Lm AP YYUlm

LjVp
Nn\ I & II

RtLp
UpX CWiPm Bi

RrS AW
CXYNl TPp YZem
hPjur YPlThP
(tT]d Au)

iPU J TYfNVp
iPU J Tet\m
iPU URjRuUVt\ NVp

RrShl
TPp LZLm
Lpf NX, Nu] - 600 006.

 RrS AW
RtTl - 2011

jRXYo

]Yo ( U ) G. xQTn,
RXYo, U]Vp \,
TWVo Utm \RXYo,
Ls Utm BPYYUl \,
A]eLm LoX TpLXLZLm,
LVmjo 641 043.

XVoLs
]Yo K. Xx
CQTWV,
Ls Utm BPYYUl \,
A]eLm LoX TpLXLZLm,
LVmjo 641 043.

]Yo N. Y W_
CQTWV,
Ls Utm BPYYUl \,
A]eLm LoX TpLXLZLm,
LVmjo 641 043.

]Yo S. AmNU
CQTWV,
Ls Utm BPYYUl \,
A]eLm LoX TpLXLZLm,
LVmjo 641 043.
M. M. CWUXh,
LX BV,
_nLTp LWV AW
ULo UpXlTs,
LmTdLm,
Nu] 600 092.

I. WN- U,
RtLp BV,
WNuP`u LuYuh TiLs
UpXTs,
LVmjo.

TPeLs RVl : RrS AWdLL

TsdLp CVdLLm, RrS
Ckp 60 .Gv.Gm. Rp AfPlThs[
Yl BlNh \p AfhPo :

T[PdLm
RXl

TP Gi
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

TdLm Gi

T I
V olTjRp
Lp NVUtRp Utm AfRp
mT El]o EPLdL] Th_h Utm AXU hPPp
BPL[ RokRjRp
BPL[ YYUjRp

1
8
24
33
49

7.
8.
9.
10.
11.

T II
L[ LiPRp Utm BP EYdLjp
TVuTm AlTP RVpLs
p UV YjRp, jRp, YhRp
U YWlTPeLp jRp
ThPLm, AXeLW fLm
BPu \lTUl
BP EYdRd L[ Ro NnRp

80
95
118
126
142

12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.

T III
BVjR BP, RVXP Utm hp RdLlThP BPLs
BPL[ TLjRp Utm TWUjRp
BP YTm
BP YYUlp Lu Te
[mTWm
Rp ]Yo RXU UmT

158
166
189
201
210
216

6.

71

Nn\ I
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

UVo Wd
Vd lWd
YhPVdPu, AmlWpX vLoh lWd
AW TYP
[u NhP
NR N
LhN

228
231
234
237
239
242
245

Nn\ II
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

`ohv
Noh
T_U
LRo lT
Ro ThPm
Ro Pl
vXd `oh

248
252
256
258
262
265
269

T - I
1. V oTjRp
uW
RL EYdLlThP Ls, BXp Ck YYmT Wd NWdLs
(Greige goods) ApX W NWdLs Gu AZdLlTu\]. C Ls W
\jPu ClTR dL. NRWQUL RVlp \T\R L[V
C dm. NWdLs RVlp \ T\ TpY NVpTL[ LPk
YkRp UhU TVuTht ELkRRL Cdm. u Rt\m oNn \
Tm T X Ut\eL[ AP\. R EQo, ARu TVuT Utm ARu
EZdm\u.
1.1. SN NnVlThP Ls u YLLLl dLlThs[]

YiQ pL[p SN NnVlThP .

LuYoPh

o NnVlTPUp \T\ Rk SWVL RVW Ym Ls

W Gu AZdLlTu\]. CkR V] JeLt\ \p
RVdLlThP pL[p RVdLlThPY. W p J T UhU NkRd
tT]d AlTlTu\]. GgV Ut\Y o NnVlThP u NkRp UdLu
TVuTht tT]d AlTlTu\].
LuYoPh

Rp UVL T\R L[, oNn T\f Nn Ut\m

HtTjRlThP Ls LuYoPh Ls Gu \lTu\].
YiQ

pL[p SN NnVlThP :

YiQ pL[p BXLs/RLp SN NnVlTh \ YiQ Ls

LPLd SWVL tT]d AlTlT\.
1.2. oNn \NnRp C YLL[L dLlThs[]:
1.2.1. AlTP oNnRp, 1.2.2. TVuTh] Tj oNnRp
1.2.1. AlTP oNnRp

AlTP oNnRp \p C YLLs Es[]. AY, A) Lid Rm

YiQm oNnRp, B. Rh EQWd V YLp oNnRp
A. Lidj Rm YiQm oNnm Y \Ls u YY]:
1) lfe: J YiU \m TYRt o NnVY ApX UtTWlp
AXeLW AUl NnYRtm lfe XUL A]j CVtL \eL[m
p Ck ALt\ Yim. kRV RVl NVpThu T HtThP \
Ut\eLs ApX L\L[ dL lfe RYlTm. Z Xm,
1

EYdLlThP Lm lfe NnVXm. Lp Es[ \jR dYRt

RkR lfe ThL[] BdPe ApX Whe YlTuLs
TVuTjRlTu\]. Tj, LmT Utm Thj Lp lfe NnVlT\.
UR]p RVdLl ThP Ls CVtLVLY YiUVL ClTRp lfe
RYl TYpX. EYdLjt TVuTjRlThP u CZ YLV
Tj WNV] YLm TVuTjRlT\.
ii) UoNWe: Tj Ls RVdLlTm NVpThp UoNWe Lm

dVU]. ]u Ls WdLl TYRtm UoNWe TVuT\. UoNWe

NVpThp V] Vm kR NVm ahWd^ LWNp 70 - 80oF
YlTXp Cj dLlT\. RhPV], dLlThP, SP Tu\ Tj
CZL[ UoNWN`u NnYRp YhPYYUL ElTf Nn [jm ALdLf
NnVlT\. CVtL CZL[ P CkR CZLs AL T[lT[lPm, AL
YUPm 20% ALjm LQlTm. NVm Lp Ht\lTYR UmTjR
UoNWe NnVlT\.
iii) YhRp (Shearing): Tp SN]p EY] Ls Utm TWlu

hd Lidm pLs LjRdLlTYm, YZdLUL YhPlTh, Ld

LYofV] Y[Y[lT] UtTWlT Ldm. UtTWlp HtTm JeLt\ p
CZL[ d NUuTj, UX hd Li Cdm pL[ Yhm NVm
NnVlT\. Cu] YLp TpSNp ULs YhPlTh vLplPo
[ HtTjRlTh AL Utm \kR UtTWl XL[ HtTj\.
Zm E[L[m, Yhm adLp [L[m LiP CVkWju
Xm YhRp NnVlT\. CqVkWju NVpT pYp p Yhm
CVkWjR Jj Cdm. YhPlThP \, p Es[ p Utm
YhPlThP p CZLs R]LY CVem Np jRm NnVlT\.
iv) ue: J LWWpXUp YZYZlTL oNnVlTP YiU]p, ue

GuT J RuUV] CuVUVR NVpTPm. ue uh, pLs, RX

Utm CZLu Ls BVYt\ Gj h, \ NUU] YZYZlT]
UtTWlT HtTjm. ARt \ Afm NVpT ApX \ m oNnm
NVpTLs \VL NnVlTm. dW L[ C To]oLs Es[ Y wYX
Up 100 Rp 250 VoL[ (90-225 hPo) J Pjp NjRXm. Ls
To]oL[ h ALu\m Rip S]j, YVt EXW Yj Yo.
v) he (Beetling): ]u L[ RVdm NVpThp TY] oNnRp

\V he Bm. LhPL[p ZLs AdLlTh RhP BdLlT\.

CqY Nnu\ T PUL, RhPVL, YLm, T[T[lTLm Rum.
U_d TVuTjRlTm ]uLs UhU h e NVpTht
EhTjRlT\. BPLd TVuTm ]uLs he NVpTht
EhTjRlTYpX. he LXiPep Ck UThP.
vi) PuPe (Tentering) : oNnm NVpTh Xp PuPe NnVlT\.

YZdLUL PuPods NjRlTm T Ls DWUL Cdm. EXWfNnRp

Utm ALXjR WL YlT BVY PuPe NnYRu AlTP SdLUm.
2

PuPo NhPjp C pXR NeLs [UL AUdLlTh Cdm. C

NeLdm CPV Es[ ALXjR hPY, \dLY Nnm YLp
AUdLlTh Cdm. NeLp Es[ lLs Utm uLs u
LWlTV (selvedge) AjRUL jdLsm YLp AUdLlTh, V
E[ YVL NjmT YlT WV] u r Ck NjRlTh
p Es[ DWjR ALt\. FLs (pins) Es[ NhPeLs (frames) ASLUL
LmTLs Utm u]lThP (knitted) Lp TVuTjRlT\. X NUVeLp
Lu LWlTp FLs jRlThPRp HtThP [Ls ApX lLs
TVuTjRlThPRp HtThP APV[m LQlT\.
vii) LXiPe (Calendering) : LXiPe GuT Cv Cm NVpTPm. CR]p
Ls ULt\lTh Rt\Udm. GqYL oNnRp RYlT\R
ARtLt\Y LXiPe NnVlT\. LXiPoLs GuT] AL GPs[
\kRThN C E[L[p NnVlThP CVkWeLs Bm. Ju TYL
odLlThP vXm, Ut\u UWm, TlTo, Tj CZ, N[ E ApX
Tj Utm N[E NokR LXY Tu\ UuUV] T[m. E[Ls
[Ydp AUVlTt\ NhPeL[p ReLlTu\]. NRWQ LXiPo E[Lp
H E[Ls AUdLlThdm - Su vp E[Lm, u N[ E
ApX Tj E[Lm Cdm. vp E[Ls Y ApX W XUL
PdLlTu\]. LXiPe CVkWm NVpThd Li Cdm T
V] E[u CPV HtTjRlTm CPY YVL NjRlT\;
NWNVL 150 L_m (135) Ls J Pjp 40 Rp 60 PuLs AjRjp
LXiPe NnVlT\. \ Ls CVkWju u]p t\lT\.
viii) Uno \p oNnVlTRp (Moire Finishes): LYofLWU], T[T[lT],

AXAXV] NuL[ Uno Bm. Uno NuLs GuT] pVUL

UtTWlp PdLf NnYRm, ApX L[ YLPu V E[Lds
Nj AjRm LlTRm RVdLlT\. l SNj L[ E[Ld
Ujp Njm T \kR Uno Nu [L[ HtTju\]. CkR
YYUlLs E[Vp CZV EVoj PdL Nn AfPlTYRm.
Nu LLp J TWlTlTh T[T[lT] Rt\m HtTjRlT\.
ix) Wve (Pressing): LmTj Lu UtTWlp Es[ UZL[ ALt\

Ajm \ TVuTjRl T\. Wve \ LXiPe \V Jjdm

x) GmTe (Embossing): YlTlTjRlThP E[Ld CPV L[

Nj Nu u UtTWlp \ TLjR P EVok Ru\f Nnm

NVpTP GmTe Bm. CfNVpT LmTj Vj RW Ut\ A]j
YL Lm NnVlT\. GmTeLp \ NnVlThP Lp
GmTeL TLdL L[ YYlT] RU] Nl p S]j,
NXY Nn, YWf NnVUp, u Es TdLjp DWUL Cdm
Xp AjRm LdL Yim.
xi) Wl Utm esh [ (Crepe and Crinkled Effect): SN NVpThu

T AjRUL dLlThP ZL[l TVuTjm T WkRWU] Wl

3

[L[l T\ m. J WUl \p dLeLs \kR []

TdLlThP E[L[ TVuTjm T x TlTp SLjRp V
Tu\ Rt\m AUlT T\ \. RPo NXYL[p CkR AUl XVt
U\k \. UtU WUl \p Lvd NPY TVuTj Tj
p RYlTm EYm ApX L YYeLp Nu TPXm.
\ NXY NnVlTm. Lvd NPYl TVuTj Nu NnVlThP
CPeLp dLeLs HtThm Ut\ CPeLs TdLoL[Lm Bu\].
SXu Tu\ C[m RuU LiP Lp WkRW dLeL[ T\
m. YlTU] Nt EVokR EY Nu LiP E[LdPV
NjRlTmT Ls C[ AkR NuLs Lp EYL ER\. Ut\
\ CPeLp TdLo EY\.
B) Rh EQWdPV o Nnm \Ls: (Finishes that appeal to touch): X o
Nnm \Ls Ld RuU, GPV ALjRp, UPUPl
Utm YYlT] RxQm Tu\ Ut\m HtTj ClTR Rh EQWd
V o Nnm \Ls Gu AZdLlT\.
i) Sle (Napping): Sle GuT [U] UZ UtTWlT TYRtLL

dVUL TVuT\. B]p [U] UZ UtTWlT TYRt, GqYLV]

Rt hTm TVuTjRlT\ GuT Lm dVm. LdL[ ]Lp
LiP EXL LmL[ EPV E[Ld Ap NjRlT\.
LdLs u UtTWlT NUUd CZLu ]L[ ZLp Ck
Cdm T RYt\ \Rp p HtT\. Sle Xm p
EYm Cfo AUl V UuUV]RL, YYlT]RL, oReLd
VRLm Bd\.
ii) GPV ALjRp (Weighting) : X EXL EldLPu Noj Th u

GPV ALj, Aju UlT EVoj\oLs. EXL Eld LWNp

Es[ p ThP rL Nn Thj u GPV ALdLXm. Th
ZLds Eld LWNp Ff Nu, u WkRW AeLUu\].
B]p ThjV Rh EQm T Eld LWNp Fs[R Li
dL CVX. Thu GPV ALUdL AL EXL El TVuTjRlTh
CkRp Sk m.
iii) Lg TRp (Starching): U, Lu, vPof Utm LUi (Clay)

BV] Tj Ld GP ALl, Wlj RuU Utm T[T[lT]

Rt\jR HtTjR TVuTu\]. vPofN u Up TWlV \ C
E[Ld CPV NjRlT\. Um, GiQm vPof WYjPu
Ju\Ld LXk d Tm T T[T[lT] Rt\jR Lp LQXm.
Lg TRp GuT RtLL \Vm.
iv) NuTWe (Sanforizing): So CZLs, p CZL[L tLlTm T SN

NVpThp TX \Ls CdLlTu\]. ZLs \t\ XV APk

VL RVdLlTh o NnVlThP NVpThp, dLeLs HtTYR
\lTRtLL okR p r YdLlT\. Ls eYR CZu
4

Xlj RuUm, EYdRm, LhTjRd V LWL[m. SN

\, Zu d, u GidL, Utm Zu GidL
BVYt\f NokR Ls EYdLlTu\].
u iP Gj, A[k, p rLf Nn, p dLm
HtTYR LQdPXm. P] CVkWjts NjRlTh, RYV]
A[t eL YdLlT\. CY NuTWe Bm.
1.2.2. \lf o Nnm \ ApX RlThP TVuTht o NnRp:
RlThP TVuTht L[ o NnYR \lf o Nnm \Ls
Gu Yo.
A) Egm o Nnm \ (Absorbency Finishes): Tj, ]u, WVu BV
NpXv CZLs W Su Eg]m X NUVeLp Cum AL A[p
EgRp AYVU\. AUVm LXYLPu Nm T NpXv CZLs
Ut\lTh, Cum AL A[p Egm RuUV AP\. CkR Egm
RuUV] AL N[LoV BPLs Utm Es[PLs, iLdm Lm
CuVUVR Bm.
B) dLeL[ Rdm o Nnm \Ls (Wrinkle Resistant Finishes):
CkR \p o NnVlTYR dLeLs Rodm ApX NXY Nn ARp
o NnRp Gum \Xm. DMDHEU - PjRp PahWd Gju VY
TVuTj Lp dLeLs HtTPUp TLdL TVuTjRlT\. Cm\p
oNnRu dV SdLm VRp Lp HtTm mTjRLR Utm
RYu HtTm UlLs, dLeLs, LNeRp Tu\YL[ RlTR Bm.
X o Nnm \Ls dLeL[ RolTY. B]p, X oNnm \Lp
L[ AkR \ dLm HtTPRY CdL JeLL ReLPlTP Yim.
C) Sl wYXVp AVR RuUPu oNnRp:
Ls Sl
wYXVp AVR RuU T\ WNV]m TVuTj o NnVlT\. CkR
WNV]m Ls Utm CZSoLp NodL Yim G] EYdLlThs[.
LoT]h Utm AUVm EldLs TVuTj Ls Sl _YXp
AVR RuUPu CdLf NnVlT\.
D) Lp Ck Rj o Nnm \: Ld WNV]
SV] NhPNu TVuTjm T p L[ ALt\f Nn o
NnVlT\. Lu Rt\m Utm RRuU GkR Ut\m APVUp
Cdm. GkR J WNV] UQm CdL. EXo NXY NnYRp oNnRp GkR
YLm TdLlTYpX.
E) Up hp Ck RjRp (Prevention of Milddew):
NpXv SZLs Up hYp TlTPm. Th Utm LmTm
KW[t TlTPm. lhP LXjt DWlTRm Es[ Xp Ls
CdUV]p gNL[p TlTPk, oUQm HtTh, p L\m
HtThm.
5

Lp Wf XLs ApX \ Tj Ls Up hYp

TlTPVUp CdL, V Nl p rLf Nn, u AXNUp, Td
AXm Utm LoTd AXdLWNp rLf NnVlT\. ClTf NnYRp
Up h gN Y[WUp RodLlT\. 0.05% ]p Uodd APh
LWNp od LXYV]. Up hY Rdm dV LW Bm.
F) o LRY CdL o NnRp (Water repellency finishes): u AjRm
Utm Pu Es[ LXjRl Tjm, RiW EgNm,
FYRXm lhP LXjt RolTU o s LRY Cdm
Vm. ASLU] o LdL NnVlThPYLs WlTo, ULs Utm
BdLWQm APkR GiQnLs BVYt\ Al\lTj T]p [W
[vd TVuTjRlTh NnVlT\. \Y] NX NnVlTh, L \kR
GPPu Es[ o LRY \ NnVlThs[ BP RVlLs EjmT
AN[LoVm HtTju\].
G) W EgNUp CdL oNnRp (Water proof finishes) : J W
EgNUp ClTRt, p LWVR J T[d Li YUL p NnV
Yim. RtLXjp W EgNUp CdLf Nnm ThLs ]p WuLs
- BdLWQm APVUp WlTo Tp [ TPUm Cdm.
W
V olTjYRp SU EQoLs EVojRlTh, Lp T[T[lPu
GP hPlTh, \Y] RuU HtTh, UuUVdLlT\. C
RtLLU]RLY, WkRWU]RLY Cdm. CqY\L u EZl\u
jR XljRuU BVYt\ UmTjR L[ olTjRp TVuT\.
]dLs
I.

NV] PVj RokRdLm

1.

L[ oTjYRp Lp _______________ Ut\m HtT\.

A) Rt\

2.

B) dLlThP

B) UR]p RVdLlThP
D) TVvPo

_______________ Ld NnVlTm dV NVpT UoNWe Bm.

A) Th

4.

D) A Utm B

_______________ Ld lfe RYlTYpX.

A) CVtLV]
C) NVtLV]

3.

C) NVtL

B) SXu

C) WVu

D) Tj

Up h o AUjRX RlT _______________

A) YWv

B) TdV

C) dLeL[ RjRp

D) NXY Nn ARp

5.

o EgRX RlT GuT_______________

A) o LRY NnRp

B) o EgNUp CjRp

C) dLeL[ RojRp

D) NXY Nn ARp

II. C UlTi ]dLs

1.

dW YWV

2.

LuYoPh : YWV

3.

GmTe [dL.

4.

o EgNUp CdLf NnRX [dd

5.

Lp Ck Rj oNnm \ Gu\p Gu]?

6.

NuTWe YWV.

7.

Sle Gu\p Gu]?

8.

he oNnRu LWQj] [dL.

III. 5 UlTi ]dLs

1.

L[ oTjRp Utm L[ SN Nnm YLL[ [dL.

2.

lfe Utm UoNWeL [dL.

3.

ge, PuPe Utm AjRp j l GL.

4.

Sle Utm dLeL[ RodL WlTjRX [dL.

5.

Up hY RlTRtm, NXY Nn oTjRX jm lTL.

6.

Sl _YXVp AVR RuUV oNnRX [dL?

IV. 10 UlTi ]dLs

1.

Lid Rm YiQm o NnRX [d ARu YLL[ [dLm.

2.

Rh EQWdV YLp o NnRp Utm ARu YLL[ [dLm.

TpLs
1. A

2. A

3. D

4. C

5. D

2. Lp NVUtRp Utm AfRp

uW
NVUtRm, AfRm, Lu AZL hYRtLL YiQeL[ Noj
p NnVlTm NVpTPm. Ld YiQjR HtYRt uTt\lTm
\V Tj NVUtRm, AfRm YT\. NVm NVpThp,
CZ, u Z BV] NV Xl ThLp r YdLlTh CZLp
NVm Ht\lT\. J U YYUl ApX Nu TYL u Up
Ju ApX ARt UtThP YiQfNVeL[ TNVL TVuTj AfPlT\.
2.1 NVju YLlTLs
NVeLs CVtL Utm NVtL NVeLs G] CWi YLL[L dLlTh
Es[].
A. CVtL NVeLs GuT] RYWeLs, XeLs Utm RdLs BV up
Ckm T\lTu\].
RYW

NVeLs: 4000 BiLd u, GlVoLs CiL NVeL[l

TVuTj Es[]o. CiL NVm lhP RYWju Ri Utm CXp
Ck GdLlThP. Yl \jR EgNd V UPo (Madder plant ) RYWju
YoLp Ck ANu NVm GdLlThP. (Log wood )UWjp Ck GdLlThP
UWjiLp Ck Th Utm Tj Lp Ll \m LdL Xdh
NVeLs GdLlTu\].
Xe]f NVeLs : LdVp NVm GuT LdLv LdP Gu\ fk
GdLlThP. Ti C] fL[ Lu \ NVm GdLlT\. Yl Utm
BWg \eL[ Th Utm LmT Lp HtYRt CfNVeLs TVuTu\].
Kh uLp Ck Vu Tols (Tyrian Purple ) NVm RVdLlT\.

NVeLs : CVtL RdLp Ck X YLV] NVeLs Pdu\].

ERWQm: CmPu V Yo UgNs \m.
B. NVtL NVeLs : 1856p XdL Rp Ck NVtL NVm Ru Rp
GdLlThP. \ AL GidLp NVdLXYLs XdL Rp Ck
RVdLlTh, AZV YiQjR T\ UmTjRlTh, YiQm Xj CdU
NnVlT\. AY u YY]Ym.

SW

NVm ApX El NVm : SW NVm Xe] Utm RYW C]

Ld Ht\lT\. B]p TYL TjLd UhU Ht\lT\,
CY SW Tj NVm Gu \lT\. CfNVeLs p LWVd V].
CY AUuLs Utm ]pL[ RuUl ThL[Ld Li
RVdLlTu\]. NVd LWNp R[ El NodLlTYRu LWQjRp CkR
SW NVeLs, Elf NVeLsGum AZdLlTu\]. Um Ad AXm
Utm NVm PWUh LWNPu EhTjRlThP NVpThu Xm NXY
8

Nnm T NVm eYpX. NV YiQeLs J]p JW[Y TlTPm,

NXYp AL TlTPYRp WLNm \k Cdm.
LWf

NVeLs : Rp XdL Ro NVm GuTR LWf NVeLs Bm. LU \

LW EldL[ LWf NVeLs. Th Utm LmTp AL WLNjR AdLd V
YLp LWf NVeLs EYdLlThs[]. LWfNVeLs GuTY So AV
NVeLs Gum \lTu\]. UoPih, Pd AXm BV] LWfNVeL[m.
TjLd, ]u, APh, SXu, TVvPo Utm AddLs
TVuTjRlTu\]. CkR NVm AZV YiQjR Ldm, B]p V K,
NXY Utm VoYVp TlTPV.

AXf

NVeLs : AXf NVeLs GuT] NVm ApX LpVm EldLu

YiQLU AXeLs Bm. CY LmT Utm Th p ASLUL
TVuTjRlTu\]. AXf NVeLs X \kRY Utm JVp
TlTPVRY. B]p NXYVp TlTPm. LWjPu Nl NodLlTh
TVuTj]p Lp \ Ut\m HtTm.

UoPih

ApX Wm NVeLs : NVm ApX ThPVm PWUh

UoPiP] NVjRhp NodLlT\. CkR UoPiP Ut\ \ NVeLPu
CQk Lds Ff Npm. LmT p NVm HtYRt UoPih
NVm TVuT\. Um Tj p AfYRtm TVuT\. CkR UoPih
NVeLs JVp, NXYVp, VoYVp TlTPYpX.

EYdLlThP

NVeLs : CfNVpTht Lp AlTPVL J NVm

Ht\lThjRp Lm AYVm. CkR NVpTht \ PANPe NVpT
SPT\m. AlT NVm WNV] Ut\jtL EhTh V WNV]eLPu
NR]d EhTjRlT\. CY EYdLlThP NVeLs G]m
AZdLlT\. UV] NVm CqY EYdLlT\. EYdLlThP
NVeLs NXYL[p TlTPYpX H]p CY, ZLds Ff
NpU RVdLlT\.

Np@To

NVeLs : CY p LWV. Utm CfNVm Lvd NPYm,

NVm Np@ThPm TVuTjm T LW\.

1879 Bm Bi Ru Rp NpTo NVeLs RVdLlTh Tj Utm

]u Ld TVuTjRlThP. CfNVeLs. NXY, J, VoYVp
TlTPYpX, B]p [u A[ ALlTVmT p NVjR
Gj\.
YhNVeLs

: Rp Yh NVU] CiL 1879p EYdLlThP. Tj,

]u, WV] Tu\ Ld YhNVeL[ Xj CdLd VY. J,
AXm LWm Utm BdLWQ YlTuL[p Yh NVeLs TlTPYpX.
Yh NVeLs GuT] LWVR \Ls, B]p NVm ahWd^p
EYdLlThP ahWNpTh Tu\ APokR \lTuL[ TVuTj, p
YhNVjR LWdLXm.
9

V] CdLWNp rLfNnVlT\. LtPu RPo HtTm T

ApX BdLWQ Rhp (TWUh) rL Ydm T NVm LWVR
Xp SZVL Cd\.
]m

NVeLs : CY 1957p EYdLlThP]. SZ XdLPu

] k CfNVeLs J WNV]d LXYV EYdm. CfNVeLs RuRp
NpXv SZLdLL YYUdLlThP]. B]p RtT LmT, Th, SXu,
AddLs Ut\m CkR CZL[ JuQj EYdLlThP SZLdLLm
YYUdLlThs[]. J Utm NXYVp TlTPVUp ClTR ]m
NVeL[p HtTu\ SuUL[m. CkR NVeLs BrkR JdL \eL[
LdLd V].

NVeLs : CY EiUV] NVeLs ApX H]p \NVeLs

CZLPu Qk ClTpX Utm CZLd NVm Ht\lTmT p
WuLPu Qk Cdm. \ AL YlTjp N NnVlT\. \eLs,
YV \eLs, TfNu\ EXL \eL[] Tu \m TmTm Tj
Lp TVuTjRlT\. B]m LmT Utm UR]p RVdLlThP
SZLm TVuTjRlTu\].

\Ut\

NVeLs JfNYp TWY] (Optical brighteners) : CfNVeLs

lWNuh YlTuLs ApX JfNYp TW] BLdV] Gu
AZdLlTu\]. CkR Ys[ \m, \ FR J EgNlTYRm, X \m
Go JjRp XULm HtT\. Tj, AddLs, LmT, APh Utm
SXu. BV]Yttm JfNYp TW] RVd V. CYt\ YdLf
Nnm Tm, Wu Li oNnm um ApX W] TVuTjm
Tm NVpTjRl T\.
2.1.1. Lp NVm Htm T Es[ TpY XLs
Ls EYdLlTm XL[] CZp Ck VL EYdLlTm
XX ApX X BPLs EYdLlTm T Lp NVm Htm T
rYm \Ls uTt\lTu\].

vPd

Pe : GuT Tj CZLs tLlTYRt u NVm Ht\lTYRm.

LhLhPL YdLlThP CZLs TpLp Ck GdLlTh TV YhL[L
LhPlTh NVd LWNp EVo YlT Xp YdLlT\. Lm X EVokR
Utm \kR NVm Htm \V] vPd Pep, \U] CZLds
Ff Npm. B]p EP]VL CZs \m H\. vPd P NnVlThP
CZL[ EP]VL NVUt\lTPR CZL[l Tp tL V H]p
vPd P NnVlThP CZLp CRuU \k m. B]p J X YZYZl
Tdm GiQn TN T[ C Xp Noj CVp Xdd Li
YWXm.
Pl Pe : LmT BP RVdm RtNXLp Pl Pe
TVuTjRlT\. Pl GuT LmT Lp Ck YWlThP LmT

10

CZV 1 Cgf (30 L]m) L Tu RVlTRm CkR Pl \

[PlThP NdLW E[Lp t\lTm, \ NVd LWNp AkR E[u
JW W] \p Ft\lT\. Cm\ NVm Ht\ \kR \Vm.

Z Pe (Yarn Dyeing) : Z Xp NVm Ht\lTYR Z

Pe G] \lT\. Zp NVm Ht\lThP Ls YZdLUL AjRU]
BZU] \PVRL Cdm. Z Xp NVm Ht\ AlTPd LWQm
Gu] Yp, TpY \ ZL[d Li mTjRdL LLs, LhPeLs
Utm [L[ SN NVpThp NnYR Bm. ERWQjt NmlWdLs
(Chambrays) YZdLUL hl Tdp Es[ YiQ CZ Utm Wl CZ Ys[
\U]RLm Li SnVlTYRm. \ ERWQeLs : LhPm ThP eLm,
`lTohLu LhPeLs, l[ Utm oNdLo.

Pe : Cm\p UjRUL Lp NVm Ht\lTu\]. v

Pe GuT tUL lLWU]. WL JW TWlTL Nn, FRp
Utm UjRjp \m Xj CdL NV] NVeLs TVuTjYR Jj
Cdm.

Ls JW YLV] CZVX ApX TpY CZL[ LXkR ApX

TpY ZL[ LXkR NnVlThkRp Lp v Pe NnVXm.
JW YLV] CZVp NnVlThkRp, Pe XTU]RL Cdm.
H]p J lhP NVm UhU TVuTjRlT\. V] TpY
YLV] CZL[p NnVlTh CkRp, lhP Nn\L[ TVuTj,
TpY CZLdj RkR NVeL[ RokRj NVPXm. AY Vu
Pe Utm dWv Pe Bm.
A. Vu Pe : TpY CZLd TpY NVeLs TVuTjRlTh
\kR \eL[ T\Xm JqY YLV] CZVm RkR lhP NVjR
LiP NVjRhp Th NVm Ht\Xm.
B. dWv Pe : TpY Y \Lp HRm J \p dWv Pe
NnVlT\. vPd Pe ApX Z Pe EPu Lp NVm Htm
\V RPok CQj NnY dWv Pe Bm.
LWN p

\ NojRp ApX Tn Pe : NWi Utm LiQ CZLs

Rp WVu YWV] URu RVdm Ld \ NodLlThP LWNp
ApX Pl Pe Gm NVpT TVuTjRl T\. Pl Pep,
vu]WhLs YVL CZLs (XUuhLs) Bm u PV] LWNp
NodLlT\. Cm\p \m AL LXm j Xj t\. Cm\p
SpX [Ls Pdu\].

Lp

NVRp : RVp NnVlTPR X YL L[] Es[PLs,

Tiav, vYhPoLs, \ Tt\ u NVPl T\. C Tu\ Ls
R[ojVL TV SXu YX u]p Tp TPlT\. \ TV]
11

TVNVj Rhp UhPWp CVdLlTh NVj Rhp ANY

HtTjm. p PVp TPlT\. Cm\p p NVUtRp GuT
dL] \ Bm.
FTWRX

Rj NVUtRp (Wvh Pe) : Cm\ NVRX

LX ApX BPLX NnVXm.
EYYeL[ LiP Lp TZeLXjp uTt\lTh NnVlTh YkR
NVUtm TX \L[ dm NpX Wvh Pe Bm. Cm\Lp
u A]j Tm NVm H\Up Rj ApX FTWRX Rj
(Wvh) EYYm Utm p AlTPV EYdLl TVuT\. TYL
U J X YL TN, ApX CVkWj]p FTWYX RdL V
LhYjRp ApX RjRp TVuTjRlTh NnVlT\. Ut\ FTWRX
Rdm \p WNV]jR J lhP NVYLp TVuTj Ut\ NVju
TVUp CdL NnVlT\. RtLXjp A]Ym AkR YLLs
PAi P Utm Thd WTXU]YVm.

P Utm P (Vd Lh NVRp) : L[ Lh NVRp

\p FTWRp Lp RPNnVlT\. u]XP ApX SN
NnVlThP Tj Lp YZdLUL To \eL[ TVuTj Lh NVRp
NnVlT\. _Wj Utm W_vRu TLp Lp Lh NVRp \
EYdLlThP. _nlo UdLm lTL CkRd LXp \u Tts[]o. Lh
NVRp V J Ud Ht\Y Uj, WlToTi ApX p Yj
Ajd LhP Yim. TpY YLV] NVeL[ TVuTjRXm. ASLUL
Vdq NVeLs TVuTjRlTu\].

Lh NVRp Gum hTU] \p jRU] TpY YiQUVU]

EY U YYeL[ Lp T\Xm. Ls LNeRp, UlLPu ApX
UjRp BV \p Lh NVm hTm TpY EU YYeLp
NnVlTh, Xp LhPlTh NVPlTYRp P Ai P (tie and dye) Gu
AZdLlT\. LhPlThP V] Yh NVjp r YdLlTh u
Yp Gj AXNlT\. p LhV Tp NVm H\Up RdLlT\.
DWU] p TpY Tp, TpY \ NVeL[ TVuTj TX
EYYeL[ (Nu) T\Xm. p LhPlThP TLs, Wt\ \p NVjR
UlLp HtdLi, UV] YThP EYW UL[ (patterns)
Tu\].
X Lhm \m TpY \Ls uTt\lTu\]. AY LLs
EPV Nu dLL, NejRL Utm UhPdLLs, fRp, YhP NuLs,
Uoe, W[fe, A]j Tm sLs, UeLn Nu, Nu
Tu\Y Bm.

12

Xp LhPlThP Ls

NVUtRp

P Utm P Ls

P Utm P -Noh

Thd (Batik)
.C FTWYX Rj NVRu Ut\ \Vm. Cp AfdLs Tu
EYW ULs (patterns) EYdLlTu\]. LhNVRp (tie and dye) Utm
Thdtm Es[ jVNm Gu]Yu\p u]p lhP T LhPlT\.
u]p p U NlT\. Thd Gm Np _Yp Ck T\lThP.
ARu Ts Ph (Tattoo). Thd NnVl TVuTjm YZYZlTLm
UpVRLm CkRp \lT] [] T\m. Th \kRRLm,
GVRLm LRlTh TVuTjRlT\. UuUV] Tj Utm BoLi
Lm TjRU]Y Utm \kRY.
Thd NnVlTYRt u Ls AXNlTh, Cv NnVlTP YiV
AYVUm. oUV] Tup Li N] u Up hWv Nn
Ls[m. TpY A[Lp Ls (Brushes) P] WY UL Nu
YRt RYlTm. Thd NnV RdLu U (Beeswax) \kR ULL
LRlT\. u V] NVPlT\. U NlThP Tp NVm
H\Up RP NnVlT\. \ NnVlThP YiQjp Ys[ \
N] T\\. X NUVeLp UL Xk YX TX UpV L
CZj NVUtmT UpV LL[ Roj NVm Ht\lTh V Nu
EY\.

13

LVp NnVlThP Thd

Thd NVUt\lThP

Thd AfWfX

2.2. AfRp
Lp AfYRp YiQ UVU] [L[ T\Xm. AfRp GuT
E YYeLp \eL[ TVuTjY Bm. AfRp, LVp ApX
CVkWju Xm NnVlT\. AfRd TVuTjRlTm NVeLs TN
Ep Es[].
2.2.1. AfRu YLLs
AfRp GuT A) LL[p AfRp, B) CVkWjRp AfRp
Gu YLlTjRlThs[].
A. LL[p AfRp
l[d

AfRp : Cm\ ] Utm CkVp CWiPWm BiLd

ukR TZdLjp Ck Y\. l[dLs UWjRp ApX UWm Utm
]Yp NnVlTu\]. EYYm 1/4 AeX L]jp TYL NdLlT\.
CqY YhPlThP ] i AR A[X] UWjip JhPlT\.
14

ASLU] AfYo UW [dLp EYYm NdLlThPYL[V

TVuTju\]o. YiQlTNp CkR [dLs r GdLlTh Lu
AjRlT\. CqY AjRlTm T YiQ EYYUlT Lp
T\ \. Rp J [dp J YiQlTNVd p AjRlTh
EXW YdLlT\. u Ut\ [dp Y YiQm LiP TN p
AjRlT\. CqY TX YiQ EYYUlL[ T\ \. CfNVpT
im im AkR Ym AfPlT\.
CfNVpT UY] Utm X Ul dLm Bm. JW W] AjRm
LjRpUhU Lp T\m. Ym YiQju YU JW
WL CdL.

UWjRp A] [dLs

AfPlThP Nu

vPup AfRp : Cm\ _lTp Ru RXL EYdLlThP. CRu

X Ul ALm BRXp, CkR vPup Afm \d dVjYm Aj
TVuTjY, LhlTjRlThs[. CkR \ AfRp, EYYU] Rp
LoTo, UWm, ApX EXLjp YhPlT\. vPup hTU] AZV
EYYm ApX TV CPY HtTjRlTh AL A[ YiQm Ff
NjRlT\. YZdLUL vPup EYYjp Ju ApX CWi \eLs
TVuTjRlT\. TYL [d AfRm TVuTjRlTu\ ALXm
\kR L[ vPup AfRp TVuTjRlT\. Cm\V] Lm
R]ULf NnVlTYRm.

LhTop N] YhY
15

p Nu

AfPlThP Nu
vu

AfRp ApX W AfRp : SpX EYnkR Th Xp

WLs RVdLlTh TVuTjRlTYRp, Wp AfRp Rp hTm
ThjWp AfRp G]d \lT\. Cu\V LXLhPjp SXu, TVvPo,
gf Utm EXLm BV] W AfRp TVuTjRlT\. W AfRp
RhPV] ApX E[ YY WLp NnVlTu\].
JqY W EYYm LVp YWVlTh, XdYo ApX \ FY
CVXR T[p EYYm ApXR TLp Wp NlT\. Cu EYYm
LlTPm GdLlTh \ SLq TVuTjRlTh JqY Wm EYYm
CpXR TLp JV Ff NpX PUp Rj \. \ JqY
Wm UWm ApX EXLf NhPjp TjRlT\.
Afm TN ApX NVm Wu Ft\lTh, Thj W YVL
EYYm Es[ Tp WlTo ]Pu V L Li VlT\
(TPm). \ NhPjR Gj u AjR Tp Yj EYYm T\
im TN TVlT\. YUL JW \m AfPlTm YW
CfNVpT RPok NnVlTm. CfNVpT EYYjp TVuTjRlTu\
JqY \jtm NnVlT\.
LVp W AfRp NnVlTYRp AL SWm B\. Um \kR
[U] 60 L_m (58 hPo) Lp NnVlT\. uNWjRp CVdLlTm
RVe CVkWeLs J U SWjp 450 L_eLs (400 hPo) [U] Lp
W AfRp Nn\.

WfXLs

AfPlThP Nu
16

B) CVkWeLs Xm AfRp

CVkW AfRp SW WXo AfRp, l[dv AfRp, vNow AfRp,

Wvh AfRp, dUuh AfRp, hWuvTo AfRp, ThP AfRp
Utm @l[d AfRp BV] Es[].
SW WXo ie : 1785p WXo ie EYdLlThP. TX BWdLQdL]
L_eLs YiQ EYYm (design) NnVlThP L[ Cm\ AfRu
Xm J U SWjp T\m.

CkR AfRp \p TX RW E[Ls ApX WXoLp EYYm

NdLlT\. EYYjR E[Lp NdL TX ShLs Gj Lsm,
YYm NdY Lm L]U] YXVm. B]p Cm\p AfRd
Ld\kR SWjR Gjd Lsm.
E[V] u ALXjR Jj Cdm. EYYjp GjR] \eLs
TuTjRlT\R AjR] E[Ls RYlTm. J E[Vp J YiQ
AfRX UhU NnV m.
E[ YY Afm CVkWm J TV UjV E[V Lidm.
AkR E[V t AfP YiV SLok Lidm. SLm Pu
E[m Zm. TX YiQ Afm E[Ls YqY YiQ \eL[
E[Lp Tt Cdm. AY u AjRlTh, u UjV E[
m AjRlTm J EYYUlp Ik \eLs CdUV]p, Ik
YiQeLPu Ik Afm E[Ls Cdm. JqY E[m RWjRp
NnVlTh lhP EYYm NdLlTh Cdm. YiQm ApX
NVeL[p \ NnVlThP E[Ls EYYUl E[LPu YdLlTh
lhP CP Y[Lp SLU AUdLlTh Cdm. Tu\
AUlPVl TVp NVU] EgNlTh, EYYm NdLlThP
E[Ld Ut\lT\.

E[YY Afm CVkWm

E[ CVkWjp AfPlThP
17

EYYUls[ E[d TdLjp TV Cm E[ ApX [ YY

E[p AfPlThP t\lT\. AfPlTP YiV d CRuU
LiP ToY RYlTm (dl u Pad TX) Utm dW NdLlThP
E[dm [ YY E[dm CPV NjRlTm. ToYV
TVuTjYRp SpX UhPjR HtTjm. AR]p RY] pVU] Af]
T\Xm. AfPlTm d u]p Es[ dW V] ALlTV] NVjR
Eg ToYV TLd\.
C Tu\ Afm CVkWeLp T]u E[Ls YW TVuTjRlT\.
AR]p T]u YiQeLp EYYUl UL[ (pattern) EtTj NnV
m. E[ Afm CVkWm Xm u J TdLjp UhU AfP
m
lXdv ie : CqYL AfRp u C TdLjm
AfPlT\. V] E[ Afm CVkWjs YqY NVpTht
NjRlT\. lXdv AfRp RY] GpXdL u C
TdLeLm HtTjRlT\.

AfPlThP Nu
vNow ie : BrkR \eL[ LiP Lp vNow ie
NnY ELkRRm. Lp Rp NVPlT\. \jR dLdV LdLpv
LiP J vNow TN TVuTjRlTh p AfPlT\. AkR CPm
Ys[ \UL Um. CqYL AfRp Tj Utm WVu Tu\ Lp
NnVlT\.

E[YY Afm CVkWm

18

AfPlThP Nu

Wvh ie : vNow iet Go U\V] Wvh ie.

CqYL AfRp, WvhTN Rp Ys[ p AfPlT\. \
V] NVPlT\. WuLs ApX LUi ApX Jhm TN (Gum)
Tu\ Wvh ThL[ TVuTjRlT\. EYY UV Wvh
T[d Li p AUj \ NVjp r YdLlT\. NVU]
WvhTs TVuTjRlTPR CPeLp UhU Ht\lTh Cdm. Wvh
Ts Es[ CPjp NVm H\Up Cdm. TpY NVm NVpTL[
LPkR u Wvh TN dLlT\. TN eV \ EYY UV (Pattern)
BrkR \ p TodL m.

dUih ie : Cp TVuTjRlTm NVeLs p LWVdVY

ApX. Um JVp TlTPVRY. CkR dUihLs YiQ Afm TNL[L
TpY ThL[ Noj NnVlTu\]. TNp TVuTjRlTm. Wu
GuT CQll T[Lm dUiPLm AfPlTm p
TVuTjRlT\.

Af CVkWm

AfPlThP Nu

hWuvTo ie : CfNVpThp, J X ThLs YlTlTjRlTm

T SWVL P Xp Ck B Xd Ut\lTh \ odLlTm
T SWVL PXd Ut\lT\. EYYU] J Rp AfPlTh
CVkWjs NjRlT\. YlT uUiPXjd Gjf NpXlT\.
NVU] BVdLlTh Rp T\. CqY\L NVU] Vm
EgNlT\.

Af CVkWm

AfPlThP Nu
19

ThP ie : CqYLp, p JVp TlTPVdV J

LdLp NlT\. EYYju (design) SLq u Up YdLlThP u,
J ARu U NnVlT\. SLqp Es[ EYYm p
AfPlTh \. \ AXNlT\. Ll, Ys[ EYYeLs
Utm YiQ EYYeL[ u AfPXm.

ThP Afm CVkWm NPu

@l[d ie ( Flock ie) : CkR Rp hTjp iV i
CZLs Jhd Li ClT @l[d G]lT\. CY Lp
EYYUdLlT\. RkR Jhm Tis[ T[ TVuTj, J
EYYU] E[Vp p AfPlT\. Tj, LmT, vLv WVu,
SXu ApX Add Tu\YLu CZ Lt\Ls (flock) Lu
TPlTh, RkR \p JhPlTh, Tp (Pile) Tp AUl EYdLlT\.
-YpYh - PdvhPoh Nu (Textured design)

@l[d id CVkWm

@l[d id

20

W
NVUtRp Utm Afm \L[p Ld Um AZh
ULt\lT\.
]dLs
I.

NV] PVj RokRdLm

1.

4000 BiLd u GlVoLs CR] TVuTj]o.

2.

A) Xdh NVeLs

B) CiL NVeLs

C) Vu Tols

D) R NVm.

LdVp NVm GuT Cp Ck GdLlT\.

A) f

3.

B) ANu

8.

9.

C) X

D) BP X

B) EXLm

C) WlTo

D) GpX

vPup AfRp Ce EY].

A) ]

7.

D) Yh NVm

Afm l[dLs CR]p NnVlT\.

A) UWm

6.

C) Wm NVm

vPd Pe GuT CkR Xp NnVlTm.

A) Z X B) CZ X

5.

D) Wm.

UoPih NVm GuT ClTm AZdLlT\.

A) SW NVm B) Elf NVm

4.

C) NVtLV] WNV]m

B) _Y

C) CkV

D) _lTu

W Afm RthTm CqY \lThP.

A) ThjWp AfRp

B) SXu Wp AfRp

C) TVvPo Wp AfRp

D) Vu Wp AfRp

CkR Afm \p 1000 L_eLs YiQ EYYUlPV L[ J

U SWjp EYdLXm.
A) l[d

B) SWVL E[Vp AfRp

C) LL[p Wp AfRp

D) GpX

BrkR \PV Lp Ys[ \ EYYeL[ CqYL AfRp

T\Xm.
A) l[d

B) E[

C) @l[d

21

D) vNow

10. CqYL AfRp, SLp Es[ EYYU] p AfPlT\.

A) ThP ie

B) @l[d ie

C) Wvh ie

D) Up \lThP um

II. LhP CPjR WlL

1.

NVRp GuT V] _______p rL YdLlTYRm.

2.

J Nu u Up AfPlTRp _______ G] AZdLlTm.

3.

CVtL NVeLs _______ Ck T\lTu\].

4.

SWf NVm GuT _______ Gum AZdLlT\.

5.

Rp XdL Ro NVm GuT _______ NVm Bm

6.

UoPih NVm GuT _______Gum AZdLlTm.

7.

l[d ie GuT J _______ Afm RthTm Bm.

8.

Wvh ie GuT _______ ieu GoU\V] Bm.

9.

_______ iep iV i CZLs Lp EYYjp Jh

ClTRm.

III. 2 UlTi ]dLs

1.

[d ie \V [dLm.

2.

RYW NVeLs Tt GL.

3.

Lp NVm Htm T Es[ TpY XL[l ThVL

4.

Pl Pe GqY NnVlT\?

5.

LWNp \ NojRp ApX Tl Pe Gu\p Gu]?

6.

UoPih NVeLs Tt GL.

7.

l[dv ie \V [dL.

8.

hWuvTo ie GqY NnVlT\?

9.

Ik YLV] CVkW ie \L[ ThV

10. @l[d (flock) ie GqY NnVlT\?

IV. 5 UlTi ]dLs
1.

NVeLs GqY YLlTjRlThs[]? CVtL NVeLs Tt [dL.

2.

CWi NVtLV] NVeLs Tt G.

22

3.

Zp NV UtRp GqY NnVlT\.

4.

Wp Afm Rp hTm Tt G.

5.

Lp WXo ie GqY NnVlT\?

T D

V. 10 UlTi ]dLs
1.

NVRXm, AfRXm YTjL. NVeL[ YLlTjCVtL

NVeLs Utm Ik NVtL NVeLs Tt [dL.

2.

Tj Lp NVRd RkR NVeLs Tt Yj [dL.

3.

Lp NVPlTm TpY XL[ GL.

4.

LL[p AfPlTRp RthTm Tt YL Yj G

5.

CVkWjRp Afm RthTm Tt Yj [dL.

TpLs
NV] PVj RokR
1. B

2. A

3. C

4. B

7. A

8. C

9. D

10. A

5. A

6. D

LhP CPjR WlL

1. NVlTs

2. AfRp

3. CVtL BRWeLs

4 El NVm

5. uRhd ApX NVtLV]

7. LL[p

8. vNow

9. @l[d

23

6. Wm

3. mT El]o EPLdL] Th_h

Utm AXU hPPp
uW
mT EPLdL] YPkW Th_hp dV AeLm YlTp EPLm
CPmTm. J mTju URkW YWL[m NXL[m ThVYR
mT Th_hPm. mT El]u GidL, ARu YU]m, ARu A]j
RYLs Utm mTm Ydm T BVYt\ Ljp Ls[ Yim.
uU RYL[ oj Nnm A[t AkR mTju YU]m CkRp
UhU Th_hP NYW NVpTjR m. V Th_hm AXU RYV
\Yt\ m. WR] AXUL[ YeL ]dmT A TpSd AmNeLs
LiPRLm, SLL RYL[ oj NnVdV AZL] AXUL[ YeLXm.
3.1. Th_h
YU]jRm, NXL[m LiP ThVX Th_h GuTRm. Nl
Utm NX]eLu hPUm. CWi ApX u ThLu YTjt
PVV] GjdLhu XUL dLU] T[RWju LjdL[ m
YYUm. T[RW RjYjYju Xm W] hPj]p ApTjRlTm
LhP[Ls Gum \Xm.
3.1.1. mT Th_hP YWVjRp
YU]jR oYLm NnYm TQjR NdLf NnYRtm dV LVL
[eY mT Th_hPm. URkW YU]jRm, NXL[m
LiLdm RYu AlTPp Th_h VRLm, Y]RLm
Cdm.
3.1.2. Th_hu StTVuLs
NXL[m, CXdLm NjVlTjR Th_h hPm ERm. Ut\
StTVuLs Z...
LiLjRp

: V Utm RXSd Nl dLu CXdLVPV

URkW NXL[ LiLdL Th_h ER\.

NXL[

Lhds YjRp : RodLd V NXL[ Lij Ak

AR Roj, dV RXSd NltL] CXdLVPV Th_h ER\.

SpYTjRp

: EP] BNLp lVPm U]lTuUV ALt\

ERm LVL Th_h Lm. (LPu AhP ETVdm \p). GkR T[,
GkR NUVjp YeLXm GuTR Th_h YWVd\.

CXdL

oQjRp : Th_h JYW CXdL APV ER\.

YeYRtL] NlLs, LP] APjRp, TsdL] NXLs, Knt \L]
hPeLs Cp APem. ClTThP CXdLs J SpX \UV] Th_hp
Es[Pem.
24

3.1.3. mT NXLs (YPkW (A) URkW)

Th_hp TQYW, TQNXY Lhm ALUL CdL Yim.
URkW (A-) YPkW NX]eLp rdLm 14 YLV] RYLu
NXL[ LY]jp Gjd Ls[ Yim.
EQl ThLs, U, , EPLs, TdYWj, LRWm/UjYm, T
Td, RlThPYu TWUl, TjdL TjRp, Lp, L/LX, \
NXLs, SuLPLs, LlLs, KnVm Utm CRW NXLs.
3.1.4. Th_h hPPp
UXhP

ToY : BW AUW EhLok mT Th_hP hPY Urf

HtTjm NVXpX Gu\Tm JYW VtVm GiQjRm TQjR
\VL oYlTp NXmT GoLX LxP SxPeL[ Yoj NnV
m Th_h TP Ltd Lsm Vtu Rp AVL Su SToL[
LiP mTju YU]jR \UVL oYlT GlT Gu Th_h
TYR jNjR]U]Rm. J \ Th_h Th A SP\p
uTt\lTh RpVPkkRp U\ Vt Nn NjVlTj mTjR
NV] X TRp AZjf NpXXm.
X 1 : XV] URkW NXL[ ThVPm. Cp URkW YPL (A)
APU] RL, uNW LhPQm, RXdLh CQl, EQ, RXT
LhPQm, LlLs, LPu APl UtmTdYWj NXLs APdLm, EeLs
ZkR TsX ApX ZkRLs LlTLjX CkRp AkR NXL[m
Nojd Ls[Xm. TZV Ye LQd ThVX Jlh LfNVL ThVPXm.

X 2 : LPkR 12 UR NXL[ jd Ls[m. YPjt J \

NnVlTm NXL[ jd Ls[m. TjLLdL] Bi NkR, f
Rl SPYdLLdL] LhPQm, LdL] TdLhPQeLs/LlLs,
El]dL] LhPQm, TsdPjp/LpLp Tdm s[LdL]
NXLs Utm CRW NXLs Cp APem. CkR A]j NXL[m h
AR 12 Bp Yj, URkW NWN NXY Lij AR URkW Th_h
NXp Noj ThVPm.
X 3 : UTm URkW NXL[ J TlTp jd Ls[m. TVYoLs
Utm YoLdL] EPLs, T TdLs, ahPp Nlm NXLs
Utm UTm NXL[ ThVPm. Nu\ YP NX]eL[ LY]jp
Yjd Li URm Rm NX YdLR Ts Bn P LhPQeLs,
[Vh/CN TPeLs Utm TlThLu NXL[m Nojd
Ls[m.
X 4 : UR UjR NX]eL[ UR YU]jPu JlPm. YU]jR
P NX]eLs ALUL Cdu\R ApX \YL Cdu\R GuTR
dLm. JqY NX Ym BWnk Ap HRY p NXY
\dL YiVR dLm. EeL[ ZkRLs YV okkRp AYoL[m
CkR LXkWVPp DTjRm.
25

X 5 : CkR UThP GidLVd Li UR Th_hP UTm dLm.

GoTWR NXL GoSdL Yep RVe Utm \X ApX Nl
LQdLV RPeLXm. TQ NlT J YZdLUL Ls[ Th_h ER\.
ZkRL[m AYoLd Pdm TQju J TV NdL FdLUeLs.
X 6 : UR Th_hP LiLdL TlT]YW Ro NnVm. GlTRY
J\ Ut\Yd AkR TlT Utd Lj CYm NX \L[
EQW YYjeLs. AdL NnVlTm RLYp TUt\m Th_h hPjt
JVtm.
X 7 : EQW \V (Envelope system) EYd LPu AhPV ETVdm
YZdLj] RdLXm. kRYW TU] NXLd WdLlTQm LlTR
YZdLUL Ls[Xm. XV] NXLd TQm LjhP uRu XVt\
NXLd GqY[ TQm fNm Cdu\ GuTR] LQdPm. JqY
dL] NXL[ TTd, EPLs, ahPp EQ, L Utm
Tl ThLs BVYttL] NXL[ RR E\p Th Yjd
Ls[m. AkR RR E\p TQm okhPp AkR p AkR UR
NXL[ UtLs[ P.
jU

lLs Utm GfNdL : UuT[ TVuTj Th_hP

S\ TjRm. RVe \p LP] APdL Y]eLu ERV
SPXm. ThlT] ApX LXkRYV LPuL[ APdL LPu AhPL[
TVuTjRdP. ZkR LdL] Nl LQdL BWmdLm. Rt\
ApX \ ShL[ LdL RVL J V HtTjd Ls[m.
X WfN]L[ NUdL SmTLU] SiToLPU ApX BXNLoLPU
BXN] T\Xm. LPu AhPLu Xm HtThP LP] Ju\dRp P.
Nlj hPeLu LhPQeLs Utm NXL[ BWnk NnVm.
3.1.5. mTju EPLdL] Th_h
ZkRLu C[UdLX Y[ofu YLm ALlTVp mT EPLu
Th_h ALUL Cdm.
uVN]um, iRp LWQULm YeYR LhlTjRm.
EPLu RY L L AYVm Gu\ RQjp Uhm YeLXm. HtL]Y
AXUp Cdm BPLPu JjlTm dV BPL[ Uhm YeY
\kR. CR]p TpY SLL Rjp AVXm.

TYLX u T tT] NnVlTm U tT]V TVuTj

oLX AeL[ YeLXm. Uof ApX HlWp UR Cp LPLX
EPLm, BLvh Utm NlPmTo UR Cp LPLX EPLm RWlTm
75% RsTV TVuTjd Ls[Xm. Cm\p Yem EPp, PX
Utm okR ZkRL[p CXTjRm, YoL[p AYoLu AR Y[ofu
LWQUL CXTU, SxPU Gu\ VR Wm APVXm.
V BPL[ YeYRt LXYWL[ EYdLm. CR ZkRLm
Am T NnVm, UZdLXjtL] EPL[m LXL[m LP LXjp
26

YeY jNjR]m. LPdLXjtL] EPL[ YNkRLXjp YeY

SpX. jRPL[ YeYRt u mTjp Cdm A]YWm LXkRn
Nn YeYm, TZV Utm Rn T] EPL[ ALtYm AYVm.
BdLloYU] kR], Y[k Ldm Ti BVY mT Th_hP
NVpTjm RuUYnkRYVm. UtVYLs EPLu Th_hP
LhlTj NlT ALdL Ydm AWL[m. TQm-C GlTm
mTjt RYd RYlTm Ul GuTR] U]p Ls[m.
3.1.6. mTju BPLs NX
Rn, RkR Utm CWi ZkRLs (YV 16&11) RkR R] YU]ju
J TV, GoLX AYNWl ojdL] GiQjPu Eo Llh NYd
LQdm Nj\o. BWdVm Utm EPp Y[ofdLL W] EQL[
EhLs[ Yim GuTR]p YU]ju TmT EQ \dLL NXP
Yi Ym.
CRPu mTjR SPjYRtL] NXLs, LpLs / A]R CpX
AuTlLs, UjY NXLs, TTd LdLLs, Lp NX Tu\Y
NRWQ mTeLp YZdLUL HtTm NXL[m. CR]p BPLdL]
Th_hp 8 Rp 10 NRRm Ru YU]jk JdL m. X mTeLp
RkRm X mTeLp Rm ALU] RLV BPLd
TVuTjYoLs. ASL mTeLp Rn ALUL BPLd NX Nn\o.
11 YV BiL[ P EVoX Lp Tm ASLUL TiLd ALU]
EPLs RYlT\.
3.1.7. BP Th_hu Ls
CRu TV YL YVPLs [e\. Cp EPX t ATY
(wraps) Utm EPLs APem. LXLs Utm LtNhP AjR CPjp CPm
T\. vPde Wp TVuTPt Tm GuTR] Gp kd
Ls[Xm. EVoXlTsp Tm TiLPm GjR sVp YWeLuT
JqY BPu tL] NXL[ Li EPLu Th_hP AVXm.
NRRm
YVPLs

48 Rp 54

Es[PLs Utm CW BPLs

8 Rp 13

LXLs Utm LtNhPLs

18 Rp 27

E EPLs

4 Rp 8

[Vh EPLs

0 Rp 4

EeL[ AXUV AXeLdm EPLu Ul NWNVL UtV NRR

A[LPu Jlh LQdPm.

