Word Vietnam Jan 2014

Chuyn du lch, m thc
Vietnam Edition
january 2014
The Islands
Nh Xut Bn Lao ng
contents
wordvietnam.com
january 2014
052
080
088
THE TALK
INSIDER
010 / Walk n Ride
EAT & DRINK
042 / The Province
088 / The Caffeine Contests
Pedestrianising Hanois Old In-Between

We tasted our way through
Quarter
We cover the resorts, fishing 11 of the best coffee blends
Vietnam has on offer
rods and ruins of Ninh
Thuan in our special feature
011 / The Big Five
Events to look out for this
096 / Vegetarian Hanoi
month
052 / The Islands
Finding a route past the
For this months cover story, capitals obsession with meat
we cast ourselves away
BRIEFINGS
014 / Burger Games
McDonalds takes no
prisoners
018 / Only in Asia
A roundup of the latest

weirdness
020 / The Buffalo is Back
A local treasure gets restored
100 / Beer Club Evolution
ARTS
080 / Art & The City
Vietnamese nightlife has a

new diversion
Artists who think globally,

and locally, too
084 / The Future of

Vietnamese Dance
104 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
The KAfe: hot or not?
105 / Street Snacker Hanoi
On the menu: barbecued

Arabesque is tiptoeing on the Muscovy duck
frontier
106 / Street Snacker HCMC
The many faces of com tam
2 | Word January 2014
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contents
114
174
108 / Tusks & Dust
Aligned with a rough beauty
125 / Hanoi City Guide
126 / Overscene
TRAVEL
114 / Beautiful Bays and
Haunted Hotels
The many fine qualities of

southern Cambodia
118 / The Stopover
Three hours and

VND800,000 in Japans
Narita Airport
124 / Travel Listings
131 / Hanoi Promos

HCMC
030 / Calendar
143 / HCMC City Guide
144 / Overscene
150 / Coffee Cup

156 / In the Frame
COLUMNS
134 / Business Buff
148 / Book Buff
118
136 / The Alchemist
HANOI
036 / Calendar
FASHION
138 / The Therapist

140 / A World of Good
142 / Student Eye
160 / Body and Temple
162 / Medical Buff
170 / Tieng Viet
FINAL SAY
174 / Opportunity Knocks
What the countrys most

famous footballer was doing
out of country
176 / The Last Call
In a moment of melancholy,
Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc
laments on life
Contributors
This month we asked Word staff: What five
albums would you bring with you to a desert
island, to listen to foreva eva?
Karen Hewell
Online Editor
Sia, We Are Born
Agnes Obel, Aventine
Phantogram, Eyelid Movies
Matt and Kim, Grand
Tegan and Sara, The Con
Mads Monsen
Creative Director
Ryksopp, Running to the Sea
Ludovico Einaudi, In a Time Lapse
Mahakala Prayer
Om Tare Tuttare Ture Soha, Tara Mantra
Ani Choying Drolma, Namo Ratna Traya
Francis Xavier
Staff Reporter
My Bloody Valentine, Loveless
Darkside, Psychic
Radiohead, The Bends
Soft Powers, Bad Pop
The Cure, Disintegration
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
EDITORIAL
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Features Editor
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ADMINISTRATION
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Deputy Editor
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Sam Cooke, Live at the Harlem
Square Club, 1963
WU LYF, Go Tell Fire to the Mountain
Eleanor Friedberger, Last Summer
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Staff Editor
I'd just bring my entire iPhone
#21stcentury
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Chief Editor
(desert island themed songs)
Pink Floyd, Wish You Were Here
U2, Running to Stand Still
Roy Ayers, Everybody Loves the Sunshine
De La Soul, Me, Myself and I
Massive Attack, Hymn of the Big Wheel
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In xong v np lu chiu Qy 1 nm 2014.
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The prelude
hen Desert
Island Discs
first hit
the British
airwaves in 1942, it
created a timeless format
that tapped into the
fantasies and exoticism
many in the west
associate with tropical,
blue sky, blue sea, white
sand beach islands. In
a country where the
weather is, well, pretty
atrocious, castaways
were asked to choose
eight pieces of music, a
book and a luxury item
to take to an imaginary
desert island where they
would be marooned
indefinitely.
That the radio
programme has been

aired continuously
for over 70 years says
much for our Robinson
Crusoe-like fascination
with islands. Not only
has the BBC show
managed to attract some
well-known celebrities
to its recording studios,
but the programme has
become an institution, a
well-loved eternal radio
show that continues to
woo listeners.
It is this same
fascination with islands
that we have tried to tap
into with our cover story
this month. Although
the exotic desert island
is a rarity these days,
the concept of a piece of
land surrounded by a
body of water, whether
mountainous or flat,
desert or jungle, built
up with concrete or
sparsely covered in huts
continues to excite the
human mind. However,
weve focused on rocky
reality rather than the
concept of paradise
after all, few islands out
there remain untouched
by the hand of man.
From Phu Quoc and
its partner, undeveloped
archipelago Nam Du,
to the other side of
Halong Bay, the islands
around the island of
Singapore, the islands
in the swamps, urban
island living and even
rebuilding an island,
weve tried to cover
every type of island out
there, at least in this
part of the world. But
the centrepiece has to
be our story of games
programmer Curtis
Norris, who went in
search of his very own
desert island. It was a
journey that led him to
an uninhabited tract of
land in Halong Bay and
six months isolated from
the outside world.
Not everyone can find
their own desert island
at least not physically
but they can certainly
create an image of it
within their mind.
Nick Ross
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC
VIETNAM EDITION
JANUARY 2014
The Islands
NH XUT BN LAO NG
THIS MONTH'S COVER

Cover by DH Advertising
Photo by Ed Weinberg
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AT EDITOR@wordvietnam.com were at your fingertips.
Dalat to Thap Cham Railway

I missed the original article on the
Dalat Railway (September 2013, p. 176)
but caught up through the comments
section in December.
The answer to CEs question about
whether you can cycle the former
railway line is yes and no. Some
sections are used by farmers for
motorbike access to their land, others
are completely overgrown. I wouldnt
recommend trying any of the route in
the wet season. The road that goes from
Dalat to Trai Mat Station (QL20) runs
close to the route for long sections so
there is always an alternative. The long
tunnel (#3) is said to be blocked by a
roof collapse, but the last time I tried
to get into it from the Dalat end it was
flooded and said to be full of snakes.
Anyone who would like to share
knowledge of the route should get in
touch with me at alanmurrayvn@gmail.
com Alan Murray
54 Colours
What a lovely article you wrote about
Sebastien Lavals show at the museum
(December 2013, p. 94). He was so happy
about that and me, too. I want to thank
you for all the great work you are doing
with your magazine. SL
Nightlife
Phuc Tan and New Century
I like your story on nightlife (December 2013, The
Nightlife Issue), but your Hanoi timeline missed out
two important places. The first is Phuc Tan. It may
be a dive, but for years it has often been the only
place open late. Its also perhaps the only bar to
change names Phuc Tan, Barracuda, Lighthouse
and then go back to its original name. You also
missed New Century, that huge nightclub which
was shut down in 2007. It had a huge impact in the
development of nightclubs in Hanoi. JC
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC
VIETNAM EDITION
DECEMBER 2013
night
life
Lindas
You missed out two places that without them,
wouldnt have made nightlife into what it is today.
Pacharan on Hai Ba Trung is on the spot
formerly occupied by Monkey bar and prior to that
Lindas Bar, which opened in 1992 with Rod from
England and his Vietnamese wife Linda. The bar
was one small ground floor room on the corner with a behind-the-curtain, hole-in-the-floor
toilet with a wall tap where the glasses were washed. Lindas 2 opened in Vung Tau in 1993
in the alleyway at the side of the Palace Hotel.
Lindas 2 in Vung Tau was managed by a Kiwi guy called Andy and his room
(accommodation) was between the bar and toilet. Painted on the wall of his room was
something on the lines of Andys place, keep out. It was an all day bar. They were strange
times. CE
NH XUT BN LAO NG
Design
Your magazine is both vital and enjoyable, but from the perspective of a design teacher, the
design is all over the place. The photographys excellent, but you really dont do it justice. Who is
doing your layout? I think you need to have a chat with them. DG
January 2014 Word | 9
The talk
Photo by Thiep Nguyen
Walk n Ride
our years ago a new

transport scheme was
introduced to help
relieve congestion
pressure on Hanois Old
Quarter the electric car.
Designed to shuttle tourists
around the labyrinthine
streets of Hanois historical heart, it was
believed that this new mode of transport
would reduce bottlenecks and pollution. While
it provided a welcome new sightseeing service
for tourists, the traffic jams and motorbike
fumes remained.
At the time a case was also made for
pedestrianising parts of this area. The night
market on Hang Dao was already successfully
closing down a slither of streets on Friday,
Saturday and Sunday nights. Yet the logistics
of such a move seemed insurmountable. While
long-term this would be good for business
the area would effectively become a cross
between an on-foot shopping precinct and a
cultural tourist attraction in the short term,
the nature of street life, business and a lack of
parking space and public transport facilities
in downtown Hanoi would make this difficult
to implement. And one simple issue the
constant need for motorbike deliveries and
pick-ups would make it impossible to keep
such a zone vehicle-free.
Fast forward to the beginning of 2014
and on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights,
Ma May, Luong Ngoc Quyen, Ta Hien and
Hang Buom have been cleared of all vehicles.
Its not the 24-hour, congestion-easing
pedestrianisation that was hoped for, but its a
Pedestrianising the Old Quarter

great start. For business owners there is better
news. No longer do licensing rules require
them to close before midnight they can now
stay open to 2am.
Uncapping the Bottleneck

That such a move has been tried says much for
the issues faced by the capital. While in Ho Chi
Minh City, the Pham Ngu Lao area known
affectionately as The Pham buses in tourists
in their beer-drinking droves, Hanoi has
struggled to have the same impact on visitors
from overseas. As one bar owner explains, In
France, people save up for two years to come
to Vietnam. But when they arrive and discover
that everything closes at midnight, they leave
disappointed. This is a capital city.
The opposite happens down south. In The
Pham, bars and clubs stay open into the early
hours, providing a Bangkok-like fiesta for
tourists and locals of all ilks. Yet in Hanoi, its
only in the now defunct Zone 9, Phuc Tan and
occasionally in the Xuan Dieu area that the
citys watering holes are allowed to take such
liberties. The days of Ta Hien bars staging allnight lock-ins are a thing of the past.
Yet implementing a pedestrian-only
area is not without its difficulties. For one,
how will residents get in and out of their
homes, especially if, as predicted, bars and
restaurants will spread tables

and chairs out onto the street?
Also, where will people park?
A space has been reserved
for motorbikes just by the
dyke road under Chuong
Duong Bridge. But will this be
enough?
Spreading the Love

Should the initiative work, then it is something
that should be tried down south. Despite the
areas success, a lack of sidewalk space and
narrow roads mean streets in The Pham such
as Bui Vien and Do Quang Dao are often
difficult to navigate, whether you are on foot
or on a vehicle. A recent move to prevent
chairs and tables from blocking the sidewalk
has eased the congestion. But night-time
pedestrianisation would be a welcome move
weaving through the mass of people forced
to walk on the road can be dangerous.
Businesses would also benefit. A
pedestrianised area would make The Pham
into a much more pleasant and safer
space for night-time shopping, eating and
drinking. Like Ben Thanh Market at night, it
would attract more people.
Despite the logistical issues surrounding
the night-time pedestrianisation of parts
of the Old Quarter, it is a welcome move.
Its good for business and it provides a
hassle-free night-time eating and drinking
environment for customers.
Lets hope local residents dont kick up a
fuss. If they do, then all could be rolled back
again. Nick Ross
1.
the big five

The Year of The Horse
Kicking off with New Years Eve

festivities on Thursday Jan. 30, the
Year of The Horse will descend on Vietnam
the following day. So, time to hold onto
your saddle, stirrups and mane for a year
of leaders 2014 is set for those who want
to make a difference and know how to
make it happen.
According to astrologists, people
born under the signs of Cancer, Pisces
and Scorpio are set to have a great year,
enjoying things that are close to them
3.
2.
Detroit House
Relocates to Saigon
Detroit house music legend Alton

Miller is coming to town. The mans
been active since 1988, when he helped
make Detroit one of the epicentres of the
underground house movement. Inspired
by Stevie Wonder, Santana, Parliament,
Funkadelic, the Philadelphia sound and
DJs hes play alongside of like Ron Hardy,
Frankie Knuckles, Larry Levan and Timmy
Regisford, Miller will be mixing the old
with the new, and showing us what house
music and hi-tech soul is all about.
The Observatory is on the corner of Le Lai
and Ton That Tung, Q1. The party is on Jan. 11
at 10pm, VND150,000 entry
such as friends, travelling, romance and

even learning a new language. For the
Leos, Aries and Sagittarians out there, life
will also be good, although the focus will
be on their careers and responsibilities
the moneymaking potential for this year
is huge.
So prepare yourself, the Year of the
Horse is set to be a fiery one. And if youre
not one of the lucky star signs mentioned
above, grab destiny with both hands.
Unless you believe in fate, that is.
Saigon Comedy
Nights Returns
Remember Glenn Wool,

the Canadian comic who wooed
Hard Rock a year ago with his
jokes about swans? Well the
maestro of on-stage laughter
and proverbial cool is back on
Tuesday Jan. 14 at Cargo Bar, as
part of a Southeast Asian tour.
As ever, he wont be alone.
Celebrated comedienne Mandy
Knight will also be shaking up
some tale feathers she was the
first woman to ever MC at The
Comedy Store in London. And
while its yet to be confirmed,
its hoped that some of the local
comics will also be there to add
some spice and all things nice.
Doors open 8pm on Jan. 14,
and admission surcharge is
VND250,000 includes a free
beer. For more information email
saigoncomedynights@gmail.com.
Cargo Bar is at 7 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4
4.
5.
The Me Linh Drums
Based on the lives of the legendary first queens
of Vietnam, the Trung sisters, whose inspiring
bravery has so affected the history of this
country 2,000 years ago, The Me Linh Drums
is a classic of cai luong Vietnamese opera
coming to Idecaf Theatre on Jan. 7. Performing
the piece alongside others is Thanh Sang, the
most famous cai luong singer living today, a
legend since the 1960s. He hasnt appeared on
stage in nearly a decade, and hasnt performed

the classics on this list since he sang them with
Thanh Nga, the great diva of cai luong.
This may well turn out to be Thanh Sangs
last concert, as well as the kind of event that
people will look back on and say, I was there.
The Me Linh Drums will be performed Jan. 7
at 8pm at Idecaf Theatre, 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1.
For more info, call (08) 2229 9414
South Rakkas to Play

Hanoi
Jamaican-born and Florida resident

South Rakkas, with his filthy sound system
beats and killer rhythms, will be playing
CAMA ATK on Thursday Jan. 23.
Garnering a reputation as one of the
best in dancehall electro riddims, Rakkas
has taken on remix-duty for artists such as
M.I.A and Tricky, and is signed with Diplos
notorious Mad Decent label.
For more information what promises to be
a huge gig in an intimate atmosphere, head to
page 35
brief ings
Conquering
the Bridge
Photos provided by HCMC RUN
treams of sunlight crawled across the early

morning sky as the sea of blue-clad participants
stretched and jogged in place. Close to 5,500
people were about to flood Phu My Hung over
the next couple of hours a tidal wave of runners
would stretch from Crescent Mall to the Phu My
Bridge, and back again.
There were children and the elderly, students and
expats amongst the crowd at the Dec. 8 HCMC RUN
2013, the first edition of an annual concept. Even a
few hardcore runners turned up barefoot. Some were
there to have a good time and test the benefits of their
healthy lifestyle, while others were there for the battle,
warriors in running shoes. Many were embarking on
their first-ever competitive race, and I was one of them.
I came across the HCMC RUN when I was looking
for a safe place to do road running in the city. In the
weeks leading up to the event, free training sessions
were organised to help drum up interest in the
forthcoming race, and to promote a healthy and active
way of life. After I ran their 7.6km route one Saturday
afternoon, I signed up for the excruciating 4am start.
Thats what endorphins will do to you.
Three weeks later, I stood, one of thousands,
wearing the obligatory blue T-shirt covered in
sponsors logos and a bib that wasnt going to be
splattered with gravy instead it declared my
temporary identity, 6145, and the beast I was to
combat, the 5km route.
Three groups awaited their respective gunfire. The
10k racers who would be expected to conquer
the outrageous incline of Phu My Bridge, the runs
marquee challenge were up front and the first to
burst the banks. At the rear was a massive pool of 3k
runners and, sandwiched in between both groups, a

deluge of 5k-ers.
The Floodgates Open

Five minutes after the 10k group had departed it was
our time to shine. The cascade of runners was soon
flowing around The Crescent and pounding across
Starlight Bridge (Cau Anh Sao).
The route followed some of the main roads, none
of which appeared to be officially closed for the race.
Traffic was effectively managed, to an extent, by the
local police who stood at certain points with warm
smiles, occasionally helping the stewards to direct
runners around corners. However, having to stop and
wait for an impatient lorry driver to cross the junction
of Tran Van Tra and Nguyen Luong Bang where
traffic was surging in both directions wasnt ideal.
This is how a race like this ends: you feel the roar
of the finish line in your belly, then you hear it and,
no matter how painful that stitch is, or how tight
your calves are, you are sprinting until you cant
feel your legs anymore. And the awareness of your
accomplishment overflows as you make that final push
across the finish line, proving that you can do anything.
Apart from the traffic management issues, the first HCMC
RUN was a success, raising VND950 million for the Ho Chi
Minh City chapter of Vietnam Red Cross and other charities.
Event organisers promise that the challenges faced by
runners will be addressed for next years event and with
full and half-marathons being scheduled, and a predicted
10,000 runners HCMC RUN 2014 should be epic.
And, for those of you who are interested, my official
time was 32:19, coming in a very respectable 24th place
among the female 5k runners. Jennifer Graham
brief ings
Photo by Yves Schiepek
Burger Games
McDonalds is coming. Time to shake up the burger market
ll the burger talk this past month

has centred on McDonalds longawaited entre into the chainhungry Vietnamese market, with a
three-property location and 24-hour drivethru service in downtown Ho Chi Minh City
set to debut after Tet. Its a move thats been
years in the making.
But lost in all the excitement is the fact
that Vietnam already has its own American
hamburger mega-chain in Burger King
two if you want to include Carls Jr. and
the reigning American rulers of the local
burger scene have been squaring up to
guard their 143,000 Vietnamese Facebook
likes. Theres also the not-so-small matter
of Korean burger chain, Lotteria, and the
Filipino equivalent, Jolibee.
Over the last couple of years, Lotteria has
been doing refurbs and refits, and setting
up its stall in as many corner locations as
possible. Saigon Burger King has also been
in on the act. In the past month or so theyve
added two westerner-friendly locations to
the 11 that were already in Ho Chi Minh City
one in the expat enclave of Thao Dien and
one in the tourist hub of Pham Ngu Lao.
Careful watchers are thinking this
constitutes a strategy. Says one expat, a
50-year-old Australian named Paul, Burger
King will still find the market. But the locals
will love McDonalds. How many locals

do you see here tonight? Most of them are
gonna be expats.
The Facts on the Ground

True to form, five out of seven of the patrons
interviewed at these new Burger King
branches say theyll stick with Burger King
when they have the choice (the only bornand-bred Saigonese interviewed, 20-year-old
Loan, remains undecided).
McDonalds is boring, says 17-year-old
Giuliano, a three-year resident of Saigon.
Its like the same kind of burger done all
over. Here they mix it up with the burgers
and, you know, its better.
Burger King for me, says Paul. Dearer
but its much better.
The first stop 62-year-old Ruth from Israel
came to in Ho Chi Minh City was Burger
King on Pham Ngu Lao. She found the
Whopper quite tasty. But if she had a choice?
McDonalds. Because its more familiar to
me.
Loan ate burgers and fries with her friends
at the Pham Ngu Lao location. For now,
shes picking Burger King over Lotteria and
Jollibee: I like it very much.
Squaring Up
From the rumours, it looks like McDonalds
has their strategy set too.

They will have an impact, says Paul.
They will blast the airwaves. The media
spin next year will be incredible.
Leading up to the McDonalds
announcement, the press was filled with
speculation as to where theyd land. Sites
in out-of-downtown districts like Go Vap
and District 10 were mentioned, as well as
the triangle corner where Pham Ngu Lao
splits off of Tran Hung Dao. Burger King
never generated this kind of buzz.
It wasnt too packed when they first
opened, Giuliano says about Burger
Kings two-years-ago debut. And now, its
just consistent customers.
23-year-old South African Cameron,
with 16 years in Saigon to his credit, says,
I think when it opens its going to be
quite busy, because the Vietnamese are
gonna be like, Oh McDonalds, weve seen
it in the movies and TV, but weve never
been to a real one. So I think in terms of
Vietnamese people, theyre gonna stop
there to try it.
Paul sees it in more clear-cut terms. Not
a chance, he says about Burger Kings
chances. Maccasll kill em. Maccas are
coming in for the price of a bowl of pho.
[Theyll have] 200 restaurants next year.
Ed Weinberg
Photo provided by Tiffany Chung
brief ings
Sustainable urbanism and

the future of architecture.
Photos by Cristina Nualart
n Vietnam, it is rare to see exhibitions of

the most prominent Vietnamese artists.
The stars of the countrys art world are
in high demand in art fairs, biennials and
museums in other parts of the globe.
In a career spanning little over a decade,
Tiffany Chung has, on average, exhibited
one solo show and two groups shows per
year, and participated in an international
biennial or triennial every two years. Her
art has travelled from cities across the US, to
Asia, Australia, Europe and the Middle East.
The last time Tiffanys paintings and
sculptures were shown in Vietnam was five
years ago, at Galerie Quynh in Ho Chi Minh
City, where her new show An Archeology
Project for Future Remembrance can be seen
this month, across the gallerys two spaces.
A Landmark Exhibition
This exhibition is possibly the first
in Vietnam that shows the type of
interdisciplinary research that is making
waves in intellectual circles. At some point
in the second half of the 20th century, the
modernist admiration for the instinctual
genius of the artist gave way to a trend for
intelligent artworks that demonstrated the
artists ability to articulate theories and
illustrate concepts.
Saigon resident Tiffany Chungs
brainpower seems to be switched onto
hyperactive all the time. Tiffany speaks with
energy and sharp insight. Her research is a
solid backup for her unapologetic opinions.
For a long time, she has been a good
Tiffany Chung
friend of Erik Harms, assistant professor
of anthropology at Yale. In the Dong Khoi
space, the collaboration between the artist
and the anthropologist is presented linearly.
Excerpts from Erik Harms next book
are glossy art objects. Selected passages
of colonialist propaganda and historical
descriptions of Saigon are also readable
art. But the research is not just text, it is
drawn into the maps and crafted into the
sculptures.
The drawings on vellum paper, velvety
and translucent, are based on historical maps
or futuristic maps projecting urban plans
of areas yet to be built. The gleeful layers
of the drawing, minute doodley patterns in
pretty colours, deceive us into thinking they
are imaginative fabrications. Their hidden
research tells other stories.
The maps a trademark of her art
practice critique the political decisions
that shape borders, lead to wars, construct
artificial communities or displace people.
The six map drawings in this show are
specifically about areas in southern Vietnam,
mostly referencing the forced evictions of
people who lived on land slated to be turned
into a fancy financial district. The threechannel video art also comments on that
issue.
Art as Prophecy
The gem of the exhibition is the hanging
installation, Stored in a jar: monsoon, drowning
fish, color of water, and the floating world. The
piece was commissioned by the Singapore
Biennale in 2011. On glass puddles, dozens

of miniature houses, houseboats and boats
are aligned with neat gardens reminiscent of
a middle-class American suburb.
The detailed architectural models are
inspired by traditional Asian design and
materials. Rather than glorifying colonial
architecture, Tiffanys art admires older
vernacular architecture. Not for sentimental
reasons, however. The design of her minihousing project is informed by in-depth
research, adapting ideas from all over the
region, from Japan to Thailand as well as
Vietnam, and crafting the models with
cutting-edge technology. The modern and
the traditional coexist.
The overall magical appearance of this
calming and poised artwork is a plan for
a portable model of sustainable urbanism.
Wooden houses, some on stilts, have solar
panels and rainwater collectors.
The evidence she builds from here is a
projection of how climate change will affect
the Mekong region in the coming decades.
Floods will increase their devastating
capacity, so we should prepare for them,
she suggests. In this, perhaps her floating
communities are less artifice and more
science than her choice of mediums suggests.
Cristina Nualart
See the art exhibition of the year before the
exhibition closes on Jan. 10, 2014. Its spread
across Galerie Quynhs two venues: 65 De Tham,
Q1, and 2nd floor, 151/3 Dong Khoi, Q1, both
in Ho Chi Minh City. For more info, head to
galeriequynh.com
brief ings
Speed Texting
A man believed to be a Saudi local was
recently caught on video sitting on the hood
of a speeding car along a Saudi Arabian
freeway.
The video shows him wearing Saudis
national costume the thawb and the
keffiyeh taking out his phone and sending

an SMS as the car travels at 100 km/h.
Its unsure whether the video was a
deliberate stunt or a short movie made by
some reckless Saudis. But one things for
sure kids, dont try it at home.
Only in Asia
Stories from around the region
Tower Infinity
The Perfect Spread
Incheon in South Korea has decided

to go against the phallic symbol, ultrahigh skyscraper grain by constructing a
450m-high building in stealth mode.
Yes, you guessed it. Tower Infinity, as the
structure will be called, will be invisible to
the naked eye.
A feat of modern human ingenuity,
according to California-based GDS
Architects, the skyscraper will use LEDs to
project the image of the sky from behind it,
as captured by cameras on the other side. In
the process, Tower Infinity will disappear
from Incheons skyline.
Located just a few miles east of Koreas
busiest airport, anyone with 9/11 intentions
can think again you cannot plough into
what you cannot see. Lets just hope that
normal flight paths are diverted, otherwise
flying into Seoul Airport could give
turbulence a new meaning.
How do you evenly spread butter on bread

or toast without creating the requisite rip or
tear? Well, one option, of course, is to make
sure the butter is softened or slightly melted.
But for those who prefer to have their butter
come cold, directly out of the fridge, Japans
Metex Corporation have the answer Easy
Butter.
A simple contraption that allows you to
grate your butter into strings, the resulting
substance is easier to spread. Its fun, too,
as you watch the butter come out in little
stringy tendrils from a plastic tube.
So when life bugs you and all those
insignificant but vitally important things just
get you down, now you have the answer.
Easy Butter. What more could a man or
woman ask for?
Hello Kitty Beer

At the end of last year, Hello Kitty maker
Sanrio introduced their latest marketing
stunt Hello Kitty Beer. Available in China
and Taiwan in a number of fruity flavours
including banana, lemon-lime, passion fruit
and peach, the tipple is colourfully packaged
with emblems of the popular cartoon
character.
But worry not. For anyone concerned
that this brew will be alcohol-free, think
again Hello Kitty has it covered. At
between 2.3 and 2.8 percent alcohol, this is
perfect for that young kid or experimental
teenager looking to get into the adult
world of boozing. Even better, according
to one blogger in China, the brew is so
ridiculously smooth and tasty, that no one
would easily know its beer.
As another reviewer was quick to remark,
the passion fruit-flavoured beer has the tinge
of Fanta, but with a beer aftertaste. Time to
get those mot-hai-ba-yos going
Facebook Street
Vietnam has officially become the first
country to have a street named after
Facebook.
Called Duong Facebook, the road in the
north-central region of Ha Tinh has been
named after the Social Media website thanks
to the charitable work of the Facebook group
Khan quang do TP Ho Chi Minh the Ho
Chi Minh City Red Scarf.
In response to the flooding in Ha Tinh in
October earlier this year, the group visited
three of the most affected areas the rural
districts of Huong Khe, Huong Son and
Vu Quang. However, so touched were the
group by the poverty they encountered in
the village of Yen Hoi in Vu Quang, that they
ran an additional campaign to raise VND30
million to build a road for the people of
Hamlet 7, who were otherwise cut off from
civilisation.
The road will create easier transport access
for the villagers, who live a life of extreme
rural poverty.
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Managed by Norfolk Group
brief ings
In mid-December, to celebrate 40 years of diplomatic ties between France

and Vietnam, the Reunification Palace was lit up in a spectacular 3D light
show created by Les Allumeurs d'Images.
Running for 15 minutes, with a number of performances over each night,
tens of thousands filled both the palace grounds and the streets outside to
watch the spectacle. Accompanied by live music and the voice of singer
Le Cat Trong Ly, and organised by Mr. Festival himself, Philippe Bouler, it
was a show that will live long in memory.
Photo by Yves Schiepek
Photos by Nick Ross
Lighting Up the Skies
The Buffalo
is Back
After an electrical fire knocked out
its lights a few months ago, one
of the most photographed and
iconic symbols of modern Saigon
has returned to light up the streets
of The Pham. Yes, you got it
in one. That enormous Crazy
Buffalo sign is back, and with a
vengeance, too.
Overlooking the intersection
of Bui Vien and De Tham, it will
make you forget all the talk about
McDonald's. The buffalo sign is
the real deal.
brief ings
Engaging With Vietnam

A
Five years in the life of a conference
Photos by Cristina Nualart
ll over the
world, academic
conferences
are held yearly
on topics ranging from
nanotechnology to supply chain finance
and the oral literatures of Africa. Hordes
of lecturers and a handful of industry
professionals flock to them to discuss their
investigations on some minute detail of
their speciality.
Some years ago, Dr. Phan Le Ha, a
Vietnamese lecturer based at Australias
Monash University, wanted a platform for
a broadminded discussion on her home
country. As people who follow a dream
sometimes do, she set about making it
happen organising a conference on
all things Vietnam thats now five years
running. From Melbourne, to Hanoi, to
Hawaii, Engaging With Vietnam has brought
together scholars from all sorts of fields
together to discuss the future, past and
endlessly-curious present of the country.
This past month, the 5th Engaging With
Vietnam conference addressed the theme
The Multiple Ways of Knowing Vietnam.
The event was held in Thai Nguyen
University, two hours north of Hanoi.
A Grab Bag of Ideas

From Dec. 16 to Dec. 17, 200 researchers
shared their work. In coats, scarves and hats,
hundreds of attendants many of them

students from the hosting university
sipped hot Thai Nguyen tea in between notetaking. It was easy to forget details, over the
course of 100 presentations across the two
days, which flustered many an indecisive
person.
Would you choose to learn about
mitigating climate change or find out the
impact on Vietnam of the Trans-Pacific
Partnerships? One session on cultivating
organic rice could be continued with one on
conflict management, or one on cheating in
schools.
In one particularly interesting session,
PhD candidate Nguyen Anh Tuan explained
the difference between a psychic and a
medium. He gave examples of how an egg
and some chopsticks are used to find the
remains of lost ancestors. His discussion on
extrasensory perception and paranormal
beliefs preceded an impassioned call to
female empowerment, inspired by the works
of Vietnamese and Filipino women artists.
From Berkeley, California, history
professor Peter Zinoman came to present
his book on writer Vu Trong Phung, one
of the most influential Vietnamese authors
of the past century. Another

history professor, Liam Kelley
from the University of Hawaii,
demonstrated how digital
mapping systems and other
software can engender a global collaboration
on research in the humanities. As we know
from Wikipedia, projects like this utilise the
expertise of many individuals willing to
contribute their time and knowledge to the
greater good.
Dozens more speakers, coming from all
continents, shared their ideas including
yours truly, in connecting the work of artists
in Saigon with ethnographic research on the
region.
The conference that started off as a
personal project has proved to be an ongoing
success. Hosting it in Vietnam offers
many local educators and professionals
the possibility of participating in an
international event without the prohibitive
cost of long-distance travel.
The timing of the conference also gave
its international visitors something useful
the opportunity to plan a Christmas
holiday in Vietnam. Many of the speakers
are now engaging with Vietnams sights and
cities firsthand. Without a doubt, Vietnam
will offer plenty of material to continue the
dialogue. Cristina Nualart
To learn more about this and previous editions,
head to engagingwithvietnam.com
Ho Chi minh city

what s on
The Year of the Horse
Tet is fast coming up, and with it, all the hotel specials you can handle. You can get your banh chung and quyt everywhere, but if youre
looking for something a bit different, odds are these places will have it.
Provided by Movenpick Hotel
Caravelle
caravellehotel.com
In honour of the moon revolving around
the earth, Nineteen will make your
tongue revolve around your mouth with
its full-course Tet feast, every evening
from Jan. 30 to Feb. 5. Indulge in an
array of time-honoured Tet delicacies:
ocean-fresh fish and seafood, imported
meats grilled and barbecued to perfection
and a warm oyster pass around. The
East-meets-West spread will feature
mouthwatering local dishes such as beef
in la lot leaves and banh xeo alongside
international classics, such as red
wine-poached beef tenderloin, saffronmarinated chicken and Chinese steamed
whole fish.
InterContinental
intercontinental.com/saigon
The InterCon is covering all aspects of
the Tet experience this year, starting
with the luckiest ones. At 10am on Jan.
31, a local dance troupe will gather in
the hotels lobby, dressed as lions, and
shake their tails to bring you a prosperous
2014. And if you stick around, your luck
will only multiply with the prosperity
toss of the Yee-Sang Salad, a ritual salad
tossing that symbolises ushering in
prosperity and abundance for the coming
New Year from VND250,000 for two
people at Yu Chu. At Market 39, things
get even more bountiful, with a buffet

selection of traditional Tet dishes and
other international selections, priced at
VND498,000++ per person for lunch,
VND899,000++ for dinner.
Mvenpick
moevenpick-saigon.com
You have more loved ones than you
know what to do with, and you wont
have time to break banh with all of
them. Mvenpicks got you sorted
this Tet, with lucky cakes and Tet
hampers communicating your love and
appreciation through a variety of red
velvet, passion fruit, tiramisu, lychee
and green tea pastries, and some of
the most prized gourmet products a
hamper-opener can receive. Lucky cakes
are available now through February, Tet
hampers are available now through Feb. 7
at Cay Da Caf.
Shang Palace
shangpalace.com.vn
Shang Palace is giving into its royal whims
this Tet, with one of the most sumptuous
spreads youll find in the city with
must-have delicacy Yusheng, containing
wealthy salmon, jelly fish, eye-catching
vegetables and sauces that represent your
luck and abundance in the coming year; a
prosperous big bowl feast with premium
ingredients such as abalone, oyster, sea
cucumber, scallop, roast duck and tiger

prawn; cured meat and a special dual
fish glutinous rice cake. And if youre not
wealthy and lucky enough by the end of
all that, at noon on Jan. 31, a lion dance
will bestow all the good vibes you need for
a successful new year.
Sheraton
sheratonsaigon.com
All through January, Mojo Caf is
welcoming Tet with a special Asian
delicacy menu, featuring Chinese roasted
duck sandwiches, grilled fish with chilli
and lemongrass, prawn and mushroom
noodle soups, every day from 11am
till late. From Jan. 15 to Jan. 31, Li Bai
Chinese restaurant really anticipates Tet
with a traditional New Year Yee Sang with
salmon, wok-fried baby lobster with chilli
sauce and deep-fried cod fish with special
sauce. Not only will luck be on your side
leading up to Tet, but also a full belly.
VinSpace Garage
vin-space.com
VinSpace doesnt have food for you this
Tet, but they are hosting a special Tet
calligraphy workshop to help you wish
your eventual benefactors Phuc Good
Fortune, Loc Prosperity and Tho
Longevity. Join them on Jan. 18, 10am to
noon with your kids, or come by 2pm to
4pm that same day for the adult session.
Jasmine Goes Three

Well-known and well-loved spa and hair
salon Jasmine on Ton That Thiep has
opened its third location, this time in the
confines of the former Eden Mall, now
known as Union Square, Vincom A.
Providing a more exclusive, top-end
edge to its other locations, the spa and
salon includes a range of treatments
from pedicures, manicures and all things
nails, through to facials, foot, leg, hand
and full body massage, waxing, scrub
and hair services. Under the auspices of
three, well-travelled hair professionals
Jonny, Kevin and Ukrainian, Dimitry

the full range of hair, cut, colouring and
treatments are available here, all in the
confines of a pleasant, contemporary spa
and salon atmosphere.

The new Jasmine of Saigon is at B2-01B, Union
Square, Vincom A, 171 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3936 9195, jasminespa.vn
Vietnamese Fruit
Fruit is abundant in Vietnam, coming
in many forms and varieties. And for
Vietnamese people from the various
regions and provinces of this country,
fruit brings with it a series of sensory
emotions smells, tastes and memories
visions of childhood, reminiscences of
the countryside, feelings about home and
the past.
Such evocative images and memories
are captured in the collection of essays,
Vietnamese Fruit and Other Stories, by author
Cao Thi Lan Phuong. Costing VND286,000
and now available in bookshops around the

country in English, the 112-page work is
published by Phong Lan Printing & Media
Company in association with Thanh Nien
Publishing House.
Evocative, lyrical and nostalgic, as
the author herself writes in the books
foreword, I grew up sitting in the sweetsop
tree in my grandparents plot eating my
lunch after school, and joining the other
kids in their rowdy search for wild fruits in
the garden. Today when I see fruit, I see the
little stories around them.
Ho Chi minh city

what s on
Residents Corner
San Art started its fourth
six-month art residency last
month, while Saigon Outcast
is embarking on its second.
San Art gives its residents six
months and VND21 million
towards a session-ending
group exhibition, Outcasts is
a bit more free-form Very
similar to couchsurfing, but for
artists. They also have plans
for an end-of-residency art
exhibition.
Here we break down the
players, and what theyre
doing with their free time.
1. Nguyen Van Du / San Art

Born in Vung Tau in 1986, Du started
painting when he was three. In his
professionally active years, hes practised
in Ho Chi Minh City. He has especially
vivid ideas about history, politics, social
problems and all that informs Vietnamese
society.
2. Le Phi Long / San Art

Born in Hue in 1988, Long studied
applied arts interior design there,
then moved to Hanoi, where hes since
been active in a number of collaborative
projects. Hes very interested in nature
and environment, and feels that being
eco-friendly and staying in harmony with
nature is central to his artworks.
3. Lai Dieu Ha / San Art

A 38-year-old Hanoian artist, this session
will help her connect with a city that shes
done little in artistically, even through

a career which has seen her exhibit in
Japan, Cambodia, Myanmar, Norway
and Israel. Her art is unique, obsessive
and multi-faceted. Shes currently
interested in psychology, especially in the
experiences of people who suffer from
loneliness and mental breakdown.
4. Yanneth Albornoz / Saigon

Outcast
Yanneth was born in Panama, with an
overexposure of sun, tropicality, and
ever since her career started 20 years
ago, shes been travelling to places like
Barcelona, Costa Rica, Berlin and Brazil
and trying things out. During Janet's
residency, she will also be hosting talks
and sharing her life/travel experiences
and how they influence her perceptions
and creativity. She will also be hosting
workshops on graphic design and
creating acrylics on vinyl paintings.

