first Sunday of the month, when admission is
usually free.
Drink and eat inside cafs theres usually a surcharge for terrace service.
Take any student/youth/senior citizen cards youre entitled to carry, as they often
attract discounts on museum, gallery and attraction charges.
Take advantage of the discount nights at the cinema (Mon and sometimes Wed)
and theatre (Tues).
Go to the Ramblas, La Seu, Parc de la Ciutadella, Parc del Collserola, Port
Olmpic, city beaches, Olympic Stadium, Caixa Forum and Parc Gell all free.
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197
Catalan
Pronunciation
Dont be tempted to use the few rules of Spanish pronunciation you
may know in particular the soft Spanish Z and C dont apply, so
unlike in the rest of Spain the city is not Barthelona but Barcelona,
as in English.
A as in hat if stressed, as in alone when
unstressed.
E varies, but usually as in get.
I as in police.
IG sounds like the tch in the English
scratch; lleig (ugly) is pronounced
yeah-tch.
O a round full sound, when stressed,
otherwise like a soft U sound.
U somewhere between the U of put and
rule.
sounds like an English S; plaa is
pronounced plassa.
C followed by an E or I is soft; otherwise
hard.
G followed by E or I is like the zh in
Zhivago; otherwise hard.
H is always silent.
J as in the French Jean.
L.L is best pronounced (for foreigners) as
a single L sound; but for Catalan
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198
Good afternoon/night Bona tarde/nit
See you later
Fins desprs
Sorry
Ho sento
Excuse me
Perdoni
I (dont) understand (No) Ho entenc
Do you speak
Parleu angls?
English?
Where? When?
On? Quan?
What? How much? Qu? Quant?
Here, There
Aqu, All/All
This, That
Aix, All
Open, Closed
Obert, Tancat
With, Without
Amb, Sense
Good, Bad
Bo(na), Dolent(a)
Big, Small
Gran, Petit(a)
Cheap, Expensive Barat(a), Car(a)
I want
Vull (pronounced
vwee)
Id like
Voldria
Do you know?
Vosts saben?
I dont know
No s
There is (Is there?) Hi ha(?)
Whats that?
Qu s aix?
Do you have?
T?
Today, Tomorrow Avui, Dem
Accommodation
Do you have a
T alguna
room?
habitaci?
with two beds/ amb dos llits/llit
double bed
per dues persones
with shower/bath amb dutxa/bany
Its for one person Per a una persona
(two people)
(dues persones)
For one night
Per una nit (una
(one week)
setmana)
Its fine, how much Esta b, quant s?
is it?
Dont you have
En t de ms bon
anything cheaper? preu?
Per anar a?
A la dreta, A
lesquerra, Tot recte
On s?
lestaci de
autobuses
the train station lestaci
the nearest bank el banc ms a
prop
the post office loficina de
correus
the toilet
la toaleta
Contents
De on surt el
autobs a?
Aquest tren va a
Barcelona?
Voldria un bitlet
(danar i tornar) a
A quina hora surt
(arriba a)?
Numbers
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
101
200
500
1000
un(a)
dos (dues)
tres
quatre
cinc
sis
set
vuit
nou
deu
onze
dotze
tretze
catorze
quinze
setze
disset
divuit
dinou
vint
vint-i-un
trenta
quaranta
cinquanta
seixanta
setanta
vuitanta
novanta
cent
cent un
dos-cents (dues-centes)
cinc-cents
mil
Language
dilluns
dimarts
dimecres
dijous
divendres
dissabte
diumenge
199
Menu reader
Basic words
Cooking terms
Assorted
Baked
Char-grilled
Fresh
Fried
Fried in batter
Garlic mayonnaise
Grilled
Pickled
Roast
Sauce
Sauted
Scrambled
Seasonal
Smoked
Spit-roasted
Stewed
Steamed
Stuffed
Contents
Assortit
Al forn
A la brasa
Fresc
Fregit
A la romana
All i oli
A la plantxa
En escabetx
Rostit
Salsa
Saltat
Remenat
Del temps
Fumat
A last
Guisat
Al vapor
Farcit
Anchovies
Baby squid
Clams
Crab
Cuttlefish
Hake