27

3.2. AXULs
AXU GuT EPL[ ReLd V Wg ShPYu J tm WLV
A\ G]Xm. Uu]o AXU GuTR Ys[ J TV Th G] lh
YkRoLs. SLL AWiU]Lm, EVV mTjR NokR LhPLp Ym
ALW YodLj]Wm J RlThP CPm BPL[ Ad YlTRtLu
RV] AXUVL Ys[ TV ThVjRu ETVj Yks[]o. TX
AdL[ LiP RhL[m, hm \u LiP APlTuL[m LiP
A\VjRu AXU Gu TVh YjkR]o. Cj m V Th
ApX AdLs SYSLLjp RuVY. CkR YLV] AXULp CkRu
S] LX AXUL[] SLm AdLs, Cj m AdLs Utm
ReLPlTm YNLs LiP AXULs EY Es[].
3.2.1 AXUL[ hPPp
C C YL SdLeL[ LiPRm. RXYRL, AkS[d RYV]
EPL[ GRL VtPu GdL Y NnRp. CWiPYRL, RYpXR
EPL[ d, RYV] BPL[ Ye Wl Y NnRp. CkR \p
SU LXm WVm NnVlThPm, J\ R Nnm SU X U SWeL[p
TX U SWeL[ XTLWULY Uhu TQjRm, LRWjRm XTLWUL
T\ m.
T 1. AXUu Ts [dLlThVp: Rp LhPUL AXUp Es[
ThL[ dLm NnYRm. AXUV \k, LPkR J YPUL AVR
EPL[ Gj J Thp AdLm, A TmTm RYpXR Ju\LY
Cdm. RtNVXL Am BPL[m T BPL[m Ju\L ReL
Pm.(vLoh, Lp NhPLs, _dLh JW LXW LiP BPL[ Ju\L
ReLPm. ClT AXUp Cdm Ts [dLlThVX RVo
NnVm. Ts [dLlThVX RVo Nnm T, GkR BPV Sm
d\m GuTR] RYL j YdLm. ERWQUL, AXUp TX
Ys[ \LXo NhPLs CkRp, Ap GjR] AWdL NhPLs (A) dL
NhPLs Utm RjRuU YnkR NhPLs GuTR] dLm. Um GkR
YiQjp AkR lhP EP Cdu\ GuTR]m NnVm.
ERWQUL EeL[ BPLs APo X \UApX Yo X\U GuTR]
NnVm. ClT NnYR]p AXUp Es[ BPL[ SU
RYdLt\t Tp EP]VL Ro NnV CVm.
T 2. YVPLu ThVX EYdRp: AXUu Ts
[dLlThVk AXUp Cdm YVPL[ ThVPm. J dV
BPu ApX J YiQ LXo EPV UVUL Li Ut\ YVPLu
ThVX EYdLm.
T 3 t AVdVY Utm YeLX XLs (Wrap-up & Future
Steps) : YVPLu ThVX RVo NnRu AR J TlTp L]X
ApX RhPf NnR W] \p JeTjRm. u AR AXUu
28

Es[V ApX ToYp RmT Jh YdLm. V BPL[

YemT AYt\m CkR Thp NodL U\kP YiPm. RL BPL[
YemT A Ut\ BPLPu CQk V Rt\jR EiTim
BPVL AUV Yim. RYpXR ApX AVR BPVL AXUp
RePUp Tojd Ls[ YiV AYVm.
EeL[ AXUV J RlTL ]jd Ls[m.
BiLu AXU

TiLu AXU

29

3.3. BPYeRp Utm hPPd rdLiP RLYpL[ TVuTjd

Ls[m
Es[PLs

: W Utm CRW Es[PLs ATYoLd LQdLfRUL

TkR YiV Lm AYVm. L]LfRUL TkV W, Ut\ EPLs
TjRjt TV Ut\jR HtTjm. Lf V ApX TkRR EsBPLs
Nt TU]] Rt\jR HtTjm.

YiQeLs

: u ApX Su YiQ YWmLds Es[ BPLs

JYu Rt\jR SLLm BdYPu Ut\ BPLPu EiP]
TjRjRm ALdm. EeLu Rp \m, RX Utm LiLu
\jtLt\t Tp YiQ BPL[ RokRdLm. EeL[ EPL[
EeLdLt\tTp RokRdLVpX Gu\p BXNLoLPm BXN]
T\m. J dV BPV YemT, ARu _ YiQjR CVtL
YfNjp Toj RokRdLm. LPLu AXeLW u[dLp \m
NVL RV.

AdLs

: BPLs Utm E ElLu AdLs EeL[ AXULd

Eo Ldm RuU YnkR. ERWQjt, Ys[ \ NhPLs GV
Rt\jRm, S]jRm Ldm RuU YnkRRL CkRm, BU
Rt\jR LdL AR]p CVX. B]p AR Ys[ NhPPu Ae,
Cl ThP (Tph), ApX AZV Lj UX Ju\ Nojd LiPp
JYu RjRuU [em. AWdL NhPLu AdLs Utm dL
NhPu Up AWdLLs/LpXR NhPLu AdLs AXUV TolTRt
lTY Adm RuU YnkRRL AUm. LoLuLs, YvhLs,
_dLhLs, LhP UXPLs BV] AXUV Wf Nnm.

LPd

NpRtL] lLs (shopping)

Cdm BPLu ETVLjR Tdm YiQm, Tkm YiQm

LiP ThVX LPdf NpXm.

ETTVlTjm X BPL[m, ALXuL[m (`dLs Tu\Y)

LV Gjf Nu YeLdm BPL[ NnVm.

kRYW BPLu YiQeL[ CVtL YfNjp RokRdLm.

ThL[ m Yed Lsm/UtlThL[ Ldm LPu

\L[ Rk Ls[m.

Gp Uh LZhm BPL[ AVm.

eLs mm SLLjR LPdm SiToLs Utm mTjRW Uhm

LPd NpXm.

LPLu AXeLW [dLs, LiQLs Utm LP FVoLs HUtm

RuU GuTR] U\k PoLs.

30

eLs YeV Ts EeL[ Rt\jt Ht\tTp CpXhPm ApX

YLW RuUVt\YVL CkRm ARu TjRjR AXUp Cdm
Ut\ u ApX ARt UtThP BPLu TjRjtLt\tTp
Cdu\R Gu TodLm.

SLLm

: TYLXjtLt\tTp EeL[ BPLu GidL EQoj

BPLu _jRuUV Ut\m. EeL[ AXUp SYSLL BPLs
UhU CkRp, G]d AYRt JuU CpX Gu\ GiQmRu Ym.

TWUjRp

: EeL[ AXUp Cdm BPL[ J RlTL L

SpX\p TWUdL Yim. \lT Yj, Cv Nn, TL[
NToj, NV] \p ReLhPp BPLd iP BhLXjRm,
EeLd UrfVm Ldm. hW e Utm L]p YlT
RYVt\ Gu LRlTm UpV CZLs LiP L[ CVkWjp
jRlTjm T, AR Es[PLs Ydm Tds Thj YjRp
BPLu Rp RuU Utm RnU]jR LhlTjRXm.
Nj YjRp : EeL[ AXULp CPeL[ UtVUj NV]
\p Nj YdLm. LNeLUp Utm CRW CPoTLPk NV]
\p Nj YlT AYVUm. AXUV UWlfLPk TLdL
UWReLPp Utm \lT] ReLPpL[ TVuTj TLdL tTPXm.

W
mTjp Cdm JqY SToLm mTju YU] Th_hP EQW
Yim. AlT EQoY]p mT YU]jR GlT NX Nn, NdLm
Ut\ NXtL] NX]eLdLL NX NnYRm EQokP m. SWjRm,
BdL NdVm ETVLlTj YU]jR Th_hT NX NnVXm.
mTEl]o JqYYdm YqY EPLs RYlTPXm. mT
EVodLLm, JYu NVpTL[m Ljp Ls[ Yim.
]dLs
I.

LhP CPjR WlL

1.

Th_h GuT hPhP __________ Utm YU]m LiP ThVp Bm.

2.

mT Th_h GuT __________ I oYLm NnYm, TQjR NdLf

NnYRtm dV LVL [e\.

3.

Th_h hPm __________ NjVlTj, LiLj CXdL APV ER\.

4.

Th_h __________ YZdLUdd Ls[ ER\.

5.

__________ JYW CXdL APV ER\.

6.

__________ Utm Y[k Ldm RuU mT Th_hP NVpTjm

LWL[m.
31

7.

BP Th_hu TV YL YVPL[] __________ Utm __________

APem.

8.

AXU GuT __________ NdL ERm tm WLV A\Vm.

9.

LfV ApX TkRR __________ BPLdd Z Nt TjR

Rt\jR HtTjm.

10. ________ Utm _________ ReLPpL[ TVuTj AXULd fL[p

HtTm Tlp Ck TLdLXm.
II. 2 UlTi ]dLs
1.

mT Th_hP Y.

2.

mT NX]eLu rYY]Yt\ ThVL.

3.

TYLX u tT]Vp Htm SuULs Gu]?

4.

AXU Gu\p Gu]?

5.

SLLm Y.

6.

LPdf NpRp Tt GL.

III. 5 UlTi ]dLs

1.

Th_h Utm ARu TVuLs VY?

2.

BPLdL] Th_h lLs Utm GfNdL Tt GL.

3.

mT El]u BPLdL] NXLs Tt YL GL.

4.

BP Th_hu Ls VY?

5.

AXUV hPPp Tt [d GRm.

IV. 10 UlTi ]
1.

Th_h hPPp Tt [d Yj GL.

TpLs
1. NXLs

2. YU]jR

3. URkW NXL[

4. TQ NlT

5. Th_h

6. BdLoY kR] 7. EPXf t ATY Utm EPLs

8. L[

9. Es BPLs

10. UWj ReLPpLs Utm \lT]

32

4. BPL[j RokRjRp
BPLs UR] BdTY. C TZUV] t\m. CR]l Tt ALm
kdLUp, EiUd t\L Sm HtdLs\m. BPLs UR] BdY
Uhm Au LAUl Utm EPXUlTm TdLdV. BPLs
RUR]p NL NVpThdL] LVL TVuTjRlTh J APV[f
u]UL EYjs[. Tf RPoTt\ RLYp TUt\jR C EYds[.
RxQ XV] URu RYd HtT TpY YLV] EPL[
LilTRt dV Te Yj Es[. RYlT UiPXeLs EPp YRm
U\j EP AV LWQUs[. YlTm, o Utm UQtVp RV]Ytp
Ck EPV] UR] TLd\.
4.1 BPLs CWi L[L YLlTjRlThs[]

XV]

RtLXjt Ht\

XV] BPLs GuT] WkRWU]. CY SYSLL Ut\eL[p U\d

VRpX. B]p Ym TLd HtT YTu\]. RtLXjt Ht\ EP
YLLs UtLjV SLp BdLm Nnu\]. EXL[p SWjt RkRY
SLL Ut\eLd HtT EPLs Uu\].
4.2 BPLu TLs

BPLs Sm EPX TLj, N[LoVjR HtTjY].

BPLs Sm TY]L[ ApX U] XV Gjd Y].

BPLs JYW L[WYjR dm.

BPLs AXeLWjRuU ApX AZQofV Ttdm.

BPLs U T]jR LYm RuUV Lidm.

4.3 BPLdL] T LhTLs

BPLs Tt Su T LhTLs EYdLlThs[]. AY BPLs
Tt dLUL kdm YnlT HtTj, X LjdL[ Tt Vdm
YnlTm Ld\.
UPv

LhT (Modesty Theory) : UdLs Rp BPV Ak AYoL[

EPu U\dL YiV TL[ U\jR]o Gu\ UPv LhT. UPv
LhT JeQo GuT Ru]PdLjR Nok Cdm GuTR EPp ElL[
U\j Y Tj\ Gu\ GiQjR AlTPVLd Lis[.

CmUPvh

LhT (Inmodesty Theory) : CmUPv LhT ApX T]

LYof JYo BP AY \W LY]jR DolTRtLLY Au AYoL[
EPp ElL[ U\lTRt ApX Gu [d\.

33

APouUuh

LhT (Adornment Theory) : CdLhT BPLu AXeLW

AUl Utm \ Rt\eL[m, BPLp JX SdLeLd X
Ut\eL[ Nn GjdLhPm, LYofdLL ApX AZQoY
YlTjYRtLLm NnVlTYR du\].

W_d`u

LhT (Projection Theory) : CdLhT BPLs UR] X

LLs, XeLs ApX CVtLp Ckm TLdu\ GuTR
Yj\.
4.4 BPLdL] L[ Rok GjRp
BWdVm, RWQ Utm VUVR BV]Ytt RkR BPLs
RYlT\. NmTlTR GpXm NX NnTYW P YW NX hPh
YrdL SPjTYo TYL kR UrY, lLWULm YrYo. SU
BN Utm RYLs, GpXLs At\Y GuT EiU. JlLp SU
RYLs Lm \Y. mT Yrp RYL[ JeLdY CuVUVR
Utm dVU]. JYW BU Y[ofd, A]j RYL[m
\YdY GuT mTjRdLRpX. lTeLs Utm RYLs BVYtd
CPV jVNm Es[. J SpX BPYeYRtL] hPjp lTm Utm
RY APedm.
L[ RokRdm T SP\p LYdL YiV lLs

Rp JYW RYL[ LiPVm. \ hPh JYW BPj

RYLd NXPm. hPRp GuT mT YW NXj hPjt
Ht\Y AUdLlTh CdL Yim. JqY El]u BPj
RYlThVXl Tt Su Ak, u A]Ydm Bi YRtm
RYlTm BPL[ YeL oUdLm.

AjR T Gu]Yp hPjR NVpTjRp

TVuTjRlTYRu SdLjR Ljp Ls[m Ss Ym Tp

AV ApX J ZtLL hPh YeL Yim Gu\ BPV
UhU YeLm. EQof YNlTh ALUL YeYR RodLm.

SpX RWU] BPV RokRj YeLm, X UY]Y GuT

AoYU].

XVm, UlTm TpY LPLPu JlPm.

RtTs[ XV Tt Rk YjdL Yim.

TZV EPL[ ldL Y \L[ LiPVm. GV NhPLs, EPLs,

Utm \ EPL[ hp RlTRt \UV Y[odLm.

AZL]R ApX LfRUL Tk\R AR] TWhPY ApX

\V \Y Wlj RuU Lm dVm GuTR ]p Ls[
Yim.
34

4.5 BPL[ RokRjRX Tdm LWLs

YV, TY LXm, YU]m, \l Lrf Utm SLLm BVYt\ Nok
BPLs RokRdLlTu\].
YV

: BPdL] V RokRdm T ZkRu YVR U]p

Ls[ Yim ZkRLd, UuUV] Yo \jp AZL], LfRU]
AfdLs Es[ V RokRdLXm. u ZkRl TY XV APm
T, Bi ZkRLs Xm, NmTp \jPu V Xm Utm lWu Tu\
BiU RuU YnkR \eL[ mYo. ed, TfN Utm Yl Tu\
TiUjRuU YnkR \eL[ EPV EPL[ Ti ZkRLs m
AYo. X UuUV] L[ Y[[m TiLd Ro NnVXm. Y[[m
BiLd Nt L]U] Ls ELkRY.

EPu vPm ZkRLu YVt HtT Uu\]. A-Xu EPLs

ZkRLd (Toddlers & Infants) TjRU]Y. \, AL A[ dLeLPu
V lWdLs Tu\ EPLs Ti ZkRLd ELkRY. C Tu\ V
YV]d TXYL LXoLs TjRUL Cdm, ERWQjt, ZkRdL]
LXo Y[[m TYj]d TjRU]RL CdL.
TY

LXm (Season) : J X Ls Utm \eLs UhU oLXjt

Ht\. ERWQm: uRdLs, Th Utm LmT BV] o LXjt Ht\Y,
H]p, AY YlTjR LPjRRY. Tj Utm uRd CQj
RVdLlThP Tj BV] Yp LXjt Ht\Y. H]p, AY Egm
RuUPu, YlTm LPjm RuUm, LiPY. o Utm YmUV]
\eLs Es[]. o \eLs GuTY UPu RPoPV]; ERWQjt:
Xm, TfN, Ys[ RX]Y YmUV] \eLs YlTjR LPjR. Um
YmU \eLs YlTjPu RPoPV. ERWQjt: Yl, BWg Utm
UgNs. BLY, YmU \eLs oLXjtm, UV] \eLs Yp
LXjtm Ht\Y.

YU]m : BPL[ RokRlTR TQm Tdm. \kR

YU]PVYoLPu AL YU]m EPVYoL[ Jlm T, AL
YU]m EPVoY[ ZkRLs BPLd NXm RLu NRRm
ALU]RL Es[. j EZdm L[P AYoLs SLL BPLdL]
AL TQm NXYoLs. \kR YU]PV Tt\o UuUV]
BPVP j EZdm BPL[V mYo. mT YU]jR Tj
BPLs RokRdLlTYm U\. A NnRp Utm AZ BVYtPu
JlLp \kR NL T[RW Y[of, EZdm \u, N[LoVm, Utm
X BVYtt dVjYm Ad\.

\l

Lrf : \l LrfLd Ht\Y BPLs RokRdLlTY

Um. ]N Edm EP ApX NmWRVlT ApXR (Informal wear) EPd,
GV NuLPu V j EZdm EPL[ RokRdLXm. B]p
\l LrfLs ApX Je\V] EPd S] vPPu YLV]
L[ RokRdLXm.
35

 SLLm

: SLLU] BPLs L AZL]RL Cdm. JYo SLLjt

EhTP CkRp UTh Rj LQlTYo. J X Lm, \eLs UhU
SLLjt EhThPY. X BPLs SLLjt Ht\Y RokRj h
Utm XYt\ GUV]RL RokRdLm, \kR YU] ]W
JlLp AL YU] ]o A SLL BPL[ ALm Au\]o.
ALU] SLLjR RodL Yim.
4.6 mTjtL] BPL[ Rok GjRp
TiPV RX\]W P CdLXjV mTj]d BPL[
RokRlT GuT TV NYXL Es[. TZdLeLs Utm S\Ls
GuT]Yt\ BPLs RokRlTRt TU] AlTP \L[L LR
V. V RthTm Utm ARPu RPoTL ALU] BP EtTju
[YL AL ReLm, YLLm Cu BPLs EtTj NnVlTh
Es[]. Ls Utm BP EtTjp UR]p Li dLlTh RVdLlThP
CZLs L dVU] FdVUL Lrk NTjV Whd LWQU Es[.
mTj]d RYlTm BPu YLLs Utm ReLs UR]p
RVdLlTu\ TpY CZL]p ALjs[. LPkR LX t\ip
A]j X UdLu YU]m ALjs[Rp mTj]u RYd
Ht\T BPLs Rok GdLlTu\]. CqY\L A]j LWLm
mTj]u RYd dVjYm AdLlTh BPLs RokRdLlTh
A]j El]oLdm U]\Y HtTj\.
4.6.1 UQjtm, Rp Bitm Ht\ BPLs
rYm VN]Ls YeLX YrtV UQULs ApX UQULu
BVd RYlTm BPL[ RokRdL RYlTm RLs
A]jRm T\ Y Nn\.

JYW BUV WTdU BPLs Utm Ql ThL[

RWkRdLm. PLjWU] BU EPV SToLd odLU] NuLm,
AjRUL YTjLhm YiQjp, X UlT] Ls
TjRU]RL Cdm. B]p, AUV] BU EPV STd
NuLs, UuUV] Ls Utm AZV UuUV] YiQeLs Lf
\lT]RL Cdm.

EYjt UrfV] Rt\m AdU BPVj RokRdLm.

EYjp Es[ JeLt\ AUlTm Ljp Ls[ Yim.

RokRdm BPu \U] Ru \j] Wf NnV Yim.

\eLs JeQdLlTh JqY STm BP Am T U]t

dUm, AXUp Es[ A]j BPLm JUlThPu LZ
Yim.

RtTRV SLLjt HtT Ut\m Tts[ NuLs Utm L[ UhU

RokRdL Yim.
36

BPLs RYlTm TpY \l LrfL[ U]p Ls[ Yim.

UQjt Gu hPPlThP BPLs UQULs ApX UQULd
AXUp Ym Bi ApX Ym BiLdLL TLlTL YdLlTP
Yim.

RL RokRj YeV BPLs. UQULs ApX UQULu AXUp

RtTs[ BPLPu Nok ALdLlThdL Yim. AlTRu
\ Tt NUXlTjRlThP AXUV UQ YTYjt \ T\
m.

NWN YVPV C[m _ AYoL[ UQ YrdLV V

AlTohUip Ydu\]o. AkR AlTohUip Ndm CPm \YL
ClTRp, AXUV ARt Ht\Y hPP Yim.

UQjt u UQULs Td NpTYWL CkRp, ALUL SWm Utm

TQm NXh TWUdLlTm BPLs TjRUt\Rm. NXY NnV
YNLs \YL CkRX ApX \kR A[ , L[ TWUdL
CkRm TjRUt\RL Bm.

UQjt \ AV VR UQ BPV], \VL TLdLlTh

TWUdLlTP Yim ApX Je TjRlTP Yim.

4.6.2 Ru XtL] BPLs

Ru Xt Npm CPm, TYLXm, TVQm Nnm \ Utm RX

ShLs BV] GqYL Utm GqY[ BPLs RYlTm GuTR
oQdm,

iP TjRlThP o ApX iP AVpSh TVQjR P J TV

SLWjp YW C ShLs, UXl TeL] Tp X ShLs, LPtLWVWl
Tp J YWm, ApX Kn SWjp UhPo TVQjp CPeL[
tlTojRp BV] RtT Lm NRWQUL Es[.

RXY hPLp RmT]d Npm CPjt RkR \l EPLs

AYVm RYlTm. B]p AY u]o TVuTjRl TPUhP.

UXlWRNeLs ApX LPtLWVWjp RX NpY TY] Bm.

NmWRVlT (information dress) ApXR BPLs UVm ApX UX

ZdLd RYlTm.

4.6.3 Lol Rndj RYlTm BP

LolLdL] LfRU] BPLs, TLlT] LYl Utm Rok

GdLlThP AXeLWl ThL[ TVuTj AZ] UmTj LYmT
ClTRp Lol Ru U]X TPu Cdm.
UoTLm Utm Cll TLp HtThs[ Ut\U WjVLU] BPLs
AV LWQU\.
37

WUh LolT LX BPLp YZdLUL A[Ls lPlTh Cdm,

AlTRu Lol Ti TZdLU] A[p RPok AV m.

u]lThP L[] CXYL [Um. Tj p CZLs ApX SXu

Li RVdLlThs[ BPLs Lm lV]Y.

4.6.4. 9 UReLdhThP ZkRLdL] BPLs

YmU, N[LoVm Utm LRWU] TiLs BV Cmum \kR
ZkRLdL] BPp LhPVUL CdL YiV]Ym. J YPju LX
SWm, TY] RxQX, ZkRu A\p Es[ YlTX Utm
ZkRu BWdV X BVYt\ oQj J ZkRd GqY[
BP RY Utm GqYL BP RY GuTm KW[ oUdLlT\.
ZkR BPd ELkR Z TjVm. H]p Tj Lm UuUV].
Um, TjV jRULm, TLlTLm YlTRt p AXYR
\lT]Rm.
ZkRLu BPV RokRlTRt RYV] dV lLs
ZkRLdL]

BPL[ RokRdmT, N[LoVm Utm XTUL

TWUlTR AlTPVLd Ls[ Yim.

ZkRLu BPLs UuUV]RLm, CRuUPu Y[dLd

VRLm, GfNp HtTjRRYm CdL Yim.

DWlTRm CkRp BV Lt\hPm HtTjYRL CdL Yim. TU]

Lt\hPm CuU, DWjRp Rp Al HtTjm [L[ EiPdm.

BPLs GUV]RLm, \lT]RLm NnVlTh CdL Yim.

AZtLL LjRj BP AXeLdLlThkRp NXY NnmT kR
LY]m RYlTm. Um, C Tu LjRj AXeLdLlTY ZkRd
GfNX HtTjm.

u]lThP Vp B] BPLs EPp ANLd Ht\Y CRuU

Tt m \u Ttm Cdm. BLY ZkRd u]lThP VX]
BPV AlT Lm G.

uTdLm ApX uTdLjp BPu \l Up Ck rYW AUj

ClT BP AjRX GUVdm.

f Th LhTY ApX RhPV] TjYuLs Lm

N[LoVU]Y; Ljl Td Cjd LhPdVYL[ ASLUL
TkWl TpX. H]p, LhPdV SPYp ZkRd Tl HtTh
m.

f Th LhPdV] ApX TjRuLs TVuTjRlThkRp, AY

TLlT] \p RdLlThs[]Y GuTR AdL LYdL Yim.

EPp Y[ofu Rm ALUL Cdm. AR]p BPV TRdd Ls[

YNVL CPm h (Seam allowance) am NnVXm.
38

4.6.5. (9 UReLs Rp 1 YV YW) RYm ZkRLdL] BPLs

ZkR RYZ BWmjR \, AL A[p BPLs RYlTm. dVUL
ZkRu TLlT U]p Ls[ Yim. NhPp AdTPdL
NhPu Up YUL AVlTm BPV CT] ZkRLdm
GUV] BPVm. dVUL LpLs m CPjp LdLs TjkRp
ZkRLd PVlTo UtYRt ERVL Cdm. YUL PlThP
BPV] ZkRLu Lp hL[ m LYNUL RWp Ck EWnYR
TLdm.

LpNhPu LpT ZkRu hLd AL TXUdL VRL

ClTRp j EZdU ClT AYVm.

Ym PlTm BPLp LpLs m CPjp LdLs ApX NV]

ltLL TjRlTm lToLs, PVlTo Ut\lTmT SWjR NdL
ER\.

Su\L SN NnVlThP ApX u]lThP Lp RVdLlThP BPLs

RYV] CQlPu \ NnVlTm T NRWQUL AVm,
NXYLdm Ht\RL Cdm.

okR RxQ UiPXeLd TLX EP, hPuLs, RXVm

LjRm U\dm E\ (hood) BV] RYlTu\]. Lt\p Tl
APVR L]Ut\, NXY NnVdV L[] SXu ApX TVvPo
ELkR.

RYZdV YVp UuUV] AlTLm Es[ LXLs LpL[ p

Ck TLdL TVuTjRlT\.LXLs Lp WpL[ P 1/2 AeXm
AL [m EPV]YLm, L\Ls TRjR P 1/2 AeXm [U]RLm
CdL Yim.

TtdL] LpNhPLs PnXh Tt BWmTUmT AVlT\

(TPm 5.4). PnXh Tt UVPm YW TtdL] LpNhP RPok
AVlT\. CY CRuUPV Vp CdLpNhPLs NnVlTh,
Clp SojVL TjRlTP Yim.

Ujp Es[ UVlT CWi, u Utm Su AdL[p EgRd,

TLltLLm AUdLlTh Cdm. u]lThP L[p B]
TtdL] LpNhPLs ELkRY. H]p, ZkR SLoYRt GRL Cdm.
Um u CRuU R[ Y[ofdm CPUdm.

\kR ZkRL[ P RYm ZkRLs EPtNVpTLp Lm lTL

ClToLs. ZkRLu BPLs EPp NVpTL[p HtTm VoYV
Egm RuU LiP BPL[L CdL Yim.

E YnkR Utm EZdm \u LiP Ls CqYV]d ELkR.

ZkRLs RWp RYrYo. AlT HtTm EWnYp V] hp
Sk Tm. B]p EV] j EZdm Ls EWnY Red
39

Lsm Bt\p Tts[]. Jh LjRp Xm BPu hlTV

TXlTjRXm.

Y[m Xp ZkRLs Es[Rp Ah_vh NnVdV ThLPu Es[

BPLs Lm ELkRY.

4.6.6. SPTm ApX SPdLd LtdLsm ZkRdL] BP

(clothing for Toddler) (1 Rp 2 YV YW)

CkR Xd ZkRLs DTm A]j NVpTLdm TjRU]

BPV RokRdL Yim.

EPp YUL AVdVR TjRU]. dVUL ALX

RsThPLPu VY [UL CdU]p Y[m ZkRLd Ht\Y
Ah_vh Nn Ls[Xm.

SPTm

TYdZkRLs TYL J i EPL[ AYo. AkR

EPp LpLp ApX LpLs m CPjp l \l TjRlThdm.
(TPm 4.1).

J i T_UdLs C i T_UY P YZdLUL TLlT]RLm,

AZL]RLm Cdm. UuUV], NXY NnVdV L[p T_UdLs
ClT SpX.

NNnVdV
ThP
l Yj
RdLlThP

KYoBp
Nuh

TPm 4.1. SPTm ZkRd EP Utm Nuh.

4.6.7. u Tsd ZkRLdL] BP (2 Rp 4 YV YW)
uTs YV ZkRd BP GuT mTjp TV WfN]VL
Cd\. H]p, AYoLdL] BPLs X Ul kR. Um \kR
LXjt UhU AV \. ZkR Ru]mdLV Y[odLm, NL
NVpTh \uL[ LtLm Utm NUYV]Pu Nok NVpTRp
BV]Ytt TjRU] BPV RokRdL Yim. BPV]
CRuUPu Ut\dVRL, LRLRlTL N[LoVU]RL, GRL jRm
40

NnVdVRL, UuUV]RL, EZdLdVRL, Ru]mdLV Y[odLd

VRL, AdL PnXh NpYRt YNV]RL, Y[m EPd HtT Ah_vh
NnVdVRLm, LYofLWU] m, NPm CdL Yim. ZkRLs
LtT] EXp Es[]Yt\l Tu SmTjRkR YLp BPLs ClTR
mYo.
4.6.7.1. BPp EPpY[ofd CPm AjRp

uTs YVp Y[ofV] AYLUL Cdm.

EPpY[ofd Ht\Y BPLs Ye]p BPL[ iP LXjt

AYRt ERm.

EVWUL Y[mT BPp CPm AdL

TYPLs Utm EPLu rTp AL CPmh NnVlTm ame

Utm PdLs RjdL Yim.

EPLs Utm LpNhPLu CllTp PdLs CkRp EPu

Up TV [UL BdLXm ApX CWiLpTLm EPp
CQdLlTm TV [UdLXm.

EPp YUL PdV EPLp Ah_vh NnVdV iP

ThPLPu AL CPm h amem NnVlThdL Yim.

EPm [UL Y[of APmT VdLp d Yhp RdLlTm

PdL[ jPXm.

EVt\ CllT ApX Cll T CpXR BPLs Utm BPu

rTp AL h ameLs NnV Yim.

CRuUPV Ls Utm

C i BPLs uTslTY ZkRLd TjRU]Y.

ALXjp Y[of APmT BP CPm AdL

TjRlTPR vqL[ P WdXu ApX U] vqL[

TVuTjRm.

PdLs, UlLs ApX dLeL[ RsThP Tp Yj RdLm.

Ld Am, LpLm RYdLtT AL A[p CPUj RdL

Yim. BPLs ALUL TVuTjRlTh VdV Tp
TXlTjRlTP Yim. dVUL LpNhPu hlTp Ym
PdV EPp, C LpTm CQm Tm CPm AdLlThP
LLd Ap Es[ TLm TXlTjRlTP Yim.

4.6.7.2. R]dj R] ERdLsm N` AmNm

R]dj R] ERdLsmTV] EP GuT J ZkRV] R[
ERVm VPm T\Up R] AVm, ALt\m V Bm. CkR
41

\l AmNU] J Rnd GqY[ dVU]R, AR A[ ZkRdm

dVU]. J ZkR Ru] R] BP AdL Lt Ls[ Tt\
ATYm, ZkRd AL Ru]mdLVm, RkWjRm Ad\. Ce
ZkR BP RokRdmT U]p Ls[ YiV LjdLs
LdLlThs[]. CdLjdLs BPV AYp FdLUj RkWjR
HtTjm.
d CdLd
V SP
R]d R]
Yvh Xu
ERdLsm
CpXR,
BP
Ljp
dLeLs
EPV

TPm 4.2. uTs R] ERdLsm TiZkRd EP

GV vPp EPLs, dLX] EPL[ P LVsYRt XTU]RL

Cdm.

iP \lLs AYRt GRL Cdm. uTdLm ApX TdLYhp Es[

\lT P uTdL \lLs LVsYRt L XTU]RL Cdm.

TV TjRuLs ApX TjYuLs VYt\ P LVsYRt

XTU]RL Cdm.

TV A[p BomapLs TV vqLs Utm TV LjdLs EPL[

XTUL AV ERu\].
GXvd
Yvh
TjRu
CpXR

TV
TjRu
Lj ThP
CpXR

R] Ejd Lsm EP
TPm 4.3.uTs TY BiZkRd R]djR] ERdLsm EP
42

BPu uTdLm, uTdLjR Gp LidmT AUjdL Yim.

Lp NhPLp YiQ XdLi uTdLm ApX uTdL Cll
Tp ZkR JudLu APV[m LidL ERVL RlT SpX.

LX `u Yl\m TdLYhp APV[d ChPp ZkR CP,

YXR Lij JeQoPu Ak Lsm.

LjThPLs CpXR BPLs, WdLLs Utm UpNhPLs

Tu\YL[ LXoLs Es[Yt\ P GRL LV[ m.

RVL Cll TphLs, AYR RodL Yim. H]p X NUVeLp

AY ddLi BPds U\kLsm.

4.6.8. Ts Npm ZkRLdL] BPLs (5 Rp 11 YV YW)

uTsd ZkRLu BPj RYL[ P BWmTlTsdf Npm
ZkRLu BPjRYLs TX `VeLp JjkRm X `VeLp
YTh Cdu\]. Ts Npm TYdZkRLu EPtNVpTLs L
ALUL Cdm. Bi Utm Ti ZkRLs [Vhp AL BoYm
LhYoLs. NL Y[ofp BPLs dV Te] Ydu\]. BPLs
j lTm Utm lTuUV oUdm Bt\p Y[of AP\.
J Yf NokRYoLs GuT TsfNpm TYjp HtTYRp Adp
Es[YoLs Gu] BPLs AYoLs GuT L dVjYm Tt Cdm.
ZkRV] JjR YVs[ ZkRLs, Ru] HtdLs[ Yim G]
m ReLs mTX (gang) ApX hPjR TXlTj ReLd NkRU]YoLs
GuTR EQWf Nnm. YThP \p BPV AmT, ZkRLs
RuQofs[YoL[L Bu\]o. UThP Rt\m EPV BPV
AmT RrU]lTuUV HtTjm.
4.6.9. Y[[m TYj]d kRV TYm (12 Rp 15 YV YW)
ClTYjp EPp AL Ut\eLs HtTh ot\YoLu TiL[
TYRp, RU] Y[of SPTm. Ru] SojVddLi BPLp
BoYjR HtTjd LsYo. BWmTlTs TYj]o JjR YV]d AjR
dVjYjRP u Y[[ TYj]o AL dVjYm Aj EP
AYp ANj NpYo. u Y[[m TYj]o \Pu Sh\Pu ClTR
ALUL mYo. \o GiQeLdm, lTjtm AU Aj, AL
EQofdLYoL[L u Y[[l TYj]o [eYo. j EZjRp Utm
N[LoVm BVYtPu Jlh TodmT TjRUlT, C[YWNu Rt\m,
AZQof Utm ANj SPjRp Tu\Ytt AL dVjYm
LdLlT\. YU] XdLtT TpY XLd AdLlTm
dVjYm YNlTjRlThs[]. ERWQm : \kR NL T[RW ]o
AL YU]l ]Pu JlmT j EZjRp, N[LoVm Utm
Xd AL dVjYm LlToLs.
43

4.6.10. Y[[m TYj]dL] BPLs (15 Rp 20 YV YW)

CkR TYjp BiLs Y[okLi CkRm, TiLs Y[[m TYju
BWmT LhPm Rp SlTV APm YWXV RUL Y[ofu EfNjR
APkYoLs. Y[[m TYj]u U]YfLs, U]X, NLXm
Y[of APkkRm, R]ULm, ofs[YWLm NVpTYp uRe
ClToLs. CT]m, AYWYo NokR SiTo ]Pm AL l HtTU
SPk LsYo. Y[[m TYj]o ALUL ReL[l Tt kj SojVdd
Ls[m, SpX Rt\jR T\m mYo, lTL GY \W LY]jR
Doj WdLlT\ GuTRt dVjYm LlToLs. LfRUL TkRdV,
SLLU] Utm X V] EPL[ Y[[m TYj]d RYlTm.
BPLu N[LoVm Utm ARu EZlj\u Tu\Yt\ vPp Utm
SLLjtLL VLm NnV YiVs[. Y[[m TYj]o ]o ReL[
HtdLs[m, l HtTjYRm GoTolToLs. CYV Y[[m
TYj]u U]p TLl EQo Utm ANj Npm U]lTuUVm
Y[od\. ReL[ ANlT Gjf NpX BPLs XUL YlTjYoLs.
Y[[m TYj]o ReLs EPp Rt\jt AL LY]m Nj, SpX EPL[
AV AL BoYm LhYoLs. AYoL[ BUV YlTjR BPLs
J LVL Es[].

4.6.11. of APkRYdL] BPLs (Adult)

18 Rp 21 YV YWp Es[YoLs of APkRYoLs BYo. YU]m,
AkRv, Rp, RxQ X, YV, Tp, \l Lrf Utm SLLm
BVYtu AlTPp BPV RokRdL VYo of APkRYo
BYo. SpX BP AkR STo \d NVXt\p dLYWL Rt\m AjRm,
Ru]mdLm, Bt\m RuPm Es[RL AYo U]p ]jd LilTo.
J Bu AXU Tiu AXUp Ck tUL U Cdm. J
Bu AXUp Rp, [Vh, NmWRVUL Am BPLs Cdm.
`oh, WNoLs, `ohLs, Ndv, Lj, PLs, `dLs, CW EPLs, h Utm
TX J Bu AXUp CkRp \Y]RL Cdm.
J Tiu AXU LQYu YU]m, AY[ NL NVpTLs Utm
Rp BV]Yt\ Tj Cdm. mTjRXV P, T Npm
TiLd AL BPLs RYlTm. Um, NL NVpTLp Es[YoLd
mTjRXV P ALU] BPLs RYlTm.
4.6.12. VdL] BPLs
WN] EQop, Vd BPLs u TL[ Nnu\].
SpX

N` AmNeLs \u LY]jR DolTRt

\lpXR
U]R[p

AmNeLs EPlp U\dLlTP Yim.

Ht\m Tt Ru]mdLPu LZ.

44

YVR] TiULd R[okR UoTLm, Cl t\[ ALjm CPA[

m, RsLs Eim Cdm. BLY \lpXR AmNeLs U\dLlTP
Yim. \kR A[ LLs Utm vPpLPm, R[okR EPLm TYL
mTjRkRRL Cdm. Rp Utm RXu \Ut\jRp, Y \eLs
TVuTjmT TnV] Rt\m Adm. Clp AjdLhm NuLs
LiP BPLs TYL TjRUt\R\. V Lj, lh EPLs, A
Xu TYPLs, u TdLUL PdV], JhPlThP TdLhLs Utm 1/4
T [dLLs LiP BPLs mTjRkR vPp AmNeL[d Lidm.
X \m Lm lTU] \m, TjRU]RL EPVL ClTR J lhP
BPV AdL m AYRL ThVh LWQm \lThs[ Gu
\lThs[.
TiLd
YVt

Ht\ EPV AV EPu YYjR Ak YjdL YiV

CuVUVRRm. Rt\jRm RV Ydm LiQ u u
WjVL A\p A]j BPL[m Ak TodL Yim. ALUL
CdLjPu ApX EPX YlTjm EPL[ Lj Pm.

Rf\l YnkR BPL[ TVuTjRm. Su RdLlThP TpY

vPpLp Es[ NpYo Lmv ApX l[Pu V NX CkVp
TZdLjp uTt\lTh Y\.

LXlTd]

uTt R[ Ut\eL[ EPLp Nn Ls[Xm.

LXjt HtT UY NV. B]p SLLs Utm NpYL[ TVuTj
NnVXm. R[ EThLs AYRp Cum tTdL] SLLjp
Es[o GuTR EQojU Au LXlTdtL] EPLd AUV]Yo
ApX G]m m.

BiLd

EPd TjRU] BPV RokRdLm, TjRu LiP NhPLs,

Lj Utm L A[Ls TjRU]RL CdU YeLm. TihL[
RVpLWPm NV] A[t HtT RdLm. AL CdLULY, AL
R[oYLY Cdm EPL[ AYR RodLm.

Ps

WvPh hLs AYR Roj R \l YnkR es WvPh

hP AVm.

TjRU]

NRWQ YZdLU] BP AVm. uLs Utm LdLp

LpT [Ydp YhPlThPRm, Tj p LjlThP LiP
TX `ohL[m RokRdLm.

\ NnYRt, ZkRLs Utm Y[[m TYj]d BP

RokRdmT kR TLlT L GlT TX YVR]YoLd
TLlT U]p Li BPV RokRdLm. ElTRt N[LoVULm,
ANLd GRLm, TLdL XTU]RLm Es[ BPLs TjRU]
A[m, Nm CkRp AYV \kR BPLs G]Xm.
45

W
EP Edm EQo GuT URu BUV Nokm LXkLsm
\l LrLs BVYt\ Nok Cdm. CR] Tj URu lLs,
LXfNWm, Utm SPYdLLs AU\. BPLs, NRWQUL AVdV],
TPjp AY], N[LoVjtLL AY] Utm TWmTV BPLs G]
YLlTjRlTh Es[]. NL L[, T]m, YX, UQU] X, URlTt
RVYLp APV[m LQ BPLs \kR YVL NVpT\.
TVoLd Ro NnY Tp LY]UL YoLdm, Y[[
YV]dm Ro NnV Yim. SpX RWU] EPLs EdL YNVLm,
ANLd YNVLm TLdL GRLm Cdm.
]dLs
I.

LhP CPjR WlL

1.

BPLs ___________ BdTY

2.

BPLs C L[L dLlThs[]. XV] Utm ___________

3.

BWdVm, RWQ Utm ___________ BV]Ytt RkR BPLs

RYlT\.

4.

AL YU]lYf NokRYoL[ ___________ JlLp, AL

TQjR BPLd AL YU] ZkRLs NXu\]o.

5.

A NnRp Utm AZ BVYtPu JlLp \kR NL T[RW

Y[ofV] EZdm \u, N[LoVm Utm ___________ BVYtt
dVjYm Ad\.

6.

ALlTV] SLLjR ___________ Yim.

7.

TiPV RX\]W P CdLXjV mTj]d BPL[j

RokRlT GuT _________ Es[.

8.

___________ NoYt\ UrY] Rt\m AdU BPVj RokRdLm.

9.

RokRdm BPu \U] ___________ \j] Wf NnV Yim.

10. YmU, N[LoVm Utm ___________ BV um \kR ZkRLdL]

BPp LhPVUL CdL YiV]Ym.
11.

LdLs ApX lToLs ___________ Ut\lTm T SWjR NdL

ERu\].

12. SPm ZkRLs DTm ___________ TjRU] BP ELkR.

13. ___________ YVp Y[ofV] AYLUL Cdm.
46

14. ___________ ApX ___________ Es[ \lT P uTdL \lLs

LVsYRt L XTU]RL Cdm.
15. ___________ Rt\m EPV BPV AmT Ts Npm
ZkRLPV Rr U]lTuUV HtTjm.
II. 2 UlTi ]dLs.
1.

BPLs GqY YLlTjRlThs[]?

2.

BPLu TL[ GL.

3.

BPLu LhTL[ [dL.

4.

SPm ZkRdL] BPLs Tt [dL.

5.

Lol TitL] BPV RokRdmT U]p Ls[ YiV

LjdL[ [dL.

6.

BPLp R]djR] ER Lsm \l AmNeLs Tt l

GL.

7.

uTs ZkRdL] BPLp EPp Y[ofd CPm AjRp GuTR

[dL.

8.

Ts Npm ZkRdL] BPLs Tt [dL.

9.

u Y[[m TYj]dL] BPLs Tt lTL.

10. Y[[m TYj]dL] BPLu dVjYm Tt GL.

11.

of APkRdL] BPLs Tt lTL.

III. 5 UlTi ]dLs

1.

L[ RokRdL TVuTm SP\ lL[ YL GL.

2.

RYm ZkRLd BPLs RokRdL U]p Ls[ YiV lL[

ThV.

3.

C[mZkRLd BPLs Ro NnV dV lLs GY?

4.

uTs ZkRLdL] BPLs Tt [dL.

5.

UQm Utm RuX LXjt BPV GqY RokRlTn?

IV. 10 UlTi ]dLs.

1.

BPLs RokRdLlTYR Tdm LWLs Tt [d.

2.

VdL] BPLs RokRdm T U]p Ls[ YiV

LjdL[ [dL.
47

3.

TpY TYeLp Es[ ZkRLd BPLs RokRdmT LYdL

YiV TpY lL[ Tt Y.

PLs
1. UR]
2. RtLXjtLt\
3. VUVR
4. \kR YU]l
5. X
6. RodL
7. NYXL

8. EYjt
9. Ru
10. LRWU] TiLs
11. PVlTo
12. NVpTLs
13. u Ts
14. uTdLm ApX TdLYhp
15. UThP

48

5. BPL[ YYUjRp
uW
J BPV YYUlTRt ApX AXeLlTRt, RYV] AmNeL[
AkjRp AYVm Bm. J BPV TolTRt Dol kRRL YYUdL
SUd ARL Es[ Y[eL[] SWm, Vt Utm TQm ApX YYUjRp
Utm AXeLjRX TVuTjR Yim.
LLs, YYeLs, YiQeLs Utm p SVeL[ SojVL LVi
EYdm YYjRV Nu Gu YWVd\m. YYUjRp GuT RYt\
Xp Ck EV;kR Eu]R l Adm YLp Je\V] RlThP
Qm ApX Rj tm RuU YnkRRL CdL Yim. J YYUl
LY]UL A oYUL LX XlThL[ TVuTj RlThP STu GiQjR
Gjdm YLp EYdLlTh CdL Yim.
BP YYUlp AlTPVL CdV Ls Es[]. C
YYUlLm dL VR L[m. BP YYUlp CY CWim
YYUlT HtTjm. LWL[m.
5.1. EY YYUl
5.2. AXeLW YYUl
5.1. EY YYUl
J BP YYUld RYV] A]jm EY YYUlp APe
Es[. BPu EY YYjR, BPu TL[] P;hLs, UlLs,
PdLs Utm RPoPV AmNeLs CQlT EY YYUlp APem.
BPu GpXd Lhl TLp Nt UThP YiQ Ut\j RVp NnY
EY YYUlt Uh AXeLWj RWj] RXdd Lhm. BP
EYdLjp EY YYUl Lm dVU]. H]p YYUlt C
J AlTP AeLUm.
5.2. AXeLW YYUl
CkR YYUlLp AlTPV] EYYUlLs RYlTm.
EYYeLs YYUj YWVlThP ReLPlT\. A ALUL
LjRj o NnVlTh, Af YXTLs k, jWj RVp, TjRuLs,
TdLp CZVhPm Tu\YLs NnVlTh Cdm. CkR YYUlLp,
, S]m Utm \eLu NodL YdLlTYRp mV YYUlT
GRL RokRdL \.
JYW AZ Utm Rt\jR ALjd LhYRt LXu
XlThLs Utm AlTPd LsLL[ RkRY TVuTjR Yim.
5.3. YYUlu XdLs (Elements of Design)
JYo LX Utm YYUlu AlTP XdL[ YUL
RkjRp AZQofPu V BPL[ YYUj EYdL m.
49

AZL] BPL[ EYdL YYUlu XdL[ RokRj, JeQdL

J X dVU] \L[ uTt\ Yim.
J YYUlT EYdYp YYUl XlThLs dV Te
Yd\. YYUlu XlThLm, LhTLm Cu\V SP\
SLLjt Ht\Y Ut AUdm RuU Tt CdL Yim. LLs,
YYeLs, \eLs, SVm ApX \jRt\ RuU (texture) BVY SpX
Rt\Udm YLp AUj ClTR YYUl G] YWVdLlThs[.
LX X ThLs GkR Rjp GqY NodLlThs[] GuTR
YYUlu LhTLs Bm. BLY, XlThLs GuT] LXd RYV]
ThL[ NVL CQj AUlTRm.
LXu TXR X ThLs uYY],
5.3.1. L

5.3.2. EYm Utm YYm

5.3.3. YiQm

5.3.4. \jRt\jRuU

LX Up UtLiP X ThLs [vdLs G] LRlTu\].

H]u\p CmXdL[ \UVLd LViPp ApX AUjRp J
YYUlT[Wp AYo ]jR T[ LfRUL EYdL m.
5.3.1. L
L TpY Rt\eL[] N, L]m, TUu, oUV] KWeLs Utm
[jR Es[Pds[. ToYd AZLL XlTm YLp [, ALX A[L[
L Ld\. LL[ Ju Noj NV] CPY LjRp TX
EYeL[m, YYeL[m YWVdLXm. LLs Es[ BPLs TolTYoL[
LiLd AZLL XlTh Wf Nnm RuU YnkR. BP YYUlp
LLs EiUV] A[YP TU]LY ApX JpVLY Rt\UdU
AUdLlT\. LLs TpY TL[ Nnu\].

U]XV HtTj\.

YWVjRp Utm EYm LjRp

NL[ LhRp

LiLd u]VL Es[]

YYUlp dVjYjR HtTj\

UVV HtTjRp

[ ALX A[L[ LhRp

Yt CPeL[ Es[PdRp

A) LLu YLLs : LLp C YLLs Ei SoLLs Utm

Y[ LLs. SoLLs Su NLm NpXXm. NejLLs, NUR[d
50

LLs, XhP LLs ApX Y[k Npm LLs Bm. Y[

LLs Rg J YhPjRV EYdm LL[Lm ApX iV (A)
UpV Y[L[d Li hPjRhP J SodL Tum CdLXm.
(i) SodLLs : UR EPmu CVtLV] Y[, SLd
GoU\V]Y SoLLs. SodLLs LmWULm, Es[RLm
Rt\Udm RuU YnkRY. EYUlp \jRt\jRuUp
UuUV] RokRdLlThP Lp EYYRt SoLLs
TVuTjR ]p Bm. Em _o Tu\ UuUV] V
TVuTjmT, SoLLs EPp Y[Lp Tk LhlTh Y[k
LQlTm. B]p WlT] L[] BoLi ApX P@ThP Tu\Y
SodLL[ SojVL Yjdm. CqYL Ls Wl RuUVp UR
EPp Ck XV Cdm.
PohLs, CQlLs Utm AXeLjRp XUL BPLs LLs
EYdLlTu\. JqY YL Lm J N` RdLjR HtTjm RuU
YnkRRm. SodLLs Utm YYeLs Nd Utm TXj]m, BiU
QjRm dm. Y[kR LLs GuT] CVtLV] LLs, CdLLs
BPLd AZLd Lj TiU QjRm HtTjm. BP
YYUlT[oLd LLs Ru TXU] BRUL [e\. LLs
EVWjRm, ALXjRm JYu RYdm Rt\jtm Ht\Y AUj
BPL[ EYdL TVuT\.
SoLhu JqY Nm JVp [Y ApX UVV (Nej,
UhPdL, NnkRL, Y[kR L)- J RSTu lhP BP YYUlp
RdLjR HtTjm GuTR oUdLXm.
BP YYUlp LL[ JeQj AUlTRu Xm EVWUL,
s[UL, TU]L ApX UYL Ru\f NnV m. LLs J BPp
TVuTjm Rm JYW U]lTuUV YlTjm. L Utm JVp
[ HtTmT V Cl TRL Ru\Y, RsThP ALXU]RLY
ApX LXLY, Cll T RLY ApX TVRLY Ru\Xm.
LLs HtTjm RdLm RPoPV \ LWL[Y]:

N] AklTYW EPp YYm.

u YiQm

ToYV Doj BYX im LLu UThP RNWm.

LL[p TdLjp EY] YYm ApX CPYL[ Jl NnRp.

ReLPlTPp, LSN, AfLs Utm \jRt\ RuU,

u TkR]uT TolTYoLs GoTojR Tp RdLm HtTjm.

ii) Nejd LLs : Nejd LLu GidLV h, jVNU]

\eL[, BPu SX ApX UVl TX Nodm T (TPm A)

51

BPu YYUlt EVWjR hV Tu\ GiQjR EYdm.

Nejd LLs s[U] Rt\m EPVYoL[, EVWU] Rt\PVYWL
Ru\ Nnm \u Tts[. (Em.) (TPm B) C[YWdL] vPp Es[
BPm CTu\ [Y HtTjm. Nejd LLs CPm Tm
BPL[ TolTYo LiLs ARu [jR A[ Nnm. LNU] Nej
LL[ LiP TYPLs-/LpNhPLs, NhPLs ARu ALXjp Cdm
CPYV \jd Lh ToYp CPm T\f Nnm Bt\p Tt\. GkRR
EYm CpXUp RYL Cdm J TYP TolTRt Lm ALXUL
LhVdm. B]p Ap Nejd LLs CPm Tt\p, A Nt ALXm
\kRRL Rum.

iii) UhPd LLs : CkRd LLs BPLu ALXjR

ALlTj, EVWjR \dm \u LiPY. ERWQm

jVN \PV ALXU] Cll Th (belt) AkR BPV
C TVL j URu EVWjR \jd Lhm. Gm,
Cll ThV] Clu A[Y \j Lhm, BPu
\jR JjR (TPm C) CllThV] Aks[Yu
EVWjRm BPu EVWjRm \j LhP.
iv) X hP LLs: CkR LLs EP ElTYu EVWjRd

hLhPY, \jd LhPY Nnm Bt\X Tt Es[.

PpXR [U] XhP LLs hPjRhP Nej
LLd NUU] LLs Bm. CY L [U], RY]
LLs Bm. X hP LLs, Nej ApX UhPd
LL[ CQk CkRp YYm \lTL Cdm.
XhPd LLs UhU BPp YUL
TVuTjRlThkRp ARu [ Su\L CdL. TPm (D)
v) Y[kR LLs : CkRd LLs Lm jWU]Y Utm CVtLp

BrkR VN]Pu, TiUR]m \kRRLm, AZL]RLm LRlT\.

X hP Np Es[ Y[kR LLs Lm AZLL Cdm. UuUV]
UlL[d Li ReLPlThP EPm, dLeLPu V
LjlThPm Y[kR LL[ TodLXm. Y[ LL[] AlTYu
EPp AUlT NokR Cdm.
52

Y[L YhP YYUL EYdLlTm T, AkRd L NVpT

dLRL Rum. J LhlTjRlThP Y[ A[, RPofVL Utm
SpVpPu Rum SoLLs EPp YYj] u \jRt\ RuU
XUL YTjY TXY Y[ LLm NVpTu\]. ALU]
A[p Y[L[ YlTjm. Em) J BPp J Tp dLeLs
HtTjRlThkRp BPu UuUV] TLd ToY NjRlThP
u]W dLm Es[ Tp T\. UdLhp dLeLs YdLlThkRp
ToY AlTVp DodLlTm. BPp AL UlLs Es[ T A]YW
LY]jRm Dodm. Y[ LLs JpV] STW Nt TU]L Ru\f
Nnm.
vi) Y[k Y[k Npm LLs: C XhP LLu RPo CQl
Bm. LiLu ToY Np EP] Ut\jRm, U\T, UT YWmu
NpYRp ToYp Rs[hPjRm HtTjm. CkR YL LLs Lp
TRL CPm Tm. Li NVpTLs LWQUL, CkR LLs AUm CPeLp
Nt TV Rt\jR EYd\.
TolTRt UVjRt\jR EYdm SodLLu JeQl (TPm 1 - 5)

(1)

(2)

(3)

(4)

(5)

TPm 1 Nejd LLs AUm CPeLs [ULm, TolTRt JpVLm

LiL[ Uk ZL SLoj]p Rm.
TPm 2 TdLYhp ToYV SLojm T NUR[d LL[] VRLm,
ALXULm Rm TiTd LiP.
TPm 3 XhPd Lhu Nn NUR[LhP JhV A[p CkRp, AkR
CPm VRLm, ALXULm LiLd LhNVdm.
TPm 4 XhPd Lhu Nn Nejd LhP JhVA[p CkRp,
AkR L [UL Lh Adm.
TPm 5 YdLlThP XhPd LLs LiLu ToY RPofVL UpSd
NpLp LLm [UL Rum.
B) LLu CVdLm: NejdL, UhPdL Utm NnkR LLs Gol,
CPlTVof, ApX TWYf NnRp Tu\ TiL[d LiP CVdLjR Ru\].
(TPm E). Gol : J YYUlp Nejd LhP BBI UhPdL AB GojRp
NndLL[ Gold LL[L TVuTjRXm. (TPm F
- )
53

i) CPlTVof: J Lhu N XYLU] Cu] Lhu Up mT,

CVdLjp CPlTVof SPTm. ERWQm, Y[kR LLs Ju\ Ju

CQk ZdP. Y[kR LL[ So LLs \lT]RL Nnu\
T \lTL Cdm. ERWQm, NejR] uPdLs LiP YhP YY
VdLs (TPm G)
ii) TWYfNnRp: J EPp Lj Y[p Ck LLs TWm T J

YYUl EYdLlThkRp, A]YW LY]m EP EjlTYW

LjRl TolTRt DodLlTm. CkR TWm LLs EPu YXTdLm AXeLW
PohLs RlTRu Xm EYdLlT\ (TPm H)

C. EYY XdLdPVV] Es E\Ls : CPY, YYm, EYm

Tt k LiP, \] Y[ojdLi LLu NV AV tTRp
GuT JqY EYYju RdLjRlTt uhV Ak Ls[ ER\.
CkR EYY XdLs YiQm Utm \jRt\m Xm ARp BVYt\
CQj A]j EYYeL[m EYd YRp, A]j EYdm
TLm dVU]RL LRlTu\].
L[ Ro Nnm T, CPY, YYm, EYm Utm LLs
dVjYm T\Up Tn u\]. EPttu dLQ TUQm U Ts[
YYj] BPp EYd, BPd YYm Ld\. B]p, BPu
YYm Gum UV, BPu Es Cdm EPu EYj] Nok Es[.