Shes worked in logo design and
typography, scriptwriting for TV, art
direction, acting, fashion illustration
and painting. She doesnt yet know in
exactly which direction shell take the
residency, but it will follow these motifs:
Aspirational advertising and popular
culture. Prestige and decadence. Belief
and illusion. What doesnt match finally
looks good.
Find out more about San Arts current
residents and apply for the next residency
at san-art.org/sanartlaboratory/sanart-laboratory.html, or drop by San Art
Laboratory at 40/18 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh
Thanh, Jan. 25 at 6pm for an open studio
meet-and-greet
To see more of Yanneths stuff, head to issuu.
com/louloutoulouse/docs/yanneth_albornozcv-pf-2013, or check out her illustration of Le
Cong Vinh in this months issue
83%
Canvas & Wine

VinSpaces popular series has two editions
in January, which will teach you how to
paint like Monet and Klee or at least
feed you enough to make you think you
do. VinSpaces District 1 garage will host
the Monet and The Impressionists session on
Jan. 16, and the District 2 art studio will
host Paint like Paul Klee! on Jan. 23.
VinSpace Garage is at 95 Pasteur, Q1, and
VinSpace Art Studio is at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2.
Both sessions go from 6.30pm to 9pm. For
more info, go to vin-space.com or call 0907
729846
of our
clients
saved
Dance Parties
Electric Kicks
Everyones favourite
DIY indie electro sleazy
discopunk dance party
comes back to Broma
Jan. 17, with the O
Dau-representing indie
attack of DJ BLX ATTK
leading the pack. Indie
fun in all its forms will be
represented, with EADJ
mainstays Superkid and
Starchild filling in the
gaps.
Jan. 17 at Broma, 41
Nguyen Hue, Q1. The
sleaze kicks up at 9pm,
VND50,000 entry
Shimmy Shimmy
Coco Pop
You might not have the
stamina you used to have
in the 1960s, but you can
still shuffle to the good
old American rock n
roll and Motown you get
with Shimmy Shimmy Coco
Pop. This month, EADJ
friend and collaborator
DJ Stickbug takes a
break from his 1950s and
1960s rockabilly-rocking
frontman duties in the 67s,
and lays down the Motown
alongside Superkid, who
will be dropping the good
time jams.
Jan. 24 at La Fenetre
Soleil, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1.
The get down starts at 9pm,
VND50,000 entry
Funky Technicians
Its not Vegas unless you have
a house band. And now, The
Grand-Ho Tram Strip has one
that would fit in any nightclub
in Las Vegas the irrepressible
HB Wild, led by bass-playing
dynamo Henri Brown, cousin
of Jimi Hendrix and son of
Music Hall of Fame inductee
Eleanor Collins. The six-person
ensemble busting out the funky
licks alongside him hails from
all over the funky globe, and

will be playing Club 9 weekly,
Tuesday through Sunday
nights. They cover everything
from rock to funk, pop to jazz
to soul, and have done so in hip
resorts the world over.
Catch HB Wild Tuesday to
Sunday nights at Club 9, in The
Grand-Ho Tram Strip. Call (08) 6437
88888 or visit thegrandhotramstrip.
com for more info
Thinking Inside the Box

Running until Jan. 12 is Jrmie
Settons Bote 2, a cultural proposal of
a new medium for visual artists a
box two metres wide, designed to
welcome a contemporary work of art.
The work intends to connect artists
and cultural professionals, through
a connection forged by a duplicate
box in Marseille. Together they form
a network, promoting the mobility of
French artists abroad and foreigners
in France.
Although its a bit high-concept for
some, this is the last remnant of the
excellent France-Vietnam Friendship
Year in Vietnam (the cross-culture
continues in 2014 in France). Go catch
it before another 10 years go by.
The exhibition is on until Jan. 12 at
The Observatory, corner of Le Lai and
Ton That Tung, Q1
money on
their
health
insurance.
How much
can you
save?
Call Anna on
0909 379 256
Email us: anna@
insuranceinvietnam.com
free
advice
Ho Chi minh city

what s on
REACHing for the Stars
They asked for the title pun by naming
their organisation REACH, but the
young people they help didnt ask for the
situations theyve found themselves in. To
benefit their good work, the charitable org
organised a cycling fundraiser this past
month, ascending the Hai Van mountain
pass near Danang. 30 participants, from
as far off as Thailand, took part in what
REACH hopes will be the first of many.
Theyre already planning next Decembers
ride, but their work doesnt wait till then
or they wouldnt have been able to provide
the free life skills and job training theyve
given to 9,000 disadvantaged youth over
the past five years.
To see more of REACHs work and how you
can get involved, go to reach.org.vn
The Month in San Art
Masters of Food and Wine

The name of this series doesnt just refer to
the Park Hyatt Saigons culinary maestros,
who will host the January edition on Jan.
18 at 2.30pm. It also refers to the classs
attendees, who will eat through some Saigon
staples, made by the hands of the chefs, and
learn to make their own. On the menu this
The New Sounds of the Park

Lounge
From Jan. 21 through Apr. 14, the Park
Hyatt Saigon is welcoming the classy
Canadian songstress Michle Kaye to
the Lounge, where shell be performing
every night except Tuesdays, from 8pm
to midnight. Her style is reminiscent of
classic era jazz singing from the likes of
Doris Day and Julie London but shes
also got her own style, winning a Toronto
Independent Music Award in 2007
before embarking on her Asian residency
adventure.
Park Hyatt Saigon is at 2 Lam Son Square,
Q1. Check parkhyattsaigon.com for details
time around are spring rolls with mustard

leaf, rice paper and seafood, and Vietnamese
crispy fried pork and BBQ duck crepes.
The Jan. 18 edition of Park Hyatt Masters of
Food and Wine is priced at VND1.1 million++
per person. To reserve your spot, email nguyen.
luu@hyatt.com or call (08) 3824 1234
San Arts tentacles are continuing to reach

through Saigon, into lecture halls and
shop windows, and into the unexpected
directions their fourth class of residents
will bring with them after this ongoing
session.
Part of the year-long Encounter series,
Assoc. Prof. Thanes Wongyannava
editor of a political science journal, art
writer and sociologist at Thammasat
University in Bangkok will discuss
his ideas concerning Buddhocentrism,
which embraces an idea of Buddhism in
contemporary life moving from a focus
on enlightenment towards a belief in all
things delightful. His two lectures are
at Hoa Sen University (8 Nguyen Van
Trang, Q1), Jan. 16 and Jan. 21.
Over at the Phuong My flagship store
(81 Le Thanh Ton, Q1), Phuong My
and San Arts second shop window silk
collaboration is ending on Jan. 15, and a
new installment is coming, courtesy of
Sandrine Llouquet. Through sci-fi and
astronomic symbolism, the artist will
explore the idea of the human body and
the transformation of the soul.
And at San Arts HQ, the group
exhibition of the last group of residents is
coming to a close, while the new group
is just settling in for their six-month
experience. See alumni Nguyen Hong
Ngoc and Phan Thao Nguyens Right
Fiction over at San Arts gallery space
(3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh) until Jan. 24,
and meet new residents Lai Thi Dieu Ha
from Hanoi, Le Phi Long from Hue and
Nguyen Van Du from Ho Chi Minh City
on Jan. 25 at 6pm at San Art Laboratory
(40/18 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh).
For more info on these events, head to sanart.org
Raising Saigons Michelin Stars

This month, the Caravelle has the pleasure
of hosting Chef Christopher Coutanceau,
holder of two Michelin stars at his
namesake restaurant in La Rochelle, disciple
of culinary legends such as Michel Guerard
and Ferran Adria. On Jan. 8 hell be holding
court at Reflections, teaching a menu of
mussels and shells, grilled red mullet with
shrimp tempura and smoked leek and
raspberry vinaigrette VND1.48 million
net per person.
From Jan. 8 to Jan. 12, Chef Coutanceau
will be preparing an a la carte menu,
a four-course degustation menu and a
testing menu featuring an appetiser

of caramelised, seared scallops and coral
lobster sauce, a main course of tuna and
vegetables piperade with grilled sardine
tapenade, and a pineapple ravioli with
lychee ice cream, passion fruit sorbet and
angel wings for dessert.
During the week, fashion designer Pascale
Valery Tung Lam will also showcase 30 of her
inspired dresses, while French photographer
Jean Luc Pechino will exhibit photos on the
intersection of fashion, art and gastronomy.
For more information, call (08) 3823 4999 or
email eam-fb@caravellehotel.com
The Crystal Ball

Venus in Vietnam
Goethe-Institut is organising a joint
exhibition of two Hanoi artists active a
generation apart Vu Dan Tan and Nguyen
Nghia Cuong focusing on the image of
femininity through sculture and installation
art. Venus in Vietnam will hit the Ho Chi
Minh City Museum of Fine Arts from
Jan. 11 to Jan. 24, with an opening on Jan.
10 and an art talk Jan. 12. This exhibition
marks the first-ever curated institutional
presentation of Tan, a seminal contemporary
artist whose multi-media cross-disciplinary
practice broke new ground in the 1980s
with its playful and conceptual use of
found materials, becoming one of the

leading artists of Vietnams post-Doi Moi
scene. Cuong, a graduate of Vietnam Fine
Arts University, will counterpoint Tans
perspectives with his ironic approach
to contemporary reality, dominated by
consumerism and brand-culture.
The opening is on Jan. 10 at 6pm, with an
introduction by curator Iola Lenzi and the
exhibition shows every day after until Jan. 24 at
the Museum of Fine Arts, 97A Pho Duc Chinh,
Q1. The art talk happens Jan. 12 at 3.30pm. For
more info, call (08) 3600 9588 or email prog@
saigon.goethe.org
Once again, CanCham is looking into

their crystal ball at the First International
Business Luncheon of the New Year of the
Horse The Year Ahead: Executive Summary
and Outlook 2014. This Jan. 16 at New World
Hotel, HR and recruitment, legal issues,
socio-economic development, investment
trends and more will be discussed, as
CanCham and cohosts from all over the
globe look forward to the unique challenges
and opportunities of the new year.
Tickets for the Jan. 16 luncheon are
VND850,000 for members of CanCham and
affiliate orgs, VND1.5 million for non-members,
VND7.5 million for a table of 10. Registration
is at 11am, the location is New World Hotel
at 76 Le Lai, Q1. To register, contact hcmc@
canchamvietnam.org or (08) 3824 3754
Ho Chi minh city

Just In
Home for the Holidays All

Year Round
Queens Hall
Local Legends
It looks like Q4s influence is spreading,

as the new space Events at Queens Hall
is opening up right across the alley at
5-7 Nguyen Tat Thanh. With 2,000sqm of
events space, the venue is set to welcome
gala dinners, TV shootings, product
launches and all the performances the
former nightclub occupants put on. The
focus is on state-of-the-art, and it looks like
District 4 is soon going to be a nightlife
force to be reckoned with. It also happens
to be the largest venue in or close to
downtown Saigon.
Events at Queens Hall is at 5 Nguyen
Tat Thanh, Q4. For more info, head to
eventsvietnam.com
The former owner of the Kebab Caf has

been busy. A couple of months ago, he
launched delishop.vn, an online shop
soon to complemented with a District 1
showroom dedicated to all the best
made-in-Vietnam products available.
Their range currently extends over 300
chocolate products, biscuits, candies
and dry fruits, tea and coffee, home and
beauty products and nice gift sets for all
occasions. In a few months time, theyre
hoping to ratchet up the offerings into
the 1,000-item range, and show a whole
new side to Vietnamese gourmanderie.
Search the current offerings at delishop.vn,
or call 0909 474534
Your in-laws are coming to town, and

you just want to enjoy your time off.
What to do? Employ the services of
the new and amazing Villa Song
Saigon, a 23-room boutique hotel on the
District 2 side of the river, and everybody
wins. The Villas got all the amenities,
with a 30m-long swimming pool, gym,
spa, bistro, meeting space and lushly
manicured gardens, but inside each
individually-tailored room youll find
the real draw. With technology, art and
traditional luxury meeting in a different
sweet spot in every room, every visit will
be uniquely relaxing especially if your
in-laws invite you to dinner.
Villa Song Saigon is at 197/2 Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2, or on (08) 3744 6090 and
villasongsaigon.com
AIS: Babies Edition

Australian International School has
just developed a childcare programme
in Thao Dien for kids two years and
younger, to support busy working
parents. Situated in the safe and secure
Xi Riverview Palace compound, the
Early Childhood Centre now offers a
stimulating and nurturing environment
for infants as young as three months,
toddlers and pre-school children up
to five years of age. Included in the
facilities are a soft play adventure
playground, a splash pool and two
age-appropriate soft turf playgrounds.
Teachers are qualified expat Early
Years professionals who teach through
purposeful play, laying a foundation
for years of future academic, social and
emotional success.
For more information, contact Ms. Thanh
Do at thanh.do@aisvietnam.com, call (08)
3519 2727 or head to aisvietnam.com
Lion City Exclusive in the

Superbowl
The expansion of the Singaporean
restaurant chain continues with their latest
offering in The Superbowl just down from
Tan Son Nhat Airport.
Combining Singaporean fare think
chilli crab, frog porridge, mee goreng and
nasi lemak with teppanyaki-style cooking,
the use of an open grill to prepare cuisine
in front of customers, here you have all the
flamboyance and magician-like skills of the
chef right at the table. Alternatively, you
can avoid the table-side entertainment and
eat like a normal diner with the fare coming
straight out of the kitchen.
As with all their other restaurants, Lion
City have a constant flow of promotions.
Simply click on ex.lioncity.com.vn to find
out whats on offer. And oh, damn the food
here is good!
Lion City Exclusive is at Superbowl, A43,
Truong Son, Ward 4, Tan Binh
The Same Great Taste in a New

Package
Saffron
Theres a newcomer to the Mediterranean
scene in Saigon, and its brushed past
North Africa, the Middle East, Greece,
Italy, Spain and southern France on the
way. Sister to fellow Tony Fox-owned
restos Ciao Bella and Phat Phuc, Saffron
brings the same quality and panache to
its cuisine, at reasonable prices as well.

The price hovers around VND190,000
for a three-course set lunch, with mains
coming in at around the VND200,000
mark.
Saffron is at 51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, or call
(08) 3824 8358
Just in time for the bleary eyes of New

Years Day, Italian Point is introducing new
packaging of the Punto Italia espressos
it distributes in places such as An Phu
Supermarket (43 Thao Dien, Q2), Central
Mart Saigon Pearl (Sapphire Tower 1, Saigon
Pearl, 92 Ham chui Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh), Tiep Thi Gia Dinh Foods (Kumho
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1) and Pendo Gourmet
Shop (83 Thao Dien, Q2). Using a modern
technology allowing for precise calibration
of each ground coffee, the company aims to
make it ideal for preparing espresso with
professional and home use machines.
For more info, visit italianpointvn.com
+84 8 3742 4040
enrolments@aisvietnam.com | www.aisvietnam.com
Hcmc
january 2014
venus in vietnam
ost-Doi Moi, the

representation of
women in Vietnamese
contemporary art
moved past the simple non
la and ao dai. This exhibition
presents the image of
femininity, in its playful and
ironic present definition.
Calligraphy Workshop
ont know your

chuc mung
from nam moi?
Join VinSpaces
calligraphy experts for two
sessions (kids and adults),
as they teach you to sketch
three of the luckiest words
in the Tet vocabulary.
Jan. 10 Fine Arts Museum
01 wednesday
New Years Day Lunch/Dinner. @ Nineteen restaurant, Caravelle

Hotel
02 thursday
Jan. 18 VinSpace Garage
13 Monday
14 Tuesday
Saigon Comedy Nights. 8pm @ Cargo Bar. See Big5
03 friday
15 Wednesday
04 saturday
Last day of Silk of Light exhibition. @ Phuong My Flagship Store

(81 Le Thanh Ton, D1)
Project Sci-Fi Awards party - Ceremony. 6.30pm @ Cargo Bar
16 Thursday
05 sunday
06 monday
07 tuesday
The Me Linh Drums performs. 8pm @ IDECAF. See Big5
08 wednesday
Culinary Class with Michelin-star Chef Christopher
Coutanceau. 2pm @ Reflections Restaurant, Caravelle Hotel. See
Whats On
09 thursday
10 friday
Last day to apply for ChopShots - Documentary Film Festival
Southeast Asia. Visit goethe.de for more info
Venus in Vietnam exhibition opening. 6pm @ Museum of Fine Arts
HCMC
11 saturday
CanCham Crystal Ball Luncheon. From 11am @ New World Hotel.

See Whats On
Canvas & Wine: Monet and the Impressionists. 56.30pm @
VinSpace Garage ( 95 Pasteur, D1)
Encounter Lecture with Thannes Wongyannava - Part 1. @
Hoa Sen University (8 Nguyen Van Trang, D1). See Whats On
17 Friday
Electric Kicks. 9pm @ Broma
18 Saturday
Detroit music legen Alton Miller in Saigon. 10pm @ The

Observatory. See Big5
Special Tet Calligraphy. 2 sessions for kids and adults @ VinSpace

Garage. Visit vin-space.com for more info
12 sunday
19 Sunday
Venus in Vietnam: Art Talk. 3.30pm @ Museum of Fine Arts HCMC
To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com

by no later than Jan. 15 with a description of the event and a high-res photo
Shimmy Shimmy Coco Pop
J Stickbug has made

the very-semisomewhat big time
with rockabilly
rockers the 67s, but he hasnt
forgotten his friends. To show
it, hell be DJing at Everyones
A DJs monthly good olfashioned rock n roll night at
Fenetre.
Lion Dance
oure already lucky if

youre heading to the
InterCon during Tet,
but the local dance
troupe theyve enlisted will
work on making you luckier,
with tail-shaking lion moves
that will leave you feeling
optimistic.
Jan. 31 InterContinental
Jan. 24 La Fenetre Soleil
20 Monday
27 Monday
21 Tuesday
Encounter Lecture with Thannes Wongyannava - Part 2. @
Hoa Sen University. See Whats On
Michle Kaye jazz performance. From 21 Jan. to Apr. 14 @ the
Lounge, Park Hyatt Saigon. See Whats On
22 Wednesday
Venus in Vietnam Exhibition. From Jan. 11 to 24 @ Museum of Fine
Arts HCMC
23 Thursday
Canvas & Wine: Paint like Paul Klee. 6.30pm @ VinSpace Art Sudio
(6 Le Van Mien, D2)
24 Friday
Last day of Right Fiction Exhibition. @ San Art (3 Me Linh, Binh
Thanh)
Tapas and Wine Pairing night. Every night in Jan. and Feb. @ Slate,
Moevenpick Hotel
28 Tuesday
29 Wednesday
Yee Sang dish for a lucky Tet. From Jan. 15 to 31 @ Li Bai, Sheraton
Saigon
30 Thursday
25
25 Saturday
saturday
San Art Laboratory Session 4: Open Studio. 6pm @ San Art

Laboratory (40/18 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh)
Full-course feast for Tet. From Jan. 30 to Feb. 5 @ Nineteen

restaurant, Caravelle Hotel
Lucky Cakes and Tet Hampers. Until Feb. 7 @ Cay Da Caf,
Moevenpick Hotel
26 Sunday
31 Friday
hanoi
what s on
BOOKWORMS TET MUSIC
SPECTACULAR
The guys at Bookworm are bringing some
cultural fare during the holiday time for
two nights only. First up is at Bookworm
Too on Jan. 25 in Nghi Tam Village from
1pm, while 24 hours later the same show is
at the Chau Long store, also from 1pm.
The melting pot features live traditional
Vietnamese orchestra, a traditional fortune
teller (with a translator available), Tet
calligraphy, the printing of lunar zodiac
animals, giving guests the chance to
make banh chung Tet cake, to he sticky rice
sculptures for kids, traditional rice wine
tasting and lastly free hot mulled Tet wine.
Ethnic Cham raku fired clay zodiac
animals, traditional and modern Tet toys
and some crazy book bargains are also in
store for guests.
Bookworm is located in Hanoi Cooking
Centre, 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh. Bookworm Too
is at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam, Tay Ho
CAMA SKANKS IT UP
Skank the Tank Reggae Soundsystems
monthly reggae night comes to its band
of followers on Jan. 3 at CAMA ATK.
Selectors Slo-Lo and Selecta Elpee will be
joined by a powerful selection of kick-ass
rum-heavy cocktails from 8pm to 11pm.
Entry is free. CAMA ATK is located at
73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. For more
info check out facebook.com/stt.soundsystem,
facebook.com/SubElements or, cama-atk.com
WINE TASTING WITH APPETIsERS

Lovers of fine wine are welcome to join
the wine tasting evening on Jan. 31 at
Millenium (Caf des Arts) (11b Ngo Bao
Khanh, Hoan Kiem) with some top offerings
proposed by The Warehouses specialists.
In case you get peckish there will be an
array of delicious appetisers. The wine
tasting evening takes place on the last
Thursday of every month.
For reservations contact Jeremie Hugues on
0904 323711 or Gerard Gastel on 0904 134490,
cafe-des-arts.com
GEEK FIGHT NIGHT

The night when Geeks nationwide converge
to prove how smart they really are will take
place on Jan. 7 at the House of Son Tinh.
There are eight categories with eight
questions each and the night kicks off at
9pm. You know the rules by now, so get
your maximum of five team members,
come up with a name, reserve a table at Son
Tinh Lounge Bar, study hard and show up.
The winning team will net two bottles
of Son Tinh Premium Liquor and a
VND500,000 Son Tinh voucher.
Son Tinh Lounge Bar is at 31 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3718 6377
HIP-HOPPERS HEEM AND

DESPOTS DOUBLE BILL
POETRY AND DANCE IN ONE

SPACE
Hanoi art lovers will have to chance to see
an interesting event featuring legendary
poet Duong Tuong and Butoh dancer Siu
Pham at Manzi Art Space (14 Phan Huy
Ich, Ba Dinh) this month. Organisers insist
that this is an exploration of the two into
the poetic and surreal world of word and
physical movements.
The event, supported by the Cultural
Development and Exchange Fund, takes
place from 8.30pm on Jan. 25.
Entry is free and you can pre-register at
manzihanoi@gmail.com before 3pm on Jan 22
Heems of Das Racist fame will be blazing

CAMA ATK alongside New York City
rapper Despot in a night which organisers
claim will blow you away on Jan. 24.
Das Racist, a hip hop group based in
Brooklyn, New York City, were an internet
sensation in 2008 with their comical rap
tune, Combination Pizza Hut and Taco Bell.
Celebrated mixtapes followed, certifying
their knack for humorous yet skill-laden
performances and heavy-hitting tunes.
Their debut album reached many albums
of the year lists, including Rolling Stone
and Spin magazines, and similar is to be
expected of Heems heavily anticipated
debut solo venture for Sony/Megaforce to
be released this year.
Despot is another NYC scene stalwart.
He was signed to rapper El-Ps label
Definitive Jux in 2004, and is co-owner of
Santos Party House. Having been on the
scene for over a decade he has collaborated
and performed with the likes of Vampire
Weekend, Killer Mike and Danny Brown.
Tickets are VND150,000 or you can get a
special deal to catch this one and South Rakkas
(Jan. 23) together for VND200,000 (advance)
at ticketbox.vn or CAMA ATK (73 Mai Hac
De, Hai Ba Trung), cama-atk.com. The show is
from 8pm till midnight
ECO
CHIC
tMetiseko makes your

[travel] wardrobe and interior eco chic.
Boutique : 71 Hng Gai, Qun Hon Kim, H Ni
www.metiseko.com
hanoi
what s on
DUDE BACK WITH VINYL IN HAND

That man is back. The Swiss legend returns
after his meltdown success at CAMA ATK
last summer. The rare vinyl collector shares
his world beats and once again takes us on a
journey through his awesome vinyl collection.
The Dude of Stratosphere (aka Jerome
Doudet) is world-renowned for scouring
the best music from 50s/60s/70s funk and
afro through to pop, disco, and multitudes
of unheard gems from across the globe. The
night kicks off at 8pm and finishes up at
midnight on Jan. 4.
Tickets are priced at VND100,000 (in
advance) from ticketbox.vn or CAMA ATK (73
Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung), cama-atk.com. For
more info http://official.fm/etomdot
THE BROKEN CHAPTERS UNVEILED

Manzi Art Space this month features The
Broken Chapters by Hanoi-based visual artist Nguyen Tran Nam who is showcasing
his new series of text installations, video
art and paintings.
Nam, considered one of the secondwave contemporary artists in Hanoi,
features the video of a bullet ripping
through the air, looped and muted, texts
on executions, a home video of a father
and sons bonding, a group photograph of

young men, smiling and almost washed
out, and two conversations between a
father and his son.
The works are rooted in the stories of
his own life but reach out to tell the stories
of others.
The exhibition opens on Jan 6. at 6pm at
Manzi Art Space, 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh.
Entry is free
SHIMMY ON DOWN TO JAZZ NIGHT

Responding to its regulars many requests
for a casual place to relax and mingle with
friends after a long day of work and some
good quality jazz to take your mind off the
midweek stress, Millenium (Caf des Arts)
is offering up a Jazz Night.
Featuring Domino Jazz band on the
venues stunning terrace available every
second Thursday of the month where you
can come along with your friends and join
a fab night of music, food and wine from
7pm to 10pm with some top jazz acts lined
up at the caf.
For reservations contact Gerard Gastel
on 0904 134490 or check cafe-des-arts.com.
Millenium is at 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
MADAKES COLLECTIVE SPECTACULAR

The Nam Jam Collective Spectacular will
take over Madake promising to bring
something well spectacular to the capital.
The Nam Jam team will reunite on Jan.
17 with DJs BlipBlop and &ndy leading the
way for a night of bouncy beats, general
mischief and unrestrained shenanigans.
Expect future classics of the house, disco,
techno and bass variety with plenty of

genre bending throughout the night.
Making an appearance will be some special
guests.
The night kicks off at 10pm, free entry.
Madake is at 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6276 6665. Nam Jam Collective Podcast series
can be found at djbreadman.com/namjam
hanoi
Just In
SOUTH RAKKAS FILTHY SOUND SYSTEM
Nan n Kebab
Serving up Pakistani, Afghan, Turkish and
Middle Eastern cuisine, Nan n Kebab has
opened up next to the Syrena Centre on
Xuan Dieu, on the site formerly occupied
by pho ga joint, Ba Chi Em.
With a refit in tow, a lunchtime menu
with dishes from a canteen stand is backed
up by more extensive fare at night. A large
range of kebabs and BBQ specials are
on offer, as are biryanis, masala dishes,
vegetarian curries and some of the best nan
you will taste in the capital. Try the Kandari
and Roghani nan for something a little
more unusual. All the cuisine is Halal.
Nan n Kebab is at 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Prepare yourself for an electro-dancehall

workout in Mad Decent proportions at
CAMA ATK, as the man who pioneered that
genre stops by Hanoi for an awesome night
of Jamaican sound clash culture fused with
electronic beats. Jamaican-born and Florida
resident, this is none other than South
Rakkas, known for his hook-laden song
structures, filthy sound system beats and
killer rhythms.
These winning elements have flung South
Rakkas around the globe and garnered his
reputation as one of the best in dancehall
electro riddims, attracting remix-duty from
artists such as M.I.A and Tricky, production
duties for Duran Duran, Justin Timberlake,

Britney Spears, Shakira, and signing up with
Diplos notorious Mad Decent label.
He runs a label and production team
in Florida. The Jan. 23 gig is part of his
Asian tour which includes dates in China,
Cambodia, India and Taiwan.
For more info on the man facebook.com/
southrakkascrew. Tickets are VND150,000
or you can get a special deal to catch this gig
and Heems & Despot (Jan. 24.) together for
VND200,000 (advance) at ticketbox.vn or
CAMA ATK (73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung),
cama-atk.com. The show is from 8pm until
midnight
BURGER KING OPENS AT NOI BAI

Travellers passing through Hanois Noi Bai
Airport wont miss out on a Whopper as
the capitals international airport has a new
Burger King outlet.
Located in the international departure
area which means youve got to go
through immigration to get your fix it is
the first international fast food chain to be
housed in the airport complex. American
fast food giant BK now has six stores
stationed at the nations airports.
For more info click on facebook.com/
burgerkingvn.fp
Just Out
After rumours, talk, speculation and
more rumours, the controversy that has
engulfed Zone 9 has finally come to the
fore. According to reports from venue
owners and the media-at-large, the entire
area will be shut down on Jan. 15.
This is the second time that Zone 9
has been officially closed. So, make sure
you give it all your support over the next
couple of weeks.
Zone 9 is at 9 Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung
hanoi
january 2014
The Dude is Back
hats rare vinyl

worth if you have
no-one to share it
with? The Dude of
Stratosphere has us, and hell
be bringing his trunk of funk
to ears that have been starved
since his appearance last
summer.
Nam Jam Spectacular
hen DJs BlipBlop

and &ndy get
together, you
know to expect
bouncy beats, future classics
of house, disco and techno
and shenanigans. What you
dont know is what else to
expect, but it promises to be
spectacular.
Jan. 4 CAMA ATK
01 wednesday
02 thursday
The Journey of Life. by Nguyen The Thien @ Chula. Runs until Feb. 20
Jan. 17 Madake
13 Monday
14 Tuesday
03 friday
Screening of Radio Stars. @ LEspace, 8pm
Skank the Tank. Reggae Soundsystem @ Cama ATK, 8pm to 11pm
Friday night on the Terrace. @ The Press Club
04 saturday
The Dude (Switzerland). @Cama ATK, 8pm to 12pm
05 sunday
06 monday
Opening of The Broken Chapters by Nguyen Tram Nam. @
Manzi, 6pm. Runs until Jan. 25
Galette des Rois or Twelth Night Cake night. @ Millenium, Cafe
Des Arts
Hanoi Photography Workshop by Justin Mott. @ Xuan Dieu.

Runs until 17 Jan.
15 Wednesday
16 Thursday
Right or Wrong? Talk show with Giang Dang. @ Manzi, 7.30pm
17 Friday
07 tuesday
Geek Fight Night. @ The House of Son Tinh, from 9pm
08 wednesday
09 thursday
Piano Recital with Edna Stern. @ LEspace, 8pm
10 friday
Live Jazz. @Millenium, Cafe Des Arts, 6pm
Screening of Curs. @ LEspace, 8pm

Nam Jam Collective. @ Madake
11 saturday
18 Saturday
Guitar Recital with Tran Tuan An. @@ LEspace, 8pm
12 sunday
19 Sunday
To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhanoi.com

by no later than Jan. 15 with a description of the event and a high-res photo
Tet Melting Pot Toasting Tet
et is coming, and your

favourite bookworms
have researched all
the most creative ways
to make you smile. Expect
fortune telling, calligraphy,
music, banh chung cake
making, sticky rice sculptures
and more.
oull get your fill of

rice wine in the coming
week, but for now The
Warehouse has some
other varieties on sample, to be
paired with some very un-Tet
traditional appetisers.
Jan. 25 + 26 Bookworm
20 Monday
Tet Buffet. @ Sheraton Hotel. Runs until 9 Feb.
21 Tuesday
22 Wednesday
Jan. 31 Millenium (Caf des Arts)
27 Monday
28 Tuesday
29 Wednesday
23 Thursday
30 Thursday
South Rakkas (Florida, U.S.A). @ CAMA ATK, 8pm to 12pm
24 Friday
Heems (Das Racist) & Despot. @ Cama ATK, 8pm to 12pm
25
25Saturday
saturday
Tet Eve. Lights and celebrations around the capital for welcoming in
The Year of the Horse
Vietnamese New Year Experience. @ Novotel Ha Long, 6.30 pm to
9.30pm
31 Friday
Butoh Dance and Poetry. @ Manzi, 8.30 pm

The Bookworm and Hanoi Cooking Centres annual Tet
Festival. @ Bookworm Too in Nghi Tam Village, 1pm
26 Sunday
The Bookworm and Hanoi Cooking Centres annual Tet
Festival. @ 44 Chau Long, 1pm
The Warehouse wine tasting. @ Millenium, Cafe Des Arts, 6pm
in the papers
The Best of the VietnameSe Press
HOANG SA ARCHIPELAGO
(VIETNAM)
British Council unveils new English test
TRUONG SA ARCHIPELAGO
(VIETNAM)
British Council Vietnam has launched a new

English test Aptis which can be applied in
businesses, universities and the educational
system in general.
Eldon Pascoe, director of professional
and teacher development at British Council,
said that this is a flexible test, with 15
solution packages that are dependent on the
demands and strategies of each business.
Aptis was released last year and brought
to Vietnam earlier this year with a number

of businesses and universities showing
interest in the programme, Pascoe added.
Aptis is expected to be used widely like
other popular tests such as IELTS, TOEFL
and TOEIC.
Test takers can access online tests via
mobile phones, computers, tablets and other
handy devices. The results will be given
within 48 hours.
Chinese tourists head for

Danang at Tet
Womens Football Team in Cash Windfall

Members of Vietnams womens football
team will be awarded a total of VND3.3
billion (US$158,700) for winning silver at
the 27th Southeast Games in Myanmar in
December.
It is a double reward for the team, who
lost 2-1 to Thailand in the final, as it was
announced before the tournament that they
would net VND1.5 billion (US$72,100) for a
silver medal and VND2 billion for gold.
The increase of the cash prize comes
after the mens team failed to qualify for

the semifinals, said acting chairman of the
Vietnam Football Federation, Le Hung
Dung. The mens money is withdrawn and
added to the prize fund for the womens
team.
During the games, Vietnam won 73 gold,
86 silver and 86 bronze medals to finish
third behind Thailand who bagged 107
golds and were 21 clear of second-placed
Myanmars gold tally.
The central coastal city of Danang during

Tet is expected to attract around 4,000
daily Chinese tourists, with most of them
arriving on chartered flights.
Danang now has 16 chartered flights
from China, mainly from Guangzhou,
Hangzhou, Chengdu, Xian and Shanghai.
[The numbers of] Chinese visitors
coming to Danang are expected to rise
further in the forthcoming Lunar New Year
holiday, said Tran Chi Cuong, deputy
director of the citys Department of Culture,
Sports and Tourism. From the 30th day
of the 12th lunar month to the seventh day
of the first lunar month, the city will serve
about 4,000 travelers from China per day.
At present, most Chinese visitors
arrive in Danang on chartered flights
and stay at hotels and resorts of four to
five-star standards for touring the city and
destinations like Hoi An and Hue, while
others are taken to the city by the cruise line
StarCruises.
in the papers
Ford Vietnam rolls out New
Fiesta in Hai Duong
Ford Vietnam unveiled the small car New
Fiesta equipped with an award-winning
1.0L EcoBoost engine at its manufacturing
facility in Hai Duong Province.
The New Fiesta, a diamond white fourdoor sedan and five-door hatchback, will
deliver fuel efficiency, contributing to the
reduction of CO2, led by Fords patented
new 1.0L EcoBoost engine. It also offers
Ford Sync, Smart Keyless Entry and Ford
Power Start button.
The New Fiesta is now available in the
local market with prices at VND659 million
for 1.0L Fox Sport AT 5 doors, VND549
million for Fiesta Trend 1.5L MT 4 doors,
VND579 million for Fiesta Trend 1.5L AT 5
doors and VND612 million for 1.5 L Sport
AT 5 doors and Titanium AT 4 doors.
Travel Firms Team Up to

Boost Sales
Eight travel companies in Ho Chi Minh City
have teamed up to facilitate operations and
improve products, launch tours with the best
prices, run common advertising programmes
and create unanimous departure schedules
to attract local and international travelers.
The group, Vietnam Consortium Group,
consists of VietJet Tours, Viking Travel, Asian
Travel, OSC First, Saigon Travel, Lac Hong
Voyage, Vietnam Travel and Viet A Au.
Cao Pham Hang, director of VietJet
Tours, the group leader, said that as each
enterprise has its own advantages, they
have decided to cooperate to reach better
prices during negotiations with air carriers
and other service providers.
The group will also join hands in
advertising. Customers selecting one of
the eight companies will get the same tour
prices, services and departure times.
VietJet Tours is a rare enterprise in Ho
Chi Minh City providing tours to Jeju
Island in South Korea without the need
for visas. Therefore, it has negotiated with
partners in South Korea to give this benefit
to other members of the group.
Disaster Fighting Fund

To help localities finance the aftermath
of natural disasters, local enterprises will
probably have to pay between VND1 million
and VND100 million each annually as part of
their operational expenses.
This is one of the contents in the draft of
a decree on establishing and managing the
natural disaster prevention and control fund
presented for comment by the Ministry of
Agriculture and Rural Development.
For the disaster control fund, besides local
companies as compulsory contributors, all
citizens aged from 18 will also have to make
contributions.
The natural disaster control fund has
suffered deficits over the past few years, said
Nguyen Xuan Dieu, deputy director of the
Directorate of Water Resources under the
agriculture ministry. For example, in 2012, the
storm and flood control fund of the southern
province of Binh Duong collected less than
VND10 billion while its spending was
roughly VND20 billion, he cited.
It has been suggested that the fund
collection from large cities and provinces with
huge numbers of enterprises and populations
like Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City could
be transferred to other localities which are
attacked by storms and floods annually
to help them repair the aftermaths of such
natural disasters.
The nation has lost over VND50 trillion due
to storms and floods in the past three years.
Insider
The Province In-Between 042 / The islands 052 / arts of the city 080 / The Future
of Vietnamese Dance 084 / The Caffeine Contests 088 / vegetarian hanoi 096 /
beer club evolution 100 / mystery diner hanoi 104 / stReet snacker hanoi 105 /
street snacker hcmc 106 / tusks & Dust 108
Photo by nick ross
The marina at Sentosa Cove in Singapore
Ninh Thuan Special
The Province
In-Between
n Vietnams south central coast, between Phan Thiet and

Nha Trang, is a province of extraordinary beauty. Lush
forests stretch along pristine coastline while sweeping desert
landscapes give way to rare geological phenomena. Home
to two national parks, much of the arid scenery and desert flora
remains untouched. The culture and traditions of ethnic minorities
are preserved in small, rural communities and in centuries-old ruins.
Ethnic, religious and cultural diversity flourish while strangers still
greet each other with smiles.
As southern Vietnams poorest and least industrialised region, its
unspoilt terrain and cultural history has hardly been a focal point in
tourists guidebooks. But with recent development, the area around Phan
Rang is emerging as an enticing destination, far enough off of the tourist
trail to get a welcome respite, yet close enough for easy access.
By meeting the people, exploring the places and experiencing the
still undeniable charm of this untainted territory, we uncover the sights,
sounds and spirit of the forgotten province, Ninh Thuan.
Words by Karen Hewell. Photos by Francis Roux
Ninh Thuan Special
A
World
Away
Nui Chua National Park
is a new ecotourism
destination in Vietnam.
One luxurious getaway,
Amanoi, has recently
made its home on the edge
of the parks rolling hills,
bringing with it something
unexpected and new
his one, over here.

A slight, smiling woman in
crisp white linen reaches out
for my arm and leads me past
a pearly white sedan, my carry-on bag slung
over her shoulder. Ive just arrived at the
airport in Nha Trang, and I thought Id be
beckoned to the nearest luxury four-door
sedan. It is, after all, transport to a five-star
resort. Instead, she leads me a few spaces
back to a dusty gold SUV. Its not exactly
what I expected.
Do you need anything before we leave?
She climbs into the front seat and buckles
her seatbelt before turning around to look at
me. Its a long drive.
Over the two-hour journey, massive
paved highways slowly give way to dusty,
unpaved side roads and finally to narrow
mountain pathways. Amanoi Resort a
collection of luxury villas in the picturesque
Vinh Hy Bay is tucked away within Nui
Chua National Park, an isolated corner
of Ninh Thuan thats home to only a few
scattered villages and desert. The vehicle
suddenly makes sense conquering these

uncomfortable bumps and shimmies past
boulders and shrubs demands a lot more
than two-wheel drive. Going by limousine
would be madness.
Harmony and Escape

When we arrive, Im offered a drive in a
small cart to my villa number 22, on the
other side of the resort but after two hours
in what felt like an off-road expedition,
I decide to walk. The winding pathway
snakes almost endlessly through dense
foliage, and I can barely see my feet in the
dim glow. I turn at the little stone marked 22
and walk up a narrow pathway to a small
house hidden in a thicket of trees. Its so
alarmingly quiet that the only thing I hear
is the wind and the click of the lock when I
turn the key.
Mine is just one of the 31 villas or
pavilions as they are referred to by the
property perched on the rolling hills in
Amanoi, which are built into the landscape
with almost undetectable simplicity. The
exterior blends so well with the natural

energy of the environment that it blurs the
lines between the manmade structure and
the scenery. The architecture has a similar
effect matte wooden panels and a sloping
ceiling are coupled with windows rather
than walls. The window above my bathtub
frames a breathtaking view of the entire bay.
I really am nestled right into the wilderness.
When I pull back the opaque woven
curtains, I half expect to see desert wildlife
darting through the trees.
The air of seclusion owes not just to the
architecture, but also to the location. Nui
Chua National Park is a heavily protected
natural environment thats seen almost
no urban development save some small
minority communities and a few small
neighbouring resorts. The area is devoid
of almost any human disturbance, and
what roads do run through the area are still
largely unpaved. With few streets leading
into the park and even fewer amenities, the
national park is hardly a tourist hub. But
with the absence of people in Nui Chua
comes one unique benefit for Amanoi the

absence of sound.
Silence is Golden
An hour later while I am sitting down
for dinner in the restaurant with a stunning,
unobstructed view of the bay cliffs
everyone seems keenly aware of the silence.
The staff speaks in hushed voices, and the
room deliberately void of music makes even
my whispering feel like shouting. I can hear
the clink of the spoon when I stir my coffee,
and the tables are so widely spaced that even
conversations between other guests dissolve
into the breeze.
The silence encompasses every element of
Amanoi. Down to the electric carts buzzing
at an almost inaudible level and the open-air
buildings that are seemingly without echo,
the serenity of the natural scenery seems
like it informed every detail of the design.
The effect is an experience so harmonious
with the environment that, even when
curled up under the 800-thread-count cotton
sheets, it feels oddly like camping. The
sedative calmness and unexpected sense

of communing with nature comes down to
nothing more than the removal of excess.
Somewhere Else Entirely

That night, I crack open a book on my back
patio. The coffee machine buzzes while I dip
my feet into the pool and cicadas hum in
the trees. In this kind of serenity, its easy to
forget the honking and blaring of the urban
roads or the intrusive glare of streetlights.
With the swaying trees and the dim glow
from my villa windows, its easy to forget
the city.
Although my stay here is two nights, Im
already realising that I had forgotten what
silence and seclusion felt like. Perhaps it
owes more to the location in a national
park, its easy to achieve silence and
isolation. But in a place where it would be
easy to overpower natural beauty, Amanoi
manages to keep things simple. Maybe thats
the goal. Luxury isnt necessarily about
thread counts and expensive food. Maybe
its just this peace and quiet.
Ninh Thuan Special
Beyond the Bay

With its crystal-clear waters and breathtaking views, Vinh Hy Bay boasts
some of the most pristine coastline in Vietnam. Yet, located on the edge
of Nui Chua National Park, one tiny fishing community continues
life with the ebb and flow of the tide
ve been doing this for nearly 20

years almost as long as Ive
used this.
57-year-old Thanh holds a
moth-eaten, floppy hat to his chest and
nods toward a rusted old sewing machine.
Bursts of wind tug at the net he is mending
its so strong that a few women nearby
have already abandoned their work and are
hunched behind a decrepit building. A few
braver souls still have their noses inches from
their own machines, feeding endless green
fishing net through the humming shuttle.
The ferocious gusts mean that no boats will
go out tonight. Instead, the fishermen focus
on preparing for the next outing.
If the weather is good, we go out every
night after the sun sets. When the weather
is like this, though, we have to stay on land
and fix our nets, he says, pulling his floppy
hat over his head again before hunching back
over his makeshift table.
Into the Night

For this tiny community living on Vinh Hy
Bay, these nets and boats are its life force.
Fishermen venture into the sea every night
at 3am, the high-powered fishing lights
a lure for curious mackerel and tuna that
come here each breeding season. The catches
are shipped to cities throughout Vietnam,
bringing in the capital to support the
communitys fragile economy. Most families
here have been fishing for generations.
One younger man cutting away old
fishing line from the net is wearing a pink
baseball cap and rubber sandals. His name is

Duc, and while only 24 now, he started in the
trade when he was 18, later than other boys
who normally start as young as 14 or 15. Like
the others, he leads a nocturnal life, returning
to shore just before the sunrise and sleeping
during the day. The town is eerily quiet
during the afternoon and begins to stir again
only at dusk, when hands are busy preparing
nets and boats for the evenings outing.
Unsullied Simplicity
Most of the boats that are leashed to the
docks are fishing vessels, but a few newer
ones are glass-bottom touring boats that
float over the bays coral reefs. Its one of
the ecological features of Vinh Hy Bay that
draws in increasing numbers of visitors.
Since the tiny village is only a few minutes
drive from a handful of newly completed
luxury resorts and is just off the Nui Chua
coastal road, the sleepy little town is
becoming a stop on the ever-growing Ninh
Thuan tourist trail.
Regardless, the community remains calm
and undeterred. The fishermen still rise as
the sun falls and set sail under the cover of
night. The little shops sell no souvenirs
only chewing gum and soda along with the
odd facemask or magazine. Even with the
recent upturn in tourism in Vinh Hy Bay, the
fishermen in the village lead simple lives.
Perhaps, in the coming years, it will lose its
uncomplicated charm. For now, though, Vinh
Hy Bays little fishing village is as placid and
alluring as the bay water itself.
Ninh Thuan Special
City of the People

Phan Rang is not just your standard provincial capital,
it is the centre of Vietnams Cham population,
the people who once lorded over
large swathes of Central Vietnam
ven though the twin city of Phan

Rang-Thap Cham is technically
the provincial capital of Ninh
Thuan, its hard to believe a place
where farmers steering herds of cattle
down the street is the local nexus of
industrialisation. But since Ninh Thuan
remains the poorest and least developed
province in southern Vietnam, perhaps
the citys rustic simplicity shouldnt be a
surprise.
Once part of the Champa kingdom,

todays Phan Rang stands on the ancient city
of Panduranga. After an extended period
of turbulence, in 1832 the area became part
of modern day Vietnam. Although the city
has recently shared in Vietnams economic
development, woven into its urban fabric are
distinct remnants of the days of yore.
Dotted with amenities indistinctive from
other metropolises in Vietnam, the outer
townships within Phan Rangs municipal
borders are a different story. Reached only

by sparsely populated highways through
endless fields, this area is home to Phan
Rangs most populous ethnic minority, the
Cham, whose craft villages and centuriesold temples maintain the air of history and
ancient culture that still permeates the city.
Culture as Artefact
Since Phan Rang is hardly a stop on the
tourist trail, the only souvenirs you are likely
Da Lat Thap Cham Railway

Built by the French to traverse lush, mountainous territory and
jungle, the Da Lat Thap Cham railway once connected the two
cities of Da Lat and Thap Cham. However, the war years saw the
line suffer continuous sabotage and destruction it eventually
fell out of use in the late 1960s. Unique for its zigzagging path and
rack rail construction that anchored the train cars to the tracks over
mountainous areas, the former cog railway passes through some
of the most stunning scenery in Vietnam. A small section of the

line between Da Lat and a small neighboring village of Trai Mat
was recently refurbished and opened as a tourist attraction. It still
operates today. Unfortunately the tracks that took the train up and
down the steep inclines of the mountains were dismantled during
the war. There is talk of rebuilding the line most of its tunnels and
embankments remain. But at present it is only talk.
Even further beyond the citys

metropolitan centre, the sleepy village of
My Nghiep seems too isolated to be a craft
village. Beyond the derelict homes and
livestock paddocks, however, an entire
building is dedicated to the weaving of
traditional brocade fabrics. Although the
geometric patterns and vivid colours would
be familiar to anyone whos roamed the
souvenir shops of Ho Chi Minh City or
Hanoi, venturing past the front entrance
reveals a handful of men and women
working threads through traditional Cham
weaving frames.
Monuments of History
to find are in small craft villages outside

of the city centre. The pottery-making
neighbourhood of Bau Truc the oldest
in Vietnam still creates brownish red
earthenware made of clay collected at the
nearby Quao River. Most families in this
small town have long-since given up the
trade, but the few that continue are tucked
away in houses-cum-showrooms that sell
their wares to the trickles of tourists passing
through.
Thanks to efforts to preserve dying art forms,

in recent years the traditional handicrafts
of Phan Rang have enjoyed a renaissance.
However, the most obvious testaments to
Cham history and culture are not something
that can fit in a shopping bag. The majestic
constructions that give the twinned city of
Phan Rang its name Thap Cham, meaning
Cham Tower immortalise the legacy of the
Cham kingdom on hills that peer over the
city below.
The largest temple, Po Klong Garai, was
built in veneration of its namesake, King
Po Klaung Garai. The Cham believe that
after the kings death, he became a god and
protector of the people on earth. Even now,
centuries after its construction, the pungent
sweetness of incense still wafts through the
temples three towers, paying homage to the
ancient king.
Dozens of other temples dot the
skyline of Thap Cham, most constructed with
the red brick and thin mortar lines that are
iconic to Cham ruins. Some have intricate
sculptures in the likeness of the Hindu
goddess Shiva protecting their gateways a
remnant of the Hindu roots of Cham culture
before the 15th century. And although these
majestic structures hark back to the Cham
peoples polytheistic past, their descendants
have taken on a spiritual diversity that adds
to the regions cultural mosaic.
Kate Festival
The Kate Festival, most commonly held
in late October to early November, takes
place annually throughout Ninh Thuan.
Thousands of ethnic Cham and Raglai
people considered the youngest
relatives of the ancient Cham kingdom
descend upon the countrys Cham
Temples to celebrate and commemorate
the ancient Champa kings. Through

sacrifices of food, clothing and livestock
to this day, the festival still includes the
sacrifices of a live cow the Kate Festival
follows the oldest form of Cham spiritual
belief while preserving the traditional
dance, costumes and songs of the
resident ethnic groups of Ninh Thuan.
The Spiritual Centre (s)