Lobster
Monkfish
Mussels
Octopus
Prawns
Razor clams
Salmon
Salt cod
Sardines
Sea bass
Sole
Squid
Swordfish
Tuna
Anxoves/Seitons
Calamarsets
Closes
Cranc
Sipia
Llu
Llagosta
Rap
Musclos
Pop
Gambes
Navalles
Salm
Bacall
Sardines
Llobarro
Llenguado
Calamars
Peix espasa
Tonyina
Vegetables/Verdures i llegums
Artichokes
Aubergine/eggplant
Broad/lima beans
Chickpeas
Courgette/zucchini
Garlic
Haricot beans
Lentils
Language
Carxofes
Albergnia
Faves
Cigrons
Carbass
All
Mongetes
Llenties
Menu reader
Esmorzar
Dinar
Sopar
Ganivet
Forquilla
Cullera
Taula
Ampolla
Got
Carta
Sopa
Amanida
Entremesos
Truita
Entrep
Torrades
Tapes
Mantega
Ous
Pa
Olives
Oli
Vinagre
Sal
Pebre
Sucre
El compte
Sc vegetari/
vegetariana
LANGUAGE
To have breakfast
To have lunch
To have dinner
Knife
Fork
Spoon
Table
Bottle
Glass
Menu
Soup
Salad
Hors doeuvres
Omelette
Sandwich
Toast
Tapas
Butter
Eggs
Bread
Olives
Oil
Vinegar
Salt
Pepper
Sugar
The bill
Im a vegetarian
200
Mushrooms
Onions
Potatoes
Spinach
Tomatoes
Wild mushrooms
Xampinyons
Cebes
Patates
Espinacs
Tomquets
Bolets
Menu reader
LANGUAGE
Fruit/Fruita
Apple
Banana
Grapes
Melon
Orange
Pear
Strawberries
Poma
Pltan
Ram
Mel
Taronja
Pera
Maduixes
Desserts/Postres
Cake
Cheese
Fruit salad
Crme caramel
Ice cream
Rice pudding
Tart
Yoghurt
Pasts
Formatge
Macedonia
Flam
Gelat
Arrs amb llet
Tarta
Yogur
Catalan specialities
Amanida Catalana Salad served with
sliced meats (sometimes cheese)
Arrs a banda Rice with seafood, the
rice served separately
Arrs a la marinera Paella: rice with
seafood and saffron
Arrs negre Black rice, cooked in
squid ink
Bacall a la llauna Salt cod baked with
garlic, tomato and paprika
Botifarra (amb mongetes) Grilled
Catalan pork sausage (with stewed
haricot beans)
Calots Large char-grilled spring onions,
eaten with romesco sauce (see
below), available February/March
Canelons Cannelloni, baked pasta with
ground meat and bchamel sauce
Conill all i oli Rabbit with garlic
mayonnaise
Crema Catalana Crme caramel, with
caramelized sugar topping
Escalivada Grilled aubergine/eggplant,
pepper/capsicum and onion
Espinacs a la Catalana Spinach cooked
with raisins and pine nuts
Esqueixada Salad of salt cod with
Contents
Drinks
Beer
Wine
Champagne
Coffee
Espresso
Large black coffee
Large white coffee
Small white coffee
Decaf
Tea
Drinking chocolate
Crushed ice drink
Milk
Tiger nut drink
Water
Mineral water
(sparkling)
(still)
Language
Cervesa
Vi
Xampan/Cava
Caf
Caf sol
Caf Americ
Caf amb llet
Caf tallat
Descafeinat
Te
Xocolata
Granissat
Llet
Orxata
Aigua
Aigua mineral
(amb gas)
(sense gas)
Contents
Index
202
SMALL PRINT
Publishing information
This 1st edition published February 2005 by Rough
Guides Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL.
345 Hudson St, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10014,
USA.
ISBN 1-84353-395-2
The publishers and authors have done their best to
ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in Barcelona DIRECTIONS; however, they
can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or
inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result
of information or advice contained in the guide.
1
Help us update
Weve gone to a lot of effort to ensure that
the first edition of Barcelona DIRECTIONS
is accurate and up-to-date. However, things
change places get discovered, opening
hours are notoriously fickle, restaurants and
rooms raise prices or lower standards. If you
feel weve got it wrong or left something
out, wed like to know, and if you can
remember the address, the price, the phone
number, so much the better.