54

BPp CPY GuT YYjp Es[ CPm Bm. BP EYdm

YWeLPu, AXeLWm, \jRt\ RuU, YiQm, p AfPlThP Nu
BVYtPu CPY dLlTY GuT BPu Tet (vPd) dL
dLX], LLs, EYm Utm YYj] BPp EYdL
TVuTjRlT\. ToYV JW Np Njm TVL BPp CPYp
BPu YYjt Ht\ LLs CdL Yim J BP JYW EPd
Ht\Y AUV XdLs dV TeLtu\].
5.3.2. EYm Utm YYm
EYm: EYm GuT [m, ALXm, BZm Tu\ TUQeL[ EPV J
Ts Bm, SLLm Um T, URu EYm EPVp Ut\m AP\.
YYeLs : J Tu Yl\ TUQeL[ Yd\. BP YYUlu
Xm J UR EPu YYm CVtLVL YlTjRlT\. B]p X
NUVeLp YYjR Lj\. EPu YYU] Aks[ URu
TtV RLYpL[ AUVL YlTjm.
JYo EYm Utm YYm Utm BPu LLs UjR EYjR
EYdm. CY BPu GpXdL Bm (silhoutte YWm CpXR
GpXdL) J BPd pah Rp AlWVjR HtTjm H]p
Wjp Ck BPu GpXdL TodLlT\. Utm GoU\VLj Ru\f
NnVlT\. EPp JhVT BP ClTR EPu TpY TLu
YYjRm BPu LlT, Tih Utm `ohLu YYjRm
YlTjm.
JqY SLL LXLhPjm, J YYm UYL Rum ApX W]
YlTm. GYm JqY LXjm BPdL] lhP YYm Cdm.
oU]m NnVlThP YYjR BPu AlTP YYjR Ut\Up YThP
vPp Ut AUdLXm. [of HtTjRd VRLY, CdLULY,
YhPU]RLY ApX [ULY, J L ApX WdXu BL CkRm
BPu AlTP YYm U\dP. BLY BP YYUlT[o GUV]
BPPu (YWeLs CpXR GpXd LPu (silhoutte) V EYYjR
RokRj EYd iP LXjt TVuTU Yjd LsY \lT]Rm.
YYm Utm EYm BV CWim X YTLPu JuPu Ju]
TUt\m Nn TVuTjRlT\. EYm Gu\ Np TYL C TUQ
TLp ApX YYeLp Utm lTUQ YY A[YLp ApX UjR
W[L YYm Gu LRlT\. CPYL[ Ju\dL LLs CQdLlTm
T, AY GpXdL, UTs[ YYeLs, ApX YYm BVYt\
EYdu\]. C TUQ YYm lTUQ YYjR TmT EYUL
B\. J Tu EYm YZdLUL ARu TVuThPV d\. EYm
GuT J X CQlLPu V YW\ LWL[p ZlThs[. YYm
GuT AlTPV] Jup Ck Ut\u\ YTjRdV. Lhp Ck
EYdLlThP UTs[ YYeLs, J UhP R[ju GpXdL ApX UjR
55

Tu GpX GuTRm dLXm. JqY Rjm, YYm GuT lhP

LLs ApX NUR[eL[p tl\ CPY ApX uT CPjp Ck
EYjRp dLlTYRm.
AXeLWju dV Xd EYm Bm. EYjp AZu, AUV]
YiQm, \jRt\jRuUPu AXeLWm NnVlThPp, A ETVLUt\R
m. J Ts SpX EYjPu CdL C CuVUVR LjLs Gu]Yp
ARu TVuTht TjRU]RL CdL Yim. GkR T[p
NnVlThs[R, AR]p EV] [Y HtTjR Yim.
YYeLm, EYeLm u Y] L[L YLlTjRlThs[].
CVtLV] YYeLs EXp Es[ EYeLs Utm ZYeL[ dm. CkR
YYeLs YZdLUL GUVdm NVpThu XUL WdLlT\. Gu\m
CuVUVR TiL[p CVtL Y[eLs Rd YdLlTu\]. CWiPm
YL YYm Utm EYm jRdLl ThP (abstract) Bm. SUd Su
TZdLlThP \ThLs Utm CVtLp Es[ ThLp Ckm YYm
Utm EYm T\lT\. Gu\m, AY WLdLlTh, LTjRlTh,
im SP\ TjRlTh, X NUVeLp AeLWjt AlTtTh
NnVlT\. u\mYL YYm Utm EYm GuT Ts NokRY ApX.
Ts NokRY ApXR YYeL[ YlTPVL GkR lPlThP
TPm JlPV. CkR YLLs, VU EYeLs Utm
TVWd YYeLs Es[]. X Ts NokRY ApXR YYU], LW
NVpThu [YL Pd\. CY NtLu T[ (meaning) u]ULd
Lidm. Ut\Y ToYVp \lTm V Utm U\ks[ LjdL[
YlTj Tp TY Bm.
A) u dLlThP Utm RjRuU YnkR V YYju YLLs
SoLP] NWm ApX NqYLm, LQeLs dLQm ApX mYYm,
Y[LLs YhPm, EiP, L[m, [ E[YYm
YZdLU] EYjp, Y[L YYeLs GuTY YhPU]Y, SoLP]
YYeLPs RPo TpLQ LhPeLs YhPjds XVL Tj
YdLlThPYm APem. CYts, Lm lm TVL Es[ V
YYeLs YhPm, dLQm Utm NWm dVU]Y Bm. CkR AlTP
YYeLs lTUQjts YdLlTmT EiP, [ E[YYm,
m, L[m, Tu\Y EiPs[].
(i) NWeLs Utm NqYLeLs : NW EYm, nU Utm AYt\X

dm. TdLeLu NUU] A[m, Su NeLQm NWju

Je\Vm RYm HtTj\. J NW YYjt mTjRdL
ApX BdLPV N Gu GpX. NWm ARu J TdLjp Nnk
Cdm T XV] NkRU] EYUL Es[, B]p NWju A]j
JWeLm J Xp Nok Cdm T lTL R\. NWU]
StTiLPu V NdVL Cdm, B]p WjVLUL TVu TjRlTm
56

T NlhPd VR \. (CR]p Ru J XW NWm G]

AZd\u.) NWju ALXm/ [m NodLlTh YTLs LiPR NqYLm
G] LRlT\. NqYL YYju R Utm XljRuU ToYd
Ut\pXR NlT HtTjm. A[Ls, TUQm, YiQm, \jRt\RuU,
CPjp AUojRp ApX jRdLm NnRp Xm Ut\eL[ j TXYLL[
T\m.
ii) dLQeLs:

JtU Utm NXV HtTjm. dLQm

XljRuUV dm. dLQ YYju NVXtm RuU ARu u
LQeLs Es[ RPoT Bm. CkR LQeLs YTPXm. dLQeLs,
NWm, NqYLjR P Y[k Ldm RuU YnkRY Bm. C
A]jRm P dLQjR YNVL CQj TX NWeLs, NqYLeLs
Utm TXLQ YYeL[ EYdLXm. m YYeLs Utm dLQeLs,
NqYLm, NWeLp Ck AYtu lT] CVem Ti Utm ALUL
Y[k Ldm RuU BVYt\p UTh Es[.
iii) YhPeLs: YhP EYeLs GlTm TVuEs[RLm, SdLULm Cdm.

JtU, RPof Utm dL]ju EYUL [e\. YhPm, URu Utm

CVtLu TLdLlTP YiV Utm dL] YYUL Lr\. Um
YhPjts AL A[p CPm Utm \kR TWl Es[. YhP YYm NRWQUL
Xlj RuUPu, AR] UVUL Yj ARu Zp Cdm. Ut\ \
LLs Utm YYeLPu CQk CdmT, ANY Tu
YlTPVL Rm.
B) TeLU (Pattern) : TeLU GuT Ut\jp \lT] AUlTf
NnRX Bm. Ul EYjp AXeLW AVL AUdLlThP C TUQm
ApX lTUQm Bm. \jRt\jRuU Utm EYeL[p TeLUY
EYdL YRp, RlThPYW ThLu YYeLp TeLUY LQXm.
TeLUt TVoRp Ei, BLY GkR Tp AZhPlThs[R, AkR
Tu NXVjt Ht\Y TeLUY AUdL Yim.
UjR AXeLWj]m TeLUYp JeQdL m.
J BPp TVuTjs[ AXeLdLlThP TeLUu RWj]d
Li X oQVm NnVlTYpX. XVokR BPLd UhU
Lf \kR YYUlT[oLs Tp AUojRlT\oLs. Gu\m, BPLp
Es[ NuLs, Ut AUdLlTh, ApX lLhPL, ApX Ut\u\
Toj NnVlThPRL XUY] ThLp Sm Li\m. TeLUPu
V ThLs, h] AXeLdm \ ThLs, Utm L[ Lr YnkR
YYUlT[o Nu NnRR YeY ELkR. LoYu WN]V
RVlT[oLs GlTU \j Ulh, XUkR \kR RWU] NuL[
Yj ThL[ AXeLj tT]d LiYYo. RWm\kR ThLs
RW Y ThLs PdLR LWQjRp UdLs RWUt\ ThL[ YeL
iPlT\oLs.
57

TeLU GuT BZU] UVV Rtj, BPp J TiT

Nod\. TeLU GuT UjR Nu Bm. U@l GuT TeLUu
RlThP J T Bm. UjR TvLUY RtdL U@lL[ im
im CPm T\f Nn, p Nu EYdLlT\. CR] \V]
Nu Gu LRXm JeL] ApX \V] im im U@l CPm
TRp, ApX \Vt\ JeLt\ \p U@lLs CPm TRp.
TeLUPV V RokRdm T, p Nu Utm YiQm
Lm dVUm. Xm Utm ed, TolsLs, UqLs (mauves) Utm BlLhLs
Rp Tvu APo Xm YW, BrkR U_kR Utm GdLlThP BWgf,
Utm YiQ sLs Utm LLs Tu\ TeLULs Es[]. lhLs
YdLlTP YiV.
ReLPpLp AUdL YiV dLeLs
WfXLs, Tu\Ytt Ls Yem T L[ AYtu
TvLU GqY AUm GuTR Rk YjdL Yim. J X NuLs,
lhLs, dLeLp TVuTjRlTm T Eo Tu\]. B]p Ut\ X
TeLULs ARu RdLjR CZdu\].
CPm YYeLd CPV Rum TWlT TYL CPm Gu
LRlT\. BPp AL CPY CkRm, CPY Cu YYUlLs
ALm CkRm TolTRt LYofu NlT HtTjm, J BPp LLs
AUk CkRp \o ToYV LYok Cdm. Y[kR LLs CVtLVLY
UR EPPu AL RPoPV]. NejR] LLs EPX UYL Ru\f
Nnm RuU YnkRY. UhPd LLs ALXjR dm \u YnkRY.
L, YYm, CPm, ApX EYm, BV] UTm CPm Tt\X ApX
AL jVNjR HtTj]X AYVm LYdL YiV dVjYjR
(emphasis) Tm.
5.3.3. YiQm
YiQm GuT GYWm WLdL VR J dV LX Xd Bm.
YiQj] EQok TWhRp GuT U]Yf NokR NVpT, A]YWm
EQW V; B]p \ LX XdL[] L, EYm, \jRt\jRuU
Tu\Y TWhPlTRp NRWQU]RpX GuTm, Aj\u NokR GuTm
[em. YiQm, EXL[p U]Urf HtTjRd V J BRWl T[m.
YiQm A]YWm Urf HtTYRtLL TVuTjRlT\. Utm URoLs
Ym Zp YiQm ARu FdLlTj;m []p NhPlTYRt
TVuTjRlT\.
CkR EXLm UeV, NmTp \m Rp YY] JUVU] \m YW, JdL
\m Tu\YL[p WTlThs[]. Sm A]j \eLu TVoL[m
pVUL Rk Li ]p YlT GuT L]U] NVXm. \m,
Ul, BrkR N BV] YiQju TUQeLs Bm. CkR NtL[
TVu Tj YiQju TUQeL[ NVpTjRXm. \m GuT Yl, Xm
58

ApX TfN YiQd mTl TVo Bm. \m Gu\ Np AL AYp YiQm

Gu\ Npd Ut\L TVuTjRlT\.
SNu SVm GuT Rh EQoY, Utm Wlj RuUu
A[, u UuU BV], SNu SVm AklTYo \W LY]jR
LYok TodLf Nnm. u \V Uj iP YYUlT[o ToYh,
SNu RuU Utm ] Tt Um Ak LiPp YYUlTRt
TRVL Cdm.
J URu Rp AlWVjR YiQm HtTjYRp YiQjR Ro
Nnm T kR LY]jPu NVpTP Yim. JYW Rt\jR YiQm
UuU Tjm ApX GoU\V] TlTm HtTjm RuUV Tts[.
L GV BPp RkR YiQeL[ TVuTjmT, \lT] [L[
HtTjm.
i) YlTU] Utm o \eLs : \eLs YlTU]Y Utm ofV]Y

Gu YWVdLlThs[]. Slp Rum \eLs Vm YlTU] \eLs.

AY Yl, UgNs Utm BWg Bm. ofV] \eLs GuT] Y]m
Ut\m u \m, TfN, Xm, YVXh BV]Ym. \ju YlTm ApX of
GuT ARPu Es[ UVVL Rt\m Adm EVWUm. YlTU] \eL[]
UgNs, BWg, Yl BV] UuUV] \eLs G]d \lTu\]. H]p
AY u]d SLm UVV EYdu\]. YlTU] \eLs ThLs,
YYeLs ApX CPeLs TVRL Rt\UdLm, AL dVjYm YnkRm,
Ut\ \ \eL[ P SdLU]RLm Cdm. EPp A[ Utm EPp UTs[
YYeLd ALU] AjRjR YlTU] \eLs Ldu\]. o\eLs
ThLs, YYeLs ApX CPeL[ VRL Ru\f Nnm. dVjYm
ApXR Utm \ \eLp Ck Nt ALu CdU Ru\f Nnm.
o\eLs EPp A[Ls Utm YYjR RLd Lhm.
Ul GuT J YiQjR YVRLY ApX APoY]RLY
RU Ydm. J YiQju UlT UtYRt Ys[ ApX
Ll\m NodLlTh, YiQjR YU\ ApX APodLRLY Ut\m
T\fNn\.
ii) EPp A[ Utm EYm RPoPV Ul: BP Ro NnYp UlT

TVuTjY Lm dVm. CRu Xm WldLRL LjRd LYm

[Ls Utm A NokR EPp AeLeL[ U\lTRtm TVuTjRlT\.
Ulu EfN A[ YV ApX APo kR ApX Ld\kR UlLs,
ThLu YYeLs ApX TLu Yl\ GpXLhP dm. Utm
EPp Es[ U Ts[ Y[ SL[ YlTjm. lTL, YfNm
kR TLp SWeLp, Ys[ \m YV UlPV, Ll \m APo
kR UlPV. Ys[ Utm Ll EPLs TYL EV] GoU\
UlL[ Adm. TLp SW YfNjR P CW SW YfNju Ul
\YRp YZdLUL APo kR Ul dL BPL[ UXp AY
u] Z p Ju\n Nok m. EPp EYjR YlTjR
59

mTRYoLd, \ju Ulu [L[ u] Zp GP BdY

Lm dVm.
WU \eLs ApX APo: WU GuT \ju nUV Ydm.
WU \ju Ul EV] Utm YUVt\, JUVU] Utm UeV
ApX N X A[u T YlTjRlT\. \m Utm APoY
GlTm Ut\ V B]p WU GuT Lm hTU] Np. BLVp
CY \ CXdVjp, AL\ TVuTjRlT\. EVoRW WU \eLs
nUV], YUV], JdL, NX \eL[m. \kR UlPV
WU \eLs AUV], YUVt\, UeLXL JVt Cdm. JkR
EV], EVoRW WU \eLs, ]lT]Y Utm EPX TV EYUL
Ru\f Nnm. UeLX]. YUVt\, \kR WU \eLs ]lTt\Y,
CY EPp EYjR VRL Ru\f Nnm.
5.3.4. \jRt\j RuU
C Nu Xd Bm. Ut\j Rt\jRm, EQoYm, Ydm.
JYo Akdm BPPu \jRt\jRuU JlPlT\. Um Ut\
\ \jRt\jRuU Y u SVm CQdLlThPPu Jlh TodLlT\.
UuUV], L]U], UR] UUlT], T[T[lT], NWNWlT]
Tu\Y \jRt\j RuUL[ YdL TVuTm Y X NtLs Bm.
\jRt\RuU CVdL L[ kLsYRp RThP LoYoLs Utm
SLL BP RVl YpSoLs BPdL] ThLs Yem Tm, NkR
AXeLldL] ThLs YemTm \lT] oU]eL[ GlToLs.
i) \jRt\jRuU J EQo oYU] GiQm: NWNWl, UuU ApX

XPu EVL RRp EQou Xm ARp BV] u RWj]

dm. \jRt\jRuU GuT ThLu Ut\ RWeL[ dm. \jRt\j
RuUu ToY Rt\m GuT LiL[p T\lTY. H]p, Tu
UtTWlp YfNm EgNlTRp A[T, WTdm A[Ym Nok Es[.
\jRt\jRuUV GlTm R EQom Xm Ak Ls[ \,
B]p J Tu RWj] EQo Xm AV YiV AYVm CpX.
NhuLp T[T[lT] \jRt\jRm, LmTp UeLX] \jRt\jRm
LQXm. GP, A[, TUu, YYm Tu\ TUQeL[ \jRt\j RuU
Lis[. Yl\ TUQeL[ LiL[m T\ m. JqY dm
EQoRp, TojRp ApX EQoRm, TojRm Tu\ \j Rt\j RuU YnkR
TiLs Es[].
EQoRp UuUV] UUlT], YYlT] NWNWlT]
TojRp T[T[lT] UeLX], LidlXl TPRF TodLdV
XN]
EQoRp Utm TojRp L]U] UpV, Ttd Lsm PU].

60

ii) \jRt\jRuUV oUdm BdLd Ls: BdLd TL[ p

WL AUjRuXm \jRt\ RuU oUdLlT\. Z, dZ,

Utm EYdm\ BVY BdLdLs Bm. (Em) SN ApX
u]lTRp Utm V \ NnRp. SZLs ZL[L SnVlTh,
TpY \jRt\jRuULs LiP L[ EYdL TVuTu\].
EYdLlThP u LdLlTm \ \jRt\jRuU Utm \ QeL[
p HtTjm. V GqY TVuTjRYim GuTR \jRt\m
oUd\. u \jRt\ TiL[ JjWR BP NuLs lLWUL
CdL.
A) \jRt\jRuUp SLLm: SLLjp SilhouetteLs Utm \eLs Yk,
Tn Lidm. J BPu vPp GqYL \jRt\m TVuTjR Yim
GuTR oUdm RVXPLs NV] LfRU] TjRjtLL Yh
RdLlT\. ReLRp R[oY] UlLPu AUdL Yim.
LdLlThP LLp ApX R[oY] UlLp ReLm \]
ReRXm. H]p, \jRt\m BP vPm CQ JjRYVm.
\jRt\jRuU Utm BP NuLs SLLjtLL im im
CPYh RuY Bm.
B) \jRt\jRuUV RokRjRp: JYW EPt Rm, Rp,
RXu \jRt\m Utm BUVd LjpLi \jRt\ RuUV
Ro NnV Yim.
C) EPt Rjp \jRt\jRuUu [: \jRt\ RuUp
JYW TiL[] GP, A[, TUu, YYm, J EgRp, Utm WTl
Tu\Y APes[]. \jRt\m UVV HtTjm, AR]p EPpA[
Rjp Ut\m HtTj TU]LY, UkRYWLY LhPXm.
SLL Rp YpSoLs Utm LoYo, u \jRt\m BPu
Nu BVYtu CVdLj] Ljp Ls[ Yim. Um V
RokRlTYW EPp, U]m Utm NLTiLs Tt AkjRp AYVm.
5.4. BP YYUlu VLs
Lp NuL[ Ro Nn Yem TR ApX EYdm
Tm YZdLUL BP YYUlu VLs TVuTjRlTu\]. YqY
BPL[ Ro NnmT Uhm YYUl VLs ERY CpX B]p
TpY BPL[m, AR] NokR T[ JeQj UV]
TjRU] BPVm T YYUlu VLs ERVL Es[. YqY
YLV] YYUlL[ LXSVjR EYd SojVL YlTj
ToYV[oL[ LYmT AUdL BP YYUl VLs TVuT\. BP
YYUl VLs uYY].
5.4.1. NUX,
5.4.4. NV] AUl,

5.4.2. Ajd LhRp,

5.4.5. CVtLV] CQl.
61

5.4.3. XVm,

5.4.1. NUX
BP YYUlp NUX GuT J UVl Tk ToYV
Njm T NUUL RuY Bm. NUX GuT YYUl YWeL[
pVUL JLlTj NUU] GP ApX Dodm EQoY HtTj J
TdLjp Ck Ut\ TdLjtm, u Tk u Tdm ApX Up
Tk r T YW WL CdmT NTj, BPV ATYoLd
YNVL, CRUL Cdm RdLjR HtTjYRm. ELkR NUXp A]j
YYUl TLm JeQdLlTh lLWU] JtUV ToYp
HtTjm. BP YYUlp 3 RU] NUXLs Es[].
YYUl XdL[], L, EYm, YYm, CPY, YiQm Utm
\jRt\jRuU BV] NUXp CkRp, U]d jRU] XVjR
HtTj PXm. BP YYUlTp, u YLV] NUXV LQ\.
A) \V] NUX C UhLp NUX ApX TXhWp NUX Gum
AZdLlTm.
B) \lTpXR NUX C HUhdLp NUX ApX AdLph NUX
Gu AZdLlT\.
C) BWeL]p NUX
A) \V] NUX (Formal Balance) : J Ts UjV Tp Ck NUWjp
YNlTjRl ThkRm, UTm Ru Ju\Pu NUUdLlTh
CkRm \UV] NUX EYm. YYUlu Up Utm r TLs
NUX HtTjm Rjp AUdLlThdm. BLY, rTp AL GP
ClT Tu\ Rt\m HtTPRY LYjd Ls[ Yim. ERWQm APo
\ Up NhP Ak, Yo \ LpNhP AkRp, J URu AY]
EVWjR P AL s[U] Rt\jR LhVlTu. BPLp \V]
NUXp ALU] ERWQeLs Es[]. N] EYdm TL[ Tjm
CPAUlp NUXTjRlTmT \V] NUX NuLs
XljRuUV HtTjm AlWVjR EYdm. EPLp \V]
NUX, EPp Es[ \TL[ Ajd Lh\.
B) \lTpXR NUX (Informal Balance) : im NnRp Xm CpXUp,
JeLt\ \p ThLs AUdLlThdm Xp ThLs Ju\
Ju NUuTjY Tu\ Rt\jR HtTjY \lTpXR NUX.
Cm\p YYeLs TpY A[Lp, YYeLs Utm TpY ReLp
LYoY Tp AUdLlThdm. LlTV LYofV] YYUlLs UjV
Tp Ck RXp YdLlTh Cdm. \lTpXR YYUlLs
NV] \p LV[lThPp, ARu Dol RuU Lm \lT] [Y
HtTjm.
BP YYUlT[d AYo ]jRR YlTjm RkWjR
\lTpXR NUX Ld\. J EPp Tv T \lTV]
62

NUX BLm, vLoh Nu \lTVpXR NUXVLm Cdm T

HtT\. C Tu AUdLlTm T XVm Utm \ TLPu Es[
RPom CpX Tu\. C GW] [L[ LiP YqY TL[
CQdm T, Nu LXYV] ELkRRL Rum.
C) BWeL]p NUX (Radial balance) : YYUlu dV TeLs UjV
Tp Ck TWYf NnYRp HtTYR BWeLu NUX. \UV]
NUXp AL A[p UjRUL BPL[ \kR NXp EtTj NnVXm.
\lTpXR NUXp BPL[ EtTj NnY Lm L]m. BPu
JqY TLjtm YhYR TpY ReLp LV[ Yim. UjV
sV m sVL BWeL]p HtTm NUXp TVuT\. hv,
CQl TLs, dLeLs, PohLs, U@lLs msp Ck TW V
LoLs TWm [Y HtTj\.
5.4.2. AjdLhPp
J TLju BdLjR ARPu RPoPV TLeL[ Rj NnYRd
dm. J SpX YYUl GuT A]YW LY]jRm, DodLdVRLm,
H]V ThLs AkR YYUld QVLm Cdm. YYUlT[oLs
U\] L, SVm, YiQm BVYt\ LY]UL TVuTjYRu Xm
AjdLh LY]jR DodLXm. CR] UVls T (Focal point) Gu
\Xm. J EPu \lhP TV Toj Dodm Rjp JqY
YYUlm AUVl TtlT AYVm. jVN]U] YiQjR J
Tp TVuTj Ajd LhPXm. Ys[\ Lj LXo Utm L@lLs
LiP Ll \ EP AklTYu LLs Utm LjR TodU
ToYV[u LY]m DodLlTm.
Ajd LhYRtL] X Y\Ls
A) YYUl ThL[ Lj YjRp, B) NoTt\ \eL[
ETVjRp, C) YZdLU] LLs, D) UtVYL[ CQj TVuTjRp,
E) PdLs, dLeLs TjRuLs RVYL[ im TVuTjRp, F)
ANRWQ EYeLs Utm SVeLs, G) YYUlLdj RY] u\m
AUjRp.
LY]jR Dodm UVl Tp LY]m Nj YYUlT[o EP
ATYu EYm Utm BUd RkRY \lTL YYUdLXm.
im im YRp ApX ok SdRp XUL AjdLhPX
T\Xm. GPV] u] Zp AXeLlT-.
5.4.3. XVm
XVm GuT jVNjPu ApX TpY YYjp YYUlL[
JuQk NlT HtTjRRY AUlT Bm. Rm, NUX, CQl,
Ajd LhPp BVYtu LhTLs JeL] \p TVuTjRlTU
V]p, CVL YYUlp XVjR T\Xm. Rp EPu TpY TLeL[
63

(L, TYP, LjlTh Tu\Y) YYju vPd RkRY EYd

JqY Tm Ut\uPu XVjPu AUdLl T\ Yim.
5.4.4. Rm ApX WV[
NV] Rm GuT J EPp Es[ TpY YYUl YWeLu
A[Ldm, EPp Es[ \ YWeLdm CPV Es[ RPoTm.
Rm GuT EVWm, ALXm, BZm, Utm JqY N] ts[
CPYd EiP] RPoTm Lis[. ReLp Es[ YTLs
NuL[ Ut\up Ck YTj Lh\. (Em) 5 NqYLeLu
ReL[ LY. TPm (1--5) G [U]? G ALXU]? J BPdL]
CPYV jRp Xm Lm JpV] UV RttjR G Adm? G
EVWU]? G hPV]?

Gi: 1 BPu YYjp YvhXu CpX, lh Tu.

Gi: 2 BP YYm GmlTVo X] dm, EVWU] YvhX] Tvhu
r Lis[.
Gi: 3. CVtLV] YvhX] d\, RpRW NoWv, Yvh[ _dLh
Utm vLoh
Gi: 4. YvhXu l A[t C\ehPR d\, _dLh Utm
NA[[ TV Lis[.
Gi: 5. [ _dLhPm, hP TYPVm d\, vLohUp 3/4 [
Lh Utm [ R[oY] EhNhP.
A) CPlTu WdL : 2:3 Rjp J CPm TdLlThPp LiLd
Lm lLWUL AUm, ERWQm, J EPp T [jPu vLoh [
Rm 2 : 3 Gum, Vd [jPu T[ Rm NUUL CdL Yim.
TdLhLs Tp Utm vLohLm NUU] Rjp CjRp AYVm.
B) WV[: EPdm, EPp Es[ YWeL[] PohLs, UlLs, jWdLX
Tu\YLu RPoT dm Utm EPV ElTYodm, EPdm Es[
RPoTd dm. ERWQm, TV A[p Ald, Uh@lLs V EPp
AUlT GuT V[ LhThP YRm.
64

5.4.5. CQl
CQl GuT LiLu ToY RPu YYUlu J Rp
Ck Ut\ Rd XTUL CVeY Bm. BLY CQl EYYm
EPp JeQlT HtTjR Yim. \V] YYeLs im, im
TVuTjRp Utm AXeLWRW YXlTL[] PdLs, UlLs, vLXlLs
(scallops) TjRu Tu\Y XUL CQlT T\ m. A[Lu HYN
AUlm CQlT HtTjm. CqYL X NUVjp \ CQlTL
\lT\.
LLs, YYeLs, YiQm Utm SVeLs BVYt\ CQj CQlT
Tt YYUlT uYU T\Xm.

JeL] LjRjRp, SUVm, p YYUl Utm AfNdL[ im,

im TVuTjRp.

LjRjRp, YiQeLs, SVeLs Utm YYUlp u]t\ Td

ApX TWYf NnRp.

TWYf NnRp ApX UVl sp Ck TX N Sdf NpRp

YYUlp YXlTL[] dLeLs, UlLs, PdLs, PohLs
Tu\Ytp HtTjRp.

LLs RPofVL YiQlThPLs, SVeLp Utm YYUlLp

LQlTRp.

Np ALXU] CPYp UlLs TjRl TmT CQl

CpX Tn \. Yhmu, BP EYmu CkR NuLs
dLUL Ul NnVlTPYim BP Nu, p Es[ Np
RPL[ HtTj, TX dLX] [L[ HtTjm.
BP RokRjRp, RPoPV CQlLs, RX vPp,
LAUlp jReLs NnRp Tu\ A]jm Ut\m Nn, JqY
LoYo Utm, SLL Rp Yp]oLs \kR YYUlT[WL, LXQo
dL BPL[ EYdu\]o.
5.5. BPL[ Nu NnYRtL] lLs
AlTP Nu XdL[] YiQm, L, \j Rt\jRuU, YYm
Utm EYjR CQj AZL], BoYU], AUV] [L[ HtTjR
Yim. CRt JYo LX Utm LX Xd LhTL[] XVm, Rm,
NUX, CQl, AjdLhPp Tt AklT AYVm Bm. CkRd
LhTs SpX WN] kR NuL[ EYdLm, NuL[ hTUL Ul
NnVm ER\.
WN], LtT], Utm \UV Y[oj, TVuTj GqY NuL[
EYdYn? RXYRL, T`u TjdLLs, TZeLX SLL EPLs TPm
LiP jRLeLs, RV Utm GVW EPLs TPm LiP jRLeLs,
65

UXYr UdLu EPLu TPeLs LiP jRLeL[ ToYh AkR

NuL[ NLj A TtV GiQeL[ EYdL Yim. AeLhVLjp
YdLlThs[ ALXuLs, WjTt\ TPeLp Es[ UdLu BPLs Utm
RtTRV BVjR BPLu vPpLs LPp YdLlThs[R LYjm,
U TPdLhLp, ToLp, LPLp, ZdLp Su EPVkRYoL[
EulTL LYdL Yim. EulTL LYjRp SU LiLd NRWQ
NuLp Ck RjRuU YnkR NuL[ YjRm, SpX NuLs
Utm Nt AZLt\ NuL[ LiPm \UV SUd Ad\.
CWiPYRL, NuL[ YWV Ltd Ls[ Yim. Wv TlTW
TVuTj RtTs[ T`u ULuLp Ckm J X NuL[ LY]UL
Wv NnV Yim. \, l aih YWRX Tt NnVm, Rp Toj,
NuL[ YWk \ Et LYj N] LY]UL Nn, \YL U]p
Es[R vLhf NnL, SpX Tt PjRu, LPLp Utm ZdLp Et
LYjR BPLu N] LReLp Nn TodLm.
u\YRL, Nu YWeLs AXeLWYWeLs, vPX BPu Nu,
ElTYu BUV U]pLi BVYtPu RPo Tj LX
LhTL[ Su dLUL LYjRu NuL[ Ul Nnm \]
Y[ojd Ls[Yim.
SuLYRL, RtTRV T`uLs, TpY YLV] BURuU
LiPo, TpY YV ]o, Tp, ZdLs, Utm LWQeLd Ht\Y
TjRUL TpY NuL[ EulTL LYj Ht\Y UtAUj Nu
NnYRt Tt T\ Yim. J Np Ck Ut\eLs Nn Tj
NuL[ YWV Yim.
\YL Tt Xm, LYjRp Xm, TpY NuL[ YWk Tt\
ATYjRp, NkRUL N] EYd, TlTp LtT]VL YWk TZL
Vt NnVm.
5.5.1 AlTP YhLs ApX vPpLs
Lv ApX A Xu vPp (TPm A) CkR EP JW ip YvhXu
m Cu YhPlT\. CkR vPp ^d (Sacque) lh (Shift) Gu \lT\.
C uTs ZkRLu EPLs, PvPoLh (duster coat) CW EPLd
Ht\. YvhXp [ HtTP, Tph TVuTjRXm. CkR vPp
YvhXu ApX vLohTp AL UlL[ j, PohP LVi,
Yh Nn, dm \ TVuTjRXm. C[YW vPp (TPm B) CkR YL
EPp YvhXu m CpX, B]p TPjp Es[\ Tp NejR] m
Es[ ApX [ EPp vPp (TPmC) RrkR Yvh LiP vLohPu
NokR EP YdLlThP YvhXp CQdLlThs[. (TPm D)
CkR vPp vLoh dLQ YY i p RdLlTPXm (gored)
dLeLPu, UlLPu, T[T[lT] ApX YhPU] A[m CdLXm.
CkR vPp Tv T, CVtLV] YvhXp \m Ci EP
66

(TPm E) (E.m.) ^Loh, [v EPu u Tp YvhXu m Cdm,

B]p u \jp A Xu YLVL Rum.

(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

(e)

5.5.2. AlTP pahLs

pahLs GuT] UeV u]p Poh ZY GpXdL GuTRm.
J BP Nu pah GuT ATYu Yl\ YYdLPm. pah,
u \jRt\m, BPu Yh, BPu [m, ALXm, YvhXu
X, RsThP u [jRf Nok YWVdLlT\. pahLs GuT]
hXo, SoUp, A Xu, Tp, eeT@Tuh (clinging bouffant) Gu
YLTjRlThs[]. hXo pahu AlTP AmNm LX] vLoh
Bm. (TPm 1-A) A Xu pah GuT XN] @l[Pu B] vLoh Bm.
(TPm 1 B) Tp pah GuT vLoh. AL dLeLs, UlLs, lhLs
ApX @l[o Li Cdm. (TPm 1 - C) SjRW Tpp ahP Lh\.
(TPm 1 D) ALlTV] Tppah C XSWjp T@Tuh pah (bouffant
silhouaette) G] \lT\. BoLi, P@ThP Ls Tu\ WlT] Ls
T@Tuh [L[ Ldm. @p Yp (full voile) Tu\ Ls ee
pahL[ EYdm. JpV] EYeLm, TU]] EYeLm
ALlTV] hXo ApX ee vPpLs Utm L ALU] T@Tuh
vPpL[ RodL Yim.

(1a)

(1b)

(1c)

(1d)

LYYeLs, ao vPpLs Utm Sd XuLd Ht\Nu XdLs:

67

A) LYYeLs: T`u ULuLs TpY BoYdL LeL[ Lidm.

AY JqYum, ARu AZL WTdm. (Fred Feucht) @Wh lNh Nu
TpY Wj Tt\ LoYu L YYeL[l Tt BWnkR. CYts
BiLd ELkR LYY AUl Nn NW YYm (PUih) Gum TiLd
CRV (heart) YY LYYm ELkR Gum LiPVlThP.
LYYeL[ LNVL YlT Lm L]U]Rm lPlTm
jRLeLs LAUlT Gh V YYeL[L s[. AY sNW
YYm (oblong), s EiP YYm (oval), EiPV] YYm (round), NqYL
YYm (Rectangle), NW YYm (Square)-, dLQ YYm (Triangular), NnNW YYm
(Diamond), CRV YYm (heart) Bm. L YYm GuT lhP LiLl
Li CPY TjRp, uSt TUQm, Lu] ALXm, LYn L Tu\
iV NR] Xm LiPVlThP L Rt\jp EY] LLs AL
BoYm HtTjm. Xd lhP L YYm CdL. B]p TX YYeLs
CQk Cdm.

B) SdXu: LXoLs Utm XTpv CQk SdXuLs GuT] BP EYdL

YWeLdL] LYYUm.
SdXu YYm GuT BP Nu LL[ Yj oUdLlT\.
NW YY LeLs NW SdXu Aj LhPp Xm, EiP YY
EiPV] SdXu Utm NW SdXu Xm, NnVlT\. J dLQ
YY Lm hPV] SdXu XUL NW LYn L [ULd LhPlT\.

68

Lj ALXm Utm [m, Lj CPYp LL[ TVuTj

Ut\lT\. Em. UhPdLhP SdXd Up CPjR TdL TVuTj
[d Lj Nt hPVL RuU NnVlT\.
SdXu Ak hPV] Lj [U] Ru\f NnVlT\.
SdXu GuT ASLUL J BPu LYm TVL Es[. CkR
[Y Ru \m Yj N NnVXm. TWu\ ApX GPV]
YiQeL[ TVuTj SdXu TV LY]jR DodmT NnVXm.
C) aovPpv : RXl T Utm EPp EYjR LY]jp Li
aovPp LLs Bn NnVlT\. YhP LjR RdL, YUL
YhPULY, ApX SWLY CpXR aovPX RokR, dLQ YY
Ljd, Lju X TihLp LXLm, ALXjp pSv^ (fullness)
RodLm.
W
Nu NVpT JuPu Ju RPoPV [vd XdL[] CPY,
YYm, EYm Utm L BVYt\ TVuTj\. L SWLm, Y[km
Cdm. J SodL YThP [Y EPp HtTjm. AkR SodL,
NejRL, UhPdLPL (ALXUm), NnkR L (Rm) ApX Y[k Y[k
(Nd Ldm) Npm LL[ Tj [] HtTjm. Y[kR LLs,
AkR lhP TV UuUVdm. CkR Nu Xds BP
RokRdm Tm L YYm, aovPp, SdXp HtTjm [Ls
Tt Ak CkRp, Sm \TL[ GRL NTjRXm.
]dLs
I.

NV] PV RokRdLm

1.

LX XlThLs GuT] ________

A) UVls

2.

C) LLs

D) APV[m.

________ LLs AZLm, TiU QjRm HtTjm.

A) Nej L

3.

B) [vd
B) UhPdL

C) Y[kR L D)- XhPdL.

EPu YYU] ________ TtV RLYpL[ AUVL YlTjm.

A-) Aks[ URu B) YdLV[o C)- YYUlT[o D) ToYV[o

II. 2 UlTi ]dLs

1.

EY YYUlT Y

2.

AXeLW YYUlT Y

3.

LX YYUlu XlThL[ ThVL. HRm Ju\ Y.

69

4.

EP YYUjRp TVuTjRlTm LhTLs VY?

5.

YYUlLs GqY YLTjRlThs[]?

III. 5 UlTi ]dLs

1.

lWd EYYUlp CQlT GqY EYdYn?

2.

ZkRLu EP; LY]jR DolTRtm Utm UTL[m GqY

HtTjYn?

IV. 10 UlTi ]dLs

1.

mTj RkR BU TYp LXd LhTLu Te Gu] GuTRd

.

2.

EY WiTL[ \dL EPLu YYUlp LXd LhTL GqY

TVuTu\]?

70

T - II
6. L[ LiPRp Utm BP EYdLjp
TVuTm AlTP RVpLs
uW
UL[ RVjRp Utm BP YYUjRd L[l TtV A
AYVU\. L[ Tt AYRt u N, u u Utm
uTdLjR ARp, u REQo Tu\ TX Y\Ls
UtLs[lT\.
BP EYdLjt AL LY]m RYlT\. BPLs LfRUL
TkYRt YYm Utm A[LdL] YhPlThP iLs NVL
TWUdLlTP Yim. U iLs YhPlThP EP] CQdLlTP YiV
AYVm.
A[ Utm YYjR TWUlTRtLL AlTP RVp ULp
TVuTjRlT\. Cl RVp Utm Tve RVp AlTP RVpLs
Bm.
6.1. u RuUV TojRp Utm RRp Xm ARp
RtTRV LXjp NkRp TX YL Ls Es[]. AY Su A[,
\m ApX NVm, i, YXlT Utm \ TRp BVYtp
YTu\]. JqY u Um BnYLeLp ARu EZdm \u
Utm ARu NY Tt Bn Nn LiPV CVXR X X\. BLY
Ls NmTkRlThP \s[YoLs V TojRp Utm RRu Xm
AYRt TU] ATYm TtjRp CuVUVR. CRu Xm NV]
V RYLd Ht\oTp RokRdLXm.
6.1.1. L[ TojRp Utm RRp XUL Ak LsYRtL] lLs

TjLs WlTL Cdm. Gp LNem. LNe]p dLeLs

p AlTV um.
Th Ls RYRt UuUVL Cdm.
LmT Ls UtTWlp RmT NWNWlTL Cdm, UtTWlp
LmT So CZLs Rum.
TVvPo Utm WVu Ls T[T[Yum RYRt UuUV]RLm
Cdm. CY Gp LNeL.
p Ls TodmT NnYL Es[ Tu\ [] HtTjm.
RmT NWNWlT] RuUV Lidm.
SlTh Ls (Tp Utm YpYh) fLs ApX CZL[
Lidm. CY RYRt UuUVL CdL Yim.
SXu Utm Nhu Ls YYlTL Cdm. CqYL Ls JV
WTdm.
71

6.2. p
u NV LiPRp
SnRp Utm BP EYdLjp u N Lm dV Te
Ydu\. u N SLL BPLp dV Te] Yd\. u N
Ls Utm BPLs \ NnVlTYp UmTj LhYRt ER\.
G]Y p Es[ u NV TtV A YeLX BPYYUlT[oLs.
BPL[ EYdTYoLs Utm RtNXLp Tm SToLd
Tm ERm.
6.2.1. u p N (Grain)

u p GuT SN NnVlThP p u NV d\.

u NpYhw KWjt SWL Npm p Yol ApX SoLh p
Gu \lT\. u NpYhw KWjt dLL Npm p WlTY
ApX d Lh p Gu \lT\. NpYhw GuT p
\NnVlThP LhV] KWm Bm. TPjp, u p VU \p
ApX Yol u X Utm Wlm u Xm, p LidLlThs[.
(TPm 6.1).
selevage

crosswise grain

TPm 6.1. Bu Wu

TPm 6.2. B@l Wu

u NV Tj (Grain) Wu CYLVL dLlT\. AY

BuWu (on-grain) Utm B@l Wu (off-grain). SoLh m Utm Ylh
m NV] Rjp ApX Np CQklT BuWu (on-grain)
G]lTm. CY NV] pNVL \lT\. C Lm dVjYm
YnkRRL LRlT\. BP YYUlu T u N NVL
CpXVu\p BPu AUl Utm TkRp NVL CdL.
d p ApX SoLh m Ylh (Filling yarns) NV] Np CpXUp
ClT B@l Wu Bm. ZLs NeLQjp AUVlT\Up Cdm.
GpX Lm RlTRt u u N NTodLlT\. (TPm 6.2).
u N NVL Cdm L[ RlTRt TVuTjR Yim. CqY
RjR BP TolTRt AZLLm, AYRt Ht\RLm Cdm. p p
d NVL (cross-grain) ClTY LXo RlTRtm, _dLh RlTRtm
TVuTjRlT\. H]p, CYtt m RuU Ei.
72

6.3. u u Utm u TdLjR LiPRp (Identification of Right and

Wrong side)

TmTX] Lu u Utm uTdLm JW UVL Cdu\]. AqY

CdmT ARu uTdLjR LiPRp Lm L]UL Es[. X NUVeLp
u uTdLjR TVuTj, TdLh Tu\ TLeLs RdLlT\. CR
RVUX ApX LiLs[Up PlT\. CkRm, J SpX BP
YYUlT[o CR RYL Lij Yo. G]Y u u Utm
uTdLjR LiPRp Lm AYVU\.
GpX Lm CZ A[L[ ThTjRUp ARu RuU Utm
TVuLs V A[p lPlThdm. CY u uTdLjp ih
NnVlThdm. Cp u YL, X, LmT TVo, , AW jW
(texmark) Utm Zu A[ BVY Cdm. CY TojRPu m
YiQm dLlThdm. UjR m JqY hPdm lLs Cdm.
lh RLYp

T
E
TEXMARK
M
A
R
K
cotton 70%
Polycoter 30%

Made in India
Rs. 72/- mt

TPm 6.3.
p Hm dLlTPpX Gu\p, LU LY]UL CdL Yim. u
Ul, SnRp, ih, RuU Utm x (finish) BVY YLhVL AU\.
TPm (6.3)
6.3.1. u u Utm u TdLjR LiPV ERm GLsLs

TYL A]j Lu uTdLm UuUVL Cdm.

LmT Utm WVu Ls, u\m YV RU UdLlThdm.

Tj ApX LhPu Ls u\m YV RU UdLlThdm.

SnVlThP Lp NuLd TVuTjV p u\m RYL Rm.

ih NnVlThP Lu u\m UeLXLm, u\m TfNu Cdm.

H]p ie TN u uTdLm UhU TVuTjRlT\.

73

u KWm u\m RYLm u\m UeLXLm Cdm.

YpYh Utm Tp (Pile fabric) Lu u\jp p RYLm,

R[oY] CZVLm Rm.

p p p uTp rSd Npm.

6.4. Clj RVp

YNVL, JeL] \p RdLlTu\ CVkWj RVX Clj RVp
G] YWVdLlT\. J L]U] u YhPlThP KWm Utm RdL
YiV CPjtm Sp Clj RVp RdLlT\. YhPlThP KWjp
Ck 0.2 N.p RdLlT\. CR]p ULu XUL YhPlThPYLp
LLm, CZ AUlm TLdLlT\. TYL Clj RVp Lj
TLm, LLs CQl TLm, _jYW TLm Utm RsTLm Tu\ Y[Y]
KWeLp RdLlTu\. YYm U\Up CdL RdLlT\. p CZ m
Nu GoTdLjk TPlT\.
Lu RuUV Nok BPu T ULs YhPlTmT d
CZp YhPlThP KWU] CRuU Ttdm. lTL, WlLs Utm
L]U] YdLdV Sm Lp CRuUV LQm. P@ThP Utm
LuYv Ls RW Ut\ A]j YL Lm CRuU HtTm.
ClRVp NnYRu SdLU d CZp YhPlThP u KWm k
PUm Uu NV] A[ U\Up ClTRtLLm, Clj RVp
NnVlT\.
p [L Utm ddL u TiLs Gu]Yp, AY
m RuU At\. B]m, XN] NnkR ddL GuT NnY] d
p CZL Bm. CkR NnY] d p CZ CRuU Lidm.
BPp C Tu\ d ApX Y[Y] KWeL[Y] u Utm u BWm
apLs, u Utm u Rs T, u Utm u Lj KWeLs Utm
BPu Nd Ht\ \ KWeLs Bm. Gu\m X Y[kR KWeLp
Clj RVpLs NnVdP. JYW EPPu LfRUL TkR YiV
TL[d LiP BPLu KWeLp CljRVp AYVm. B]p EPX
JhPUp Rj Es[ BPu TLp Clj RVp AYVm CpX. BWmT
LXjp Es[ RVpLWoLd, Clj RVp SWjR fNlTjm.
rYm TpY KWeLd Cl RVpLs TVuTjRlTYpX.

[Ydp ApX dYdp ZLs LiP KWeLs YhPlTmT.

LjlThu Tnjiu Yl\ KWeLs (YhPlTPR KWeLs)
L CQl T.

Clj RV
Y GlT?
BPdLL YhPlThP EPu, RVtLWoLu PdLs (tacks)
NnVlThPPu ApX ARt uTLY, JqY U iPL j Gj,
RYlTm KWeLp Clj RVp NnV RVoTjRm.
74

Clj RVp u J L]jp UhU NnVlT\. RVp CVkWjR

TVuTj Nt iP RVpL[L, Uu A[p Rj j \ Tt\u
jRj PdVRL RdL Yim. AR NUVjp KWeL[ JeLL
CQdL EVL CdU RdL Yim. ASL Lp, AL GPPV,
LmTLs RW, \ Lp 1/10 AeXeLs [UL RdLlTP Yim. (J
AeXjp 10 RVpLs) AL GPs[ LmT BPLp 1/8 Ae[ [ RVpLs
ThPp Ru CXYL UX CdL m.
BPLdl TjRU] pL[ TVuTjRm. H]p TjRU]
X TVuTj]p LfRUL BP RdLlThP \ X GdL YiV
AYVm HtTP. BPu EhTdLm TodmT AZLL Cdm.
CQj RdL YiV CPjt YV CPm h Clj RVX
RdLm. YhPlThP KWjp Ck 1/8 Rp 1/12 AeXjp Clj RVp
RdL Yim. ASL RVpLXOoLs 1/8 AeX CPYh CQlToLs.
H]p Clj RVpL[, ULs CQdLlThP u YV RV. Um
Cl RVpLs dLlTP YiV AYVm CpX. 1/8 AeX A[ h
Clj RVp NnmT, YYlT] Ldm, L UpV Ldm,
WkRW RVp NnV YNVL Cdm.
YhPlThP Tp Ck 1/2 AeX A[p RlT L TVs[RL
Cdm. CQl CPjt TdLjp Clj RVp CmT ]
SYP RdL YNVL Cdm. u J L]jp UhU, C L]jp
RdLlTYRX Utm YZdLUL iP RVp TVuTjYRm p
dLeLs m X HtTm.
UYL CVkWjs Ck V YV GdL Yim. GqY[
V dL Yim, GqY CdL Yim GuT u RuUV
Tj AUm. J U iu J KWjp Clj RVh, V
Cj jd Li RdmT CVkWjp Ck YYmT
dLeLu Ym. \, U i] u Yj, Clj RVp
NnVlThP KWm, UV Jj Es[R Gu TodLm. ClT UV P
VRL Clu, ] PUL jd Li RVp CVkWjs
KPPm. B]p, UV P TVRL CkRp,
] Nt R[oYL jd Ls[m.
u JqY KWjRm YqY pL[p
CljRVp RdLm. RdmT V A[
pL[ ]Lp h YhPm.
LR U iL[ JqY \m RjR
Yj, KWeL[ NTodLm. NV] A[Lp
RdLlThs[R, A[Ls LR UL[ Jj
TWUdLlThs[R G] NTodLm. J KWm L [UL
CkRp Tu ], AkR KWm LR U A[]
JjdmT AUm YW CdLm. J NUVm, KWm
75

TPm 6.4.

Uj CkRX ApX RL CkRX, RVpL[ R[oYd

RYlThPp RVX Yhh, LR UV Jj CdU AUV NnV
Yim. TPm 6.4.
6.5. CQlj RVp
CWi Uj iL[ CVkWjp Rdm u
CQlTR CQlj RVp G]lTm. CQdLlTP
YiV Uj iL[ Ju\L NV] \p
Yj iVp CQdLlT\. \ LL[p
F Li V Khj RVpLs u \jt
Ht\ X TVuTj RdLlT\. CkR RVp
ULs EVL VUp CdLm, SYUp
CdLm ER\. CkR CQlj RVp CVkWjp
RdLd LtdLi Cdm BWmTLX RVp
LXOoLd XTUL RlTRt ERVL Cdm.
(TPm 6.5).

TPm 6.5

6.6. FVp CZVhPp (Pin Basting)

iL[ TVuTj EV] Lu KWeL[
Su\L TjRXm. EV] u Rdm KWeLp
(RlTRt u) iL[ TVuTjR Yim.
Cm\d u]p CZVhPp (A) FVp CZVhPp
Gu TVo. iL[ dYRt Ht\YLp TVuTjR
Yim. Rdm T RVp T F iLu
Up TPUp RdL Yim. G]Y, iL[ Rdm
TPm 6.6
Lht 1 N.. Rs TjR Yim. Cm\ XTULm,
Rdm SWjR fNlTjYRLm Es[. CkR \ XN] Ldm,
kR L]U] Tih Ldm Ht\RpX. CkR uTvet WjVLUL
RVdLlThP TpuLs TVuTjRlT\. (TPm 6.6).
6.7. RVp TVp CZVhPp (Machine basting)
RVp Tu ERVp TPlTm CZVhPp
RVu A[ / [jR NNnV LV UX TjR
Yim. CRu Xm RVp TRL m. ARY J
AeXjt 6 Rp 8 RVpLs Cdm. EV] RVp
ThP \ CjRVX GRL dLXm. CqYL
CZVhPp Th YL Ld ETVLlTjRXm.
YpYh, Nhu Tu\ Ld Ht\ CZVhPXL C
AUm. RVp LtTd CkR CZVhPp Lm TVuTm.
(TPm 6.7)

76

TPm 6.7

6.8. LVp CZVhPp (A) Jh RVp

EPu Lj T, _ Y[ Utm Y[Y] KWeLs
Tu\ CPeLd LVp CZVhPp LU
ETVLU\. NUU] CZVhPp, NUUt\ CZVhPp
Tu\ RVpL[ ETVLlTjm Y[Y] CPeL[
RdLXm. EVL RdL YiUu\p Lh RVX
TVuTjRXm. (TPm. 6.8).

TPm 6.8

6.9. vl Tve
BRW RVp EPu Y[Y] KWeL[m, dLL
Yh Rdm KWeL[ ETjRm TVuT\. Rdm
Lhtm RlTRt PlThs[ CPjtm Sp
RdLlTY BRW RVp G]lTm.
RVp TZTYoLd Cm\p RlT Lm
ER\. \ RVp Tp RlTRu Xm EV]
RVX T\Xm.

TPm 6.9

Rp CjRVX SWL RdL TZLm, \ Y[Lp

RdL Yim. C Lj TLm, RsTLm, _ Y[ BV TL[ CQdL
ER\ Utm v Tu\ CPjR CQdL Tm ER\.
BRW RVX Y \ Xp RdL Yim. AlT Ru RVp
Tp RjR u XTUL dL ERm.
W
CkR RXlp LdLlThs[Y A]Ydm, V Tt AYRt
ERm. V TolT Utm RYRu Xm AV m. G]Y u
RYV k RokRdL ERm. u N u AlTPVL Es[.
BP YYUlt u NV ARp CuVUVRRL Es[. BP
YYUlT[o UhUpX A]Ym k Lsm YiQm AUks[.
u uTdLm Utm uTdLjR Tt AV ER\. CRu Xm RYVt\
ZlTjR RodLXm.
YhPlThP U iL[ Ju\L CQj Rj JeL] \p
BPV EYdL AlTPj RVpLs ERVL Cdu\]. Um BPL[
EYjt Ht\Y TjRU] BPVL AUdLm EQVL Es[].

77

]dLs
I. NV] PV RokRdLm

1.

________ Ls RYRt UuUVL Cdm.

A. Th

2.

B. p

4.

6.

B. Tj

C. YpYh

D. p

Lp \ NnVlThP KWeLs ________ G] \lTu\]

A. WlTlThP ZLs

B. d Lh Z

C. NpYhw

D. So Lh Z

SoL Utm ddL ZLs p NeLQjp AUYR

________ G] AZdLlT\.
A. Wu

5.

D. u]lThPY

________ Ls LNemT HtTm UlLm, dLeLm Reu\].

A. u]lThPY

3.

C. Tj

B. Z C. B@lWu

D. BuWu

ULs ________ p YhPlTm T BPu AUl NVL Cdm.

A. SoLh Wu

B. d Lh Wu

C. dji Wu

D. Nu Lhd TdLjp

________ UeLXL Rt\Udm

A. SnVlThP Lu NV] TdLm
B. AfPlThP Lu uTdLm
C. NpYhw T
D. u]lThP Lu RY\] TdLm

II. LhP CPeL[ WlL

1.

Clj RVpLs NRWQUL ________ LLp NnVlTu\].

2.

Y[ LLu EYm ________ Bp XVL YdLlT\.

3.

RVp CVkWjp RdmT ULs YdY ________ p

RodLlT\.

4.

________ GuT p YNVL JeL] \p RdLlTYRm.

5.

________ GuT C Uj iL[ CVkWjp Rdmu CQlT

Bm.

6.

________ TVuTj EV] L[ CVkWjp Rdm

7.

________ d RVp CVkWm TVuT\.

8.

EVL RdL YiUp ________ WkRW TVuTjRXm.

9.

RVp TZTYoLd ________ ER\.

78

10. ________ , ________ BV RVpLs Y[Y] CPeLp RdLlT\.

11.

Lu ULs BnYLeLp TNR]d EhTjRlTh ________

Utm ________ LiPVlT\.

12. ________ Lp Up GkR SZVp Rum.

13. p Ls ________ [Y HtTjm.
14. ________ Lp f ApX Z AUl LQlTm.
15. ________ SLL BPLp dV Te Yd\.
III. 5 UlTi ]dLs

1.

Wu YWV.

2.

B@l Wu [d

3.

L[ Toj R EQof Xm LiPV u lL[ GL.

4.

AfPlThP Lp NV] T RY\] TV GqY Ak Ls[

m GuTR GL.

5.

Bu Wu Y.

6.

NpYhw Gu\p Gu]?

7.

Tvv ApX CQl RVp lTL.

8.

vl Tve [dL.

9.

u Tve [d.

10. u Tve Gu\p Gu]?

IV 10 UlTi ]dLs

1.

u N ApX Wu Utm YLL[ Y.

2.

u NV] T Utm uT LiPm \V GL.

3.

Clj RVp Tt Yj GL.

TpLs
1. Th

2. Tj

3. NpYhw

4. BuWu

5. SW] Wu

6. AfPlThP u RY\] TdLm

LhP CPm
1. LjlT

2. Clj RVp 3. vl Tve

5. CQlj RVp 6. TpuLs

8. LhjRVp

9. vl Tve

4. Clj RVp

7. RVp TVp CZVhPd

10. NUU], NUUt\ CZVhPp

11. EZdm \u, NY

12. LmT

13. NnY] [Y

14. Tp, YpYh

79

15. Wu

7. p UV YjRp, jRp, YhRp

uW
BP YYUl Utm EYdRp UL[ Lp jRp, lT
Utm YhY BV um dV AeLm Ydm AmNeL[m. TlTX
ApX AhPX RVo NnVlTh UL[ Lu Up j
YhYRtm, RVp NnYRtm ERm AmNUm. UL[l Tp Lp
j iL[L Yh RlTRt lT L dV AmNUm. UtV
um BPL[ EYdYRtV UmThP AmNUm. BPL[
YYUlTRtm EYdYRtm TVYlT, lT Utm YhY GuTR]
EoS Gu\ \Xm.
7.1. V jRp
dLpXR Lp UL[ Yj TV YlTR TVYjRp
Gu \Xm. U Ts[m CpXR U_p Rp L[ TV YdL
YQm. TlTo ApX AhPX] UL[ u ARu Up YdL YQm.
L[ lTp X dV LY]jp Ls[ YiV NVpTLs u YU.

L[ TU]lTjR Yim.
TV, L]j RuUV], UTs[pXR U_V ETVdL Yim.
ULp A]j YWeLm Es[R G] NTodLm.
RWU] YWTPjR RVdLm.
UV NV] p Np YdLm.
TV UL[ Lu KWeLp YdLm.
JW UV] UL[ JW Tp Noj YdLm.
kRYW JqY UL[m L ALUp Yj L[
fNlTjRm.

ULu YWeLs
Uu

TVo.
iLu GidL
Ul TLjR RYL lP Yim.
p NV L Th lhdL Yim.
ShfNv lP Yim.
NhP TLs, TjRu YWm, TjRu Utm CRW TLeLu CPjR
oUdLm.
UlLs X, \Y NnY]
uTdLm, uTdLm UVlTV dL Yim.
Rdm LLs
Ul, l TLeLs RYL lhdL Yim.
80

BODICE
BACK

BODICE
FRONT
C
3

C
F

(CUT 1)

SLEEVE
(CUT 2)

(CUT 2)

TPm 7.1.
7.1.1. UV lp TjRp
Ls RXV dLlThkRXV JqY LdLt\t Tp
p S]j em RuUV Ak u EXWYj L[ dLeLu
TU]Ud UL[ u dL YiU. L[ jRU] TV
U_u dL Yim. U_u A[ dLlTm Lu A[Y
Lhm TVRL CdL YQV AYVm. ClT NnYRp d[ Juu
Up JuTY Utm RY\L lTRm RodL m.
7.1.2. TXR lu YWTPeLs
BPLu Rm, ULu iLs Utm Lu ALXjR Tj
lhP U YWTPeLs AUm. [Ydp UjV Ul, AW [Ydp
UjV Ul, d UjV Ul, AW d UjV Ul, LXl Ul Utm
\kR l Tu\ TXR YWTPeL[ EYdLXm. CY 11m Yl 11m
TPjp YdLlThP]. G]Y CkR Tp TXYL L[ GqY LV[
Yim GuTRm. (G.L. u]XP, YpYh, Tp Tu\Y). TV N]Ls,
LLs, ih NuLs Tu\Y Tt Ak LsYm.
7.1.3. \l Lu UV jRp:
u]p Ls Utm Th Lu UV dmT AL LY]m
LhP Yim. TpY LjL[m LY]jp Gjd Li UV j
dmT Vm, SWjRm fNlTjR m. C TpY YLV]
BPL[ YYUdL ERm.
7.1.3.1. u]XPLs

YYUlp Jt\ pLs Ld Tu\ Yp CdLlTh AY

u]pL[L CQdLlTu\]. u]pLs Jt\ Utm CWhP pL[ LiP
AjRU] L[] (_o, WLh Utm l Tu TXR L[ EYdL
m. TYL BPLu RVlt AjRU] Ls (_o) Ru
TmTm TVuTjRlT\.
81

_o L[ RVjRp jRp, jRp Utm YhRu TpY

XLs

L[ SWdL L[ CdLY, dLY NnYR RodLm.

Lu UdLlThP KWeL[ SWL Yj NUR[jX ApX U_u

R dL Yim.