Most of Phan Rangs Cham population
now practice variations of Islam, Hinduism
and Buddhism, and often reside in distinct
religious centres that cluster around the
citys outer limits. A powerful revival of
Islam came with the return of Cham people
living in predominantly Muslim countries
like Malaysia. The people of a more syncretic
form of Islam which combines Islamic
beliefs with Cham traditions like matriarchy
and ancestral veneration continue to live
alongside what the locals refer to as new
Muslims.
The community of Ninh Phuoc District
to the south of Phan Rang is home to two
mosques, one the largest in Vietnam. Here,
both Cham and ethnically Vietnamese
Muslims uphold the pillars of faith. Arabic
inscriptions above the doors of private
homes and locals roaming the dusty
neighborhood alleyways in Islamic dress
are a testament to the virtually undisturbed
spirituality that lingers in this small
community.
An Ageless City
Phan Rang may not be a marvel of
modernity and development, but it doesnt
have to be. Still unmarred by the fervent
industrialisation that has stripped so many
cities of their identity, Phan Rang manages
to preserve the monuments and livelihoods
that speak of its ancient past. With the citys
unabashed embrace of diversity, visitors to
Phan Rang can still experience a palpable
history that lingers in the ancient bricks of
the Cham temples and the dexterous hands
of craftspeople. For now, the city of Phan
Rang offers a glimpse into the colourful
past of this country a characteristic that is
disappearing with each passing year. Who
knows for how long Phan Rang will hold on
to its simple, untainted charm.
Preserving a History
While the Cham temples remain a
steadfast monument to Cham culture
throughout Ninh Thuan, Cham culture,
language and customs are slowly being
swept away. One group of researchers
and activists, led by university lecturer
and ethnic Cham Truong Van Mon, are
working to preserve Cham culture through
the education of customs, handicrafts
and the Cham language throughout
Vietnam. To find more information on their
upcoming projects and ways to support
the organisation, visit chamunesco.com.
Ninh Thuan Special
Destination
Ninh Thuan
Nui Chua National Park
and Vinh Hy Bay
Ninh Hai
Regular buses and coaches run from
Phan Rang to Nui Chua National Park,
which encompasses a wide, mountainous
promontory with a semi-arid climate,
lending to its desert-like foliage alongside
forest trees. Some sections of coastline are
sites for sea turtle breeding, and the marine
park just off-shore is home to beautifully
intact coral reefs.
Amanoi Resort
Vinh Hy Bay, Ninh Hai
amanresorts.com/amanoi/resort
A contemporary beachside resort spa named
for the Sanskrit-derived word for peace
and the Vietnamese word noi meaning
place, Amanoi is situated on a white-sand
beach overlooking spectacular Vinh Hy Bay.
Panoramic views mixed with the aesthetics
of locally-inspired luxury make this one of
the most unique and well-appointed resorts
in Vietnam. Even if youre not staying there,
the restaurant is a must-visit if you can brave
the bad roads.
Po Klong Garai Temple

Bac Ai, Do Vinh, Thap Cham
The older of the two Ninh Thuan Cham
temples, Po Klong Garai temple is located
on a lush hill in Bac Ai. The temple consists
of three towers a main tower, gate tower
and a longer tower with a saddle-shaped
roof. The site was built to pay homage to
the Champa king Po Klaung Garai in the
13th century. From the hilltop it stands on,
visitors can see stunning views of the city
and countryside below.
Po Ro Me Temple
Hau Sanh, Ninh Phuoc
Like its cousin temple, the Po Ro Me Cham
tower is dedicated not to a Hindu diety,

but to King Po Rome. Built in the 17th
century, Po Ro Me is one of the last Cham
temples constructed, and is less intricate
and delicately engineered than other Cham
temples. The temple is located south of Phan
Rang, and is perched atop a hill that boasts
stunning views of the area below.
My Nghiep Fabric Village

My Nghiep, Ninh Phuoc
Located 10km south of central Phan Rang
off Highway 1A and also known as Lang
Cham Irahani, the entrance to the sleepy
village of My Nghiep is guarded by an
archway that leads to a long, unpaved
road. Finding it can be difficult without
help enlisting the aid of a xe om makes
it easier. My Nghiep seems sleepy enough,
but venture further in and you will find a
Cham-inspired building that houses the
local fabric cooperative.
Bau Truc Pottery Village

Phuoc Dan, Ninh Phuoc
Bau Truc Pottery Village is tucked within the
Phuoc Dan, not far from My Nghiep, and is
the oldest of its kind in Vietnam. Most of the
pottery-making homes are located on the
main village road and do not have marked
signs, so keep an eye out for the little
showrooms hiding under the shade.
Ca Na Beach
Ca Na, West of Highway 1A
Ca Na not only has the pristine beaches
that combine the beauty of white sand,
rocky cliffs and lush forests, but also the
promontories and natural geography benefit
from Ninh Thuans year-round mild and
cool weather. A few resorts line the coast,
and if you wake up early enough, you might
see local fisherman hauling in their morning
catch. Known for its seafood products
including nuoc mam (fish sauce).
When
Madonna
sang La Isla
Bonita meaning
the beautiful island
in Spanish she sang
of a place of her dreams, a place where
she longed to be. San Pedro isnt a real island,
but it didnt matter, the yearning was there.
Artists and bands of yesteryear Jethro Tull, Elton John, Dolly Parton, Barbara Streisand,
The Bee Gees, Blondie, Bob Marley, Tony Bennett, Jimmy Buffet, XTC and even Weezer
have all sung about islands, have all expressed that odd desire that human
beings have to be on a piece of land surrounded by a body of water. Its romantic,
exotic, endearing there is something about the geographical and
metaphysical nature of islands that drives the imagination.
Over the next few pages weve let our imagination go on overdrive. By boat, plane, bridge
and ferry weve reached islands in Vietnam, The Philippines and Singapore. In every
instance weve come back again. Although on the odd occasion or five, its been a close call.
The Islands
January
2014
Word
| 53
Photo
by Ed
Weinberg
Beyond
Phu Quoc
The south Vietnamese coast is home to more islands
than just Phu Quoc, Ed Weinberg discovers,
and a whole lot of water
ne of the pleasures of working

for a magazine is a flexible
definition of holidays. When my
friend Selena proposed a quick
weekend trip to Phu Quoc, my mental
wheels started turning. Diligently, I asked
the boss if any resorts need checking
out. Nick, ever the quick thinker, told
me there was, as well as a guesthouse
on an untouristed island archipelago not
far from my destination. And that, dear
reader, is how one gets roped into 12
hours of boat travel in a four day span,
surrounded by the crashing 10-foot waves
that guard such treasures.
The island extension to our trip is called
Nam Du, and no-ones ever heard of it.
Theres good reason for that as it turns out
its not just a quick side trip from Phu Quoc,
but three hours from Rach Gia over open
seas, which would toss our 200-passenger

ferry boat from swell to towering, whiteflecked swell.
Its a logistical adventure as well, ably
handled by Hanh and Hung at Terraverde
Travel Vietnam, who devise an itinerary that
will take us through Phu Quoc, Rach Gia,
Nam Du and Rach Gia again over the four
nights of our trip. As night turns into endless
day, well appreciate how their meticulous
planning allows for lighthouse sunrises
and beach bonfires. As Vu Minh Anh, the
founder of Terraverde, says, Such a tour
lives from spontaneity. Time and again, we
find ourselves in the right place, at the right
time.
A Phu Quoc Fling
We keep with the original plan, even though

it will only be for 24 hours. And those 24
hours mark my first in Phu Quoc, probably

Vietnams most developed island escape
and a good bar to set against the survivalist
rigours of our stint in Nam Du.
On our way to Mango Bay Resort, we
encounter the first signs that Phu Quoc isnt
as developed as our simplistic dichotomising
led us to believe. A rough dirt road springs
off the main two-lane road, cut into trenches
by years of rain and traffic. Its felt all
the more violently in the jump seat of a
15-passenger van. This same road will feel
all the more ragged under the wheels of
our rented Honda Hayate hours later, led
in loops by the machinations of a dying
smartphone.
Its noon when we first arrive at Mango
Bay, a well-established eco resort on the
less-developed northwest end of Phu
Quoc. An idyllic beach getaway started by
some longtime Saigon expats, it wraps its

passions into the experience. On the way
to reception, we pass an indigenous flower
patch, a medicinal plants garden and a
butterfly reliquary. In this last, we see the
pinned remains of a butterfly species native
to Phu Quoc, classified on a research trip
commissioned by Wildlife At Risk, one of
Mango Bays guiding missions.
We eat a late breakfast, seafood on pizza,
seafood in a tortilla shell enclosed salad. As
we wait for our room to be ready, we look
out to the sea, as many of our fellow diners
are doing. It feels like we could do this all
day, and indeed, thats not an uncommon
activity here.
Tourists that stay three days here,
theyve done two weeks of Vietnam, theyre
absolutely exhausted, says Mango Bay GM
Ronan Lebihan. They want the beach, the
massage and the food.

But we only have 24 hours in Phu Quoc,
and Selena wants to show me the sights. We
rent out the Hayate automatic that will later
skitter from unpaved groove to unpaved
groove (He lives in Saigon, Selena says,
when the guy renting it VND200,000 for
the day tells us to take it slow). Theres
this mythical Vung Bau Beach in Selenas
mind, a nearly uninhabited half-moon of
coastline, site of a years-past trip. We curl up
the coast, in the general direction.
The Night Market
Sunset has come and gone, along with the

children snacking on watermelon in the
middle of the road, the rice wine toasts
in exchange for pictures, the incongruous
ships being built in wooded clearings. We
follow the pavement back down the pristine
coast, ending in the dirt road disconnect that
keeps the town proper from encroaching on
paradise beach.
Following an out-of-touch GPS path,
we hop sidewalk bumps next to broken
roads and swerve through blind alleys
to the famous night market, one of Phu
Quocs principal attractions. Here the resort
crowd and the locals looking for a night
out converge over plates of the freshest,
most genetically well-endowed catch the
salt water has to offer. Tourists thrill to the
plucking of spiny lobsters from murky fish
tanks, their ancient antennae slowly twirling
in the crisp night air. Theres a tangible
electricity about the place, even when
the electricity goes out for a few moonlit
minutes.
We prowl the promenade for a good 20
minutes, until an excited waitress lays a
karate chop in our path. Shes Phuong
who Selena met last trip. Of course were
eating at her stall, the excellent Quan Mien
Trung (23 Cho Den Dinh Cau, Duong Dang).
We order oversized snails, mussels, squid
and sea urchins. I had no idea sea urchins
were edible, but they are, and medium
delicious at that.
A couple of stalls further down is the
delightful Banana Pancake, with a googlyeyed banana mascot painted on the side of
the cart saying, Please dont peel me I
want to live. I request him peeled, scalded
with Nutella and entombed in a fluffy crepe
batter. I poke him with little toothpicks, as
Selena buys enough tourist tat to never have
to go to Ben Thanh Market again.
Great Barrier Reef

The Coral Sea, Australia
With over 2,900 individual reefs and 900
islands stretching on for 2,600km, the Great
Barrier Reef is the worlds largest coral reef
system, as well as its biggest structure made
The Fulcrum
The next day we take the high-powered

Superdong ferry out of Phu Quoc, cruising
along to the subtitled, halfway-interrupted
chop-socky of Shanghai Noon. Three
hours later and in were in Rach Gia, the
overlooked provincial capital of 220,000
where we are to spend two of our next three
nights.
Arriving at the workmanlike Hong
Nhung Hotel (78 Ton Duc Thang, Vinh
Lac), we watch the sunset fall over a seaside
restaurant preparing for a party. Hanoian
love songs issue from their PA: This is
miracle love, dont forget it / Before, I was
very much in love
The sun hangs lazily over a still sea,
moving as a sheet towards the seawall,
ripple patterns unchanging like an optical
by living organisms. And there are even

more living organisms hanging out on the
reefs islands, with a tourism industry that
brings in over AU$3 billion (VND57 trillion)
a year. Unfortunately, that amount doesnt
outweigh the potential profits of a recently
illusion. A woman carts pinwheels and

balloons down the street, and everything
is slow.
The reverie lasts until someone turns on
the techno.
Adventure!
By mid-morning on the third day, were

again in the clutches of a bucolic, colicy
sea, 10-foot waves erupting in our ferrys
wake. Its a full day before I really gain an
appreciation of good captaining, but Im
already well aware of its importance.
And with a thud we arrive on the main,
5,000-inhabitant island of Nam Dus
21-island archipelago. We pack out onto
a crowded dock leading to a dusty path,
reaching into the mountainous recesses of
the island.
green-lit coal port expansion just 50km from

the heart of the reef, which will involve
dredging 3 million cubic metres of seabed
the spoils to be dumped in the reefs World
Heritage Area.
me about all the stories of whales saving

humans, how theyre viewed as protective
and beneficent gods. When Im surprised by
this idea, she says, But westerners believe
the same thing, what about Free Willy?
The Slow Life
We take to the sea, on Vus 20-passenger

speedboat. We fish for an hour before
sunset, before dropping anchor on a threehomestead beach.
We make the first bonfire Ive seen in
Vietnam. Its all palm fronds, and combusts
quickly. Next to it our 11-fish catch is
prepared, to be placed on our plastic
tables next to crabs, huge sea prawns and
a delicacy of grasshopper and lemongrass.
We eat alongside some men visiting from
the other islands. Soon a guitars picked
up and beers are dispensed, and our voices
echo into the night.
Its complete blackness except for the
celestial lights and the lit orbs of squidhunting vessels, bobbing alongside 20
other ships overnighting in the cove we
face out on. And I realise that this is what
undeveloped means not the white
sand fantasy of resort brochures. In this
part of the world it means that people are
struggling to get by.
Sunrise
Were greeted by a local guide, Vu, who

escorts us to a waiting room teacups
down near the islands security office
and checks us in. We dont flip the
teacups. Soon he retrieves us and we follow
him up the alley-like main street, past
the islands under-construction second
guesthouse (the first with air-con!), to his
aunts house where lunch awaits.
Island Superstitions
At Vus aunts house, we eat fresh fish and

canh cua (sour soup, a fish-filled staple of
our trip) on the living room floor. After we
devour the top half of the fish, Hung notices
my greedy glances at the fishs underside.
He deftly removes the fishs spine to reveal
its bottom half. We never flip the fish, he
Con Dao Islands

Vietnam
The Con Dao Islands, situated just off
the southern coast of Vietnam, owe their
fame not to sunny beaches, palm trees and
hammocks, but a rather grisly past. During
says, its too much like a boat flipping.

I soon learn other superstitions, like:
Never cut off a fishs mouth, or else
the others may never bite again.
You can tell river boats from sea boats
by the presence of painted eyes. Vietnamese
people are somehow more scared of the
creepy crawlies in rivers than those in the
sea, and the eyes make their wearers more
forbidding than any 10-metre crocodile.
Not really a superstition, but many
coastal peoples venerate whales, and
enshrine their remains. On our trip to one
of the two other islands we would visit, we
see one of these temples, with the whales
jawbones impressively mounted and
painted silver.
I ask how this evolved, and Selena tells
the French colonial era, the largest island

in the Con Dao archipelago was home to
Con Dao prison, a horrific penal facility that
housed Vietnamese nationalists. During
the American War, it was turned over to
southern forces and used for the same
We wake up in time for sunrise,

breaknecking over the furrowed mud track
of the soon-to-be island ring road. About
20 minutes in, a steam shovel operator
sleeps behind the wheel. We wake him, and
slowly, cathartically, he breathes diesel into
the engine and treads backwards, opening a
narrow path.
10 minutes later and were at the
lighthouse. Only two of us are allowed in at
a time, and we race up four flights of stairs,
in time to see the cloud cover brightening a
little. But underneath is what weve really
come to see the island spreading its
green toes, its trees swaying in the wind.
And even further off, tiny ships bob on
seas so violent that our departure later on is
questioned. No-one stirs until the seas have
found their answer.
For more information on Mango Bay Resort
in Phu Quoc, check mangobayphuquoc.com
To find out more about the individually
tailored, off-beat trips that Terraverde offers,
check terraverdetravel.com
purpose. Now, reports of haunting and

supernatural activity plague Con Son Island
the site of the prison and have even
been featured on paranormal TV shows like
National Geographic Asias I Wouldnt Go In
There.
The Other Side

of Halong Bay
Van Don Island might be near the UNESCO
World Heritage Site, but limestone karst is the only
thing they have in common. Words by Elisabeth Rosen.
Photos by Nick Ross
e met Ba Tam at a village

market between Halong
City and Van Don Island.
Wed stopped to buy a
bushel of bananas and found her by the
side of the road, finishing her morning
shopping. When we offered her a ride,
she immediately accepted. Still nimble
at 80-something, she hopped into the
backseat weighed down with plastic bags
full of eggs and cabbage.
Foreigners are so big and beautiful, she
cooed in Vietnamese, the crooked grin never
leaving her face. Where are you from?
Most visitors see Van Don only as a
jumping-off point for smaller islands like
Co To and Quan Lan. But the large island,
connected to the mainland by a bridge
built in 2005, has its own rustic charm.
After dropping Ba Tam off at her house, we
headed to Cai Rong Port, where fishermen
were hauling in crateloads of black
anchovies (ca com). So fresh their eyes still
glisten, large quantities of the silver fish are
trucked to nearby factories and fermented
into Vietnams signature condiment, nuoc

mam.
We followed the anchovies to Cai Rong
Fish Sauce Factory or more accurately,
we followed the xe om driver who offered to
show us the way for VND20,000. Bumping
down dirt roads, we skirted dangling power
lines and the odd napping buffalo to arrive
at a clearing saturated with the rich smell
of nuoc mam. The aroma was less fishy than
ripe and sweet, like Roquefort at its delicate
peak.
While its intriguing to see how fish
sauce is produced, this isnt exactly a tourist
destination. Pouring liquid into the vats
that stretched across the clearing in long
rows, workers in conical straw hats eyed us
curiously. Maybe theyre French? one said
to her companion.
Quyen, who took over the factory from
the government in 2000, guided us down
the neat rows. Clad in suit trousers and
sneakers, he seemed dressed half for a
business meeting and half for the reality
of manufacturing fermented fish. As he
Santorini
known for its beauty, seen in the Cyclades

islands-style, low-lying cubical houses
made of local stone and whitewashed, then
painted with sea-blue trim. It routinely wins
best island roundups for its lava-coloured
red, white and black sand beaches, and its
The Aegean Sea, Greece

About 200km south of the Greek mainland,
Santorini was a centre of ancient Minoan
civilisation until the volcano that formed
the island destroyed 500sqkm of it. Its
explained the lengthy process of making

nuoc mam, he gestured with an enormous
square ring.
When it comes to fish sauce, theres no
such thing as instant gratification. Anchovies
caught in the bay spend a year soaking up
salt in a giant cement basin; the resulting
brew then rests in ceramic vats for a second
year. The company churns out 30,000 litres
per month, enough to accompany boatloads
of bun cha, com tam and banh cuon.
We picked up a bottle as a souvenir on our
way out. When you go home, your clothes
will smell terrible, the woman who sold it
to us remarked cheerily.
The Bay
Poking around behind the factory, we

found a stretch of beach, deserted except
for a sole fishing boat harvesting ca com.
If you dont mind the marine smell, its an
ideal spot to get a panoramic look at Bai Tu
Long Bay and its signature limestone karst
cliffs without a single whitewashed tourist
junk to mar the view.
award-winning viticulture. But another

source of notoriety has cropped up in the
past decades. In its pre-eruption shape
and ancient artistic traditions, it strongly
resembles Platos description of the lost city
of Atlantis.
If you dont mind the marine smell, its an ideal

spot to get a panoramic look at Bai Tu Long Bay
and its signature limestone karst cliffs without a
single whitewashed tourist junk to mar the view
We drove along the bay to look for a resort
where one of us had eaten lunch a few years
before, but alas, it was now closed. Further
on we found Thien Vien Truc Lam, a temple
perched on the hillside overlooking the water.
Built in 2007 to replace an older pagoda, it
was deserted. The only person around was
devotee Thuong Hanh, wearing a traditional
hair kerchief and loose brown garments.
Sweeping a straw mat, she said shed
moved here from Vung Tau, where she grew
up in a devout Buddhist family. I expressed
incredulity. Surely the southern beaches were
better?
Hanh smiled. This is such a beautiful
place. I stayed here because I felt drawn to it.
It was time to set foot on the water. Nha
Hang Lam Chieu, a restaurant that specialises

in local seafood, floats several metres out
from shore. Stepping onto a few planks held
together by nails, we were ferried over to the
restaurant, where plastic basins greeted us
with the mornings catch.
The seafood here is so fresh it requires little
cooking, sometimes none at all. Raw shrimp
came painstakingly sliced into sashimi-thin
strips, which we dipped in lemon sauce and
wasabi, before rolling in rice paper along with
carrot, pineapple and ginger. Whole squid
was cooked briefly with lemongrass and
birds eye chillis; smaller pieces were added
to a heaping pile of fried rice. One piece of
advice: if you get the stir-fried octopus, ask
for the innards to be removed.
le Sainte-Hlne
1967 Worlds Fair by that champion of the

icosahedron, R. Buckminster Fuller. This is the
most iconic of Montrals tributes to a futurepast, with a few more corrugated sculptures
sprinkled among the former fairgrounds. But
Montral has struck a curious compromise
Saint Lawrence River, Montral, Canada

Venturing out of Montrals downtown to
the city islands nowadays most famous
for their casino and theme park youll see
a proud, weird geodesic dome, built for the
Information
Van Don Island is a fivehour drive from Hanoi.
The bridge to the island
is located at Cua Ong,
35km further on from
Halong Bay.
A number of ferry
operators run boats from
Cai Rong Port on Van
Don to Quan Lan and
Co To islands. They
leave twice a day, from
7am to 9am and after
lunch from 1pm to 3pm.
If you wish to go to Co
To or Quan Lan for the
day, you will need to get
the early ferry. Otherwise
you will have to stay
overnight.
with time on the rest of le Sainte-Hlne,

still drawing in the crowds to its Six Flagsadopted theme park, snowboarding park,
annual fireworks competition and even
the original Piknic Elektronic all while
maintaining a 1970s-type vibe.
Fantasy
Island
Games creator Curtis Norris spent six months isolated on an island
in northern Vietnam. But why? Derek Milroy finds out.
Photos by Nguyen Long Hung
any people fantasise about life

on a deserted island. The palm
trees swaying in the wind,
the sand, the deep blue sea,
adventure, a simple life all their own.
For most of us, its just that a dream.
How many actually have the balls to go for
it?
Curtis Norris did. He said he wanted to
get away and he meant it. The American
didnt want to go to any old beach, though,
he wanted complete isolation. He found it in
Bai Tu Long, on the far side of Halong Bay.
Going Native
After 13 years in Vietnam he felt flat. He

knew the fault didnt lie with the location;
it lay at his own Ho Chi Minh City door. He
had lost his passion, not just for his adopted
home but also for his job. Some in his
situation would have contented themselves
with a little tweak, but Curtis knew if he was
going to make a change, he had to go all the
way.
Going Robinson Crusoe on a desert
island is, I think, one of those archetypal
fantasies we carry around with us from
boyhood, he says. I had toyed with the
idea but didnt act on the impulse, falling
instead into the easy routine of city life.
The catalyst came last year, when I had just
finished a long and often difficult project
Art of Darkness for the iPad and I
was feeling both creatively and spiritually
flat. I had to shake things up, reignite my
spirit and rekindle my love affair with the
country.
Curtis lacked the means and connections
to embrace this fantasy but a cold call by
email helped with that.
The first person I floated the idea by was
the chairman of VTC Online, a man I had
never met or emailed before, Curtis tells. I
sent him a brief proposal to run a year-long
creative experiment on an island to see what
happened. The focus, naturally, would be on
game design.
I received a reply the same day, a brief,
two-line message Love the idea, and we

have an island! Two weeks later, the project
was underway.
Curtis soon headed north to Halong Bay,
setting out at midnight during a full moon
for the island that would be his home for
months to come. Everywhere there was a
profound stillness on the water, in the
misty sky and from the islands themselves,
he recalls. I felt very small and vulnerable
as we wound our way through the watery
maze, the islands towering over us like
not-quite-sleeping giants. It was humbling,
unnerving, and completely captivating.
He was headed to a privately-owned
island, with a crew stationed there in case
He knew, coming to
the north, he would be
facing four seasons
but on the island there
were a hundred
of emergencies. The island was part of an
island chain, connected by a small dyke road
enclosing a 10km lagoon.
At one end, he says, on a small
picturesque rock of an island, there was a
two-room structure that housed a variable
crew of men, numbering from two to 10 at
any given time, who maintained the dyke
gates, and the 36km of road connecting the
islands. This bunkhouse had solar power
for lighting at night and water piped into a
cistern from a creek on another island. Food
was cooked over a fire in an adjoining hut.
Chickens, geese, pigs and about 20 dogs
completed the population. Despite its rustic
quality, Curtis would refer to his visits to
the camp as going to the city. The crew
thought he was crazy but they welcomed
him with great generosity and care. For
his part, he feels that hes never met such
capable people in his life. They seemed to
know everything about every plant and

animal on land and sea.
Me and Poor Crusoe
So was he really alone with the crew so close

by? His island, where he and the crew built
his cabin, was 5km long and 2km wide. It
was located 2km from where the crew was
based. He was the only person living on
his island, so technically, it was deserted
although there were plenty of poisonous
green tree vipers to keep him company. That
chilling aspect stopped him from building a
home in their territory.
Building a shelter in the jungle would
have been inadvisable for many reasons,
Curtis explains. Level spots were nonexistent on the steep slopes, the jungle
was incredibly dense, and there was the
ever-present threat of poisonous snakes.
Fortunately, there was an old quarry, left
over from the road construction.
So the old quarry became home. It was
an intriguing combination of nature and
architecture, he says, with high cliffs and
tiered levels, giving it the aura of castle
ruins. I referred to it as The Sanctuary. For
my cabin, I chose a spot about four storeys
above the shore, with a commanding view of
the surrounding sea and other islands.
Moonlight and breezes entered through
the gaps of the wall planks, and there was
always a new guest from the jungle a
frog, a mouse, a beetle. Even the trees that
made up the frame of the cabin continued to
sprout new leaves and branches inside the
house. I was part of nature for the first time.
The Game and Coconuts is Plentiful
On the island, Curtis never had a typical

day. The island was constantly changing,
and the games creator was changing with it.
He knew, coming to the north, he would be
facing four seasons but on the island there
were a hundred.
Every day he would walk around and
spot some species of plant or animal either
blossoming into its season or fading from it,
changing the face of each day.

Even though I might hike the same trail
a hundred times, it was always a different
experience, he says. The sky and sea,
too, were constantly changing. This was
all very subtle at first, but with constant
exposure, the differences day to day became
dramatically obvious. The amount of life and
change there took my breath away.
He still had to have a daily routine. Hed
wake up at dawn, hurriedly putting on some
warm clothes especially during winter,
where temperatures often fell below 10oC.
He would grab his table and chair out to
the edge of one of the cliffs of the quarry to
enjoy the view. He had all the office tools he
needed. A cup of hot coffee and his laptop
were all that was required to get some
writing done for a few hours, until it got too
hot.
His daily life was focused on fire and
water. To get fresh water, Curtis had to take
two 10-litre jugs to a creek half a mile away.
He had to filter the creek water through
layers of cloth and once boiled on a fire
Gorgona Island
Colombia
At Colombias Gorgona Island National
Park youll find a curious counterpoint to
Con Dao and Alcatraz a brutal former
penal colony, built in the model of Nazi
made of dead wood, which he spent an hour

per day collecting and chopping it was
good to go. It had a fresh, sweet taste, he
says.
18 hours a day I was outdoors, in the
elements, he says. What you come to
realise is that these elements are your element.
I was reminded that I am an animal in, not
separate from, nature a thinking, creative,
spiritual animal in an amazing country, on a
miraculous planet.
Lord of Flies with Cocktails in His

Conch Shell
A man alone normally has no choice but to

embrace his thoughts, and in this complete
isolation Curtis did so, over the course
of eight to 12 miles most days. He would
walk along the road and paths that skirted
the connected chain of islands, usually
accompanied by a group of dogs who
inspired him with their endless energy and
curiosity.
To head inland he had to blaze his own
trails through the jungle with a machete. It
concentration camps, now covered in dense

vegetation. For the same reasons that it
was once an inescapable place of exile it
is now a tourist magnet, and a limited 80
people at a time can avoid the three species
of venomous snake native to the island. In
was slow, arduous work, with many hazards

such as razor sharp grasses, shark-toothed
plants and endless vines to trip him up.
He had to be patient and cautious before he
finally got the hang of it, but was rewarded
with many views and discoveries that could
not be experienced from the shore.
Whenever I felt exceptionally reckless I
would do some hair-raising rock climbing in
order to go swim in a secret tidal lake, he
adds. That was probably the most foolish
thing I did, but also the most rewarding.
In the hot weather he mainly exercised by
swimming and fishing in the bay. He would
often visit the crew and try to give them a
helping hand. If rich men from the mainland
came to fish, there would be a feast and
Curtis would make friends.
He never had to want for food. His cabin
was supplied with cowboy cuisine
plenty of beans, coffee, and tobacco. He
also ate with the crew at the base, feasting
on free-range chickens, ducks, geese, pigs
and seafood such as shrimp, crabs, oysters
and mussels.
addition, its got coral reefs and passing

humpback whales offshore, and tropical
jungle filled with capuchins, sloths, lizards
and honeycreepers.
Since returning to the city, I live more simply and with more
contentment. I view the city not as madness, but as the same
burgeoning of life that I left on the island
Man we ate like kings, he says. Apart

from the most expensive fish of every
description, all fresh and free, there were
the more exotic dishes involving frogs,
songbirds, snakes and even squirrel, washed
down with hornet-infused rice wine. [It was
amazing] how these guys could turn out
five-star dishes over a campfire.
Dont Rescue Me, No No
There was no internet or 3G access, but

Curtis had an intermittent cell phone signal,
so if anything happened to him he could
message for help.
He regularly texted friends to inform
Lamu
Kenya
The oldest continuously inhabited town
in Kenya, the cultural crossroads of Lamu
Island became home to Portugesee, Turks,
Omani, Germans and British after being
them of some of the magical things that

were happening to him. However, with no
other technological distractions he says he
was constantly aware of his own thoughts.
My mind started to fold back on itself,
creating new and interesting wrinkles. Its
amazing to realise how passive our minds
can become under constant external input.
Take that away and the mind becomes the
only actor which is uncomfortable at first,
but it gradually evolves to a higher level of
creativity.
His adventure was cut short, though,
when VTC Onlines cutbacks resulted in
Curtiss project becoming a casualty. It was
time to head back to the city, in many ways

a different man.
The city he now sees is different as well,
transformed by his changed perspective.
I was looking forward to another six
months, he says, but I was excited to
return to my friends in Saigon and re-enter
society with the new energy and outlook
I had gained on the island. I felt I was
returning to blaze new trails rather than fall
back into old ruts.
Since returning to the city, I live more
simply and with more contentment. I view
the city not as madness, but as the same
burgeoning of life that I left on the island.
founded by Swahili in 1370. That mix of

traditions shows up in the rich, crosscontinental architecture and infrastructure
that earned Lamu Old Town a ranking as
a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001.
And though its tourism emphasis is on
the past, its Indian Ocean access continues

to make it strategically valuable. In fact,
China has undertaken feasibility studies
on transforming Lamu into the largest port
in East Africa, part of its String of Pearls
strategic influence strategy.
Information
G etting T here
The most direct route from Central Saigon is

to follow Nguyen Tat Thanh 17km through
District 4, District 7 and Nha Be until you get to
Binh Khanh ferry. On the other side is Can Gio
and the highway crossing the islands. All the
places worth visiting here are well signposted.
Alternatively, take Nguyen Huu Tho out of
Phu My Hung towards Nha Be. The road turns
into Nguyen Van Tao. Just before the river at
the end, turn left opposite the small bus station
in Hiep Phuoc and follow the dirt track 5km to
Ben Do ferry. The ferry takes you to Can Gio.
V am S at E cological N ature R eserve
Xa Ly Nhon, Can Gio, Tel: (08) 3889 4008

vamsat.com.vn
Take the turning at Nga Ba Ly Nhon off the
main highway. Vam Sat is 21km. Boat rides
cost anything from VND75,000 to VND375,000
per person depending on how many people
share a boat. A speedboat or motorised
canoe is slightly more expensive.
P huong N am P earl R esort
Dong Hoa Beach, Long Hoa, Can Gio, Tel:

(08) 3874 3404
phuongnampearlresort.com
The only privately owned resort of any note
on the islands. Has a saltwater lake, a pier
and eating, drinking and sports facilities. Runs
tours into the mangroves. The not-so-wellappointed Tieng Song Resort just next door is
a great spot to relax over a beer or a meal.
C an T hanh T own
Originally settled by Chinese and home to a

temple dating from 1805, the beach area, the
remains of a whale worshipped as a deity,
the market and the Cao Dai Temple are the
biggest attractions here. Ask nicely and the
staff at the temple will show you around. The
beach promenade area is next to the wellsignposted Can Gio Resort, a governmentrun property that was the first upscale resort in
Can Gio.
M onkey I sland
Located 1km before Nga Ba Long Hoa and

60km from Ho Chi Minh City, follow the signs
for Can Cu Rung Sac. The main reason
to go here is to take a canoe ride around
the reconstructed guerilla base, to see
the macaques and feed the crocodiles. A
motorised canoe costs VND600,000.
The Islands in
the Swamps
Teeming with wildlife and just 20km from downtown Ho Chi Minh City, the islands
that make up the mangrove swamps of Can Gio are home to a people who have
survived against the odds. Words and photos by Nick Ross
came here 35 years ago, says the

man, his face taut yet lined with
the harshness of the elements. It
was just after the Liberation. There
were no roads and we had to get here by
boat from Long An. There were so many
mosquitoes and we often got sick. Life was
really difficult.
His five-year-old granddaughter is staring
at me, riveted by the whiteness of my skin.
Receiving such attention is a rare occurrence
in the Ho Chi Minh City of today. Despite
geographically lying inside the confines of
Vietnams largest metropolis, this is far from
being in the city. Here were in the swamps,
on islands in the swamps. This is Can Gio,
the area southeast of Saigon known in the
war as The Forest of Thieves.
Kho qua, continues the man, shaking
his head in memory. We really suffered.
But this road was built three years ago. The
bridge over there, ten. Before that it was only
a dirt track. Until recently we had to live off
the jungle and fish on the rivers. Now we
can farm.
His memories are overpowering. But
they are now only memories life is
infinitely better. The struggle to survive
in the harshness of the jungle is one his
granddaughter will never know.
The Beach
On the other side of the islands, its late

morning. Close to the main town Can
Thanh, I drive down the paved promenade.
Opposite sits the Vung Tau peninsula, but
the tide is out and the mud-brown sand
stretches for miles. This is Can Gios closest
thing to a beach.
A decade ago this area was developed,
with an eye to attracting beachside resorts
and restaurants. It never happened
Ho Chi Minh Citys beachgoers and sun
worshippers decided to travel elsewhere.
Now the promenade is unkempt, grass
and weeds grow through the uneven
tiles, and fishermans huts line the rickety
thoroughfare.
Here men lie in hammocks or stretch out
over motorbikes, while women sift through
plastic baskets full of shellfish. Money is
exchanged as the shellfish gatherers emerge
from the beach with their catch. The sun is
harsh, the glare of the water reflecting on
the sand even harsher. Collecting mollusks
to feed the streetside obsession with cockles
Antillia
15th Century Maps
Everyone knows Atlantis, but how many
are familiar with Antillia? Originating in an
old Iberian legend, Antillia was reputed to
have first been populated by seven Christian
and mussels in Ho Chi Minh City is a tough

trade. When the tide comes in, it can be
dangerous, too. But its a living.
Two gatherers I spy have rid themselves
of their catch on the beach itself the
mollusks weighed and money exchanged
before they leave the sand. They walk onto
the promenade, get on their motorbike and
drive to wherever they live. Their lives may
require them to bear the severity of sun, sea
and sand, but they have a motorbike. Five
years ago it would have been a bicycle. A
decade past and they would have walked.
The Ferry
The change in fortunes of the inhabitants

of Can Gio is echoed by the ticket seller on
the ferry from Ben Do in Nha Be. Thanks to
both UNESCO and national park protection,
75 percent of the islands are off limits to
developers. While it allows for wildlife to
flourish 52 mangrove species, over 200
animal species and 40 bird species thrive in
the 70,000-hectare wetland biosphere reserve
it means many inhabitants have to look
elsewhere for employment. In this case, the
industrial estates on the other side of the
river.
In the morning and late afternoons the
ferry gets very busy, says the ticket seller.
Lots of people in Can Gio work in Long
Hau Industrial Estate. They do all sorts of
jobs, but mostly work in the factories. On
Can Gio theres only seafood farming, swift
nest farms, fishing or collecting shellfish.
On my way to Ben Do Ive driven through
Long Hau. Its vast and is graced with space.
Yet its only 20 minutes drive from Saigon
South.
Were better connected to Saigon now,
he continues. A few years ago it was all dirt
tracks and boats. Now we can survive.
Nature
The wetland reserves are nature unchained,

just dont make the mistake of thinking all
you can see, touch or smell is to be found
at Monkey Island in Can Cu Rung Sac,
the Forest of Thieves Guerilla Base. Its not.
While its worth a visit to see the aggressive
macaques, feed the crocodiles or take a
motorboat through the rivers and canals
that slither through the reconstructed base
in the mangroves, the lesser-known Vam
Sat is the superior option.
Like in Monkey Island, the headquarters
bishops fleeing the 8th century Muslim

conquest of Hispania. But in 1424, it made its
first notable appearance on a nautical chart,
as a large rectangular island. From then on,
it continued to appear on most seafarers
maps during the age of exploration, until
area at Vam Sat is also run down, but

theres a different atmosphere. The woman
selling park entrance tickets is both helpful
and friendly. She doubles up as a waitress
in the deserted restaurant and tells me
what I can do. Following her advice I climb
the tower to get sweeping views over
the swamps. She helps me feed a gibbon,
who swings between his island home and
a bamboo climbing frame erected in the
middle of a lake. When I decide to hire a
standard fishing boat rather than a ca no,
or speedboat, she argues back against the
remonstrations of one of her colleagues.
Its lunchtime and he wants to sleep. Go
by speedboat and he can return quickly.
Take the fishing boat and he will miss his
siesta. I decide to take the fishing boat. Its
traditional, slower and a better ride.
The trip by boat takes me to the bat
swamp, Dam Doi. I descend, decide not
to go crab fishing and instead take a canoe
into the swamp. It is populated by stalks
and heron, delicately paddling across
the surface of a lake. In the distance the
woman rowing me points out the fruit
bats. They are hanging in the trees beyond,
but sometimes they leave their upsidedown perches and fly between branches.
I spy them through binoculars. They are
enormous.
Some of them have wingspans as long
as one metre, says the woman. But at this
time of day they like to rest. The best time
to see them is at sunset when they fly off in
search of food.
When I return to Vam Sat headquarters
I realise what Ive missed. There is a bird
sanctuary here, but its mainly populated
between April and October. There is also
crocodile feeding, an experience described
by a friend as sitting in the middle of
a swamp on polystyrene boards and
watching the animals fight each other and
thrash about for morsels of food.
Can Gio is often described as the lungs
of Ho Chi Minh City, an antidote to
the pollution and concrete of this everexpanding metropolis. It also acts as a
buffer against typhoons and rising sea
levels. Go here and the air is different. Its
not fresh jungle humidity takes care of
that but its pollution-free. Here you can
breathe. And, in this current compromise
between development and natural
disposition, so can its residents.
1492, when the north Atlantic began to be

routinely sailed. Nevertheless, the presence
of such a landmass on pre-Columbian
nautical charts has continued to fuel theories
of trans-Atlantic passage before Columbus.
Pacific Trash Vortex

North Pacific Gyre
In the wide stretch of ocean between East
Asia and North America, there lies a mass
of plastics, chemical sludge and other debris
estimated at somewhere between twice
the size of Vietnam and twice the size of

China. Its thought to have been gathered
in the North Pacific Gyre by ocean currents,
drawing waste from the coasts of major
waste producers North America and Japan
into it via a whirlpool effect. Not only is it
a crisis on the horizon of the likes of global

warming, but its already affecting at least
267 species worldwide some of whom live
in the gyre, and feed plastic debris to their
young.
Life On An
Urban Island
Photo by Francis Xavier
Growing numbers of urban residents are moving to the islands not the islands
on the coast but those in the city. Derek Milroy and Hoa Le visit four urban islands.
Photos by Francis Xavier and Francis Roux
Dai Phuoc Lotus Island

Nhon Trach, Dong Nai
You can sit on the boat, read the paper

or listen to your iPad, have a coffee, relax
and get into the city. Vina Dai Phuoc Corp
general director Mike Gammel describes the
30-minute speedboat ride from the island
into the city.
Having experienced it ourselves it is not
a bad way to commute. This urban island
hideaway, although far from completion,
is not as far away as you think. Despite
being located in Dong Nai Province and an
80-minute car ride, it is only 16km as the
crow flies from Ho Chi Minh Citys District 1.
Yet as Gammel admits himself, few
people know about Dai Phuoc. However,
the Australian is confident that the
VinaCapital-owned 446 hectare island will

have 100 familes residing there over the next
two to three years.
We sell it is as clean, green, resort-style
living in the countryside but close to the
city and you can be back from work in 30
minutes, he says. If you live in District 10
or 11 or in Go Vap, it takes 30 to 40 minutes
on your motorbike and its risky.
The property is close to completing 10
percent of its long-term project. In the future
when it is finally finished we could be
looking at Phu My Hung: The Sequel. In this is
case it will be Phu My Hung: The Island.
As Gammel explains, most potential
buyers ask him how they get there, and
what they can do when they get there? With

the first question answered, he can point
to the two central parks with play area for
kids, a gym, swimming pools, restaurants,
tennis courts, a coffee shop doubling up as a
convenience store and even a small football
pitch. There is more to come.
The landscaping has only been planted
for 12 months and has already netted a
prestigious award, he tells us. There is a
fully-stocked fish pond, natural flora and
fauna and a lot of bird life.
As for the future he can only speculate.
But so far business has been good 183 out
of 200 completed homes have already been
sold.
Photo by Francis Roux
Ngu Xa Island
Truc Bach, Hanoi

Bustling with pho cuon vendors with waves
of visitors coming nightly for street food,
Ngu Xa has etched its place in the culinary
culture of the capital. Yet few people realise
that this island in Truc Bach Lake now
separated from the mainland by two short
bridges was once the home of the bronzecasting workers of Ngu Xa Village.
Hidden in a narrow alley on Nam Trang,
Mrs. Dans showroom is only 15sqm, but
it displays countless carefully sculptured
bronze statues including a Ho Chi Minh bust
and Buddha statues in various sizes. Now in
her 70s, she is among only two people who
still continue the traditional work passed
down by previous generations.
Before, the water was just a stones throw
from my house, she says, pointing towards
the concrete road. According to Dan, the soil
residue from the bronze casting was often
dumped in the lake, increasing the size of
the island.
Life on the island was peaceful, she
continues. There was only one way in

and no way out, so security was good. We
didnt need to lock the doors. It had the true
feeling of a traditional village with a temple,
a pagoda and villagers who all knew each
other well.
According to Dan, bronze casting in
the capital first started on Lo Duc in
Vietnamese the street name means casting
before some of the artisans moved to
Trang Tien to make coins Trang Tien
translates to coin-making street. Later,
some of the artisans relocated to this
island in Truc Bach Lake and started up
workshops. Those people were really
poor, she says. They were separated from
the rest [of the artisans] and travelled to the
mainland by boat.
In early 2000, the banks around the island
were reinforced and the road on Tran Vu was
extended and connected with Ngu Xa Island
by a new bridge. Land prices started to rise.
There was a rumour that Ngu Xa looks
like the tail of the dragon which shaped

West Lake, says Dan. So the price of land
here doubled or even tripled.
Nowadays, the majority of the residents in
Ngu Xa are the late arrivals and the wealthy.
Only about 20 percent of the residents are
descendants of the original villagers.
Another local resident, Chinh, claims that
she was the first person to open a pho cuon
stall.
In the beginning, pho cuon was sold to
serve the workers from the bronze casting
workshops as they wanted something cool
instead of hot soupy pho after work, she
says. Chinh used to sell the dish on the
streets, but in the 1980s she opened a pho
cuon eatery in her home. In recent times,
houses on Ngu Xa and Nguyen Khac Hieu
have been rented out to a new breed of pho
cuon vendors.
While the bronze casting workshops
no longer exist, income-wise, pho cuon has
become the islands dominating force.
Photos by Francis Xavier
Diamond Island
District 2, Ho Chi Minh City