Well credit all contributions, and send a
copy of the next edition (or any other DIRECTIONS guide or Rough Guide if you prefer)
Contents
203
Rough Guide credits
Text editor: Claire Saunders
Layout: Dan May
Photography: Ian Aitken
Cartography: Jasbir Sandhu
Picture editor: Jj Luck
Photo credits
All images Rough Guides except the following:
Front cover La Pedrera Robert Harding
Back cover Cable car Alamy
pp.9 & 10 Sagrada Famlia Dorling Kindersley
p.14 Hotel Neri Hotel Neri
p.15 Prestige Prestige
p.15 Arts Barcelona Immanol Sisitiaga for
Absolute Visual
p.15 Grand Marina Jordi Llobet
p.15 Claris Mr. Martin Nocholas Kunz
p.18 Dia de Sant Jordi Pat Behnke/Alamy
p.19 Human Audio Sponge performing at the Snar
festival Advanced Music
Contents
SMALL PRINT
The author
204
Index
Map entries are marked in colour
INDEX
a
accommodation 175
accommodation,
Eixample 181
accommodation, Old
Town 176
Aeir de Montserrat 164
Aerobs 187
airport 187, 192
Ajuntament de Barcelona 64
Aqurium, L 12, 75
Arc de Triomf 47, 102
architecture 24, 122
Arenes, Les 142
arrival 187
Articket 188
Auditori, L 43, 138
Avinguda Diagonal 137, 158
b
banks and exchange 192
Barcelona Card 188
Barcelona Sants 187
Barceloneta 77
Barri Gtic 59
Barri Gtic 60
bars (by area)
Barri Gtic 71
Camp Nou, Pedralbes and
Sarri-Sant Gervasi 158
Dreta de lEixample 132
Esquerra de lEixample 144
Grcia 151
Montjuc 115
Port Olmpic and Poble Nou
121
Port Vell and Barceloneta 80
Ramblas, The 58
Raval, El 89
Ribera, La 100
Sitges 172
Tibidabo and Parc del
Collserola 163
bars
Aire Sala Diana 144
Almirall 89
Ascensor 71
Bar Ra 45, 89
Barcelona Rouge 115
Berimbau 100
Bosc de la Fades 45, 58
Caf Caf 121
Caf de les Delcies 89
Caf Royale 71
Contents
Canig 151
Casa Quimet 151
Cervecera Jazz 116
Cervesera Artesana 132
Confitera 89
Danzatoria 163
Dietrich 144
Dry Martini 144
Espai Barroc 101
Fianna 101
Fira 44, 144
Fortuny 89
Gimlet 159
Glaciar 71
Irish Winds 80
Kabara 89
Kennedy Irish Sailing Club
121
Les Gens Que Jaime 132
Leticia 71
London Bar 90
Luz de Gas 35, 80
Mas i Mas 159
Merry Ant 90
Mirablau 45, 163
Mojito Bar 80
Mudanzas 101
Muebles Navarro 90
Muy Buenas 90
Oui Caf 144
Parrots Pub, Sitges 172
Pipa Club 71
Punto BCN 144
Quilombo 144
Rosa de Foc 101
Salambo 151
Santa Caf 145
So-da 72
Tinta Roja 116
Travel Bar 72, 190
Tres Torres 159
Universal 159
Vikingos, Sitges 172
Vinya del Senyor 101
Virreina Bar 151
Voramar, Sitges 172
c
cable car 16, 17, 78, 113,
164
cafs 30
Al Fresco, Sitges 170
Aniga Casa Figueras 57
Bar del Pi 68
Bar Gaud 139
Caf de lOpera 30, 57
Caf del Born 97
Caf del Sol 149
Cava Universal 57
Cerera 68
Chiringuito, Sitges 171
Forn de Sant Jaume 31, 130
Granja de Gav 86
Granja M. Viader 86
Kasparo 87
Laie Llibreria Caf 31, 130
Laie Martim 119
Meson del Caf 31, 68
Mos 149
Rosal 44, 97
Textil Caf 31, 97
Tio Che, El 41, 119
Valor 130
Venus Delicatessen 68
Xaloc 68
Zurich 30, 57
205
Barri Gtic 72
Camp Nou, Pedralbes and
Sarri-Sant Gervasi 158
Dreta de lEixample 132
Esquerra de lEixample 145
Grcia 151
Montjuc 116
Port Olmpic and Poble Nou
121
Raval, El 90
Ribera, La 101
clubs
Antilla Barcelona 145
Arena Madre 145
Astin 101
Bikini 159
Centre Artes Tradicionrius
151
Cova del Drac-Jazzroom 159
Discothque 116
Dostrece 90
Fonfone 72
Harlem Jazz Club 72
Jamboree 72
Jazz S Club 90
Karma 72
La Boite 145
Llantiol 90
Luz de Gas 145