NpYhw KWjR UlTRt ALXU] NeLQ So; LPL YhPm.

Ls YYl RuUV]RLY, Ydm RuU LiPRLY CkRp

NnjRsL[V ApX _L RsL[V p ip j
U_u NNUUL dLXm.

UL[ GlTm Lu UtlTdLjp (LhPlTdLjp) YlT

SpX. C Lp dLm ZUm hPlTPUp CdLm ERm.

RL RVp TZYoLs V i]p UL[ Lp j

dLm.

ULu KWjR PnXo NddLh / Yl ApX X \ TuXX

dLXm.

_o Lp BPLs RdL \kR lRu \kR.

Y[Y] KWeL[ ApX dj i RdmT LY]m RY.

7.1.3.2. Th, WVu, Xv Ls

Th, WVu, Xv Ls Lm URLm, UuUV]RLm, Ydm

RuU \kRRLm Cdm. APV[ lLs Utm YhRu T
LY]m NjR YiV AYVm.
RVjRp, jRp, APV[ lLs, Utm YhRp uTt\ YiV
TLs

Ld\Y] em RuU LilTRp CYt\ YhYRt u

dL AYVpX.

L[

SoTjR AR U_u j d YhPjp CdLm.

L[

UTs[pXR NUR[jp dLm. EeL[ NL WpL[ SLoj

v Tu\Yt\ dLm. CR NnV jRU] RWV P ETVdLXm.
dLlThP CPU] u A[YP TVRL CdL YiV
AYVm.

SYUp CdL u u\jp NnjR[V ApX ThPo

R[V i j UL[ Ydm T SYR RodLXm.

UL[ GlTm Lu u TdLjp (SpX TdLm) YdL Yim.

Lu u TdLjR TolTm RmTm EQWXm. Lu uTdLm
uTdLjRP WLNULm UuUV]RLm Cdm.
82

UL[ UpV iL[ Li CWiP ApX u CPjp

jRm. UL[ GlTm Lu [YdpRu jR Yim GuTR
LY]jp Yjd Ls[ Yim. iL[ jmT Lu p
CZLs TdLR YiQm jR Yim.

CQdLlThP U iL[ Pu Noj YhPm ApX UL[

PXo \dLhVp APV[ h YhPm.

Y[Y] KWeLp Cl RVPm. YhPlThP L[ RVt

NnVlTm RQm YW h YdLm.

RL TZYod \kR l \Ru A]j YL Ldm \kR.

AW UjV UlTm ETVdLXm.

7.1.3.3. YpYh, Nhu & Tp Ls:

CkR YL Lp Es[ lLs Lu AZL UmTjm \u

LiP.
U RVjRp, jRp, jRp, YhRp TVuTm TLs

LPp YeLlThP L[ h ht Gjf NpXm. L[

YhY YW hV YjdL Yim. C Tp NnYR]p Lp
dLjR EYdL.

Lp dLm CkRp, J TjWjp YiW Ft V J

Lmp j Yj B TPf Nn EeL[ WpL[ dLju
RP dLjR dLXm.

UYL V Cj L[ So NnVXm.

u uTdLjR (SpX TdLm) U_p TU NnV Yim.

UL[ Lp Yj PXo \dLhVp APV[ HtTjRm.

BP Yp]oLs ULp APV[ HtTjRUp Ju\ ApX CWi

iL[ j L[ YhYoLs.

CZ NV TWUdL Yis[Rp CqYLV] Ld \kR T

\Ru \kR.

7.1.4. u NuL[ Tj UL[ YjRp

s[ NuLs BP ATYoLd AZLL Nod\. G]Y, p
UL[ lu T Lm LY]UL Tj CdL Yim. NuLu
TY] YLLm, ARuUp UL[ Yj dm \Lm Z
LdLlThs[].
7.1.4.1. RY] NuLs

TV U@lLs GpXYLV] BPLdm TVuTjRXm. AY JeLt\

\p AUdLlTm T \lTL AUm. p \V ApX SdLU]
83

YWTPeLs CkRp ApX JeLt\YVL CkRp U iL[ SdLUL

Yj Yh, RdL Yim. CY TolTRt Su\L Cdm. (TPm 7.2).
p TV U@lLs lhP ApX NUU] CPYp Clu,
TV YYeLs BPu u\m AUU U iL[ Yj YhP
Yim. NuLs ApX YYeLu Up Yh]p Rdm CPm Su\L
TkR. TPm (7.3).

TV UlLs

RY\] YhRp

TPm 7.2

NV] YhRp

TPm 7.3

p UL[ Yj jRp p Es[ YYeL[ Tjm

YT\. G]Y BP YYUlT[oLs u NuL[ Tj LY]UL
YhP Yim.
7.1.4.2. J TdL Nu Es[ Ls

CqYLV] Ls ih NnVlThPYVL ApX SnRYVL

CdLXm. YWTPeLs JW Np Npm (G.L.) LjR] UXoLs Lp
Es[Tp p J KWjp BWmj AjR KWm YW AUU Cdm
ApX VUhd YWTPeLs ih NnVlThdm. (TPm 7.4).
CqYLV] V dm Tm, U iL[ Tj Yhm
Tm, CQl T NVL CdL LY]UL TodL Yim. (G.L). [v
ApX NhP YhmT U iLu YX Utm CPTdLju NuLs
JW Np CdU Toj YhPm. (TPm 7.5).

V Nu

RY

84

TPm 7.4

J Y Nu

Tv Tp J Y Nu

vLohp JY Nu

TPm 7.5
7.1.4.3. LLs Utm [Ls

LLs SoLh, d Lh NLp p Cdm. CqYLV]

LLs Nej LLs Utm d Yh LLs Gu\ZdLlTm (TPm
7.6.) LLs NhPpRu ALUL LQlTm. CYt\ d Lhm, sYh
Lhm Yh RdLXm. CRu Xm d SdL] YYjR EYdLXm.
LXo Utm L U iL[ d Np Yh RlTRu Xm
BP] Um AZLdLXm. (TPm 7.7).
[hv (LhPeLs) GuT] SnVlThP ApX ih NnVlThP LLs
sYdm dLLm LhPeL[L AUkdm. (TPm 7.8).

TPm 7.6

TPm 7.7

TPm 7.8

LLs Utm LhPeLm, NUULY ApX NUUt\RLY CdLXm.

LLu A[m ThPu A[m JW U Cdm. u RuUV
Tjm, \jR Tjm YT\ (TPm 7.9). NUUt\ LLp, LLm,
ThPm YqY\] A[p Cdm. B]p \m Utm CPY JW UVL
Cdm. (TPm 7.10).

85

TPm 7.9

TPm 7.10

7.1.4.4. ToPo NuLs

CqYLV] NuLs p J KWjp Uhm Cdm. CY

SnRYVLY ApX ih NnVlThPRLY CdLXm. CY u
am Xu, L KWm, TYPu KWeLp AUkdm. Y[Y] KWeLs
Es[ BPLd C TVuTjRlTYpX. (G.L). @[o vLoh, u
u\m Utm u\m JW U CdU U iL[ Yj YhPm.
(TPm 7.11).
\kR lp AW[Ydp ApX [Ydp UjV Ul l
CjLd ELkRY.

Y[k Npm LLs

UhdLL YhPlThP U

AlvhWdh NuLs

Uhd ApX YhPlThP U

TPm 7.11.

7.1.5. dL] p UL[ YjRp

dL] p UL[ YjRp GuT UV u Yj dL]UL

YhYRVm. V QdLUp dL]UL YhRX \kRRm.

86

LhTLs

JqY im NV] CPjR RokRlTRt u

APV[ Ls HtTjYR ApX L[
YhPY P.

JqY iL[m X RokRjR CPeLp

GPs[ T[ Yj Tjl TodLXm.

TPm 7.12.
LlTV iLu UL[ Lu Go]p
YdL Yim. iLu UL[ u UVlTp YdL
Yim.

kRYW JqY UL[m L SdLUL YdLm. AqY

NnmT Lu fNlTjRlThP TL[ ET AXeLW BPL[
RlTRt YNVL Cdm.

kRYW ShNvL[ Yl\jp YhPm. Tt\d\ CdmT

Es\jp YhPXm.

PqPne hT\V Uu lt uTt\m. CkR \ JW

UV] YYm LiP UL[ Ju Noj YlTRm. CR]p
L[ fNlTjRXm. LXo UV Ads T Lhp YdLXm.
(TPm 7.12)

TPm 7.13. iLs

UL[ YhYRt TjRR T iL[ CQj

YhPYim. UL[ NUu NnYRt Uu C \jm iL[
CQj YhYRu Xm ToYd AZ Nodm. ERWQm TYP
r] am Lu A[YP TVRL CkRp, UL[ Sp
Yj C KWeLm i L[ CQj Yh RdLXm. (TPm 7.13).
87

7.2. jRp
jRp GuT lT Up Ck d UtRXm. Uu LLs
Utm \ YWeL[] PohLs BVYt\ Utm NVpT Bm.
jRu T LYdLlTP YiV

Yl, X TupLs, PnXo, Nd Lh, Tup Utm LoTu Rs BVY

TVuTj jRp NnVlT\.

BPd TU] Es[R G] LYdLm

GpX lL[m jRhPR GuTR LYdLm.

p GpX ULdm TU] CPm Es[R GuTR NTodLm.

NV] jRp \V RokRdLm. ERWQm: Yhm LL[ LiP

ULd PXo \dLhV Uhm TVuTjRm. RVp LL[
lTRt, BWmT LX TVYo TuXm, LoTu TlTWm
TVuTjRm.

Xh T]Y dL TVuTjR YiPm. AlT TVuTj]p ULp

L\ HtTjm.

7.2.1. Yl Utm X TupLs

UL[ lTRt TmTm AW Ll Utm AW X TupL[
TVuTjRlT\. BPLu u TdL UL[ lTRt Yl Tum
uTdL UL[ lTRt X Tum TVuTjRlT\. UL[ u
j ARu KWeLs dLlT\. CRu L NRWQ GV \Vm.
B]p TupL[ Li RVtLLs Utm PohL[ dL V TPm
7.1.4.
RED

BLUE

TPm 7.14
7.2.2. PnXo \dLh
CRu Xm Lm NRWQULm, GRLm lT Up
Ck d Utm \V Gp LPdLXm. PnXo
\dLh GuT J dLQ YYjp Cdm U Tu\
T[p B]. C Ys[, Xm, Yl Utm UgNs \m
LiPRL Cdm. Yl Ut\m X \ \dLhLs Yo \
TPm 7.15
Ldm, Ys[ Utm UgNs \dLhLs APo\ Lp
dLm TVuTm. UL[ Lu Yj ARu
Yl\ LL[ YWV PnXo \dLh TVuT\. B]p CRu Xm
ULu iV lL[m, RVt LL[m dL V. TPm 7.15.
88

7.2.3. Tup Utm LoTu TlTo (UjRs)

Lm RuUdL CkR \p LoTu TlTW (UjRs) Udm,
dm Sp Yj Uu YdLL[m Utm Ut\ lL[m
Tuu ERPu Gp YWkP m. CkR \p RVt LLs,
Poh BVYt\ p dL m.
7.2.4. Uoe NdLWm Utm BP RVlTYu LoTu LRm
BP RVl Rp Yo Uoe NdLWjRm, LoTu
LRjRm TVuTjYo. LoTu LRm UgNs, Yl Utm
Ys[ \eLp Pdm. CY Gp AV. LU\
Lp Ys[ LoTu LRjR TVuTjRXm. Yl
Utm UgNs \ LoTu LRjR Ys[ \ Lp
TVuTjRXm. LoToPL dm NdLWjR TVuTjm
T CkR We To AYVm. CkR To EVL Cdm.
RfNu Xm NnR ApX LPkR CqYLV]
ToP T\Xm. CkR Tou J\jp A[Ls Cdm. TPm 7.16.
CRu Xm ToP V SWL TjRXm. RdL
TZTYoLs U iL[ Top F Xm CQjRu lT
GRL Cdm. dm NdLWm 6 AeX [jp u\m NdLWm, u\jp 1
N. SLm NdLWm, Ll UWjRp ApX [vdLp RVdLlThdm.
NdLWju TdLm oUVL YYUj RVdLlThs[.
dm Tou Up V Yj, LoTu LRjR Uj iLdm
dm CPp Yj dm NdLWju Xm Yhm L Utm Rdm
LL[ APV[m j V YhPXm. (TPm 7.16).
dm NdLWjR ETVLlTjm Y\Ls

dm NdLWjR NV] CQl KWeLp Yj Aj YWYRp

APV[m NVL m.

LoTu LRm TRpXVu\p Rp U iu rTV Uhm

YWkh, LhP Wu ERVp UV AjdLi LoTu
LRjR YV GdLm.

SoLL[ A[Lu ERVp dm NdLWjR TVuTj YWVXm.

ShfNv 1 N. [U] Yh NnYRu Xm YWVXm.

7.2.5. RVpLWo CZVhPp ApX Pe

CZVhPp p lTRt ER\. CY Th Utm UuUV]
Ld TjRU]RL AUm. RVp TZTYoLd C Tm ER\.
C WkRWU] C\m RYL Rm. C TV RVXLY ApX
Jhj RVXLY NnVXm. (G.L). Yl \ d Wv, UgNs, BWg, FR,
LU, Ys[ \ X TVuTjRXm. p p RYL RV Yim
(TPm. 7.17).
89

RVpLWo Pde NnmT rYY]Yt\ U]p

Ls[ Yim.
V

XV] TWlX TPm

iL[ NToj NV] \p QLRY

Yj TjRm.

AjRU] \ CWhP X Fp Loj Yjd

Ls[m.

UV

Pu Noj Jhj RVPm.

C RVdPV [U] LdLs Tp CdL p Pm.

UL[m Pde NnVm.

Pde

kRPu RVPV ] LjRdLm.

UL[

RVPlThP CPeLp YhPlThP ] LY]UL

hPm.

CkR

UYL GdLm.
TPm 7.17.

pLs shP LTX V YhP TVuTm.

\kR l Utm CQkR l Li RVpLWu PdLs dLm.

7.3. YhRp
J V A[Y], TjRU] iL[L Yh CQj, Rj BPVL
EYdm \V YhRp G]lT\. V YhYRt LjRdLp
oUV]RL CdL Yim (TPm 7.18).
YhYp uTt\ YiV dVU] TLs
Wu

SYUp CdL V U_ JeLL TWlTm.

CPLVp Aj jd Li YX L]p YhP Yim.

TuXp

YWVlThP iP LL[ TVuTj LjRu [jRm

TVuTj V YhP Yim.

UNu
V

V Yj, UNV t Yk YhP Yim.

Sm TdLUL Cj YhmT CZN Um.

TPm 7.18. YhRp

90

YWkR
Yhm

Lhu NVL YhP Yim.

CPjRd dm Yh (ShNv) RYlTm CPeLp YhPm.

A]j

ULm YhPlTm YW \ UL[ GdL YiPm

RYVt\

iL[ Al\lTj, Ut\ \ iL[ t YdLm.

7.3.1. \lj RuU YnkR L[ Yhm T LYdL YiV

lLs
1. ZLs UX Rum (G.L). LoWn, YpYhu, YhPlThP Z
Up Sd Cdm. ALX p CZ rSd
(Short nap)
ClT (RjYm Tt\)
YhPlThP Z rSd \ljRuU YnkR
2. iP Z (long nap)
L[ YhmT LYdL YiV lLs
J Af Nu J Np NnVlTm T,
3. JTdL Nu
BPu JqY im AR Np YhPlTP
Yim.
4. AW Z N Nu
EPp Z Np Nt ALu AfdLs
(Off grain design)
ClT. (CTu\ EPLs YeRX RodLm).
5. LhPeLs Utm LLs
TkRp AYVm. LhPeLs \kR Nu 3/4
ApX \Y] AeXjp \ TtdL
Yim.
u UuUV] ApX u RY\] TdLjR
6. Tp
Ju\L YdLm.
7. NpYhw
BPd V Yhm u NpYhw TV
Toj YhY AYVm. CQl Tp
\lTVL TVuTjR u\ CPeLp
TVuTjRm. X Lp AL APojVL
LQlTm. J X Lp LjRj PlTh
Cdm
8. UR]p EYdLlThP UR]p EYdLlThP CZL[p NnVlThP
Lp UL[ LY]UL RVdL Yim.
CZLs
H]p RVtLWu RjR BP Tp Ru\.
KWeLs Utm CQlLs WL CdL YnlLs
\.
9. WljRuU LiP
(E.m). ThPThP, Lp UpPh LLs
Ls
Lidm. (E.m). RVdLlThP LlT,
UL[ LY]UL Ro NnVm.
10. LoWn
eL. B]p L[ EXojm CVkWjRp
em.
11. TV AfdLs
u Z NPu JulTLR
AfdLPu V L[ YeLdP.
AfdLu Np YhPm. (E.m) dLs
Uh@lLs UpSd CdL Yim.
91

W
V jRp, jRp Utm YhRp CY um BP EYdYp
L dV Te Ydu\]. CY LY]UL NnVlThPp AZL] BPVL
AUj, LfRULm, dL]ULm BPL[j RdL m.

]dLs
I.

NV] PV RokRdLm

1.

J TdLh Lp CkYm B ________ Lp dLeL[ ALtm.

A. YpYh

2.

3.

6.

B. PqPe

C. UjV uT Ul

D. UL[ jRp

YhmT U_k d YhPdP. H]p A ________

RY\L LVm [Y HtTjm
C. Wu

D. PohLs

B. u]XP

C. pSN

D. Th

ToPo LiP Ls ________ BPL[ Nu NnV TVuTYpX.

A. @l[o TYPLs

B. _TX

C. A Xu lWdLs

D. NohLs

________ p Z CjR, jR V SWL BdL V.

B. u]lThP

C. Th

D. Xv

GoU\ \ ] ________d TVuTjR Yim.

A. SWdRp

8.

B. U

RVpLWo PdLs ________ Ld \kR.

A. YpYh
7.

D. Th

A. e

A. Tj
5.

C. Tj

JjR UL[ YjRd ________ Gu TVo

A. Nu
4.

B. u]XP

B. jRp

C. RVtLWu PdeD. djRVp

ToPo Nu ________d \lT]RL TVuTm.

A. EPtT U Ujp

B. Lj Y[

C. CllT

D. LlT am Utm EPtT ULs

II. LhP CPjR WlL

1.

________ UV YRt XdL TVuT\.

2.

UgNs Utm Ys[ YiQ RVpLWu NddLhLs ________ Lp

Pl TVuT\.
92

3.

lp NV] ________p UL[ YdL Yim.

4.

U iLu GpX Lhp ________ TP Yim.

5.

\kR l Utm Nol l BVYtt ________Tm ER\.

6.

u]XP YLLs YYlTL CkRp ARPu ________ CQj

dL Yim.

7.

Th, WVu Tu\ Ld ________ l TjRU].

8.

JW U YYm LiP UL[ AjRj YlTRt ________ Gu

TVo.

9.

TV KWeLs LiP U iL[ u ________YdL Yim.

10. LLs ________p ALm LQlT\.

11.

RVp ________ BWmTLX LXOoLs TVuTjm dm Ts G?

III. 2 UlTi ]dLs

1.

YWTPeLs Tt Y.

2.

Ll Utm X TupLs Yp Ydm Te V?

3.

RVpLWu Ndd LhLu YiQeL[l ThVL.

4.

UL[ EYdL LoTu LRju dVjYm V?

5.

V jRp Gu\p Gu]?

6.

jRp [dL.

7.

jRd TVuTm TpY ThL[ ThVL.

8.

LoTu LRju TVuL[ GL.

9.

YhRp [d.

10. ShNv Gu\p Gu]?

11.

am UlLs Tt G.

12. RVpLWu NddLh Gu\p Gu]?

13. _o Gu\p Gu]?
IV. 5 UlTi ]dLs
1.

Tup, LoTu LRm TVuTj m \V Y.

2.

V YhmT uTt\ YiV TL[ ThVL.

3.

Yl, X Tup Utm LoTu LRm Tt [d.

93

4.

U YWeL[ YWk [d.

5.

jRu T uTt\ YiV lLs VY?

6.

YhRp Es[ dV TLs GY?

7.

jRu T U]p Ls[ YiV lLs GY?

8.

TV NuLs Tt lTL.

V. 10 UlTi ]dLs
1.

RVpLWo Ndh TVuTj, jRp Tt [d.

2.

Lp LLs, LhPeLs Tt RkR TPeL[d Li [dL.

3.

ToPo Nu UV p j [dL.

4.

RVtLWu PdL[d Li GqY dLXm.?

5.

dL]UL ] TVuTjR UL[ TVuTjR YWTPm Xm [d.

6.

m NdLWm TVuTh] ThVL.

7.

U YWeL[ YWk [dLm.

94

8. U YWTPeLp jRp
uW
TYL ULs lhP (NWN) T A[YLp RVdLlTu\]/
YYUdLlTu\]. Xu EPXUlu A[Ls NWN A[t Ht\RL
AUm. B]p X TiLu EPXUlt Ht\Y U YWTPeLs / U
iLp jRm NnY Lm AYVU\. ] YhYRt u
U iLp Ut\m NnYRp NV] A[] T\Xm.
U iLp jRm NnmT ARu Y LL[ Ut\Up ClTRu
Xm UL[ TLdLXm. Up Yh ApX Ul ApX l
Tu\Ytu ERVp jRlThP WkRW U iL[ UTm
TVuTjRXm.
8.1. U iL[ jYRu dVjYm
V YhYRt uU iLp jReL[ NnYRp,
QYR RdLXm. U LRjp RYV] jReLs NnYRp SWm,
QRm RodLlT\.
Up jYRu Xm JYu NV] A[Ym, BPu
TjRjRm T\ m. TX BPLd LfRU] A[p U
RVdLlTh TLdLlThPp JqY \m U A[] GdmT
CdL.
8.2. jRlThP U iu T A[YLs
1. u N TLdLlTm
2. U iLs NNUULm, So Rjm Cdm.
3. RYV] CPjp Uhm Ut\eLs jReLs NnVlTm.
4. BP YYUlT[u LLs TLdLlTm.
8.3. AlTP LsLLs
1.

Rp LsL : TV U ip NnVlThP jReLd RkRtTp

Ut\Ytm NnV Yim.

2. CWiPm LsL : U iP TTjYR, i TlTW

CQlTRu Xm NnVlT\.
3. u\m LsL : jRlThP U ip EiUV] U iu
TiLs CdL Yim.
4. SuLm LsL : jRlThP U ip RYL[ EiUV] U
iu TiLs U\Up jR Yim.
5. IkRm LsL : Ut\lThP U i RhPVL, EiUV] iTp
CdL Yim.
95

8.4. TjR WfN]Ld UL[ jRp

TYL BPp EVWm Utm ALXm Ru dV WfN]VL Es[.
CR NNnYRu Xm J BP TVuTm LXjR
ALlTjRXm.
8.4.1. NhPu ([v) [jR ALdL
U iu Ynvh Xu Tdm AuPo Bomdm
CPV u, u Tp J L YWVm. AkR LhP
Yh RV GdLm. YhPlThP CPjtm RYV]
A[ TlTo iP iu ERVp C
iL[m CQdLm. KWjp Cdm ALTV]
ApX RYpXR TlTW Yh GdLm. r KWjp
[UdLd P (TPm 8.1.).
TPm 8.1. l[^
[UdRp

8.4.2. [v [jR \dL

UX \lThPY U ip L YWVm. GqY[ \dL YiU

AkR A[t, HtL]Y TPlThP Lht CQVL L TPm. U
iP Uj C LLs CQU i Xm CQdLm. (TPm 8.2.)

TPm 8.2. l[p [m \jRp

8.4.3. vLohu [jR ALdL
vLohu u, U ip l Xud r d L YWVm.
YWVlThP Lhp Yh, U iP RYV] A[t j YdLm.
j YdLlThP U it CPp RYV] A[ TlTW Yj
iu Xm CQdLm. u N U\Up Tojd LsY AYVm
Bm.
CR Tp vLohu u Um jRjR Nn RdL Yim. [o
vLohu [jR ALdL, am Xp RYV] A[ [jR CQdL
Yim. AlTRu vLohu A[ ApX Rm NVL AUm.
96

r KWjp AL ALXm RYlThPp amXp RYlTm [m

NodLXm. ReLmT JeLL Rem. H]p hPlThP [jt
HtT NR Ut\m NnVlThs[. (TPm 8.3.).

TPm 8.3. vLohP [UdRp

8.4.4. vLohu [jR \dL

vLoh u U ip l Xt r C LLs JudLu CQVL
Utm u Ud dLL RYV] A[ CPYh YWV Yim.
C LLm CQU U iP Uj CQdL Yim.
CR Tp vLohu u UV NnV Yim. [o vLou [jR
\dL ARu am Xp Es[ ALlTV] A[Y Yh GdLm. B]p
CqY NnYR]p vLohu ALXm \m. G]Y, vLohu ALXm \VUp
CdL U ip l Xp Uj CQdLXm (TPm 8.4).

TPm 8.4. vLohP hPVdRp

8.4.5. L [jR ALdL

u SoLh Np RsThPp Ck h (Elbow) YW J L
YWVm. JYu RsThPk h YW Es[ A[Ym, hk
Ynvh YW Es[ A[Ym lTRu Xm RYV] [jR LiPVXm.

97

RYV] A[ TlTo iL[ CQdLm. u ALlTV] KWjR

YhPm. (TPm 8.5).

TPm 8.5. LV [UdRp

8.4.6. L [jR \dL
UX lhPY, L YWV Yim. u U it dLL
RYV] A[Y \j, Uj RVp TPm. u N SWL CdU
Tojd Ls[m. C LiLs Utm SW] dLLs, [UdLY,
\dLY hp jRm NnRp Xm NnVlTm. (TPm 8.6).

TPm 8.6. LlTV hPVdRp

8.4.7. Rs Tp jReLs
Bom ap X] Tj RsThPp ALXm dLlT\.
Bomap Xu, Bom ap RVXLm, EP LVt\RL CkRp A CQl
Xu (seam line) BLm LRlT\. Bom ap Xu, RsThP Utm LV
d\. C LV CXYL ANlTRt TolTRt AZLLm Cdm. LVt\
BPVL CkRp Bom ap Xu Um AZL h\.
98

TiLs ALXU] ApX LX] RsThPV LidLXm. U

ip jReL[ NnYRu Xm CYoL[ AZTj LhPXm. Rs
ALXjR LXdL oNn TjRU]RL NnVXm. Rs Tp
CQldLhP Yh ALXUd Ls[ m. (TPm 8.7).
EPXUl (RsThP) LiPYd Utm TV RsThP
LiPYd m j]p TU]RL Cdm. LlTV RsThP
LiPYoLd jYRu Xm NV] TjRjR BPp EYdLXm.
(TPm 8.7.).

TPm 8.7.
8.4.8.ALXU] RsThP
RsThPV ALXUdL rYm TL[ uTt\ Yim.
u U iu NpPo Xu (across back) Ujp uU iu dLL
1 L YWVm. Lhu T AiPo Bom CQm CPm YW YhPm.
TlTu Up YhV u U iP Yj RYV] A[ j
V UV YWVm.
V NpPo Xt Lj Tu KWjp Ck NpPo YW
L YWVm. CRTp u Um (NpPp) jRm Nn u CQdLm
(TPm 8.8.).

TPm 8.8.
99

8.4.9. LX] RsThP

uTp UjV Td CQV] Lh] RsThPp Ljl

Tk Tvh Xu r 1 AeXm YW L YWk L rlT
CQl CPm YW LhP CQdLm.

V LRju Up UV Yj jR u TV RkR ALXjp

Yh iVp jRm. Lj KWjk Rs KWm YW RsYWk
RsThP L YWL. u T Um Ut\m NnL. CQdm
Tp ALlTV] V YhPm.

TPm 8.9.
8.4.10. u\ Cll TV ALXUdRp
Ynvh Xp J Yh NnVm, NpPo m YVL ApXUp, Bom
ap ShNvd dLL YhPm. YhPlThP TV RYV] A[d
dLm. B]p YnvhXp dLYiPm. dLL YhPlThP KWm Ju\u
Ju\L Uk [Ydp YhPlThPp \j Lh Cld Lh
CQlT NVdm.
AlTP jReL[p [m, \kR [m, ALXm, Lp NVL Es[R G]
AV ULu Ti] AkdL Yim. (TPm 8.10).

TPm 8.10

100

8.5. U jRu TiLs

Up jRm NnmT LY]UL CdL Yim. jRlThP Up,
U iu RuU / Ti U\Up CdL Yim. Ut\lThP UV EiU
UPu Jlh TodL Yim.
8.5.1. [m jRlThP Uu TiLs

UV CWi TL[L Yh Rd, KWeLs JW WL Ju\u Ju

UdLlTP Yim.

UL[ C TL[L Yh, [Ud, JhPUp Rj, Yj NeLQjp

[Ydp p Np YhP Yim.

KWm [UdLlThP, \dLlThP, RPoPV KWeLs jRlTh Uhf

BU NnVlT\.

Up EPp ANLs Es[ CQlLu CPV Ut\eLs NnVlT\.

NnY] ApX Y[kR KWeLp dLL PdLs ApX YhLs NnR

CPeLp LLs kkRp Ut LLs YWVm.

Ut\eLs NnmT BP AUdm YWeL[ CVu\YW RodLm.

8.5.2. ALXm jRlThP ULu TiLs

ULp Ut\m NnVlT\ ApX Ut\eL[ BPu KWeLp

NnVXm. Ce BPYYUlT[u LLs GUV]RLm,
SW]RLm Cdm.

UjRUL K CPeLp TV Ut\eLs NnYR P Ut\eL[ TX

CPeLp NnVXm.

ULp X TLp TlT HtTjm jReLs YhdLs Xm

\Yt\lTu\]. Rdm CQldL ApX KWjp RYd UhU
YhP Yim.

8.6. JeLt\ EPXUlLu Up jRm NnRp

YThP JeLt\ EPXUl EPV SToLd NVL TkRdVY
BPLs YYUj EYdRp UL[ jVUjRp dV Te
Yd\. TV ApX V UoTLeLs, RhPV] Uo, TV ApX
Cl, YhP Lj, NW RsThP, TjR AYtl T Utm Clf
tdLLs BV] TYL LQlTm JeLt\ EPXUl L[m.
TYL, AlTP ULp JeLt\ EPXUl Ld Tkm YLp
Ut\eLs NnVlTu\].
8.6.1. TV UoTL EYm
u\jp ClLh A[ NVL Ck TdLYhp SWVL UoTLju
rTdm CldLhdm CPY CpXp AqYjtL]
UoTLjt TV A[p Ll RYlTm. (TPm A)
101

jVUdm Lhp Yh, uTdL Cl A[Y TU] A[

[UdL Yim. Ce J i V iVp CQdLm. UoTL Pohp
uTdLm NodLlThP, [ A[Y Li Poh AUdLm (TPm B).
UoTLjtm ALU] LleL C Adm. H]p, u Utm TdLYhp
Gm jRm NnVlTPpX. CQlLs NUUL Cdm. TdLYh CQl
Poh UoTL Tuh Sd CdL Yim. PoP] UoTLjp Ck 1
AeXjtm \YL CdLd P.
Up ApX r Es[ UjR PohL[ RYlThPp NnVm. B]p
UoTL PohLs Up Sd AUlTp LY]UL CdLm. AlTRu C[UV]
Rt\m Cdm. (TPm 8.11).

TPm 8.11.
8.6.2. RhPV] UoTL EYm
YZdLUL C Tu\ EY \Thp, uTdL [m NVLm, uTdL
Cl L [ULm, uUjp ReVYm Cdm. (TPm A). LjdLhp
Ck Bomap YW Poh Gj, ALlTV] [jRd \dLm. (TPm
B). CR Ah_vhUiP Um NnVm (TPm. C)

TPm 8.12.
8.6.3. V UoTL EYm
CqYjt UoTL Lhp AL UlLs LdL Yim. (TPm A)
RsThP LXL CkRp Rp Ck ClL YW SWL J Pd
GdLm. ALlTV] UlL[ dLm. J Y[, RsThP NRWQUL
Ck, UoTL A[ RdLlTP YikRp, CldLhp Ck uTdL
102

Bomap Es[ Shf YW J PohP Uv]p AUdLm. Up

CkR jReL[ UtVUdLm. (TPm C) (TPm 8.13).

TPm 8.13.
8.6.4. V UoTLeLs Utm RhPV] Uo Es[ EYm
CkR EYjt LXYV] jVUl RYlT\. (TPm A) RhPV]
Uo LiP EYjt TVuTm PohP NNn Tj, uTdL Cl
Lhp ALlTV] [jR dL Yim. UoTLjt UV NNnV
\lThs[ lTL[ uTt\ Yim. (TPm B). CkR jReL[ Up
NnVm (TPm C) (TPm 8.14).

TPm 8.14.
8.6.5. UoTLm, RhPV] Uo LiP EYjt
UoTL EYm EiPV] Rs ThP EYd, UoT RhPVdm
(TPm A) UoTL EYjtL] lL[ uTt, uTV [Ud, Poh
GdLm. RhP Uo EYjt Ht\tTp UtVUdLm. (TPm B) UtVUdL
YiVYt\ Up AR sLp Ut\m (TPm C) (TPm 8. 15).

TPm 8.15.
103

8.6.6. YhP Lj
u Ujp, u Cld L Lm LXL Rm. (TPm A) u
LjdLp Bom ap TdLUL u TdLjp YhPm. RYV] A[
\k, i V Zj lhP CPjp iVp jRm. (TPm
B) 1.5 AeXjt ALUL RYlThPp, EYm TYL YhP RsThPPu
TjRU]RL AUm. u YhV TX Yh, \ RsThP Pohu
Ujp Yh, dLm (TPm C). CR]p u T [UL Bm. Um
BZU] Poh Lj RsThPPu YhPU] uTdLjR YYm T\f
Nn\. TPm 8.16.

TPm 8.16.
8.6.7. okR EYm
uTdL UjV Cll T AL [UL Cdm (TPm A). CkR [jR dL,
J PohP u Ljd Lhdd r Ck Bom ap YW YWVm (TPm
B). CR Tp Up Tkd Ls[ N NnV Yim. (TPm C). AlTP
Up Ljdd r Ck Bomap YW Y \ RYLd
jVUlTp LY]UL NnV Yim. (E.m) NW RsThP, NnkR RsLs
ApX YhP RsThPLs Tu\ A]jtm CTu\ jReLs Nn
TkU NnV Yim. CRt Rp Ck Ls ReL Yim. J
BPV AmT RsThP NnY], NRWQUL Sm AYR Jj
CdL Yim. (TPm 8.17).
A

TPm 8.17.

104

8.6.8. NWj RsThPLs

Up Es[R P RsLs NWUL CkRp, UV Sm TVuTjmT
Bomap UpT RsL[ ClTm Lj AL EVWULm Cdm (TPm
A). CkR ALlTV] \dLlTh BPu uT ReY Tp
Cdm (TPm B). uTdLm TVuTjRlTm Poh NnkR RsThPV Ut,
TkU NnVlTh, EPV] NVL Rem. (TPm C) u LjdLhdd
r Ul HtTm Tm, C Tu\ Ah_vhUuP NnV Yim (TPm. 8.18).
A

TPm 8.18.
8.6.9. NnY] RsLs
BP Ljp Tk, Lu UpTp TkRp (TPm A), p
ALlTV] UlL[ Ld rTp HtTjm (TPm B). Ljd r
Ck BomapYW Yh, N NnVXm (TPm C). AlTP ULp UhU
Ah_vhUihLs NnVlTmYW LYdL Yim. u Utm u RsT
TkU NnYRt, YZdLUL u Ljl Tp Poh NnY AYVUm.
C ALlTV] L[ Gjd LsYRp, u Utm u Rs CQl
TLs NUUL Cdm (TPm C). Um YhPu Td Su Tkm. B]p
UjR uTm L ALXUL CkRp Up Cll Tp Ck RsT
YW Yh, dLm. (TPm 8.19).

TPm 8.19
8.7. CWi YLLu LXY
AL GP ApX NjRuUV] EPXUl, CTu\ EPXUl
WfN]Lu LXYVL Cdm. UoTLm Lj RrkR ApX TVRLY
CdLXm. RsThP CdLXm. TdLm AL NRLi, Ei
RPu Nok AUkdm (TPm A).
105

EVW BomaPu, ALu\ Pu V (TPm B) RrkR TV UoTLjPu

jRlThP UV RokRdLm (TPm C).
RrkR UoTLjd, TdL PohL[ Nt r C\dLm. CkR PohL[
UoTLjd jRm NnV Up Yhm u dLm (TPm 8.20).

B
A

TPm 8.19
8.7.1. Cl A[Y \jRp
Clu A[Y Uvu p Ah_vh Nnmu, L Ap CQld
Lh] NTodLm. Um, m SoLhp CdU Tojd Ls[m.
Cl L Nt TVRL CkRp uu U ip Cld Lhp
Ck BomaX Sd Poh dLm. C LfRU] TjRm Ldm
(TPm A) uu Tv iLp AR sLp PohP iVp jRm.
BomaX Sd Poh dLlThkRm, Bomap A[ U\. (TPm
B) (TPm 8.21).

YvhX] \jRp

L `oh YVvh Xu TPm 8.21.

106

8.7.2. Cld Lhu A[Y ALjRp

Up Clu ALXjR hRp ApX Clu A[Y ALjRp.
C uTdL CQl KWm, Clu TdL CQl KWm Es[Rp, Clu
Rp A[Y KWeLp NodLXm. RYV] A[Y SuLp Yj u
Utm u U iLu C KWeLm CQdL Yim.
Up hV Tp TYPu CllTm hP Yim. Cum
RX] Cld L NVUlLs SU lhP EPp A[ \TLd
Ht\Y AUdLlThs[]. (GjdLhPL) AuPo Bom mLs u U ip
Cjd LikRp uTp jd Lidm. AR]p jReL[
u U ip UhU NnV Yim. C Tu\ jReLs NnV, AlTP
Up ClLhP [Ud YhPm, \ Pohp Yh, Pohu YYm
U\Up j NV] TjRm HtTjRm.
ALTV] TV UoTLeLd, RsThPp Yh Nn dLm. Pd
j d, RsThPu SUjp Ck UoTLjR Sd dLm.
(TPm D) (TPm 8.22).

Yvh X] ALjRp
107

C
D

TPm 8.22. L [U] Yvh Xu

8.7.3. lT
TYL, UV] u\jp, LfRL Cdm. Gu\m, U JeLL
Tkm (TPm A). N[LoVU] TjRjt, RsThPV ALXUdL Yim.
RYlTm \Y Tp HtTU Bomap r Ck dLL
Rs YW J Yh Nn Ah_vh NnV Yim. (TPm B) u RsTV
ALXUdL Yim. H]p RsThP CkR YYUlp EiPVL Cdm.
NV] Bomap Utm Lj Y[Y HtTj ENn ALlTVL
RsThPp RYlTm \Y T\Xm. (TPm 8.23).

TPm 8.23.
8.7.4. TV UoTLm (Very full bust)
YZdLUL, A]j ULm UoTL A[T RVdLlTu\]. B]p,
UoTL A[ ALlTV]p, NRWQ A[p RVdLlThP U Lj Utm
Bomap Ll TRL Cdm. BLY UoTL A[Y LQdp GdLUp
BomapLp NVL TkmT, J A[] RokRdLm.
CkR V U UoTLm RW Ut\ TLp Tkm (TPm A).
Yvh Xu Rp Bomap YW UoTL Pohu Ujp Ck Up
J Yh Xm Up jRm Nn UoTLju A[Y TRdLXm (TPm
B). UV jRp TV UoTLjt \Y T\Xm. Poh TVRLm,
108

BZU]RLm Bm. Yvh Xu [UdL YiUp, Uu

uTdLjp Poh Tihp Ck SWL Yh, RYV] [Ud Ls[Xm.
NVL TkU PohP `l NnVm (TPm C). Bomad Yvh
Xm RYlTm Gp, u Tp RYlTm A[] j LlTu
r CQlT N NnV Yim (TPm B).
lT \Y]p, CQll T u Tp CdLlTm. CR]
Ah_vh NnVm (TPm C). 2 AeXeLd ALUL ClT[, hP Yim
Gp u Utm uTdL iLp Yh Nn Ah_vhUihP Yl\
CQlLp NnYRP AlTP ULp NnY ELkR. (TPm 8.24).

TPm 8.24.
8.7.5. TV UoTLm- V YvhXu
TV UoTLjPu V YvhXu CkRp Clp Ah_vhUih
Nn NVL TkRX UoTL Tp HtTjRXm. u\ Cl Tp
PohP Clu TdLl Tp Nn (YvhXp Ck Bomap
YW) Cl TV RdLXm. (TPm A). uTdL YvhX], BZU]
Yvh Xu Poh Gj RdLXm. PohP Yl\ PohXu KWeLp
Nn TkU NnVXm (TPm B).

TPm 8.25.
Up, uTdL PohP PohXu Yl\ KWjp Nt BZUL NnV
Yim. AlTRu vLoh Utm EPtT PohLs UtTV CQk
RPofVL Cdm (TPm C).
u\ UV Ah_vh NnL. (TPm D) u\ PohL[ BZUL NnVdP.
H]p uT Pj EiPV] RsL[L Lhm (TPm 8.25).
109

8.7.6. V lt TjU NnRp

UtT Tv Poh Utm vLoh PohL[ CQdL Yim. Tp u
u TdLjp UjV Sds[ PohLs RPofVL CdL Yim. Yl\
Lhp PohLs GdL Yim.
Yvh Utm l UV P RL CkRp, Uu [jtm
J Pd Gj, AR Tp Up Uj P Yim. (TPm A Utm B)
l T Uhm RL Ck, Ah_vhUuhRYlThPp, ALlTV]
UlL[ Uvp TdLYh CQlp Ujh TkU NnV Yim.
Um CR A[] Yhm u Uj hPm ApX \
NnVlThP BPp CQll Tp hPm.
vLohu u, u TdLjp Pou r T@l Ck @h BLUp CkRp
BZU] PohLs, RYd ALUL SpX YYjR T\Xm (TPm C). TYPp
l Tp TdLYhp UlLs Yj, TdLYh CQlp Yh NnVlThP
T Sd PohLs AUj vLohP YYm T\ NnVXm. TYPu Up
Up Tp CkR Ah_vhUih Nn EPXUl \TL[ NNn,
Yvhp NVL TkU NnVXm. (TPm C) (TPm 8.26).

TPm 8.26.
8.7.7. RhPV] u T (flat derriere)
uT RhPVL CkRp, U ip u\ PohP j AR
RdLm. ALlTV] V Uj iVp j CQdLm. X
NUVeLp CqYL EPXUlTp vLoh u]d Red Lidm.
CR RodL vLohu UpT ApX Yvh Xudd Z Poh
dLm. (TPm B).

110

TPm 8.27.
8.7.8. TV ClTm EPVYoLd
C C[YV]d WjVLUL HtTm \TPm. Cl Gm jd
Li, TdLYhm u UjV Tm TkRUp Tm. TYPu
uTdLUL Es[ PohL[ TV ClTm Es[YoLd BZUL YdL
YiPm. UoTLm NVL TkRm. YvhXu VRdmT, uTdL
Tv PohL[ BZUL Yj NVL TkRf NnV Yim. B]p u
PohLs, BZUdLlTYpX. H]p, EPXUl] EiP RsThP
LiPRLd Lhm. (TPm 8.28).

TPm 8.28.
8.7.9. vY Td (Swayback)
CkR EPXUlp Es[ \Thp, Yvh Xud Nt r vLohu
Up dLL UlLs EYm. (TPm A). CkR UlT i ERVp vLohu
Up Tp dLL Uj u NnVm. (TPm B) u NV NTodLm.
u N UVL l Tp WL ClTR E NnVm. Up
CkR Ah_vhUihL[ AR CPjp NnV Yim (TPm C) (TPm 8.29).
111

TPm 8.29
8.7.10. TjR AY
CkR \Thp, vLoh u\m Ujp dLi Cdm (TPm A)
CR] NNnV, uTdL UjV Tp Yvh Xp j, RYV]
A[ CQj AL [jR Yvh Xp dLL Lj, vLoh [m
\V CdLf NnVXm (TPm B). N m Xp Yh Nn vLou
YYjR N NnVXm. Um C Tu\ Ah_vhUih NnVm. (TPm
C). (TPm 8.30).

TPm 8.30
8.7.11. vLoh Yvh X] ALjRp
vLohu Yvh A[Y Up N U ALUdYRu Xm
ALUdLXm. (TPm A Utm B). Tv Yvh Xp jVUdL Yvh
A[p YhY Tp vLohp YhY PV. (TPm C).
Tv YvhX] ALUdV AR Tihp, AR A[p vLoh
Yvh A[Ym ALUdLm. ARY, vLohu uU ip Uhm
ApX u U ip Uhm ApX CU iLm N u A[Y
ALlTjYRu Xm Yvh X] ALdLXm. (TPm 8.31).
112

TPm 8.31.
8.7.12. vLoh Yvh X] \dL
Yvh A[Y \dL, Yvh Xp Ck
CP YW J PohP UdLm. Tv A[ TX
vLoh A[tm jVUdLm. (TPm A Utm B)
lT P Yvh A[ VRL CkRp, vLohu
u TdL Yvhp TjRU] Nt, BZU] PohLs
Yj, jVUdLm.
PohL[ TdLYhp Ah_vh Nn Pohu
Yl\ Lhp Yh RdLm. RYVt\
ALlTV] A[] Yvh Utm CPTp
Uj Pd Nn Uu [jp \dLm. Up
TPm 8.32
CTp NNnVm. Y RhPVL CkRXV
TYL C Tu\ Ah_vhUih Tp UhU RYlTm. (TPm
8.32).
8.7.13. ldm TkRf NnRp
U A[Y P l ALXU]RL CkRp, Uvp CQlT LjRdLm.
BPV YhmT RYV] A[ V AkR CPjp NodLm. AL
A[p CPp NodL YiV CkRp (Yvhp NodL YiPm). Up
amp Ck Yvh YWp 4 AeXeLs TdLYh p Ck YhPm.
NVL RYlTm l A[d Uv] j, i V iVp
j YdLm (TPm A).
Up NNnV, TdLYh CQlp AR A[] hPm. (TPm B)
lu Tdm am Xdm Es[ A[Y] JW A[YL NUUL
CdL Yim. Up jRlThPR YvhXu PohL[ im dLm.
Yvh A[ ALdL YiU]p ALU] A[] Yvh CQlu
YlTp NodL Yim (TPm C). (TPm 8.33).

113

TPm 8.33
8.7.14. W] LhdLs
Lh oUVL CkRp, PohLs NVL
CkRm, LlT AL CdLUL Rs Tk
Cjd Lidm. Lh Tp ALU]
RYlTm. BLY JqY PohPm Nt BZUL
TPm 8.34
Yj, hV UPd Toj NR] NnVm.
N[LoVUL Rum T ALUL NodLlThP
A[] j Gjd Ls[m. L UV Ah_vh NnmT, Pohu
Ujp Yh L CQlu EhTdLm YW YhPm. \ RYV[ A[
PohP dLm. PohLs RjRu BZU]YLs. h Tp AL CPm
N[LoVU] LlTV AUdm. LlT [ULY ApX \Y]RLY
Clu, Up AR CPjp Ah_vh NnVm (TPm 8.34).
8.7.15. UtL
UtL EPV EPXUld, YZdLUL Lu
UpTp AL Ul RYlTm. B]p Bomap
A[ U\. Bomap A[ U\Up, Lu A[p
Uhm jRm NnV Yim. L [ju Ujk
Yh Nn dLm. u RYV] A[Y j
V UV EYdLm. YhPlThP Lu Tp
Ck PohL[ Lu UpT Sd GdLm.
PohLs Bomap Sd CkRm Bomap
A[] Ut\.

TPm 8.35

W
EPXUlu YL Tt YWVjRu AlTP Up RYV] jRm
NnVXm. EYjp RhP Uom, EiP Rs Tu\ C \TLs CkRp
114

Up C YL EYjtm RYlTm jRm NnV Yim. C

Tp Uvp UL[ NnVXm. LfRU] TjRm Utm EPV
GmUV] \Ts[ EYjtm RVo NnVXm. UV jVUjRp
TtV RY] A, YYUlT[oLd LfRUL TkRdV EPL[
EYdL ERVL Cdm.
]dLs
I.

NV] PV RokR

1.

ULs _________ RVdLlTu\].

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

A) EPp

B) T A[Y

C) A[

D) YV

J Xu EPXUlt Ht\Y Ju ApX UtThP CPeLp jRm

Nn _________ NnVlT\.
A) A[t Ht\RL

B) N[LoVm

C) ReLPp

D) Rt\m

WkRWUL jVUdLlThP ULs _________ \p NnVlTu\].

A) Ul

B) Yh

C) A Utm B

D) Yh jRp

ULp GlT jRm NnV Yim?

A) Rdm u

B) RdmT

C) Nu NnmT

D) YhYRt u

U iP TRdL _________ Xm NnVXm

A) i TlTW CQjRp

B) JhRp

C) YhRp

D) j AUjRp

[v [jR ALdL _________ \ TVuT\

A) Yh

7.

B) jRp

C) A Utm B

vLoh UV jVUdL _________ SWL CdL Yim

A) Z N B. Nu

8.

9.

D) UjRp

C) Poh

D) GpX.

TV YhP vLohP [UdL RYV] [jR _________ p NodLXm.

A) amXu

B) Yvh Xu

C) UjRUL

D) A Utm B

_________ LLs TLdLlTm

A) p N

B) BP YYUlT[o

C) A Utm B

D) Poh Xu

115

10. U _________ T jVUdLlTPXm.

A) EPXUl
11.

B) Nu

C) YV

D) A[

UtL EPV EPXUl YZdLUL _________ AL UlLs RYlTm.

A) TV Bomap

B) Lu rT

C) Lu UpT

D) V Bomap

12. UV jVUjRp \kR \ _________

A) YhRp Utm jRp

B) Yh

C) A[Ls

D) A, B, C

II. LhP CPjR Wl

1.

ULs _________ A[ Li RVdLlT\.

2.

ULs _________ , _________ Cdm.

3.

vLoh Yvh A[ Up _________ I ALj NnVlT\.

III. 2 UlTi ]dLs

1.

UV j AUjRp YWV.

2.

UV j AUjRp TVuL[ G.

3.

[^ VRdL Up GqY j AUlTn?

4.

GqYLV] EYeLp U jVUdLlT\ GuTR ThV.

5.

UV jVUjRp Tt Y.

6.

UV jVUjRp TA[YL[ ThV.

7.

ALXjp UV UtRp Es[ TiLs Gu\p Gu]?

8.

NnkR RsThPp GqY U jVUlT NnYn?

9.

UV jVUjRu dVjYm Tt G.

10. UV jVUjRp AlTP TkRp WfN]L[ ThV.

IV. 5 UlTi ]dLs
1.

AlTP UV jVUjRp HtTm WfN]L[ ThVh

TPjPu [d.

2.

UV jVUjRp AlTP LsLL[ [d.

3.

EVWm \dLlThP vLoh Utm [UdLlThP LLp UV GqY

jVUlTn?

4.

RsThP ALXjp jVUjRX Tt G.

116

5.

U jVUjRu RYV [d.

6.

RsThP ALXjR Up j AUdm \ Tt G.

7.

[Ydp UV jVUjRu TiL[ ThV

8.

rYY]Ytd Up jVUjRp \V G.
A. vLoh Yvh X] ALjRp

9.

B. vLoh Yvh X] \jRp

V ld TjRU] UV jVUjRp Tt G.

10. EiPV] RsThPp UV jVUjRX GqY NnYn?

V. 10 UlTi ]dLs
1.

HRm u\d UV jVUjRp Tt [d

A. u TdLm
B. [^ [UdRp
C. UtL
D. TYPu Yvh X^ ALUdRp
E. W] Lh

2.

TpY YLV] RsThPp UV jVUjRX [dL.

3.

EY JeLt\ AUlp (HRm u) U jVUjRp Tt [d?

4.

RhP Uo, UoTLm CYttL] U UtVUl Tt [dL.

5.

TV Cl Gm vY Td BVYtp U UtVUjRX TPjPu

[d.

117

9. ThPLm AXeLW fLm

(Belts and Bows)
uW
ThPLs Cll T] \ NnYRt TVuTu\]. Um CY
UpNhP Utm TYPu CQlm U\d\. BPu YYjt
Ht\Y ThPu Tem AUkdL Yim. EPV JjR Nos[
ApX NoTt\ \eL[ \lTL TVuTjRp Yim.
BPdL] ]p NnVlThP ThPLs AXeLWULm, TVuTPV
RLm AUm. AYt\ UuUV]RLY ApX Wlj RuUV]RLY,
V ApX ALXU], YYUt\ ApX dLX] YYeLPVRLY,
BPu RuU Utm SLL Tet Ht\Y AUdLXm. Tnji
TVuTj Wlj RuU Li RVdLlTm ThPLs YYm U\ \lTL
Cdm. Uvu, Tpe Wv, Wu lTu ApX Rp BVYt\
TVuTjRXm. ThP TYL Ld ApX AXeLW Ld ApX
CQlTuLs TVuTj RVdLlT\. SoTh, TnlTh, LjlTh Utm
TYPl Th BVY NejRL Yh RVdLlTu\]. B]p Nx
ThPLs (Sash belt) dj Yj RVdLlTu\].
9.1 ThPu [jR LQdm \
Rp ThPu [jR A[k jd Ls[ Yim. NRWQUL
EPu t\[Y P 7 ALU] [jR ThP LidL Yim. TXm
Cl t\[Y JlP 7 ALUL RjRm AR] AmT ThPu
[m TXd \km. AR]p ThPV RjR u Ak Toj A[Y
NTjR Yim.
9.2. ThPLu YLLs
LZhPdV ThPLs C YLlTm. AY
1. UuUV] ApX Wlj RuUVt\
2. EV] \Y EPV WlT] ThP
9.2.1 UuUV] ThP ApX P (Soft belt or Tie)
ThP RlTRt RYV] J [j V (tape) o]u NV]
TdLjp RVP Yim. CjRVX] WkW RVp ThP u ThPV
Es TdLjk YlTdLt Cdm YLp AUkdL Yim.
ThPu C TdLeLm NV] CPjp TjRlTYRt u [ V]
EiUV] TdLm UdmT RdLlTP Yim. (TPm A). o ] Utm
C TdLLeL[m t WkRW RVPm. NW U]p lYRt YNVL
R[ RdLUp Pm. ThPu (belt) KWeL[ NmTjRm. WkRW
RVYRt u o]l T L]UL RVUdL ARu ]s[
V R[ Yh NUuTjRm. s u ]V Cj ThPu
118

Eh\jp RVPm. (TPm B) s V YV tUL Cj KWeL[

Rj \ NnVm. RlTRt GR] CkR ThPV BPVUdm
]XV NnVXm. (TPm C)

TPm 9.1.
9.2.2. WlT] ThP (Stiffened belt)
Wlj V TVuTj CqYL ThPLs RVdLlTu\]. CRu
Wlj RuU LWQUL ThP EPp NVL Tkdm. ThP RVdm
d Ht\Y, Wlj Vm RokRdL Yim.
a
FOLD LINE

SNIP

TACKING

FOLD LINE

TPm 9.2

119

dLlThP ThPu A[XV Wlj V Yh Gjd Ls[

Yim. ThP u EsTdLm SlTp WljV Pde Nn
TjRm. Ut\m l Ydm T TU]m NVL ClTRt TPjp
Es[ TX oUV] TL[ m NnVm. o]s[ ALlTV]
V Eh\UL Ujd Ls[m. J TdLjp Es[ s V Wlj
d Up Uj Pd NnVm. UTdLjs[ V Eh\UL Uj
HtL]Y Pd NnR u Yj Pd NnVm. CR] CVkW RVp
Li \ NnVm. RYlTUp KWi RVpL[ YNVL Th
AZ TjRm ApX AlTV Pm. NW]p RYlTUp AZtLL
Td[ (Buckle) TjRXm. CqYLV] ThPL[ BPVUdm
]XV NnVXm. (TPm 9.2)
9.2.3. YYUdLlThP ALu\ ThPLs (shaped wide belts)
CqYLV] ThPLs AZtLL YYUdLlTu\]. CR]
YYUlTRt HtL]Y p S]j dLm dLlThP Tnji ApX
RU]] Tjj RYlTm. d Ht\ L]U] TnjiP
RokRdLm. Tnjiu CQdm Ts[ ALlTV] ]
d, EsTdLs[ Pu CQdLm. YYm EPV ThP Gp, ARu
YYjtLtT KWeL[ UjR ApX Yh Y[TjV CQdLm.
u]o, Yl\UL l, RYlTUp UpTdL KWjp RVh
AZTjRXm. (TPm 9.3)

TPm 9.3
9.2.4 Tnji YdLlThP ThP (Interfaced belt)
C J UuUV] ThPVm. AmT C N[LoVjR AjRm,
TX SWeLp C LV Tu i u\. C Wlj RuU At\R]p
SLLjt Ht\RL LRlTYpX. CR] YYUlT Lm GRm.
B]p Yj TVuTjRdV ThPV RVdm T TniP NV]
\p Ro NnV Yim.
CkR YL ThPV YYUdm T, Rp ] sYdp
CWhPVLUjd Li, ARu ALXjtLtT TnjiP Yh Gjd
Ls[m.
EsTdLUL TnjiP Tj, KWeL[ NVL Yh YYUdLm,
(TPm 9.4) Tnjiu s ]V, ThPu SdLhp CQj RdLm.
120

U] KWeL[ Es Uj Yj Up RVPm ThPu YYm RYL

ClTRt ARu KWeLp Up RVPm. TdsL[ (Buckle) CQj Up
RVPm (TPm 9.4)

TPm 9.4
9.2.5. Eh\ SP CQdLlThP ThP (The belt with belting as backing)
RXp NnVlTh Rd Ht\ (Professional) AUlp CqYL ThPLs
AUks[]. CkR Wl Eh\ SP ThP LV Tp eLUp, ARu
YYm U\dU AUks[. Ut\ ThPL[ P, CRu RVlp AL
LY]m NjR Yim. NXY NnVdV ThPVL Clu ARu SPY
p S]j dLm d Pm.
1.

EPu t\[Y P 7 AeXm [m ALdU RYlTm YYjp

SP V YhPm.

2.

BPd JjR V [Ydp, ThPV P J AeXm ALXULm.

J AeXm [ULm YhPm.

3.

EPp AVd V Y[kR YYjp ThPV Yj ARPu SPj

V Eh\UL Tj 1/2 AeXm Uj RdLm.

4.

Y[Y] YYjXV Yj r\s[ V YYm U\Up

dLeLpXUp Tj RdLm.

5.

Ut\jp TV RVpL[d Li CVkWjp RVPm. Ut\m

Cm RVX KWeLp AUdLUp 1/4 CPY h \ NnVm.
Y[[m TiLu hP TYPp Es[ Cll ThPu ALXjm
CR] RdLXm.

ThPu Yl\m

Eh\m
TPm 9.5
121

d
pN
lTu

9.2.6 Luo ThPLs (The contour belt)

Cl Y[p \lTL Tk, EPu u\jp Nt C\dLUL CdU
Luo ThPLs YUdLlTu\]. AmT EPu Y[] Su\L
GjLhU CkR ThPLs AUu\]. SW] ThPL[ P CqYL
ThPL[ YYUdL SWm ALm RYlT\.
CqYL ThPLs Tnji Utm Wlj BVYt\d Li
NVL CQdLlTh YYUdLlTu\]. CkRlThPLs Tnji
YdLlThP ThPLs TXY lTlTh \ NnVlTu\.
pNu [Yh
L
EhTdL Tds
Uu CQl L

TPm 9.6

9.2.7 EhTdL ThP (The inner belt)

Cl Tp Wlj RuU TYRtLL, Eh\m J ] Yj
CqYL ThP RVdLlT\. d Yh , Cl Y[Vju EhTp
Yj RdLlTh TYPPu CQdLlT\. EPu YYjR \lTL
GjdLhP CqYL ThP TVuTjRlT\.