To anyone who attended A dOSe of Escape last
year, Diamond Island should be familiar. Yet
the place has changed the improvements
since the summer festival are evident. Most
noticeably there are two large and six small
bamboo beer houses, housing 50 and 20
people respectively. The structures offer
outdoor recreation for both present and future
families who will reside in the residences.
Set on an eight-hectare island, there
are a total of 247 apartments here, 68 of
which are managed by serviced residence
operator, The Ascott Limited. The property
boasts childcare facilities, a playground, a
saltwater pool and two tennis courts as well
as much more. Residents will be able to join
a yacht club and will have the option of

renting a yacht. The property also offers a
five-minute speedboat ride to the city, with
taxis on hand to take you by road on the
12-minute journey.
International trader Nghia and his
family made their escape from the city five
months ago. They were among the first
residents to move in and understand that
facilities will improve once the city exodus
to the island occurs.
One of the main reasons I wanted to
move out of the city was because the whole
family has allergies, he explains. We are
very happy now to have much cleaner
air. Residents need more facilities like a
supermarket, schools and health clinics, but

that will take time.
Nghia takes advantage of the buildings
facilities and the green open spaces in the
nearby surroundings as his active family
make the best of the environment. They are
relishing urban island life.
We feel more comfortable living here in
this green place compared to the noisy city,
he continues. I think life here is easy and
safe. It is a great place to relax after work.
Normally after I come home from work my
family likes to go swimming or the gym. On
the weekend we cycle around the island. No
other place in the city can give you such pure
and fresh air like here.
Surtsey Island
fishing trawler that took the saying right

place, right time to heart the water
burst in an explosion of smoke and ash. The
volcano that had been erupting beneath
the oceans surface for days had finally
become visible, and suddenly, an island was
born. Beating the rough tides of the North

Atlantic that many believed would wash
the island away, after continued eruptions
through 1967, the island now remains as the
southernmost point of Iceland.
Iceland
Before Nov. 14, 1963, the coordinates of
Surtsey Island would only have brought you
to more vast, blue ocean. But on a fateful
night one witnessed by the crew of a lone
Photos by Francis Roux
Middle Warp
Red River, Hanoi

The screech of waves of motorbikes running
along the capitals oldest bridge Long
Bien Bridge suddenly disappears as you
step down the rusted staircase in its middle.
Leading to an island in the Red River, known
as Bai Giua Song Hong, or Middle Warp,
you are struck immediately by ever-green
fields of banana trees and plots after plots of
corn and vegetables.
According to Dung, who is doing the
cultivation on a plot of cabbage, the island
was formerly the location of Trung Ha
Village. In 1971, a typhoon swept away all
the houses, so the residents were relocated to
the mainland. The land is now only used for
farming and for reasons of safety, living here
is forbidden.
Keep walking along the dirt path skirting
the river, however, and you will find a
squatter community of 24 households, the
present residents of this island. They come

from many different parts of the country, but
share the same reason to live here they
cant afford to buy a home on the mainland
and are living on their one-room houseboats.
The name of the community, Xom Phao, or
Buoy Village, originated from the nature of
these homes.
The first arrival to Xom Phao was Nguyen
Van Duoc he is now the chief of this
community. He came here with his wife and
two children in 1989 and after a few years, a
community started to form.
Were all farmers and labourers and dont
do any harm to the society. So people let us
stay here and recognise us, he says.
Better-off families in this village
such as Duocs rent land on the island
to cultivate. Other families are either
hired to work on those farms or buy the
products, such as banana or corn, and sell

them on Long Bien Bridge or in Central
Hanoi. Many women also collect trash for
recycling, while some of the men work on
construction sites.
People here are like a big family and we
rely on each other to live, says 38-year-old
Hoa, who just had to sell her houseboat for
VND2 million to pay a hospital bill she
has got goiter. She received help from other
families to build a temporary place to stay
on the farm land of Mr. Duoc.
My husband and I will stay here until
we have enough money to build another
boat house, she says. While for most
people, living in a houseboat on Middle
Warp is a destiny they would wish to shy
away from, for Hoa its become a dream.
She would be able to live somewhere she
can truly call home.
Palm Islands
assume that it cant be far off. The Palm

Islands will be the largest artificial islands in
the world upon completion, adding nearly
520sqkm to the city of Dubai. Shaped like
an enormous palm tree no word yet if
there are any actual palm trees there the
island houses what appears to be the most

ostentatious collection of beachside villas
and luxury amenities. Construction is set to
take up to 15 years, and will consume 100
million cubic metres of rock and sand.
Dubai
Why travel to a faraway island when you
can make one yourself? Although we cant
be sure if that is exactly what the creators
of Dubais Palm Islands were thinking, we
The Islands
Within
The Island
Singapore is much more than just the vibrancy

and unerring pace of the Lion City. Hoa Le pays
visits to three of the 60 or so islands inside
the island state. Photos by Nick Ross
he ancient parable told by Lonely

Planet as an introduction to the
different neighbourhoods of
Singapore keeps popping in my
head when I make my visits to three of the
offshore islands surrounding Singapore.
The story goes that a group of blind men
try to guess what an animal is as they are
all touching different parts of an elephant.
Their answers are completely different,
depending on what part that they touch.
The man who touches the leg says the
elephant is like a pillar; the other touches
the tail, and says the animal is like a rope;
and so on.
The three islands I visit Pulau Ubin
in the northeast, Sentosa and Kusu in the
south all possess completely different
characteristics. Whether its a getaway for
nature lovers, the entertainment vibe of
Singapores answer to Disney Land, or the
spirit of visiting a shrine and a temple, put
together as a whole these three islands paint
a colourful picture of Singapore.
Pulau Ubin: The Land that Time Forgot

After a 10-minute ride by bumboat from
Changi Point Ferry Terminal, you arrive
at the pier of Pulau Ubin. Lacking the
gleaming steel and glass skyscrapers of
the rest of Singapore, the first image is of
an island abundant in trees, jungle and
bicycles. A range of bicycle rental shops
with hundreds of bikes for rent queue up
along the road that leads into the little

village. Here you are struck by the serenity,
fresh air and peace that this island has to
offer.
Once full of granite quarries Pulau
Ubin translates as Granite Island the
island boasted a population of several
thousand, most of them ethnically Chinese.
Working in the quarries or plying a trade
as fishermen, in 2003 the residents were
relocated to mainland Singapore. The plan
was to turn the island into a nature reserve.
Only about 40 families still live in the
island as they have their ancestral houses
here, says Naseem, our tour guide. And
most of them are men, she adds, explaining
that this is because their kids go to school or
work on mainland Singapore their wives
go along to take care of them.
I was born here. And so I live here, says
Mr. Lim, a resident on the island, when I
ask why he doesnt want to leave. He also
adds that his children are irritated by the
mosquitoes and the lack of entertainment, so
they choose to live and work in Singapore.
In the hundred-year-old traditional
kampong house that has been passed down
through many generations, Mr. Lim sits
with his mother, who is now in her 80s.
They are the only two people living in
this spacious property. Separated from the
jungle by the narrow road running past
their front gate, they say the noise of the city
scares them and they prefer the simple life.
Apart from the dense forest, hiking and

cycling trails, Pulau Ubin is also home to
many wild species of animal including
wild boars and migratory birds as well as
the nature rich Chek Jawa wetlands on the
southeastern tip of the island.
Originally razed for reclamation in 1992,
Chek Jawa is made up of six interdependent
ecosystems coastal hill forest, mangrove
forest, rocky shore, sandy shore and sand
bar, sea grass and coral rubble. At low tide
you can spot an abundance of creatures, rare
plants and birds living in each ecosystem.
Traversed by a 1.1 km boardwalk that runs
through the mangroves area and then along
the land between the intertidal zone, the
walkway provides the perfect stage to see
the natural biodiversity of the area at play.
Its not surprising that Pulau Ubin
has become a popular spot for camping
or group outdoor activities. Although
residents say they are not sure about the
future of this island, for now, the island
Sealand
Principality of Sealand sort of
While its perhaps a stretch to call it an
actual island it is, after all, entirely
concrete the residents of what used to be
the Maunsell Sea Fort 10km off the coast of
remains undeveloped and untouched by the

highrises of Singapore, making it a perfect
retreat for nature lovers and those seeking a
simple life.
Sentosa: The Disney Land

of Southeast Asia
Just spitting distance from mainland

Singapore and reached by road, cable car,
walkway or sky train, Sentosa is an island of
entertainment, a popular resort getaway and
home to a number of top-end residential
areas. Even on a Thursday when we made
the first of our two visits, it felt like the
majority of Singapores five-million-strong
population were present at the integrated
resort and entertainment complex, Resort
World, in the northern part of the island.
A young woman in her sari poses next to
Universal Studios iconic globe. Inside the
theme park, a family with two parents and
teenage kids are standing in line next to the
giant mummy statues, waiting for their turn
England insist, vehemently, that it is. The

islands occupants that rarely exceed 10 are
the associates and family of eccentric former
radio broadcaster Paddy Roy Bates, who
live in an area of less than 550sqm. To date,
the bizarre micronation has yet to convince
on the fantasy ride. The musical LightSeeker

in Resorts World Theatre wows the
audience with its circus-style acrobatics and
technologically amazing set. All contribute
to the colourful picture of Singapore that is
reflected on Sentosa.
Although most of the attractions in
Sentosa will cost you entrance to
Universal Studios is S$68 (VND1.156
million) for an adult when you plan a
treat after a hard-working week or want to
enjoy some fun time with family or friends
and dont mind the crowds, there are plenty
of options on this tiny island.
Besides the Universal Studios theme
park, a casino, museums, golf courses, the
worlds largest aquarium, Segway tours,
indoor skydiving, the sky ride and luge,
numerous beaches and beach bars, and
various resorts and spas, as ever in foodobsessed Singapore, there are a variety
of dining options. You can choose from a
romantic dinner in one of the restaurants by
anyone of their sovereignty as a nation, but

for now, this seafaring odditys inhabitants
remain steadfast in its legitimacy.
Sentosa Cove, dine at Australian chef Cat

Coras underground Ocean Restaurant, with
its views of the marine life in the aquarium
as sharks and manta rays swim by. Or you
can hit up one of the food courts and grab
something more typical, from nasi lemak to
mee laksa, roti prata or bak kut teh.
If youre looking for peace and tranquility,
then Sentosa may not quite be your place.
But if youre searching for without doubt
the most sophisticated leisure centre in the
region, then Sentosa wins hands down.
Pulau Kusu: Land of the Spirit
Pulau Kusu is the furthest away of the

three islands from the mainland. Lying in
the southern part of Singapore, although
small its just over 8.5 hectares to
many Singaporeans, Kusu has an important
spiritual meaning.
After an hours cruise on a replica Ming
Dynasty era ship, sailing past Sentosa
and then weaving through the southern
Alcatraz Island
San Francisco, USA
Sometimes referred to as The Rock not
to be confused with the professional wrestler
Alcatraz Island was home to the infamous
maximum security prison with which it
islands of Tekukor, Seringat, Lazarus and

St. John, we arrive at Kusu with its blue
lagoon, pristine beach and tranquil setting.
Uninhabited, it is a popular pilgrimage
destination for those seeking to pray for
wealth, good marriage, health, harmony and
prosperity.
According to legend, a giant tortoise
turned itself into an island in order to save
two shipwrecked sailors, a Malay and a
Chinese, near the Singapore waters. It was
therefore named Kusu, the Chinese for
tortoise.
152 steps up the hill stand three shrines,
or kramats, to commemorate the pious
Malay, Syed Abdul Rahman, his mother,
Nenek Ghalib, and sister, Puteri Fatimah,
who lived in the 19th century. Painted
yellow it is strikingly quiet except for a
Malaysian couple, we are the only visitors.
An old man wearing a taqiyah, a Muslim
skull cap, tells us he has been looking after
the shrines for 20 years. In a short ceremony
he places ash on the back of our hands,

ties cloth around our wrists and blesses us.
According to him, most of the pilgrimages
take place during the ninth month of the
lunar calendar. During this month, each day
Kusu sees thousands of visitors flock to its
tiny shores.
Located at sea level, the Chinese temple
houses two deities Da Bo Gong and Guan
Yin. Built by a wealthy businessman in 1923,
Da Bo Gong is believed to have the power to
confer prosperity, cure diseases, calm the sea
and avert danger. Guan Yin is known as the
giver of sons.
Our tour guide Naseem points out that
the fact a Muslim shrine and Chinese temple
can be found in one location is a typical
example of Singaporean culture. Singapore
is all about mixture and the celebration of
differences, she told me. Of the four of us
who have just been blessed in the Muslim
shrine, only one of us follows Islam. I cant
agree with her more.
shared its name. The treacherous rocky cliffs

and turbulent surrounding waters of San
Francisco Bay granted Alcatraz its penchant
for being the inescapable prison. Some of
the most famous criminals in the United
States were housed here including Al
Capone and George Machine Gun Kelly

and although it now operates as a spooky
museum for brave souls, Alcatraz maintains
its crown as one of the most famous prison
islands in history.
Rebuilding
an Island
A month after Typhoon Haiyan ripped apart
The Philippines, Bea Nguyen headed to a decimated
island with Young Pioneer Disaster Response to pick
up the pieces, and help build new ones. Words by
Ed Weinberg, photos supplied by YPDR
hen the most intense storm ever

to make landfall ripped through
The Philippines, Bea Nguyen,
like many of us, tried to find how
her goodwill would fit into the void left by
Typhoon Haiyan.
I had emailed a bunch of different Red
Crosses, says the arts event organiser and
erstwhile English teacher. American Red
Cross, Red Cross International, Philippine
Red Cross even the Vietnam Red Cross,
because originally I wanted to help on
the central coast. Im already here, Im
Vietnamese, I wanted to help my people. But
volunteerism in Vietnam is such a foreign
concept, unless its in an orphanage and
youre white. Needless to say I didnt get a
reply.
What Philippine Red Cross got back to
me was, Thank you for your interest, and
well let you know when were ready to
deploy. [The typhoon] happened at this
point two weeks beforehand, so its like,
You guys havent deployed anyone yet?
A friend of a friend introduced her to
Rowan Beard, a guide with North Korea
and Philippines-oriented adventure tourism
company Young Pioneer Tours. Three weeks
after Typhoon Haiyan left The Philippines
in shambles, with 6,000 dead and 2 million
homeless, the newly-formed Young Pioneer
Disaster Response sent in their first relief
mission. Bea was among the 15 who would
help rebuild a small island called Bantayan,
whose 140,000 inhabitants had lain directly
in the storms path. Only eight percent of the
homes and schools had survived.
92 Percent Devastation
Until the typhoon, Bantayan Islands major

source of income was tourism. Yet the
15 members of YPDR had to embrace a

different type of tourism with a tent for
accommodation, and construction work as
entertainment. They paid their own way,
and formed a surprisingly effective cadre
for the task at hand. They were led by Chris
P. White and Captain Joseph Ferris III, who
were like two dads telling you what to do.
Chris was on it they were all on it,
the whole team, says Bea. Everyone had a
role, and they did it super well.
After a little reconnaissance, YPDR set
about its original mission, to reconstruct
school facilities with shipping containers
that will withstand future assaults of wind
and water, and also serve as evacuation
centres and storage units in times of crisis.
These shipping containers are built
with weather-resistant steel, says YPDRs
Marshall Mayer, who also has a hand in the
relief efforts, and can be erected on any
foundation to meet thermal, moisture and
water control conditions.
100 new homes are expected to
complement the work on Bantayans schools
by the time this goes to print. But before
these new constructions are started, whats
left had to be taken down.
Says Bea: I went in and completely tore
up a building, just singing, to my chagrin,
Miley Cyruss Wrecking Ball. I did in fact
come in like a wrecking ball.
The Simple Things
Unplugging was unreal, she says, having

let her smartphone run out of charge on that
first day.
With the apocalyptic landscape as
background, it soon became clear what was
worthy of attention. I maybe swapped
around four different articles of clothing,
Bea says. It got to the point where I just

wore my bikini under my work clothes, and
as soon as I was able to, Id just rip them off
and jump into the ocean. I woke up every
morning to the beach, to the waves. Ive
never seen so many stars in my life.
The perspective it gave me its not
like I consciously pushed myself, but the
situation made me aware of what Im
capable of as far as basic needs.
Their tent city was beach-facing, just off
a coconut grove which theyd been granted
to set up on. They ended most nights with a
bonfire, beers, good conversation.
Originally, Bea says, I took it because
they chose me, talking about her decision
to join YPDR on Bantayan. I didnt expect
it to be so great. The way we all worked, it
wasnt like we were volunteers under an
umbrella. Once we were there, we were like

a family, a community.
It wasnt regimented, this ragtag group
of volunteers, which drew on every walk of
life. Bea says, There was a lawyer in there
and Captain Joe is a legit captain. I saw
his captains license. Chris at one point was
a firefighter, hed also worked on an oil rig
doing deep sea welding.
Bea had had some experience with the
mega-organisation Red Cross, signing
up to volunteer in the aftermath of
Hurricane Katrina (although she got
certified and trained, they never called
her for deployment). In her two weeks
volunteering with YPDR, she had a
completely different experience. It was
better.
Whatever ideas you might have,
she says, whatever you imagine in

volunteering abroad for a disaster, this was
it. This should be the poster child for what
volunteering should be like, it was just so
epic an experience.
I didnt know what to expect going into
this. I just allowed myself to go into it, not
expecting anything. Its like being afraid
of the dark you know youre going to
survive, you just dont know whats going
to happen.
I got a hundred times more out of it
than I expected.
For more information about Young Pioneer
Tours and volunteering for YPDR, go to
youngpioneertours.com. To add to the VND500
million already raised by Young Pioneer
Disaster Response, go to indiegogo.com/
projects/typhoon-yolanda-relief--2
Arts
ART
Art & The City

Although the artists may
deny it, Hanois unique
environment produces
an equally unique
creative response. Alyssa
Becht talks to a trio of
artists working in
different mediums.
Photos by Thiep Nguyen
Dinh Cong Dat
anoi is relentless with its artists.

Without them knowing or wishing
it, the city burrows under their
skin and reveals itself in a variety
of ways, in a variety of mediums. Artists
can claim that Hanoi isnt any different
from anywhere else but their work says
otherwise. These artists have a loving
but complicated relationship with their
hometown and their art is dramatic
evidence of it.
Of course, their teachers got it wrong.
The teachers in my art college were really
stupid, says sculptor Dinh Cong Dat.
You can write that. It was like when they
became teachers they gave up on learning.
They lost their drive. If they taught badly
nothing happened to them, there were no
repercussions. The teaching model used
came from France a hundred years before.
It was completely irrelevant to modern
Vietnamese art-making.
Dat aka Crazy Dad, aka Dad Ant
has been a visible character on the
Vietnamese art scene for over 25 years.
His work is instantly recognisable giant
fibreglass praying mantises and stainless
steel figures of his signature creature, The
Ant.
Vu Kim Thu
First impressions of Dat are of a charming,

personable artist with a wealth of knowledge
supporting his work. Though famous for
his sculpture, the most ubiquitous and
visible example of his work is probably the
luxurious India-inspired window displays
he has created for luxury brands Herms,
Dior and Gucci.
Paying the Bills

In Hanoi, Dat feels, art is commercialised.
For high-salary earners or high-end fashion
houses, its a means of showing just how
much money or influence you have.
In Saigon, he says, artists come from
everywhere to make art. Its a big city but the
market is small. In Hanoi, there are foreign
companies like Coca Cola and Piaggio. There
are embassies, the UN, NGOs. There is lots
of money. People with large salaries create
the demand for art as something expensive
to buy and put in their offices and homes.
In Hanoi, artists are motivated by the
desire to create, but theyre also motivated
by money.
Dat understands that corporate art pays
the bills, but he maintains a balance between
moneymaking projects and altruistic ones.
In the past he has run social projects that
taught skills to ex-addicts fresh out of rehab.
I want to give them the means to create
saleable works to support themselves.
Anything they can learn [will help] papier

mach, ceramics so they can make and sell
souvenirs.
In 2014 he will implement a Recycling-asArt project in six provinces across the centre
of Vietnam, encouraging young people to
recycle rubbish into art. He plans to pick the
best works created and hold an exhibition
with a prize for the best work. Through his

social projects Dat is giving disenfranchised
or simply unaware people the tools to make
their future a positive one.
Redefining the Map

Fresh from a residency in Japans Mino
Paper Art Village, Vu Kim Thus recent
Pham Ngoc Duong
In Hanoi, artists are motivated by the desire to create,

but theyre also motivated by money
work reflects her Hanoian background and
the delicacy of Japanese paper sculpture in
equal parts.
Thus work is detailed to the nth degree,
and her process is paramount. She says her
brain is in her hands the concept reveals
itself through the work, rather than vice
versa. The use of light renders the paper
almost skin-like, scored with unknowable
detail like an encrypted map.
I love maps, Thu says. When you
travel, the first thing you ask for when
you come to a new city or new town is a
map of the area. Also when you are in a
plane, looking at the ground as you come
into land the local landscape from
above reveals so much of the character of
a place.
When asked about Hanoi and its influence
on her work Thu says, More or less, an
artists work reflects the society they live in
or what they see in the society they live in.
Thats the same in every country. Its a local
issue thats also global.
My life is not about a specific place; it is
a visual diary of my personal relationship
with line and space. Every destination I
travel through features in my diary and
Hanoi is one of those destinations. When
Im in Hanoi I find my work becomes
smaller and smaller to the point of being
tiny. There is such a feeling of compressed
space in this city. When I leave Hanoi I feel

like I need to expand or grow bigger.
A Human Side
If Thus reaction to Hanoi is to retreat into
the intricacies of line drawing and miniature
landscapes, Pham Ngoc Duongs is to show a
literal translation of what happens to people
exposed to relentless pressure. His paintings
Cold and Sleeping show figures deformed
by the oppression of modern life, cultural
change or a lack of basic human rights.
Duong says that Hanoi doesnt come into
account in the creation of his works. I dont
focus on Hanoi. For me, everywhere is the
same. Its just all names.
But sometimes Hanoi does make me feel
uncomfortable. My exhibition People in the
City discusses the negatives [of] globalisation
and social issues. But my human beings are
in the same environment as everyone else.
Everyone is being forcibly reshaped. My
paintings reflect this.
Reshaping, Reshaped
Duongs paintings show an eroticism thats
lacking from Dat and Thus work. His use
of the human figure is plenteous, while Dat
continues to explore insects and animals and
Thu looks at the world with a cartographers
eye. All three artists are graduates of
Vietnam University of Fine Arts but had
vastly different experiences.

Today, Dat tries to create change through
information and social form. Thu avoids the
representational teaching she was exposed
to, but believes the traditional education she
experienced was worthwhile. Duong sees his
time there as something of value thanks to
the contacts he made and the opportunity to
network.
As independent artists, each is known
for a particular branch of art Dat for
sculpture, Thu for drawing and Duong
for painting. But each artist is prolific in
other fields. Thus light boxes are miniature
sculptures of wood and paper that look
like tiny domestic scenes. Dats window
displays use costume, life-size animals and
colours reminiscent of Frida Kahlo. Duongs
next piece is a dramatic shift away from
his eroticised, crushed figures towards
sculpture, using LED lights and lacquered
wooden board.
Whatever their relationship with the city,
the diversity of their work is facilitated by
Hanoi. The availability of any component,
from bronze to petrified wood to steel, has
helped these artists expand their repertoire
to an extent and with an ease they couldnt
have done anywhere else in the world. As
Dat says, Come on, you can get anything
you want here, just go out onto the street.
This is Vietnam.
Arts
Performance
The Future of
Vietnamese
Dance
For the past six years, Ho Chi Minh City-based ballet
company Arabesque has been redefining the meaning of
Vietnamese dance. Now, with the aid of some
new technologies, its participating in the future
of dance on a global level. Words by Kelly L. Le,
photos by Lam Hieu Thuan
The otherworldly twisting of his body against

the backdrop of flowing silks and climatic
percussion propelled the audience to their feet
ast November, Arabesque and Saigon

Concert Production proudly hosted
the very first International Dance
Festival in Ho Chi Minh City. Though
modest in size, with representatives from
just four countries, the event was successful
in showcasing contemporary dance to the
general public. It lasted seven days, with
the main acts performing two back-to-back
nights at the Opera House.
Featured foreign performers included
Italian Borderline Dance Company, who
managed to arouse the audiences curiosity
with simple, bodily gestures. Starkly
contrasting with their minimal approach
was the equally impressive Dance Company
Moo-E. Focusing on fluidity and angularity,
the Koreans wowed viewers with fierce
technical skills.
But the most engaging performance of the
fest was choreographer Kaiji Moriyamas
dramatic interpretation of Hagoromo the
Japanese legend of a celestial maidens
feather robe. The otherworldly twisting of
his body against the backdrop of flowing
silks and climatic percussion propelled the
audience to their feet. Moriyamas spiritual

sensibilities are closely related to the
aestheticism of Nguyen Tan Loc, Arabesques
director.
Arabesques Entre
Fitting perfectly in with the high-calibre
internationals was Arabesques seven-act
production, The Mist. After just six years,
Arabesque has become the premier neoclassical ballet troupe in Ho Chi Minh City.
With alumni performing in Singapore and
Germany, and new recruits competing in
festivals in Korea and Japan, they earn praise
for fostering cross-cultural collaborations and
providing platforms for local talents to shine
internationally.
The ballet tells a story of Vietnamese
farmers. A rustic spectacle of bamboo
bridges, spiral incense and conical hats, the
show embodies all the charms and colours
of the south. Considered Arabesques most
acclaimed piece, The Mist is the first to allow
the troupe to bridge the trans-Atlantic gap,
touring selected American cities at the end of
the year.
Besides performances, the festival offered

multiple workshops at Le Thanh Theatre (25
Phan Phu Tien, Q5, Ho Chi Minh City). The
themes included awareness of the body, as
well as rapid creativity and floor movements.
An average of 25 people participated in the
intense one-and-a-half hour workshops.
There were dance students, curious expats
and even local celebrities such as Do Quang
Dang, finalist in Vietnams 2013 So You Think
You Can Dance competition.
Ngo Thanh Phuong, Arabesques
choreographer and instructor at the
citys dance school, says that this kind of
international exchange is what Vietnamese
dance needs to thrive. I used to give classes
on horizontal movements, she says. Most
didnt take me seriously. After [Moo-E
dancer] Kim Sung Yungs seminar, a former
student finally understood.
I asked her, Was there a reason why what
I said didnt resonate with you before? She
replied, No, its just that he is a foreigner.
Laughing full-heartedly, Phuong continues,
Young Vietnamese dancers are too timid to
venture outside classical boundaries. Without
international support, we will always be seen

as the crazy troublemakers.
Future Moves
Besides the international diplomacy, Phuong
is also active on the other frontier of dance,
the technical side. Her latest experiment is
a research project with RMIT Saigon. Under
the direction of lecturer Paul Verity Smith,
she and a team of two dancers, Minh Thu
and Anh Khoa, have been meeting on the
weekends to develop choreography that will
complement new interactive technologies.
The goal is for dancers to take sole ownership
of their performances by controlling elements
of staging through movement.
Wearing accelerometers and light sensors
on their bodies, dancers trigger live recording
and pre-recorded videos, as well as generate
sounds for the stage. The result of the
teams year-long experiment is a 40-minute
production called Intimacies. Loosely
referencing a love story, Intimacies is a dance
montage of the three peoples POVs against
the backdrop of Ho Chi Minh City.
Technically speaking, the project has a
high degree of originality. Tran Van Chinh,

an RMIT student, has created the computer
program Isadora specifically for the
occasion. Her program converts the dancers
movements into raw data, then outputs them
as commands to manipulate the transparency
of images being projected on stage. Such
software enables a highly personalised
experience that changes every time the show
is being performed.
In the beginning the dancers struggled
with getting used to the technology. Minh
Thu explains, I didnt know what to
do because I was still thinking about me
triggering the sensors rather than letting
them be extensions of myself.
Phuong agrees. It was a learning
process, she says. We constantly tweaked
our movements so as to not interfere with
excess wires of our receivers.
Both agree that having gone through
the project, they have a more profound
awareness of the physical presence of their
bodies.
While Intimacies shines as a technological
innovation, as a production, it falls shorts in
presenting a cohesive narrative. Some of this

has to do with the abrupt mixing of original
noise-like music and found melodies. But
mostly, its the choices in the pre-recorded
images and use of props which come
across as randomised rather than deliberate.
For example, the second-to-last scene
depicts a female performer dancing with
multiple shadows of wooden chairs.
Triggering the sensors, a four-second-delayed
video loop of her in real time is recorded
and projected back on the stage. Prior to
this scene, most of the images used were
close-ups of the dancers body parts. The
introduction of a new inanimate object here
seems out of place.
Irrespective of these points, Intimacies is
a praiseworthy collaborative endeavour.
Both Arabesque and RMIT have shown an
exceptional dedication to creativity. And with
overwhelming excitement and support for
this collaboration, Phuong can rest assured
that there will be more avant-garde projects
to come in the Year of the Horse.
To learn about upcoming performances, head to
arabesque.com.vn
eat & drink

Our Hanoi Judges
Vincenzo Fiorile
Italian Embassy
Brew of choice: Lavazza
Morning routine: As soon
as I open my eyes, I make a
coffee. By 1pm, Ive had four or
five. I take my Moka machine
everywhere. I even put it in my
luggage!
Virgile Torres
Dons Tay Ho
Brew of choice: Lavazza
Morning routine: In the
morning, I have a double
espresso. Every hour after that,
an espresso. If I dont have that,
I fall asleep.
Chi Anh
KAfe and Kitchen Art
Brew of choice: mocha
Morning routine: Im very
sensitive to caffeine so I
normally drink tea. But when I
do have coffee, I have a mocha.
I love how coffee and chocolate
bring out each others flavours.
Nick Ross
Word Vietnam
Brew of choice: Caff Vergnano
1882
Morning routine: Every
morning I have two Americanos.
Ill have a flat white on the
weekends.
INSIDER
The Caffeine
Contests
How do you take your coffee? Espresso? Cappuccino?
Latte? Eight judges took a mixture of (almost) everything
as they tasted their way through 11 blends over two
caffeine-fuelled mornings. Words by Hoa Le and
Ed Weinberg. Photos by Francis Roux and Francis Xavier
e love our coffee in Vietnam,

and these days the iced robusta
version is being substituted
for the espresso, and all the
milky variations that come with it. So
we got together the best caffeinated
brews in Vietnam together with some
discriminating palates to blind-taste
our way through a veritable selection

of espressos. It was hard-going, eyes
goggled, and our palates got stained with
caffeine. But thanks to the baristas, who
put together some great brews, our judges
went through a total of 22 brews in two
cities. Not bad going for two mornings
work.
Malongo
Malongo is a French coffee, started in 1934 in
Nice. Malongo is one of the first companies
to adopt Fair Trade policies, having done so
in 1992.
Better Day
Better Day coffees are made with
handpicked Arabica beans from small-scale
coffee farmers in Vietnam, mainly from Son
La in the mountainous north. The businesss
philosophy is to produce products that are
under strict chemical safety control and
create sustainable development in rural
areas of Vietnam.
The Brands
Illy
Illy was established in 1933 in Trieste, Italy
by Francesco Illy, who later invented the first
automatic coffee machine. Illy arrived in
Vietnam in 2007.
Hanoi Tasting
Oriberry
Oriberry offers Fair Trade prices to local
coffee growers in regions across Vietnam.
Established in 2009, they work with local
and indigenous farmers across Vietnam to
bring premium quality single origin coffee.
Punto Italia
Punto Italia arrived in Vietnam in 2008, and
services most of the hotel crowd as well as a
number of notable restaurants in both Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City.
The Tasting
The Result
The terrace on the second floor of Oriberry

on Xuan Dieu overlooking West Lake
seemed like the perfect location for a blind
tasting coffee session in an early winter
day in Hanoi. Each brand had two tastings,
an espresso and a cappuccino. All brands
were encouraged to bring their own
barista, but Better Day and Malongo didnt
have one, so their coffees were made by the
Oriberry team.
The beans were ground freshly before
each round, only interrupted by a thorough
cleaning of the grinder. Punto Italia brought
their own coffee machine, while the other
brands used the machine provided at the
venue. The judges were provided with
water and chocolate chip cookies and
the scoring was broken down into five
parts: acidity, aroma/flavour, balance, body
and overall. The final scores were based
on the overall score. All the scores were
calibrated on a 1-worst, 5-best basis with
the exception of acidity. For acidity, its a
simple quantitative measure: 1 being the
lowest, 5 being the highest.
Coffee Number 1 Illy
Coffee Number 2 Malongo
Espresso:
Espresso:
Too acidic for me Chi Anh
A coffee wakes you up, a woman cheers you up.

This espresso is a woman! Virgile
You know, I didnt find it acidic. Strong, but not

acidic. Its not thrilling, but its not disgusting.
Average Virgile
Score:
Acidity: 4.0 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.1 //
Balance: 2.9 // Body: 3.5
This one will wake you up with a jolt at night

Nick
Score:
Balance: 3.6 // Body: 4
Cappuccino:
Cappuccino:
Its interesting. I think I know which one it is.

Its so much better with milk Nick
The aroma really shines through Chi Anh
The milk covers the smell. But I think its ok. Its
much better this way Vincenzo
Score:
This coffee screams out, Im a good

cappuccino! Nick
Score:
And the winner is: Best Espresso: Punto Italia The Top Three: Punto Italia (4.3), Malongo (4.0), Oriberry (3.3)
Hanoi Tasting
Coffee Number 3 Better Day
Coffee Number 4 Oriberry
Coffee Number 5 Punto Italia
Espresso:
Espresso:
Espresso:
Milder than the previous one but still with a

kick Nick
Very smooth Nick
Imagine if you have to associate film actors

with coffee. Id say this one really suits Ryan
Gosling. A bit rough but still has that tenderness,
softness Chi Anh
Good coffee if you have nothing to compare it

with Virgile
Score:
Its interesting. Its strong without too much

acidity Virgile
This coffee is one for a day. The feeling is

longer Vincenzo
Score:
Score:
Cappuccino:
Cappuccino:
Cappuccino:
Cool and strong Vincenzo
Not enough aroma Chi Anh
Yum! Chi Anh
Too watery. Too thin, no depth Nick
Nice aftertaste, smooth and flavoured

Virgile
Lovely, but not crushing Virgile
Score:
Score:
Acidity: 1.8 //Aroma/Flavour: 2.8 //
Score:
And the winner is: Best Cappuccino: Malongo The Top Three: Malongo (4.9), Punto Italia (4.6), Illy (3.6)
Our HCMC Judges

Andy OBrien
Chef at LUsine
Brew of choice: Illy
Morning routine: Its ritual
that every morning I have a
double latt.
Will Frith
Specialty Coffee Consultant
Brew of choice: Washed
Kenya or Ethiopia beans, selfroast, brewed by paper filter,
Chemex
Morning routine: I brew
probably about 500ml of coffee
for my wife and me, and some
really productive mornings we
brew another 500ml.
Nguyen Thanh Truc
Owner of [a] caf
Brew of choice: African
or Dalat beans, self-roast,
Japanese iced method
Morning routine: Ill drink
an ice-brewed coffee.
Ed Weinberg
Word Vietnam
Brew of choice: Eastgate
beans, via Chemex
Morning routine: Sometimes
Ill start with a western-style
filter brew at home, sometimes
Ill stop at Startup or Chicco
Dicaff for a quick latt.
The Brands
Lavazza
Started in 1895 in Piedmont, Italy, Lavazza
has successfully straddled the line between
quality producer and massive global
presence. Branded as Italys Favourite
Coffee, their Wikipedia page claims that
16 out of the 20 million coffee-purchasing
households in Italy buy Lavazza.
Hausbrandt
Hausbrandt is an Italian coffee brand thats
been around since 1892, and it was the first
brand in the world to offer products factory
packaged and sealed for sale.
Malongo
Malongo is a French coffee, started in 1934 in
Nice. Malongo is one of the first companies
to adopt Fair Trade policies, having done so
in 1992.
Ho Chi Minh City Tasting
Les Vergers Du Mekong

French parent company Folliet sources
domestically grown beans for Les Vergers
Du Mekongs light French-style roast,
produced locally since 2000. The blend
is culled from Arabica in the Highlands
in Vietnam and Robusta from different
Vietnamese regions.
Punto Italia
Punto Italia Vietnam arrived in Vietnam in
2008, and services most of the hotel crowd
as well as some of the better restaurants in
Vietnam.
Caff Vergnano 1882

Its lineage is right in the name, Caff
Vergnano is Italys oldest coffee producer at
the national level.
Ho Chi Minh City Tasting
The Tasting
The tasting is at The Loop at 49 Thao Dien,
Q2, at 10am. Each brand had two tastings,
an espresso and a cappuccino. All brands
brought their own baristas, squeezed into
a far corner of the venue with two coffee
machines, separated from the judges table
by a vinyl banner.
The beans were ground freshly before
each round, only interrupted by thorough
cleanings. The judges were provided with
water and apple slices and, eventually,
flavoured-cream cheese bagels. The scoring
was broken down into five parts: acidity,
aroma/flavour, balance, body and overall. The
final scores are based on the overall score. All
the scores are calibrated on a 1-worst, 5-best
basis with the exception of acidity. For
acidity, its a simple quantitative measure: 1
being the lowest, 5 being the highest.
The Result
Coffee Number 1 Lavazza
Coffee Number 2 Hausbrandt
Coffee Number 3 Les Vergers Du Mekong
Espresso:
Espresso:
Espresso:
Its a balanced, standard coffee Truc
This ones smoother, but the first one had more

character, more punch. I was actually surprised
by the comments on the first one Nick Ross,
taking a sip
I can smell this one from over here Ed
Something has to make me want to come back

for more this doesnt Andy
I like the smell on this one Andy

Score:
Score:
[Nick slaps the table]

Slapping good! Andy
Score:
Cappuccino:
Cappuccino:
Cappuccino:
Its designed to handle milk large volumes of

milk Will
The taste reminds me of that char that Oreo

cookies have Will
Why is it so sweet? Ed
Jesus, Im not a fan of milk Andy

Score:
Score:
This one reminds me of Whoppers... Thats my

tasting vocabulary, I ate a crazy amount of junk
food as a child. [Self-deprecating,] This one
reminds me of Doritos! Will
Score:
And the winner is: Best Espresso: Malongo The Top Three: Malongo (4.1), Hausbrandt (4.0), Punto Italia (3.6)
Malongos Prize:
Some Kind Words
When we at the Ho Chi Minh City tasting
discovered that our uniform favourite also
scored well in Hanoi, we were surprised.
The professional ringer in our midst,
speciality coffee consultant Will Frith,
explained the achievement like this:
In order for them to accomplish that level
of presentation in their product, they have to
have strong coffee sourcing, roasting and
production has to be really tight. Its usually
a blend that changes throughout the year
to maintain a good profile throughout
the year is quite a challenge, even to
professionals. So cheers on them for that.
The packing and distribution has to
be good, because what I tasted from their
coffees was freshness. Espressos are only
fresh for less than a month, literally youve
got about two weeks to get the peak flavour
out of it. So thats very good on them for
distribution and logistics.
And then, for the barista, thats the final
portion of it. If they dont do the product
justice, then youll never know how good it
could be.
Coffee Number 4 Malongo
Coffee Number 5 Punto Italia
Coffee Number 6 Caff Vergnano 1882
Espresso:
Espresso:
Espresso:
Thats a proper espresso oh, it crashes on the

finish. Its like a car going too fast down a deadend road Will
This is a little bit stronger than the others, its

quite different Truc
Theres something grapey or raisiny about the

aftertaste Will
[Eating a blue cheese spread bagel] Its a little

blue cheese and bagely Will
[The rest of us are busy, recalibrating scores]
Maybe Im a thrill seeker, but I like this one best

so far Ed
Score:
Balance: 3.6// Body: 3.8
Score:
Score:
Cappuccino:
Cappuccino:
Cappuccino:
[Sips with deadening taste buds] Its a bit of a

disadvantage to go number 6 Andy
Its like powdered bakers chocolate with no

sugar Will
This is creamy and silky, it lingers but doesnt

loiter Will
Its weird how Im kind of tired, but so awake!
[eyes bulging] Ed
Score:
Score:
Score:
And the winner is: Best Cappuccino: Malongo The Top Three: Malongo (4.1), Hausbrandt (4.0), Caff Vergnano 1882 (3.9)
eat & drink
round-up
Vegetarian Hanoi
A dedicated herbivore, Katie Jacobs gives us
the insiders view on eating vegetarian cuisine
in the capital. Photos by Thiep Nguyen
njoying Vietnamese food while

avoiding meat can be a challenge.
Especially in the meat-loving
north where admitting youre
vegetarian often spurs a similar response to
announcing youve caught a deadly disease:
a mixture of pity and confusion as to how
this could have happened. The following
is a list of street food and small restaurants
where a vegetarian can somewhat integrate
ones self into the wonderful culture and
atmosphere that is Vietnamese food.
Street Food
Bun Dau
Corner of Ngo Tram and Ha Trung near Cho
Hang Da, Hoan Kiem
Freshly cooked by roving street stalls
throughout the day, bun dau is a saviour
for vegetarians in search of street food. So
long as you like tofu. A plate of cold bun
(noodles) is served with an abundance of
fresh herbs, lime, chilli and freshly fried
tofu that is crispy on the outside and
smooth as silk on the inside. Make sure
to specify no meat otherwise watch out
for fried pork masquerading as tofu. Like
many Vietnamese dishes, this will come
with shrimp or fish-based sauce on the side,
easily avoided if you wish. If you dont
fancy the stuff on the street you can try the
small, busy restaurant on Ha Trung which
is open for lunch.
Banh Cuon Chay
On the right hand side of Tran Huy Lieu, Dong
Da, one block from Kim Ma
Banh cuon is a rice paper crepe (of some
sort) that is understated and, in my opinion,
usually underrated. At the place on Tran
Huy Lieu, you can see them making the
fresh crepes by rapidly spreading and
flipping the thin white sheets over a
steamer. The result is a subtly-flavoured,
warm slimy dish that tastes much better
than it sounds. It is served with herbs, chilli
and a steaming bowl of fish-based sauce
on the side. The banh cuon chay comes with
dried onion (ask for extra) I strongly
recommend taking soy sauce to compensate
for the fish sauce.
Bia Hoi snacks
Bia Hoi on the southern corner of Tran Phu and
Ngo 34A Tran Phu, Hoan Kiem
Bia Hoi near the northern corner of Bat Dan
and Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem
Bia Hois vary in the amount and quality
of food they offer but the majority will at
least have a couple of vegetarian options
to go with your ice cold beer (or beer with
ice). Fried tofu and morning glory with
garlic can be found at most places, but for
more interesting options these two joints
(open most afternoons and evenings) have
extensive menus in English.
Banh Trang Nuong
48 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, open in the evening
If you have a hankering for both pizza and

Vietnamese food then banh trang nuong
is the dish for you. Often described as
Vietnamese pizza, this unique dish from
Dalat is a large round sheet of rice paper
that is grilled with various toppings. There
is a tasty vegetarian option with an egg on
top.
Fried Rice / Noodles
If you are not too concerned about: a) meat
touching your food or b) the occasional
sprinkle of fish sauce, then you can usually
grab a tasty dish at any of the small
places serving fried rice or noodles where
they will happily cook you up a plate of
something with a few veggies and no meat.
The noodles are usually the better option
(particularly fresh pho noodles), but avoid
ordering my which are just fried instant
noodles. Instant noodles have a high salt
content.
Restaurants
Com Chay Nang Tam
79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem
This small restaurant is either delicious
or slightly off-putting depending on how

you feel about fake meat, the staple of
many vegetarian or Buddhist restaurants
in Hanoi. However, they make nice nem ran
chay (fried vegetarian spring rolls) which I
am always excited about, and I recommend
the lunchtime meal plan if youre a fan of
dishes such as vegan pate. It is generally
agreed that faux-meat was created to make
carnivores feel welcome when eating
Buddhist food and Com Chay Nanh Tam
does this well. This place is a particular
favourite of my meat-loving dining partner.
Loving Hut
192/4 Quan Thanh, Ba Dinh; 18/71 Nguyen
Hong, Dong Da
Possibly better known for its close
association with a spiritual movement
rather than its food, the Loving Hut
restaurants in Hanoi are part of an
international vegan restaurant chain.
Offering solid, cheap and tasty vegan meals
in a slightly cramped but clean space,
Loving Hut is a great place to grab a quick
lunch or informal dinner. The menu is
extensive and there are many options that
dont involve faux-meat.
May Trang (White Cloud)

2 Ngo 12, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
Serving up excellent food (and I dont just
mean for vegetarians), May Trang earns its
reputation as one of the best vegan places
in Hanoi. This small, non-descript place
close to the Syrena Centre has a wonderful
menu that avoids the two things that are
often the downfall of many vegetarian
restaurants too much fake meat and not
enough flavour. Order anything its all
delicious.
Dessert
Thankfully dessert is the one Vietnamese
food option that does not include fish
sauce (as far as I know). Hanoi has many
places to try, but my favourites, which are
open from around 10am to 10pm, are as
follows:
Kem Xoi and Sua Chua Hoa Qua
On the north side of Tran Phu just before the
corner with Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh
Offering a sweet, gooey mix of sticky rice,
ice-cream, and desiccated coconut, Kem
Xoi always wins in the dessert category.