Macarena 72
Metro 145
Mond Club 132
Moog 90
Otto Zutz 151
Oven 121
Paloma, La 90
Razzmatazz 121
Sala Apolo/Nitsa Club 116
Sidecar 43, 72
Suborn 101
Tablao de Carmen 116
Tarantos 43, 72
Terrazza 116
The Loft 121
Torres de vila 116
Contents
d
dance 42
Dia de Sant Joan 191
Dia de Sant Jordi 18, 65, 191
Diagonal Mar 119
disabled travellers 192
discount cards 188
Domnech i Montaner, Llus
122
Dreta de lEixample 122
Dreta de lEixample 123
e
Eixample 122
emergencies 192
Encants, Els 137
Escola Industrial 140
Esglsia de Betlem 53
Esglsia de la Merc 67
Esglsia de Sant Pau del
Camp 28, 85
Esglsia de Sant Pere de les
Puelles 92
Esglsia de Santa Mara del
Mar 29, 95
Esglsia de Santa Mara del Pi
63
Esglsia dels Sants Just i
Pastor 65
Espai de Dansa i Msica, L
141
Esquerra de lEixample 140
Esquerra de lEixample 141
Estaci de Frana 187
Estaci del Nord 187
Estadi Olmpic 27, 111
f
FC Barcelona 152
Festa de la Merc 19, 191
Festa Major de Grcia 19,
191
Festival de Jazz 191
Festival del Grec 18, 191
festivals 18, 191
Filmoteca 141
g
galleries 38
Gaud, Antoni 122, 133
gay and lesbian Barcelona
192
Glries 133
Golondrinas, Las 16, 190
Grcia 146
Grcia 147
Gran Teatre del Liceu 42, 55
Hivernacle, Parc de la
Ciutadella 104, 105
holidays (see public holidays)
Hospital de la Santa Creu 84
Hospital de la Santa Creu i de
Sant Pau 25, 136
hospitals 193
hostels (see youth hostels)
hotels (by area)
Barri Gtic 178
Eixample 181
Port Olmpic 181
Port Vell 179
Ramblas, Las 175
Raval, El 179
Ribera, La, and Sant Pere 180
hotels 175
Adagio 178
Arts Barcelona 15, 117, 181
Australia 179
Aviny 178
Balmes 181
Banys Orientals 180
Benidorm 175
Cntric 179
Claris 15, 181
Coln 178
Condes de Barcelona 182
DUxelles 182
Duques de Bergara 179
Fernando 178
Gat Raval 180
Ginebra 182
Girona 182
Goya 182
Grand Marina 15, 179
Granva 182
INDEX
206
INDEX
Grau 180
Gravina 180
Hesperia Metropol 178
Jard 178
Levante 178
Lloret 178
Majestic 182
Mare Nostrum 178
Mari-Luz 178
Meson Castilla 180
Neri 14, 179
Nouvel 179
Nuevo Coln 180
Oliva 182
Omm 182
Oriente 178
Paseo de Grcia 182
Peninsular 180
Pensi 2000 181
Prestige 15, 183
Regente 183
Rembrandt 179
Rialto 179
Ritz 183
Rivoli Ramblas 178
Rondas 183
Sant Agust 180
Santa Anna 179
Terrassa 180
Windsor 183
i
Ictineo 76
IMAX Port Vell 76
information 187
Institut del Teatre 111
Internet access 193
j
Jard Botnic de Barcelona
23, 114
Jardins de Mossen Costa i
Llobera 23, 113
l
language 197
left luggage 193
Liceu (see Gran Teatre del
Liceu)
lost property 193
m
mail 193
Contents
n
newspapers and magazines
193
p
Palau de la Generalitat 64
Palau de la Msica Catalana
42, 91
Palau de la Virreina 53, 188
Palau de Mar 77
Palau Gell 85
Palau Maricel, Sitges 170
Palau Moja 53
Palau Reial de Pedralbes 153
Palau Robert 127, 188
Parc Castell de lOroneta 157
Parc dAtraccions, Tibidabo
13, 160
Parc de lEspanya Industrial
141
Parc de la Barceloneta 78
Parc de la Ciutadella 23, 102
Parc de la Ciutadella 103
Parc de la Creueta del Coll
148
Parc del Clot 137
Parc del Collserola 22, 162
Parc Gell 11, 22, 147
Parc Joan Mir 23, 142
Parc Zoolgic 13, 104
parking 187
parks and gardens 22
Passeig de Grcia 122
Passeig del Born 96
Passeig Martim 27, 77
Pavell Mies van der Rohe
108
Pedralbes 152
Pedrera, La 24, 126
pharmacies 193
Picasso, Pablo 94
207
Contents
r
Rambla de Poble Nou 118
Rambla de Raval 84