EhTdLm

YlTdLm

hm Te

YlTdLm

EhTdLm

TPm 9.7
BP YYUlp ThPLs J dV Te Ydu\. JqY ThPm
YYUdLlTh ARPu TdsLs CQdLlTh RVdLlTu\]. CY
JqYum YYjm, NVpThm RjRuU YnkRY. BPu
Rt\jtLtT YqY YLL[ TVuTjd Ls[Xm.
122

9.3. AXeLW fLs (Bows)

BPV AXeLj, SLLjt Ht\oTp AZQof HtTjR AXeLW
fLs TVuTjRlTu\]. C TYL ZkRLs Utm ULdL]
BPLp TVuTjRlTu\. CY L[p RVdLlTh, TjRuL[Lm
TVuTu\.
9.3.1. AXeLW fLu YLLs
9.3.1.1. GUV] AXeLW fLs
CY UXRr Tu\ ApX ThPm fu YYjX AUdLlT\.
ALXjt Ht\Y fN LhYRtL] u [m AU\. TYL
fu SlT KWeL[P VRL AUm. u dl Tp
CUPe A[p V YhPm. AXeLW fu A[Pu UlLdm
Noj ] A[k YhPm. dj i] CWiPL Uj UpTdLeLs
Ju\L CdmT KWeL[ Rjd Ls[m. RdLlThP KWeLs[
ALlTV] V Yh dPm. NV] TdLm l ]
NUuTj, KWeL[ Rj dLm.
f RVlTRt ] NTVL A[k jd Ls[m. CWi
Tm CWi UlL[ AUdLm. CP TdLjp J Ulm, YX
TdLjp J UlTm HtTj Juts Ju\ j Sp fPm.
CWi Y[Lm JW A[p CdU NTodLm. C J L AZL]
AXeLW fNm.
9.3.1.2. dLeLPV AXeLW fLs (Gathered bows)
XvLs Li, jW u]p YXlTLPu ApX AR p
NnVlThP AXeLW fLs GUV] BPLd AZhu\]. RYV]
YYjp fN YYUj, KWeL[ Rjd Ls[m. u Sp u
AdLp RVh AYt\ d, u Su\L Cj fPm.
Lm UuUVL CkRp, WlTL CdL BoLi ApX PPu
] Es TdLUL Yj RdLm.
9.3.1.3. lTu AXeLW fLs (Ribbon Bow)
lTu ApX Ehj u (Fabric tubing) RVdLlThP lTu fLs,
Lj Utm Cl \lT fPm, GUV] AXeLWjtLLm
TVuTu\. RYV] A[ lTuL[ Gj TjR YiV Tp
Lid RVR RVpLh TjRm. YpYh ApX Nhu
lTuL[ TVuTjmT ARu EsT YV RVRY Uj Rjd
Ls[m. CjRLV fLs NnYRt GUVL ClTR, TolTRtm
L AZLL Cdm.

123

W
ThPLm, AXeLW fLm EPu Rt\jR UmTj AZhPd
V]Ym. ZkRLs CYt\ Lm mYo. C YV, T]m Utm
Ym CPjt Ht\Y UT\. BiLs WlT], ALX ThPL[
mYo. TiLs Utm ZkRLs UuUV] Th]p NnVlThP ThPV
mYo.
]dLs
I.

NV] PV RokRdLm

1.

djiP TVuTj RdLlThP ThP

A) LjlThP

2.

B) Tnji

C) TYP

D) Nx

_____ L UuUV] ThPVm.

A) YYUdLlThP B) LjlThP C) WlT]

3.

4.

Td (Professional) Ht\ AUlp EsThP

A) Eh\ SP AUdLlThP ThP

B) Luo ThP

C) Tnji YdLlThP ThP

D) WlT] ThP

RYV] ClT[Y P _____ AeXm [UL ThP CdL Yim.

A) 7

5.

D) Tnji

B) 9

C) 5

D) 8

YYUdL AL SWm RYlTm ThP

A) GUV]

B) YYPV

C) Luo

D) Tnji

II. LhP CPjR WlL :

1.

______ TjRuL[Lm TVuTu\].

2.

EPu YYjR \lTL GjdLhP ______ ThP TVuTjRlT\.

3.

______ ThPL[ Y[[m TiLu hP TYPp Es[ Cll

Thu ALXjm RdLXm.

4.

______ YL ThP SLLjt Ht\RL LRlTYpX.

5.

______ \eLs ThPp \lTL TVuTjRlT\.

III. 2 UlTi ]dLs

1.

ThPLu YLL[ ThVPm?

2.

AXeLW fLs Gu\p Gu]?

124

3.

ThPLu dV TVu Gu]?

4.

ThPu [jR GqY NTolTn?

5.

dLeLPV AXeLW fLs Gu\p Gu]?

IV. 5 UlTi ]dLs

1.

WlT] ThP AUdm \V TPjPu Y.

2.

Eh\ SP CQdLlThP ThPV Y.

3.

Tnji YdLlThP ThP AUdm \V Y.

V. 10 UlTiLs
1.

HRm u YLV] ThPL[ TPjPu Y.

2.

AXeLW fLs Gu\p Gu]? ARu YLL[ Y.

TpLs
I. NV] PV RokR
1. D

2. B

3. A

4. C

5. C

II. LhP CPjR WlL

1. AXeLW f
2. Eh\m
3. Eh\ SP CQdLlThP
4. Tnji YdLlThP
5. GoU\V]

125

10. BPu \lTUl

YV, T]m Utm C]m YqY\lm JqY R URm Ru
\lT] Rt\jPu [eL \YL AXeLj YYUdLlThP BPV
Au\]o. AXeLWUt\ YUV] BP JYu Rt\jR UeL Nn\.
G]Y JqY BPm AXeLdLlTh \ NnVlT\. CqWim
Ko SQVju C TdLeLs Tp [eu\]. CYt\ RjR, CQjR
TVuTjRXm. Ko BP \lTL Rj dLlTP YiUp CqWim
AYVU]RL LRlT\. BPu Rt\jR UmTjR V YhYm
NV] A[p RlTm TU]RL AUV. TjRU] AXeLWjR Ro
NnY Utm KWeL[ \ NnYm BP YYUlu Ko TVL
LRlT\.
10.1. AXeLjRp
AXeLjRp BPL[ AZTj\. CY BPu UtTWlp
AZTjYRtLLY ApX RdLlTh BPu J TVLY
AUdLlT\. TVuTjm URo AYu EY AUl Utm BP YLV
Tjm AXeLjRp AUm.
10.2. AXeLjRu YLLs
10.2.1. E AUl AXeLWm
E AUl AXeLWm GuT BPu EY AUlXV NnVlT\.
Cp SojV] YXlTm dLU] YYUlm NnVlTYRp BPPu
Tk \lT] YYjR Ld\. C BPd SpX \Y Ld\.
10.2.2. Ut\ AXeLWm
BPu YYjR Jjs[ \eLs Utm YLLs ApX Go
\eLs Utm YLL[d Li Lm LXSVjR, dLUL NnVlTm
YXVm. Ut\m Yh JhY Tu\ NVpTLs Cp CpX.
10.3. E AUl AXeLWju YLLs
10.3.1. PoLs
EPu YYUltm, Y[Ldm Ht\Y BPLs AUlTRtLL
lhP ALXjt J TdLjp Ul NnVlTh UTdLjp Jum CpXUp
J oUV] dLQ Yp Es[ AUlT Poh G]lTm. PoLs L,
Lj Y[, Rs Tu\ TLp AUdLlT\.
TPm 10.1.
Ljp AXeLWjtLL
NnVlThs[ PoLs

126

10.3.2. dLeLs (Gatherings) : V Ju\L Cj NolTR dLUm.

C \Y HtTjm J \Vm. TV V LiP EPp
LXV EYdL dLeLs TVuTu\]. EPV AXeLdm T,
dLeL[ Vd, Cl LLp ETVLlTjRXm. NU CPY h CWi
YNLp RdLlTm dLeLs `oe (Shurring) G]lTm. dLeLs
AZtLLm, SojV] YYjtm, RW[jRuUdm RPVt\
NVpThtLLm NnVlT\.

TPm 10.2. Clp dLeLs

10.3.3. UlLs (Pleats) : C J RU] kR AUlTm. RWk
Nej AUlTL NU CPYp AUk SpX RW[jRm Ldm
UlLs J SW] SojV] EY AUlT HtTj\. C TdLYh
Ul CWhP Th Ul, RXr Th Ul, SW] Ul, BoLu Tl
Ul, d Ul, Lohw Ul, uf Ul G] TpY YLV] UlLs
Es[].

TPm 10.3. Clp AUdLlThP UlLs

10.3.4. Pdv (Tucks) : C UlL[ Jj Cdm. B]p BPu
[jm NnVlT\. BLVp PdLd Z Ru BPu \
HtT\. l Pdv, Y[ Pdv, vLXl Pdv, d Pdv G] TX YLlTm.

TPm 10.4.
Rs Y[p AUdLlThP u Pdv

127

10.3.5. vUde (Smoking) : CkR AXeLW YXlT lTL ZkRLs

BPLs Utm _dLhLs Tu\Yt\ AZTjR TVuT\. C J
lhP A[ V Cj dLeL[d NnVlTm AXeLW RVXm.
Cp aLml (Honey comb), de Tu (Hooking bone), Ps (Double) Tu\Y
G] TpY RVpLs LQlTu\].

TPm 10.5. Vdp NnVlThP vUde

Wg vUde AL V d NnVlTm J \kR \Vm. C
Su YLp NnVlT\. TPm 10.6p LhPlThs[ Tu 1/2 ApX 1
NWeL[ Rp p YWVm. Aj TPm 1, 2 BVYtp LhPlThP
Tu A sVm B sVm CQdLm. Aj TPm 3 Tp ABC m
TPm 4 Tu ABCDm CQdLm. Aj f Th Cj u AjR
NWjt NpXm. YX TdLs[ X Nt NL Pm. C AZLm,
\Ym HtTjm.

TPm 10.6. Wg vUde

10.4. TX YLV] TVuTh AXeLWm (Aplied decorations)
10.4.1. jWl u]p YXlT : TVuT AXeLW \Lp L \kR.
jWl u]p YXlT Bm. B]p CRt SpX \u, SWm Utm LXQof
AYVm RY. jWu]p YXlThP LL[p ApX CVkWjRp
NnVXm. C 11m Yl jRLjXV LdLlThs[.
128

10.4.2. Xd]u dLu YXlT (Chikankari Embroidery)

Ys[ \ pL[ Li TYL NnVlTm C Lf\lT] Wj
Tt\ jW YXlTh \Vm. C Xd][ SLWju LX BoYjR
WTdm J \lT] dLU] YXlTPm. Xd]u dLuL
YXlT GU Utm UuUV]. BLVp YlTU] RhTYlT Xd
Ht\. C N[LoVm Utm LXQof dL UlPV.
200 YPeLd UXL Es[ CkR dLuL YXlT, EjWWRNjs[
Xd][ Td EV LXVm. CRu RPdLjR BWmT, LXV Uu]u
_aeu W, o_aPu ToVk CkVt YkR G] RV
Yks[. IWlV SLs[ X L[WYU] CpXeLp CqYL jWu]p
YXlT LQlThPRtL] NuLs Cu\[m Es[]. YXlT NnVlTP
YiV YYm LhP Af ApX RW AfLs Xm XVt\ \eL[
(fugitive colours) TVuTj Lp NnVlTu\. 40 YLV] RVpLs Cp
CkRm 30 YL UhU Cu\[m TVuTjRlT\. CYt\ 3 Tm
RXlL[L Sm dLXm. RhPV], UP], _ YX Tu\ \kR Wpv.
Cs[ EYYeLs TmTuUV]Y LXV LXfNWjR Jjdm.

TPm 10.7
10.4.3. SQV jW YXlT (Coin work embroidery)
SQV jW YXlT BPLp YLWU] AZL
HtTj\. JqY SQVm AjR[jp pLs,
lTuLs ApX LmL[p SojVL TjRlT\.
BPLp ULs Tu\ Y ThL[m CQj
J EXL Rl Tu\ AUlPVRL C AU\.
YP BlLvRu Utm YP TvRu YWs[ f
TZe C UdLPk Rus[ LX C. AYoLs
C]jRt\ LWQjtLL SQVeL[ [vd, j Utm
EXL ThPuLPu CQj BoYhPdV YXlT
TPm 10.8
L[ NnR]o. ATYu Ts YNVm, Nnm
RX WTlTRt HtTm, EPLp SQVeLp
NodLlThP]. ASLUL BPu YYm ApX EY AUltLt\ V
ApX JjR TUQ AUlp LodLlThP ULPu SQVeLm BPLPu
CQdLlThP].
129

10.4.4. P jWu]p YXlT (Dori Embroidery)

P jWu]p YXlT Si Tu\ YY] ]p NnVlTu\.
BPL[ AZTjYRtLL TX YiQ pL[ TVuTj L[fe ApX
_oR RVp \ NnVlT\. C TYL X duLs LhP Utm
jdL[m Noj U]m LYm Rjp AZhPlT\.
P jW YXlThp TVuTjRlTm LmLs TX YiQeLp N]
\lTL Lhm YLp Cdm. Uhl Nu Yl\jR AXeLdL
Lm TVuTjRlT\. u\ RVp Yj RdLlThP YYU] Xv
Yj RjR Tu\ Rt\jRm BPV h RVp UXmV Tum
[em. LmPu L[fe NnV TVuTm p YV RVUp JW \ULY
ApX BoYjR HtTjm YLp NoTt\ \ULY CdLXm. ReL \
ApX Ys \ LmL[ jWlu]p YXlThp TVuTjYRp U]m
LYm Rjp EXLju WLNjPu m.
TZUV] LhPL YXlT GuT YYUlT[oLd jR Ju\m.
C UXo YYjp AUdLlTh BP Ym ApX BPu KWeLp
C L Tu\ AUlp YYUdLXm. C TYL ReLm Utm Ys
LL[p AUdLlThP \lT] AXeLW Xv YXlT Bm.
LhPL LX GuT Ald jWlu]p YXlT Tu\Rm. Cp
TX RU] \jRt\j RuU HtTjRdV YLp ReL ApX Ys \
SnVlThP Ls. Y Ls TjRlT\. C TX SWeLp UXu
CRrL[V ApX CXL[ WlT TVuT\. Ald jWl u]p
YXlT KWeLp Nej RVp ApX P YX Nn J EY[
AUlp NnVlT\. X NUVeLp LhPYp (gota) KWeLs AUj u]
(kinari) NnVlT\. C dLeLPu gNm Tu\ r TdLm LjR] AUlT
Li KWeL[ AXeLdm \Vm.

TPm 10.9.
10.4.5. Lhf jWlu]p YXlT
k RVp (Sindhi Stitch) G] TZeLXjp AZdLlThP Lhf jWlu]p
YXlTP] Lu RWQV ALUdL TVuT\. Cp LQlThP
[ RVpLm, UX Pkdm YYeLm u UtTWlTm,
Wlm YYUlTL AU\. YYju KWeLs LL[p YWVlTh, Ut\
130

CPeLs Ym YhP YY LiQj iL[m, TjRu [ RVp

XULm WlTlT\. Lhf YXlTU dj RVpL[p
NnVlT\.
C _Wj UXjs[ Lhf TV NokR TZe]Wp NnVlTm
LiQd LYm EVoRW jW YXlTPm. ClTp UQlTi Ru LQYu
ht UQm k YmT ALXuLs Utm \ TsL[ Nok
AY[U, AYs h \ TiL[m NnVlThP EVoRW BPmTW jW
YXlT NnVlThP BPL[ Li YYs. Lhp Es[ JqY
WUjm YYjp, jW YXlThm AYoLdLu J RlThP
UThP SP\V Yjs[]o.
TX LXLm CQkR \lT] CkR Lhf YXlT, TjRu [ RVp,
Lm, Ne, Nhu, aoeTu, \kR Ne RVp, CuPo Xe Ne
RVp, WUu RVp, Jhj RVp Ut\ Poe RVp Tu\ TX RVpL[p
AZTjRlT\. Cp TVuTjRlTm \eLs WLNU] Ll, LWp, BWg,
TfN, CuL, XY]\m, W_ \m Utm Tols. Cp TVuTjRlTm
UlLs YYm, SP]Um UR EYm, Up YYm Utm V YYm.

TPm 10.10.
10.4.6. _oR YXlT (Zardoze Embroidery)
_oR YXlT Lm LmWU] EXL jW u]p YXlTPm.
Rp V dLeLpXUp J UWfNhPjs j Yj Nu YWk
Ls[ Yim. u FV TVuTj _oR ThL[ FVp Gj
p TjRlT\. _oR GuT ReL Utm Ys \j LsL[p
SnVlThP dLX] BPmTW YXlTPm. C Um LiLYm Rjp
TWu Th, YpYh, WL Tu\ Lp AUj ARPu j
ApX XVokR AVYL LtLs Li T[RW NlT YlTj
YXlT NnVlT\.
J LXjp CkV Uu]oLs Utm AW mTj]u EPL[ AZTj
AXeLdL _oR YXlT TVuTjRlThP. dYR LXjkR _oR
YXlT CkVp TZdLjp Es[. LPsLu BPL[ CkR _oR
AXeLjRdL] NuLs Cu\[m Es[]. C nUV] Ys pLs
131

Lim, ReL CXLs Lim TZeLXjp NnVlThP. _oR Gu\ YojR

ToVk YkRRm. _o Gu\p ReLm Gum R Gu\p jWu]p
YXlT Gum TsTm. CkR YXlThp TVuTjRlTm ThLs
NpU Gu\ ReLSi, jRW Gu\ EXL ShNjWeLs, NmLs, LiQ ULs,
PlL Gu\ iP ReLSi Utm LNl Gu\ LmLs
10.4.7. p YXlT (Thread work Embroidery)
TX RU] Lp TX YLV] pLs Li L \lT] AXeLWm
p YXlThp NnVlT\. (E.m. Tj, Th, LmT, ReLm Utm Ys
LmLs, CkR YXlT NnTYu YNdLtT NhPjp TjRlTh ApX
LL[p NnVlT\. TXRU] RVpLs Cp TVuTjRlTu\]. CWi
YLV] p YXlT Es[]. 1. UtTWl p YXlT (Surface embroidery)
2. GidLPV p YXlT (Counted thread embroidery)
UtTWl p YXlThp TX RU] AXeLW RVpLs EYYjp
NnVlTh, u]o X] AlTP s NjRlTPUp d Up
NjRlT\. GidLPV p YXlThp YXlT NnTYo FV
ds Njm u p pL[ GiYo. TYL NU GiLs EPV
L[V Cp TVuTjYo. LuR (Kantha), LR (Kashidha), Lh (Kasuti),
LW (Gara), pL (Phulkari) Utm Lhf YXlT (Katch work) BVY p
YXlThu YLL[m. GpX YLV] RVpLm Cp TVuTjRlTu\].
(E.m) Ne, Nhu, \kR Ne RVp, [hP RVp, Wg RVp,
CiPoXe, aoe Tu, KhjRVp, LmjRVp, u\j RVp RV].
(TPm. 10.12).

TPm 10.11.
10.4.8. lTu jW YXlT (Ribbon work embroidery)
Th lTu jW YXlT GuT J LtT] kR TZUV] LXVm.
CqYXlThp TX YL lTuLs, jWlu]p YXlT pLs Utm
YiUV] Tj p BVY TVuTjRlT\. CYt\ Li AZL]
YXlTm jW RVpLm NnVlTu\]. CqYXlThP RjR
ApX Y YLL[] WVu jW YXlT, d RVpLs (Cross
stitch) W pLs (Quilt) Utm aohaeLo (Hardanger) BVYPu
CQjm NnVXm.
132

Th lTu jW YXlT J SojV]

dPVu YXlTPm. TZUV] LXVm.
Rt\jp L L]U] dLX] YXlTPL
CkRm NnYRt L XTU]. TmTm
EPLs, Utm QlThLs Utm h
ETVLj Lp LL[p CqYXlTLs
NnVlTu\]. CdLXp TpY YLV] jV
RVp ETVdLlTu\]. AYtp Lm WTXUL
TVuTjRlTY lTu RVp, X Pn RVp,
So RVp, LmjRVp Utm lWg f Bm.
TPm 10.13.
CjRVpL[ RVL ApX TX Ju Nok TV
dLj YYUhlLs Utm RVp EYYeLs EYdL TVuTjRlT\.
lTu ETVj lTu RVX Uhm EYdL m. Ut\ RVpLd
lTu ApX ] TVuTjRXm. Nm, ULs Utm LtLs CYt\ lTPu
CQj BPLp, pLp (Quilts) QlThLp Utm h ETVLj
Lp NnVlTm lTu YXlT AYtt Ko PmLjRm, AZLm
Lj Rt\jR UmTj\. C\j RVp, kR RVp, vh RVp
(Split) kR u RVp (Fly Stitch Fern) BVY lTu YXlThPu
TVuTjRlTm Y X RVpLs Bm.
10.4.9. LtLs TdLlThP YXlT (Stone work embroidery)
TX YLV] Lp LQdXPeL YYeLp LtLs TdLlThP
YXlTLs AZLL NnVlTu\]. RtLX RYLd Ht\ RUL TpY
jRm V YYeLp RjRuU YnkR YYeLs NkRp Pdu\].
TpY YYeLp, YLLp, \ NnVlThP XVokR AV YL LtLs
Utm NRWQ LtLm AeLLp Pdu\]. SLLjp lTs[
YdLV[oLu lTm Utm RYdLt\ TX \eLp LtLs Pdu\].
NdLs Yh YY Nds AXeLW YXlThtLL TVuTu\]. NdLs
TpY YiQL YiQeLm V YYeLm Pdu\]. TYL
NdL[ BPLm SLLm PLm Ut\ \ ThLm AXeLWjm
TVuTjRlT\.
jWlu]p YXlThP \lTL
GjdLhP LtLs TdLlThP YXlT
NnVlT\. vPp ULm, NRWQ
LtLm RtT ALUL TVuTjRl
T\. dV YY AXeLWjp
UVULm, LL[ HtTjRm \
AXeLWeLd TpY YLV] LtL[
TVuTjRXm. LtL[ GpX YLV]
jWlu]p YXlThPm CQj
\lT] WjRV YYm EYdLXm. TX
133

TPm 10.14.

\s[ LtLs Ko TLhP] Rt\jR Adm. jWlu]p YXlTht

Ko CVtLV] RuUV Aj UmTj\. CqYLV] LtLs TdLlThP
YXlT NXY LdLdV. Gm, X \kR LtLs
PlT]p BPu AZL UhP CR] TVuTjRXm. (TPm 10.14).
10.4.10. Nd YXlT (Sequin work Embroidery)
Nd GuT YhPYY RhP ULs. TX YLLp \eLp,
V YYeLp BPV AXeLdL AeLLp Pdu\.
C BPLs, L]lThLs BVYt\ UhPm,
LYofV] Rt\jR HtTjRm TVuTm J YLV] jW
YXlTPm. CY SLWUp CdLm, Z ZUp CdLm
BPu NUUL RdLlT\ ApX Gp SLWm, J]
Tt WLdLm J \UL RdLlT\. YdLV[u
RYd HtT Y]p \eLp WLNU] NdLs Pdu\].
NdL[ TYL BPLs, ALXuLs, TLs
Utm Q ThL[ AXeLdL TVuT\. J
X LXfNWjp SQVeLs Ndd TXL
TVuTjRlT\. RtLXjp [vd]p
RVdLlThP NdL[V TVuTj\m. CY
vTepv (spangles), TXhv (paillettes) ApX PVUuhv
(diamentes) Gum AZdLlT\. JV Lm WLNUL
GWdL X NdLs T^h^p (facets)
RVdLlTu\. Nd Gu\ TVo AWd dL Gu\
YojRk T\lThP. CRu AojRm SQVm ApX
Yh (disc). TiLu BPLp lTL RXV
AXeLdL i, LjR U\dm i, UolT
Utm Cl BV CPeLp Nd ApX SQVeLs
TPm 10.15
Yj RlTR mTju NpY Y[jR GjdLhP
uTt\lThP. CqYLV] TZeLX SP\ YYm Tt SLL BPLp
NdL[p AXeLdLm BP KWeL[ NdL[p
\NnVm LXVL TUQm APkR (TPm 10.15).
10.4.11. U YXlT (Bead work)
U YXlT GuT BLXm Rp Cu YW
BPLu NnVlThP Ut\ \lTUlL[m. ULs
VRLY TVRLY CPp [Pu Pdu\].
Cj[u YVL p NjRlTh Pu CdLUL
RdLlT\. TpY A[Ls, \eLs Utm YYeLp
ULs NkRp Pdu\]. [vd, EXLm, UWm Tu\
YqY ThL k RVdLlT\. k
LrfLdL] AXeLW EPL[ AXeLdL TVuT\.
(TPm 10.16).
134

TPm 10.16

10.4.12. UpAPl A Ald (Applique)

AXeLWjtLL Ko u Y J V RlT J LXVm.
TmTm JW J YYm UhU TVuTjRlTm. RUhl LiP CdLX
J YLV] jW YXlTPm.

Ald YYju KWeL[ Yh LL[p u Up RdLlT\.

Nhu RVp, vl RVp, TjRu YW RVp ApX Jh RVp
TVuTjRlT\.

d^d (Zig Zag) RVp ApX CVkW RVX TVuTjR Ald YYjp
YhPlThP KWeL[ CVkWju ERVp p Yj RlT Ut\
YL.

UjR (Quilt) YL Up APl Ap J UpV Tg, AlTP

Utm Ald CYtt CPp TjRlTh L RVp ApX
CVkW RVp XUL CQdLlT\.

Zp EY Up APlT (Ald) RdmT,

AlTP BrkR \jm, Ald AR
P UeV \jm CQdLlT\. \
ARuUp J
J FYdV UpV
Yj RdLlT\.

laih (Free hand) Ald LPLp PddV.

CR] Pu Tj u\m Cv NnYRu
Xm Pu CQdLXm (TPm 10.17).

TPm 10.17

10.4.13. pe (Quilting)
AXeLWjtLL, YlT EQo T\ Utm TV Es[RL Ru\ NnYRt
CWi ApX ARt UtThP L[ CQj Rdm \ pe G]lTm.
TZeLXjp LL[p NnVlTh RtT CVkWju XUL NnVlT\.
u YL, Es[ CQdm Lu A[, RVu A[ CYt\
UtYRu Xm YThP [Ls Utm Rt\jR T\ m.

Jhj L[ UtTp TVuTj phe

NnVXm.

Up APlTV (Ald) Tj phe NnVXm.

AXeLWm Hu UpTWl p UjR Tm

pe NnVXm. (TPm 10.18).

TPm 10.18

10.4.14. LiQ YXlT (Mirror work)

TpY YYeLp BPu Ut\jp LXSVjR
LiQL[ Yj RlT LiQ YXlTPm. NWm,
YW YYm Utm YhPYYm G] TX YYeLm,
135

TPm 10.19

A[Lm LiQLs, LiQ YXlThp AXeLdL TVuT\. PY,

CWdL, TYPLs Tu\ GqYL EPm LiQL[ Yj RdLXm.
LiQL[ RjR u UL[ TVuTjR AXeLdLXm. TpY YYm
Utm A[Lp Pdm Ys NlThP [vd NmL[m LiQLd
TXL AXeLdLXm. (TPm. 10.19).
10.4.15. W`@ (Crochet)
[vd UWm ApX EXLjRX] W` FdL (crochet hook) Yj
NnVlTm u]p YXVm. Lm SojV] YXLdLt\Y FLs
Utm TpY [L[ HtTjR TXYLV] fLs Es[]. ARtLt\Y
YYeLs UTm. udLlThP YXlThP DWlTj YYm U\Up
Yj Cv TPm. W`Y LPVL dm T 4 h X
LjRdLm. \ AR] Yp RVRY u]p YXlThs Nj
LfRUL dLm.
10.4.16. dj Ri (Bias Bind)
Y[Y] TL[ (E.m. Lj Y[) dj i CQj
dLlTu\. BPu Yl\ Tp iP CQj Eh\ Tp
dL Yim. UXmV Rt\m RYVp C iL[ TVuTjR
Yim.
10.4.17. TVv e (Bias tubbing)
C Lm N[LVU] \Ym. TYL 1 ALXm LiP d i
CWiPL UdLlTh BPPu TjRlT\. BPu m dLlThP
d iu ALXjR Jjdm. LjRVpL[ TVuTj CR]
NnVXm. TYL Lj Y[Ls Utm TjRu Tjm CPeLp
NnVlT\.
10.4.18. Tle (Pipings)
VdLs, LlThPLs (cuff) Lj ThPLs (collar), Y[kR mLs, CQll
T BVYtp NnVlTYRm. 3/4 ALXm Es[ NokR \m ApX NoTt\
\jiP Yh TVuTjRXm. SpX Tp Rp CQj u TV[
l u\m CQdLm. Rj jR u Th TPm. (TPm 10.20).

TPm 10.20.
136

10.4.19. Xv (lace)
TRdL EYYYeL[ LiP iP SP AUlTm. C ApX
BPu mLs CQlLs BVYt\ \ NnV TVuT\. CR]
Y[Lp TjmT dLm Yj RlTRu Xm mTp CpXR
\Y T\ m. TX \eLs, YYm Utm A[Lp Pdu\].
TjRU]R RokRj BPp CQj AZTjRXm. W` F
TVuTj SU CR] RVdLXm. Xv RVlT ULu J KnSWd
LXVm. hp RVlTY JqYum RjRuUPm AZPm [dm.
10.5. \ NnRp (Trimming)
\ NnRp GuT BPu mL[ Rj lTRm. \
NnRp YLL[Y]

AXeLW \Ls : BPu m KWeLd dVjYm Aj

AR] AZTjR Xv ApX AXeLW TjRuL[ TVuTjRlT\.
CYL[ NV] \p TVuTjRlTPUp Tu\ \Yt\ Rt\jR
Adm. CqYL \Ls TVuTPt\Y.

TVuTPV \Ls (Constructive trimming) : BPu EPp YYm,

Y[Ls Utm dV CQlLp RdLlTh dLlTu\
\L[m.

CqWi YLLm BPV \ NnV TVuT\. CYtt CPV

Es[ YtU CY TVuTjRlTm CPeL[m.
10.5.1. TpY YLV] \Ls
10.5.1. jWlu]p \Ls (Embroidered edges)
CR] dLeLs Yjm ApX dLeLs
YdLUm \ NnVXm. uTLY hPh
1 1/2 UPe mT P ALUL dLm Yj
RdLXm. LXoLs, Lu LlLv dLpXR am
T Utm BPu m Tp dLeLs
CpXUp RdLXm (TPm 10.21).

TPm 10.21

10.5.1.2. dWd (Rick-Rack)

CY XlTh CQl, UlLs Tu\ TL[
RlTRt TVuTPdV SnVlThP Y[kR
ThPL[m. NXY NnY GU. CY SW] KWm
ApX UjV TLp EsTdLm RdLlTu\.
TPm 10.22
137

10.5.1.3. g (Fringe)
U ApX FP p Li RVdLlT\. g RVdL RYV]
A[ Utm ARPu 1/4 ALUL X AhPp tdLi ARu
CVkW RVp CP Yim. \ ] LjRj AhPV ALt\ Yim.
RdLlThP ] BPu KWeLp CQdL Yim. CYt\ NhP
Tu KWeLp AXeLWjt TVuTjRXm. CWi YLV] gLs Es[].
AY NRWQ g Utm fPlThP g.
NRWQ g (Plain Fringe) : Th ApX Tj, LmT
Z ApX W` p Li J RU]]
LRjRp t\ Yim. RYlThP A[ tVPu
ARu Up Tp CVkW RVp TPYim.
rTp Es[ X Yh u LRjR j GdL
Yim. Pu RdLlTP YiV m T
TjRlTh \ CQj RdL Yim (TPm 10.23)

TPm 10.23.

fPlThP g (Tied Fringe) : iP CWhP p

LodLlThP FVd Li BPu m KWjp
Es[ kR pL[ lhP A[Lp NUUL fP
Yim. CqY lhP CPYLp fh
lTRu XUL CR] \ NnVXm. (TPm 10.24).
10.5.1.4. PNpv (Tassels)

TPm 10.24.

PNpvL[ YThP \m ApX A[PV

jWlu]p YXlTh p ApX NRWQ p Li CR] RVdLXm.
CR] RYlThP [m Utm TUp RVjd Ls[Xm. CR] RVdL
PNpv A[ EPV AhPV GjdLi ARu lTU] A[ X
t\Yim. Up]p Es[ X fhd Li r ]p Es[
X YhP Yim. fhP T] BPPu L]p RdL
Yim.
10.5.1.5. Xv YXlT (Lace work)
BPPu TpY YLLp Xv CQdLlT\. BPu mp
X^ CQdL BPu u\ mp Xv TjRlTh u Up RVp
CP Yim. X^ BPu m KWeLp STp CQl TLp
RdLXm. Y[kR KWeLp d Yj RlT \Y Rm. dLlTPR
m KWeLp Rdm T X^ Ut\L Tvv RVp Li Rj
u BPu m TV EsUj RdL Yim.

Jhj RVX TVuTj Xv Uhl YYUlL[ CQdLXm.

YqY \eLp, \kR Xp, EV] RuUm dWd Pdu\.

CR] BPu UtTWlp UVjp Yj BPV AZTjRXm.
138

10.5.1.6. Jh AXeLWm (Patch work)

ut UtThP iL[ LLs (A)
CVkWjRp CQj AXeLdL TVuTm LXVm. Cp
A[, YYm Utm iLu GidL UTm. CWi
iL[ SWL Yj CVkW RVh CQlT NRWQ
Jh AXeLWUm.
TPm 10.25

ph NnYRt TX Ad Ls CQj CVkWjp

RdLlT\.

dl ThPLs CQdLlTh RYlThP YYeLp (stagger) vPLo

YL Jh AXeLWm NnVlT\. (TPm 10.25).

10.5.1.7. TmTu (Pompon)

LmT u KWjR \ NnV LmT ]p RVdLlTTY. CWi
YhPYY AhPL[ TmTu NnV RYV] A[Lp GjdLs[
Yim. Ujk KWeLd X t\ Yim. Ujp X Su
fh u KWjR LjRdL Yim. AhPV dh RYV] YYjp
mL[ NNnVm. (TPm 10.26).
UtV YLL[ RW Y[ KWeLs TjRuLs, ThPLs, fLs,
`p m (shul edges) hWuhv (trapunts) Ye (Quaiting) Tu\ \Lm
Es[] UjRjp AXeLWeL[m, \L[m CQj BPV AZLLm,
YNV]RLm RdLXm.

TPm 10.2
10.6. W (Conclusion)
EjTYu Rt\jR UmTjRm, RjRuUV YZeLm BPV]
HRm J YLp \ NnVlTP Yim. BP YYUlT[o XTUL
LtLm Rof APm YLp AXeLjRp Utm \ Nnm \Ls
Es[]. CYt\ TVuTj RuPV NkR YYeL[ EYdL Yim.
CY TQYYn Dh RWdV Ko YVLm AU\.

139

]dLs
I.

NV] PV RokRj GL.

1.

\lT] Rt\jPu [eL ________ YYUdLlThP BPV Au\]o.

2.

A) \YL

B) AXeLdLlThP

C) \m

D) A, B

________ GuT BPu AUlXV NnVlT\.

A) LhP AXeLWm
3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

A) Pdv

B) UlLs

C) PohLs

D) dLeLs

NUCPY h C YNLp RdLlTm dLeLs

A) vUde

B) Up APl

C) CQlLs

D) `oe

CkR AXeLW YXlT ZkRLd Ht\.

A) vUde

B) UpAPl

C) jWu]p

D) \m

________ TVuT AXeLW \Lp Lf\kR

A) Up APlA

B) AfRp

C) jWlu]p YXlT

D) NmdLs

Rr YYjR RlTRt TVuTm RVp

B) LmT

C) X Pn D) GpX.

Tlep TVuTjRlTm djiu ALXm ________

A) 1

9.

C) AXeLW \

EPu YYUlt Ht\Y BPLs AUlTRtLL lhP ALXjt

J TdLjp Ul NnVlTh UTdLjp JupXUp ClT

A) Ne
8.

B) Ut\ AXeLWm

B) 3/4

C) 1 1/2

D) 1/2

________ \ NnRp LmTVp NnVlThP.

A) TmTu

B) g

C) ThP

10. ________ ]L[ \NnV TVuT\.

A) \ NnRp

B) AXeLjRp

C) ame

D) Tle
140

D) GpX

II. 2 UlTi ]dLs

1.

\ NnRp, AXeLjRp YTjL.,

2.

AXeLjRu YLLs Gu\p Gu]?

3.

AXeLdm YLL[ Y.

4.

TmTu AUdm \m ARu TVuThPm GL.

5.

\ NnRp ApX AXeLjRu SuUL[ GL.

III. 5 UlTi ]dLs

1.

\ NnRu YLL[ Y.

2.

vUde Tt l YWL.

3.

LhP AXeLWm Tt l YWL.

4.

\ NnRp dj iu TVu V?

5.

jWlu]p \Ls Utm dWd BVYt\ Y.

IV. 10 UlTi ]dLs

1.

TXRU] AXeLjRp \L[ Y.

2.

J ZkRu EPV GqY \ Nn AXeLlTn? ZkRu

EPV YYUdmT LPdL YiV Y\L[ ThVh
ERWQjPu [dL.

TpLs
1. D

2. A 3. C

4. D

5. A 6. C

141

7. C

8. C

9. A 10. A

11. BPLs EYdRd

L[ Ro NnRp
uW
NkRp TpY YiQeLm, NuLm Ls \ks[]. NV]
L[ RokRlT SpX BPL[ YYUdLm, AR] ATYd
N[LoVjR Aj, BUV UmTjRdVRLm AUm. BLVp
BP YYUlT[d Lu YL, RuU, TiLs Utm ATYu
YV Utm NVpTLs BVY jR A Lm AYVUm.
L[ RokRdmT LY]jp TX LjdL[ Ls[ Yim.
AY YV, T]m, S, RhTYlTX, BPu RY, ATYu
NVpTLs Ls NkRp Pdm RuU, Lu Nu Utm SLL
Te.
11.1 C[eZkRd Ht\ YLLs
011 UR YVs[ \kR ZkRL[ C[mZkR G] AZd\m.
AYoLPV Rp UuUV] Utm Y]. G]Y, Lt\hPs[,
DWjR EgNdV UuUV] BPL[, CYoLd Ht\Rm.
YN
Gi

TVo

Ht\
YL

lX

Tj

V NuLs
Yo \eLs (C[g
EPV AfNdLlThP Yl, Xm, UgNs,
TfN, FR, BWg)
Ul YYeLs

Tj

V AfNdLlThP
UlLs

T]h

Tj,
LmT

AfhP NuLs
lTlThP \eLs
u]XP NuLs

dLo

Tj

AfLs At\ ApX

AfhP NuLs

Yo \eLs

Tu

Tj

AfLs At\ ApX

V Af
dLPV

Yo \eLs

Ht\ Nu

Ht\ \m

Yo \eLs

11.2. \oLd Ht\ YLLs

\oLs lT]YoLs Utm YLUL Y[WdVYoLs. 111 YVs[ \oLs,
uTs TYj]o, Ts TYj]o, SX Ts TYj]o G]
142

YLlTjRlTu\]o. CYoLs WLNU] \s[ BPL[ mYo.

CYoLPV YLU] Y[of Ljp Li BrkR amLs Utm ALXU]
KWeL[PV EPLs Ht\RL LRlT\.

Y.
Gi

Ht\ YL

Ht\ / TjRU]
NuLs

TjRU]
YiQm

Nu hPo
WmTo

Tj SnR,
u]XP,
Pm

LLs, LhPeLs,
V Utm Lou
Nu / VU
Nu

YV
\eLs, W
L LXo, TfN,
Xm

T@Wd A
Xu Wd,
AmToX @Wd,
NmUo @Wd,
@[o @Wd

Tj, Nu,
YX Th,
NVtL
Ls, Pm

ih NnR SnR
Nu, LLs,
LhPeLs,
YXlT NnR
Nu

GkR \m
YiU]m

Tih, Nohv

Pm, Tj
@XiPh
YLLs

LhPeLs, TV
LLs SnR
NuLs

NhP

Pm, Tj,
@XiPh
YLLs

LhPeLs, TV
LLs, SnR
NuLs, Nu,
_VU

T Noh

Tj, u]p
BP

iPh

TVo

GkR \m
YiU]m
GkR \m
YiU]m

GkR \m
YiU]m

11.3. Y[o C[m TiLdLt\ YLLs

Y[o C[mTYm L dVU]RL LRlT\. Yo TYjk C[m
YV]WL Um TYUm. aoUuLu Ut\jRp EPp Y[of YLUL Cdm.
ClTYjp BPu Up AYoLu lTm UTm. NL YV]o EjmT
AYoLm UYo. RuPV YVRVjR SiToLs Utm lTU]YoLu
EPV Tp AV mYoLs.

143

Y.
TVo
Gi
1

Ht\ / TjRU]
NuLs

Ht\ YL

TjRU]
YiQm

Tj, Th, Nhu,

NVtL
CZ,
lXiPh Ls

ih, SnR
YXlT NnR
\m Ht\lThP
NuLs

Tj, Th, Nhu,

NVtL, CZ,
lXiP Ls,
Pm

ih, SnR
YXlT NnR
\m Ht\lThP
NuLs

GpX YLV]
\eLs

Tj, Th, Nhu,

NVtL CZ,
lXiPh Ls,
,
Pm uv,
Pl
YpYh, SLL
EP YLLs

ih, SnR
YXlT NnR
\m Ht\lThP
NuLs

GpX YLV]
\eLs

Tih, Pm, Tj,

Pl
XiPh

ih SnRp
NuLs

GpX YLV]
\eLs

NpYo,
Lv

vLoh,
oR

GpX YLV]
\eLs

11.4. C[m BiLdLt\ YL

C[m YVp BiLu Y[of Lm YLU]RL Cdm. RsThP
ALXUm Utm EVWm ALUm. AYoLPV BP Am Tim NL
YV]Pu Nok U\. AYoLd jR SLoLs Tp U\. G]Y
RtLX BP YYUlp C[m YV]d BPVl TtV BoYjt
AjR[UL AU\.
11.5. BiLdLt\ YL
UoLhp Es[ YLL[ Tkm, AYoLu TV Tjm
BiLu EPLs YT\. 21 YVd UtThPYoL[ BiLs G]
AZd\m. C[U TYm, SjRW TYm, U TYm G] d\m. U
TYjp TmTm UuUV] V m\oLs Utm YV
\jRm Nu ApXR L[V mu\]o.

144

Y.
Gi.

TVo

Ht\ / TjRU]
NuLs

Ht\ YL

TjRU]
YiQm

NhP

Tj, Pm,
lXiP Ls

LLs, LhPeLs, GpX

AlvhWdh
\eLm

T-Noh

Tj, u]XP,
lXiPh
u]XP

u]XP Nu, GpX

ihv
\U]m

Nohv,
ToPv

Tj, u]XP,
lXiPh
u]XP

LhPeLs, LLs

Tih

Pm, Tj BP, SnVlThP

XiP YL NuLs

1
2

GkR
\U]m
GkR
\U]m

11.6. TiLdLt\ YLLs

TiLdL] BPLs SLL Y[of]m, TWmTVj]m u]
Y\. UoLhp TpY RU] YiQeLm TXYLV] Ls \k
Es[] SLL Y[ofdLL UhUpXUp, TiLu EPXUlT Tjm,
AYoLu TV Tjm YU]jR U]p Lim AYoLu BPLs
YYUdLlT\.
Y.Gi.

TVo

Ht\ YL

PY,
TYP

Tj, XiPh
Udv,
avLh Ls

[v

CW
BPLs

Tj, Nhu

Ht\ / TjRU]
Nu

TjRU]
YiQm

[u (R\m)

GkR LXo
YiU]m
YiU]p

, AlvhWdh
VUhd

GkR LXo
YiU]p
YiU]m

Tj, Th
SnRY, YXlT NXd Ht\
XiPh Ls NnRY, ihv
\m
Tj, XiPh u]XP, V
GkR \m
Ls
YiU]m
YiU]m
NuLPu

11.7. lhP BPLd RYV] A[

V YeYRt LPd NpYRt u]p BPd RYV] u
[m, ALXm, \ Tu\Yt\ AkjRp AYVUm. CRu Xm BPd
RYV] u A[Y LQdRp GR\. LPdLWu BXN]uT
V ALULY \YLY YeL YiV RoUNeLP XV RodLXm.
BPdL] UV YWm Tm, YhmTm HtTPdV U]
E[fNX \dm.
Z LdLlThP AhPYQp Sm TYL TVuTjm BPLd
RYV] u A[ LdLlThs[. CkR AhPYQ 36 ALXs[
d Ht\tTp YYUdLlThs[. J Y[ ALXm 42 ApX 60
CdU]p RYlTm u A[Y 2030 N. \jd Ls[Xm.
145

t.
v

Mil
bga

y rkaf njitgL J ms
xU gf oir

nfhLf

bga nfhLf

#yh

l + 4"

ngo
(3taJ)

ngo s + 6"

ngo s + 6"

ngo s + 6"

f (ouha)

ouha s + 6"
(0.4)

ouha s + 6"
(0.4) + 2"

ouha s + 6"
(0.4) + 4"

nuhg

1 l

1 l

1 l + 0.25

~uh

a)

is ~uh
(if fhy
mwJ)

~uh s + 5"
(m) 1 l

~uh s + 5"
(m) 1 l

~uh s + 5" (m)

1 l

b)

A iy
~uh
(fhy + if)

~uh s + if
s + 6" (m) 1.25
l

~uh s + if
s + 6" (m) 1.25
l + 0.25

~uh s + if
s + 6" (m) 1.25
l + 0.50

c)

nfjL ~uh
(fhy + ~g
if)

~uh s
UklF + if
s + 9" (m) 2

~uh s
UklF + if
s + 9" (m) 2
l + 0.25

~uh s
UklF + if
s + 9" (m) 2 l
+ 0.50

is rh
f

f s
UklF + 6"

f s
UklF + 6"

f s
UklF + 6"

nfjL f

f s
UklF + 6"+ 4"

f s
UklF + 6" + 4"

f s
UklF + 6" + 4"

L f

f s + 3
klF + 6" + 4"

f s + 3
klF + 6" + 4"

f s + 3
klF + 6" + 4"

~ f

f s
UklF + 6"

f s
UklF + 6"

f s
UklF + 6"

s
(34-36")

KJF s +
if s + 10"

KJF s+ if
s+10"+0.20

(30-32")

KJF s +
if s + 5"

KJF s+ if
s+5"+ 0.20

KJF s+ if
s+5"+0.25

(38-40")

KJF s
UklF + if
s + 3"

KJF s
UklF + if s
+ 3" + 0.30

KJF s
UklF + if
s + 3" + 0.50

f (4-8
taJ)

146

KJF s +
if s + 10" + 0.25

t.
v

Mil
bga

y rkaf njitgL J ms
xU gf oir

nfhLf

bga nfhLf

rth

s UklF +
10" (m) 3 l

s UklF +
10" (m) 3 l +
0.25

s UklF + 10"
(m) 3 l + 0.25

s UklF +
10" (2l) + 0.5

s UklF +
10" (2l) + 0.5

s UklF + 10"
(2l) + 0.5

10

A nfh

Mil s
UklF + if
s + 12"+0.5

Mil s
UklF + if
s + 12" + 0.5

Mil s
UklF + if
s + 12"+ 0.5

11

Tih

Tih [jp 2
UPe+Cl ThP
ALXm (4) + 6

Tih [jp 2
UPe+Cl ThP
ALXm (4) + 6

Tih [jp 2
UPe+Cl ThP
ALXm (4) + 6

12

ril

a)

yh ril
(6 taJ)

ril s + 6" +
if s+0.25

ril s + 6" +
if s+0.25

ril s + 6" +
if s+0.50

b)

KG ril
(6 taJ)

s UklF+ 8"

s UklF+ 8"

s UklF+ 8"

c)

T-r

KG s
UklF + if
s + 4"+0.25

KG s
UklF + if
s + 4"+0.25

KG s UklF
+ if s +
4"+0.50

13

Fjh (6taJ)

Fjh s +
2"+0.30

Fjh s +
2"+0.30

Fjh s +
2"+0.50

17.

dLo

dLo Xm + 6 dLo Xm + 6
147

dLo Xm + 6

11.8 BPV EYdRp

BPV EYdRp GuT \U, ATYm, kR Tt Utm U]UokR
lTdL J Eu]R LX Bm. JYo UYL TlTVL BPLs im,
im Rjl Toj Rk Li LfRU] TkRdV BPL[
EYdL Yim.
11.8.1. BPV EYdR
p uTt\ YiV TLs

BPV EYdRp Es[ L dVU] TLs uYY] (TY]Y)

A]j ULm YhPlThs[]Y G] NTodLm.

UL[ Uj TjWlTjRm.

RdmT UhU UL[ j TVuTjRm

RlTRt u ShfNv (Notches) NTodLm.

Y[LLs JeLL RdLlThd\R G] NTodLm.

RVd RYlTm A]j ETLWQeL[ NLjd LiP \ RdL
RPeLm.

E.m. LXd (LjThP) YiV Xe

\lLdL] LLs AXeLdL XvLs, AldLs
RlTRt TVuTm X NTodLm. BPu \m CWit
UmThkRp, AjRU] \ X Ro NnVm.
TuLp TjRU] \jp ] t\m.
RVp CVkWjt GiQn h J TZV ] TVuTj Yj
TodLm.
CVkWjp LU] NVpTh] NTodLm.
CVkWj] jRUL PdLm. lTL Tu Utm V SLojm
TtLs (feed back)
11.8.2. BPu UpTV Rdm T LPdL YiV TLs
Lj Y[ Tp Rs TLeL[ CQdLm.
TdL CQlT CQjd Ls[m.
\l TLjR (placket) jd Ls[m.
Lj Y[Y dLm.
L Tu TdL CQlT CQdLm.
u Utm u T LTLeL[ NToj EPpTLjPu CQdLm.
KWeL[ Rj dLm.
\l LL[ RdLm.
Su Cv CPm.
Up PohLs YWklu AR] Rp RdLm (TPm 11.1).

148

PohL[ dLm

PohL[ RdLm

TdLeL[ CQdLm
RsL[ CQdLm

Lj Y[Pu d
iP CQdLm

\l TLjR RdLm

d RiP l
am NnVm

Lj TV Rj dLm

149

LTu TdLeL[ RdLm

L TV
CQdLm

rTV am NnVm

TPm 11.1
11.8.3. BPu r TV Rdm TR LPdL YiV TLs
(TYP EY YYU)

PohL[ RdLm

\l TLjR RdLm

TdL CQlL[ CQdLm

Cl ThPV CQdLm

\l LV RdLm

Cv NnVm

u\ \l TLjR RdLm

Vd TV u\m CQdLm (TPm 11.2)

150

PohL[ dLm

PohL[ RdLm

VdL CQdLm
(Vd TYPd Uhm)

u\UL l
UpRVp TPm

\l TLjR CQdLm
\l LV Tjm
CPeL[ dLm

\l LL[
RdLm
Cl ThV CQdLm

TPm 11. 2
151

11.8.4. NhP EYdm \

NhPu TLs

uTdL U

uTdL U

Vd U

LXo ThP U

NhP T U

11.8.4.1. u\m VdL CQdm \

NhPu uTj i Utm Vd Tp UjV ShL[ dLm.

NhPu uTj iu u TdLm u TdLm VdL[ TjRm.

]k RVX TPm.

u VdL l Up RVPm.

u Utm u Rs CQlL[ CQdLm.

Lj Y[p LXW NhP EYdLjp Ljs[T CQdLm.

11.8.4.2. NhP LXo Rdm \

LXo CWi TL[ LiP : (1) LXo ThP (2) LXo i

CY CWim CQkRtTp UV RVdLm.

TYL LXoLs Tnji CQj \ NnVlT\. (Interfacing)

TnjiLs eLUp ClTRtLL AR RXV Yj

TU]lTjR Yim.

Tnjiu J TV LXu rTdLjp Pd NnVm. u LXu

Ut\ TVm CQj u\m RdLm.

CQll Tu KWeLp ALlTVL Es[ V dh LXW

uTdLm lTm.

LXu Yl\ ]k h YUL Up RVp TPm.

LXo ThPu Es Utm YlTu u UVlT Utm u UVlT

L[ LXo TkU CQll Tp Yj RdLm.

152

VdL[ CQjRp

Tnji Yj LXW jRp

LXW NhPPu CQjRp

LXW l Up RV-Rp

LL[ CQjRp

TdLYh CQlT jRp

TPm 11.3
153

LXo ThPu Es TV NhPu Lj Y[Pu Pd Nn RdLm.

UpThPu CQll TV Uj, CQld LhPu Pd NnVm.

u LXo ThPV t Up RVPm.

LPV KWeL[ dLm.

LL[ NhPPu CQdLm.

Lk NhPu CQll T YW TdLYhp RdLm.

NhPu amU \ NnVm.

TjRuLs Utm TjRu YWeLs AUj NhPV UdLm (TPm 11.3).

11.9. RVdL] lLs

1.

CQl T A]jtm C RVpLs CP Yim. Cq RVpLs,

CQlj RVpLs Gp VUp CdL ER Nnm.

2.

Rs CQlT RdmT, L Y[p Ck BWmj Lj

Y[p j l CWiPY RVX CQl Lhk XLRY
TPm.

3.

GpX SW] CQlLm JeL] SoLhp CdL Yim.

CpXVu\p BP RjRu \ JeLL AUV.

4.

TnjiP (Facing) TVuTjm T AR] U_ Yj

dLpXUp RdLm.

5.

dLeLs AUdm T TV RVpL[ TVuTjRm. CRt X

C dm RLhP R[oj CYNp RVPm. J YN
CQld Lhm, Ut\u CQld Lht 0.56 N. UXLm.
UX Es[ X J LhPp tdLi Tu X RYV] A[t
CdLm. p YhlTPUp ClTRt V UuUVL dLm.

6.

dLeLs JW A[PVRL ClTRtLLm, CPjR h SYUp

ClTRtLLm RdmT dLeLs UX CdU RdLm.

7.

NhP TL[ RdmT, UlL[ Rdm Tm E RuUd

KWeLp C RVp CPm.

8.

Xv ApX WTp CQdm T KWeLp dLm Yj RdLm.

9.

So CQlT RlT TXY Y[kR CQlTm KWeLp ShLs

Yj RlTRu Xm A WL AUV ERm. RVtLWo jV TVuTj
Y[L[ WL AUdLXm.

10. dji (Bias) RdmT RVX R[oj YdLm. C p

CTPUp CdL ERm. dj iP Rdm T ARu KWeL[
CdLdP. AqY HtTu AqYWeLs WkRWUL im. J
So]p djiP CQdmT dj iP rTp
Yj CQdLm.
154

11.

am NnmT TYPu r KWm SWL CdU LYdLm. Y[

KWeLs ameL Tdm. Y[Lp V amUeLs TVuTjY
XTUL UdL ERm. ALXU] amL[ Z Ljs[ lLsT
NnVXm.

i)

A Xu BPLs ApX TYPLp, TdLYh CQl LL[

YhYRt uT amU RVdL Yim. CR]p TdL CQlu

NnPu am \lTL Tkm.
ii)

ALlTV] p dLm HtTPUp CdL amU dLeLPu

RdLm. CkR dLlhP am dj iPu (Bias tape) CQdLlTh
u Pu am NnVlT\.

iii)

am ]Lp W] CPYp LX] PWhLs RdLXm. CR]

dj iPu CQj, Pu am NnVXm.

W
ClTPlTV] TYL ETVdLlTm EPLdj RYV] L[
LQdh YeLm, AlTP RVp jWeL[m Ak Ls[ ER\.
ClTPlp TpY TL[ LtTR]p, JYo SLLl TetLpXUp,
RuPV RjRuUV YlTjm YLp LYofVLm CUVLm
BPV YYUdLdV Ru]mdLV TYo.

]dLs
I. LhP CPjR WlL
1.

_______ p TjRU] \jp X t\m.

2.

C RVpL[ CQlj RVpLs _______CdL ERNnm

3.

_______ AUdmT, TV RVpL[ TVuTjRm.

4.

_______ ApX _______ CQdm T KWeLp ShLs Yj

RlTRu Xm A WL AUm.

5.

So CQlT RlT TXY _______m KWeLp ShLs Yj

RlTRu Xm A WL AUm.

6.

_______Rdm T RVX _______RjRp p CTPUp CdL

ERm.

7.

_______ NnmT TYPu r KWm SWL CdU LYdLm.

H]u\p Y[ KWeLs CR Tdm.

8.

TYL LXoLs _______ CQj \ NnVlT\.

155

9.

LXu Yl\ ]k h, YUL _______ TPm.

10. _______Utm _______ Rs CQlL[ CQdLm.

11. NhPu u Tj iu _______, _______ VdL[ TjRm.
12. LXu CWi TLs _______, _______
13. YYUjRp GuT J AZL] LXVm.
14. TYL LXoLs _______CQj \ NnVlT\.
15. _______ Utm AUj _______NhPV dLm.
16. am ]Lp W] CPYp LX] _______ RdLXm.
II. dLU] PV
1.

LXu C TLs VY?

2.

Tnji Gu\p Gu]?

3.

ame GqY NnVlT\?

4.

ShNv GqY NnVlT\?

5.

dRp Gu\p Gu]?

6.

UpNhPu TLeL[ GL.

7.

TYP RlTp Es[ TLs VY?

8.

RVdL] lLs HRm 2 GL.

9.

BPV RdL RVp CVkWjR GqY RVoTjYn?

10. BP YYUlT Y.
11.

BP YYUlTp Es[ TL[ YdLm.

12. RlTRt u RVp CVkWju GlTLeL[ jRm NnYn?

III. YL PV
1.

BP YYUlTu TLs VY?

2.

UpNhP RlTp Es[ TLs VY?

3.

NhPu uTp VdL GqY CQlTn?

IV. YL YdLm
1.

NhP LXo YYUj Rdm \V Y.

2.

RVdL] lL[ Y.
156

3.

TYPV Rdm \] Y.

4.

BP YYUlTu TLs VY?

5.

BiLdL] NhP YYUl] Y.

Tp
1. Tu

2. Gp Vm

3. dLeLs

4. Xv/Wpv
7. am

5. Y[kR CQl
8. TnjRi

6. dji / R[oj
9. Up RVp

10. u/u

11. uTdLm/uTdLm

12. LXoThP, LXo i

13. BP

14. Tnji

15. TjRuLs, TjRu YWeLs

16. PohLs

157

T - III

12. BVjR BP, RVXP Utm

hp RdLlThP BPLs
uW
RtT Ut\m Tts[ YrdL \p, mT SToLs JqYYm
RtT SP\p Es[ EPL[V ALUL AYoL[ AXUp
LilTo. AZLL EP AYRm, AYoL[ YrdL RWm Tt Ut\YoLd
Adm Rjm SPk LsYo. Cu\V AYNWU] YrdL \p,
L[ Rj YeY GuT Lm WUU]. Sm LPLd Nu V
Ye, RVpLWW S, V RlTRt Lj, BP RVWm YW LjdL
YiV AYVU\. CkR WfN]V RodL, BVjR BPV YeYRt
Ut\ Ju Es[. A]j YTYeLdm mT SToLs Wj Tt\
TV LPLp BVjR BPLs YeYR mYo. A]j YV]dm
AL A[p BVjR BPLs Pdu\]. BPLPu V QThLm,
BPLd TjRU]YLm Pdu\].
12.1. BVjR BPLs
TpY YV]d, YThP \dLXYLp, RtTRV vPp, ihp,
TpY YTYeLd Ht\tTp, RxQ Xd HtT LPLp EP]VL
PdLdV BPL[. BVjR BPLs Gu AZdLlTu\].
BVjR BPLu tT]V[oLs Z YTYoLs

u] LsRp tT]V[oLs
pXW VTWd LPLp
PLf Nu tTYoLs

RWU] `mLp
A[X] ThdLs

TY] EPp A[YLp BVjR BPLs rYTYoLd Pdm

\kR ZkR
uTs \oLs
Y[[m TYj]o

ZkRLs
Ts NpTYoLs
YV okRo

JqY YV]dm PdLdV BPLu A[Ls rYY]

V A[
TV A[
LlTV A[
Yo, Vo, BPYo, TiLs BVd TpY TVuTht BVjR
BPLs rYU YLlTjRlTh LPLp Pdu\].