There are places scattered around the city
but this particular one also serves good
sua chua hoa qua, which is yogurt, ice, small
jellies and fresh fruit, usually mit (jack
fruit).
Che
Near the corner of Hang Da and Duong
Thanh, Hoan Kiem
If you have somehow not yet tried this
dessert, which is an odd assortment of
jellies covered in coconut cream and
served with ice, you are missing out. Be
warned that not all che is created equal, but
this place is a safe bet. You will recognise
it by the table with many coloured bowls
laid out containing the jelly choose
which ones look appealing or just go for
them all at once.
Bo bia ngot
Side of the road, usually along Thanh Nien,
Ba Dinh
Served on the side of the road from the
back of a bike, this incredibly sweet
snack of small pancake rolled around
honeycomb, coconut and poppy seeds

(no, there is no beer involved) makes for
a delectable treat with a great texture
combination. Dont be tempted to eat more
than one, you will regret it.
Useful Points
Khong thit literally means no meat and
is an essential phrase that usually gets
the point across. Make sure to say it a
few times or write it down.
An chay means to eat vegetarian
and although it is a useful word to know,
I find khong thit to be more effective.
Unless you are eating in a vegan
restaurant, nuoc mam or fish sauce
is served with pretty much everything
and dishes without it can seem slightly
bland. So I recommend carrying
sachets of soy sauce to compensate.
On the first and 15th of the lunar
month many restaurants will offer
more vegetarian options and Buddhist
restaurants usually serve vegan buffets.
For many more vegetarian options
around the city, search for Hanoi on the
Happy Cow website: happycow.net
eat & drink
The younger generation were after

somewhere to hang out and have a drink.
Vietnamese dont want to go to western
bars as they are not friendly for them.
They dont feel comfortable there
Ahoy!
MOB Beer Club
trends
Beer Club Evolution

You may or may not have noticed it but thirsty Saigon professionals have found
a new home the beer club. Derek Milroy reports. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
Shooters
hen the beer house Vuvuzela

opened up in April with its
Hooters-style uniform for
the female staff, it sparked a
change in the citys drinking culture. With
a growing urge for professional workers
to forge a scene of their own, a scene that
falls somewhere in between top-end bars
and street-side quan nhau, they spotted their
opportunity.
Now the city boasts half a dozen such
beer houses with similar themes. Some like
Shooters and Vuvuzela go for the more
revealing staff uniforms, others like Ahoy
take a different approach Ahoy has their
staff dress in sailors outfits. During the day
its all about beer drinking, food and chat.
At night the pumping dance music takes
over, even more beer hits the tables, and the
mandatory food and light bites come to the
fore. But most important is the environment.
Modern, aircon, attractive beer-influenced
dcor, but without the prices of nightclubs or
top-end bars.
As beer club regular Mark who
confesses, I have a lot of time on my hands
explains, expats are not part of this
scene. They are welcome, but are very much
outsiders, mere scenery.
All of these places like Vuvuzela and
Shooters are Vietnamese hang outs; there
are at most a handful of foreigners. If you
had 10 percent of foreigners at one of these
places Id be surprised, he says. Youll see
Vietnamese going to clubs at night, but there
was no place for them to go during the day
time until these places came around. The

working lunch needed a venue and this is
it.
Thuy, a Shooters regular, explains that
the younger Saigonese lacked a suitable
venue. A lot of them rejected western bars
downtown, but now they feel they have
found their home.
The younger generation were after
somewhere to hang out and have a drink,
she says. Vietnamese dont want to go to
western bars as they are not friendly for
them. They dont feel comfortable there, but
when they come to places like Shooters, they
like this kind of music, they like hanging out,
drinking and dancing. Its fun.
One thing that puzzles Mark, though, is
where these Vietnamese beer club regulars
went before they joined the scene.
The Toronto natives own experience
of these types of bars was at Hooters, the
infamous North American franchise. He
is surprised by how quickly the scene has
taken off, but he believes it makes perfect
sense. He still hears the occasional mot hai
ba, but the beer clubs have a more upmarket
crowd.
There was nowhere for Vietnamese to
drink in the daytime indoors, he explains.
So the beer club owners came up with this
concept of air-conditioned bars. I think they
had the first place in Hanoi Vuvuzela
which was a success, and two weeks after
this place opened it was packed. You come
here at night and you cant get a seat. It is
standing room only and this is a pretty big
place. If you dont book a table, be prepared

to stand if there is any space left. Id say the
guys who opened these places are pioneers
on tapping the Vietnamese drinking market.
A Real Hoot
Mark was first alerted when he saw a post
on Facebook site Another Side of Vietnam that
explained that Vuvuzela was a Vietnamese
attempt at Hooters, so he ended up googling
Vuvuzela and showed up. As a regular beer
drinker he found not only a great bar but the
drinks promo of a lifetime VND550,000
for 100 beers with a VIP card.
As soon as I found out about the deal
on the 100 beers, my friends and I bought
10 cards between us and we didnt need to
worry about paying for the beer, just the
food, he says. Some of the beer clubs let
you use the 100 beers voucher if you pay
for food, but you are only allowed 10 beers
per visit. Shooters does the same thing for
VND600,000 without the food requirement.
The promotions were effective in getting
people through the door. It worked for me.
What about the ladies? Mark, a 13-year
Saigon veteran, has noticed many changes
when it comes to ladies going to a bar. It is
night and day compared to a decade ago.
These beer clubs are places where a lot of
Vietnamese women go, he says. 10 years
ago most women would never go to bars.
But in the beer clubs loads of Vietnamese
women of all ages are coming in groups and
drinking beer. This never existed before.
Before people would open a beer hall, there
Vuvuzela
would be no aircon apart from the VIP

room, but since these places started popping
up the women are coming. They are more
female friendly. Maybe it is going from coffee
culture to beer culture.
Ahoy regulars My and Thuy agree. My
says, Yes, Vietnamese ladies enjoy coming
to bars like this. I like it, and I like to drink
beer with the boys.
These places are for more professional
people, Thuy says. My Vietnamese friends
come to places like this every day. They dont
care about money, they care about [having
fun]. The beer is cheap compared to their
lifestyle. My friends, girls and guys, can
come to Shooters every day, they can start
drinking at 6pm or 7pm and end the night
about 9pm and go home and sleep, wake up,
go to work. It is kind of cool. I like it here. A
place to relax after work for a while.
She insists that Viet Kieu and other
Saigonese who have spent time abroad
studying or travelling in Europe understand
western culture, but they put their own take
on these type of bars.
Westerners would rather go somewhere
quiet and drink beer and talk, she explains.
Vietnamese like to have fun and loud
music, and talk nonsense. Maybe sometimes
it is better we dont hear each other. We dont
want to care about work and just want to
laugh and have fun.
Riding the Wave

Once Vuvuzela had made an impact, a lot of
businesses followed suit with Beer Republic
sprouting up across from Saigon Square,

Beer and Grill further down Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Ahoy at the foot of Pasteur in the
banking area of the city, Shooters in District
3s Le Quy Don and MOB across from the
Reunification Palace. All these places have
their own beer promotions to get the punters
in the door.
It seems like the marketing campaigns
are trying to target every market, says
Mark. You have the cheap charlies who
are buying the VIP cards for 100 draughts,
which normally cost VND30,000 each. There
is also a market for high-end beers, imported
Belgian beers in some places. There are the
beer towers [many customers] love that
gimmick. In Vuvuzela there is a two-way
mirror so you can see the other customers
when using the toilet. Some people are not
sure it is a toilet.
And the food? Most places offer
Vietnamese and foreign-style food. Two guys
I met at Vuvuzela were having rice dishes on
one plate with Russian-style pork on another.
Hien was making his big beer club debut.
This is my first time here, he says. This
place is famous and I want to try it. My
friend told me about Vuvuzela and it is great.
You can come here during daylight and stay
late. We are eating some western and some
Vietnamese food, so we dont get too drunk.
Huy from Ahoy feels safer in a beer
club than he would in a more dangerous
western bar where he is scared a fight could
break out at any time.
I have come here many times, he says.
I come to relax after work. If Im frustrated

or stressed I come to chill out. It is a nice
place, has aircon, good beer and the price is
not expensive. Vietnamese people are more
comfortable here. The bars full of westerners
are too dangerous. Maybe when they are
drunk they want to beat you.
Information
If you want to head for your beer
club fix, check out one of these
city venues:
B eer
and
G rill (BG S aigon )
37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1
S hooters B eer H ouse

31 Le Quy Don, Q1
V uvuzela
11 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1;

A43 Truong Son, Tan Binh
MOB B eer C lub
B eer R epublic
A hoy B eer C lub
79 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1
eat & drink
MYSTERY DINER hanoi
KAfe
THE VERDICT
Some new restaurants hit the market with a bang. Others take time to
settle in. Our undercover reporter heads to the newly opened KAfe to
see if the talk is more than just hype. Photos by Francis Roux
ts Sunday afternoon and Im

squeezing into a corner seat
at the KAfe, marvelling at the
number of people packed into
the narrow industrial-style room.
They all seem to be eating the
same things: burgers stacked on
wooden boards, fresh juices in
Mason jars, pink macaroons. Hip
hop is blaring over the speakers.
You see theres leaders, and
theres followers, Kanye tells us.
The KAfe definitively falls into
the former category. The cuisine
is headed up by chef Joel Manton,
whose work you might recognise
from Pots n Pans, and the kitchen
turns out an eclectic array of western
dishes that appeal to Vietnamese
consumers as much as to expats.
The new winter menu offers hearty
fare, like roast chicken with mashed
potatoes and baked penne with
cheddar and cauliflower, as well as a
rotating selection of soups. But some
of the best dishes are longstanding
classics.
Melt in your Mouth

Some customers return time and
again for the fettuccine with beef
ragu (VND160,000), which gets
its own page on the glossy menu.
Theres a good reason: beef is
cooked until it falls apart into
tender strands, then spooned over

homemade noodles that soak up
the juices. Bathed in herb-infused
butter, this ragu is the kind of dish
that reduces even the most dignified
diner to sheepish slurping.
Picking over the menu for a side
of vegetables takes some work,
but I take a leap of faith and go
for the sauteed seasonal greens
(VND30,000). In most restaurants,
this turns out to be a losing
proposition. But at the KAfe, it
turns out, the dish is misadvertised:
theres far more than green to this
vibrant bowl full of mushrooms,
carrots, zucchini and other seasonal
odds and ends, all flavoured with a
generous handful of garlic.
For dessert, there are colorful
macarons and cupcakes baked
in-house. A lot of tables order
spiced waffles, then pick at them,
apparently confused as to what
to do with the daunting squares. I
order bittersweet chocolate pudding
(VND50,000), a rich, dense cup of
thick pudding infused with orange
liqueur and flecks of peel. Its a
dessert you might find in a far more
elegant restaurant -- except for the
biscotti garnishing the presentation,
which seems to have spent so much
time in the oven it shrunk into
barely more than a burnt crumb. Its
one of the few mistakes in a mostly

seamless meal, which makes it stick
out all the more.
Price, too, determines
satisfaction. At the KAfe, most
prices are surprisingly reasonable,
even more so when you consider
that many of the tapas-style dishes
are meant to be shared. Youll
pay more than you will for street
food, of course, but far less than at
western restaurants half as good.
That fettuccine could compete with
the best pastas in town. By that
standard, its a bargain.
If the KAfes inventive spelling
doesnt announce its modernist
ambitions, those are made clear
by the exposed brick walls and
industrial cement floor, as well
as the furniture carved from
unpolished wood. Its an aesthetic
echoed by clothing boutique Antiq
downstairs, and one thats very
much an anomaly on this section
of bustling Dien Bien Phu, a
neighbourhood with few artistic or
humorous tendencies. But there are
indications that this is changing.
On the wall outside, in what might
be Hanois largest mural, a fluffy
canine says, I smell cupcakes,
dawg!
The KAfe is at 18 Dien Bien Phu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: (04) 3747 6245
12
Food
10
Service
10
Dcor
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
street snacker hanoi
Ngan Nuong
Barbecued Muscovy duck is the perfect tonic for a cold winters night.
Words by Elisabeth Rosen. Photos by Francis Roux
he kindergarten courtyard is
packed tonight, but theres not a
child in sight. Locals slurp noodles
at plastic tables, surrounded
by pastel murals in loopy, childish
handwriting.
In Hanoi, space is a valuable commodity.
Why waste a perfectly good enclosure just
because its traditionally used for another
purpose especially in such a prime
location?
So every night, after the children leave,
this cozy schoolyard on the edge of the
Old Quarter turns into a lively restaurant.
As the crooked Quan Ngan Hien sign
hanging in the doorway indicates, the
specialty is ngan. Often mistranslated on
Vietnamese restaurant menus as swan
or goose, ngan is in fact Muscovy duck.
Its meat is leaner and more tender than
regular duck, lending itself equally well to
the grill and the stewpot.
Youll find the eponymous Hien, 53,
chopping boiled ngan just inside the
entrance with the rapid fingerwork
acquired from years working at a food and
beverage manufacturing company. The
idea to open a ngan nuong, or barbecued
Muscovy duck joint, occurred to her in
1990, as many entrepreneurs were opening

shops and restaurants in response to the
sweeping economic reforms that loosened
restrictions on small businesses. Hien was
on maternity leave, and she used the time
to do some market research of sorts.
I tried ngan nuong in a few restaurants.
I thought it was yummy, so I gave it a try!
the native Hanoian says.
Many street eateries serve Muscovy
duck meat boiled in soup. Signs for bun
mien ngan, shorthand for bun or mien
noodles served in ngan broth, can be
found all over the city. But grilled ngan is,
um, a rarer bird. To make the dish, Hien
immerses fresh ngan meat in a homemade
marinade of garlic, oyster sauce and soy
sauce for an hour or two before grilling it
over charcoal. Other places might steam
or boil the meat first, but hers, she says
with pride, is so fresh it doesnt need to
be cooked in advance. Charred but still
tender, the bite-size morsels are served on
a zesty bed of bean sprouts and pickled
cucumber.
Licks of the Trade

Like bun cha, the dish comes with a warm
dipping sauce and rice vermicelli. But
when asked whats in the sauce, Hien

shakes her head, unwilling to compromise
trade secrets. A sniff, however, is
revelatory: a whiff of nuoc mam, along with
the unmistakable aroma of pickled bamboo
shoots.
Those shoots play the starring role in
canh mang, a golden broth of bamboo and
boiled ngan stock that not only rounds out
the meal but also makes an ideal warmer
on a chilly evening. The herb-flecked soup
comes heaped with stewed meat and thick
slices of tiet luoc, blood boiled until crimson
and gelatinous. You can add either bun or
mien, threadlike glass noodles made from
mung bean flour. If you prefer your soup
deconstructed, order the noodles, meat and
broth served separately (bun cham).
Emerging from the restaurant into the
windy night, its hard not to look back
wistfully. Maybe Hien didnt choose the
kindergarten location solely because of
space constraints. The warm lighting and
decorations make this setting feel cosier
than the typical sidewalk eatery almost
like home.
Quan Ngan Hien is at 75 Hang Bong (near
the corner of Phu Doan), Hoan Kiem. Its open
from around 6pm to 10pm
eat & drink
I
The Many Faces
of Com Tam
street snacker hcmc
n Saigon, eating com tam is an obsession.

The dish bitty rice and barbecued
pork with untold variations can be
found everywhere. Yet, this is a dish with
such character that no place does it quite
like the next.
So, time to leave the comfort zone and
meet the many faces of this uniquely
Saigonese stomach-filler.
Lovingly Local
The Saigonese dish with personality, com tam is found

everywhere. But what can you expect?
Words by Nick Ross. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
Com Tam 40A

40A Quoc Huong, Q2
Price: VND20,000 for com tam suon
Its messy, its in the front room of someones
house, its in the heart of Thao Dien and
damn its tasty. For those of you living in
District 2 who dont know this com tam joint,
you are seriously missing out. Its one of
the best local-style joints in town and its
constantly crowded to boot. Positives: the
rice is perfectly steamed, the ribs are meaty
without being too thickly cut, the rice is served
up with pickled cabbage, a nice touch, and the
other dishes like thit heo quay and canh kho qua
that go with the rice are rich without being
overpowering. The negative? Only one. The
fish sauce and the mashed chilli, ot xay, could
be better. Not that this is a complaint its
a quibble. A gem of an eatery in the most
unlikely of places.
Old n Saucy
Com Tam 114
114 Vo Thi Sau, Q1
Price: VND30,000 with suon, VND60,000 with
bo kho
Ive never tasted the suon here, but why would
I when the com tam bo kho option (bitty rice
with beef casserole) is so good. The rice is
fragrant and slightly sweet, the bo kho is thick
and oily like an Indian curry, yet the stock is
rich and complex. Here when they serve beef
they mean it. You dont just get a few chunks
of meat for good measure, you get a healthy
chunk of cow. Established in 1956, this skinny,
unassuming joint has a rightful reputation for
good com tam. Theyve certainly earned it.
Big n Brutal
Lovingly Local
Ba Ghien
84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan
Price: VND33,000 for com tam suon
You want it big n full on? You want the heat
of the streets of Saigon? And you want it fancooled? You dont mind the sound of womens
voices screeching over your head and youre
hungry, damn hungry. You want huge chicken
drumsticks and heavy weight-sized slabs of
pork rib. There is only one place to satisfy your
lust for large-portioned, gluttonishly tasty com
tam, and that is Ba Ghien. Big but tender, brutal
but filling, naughty but infinitely nice. This
place is an institution.
Big n Brutal
Forever Famous
Modern n Industrial
Com Tam Thuan Kieu 9

114 Yersin, Q1
Price: VND36,000 for com tam suon, VND4,000
extra for each bowl of pickles
You want a place not just resting on its
laurels? Only Thuan Kieu will do. The
original location, just round the corner from
Cho Ray Hospital what better dish can
you think of to uplift the spirits of injured
bodies and souls has become so ingrained
in the com tam annals of the city that there
are now nine (or is it 10?) branches around
Saigon. The secret? The softest, sweetest
tasting barbecued pork youll ever have the
pleasure to put your teeth into, a range of
super tasty pickles on the side (including
Vietnamese kim chi), and prices that while
not cheap avoid extortion. And dont forget
the bowl of canh, pork broth, on the side. A
nice palate-cleansing touch. I went to branch
number nine to see just how far down
the food chain Thuan Kieu could extend
their reach. Despite the in-your-face colour
scheme garish, its decorated in green and
yellow it was just as good as the first.
Grillbar
122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1
Price: VND95,000 for Grillbar-style suon
For the aircon version, I was going to head
to the chain, Com Tam Moc, but an online
Vietnamese reviewer had already put the
multi-store eatery in its place. Expensive
and you have to wait for ages, she wrote.
Only suitable for foreigners. Hmmm. So
instead I headed to Grillbar, a little favourite
of mine, a place that really does attract
foreigners. In the com tam stakes this place
is expensive just under VND100,000 for
the barbecued meat with rice. But then here
youre paying for quality have you tried
their Vietnamese bacon? the Ben Thanh
Market location and most importantly,
setting. The setting is New York and Londonindustrial, rolled into one. There are nice little
touches here, too. The com tam comes with
salad a departure from the typical tomato
and cucumber and hearing music over
the sound system rather than being aurally
bombarded with the rough and tumble of a
typical Saigon eatery is a pleasant change.
Old n Saucy
fashion
TUSKS
&
DUST
This months model isnt wearing someone elses inspiration shes
showcasing her own. The bronze, leather and market materials hanging
from her ears and neck and intertwined in her braids reach a natural
compromise with her own look.
The woman that I envision wearing my jewellery is a strong, independent
warrior woman, writes Amanda Wotring about TUSKS & DUST. But the
woman she shows us also finds comfort in her surroundings, and an
effortless balance with her worlds elements.
Photos and Styling by Francis Xavier

Modelling by Amanda Wotring
Designs will soon be available for sale on
facebook.com/tusks.and.dust
Head chain: VND550,000
Earrings: VND200,000
Body chain: VND350,000
travel
cambodia
Beautiful Bays A
and Haunted
Hotels
Tourism in the Mekong region has a natural emphasis
on water, but Francis Xavier discovers other highlights
in southern Cambodia
s a girl who rarely travels anywhere

especially outside of Vietnam
being invited by Mekong Tourism
to Kampot, Cambodia for the 9th
World Congress of the Most Beautiful Bays
in the World is something quite out there.
Not only was I supposed to see one of the
most beautiful bays in the world for the
first time, I was supposed to shoot it in a
way that matches its beauty. So I packed
my bags, and jumped on a Sapaco bus to
Phnom Penh at 6am with three cameras
my trusty DSLR, a small point-and-shoot
and a Holga-like toy camera and a tripod,
to make sure I wouldnt miss a thing.
Just off the bus, we met a representative
from the Cambodian Ministry of Tourism,
who hustled us onto a van heading to
Bokor Mountain, where the conference was
happening. His name was Narong, and he
said that first we had to stop at the airport
to pick up a few more people. 20 minutes
later Narong jogged back to our van, as some
others got into the vehicles in front. He subtly
pointed to one, saying, Look, the King.

We found ourselves in the escort crew
of the King which king I didnt really
know. We followed six other black vans and
SUVs, going 100km per hour down to the
mountains of southern Cambodia, sharp
turns left and right the whole three hours.
The road hugged the hill when we got close,
a guard every 200 metres. I could see the
sunlight shining on us, disappearing and
reappearing over and over. As my friend
said, Its like were chasing the sun.
The Hill Station

When we arrived at Bokor Mountain a
cool-weather colonial French hill station,
about 42km from Kampot there were
already 300 people there for the event.
Whichever king we came with got swallowed
up by a bunch of black suits as we made our

way in. We were checked into the Thansur
Bokor Highland Resort, one of the only
inhabited places in this slowly-reviving
former ghost town only a few kilometres
from beautiful Veal Rinh Bay, the body of
water on the Cambodian side of Phu Quoc.
As many people as there were for the
conference, our journalist group was only six.
This gave me good access to the important
people we were there to meet, including most
of the tourism ministers in Southeast Asia
and other powerful people in the industry.
But it wasnt nearly as revealing as taking a
walk around Bokor.
Next morning we visited the Bokor Palace
Hotel site of 2002 creepy Hollywood
thriller City of Ghosts, and maybe home to
some real ones and other abandoned
colonial buildings around the area. The

weather on the mountain was cool enough
for a light jacket day or night. The sun was
always shining, like spring weather.
Most of the buildings in the ruins were
built in the 1920s to cater to the wealthy, but
in the upheaval of the next decades they
were abandoned by the French, and then for
good in the 1970s as the Khmer Rouge took
over the area. The buildings had a haunted
look, yet were strangely beautiful. Ageblackened walls and high grass all over the
place, even though there was some furniture
that showed the buildings were still in use.
In the backyard of the hotel, on top of
the hill, I could see the entire Veal Rinh
Bay down below, then the sea and a bit
further away, partially hidden under the
clouds, Phu Quoc.
Adventure Time in Kampot

After the conference was over, I was again
knocked around the van as we navigated
the sharp turns down the mountain,
heading to nearby Kampot. This time there
werent any guards.
Kampot is a little town by the bay, filled
with French colonial architecture. Along the
bay, abandoned French villas lie untouched,
ruined urban explorers out there should
take note. Some buildings are being
renovated, as hotels or villas, keeping their
original look. These large homes fit well
with their surroundings.
We had the driver drop us off for a
walk around town, doing the adventure
time thing for a few hours. We wandered
around all these anonymous, interesting
buildings, enjoying the feeling of being
in a different era. Residents have made

use of the buildings by turning them into
the signature look of Kampot. Some have
been transformed into boutique hotels, like
The Columns (37 Phoum 1 Ouksophear);
many were turned into coffee shops, like
my favourite, Epic Arts Caf (67 Oosaupia
Muoy), which provides work and hangout
opportunities for deaf students.
We managed to visit a completely
renovated villa in nearby Kep called Villa
Romonea (Prey Thom, Kep Thmei). The
crescent-shaped villa is white with a pool
out back facing the beach. The windows on
the second floor were all opened and filled
with butterflies and other insects. As if in
perfect harmony with nature, so close even
the bugs loved it.
Property manager Stphane continued
on this theme, describing the outside of

the villa as like the skin of a dragon, which
defends it from its enemies. The back is
the belly, where all the good things are.
Its openness to the refreshing nature its
surrounded by is one of the good things
the heat and ocean breezes making you
want to sit down, have an ice-cold glass of
lemonade and enjoy this good life or feel
good about life.
During the trip I kept seeing signs and
banners around Kampot, saying, Its
paradise. At first I thought them odd, but
after getting to know this town, I started
thinking that maybe theyre right.
I came to the area for the bay, and thats
what the people at the Cambodian Ministry
of Tourism showed me. But what I found on
this trip was much more than just that.
travel
japan
The Stopover
Ed Weinberg spends three hours and VND800,000 in
Japans Narita Airport, and all he gets
is this crappy T-shirt
start off my 40-hour trans-Pacific

journey at 11.40pm from Ho Chi Minh
City. Six hours later Im in Japan. Ive
never been before, and Im excited
even if its just for three hours.
Im travelling with a friend, but I let
her head to the next gate without me. The
smiling duty-free shill catches my attention,
a handbag dangling from her perfectly
crooked elbow. Its like the mall of Japan,
which I figure is as good a place to start as
any.
Airports have their own cultures, an
airplane seatmate of mine later says, and it
strikes me as particularly true of developed
countries such as Japan, where small-timers
have a hard time breaking in. Or rather,
they boil their own culture down to we eat
this, we relax like this, we observe this type
of hygiene in our bathrooms, the biggest
contribution weve made to the world is this

as pictured on this magnet.
A Short Introduction
First off, Im disappointed by the vending
machines. Not that I expected or would
buy! dirty underwear, but I did expect to
be able to use my credit card in the coinops. There isnt even a credit card-operated
change machine, and eggs, cats and Star
Wars lasers tease me from their windows.
As I walk over the pleasing curves of
carpet pattern, Im screamed at by light and
colour, but not sound. A placid vacuum
spreads over the airports halls as people
look this way and that, transfixed.
I stop into the first store I see, and look
down the wall of 100 novelty watches. There
isnt really a point in life Id feel the need
to acquire even one of them, but Im also
not the target demo for their six different
colours of neck cushion or their seven
varieties of solar bobblehead. Underneath
the bobbleheads, the words no batteries
are written as if battery-powered is the
default state of most things.
In another store, a whole row is taken
up by breath-moistening facemasks, for a
comfortable flight. A woman explaining
sweets to me laughs after every comment
You know mochi? Hahahahaha. I take
sides in a comparison tasting of Suntory v.
Yamisaki whiskey. Yamisaki wins hands
down, now that Bill Murrays not around to
stump for its competitor.
Around the taped-up pornography in
the magazine shop, theres a No photos
please! sign. Im guessing this is a problem.
Knee socks, and less sushi than I expected.
Was I Ever There?

I pick up several boxes of glutinous cakes
in pleasing pastels somehow more
gift-motivated by these three tourist hours
here than my previously uninterrupted
11 months in Vietnam. I get my mother a
weeble-wobbling lucky cat toy. I pass on the
gel-insert breasts mouse pad.
As I make my way to the gate I catch sight
of the distant tree line, looking out of place
across the endless tarmac. But it strikes me
Ive been looking at the same products
Ive seen elsewhere in the world, and
reading symbolism into them that I wouldnt
in different contexts.
On my stopover in Chicago, I head into
the mens washroom. In one of the stalls, I
see a strange plastic cover on the toilet seat.
As I swipe my hand past the sensor, the
plastic covering rotates a full arc around the
seat, leaving me a hygienic landing.
I Facebook it with the caption Japan
Airlines!! In the comments, my friend
writes, Korean as well!
travel
Our distribution outlets. Look for the colour closest to you for a
copy of Word magazine. It's free just as all other good things in life.
Airlines
travel
Dalat
ANA MANDARA VILLAS
$$$$
Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063)
3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE
$$$$
12 Tran Phu, Dalat, Tel: (063)
382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY
$$$
Tel: 0933 446542
bhayacruises.com
Experience breathtaking
tours of the serene Halong
Bay, aboard reproduction
wooden junks. Two or three
night trips with a wide range
of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.
CUC PHUONG
$
Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh
Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006
cucphuongtourism.com
Dalat Green City Hotel

172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
Located in central Dalat,
this is the perfect place for
budget travellers. Quiet,
newly refurbished with
beautiful mountain and city
views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and
snack bar in all rooms with
a downstairs coffee shop
and computers in the lobby
for guest use.
EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES,

HALONG BAY
$$$$
Tel: (04) 3935 1888
emeraude-cruises.com
Reproductions, of 19th
century paddle steamers,
trawl around Halong Bay
in colonial style. A classic
experience, complete with,
overnight accommodations
in impeccable cabins suites.
LA FERME DU COLVERT
$$
Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh,
Tel: (0218) 385622
etoile-des-mers.com
LA VIE VU LINH
$
Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen
Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743
lavievulinh.com
Dalat Train Villa

Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 381 6365
dalattrainvilla.com
Located near the Dalat Train
Station, the Dalat Train Villa
is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.
In its grounds is a 1910
train carriage which has
been renovated into a bar
and cafe. Located within 10
minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.
MAI CHAU LODGE
$$$
Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh,
Tel: (0218) 386 8959
maichaulodge.com
NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY
$$
Ha Long Road, Bai Chay
Ward, Ha Long City, Quang
Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108
novotelhalong.com.vn
TRUNG CANG HOTEL
$
4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 2663
Around Hanoi
BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER
HOTEL
$$$
KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong
Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031)
388 0888
pearlriverhotel.vn
Tam Coc Garden Resort

Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu,
Ninh Binh, Tel: (030) 249
2118
reservation@tamcocgarden.com
tamcocgarden.com
Lying amidst the nature of
Ninh Binh, a region referred
to as Halong Bay on land,
Tam Coc Garden is a paradise of peace, serenity and
understated luxury. A pool
to a backdrop of limestone
peaks as well as elegantly
spacious rooms with fantastic rice field views guarantee

relaxation and comfort.
Hanoi - International
CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL
$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 6270 6688
crowneplazawesthanoi.com
This premier five-star
property lies beside the My
Dinh National Stadium and
Convention Centre. Boasts
two swimming pools, a spa,
and a fitness centre in its 24
stories.
DAEWOO HOTEL
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3831 5555
www.hanoi-daewoohotel.
com
This enormous structure
offers the most modern of
amenities, and with four
restaurants and two bars,
the events staff is well
equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National
Convention Center, and a
favourite of the business
traveller, Daewoo even
boasts an outdoor driving
range. Shortly to become a
Marriot property.
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI

6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3831 3333
www.fortuna.vn
This 350-room four-star set
up in the heart of Hanois financial district has a variety
of rooms on offer, a capital
lounge and three restaurants that serve Japanese,
Chinese and international
cuisine. And like youd expect, theres a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a
separate spa and treatment
facility for men and women.
Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business
deals on rooms and spaces
to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.
HOTEL DE LOPERA
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
Resting just a step away
from the Opera House, the
hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to cre-
ate a contemporary space.

The first boutique five star
in the heart of Hanoi, the
lavish, uniquely designed
107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and
are complimented by two
restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.
Air Asia
www.airasia.com
Air France
3733 0808
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and
suites, a contemporary
lobby, an excellent buffet,
and a la carte restaurant,
this Accor group property
is prestigious and close to
the Old Quarter.
130 Dong Khoi, Q1

Tel: 3825 8583
www.airfrance.com.vn
Air Mekong
1st Floor, Centre Point
Building, 106 Nguyen Van
Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: (08) 3846 3999
www.airmekong.com.vn
American Airlines
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI
WESTLAKE
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6270 8888
www.hanoi.intercontinental.
com
This stunning property built
over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.
Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable,
top-end accommodation and
all the mod-cons make up the
mix here together with the
resorts three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar,
a watering hole located on a
thoroughfare over the lake.
Great gym and health club.
SHERATON
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
www.sheraton.com/hanoi
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and
tranquil courtyards, this
peaceful property features
picturesque views of West
Lake and is less than 10
minutes from downtown.
In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers
an outdoor swimming pool
and great relaxation and
fitness facilities, including a
tennis court and spa. There
are well equipped conference rooms and a newly
refurbished Executive Club
Lounge.
MELIA HANOI
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
www.meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central
Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws
plenty of business travellers and is also a popular
venue for conferences and
wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant
restaurants, stylish bars,
fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house
guests satisfied.
MVENPICK HOTEL HANOI

83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
www.moevenpick-hanoi.
com
With its distinctive French
architecture and top end
service, Mvenpick Hotel
Hanoi is aimed squarely at
corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge
bar are available to satiate
their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range
of equipment. Massage and
sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to
rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites,
93 are non-smoking.
SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE

HANOI
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
www.sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French
colonial period is probably
still the finest in todays Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was)
anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where
the service is impeccable
and the luxurious facilities
complement the ambiance of
a bygone era. Definitely the
place to put the Comtessa up
for a night.
SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI

1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3823 8888
Boasting Hanois best views
of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake
and the Red River, Sofitel
Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.
The 5-star hotel features
317 luxurious, comfortable
guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view
ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.
Hanoi Mid-Range
6 ON SIXTEEN
PULLMAN HOTEL
$$$$
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem

www.sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to
grace Hanois Old Quarter,
194 Nguyen Thi Minh

Khai, Q3
Tel: 3933 0330
www.aa.com
Cathay Pacific
5th Floor, Centec Tower,
72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3
Tel: 3822 3203
www.cathaypacific.com/
vn
China Airlines
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Tel: 3911 1591
www.china-airlines.com
Japan Airlines
3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3821 9098
www.vn.jal.com
Jetstar Pacific
www.jetstar.com/vn
Korean Air
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3824 2878
www.koreanair.com
Lao Airlines
93 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: 3822 6990
www.laoairlines.com
Malaysia Airlines
Ground Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1
Tel: 3829 2529
www.malaysiaairlines.
com
Singapore Airlines
Saigon Tower Bulding,
Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3823 1588
www.singaporeair.com
Thai Airways
29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3822 3365
www.thaiairways.com.vn
Tiger Airways
www.tigerairways.com
Vietnam Airlines
27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
Tel: 3832 0320
www.vietnamairlines.com
Want to add more information to your listing? Get in touch and

let us see what we can do. Email us at listings@wordvietnam.com
the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with
handicrafts and antique.
Breakfast is included and in
the long, lounge restaurant
on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is
served up with fresh fruit
juices and Lavazza coffee.
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL
$$$
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928
6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the
Old Quarter, this little slice of
heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient
restaurant, serves the finest
in international and Vietnamese cuisine.
MAISON DHANOI HANOVA HOTEL
$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem
Lake, this glowing pearl in
the heart of Hanoi provides
tranquility with an art gallery
and piano bar.
Set in the old French Quarter

a short walk from the Opera
House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining
contemporary architecture
with traditional Vietnamese
style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including
four suites.
THANG LONG OPERA HOTEL

1C Tong Dan Street, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4775
www.thanglongopera.com
Hanoi Budget
HANOI BACKBACKERS HOSTEL
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 5372
www.hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town,
with bunk-style beds mixed
or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus
a couple of double suites
from VND250,000. A place
to meet like-minded fold in
the Old Quarter.
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba

Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988
DUXTON HOTEL
$$$
63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2999
saigon.duxtonhotels.com
Famous for its daylong
rotatingmenu buffets, the
Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym,
spa, and fine dining.
EQUATORIAL
$$$
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property
boasts seven dining and
entertainment outlets, a
business centre, meeting
rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.
The Equatorial also has an
on-site casino.
HCMC - International
CARAVELLE HOTEL
MAY DE VILLE
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Reports
2006 list of the worlds top
100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular
rooftop Saigon Saigon bar,
and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.
$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON
$$$$$
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 7777
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
travel
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex

offers: 14 instant offices,
seven meeting rooms, a
600-capacity ballroom, spa,
outdoor swimming pool, a
gym, 24-hour fine dining,
24-hours room service, and
limousine services.
8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Former guests include U.S.
presidents two Bushes,
Clinton and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event
as well as a hotel, New World
is one of the best luxury
stops in town.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON
PARK HYATT
$$$$$
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh
City, resides the Asiana with
signature dining options,
an innovative cocktail bar,
exclusive spa and health
club, together with luxury
boutique arcade.
$$$$$
2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in
location, everything one
would expect from the Hyatt.
The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants
have garnered an excellent
reputation, as has the landscaped pool.
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON
PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE
$$$$
2A4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture,
spacious rooms, and a fine
selection of fine dining, with
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
NEW WORLD HOTEL
$$$$
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
$$$$$
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the
site of the old Metropole,
this upscale, contemporary
property boasts 306 signature rooms combining
design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine,
a great downtown location
and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600
guests make up the mix.
REX HOTEL
$$$$
3829 2185
rexhotelvietnam.com
Brimming with history the
Rexs openair fifthfloor
bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now
five-star property, boasts
designer fashion and a shopping arcade.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the
Saigon River, a 15-minute
scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town,
Riversides complementary
shuttle services take you
right in the city centre. With
152 fully equipped serviced
apartments, the property
offers special packages for
short-term stay starting at
VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.
RIVERSIDE HOTEL
$$$$$
1819-20 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417
riversidehotelsg.com
This distinct French ar-
Josephs Hotel
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
Next to the cathedral
Free wi-fi, international breakfast,

spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,
multi-shower, friendly service
www.josephshotel.com
5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
travel
chitectural wonder offers
complimentary Wi-Fi, airport
pickup or drop off, a 4th floor
ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River
Restaurant.
SHERATON
$$$$$
88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of
the best locations in town,
with firstclass facilities,
an openair restaurant 23
floors above the city and
a live music venue on the
same floor.
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA
$$$$
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
This 20story building in
downtown Saigon, caters
to upscale business and
leisure travelers seeking a
classic yet contemporary
stay in Saigon.
Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.
is renowned for its fabulous

steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.
DUNA HOTEL
NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE
HONG HOA HOTEL
$$$
167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3822 4866
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has
a contemporary feel, an
international buffet The
Square a rooftop bar, and
a wellness centre including a
swimming pool, gym, sauna
and spa.
STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL
$$$
144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
The newly-built hotel is near
Tan Son Nhat International
Airport. With spectacular
city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming
pool, there is little reason not
to choose this shining star.
WINDSOR PLAZA
$$$
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its
own shopping hub (including
a bank), fine dining, a sauna,
health club, and superb
panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest
Oktoberfest in the region.
HCMC - Deluxe
CONTINENTAL
$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn
This charming old hotel has
been fted in literature and
in film. In the heart of Saigon,
this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.
HOTEL MAJESTIC
$$$
3829 5517
majesticsaigon.com.vn
MA MAISON BOUTIQUE HOTEL
$$$
656/52 Cach Mang Thang 8,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3846 0263
mamaison.vn
NORFOLK HOTEL
$$$
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique
business hotel is located
minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and
$
167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel:
(08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
$
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
SINH HUONG HOTEL
$
157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
Hoi An & Danang

An Bang Beach Retreat
An Bang Beach, Hoi An
www.anbangbeachretreat.
com
CUA DAI
$
18A Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:
(0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$
Son Tra Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 396 1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn
HCMC - Mid-Range FURAMA RESORT AND SPA

ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$
3822 5914
kimdohotel.com
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2
$$$
46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa
Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
THAO DIEN VILLAGE
$$
195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2222
thaodienvillage.com
A colonialstyle hotel and
spa offers fine Italian, Thai
and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view
that overlook the bank of
the Saigon River, this is truly
someplace special.
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL
$$$
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,
Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256
9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
HCMC - Budget
DUC VUONG HOTEL
$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 6992
ducvuonghotel.com
Free WiFi offered in every
room. Low prices, friendly
staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps
from the backpackers area.
$$$$
68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang,
Tel: (0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da
Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang
Resort and Spa is beachfront
with a stunning view of the
Marble Mountains. There
are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.
LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI
$$$
Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui
Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel:
(0510) 354 5105
domainedetamhai.com
LIFE RESORT HOI AN
$$$
1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An,
Tel: (0510) 391 4555
life-resorts.com
MERCURE DANANG
$$$
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379
7777
mercure-danang.com
PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$$
Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son,
Tel: (0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the white sands
of Bac My An beach close
to both Danang and Hoi An,

the welcoming and modern
Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities
and facilities for a dynamic
escape. Perfect for a family
holiday or a romantic beach
getaway.
THE NAM HAI
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL
$
48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054)
382 6736
hoangphuonghotel.com
Nha Trang
EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX
SENSES SPA
$$$$
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village,
Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394
0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive
swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant
spa on a lotus pond. Each
massive room has its own
espresso machine, pre
programmed iPod and both
indoor and outdoor showers.
$$$$
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)
352 2222
sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/
destination
2.6 hectares of private
beachside gardens and
villastyle accommodation
furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool
bar and the signature Six
Senses Spa.
VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH Resort

and Spa
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT
Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510)

392 7040
victoriahotels.asia
Hue & Lang Co

ANGSANA LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnams South
Central Coast, Angsana Lang
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encompasses the resorts contemporary buildings and chic
interiors.
BANYAN TREE LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/
lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The
Banyan Tree offers privacy
and unparalleled exclusivity
with all-pool villas reflecting
the cultural and historical
legacy of past Vietnamese
dynastic periods.
HUE BACKPACKERS HOSTEL
$$
10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue, Tel:
(054) 382 6567
hanoibackpackershostel.
com
IMPERIAL HUE
$$$
10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel:
(054) 388 2222
imperial-hotel.com.vn
LA RESIDENCE
$$$$
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383
7475
laresidencehue.com
$
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this
budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG
$$$$
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:
(058) 398 9666
mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG
$$$
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:
(058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with
154 guestrooms, all with
a terrace and sea view.
Complete with a pool, spa,
restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up
to 200 delegates.
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY Ninh

Van Bay
$$$$
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372
8222
sixsenses.com/resorts/
ninh-van-bay/destination
The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.
The location is stunning, on a
bay accessible only by boat.
SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL

AND SPA
$$$$
26 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058)
388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang
SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA
$$$
1214 Tran Phu, Nha Trang,
Tel: (058) 382 0999
sunrisenhatrang.com.vn
WHALE ISLAND RESORT
$$
Tel: (058) 384 0501
whaleislandresort.com
Phan Thiet & Mui Ne

ALLEZ BOO BEACH Resort and
Spa
$$$$
8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
374 3777
allezboo.com
This resort offers exotic
Balistyle, thatched roof
honeymoon villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms,
fresh seafood, Vietnamese
cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing
and parasailing.
BLUE OCEAN
$$$$
384 7322
life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH
$$$$
384 7111
cocobeach.net
With charming wooden
bungalows, a private beach,
a swimming pool (both with
attached bars) and a French
restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who
opened it in 1995.
MIA RESORT MUI NE
$$$
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
PRINCESS DANNAM RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh,
Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222
princessannam.com
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,
Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria
chain, the thatchedroof
bungalows and family villas
are set in exotic gardens
with an infinity swimming
pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and
jacuzzi.
VILLA ARIA MUI NE
$$$
60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham
Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 374
1660
villaariamuine.com

travel
Phong Nha
Easy Tiger and Jungle Bar
$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail.
com
A hostel and street-front bar
all in one. Has a pleasant,
airy atmosphere in the bar
and restaurant area while
the 52 dorm beds four
beds to a room go for
US$8 (VND168,000) each a
night.
Ho Khanh's Homestay
$$
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
phong-nha-homestay.com
Pepper House
$
Tel: 01678 731560
pepperhouse-homestay.com
Phong Nha Farmstay
$$
Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers joint
has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool
out back and views overlooking paddy fields and
mountains. Rooms start at
VND600,000 for a twin or
double, with a family room
for five costing VND1.4 million a night.
Phong Nha Lake Resort
$$
Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo
Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052)
367 5999
phongnhalakehouse.com
Saigon - Phong Nha
$$$
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016
sgphongnhahotel@yahoo.
com.vn
Thanh Dat
$
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7328
thanhdatphongnha.com
Phu Quoc
BEACH CLUB RESORT
$$
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island
guesthouse featuring a
beachside restaurant, and
includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and
tours are easily arranged.
Discount rates during rainy
season.
CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua
Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang,
Tel: (077) 399 5895
centarahotelsresorts.com
LA VERANDA
$$$$
Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach,
Phu Quoc, Tel: (077) 398
2988
laverandaresorts.com
MANGO BAY
$$
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An ecofriendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.
Sapa
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
$$
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203
871218
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from
its bar restaurant, the Cat
Cat Guesthouse is paradise
at very reasonable rates.
The rooms have big win-
dows, balconies, and log

fireplaces.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$
24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel:
0203 872404
topasecolodge.com
For the environmentally
conscientious, 25 individual
lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar
technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also
organises treks and bicycle
tours.
VICTORIA SAPA
$$$
Tel: 0203 871522
victoriahotels.asia
THE VILLAGE NOSHERY
42 Cau May, Sapa
www.thevillagenoshery.com
Vung Tau & Ho Tram