Ramblas, Las 11, 51, 54
Ramblas, Las 52
Raval, El 81
Raval, El 82
reservation agencies 175
restaurants and tapas bars (by
area)
Barri Gtic 69
Camp Nou, Pedralbes and
Sarri-Sant Gervasi 158
Dreta de lEixample 130
Esquerra de lEixample 143
Grcia 149
Montjuc 114
Port Olmpic and Poble Nou
120
Port Vell and Barceloneta 78
Ramblas, The 57
Raval, El 87
Ribera, La 97
Sagrada Famlia and Glries
139
Sitges 171
Ribera, La 91
Ribera, La, and Sant Pere
92
Ruta del Modernisme 188
s
Sagrada Famlia 10, 133
Sagrada Famlia and Glries
134
Sagrat Cor, Tibidao 161
Sala Pars 63
Sal del Tinell 62
Sant Pere 91
Santa Eullia 35, 74
sardana 62, 64
Sarri 152, 157
ServiCaixa 194
Seu, La 11, 59
shopping 20
shops (by area)
Barri Gtic 67
Camp Nou, Pedralbes and
Sarri-Sant Gervasi 158
Dreta de lEixample 128
Esquerra de lEixample 142
Grcia 148
Montjuc 114
Ramblas, The 56
Raval, El 86
Ribera, La 96
Sagrada Famlia and Glries
139
Sitges 170
shops
Altair 142
Antonio Mir 128
Arca del Avia, L 67
Armand Basi 128
Art Escudellers 21, 67
INDEX
INDEX
208
Atalanta Manufactura 96
BD Ediciones de Diseo 128
Bulevard Rosa 128
Camisera Pons 148
Camper 142
Casa del Llibre 129
Casa Gispert 96
Centre Comercial Barcelona
Glries 139
Cerera Mas 86
Cerera Subir 67
Colmado Quilez 129
Contribucions 149
Corte Ingls, El 56
Cuca Fera 96
Custo Barcelona 96
CyD, Sitges 170
Czar 97
Daaz 97
Discos Castell 86
Dom 129
Elephant Books 114
Espai Liceu 56
Formatgeria La Seu 67
Forvm Ferlandina 86
Futura 67
Gimnez & Zuazo 86
Gotham 67
Herboristeria del Rey 68
Indio, El 86
Janina 158
Jean-Pierre Bua 142
Joaqun Berao 129
Kitsch 97
LIlla 158
Laie 129
Lailo 86
Llibreria Quera 68
Mandarina Duck 129
Mango 129
Manual Alpargatera 68
Mercadillo, El 68
Muxart 129
Orgens 99.9% 97
Oscar, Sitges 170
Pilma 143
Rafa Teja Atelier 97
Ras 86
Recicle Recicle 86
Contents
t
tapas bars (see restaurants
and tapas bars)
Tpies, Antoni 125
taxes 193
taxis 190
Teatre Grec 18, 110
Teatre Lliure 111
Teatre Nacional de Catalunya
43, 138
Telefric de Montjuc 17, 113
Tel-Entrada 194
telephones 193
theatre 42, 111
Tibibus 160
Tibidabo 160
Tibidabo and Parc del
Collserola 161
ticket agencies 194
time zones 194
tipping 194
Tomb Bus shopping line 158
Torre Agbar 137
Torre de Collserola 46, 161
Torre del Rei Mart 62
Torre Mapfre 117
tour buses 17, 190
tourist offices 187
tours 190
u
Umbracle, Parc de la
Ciutadella 104
Universitat de Barcelona 140
v
Vinon 127
w
walking in Montserrat 167
walking in Parc del Collserola
163
walking tours 190
websites 188
y
youth hostels 183
Albergue Verge de Montserrat
183
Barcelona Mar 184
Center Ramblas 184
Gothic Point 184
Itaca 184
Kabul 184
Sea Point 184
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Centre dArt
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la Boqueria
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Universitat
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200 m
CARRER DE LA DIPUTACIO
RAMBLA DE CATALUNYA
CARRER DARIBAU
CARRER DE MUNTANER
CARRER DE CASANOVA
CARRER DE VILLAROEL
CARRER DE LA DIPUTACIO
OLD TOWN
Estacio de Frana
Martorell, Montserrat
Reina
Elisenda
Zona
Univerisitria 3
Cornell
Can
Boixeres
Can Serra
Almeda
Rambla Just Oliveras
El Prat de
Llobregat
Bellvitge
Hospital
de Bellvitge 1
Palau
Reial
Can Pubillia
Vidalet Cases
Collblanc
Maria
Cristina
Espanya
Parc de
Montjuc
Airport
Pl.