NRWQU] AVdV]
GlTRY AVdV]

\l ZdLX ShLd AVdV]

E\emT AVdV]
158

CY RW, BVjR BPLs \lT] LrLd Gum

rYY]Ytd Pdu\].

[VhtL] EP

fNp EP

LWjR EP

SP] EP

SPTt Utm _e EP

UQlTitL] EP

BVjR BPL[ Ro NnYRu LWQeLs

NTjV vPpLs

RtTRV SLL Te
jRU] NuLs

WdL Ydm iLs

TpY YiQeLs

ALlTV] YiQdLXY

SojV] AZL] SN ULs

LXQo dL \Ls

TpY \jRt\ RuU

Ut AUj AVdV BPLs

dv, Uhf vPpLs

A]j YV]dm Ht\ TYLX BPLs AY.

oLX EPLs
YtLX EPLs

A]j TYLXjtm Ht\ EPLs

A]j YU] ]dm BVjR BPLs Pdu\]. JYW

RYdLt\ XLp BPLs Es[]. \Y] Xp JYo EP YeL
Yim G] GikRp, AYW Th_ht Ht\Y RokRdLXm.
RWdhThP EPL[ YeL ]jRp, NkRLu ARu RWjt HtT
Ap lhs[ X] HtdLs[ Yim.
BVjR BPLs YemT U]p Ls[ YiV LjdLs
JYo BVjR BP YeYRt uTL, Gu] YeL Yim? Ge YeL
Yim? GqY[ YeL Yim Utm ARtL] Th_h Jd Tt Su
kjR u YeL tTP Yim. rYm lL[ U]p YjdLi
BVjR BPL[ YeL Yim.
159

SmTLU] LP
Lrfd Ht\Y
Th_hts
NV] A[ / TjRm
YiQm
jRU] Nu
RtTRV vPp ih
RxQ Xd HtT
TU] YXlT
\m j CdL Yim
HtdLs[dV vPp
NXY Nn TWUjRdL] AWLs / lfh RLYpLs
l AdLdV.

RtT A]j LPLm tT]V[oLs tT]V ALdL

dL[ LPd\oLs. AY uYU

RsT
AuTl TLs AjRp / T lTuLs
Cu Ye, S[ TQj] LhPXm.
Ju Ye]p, CWiP, u\ Gjd Ls[Xm.
J lhP RLV P ALUL Yem T T]v TihLs.
Cu\V Xp UdLs RLp ASLU]o, tT]p dV Te
Ydm VdLu LYofLWU] [mTWeL[p LYokdLlTh, ThL[
YeLj iPlT\oLs.
JYo BVjRBPLs YemT RlThPYu TiL[ LY]jp
Ls[ Yim.

YV
Rp
T[RW X
SP\ YrdL
BU
VLsL (Self concept)

JYW YeYRt GiQ Ydm E[Vp LWLs uYY]

iRp
U]lTuU

EsQo
TjRRp

160

EtTjV[o Utm YLoLs RY NnV CPm LdLUp, JqYYm

uYm lL[ uTtU AjRlT\oLs. lQoY SdL
YiVY

\kR A[p LjRp ApX RWUt\R LjRp

Xp HUtRp

\Ts[ ThL[ tT] NnRp

RY\] YLhRp Utm \T\R lfhLs Utm lL[

Lis[Yt\ NVL LYdL Yim.

BVjR BPL]p HtTm SuULs, ULs

SuULs

EP]VL Pd\.

vPp Utm p TpY YLLs

YqY RhTYlTX Utm LrfLd RY HtTmT BPL[

Yed Ls[Xm.

RVpLWo Utm hp RdLlTm BPL[ EYdm SWm

NdLlT\.

RtT SP\p Es[ SLLlTe Tt Rk Ls[Xm.

RWd Es[ ThL[, ClTR Ak Yed Ls[Xm.

lfh AWLs LiP GV TWUl BPLs.

TjRUL Es[R Gu BPV YeTYo Ak TodL \.

\TLs

NV] A[] AkjRp AYVm

YeTYu WN]V YlTjm.

X NUVeLp NVL Tkm BPLs PlTpX.

RVtLWPm RjRp Utm hp RdLlTm EPV P X ALU].

RWUt\ RV]p J X BVjR BPLs j EZlTpX.

12.2. RVtLWo EYdV BPLs

JYW RYV Nok RVtLWu ERPu EYdLlThP BPLs
RVpLWo EYdV BPLs Gu AZdLlTu\].
RVp LXOo GuTYo BP RVjRp, TL[ NNnRp, YYjR
NVdRp BVYt\ RXL NnTYo BYo. J \UdL RVp LXOo
NRWQ k GUV] BPV YYUlTo. AYo Ttu Xm
161

kR AZPm, RWdLRLm BPL[ EYdYp YpXYWYo. J

RVpLXOo Su u] \UV[WL B] u GpX rXdm Ht\ L
AZL] YYUlT LiP BPLs Utm ALXuL[ YYUd\o.
RVp RX GuTYo ReLs hXV ApX RdL] A\X
SWU ApX T SWU YX NnVXm.
RVp R
u YLLs
RVp Rp Y[ofVPkR TXY TpY RVp YLLm
Rus[]. AY

Eso RVtRp

WRN RVtRp

TVdm RVtRp

Eso RVtRp
Eso RVtRp Gu\ TVdLtT CqYL]o Esp Es[ UdLu
BP RYL[ oj NnTYo. CqYL RVtLWo R] Rp \Ud
HtT A[YjRp, RjRp Utm URpL[ Nn EPpYYm Utm
A[LdLt\Y BPL[ RVd\oLs. Eso RVtLXOoLd
`mLs Esp Cdm. CqYL Lm TWmTVm dL Rt YLVm.
WRN RVtRp
Eso RVt LXOW j YPjp Es[ RVtLXOPm BP
YYUlTRtLL JlTkRm HtTjY. CRu Xm BP YYUlTRtL]
RL \YL AUm. CqYLV] Rp SP\ RtT EXL A[p
e YL YlNhLs Xm SPTu\]. Eso RVtLWPm Es[ YNTp
ApX CqYLp YdLV[W ReL[ A[Ls Utm EPRo BVYt\
UtLs[ Yim. CYtp HRm URpLs RYlTu EPV Al
NNn Ls[ Yim. RtLXjp WRN RVtRp ]Od Bu
Xu Ko \lT] YVL AUks[.
TVdm RVtRp LXOo
TVdm RVtRp GuT Eso RVp Rp Utm WRN RVp
Ru LXYVL LRlT\. TYL CqYL RVtRp lhP
CPm Gu CpXUp TpY CPeLd Nu RU YdLV[dL] NYV
\ Nnu\]o. Lm \Y] YU]jR TtdLi YdLV[u
NkluT AYo Rm AeL A[L[ GjdLi RmPm Es[
UL[ Lij JlTkRm HtTjd Lsu\]o. YdV[u JlTkRlT
BPV RVjRu AR] RTp ApX Vo XUL Al Ydu\]o.
Cm\u SuU Gu]Yp Ko RVtLXOo AYoRm YdLV[W Sp
Nkj AYu RYV \kR Vl TtdLi \YL NnV \.

162

BPL[ hX ApX RVtLXOo ERP] \lTL EYdL

m. RVpLXOo EYdVR ApX hp RdLlThP BPL[
mTSToLs mThPp BVjR BPL[ LPLp Ck RYlTm
SWm lTjt HtT YedLs[Xm.
RVpLXOo RVjR BPL]p HtTm SuU, ULs
SuULs

dL]U]
EPXUl TjRUL AUkdm.

JlTt\ vPp RokRdL ER\.

hp AUdLlThP BPV P SWm \YLY RYlTm.

\TLs

RVp LXOWf Nok CdL YiV X.

NVL EPdl TkRU.

BVjR BPL[ P RlTRt AL SWm Gd\.

RWdL \Y BPLp T\YpX.

BVjR BPLPu JlmT vPpLs L \.

X dL.

12.3. hp EYdLlTm BPLs

hp BPLs Lf \lTL EYdLlT\. SUd Utm mT
El]oLdj RYlTm SWjp RlTYW \uLs Utm BoYjR
YlTjYR hp EYdLlTm BPLs Bm.
mTjp Es[ El]oLs kR BoYjPm, \U dLYoL[L BP
EYdLjp DTm T BPL[ hXV YtLWUL RVdL m.
SuULs

dL]U]

\l dL \U Utm DT RYlT\.
\Wf Nok CdL YiV AYVpX.

JlTt\ vPX EYdL ERm.

AL SWjR Gjd LiPm BP TkYp lVm

N[LoVjRm HtTj\.

RVp CVkWeLs Utm \ Nnm CVkWeLs BVYtu ClTd

Li RWU] BPL[ EYdL m.

V NuL[ EYdLj iRp

TU]j \U Utm \uLs BP EYdLjt RYlT\.

163

TX \V] EYdLj]p HtTm Ttu Xm Bt\Xl Tdd

Ls[ \.
Lf NokR Nu EYdLj]p Nn\ GUVhP.

RtTRV @TNu Utm vPpL[ AV\.

\TLs

AL SWm RYlT\.

\l dLj \U Utm \u RYlT\.

BVjR BPLd CQV] UuU PlT L]m

Lu YLLs Utm vPpLs Tt TV A CkRp UhU

\lTLf NVpTP m.
]dLs

I.

LhP CPjR WlL.

1.

A]j YTYeLdm mT SToLs Wj Tt\ ________TV LPLp

YeYR mYo.

2.

3.

A) RVp LXOo RVjR

B) hp RVjR

C) BVjR BP

D) UtV Gm CpX.

BPV YAUlTl Toj Ro NnRu ARu ________ Utm

________ I NTodL Yim.
A) Nu Utm TjRm

B) YiQm Utm TjRm

C) \jRt\ RuU Utm TjRm

D) TjRm Utm X

LoYo VdLu LYofLWU] ________ Xm LYWlTh TeL YeL

iPlT\oLs.
A) tT]

4.

B) [mTWeLs

C) Wv

D) V

________ GuT TYL RVp Xm YU]m TTYW AZd\m.

A) RVtLXOo

B) RofV[o

C) YYUlT[o D) VT.

II. 2 UlTi ]dLs

1.

BVjR BP, RVtLWo EYdV BP, hp RVdLlThP BPL[

[d.

2.

BVjR BPLu SuUL[ ThVL.

3.

hp RVdLlThP BPLu TVuLs GY?

4.

BVjR BPLs YemT Ljp Ls[ YiV lL[ ThV.

164

5.

Ls YemT Sm NkdLdV RY\] VTW SPYdLL[ GL.

6.

RVtLXOo GuTYo Vo?

III. 5 UlTi ]dLs

1.

hp RVdLlThP BPdm, RVtLXOo RVjR BPdm Es[

YTL[ G.

2.

BVjR BPLs YeYRu SdLjR Y.

3.

RVpRp YL[ [dL.

IV. 10 UlTi ]dLs

1.

Cu\V Xp BVjR BPLs Ydm Te] [dL.

2.

hp RVdLlThP BPLs BVjR BPLs Ut\m RVtLWo RjR

BPL[ P \kRRL Es[ Hu?

3.

RVtLWo RjR BPLs [dL.

165

13. BPL[ TLjRp Utm TWUjRp

ALm
J BP \VL TLdLlTmT iP LXjt EZdm RuU
LiP. TVuTjRlTm LXjp LiLd SpXR Rt\jR Adm.
TLjRp GuT 3 XlThL[ EPV. jRm NnRp, jQo
HtTjRp Utm TLjRp, jRm NnRp GuT TYL TLjRp Utm
jQo HtTjRXP RphT \ Utm EhTjRlThP NVpTL[
LiP. NXY NnRp Utm EXo NXY GuTY C dV jRm Nnm
\L[m. NXY NnRp GuT LLs ApX CVkWjRp NnVlT\.
CWi NVpTLm Rio YlTX, TVuTjRlTm NXYj u RuU,
LWL[ TdL TVuTjRlTu\ s, L[ Rip F\ Ydm SWm
Utm Ydm SWm, Lp Es[ DWm ALtm \ Utm RYV]
Cv AjRm Ldm \ BVYLp YTLs Es[].
13.1. NXY NnRp
NXY NnRp GuT J YLV] jRlTjm \Vm. Rio Utm
J YL Nl / Nljs TVuTjRlT\. jRm, LRWm Utm BWdVm
BVYtu CuVUVR TVL NXY NnRp [e\.
13.1.1. NXY NnR
u LsLLs Utm TVuTjRp
hp NXY NnRp GuT J LX. ARt NV] hTjR Ltd Ls[
TU Utm Tt RY. L[ NXY NnYp CWi NVpTLs
Es[]. p Es[ AdL ALtm NVpT Utm NXYdlu V
TX jRU] Rt\jR TYRtL] NVpT.
Lp AdLL TY] uYU dLlThs[].
1. XN] Ad Up TklT.
2. WkRWU] Ad GiQn TNVp (grease) p Jh Cdm.
F\YjRp, Wx Li RnjRp Utm AdL dRp Tu\ CVdLeLs
Xm XN] Ad dLlT\. EhWjRp ApX GUpdLhPo (Emulsificator)
NXY NnRp Utm EXo NXY XUL WkRWU] Ad ALt\lT\. AdL
ALtYp Nl dV Te Yd\. AdL ALtYp Nl o s
GkR A[t F Np\ GuTR Tj AU\. BLY jRlTjm
NVpThp CuVUVR l Gu]Yp Ad ALt\lTY GiQn
TNV LWdLdV ApX EgNdV RuUPu AdL ALtYRt
EV] AL AjRjR TVuTjR Yim.

166

13.1.1.A. Lp AdL ALt\ TpY \Lp Ajm N

TVuTjRlT\
Y.Gi. NXY Nnm \ NVpT
1.

TVu

NXYp EWnRX
TVuTjRp
LL[p EWnY
1. V F\ YjR p Ck
HtTjRp
k GdLm.
2. AL Ad Es[ TLp
Nl TPm. u J
TV Yj Ad Es[
Tp Su\L Ad em
YW RndL Yim.

ALUL
Ads[ Tj
Utm ]u
Ld Ht\

3. YYlT] p Nl
eU AX GdL Yim.
Rndm Wx
Li EWnRX
TVuTjRp

1. F\ YjR V p Ck
YV GdLm.
2. NUU] RW Tp TWl,
Aj NlT Li
RndLm.

NWNWlT]
EV] AL
A d s [
Ld Ht\.

3. u A]j TLm
Su\L RndLm.
4. YYlT] p Nl
eU AX GdLm.
2

XN] AjR N
Nj NXY NnRp
Rnj, LNd k 1. WPu V (100-110oF)
YlTXp
Lu
NXY NnRp
GidLd
Ht\Y
RiW RVoTjRm.
2. Nl p Ad V
Rnj LNd Vm. AL
Ad
Es[
TV
Es[eLp Yj ALU]
Nl Li LNd, Ad
eU NnV Yim.
3. Nl ALm YW Su AXN
Yim.
167

EWnRp TVuTjR
VR
UuUV]
L[] LmT,
WVu Utm
YiQj
Ld CkR
NXY \ Ht\

13.1.1.B. LVp NXY NnYRt TY] Nn\

ASLU] Ls Cu CVkWju XUL ApX EXoNXY XUL jRm
NnVlThPm, LL[p NXY NnY GuT dVU]RL LRlTh
NnVlT\. GV NXYLd Uhm Cu lhP X L[] Th,
u]lThP LmT EPLs, LXlpXR Ls Utm YiQNVju Xl
RuU Tt AkWR T LL[p NXY NnVlT\.
LL[p NXY NnmT uTt\ YiV lLs

ALUL AdLYRt u NXY NnV Yim.

Lp sLs, NpLs Utm KhPLs Es[]Y G] YUL Njl

TodL Yim.

kR T ApX KhPL[ Rj NNnVm. sL[ p TVuTj

j YdLm. AlTRu NXY NnmT LY]UL NnV m.

NXY NnV VR ThLs HRY EPp CkRp AR] ALt\

Yim.

UuUV] Ld AL LWjRuU CpXR Nl] TVuTjR

Yim.

13.1.2. NXY CVkWjR TVuTj NXY NnRp

Cu TmTX] NXYLs RVe NXY CVkWm XUL NXY
NnVlTu\]. YdLV[oLs RVe NXY CVkWjR Ro
NnmT rYm LjdL[ U]p Ls[ Yim.

mTju A[Y Tj, NXYj Lu A[m Cdm.

CVkWjR hp YlTRtL] CPm

\kR C YThP YLeLp YqY Ld TVuTjYRt.

Rid u YlTXLs

W WlT SWdLhThP P AjRdLhT dVm.

\kR A[ L[ NXY NnV VRL CdL Yim.

uNW TVuT RUL CdL Yim.

RVe NXY CVkWm TVuTjRlTm T LY]UL uTt\lTP

YiV u]fNdLLs

Rio WlTl TVuTm Pl TRLUp CdL, NXY CVkWm TVuThp

CpXUp CdmT Rio Ym ZV jP Yim.

Lu TdLhLp Es[ ThL[ NXYd u GjP Yim.

NXY CVkWm ETVLjp CdmT LL[ CVkWjts TPdP.

168

NXY CVkWjp L AL A[ L[ NXYdl TPdP. Lu

A[Y NUULl j NXY CVkWjp TPYim. CVkWm
e]X, AokRX ApX NjRm YU CkRX, EP]VL j
Pm.

uYY] TY] Nn\Ls

NXY CVkWjR TVuTjYRt uTL RVlT[oLu lL[
Su Tj Ak Ls[ YiV Lm dVm.

WlTlTPYiV A[ YW NXY CVkWjp YYlT] RiW

WlT Yim. NXY s ApX WY NlT NodL Yim.

ALU] Ad Es[ BPL[ NXY CVkWjp TYRt u NlT

TVuTj RnjPm.

L[ Ys[, \PVY Utm Lm UuUV]Y G]

YLlTjRm.

NXY CVkWju Ls[[t Ht\Y L[ WlT Yim.

NXY CVkWju Zt, YlTX, YYlT] W ApX P] W,

SWm, NXYd CVkWm CVdm TjRu BVYt\ NVL AUjd
Ls[ Yim.

NXY kRPu BPL[ CVkWjp Ck YV GjPm.

V JX ApX ZX L[ EXojR Yim.

13.1.3. L[ YdY]
L[ UuUVd, TRdLfNn, LNeLLUp Yj Cv CRX
XTUdY L[ YdYRu dLs Bm. URu RVjR Lp
TVuTjmT uNWm dL]lTjRlT\.
TpY YdY] NkRp CkRm, ASLU]Y WY Xp
Pdu\]. V AXm C p LXdL Yim GuT J YL. B]p
Ut\ YLp NlPu p YdY]Yt\ NodLXm. CWiPm
YLp, lL[ LY]jPu Tj uTt\ Yim. H]p YdY].
NlPu ]k LWVL rTYjR HtTj, Lp Tk ALtYRt
WUjR HtTjm.
13.2. YlTdRp
YlTdRp GuT J dLX] NVpT Bm. \jR dRp ApX
Lp Es[ YiQm Ue CkRp AkR ] YiUVdRp Tu\
NVpTLs YlTdRp Xm SPdu\]. NXY NnRp, L\L[ NRWQ
NXYp dL VR Xp YlTdRp Xm dLlT\. YlTdRX
LY]UL A]j WL Lm NnV m. Lp HtTPdV TlT
RodL NV] NXjRL Utm YlTu Vm Tt Rk ClT
CuVUVRRm.
169

YlTuLu NVpThT AY u YLlTm.

13.2.1. BdLW] YlT]Ls
13.2.2 \dm YlTuLs
13.2.3. BlLp YlTuLs
13.2.1. BdLWQ YlTuLs : CYtp WQY dVU] AeLUL
[e, p Es[ L\Pu NmT YPlT\. L\Pu BdLWQ
YlTu NmT \Ut\ WNV]d hlT[ EYdm.
13.2.2. \dm YlTuLs : CY X YLV] L\Lp Ck
WQYY dh, AR] \Ut\ WNV]dhl T[L \d\.
BdLWQ YlTuLs uYY]Yt\ lPXm.

V JPu DWlTRm, Lt, p

NVm aT[Wh

NVm ToTWh

ahW_u TWd^

ThPVm ToUeL]h

13.2.1.A. V JPu DWlTRm, Lt, p

C TZUV], XTU], UY]. Um Tj Utm ]u BVYt\
YdL TVuTjRlTm YlT]m. CY \jR dYRt TVuTjRlTm
T WQYPu Nok \Ut\Rd \. Lt Utm pp Ck
V J Xm T\lTm WQYm, DWlTRjPu V J NmT
T\lTm WQYm \kR YlTuLs Bm. Yld EhTjR Es[
Ts lTL L\lT DWUdLlTh, V J TU p ApX NLs
L\Ls U\m YW TWlTlT\. u]o V EP]VL Al\lTjR
Yim. H]p iP SWjt VJ TU YjkRp Ls
TZm.
BdLWQ WNV]jPu YlTdm u, EXL TjRuLs ApX Y
\ EXL ThLs CkRp GjPm. H]p, EXLeLs BdLWQjRp
Lp LW HtTjm.
13.2.1.B. NVm aT[Wh ApX _Yp o
RYV] ThLs: 1 Ti NXY NP (480 gms), Ti Xm [W
1 Yoh Ldm o, 2 Yoh okR o
Nn\ : NXYNP Utm Ldm o Li WYm RVdLm. Xm
[W Utm okR ] Noj LXdLm. LXkRY Z Tk RYm
YW TjdLm. RY] WYjR NXY NP WYjPu LXdLm. CqY
170

NodLlTmT NVm aT[Wh Utm LpVm LoT]h sTYUL

Pd\. sTYm Z RemYW Tjk RY] WYjR YLh
GjPm. CkR WYjR YiQThpLp Wl YdLm. NRWQ \Ut\
ThpLp YjRp JTmT WYju Vm \km.
TVu : NVmaT[Wh J VU] YlT]m. CR] Ys[
\ Tj Utm ]u Ld TVuTjRXm. NUA[ RiPu NVm
aT[WhP ojR Xp UuTg Li L\s[ Tp L\
em YW RnjPm. u p Es[ YlT] dL Su AXNm.
13.2.1.C. NVm ToTWh YlTu
C TWdv Utm NVm ahWd^ (caustic soda) WYjR ahW_[u
TWd^ Noj RVdLlTm LXYVm. YYlT] RiPu
LXdmT Bd_u YVt\lTh LWjRuU YnkR ahW_u TWd^
WYm EYm. CkR WYm Nls RVld TVuTm.
RVdm \ : J Auv (28 Wm) WNV]jR J LXu (4 hPo) p
LWdLm. Xe] WU CZLd WYjR Ad AXm Noj
SXTjRm.
TVu : 1 uh Ldm p 1 RdLWi NVm ToTWh Noj WYm
RVdLm. ojR NVm ToTWh TVuTj L\L[ dL UuTg Li
Ys[ Tj, ]u Lp L\s[ TLp RnjPm.
13.2.1.D. ahW_u TWd^
C J SVLm, oSt\jR ALt UQm HtTjRm TVuT\.
C J Vm \kR TVs[ T[m. B]m, CR] TVuTjmT
AL LY]jPu TVuTjR Yim. H]p, ahW_u TWd^ Ld
AL TlT HtTjm. CdLXY LPLp TpY APoLp WYXp
Pd\. CkR WNV]m Ltp Xj tL. LXYu NdV TLdL,
\kR YlTXp APo\ hLp Lt LRY TLdL Yim.
ahW_u TWd^ YlTu EP]VL Rio Utm WQYYL
km. AR]p p L\V] ahW_u TWd^Pp BdLWQm
APkm. CfNVpT LWLWNPu AYLUL SPTm.
TVu : ahW_u TWd^ A]j WL Ldm J TLlT] YlTu
Bm. Th Utm LmTd CkR YlTu TVuT\. CkR YlT]
Lp EXWPdP. 10 L] A[ Nd LiP ahW_u TWd^
odLlTPUp Ys[ Tj Utm ]u Lp TVuTjRXm. B]p \
YL Ld 6 T okR Pu 1 T ahW_u TWd^ LXk ojR
Xp TVuTjR Yim. R[ AUV Noj WYjR LWjRuU
dLRL NnVXm.

171

13.2.1. E. ThPVm ToUeL]h YlTu

CkR YlTp Es[ AL A[ WQYY] p Es[ AjRU]
PR L\Vm dm. ERWQm PlTVuTm T] U, L\, VoY
L\ Utm Tj, Um LdL\ Utm RYWdL\Ldm
TVuTjRlT\. L\ dLlThP \ Tld L\ Lp Tkm. AkR
T] ahW_u TWd^ ApX Bd^d AXm TVuTj dLXm.
ThPVm ToUeL]h TL Ep Pd\. CR] XTUL ThpLp
Nj YdLXm.
TVuTjm \ : J Auv YlT] (28 Wm) J LXu (4 hPo)
Rip ThPVm ToUeL]h LWNXd Tj Utm ]u Ld
TVuTjRXm. Xe] WUjRp NnVlThP Ld LWNp 2 UPe o
Noj odLf Nn Ls[m. V YlTu LXkR p X PeLs
rLYj, u ] AX GdLm. u Tl \m APk Cdm.
Tl \jR dYRt Z LdLlThs[ HRm J WYjp r
YdLlTh YlTdLlT\.

NVm ahW NpTh

Bd^d AX LWNp (4 hPo p 28 Wm) ApX

2% ahW_u TWdNp Ad AXm Noj AXm BdLlT\. (1

RdLWi Lo 500 .. YlTd TVuT\).

V WNV] LXY NVpTht EhTjV u p Su AXNYim.

13.2.2. \dm YlTuLs
A. NVm ahW NpTh
B. NVm TNpTh
C. NVm RVNpTh
13.2.2. A. NVm ahW NpTh
C T Ep tLlT\. p LWdLlTm T EP]VL WQYY
Eg NVm UhP TNpThP EYd\. Um, NVm UhPT
NpTh WQYY Eg NVm NpTh Utm NpToP Bd^P
EYd\. NpTo P Bd^, Npd AXUL BdLWQm APk,
ahW_u YPlT\. CqY\L L\ dRp NVpT CYLp
NnVlT\. Rp, TV] WQYY L\k GjdLi,
L\V R\f Nn\. CWiPY, Npld AXjk YVt\lThP
ahW_u Rt\ L\Tp Ck L\V YUL d\. CkR
YlTu A]j WLLm TLlTL u]fNdLPu
TVuTjRlT\. B]p u]fNdLVL WLjt TjRU]
YlTXV YlTu LWNp TWUlT AYVm.
172

TVuTjm \ : Ju Rp Su RdLWi CWNV]jR J uh (500

.) Lp LXk LWNp Ls X PeLd r YdLlT\.
LWu RuU Utm u Ti BVYt\ Nok LWNu APo UTm.
YlTuL[ k ALtYRt AL APos[ NlLs
TVuTjRlTh p AXNlT\.
TVu : p, NQm, ` Tx, Tj. T]U, ThPVm ToUeL]h
Utm NVLWLs BVYt\ dYRt TVuTjRlT\. CkR YlT]
YiQ Ldm TVuTjRXm. AqY NnmT X NUVeLp GoTWR
RUL YiQm Ue TLXm. EP]VL LW LWNp rL NnYRu XULY
ApX NlT TVuTj ClWf]V NNnVXm.
u]fNdL : DWm, YlTm Utm WQYYp CkR YlTu TVuTjm
T Ls Ue P Ynl Cd\. X SWeLp CkR YlTu
lTt Lsm. AR]p Lt LR DWpXR LsLXuLp CkR YlT]
TLdL Yim. LWL[ dmT NpToP Bd^ YVYRp
RiP Utm WWp GfNp HtTPXm. BLY _u]p AL ApX \kR
Yp LWdm NVpThP NnV Yim.
EXLeLPu YlTu TVuTjmT Ll \ LWL[ Lp
HtTjR Ynl Es[Rp LY]UL NVpTP Yim. UiTiPm ApX UWjRp
B] LXuL[ TVuTjY ELkR.
13.2.2. B. NVm T NpTh
C UuUV] \lT]m. CR] Npd AXm Utm Lvd NP
NodmT T NUX APmT Pd\.
NpTo P Bd^ YVt\lTmT CkR CWNV]m Ydm
[] LWp Es[ Bd_] ALt p Es[d LW dLlT\.
RYV] ThLs
NVm T NpTh 2 RdLWi
o

1 uh (500 ..)

CY CWiPm LXk WYm RVdLlT\.

TVuTjm \ : LWV ALtm YW p Es[ LWT YlTp
r YdLlT\. u]o CWNV]jR ALt\ Su AX Ltp
EXWYdLlT\. NpTo P Bd^ YUiPXjp Es[ Lt\ Eg NpTo
hW Bd^PL U\. CkR NpTo hW Bd^ Pu Nok Np@d
AXUm. BLY Su V p AXY AYVUm.
13.2.2. C. NVm RV NpTh
CkR CWNV]m J \lT]m. C NpTo P Bd^ YVt
NVp\. Tj V YlTRt alT LWNp TVuT\. J
173

Auv (28) NVm RVNpTh 1.5 Auv 36% Ahd AXjR 8 YohLs
(8 hPo) p LWj alT LWNp RVdLlT\. u]o Ls NVm
NpTh YlTu TVuTj YdLlT\.
13.2.3. J YlTuLs (Optical bleach)
J YlTuLs Ys[ \ Lp TVuTjRlTu\]. CY
EiUV] YlTuLs ApX. B]p Ys[ \ JdLoL[p HtTm
WNV] hlT[m. ERWQm: ]Tp CdhlTs EP]VL L[
YdLf NnV. B]p SpX Ys[ \ [Y HtTjm. u CZLp
Ys[ \ JdLo hlThLs EgNlTh, X \jR Rtj, UgNs
Tl \jR U\j\. \Ut\ JdLo NVeLs, Lid XlTPR
AphW YXh LoL[, XlTm JdLoL[L Ut\.
13.2.4. ALUL YdLlTRp
Tj Utm ]u Ls Snk TYRt dV LWQm ALUL
YdLlTYRm. CkR CZLs SeL VRLm. CWi TL[ Noj
RndmT Snkh TLdVRLm Um. CkR WfN] HtTPUp
CdL rYm lL[ YlTu TVuTjmT LV[ Yim.
i.

YlTu VjR Ak TVuTjR Yim.

ii.

60oC dm \Y] YlTXV TVuTjR Yim.

iii.

YlTu A[] LfRUL A[k TVuTjRm.

iv.

GlTm YlT] odL Nn u UYL NodLm.

ASLUL [u YlTuL[ ALm YjRd LWQUu\]. B]p

BdLWQju LWQULm LhPu Utm ]p ALU] Yl HtT\.
160oF (71oC)d AL YlTXp [u YlT] TVuTjRdP.
13.2.5. RX] V_uLs
NlLs Utm \ ThLPu X CWNV]eLs Utm ThL[ NXY
XVeLp lhP LWQeLdLL ALUL TVuTjRlT\. CY
rYU dLlThs[].
A. LW V_uLs

B. AX V_uLs

C. BoLd LWNpLs Utm

D. EgLs

13.2.6.A. LW V_uLs
i. AUV (AmUVm ahWd^ ApX dLo AmUV)
C J Vm kR LWm. GiQn TN LWL[ Utm Xe] WU
CZLp, vLofe [Y dL TVuT\. (4 RdLWi WYjp 500 ..
Rio TVuTjRlT\).
174

GqY\m AL APoP] ApX RYd ALULY CkR CWNV]m

TVuTjRlTm Th Utm LmTp UgNs \jR HtTj\. \jR
YW Nn\. Lp PuPe HtT\.
AL APos[ AmUV BVL V. ALU] AmUV YY
YVt fNPl Utm LUWX ARu UWQj]p HtTjm. BLY ojR
AUV LWNX RVdLXm ApX h ETVLjt TVuTm
AUVY TVuTjRXm. TVuTjRR NUVeLp ojR AmUV Utm
APo kR AUVY oNR]l Thp TLdL Yim.
ii. Ye NP (NVm LoT]h)
C TYL NXYdLL TVuTm CWNV]Um. p LWVdV TLeL[L
tLlT\. NlLPu Noj TVuTjYRp NXY Nd UmT\.
L]W UuUVdLm, AXjR SXlTjRm, Tj, ]u Ls,
YdLlThP u AXd LWL[ dLm, GiQn TNV LWdLm TpY
YLLp CkR CWNV]m TVuT\.
RYW LWLs Ut\m vLofeL dYRt Ye NP TVuT\. CRt
14 RdLWi CWNV]m 500 .. Lp LWdLlT\. CkR LWNp P]
Xp V] 15 PeLs r YdLlT\. u]o p AXNlT\.
Up \lThs[ RWU] TVuTLs CkRm Ye NP X SWeLp
Ys[j Lp UgNs \j] HtTj\. Um Rd TlT
HtTjm. BLY SWVL L[ LL[p NXY NnV TVuTjYR
RodL Yim.
iii. TWdv (NVm PhWTWh)
XN] LW RuU dL p LWm CWNV]m. C A]j YLV]
CZLm TVuTjRlT\. C Ys[ \ TL QL[L LPLp
Pd\.
TVu : LW dLlThP \ AXj RuUV NUuTjR TVuT\.
Tj Utm ]u Lp YlT]L TVuTjRlThPm im im
NXY NnYRp UgNs \U \. CkR Ls TWdv LWNp LdL
YdLlTm T YiUV\.
Lgp TWdv NolTRp AL YlTXp NhPu LXoLs Utm
TlTRp RodLlT\.
13.2.5. B. AX V_uLs
i. Ahd AXm
hp Ahd AXjR LWL TVuTj\m (Lo 6%, Ahd
AXm) TpY VeLp LPLp Pd\. XVp Ahd AXm Lm
jRU]m, VU]m Bm. CkR AXjR EXLeLp TVuTjRdP.
B]p LiQ, [vd G]Up ApX UiTiPeLp TVuTjRXm.
175

TVuLs : Nd \kR Lo LWNp (CWi RdLWi 1hPo Rip)

ALTVL Lp Xm HYR RPNnVm, NUXlTjm LWVLm
Cd\.
L[ NXY NnRu LPVL Vm L \kR Ahd AX LWNp
AXmT \Ut\m HtTYR Roj TW] Wf Nn\.
Vm \kR Ahd AX LWNp Th Utm WVu V AXmT
\m UeLUp m.
Thp NVm HtmT TVuTjRlTm. Np@d AXjt TXL
Ahd AXm TVuTjRlT\.
NpXv AhPhp HtTm \L[ \ NnV Ahd AXm
ER\. NpXv AhPh Ls AL YlTXp \ TmT
T[T[lT] X hdLs Lp HtT\. AY v hdLs G] RY\L
GiQlT\. CkR \lT ] 20% Ahd AXLWNp 1 U
SWm rLf NnYRu Xm dLlT\. CkR LWNp Ck V YV
Gj Ut\ Vp AkR LWNX UYL YVt\m. 140oF (60oC)p
EXojRlT\.
u]fNdLLs : ALlTV] Ahd AXm LmT Utm Th]
TlTPV Nnm. RPo NXYuT ALlTV] AXm AXNlTPUp
CkRp GiQn TN kR Rt\jPu Ll AXeLPu NokR
JqYR UQjR HtTjm.
d AXm : C AL SfjRuU YnkR Utm Ys[ TLeL[L
ii. BdN
tLlT\.
TVu

Cm LW Utm TZdLWL[ ALtm.

ThPVm ToUeL]hPp HtThP Tl LWV YdLf Nnm.
BdNd AXm ahW_u TWd^Pu Nok, P] AlTPVL
LiP Gm U] dYRt TVuT\.
Ys[ \ YdLp RlL[ nU NnYRt.

500 . Rip 14Rp RdLWi BdNd AXm LWdLlThP P]

LWNp 10 PeLs LWs[ V r YlTRu Xm LW dLlT\.
u Su\L AXNlT\. TWdv ApX AUV (100%) ALlTV] AXjR
\lTRtLL NodLlT\.
u]fNdL
LmT Utm Thp TVuTj]p WkRWU] Tl LWLs HtTm.
(140oF, 60oC) AL YlTXp ApX AL VU] LWNp Utm WNV]m

NodLlTh EXWfNnmT TRm.

UWdLWiL[ TVuTj Bd^d AXjR LV[m.
176

d A
Xm (K
u)
iii. K
C Ll AX YlTf NokR. LWjPu ]m T NlT
EYdm.
TVuLs : v Ut\m GiQn LWL[ LidL ER\. LWp Kd
AXjR ThPp 15 PeLdl u, AkR L\ LWkdm. L\ dL
EhTjRlThP T kRdLlTh, Vm \kR AUV LWNp rLf
NnVlTh NlT EYd\. L\V Aj RnlTRp, W HtTjRlTh
L\ dLlT\.
CkR AXm Tj Utm ]p TVuTjRlT\. CkR AXm EP]VL
LmT C[LfNnm. Thp \m UeLf Nnm Utm YiQjLd ELkR
ApX. Ls Su\L AXNlTP Yim. CpXp dljR UQm EYm.
13.2.5 C. BoLd LWNpLs
lhP BoLd LWNpL[ Lp TVuTj L\L[ dLXm ApX
EXoNXY NnVXm. BoLd LWNpLs CZVV ApX YiQjRV
TdL. GqY\m, AL X LWQUL, PLp TVuTjRlTYpX.
NXY XVeLp TVuTjRlTm dV LWNpLs Tt Z LdLlThs[.
i. jRlTjm Tuu (ThWp)
CR] ThWVl T[ YLhmT T\Xm. C Tt\dV.
Lp Nj YdLdP Utm Slu AL TVuTjRdP.
TVuLs : v L\L[ LidL Utm EXoNXYp TVuT\.
ii. LoTu PhW [W
ThWp Tu\ NVpT EPV. B]p X ALU]. Sl Tt\R.
B]p SfjRuU YnkR. BLY, Yl\jp ApX _u]p AL TVuTjR
Yim. Um, Wp BVPdV.
TVuLs : TihL[ Utm v L\L[ dL TVuTjRlTm LWNp
Bm.
iii. AhPu
TX L\L[ dL TVuTm, J ELkR LWNp Bm. Sl Tt\dV.
Um NpXv APh WV] LWNp TVuTj]p LWkm.
TVuLs : NpXv APh Utm Vu CZLs RW \ CZLp
Tih, SLTx, lvd, Yox, ` Tx RVYt\ dL APu
TVuT\.
iv. RXhPh vh (BpLap)
NVtLVL \Ut\lThP BpLap, Rp BpLap NodLlTh,
SfjRuU Ht\lTh, lTRt TVuTPt\.
177

TVuLs : e U, pYo ShWh Utm pYo L\L[ dL TVuT\.

B]p BoLd L\Ld ELkRRpX. NlPu TVuTjRlTmT
Sp[L[ HtTjm. BpLap APh WV] LWjm. B]p
\YL Lp TLlTL TVuTjRXm.
v. TWu
ThWV ThLu [T[L TWu U Pd\.
TVuLs : v Utm NXYL WlTo CQlLp Tih L\L[ dL
TVuT\.
vi. PoTuPu
TW] P AL X LiP. RlThP UQPV. Sl Tt\dV
Utm BVLdV.
TVuLs : Lp v, Tih, Yox Utm Afm UdL\V
dLlTVuTm APh, SXu Tu\ Lp TLlTL TVuTjRlT\.
13.2.5.D. EgLs
TYL JW WL AdL] Yo\ Ls Utm v LWLs dL
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@pXov Goj (fullers earth), Whj sLs, UdV s, Utm \ YT EXo
NXY sLs.
TVuTjm \ : L\ dL ApX T NXYp, Rp XN] AdL
Li dLm. \ EgV TWlTm. YhPNp XNL RndLm.
AWU SWm AlTV Pm. \ [ A]j Tm TPfNn,
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AL APo\s[ @TphLs, LhLs, WpLs Utm RlLs, JhPL WU,
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TVuLs : EgLs Yo Utm APo\ v hdLs TkR A]j WL
Ls, Ys[ \ XvLs, LhLs, `pLs, RlL[ jRm NnV
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13.3. Lg TN CRp / BPL[ WlTdRp
vPofLs L[ Wl, PPl, WWl, l ApX
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vPof GuT iPLXUL L[ WlTdL AdL TVuTjRlT\.
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178

Tu\ hPUlT Lis[. RYWeLs vPofN RVdu\]. vPofLs

TYL C YLlTm. LnLLs (Ys[\d LnLs Utm N[dLXY)
Utm [vd (u Li RVdLlTY) [vd YL RtT
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TXL TVuTjRlT\.
X YL RYWeLu RiLp CVtLVL RkR vPofLs NdLlT\.
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ERWQm: A, LU, N[m Tu\Y Utm YoLs Utm ZeL[]
E[dZe, NodLW YsdZe, UWYsdZe RVY. vPof GuT
J LoTahWh Utm YqY ThLp TpY AUlp CkRm
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NR]Lm P UTLs Cd\. B]p iQd NR] Xm
AdL[ TojRp A[m, Ym UTLs ClTR LQm.
13.3.1. A vPof : CkR vPof AdLs Lf V]. L[ WlTd,
XTjp UlTRt TjRU] ZZlT] WY LWNp RVdL ELkR. okR
W TVuTj LgRdm CkR vPof Lm TjRU]. vPof Au
A[ Lm VRL Es[Rp GRL s Ff Npm RuUVl
Tts[.
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LQlTm. APojV] ZZlj RuU EPV WYj] RVdL YRp
Ls XTUL UdLdV RuUPu, Wlj RuUVm Tt Cdm.
B]p CkR vPof Lm XdL. BLY, C NXYj Rp T[RW
dL]jt Ht\ ApX.
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WlPu mTjRLR WP] RRuUV Adm. C X UY]
vPof Bm. B]p \YL vPWfLPu CQk TVuTjRlT\.
13.3.4. E[dZe : CkR vPof AdLs Lm TV A[] Li
Cdm. BLY, CkR vPof NXYj Rd TjRU] ApX.
YojRL vPofLs : TpY Wh UodLp YojRL vPofLs Pdu\].
CkR YL vPWfLs YZdLU] CWi, u TpY vPof YLL[ LXk
tLlTu\. CkR NVtLV] vPofu RuUV] SuU Gu]Yp,
Lp CPlThP vPof TX LXYLd um P Wlj RuUV
Lp Jhd Li Cdm.
13.3.5. vPofd Ut / TXL TVuTTY ApX vPofN p
TWlTY
vPof PlT ARYRp TpY RVlLs vPofd Ut\L
ApX vPofN TWlTY NkRp ThP].

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Lp R[ TVuTjmT AL WljRuU Pd\.
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UWYsdZe s Utm VeLhP s LXY YojRL vPofPu LXk
tT] NnVlT\.
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vPofN p LdL YdmT AdLs A[p TR, RYL
Cdm. Jhm RuUu RWm TVuTjRlTm vPofu YLV Tj
Cdm.
vPof _p
RVdm \
RYV] ThLs
1 U_dLWi vPof
RdLWi TWdv
2 U_dLWi okR o
1 T Ldm Rio
RVdm \
vPofN okR p LXk YZYZlT] ZUl T[L BdLm. Ldm

W UX Ft RPok LXdLm. RY] WYUm YW LXd EP]VL

NUA[ W Noj ojR Xp YdLm. R[ @ToU] vPofPu
Noj lTYR RjPXm.
TVu : Tj Utm ]u Lp vPof CRp Lm G. vPof CPYiV
L[ vPof LWNp rLYj,Um UL Gj Lp YUL
vPof TPokRu, YV Gj o YkRu EXWP Yim. vPof TpY
Lp RYlTm A[Y] rYY]Yt\ Nok Es[.
1. u APo
2. d RYlTm Wlj RuU
3. JYW RlThP lTm
13.3.7. okR Rio vPof
RYV] ThLs
1 RdLi A vPof

RdLWi TWdv (AL Wl HtTjR)

3 Ls PoTuPu (Ud TXL)

T okR o
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180

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TVuTjYRt AWU SWjtu UpV Uvu Xm YLh
Yj h TVuTj]p vPof AdLs UuUVm.
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V] CqYL vPof TVuTjmT EXok CdL Yim. vPof
LXYV] u CZLds EgNlTh, u VlT\. UpTWlp
Es[ vPof LsLs op S]j, VlThP Uvu ] TVuTj
Pj GdLlT\. u Cv NnVlT\.
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TYL Ys[ \ Ls ARtV WLdm \jR, CZk UgNs
Tl \jR T\. CkR UgNs \jtL] LWQm rYY]Yts Ju\m.
1. AW\ NXY
2. u Tm Nlp Es[ iQm ApX CmjLsLs
3. TX NXYLdlu YlTu TVuTjRUVp ApXR NWNWlT] LW
Nl]p p HtThP AL YlT]p TlTPk, CVtLV]
CZu \jR im TRp Xm UgNs \U\.
SmdLd GWL, YlTuLs L[ YiUVdYpX.
Ut\lThP LWQeL[p UgNs \URX NNn\.
XeLs GuTY NXY NVpThu T Lm, NXY XVeLm,
Ls UgN[YRj RdL TVuTjRlTm WNV]eLs Bm. hp TYL
AphW UWu Xm TVuTjRlT\. C p LWVdV.
ASL NXY XVeLs LWVdV XeL[ TVuTju\]
AphWUWu GuT TVujR TLlT]. LWfNlL[p
TlTPYpX. X Y[Lp Lp NlPu Xm NodLlTYRp, Xm
Tp Cu G] \lT\. AphW UWu Xm Li Xm T TV
LsL[p LLs ApX hLs p HtTh WfN]Ls HtTPXm. CR]
RodL XjR LP AXNd u Ldl TY SpX.
AphWUWu [m TYRt AL TWUl RY HtTYRp ASL NXY
XVeLs LWm XeLs Utm TWdm NXY LsL[ TVuTj NXYV
GRdd Lis[].
LWVdV XeLs Au NVeLs Ru. CY TX YLm tT]
NnVlTu\]. RVdL, LhlTjR, NVpTjR, Lp TP, NUUL \Ut,
Z GkRR Tu NVpTjR \. AL A[p NXY Nnm TYo
NXY XVeLp Au NVeLs TVuTjRlT\. CY APoY]
WYULY ApX sL[LY Pdu\]. Tolx Xm Lm Wj
181

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TtdLsm RuU Au NVju TiTL CkRm, TLlTL TVuTjR
Yim. ALUL p LWm RuUVp, RPok AXYRp GRL V
h em. J Y[ ALA[ Xm Th CkRm AXRp Xm
ALt PXm.
Nlu CdmT XP Yim. Xm NVpT LP ApX
ARt kRV AXNp SPTY ELkR. Uvu p Xm LhPlTh
op RYV] X\m PdmYW VlT\. LWVR RuUPV
AphWUWu pLh ReLPlTh TVuTjYRt u JqY \m
LXdPlT\. V] Rip K \Ls rGdLlT\. TdLh
Utm T Tu\ Tp ReV Xo d GdLlT\. Rik
YVt\lTP Yim. Xm LXkR p V ThPdP. XRp
Utm LgRX X NUVeLp RYkRp CQj NnVXm.
UgNs \m LiP Lp Xm CPYim. CpXVp TfNVm.
Ad AXm NolTRp ALA[ Xm dLlT\. YPjp 9 UReLs APo
V J Cdm. Sm CkV Shp XRd AYVpX GuTR
LYdLm. JeL] \p NXY NnVlThP Ld V J J
\kR CVtLV] YlT]m.
13.4. EXojRp Utm AjRp
13.4.1. EXojRp : TiPLX \p Lp Es[ ALU] RiW
k, RWp V J TU j YjRp ApX [U] Ltd LLp
ReLh EXW YlTR LPdLlTh Yks[. B]p Cu\V Xp
RVe NXY CVkWeLp o ALt\lThP EPu EXolTuLp Ck YV
GjP Yim. CpXp dLm, WljRuU ApX em. J
[d Ltd Lp EXW YiU]p LtdL jRUL PdLlTh
CdL Yim. L[ Su ER dLu JeLL CQlL[ SWd
ReLP Yim. Su EXm uTL GjP Yim. AlTRu Cv
AjRm LlT XTUm.
13..4.1.1. EXW Ydm L
A. Yl\jp EXW YjRp (L[ EXW Ydm L) : Tj, NQp,
ReLn So, L ApX Xm NlThP Lm PU] ApX dLlThPR
EXoYRtL] LVL TVuTjRXm. LmdLLs WkRWU]Y. AYt\
TVuTht u jRU] Li Pj Cmj Y dh
L[ EXojR Yim. L[ EXojR ELkR CPm Yl\jp jRU]
Lt Utm V J Tu\ CPU Bm.
.B. hu Eh\jp EXW YjRp : Yl\jp EXW YdL VR Xp,
UZ TY LXeLp Eh\eLp EXojYRt Ht\Y AUlT EYdL
m.
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i.

J ht UWfNhPjRp B] WdL (rack) AUj Ap Wh]m

Utm L CQj UXt UtWp AUjhPp SpXR EXW
YdmM L RVWm. iP UpV epLs TX Lp
TVuTjRlT\.

ii.

UPd Ydm WdLs XTUL RVo NnVdV. C Lm TVs[RL

Cdm.

iii.

TjRlThP EXW Ydm Th UZdLXeLp EXojRd C J

YWlWNRm. Yl\jp EXW YdL VR Xp ThLp YlTjR
uNWm Xm (h, \j) N Nn C vhfLs TjRlTh
TVuTjRXm. J vhf YlTjp EXWfNnVm Ut\ vhf
BYRtm TVuT\. TV S] ahPpLs ApX Y]eLp J
EXojm ThV] Y ApX uNWm Xm YlTlTjR TVuT\.

Yl\ EXojRp Lm \kR. Ys[ \ Ls V Jp

EXojRlTmT YjRd ERVL Cdm. VJp EXoY WYm.
Ls SNUPm Utm Ls jQo Tm. iP Ltd LLp
ReLmT KWeLs, UlL[ j lL[p Tj EXW YdL Yim.
V Jp iP SWjt EXW YdL YiPm. B]p EXokRPu EP]VL
GjP Yim.
Eh\jp EXW YlT \kR. YiQjLs \m UeLUp CdL Eh\jp
EXW YlT \lT]Rm.
13.4.2. AjRm LjRp Utm Cv CRp
ASL WL YLLs NXYdlu, AjRm LjRp UhU ARu
EiUV] Rt\m T\ m. m NVpT GuT L[ SoTj,
ARu Rt\m LYWdVRLm, SojV]RLm CdLf NnYR Bm.
u R
p A) Th CRp, B. AjRp,
13.4.2.1. NXY NnR
C) BRp, D) BPV UZUZlTdRp, E) T[T[lTdRp BV \Ls
TVuTu\].
A. Th CRp : CfNVpThp P] Cm ThV uTdLm Utm
uTdLUL LW KWeLp Ck AjRm Lj u RnlT
Bm.Cml Thu ExQm Utm AjRm u \jRt\m Utm
u RuUVl Tj LhlTjRlT\.
Cv Cm \
1.

EV] TWls[ CPm, jRU] P] Cml Thm \lTL Cv

CP CuVUVR.

2.

PYLs Utm lTuLd 4x2 1/2 A Utm 3 A EVW U_ \kR.

Ut\ \ Ld Cv Nnm TXLV TVuTjRXm. J TjWjp
Rio, J UpV Uvu Utm J Cv vPim RYlTm.
183

3.

T EXokR DWjV j, j P] Cv ThV um um

Uld LWVWjp Ck KPP Yim.

B. AjRp : p UlLs Es[ TLp P] Cv ThV Yj

Gdm NVpTP AjRp Bm. CfNVpThp um um ThV
u RPofVL KPY PV.
C. BRp : CfNVpThp o B u UtTWlp TWYf NnVlT\.
Tp SN NnVlThP YpYh Utm YpYhu Tu\ Lu UtTWlp
BRp NVpT NnVlT\.
D. UZUZlTdRp (Mangling) : NWNWlT] UtTWls[ Lp UZUZl
NnVlT\. UtTWl SojVL CkRm, UZUZYu CpXRT
UZUZlTdLlTm.
E. T[T[lTdRp (Calendering) : YojRL, NXY UVeLp, SW] Tj Utm
]u Lp \f NnmT T[T[lf NVpT NnVlT\.
U_ lLs, WfXLs Utm TdL lLp T[T[l
NnVlT\. YlTlTjRlThP C EXL E[Ls RPok EmT
CPp NjRlT\.
13.4.2.2. Cv CRp :
TpY Cv ThLs RtLXjp Pd\. XdL ApX uNWm XUL
YlTlTjRlT\.
A. XdL Cv Th : TYL Cv CR] Rp NnTYoLs
TVuTju\]o.
B. uNW CvTh : R] CVeLR, RVe Utm W Cv ThLs
RtLXjp RVe uNW Cv Thp SWm YlTm. AjRm
RX]Yt\ dm L Tj Cdm. AkR Lp R STd RYV]
YlTjR Ro Nn Cv NnVXm. TYL Th Utm URu RVdm
CZLd \Y] YlTm RYlTm. B]p Tj Utm ]uLd
ALU] YlTm RYlTm. NV] YlT XV Lp RokRjRp
Ls LLUp, dLeLs ALt\lTh Cv NnVXm.
13.5. L[ TLjRp
Ld AkdmT Uhu, TLj YdLlThdm Tm
TWUl RY. YPm Ym RhTYlT TYm WL CpXUp ClTRp
lhP TYLXjp lhP Lu RY HtT\. Lu TLlm,
TWUlm lhP LXjt RYlT\. AL A[p Ls CkRp,
A\V ApX TLdm vPW TVuTjRXm. ApX LlTo ApX
`plLs TVuTjRXm.

184

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A. RYL, EXok, DWlTRm Cu CdL Yim
B. YfNUL, Cu CdL Yim.
C. `plLs AL A[p Su\L AUdLlThdL Yim. AL EVWjp
CkRp V TLlT Lm WUm
D. `plLs BZUL CdL Yim.
E. LReL[p PlThdL Yim.
F. WVoLm L[ TLdL TVuTm.
G. LlTo TVuTj]p, LRL[ NVL P Yim.
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13.5.2. L[ TLdmT LY]jp Ls[ YiVYLs
1.

p CpXUp CdL Yim. Li jRm NnVlTh,

TdLhp jRUL, Yp EXojRlTh TLdL Yim.

2.

NXY NnVYiV L[ NXY Nn TLdL Yim. EXo NXY

NnV YiVYL[ EXoNXY NnV Yim.

3.

Th ApX AXUp L[ Admu Lt YRt Y NnV

Yim.

4.

DW Xp L[ TLdL P. DWlTRm, gN Y[W LWQUm,

NRUPm. BLY EXo Xp TLdL Yim.

5.

AXUp LRm j ApX TZV V j ARu L[

Yj TLdL Yim.

6.

TLdm CPjR fLp vlW Nn LWlTu Tu\ fLs YYR

RPNnV Yim.

7.

LX, YlTCX Tu\ fLpL[ TLdm CPjp

TVuTjRXm. SlRu EiPLs KPp Tu\Y \kRY. LtWm
\kRRRL TVuTjRlT\.

8.

LmT BPL[ NnRs Li TLjRp, TfN Tu\ fLs

Afm U ClTRp LmT V TdL.

9.

SflL ahW NV]h LRp Xm TfN, LWlTu AdLlTm.

C ATVU] Ru Gu\m RlThP \p \lTL ASL CPeLp
LV[lT\.

10. JW CPjp L[ TLdL Yim. (E.m) LhLs, UpLh, J

CPjm, LoLuLs, p KYoLs J CPjm, PYLs Y J CPjm
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12. iP ShLs TLdLlTP YiV L[ UlLp Ut Uj YdL

Yim. CpXVp Ulp V Ynls[.
13. Tju TLp L[ Yj TLlT \kR.
14. LghP L[ iP LXjt TLdLdP.
15. GlTRY TVuTjRdV L[ Up `plLp YdLXm. L]jR
L[ Z YdmT LVsY XTm.
16. WVoL[ Yp EXW YdmT DWm ALt\lTh, fLm
ALt\lT\.
17. AdL] L[ TLlTRp TX ULs Es[]. Lp L\Ls
WkRWUL Tkm. TfN fLs, Utm gNL[p GRL TlTPm.
18. V NpL[ TRm u Rj NNn TLlT \kR.
W
Ld NV] TWUlm, LYlm CkRp, ATYW AZLdh,
u EZdm \u ALlTjRlT\.
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I.

NV] PV RokRdLm.

1.

hp L[ NXY NnYp TU Utm Tt Tt Rp hTjR

______ LtdLs[Xm.
A) CXY]

2.

B) NXTU]

4.

C) XN]

D) LnL

Rnj, LNd, Rp ______ Ld ELkR.

A) XN] Ad

B.) L]U] Ad

C) hTU]

D) NWNWlT]

L AL Ad BPLs CVkWjp NXY Nnmu______ Li

RndLlT\.
A) Rio

5.

D) GUV]

______ AddL\ F\ YjRp Utm YjRp Xm dLlT\.

A) GiQn TN B) APoY]

3.

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B) LWm

C) Nl

D) YlTuLs

______ L[ SWVL V Jp EXW YdL Yim.

A) YiQ BPLs B) Ys[ \m C) L]U]
186

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A) YiQ

B) XN] GP LiP

C) AL GPPV

D) Lm TV APoY]

_________ vPof mTjRLR WP] Wlj RuUV HtTjm.

A) A

8.

9.

B) E[dZe

C) N[m

D) LU

E[dZe vPof AdLs Lm _________ BLY NXY Rd

ELkRRpX.
A) TV

B) V

C) F TodLdV

D) JLR

_________ RWU] TVuTjRlTm vPof YLVf NokR.

A) Jhm RuU B) EV]

C) APoY]

D) RWm

10. _________ GuT Lp YiQm Ue ClTR dm dLX] NVpT

Bm.

11.

A) NXY NnRp

B) YlTdRp

C) Lg CRp

D) XRp

_________ J CVtLV] YlTu Bm.

A) Lt

B) V J

C) Ui

D) Y

12. _________ YlTu SVLm, oSt\jR ALt\m TVuT\.

A) [u

B) TWdv

C) ahW_u TWd^

D) NVm ToTWh

13. _________ YlTuLs Ys[ \ JdLo hlThL[ RW

EiUV] YlTuLs ApX.
A) J WLNm

B) [u

C) ThPVm ToUeL]h

D) NVm ToTWh

II. 2 UlTi ]dLs

1.

NXY NnRX YWV.

2.

Rnj LNd Rp Gu\p Gu]?

3.

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4.

AjRm LlTRu dLs Gu]?

5.

V EXW YdL TVuTm L LLu YLL[l ThV.

6.

EXojm Th] TVuTjYRu SdLm Gu]?

7.

vPofu hl ThL[ GL.

187

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10. YlTdRp
11.

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13. JWLNm
III. 5 UlTi ]dLs
1.

LL[p NXY Nnm \]p HtTm SuU UL[ Y.

2.

LL[p NXY NnYRtL] lL[ ThV.

3.

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u]fNdLL[ G.

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NVp\L[ Y.

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6.

Yl\ EXojm \ j lTL.

7.

BPL[ Cv Nnm \V [dL.

8.

vPofN GqY YLlTjYn ERWQm RL.

9.

vPofN p TWlTY Tt GL.

10. vPof _p RVdm \V YdLm.