BINH AN VILLAGE
$$$$
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
CON DAO RESORT
$$
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con
Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064)
383 0939
condaoresort.vn
with their own pool and have

direct access to the beach.
Extras include tennis courts,
a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.
REX HOTEL
$$
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
SIX SENSES CON DAO
$$$$
Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao
The Grand-Ho Tram Strip

Phuoc Thuan Commune,
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand - Ho Tram Strip
is Vietnams first large
scale integrated resort and
ultimately will include a
1,100-room five-star hotel,
a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting
space, an exclusive VIP area,
as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.
The first 541-room tower
of this development opened
in July 2013 with its casino
including 90 live tables and
614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room
tower is on track to open in
2015.
Travel Services Hanoi

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com
www.buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at
the service of all Vietnamese
and expatriate residents
in Vietnam offering easy,
hassle-free travel around
the world and in Vietnam,
with the highest standards
of customer care. This
premium Travel Agency
has been created to help
travelers select their destinations and organize their
trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and
ensure that all journeys are
enjoyable and successful.
BTA customizes leisure and
corporate travel plans while
offering a selected range of
small group tours.
their clients close to culture

through personalised tours.
Also find travel desks at the
Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which
are open on weekends and
holidays.
HANDSPAN TRAVEL
80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 2828
www.handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers
with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular
and isolated locations in
Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable
and responsible tourism
initiatives. Also provides to
excursions to more wellworn destinations.
EXOTISSIMO
26, Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 2150
9 XuanDieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
3718 5555
www.exotissimo.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel
agency with an extensive
operational track record in
the Indochina region and
beyond. Providing up-market
services, Exotissimo brings
HG TRAVEL
47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
www.hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising
in small-group tours around
Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole
representative agent for
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa www.kenya-
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND

SPA
$$$$
Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is
the ideal getaway from Ho
Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely
bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa
and two swimming pools.
HO TRAM SANCTUARY
$$$$
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come
travel
airways.com), American
Airlines (www.aa.com) and
Turkish Airlines (www.thy.
com).
DALAT EASY RIDER

70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat
dalat-easyrider.com
EXOTISSIMO
INDOCHINA LAND
61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2852
www.indochina-land.com
Indochina Land is a French
local travel agency for
expatriates and tourists
who want to see northern
Vietnam in a personal and
tailored way. Think small
knowledgeable teams of
Vietnamese and French
who share their passion for
discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on
freedom, family, health trips
and classic home stays. They
will show you around Ha Giang, too.
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
www.intrepidtravel.com/
vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is
an international travel company operating in Vietnam
since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks
and small group adventures.
With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid
focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City,
Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong
Bay, Sapa and beyond to get
you up close to Vietnams
people, cuisine, history and
culture.
SYRENA CRUISES
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 7214
www.syrenacruises.com
If youre thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while
enjoying luxury comfort,
Syrena Cruises could be the
quencher youre looking for.
Forget drinking games and
backpackers by relaxing on
one of the two wooden boats
from the fleet. Alone, as a
couple or with a group, 34
luxurious cabins and suites
are all ready for action. All
you have to do is decide on
how long you want to holiday for.
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)

3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotissimo.com
A reliable and experienced
travel company operating
through Southeast Asia,
Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the
region, many including insights into culinary customs,
handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

(08) 3824 7744
flightravelco.com
Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel
insurance, to corporate
companies, family and individual travelers.
FLY VIETNAM
flyvietnam.com
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel:
0904 193308
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui
Ne, Tel: 0908 400108
mantasailing.org
ONE WORLD TRADING SERVICE

TOURISM Co.
28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6675 2620
oneworldvn.com
TERRAVERDE
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di,
Ward 4, Tan Binh District,
Tel: (08) 3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through
the Mekong Delta, trekking
in the highlands, or lazing in
a junk on Ha Long Bay all
while making a difference in
peoples lives then this
company will suit you well.
TU TRAVEL
Travel Services Elsewhere

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY
VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE
Promotions of the Month
FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho

City, Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3827 9170
buffalotours.com.vn
This premium travel agency
helps travelers select their
destinations and organize
their trips. From corporate
travel to small group tours,
explore the world or Vietnam.
Travel Promos
169A De Tham, Q1, Tel:

01222 993585
vietnamvespaadventure.
com
Vespa Adventure offers multiday tours of southern and
coastal Vietnam on the back
of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable
biodiesel. English-speaking
tour guides lead the way.
Dalat Edensee
dalatedensee.com
Nowhere within a day trips radius
of Ho Chi Minh City gives you quite
the going away experience that Dalat
Edensee can give, with its mountain
views and indoor luxuries. For Tet,
theyre stacking the traditions with
an ong do (old scholar with exquisite
handwriting) who will write you
ancient Vietnamese words of wisdom
to keep; mua lan, a unicorn dance; li xi,
red envelopes containing lucky money
for the first day of Tet; traditional Tet
meals; plum-wine cocktails; music and a
magic show. Get in on the traditions of
Edensee, starting at only VND5.3 million
per couple, for a two-night, three-day
stay from Jan. 29 to Feb. 9.
Boutique DHanoi
@Maison DHanoi
hanovahotel.com
Winter is coming to Hanoi, and with it
comes cozy hotel rooms with the heat
turned way up, and the occasional
warming glass of red wine. Maison
DHanoi is throwing more than just these

essentials your way this winter, with a
VND1,080,000++ room rate on a twoperson, one-night stay valid until Mar.
31, 2014. With this sturdy deal comes a
20 percent discount on spa services, a 10
percent food and beverage discount and
all the pillow fluffing you could hope for.
Beach Living
@ Laguna Lang Co
lagunalangco.com
Nestled within Laguna Lang Co stands a
fully integrated residential development
close to Banyan Tree and Angsana hotels
and spas, and the 18-hole golf course,
facilities for conventions and a plethora
of other recreational offerings. Your very
own residence start from US$350,000
(VND7.35 billion), including one and
two-bedroom beachfront locations. Only
a short distance from UNESCO World
Heritage sites Hue, Hoi An and My Son,
this lush locale of natural scenery and
pristine coastline could very well be
your front yard. For an information pack,
contact sales@lagunalangco.com.
Hanoi
overscene 126 / the promotions 131 / book buff 134 / the alchemist 136 / the
therapist 138 / a world of good 140 / student eye 142
Photo by thiep nguyen
overscene hanoi
hatch! fair
Photos by David Harris

A conference to provide networking
opportunities and assistance to local
entrepreneurs and start-ups hit
Indochina Plaza
LIPLICIOUS
Photos by David Harris

Grammy-nominated Katy Perry and
former Billboard woman of the year
was the driving force behind a raucous
night of beats, cocktails and lipstick at
Rooftop
metiseko grand
opening
Photos provided by Metiseko

Lifestyle, eco-chic brand Metiseko
officially celebrated the opening of its
store on Hang Gai with a party fit for an
eco-chic king
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordhanoi.com and we'll take a look
organic house
Photos provided by Organic House

The website, organichouse.vn, home to
natural, skin friendly products popular
in Japan, celebrated its official launch at
The Press Club
le petit christmas
Photos by Thiep Nguyen

Arts space and caf Manzi put on an artsy
alternative to Christmas with well-known
singer Le Cat Trong Ly
hanoi
OLD QUARTER
Bars & Clubs
CHEEKY QUARTER
LATE NIGHT LOCAL

1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
0904 032829
8pm to late
Last building on the right
before Hang Buom, this
popular with the French
(and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has
the same Old Quarter vibe;
small, cosy and personal
with funky twists and an
awesome logo. Spread over
two floors with good tunes,
drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till
late. Also does tasty paninis
into the early hours.
DRAGONFLY
DANCEHALL LOUNGE
15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 4926 2177
11am to late
One of the better venues in
the Old Quarter for dancing
on the weekends. Although
crammed into a small space,
cheap drinks and a mix of
chart chits makes Dragonfly
the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident
looking to get up on the
dance floor. If you dont feel
like dancing, relax upstairs
with shisha and friends with
one of the two lounges on
the second floor. The sister
venue on Phung Hung has a
bigger menu and an earlier
opening hour (11am instead
of 6pm) but still keeps with
the shisha, pool table and
dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.
FATCAT BAR
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

(04) 5333 6087
linkhanoi.com
4pm to late
Straddling Bia Hoi Corner
and the cobblestoned end
of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a
small establishment from the
minds behind the party and
event organisers, LinkHanoi.
The bar has tables filling the
first floor and spilling onto
the sidewalk as well as a
small loft area for lounging.
Nightly cocktail specials,
reasonable bottles deals
starting at VND500,000 and
a DJ on the decks make up
the mix.
FUNKY BUDDHA
ELECTRO LOUNGE

(04) 3292 7614
8pm to late
HAIR OF THE DOG
LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE

0947 893232
10am to late
HALF MAN HALF NOODLE
LATE DIVE BAR

62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3926 1943
3pm to late
IRISH WOLFHOUND
IRISH PUB
4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821
irishwolfhoundpub.com
8am to 2am
The open-air watering hole
with seating on the pavement
is a great spot to enjoy a tall
dark stout or light pilsner at
anytime, day or night. What it
lacks in gaudy decorations,
it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and
billiards on the third floor.
Has a decent food menu and
even better pizzas.
LA BOMBA LATINA
LATIN BAR
46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: 0917 245155
LE PUB
BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL
RESTOBAR
25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 2104
7am to midnight
Dark red walls and even
darker brown seating run
through the homely and
casual Le Pub, one of the few
bars in town with a regular
stream of clientele. A long
list of imported beer, Tiger
draft, a decent international
cum Vietnamese food menu,
happy hour specials and live
sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets
involved in the local community through regular events.
MAOS RED LOUNGE
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

(04) 3926 3104
POLITE PUB
LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3825 0959
5pm to 2am
A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest
pubs in the city, this staple
watering hole on Bao Khanh

continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi
has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals
and expats who find solace
in the nightly conversations
at the long bar, billiards and
live football matches.
ROCKSTORE
LIVE MUSIC BAR
01653 336087
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock
Cafe without the stigma and
the expensive prices. Nightly
live music or DJing events
are coupled with creative
decor, a selection of Belgian
Beer and a food menu.
SPY BAR
HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 2269 1107
TEMPLE BAR
NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR

Tel: (04) 6675 7908
TET BAR
LATE-NIGHT BAR
2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 3050
THE SPOT
LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE

(04) 3935 1874
8am to midnight
Cafes
CAFE PHO CO
COFFEE SHOP WITH A VIEW

Back of 11 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8153
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
COFFEE/BAKERY
222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 3388
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi
in 2009. Joma contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3825 0216
7am to 8pm
MOCA CAFE
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
(04) 3825 6334
8am to 10pm
Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly
location gives Moca a large
amount of guidebook-driven
clientele. But dont let this put
you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good
WiFi and some of the best
coffee in town makes this
a great spot to while away
a couple of hours. The food
menu mixes Vietnamese fare
with sandwiches, western
and pan-Asian mains.
PUKU
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745
Open 24 hours
This spacious spot on food
street is open around the
clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along
with more eclectic Irish
nachos, cottage pies and
pan-Asian fare. Upstairs
is fit for social gatherings
and live music while the nosmoking downstairs space
is filled with people working
and socialising. Serves as
community centre, catering
both to ravenous backpackers whove just arrived off
the night train from Sapa and
locals looking to meet up.
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
SOLE 21
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
Clothing & Accessories

BOO SKATESHOP
SKATESHOP
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 1147
Booskateshop.com
CONTRABAND
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9891
Launched in Hanoi in 2007,
Contraband targets young
hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look
after making them ideal for
work and travel. New styles
are introduced each month
with limited production runs,
offering a sense of exclusivity.
LATELIER
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

18 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem (entrance on street behind Au
Trieu), Tel: (04) 3938 2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small a cozy caf hidden
on the quietest of Hanoian
streets. Serves and delivers
tasty baguettes, homemade
juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery
service is quick and reliable,
which makes this lunchtime
favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

Tel: (04) 3938 2419
ateliervietnam.com
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem.
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital has seen
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
EUROPEAN / AMERICAN BRANDS

Tel: (04) 3938 1968
A distinctly designed boutique around the corner
from the cathedral, bringing
the latest from European
and American Designers.
Think Jimmy Choo, Kate
Spade and Top Shop. Markup seems high on some
pieces, but all designers are
authentic. No fakes here
SONG
ECO-STYLE VIETNAMESE
27 Pho Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 6965
asiasongdesign.com
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3828 6965
This shops motto Western
sizes, Vietnamese prices,
says it all. While mostly retailing womens separates
in soft cotton jersey and
linen, the store also carries a range of accessories
like embroidered canvas
totes and printed tees. Has
a good selection of unique
mens shirts.
THREE TREES
JEWELLERY
(04) 3928 8725
Crafts & Furniture

MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang
Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 2645
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
hanoi
move to the capital will see
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
19A Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
CAFE DE PARIS
FRENCH BISTRO
12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327
cafedeparis-hanoi.com
8am to 11pm
Thanks to its original tiled
floor, cast iron backed
chairs and wall-hung black
and white photography,
there is something decidedly
charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar.
Serving up a simple menu
of snacks such as quiche
Lorraine, Paris beurre and
croque monsieur, there is
also a selection of classic
but unpretentious French
mains. Has a daily specials
board and a decent range
of pizzas.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
Tel: (04) 3993 1399
10am to 10.30pm
A slither of a joint serving
up the same fare that the
lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an
international version of the
mighty curry they even
sell pork and beef here the
menu keeps to the northern
part of the subcontinent with
masala, dopiaza, korma and
the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a
good range of breads and
tandoor-cooked kebabs.
GREEN MANGO
WESTERN / VIETNAMESE
18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9916
greenmango.vn
7.30am to 11.30pm
GREEN TANGERINE
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

(04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
10am to 11pm daily
A leafy, cobblestone court-
yard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets

you as you walk into this
French era-built villa that
houses the main section of
this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing
mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine,
blended in with Vietnamese
ingredients and cooking
styles, the resultant fare
has had customers coming
back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids
menu is also available, as is a
wine list focusing mainly on
French wines.
MEDITERRANEO
PAN-ITALIAN
(04) 3826 6288
10am to 11pm
This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral
serves all the traditional
Italian fare you could need
homemade mozzarella
and fresh pasta, spinach
and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
boards, soups, salads and
fish. Throw in an extensive
wine list, a traditional wood
fire oven and a balcony spot
looking over Hanois trendy
caf scene and youre onto
a winner.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926
0639
10am to midnight
KHAZAANA
PAN-INDIAN
11 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3934 5657
khazaana.vn
LA RESTAURANT
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 8933
8am to 10pm
The complimentary warm
bread with rosemary is
reason enough to visit this
homely spot featuring hearty
lentil and black bean soups,
along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef
tenderloin or tofu with chilli
and mushrooms. We arent
quite sure why the Miele
Guide nominated it as one of
Asias finest restaurants as
service is lackadaisical and
tables could use candles to
improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately
tasty dishes more than make
up for any quips.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
(04) 3828 9052
8am to 11pm
A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed caf
and bar with an extensive
list of reliable cuisine. Tapas
are available, as well as full
courses such as veal, and
duck with currant sauce.
Known for its good, European-style coffee and firstfloor terrace area with views
over the cathedral. Has a
second garden restaurant
on Xuan Dieu.
LITTLE HANOI
21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 5333
7.30am to 11pm
MILLENIUM
PAN-FRENCH
11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10pm
Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium
restaurant is the minimal
and chic result of a Caf Des
Arts makeover. The streets
new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking
goes over two floors and
has a welcome and inviting
three-level outdoor terrace
high up amid the concrete
and cables of the Old Quarter.
NAMASTE HANOI
PAN-INDIAN
47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3935 2400
namastehanoi.com
11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10.30pm
The latest newcomer to the
Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in
dishes from both northern
and southern India using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you
between VND150,000 and
VND300,000 and everything
is there, from curries and
breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or
out with a free delivery.
OLD HANOI
GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 8337
10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm
Gordon Ramsay once filmed
a show at this restaurant in
a renovated French villa and
now the ribs carry his namesake. But its the twist on old
world favourites, think fried
snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo,
in a casually elegant setting
that make this spot near
the train tracks standout.
Be sure to try the roll-your-
own cha ca spring rolls and

check the schedule for live
traditional music.
PROVECHO
TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL

0912 223966
The successor of My Burger
My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny,
multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style,
chargrilled burgers from
around VND50,000 with a
range of additional toppings
including jalapeno peppers,
smoked bacon, mushrooms,
cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also
has a good range of Tex-Mex
fare, a number of pan-Asian
dishes and a decent delivery
service.
SOUTHGATE
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 1979
southgatehanoi.com
THE KAFE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 6245
thekafe.vn
Spacious, casual, energetic
and beautifully designed, The
KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy
the modern urban diner.
Preparing fresh food and
drinks that show respect to
natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe,
this caf-cum-restaurant is
a popular choice for Hanois
metrosexual community.
THE MOOSE AND ROO
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,
Tel:(04) 3200 1289
Contemporary Australian
and Canadian comfort food
in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.
Best known for their Scotch
egg, poutine and burgers.
Clever changing imagery on
the walls.
in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has

Asian favourites like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu
and Thai glass noodle salad,
along with some falafel and
western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will
find something to try on this
menu.
THE LOFT STOP CAF
FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES

11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
8am to 11pm
SPICE
CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT

(04) 3926 0580
TANDOOR
PAN-INDIAN
(04) 3824 5359
11am to 10.30pm
A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising
in Northern Indian cuisine.
Has an indoor and upstairs,
white tablecloth aircon
area with a more casual
dining and bar space out
front. Does excellent kebabs
served from an authentic
tandoor oven as well as the
full range of mainly North
Indian curries. Also has a
branch in Saigon and does
excellent set lunches.
ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAF
WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 7666
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams
ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of
the greatest wines from the
best wine-growing regions
on the planet. The portfolio
mixes the best of both old
and new world wines.
Hairdressers & Salons

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
Supermarkets
Big C Supermarket
222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau
Giay
Citimart Hanoi Towers

49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem
Citimart Vincom Towers
Fivimart
Fitness & Yoga

ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong
Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3923 0253
An international Yoga studio
providing classes across a
variety of levels and styles,
including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative
yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also
have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats,
books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.
CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN
(04) 3926 0580
5.30am to 10.30pm
Perhaps the only restaurant
in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesnt focus on
faux meat. Features a wide
range of juices and shakes
THE WAREHOUSE
16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3923 0253
TAMARIND
pleasantly arrayed and back

lit. Besides their selection of
new and old world wines
Helpful staff and free delivery.
Groceries & Liquor

BACCHUS CORNER
WINE RETAILER
1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 1393
Part of the Tan Khoa chain,
the largest liquor and wine
distributor in the country,
the walls here are lined with
a decent selection of wines,
191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba

Trung
210 Tran Quang Khai,

Hoan Kiem
10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh
671 Hong Hoa Tham,
Ba Dinh
71 Nguyen Chi Thanh,
Dong Da
51 Xun Dieu, Tay Ho
93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
Online shopping: www.
fivimart.com.vn
Hanoi Star Supermarket

36 Cat Linh, Dong Da
Intimex
22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan
Kiem
131-135 Hao Nam, Dong
Da
17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba
Trung
27 Huynh Thuc Khang,
Dong Da
Metro
126 Tam Trinh, Yen So,
Hoang Mai
Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue,
Tu Liem
hanoi
hoan kiem
Bars & Nightclubs
17 COWBOYS
WILD WEST THEME BAR

98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822
FUSE BAR
LOUNGE / NIGHTCLUB
11th Floor, HanoiTourist
Building, 18 Ly Thuong Kiet,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0968 385555
LA FE VERTE
FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
6282 5555
Hoteldelopera.com
7am to 2am
La Fe Verte (or the Green
Fairy) is a metaphor for the
decadence of another age,
an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The
signature bar of the Hotel de
lOpra Hanoi where, just as
in Paris at the dawn of the
20th century, the making
of an evening drink a lavish
event of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a
lounge atmosphere, great
music and ultra-contemporary interior design combine
to bring a genuine sense of
occasion to after-dark in the
capital.
MODEL CLUB
CATWALK BAR
45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung
8pm to late
PLAY GAMING LOUNGE
GAMES RESTOBAR
104 Bach Dang, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: 0906 210212
PHUC TAN
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan
Kiem
RELAX BAR
HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem
ROOFTOP
SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B
Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3946 1901
8am to midnight
Cafes
CIAO CAF
RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3934 1494
7am to 11pm
A stones throw from the
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,

this Saigonese franchise
tries its hand with a variety
of different western dishes
at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and
a steady, young Vietnamese
crowd, the establishment is
a great place to squash a
sandwich or bowl of pasta
and people watch. Oh, and
they also do coffee, too.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,
Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3825 0216
7am to 8pm
PARIS DELI
CAF / BOULANGERIE
6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269
7.30am to 11pm
Time has been good to this
airy, bistro-style caf and
patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital,
despite its prime location
prices remain reasonable
espresso-style coffees cost
around VND40,000 and
the cakes and croissants
are moreish. Also does filled
baguettes and a larger cafcum-restaurant menu. Has a
second establishment at 13
Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
TWITTER BEANS COFFEE

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760
twitterbeanscoffee.com
Cinemas
CINEMATHEQUE
ARTS CINEMA
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648
Not a movie theatre per se,
but a private film club that
charges a membership fee in
return for entrance to a wide
selection of movies, new and
old. The management has
an eclectic taste and shows
films from all over the world.
Clubs & Societies

AMERICAN CLUB
EVENT SPACE
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 1850
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE

SOCIETY (HITS)
THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com
LESPACE
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

Tel: (04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com
Eat
AL FRESCOS
23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
ANGELINA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
11.30am to 2.30pm and
6.30am to late (restaurant)
11am to 2am (bar)
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts
of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all
for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar
and an a la carte menu, with

a creative selection of fruit
caipirinhas on hand to wash
it all down. The prices arent
for anyone on a budget, but
the amount and quality of
meat is more than worth
cost.
CAF LAUTREC
MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
6282 5555
6am to 10pm
Featuring both -la-carte
and buffet dining as well
as an innovative Sunday
brunch, this namesake of the
French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a
mixture of international and
Mediterranean-style fare.
Has an extensive wine list
to match the cuisine, which
is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired
environment.
CLUB OPERA NOVEL
TOP-END VIETNAMESE
Tel: (04) 3972 8001
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
Tel: (04) 3824 7280
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully
designed space over three
floors. Already with venues
in Saigon and Bangkok, the
essence of this popular
chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay, but everything
from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to
head to El Gaucho.
JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388
alfrescogroup.com
9.30am to midnight
Then newest venture from
the team behind Jaspas
and Pepperonis is an all-day
eating and drinking lounge fit

for all occasions. It has three
floors for different vibes
lounge bar, restaurant and
boardroom but fine imported steads can be found
on each, as well as seafood
and a huge wine list. A popular venue.
LE BEAULIEU
CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15
Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3826 6919
6am to 10am, 11.30am
to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to
10.30pm
LUNO DAUTUNNO
JASPAS
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba
Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
6.30am to midnight
Recently refurbished, the
Australian-influenced Jaspas is known for its attentive
service, tasty food and large
portions. A place with something for everyone, it has
proved itself to be popular
with both the western and
Asian expat communities
who come back again and
again. The comprehensive
menu is a fusion of western
and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is
mainly New World. Also has
a spacious bar and lounge
area that stays open late for
all the live sport.
KHAZAANA
PAN-INDIAN
11 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3934 5657
khazaana.vn
LA BADIANE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3942 4509
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to
10pm. Closed Sunday night.
A white-washed, colonial
era villa replete with period
wooden shutters greets you
as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.
Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or
take to the leafy covered
terrace out back with its
walls lined with art and photography from 21st century
Hanoi. The menu here mixes
modern Gallic cuisine with a
touch of Mediterranean and
Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an
extensive wine list and an
excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.
LA PETIT TONKINOISE
ART DECO / INTERNATIONAL

58A Tran Quoc Toan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 3336
8am to 10pm
CLASSIC ITALIAN
78 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3823 7338
11am to 11pm
This old-favourite Italian
uses traditional wood ovens
to prepare some of the citys
finest pizzas, which range
from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.
Set inside a large, thoughtful
space seasoned chefs also
make fresh pastas, soups
and cheeses the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights
make it well worth a visit, as
does the large wine list and
choice of desserts.
NINETEEN 11
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang
3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm
PANE E VINO
PAN-ITALIAN
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
8am to 10.30pm
Just a stroll away from the
Hanoi Opera House and
Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart
of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves
up authentic Italian food
and has done for as long as
anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated,
oven fresh pizzas and large
variety of pasta and salad
dishes look forward to
fine food done well at this
eatery that has the feel of
Europe. Huge wine lists,
friendly staff and a loveable
owner.
PRESS CLUB
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To,
0888
hanoi-pressclub.com
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm
to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday
lunch
Wooden flooring, paneling
and bold but subtle colours
pervade this traditional but
contemporary, fine-dining
70-seater venue close to
hanoi
The Promotions
Promotions of the Month
the Opera House. Serving

up quality cuisine for over
a decade, Press Club boasts
a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine
room, a library and a vast
selection of cigars, all in an
elegant atmosphere. Does
four excellent wine pairing menus, put together
through the aid of the Press
Clubs extensive new and old
world wine list. Also hosts a
popular first-Friday-of-themonth party.
SATINE
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414
hoteldelopera.com
Groceries & Liquor

CITIMART
SUPERMARKET
Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers,
Tel: (04) 3934 2999
DA LOC
WINE RETAILER
Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3941 2789
Daloc.vn
Photo of dishes at Fortuna Hotel provided by Fortuna Hotel
Oven Dor Traditional Buffet

For the arrival of Tet, the Sheratons
popular restaurant will host
a sumptuous Tet buffet with
traditional Vietnamese food, lobster
and much more.
Tasty dishes, a cheerful
atmosphere and lucky gifts will
guarantee a pleasant way to start
2014 with your friends and family.
The buffet lunch and dinner are
offered at VND750,000++ and
VND990,000++ respectively, from
Jan. 20 to Feb. 9.
For more info call (04) 3719 9000 or
email reservations.hanoi@sheraton.com
Fortuna Hotel Hanoi

Tet and food go hand in hand
with Fortuna Hotel Hanoi offering
special a-la-carte reunions for
families, friends and business
associates. In particular its
prosperity savories, including a
lobster feast will be available from
Jan. 1.
The lobster feast includes options
like lobster miso hot pot, grilled
lobster with teriyaki sauce, baked
lobster with cheese and garlic, and
is available at May Man Chinese
Cuisine and Emperor Japanese
Restaurant on level two.
Prosperity Yu Sheng, a savoury
dish of salmon with shredded
vegetables and other various
condiments, can be enjoyed
from Jan. 16 to Feb. 2 at May
Man Chinese Cuisine, with three

different options: prosperous
(two to three diners), Bountiful
(four to six diners) and auspicious
(seven to 10 diners), priced at
VND380,000++, VND550,000++
and VND800,000++ respectively.
For more info contact Fortunes
F&B Department at (04) 3831 3333
extension 6160 or 6461 or fortuna.vn
Hotel de lOpera Hanoi

Fancy a whopping 12-course set
menu with your family and friends
to celebrate the Lunar New Year?
The guys at Satine Restaurant
offer the very thing at
VND680,000++ per menu, for two
diners. They warn, though, that
due to limited numbers call them in
advance for reservations for more
than 10 diners.
For more information, call (04) 6282
5555 ext 6421 or email h7832-fb@
accor.com
Melia Hotel Hanoi

After the passing of another tough
working week, one of the citys
top restaurants beckons you and
your family to relax and indulge
yourselves.
The hotels famed Sunday
lunch at El Patio Restaurant,
available from 11.30am to 2.30pm,
is a tempting affair. There is a
sumptuous international buffet
with a wide selection of appetizers,
a range of main courses and

desserts prepared by the propertys
chefs.
Unlimited house wine, draught
beer, sparkling wine, Sangria
cocktails and soft drinks are on
offer with the buffet. Enjoy the
lavish lunch affair as your children
enjoy kids corner or the popcorn
machine.
The Sunday buffet is priced
at VND905,000++ adult and
VND515,000++ for children under
10.
For reservations and information
call (04) 3934 3343, ext. 771, or check
out melia-hotels.com
Tet Buffet Special

The Novotel Halong Bay offers a
Vietnamese New Year Experience
from Jan. 30 to Feb. 2 from 8.30pm
to 9.30pm with an evening buffet
spectacular.
There is a variety of traditional
Vietnamese dishes available during
the holiday break in the cozy,
secluded atmosphere of the hotels
The Square Restaurant as you
celebrate the start of the Year of the
Horse.
The buffet dinner costs
VND525,000++ for adults and
VND262,500++ for children aged
from five to 15 years.
For information and reservations
click on novotelhalong.com.vn, or call
(033) 384 8108
FIVIMART
SUPERMARKET
27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
HANOI GOURMET
DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3943 1009
Hanoigourmet.com
The long-running Hanoi
Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and
artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a
look at the deli and sit down
for a light snack.
INTIMEX
VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET
22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
PANE E VINO WINE SHOP
WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
This Italian favourite with a
huge food menu also has a
huge for-retail wine list that
is 100 percent focused on
fine wines and liquors from
Italy. Owner Hoang has great
knowledge of Italian wine
and a passion to match,
which is sure to land you
with the best wine for any
occasion.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
15A Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3943 7226
WESTERN CANNED FOODS
GROCERY STORE
Tel: (04) 3934 3854
hanoi
through the door. Serving
all day long, the downstairs
space is split into the bakery
on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the
other. The homely upstairs
lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.
Simple but tasty French and
international fare is served
at meal times.
tay ho
Bars & Clubs
21 NORTH
LIVE MUSIC BAR / GALLERY

49 Lang Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel:
0946 708286
88 LOUNGE
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 8029
88group.vn
5pm to late
A wine bar with a difference,
this addition to the watering
hole scene in West Lake
mixes contemporary design,
black ceilings, subtle lighting
and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine
lists in town. Not surprisingly
it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.
Chime Bar
Level 1, Sheraton Hanoi
Hotel
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 9000
restaurant.hanoi@sheraton.com
sheraton.com/hanoi
Chime bar is the perfect
spot for a refreshing glass
of wine and a bite to eat.
Offering a wide selection
of tapas dishes in a lounge
atmosphere, this is a great
place to unwind courtesy
of the resident DJs who will
rock you into the night.
HANOI ROCK CITY
LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: 01633 166170
hanoirockcity.com
5pm to midnight
With a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an
upstairs space dedicated to
live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the
only venue in the capital
of its kind. Has weekly live
events featuring bands both
from Vietnam and overseas
established and up and
coming. Email jimihendrix@
hanoirockcity.com for more
information or check out
their page on Facebook.
HOUSE OF SON TINH
LIQUOR LOUNGE
(04) 3718 6377
sontinh.com
8am to 11.30pm
As part of the Highway 4
group, which now has its
offices in the establishments upstairs areas, this
bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish
furnishings is famed for its
luxurious rice wine liquors
and newly created cocktail
class. Does regular events
on the first floor and also
has a creative Vietnamese
food menu based on cuisine
sold at other restaurants in
the chain.
regulars drinking out front

on plastic stools. Notorious
for its mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh to order,
Tracys is most famous for
their draft beers, claiming
to serve the coldest draft
beer in Hanoi, and always
in a frosted mug. For those
missing their dose of North
American sports, they play
all day via satellite on two
plasmas.
MADAKE
BOOKWORM TOO
GRUNGY BAR / EVENTS VENUE

(04) 6276 6665
RED RIVER TEA ROOM
LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Tay Ho, Tay Ho
Monday to Friday, 2pm to
11.30pm. Weekends open
from 11am
Located on the lakeside road
just below Xuan Dieu and
close to the entrance to The
Sheraton, this quiet, casual
pub offers up a variety of
beer, wine and mixed drinks,
juice, tea, Nespresso coffee
and espresso and milkshakes, all with a nice view
of West Lake. Non-smoking
indoors, Red River
TAY TAP
MEET-UP SPOT
100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6917
4pm to late
Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar
with two beers on tap as
well as wine, cocktails and
spirits on the shelves this
newcomer venue has a grill
menu catering to the tastes
of both East and West. For
those in search of a good
old-fashioned Sloppy Joe
or grilled cheese, youll be
glad to know the kitchen is
stocked to the ceiling with
comfort foods.
TRACYS PUB AND GRILL
SPORTS BAR/GRILL
40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel:
(04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
11am to 12am
This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the
main drag of Xuan Dieu is
perpetually crowded with
Book Shops
NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS
1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay
Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
Cafes
CAFE DUY TRI
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE CAFE

43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
7am to 10pm
Finally the newest addition
to the Hanoi coffee scene
has opened a little closer to
town than the first outlet in
Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee
Bean is a multilevel, indoor/
outdoor caf overlooking
Westlake. With its LA coffee
and office feel, when you
walk in you might just forget
that youre in Westlake.
COMMUNE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
20A Duong Ven Ho, Thuy
Khue, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6684
7903
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CHAIN
Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
7am to 11pm
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
COFFEE/BAKERY
43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6071
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
SEGAFREDO
ITALIAN CAFE
(04) 3718 0212
segafredo.com.vn
7am to 11pm
Names of some of the
worlds greatest cities cover
the front wall of Segafredo,
an Italian cafe and eatery
serving up some of the best
espresso-based coffee in
town. Red and white decor,
lifestyle black and white coffee drinking images and an
open plan space make up
the mix. Besides the caffeinebased drinks, also does
granita, teas, shakes and
modern Italian fare ranging from panini and focaccia through to pizza, pasta,
salads and desserts.
TET DCOR CAF

LA GRACE
ART CAFE & GALLERY

8B/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: 0912 666736
lagrace.com.vn
7.15am to 10pm
Located on a peaceful
street named after the famous painter, To Ngoc Van,
La Grace is a destination
for those who appreciate
lifes pleasures: drinks,
food, arts and sometimes
live music. Clean, comfortable and friendly, the venue
has a nice selection of
juices and smoothies and a
Vietnamese-cum-Japanese
food menu put together using organic vegetables. Set
lunches cost VND150,000,
and the caf also has strong
WiFi as well as separate nonsmoking and smoking areas.
ORIBERRY
ETHNIC COFFEE / CAFE

(04) 6275 8669
SAINT HONORE
CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3933 2355
st.honorehn@gmail.com
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this
cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in
the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk
ART CAF & ESPRESSO BAR

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai,
Tay Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
8am to 6pm, Tuesday to
Sunday
Cloistered among the back
streets of West Lake and
sheltered from the noise of
Xuan Dieu, TET Dcor Caf is
a destination for those who
appreciate lifes pleasures:
coffee, food, art and music.
Simple and unpretentious,
the caf has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel
combined with unique and
inspiring art installations.
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam
Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938
2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small cozy caf and sandwich bar hidden away in
Nghi Tam Village. Serves
and delivers tasty baguettes,
homemade juices, quiches,
pies, muffins and cakes. The
delivery service is quick and
reliable, which makes this
lunchtime favourite ideal
for when you need to eat at
the desk.
thbc.vn
9am to 10pm
Tucked down an alleyway
just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not
just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a caf that also sells
Spanish tapas served up
with gin & tonic, if the mood
so takes you. Organising
bicycle tours, running yoga
sessions and holding music
concerts in their upstairs
cafe area, they also sell, rent
and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and
SURLY cycling equipment.
Eclectic? Not a chance!
Clothing
GEORGES FASHION BOUTIQUE
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
(04) 3718 6233
With new styles arriving in
store every second day, this
shop offers a huge range of
dresses, shirts, pants, skirts
and accessories in local and
imported fabrics. Clothes fit
all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure.
Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.
LATELIER
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

(04) 3718 6758; 21 Nha
Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2419
ateliervietnam.com
ZEDS THREADS
TAILORED / BESPOKE CLOTHING

51A To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
0947 536515
zedsthreads.com
Classical mens clothing in
expertly tailored western
sizes both off the rack and
made-to-measure. The
menswear range includes
formal and casual shirts;
khaki, linen, chino and denim trousers; Bermuda style
shorts in chino, denim and
linen; and casual light denim
jackets. Affordably priced,
all clothing is handmade under fair working conditions
from 100% natural fabrics.
For more information email
info@zedsthreads.
Cooking Classes
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE
(THBC)
CAF / TAPAS BAR
44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246
HIDDEN HANOI
COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel:
0912 254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes

are offered in these well-appointed and clean
facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide
you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.
HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS

VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE
68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976
848301
Crafts & Furniture

LA CASA
CONTEMPORARY DESIGN
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 4084
lacasavietnam.com.vn
A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot
has everything from beds and bookshelves,
to tableware and silverware. The items are
all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi
and the surrounding regions.
DA PAOLO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 6317
11am to 11pm
This airy, contemporary looking Italian
restaurant next to the famed lawn chair
and coconut caf on West Lake has all the
right ingredients to become a classic. Run
by the long time former manager of Luna
DAutunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and
other Italian delicacies. Open every day for
lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.
DALUVA
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831
daluva.com
8am until late
A popular hang-out for expats and trendy
Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West
Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual
dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist,
as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive dcor.
satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A

pan-European classical menu mixed in with
light Asian flavours is also on offer. Has an
extensive wine list.
HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL
CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD

Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm
The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood
Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both
the Northern and Southern hemispheres.
Choose from Black Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled
to perfection. Prefer Seafood no problem,
Lobster, Oysters, Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams
and Crabs are all available for your dining
pleasure, as well as an impressive array of
wines by the glass & bottle from our
J.A.F.A.

MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development non-profit quilt
shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to
patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in several locations
around the region, the shop employs women
in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.
Cycling & Bicycle Rentals

DONS TAY HO
BICYCLE RENTALS
16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
Thang Long Cycling
CYCLING SHOP
152 Yen Hoa, Tay Ho, Tel: 0986 866538
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)
CYCLING COLLECTIVE
44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718
8246
thbc.vn
Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake,
The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is a place for all
bicycle lovers! An official supplier of TREK
and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not
only sells but also rents and fixes bicycles.
To add to the eclectic, community spirit they
also organise bicycle tours, run yoga sessions, hold music concerts in their upstairs
cafe area and run a great menu of Spanish
tapas served up, if you so wish, with gin &
tonic. Quite a mix!
DONS TAY HO
CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

Dons-bistro.com
Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends
8am to late
This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian
restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald
Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well,
the main restaurant menu includes anything
from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to
gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the
likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta
served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported
oysters and has an extensive wine list.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great
service in a contemporary and thoughtfully
designed space over three floors. Already
with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top
grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and
seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a
backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle
lighting and an extensive wine list and thats
another reason to head to El Gaucho.
HALIA HANOI
Eat
AL FRESCOS
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

thehalia.com
Monday Saturday 11am to 11pm. Closed
on Sundays
A multi-floored venue with a bar area and
a refined dining space. The menu includes
Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp
INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400
7am to 11pm
One of the larger and more comfortable bars
in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are
not the cheapest, but this is made up for by
service and ambiance. They also have a full
menu featuring familiar western dishes such
as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for
large parties or dinner functions. Periodic
buffets and drink specials are also offered.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
8am to 11pm
KITCHEN
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE

hungskitchen@gmail.com
7am to 9pm
Set inside a newly renovated house with a
large courtyard, Kitchen is a great space
for eating the decent breakfasts (check out
the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled
sandwiches and the selection of international
salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes
(available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-style drinks.
R&R TAVERN
RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6295 8215
Now on its third location, this watering hole
still lives up to its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter, and of course,
some quality live rock music. Its upstairs
area is equipped with a sound system and
stage setup for weekly shows and events,
while the downstairs area houses a classic
bar that gives a finishing touch to the friendly
community environment.
RASA SINGAPURA
SINGAPORE PERANAKAN CUISINE

185 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3715 2992
rasasingapura-hanoi.com
5pm to midnight
hanoi
Book Buff
The Book Club
The month, Bookworms Truong runs down the Bookworm Book Clubs books of the year
here are 10 avid readers in the

2013 Bookworm Book Club, and
weve just discussed the best
books weve read this year. It was
too difficult for our members to reach
consensus in arranging them in order of
merit, so we went alphabetically instead.
Most of the books are recent publications,
though a couple of oldies but goodies
crept in.
Thrillers
Margaret Atwoods final book in her
dystopian trilogy, Maddadam (2013),
had most of us rushing to get real, or
downloaded, copies of the first two so
that we could get in tune with the chaos
that ensued when man tinkered with
genetic engineering and climate change.
None of us minded going back to a
World War Two setting for a grippingly
cinematic coming-of-age tale set during
the Nazis brutal siege of Leningrad. David
Beniofs City of Thieves (2008) puts young
Kolya and Lev in search of a dozen eggs
for a Soviet colonels daughters wedding.
The two forge a doomed friendship in the
lawless city, behind enemy lines.
Michelle De Krester has piled up loads
of awards with her 2013 novel, Questions of
Travel, set in civil war-torn Sri Lanka and
Australia. Its two protagonists are Laura,
who writes for a travel guide, and Ravi,
whose life has been torn asunder by the
brutal murder of his wife and child. Their
lives eventually intertwine, but a tsunami
intervenes. After concluding you question
how ethical the roles played by some
NGOs are, and shake your head at the
astonishing hoops refugees need to jump
through to find asylum in Australia.
Humanity
Baz Lurmans movie The Great Gatsby
spurred us on to a re-read of the great
American novel it was based off of, written
in 1925 by F. Scott Fitzgerald. It was good
to reacquaint ourselves with Nick, Jay and
Daisy all over again. Most of us even liked
the movie.
Our Vietnamese contingent was insistent
that we include Vietnamese author Ho
Anh Thais new short story anthology,
Nguoi Ben Nay, Troi Ben Ay. Theyve been
orally translating some of the stories about
Vietnamese expats living around the world
who still hanker for tradition. The one
about the old Scandinavian woman who
sneaks out for dog meat and shrimp sauce
whenever she returns to visit her Hanoian
relatives gave us a real taste for a print
translation.
Anyone with a penchant for totally
dysfunctional albeit wealthy families
shouldnt miss out on AM Homess 2013
Orange Prize-winning May We Be Forgiven.
Most of us hated her characters for half the
story, but in the end just didnt want to say
goodbye to them.
This years Pulitzer Prize winner, The
Orphan Masters Son by Adam Johnson, is
all about the adventures of North Korean
orphan, spy, and prisoner Pak Jun Do,
who, like all his fellow orphans, is named
after a martyr who sacrificed himself for
his country. Its a dystopian novel that
deserves to be on equal footing with Brave
New World. Its one of the biggest books of
the year.
High Concept
Everyone who loved The Poisonwood
Bible like all of us did wont be
disappointed with Barbara Kingsolvers

latest, Flight Behavior. In it, she takes on
the contentious issue of climate change
and the issues that drive denial and
belief. It revolves around the unexpected
migration and extinction of monarch
butterflies, a mistaken belief in miracles
and the crazy world of commercial
exploitation.
Hilary Mantels 2012 Man Booker Prizewinner, Bring Up The Bodies, follows the
last days of Anne Boleyn, as Henry the
Eighth is determined to have her executed
and replaced as queen by plain Jane
Seymour. It leaves you longing for the
third in the series, to find out if Thomas
Cromwell gets his deserts. Mantel is
described as the greatest English prose
writer working today.
Our final alphabetical choice is the
2009 novel The Museum of Innocence, by
Nobel Literature Prize-winner Orhan
Pamuk of Turkey. Our intrepid touristy
member, who visited Istanbul this year,
insisted we read it and told us that Pamuk
has established an actual museum there
containing all of the items mentioned in
the novel in honour of all who harbour
obsessive collecting tendencies. She
also says that once you read the novel
and visit the city, the places so vividly
described in the books 1975 scenario
come to life in vivid technicolour.
For more information on Bookworm go to
bookwormhanoi.com. Besides their original
store on Chau Long, Bookworm have a second,
smaller shop in Nghi Tam Village in the West
Lake area. Located behind the Sheraton and
in the same alley as VilaTom Coffee, it can be
found at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam,
Tay Ho
This Singapore Peranakan Restaurant

serves up authentic, Straits fusion fare emanating from Singapore, Malacca and Penang.
Boasting the mouthwatering nasi lemak as
its signature dish, all the fare here is homecooked by the owner / partner who spent
five years living and studying in Singapore.
This is tasty, home-cooked, well-priced fare
in a pleasant but tranquil setting.
SAINT HONORE
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
sainthonore.com.vn
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark browns and
cream, this bakery and French-style
bistro is best visited in the morning when that
Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk
through the door. The downstairs space is
split into the bakery on one side with a small
non-smoking dining space on the other. The
upstairs lounge area has standard tables as
well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba Trung
and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da
VIETCLIMB
CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914
143185
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a
French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with
state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that
are changed every few months. They offer
clinics, classes and childrens events. Membership and group rates are available, but
be sure to check out the three-month pass.
ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923 0253
An international Yoga studio providing
classes across a variety of levels and styles,
including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a
yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates
mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.
Groceries, Liquor & Kitchen Products