Molina
Castell de
Montjuc
Bar de
Viver
Sant Andreu
Alfons X
Fontana
Joanic
Sant Pau
Sagrada
Familia
Girona
Universitat
Sant Catalunya
Antoni
Liceu
Tetuan
Passeig de
Grcia
Urquinaona
Jaume I
Drassanes
Miramar
Encants
Monumental
Barceloneta
Navas
Bac de Roda
Clot
Bogatell
Verneda
St. Mart
Poblenou
Llacuna
Selva de
Mar
Artigues
Sant Adria
4 La Pau
Bess
Glries
Marina
1 Fondo
Sagrera
Camp de
l'Arpa
Arc de Triomf
Santa Coloma
Fabra I Puig
Guinard
Congrs
Hospital de
Verdaguer
Diagonal
Provena
2
Paral.lel
Torres i
Bages
Maragall
Grcia
Hospital
Clnic
Trinitat
Vella
Virrei Amat
Lesseps
Urgell
Poble
Sec
Via Julia
Liucmajor
Vilapicina
Vallcarca
Casa de lAigua
11 4
Trinitat Nova
Canyelles
3
Horta 5
Penitents
Pdua
Mundet
Valldaura
Sant Gervasi
Les Corts
Plaa del
Centre
Entena
Florida
Badal
Torrassa
Plaa de
Av
Sants
Carrilet
Santa Mercat
Sants Estaci
St Josep Eulila Nou
Tarragona
Rocafort
Hostafrancs
Gornal
Ildefons
Cerd
lau
Av. del
Tibidabo
El Putxet
Sarri
Ciutat Meridiana
Montbau
Vall d'Hebron
Plaa del
Funicular
Cornell Centre
Sant
5 Gavarra Ildefons
Can Cuis 11
Peu del
Funicular
FGC
Connection with RENFE
L'Hospitalet
Sitges
Vallvidrera Superior
Tibidabo
FGC
Funicular (Tram)
Cable Car
Interchange station
Tramvia B
& Vilafranca
Line 1
Line 2
Line 3
Line 4
Line 5
Line 11
Tramvia Blau
Bess Mar
Sant Roc
Pep
Ventura
2
Gorg
El Maresme
Forum
Ciutadella
Vila Olmpica
BARCELONA TRANSPORT
Sant Sebasti
Useful stuff
Finding an address
C/Picasso 2, 4 means Picasso street, number two, fourth floor;
you might also see esquerra (left-hand apartment/office) or
dreta (right). The main abbreviations used are: Avgda. (for
Avinguda, avenue); c/ (Carrer, street); Pg. (Passeig, boulevard);
Bxda. (Baixada, alley); Ptge. (Pasatge, passage); and Pl. (Plaa,
square).
Museu
Palau
Parc
Platja
Rambla
City information
Turisme de Barcelona t 807 117 222
(or t 932 853 834 from abroad),
w www.barcelonaturisme.com.
The city tourist board.
Ajuntament de Barcelona
t 010, w www.bcn.es.
The city council.
Museum
Mansion/palace
Park
Beach
Boulevard
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