11.

BdLWQ YlTuL[ ThVh HRm Ju\ [d.

12. C \dm YlTuL[ Y.

13. ahW_u TWd^ YlTu SuUL[ ThV.
IV. 10 UlTi ]dLs
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LjR GL

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[dL.

3.

L[ EXojRp Utm AjRm NVpTLs j Y] LjdL[

GL.

4.

NXY Rp vPofu Te Tt Y.

5.

NXY Nnm Rp YlTuLu Te Tt Yj G.

6.

BdLWQ Utm \dm YlTuLs TYL TVuTjRlTY j

Yj GL.
188

14. BP YTm
uW
BP YTm _j\p YYUl Ut\eLPu _Ls, BPLs,
EtTj RthTm Utm BP EtTjV HtU Nnm Sdp CVe
Yu\. _ RtNX TXYLV] EtTj \V LVsu\. BP
YTm GuT LoYod ThL[ tT] Nnm Rp hTeL[
d\. YToLs GuTYoLs EtTjV[oLPm T[ Ye LPdLWoLPm
tT] NnTYoLs Uhu TXYLV] dL[ LVi LPdLWoL[
SmdLhm, BRp Ajm ThL[ YeL Yd\oLs.
SLL YToLs Gu LRlTm BP YToLs pX\ YojRL rXp,
ThLh AXUL[ AUj tT]V TdL EYdRp Rp, A\p
tT]V SP\lTjRm DTh ReL[ TeLlT YZeu\]o.
LP Es AUlT UmTj ThL[ Lh YYUL Ut\ UR EY
TmUL[ Lim, SLL Tp LhL[ AUjm LPLu tT]V
ALdL LWQU\oLs.
14.1. YWVjRp
APV[m LQlThP NkR CXdt hPRp, Y[ofVPV NnRp Utm
AolTj, X oQVm NnYPu, ThL[ YLTjm TLhP] Rjp
EYdm, lhP LXjp tT] Nnm, \UVL LYokdm
ThLh [mTWeLu Xm tT] NnYR YTm G]Xm.
YToLs AlTPj RYV] ThL[V, BP EtTj RX
ApX BP VTWjX pX\ VTWm TiQdVYWL P CdLXm.
J Tu YNj RWjt jRiPn ClT YTm.
14.2. BP EtTju AlTP RthTm
Y YVLY, _-BP EtTjVXLs RjRVL B]p Ju\
NokR Ju\L... EtTjj \p CVem RtNXLm, BP EtTj
BXp CVem RtNXL[Lm NVpTh Yu\]. Tg/So
EtTjV[oLs ReL[ EtTj XlT[ p NW RVdm BXLd
tu\]o. Ae RVdLlThP p NW SNYXLdm, u]p YX
BXLdm tLlTh Ap RVW] V] ojV[d tLlTh
u BP RVdLlTYRt tLlT\.
Cu, Utm BP YojRL NkRV] EXL UVUdLu LWQUL
Lm ThV LiP NkRVL LrYRp, CkR \p WjVL, N`
RuUm NkR CXdL APV VTW dLeL[ AkdL YiV
AYVm. BXL[L CVe YkR \p ClT JeQk TX
TV BXLs EYs[. l EtTj RthTeLs, V LhlTh
RthTeLs G] UL[ j Wk Rdm RPo CQlu Xm
EtTjV[oLdm, pX\ VTLdm Es[ CPYV \du\.
189

RthT Y[of Ru EXL NkRp Lm ThV EYds[ GuTR

VTW UeLs EQou\]o.
RtNX RWYLlThuT, _j\p JuT R _ BX
ETLm, (3 CXdLeLs) 23 NkR TLeLm (4 CXdLm) ClTRL dLlThs[].
AUdLp 6134 _ CVdLjs[ BXLs rYm 9 RpNX ETLp
HRm Jup AUo Ttdm.
_ BX L[L
1.

ALu\ SN LiP pLs: Tj

2.

ALu\ SN LiP pLs: UR]p EYdLlTm So Utm Th.

3.

ALu\ SN LiP pLs, LmTp, NVRp, C YYm Lj

jRp

4.

V SN Ls Utm V pLs: Tj, LmT, Th Utm LL[p

u]lTm SoLs.

5.

u]XP pLs: TiLdL] [ Utm Lp hYW A[ LiP

u]p BP YL, Up _ YLLs, L\, YVP, Es[P, CW
BP, d p CZ YLLs, RhPV], T, FPp, u]p SN
BPLs, Utm L\Ls.

6.

Ld NVRp Ut\m C YYm LjRp, ALu\ Tj SN

Ls, S]p LL]p RVdLlTm ALu\ SN Ls Utm Thd
C YYm LlTYoLs Cp APem. LmT BPLs Utm u]p
YXTLs LiP ThLs Cp APeL.

7.

RW l LmT[m Utm TnLs.

8.

p CZ Utm p BXLs.

9.

CRW _ BXLs: WlTo ApXR f EPLs, Lh LLs, SNpXR

Ls, UpV LLs, td LLs (A) jR LLs, CRW ThL[]
So, NQp, Tg APjRp, W, RW lLs, Utm LL[m,
SoLZL[m jRlTj U TVuTht Y Nnm BXLs.

RtNX RW YLlThuT BPLs JuT L[m, \ \

NnVlThP ThLu EhL[m LiP. Um Y] ThLu
YLLs 31 NkR L[ YWVjs[.

BiLs Utm YoLdL] dLp NhP, Ae Utm Up Ae

BiLs Utm YoLdL] EPLs, T EPLs, Up NhP, Es[P,

CW BP, dLp NhP, Ljp AVdV], AWdLp NhP.

TiLs Utm VdL] YVPLs, Up NhP, LpNhP, hdLp

A[YW LiP RYp EPLs (Skirts) TiLs, VoLs Utm
ZkRLdL] Es[PLs, CW EPLs, W Utm CRW EPLs.
190

Rl, pXdLs.
LeLu Y] WUeLk RVdLTm EPLs.

CRW EPLs Utm TLl EPL[] T EPLs, T L\, Rio

LR YVPLs, Rp Utm NmU Bh EPLs, EP ThPLs,
ReLpLs, LdhP Utm CRW EPLs.

CRW SnVlThP l ThL[] _u]p WLs, LR WLs, hjWLs,

lTLs, LuYv YL Ls, AXeLW RVpLs, RVe YhRp,
CVkW GmTWPLs Utm CRW SnVlThP ThLs.

14.3. LiLh YTm

pXW UVeLp ThL[ Lhl T[L Yj VTW TdLjR
\lTjm NVpThP LiLh YTm G]Xm. ( BdvTo d`],
Bl Cex, 1999, BdvTo Yoh Wv).
LPLu rX, AoTdLlTm CPju A[ BVYt\ Ljp Li
ThL[ ToY T[L A]Yu LY]jRm Dodm YiQm Lh
T[L Yj VTWjR TdYR CRu SdLm. CkR SPYdLp
YYUlT[oLs, jR oYLs, YT UX[oLs, YdLV[oLs, LiLh
YT CVdLu h Vt CRt RYlTu\.
14.3.1. LiLh YTju AlTPLs
LPLu RWlTPjR YYUj, ThL[ YLTj, A]YWm
DodL Ydm A[t LhL[ Nn VTWjR ALlTjYR CRu
AlTP SdLUm.
BPLu Rt\m GqY Cdm GuTR UR EY TmULd
Tj VTWjR TdY GuTR J ERWQjt Gjd Ls[Xm.Uu Cdu GuT TmULd UR EPL[ Aj Lh T[L
YjRp
14.3.2. YnlLs
LiLh YTjp rLm LWL[L A]jm ApX XR CPm T\Xm.

XVL TjRlThP Ts Utm L[ Yhl Tj TVuTjR

RokRjRp

ThL[ AolTdm \

AXU ApXR LiLhV EYdRp (\YL YeRX FdjRp)

LPu RWYYUlT RokRjRp

EP] tT]dLL RsT Xp tT] NnRp

APl LiLhL[ HtTjRp

191

14.3.3. TjRp
GkR \p ThL[ AolTl Nn Lh T[L LidL
Vpu\U ARu TjRp NR]eL[ Nnm.
14.3.4. ThLs AolTl
HtL]Y Cdm TjRp YNLs GqY Es[R ARuTRu
ThL[ AoTdL m

NejRL AdRp (ERWQm TjLLs, kRLLs)

Ju\uUp Ju\L AdRp (UjR EPLs, up APjR EQl

TiPeLs)

ReLPp ReLpLp ApX LdLp

ReLPp - AhPu (A) Tu p CQdLlThP ThLs)

14.3.5. LP RWlTPm
LPu A[ Utm ARu Es EYjR Tj LPu RWlTPm
AUkdm. ThL[ GqY YLlTjR Yim. TXYLV] RRU]
ThL[ GqY, Ge YdL Yim GuTm RWlTPjR oUdm
Ju\m. Utm AXULm, XV] TjRpLm RWTPjt X
hdLhPL[ HtTjm ThL[L APVXm. TXY \Lp RWTPjR
EYdLXm Gu\m AYLs LPs UdLu TdYWj Re RPpXUp
GpX CPjtm Gp APmT AUV Yim Gu\ GiQjp Ru
RWlTPm YYUdLlThdm.
14.3.6. AXUp YdLlTPR Lh ThLs
J T[ ETVLlTjmT GqY Cdm GuTR LilT
ALlTV] RdLjR HtTjm dVm. Lhl ThLs JYW
lTjRm iRXm EYdm Bt\p LiPRL LRlTP Yim.
14.3.7. APjR _u]p Lh ThLs
LiQ _u]pLp Lhl ThL[L YdLlThP ThL[]
YdLV[oLd tT] NnVlTm ThL[ Ttm, LPu rX
Tt RLYp TUt\jR Gp Aj m. YdLV[oLd lQo
HtTj AYoL[ Doj Yem GiQjR HtTjm iLXL
AUUuT LVL.
YdLV[oLu RWjt HtT CkR _u]p Lh ThLs AUdLlTh
LPu AkRvRm hP YiV RXVV LPUVm.
NX SPTRV[oLd T Td Lh T[L Uhm CpXUp
ThL[m NYL[m, ARu X, RWm Ttm C WTdm, SYSLL
pX\ tT]V[oLs ReL[ ThL[ YWjt J \VY
192

UtVUj Lhl ThL[L YdLV[oLu ToYd AolTlTo.

YPjp GkR URjp, GkR Z LXjp Cd\m GuTR J YdLV[Wp
dL m A[t C Lm. Tsd mm LXm, LPLXm, oLXm,
UZdLXm, DvPo, vUv, YPm, TY, LRXoLs ]m Gu
YdLV[oLs AmT _u]p Lh ThLs AUkdm.
14.4. SLL YTm
EPLu tT]V ALl NnRp, EPLp YYUlT[oLu
RYV oj NnRp, YdLV[oLs RYV oj NnRp, [mTWm NnRp,
[mTW TXLL[ TjRp, EtTjV[oL[m NkRTjTYoL[m
CVdY, V tT] dL[ LVsY BVY SLL YTjp APem.
tT] NnVlTm Ts Gp YdLV[oLd Pdm YiQm,
ARu Rt\m LYmT AUV NnV YiV L AYVUm.
SLL NkRTjRm, SLL YTm LdLoj TVdm. SLL
YToLs UdLu SP, EP, TY]L[ j AYoLu RYV oj
NnV Yim. B]p SLL NkR TjYW, YdLV[oLu RYV
Ak ARuT [mTWm Nn Lj YdLV[oL[ LYoYoLs. SLL
YToLs Ru EPL[ Ye, LPLd tT] Nnm TlT HtToLs.
SLL YToLs RXSd ToY LiPYoL[Lm TPlTVLm
CdL Yim GuT AYVU\. VTW YpSWLm Utm SLL WN]
LiP LXYVL ClT SLL YToLu dV AmNUm.
14.4.1. TYLX SLL YTm
SPl NkR XYWlTm TYLX XYWlTm ApX SPl SLL
XYWlTm ThL[ oYj ThLu LlT Tojd Ls[
YiV AYVUm. TYLX YTm CkV pXW VTWju UkWUL
[eY RoN]m. TYLX YTjp X AXeLm YWmLm Cdm.
CRlTt rdLm YWeLp BWnYm.
14.4.2. p
VUL LjRp
TYLX tT]V ALdL YiUp NkR SP\ Utm
RYL[ pVUL uhV LjdL Yim GuT Lm AYVm.
14.4.3. RdL RQm
TYLX YTm YtVPV RdL RQjR RokRlT AYVm.
Tu NkR XYWjRYV uhV Clp YjlT AYVm.
LXYV] ThL[ Clp YjdLUp Tojd LsYm AYVm.
14.4.4. YdLV[oLs TXm
X NUVeLp SP\p Cdm SLL ThLs J lhP YLV]
YdLV[oL[ Dodm. AR Tp Ut\ TsLs TmYdLV[oL[
193

LYokdm. CR U]p Li LlT YjdLs[ Yim.

ALlTV] LlTV ApX \kR LlTV Yjd Ls[
P.
14.4.5. UXiUp HtTm WfN]Ls
GkR YLV] ThLs YdLV[oL[ LYokdm GuTR] TYLX
YTm YtLWUL AUm GuTR] hPh Lj YjdL Yim.
ALlTV] NWdLs NokhPp, NWdL[ GqY Al\lTjR Yim,
RsT tT] Utm Y Bt\p YL[ VTWf NkRp SP\
TjR Yim. J X pXW VTLs Su YWUL Bi Ym
RYlTm dVl ThLs Utm TYLX ThLs G] TL[
YjlToLs. dVl ThLs GuT] AlTPV] ApX RpRWU]
ThLs G]m, TYLX ThLs GuT] RtNUVm SLL ThL[L
ClTYVL pXW VTL[p tT] NnVlTTY Bm.
14.4.6. BPLu RW oYLm
AL NX NnRu RWjR LdL m GuTpX. EtTjV[oLm
pX\ VTLm TpY X UhPeLp tm TsLu RWjR Tt
[dlToLs. A]j X UhPeLm RWU] TsLs Pdm
GuTR] ]p Yjd Ls[ Yim.

V] p CZL[p SN NnVlT\. ZLs Uk ZLY

ApX dLLY Npm. k BP EYdLjt YhmT
Uk ZLY ApX dLLY Ru YhPlTP Yim. AqY
NVL YhPpX Gp EPV t dd Ls[ LWQUm.
CY B@l Wu (off grain) Gum NNnV VR Gum \lT\.
BPLd AlTPV] . SNu SVm NV] TjRjR
Ldm. EtTjV[oLs X NUVeLp CXT Sdp V YWVdLlThP
\p V YhPUp NXY LhlTjm Sdp YhYoLs.
ClT YhPlTm V] RlTRt L]m UhUpXUpARu EYU
UTh Tnm. KWeLs JeLt\ \m Rn Ldm RuU
LiPRL Cdm. SN SVjp YhPlTm V] EPu RWjR
UmTjm.
RWU] BPLs GuT Ap Cdm NejUtm TdL LLs /
YYeLs CWi NLm JjlTn CdL Yim. CkR JjlTm
`Vm Ru RWjR m. B]p CRt ALlTV] Lm, YhRp
Utm RVd AL U SWm NXYdL Yim.
BP EtTjd TVuTjRlTm Ls, p, TjRuLs, WlTo ThLs,
APlTuLu (zip) YiQeLs Ju\Vu JjlTn CdL Yim.
AlT AUVlTt\p AR] RWju PL Ls[Xm.
u KWeLs WL CQj RjdL Yim. pLs mk
YdLhPUm ApX kdLUm Tojd Ls[ Yim.
194

J BPs Cdm YYUl ARu RWjR UlP ERm.

LjlThP (LXoLs) EPp EWnYRp UUlTL CdL YiV

AYVm.

LLs h UPdYRtLL NhPu LlT TV ALXjPu CdL

YilTRu LL[ UPdmT NhPu LlT UdLh YW
CdU LYdLlTP Yim.

Cl T / Cll ThP UZUZlTLm EPmT tm NU A[p

CdL Yim.

am RVpLs JeLL RdLlTP Yim.

APlt / YRt TVuTjRlTm TjRuLs, lLs, LdLs NV]

\p YX NnV YiV Uhu j EZdm RuUV
LiPRLm CdL Yim. Ls TZVRYu LWQj]p
APlLp CPY YWdP.

J BPu RWjR oQdL AR] ATYod ARu Tkm

RuUV PL Ls[lT\. ATYoLs EhLmTm, SPdmTm
k ok YX NnYRtLt\t Tp AR Ut\m NnVXm Gu\p
ARt ET NXLs NnV Yim GuTR] Ljp Ls[ Yim.

14.4.7. ThLu YTjp CVtL Utm LXLhPju Te

YT NVp\Ls JqY RlThP Y]jp VTW d, ThLu
YLLs Utm ETVdLlThP RthTjR Tj YTm. C
Y]eLu YToLs hPPp YN Utm EYdRp Utm LVi
AR UjR VTLd AolTl NnYRt TlTtToLs. TV
Y]eLu YToLs hPPp YNV Uhm LV[ TlTtToLs.
YYUl FVoLs YYN Y[ofV LYlToLs.
YT SPYdLLu RtLhP AeLeLs hPPp YN : RY]
dLeLPu YLhRu Tm, Tu Y[of UmThPm,
AolTlTm, Rok LsRp Utm EtTj NVpTL[ UtLsYR
hPPp YN G]Xm. CRu ET L[L YT LXYL[ LiPRp, YT
YnlL[ uhV LYjRp, YT Th_hP hPRp, YT PeL[
UmTjRp Tu\Yt\ \Xm.
Y[of YN : GiQPp, V YYUlT EYdRp, Rj YNV
uTtRp Utm RthT YYjR EYdRp BVYt\ CRu ET L[L
\Xm. NdLdV ApX EiUV] YTjR ThLu Y[ofu
Xm hPUj ApX UjR VTWjtL] U Tt\ ThL[
RokRj hPPp YNu SdLjR oj NnYR CRu LPUVm.
YT YnlT LiPk, ARt hPPp YNd NVpYYm LlT
Y[of YNVm.

195

AolTl YN : EstT], UjR VTWm (UjR NkRp tT ApX

tT] WLu Xm tT) Utm pXW VTWm (pXW VTW
LPLPm, \ AeLeLm AolTlT) CRu ETL[m. SP\
NjVdL[ LQdh ThL[ tT]Vm T[L UtY.
AolTdLlThP Tu VTW AXeL[ LQdRm, tT] NnYm
CRu SdLUm.
14.5. SLLjR NkRTjRp Utm YTeLs
ThLu C tT]V RSToLPm, EfNYWm YdLV[Pm
Utm mTjRWoLPm RtLiQL GidLi NVpTYR pXW
VTWm G]Xm. YdLV[oLd NY GuT pXW YTjp dV
AeLm Ydm Ju\m.
14.5.1. pXW VTW Y[of
pXW VTWju Y[ofV A]Ym Ufu\]o. pXW VTWm
LNU] Y[ofV Lis[R s YWeLm Rdu\]. RSTo
YPkW YU]jRm TQdLjRm LQdhPp JqY RSTo Yem
ThLu GidL 1948m YPjk W] Y[ofV Lis[. NY
ThL[ Yem RYp UdLs Ys[m CkRm pXW tT]
Ts[. NY ThLu tT] ALU]p, pXW Ts tT]p
GoU\ [L[ EYdm GuT sVp m Nn.
14.5.2. dLp X
AUdLp SPlp Cdm pXW tT] \ NT YPeLp
TuUPe Y[okkRm, ARu dLX] Xm Y[oklTR AVXm.
ARu pX\ tT] VTWjp X Ls CkRm RtT TX ET
L[ EYdd Lis[. YSh Utm EsSh LWLs CkR
Ut\jR LiYkRm, X WiTP] [L[ GoLXjp EYdLXm.
T[RWm EfNjp CdmT TX ETV U ThL[m
NYL[m T\ m.
14.5.3. RjVem Jt\ LP (Single store Independent)
pXW tT]u A[ Y[ofVPmT X dVU] Utm
XTLWU] [L[ A]j pXW tT]V[oLm APVXm.
RjVem Jt\ LPV] Um Utm Tl (mom & pop) u pXW tT]u
A[ Y[ofVPks[. TpY [L[ LiP LPLu Y[ofV P
C \Y] GuT RoN]m.
RjVem LPLu NkR Te WL \kkRm ARu VTWm
Ts[. CkR YL LPLs WjRUPk Y[ofPV WjVL CPm,
YT RkWeLs Utm NY Nnm Te L dVm.

196

14.5.4. TpY [L[ LiP pXW VTWm

CRu NkR Teu Y[of GoLXjp ALjd LiP Cdm GuTRt
TX LWQeL[ AddLiP TLXm. RthT UmTLs, YN YnlLs,
JeQdLlThP oYLm BVY CRu dV LWQLojRYLm, QeL[Lm
\Xm. [Lu GidLV TdYRp RXU YT NVXLju
TV [LPm jd Ldm \] Lis[Rp YdLV[oLdm,
tT]V[oLdm jR (LsRuT) NYV GRL NnY Uhu
CRu T[RWm Y[ofVP\.
14.5.5. BP ThLu X oQVm
J TdL] YTjtm, EtTj Utm NkRTjRu UjR Rh
BRWeLu RLV Nn\u Xm LQdYRV X oQVm G]
\Xm. J Y]jp CVem A]j u h NX]eLm
TsLu X oQVjp APem.
J Y]ju Yt ARu NX]eL[ TjR AUm. AR]p
NX]eL[ oYj LhdLPeL NnY Lm dVm. RLYpLs Utm
s YWeL[ dLUL NLj ARd Li \UVL oYlT
Y]ju Ytd Y Nnm.
ThLu tT] XV] A]j NX]eL[m Es[PdLm
LiPR]. AlTP TsLu X, FVoLu NmT[m, RtPm
Utm CRW oYLf NXL[ Es[PdV Ju\m.
14.5.6. EtTj X
J U Tt\ Tu EtTjd EiPm A]j NXLm
Es[PdLm LiPRm.
SW Ts LsRp Xp Ls, p, LjRl Utm BPLp
ETVdLlThP AXeLW ThLu XLm APem.
SW YXVhLu Xp RtPjp Tm YXVhLu
(LjRlT[oLs, RVtLWoLs BPL[ U APV NnTYoLs) NmT[m /
APdLUm.
SW Ts LsRp Xm, SW YXVhLu Xm UTm
RuU LiPRm. EtTj ThLu A[Y Tj CYLs UTm.
RodL VR NX]eLs
CkR YL NX]eLs JqY Y]jR Tj UTm RuU
LiP.
1. U\L FVoLs / VhLs, 2. TVuTjRlTm CPm, 3. CRW NX]eLs,
Y]jp NY FVoLs, RWdLhlThj \ FVoLs, ThL[
LVsTYoLs, TTodm FVoLs, TWUl FVoLs Utm TLYXoLs
197

U\L FVoLu ThVm CPm T\oLs. CYoLs NY CuVUVR.

YPL, RnU]eLs LlLs, Nj YLs Utm TLl YNLs BV]
UTPR NXp APem. CVkW E TLeLs, TTojRp, APV[jRsLs
Utm RVtFLs UTm NXp APem. ThLu oYLm, CVkWm
Utm ETLWQeLu X, AW TkR]Ld Bm NXLs CRW NXp
APem.
14.5.7. X oQjR
u XLs
X oQdm UX[oLs / oYLs rLiTYt\ oQVm Nn\oLs.
1. fNdLlThP Xd Lhp YYUlu EtTj Ynl, 2. YYUlu
CXTj\u, 3. Ut\ YYUlT Nodm rX EYU?
EtTjV TpY XLp ThLu XV Li oQdLXm.
1.

J T[ YYUj EYd UL[ RVlTRt u X oQVm

NnY oYeLU] X oQVm G] \Xm.

2.

YYUjRd u X oQlT.

3.

EtTjd u NVpTjRlTm RphT YYUl Xp X

oQlT.

4.

EiUV] XV EtTju Tm EtTjt um oQlT.

14.5.8. YYUl EYdLju oYeL X oQVm

J lhP Rjp RVdLlTm BPLu XV AW\VL ApX
jUlTL oQlT. Lu RWm, Rm Utm RYlTm L_eLs ([
A[) Utm RYlTm GidL Utm AjVYV ThLs Utm LjRl
XV oQlTRm. lhP Rjp RVdLlTm EPLu FVo NmT[m
EtTjV Li LQdPlTm.
14.5.9. YNu XoQVm
ThLu R, SW FVoLu NmT[m Tu\Y RYV] RLu
Xm J lhP Rjp RVdLlTm BPLu RlThP Juu XV
oQlTRm. lhP ThL[ LiPk, Lu _LeL[ ([ A[)
WUdLlTP Yim. BPL[ RVdL RYlTm LX A[Y LQdh
FVoLu NmT[jR oQVm NnVXm.
14.6. RthT YYUltL] Y] X oQVm
lhP R BPL[ RjRj EtTj YNd RVWmT Y]
X oQVm NnVXm. LY]d\Yp PlThP NX]eL[ Cp NodLXm.
ERWQjt ThLu TVo, RWm Utm A[L[ LiP h BVY
RthT YYUlT[oLs YYUlp Ut\jR Li Yk Lu
RY A[Y \dm Tm, dLX] NVXdLjR GTjmTm X
oQjRp Ut\m NnVXm.
198

14.7. EiUV] X oQVjR LiPRp

EtTju T NLdLlThP s YWeLu Xm EiUV] EtTj
XV LiPVXm. EtTj NnVlTm BPLs RVtR[jR APkRm
X ThLu X Lm LPUVL ClTRm, X NVpTL[
uTtYRt AL LXSWm NXP SoYRm EtTj UX[oLs EQoYoLs.
XUt\m Nn NLhmT ThLu EiUV] Xp Ut\m
EiPLXm. EiUV] XV EtTju T UVL LYdL Yim.
W
YeLXm odLUL \kR A[p \U YnkR YToL[
GoSds[. Su u]t\UPkR RthTm A]j LLs, Yem
\u Utm YToLs ERp Su\p Y[oks[. YeLp ERV[oLs,
UX[oLu Tp RthTm ERs[ Tp YTjm RthTm
Bh Nn\. C Tu Ru YeLXjp Yem \m, YToLu
Tm AUm.
]dLs
I.

NV] PVj RokR

1.

______ J RWjR oQdL AR] ATYod ARu Tkm RuUVd

PL Ls[lT\.
A.) LjlThP

2.

B) UUlTL

C) YhPUL

D) SWL

B) LiLh

C) pXW YTm D) SLLm

_ RtNX TXYLV] ______ \V LVs\.

A) TVuTjRp

5.

D) LlT

______ YToLs VTW YpSWLm Utm SLL WN]PV LXYVL

CdL YiV AYVUm.
A) BP

4.

C) BP

LjlThP EPX EWnYRp ______ CdL YiV AYVm

A) Y[k

3.

B) TjRuLs

B) EtTj

C) AXeLWm

D) EhTjRp

______ BP YTm GuT ThL[ tT] Nnm RphTjR

d\.
A) pXW VTLs

B) LoYo

C) UjR VTWm

D) EtTjV[o

199

II. 2 UlTi ]dLs

1.

YTm YWV.

2.

BPYTm YWV.

3.

LiLh YTm YWV.

4.

SLL YTm Gu\p Gu]?

5.

pXW YTm YWV.

III. Ik UlTi ]dLs

1.

LiLh YTju X dV XlThL[ ThVL.

2.

AXUp YdLlTPR Lh Ts Utm APkR _u]p Lh T[m

YTjL.

3.

_u]p Lh Ts Tt Y.

4.

SW Utm U\L YX BhLu V YTjL.

5.

X oQjRu TpY XL[ [dL.

IV. 10 UlTiLs ]
1.

YT NVpThtL] AlTP RYLs Tt [dL.

PLs
1. C

2. B

3. A

4. B

200

5. B

15. BP YYUlp Lu Te
LW
Cu\V Zp BP YYUlj \p LlT YWLX ApX
CAD (Computer Aided Design) Gu\ \ EtTjj RtNXp J WhV
Lrjd Li Cd\ G]Xm. UYm EXLjp, Sd Ss EtTjj
\p UmTjRlThP Ut\eLs YkLiP Ru Cdu\ GuTR UdL
CVX. Um Lp YYUl Nnm \V] RtT LlT
YWLX Nnm UuT]p UtLs[lT\. Um, RjRuUPu
[eLm, ThV[oLu hPjp EfN XV APVm, RtNXLp
EtTj \Ls A]j Lu Xm YYUl] UtLsu\
ReLs LhPVUL CkRL YiV rX Cu\d EY Yu\.
dLpLs kR, LX SWjR WVm Nnm YYUl \k SmU
jd Ls[ CAD Gu\ UuTs ER\. V GiQeLs Utm
A\Ls, TUQeLs APeV UuThLs A]jm Cu
EtTjV[oLdm, BP YYUlT[oLdm GRLd Pd\. BLY
CAD Gu\ UuTu ERV Lm RULm, pVULm,
YYUlL[ EYdL m. YZdLjp CkR TZV \, ARY ToLp
YWm YYeL[, EPX Yjd Li WUjPu UtLiP YXL[,
Y[k Ldm StLp AUokR YiQm ANV YY AUlL[
Lu ERPu Lm XTUL Nn Lidu\ LXjp Sm
Cdu\m. CmUuTu Xm EYm YYUlLs Lm
pVU]RLm, RY]RLm, EVokR RuUPu LiL[d LYm Rjp
Cdu\]. A Uhu, YYUlp Ut\m NnY, RYVp AR
EP]VL Ut\m NnV CkR UuT]p UhU m GuT Uhu,
TX \Lm, TXRd LQeLm, TUQeLm GRLl TVuTj
NVpTjRm ERu\ G]Xm.
15.1. CAD GuT Gu]?
EtTj NnVlTm Tu YYUlT Lu ERPu, ARt
[ Tp NVpTm iTs Xm YWVlTm YYUl CAD (Computer
Aided Design) Gu AZdLlT\. CRl TXY Ts[ NpXL CADD
(Computer Aided Design and Drafting) Gum ApX CAID (Computer Aided Industrial Designing)
GuT LlT YWLX Utm ll TPm Utm LlT YWLXp
RXL YYUl Gum AZdLlTu\]. TVp NokR Ts EtTjj
\pRu CqY AZdLlTu\]. EtTjj RtNXV TjR
YW CAD GuT L YYUl] [dYRtl TVuTjRlT\.
UuTs Utm X SWeLp WjVL YuT[] CADm EsLhPUL
NVpTh Yu\.
15.2. CADu TVuT (Application of CAD)
BP YYUl GuT YYUlT[oLu WjVLd LPU. Ul
ThL[ EYdLUXV, YYUlT[oLu LtT] Ndu C
201

YYUlT CADu Xm EYdLXm. X NUVeLp YdLV[oLm ReLs

RYd Ht\tTp YYUlp, kR]L[m, BXN]L[m,
AWLm YZeYoLs. CYt\ YiQ YWTPeLs XULY, ULs
XULY ApX TPfu GoU\l TPXm (Flim negatives) XULY
LlToLs. CR] Yjd Li BP YYUlT[oLs Lu
ERPu SP\p Ut\m NnV ULp Scanner (hT Nm U) ApX
Digital cameraY (iLh LlTPd L) TVuTjm, JeTjm Cp
Lp YYUl] T\ m.
CAD \Ls TVuTjRlTm RVl / BPj RVlu TpY
TLs (Different Areas of Textiles where CAD Systems are Mostly used)
p YYUl \Ls (Textile Design System)

TmTX] Ls, p NVeLs, NRWQ SNLs, _dLoLs ApX PdLs

Tu\YL[ CADI TVuTj YYUdLXm.
u]XP Ls (Knitted fabrics)

X LlT YYUlu Xm T\lTu\ u]XP, EtTjp

\p \k [em. \ Tt\ u]p YYeLs RVp EYdL
Y\LPu LlT Wp LQ m.
AfPlThP Ls (Printed fabrics)

AfPlTP YiV LYYjR YYUlT[oLu dLdLtT, A[Y

VRdLY, TVRdLY, V YiQeL[d LiP YYUldL[L Zt
Y[dLY, GidLL[ ALdLm Ut\eL[ NnPXm. AS] CADp
ARu Es[PeV UuTu ERu Xm AfPlTP YiV YiQeLs,
Sm LiL[p Lm YiQeL[m, Lu Wp Rm YiQjR
Jjm, R] YYUdLdV Wp YYWs[.
YYL TXL YWTP \ (Sketch pad system)

BP YYUlT[oL[ T] ApX GjR Li u]p CVem

TXL (electronic pad) ApX EXLl TXLp LL[p EYeL[j RYL
EYd Lp Nj Ydm YWTPj RlTm.
GmlWnP \Ls (Embroidery systems)

p RYV] YiQeLs Utm RVpL[ TpY YYjp, TpY

TLp LlT AYVU\. SUdj RYV] YWeL[d Lp
NLj Yj, SU T] Gp NnVXm. vLu NnVlThP
EYlTPeL[m Cp TVuTjRXm.
GiL[d jd Lhm \ (Digitizing system)

C X, Y Gu\ RPoL[ JeQj, RokRjR Af UL[ t

YWVj Afm \Vm.
202

We NnRp (Grading system)

We GuT lhP LR Uk RXdLlThP A[ ApX
\dLlhP A[ UL[j RVdm \dd We Gu TVo. CmUV
SjRW X A[dj RVjR \ \kR X, Rp X U RVjRp
\ UjR EtTjd AYVlTu\]. Y[of sLs G] X sLs
ULu A[Lp ALU TpY EPpA[Ls B] 32/34/36 G]
dLlTu\].
Ko EPu UV Rp SjRW A[L[d Li RVdL Yim.
ARu\L A[Ldd We NnV Yim.

TPm 15.1
APV[d EYdm \ (Marker making system)
Cm\Vl TVuTjmT QY \\. Um YLPV
Lm APV[d Vl TVuTjRXm.
YhYRtL] NVp\ (Cutting Operation)
APV[d (Master making)u YLhRp T RVe Yhm CVkWeLs
TVuTjRlT\.
BLY BP RVlp CAD Nd YnkR, \l AmNm Utm mV TVu
AdLdVRLm Lr\. BP YYUlT[oLd CAD J V YYjR
EYdLm, AR NUVjp \kR TV] AdLdV YLp \kR SWjp
Nn dL ER\. BP RVlu JqY Rm SN CAD,
Afm CAD, APV[d EYdm UuTs CAD Tu\Y
TVuTjRlT\.
203

Manipulation tools

Size range

Unplaced pattern piece

Marker Information

Marker in Progress

TPm 15.2
15.3. LlT YWLX- YuTs Utm UuTs CAD - (Hardware
software)

TYL L YuTs Utm UuTs BVY uYU

YdLlTu\].
YuTs (Hardware)
L YuTs GuT LYdLjRdL LVm. Lu W (monitor),
Hard drive, To Utm NlT (mouse) BV LLs L YuTp
APem. CRW WjVL NR]eL[] hPm YlT (Plotters) GiL[ jd
Lhm AhPYQ (digitizing tables) ApX Afm CVkWm (printers) YuTsLPu
Nojd lhP X YXL[f Nn\.
YuTs CVdm \Ls (operating system)
YuTs Xm UuTu hPeL[ Ak Ls[ ERm Y\V
CVdm \Ls G] \lT\. CqRUn CVdm \Ls UuTs
hPeLPu CQjl TVuTjRlTu\]. X UuTs hPeLs lhP
\Lp UhU CVem (E.m), uPv (windows), (Linux) ]dv ApX Ud
(Mac) BV] CVem \Lu ERWQeL[m.
UuTs (software)
UuTs hPeLs GuT] lhP X YXL[f NnYRtLL
GRlThdm. ERWQjt BYQeLs RVjRp TYL UuTs
hPm UdWN@lh (Microsoft office) TVuTjRlTm. LWp hW (corel draw) Tu\
UuTs hPeLu Xm YYjR EYdLY ApX UtVUdLY
TVuTjRlT\. J UuTs hPju \l TiT], TX RWlThP
NVpTL[ NnVdVRLm Es[. LWp hWY YWYP YYUl
Utm SLL BP YYUlm TVuTjRXm. X UuTs hPeLs J
204

X lhP j \dLLY TPdLlThdm LVj hPeL[m (E.m),

vPod (stork) GuT WjVLU] YYUltLLY EYdLlTh
TVuTjRlTm J UuTs hPUm.
15.4. LdL] UuTs (Textile Software)
Cm\p CAD Tm ER YRp, lhP WjVL UuT[
EtTjm, BP RVjRdm EYdL u\. LXLs, RlLs,
LlTLs Tu\YL[ YYUdL UuTs ClT Tp SLL EPLs
RVdm RtNXp IVlTLd HtT UuTsLu Xm o
LQlTY Tp YYUdLlTh ApX Sn EYdLlThP _dLo Lu
IVlTLdm o Es[. Um, BPLu U YYUlLs Utm hP
AZTjm YpSoLs Utm EjVL NmTkRU]YoLs Xm GRLd Pd\.
L pVUL L[ Yhm \Ls, Yhj hPm \Ls U
YYUlLs, We Utm APV[d EYdRp G] A]jl
Ldm Ls RPoPV JqY TLdm TVh UuTsLs
YZeLlThs[]. CY BP RVlj RtNXp RphTm Nns[
WhVm.
15.5. LlT YWLXu UuTs YLLs (Types of CAD system)
UuTs EYdTYoLs TpY LlT YWLX UuThL[
EYd kR TV] APks[]o. LlT YWLX UuThLs TX,
C TUQ YYUlL[m, lTUQ YYUlL[m Adu\]. EXu
YqY XLp Cdm CYo CQk J T[ YYUj EYdL
LlT YWLX (CAD) UuTs Utm CQVR[m (internet) BVYtu
Xm GRLf NnP NjVm Es[. KVoLs (Artists), CVkW (Mechanical), u]
(electronic) Utm LhPl (civil) TV[oLs, LhPdLX YpSoLs (architects) Utm
LhPju Eh\lT] AXeLlTYoLs (Interior decorators) G] LlT
YWLX UuT[ AYWYo YYUlu NVpTht HtT
TVuTju\]o.
YYUlT[oLs CYLV] LlT YWLX UuTsLs Ju\j
Ro Nn Ls[Xm. RtT TVuTPp Es[ 2-D LlT YWLX
UuT[V ApX Rp hTjX UmTjRlThP 3-D LlT
YWLX UuT[V RokRjd Ls[Xm. X TVuTLd 2-D
LlT YWLX BRWUL [e\. AUTOCAD, CAD KEY, CADDS-5, MEDUSA,
CATIA V4 RV] 2-D LlT YWLX UuTd ERWQeL[m.
15.6. YYUdm UuTs
LWp YWTPeLs, APl [dLlTPeLs, APl ThP `l BV]
TpY \Lp Es[ YYUlT[oLs Utm TpY Y]eLu Yh
UuTp TVuTjRlTh Ym Wj Tt\ hPeL[m.

205

15.6.1. LWp YWTPeLs

LWp YWTPm GuT YdPo YWLhPlTP UuTs Bm. CkR
UuT[ TVuTjmT TVuTjTYo EXLj RWm YnkR [dLlTPeL[
16.7. pVu \eL[l TVuTj EYdL ER\.
dV AmNeLs
AlTP \p Ck [dLlTPeL[ EYdLm. YYUlL[

\lTLf NnVm, vLu NnVlThP YYUlu ThPdL[ AXeLj

TVuTjRm, TX YLp YYUlL[ HtU NnVm TVuT\.

YdPW AlTPVLd LiP YWlTP hPjPu TV jWjRd

LVi hTU] AmNeL[d LiP YWTPeL[ TVuTj
YYUlT \dLf NnVXm.

YYUl Rp hT [dLlTPeLs, [mTWeLs, YLs Utm

CQVR[ YLp Ck RjTU] YYUlj hPjRl T\
\kR LVL Es[.

TVuLs

YiQjp Rt\ [dLlTPeLs

dLX] YYUl YWTPm

SLL YYUl YYeLs

EWhPs[ LlTP YYUl EYm

ANp EYeLs

AU`u YYUl

YYUlLu XLeLs

PUt\ SdLPV EiUl Wp Ck EVo RWU] YWTPeLs

YXTdL YYUl

15.6.2. APl [dLlTPeLs

APl [dLlTPeLs YYUl Utm EY YY UV RVdm
UuT[m. [dLlTPm GuT RVpLWo EYdm SLL TVuTLs
ApX. lhP TVuTLs RW Cum TtTXYt\m APl [dLlTP
UuTs L XTUL jm. CkR APl [dLlTP UuTs
A]jl TL[m NnVdV. YWLhP YYUl, SLL YWTPeLs,
SLL AfdLs, Cum TX, [dLlTP UuTs GuT RXYm, \kRU]
SLL YYUlu RVld LVL SLL YYUlTp RVdLlThP.
RVdLlThPY TU] A[ AL RWjPu SWVL RtNXLd
AlTlTh u WLs Gjj RVdLlTu\]. RthT \p
YWTPm NV]RLm, Y] l[hLm APl [dLlTPeLu XUL
206

NVpTjRlTYRL LRlT\. L Xm EYdLlThP l[hLs dL

JeLUlPu RYRL \lT\. B]p LL[p l[h YWVlTh
CkRp RthTjp Ck Toj YWYRu Xm RYL RVf
NnVlT\.
15.6.3. APl ThP`l
APl ThP `l YYUl GuT pX Y[ok LiP Cdm
Rp ThPY Uh RYVt\R d, lTL YWLhP YYUlT
RtNXLp TVuTj]o. C EiUp, VTWf NkRp j
RYL[m oj NnV GqY\m YYUlT[oLd TRVL
CADI TVuTjR YYL Nns[.
15.7. UL[ RVdm UuTs
LoTo
LlT YWLX, TYL CAD G] AZdLlT\. ARthTVp
LX Utm oLd, Vjp u]VL LrTYo LoTo GuTYo. AYW
LmT R] EYdm U YYUl, We Utm NnRp
BVYtt UuTs Utm YuT[ EYd\. 1960k
LmTLd o LQm, Cu\V RphT LX Utm SLLju YLjt
DNnVm \. LoTu dLs Gu]Yp, YYUlT[oLm,
UL[ EYdTYoLm \kR Zp, YLU] EtTjp \ Tt\
YYUl BPLs Utm ThL[ EYdL ERRp Bm.
LoTu RphT LX, BP, UWfNUuLs, TdYWj, RtNXp
RVdLlTm Ls Utm hlTs RtNXLs Tu\Ytp
TVuT\. RdLlThP T[L CkRp A LoTWp \VL
EYdLlThPRm.
U YYUl UuTs (Pattern Designing Software - PDS) GuT CjR
Utm _oUp TWYXL Es[. Ut\ V YojRL V] Y[of Tt\
UuTs GYp, U EtTj Nnm UuTs Bm (Pattern Generation
Software - PGS).

15.8. LlT YWLX]p HtTm SuULs (Advantages of CAD)

L GRL CVdLdV YYUl \ Bm. LlT YWLX]p TX
SuULs Es[].

TZV \p YNu, EPX Yj NnR YYUlL[ RtT L

XTUL AR NUVjp \kR NXm, SWm QYRd \jm NnV
\.

YdLV[oLs EXu GkRl Tp Ckm NVpTh]d LhlTj

YYUlL[f NnVXm.

207

L Llu Xm (computer files) YWeL[ GRLf Nj, Al

BXN]L[l Ttd Ls[Xm.

Gi YNL[ floppy disc, Zip disc, CD-ROMLp ApX hard driveLm Nj

CPjR fNlTjRXm. Um CYt\ GRL AUj YLUL
NVpTjRm, oTjRm m.

YYUlL[ GRLl TZLm, RlThP \p GkR SWjm

jReL[f Nn Tlt RVo NnmT NX ALULUm, SWm
WVULUm NnV m.

YYUlT[oLs JqY \m U YYeL[ VRL EYdLj

RYpX. H]p RtT J lhP ApX BP TpY
YiQjm, YYjp GqY Rt\Udm GuTR Lu Wp
Tojd Ls[Xm.

W
CADu StTV]m, TVuL[m U]p Li, LlT YWLXu
UuT] RokRdmT Lm GfNdL EQoY NVpTP Yim.
SmPm Es[ YuT[ JjlTm UuT[j Ru Ro NnV
Yim ApX YuT[ V UuTd RkR Tp UmTjR
Yim. LlTV CVdTYd TV Tt AjRpRu TVuL[
YUL APVm. LY]jPu NV] UuT[ Ro Nn
Lj\p Tt Tt\ YpSoL[d Li NVpTm TRu j
RtNXp RLYp RphTj\u WhLWU] TXuL[ AYoL[
Yp CkRTV ATdL m GuTp Ut\pX.

]dLs
NV] PVj RokRj GL.
1.

CAD Gum _________ L WYLm pVULm LVl TVuTj

YYUlT EYdLl TVuT\.

A) u]
2.

YWLhP
TVuTjRlT\.
_________

A) ThP `l
3.

B) GXdhd
YYUl

B) CAD

C) UuTs

D) YuTs

Utm

YYUlm

SLL

C) LWp

D) Gm CpX

GkR J sp YYUlT ALdL Yim.

A) Y[ofls

B) LW KWeLp

C) TdL sLs

D) Ut\lThP Gm CpX

208

4.

U YYUl UuTs _________ Gu\ CPjp TWYXL Es[.

A) _oU

5.

B) CjR

C) CkV

D) A Utm B

YWeL[ GRL Nj Yj, KPjp Ck Ut\ CPjt Ut\

_________ XUL NnVlT\.
A) YuTs LlLs

B) UuTs LlLs

C) A Utm B

D) L LlLs

2 UlTiLs
1.

CAD Y.

2.

AfPlThP Ls [d.

3.

We \V [dL.

4.

LWp YWTPju 5 TVuThP GL.

5.

APl ThP `l [dLm.

5 UlTiLs
1.

CAD UuTs Utm YuTs [dL.

2.

CADu SuULs GY?

3.

LWp YWTPju dV AmNeL[ [dL.

4.

U RVdm UuT[ [dLm.

5.

APl [dLlTPeL[ [dLm.

10 UlTiLs
1.

BP YYUlu TpY Lp CAD \ TVuTjYR [dLm.

2.

YYUl UuTsL[l Tt [d GL.

TpLs
1. C

2. C

3. A

4. D

209

5. C

16. [mTWm
ALm
GkR CRZl Wh]m, SRZL, YW, eLs, LXi, AWVi CRZL
CkRm, V, SjRW, TV CRZL CkRm, YhPW, UX, RV CRZL
CkRm N Ru A[tm, Ldm HtT [mTWeLs YhlTRd
LQXm. RtT CRrLs UhUpX Y], RXdLh, CQVR[m G]
Ut\ FPLeLm [mTWeLs NnVlTu\] GuTR AV \.
[mTWm GuT FPLeLp dVU] Es[PdLl TLp Ju\hP.
NnLs, LR, LhWLs, TPeLs YPlTYRl Tu\ [mTWeL[m
Yu\]o.
[mTWjR, tT] NnRp Gu \Xm. tT] Gu\ Np AL T[
tT,. Um LoYod U]\Y AjRp GuTRm. tT]p Ko
Es[PdLl TRu [mTWm.
Nn ApX RLYp GuT NRVjp RtTs[ T[RW Zp Lm
X UdL VR J Y[ULd LRlT\. NnL[l Tt Rk LsY
GuT NLjp Es[YoL[ EUVm. H]p Nn GuT T[RW
NVpT Utm ARu Y[ofVj iY]YL Es[. YojRL NYp
RLYXl TWYfNnY GuT Lm dVjYm YnkR. [mTWRWoLs ReLs
Xm tT]V] Tu TVo ApX NY Xm LoYoLs GqY
TVu AP\oLs Gum J lhP jWs[ T[, FPLeLs Xm
Yel TV]PY Tu\Ym Cp APem. FPLm GuT UdLPm
LiNpm dV NR]Um. Y], RXdLh, NnjRs, SRr
Utm CQVR[m, Nn LrfLs BV] TpY YLV] FPLeLs Bm.
[mTWju Xm SpX TZdLYZdLeL[m, tfZp Tt lQoYm
YjR m.
16.1. [mTWm YWV\
[mTWm GuT \kR NXp, \Vl Td AYoL[ YeLj im
YLp LjdL[, ThL[ TL[l Ttd LYofVL Npu\ \Vm.
[mTWm Nnu\Yo ARtLLd LhPQm Nju\]o. AYW RXVV
[mTW SdLm, Ru tT] Nnm Ts TtV YWeL[ UjR
NRVjtL ApX J NRVjtL Aj tT]Vd hYRm.
16.2. SdLeLs

pX\ tT]V[oLdj Q NnV

J Ts ApX NYV j NnV.
EP]V] tT]d
Tu h TVo Utm jWV EYdL
VTWjp Tu XV ALlTjR
210

V ThL[ Clj RLYp ApX ARu \lVpLs Tt

YlTjRp
RVl Y]eLu SmTLjRuUV EYdRp

EP]VL UdLs YeU NVpTjR.

YojRLjp TeL[ TdL.

V ThL[ ALlTjR.

V Td UiP EYdL.

Tu \l RuUV AdL.

16.3. [mTWeLu Ls
JuT L[ LiP
16.3.1. EtTj Ts [mTWm
J lhP Ts YLu RYV EYdYR [mTWju TY],
Ti Au lhP TVWd LiP T[ LlTjYRL
CdLdP. J Tu tT] [mTWjp h TVd AL
dVjYm LdL Yim Gu\ RY\] GiQm Es[. C Y]eLs
TtV \kR GiQjR, StTV] Ts [mTWjp HtTjm Gu\
AlTPV] GiQj]p HtThP B]p, YZdLjp X lhP
Y]eLu ThLs ARu h TVWp Ts tT]p u]VL
[eu\]. (ERWQjt PhPp, aodv, AoRgNu) eLf Nu]p
GkR J EtTj T[V ApX NYVV J Y] [mTWju
Xm tT] NnY EtTj Ts [mTWm Gu \lT\.
16.3.2. Y] [mTWeLs
CqYLV] [mTWeLs YdLV[oL[ UhU Yj
EYdLlTYpX. U\L TeRWoLs, LPu Rm Y]eLs Tu\ TpY
UdLdl TY]Yt\ Ydm [mTWeLs Bm. ThL[ UhU
NokR [mTWeL[L CpXUp, Y]eLu SmTLjRuUV UuU APVf
NnYRtLL NVpTu\ [mTWeLs Bm.
16.3.3. AlTPp RYlTm [mTWm (Primary Demand Advertising)
C J V TdL ApX Ts YLdL RhlThP LlTjm
YLp YPlTm [mTWm Bm. CkR [mTWm TmTm J T[
ALlTjm LXjp ALUL TVuTjRlT\.
16.3.4. Ro NnVlThP ApX ThVL NnVlTm [mTWeLs (Selective
or Competetive Advertising)

J Ts Y[oflTp Y[m Zp Ru Th BWmTUm. BLY,

AkSWjp [mTWm RokRdLlTP YiVRL Es[. Ce [mTWm NnYRu
dLs GuT J lhP Ts ApX NYV ALdLf Nn\.
211

ThLu L[ ]jRm, V h Ut\eL[ Es[Pd

EYdYRt AL AjRm LdLlTh [mTWm NnVlT\. ThLs
JW UV]RL ClTRp ThL[ Ht\m T\f NnV X Ru AfNVLl
TVuTjRlT\.
16.3.5. Jlh [mTWeLs (Comparative Advertising)
NTjV ThLs kR [mTW Ljp CqYLV] [mTWeLs
NofNdVRL [e\. CWi ApX ARt UtThP, lhP hl
TVo LiP ThLs ApX NYL[ JuPu Juu X, RWm BVYt\
JlYp AL dVjYm LlTR Jlh [mTWeL[m. RWjm,
Xm, JjR ThLs NkRp Cdm ThNjm, LmTh XmTm
ThLs EfNLhPjp Cdm RYm Jlh [mTWeLs
TVuTjRlTu\].
16.3.6. h\ [mTWeLs (Co-operative Advertising)
EtTjV[oLs, UjR tT]V[oLs, pXW tT]V[oLs Ju\L
CQk TlTt, [mTWeLd NXYm RLV Tehf NnYR
h\ [mTWm Bm. CkR [mTWeLp Y]l TVoLm, XNm Utm
CQks[ A]YW TVoLm APedm. YdLV[oLs LiQhPjp
h\ [mTW \ Lm TVs[RL LRlT\. H]p, ALWloYU]
tT] XVeLp Ck EP YLL[ Xd YeYRt h\
[mTWeLs YdLV[oLd Lm ERYRL AUu\. (ERWQm : LRo
TYu, LBlPdv)
16.3.7. YL [mTWeLs (Commercial Advertising)
CR] VTWjtL] [mTWm Gum \Xm. CkR [mTWju TVdLt\
tT]V TdYRt [mTWm ER\.
16.3.8. VTW SdLUt\ [mTWeLs (Non-Commercial advertising)
CqYL [mTWeLs Ri Y]eLs Xm YPlT\. TY]
Utm Thm Th ERL[l T\ Cq[mTWeLs YVu\]. (E.m)
Yp, LX LrfLdL] hLs tT].
16.3.9. SW SPYdL [mTWeLs (Direct Action Advertising)
ThL[ EP]VL tT] NnV YdLV[oLd AjRm,
Fdlm Lj NnVlTm [mTWm SW SPYdL [mTWm Bm.
SWVL LReLs Xm [mTWm NnYRp ThLu, EP] tT]V
ALdL AL Ynl Es[.
16.4. [mTWju YLLs
16.4.1. RXdLh [mTWm (TV advertising)
ASL YLf NnLs, ALU] UdLPm Nu APVdV WTXU]
FPLUL RXdLh [mTWm [e\. CkR FPLm YXL ALUL Yem
212

\m Tt\ UdL[ Nu APY J TdLm CkRm, U\m RXdLh

[mTWjtV LhPQm Lm ALU] Bm.
16.4.2. Y]
[mTWm (Radio Advertising)
Y]u YXL JW SWjp YL [mTWeLs A]jm ALU]
UdL[f Nu\PVdV FPLUm. Um, Y] [mTWm lhP CPjp
Ym JjR WN]PV UdLPm Gp Nu\PVdV \kR RuU YnkR
G]Xm.
16.4.3. AfhP [mTWeLs (Print Advertising)
CRrLs Utm NnjRsLs J Ts ApX NYVl Tt UdLPm
TWlYRtL] Ut\ \kR YVm. J lhP Tp Ym UdL[m,
ApX TY] BoYm LiPYoL[m NnLs Nu APVdV RuU
YnkRY AfPlThP [mTWeLs. TV LhPm LhV [mTWm Utm Y
[mTWeLs AfPlThP [mTWeLs APem. Y[mTWeLs \kR
LhPQjRm, LhPm Lhf NnVlTm [mTWm Nt ALdLhPQjm AfhP
[mTWjp NnVlTu\.
16.4.4. BuXu [mTWeLs (Online Advertising)
BuXu [mTWm YLjR TjR ALUL, TVuTjRlTm WTXU]
\Vm. BuXu [mTWm GuT TX \Lp NnVlT\. T]o
[mTWm GuT EYeL[ YlTdLeLp TLhPLd Lij [mTWm
NnYRm. CQVR[m TVuTjYu RRp YhPp AYo Rm
Td [mTWm RWlThP Ts JjlT]p, AR] EP]VL Wp
RU YYUdm A[t WTXU] s [mTWeLs.
16.4.5. TXL [mTWeLs (Bill Board Advertising)
T CPeLp TV AUlLp LlTV [mTWeLs / TXLLp
T UdLu ToYp TmT AUdLlThlT TXL [mTWUm.
SgNXLp TXL [mTWeLs TYL YdLlThdm.
16.4.6. Es vRT] [mTWeLs (In store Advertising)
LPLds AUdLlTm [mTWm Es vRT] [mTWm Bm (E.m) J
vRT]m jRlTjm Ts Ju\ RLj RVj ALm NnV SokRp
LPLd tT]d AlLp Lhd Yj [mTWm NnYoLs. CqY
NnY Y]jt LYofLWU] LhVL AUk, V Td A]YW
LY]m DodLlT\. T]oLm, Lhl ThLm LPLds [mTWm
NnYRu \ YLLs Bm.
16.4.7. YnY [mTWeLs (Word of Mouth Advertising)
CXYNUL YnYVL [mTWm NnYR [mTWm G]d LR V Gu
YhPm, C J X UlpXR, SmTLjRuU kR Bt\p YnkR
VTWjR TdL dVU] \Vm. VTVp YnY [mTWjR
213

T\ VR Xp YdLV[oL[ Fdj ReLs LPp YeLlThP

Tu RWm, NY Tt SiToLs Utm mT El]oLPm Gjd
\fNnm dVm.
16.4.8. AeLWm (Endorsements)
YnUVp EVo TYRt CQV]RL CkRm, CRtl TQm NX
NnV Yim. J Ts ApX NY AeLWjR J LrTt\Yo Xm
ALlTj]p AlT[l TtV lQo Utm tT]m ALUm.
B]m A YNlThVp Es[ LrYnkRYoL[d Li A]j
Y]eL[m ARu RVlL[ ALm Nn EVojR V. Y]eLs
AYoL[ TYr UdLd ALU]YoL[ Yj ThLd VTWf
NkRp AeLWm T\ Y Nn Ls[Xm.
16.5. [mTWeL]p HtTm SuULs

[mTWm YdLV[u AYt\X UuU T\f Nn\.

NkRp ThL[ GRL ALlTjR ER\.

tT]u A[Y ALd\.

vRT]m Utm Tu SmTLjRuUV EYdL ER\.

Ts TtV RLYX Ak Ls[ ER\.

ThLs Utm NY TtV lQoY EYd\.

tT] XV TWUdL CV\.

Ts Ll Utm VTWjp ThP RLu RjR ALd\.

YdLV[oLs TpY ThL[ Jlhl Toj SuU, UL[ Ak

Yem NkRolTjR HtTjj R\.

RVlT[oLs Utm YdLV[oLs CPV SWj RPo HtTjR

ER\.

EtTjV ALj ALU] A[p YX YnlT HtTj\.

W
[mTWm GuT ALUL NXY HtTjm \Vm. Sm Nnm
[mTWju StTX] E NnV Yim. BLY AVp NokR [mTWeLs
LY]UL hPPlTh NVpTjRlTh AlTRd AlT LiLdLlTh
LhlTjRlTP Yim.

214

]dLs
I.

NV] PVj RokR

1.

tT] UmTht \kR L G?

A) LPu StTVo
C) [mTWm

2.

GqY[ [mTWjt AL NX Bm?

A) RXdLh

3.

B) ToYd YjRp
D) NL X

B) Y]
D) YnYf Npm \

VTW [mTWm GuT

A) YL [mTWm
C) BuXu [mTWm

5.

D) BuXu

GqYL [mTWjt \kR NXYm?

A) AeLWm
C) AfRp

4.

C) AfRp

B) Y]

B) YLm NW [mTWm
D) SW SPYdL [mTWm

GqYL [mTWeLp LrYnkRYoLs dVjYm TYo?

A) YL [mTWm
C) BuXu [mTWm

B) Es vRT] [mTWm
D) AeLWm

II. 2 UlTi ]dLs

1.

[mTWm Gu\p Gu]?

2.

[mTWju SdLeL[ [d.

3.

EtTjl ThLu [mTWjR ERWQjPu [d.

4.

\kR\ [mTWm Gu\p Gu]?

5.

Jlh [mTWjRl Tt ERWQjPu l YWL.

III. 5 UlTi ]dLs

1.

[mTWeLu dVjYm V?

2.

[mTWeLu YLL[ [d.

3.

ThLu [mTWm Utm Y] [mTWjtV YTh] GL.

4.

[mTWju SuULs VY?

5.

RXdLh Utm Y] [mTWeL[ ERWQjPu YTj GL.

IV. 10 UlTi ]dLs

1.

[mTWm jR NnL[ YdL.