ANNAM GOURMET
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 4487
BLUEBIRD
WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT

7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
bluebirdwine.com
FIVIMART
SUPERMARKET
Second Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3719 1791
THBC SPANISH TAPAS BAR

44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718
8246
thbc.vn
Tuesday to Sunday 8am to 9.30pm. Closed
Monday
Spanish fare is available elsewhere in town,
but this is the only place where it is authentic.
Has a great selection of sandwiches, tapas
and Mediterranean salads. To top off the
menu are a range of drinks including enormous gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and Catalan-style hot chocolate.
KITCHEN ART
KITCHENWARE
kitchenart.vn
Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies,
cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen
Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and
ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in
regular demonstrations and workshops at
the Studio, or simply read and relax at the
cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the
peaceful West Lake view.
L's Place
GROCERY SHOP
Fitness & Yoga

ELITE FITNESS
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with
a retractable roof. The spacious studios and
natural light make it a welcoming place to
squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to
pay. This place is top of the range.
HANOI CLUB
COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115
thehanoiclub.com
SHIVA STUDIOS
YOGA, PILATES & DANCING

51 A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
shiva.studio.najla.ammouri@gmail.com
NATURALLY VIETNAM
ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 6674 4130
naturallyvietnam.com
Offers food and beverage produced in Vietnam with full traceability and strict food
safety controls. Meat, egg, milk, fish, veggies,
honey, jams, fruit juices, liquors, coffee, water, ice cream. Also, every Saturday from
8.30am to 12.30pm, the team convert the
store yard into the Tay Ho Weekend Market,
a cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for expats and Vietnamese.
PUNTO ITALIA
COFFEE MACHINES
puntoitalia.asia
Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines
for the workplace or home, specialising in
authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own

brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as
the original roasted mix of beans.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337
THE OASIS
ITALIAN DELI
A great place to get all kinds of imported
groceries and home-made foods. All of the
breads and pastas are made in the in-house
kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but well-chosen selection of wines and a
fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.
THE OASIS BUTCHER SHOP

BUTCHERS
18 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 3701
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer,
representing many of the greatest wines
from the best wine-growing regions on the
planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both
old and new world wines.
Medical & Dental

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic also known for
its quality emergency services. Doctors and
consultants also provide a range of services
from standard GP-style check-ups through
to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist
care.
One Dental Clinic
DENTISTS
8 Quang An, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718
6168
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3710 0555
westcoastinternational.com
The Westcoast International Dental Clinic
is composed of dental professionals who
deliver modern, high-level dental services
throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides
the highest quality technology, comfort and
after-service care to patients.
Do you think you should be

listed on these pages? If so,
simply email us on
listings@wordvietnam.com
and well see what we can
do. We cant promise but
well try our best
hanoi
The Alchemist
Your New Years Destiny
t the start of a new year people

around the globe use the
occasion to create new years
resolutions. They see this time as
a symbolic re-birthing of their hopes and
aspirations. There are numerous tips and
words of advice on how to successfully
attain your resolutions. One that makes a
lot of sense is, start small with what it is
you would like to achieve.
Some people are interested in changing
their destinies and that surely is no
small feat. In the new age and spiritually
enlightened era that were currently living
in, there is plenty of guidance on taking
charge of your destiny as well.
Destiny VS Fate
If youre looking to change your destiny,
one of the first things to establish is the
distinction between destiny and fate. Often
used interchangeably, recognising the
difference between the two may help to
avoid frustration in your attempts to affect
change.
While fate is a divinely laid out plan

that will happen to you regardless of your
actions, destiny allows you some say in
how things turn out. Another take on these
two forces regards fate as a pessimistic
outlook and destiny as a more optimistic
viewpoint that encourages taking action in
hopes of betterment.
Taking Destiny into Your Hands

There are many in Japan and Korea who
have decided to take their destiny into
their own hands, literally. Palmistry is
highly regarded in these cultures and
some people have chosen plastic surgery
to transform their palm lines in hopes of
improving their marriage, money-making,
and even job prospects.
The Chinese art of face reading is
another tool some have used to take
control of their destiny. Altering the size
and shape of your wealth palace the
bulbous end of the nose, some believe,
may increase your chances of becoming
wealthy.
By Karen Gay
Steering back towards a more spiritual

path, destiny is described as that which
we are here on earth to achieve, and we
are thus guided by an inner compass. Fate,
supposedly knocks us back on the path if
we stray too far from our true purpose.
Trust Your Heart

The key to knowing your destiny? Some
say it is by taking the time to really know
yourself and going after what truly makes
you happy; trusting and believing in your
capabilities and listening to the intuition of
your heart.
If you are an Avengers fan, you will
know that Destiny Force is a mysterious
and near-infinite power source inherent in
all of humanity.
It is up to each individual to tap into
their power and achieve their aspirations.
Happy New Year!
Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is
a holistic health practitioner practicing in
Hanoi. For information on the types of services
provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com
hanoi
Electronics
ba dinh
Bars & Nightclubs
BARBETTA
ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3734 9134
ETE BAR
FRENCH LOUNGE
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 751331
10am to midnight
A favourite among those who
roam further west of the
city centre, this multi-storey
restobar has been going
strong for more than two
years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar
guarding exactly 50 different
cocktails. For many the Ete
burger is right on the mark
as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. Its always
crowded especially during the weekends. Amiable
staff, pleasant vibes.
SUMMIT LOUNGE
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3823 8888 ext. 5314
4pm to Midnight Sunday to
Wednesday, 4pm to 2am
Thursday to Saturday
Bookshops
BOOKWORM
BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh,

Tel: (04) 2247 0602
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CHAIN
28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh
(Next to the Flag Tower) Tel:
(04) 3823 3339
7am to 11pm
MANZI
ARTS CAF & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
A stunningly designed contemporary caf and events
space that screams out the
words modern art. Housed
in a converted colonial-era
villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows
make up the mix here. Great
cuisine, too.
Clubs & Societies

GOETHE INSTITUT
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh
Tel: (04) 3734 2251
goethe.de/hanoi
setting. They also offer culinary tours.
Eat
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts
of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all
for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar
and an a la carte menu, with
a creative selection of fruit
caipirinhas on hand to wash
it all down. The prices arent
for anyone on a budget, but
the amount and quality of
meat is more than worth
cost.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3716 2959
10am to 10.30pm
Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history
that screams empathy make
this eatery one of the most
popular Indians in town. Selling an international version
of the mighty curry they
even sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the
northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza,
korma and the more Goan
vindaloo taking centre stage.
Also has a good range of
breads and tandoor-cooked
kebabs.
Cooking Classes
Cafes
CAF GOETHE
ARTS CAF
56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 3734 7395
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE
HANOI COOKING CENTRE
COOKING CENTRE
(04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a
school, retail outlet and caf,
where you can find classes
on not just Vietnamese
cooking, but international
cuisine, held in a beautiful
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3771 6372
10am to midnight
HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT

SONG THU
(04) 3942 4448
hoasuaschool.com
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
A Dong Photo Co
128 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732
Alpha Laptop
95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 4418
Fuong May Anh
THE BISTRO
FRENCH FLAIR
2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3726 4782
thebistro.com.vn
7.30am to 9pm
A modern eatery offering
western cuisine with shades
of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink
and food deals and a warm
indoor atmosphere you
know, just how the French
do it.
MATCHBOX
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3734 3098
11am to 11pm
MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE
PAN-CHINESE
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
Elegant and luxurious, May
Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.
Showcasing a selection of
authentic Chinese culinary
delights and Yum Cha at its
finest, with seven private
dining rooms this is a place
to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim
sum menus and set menus.
Reservations recommended.
MING PALACE
PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
A fine dining destination at
the Sofitel Plaza serving
Cantonese and pan-Chinese
cuisine in a sleek modern
setting with private dining
rooms. With more than 80
dim sum selections available
along with Chinese entrees,
Mings is an ideal eatery for
those hungry for higher end
Chinese fare.
Nguyen Cau
1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
DK Computer
29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel:
3772 4772
Hi-Tech USA
Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261
Pico Plaza
Kiem
Professional Computer
Care and IT Services
Fitness & Yoga

N SHAPE FITNESS
5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem

Tel: 3213 1568
MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi
Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn
No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu,

Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983
011081
Vietsad
34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 8771
Swimming Pools
Army Hotel
Hairdressers & Salons
33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan

Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896
DINH HAIR SALON
Four Seasons
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
Medical & Dental

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
On the little street directly
below Kim Ma, with all sorts
of specialists including OB/
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT.
A Medium-sized practice
with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they
are used to treating expats.
Also a 24-hour emergency
service.

simply email us on
well try our best
14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong

Da. Tel: 3537 6250
Hanoi Club
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8115
www.hanoi-club.com
Horison Fitness Center

40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3733 0808
Melia Hotel
Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343
Olympia
4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049
Sao Mai
10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 3161
Sofitel Plaza Fitness

Center
1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8888
Than Nhan
Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung,
(Inside the park)
Thang Loi Hotel

200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
hanoi
The Therapist
Douglas Holwerda,
American trained and
licensed mental health
counsellor, answers your
questions and offers
advice
Dear Douglas,
I am from England and have been living
in Vietnam for a year now. It is the
first place I have lived outside my own
country. While I am sometimes confused
and challenged by the culture I am in, I
get disgusted when I hear some of my
colleagues complain and speak critically
all the time about Vietnamese people. I
want to learn more so I can understand
how the psychology of the Vietnamese
people is so different than what I am
used to. Any ideas?
Trying not to culture clash
Dear Clashless,
I can offer some food for thought, but it
is by approaching your experience with
an open mind and listening to people and
reading books that you can sort this out.
Differences, and there are certainly
differences between how Eastern and
Western people think and behave, can
so easily become conflicts. Conflicts can
occur between people and/or can be
internal experiences. It is the need to
make sense of things that confuses us.
Our minds seek to create resolution,
when what we see or experience doesnt
fit into the schemas that we are most
familiar with. The quickest way to
resolve this internal dissonance is to
divide behaviours into good and bad,
right and wrong, smart and dumb,
and then to apply that code onto the
behaviours we see or experience. It might
be what your colleagues are doing to
find a way to resolve the inner conflict
that is inherent in being immersed in
a culture that is different to the one in

which their ideas and schemas were
developed. The problem is that they
end up carrying negative feelings and
distancing themselves from the people
whose culture they are living in.
It appears that you are trying not to
slip into a negative perspective, but still
feel confusion and the need to make sense
of it all. You may be more aware that the
way you see things is through the lens
of your own bias, the schemas that are
part of the way you grew up. These feed
your assumptions, your expectations
and ultimately influence the way you
interpret most of what you experience.
Just knowing we are biased helps to
create more space for other ways of seeing
things. Instead of seeing a behaviour
that is confusing to us as good or bad,
we can see it as different a little bit like
agreeing to disagree. From this mindset
you can learn from and appreciate the
differences of Eastern and Western
thought, and expand to include the set of
options that come from each orientation.

There are many examples of the
difference in the psychology or
orientation of Eastern and Western
peoples. As visitors living here, it
behooves us to suspend judgements
and open up to ways that are different
than our own. The acceptance of these
differences is seeing the broad ways that
the human species has emerged over
thousands of years of development. Also
realise that some of what we experience
with other people is the outcome of
self-fulfilling prophecy. When we align
ourselves with people, demonstrating
acceptance and expecting the friendliness
we bring, it is more likely that we will
get just that. Of course, the reverse is also
true.
Enjoy the time you are in Vietnam!
Douglas
Do you have a question you would like
Douglass help with? You can email him at
douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal
details will not be printed
hanoi
ELSEWHERE
Arts
WORK ROOM FOUR
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

Building E, Floor 4, 9 Tran
Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung
workrmfour@gmail.com
workrmfour.tumblr.com
A place to work. A space to
create. Somewhere to see
something new. Work Room
Four is pulling together the
threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas,
exhibitions, workshops,
artist studios, courses, contacts and events.
with a dim lit conversational

ambience. Set in a Soviet-era
building in Zone 9, engaging
contemporary artwork lines
the walls while comfy armchair seating complements
the bar area. Has a second
room used as an event space
and sometime gallery.
VUVUZELA
MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba
Trung
Cafes
CONG CAPHE
Bars & Clubs

BARBETTA REPUBLIC
ARTSY LATE-NIGHT BAR

9 Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3971 2094
Propaganda Art, Communist-era imagery and a welltempered design aesthetic
create the ambience for
this notorious yet well-loved
space in Zone 9. Drinks specials, late-night opening, DJs
and live music make up the
mix. Popular with young Vietnamese and expats alike.
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai
Ba Trung
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
CAMA ATK
MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 01262 054970
Wednesday to Saturday,
6pm to midnight
With well-poured drinks, a
foosball table, no smoking
and a midnight closing time,
CAMA ATK knows exactly
what it wants to be and
thats refreshing. The space
is a part time venue for
smaller acts and DJs. The
venue is hip, comfortable
and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable
place to pull up a stool and
take pulls in a relaxed haven.
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS
CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088
TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE
ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

Building A, Second Floor, 9
Tran Thanh Tong, Tel: (04)
6680 9124
tadioto.com
8.30am to Midnight
Alternative and nostalgic bar
Eat
ASAHI SUSHI
SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn
CAF 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342
7.30am to 9.30pm
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3796 2647
10am to midnight
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7.00am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up

market establishment lures
in its high class customers
with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.
WILD LOTUS
CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE

55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342
POTS N PANS
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204
potsnpans.vn
11.30am to late
Brought to you by a group of
former disadvantaged youth
from Hanois own KOTO, this
unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends
the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like
profiteroles with green tea
and caf fillings, a private
chefs table with a kitchen
view, and an extensive wine
list combined with modern
formal styling bring a unique
experience to Hanoi.
Medical & Dental

FRENCH HOSPITAL
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
Recreation
KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL
Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)

3772 3801
landmark72.com
ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK
ICE SKATING
Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen
Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936
469799
royalcity.com.vn
X-FACTORY LASER TAG
LASER TAG
77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai
Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106
x-factory-vn.com

simply email us on
well try our best
SWIMMING POOL
Landmark 72 Tower, Pham
KY Y
JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386
11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to
10.30pm, closed Sunday
A LA FOLIE...!
FRENCH
63 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3976 1667
alafolie63@gmail.com
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm.
Closed Monday
A cozy recently opened
space to taste fine French
food and excellent wines
without draining your wallet. Using high quality fresh
ingredients, the cuisine is
simple including anything
from a traditional omelette
or steak tartare-frites to coq
au vin or foie gras. Has two
floors and a patio.
LA VERTICALE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3944 6317
verticale-hanoi.com
11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to
9.15pm
Situated in an art-deco villa
that was once owned by
a Vietnamese mandarin,
this establishment is now
owned and run by perhaps
the most famous French chef
in the country. With modestly
priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on
the dishes, which primarily
hanoi
A World
of
Charity Begins at Home
shouldnt be surprised by how many

people regularly ask me what they
can do to help somewhere. What Im
surprised about is how hard it is to be
socially conscious.
Rather than eat that delicious, but
kinda endangered fish, do tofu instead.
Dont throw out that dead battery
find someone, somewhere to recycle it.
Motorbike three blocks for an errand? Walk
instead.
For those with stronger resolve, this is
the time of year where many take trips to
do good, catch-named voluntouring.
Someone once offered to come over here
and mentor the staff where I worked.
Thats awesome, but err, in what? She
figured, since she was retired, she had
plenty to share about being in business
so shed just, you know, take questions and
give leadership examples. And no, she
had no work experience in Vietnam.
Still others jet off to the nearest
developing country orphanage to play
with the deprived cute kids. What is the
long term benefit to random strangers
rocking up to hang out with little kids and
who then leave after an afternoon or a few
days? Too many of those orphanages

are stocked with kids who have living
relatives and are there simply because of
the desperate poverty. And you with your
irresistible candy and gum and stickers
perpetuate this. Speaking English doesnt
make you an English teacher. Knowing how
to hold a hammer doesnt mean you should
be building peoples homes.
Stay at Home
So, to assuage your socially conscious
desires I propose this year you take a
staycation for Tet.
If you are thoughtful about it, plenty of
opportunities exist to do good right here.
Contact the organisation you like and ask
them what they need (if they dont already
have a wish list posted online) or if they
have any upcoming events they need extra
hands for. If they dont have anything for
you dont get discouraged, contact someone
else. You might have to hunt around a bit
for a nonprofit that needs what you have or
want to offer.
Be creative. Donate art supplies for
children and youth. Donate your kids nonbroken, non-junk toys. Donate clothing,
Good
By Dana McNairn
but make sure its non-ragged, non-dirty,

non-underwear yup, have seen that too
many times. Furniture? Kitchen goods?
If the charity has asked for it, sure. Hold
a neighbourhood garage sale and donate
your proceeds. Make art, sell it and donate
the proceeds. Donate a day or two of your
salary. Buy the charitys merchandise.
Spread the word of their mission. Educate
yourself on the particular issues the
organisation is tackling.
Back to those teachers and builders.
That type of voluntouring takes bread out
of the mouths of real and local teachers
and builders. Donate books or bricks or
better, salary, to hire and train local men
and women in order to support the local
economy. Lead by example with your
kids and circle of friends in practising the
dignity that should always be attached to
social consciousness.
This shouldnt ever be about your
Facebook pictures with you surrounded by
faintly bewildered poor people.
Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit
social enterprise and vocational training
programme for at-risk youth. She can be
contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au
hanoi
BUSINESS
Business Groups
keychains, card holders and

menu covers.
ICHAM
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1
Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2229
icham.org
The Chamber has the main
purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and
to assist economic agents,
as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic
relations and cooperation
among entrepreneurs of
the various countries. The
Chamber will not engage in
commercial activities with
the aim of producing profits.
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2229
ccifv.org
A business group with over
240 members that supports the French business
community in Vietnam by
listening to their members
needs and expectations. Also
promotes Vietnam to French
companies and helps them in
developing their businesses
here.
EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
A confederate organisation
with strong ties to national
business associations in its
member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support
for the business interests of
European Union members in
Vietnam.
SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM

Business Center, Ground
Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B
Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: (04)
4772 0833
sbav-hanoi.org
Corporate Services
ENDO
79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3783 2085
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
Insurance
AIG
Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49
Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3936 1455
aig.com.vn
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel
Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3936 5370
Emergency: 0903 732365
Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal
lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has
been operational in Vietnam
since 1994 and offers free
advice and comparative
quotes.
International Schools
BRITISH VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BVIS)
H3-H4, Hoa Lan, Vincom
Village, Long Bien, Tel: (04)
3946 0435
bvisvietnam.com
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
International brand, Concordia, has highly performing
schools in both Hong Kong
and Shanghai at the top tier
of the educational system.
All instructors and teachers
are native English speakers
and admission applications
are accepted throughout
the year.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available for
students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is
one of the few private, international education options
in the capital. The institution
offers Cambridge IGCSE and
IB Diploma for students at
the secondary level. Located
near the Japanese Embassy.
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183

www.isvietnam.org
The International School of
Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to
Grade 12 school serving the
international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts
students of any nationality
aged 3 and up. ISV offers
an international education
experience. Highly qualified
and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century
campus with the latest in
educational technology
plus excellent resources
for learning. Class sizes are
small.
Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block

C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel:
3795 1036
www,kinderworld.net/sis
SIS provides international
education for students from
Primary up to University
Foundation Programme. A
strong curriculum combines
the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and
Vietnamese curricula, all
taught by qualified teachers.
Runs various co-curricula
activities and prepares
students for internationally
recognised qualifications:
iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE &
AS/A Level, GAC
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN
UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (UNIS)
Unit 9 10, Shophouse

CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743
0360
3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung,
7243
C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri
New Urban, Tu Liem District,
Tel: +84 4 3794 0209
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with
a foreign teacher leading the
class with the assistance of a
Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student
ratio. KinderWorld provides
pre school education for
children from 18 months to
below 6 years.
Ciputra International Village,

Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551
unishanoi.org
QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF

HANOI
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
hanoi.qsi.org
With nearly four decades of
experience in international
education, QSI International
School of Hanoi is next in the
long line of quality schools
that have been established
by the Quality Schools International. The institution
specialises in instructing
pre-school and lower elementary age students.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (SIS)
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai

Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic

Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba
G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES

HKC Building, Suite 701, 285
Doi Can, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3762 3805
ghmsglobal.com
RMIT
Hanoi Resco Building, 521
Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3726 1460
rmit.edu.vn
A leading international provider of skills training and
professional staff development, RMIT offers both short
and long-term courses,
customised courses, and
can provide for either on or
off-campus clients. Known
for its Business MBA which
is open to both Vietnamese
and overseas students.
Market Research

CIMIGO
Language Schools
APOLLO
67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3943 2051
Apollo.edu.vn
Established in 1994, Apollo
offers high-quality and costeffective English language
classes including general
English, English for teens,
English for business communication and a pronunciation
clinic. One of the countrys
leading language centres.
BRITISH COUNCIL
20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3728 1922
britishcouncil.org
The cultural arm of the British governments presence
in Vietnam, the BC offers a
variety of English language
courses business writing, corporate training and
general English in a large
learning centre close to West
Lake.
LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF
VIETNAM
Management Training
62 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

3927 3399
languagelink.edu.vn
With four schools around
Hanoi, Language Link runs
international English language courses endorsed by
Cambridge University. One of
the top language centres in
the capital.
142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel:

(04) 3518 6696
vietnam@cimigo.com
cimigolive.com
Relocation & tracking agents

ALLIED PICKFORDS
Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan
Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The international home
moving company helps
make the burden of moving
a lot easier. As the largest
home moving company in
the world, Allied Pickfords
moves over 1,000 families
in over 175 countries every
day. Available with a full
range of services domestic moves, office moves and
storage whether you are
moving within Vietnam or
across the world.
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,

JVK is currently a leader in
the field. Has offices in both
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

Suite 821, Vietnam Trade
Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong,
0805
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving,
pet transportation, relocation services including home
search, orientation, cultural
training, immigration services and records management. For more information
email info@santaferelo.
com.vn.
Serviced Apartments
ATLANTA RESIDENCES
49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 0912 239085
atlanta.com.vn
Atlanta Residences fully
serviced apartments have
been created to provide a
space where you can feel
at home. Within walking
distance from Hanois Opera
House and Hoan Kiem Lake,
this building offers a panel of
51 spacious apartments for
you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer
the luxury of a hotel mixed
with the peaceful comfort
and privacy of your home,
under one roof of course.
FRASER SUITES
(04) 3719 8877
hanoi.frasershospitality.
com
ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO
SEDONA SUITES
Inland Customs Deport Area

(ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh,
Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882
asiantigergroup.com
Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of
moving households without
disruption ti family life. They
also offer pre-move advice
regarding customs and
shipping.
No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3718 0888
sedonahotels.com.sg
JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS

(04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
SOMERSET GRAND HANOI

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3934 2342
somerset.com
Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive
facilities. 185 fully furnished
apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central
location.
hanoi
Student Eye
Sweater Weather
inter has finally arrived in

Hanoi. You might say its the
gloomiest, most miserable
time of year which is sort
of true. You rarely see the sun during the
whole three or four months, and it rains
nearly every other day. Although it never
snows here, there is still a bone-chilling
element to it.
While it certainly doesnt seem like a
pleasant time of year, for teens, its also an
exciting time filled with new clothes,
jeans, jackets and Uggs, and sometimes
even nostalgia.
With winter comes a new wind of
fashion among teens as some of us like
to call it, sweater weather! Its the time
when you get to pull all those clothes from
deep inside your wardrobe, and change the
daily shorts-and-shirt business. This time
of year, you can spot a number of different
styles among guys, from the casual jeans
and jacket, to hoodies that vary in colours,
patterns or university logos. Some of the
more fashionable types will even wear

a nice leather jacket, or a smart-looking
collared shirt under a sweater.
Unsurprisingly, the girls fashion is a
lot more flamboyant and varied. Youll
sometimes see shorts with stockings and
leggings, at other times skinny jeans. Youll
still see sneakers, maybe sometimes heels
and youll definitely see a lot more boots
and Uggs, that almost universal symbol of
winter.
Memories of Winters Past

The winter here in Hanoi is definitely not
the coldest winter. Yet sometimes, youll
still see thick bulky feather jackets, trench
coats or even gloves. It doesnt seem like
their wearers wear them to be fancy or
because they are, but because they simply
enjoy the feeling that those clothes give.
A lot of people in my school are not
Vietnamese, and they come from places
like Russia, Germany or Japan, where it
snows as much as it rains here in Hanoi.
And living in this strange, foreign country,

with its extraordinary heat and humidity,
and the roads pouring with honking
motorbikes, they often miss their homes
and winters there. So a slight chill in the air
actually makes Hanoi feel more familiar, a
lot closer to home.
They use their old clothes to show to
their friends how cold winter is back home,
and also to remember and reenact those
winters. Once in a while, they purposely
zip up their jackets all the way to the top,
bury their faces into their collars and walk
around with their hands in their pockets,
just to remember how walking on a snowy
day used to feel.
This is part of what makes winter here
such an exciting time. Though it isnt
drastically different, its a tiny bit more
like living our old lives. To us international
teens in Vietnam, winter is not only the
season of Christmas and New Year, but also
a time of remembrance and nostalgia. Tae
Jun Park
Ho Chi Minh
overscene 143 / business buff 148 / coffee cup 150 / in the frame 156 / body and
temple 160 / medical buff 162
Photo by kyle phanroy
overscene ho chi minh
DJ jazzy jeff
Photos by Yves Schiepek

DJ Jazzy Jeff brought the old-school
vibe to Lush
electric kicks
christmas
Photos by Kyle Phanroy

It was the weekend before Christmas,
and all through Broma creatures were
stirring
santarchy

Good and bad elves got together to
spread Christmas cheer and say cheers,
repping Wake Up Saigon
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordhcmc.com and we'll take a look.
fv clinic opening
Photos provided by FV Clinic

FV Saigon Clinic celebrated their lofty
new perch in the Bitexco Tower
saigon squared book

launch
Photos by Gert Nielsen

Photographer James Domingo and
designer Rick Reid celebrated the launch
of their new photo book at OBriens,
while drinking out of things cylindrical
in shape
ishcmc 20 year
anniversary
Photos provided by ISHCMC

The International School of Ho Chi Minh
City celebrated 20 years of pioneering
international education in Saigon
HCMC
BUSINESS
Accounting & Auditing
GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS
4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon
Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 0220
globaleye.com
PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS
Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796
pwc.com
SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point
Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
0938 220 255
vivianwcooper@gmail.com
TMF GROUP
Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon
Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910
2262
Tmg-group.com
Advertising & Mktg

BBDO VIETNAM
74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 6662
bbdoasia.com
COWAN STRATEGIC BRAND

DESIGN
16th Floor, Bitexco Office
Tower, 1925 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064
cowandesign.com
DENTSU VIETNAM
A graphic design studio specializing in creative design

for print media and web.
Recently established, were
a group of highly skilled, well
disciplined, professional artists, graphic designers and
web developers offering you
reliable and very affordable
design services.
AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le

Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005
Dentsu.com.vn
GREY GROUP
404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)
3929 1450
grey.com/vietnam
INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3740 6388
industrialdesignasia.com
KIKO FLAME
OIIC Building, 248-250
Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel:
0902 636950
ngonluakiko.com
phibious.com
An independent, creative
led communications company helps brands connect
and grow across Southeast
Asia. Clients include The
CocaCola Company, Asia
Pacific Breweries, Piaggio
and UPI.
PURPLE ASIA

MARKETEERS VIETNAM
FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh
Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933
3493
marketeersvietnam.com
OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower,
7274, Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821
9529
ogilvy.com
PHIBIOUS
7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia
Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933
3377
9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh

Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050
purpleasia.com
RED | BRAND BUILDERS
Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45

Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820
0169
red.vn
Long-established branding
consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team
creates and shapes unique
marketing strategies that
add impact to international
and local brands from Vietnam to Australia.
RIVER ORCHID
10th Floor HDTC Building,
36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 2538
riverorchid.com
SAATCHI & SAATCHI

26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08)
3824 1207
saatchi.com
Ranked among the top 100
global advertising agencies,
S&S has worked with over
half of the 50 bestknown
brands in the world, providing advertisement planning,
direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic
design.
TBWA\VIETNAM
4th Floor, Saigon Finance
Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315
tbwa.com.vn
Business Consulting
BDG VIETNAM
11th Floor, Capital Place, 6
Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 7858
Bdg-vietnam.com
CONCETTI
33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3911 1481
Concetti.vn
GRANT THORNTON
28th Floor, Saigon Trade
Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100
Gt.com.vn
INSPIRED IMAGE
Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu
Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
0916 352573
Inspiredimage.co.uk
PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES

4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 7305 0905
prism.com.vn
ROUSE
6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh
Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6770
iprights.com
STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911
0965
starcorpvn.com
STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884
TRACTUS ASIA LTD

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2205
tractus-asia.com
XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3402
31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
Corporate Gifts & Services

AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD
14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
8364
ambrij.com
ENDO
406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6292
2045
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses,
travel agencies and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware from polos and
hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu
covers.
Event Management
Business Groups
AMCHAM
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
3562.
amchamvietnam.com
An independent association of American and
international businesses, the objective of the
American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam
is to promote trade and investment between
the United States and Vietnam.
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach
Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
auschamvn.org
A licensed foreign business group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating
in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical
breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and
charity events.
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM

25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430
bbgv.org
CANCHAM
Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective
network of business associates together and
to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.
NORDCHAM
17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5416 0922
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM

40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3518 0045
pbgvn.com
EVECOO
Tel: 0988 297990
evecoo.vn
GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6048
galaroyale.com.vn
ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD

268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh, Tel: (08)
6299 0880
THE CATERERS
46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901
thecaterersvietnam.com.vn
Offers everything from canaps and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and
wedding catering. Combines excellent food,
event management and exclusive venues to
make any kind of event a success.
Expat Services
CHUMS HOUSE
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237
HAPPY HOUSE
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659
419916
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08)
2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around the world,
Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services
including home search, orientation, cultural
training, immigration services and records
management. Email info@santaferelo.com.
vn for info.
SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le
Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6996
swissvietnam.com
Housing & Real Estate

CBRE
12th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc
Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125
cbre.com

JONES LANG LASALLE

26th Foor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc
Thang Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968
joneslanglasalle.com.vn
Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a professional services and investment management
firm offering specialized real estate services
to clients seeking increased value by owning,
occupying and investing in real estate. As a
truly global firm, they work and collaborate
closely with their colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-inclass services, people, and systems to their
clients in Vietnam.
Their offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi
offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing,
Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory,
Research and Consulting, Investment Sales
and Acquisitions, Residential Agency,
Industrial Agency, Project and Development
Services, Property Asset Management
Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy
Services, Integrated Facilities Management.
COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM

Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25
Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665
colliersmn.com/vietnam
CREATION
International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343
Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553
CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom Center, 72 Le
Thanh Ton Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7968
cushmanwakefield.vn
EASY SAIGON
Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is a useful real
estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their
website are welcome.
KNIGHT FRANK
Suite A, level 7, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen
Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6777
knightfrank.com.vn
Founded in 1896, Knight Frank has grown to
become the worlds largest privately owned
global property agency and consultancy. In
Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential
and residential development services.
NAMHOUSE CORPORATION
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989
007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially
in District 2. Supports professional services
and aftersales.
SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9205
savills.com.vn
Savills Vietnam is a leading property service
HCMC
Business Buff
Unusual Drains on the Economy
e all see and feel the

impacts of major events on
the economy like natural
disasters or manmade
banking disasters. However, there are
also common occurrences that also drain
the real economy every year. Whether
its sick days from work or all those
delayed flights, when you consider these
events as a whole (and economists do),
they have a real effect on the underlying
economy. And while stats of this nature
are not available in Vietnam one can only
extrapolate the effects here of hangovers,
tardiness, delayed flights and traffic,
black/brown outs and much more.
Drinking
That extra drink at the bar might seem
harmless enough, however the US Center
for Disease Control and Prevention
estimates that more than US$220 billion
(VND4,620 trillion) is lost in productivity
each year due to hangovers at work. This
amounts to about $1.40 (VND29,400) per
drink sold in the US.
Power Outages
A black out that occurred in the
northeastern US in August 2003, cost
the economy between US$4.5 billion
(VND9.45 trillion) and US$8.2 billion
(VND17.2 trillion). This includes US$4.2
billion (VND8.82 trillion) in lost income to

workers and investors, US$15 to US$100
million (VND315 billion to VND2.1
trillion) in extra costs to government
agencies (e.g., due to overtime and
emergency service costs), a large portion
in costs to the affected utilities, and
between US$380 and US$940 million
(VND7.98 trillion and VND19.74 trillion)
in costs associated with lost or spoiled
commodities.
By Shane Dillon
estimated to cost US$77 billion (VND1,617

trillion) a year in lost work hours in the
US alone. In Africa, the World Bank's
Water and Sanitation Program attributed
nearly US$500 million (VND1.05 trillion)
in Africa's economic losses to not being
able to find a clean, safe place to use the
bathroom.
Watching Sport
According to research from the UK, 56

percent of respondents say they are late
to work or a meeting at least once a week.
Each late employee loses an average of
97 minutes per month which costs British
employers US$461 (VND9.68 million) per
person every year. This amounts to about
US$13.6 billion (VND285.6 trillion) a year
to the UK economy.
Yearly sporting events such as March

Madness (single-elimination Division I
college basketball tournaments performed
each spring in the United States) are
estimated by HR firm Challenger, Gray
& Christmas to costs US businesses some
US$3.8 billion (VND79.8 trillion) in worker
productivity each year. The football World
Cup (coming in June 2014) is estimated
to lose US$8.1 billion (VND170 trillion)
to Europe in lost productivity due to
watching the event.
Delayed Flights
Social Media
A common occurrence with many airlines

is delayed flights and while the frustration
cannot be quantified, it is estimated to cost
US$32.9 billion (VND691 trillion) a year in
lost productivity.
And finally social media websites

(Facebook etc.) are responsible for over
US$650 billion (VND1,365 trillion) in
wasted work hours from companies in the
US! I wonder how much reading Word at
the office costs employers in Vietnam?
Shane Dillon works in financial services and
he can be contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.
com.vn
Tardiness
Hygiene
Another common reason for the sick
day is food poisoning and this has been
HCMC
Cinemas
Showcasing the latest
Hollywood blockbusters
and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as
Megastar Media, Lotte
and Galaxy Cinema offer
the most up-to-date and
modern cinema-going
experiences in Saigon.
For those partial to more
esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and
Idecaf carry little known
Vietnamese and European
efforts.
Cinebox
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10
Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
Lotte Cinema
13th Floor, Diamond Plaza,
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 38227897
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469
Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7
Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com
Galaxy Cinema
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Tel: (08) 3920 6688
116 Nguyen Du, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 5235
246 Nguyen Hong Dao,
Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn
provider in Vietnam since

1995, providing research,
advisory services, residential sales, commercial
leasing, asset management,
retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and other
services.
Megastar Cinema
Level 5, Crescent Mall,
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My
Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5412 2222
Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A
Truong Son, Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 6297 1981
Level 5, Parkson Paragon,
3 Nguyen Luong Bang,
Phu My Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5416 0088
megastar.vn
benefits and life insurance,

the team at Tenzing has over
30 years experience providing insurance advice.
Interior Design
PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND
REMODELING
SNAP
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Caf in District 2, Snap offers a web
based real estate search
service with information on
rental properties all around
the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse
to wading into the internet
depths for their needs.
SOTHEBYS INTERNATIONAL
REALTY
Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 2000
sothebysrealty.com.vn
THE NEST
369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc
Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901
thenest-vietnam.com
Wellknown property
search and real estate
agency with a useful website
listing properties available
for rent and sale, orientated
towards expats. Website is in
English, French and Spanish.
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1
Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn
you with the best suitable

medical cover for individual,
family or company needs.
BLUE CROSS VIETNAM

8th Floor, River View Tower,
7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08)
3821 9908
inquiry@bluecross.com.vn
www.bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part
of the Pacific Cross group
of companies with over 60
years experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.
Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable
service means they are the
strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are
getting the most out of your
insurance contact them for
a free quote.
IGLOBALASSIST
Tel: 0934 874271
Iglobalassist.com
LIBERTY INSURANCE
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3812 5125
libertyinsurance.com.vn
PRUDENTIAL

Insurance
25th F, Saigon Trade Centre,

37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 1660
prudential.com.vn
BAOVIET INSURANCE
49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661
baoviet.com.vn
IF CONSULTING
IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A
Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 7362
Independent advisors that
represent top reputable
medical insurers provide
TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES

VIETNAM
Huu Nghi Building, 35 Le
Loi, Q1
ten-pac.com
An independent agency representing local and international insurance companies
in Southeast Asia. A trusted
partner for health, employee
Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren

Hawk)
Thinking about upgrading a
bathroom? Perhaps a new
colour in the living room?
Maybe even a new wood
floor? Professional Painting
and Remodeling can help
with these and many other
projects. Provide international standards of quality
as well as professional and
timely service at reasonable
rates. Call today to schedule
a free evaluation.
Language Schools
ILA VIETNAM
146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3521 8788
ilavietnam.com
A foreign-owned education
and training company that
offers a range of educational
programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes,
corporate training, teacher
training and overseas study
consultancy and placement
services.
LATELIER
33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492
latelier-anphu.com
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van,
Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670
771
vietnameselanguagegarden.com
Investment & Finance

DRAGON CAPITAL
1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo
Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
9355
dragoncapital.com
THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT

GROUP
27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0907
ethicalinvestmentgroup.
co.uk
TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623
t-wm.com
VINACAPITAL
17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower,
3821 9930
vinacapital.com
A leading investment fund
management company with
extensive experience in the
emerging Vietnam market.
Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which
is a US$839 million investment fund.
VLS SAIGON
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging
from basic conversational
Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and
advanced levels, as well as
special courses including
Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival
crash course.
VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE

TRAINING & TRANSLATION
37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6678 0914
vnccentre.com
VUS
189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800
vus-etsc.edu.vn
Legal Services
ALLENS
Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29
Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
1717
vietnamlaws.com
BAKER & MCKENZIE

12th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3829 5585
bakermckenzie.com
FRASERS LAW COMPANY

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The
Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733
frasersvn.com
GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8599
gide.com
INDOCHINE COUNSEL
Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam
Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 9640
indochinecounsel.com
MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3822 8860
mayerbrownjsm.com
Management Training
EMBERS ASIA
80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728
embers-asia.com
ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288
erci.edu.vn
G&H
6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919
ghmsglobal.com
A 100 percent foreigninvested company focusing on
management services and
consulting with inhouse
programmes to meet the
particular requirements of
its clients. Offers teambuilding and academicbased
business and management
programmes.
XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
HCMC
Coffee Cup
84 City
he Le Thanh Ton/Hai Ba Trung

area in the heart of District 1 has
some of the best restaurants in Ho
Chi Minh City. Its already known
as Saigons unofficial Little Tokyo
and popular international eateries like
4Ps, Le Jardin and Le Bouchon also call
these streets home.
If you walk down Le Thanh Ton from
Ton Duc Thang and make your first
right onto Chu Manh Trinh, though, the
vibe changes. As you leave the sushi
restaurants behind you, street vendors
start lining the sidewalks, selling dried
goods, fruits, vegetables and open-air
meat and seafood. Men and women sit on
plastic chairs, drinking tra da and eating
com tam. And in an alley at the end of the
road, sitting between small shack houses,
there is a hip little coffee shop. This is 84
City.
84 City opened in June 2012, and when
we say its hip, what we really mean is
hip hop. The caf was opened by the
owners of 84 Production, brother/sister
team Vietmax and Ai My. Vietmax is a
street dancer, and walking into the caf
you can see his love for hip hop culture.
The walls of 84 City are decorated
with big paintings of brightly-coloured
graffiti art, with different hues of grey,
blue, and red looping and swirling amid
the furniture. Vietmax and artist Dan
Nguyen did the art together, and both
specialise in street art.
Beyond the Street Art

Walk into 84 City, and usually its
pretty empty. This allows for plenty of
seating options, though, including two
comfortable red couches. The music that
they play is a mix between R&B, hip hop,
pop, and acoustic remixes of popular
songs.
Coffee at 84 City starts at VND29,000
for Vietnamese coffee, and goes up to
VND45,000 for cappuccinos and espressos.
Tea starts at VND35,000 a pot, and other
speciality drinks, like milk shakes and
fresh fruit juice, range from VND40,000 to
VND45,000. If youre having an especially
rough day you can also opt for shooters or
classic cocktails (think margaritas, Jger
bombs and screwdrivers) for VND70,000
each. They also sell some food, including
sushi, springs rolls, noodles with veggies,
and braised pork with sticky rice.
Besides food and drinks, 84 City also
sells lifestyle, through clothes and other
merchandise. Their main focus is on local
street wear brands, like Peace United, a
clothing label homegrown in Vietnam. In

the future, they plan on expanding their
sales to include merchandise with a more
traditional Vietnamese style.
So if youre looking to find out how
Vietnamese coffee and street culture can
collide, head to 84 City. If you hear Rihanna
when you walk in, you know youre in the
right place. Margaret Smith
84 City is at Hem 36 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1.
For more info, head to facebook.com/84city
Market Research
CIMIGO
9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3822 7727
cimigo.vn
An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific
region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge
management, developing marketing plans
and business models and assessing market
opportunities.
INDOCHINA RESEARCH
3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 6965
indochinaresearch.com
MEKONG RESEARCH
91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
6258 6314
mekongresearch.com
NIELSEN
CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen

Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088
vn.nielsen.com
TNS VIETNAM
58 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 6631
Tnsvietnam.vn
With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS
Vietnam offers all three major market research services customisation, access
panels and media monitoring to a range
of local and international clients.
Photography Services
DRAGON IMAGES
Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel:
01643 172 660
dragonimages.asia
Dragon Images production studio is a professional team of photographers, stylists.
shooting administrators, casting managers
and retouchers. They make photos on various topics, from business to sport.
Public Relations
MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS
Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3838 5517
matterhorncommunications.com
Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms
operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and
issues management and training.
VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 0462
veropr.com
Recruitment & HR
ADECCO VIETNAM
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430
adecco.com.vn
Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in
HCMC
Kids Classes & Sports
2011, Adecco offers a wide

array of global workforce
solutions and specialises in
finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.
HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

1st Floor, Thien Son Building,
5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com
ALLIED PICKFORDS
3823 3454
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices
in over 45 countries, Allied
Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also
provides tailored relocation
services.
Serviced Apartments
CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT
656 Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587
camlyapartment@hcm.
vnn.vn
lifestyle with the amenities

of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from
downtown by high-speed
boat shuttle.
SEDONA SUITES
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9666
sedonahotels.com.sg
DANCENTER
53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,
funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
this modern dance studio.
HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER

37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Inspirato.edu.vn
KIDS CLUB SAIGON

79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel:
0908 460267
kidsclubsaigon.com
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON

19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids
in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and
saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a
mixture of private and group classes.
PIANO CLASSES
SHERWOOD RESIDENCE
DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES
G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM

CO., LTD.
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur,
District 1, HCMC.
Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th
Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba
Dinh District, Hanoi.
www.vieclambank.com
info@vieclambank.com
VieclamBank is a brand of
G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a
Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established
in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting
executive and senior level,
providing Vietnamese and
Japanese candidates with
experience studying abroad
or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and
competitive service suitable
for many types of business.