215

17. Rp ]Yo RXU UmT

uW
JV VTWjR RPe AR Y SPjY TX CPoTL[m
L]U]/LNU] VtVm Es[Pd NnRpRu J XV]R
GoLi VRu EYdLlT\. J V VTWjR RPeYRu
BWmT LX CPoL[ RodL m. J V VTWjR EYd AR]
Y[ofVPV NnYp AkR Rp]Yo TX TlL[m, CPoTL[m
Nkj Rdlj ZjRpRu LNU] CXTjRm dL[m APV
m. YdLV[oLm, VTLm, AW FVoLm P oYLj \U
BoYUL Es[]o GuT RoN]m.
17.1. YWVjRp
Rp ]Yo GuTYo J Y]jR EYdTYo GuTm AkR
Y]jR EYdLf Nnm Y \Ls Ru oYLj \U GuTRm
AVXm.
fNVUt\ rXp V Utm UX] YLu Xm SpX Gdm
\Uu Xm NVpTYRV oYLj \U Gu D.C. McClelland

YWVjs[o.
YYUjRp Utm NVXdRp TlTt CPoTL[ j VTW
jL[ LVi J VTWjR BWmlTRu oYLj \U Gu
Encyclopedia Britannica YWVdu\.
u]d ToYPu R Utm EtTj YnlLs, Y]jR JeL
Nn V RVl NVp\, RhP TdRp, YXVhL[ d

AUojRp, XlThL[ LQoRp Utm Y]ju Au\P YXL[

LYj oYdm UX[oL[ VjRp GuT J oYu YX Gu
Benjamin Higgins YWVjs[o.
17.2. Rp ]TYo GuTYo Vo?

NkRUL J Y]jR EYd, Y[ofVPV Nnm STo.

fNVUt\ rXp LNU] CPoTL[m, BTjL[m UtLi

R] CXdL APm STo.

UL[

EYdTYo/UtLsTYo.

LY]jPu V P VtV RPok NnTYo.

EV] EkRPu RjRuUV WTlTYo.

WkRWUL UX] NVpTL[ NVpTjR VpTYo.

CVkW YrdLVm/im im UtLsm YXL[m YlTYo.

L]U] NYpL[m/YrdLVm GoLs[ RVWL ClTYo.

216

17.3. Rp]Yu YXLs

NkR YnlL[ EQokRYo.

\kR BRWeLs/Y[eLp BdLm Nj CXTm APTYo.

Y]jts Tm UR E\L[ UXiU NnTYo.

ThL[ NkRTjTYo.

ThL[ NkdL NNnj NVXdLm LlTYo.

AW \]Pm RPo YjlTo.

V oYlTYo

NVp\L[ UmTj, ThLu RWjR EVojTYo.

YdLV[oLs Utm Y] RVl ThL[ tT] Nnm

tT]V[oLu E\L[ oYjRp.

V EtTj \ Utm ThL[ ALlTjRp.

CPoTL[m / BTjdL[m Nkdm U]lTe

Y]jR Je NnRp Utm oYjRp.

17.4. RjRuU YnkR Rp ]Yu QeLs

Nj LhP YiV AjVYVm

EVokR Bt\dL] AjVYN RY
RjRuU
BTjR] / CPoTL[] L[ Gdm CVpT] Qm.
RtLXjRV S] VRt\m.
BRWY Tm NVpTLs
VTW vRT]o
RXU TlTt\p
TUPu V EV] U]lTe
RXUu O]jR YlTjm NVpTLs
Th U]lTuUV YlTjm U]lTe
NVpTLd V TlTt\p
GoLXjR Sd CQj TVjRp
GolLm XV] CPjR RdL Ydm ]l

J XUV YnlTL Utm RuU

17.5. Rp ]YoLu Ek Nd LWLs

Lpu iQ

Rp ATYm

Rj NVpTm GiQm
217

EtTj \p DTm GiQm.

mT u]

AW ER

Y]eLu ER

RthTm Utm XlThLs Pdm RuU

XTj RL YWV\

V Tl Htd Lsm GiQm.

GoLX SP\ NjVdL[ GoTojRp

7.6. J SpX Rp ]Yu QeLs

McClelland Ljk....

ANRWQ AV TPlTt\p

BTjRm CPoTL[m Tt LYXlTPUp CVem CVp Qm

NdL RYlTm E
Prof. Tandon Ljk....

BTjdL[
Rp

dm \U.

A Utm Ut\jt Um U]lTe

BRWeL[m /
JeTj

Y[eL[m NV] \p YLTj YSPjRp

oYdm \U.

17.7. Rp]YoLu YLlTLs

Rp]Yo Ik YLlTYo.
1. UL[ EYdm Rt]YoLs
AW TNR] NVpTLp Wm Utm LYdLjRdL NjVeL[
SP\ Tjm jNjR]m.
2. Ut\YoLu TV Rj Gjd Li uTt u ERWQjR
LPdm Rp]YoLs
SpX SP\L[ uTtYoLs. CqYL Rp] YoLs WhLW
UQYoLs Gu LRlTYRp ALm RYlTTYoL[Lm Cd\oLs.
3. LV hl /Rp]YoLs
CqYL Rt ]YoLs AL LY]jPm, BTjp dd
Ls[dP Gu\ U]lTuUPu NVpTYRp, Y]ju URpL[
Roj NVpTTYWL Es[]o.

218

4. RslTm U]lTuUs[ Rp]Yo

EtTj \p Ut\m HtTjYRp SxPm HtTm.
5. LhPVju LWQUL Rp]YW]YoLs
LX rX LWQUL LhPVlTjRlTh Rp]YoLs B]YoLs.
17.8. Rp]Yo RXUu RYLs
RPofV] Rp]Yo RXUm, T[RW Y[ofm AjRh
NLj]Wm, NL Rp ]YWm CQj, UR Y[ Bt\X Td
AYoLu NL, T[RW Utm AWVp rXp SoU\ Ut\jR
EYdm. CYL[ rLm SP\p NdLXm.

T] TTL[ Td S\TjRp.

Rp ]Vm Utm Rp ]Yu \UL[ Y[lTjRp

UdLd RtLpp Tt Aj UmTjRp.

HZLu V Lil ThLd XL hP LlU T\

T Nn TR[WjR LYjRp.

TiLdm ZkRLdm BWdVm UmTjRp -o, LRWm

CPmTm

CVtL BRWeLs EhTP WUl\ Y[eL[ oYjRp

lhP Y[eL[m BRWeL[m LiP ]oLu \]

ALjRp

RPo CQl AlTP SPYdLu Xm EXL Ut\jR HtTjY.

NY Sdp UeLd AjRp

17.9. Rp]Yo RXUp u XTLs

YnlL[ TVuTjd Ls[ VTW GiQeL[ (ThLs /NYLs)

LiPRp/NkR YnlL[ AeLjRp

Cdm Y[eL[m / BRWeL[m Li CPoTP] YnlL[

NRLUdL Y SPjRp.

Ekm RuU LiP VTW GiQeL[ NVpTjmT SP\

VTWjR JeTjm SPYdLL[ EYdRp.

17.10. hP APV[m LRp

TkR]m s YWeL[m NLj, Rj, TjRnk Rp
RPeYRtL] TXU] YnL[ APV[m Li YnlL[ Y[ofVPV
NnY Ru hP APV[m LRp G]Xm. VTW GiQju Xm
YnlL[ EV] T[Lm ApX NYVLm Ut]p Tm XTjR
APVXm. C UlT EYdm NVXm. JYu VGiQjRm \W
GiQjRm Y[oj (A) Td J V SpX GiQjR TPdLXm. UL[
219

EYdRu Xm/VTW GiQju RPp Xm YnlL[ APV[m

LQ m.
ULu YLLs
1. hPlThP ULs: Cdm BRWeL[ UVL TVuTj YdLm
NnRp.
2. SpYW ULs: UL[ j VTWju EYjRV Ut
ALlTjm U.
3. GoTWR Ut\m HtTjm ULs: VTWju AlTPVV Ut
Tm NpYjR EYdm V RtNX, YL[ HtTjm ULs.
17.11. Rp]Yo RXUu oYLjp hP APV[m
u dVjYm
LiPR

SeLX [L[ GtTjm RuU LiP.

Gp Ut\ VR TlL[ LiP.

GiQeL[ NVp YYUL UtRp.

T[RW Y[ofd hPeLs Tm Ek Lp

UR Nd, R Utm XlThLs Tu\ BRWeL[m, Y[eL[m

NV] YLp TVuTjRp.

UlT hm NVXm, Shu RhPm Tdm Bt\p Tt\.

NRV-LXfNW Y[ofV HtTjRp.

AlTP LhU] YNL[m, tl\ rXL[m EYdm \u.

17.12. hP Rt]Yo RXU oYLju hPU] A[YLs

Rhu A[

hPju CPm

ETVdLlTm RphTm

ETLWQeLs

NkRTjRp

17.13. hP EYdLp/Rp]Yo RXU oYLju hdLhPLs

UThP rXp CVeLV / NjV hP GiQeLs CpXU.

RoN]U] / APVdV dLsLs CpXU.

GiQeL[ SP\p NjVlTjR VR BRWeLs (A) Y[eLs /

AlTP LhU]eLs CpXU.
220

AWu
Rp

LsLLs / NhP TkR]Ls ApX LhlTLs.

RPeL ERL[ T\, SV Utm LUV] Y\Ls.

17.14. hP EYdLm / Rp]Yo RXU oYLju XLs

1.

NjVdL[ BWnRp (hP EYdLju Rp X)

2.

RthT - T[RW \]n (TsLu / NYLu RYV Ul

Nnm GiQm)

3.

hP YYUl Ut\m RPo CQl BWnRu Xm hP EsYeLp,

RYV] Utm XT Ul TtV RLYpL[ YNVL AVXm.

4.

Es \]n LhU]ju Tm NVpTjm Tm RYV]YL[

BWm X

5.

X BWnRp - hP Ul, SP\lTjm Ul Utm RYV]

RLV CkR X YlTjm.

6.

Ul - TV] RWl BWnRp: JqY TeLlT[u XTjRm

TehPm YlTjm XVm.

7.

u-Rh BWnRp: CkR X hP TeLlT[oLs / YZeTYoLs, hP

NVXdTYoLs Utm Y BXN]V[oL[ HtdLs[m/WLdLm
ERm XVm.

17.15. rdLm RLYpL[ YZem hP AdL

T[RW X: Cu\V NkR X, Y[ofdL] YnlLs, RhP

VVlTjRp.

RphT X: RYV] RphTeLs, CVkWeLs, ETLWQeLs.

X : RYV] UjR R, Rp]Yu TeLl, RkW

R Utm mTl Tm R.

EtTj X: ThLu TWeLs, AkRl T[ RokRlTRtL]

VVlTjRp Utm HtU YnlL[ [dm X.

oYL X: oYLjp ClTYoLd RYV] LpjR, u ATYm

Tt m X.

hP AdLLs Y]eLd Xm Utm CRW NLLdLL

NUoldLlTm BYQUm. Rp NY Cuvhh (Small Industries Service
Institute) Ut\m Rp Y[of LZLm (SIDO) Rt ]YoLd hP
AdLL[ RVdL ERu\. Y]eLs hP AdLL[ BWnk,
NUoldLlThP hPm TU] V jR LXLhPjp mT NjR CVU
Gu Foj YoLs.

221

17.16. oYLm GuT Gu]?

J VTWju / vRT]ju V NV] \p oYj RYV]
dLs / CXdL APY Ru oYLm.
ARu dV dLsLs:

VTWjtLL R /NpYjR EYdRp.

TQjR TdRp

CPoTL[ Ljp Lim R NnR BRWeL[ Ljp Lim

RYV], TU] RhP mTl TY.

17.17. oYLjp NVp\u dV u BdL Ls

17.17.1. X hPRp
VTWjt RYV] RQjp Ls CdmT oYLs EjWYRm
NnV Yim. \kR LX RYdL], ETLWQeLs, ClLs, FVoLu
NmT[m Utm LPu Ldm ThLdm JdLlTP Yim. UjU LX
Utm SeLX RYL[] EtTj \u YdLm Utm NmTdm \tLL
JdLlTP Yim.
17.17.2. X LhT
X LhlThu dV NV]p VTWju dLsL[ APVf
NnVXm.
17.17.3. X GjRp
VTWju Xm T\lThP CXTj RLV RdL Yjd LsYR
ApX RhP[oLd CXTlTeLL jd LjYR GuTRl Tt
GjRXm. CXTlTe Lm ALUL Ck AR jd LjhPp
im VTWjp R Nn YU]jRm AL XTjRm APV
L]lTP YiV AYVm Ym.
17.17.4. Th_hu Te

J Y]ju CXhV TVQju VVjR YlTjm AvYWju

J TRu Th_h.

X TkR]u Xm J Y]ju CXdLm dLsL[m

Nnm APV Y Nnm \.

YU]jRm NXL[m J lhP LXjt TYL, 1-2 YPeLs

LQdm \Ru Th_h.

GoToj ApX j TQZdLjR Uhu TQlZdLjR LhlThp

Ydm \.

222

17.17.5. X RNWeLs
J vRT]ju NVpThPm XUVm hdLhRp Xm
RNWeLs Rj m. X AdLLu RLYuT CkR RNWeLs
LQdPlTm XYWjR Bn Nn Ut\ Y]eLu XV Jl
Nn LQdP X RNWm TVuTm. X NUVeLp GoLX Yp
XVm lTk RV ERm.
17.18. LQd YZd jRLm
X TUt\jR TNn dm jRLUm, tT], YeRp,
YU]m, Utm LdLp YeLpL[ T Nnm jRLUm, TYL J
LQdL[oRu CR T NnYo.
17.18.1. RtNX RPeYRtL] TLs
VTWju

[dLm

Ts/NY
CVePm/Rt
NkR

RPePm

hPm

Th
X

oQVm Utm tT]

[mTWm

Utm UdLs RPo

oYLj

hPm

oYL hPm.

17.18.2. VTWju [dLm

C u TLeL[ LiP. TLm 1 VTWju [dLjR Npm
TLm. TLm 2 ReL[ Ts ApX NYV YlTjY. TLm 3,
VTWju CVePjR RlT.
17.18.3. Ts/NY
ReLu ThLu (AXX) NYLu Xm YdLV[oLd Pdm
AXeL[ RlTRm. YdLV[oLu RY Utm YdLV[oLu
GoTolL[ YtLWUL NVpTm VTLd Rkdm.
eLs

GR tT] NnoLs.

EeL[ Tm, NYm GqY YdLV[oLd AXUL Cdm?

GkR

Ts (A) NY AL RYp Es[? RPok TQYW CdU.

GkR

Ts ApX NY GqYLp UTh, mTjRdLRL Es[?

223

17.18.4. CVePm
J VTWju Yt RpV ARu CVePU Nnm Bt\p
LiP. YdLV[oLu ALUm, Gp APVdV CPjm
TLl GiQjR HtTjm CPjm AUVlT\ Yim.
17.18.5. tT] hPm
J VTWju Y] TVQjt Q tT tT] hPmRu Gu\p
LVL. CRW V VN]LPu GqY ThL[ NkR TjoL[
ARu Yt RpV oQdm LWVL AUm. YdLV[oLs
l YlL[m, GoTolL[m Rk YjlT tT] hPju
AlTPVm.
17.19. ThLs
ThLs GuT YrdL \VhP. EXL NkRLs, SLs Th
Th LilT Tp R VTLm Thu\]o. RphT
u]t\m J YtLWUL CVem Y]jRd P, CXT TehP \j
AkRoTp AdLf Nn rjm Bt\p LiP. CR]m Ut\ L[m
LQdp Gjd LiPp, VTWm GuT AL Ths[, XVt\ AWeLm
GuTR NnVXm. CkR XVt\ RuU]p EeL[ ThV[oL[
Rk LsYm, AYoL[ LYlTm AYVU\.
17.20. X oQVm & tT]
ThV[oL[ NUj VTWjp YtT\ ERY XoQV
dVm. EeL[ ThV[oLs X oQVm Gu\ dV LVs\oLs
Gu Ak LseLs. ARu AlTPp EeL[ X oQVm CdL
Yim. AR Tp Ru NWN Rjp EeLs X oQVm Cdu\R
GuTRm TodL Yim.
X oQV dLs
pX\

X Utm X oQVm

Thm

ThV[oLu

XV P \Y] X oQVm.

ThV[oLu

XV P ALlTV] X oQVm.

NWN

RNWjp ClT

UThP

X oQVm

RVld
NY

RYdL] ThLu X (NY VTWjt UhU)

X, ElTLeLs Utm CRW X

BhLs

ALlTV]

NXLs (U\L NXLs)

224

17.21. [mTWm Utm UdLs RPo

[mTWm, EVoRm VTWju EoSVL LRlT\. [mTWjRm
RPo CQlL[m Li, hPh VTWjR TdL CVm.
17.22. oYLj hPm
J VTWjR oYdL G]d S] RX Gu\ GiQm BNm
Uhm CkRp TR. U] AoTl, WkRWj RuU, Gdm
\U, Utm FVoL[m, XUVm oYdm \Um Yim.
Th_hP NVpTjRp
NkR

NXLs

LlLs
YPL
RnU]eLs
LPu

APl

[mTWm /
NhPm /
CRW

EVo APRp

LQd YZdLs

NXLs

EYem
NmT[
f

TdL] NXLs

NXLs

NXLs

ETVL

NXLs

TdLs/NkR/LhPQm
YLs
T

Utm TWUl NXLs

17.23. X oYLj hPm

hPjt

R NnRp

ThL[m, NYL[m EYdRp

ThL[ Tk jRp.

NjdL[
Y]jR
Y

t\p, YeLp Utm TLjRp

CPjt UtRp

TlL[ Ht\p.

17.23.1. RWdLhlT
RVl \p Cdm A]j LWLu RWjRm UTX] Nn
UmTjYR RWdLhlTPm. C u dV XL[ LiP.
225

dV BdLdL[] LhlTLs, ToYLm, YWVdLlThP, Su

oQjR NVp\ SPYdL, JeQl Utm TYLs LiPRp.

Th U]lTuU, ARY A, \U, u ATYm Utm Lpj R.

UuUV] BdLdL[] SoU, SmdL, Y] LXfNWm, FdjRp,

]Pm JjZl Utm RWU] E\Ls.

17.23.2. hP oYLjp RWdLhThu Te

hP UX[m, hP ]m dLlThP YXLp GoTodm RWm
Cdu\R Gu TX] Nn AR ELkR RWjt LQWf NnY hP
oYLju LPU. B]p SP\p CqY CpXUp, RWdLhlTdLu\
J WjVL Um NVpTh RWdLhlThP LiLj YY RoN]m.
RWdLhlThu Xm J Tp/hPjp RYV] RWjt Ut\lTYR
AlTP SdLm Bm. CR \lTjR Vm A]j NVpTm
RWdLhlThds APem.
W
Rp]Yo RX SPjYRtL] A]j Ak YjjRp
AYVm. ALU] EtTjV HtTj VTWjR TdYRtL] A Utm
\uL[ Td NV] ThL[ YeRp. T[RW, YW NX LQd]
TNnRp, Utm FVoL[ UXiU NnRp Tt AkjRp AYVm.
Rp]Yo Gu\ APV[j] VTW AhPLs Utm XhPo ah
LiP jRLeL[ Yj [mTWlTjRXm. V ThdLs LoYo Cdm
CPeLp GpXm AUdLXm. Nl[VoLs Utm LvPUoLPu YLoLs
RPo Yj Ls[ Cu\V RphTm ERLWUL Es[.

226

]dLs
I. NV] PV RokRdLm

1.

2.

X TUt\jR TNn lT.

A) Tp LQd YjRp

B) LRjp LQd YjRp

C) jRLjp LQd YjRp

D) U]p LQd YjRp

Utm EVoRp VTWju EoSVL LRlT\.

A) NkRp tT]

3.

4.

C) tT]

D) YeRp

UL[ EYdTYo
A) EulTL LYlTYo

B) UjR tT]V[o

C) Rp ]TYo

D) CpXjR EYdTYo

oYLm GuT vRT]ju NV] \p oYlT Bm.

A) V

5.

B) [mTWm

B) Y[eLs

C) ThLs

D) YU]m

YrdL \VhP
A) ThLs B) LoYo

C) UjR tT]V[o D) RVlT[oLs

II. UlTi ]dLs

1.

Rp ]Yo RXU Gu\p Gu]?

2.

Rp ]TYo YWV.

3.

UXiUu dV BdLdLs VY?

4.

Rp ]TYu 4 TL[ G.

5.

Rp ]Yo RXU oYLj hPju A[YL[ ThV.

III. 5 UlTi ]dLs

1.

o oYL NVp\u u BdLdL[l Tt GL.

2.

RtNX RPeYRtL] XLs TLs VY?

3.

Rp]Yu YLlTLs VY?

4.

Rp]Yu RXU oYLju hP EYdLju XLs GY?

5.

X oQV dLs XYt\ Tt GL.

IV. 10 UlTi ]dLs

1.

\kR Rp]TYu TiL[ Tt G. Rp]Yo RXUu

RYLs Utm u XlTLs Tt GL.
227

brKiw I
1. nkah uh ((Magyar Frock))
mKf
il 1 Kj 5 tius bgFHijf ma Toa cilahF. njh
gF if gF ko (Fold) Mf fhzgL. L gF ghthil mikJ
ijfgoUF. fGJ gF fhy myJ ig mikJ ijfyh.
bghUjkhd J tiff
gh, nghl gU Jf, kW ng uf J tiff.
njitahd J ms
cil cauij ngh uL klF kofhf 5 br. J njitgL.
msf
kh Rws

= 22

gho cau

= 9

ghthil cau

= 12

ifs

= 2

nkif Rws

= 8

tiuKiw (gho gF)

AB = CD = _yhjhu rJu tiuJ bfhs
AB = CD = nk gho cau
AC = BD = kh Rws ghf
AE = fGJ mfy = 2
AF = KfGJ MH 3
CH = if s 2
CI =nkif Rws ghf
CI -F izahf HJ tiuJ bfhs
CH = IJ rk
HK = Kdif Rws
DL =

JK =

KL gf ghfij I tahf izf. gl csJ ngh

EFCHKLBE = ghf
GFCHKLBG = K ghf
SG = neiH ir
228

TPm 1

A
Ul
S
Ul

E
G

1 i

G
B

K
J

TPm 2
L D
C

[m

2 iLs

TPm 3

G
B

D
229

ghthil gF
AB = CD = ghthil cau + 1 koF
AC = BD = RUfF njitahd L Rwsit ngh mfy
SG = neiH ir 2 klF
kh JLf
njh gF koghf Ugjh K, ghf JLf
izJ fhzgL. vdnt gho JL

-1

ghthil JLf

-2

wF nghJkhd bgh JL, f go JLf

-2

fGJ ghfF uh
ijF Kiw
1.

fhj khia J J itJ u ijgjF ghthill

izgjF nghJkhd l L gho gFia bto vLj.

2.

if Xu koJ bA brj

3.

gf ghffis nrj u ijj

4.

w fGJ gF w bto bgh JL, f go w ijj

5.

fGJ Xu uh bfhLJ koJ bA brj

6.

L RwsF Vg ghthil gFia RUf itnjh, kof miknjh

ghold izj.

7.

ghthil Xu koJ ijJ Kof.

230

2. nah uh ((Yoke frock))

mKf
j cilia 2 taJ Kj 4 taJ tius bg FHijfSF mayh.
cil nk gFia nah vW ghfij ghthil (Skirt) vW miHfyh.
fGJ gF ekF Ugkhd fhy myJ ig ijfyh. M nAh gF
g itJ ijfgL ghgjF f mHfhd njhw ju ToaJ. beR gF
kh myJ u ntiy brayh.
bghUjkhd J tiff : bkikahd gU Jf, mnfhgh, ng uf
Jfis njbjLfyh.
msf
kh Rws

= 22

nah cau

= 4

njh mfy

= 10

ghthil

= 14

if s

= 5

nkif Rws

= 10

tiuKiw (nah gF)

AB = CD = nah cau
AC = BD = nah kh Rws ghf
AE = fGJ mfy 2
AF = fGJ MH 1
AG = K fGJ MH 2
AH = njh mfy gh
HD =nkif Rws ghf
BI =
DI = nah tot
FEHDIBF = K ghf
GEHDIBG = ghf
SG = neiH ir

231

TPm 1
Vod T
E

F
G

Ul

B
I

LT

2
iLs
D

Ul

TPm 2

H
2 iLs

G
F
TPm 4

vLoh T

GC
H

F
S

2 iLs

G
B

TPm 3
232

E
D

ghthil gF
AB = CD = ghthil cau + 1 ko
AC = BD = RUfF njitahd mfy
EF, GH = ghthil btlgl M nAh tis
AF, CH = 1
SG = neiH ir
ifgF
AB = CD = if s
AC = BD = if mfy gF
AE = tis gF
EF = gf ghf
if cau 1/3 ghf
DF =
kh JLf - sf
K ghf nah JL

- 1

ghf nah JLf

- 2

nf JLf

- 2

if gFf

- 2

w ijf ng J

- 1

igo JL

- 1

fGJ gFF uh JLf

ijF Kiw
1.

K, nah gFfis ijgjF nghJkhd l L bto vLf.

2.

K nah JLf njh gffis izJ ijf.

3.

fG w bto bgh JL f go w ijj.

4.

nf gF nah msF bghUjkhd RUf itj.

5.

nahFl izJ ijj

6.

if nkgF, Xuf RUf mikJ ig ijJ gf ghf

izJ ijj.

7.

jah bragl if gFia gho kW nah btlgLs M nAh

msF bghU ijj.

8.

gho gf ghffis izJ Xu koJ ijJ Koj.

233

3. u nahFl Toa tl ghthil ((FROCK))

mKf
j cilia 3 taUJ 8 taJ tiu cs bgFHijf mayh.
cil nk gho gF tl totkhd nah bto vLJ L mnj l
izJ ijfgoUF. LUJ KHfh tiu ma Toa tif tl
ghthil (Umbrella skirt) mikJ M nAh gF Ugkhd if mikJ ijJ
bfhsyh. f mHfhd cilahF.
bghUjkhd Jf : gU kW uKs bkikahd J tiff,
ng ur J tiff njbjLfyh.
njitahd J ms : cil cauij ngh 2 klF+if s +10 br..
msf
kh Rws

= 24

gho cau

= 9

nf cau

= 12

if s

= 3

njh s

= 10

nkif Rws

= 9

L Rws

= 51 br.

gho gF
ABCD =_yhjhu rJu tiuJ bfhs
AB = CD = gho cau
AC = BD = kh mfy ghf
AE = fGJ mfy 1
AF = fGJ mfy 2
AG = K fGJ MH 2
AH = njh mfy ghf
HI = nkif Rws gh
IJ = gf ghf
DJ =
GF = KL tltotkhf btlgl nah gF
SG = neiH ir
EFHIJBE = ghf JL
GFHIJBG = Kghf JL
GFKL = tl nah
234

TPm 1

A
L H

E
G

Ul

2 iLs
E

TPm 2
B

TPm 3

D
A

C
Ul + [m

S
Ul + [m

2
iLs

Ul

TPm 4

D
235

F D

if tiuKiw
AB = CD = if s
AE = tis gF
EF = if gf ghf
AEFB = if gF
ghthil tiuKiw
AB = CD = 4 Mf kofgl rkrJukhd J
EF = L Rws ghf
BC = Xu tl gF
OD = ilbt nfhil koJ btlyh
FC = EB = ghthil cau
kh JL sf
K gf JL - 1
K gho Jo bto vLfgl nah jL - 1
gf JL - 2
if JL - 2
wF ntoa JLf
fGJ Kogjfhd JL
ghthil gF
ijF Kiw
1.

Kj gho khia itJ njh, gf ghff nghJkhd l L

bto vLf.

2.

Kw bto vLj nahF gFia L gho gFnahL izf.

(uil J gagLj)

3.

njh, gf ghffis nrJ izf.

4.

jah bragl if gFia gho gFl izj.

5.

fG btlgl wig bgh JL f go ijj fGJ Xu

ig ijj

6.

btlgl tl ghthil Xu jhf koJ ijj gho L

gFl nrJ izJ ijJ Koj.

7.

cilia Kiwgo koJ mGj bfhLj.

236

4. miu ghthil ((Half skirt))

mKf
5 taJ Kj 10 taJ tius Wf m Mil MF. LUJ
KHfhYF rW tiu mayh. L gF rhjhuz ko myJ bgo
ko itJ RUf nk gF go itJ ijfgL. g Uilf
Kiw ijfgL.
bghUjkhd J tiff : rW jokdhd , fh, blfhl, ghal
nghwit cgnahfyh.
njitahd J ms : cil cauij ngh 2 klF ko kW
goF njitahd J njitgL.
msf : cau = 19 + 2 koF
tiuKiw
AB = CD = cil cau + koF 2
AC = BD = L 2 klF
SG = neiH ir
kh JLf sf
K gf JL - 1
gf JL - 1
go JL - 1

TPm 1

237

[m

2 iLs

B
TPm 2

ThP i
TPm 3

ijF Kiw
1.

ghthil gFia koF l L bto bfhs.

2.

uL JLf caufis nrJ izj.

3.

L lJ gf ghf rkkhd w ijj

4.

L RwsF Vg kof itj

5.

L gF Fl ms mfy go mikj

6.

gf ghffis izj

7.

cil cauij msJ Xu koJ ijj

8.

njit Vglh gf iz ghbf mikfyh. wig _o ijgjF

ng gagLjyh.

9.

Kiwgo mGj bfhLJ koj

238

5. bs ril (ghthilF)
Plain Blouse (For skirt)
mKf
rhjhuz RUf cs ghthil, miughthil nghw cilfSF nk
rilahf mayh. a, bga bg FHijf ma Toa cilahF. if e
Uggo Filahfnth, skhfnth itJ bfhsyh.
bghUjkhd Jtiff : gU J, gL, btbt, 2/2, th1, mnfhgh
kW ng uf J tiff cgnahfyh.
njitahd J ms : cil cau + if s tiw ngh 2 klF + 10
br.. nghJkhdJ.
msf
cau

= 15

kh Rws

= 24

njh mfy

= 11

if Rws

= 10

if s

= 6

tiuKiw (KJL)
ABCD = _yhjhu rJu tiuJ bfhs
AB = CD = cau + 1 koF
AC = BD = kh mfy ghf
AE = K fGJ MH 3
AF = fGJ mfy 2
AG = njh mfy ghf
GH = nkif Rws ghf
HD = I rkkhf J I Ff
IJ =

HJD = gf ghf

EFGHJDBE = Kghf JL
SG = neiH ir
tiuKiw (JL)
ABCD = cau + 1 koF
ACBD = kh mfy ghf
239

TPm 1

G
E

1 i
S

2 iLs

u
T

Ul

Ul

u
T

F
B
TPm 2

B
TPm 3

C
S

E
2
iLs
TPm 4

G
B

F
240

AE = fGJ MH 1
AF = fGJ mfy 2
AG = njh mfy ghf
GH = nkif Rws ghf
HD I rkkhf J I Ff
IJ =

HJD = gf ghf

EFGHJDBE = ghf JL
SG = neiH ir
tiuKiw (if gF)
AB = if s + 1 koF
AC = BD = if Rws gF
CE = 1/8 ghf kh Rws
EF = gf ghf
DF =
kh JLf
gf JL

-1

Kgf JL

-2

if JLf

-2

bgh JL f go wF 2 JL,
fGJ gFF FWF JL
ijF Kiw
1.

kh go izF nghJkhd ms J L bto bfhSj

2.

K, gff njh gFia nrJ izj

3.

K, gf KG s lh mikJ gf ghffis nrJ ijj.

4.

K gf l w bto ng, igo w ijj

5.

fGJ gF uh bfhLJ koJ ijj

6.

jah brJ itfgLs if gFia ghol nrj izj.

7.

Xu nghJkhd ms koJ ijj.

8.

w gF mKF bghjh myJ bfh fhJ itJ Milia

ijJ Koj.

241

6. rhjh nrh ((Choli))

mKf
rW tajhd bgkf m cilahF. L tiu ma ToaJ.
L gF rk ms go itJ ijfgoUF.
bghUjkhd J tiff : gU, th, 2/2 nghw bkikahd Jtiff
bs myJ btis w Jf njbjLfyh.
njitahd J ms : cil cau + if s tiw ngh 2 klF +
10 br. ms.
msf
cau = 14
kh Rws = 30
njh mfy = 13
ifRws = 11
ifs = 8
L Rws = 25
tiuKiw (KJL)
ABCD = _yhjhu rJu tiuJ bfhs
AB = CD = cau + 1 koF
AC = BD = kh mfy ghf
AE = K fGJ MH 4
AF = fGJ mfy 3
AG = njh mfy gh ghf
GH = 1/6 ghf kh RW+ 1
DI = 1

HI = gf ghf

EFGHIBE = Kghf JL
tiuKiw (JL)
AB = CD = cau + 1 koF
AC = BD = kh mfy ghf
AE = fGJ MH 3
AF = fGJ mfy 3
AG = njh mfy gh ghf
242

TPm 1

C
G

E
E

Ul

2
iLs
TPm 2

u T
G

2 iLs
u T

TPm 3

G
D

Ul

E
2 iLs
TPm 4
D

B
243

GH = 1/6 ghf kh RW+ 1

DI = 1

HI = gf ghf

EFGHIBE = ghf JL
if tiuKiw
AB

= if s + 1 koF

AC = BD = if mfy ghf
CE

= 2

AE

=tis gF

EF

= gf ghf

DF

= 1

kh JLf sf
ghf cl JL- 2
Kghf cl JL - 1
if ghf JLf

-2

w kW fGJ ijgjF nghJkhd JLf

ijF Kiw
1.

kh cj bfhL ijgjF nghJkhd l L gho kW if

gFfis bto bfhs.

2.

K, gho gFfis xW nrJ njh gffis izJ ijf.

3.

K Jo gl csJ ngh 3 lhfS gho gF 2 miu lh

ijf.

4.

gf ghffis nrJ izf.

5.

if Xu koJ ijj gf ghffis nrJ izf.

6.

jah brJ itfgLs if gFia ghol nrJ izJ ijf.

7.

K gf ghf bgh JL f go w ijf.

8.

L gF 1 mss go mikJ ijj.

9.

fGJ XuF uh bfhLJ koJ ijJ Kof ntL.

10. wig _o mikf bfh fhJ gagLjyh.

244

7. fnrh ((Cutcholi))
mKf
J bgf m cilahF. lit m nghJ j nrh
gagLwJ. clYF bghUjkhd Kiw ma ntL.
bghUjkhd J tiff : th, gU, gL, btbt, bl ,
mnfhgh mg, 2/2 nghw midJ tif Jfis gagLjyh.
njitahd J ms : cil cau + if s ngh 2 klF + 5 br..
mss J njitgL .
msf
cau = 14 + 1 koF
kh Rws = 30
njh mfy = 13
L Rws = 25
if Rws = 11
if s = 8
tiuKiw (Kghf)
ABCD = _yhjhu rJu
AB = CD = cau + uh bg (go)
AC = BD = kh mfy ghf
AE = K fGJ MH 4
AF = fGJ mfy 3
AG = njh mfy ghf
GH = 1/6 ghf kh RW+ 1
DI = 1
JB -KI = goJL

HKI = gf ghf

EFGHKJE = Kghf JL
JKIB = go JL
SG = neiH ir
F
KghfUJ bto vLfgl goia Kw lh ijj wF L
goia izJ l.
245

TPm 1

G
G

u
T

E
S

S
E

1 i

Ul

H
2
iLs

u T

4 iLs
B

I
TPm 3

TPm 2
C

A
S
Ul

E
TPm 4

G
B

F
246

tiuKiw (ghf)
AB = CD = cau + 1 koF
AC = BD = kh mfy ghf
AE = fGJ MH 2
AF = fGJ mfy 3
AG = njh mfy gh ghf
GH = 1/6 ghf kh RW+ 1
DI = 1
HI = gf ghf
SG = neiH ir
EFGHIBE = ghf JL
tiuKiw (ifghf)
Kgf gho gF

- 2

uh bg (go)

- 4 JLf

gf gho gF

- 1

if gF

- 2 JLf

w kW fGJ XuF njitahd JLf

ijF Kiw
1.

kh cj bfhL ijgjF nghJkhd l L ghogFf kW if

gFfis bto vLj.

2.

Kghf gho Jo UJ uh bg (go) gfia bto vLJ Xu kL

ijJ itj.

3.

K gf gho gF gl csJ ngh lh mikJ ijj.

4.

L gho gF goia itJ izj.

5.

w gF bgh JL f go ijj.

6.

K gho gFfis xW nrJ njh gffis izJ ijj.

7.

ghf gho gF gfF xwhf uL lh mikJ ijj.

8.

gf ghffis nghJkhd l L izf.

9.

if JLf Xu koJ bA brj gf ghffis nrJ

izj.

10. jah bragl if gFia ghol nrJ izj.

11.

fGJ Xu FWF JL bfhLJ koJ bA ija ijf.

12. Kofgl Mil w gF bfh fhJ mikJ ijj.

247

brKiw - II

1. miufh ril ((Shorts))

mKf
g brY Wtf ma Toa cilahF. L gF bg (Belt)
ma Toa tif go mikJ ijfgoUF. UUJ KHfh
gFF nkyhf mikUgjh eF Xo isahl Toa tif trahf
mikUF. tyJ, lJ gff ghbf itJ ijfgl ntL.
bghUjkhd Jf
rW jokdhd J tiff, , fh, bl, blfhl nghwit
bghUjkh UF.
njitahd J ms
90 mfyKs Jahf U cil cau + koF mfy Fiwthf
U cil 2 klF cau + ko
msf
cau

= 10 + 2 koF

Rws

= 32

= 14

= 18

go cau (Belt)

= cau 1

Xg cau

= 6

tiuKiw (Kghf)
ABCD vw _yhjhu rJu tiua
AB = CD = cau + koF 2
AC = BD K o gh
CE = 1
CF = xg cau 7
BD F izahf 2 nkny FJ
G vw ne nfhL tiua
GH =
FH =fh gf ghf
DG = 2

248

GB = GD = koJ btlyh
S.G= neiH ir
AEFHDBGA = Kghf JL
tiuKiw (ghf)
ABCD vw _yhjhu rJu tiua
AB = CD = cau + koF 2
AC = BD o gh
CE = o mfy 1/3 gF
CF = tis 7
BD F izahf 2 nkny FJ
G vw ne nfhL tiua
GH =

FH =fh gf ghf

E = vw UJ 1 ca EI = 1
I vw ia FJ gf tisit caj
A ia Il izf
F : gf L rW caJ fhzgL.
1.

5 Xg JLf bto bfhs.

2.

rJukhd Jia koJ gl csJ ngh ghbf ijJ bfhs.

3.

L Rwsnfg go mikf.

4.

Kw Xg gF bghjhD, bghjh JthuK mikfyh.

kh JLf
K ghf JL

= 2

ghf JL

= 2

Xg JLf

= 5

ghbf JL

= 1

go (Belt) JL

= 1

ijF Kiw
1.

khia J J J ko, gf iz Kw mikf ntoa

RUf (Pleats) w mikf ntoa lh (Darts) tF nghJkhd l
L bto bfhs.

249

TPm 2

TPm 1

TPm 4
TPm 3

TPm 5

250

2.

tyJ gf K JLf cau gF (pocket) itJ ijf. lJ gf

gFY thnw bra.

3.

Kw RUf (Pleats) gF lh (Darts) ijf.

4.

fh gf ghffis nrJ u bg ijf. tyJ, lJ ghfij

nkgo ijj lJw UJ tyJ w _Lgoahf ng, igofhf
Xg ijJ Kof.

5.

tisfis nrj bghUjkhd go (Belt) mikJ ijf.

6.

fh Xu koJ ijJ Kiwgo mGj bfhLJ Kof.

Dv GuT EPp A[tm, EP A[tm CPp Es[ jVNm Bm.

251

2. o.r ((T.shirt))
mKf
Wtf Kj bgat tiu Mf m cilahF. J jsahd
MilahF. ma ehLf bgfS mwhf. jnghJ e ehoY bgf
mwhf. KJF gF nah itnjh myJ yhknyh ijfyh. fGJ
gFa neuhd fhy (Stright collar) bl fhy mikJ ijfyh.
bghUjkhd Jtiff
ghal, gU, blfhl, g
njitahd J ms
cil cau + if s ngh 2 klF 25 br. mss J
msf
khRws

= 26 - 66 br.

cau

= 17 -43 br.

njh mfy

= 10 -26 br.

nkif Rws

= 10 -26 br.

if s

= 5 -13 br.

tiuKiw (Kghf)
AB = CD

= _yhjhu rJu

AB = CD

= cau + koF 1

AC = BD

= kh Rws ghf +
Kghf Xg koF nrJ

AE

= K fGJ MH = 2 5 br.

AF

= fGJ mfy = 2 5 br.

AG

= njh mfy ghf

GH

= nkif Rws ghf

HD

= I rkkhf J I Fl

IJ

= EFGHJDB =KJL

HJ.D

= gf ghf

S.G.

= neiH ir

252

tiuKiw (ghf)
AB

cau + koF 1

AC

BD=kh Rws ghf

AE

fGJ MH 1

AF

fGJ mfy = 2 5

AG

njh mfy ghf

GH

nkif Rws ghf

HD

I rkkhf J I Fl

IJ

HJ.D

gf ghf

S.G.

neiH ir

EFGHJDB

KJL

tiuKiw ifgF
AB = ifs + koF nrJ
AC = BD =nkif Rws gh
CE = 2 5br.

DF = 1

BF = Kdif Rws
EF = gfghf
tiuKiw fhy
AB = CD = fhy cau 3
AC = BD = fhy mfy
DF = 1

AE =

kh JLf
Kghf JL - 2
ghf JL - 1
if gFf - 2
fhy JL - 2

253

TPm 1

TPm 2

TPm 3

TPm 4

TPm 5

254

ijF Kiw
1.

khF Vw j ko, ijaYF nghJkhd l L K, JLf

if, fhy, ghbf nghwit bto vLj bfhSj.

2.

K JLf njh gffis izj

3.

Kw Jo lJ gf ghbf mikj

4.

gf ghffis nrJ izj

5.

if Xu koJ bA brJ, gf ghffis izj

6.

jah bragl if gFia ghol bghUJj

7.

fhy gF fGJl iz gF ju kw _W gFfis nrJ

izJ

8.

ey gf rtu Ua ril fGJ gFnahL nrJ izj

9.

Kofgl Milia mGj bfhLJ koj itf.

255

3. ig#hkh ((Pyjama))
mKf
il at Kj bgat tiu m ghf cilahF. rhjhuzkhf
o UF nghJ u gLF bghGJ mwhf. Munjr kf
ghuga cilahF. rhjhuz xg is Xg itJ ijfyh. L gF
ehlh myJ vyho mikJ ijfyh. Mf ma Toa vikahd
cilahF.
bghUjkhd Jtiff
fhlh bka th, fj, gU Jf bghUjkh UF.
njitahd J ms
5 taJ WtDnfwJ
cil cau + koF nrj 2 klF J 1 lUJ 1 tiu
msf
cil cau = 22 + L ko, fh koF 4 = 26 66 br.
Rws = 32 82 br.
tiuKiw
ABCD = _yhjhu rJu
AB = CD =cau + ko + L go
AC = BD = Rws ghf
CE = 1
CF = Rws 1/3 ghf
DG = 2 5br.
FG = gf ghf
BG=Kdfh Rws
AEFGBA=K JL nrj iz
S.G. neiH ir

256

ijF Kiw
1.

khgo ijgjfhd l kW koF l L bto bfhSj

2.

fh Xu koJ ijj

3.

gf ghffis F.G gFia jjahf nrJ izj

4.

tyJ, lJ gf Xg gF tisfis nrJ u ijj

5.

ehlh nfhgjF Vw ms rkkhd w ijj L gFia koJ ijj

6.

ehlh nfhJ ijJ Koj

TPm 1

TPm 2
257

4. fjh gh
mKf
bghJthf tlehL Mf j cilia bgJ U mt. jnghJ
e ehoY nr ehfY, rhjhuz ehfY j cilia Mf mJ
tUwhf. btis, s kr nghw ml wkyhj J tiff
ntiyghLf brJ fgLwJ.
bghUjkhd Jf
gL, ghal, d nghw bkikahd J tiff
njitahd J ms
cil cauij ngh 2 klF + if s kw njitfSF 20 br. tiu
njitgL.
msf (4 Kj 5 taJ tius WtDfhdit)
cau

= 19

kh Rws

= 26

if s

= 15

nkif cau

= 10

2 s mfyKs fr JL
tiuKiw
ABCD = _yhjhu rJu
AB = CD = cau + ko 1
AE = fGJ mfy 2
AF = fGJ MH 1
AG = K fGJ MH 3
AC = njh mfy ghf
CH = nkif cau ghf
C= Chest 1
ABCD = gf iz JL
AC = 1

BD = 3

258

tiuKiw (ifgF)
AB= ifs + 1 koF
AC = nkif cau gh
DE =
CE = if gf ghf
BE = Kdif RW
gf iz, if gFia ghol izj
mF gF fr izJ ijfgl ntL.
cil lJ w ghbf mikJ ijf ntL.
kh JLf sf
gf JL

=1

K gf JL

=1

if JLf

=2

gf izig JLf = 4
Kw fo w ijgjfhd JL J
fGJ XuF uh JLf

TPm 1
259

TPm 2

TPm 3

u u
i

Ul

[m

TdL CQl i

LNh
4
iLs

TPm 5
TPm 4
TdL i
LT 2
LT

TdL i

260

ijF Kiw
1.

kh msgo nghJkhd l L bto vLj.

2.

Kj K, gff njh gF u & bg ijj

3.

ifgFl gf izfis gl 1 fhzgLtJ ngh nrf.

4.

ghol nrJ iz.

5.

njh gFl rtu koJ mF gF fr itJ ijf.

6.

K fG nghJkhd ms w bto ikl w bjhlahd w

ijf.

7.

fGJ Xu uh bfhLJ koJ ijf.

8.

if Xu gho Xu js koJ ijf.

9.

gf iz ijF nghJ js Xg 2 msF ijf.

10. ijJ Kofgl Milia mGj bfhLJ koJ ijf.

261

5. Rojh ghl ((Salwar))

mKf
rth f vgJ bghJthf a bgfsh gy MLfshf ma gLw
xU cilahF. rth nghJ jfhyF Vg totikfgLwJ, KHfh
rilahf mfykhd RUff mikj mfykhd fhrilahf gagLwJ.
rth mfykhd gugs bfhl bg nghw L gil mikJ
RUffSl jhuhskhd mtjF trahf ghgjF mHfhf csJ.
bghUjkhd Jf
gU Jf, gh, nguf Jtiff
u fzho ntiy bragl Jtiff
njithad J ms
2 myJ cauij bghUJ 2 J njitgL msf
15 taJ bgfSnfwJ,
cau = 39 100 br. + koF 2
Rws = 60
tiuKiw
ABCD = _yhjhurJu
AB = CD =cau - Lgo cau
AC = BD o ghf 15
CE = 5 13br., EF, fh gf ghf
BF = BD ghf
A1, A - A1, C = go Jo cau
A1 nenfhL ACF izahdJ
ACEDBA = jJL
A, A1, A1, C goJL
S.G.neiH ir
kh JLf
gl csJ ngh go JL 1
go cl izahj JLf 2

262

TPm 1

ThP i

Ul + [m

ThP [m

TPm 2
Cl Ul

Ul KWm

263

ijF Kiw
1.

khF bghUjkhd tif RUf, ijaYfhd l, ko

nghwitfSF ngha l L bto vLf.

2.

fh gf ghffis nrJ izf.

3.

Xu fh gFia koJ ijf. ko gF fdkhf Ugjfhf 2 _W

tir au ija ijfyh.

4.

ghlJl mfykhd L goia izj

5.

Kw ehlh nfhF msF rkkhd w ijf.

6.

1 msF koJ ijJ ehlh nfhf.

7.

ghl + go izF nghJ uL _W RUf mikfyh.

264

6. Rojh lh ((Kameez)
mKf
rth f vgJ bghJthf a bgfsh gy MLfshf
magLw xu MilahF. rth jfhyF Vg totikfgL bgfsh
magLw Kakhd cilahF. il mtjF brsfakhf
ghgjF mHfhf fhzgL. skhd jsthd rilahF. f vw brh
fhah vw y bkh brh UJ bgwglJ.
bghUjkhd Jf
gU, k, gL nghw midJuf ng J tiff
njitahd J ms
cil cauij ngh 2 klF + if s
msf
cau = 30 76 br.
kh. Rws = 24 61 br.
nk if Rws = 10 25br.
njh mfy = 9 23br.
L Rws = 20 51br.
ifs = 6 15br.
tiuKiw
ABCD = _yhjhurJu
AB = CD =cau + ko =
AC = BD kh Rws ghf
CE = KfGJ MH = 3 7 br.
AF = fGJ mfy - 2 5br.
AG = njh mfy ghf
GH = nkif Rws ghf
HI = kh Rws ghf
IJ = 1 IK = kh Rws ghf
D-D1 = 2

K-D1 = gf ghf

D1-L1

E,F,G,H,J,K, L, D1, D, B,E Kghf

265

S.G. neiH ir
G.H.ilbt nfhL Kif F
tiuKiw - ghf
ABCD = _yhjhurJu
AB = CD =cau + ko
AC = BD kh Rws ghf
AE = fGJ MH = 1 4 br.
AF = fGJ mfy - 2 5 br.
AG = njh mfy ghf
GH = nkif Rws ghf
HI = kh Rws ghf
IK = kh Rws ghf
IJ = 1 K-D1=gf ghf
D1-L-1
E,F,G,H,J,K, L, D,B,E ghf
S.G. neiH ir
tiuKiw (ifghf)
AB = CD = ifs + ko 1
AC = BD = nkif Rws gh ghf
CE = 2 5 br.
DF = 1 FB = Kdif RW
EF = gf ghf, AE =ilbt nfhL ifF
A,E,F,B,A =ifghf
kh JLf
gf JL 1
Kgf JL 2
ifghf JL 2
w, FGJ KogjF ntoa J

266

TPm 1
TPm 3

TPm 2

TPm 4

Ul

Ul

Ul

u
i

u
i

267

ijF Kiw
1.

khia itj cilia bto vLJ bfhs.

2.

K, gff njh gFfis nrJ izj

3.

K gff nghJkhd lhf ijj

4.

w gF bghJL f go mikj

5.

gf ghffis nrJ izj

6.

LgF 1 mss go mikJ ijj

ifgF
7.

if Xu koJ ijj

8.

gf ghffis nrJ izj

9.

jah bragl if gFia ghol nrJ izj

10. fGj XuF FWF JL J bfhLj ng myJ ig bfhL

ijJ Kof.
11.

gl csJ ngh K.L. gFia wghf ijj

268

7. yh r ((Slack shirt))
mKf
atf Kj bgat tiu m Mil MF.ifs njh
gilUJ kfL tiu UF. if W gF f ikl w
mikUF. fGJ gF be ngL fhy itJ lJ gf ghbfmikJ
ijfgoUF. il mgtUF bghUjkh fukhd njhwK jU.
bghUjkhd Jf
fhl, gL, ghal, bl, g
njitahd J ms
cil cauij ngh 3 klF + 20 br.lU njitgL.
msf
cau

22" 56 br.

kh. Rws

24" 60br.

njh mfy

10" 25br.

nkif Rws

10" 25br.

if s

15"

f cau

2"

nah cau

3" 8br.

tiuKiw (Kghf)
AB=CD

cau + koF

ACBD

khRws ghf

A1, A

Xg ko mfy

A1, B1

Xg ko cau

AE

K fGJ MH 2" 5 br.

AF

fGJ mfy 2" 5 br.

AG

njh mfy ghf

GH

nkif Rws ghf

HD

I rkkhf J I Fl.

IT

= ,

DK=1"

269

SG

neiH ir

A1, E,FGHJKB, B1

K JL

tiuKiw (ghf)
ABCD

cau + koF

CE

njh mfy ghf

EF

Mtis

FB

I rkkhf J G Fl ntL

GH

FHB

gfghf

SG

neiH ir

CEFGBD

ghf gF

F
KJF gF nah izfgLtjh Kghf cauij l, 1 cau
FiwJ ghf btlgl ntL.
tiuKiw (nah gF)
ABCD

nah cau 3"

AC, BD

nah mfy

AC

njh mfy ghf

CE

fGJ MH 1"

CF

fGJ mfy 2"

FC

njh gF

tiuKiw (ifgF)
AB

if s

AC

nkif Rws ghf

CE

3"

AE

if tis

AE

ilbt nfhL ifF

DF

2"

EF

if gf ghf
270

BB1, FF1

go cau uL ko

B1, F1

Kdif Rws

tiuKiw (be ng fhy)

ABCD

fhy cau

AE

ECFB

fhy gF

BG, DH

be ng cau

BD, GH

fGJ Rws gh

DI

DF = 1"

njitahd kh JLf
Kghf JL

ghf gF

nah gF

if gF

fhy, beng

2+2

ghbf

271

TPm 1

u
i

Ul

\l Ul

u
i

2
iLs

TPm 6

2
iLs

1 i
TPm 2

2 iLs

TPm 3

ThP
2 iLs

2 iLs
TPm 5

TPm 4

272

ijF Kiw
1.

kh msF Vg K ghf JLf, nah if gF fhy, ghbf

gFfis bto vLJ bfhs.

2.

ghf KJF gF nah izf.

3.

K njh gffis izj

4.

lJ w ghbf bghUJj

5.

gf ghffis nrJ izj

6.

if Xu (gf ghf) ikl w myJ bjhlahd w

mikj, bghUjkhd f uil Jdh ijJ Koj

7.

Kofgl if gFia gho M nAh gFl bghU izj

8.

Xu koJ ijj

9.

fGJ gF be ng fhy (NECK BAND COLLAR) f go Kiw

izJ ijf.

10. Xg ko bghjh Jthu kW bghjh mikJ ijf.

11.

cilia maL koJ itf.

273

Nn\ I
]dLs
1.

3 YV dLt\ UVo1 Lu (Magyar Frock) Juu A[L[ Li Rp

LRjm u]o m YWk Yhj Rj dLm.
A. Lu r KWm, Lj KWeLp ame NnVm.
B. u\ \l Tp Te Tie \l Rj TU] Ldm Lm
AUj RdLm.

2.

CWi YV dLt\ Vd lWd (yoke frock) Juu A[L[ Rp LRjm

u]o m YWk Yhj Rj dLm.
A. _YWjp Tlvq (dLs[ L) AUj RdLm.
B. u Ljp Te Tie \lm Ldm AUdLm.
C. Sg Tp TjRU] YX NnVm.

3.

3 YV dLt\ Wih Vd lWd Ju] A[LPu Um u]o

m YWk Yhj Rj dLm.
A. L _ YWjp Ll vq AUdLm.
B. YhP TYP (umbrella skirt) Cl TPu CQdLm.
C. u\ \l Tp Te Tie \l ApX l KlTu AUdLUm

4.

5 YV dLt\ AW TYP Ju] NV] A[LPu Yhj RdLm.

A. Cl Tp 1 A[s[ Th AUj TjRU] LdLs (Hooks)
AUdLm.
B. vLoh Tp NRWQ Ul ApX Th Ul AUdLXm.

5.

3 YV dLt\ l[u NhP (Plain blouse) Ju] Rp LRjm u]o

m YWk Yhj Rj dLm.
A. L KWm, Lj KWeLp ame NnVm.
B. u\ Lj Tp \l Yh Te Tie Nn Ad TjRu
ApX Ldm, Lm AUj RdLm.

6.

50 YV TiUdLt\ (Choli) N Ju] Rp LRjRm u]o m

YWk Yhj Rj dLm.
A. L KWm Lj KWeLp ame NnVm.
B. uu TdLeLp TU] Pohv RdLm.
C. u \ \l Tp Ldm Lm AUdLm.

7.

20 YV TiUdLt\ LhN (cut choli) Ju] Rp LRjm u]o

m YWk Yhj Rj dLm.
A. uTp Wv Tph Utm Pohv RdLm.
B. L KWm, Lj KWeLp ame NnVm.

274

Nn\ II
]dLs
1.

10 YV YdLt\ AWdLp NhP (shorts) Ju] Rp LRjm u]o

m YWk Yhj Rj dLm.
A. YX, CP \m TdLh AUdLm.
B. u\ KlTu Tp Fly open YdLm.
C. Cl Thp Tph SP Yj RdLm.

2.

3 YV Yu T Noh Ju] Rp LRjm u]o am YWk

Yhj Rj dLm.
A. NhPu r KWm Utm L KWeLp ame NnVm.
B. CP\m pocket AUj RdLm.
C. \ll Tp TjRm, TjRu YWm AUdLm.

3.

4 YV YdLt\ T_U (pyjama) Ju] Rp LRjm u]o m

YWk Yhj Rj dLm.
A. Cl Tp SP LodLm.
B. r KWm Uj RdmT Es Lj RdLm.

4.

5 YV YdLt\ LRo lT (Kalidar kurta) Rp LRjm u]o m

YWk Yhj Rj dLm.
A. L KWm Utm Lj KWm Uj am NnVm.
B. YX\m pocket AUj RdLm.
C. u Ljp UhPo \l RdLm.

5.

5 YV dLt\ Ro ThPm (Salwar) Ju] Rp LRjm u]o

m YWk Yhj RdLm.
1. rKWm Es Lj UdLm.
2. Cl Thp SP LodLm.

6.

5 YV dLt\ Ro Pl (Kameez) Rp LRjm u]o m

YWk Yh Rj dLm.
A. L KWm, r KWm, Ljl Tp ame RdLm.
B. u Ljp Te \l RdLm.

7.

5 YV YdLt\ vXd Noh (Slack shirt) Rp LRjm u]o m

YWk Yhj Rj dLm.
A. u\ Tp Vd Utm [Lm CQj RdLm.
B. Lj Tp SdTih LXo CQdLm.
C. CP\m Patch pocket AUdLm.
D. u\ \lp TjRm, TjRu YWm RdLm.

275

REFERENCES FOR TEXTILE FINISHES

1.

Corbman B.P. Fibre to Fabric, International Students Edition Mc Graw Hill Book Co-Singapore,
2000.

2.

J.L. Smith, Textile Processing, Abhishek Publications, Chandigarh, 2003.

3.

Gokarneshan N, Fabric Structure and Design, New age International Publishers 2004.

REFERENCES FOR DYEING AND PRINTING

1.

Kate Wells, Fabric Dyeing and Printing, Conran Octopus 2000.

2.

C.W. Pellow, Dyes and Dyeing, Abhishek Publications, 2000.

3.

Z.J. Grosicki, Watsons design and Colour-Elementary Weaves and Figured fabrics. Wood health
publishing limited, 2004.

REFERENCES FOR PATTERN MAKING AND DRESS DESIGNING

1.

Betsy Hosegood, The Complete Book of Sewing, Dorling Kindersley Ltd., London, 2006.

2.

Chris Jefferys, 101 Essential Tips-Basic Sewing D.K. Publishing, 2004.

3.

Premalatha Mullick, Garment Construction Skills, Kalyani Publisher, Ludhiana, 2002.

REFERENCE FOR COMPUTER

1.

Manuals of CAD/CAM software - Tukatech, Lectra, Gerber, 2000.

2.

Kathleen Colussey M., Fashion design on computers, N.J. Prentice Hall upper Saddle River,
New Jersey, 2000.

3.

Alison Beazley Terry bond, Computer aided pattern design and product development, Black
Wele, Amazon, 2003.

REFERENCES FOR FASHION MARKETING

1.

Sumathi, G..J. Elements of Fashion and Apparel Design, Oscar Publications, New Delhi. 2007.

2.

V.D. Dudeja, Professional Management of Fashion Industry, Gangandeep Publications, New Delhi,
2005.

3.

Kitty G. Dickerson, Inside the Fashion Business, Pearson Education, Singapore, 2003.

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