8th Floor, Resco Building,

94-96 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3911 0950
manpower.com.vn
NAVIGOS GROUP
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3925 5000
navigosgroup.com
SAIGON MOVEMENT
OPUS VIETNAM
SAIGON SEAL TEAM
5th Floor Vitic Building. 6B

Nguyen Thanh Y, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 8209
opusasia.net
55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
VIETNAMWORKS.COM
SAIGON PONY CLUB
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,

Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360

Saigonponyclub.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to
16 years and private lessons for children and adults.
Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
TAE KWON DO
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
VINSPACE
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower,

9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12,
District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3
826 7799
www.asiantigers-mobility.
com
Asian Tigers is one of the
largest regional move management specialists, with
services including door-todoor moving, housing and
school searches, local and
office moves and pet relocations.
CROWN RELOCATIONS
2nd Floor Coteccons Office
Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien
Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3840 4237
crownrelo.com
CITYVIEW
12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3822 1111
cityview.com.vn

MANPOWER VIETNAM
Tel: 01225 636682

morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
Tel: 0987 027 722

saigonmovement@gmail.com
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY
No 01 Street No.104-BTT,
Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,
Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08)
3742 5678
enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury
Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from
two to four-bedroom units
with spectacular panoramic
views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite
bathrooms, separate work
and living areas, a balcony,
modern amenities, elegant
furnishings and carefully
chosen trimmings.
Relocation Agents
AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM)

5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices
globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.
JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is a leader in the field.
LOGICAL MOVES VIETNAM

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international,
local, domestic and office moves for household
goods and personal effects
through our global partner
network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not
have documentation.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON RESIDENCES
Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon youll
find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The
residences offer panoramic
views of the downtown area.
NORFOLK MANSION
1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished
accommodation with attentive and discreet service.
Facilities include an outdoor
swimming pool, a gym, sauna
and steam room, as well as
two on-site restaurants.
127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)

3823 2288
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a
luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime
location, comfort and class,
with fivestar facilities and
service.
SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C
Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
Somerset Chancellor Court,
Somerset Ho Chi Minh City
and Somerset Vista Ho Chi
Minh City serviced residences combine the space
and privacy of an apartment with the services of a
top-rated hotel. They come
with separate living and
dining areas, as well as a
fully equipped kitchen where
guests can prepare a meal
for themselves, their family
and friends.
THE LANDMARK
5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2098
thelandmarkvietnam.com
65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a
comprehensive health club
for tenants and members,
a squash court and a 16th
floor swimming pool.
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo,

Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850
seal.com.vn


(08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank
hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
DOWNTOWN
Bars & Clubs
2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 1234
International dcor blends
seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces
with a wide-ranging drink
menu and hip dance tunes to
create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.
APOCALYPSE NOW
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
BEER REPUBLIC
MODERN BEER HALL

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel:
0945 858034
facebook.com/BeerRepublic
BLANCHYS TASH
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
0909 028293
Blanchystash.com
BOOTLEG DJ CAF
MINIMALIST CAF BAR

9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907
609202.
bootlegsaigon.com
Reminiscent of a New York
or London underground
watering hole, this is a great
place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts,
lunch by day and a variety of
DJ sets by night.
BOUDOIR LOUNGE
HOTEL LOUNGE BAR

Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

BROMA
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP
3823 6838
Bromas medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the
citys weirdest and coolest
events/random moments.
A sophisticated cocktail
menu and quite possibly the
best lamb burger in town.
Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.
CARMEN
LIVE MUSIC / BAR

8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 7699
CUNHOUSE
LOUNGE BAR
Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
Tel: 0908 033982
DRUNKEN DUCK
EXPAT / SPORTS BAR

58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3915 2853
Subtle lighting, a pleasant
ambience, a pool table and
darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel
of a drinking man's pub. A
place to have fun, drink beer
or spirits and get in with the
party mood. Known for its 15
shooter challenge.
FUSE
TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP

3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
0919 206461
fuse.vn
Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le

Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595
hardrockcafe.vn
ICE BLUE
EXPAT BAR
3822 2644
Expats keep returning to
this smoky dive bar, largely
due to its amicable service,
brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart
games. A mainstay in the
local darts league.
LA HABANA
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and
restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and
Cuban cuisine, as well as a
few German favourites such
as curry wurst and Weiner
schnitzel. Nightly live music
and regular salsa classes.
LA FENETRE SOLEIL
FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

3824 5994
A seductive watering whole
in a great corner location
thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese
fusion cuisine, imported
beer, classic cocktails, and
entertaining music events /
DJ sets.
GAME ON
SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel:
(08) 6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com
HARD ROCK CAFE
LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR
LAST CALL
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 3122
lastcallsaigon.com
If youre in need of dense,
soulful atmosphere and

maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from
wherever, Last Call is your
stop and fast becoming
that of the similarly inclined.
Great happy hour deals for
early evening starters.
Le Rendez-Vous de Saigon
FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR

9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 0396
lerendezvousdesaigon.com
With such a meaningful
name - the meeting point
- this wine bistro boasts a
relaxed, friendly ambience,
perfect for unwinding with
an after work drink or to
enjoy time with friends.
Reasonably priced, has a
sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive
old and new world wine list.
LEVEL 23 WINE BAR
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

Level 23, Sheraton Saigon
Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT
LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB

Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
bar with classic pub dcor

is widely appreciated for its
excellent international fare,
large whiskey selection and
upstairs pool table. Great
pizzas. And for a real treat,
check out their zesty rolls.
PACHARAN
SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6024
pacharansaigon.com
Legs of Iberian ham hang
from the ceiling in the
downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything
Spanish. Regular first-floor
live music and excellent eats
makes it a mainstay for the
wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.
PHATTYS
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed
Caf Latin, Phattys has
become the go-to, Aussie
beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international
cricket to Aussie rules and
serving an array of pub grub
favourites.
LUSH
SAIGON SAIGON
OBRIENS
STORM P
PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM
3824 2496
lush.vn
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports
HOTEL MUSIC BAR

9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 1923 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4738
Stormp.vn
VASCOS
MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR

The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
2888
Vascosgroup.com
A veteran fixture of Saigons
nightlife scene, Vascos offers a softly lit downstairs
patio, and an upstairs Blue
Room chill out lounge area
with regular live music.
VELVET
DANCE/HIP HOP
26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2262
velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.
com
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this
a great drinking and dining
venue
VINO
WINE BAR / TAPAS

The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299
1315
1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6281 9059
vinovietnam.com
This downtown wine shops
terrace is a popular after
work drinking spot, where
one can select from 10 wines
by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent
tapas menu. Alternatively,
HCMC
buy from the great selection
of wines in the shop and pay
a small corkage.
VINYL BAR
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907
890623
vinylbarsaigon.com
A small but popular bar with
all the shenanigans of the
nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and
80s tunes. Has a darts area
out back and is a popular
space for watching the live
English Premier League.
WINE BAR 38

3829 3968
With a huge selection of
self-imported wines from
Bordeaux, this classy but
contemporary venue is a
wine bar downstairs, and a
lounge on the first floor. Has
a French-Asian menu paired
to all the wines, with a huge
selection of the good stuff
sold by the glass.
WINE EMBASSY

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 7827
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving
30 wines by the glass, all
at reasonable prices. Has
an excellent food menu to
complement the old and new
world wines.
XU
CAF / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 8468
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket down-
town bar is known for its

cocktails and wine list. It
serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly
decorated interior. Regular
DJ nights.
ZANZBAR
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 7375
Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting,
international tapas and a
laid-back, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the offering at the all-new ZanZBar
on the river end of Dong Khoi.
Popular with a businessy, international crowd.
Cafes & Ice-Cream

AU PARC
EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2772
Auparcsaigon.com
Set in a shophouse-style
building, Au Parc offers a
chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean
food complemented with
good coffee and excellent
desserts.
BACH DANG
ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE

26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2707
BASKIN ROBBINS
ICE CREAM PARLOUR

1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
7308 3131
baskinrobbins.vn
CASBAH
MIDDLE EASTERN
59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 5130
This secluded Middle East-
ern coffeehouse has both

cozy indoor and rooftop
seating to admire views of
the city. With such a prime
downtown location, expect
prices to match.
80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3915 3704
saigongivral.com
CENTRO
HAGEN-DAZS
ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE

11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3827 5946
Conveniently located near
the Caravelle Hotel, this
casual cafe serves one of
the best lattes in town with
a mid-range Italian menu
including panini and other
typical fare.
COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL
Metropolitan Building, 235
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508
7285
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
CREPERIE AND CAF
FRENCH
3829 9117
Known for its fantastic
street-side seating opposite
the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out
caf will impress you with its
location as much as its food.
GOODY

(08) 3829 9339

6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066
KITA COFFEE
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 6799
Kitas colonial-era building
and bistro-style decor will
have you thinking youve
been transported to the
streets of Europe. Pair your
experience with an espresso-based Italian coffee from
their Mediterranean-based
menu. Excellent sandwiches
and salads.
LUSINE
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B
Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
0703
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor
compliments the spacious,
whitewashed contemporary
interior of LUsine. A simple,
creative menu combines
with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and
art gallery out back. Second
location on Le Loi.
FANNY

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 1633
fanny.com.vn
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL
THE PRINT ROOM
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
3823 4990
Second-storey coffeehouse
offers a quiet atmosphere
to chill out or read from

their book-nook collection.
Comfortable couch seating,
open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
TRUNG NGUYEN
INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE
80 Dong Khoi, Q1
trungnguyen.com.vn
ZEST BISTRO & CAF
INTERNATIONAL
5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)
3911 5599
This two-storey building with
a mezzanine level boasts an
industrial style complex with
block walls, steel structures
and huge glass windows.
The mid-range menu offers
over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

ANUPA ECO LUXE
LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2394
anupa.net
Monday to Sunday, 9am to
8pm
This centrally located unique
boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique
which exclusively retails
the complete Anupa leather
and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other
unique eco brands such as
bamboo eyewear, pendant
scarves and cushion covers.
DEBENHAMS
ADULT & CHILDRENS WEAR

Vincom Center, 70-72 Le
Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
7592
GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN
DESIGN & JEWELLERY

6291 8162
galleryvivekkevin.com
9.30am to 8pm
This retail-cum-gallery
space specialises in contemporary and exclusive
handcrafted jewellery made
from handpicked gemstones
and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run
every month.
GEISHA & GEISHAS COFFEE AND

TEA HOUSE
CASUAL & EVENING WEAR

3829 4004
Contemporary ranges of
casual and evening wear
fused with Asian designs.
The apparel includes floral
dresses, jean skirts, printed
tees and street-style bags.
Enjoy a cup of coffee at their
caf after.
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
8755
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
IPA-NIMA
BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
9am to 9pm
LUSINE
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and
sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/caf.
Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and
a range of vintage bicycles.
MANDARINA
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org
TAILOR-MADE SHOES
171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267
NGUYEN FRERES
MR & MRS SMITH
NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY
FACTORY OUTLET
43 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8019
9am to 9pm
This designer fashion outlet sells a variety
of clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam.
All designs are brand new, delivered from
the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet
prices.
EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS
83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9079; 42 Le
Loi, Q1. (08) 3824 7456
ninhkhuong.vn
SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

69 Dong Khoi, Q1
MEKONG QUILTS
SONG
ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1; 75
Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4088
asiasongdesign.com
T&V TAILOR
TAILORS
39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556
triciaandverona.com
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang,
Q1
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits
and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding
gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks,
DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and
more. Rental scooters and bikes available.
Cooking Classes
SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC
74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine
with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour
lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben
Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients
for the class.
VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel:
(08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-class-saigon.com
Crafts & Furniture

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
4201
bellavitafurniture.com
BOCONCEPT
DANISH FURNITURE
68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6604; The
Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 7357
boconcept.vn
DIABOLO
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1803
9am to 8pm
EM EM
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459
8am to 8pm
SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm
HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 6115
www.nhaxinh.com
THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE
BAHDJA
87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763
1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com
Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel,
Bahdja is Saigons first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber
North African and Mediterranean cuisine
cooked and served in a traditional Algerian
style. Best experienced in a group, this small
but pleasant restaurants soothing ambience
is matched by the owners genuine hospitality
and complimented by an array of tasty tajines
and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to
try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.
BARBECUE GARDEN
VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE
135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
3340
barbecuegarden.com
BASILICO
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn
Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du
and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099
BEIRUT
Eat
A Taste of
Authenticity
LEBANESE
The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2188
3T QUAN NUONG
VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08)
3821 1631
AL FRESCOS
INTERNATIONAL
27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of one of Vietnams
most successful restaurant chains, Al
Frescos offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match.
Excellent delivery service.
ASHOKA
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372
33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177
ashokaindianrestaurant.com
Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy
curries and Chinese-Indian fare.
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAF
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European caf fare
think deli-style sandwiches, salads and
mezzes, plus coffees and juices served at
a popular park-side Le Duan location with
classic cream and green-tiled dcor.
36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward,

District 2, HCMC
Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888
Email: info@pendolasco.vn
Delivery service available daily,
from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC

Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181
Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn
Monday to Friday:
11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00
Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00
www.pendolasco.vn
HCMC
In The Frame
Portraits of a Lost Dynasty
he Nguyen rulers
strenuously sought to make
Neo-Confucianism the
foundation of the national
culture. Under the Nguyen, traditional
Vietnamese culture assumed its final
form, the one that would persist into
the twentieth century to interact with
Western influences.
Neil Jamieson in Understanding
Vietnam
The Nguyen dynasty shares its surname
with about 40 percent of Vietnamese
people, yet the Nguyen royals seem too
far gone to have been around until 1945.
Vietnams last dynasty is the subject matter
of Tran Minh Tams paintings on show
at Craig Thomas Gallery. The glowing
portraits of a lost dynasty are mostly of
emperors and empresses, but include
mandarins, unknown court entertainers
and servants. Decorative patterns or
symbolic landscapes fan around the
centrally positioned, hieratic imperial
leaders.
General Le Van Duyet performs a
majestic horse jump over southern rice

fields. The delicately framed but powerful
man, said to be born a hermaphrodite, is
painted on a bed. I like beds because we
sleep in them, the painter says, smiling.
So many people slept there, too, and they
told stories to their kids.
The strength of the artworks is the
support. Instead of canvas, Tam paints
these portraits on old furniture. In Saigon
old things are thrown away, she says, not
needing to explain the drive to modernise
and beautify that now rules this land. The
way they toss old stuff outside mirrors the
way they have forgotten history.
The old tabletops, cabinets, doors and
screens were dismissed as obsolete and
abandoned. Some of the furniture could
be as old as the Nguyen dynasty, Tam
says, hopefully. Once restored and painted,
the wooden pieces shine with beauty like
the ancient capital of Hue in its former
glory.
A History in Lacquer and Oil

Some years ago, the artist started reading
history online and in secondhand books, to

research the Nguyen dynasty. Tam believes
that the history books he read at school did
not provide faithful accounts of the past.
The pre-1975 versions tell a different story.
Tam wants his artworks to incite a
curiosity about history. The easy access to
the Internet, compared to the difficulty of
accessing some books in public libraries, is
a great learning tool, he finds.
The portraits are painted mostly with
traditional Vietnamese lacquer, used in
ancient times to prevent wooden objects
from rotting. Some details, especially the
fresh faces, are rendered in oil paint, an
artistic medium introduced to Vietnam by
the French during the Nguyen dynasty.
The artworks in House of Nguyen are
suggestive of the mysteries of the past.
Ponder over the unknown origin of the
discarded furniture, or the untold histories
of the long-gone monarchs. Cristina
Nualart
House of Nguyen ends Jan. 3, at Craig
Thomas Gallery, 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Ho
Chi Minh City
BIBI@ALIBI
5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257
The legendary chef Bibis newest creation, a
convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean
cuisine using fresh products bought early
morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the
famous tarte tatin.
BLACK CAT
AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055
blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails,
mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular twostorey eatery close to the river.
BLANCHY STREET
JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8793
The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito,
the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine
at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and
most unusual in the city. All complemented
by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy
terrace out front.
BOMBAY INDIAN
ELBOW ROOM
AMERICAN
52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking USstyle diner ranges from meatball baguettes
to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken
salads and a selection of more expensive
international mains.
EL GAUCHO
5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an
Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage,
skewers, burger dishes and everything that
can come off a grill.
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and
creamy and the curries are both authentic
and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the
best Indian in town. Very friendly service.
GOLDEN ELEPHANT
CLASSIC THAI
34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554
saigonssk@vnn.vn
BROTZEIT
GOURMETS DELIGHT
Bun Cha Ha Noi
BUN CHA
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1
CENTRAL PARC BANH MI

7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549
Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule,
New York-themed sandwich shop does
creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices
think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels.
Excellent delivery service.
CIAO BELLA
NEW YORK-ITALIAN
11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering
a range of tasty and affordable antipasti,
pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic
bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film
legends make for a relaxed and attractive
setting.
CORSO
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing
range of US and Australian steaks plus great
grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decentsized steaks start at VND390,000.
DRAGON NOODLE
JAPANESE NOODLES
29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008
INTERNATIONAL FUSION
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good
and creative. Excellent service, an attractive
outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu.
Check out their pepper steaks.
KABIN
CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 815 Ton Duc
Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine
in an elegant, classic setting, with striking
dcor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to
VND900,000.
GANESH
INDIAN MALAY
57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114
GERMAN / RESTOBAR
Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 4206
brotzeit.co/kumholink
JASPAS WINE & GRILL
ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE

Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181
gourmetsdelight.com.vn
GRILLBAR
AIRCON STREETFOOD
122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7901
facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe
Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to it a range of grilled dishes,
typical of the barbecue fare youd find on
the street, and then add in three types of rice
and a range of organic products. Close to Ben
Thanh Market, this is com binh dan
HOA TUC
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1676
Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn
rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken
in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101
HOGS BREATH CAF
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai
Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar
atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers
regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy
hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.
INAHO
SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326
KOH THAI
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4423
Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai
classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and
more. Koh Thais creative cocktails merge
Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and
herbs.
LE BANH MI
12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1036
LOLIVIER
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with
its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and
ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant
has quarterly Michelin star promotions and
an award winning pastry team.
LA CUISINE
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant
bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu,
backed up with an extensive wine list.
LA HOSTARIA
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080
lahostaria.com
This downtown hideaway with rusticstyle
decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello dantico.
Also specializes in excellent wood-fired
pizzas.
LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON
CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION

40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263
lebouchondesaigon.com
A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic
staples such as French onion soup, escargot,
and moules marinires, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world
wines.
HCMC
LE JARDIN
CLASSIC FRENCH
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8465
Unpretentious but tasty
French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French
cultural centre. The robust,
bistro-style cuisine is very
well-priced, and excellent,
cheap house wine is served
by the carafe.
LUCCA
TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN
88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3691
A contemporary trattoria in
the heart of Saigon, serving
home-cooked Italian cuisine with New York flair in a
beautifully designed space
with high ceilings. The menu
features both traditional antipasti and substantial main
courses.
LUONG SON
PAN-VIETNAMESE
3825 1330
MARKET 39
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai
Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 9999
MOGAMBO
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
1311
mogambo@saigonnet.vn
NAM GIAO
HUE CUISINE
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1,
Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116
Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 9996
namgiao.com
NHA HANG NGON
VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD

3827 7131
NINETEEN
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
OSAKA RAMEN
JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04,
Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7
OPERA
Ground Floor, Park Hyatt
Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
Unpretentious, casual but
elegant restaurant with a
triedandtested Italian
menu backed up by a compact wine list from regions
like Umbria, Toscana and
Veneto. Regular specials and
impressive open kitchens.
PACHARAN
SPANISH / EUROPEAN
97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6924
Legs of Iberian ham hang in
the downstairs bar at this
multi-story bodega serving
Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm
reds, yellows and oranges,
Pacharans food menu is
traditionally Spanish.
PASHA
TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL
25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 3677
pasha.com.vn
Sumptuous, Turkish-themed
restaurant close to the
mosque with Islamic-style
white dome dcor and comfortable, cushioned seating.
Authentically Turkish cuisine
with a sprinkling of western
fare thrown in.
PENDOLASCO
PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Opening out into a large,
leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style
Italian restaurant serves up
quality homemade pasta,
risotto, gnocchi, excellent
pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.
PIZZA 4PS
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated
Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet
delicious pies such as tuna
curry pizza and calamari
seaweed pizza, as well as
more traditional varieties.
QUAN BUI 2
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 1515
With its leafy roof garden
and chic interior, Quan Bui
offers a wide selection of
Vietnamese cuisine which is
cooked in their open kitchen.
REFINERY
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades
this popular French-style
bistro and wine bar which
once housed the citys
opium refinery. The cuisine
runs from creative salads
through to Mediterranean
influenced mains.
REFLECTIONS
INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING

3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19
Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4999
RIVERSIDE CAF
Renaissance Riverside,
815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 0033
Offers versatile allday dining of international quality,
with the bonus of being able
to watch the action on the
river sidewalk. Features
western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.
SAIGON CAF
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
THE BURGER CORNER
INTERNATIONAL
3821 0094
TOKYO BBQ
JAPANESE BARBECUE
15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2527
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this
a great drinking and dining
venue
SEOUL HOUSE
KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4297
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT
PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21
Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes
and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong
Kong, Shang Palace has nine
private dining rooms and a
main dining area seating
over 300. Good for events.
SKEWERS
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious
Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging
from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki,
a range of dips, mousaka,
osso buco and lamb chop
skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.
TANDOOR

(08) 3930 4839
Tandoorvietnam.com
TEMPLE CLUB
PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon,
the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one
of the citys best-preserved
buildings. Serving quality
Vietnamese and Indochine
cuisine at reasonable prices.
WARDA
MIDDLE-EASTERN
71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3822
info@wardavn.com
The deep colours, Arabic dcor and cushioned outdoor
terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.
The food is good, too, taking
in tabouleh, houmous, falafel
and mutabbal, shwarmas
and more. Sells authentic
shisha.
YAMANEKO
JAPANESE / OKINAWA
(08) 3823 8433
yamanekovn.com
Funky Yamaneko down an
alley off Le Thanh Ton offers delicious, unpretentious
Okinawan fare alongside
mainland staples. Does a
great set lunch deal.
YU CHU
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 3520 9999
Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles,
fresh dim sum and hot wok
dishes within an impeccably
designed open kitchen, as
diners look on. Stylish and
spectacular.
Fitness, Dance & Yoga

ANUPA YOGA
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2394
anupa.net/yoga-anupa
CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE
FITNESS CENTRE
Queen Ann Building, 2830
32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
5999
Cfyc.com.vn
NUTRIFORT
GENERAL FITNESS
2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8560
nutrifort.com
Offers fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. There is also a
spa and a restaurant serving
caloriecalibrated meals.
RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH

CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033
SAIGON FITNESS CO.
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
SHERATON FITNESS
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

3824 1555
PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3181
07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 3166
phuongmaigallery.com
Groceries, Liquor & Wine

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

(08) 3822 9332
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from
the likes of Fauchon. The
deli upstairs in the Hai Ba
Trung branch serves tasty
baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free
WiFi, and offers probably
the best selection of cheese
and cured meats in town.
Free delivery for Districts 1,
2 and 3.
BACCHUS CORNER
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext. 176
In addition to the squash
court, facilities include a
fullyequipped gym room, a
rooftop swimming pool and
separate male and female
saunas.
WINE SHOP
158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 3306
bacchuscorner.com
A range of spirits, whiskies
and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over
the world with an especially
good selection from France,
Chile and South Africa. Also
has an excellent range of
single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an onsite
wine tasting machine, the
Enomatic, the first of its kind
in Vietnam.
DALOC
THE LANDMARK CLUB
Galleries
BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART
GALLERY
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 3695
bluespacearts.com
DOGMA
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese
propaganda art and a collection put together over the
last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the
majority of the work comes
from the war period when
provocative poster art was
used to inspire and motivate.
Sells prints of the originals
and related products.
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS

MUSEUM
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 4441
baotangmythuattphcm.vn

WINE SHOP
74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 5404 3575
daloc.vn
KIM HAI BUTCHERS
BUTCHERS
73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 4376
kimhai.vn
PHUONG HA
GROCERS
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 1318
RED APRON
WINE SHOP
22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 0021
THAI HA
GROCERS
60 Ham Nghi, Q1
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE SHOP
(08) 3825 8826
One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition
to their excellent range of
wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.
HCMC
HCMC
Body
here are always a lot of articles

out at this time of year talking
about resolutions and achieving
great things in the New Year. Is it
just because its a new year essentially
a day after yesterday, which just happens
to show a new number on the calendar? Or
is it because people actually want change?
What we find is people who succeed
in making change do so when they are
ready to. A new year might give you that
little motivational opportunity of starting
fresh, but on its own its not enough. To
be successful you must want that change.
You need to be sick of your current state
of health, energy levels, performance or
appearance which lights a fire in your
belly to finally make you do something
about it. People who make New Years
resolutions without that fire or passion will
fall by the way side.
Real Talk
Gym memberships go through a boom
period between January to March, with
thousands of people signing up. But three
months later, half no longer use their
memberships if they did at all. The
fact that only approximately 10 percent of
people actually achieve their goals over a
12-month period says something about how
we set goals and go about achieving them.
Ask yourself, Will I be in the 10 percent
who succeed or the 90 percent who fail?
People can want change but not be
ready to make the so-called sacrifice to
achieve their wants. To lead a healthier,
happier and more energetic life, the socalled sacrifices are far outweighed by
and
Temple
A New Year: A New You?
the benefits. Yes, you will have to give up

the sugar and chemically-ladened fizzy
drinks, processed foods and junk foods
that cause you to feel lethargic, depressed,
mentally clouded and just down-right
toxic. But it will be a struggle, because these
beverages and foods are so sugar-filled and
chemically-loaded that if you consume them
regularly you will be addicted to them.
If you think that addiction is too strong
a word then just wait and see what happens
when you take them away! Youll get energy
swings, mood swings, headaches, acne,
youll feel stressed, tired and more than a
little jittery while your body attempts to
eradicate the toxins from your system. We
are an intelligent species who have been
brainwashed, lied to and fed crap by the
food industry in the name of profit.
The first step to change and better health
is to choose to do something about it. The
simple fact is if you choose to change the
way you eat you will automatically change
the way you feel.
So, the question remains why do so
many people fail? I believe it comes down
to whether the right questions are being
asked, and answered, when setting these
resolutions or goals. It is best to ask yourself
questions rather than make statements, as
questions provoke the subconscious mind.
Subconscious pictures are quite often what
hold people back from achieving their
goals. How you see yourself is also related
to the habits you possess and what you
deem appropriate behaviour.
The Right Questions

Start your 2014 health and fitness goals by
By Phil Kelly
asking the following questions:

1) Is this what I really want? Is this what
I am really passionate about?
2) Am I ready for change?
3) Can I commit to this?
4) How will I feel in my new, improved
body?
Tips for Success

If your goal gives you real passion then
you must plan not just plan your
actions but plan methods of motivation,
inspiration and support. Here are five tips
to put into action that will exponentially
increase your chances of health and fitness
success.
1) Focus on six to 12-week time periods
2) Treat yourself at the end of each cycle.
Create a reward system. Do not reward
yourself with food you are not a dog!
3) Remind yourself of your goals /
targets every day. Ask yourself questions
about how will you feel when you succeed
or what new things youll do when you
succeed
4) Inspiration. Choose a role model,
stick inspirational photos and quotes to the
fridge, bathroom and workplace walls
5) Support. Hang out with people who
have succeeded, who are determined to
succeed or who are willing to help you
succeed
2014 could be the year you achieve your
desires. But first, be sure you put some real
thought into it and plan accordingly.
Phil is founder and master trainer at Body
Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763
or at his website, bodyexpertsystems.com, or
through Star Fitness, starfitnesssaigon.com
HCMC
VEGGYS
GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8526
VINIFERA
WINE SHOP
7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0860
viniferavn.com
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP
(08) 6299 1315
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines.
Also offers regular popular
wine courses. The outdoor
terrace area is the perfect
spot to sample a new vintage.
Hairdressers
VENUS
41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3829 6298
Medical & Dental

ACCADENT
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3827 6999
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic
offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to
treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and
facial care team. The clinic
utilises the latest therapies.
WESTCOAST INTL DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL
CLINIC
Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6999
The Practice, Level 1, 71-79
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
6777
westcoastinternational.com
An international dental clinic
equipped with the latest
technology, the comfortable
clinics offer cosmetic and
implant dentistry with a focus on making each patients
experience anxiety and pain
free.
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.
FV SAIGON CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6290 6167
fvhospital.com
Stateoftheart medical
centre located in District
1. Experienced American,
French, and Vietnamese
doctors provide the full
spectrum health care. Plus
sports medicine, cosmetic
treatments, skin care and
surgical consultations.
45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
Sparelated salon with a
good reputation for quality
and comfort offers washes
and leisurely haircuts from
VND330,000 plus a range of
related services including
massage and some excellent treatments.
MEKONG BLISS SPA

112, Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
6299 0563
10am to 10pm (last booking
9.30pm)

Q SPA & SALON

31Q Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3905 4609
Qspaandsalon.com
An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with
wooden floors, flowers and
flowing drapes makes this
an excellent atmosphere in
which to enjoy a massage.
Also offers hair styling and
facials.
ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY
CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI)
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic
provides general practice
and a range of specialties
including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and
traditional medicine.
JASMINE
Salons & Spas

AQUA DAY SPA
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
aquadayspasaigon.com
FAME NAILS SALON
23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1

Specialising in all forms of
skincare, this is welldesigned, ambient and outfitted
day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and
foot treatments.
SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND

HEALTH CLUB
3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909

682 827
famenails.com
3rd Floor, InterContinental

Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3520 9999
GLOW SPA
THANH SANCTUARY
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3823 8368
glowsaigon.com
Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages
lasting from 30 minutes, to
two-hour hot stone therapy,
includes one suite with a
Jacuzzi bath; offers hand
and foot care and a hair
styling area.
INDOCHINE SPA
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a
peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic
scents and lulling melodies.
Customers are pampered
by qualified therapists using
natural French products in
a clean and pleasant environment.
Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822

0885
THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL

CLUB
22nd floor, Sailing Tower,
111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
2220 2600
spa1960.vn
THE SPA
Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu
Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3514 9007
Saigon Centre, 3M Floor,
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
1800
thespavietnam.com
THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
XUAN SPA
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
1234
hyattpure.com

HCMC
Medical Buff
Is Natural Immunity Better Than Vaccination?
any people fear or are

suspicious of vaccinations for a
number of reasons and prefer to
believe that natural immunity
is better. Dr. Brian McNaull, medical
director of Family Medical Practice
in Hanoi, discusses this question by
explaining the possible effects of natural
immunity and to provide guidance on
recommended vaccinations.
Vaccination rates among children
are falling in some developed countries
because of the fear of potential vaccine side
effects. However, people who prefer not
to have vaccinations must remember that
many major and lethal infectious illnesses
have been reduced significantly (polio) or
eradicated (smallpox) because of vaccination.
The Effects of Natural Immunity

Its true that a natural infection often
provides more complete immunity than a
series of vaccinations but theres a price
to pay for natural immunity. For example:
A natural varicella (chicken pox)
infection could lead to pneumonia
A natural polio infection could cause
permanent paralysis
A natural mumps infection could lead
to deafness
A natural measles infection will

result in one in 10 developing middle ear
infection, one in 20 developing pneumonia,
and the disease has an overall mortality
rate of three per 1,000. Around the world in
developing countries there are 450 deaths a
day from measles.
A natural influenza infection has a
mortality of approximately one in 200.
Vaccination can help prevent these
diseases and their potentially serious
complications.
Vaccines For Adults: Which Do You

Need?
Youre not a kid anymore, so you dont
have to worry about shots, right? Wrong.
Vaccination should be an ongoing
process throughout our lives. These are
recommendations from the US Center for
Disease Control and Prevention.
From 19 to 26:
Varicella (chicken pox) if not
previously vaccinated or immune
Human papillomavirus (HPV) if
not previously vaccinated
Meningococcal vaccine for firstyear college students living in residence
halls, if vaccine wasnt given on or after
age 16
From 19 to 59:
Measles-mumps-rubella (MMR) if
not previously vaccinated or immune
Age 60 and Older:
Zoster if not previously vaccinated
Age 65 and Older:
Pneumococcal
Your Whole Life Long:
Influenza once a year
Tetanus, diphtheria and acellular
pertussis (Tdap) if not previously
vaccinated, plus additional dose during
pregnancy
Tetanus-diphtheria toxoids (Td)
booster every 10 years
Vietnam-specific:
Rabies
Hepatitis A and B
Typhoid
Japanese Encephalitis if spending
significant time in rural areas
Cholera if there is indication of an
outbreak
For more advice regarding vaccinations or
any other medical topics visit Family Medical
Practice on 298I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, or
on (04) 3843 0748 and vietnammedicalpractice.
com. FMPs downtown Ho Chi Minh Citys
branch is at Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 7848
HCMC
PHAM NGU LAO

Bakeries
CRUMBS
BAKERY
117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 1992
crumbs.com.vn
Dubbed the local bakery,
Crumbs serves up a variety
of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and
garlicbased buns and loafs,
meatfilled pastries, sweet
pastries, healthconscious
breads and more. There is
also a breakfast menu and
variety of sandwiches available.
TOUS LES JOURS
KOREAN BAKERY
(08) 3914 4350
Bars & Clubs

BIA TUOI 33
BIA HOI
33 Bui Vien, Q1
BREAD & BUTTER
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT
FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8452
With a free book exchange,
and tasty Sunday night
roasts, the tiny Bread &
Butter is a perfect place for
homesick expats and beer
enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served
here exclusively in Ho Chi
Minh City).
GO2
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 9575
GODMOTHER BAR
RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE /
WESTERN
3832 4589
godmothersaigon.com
Only a couple blocks from
the bru-haha of Bui Vien,
Godmothers is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent
mojitos, good food, and the
weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJs.
LE PUB
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
Tel: (08) 3837 7679
Warm colors, artsy dcor
and a friendly ambiance
combine to create a perfect
setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese

cuisine. Check out their daily
drink specials and Tuesday
night pub quizzes.
LONG PHI
FRENCH / RESTOBAR
3837 2704
French-run but universally
appealing, Long Phi has been
serving the backpacker area
with excellent cuisine and
occasional live music since
1990. Excellent late-night
bistro cuisine.
SEVENTEEN SALOON
THEMED MUSIC BAR

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
Wild West-themed bar
doubles as a music venue,
where three talented Filipino
bands (B&U, Wild West and
Most Wanted) play covers of
rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2
and Guns n Roses. Top shelf
spirits and friendly, hostess
style table service are the
name game here.
SPOTTED COW
INTERNATIONAL / SPORT
3920 7670
Alfrescosgroup.com
Spotted Cow delivers the
fun-loving atmosphere that
its playfully decorated black
and white spotted interior
promises, as well as decent
international comfort food,
a range of happy hours, live
sports, and darts.
THE OBSERVATORY
BAR, ART & MUSIC SPACE

Cnr. Le Lai and Ton That
Tung, Q1, Tel: 0906 359440
theobservatory-hcmc.com
The Observatory is DJ Hibiya Line's new youth culture
hub, just off Pham Ngo Lao.
With its two-floor, nook-andcranny setup, it combines
caf culture, cocktails, art,
DJ nights now the home
base for the Optimist Club
live music and various "happenings", sprinkling them
throughout its cozy corners.
THI CAF
LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE

224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2929
T&R TAVERN
DIVE BAR
57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 9839
UNIVERSAL BAR
LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR

90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633
343933
universalbarsaigon.com
Cafes
BOBBY BREWERS
INTERNATIONAL
3920 4090
bobbybrewers.com
Choose from a full range
of caf beverages and a
fast-food style menu as you
watch the latest Hollywood
hits in their upstairs lounge.
Check website for movie locations and schedule.
CHICCO DICAFF CAF
CONTEMPORARY CAF BAR

213 Bui Vien, Pham Ngu Lao,
Q1, Tel: 0902 514757
An up and coming hole-inthe-wall cafe, Chicco Dicaff
serves an extensive menu
of coffee, ice blended drinks,
lattes and Italian sodas at
affordable prices. Delivery
available.
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
MARATHON
BUDGET CLOTHING
3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019
PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
papaya-tshirt.com
ORANGE
BUDGET CLOTHING
3820 2620
9am to 10pm
RAZ GARNETT
STREETWEAR & ACCESSORIES

210 008
9am to 10.30pm
U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:
0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com
Crafts & Furniture

INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347
coffeebean.com.vn
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu

BAM SKATE SHOP
SKATEWEAR / STREET
641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BLUE DRAGON
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2084
8am to 10.30pm
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 9780
popular motorbike rental

service.
CORIANDER
THAI / VIETNAMESE
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837
1311
LA CANTINA
TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
MARGHERITA

3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian
does the full range of fare
from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka
masala, kormas, kebabs and
fiery vindaloos.
STELLAR CAFE
ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE
119-121 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3836 9220
Two-storey Stella serves
very reasonable Italian food
antipasti, pasta, pizza,
insalata plus meats and fish
at reasonable prices. Also
has Wi-Fi, cool aircon, and
one of the best lattes around.
Now no-smoking indoors.
THE HUNGRY PIG
BACON BAR / CAFE

3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and
more bacon, all set in airy,
spacious atmosphere, and
you get The Hungry Pig, an
eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty
through to the bacon Caesar.
A popular hangout.
TIN NGHIA
VEGAN
(08) 3821 2538
One of the citys oldest eateries (established in 1925)
does some of the cheapest
and tastiest vegan cuisine in
town, all cooked up without
onions, garlic or MSG.
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable caf is a rarity
in the backpacker area for
its genuinely good musical
playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked
potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)

3836 8019
galeriequynh.com
In addition to working with
artists based in Vietnam,
Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from
around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports
education through talks, lectures and publications.
Tattoo Artists
With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over
the past few years there
has been an increase in
the number of tattoo studios around the city.
Customers have the
choice of picking their
own tattoo out of the
many look books on offer
in the studios or bringing
in their own design. Most
of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.
Pricing depends on size
and style.
Lac Viet Tattoo 608

Dien Bien Phu, Q10
Tel: (08) 3830 4668
106 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: (08) 3821 7068
lacviettattoo.com
Saigon Body Art

135 Cong Quynh, Q1
Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com
Saigon Ink
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1
Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com
Saigon Tattoo
31B Nguyen Du, Q1
saigontattoo.net
Saigon Tattoo Group

ZOOM CAF
CHIS CAF
GALERIE QUYNH
ITALIAN / TEX-MEX
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
Eat
BABAS KITCHEN
Galleries
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures.
com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a caf
and restaurant by day and
a sidewalk drinking joint
by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.
81 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn
Tattoo Saigon
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1
Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com
Tattoo Tam Bi
209 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat.com
HCMC
DISTRICT 1
Bars & Clubs
Ahoy Beer Club
CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL

79 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, Tel:
0919 584884
info@ahoybeerclub.vn
ANH DUCS
QUAN NHAU
18A/31/B22 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, Q1
Beer and Grill (BG Saigon)

37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1,
Tel: 0906 780081
CHILL SKYBAR
rary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu

DECIBEL
INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense,
this two-floor, relaxed caf
offers beautiful decor and
unique original events like
live music, film screenings,
and art exhibits. Great prices
and food with daily specials.
LOUNGE RESTOBAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
Chills view has only been
improved by the addition of
a magnificent VIP terrace.
A substantial wine list and
specialities from the owners
native Denmark complement
the primarily French-influenced cuisine.
GIVRAL CAF
HOA VIEN
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben
Thanh Market, i.d offers
casual caf dining with a
wide variety of food and
beverages. Where modern
design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.
CZECH BREWHOUSE
28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 8605
hoavien.vn
MOB Beer Club

Tel: (08) 7307 7779
INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH
97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3844 3295
saigongivral.com
KEM NHAN
ICE CREAM PARLOUR

4 Truong Han Sieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6674 6763
I.D. CAF
MZ CLUB
LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB

56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 5258
m-zing.com
Shooters Beer House

31 Le Quy Don, Q1
Vuvuzela

11 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3910 2281
Cafes
CAF ME
CASUAL CAFE
8A Luong Huu Khanh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3926 2828
Cafeme.biz
LAN MIEN DINING CAFE
76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
2718
The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of
this popular, contemporary
caf. Enjoy live music on
weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese
or espresso-based coffee.
LE PETIT CAF
FRENCH
112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6291 2067

BAM SKATE SHOP
INTERNATIONAL
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3833 3648
coffeebean.com.vn
caf chain. The contempo-
SKATEWEAR / STREET
15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q1, Tel: 0903 641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BOO
STREETWEAR
134 Nguyen Trai, Q1
boo.vn
BOSSINI
UNISEX CASUAL WEAR

22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3839 2292
Bossini.com
CHILDRENS PLANET
CHILDRENS CLOTHING
90 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08)
3820 9881
childrenplanet.com.vn
DBLANC
WOMENS CLOTHING
89A Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 5164
d-blanc.com
GAYA CLOTHING
HAND-MADE / DESIGNER
Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van
Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925
1495
Gayavietnam.com
Clothing is designed and
tailor-made by renowned
designer Romyda Keth, and
concentrates mainly on
womens wear. Gaya sells
colourful, sexy evening
dresses, embroidered floral
skirts and cute chiffon tops.
MARIPOSA
BOUTIQUE LADIES WEAR

3925 9993
mariposa.vn
THUY NGA DESIGN
BUSINESSWEAR / CASUAL
19-21 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3820 3574
thuyngadesign.com
8am to 8pm
Cooking Classes
OVERLAND CLUB
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm
The Overland Club organises
pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
monthly special activities,
such as the Soba Festival,
pottery painting classes, the
art of decorating paper and
multinational cuisine days.
Crafts & Furniture

GAYA
CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 1495
gayavietnam.com
Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II
buildings in the city, Gaya has
a reputation for chic and so-
phisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps

and tableware, with all products both constructed and
designed locally. You can
find a wide range of mirrors
and lacquerware with bowls,
vases and contemporary
Asian-style boxes as well as
a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all
colours and designs. Prices
here match the quality of the
products.
LION CITY
VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN
MAY RESTAURANT
DECO / REPRO FURNITURE

152 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925
3648
verlimdesign.com

Eat
Banh Tam Bi To Chau
BANH TAM / HUE CUISINE

271 Nguyen Trai, Q1
SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery,
plating up the likes of nasi
lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well
as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish
head curry.
INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE
3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08)
3910 1277
May-cloud.com
Meaning Cloud, May utilises homemade recipes
and broths developed by the
restaurateurs father, such
as pan-fried duck breast
served with nuoc mam and
ginger, and 1940s style
spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in
an Indochine atmosphere.
BANH XEO 46A
BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE

46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 1110
CAF IF
VIETNAMESE FRENCH
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3846 9853
MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a
French twist, cooked fresh
to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and
beef stew, stir fries, hot pots
and curries.
Chi Thong
BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI

195 Co Giang, Q1
COM TAM THUAN KIEU
COM TAM (BITTY RICE)

26 Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 0935
comtamthuankieu.com.vn
CUC GACH QUAN
MODERN VIETNAMESE
10 Dang Tat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3848 0144
DYNASTY
CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Elegant surroundings, top
quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable,
roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese
restaurants in town, with a
classic dim sum menu.
Delivery
Ben Style
Tel: 0906 912730
www.vietnammm.com/
restaurants-ben-style
Healthy, calorie-counted
sandwich and deli fare
Chez Guido
Tel: (08) 3898 3747
www.chezguido.com
Vietnamese, international
fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches
Dominos Pizza
Tel: (08) 3939 3030
www.dominos.vn
Pizzas, wings, desserts
Eat.Vn
www.eat.vn
Delivery service website
for local restaurants
el gato negro
Tel: (08) 6660 1577
Californian-style burritos
HUNGRYPANDA.VN
MONSOON
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)
6290 8899
Traditional pan-Southeast
Asian favourites served in
a visually arresting setting
within a French colonial-era
villa, just minutes from the
backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy
juices and smoothies.
NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE
AMERICAN / FRENCH
2527 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373
steakhouse.com.vn
NYSW is well known for
serving up formidable prime
signature cuts of New York
strip steak, rib eye, double
strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.
www.hungrypanda.vn
KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
www.kfcvietnam.com.vn
Fried chicken, chicken
burgers, sides
Lotteria
Tel: (08) 3910 0000
www.lotteria.vn
Burgers, fried chicken,
sides
Pizza Hut (PHD)

Tel: (08) 3838 8388
www.pizzahut.vn
Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers
Scoozi
Tel: (08) 3823 5795
www.scoozipizza.com
Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts
Taco Bich
PARKVIEW
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Flagship restaurant of The
New World Hotel, serving
lavish buffets all day. Many
cooking stations ranging
from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads,
cold cuts, cheese plates and
desserts.
www.tacobich.com
Homemade Mexican fare
willy woos
Tel: (08) 3941 5433
www.blackcatsaigon.com
US-style chicken and
waffles
Vietnammm
www.vietnammm.com
HCMC
SPORTS
PHAP HOA
VEGETARIAN
3839 5893
QUAN BUI
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3602 2241
Make sure to try the sauted
shrimps with cashew nuts
and crispy fried tofu with
lime wedge, at this popular,
high-quality eatery where all
food is served in traditional
crockery.
TAN HAI VAN
Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh

Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253
Steve Chipman, who had a
hand in establishing gyms
at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness one of
Vietnams largest and bestequipped gyms.
artist-run exhibition space

that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an
exchange programme that
invites international artists/
curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & POOL

Ruby Towers Saigon
Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514
9009
saigonriverclub.com

PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES
3925 0824
Cricket
ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET
CLUB OF SAIGON)
Richard Carrington, Tel:
0909 967 353
richard.carrington@market-edge.asia
eccsaigon.com
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF

SAIGON)
Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228
770 038
deepteshgill@gmail.com
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN

SAIGON)
Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
973 244
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON

CRICKET CLUB)
Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail.
com
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA

CRICKET CLUB)
Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903
998 824
sacccricket@gmail.com
SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)
Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB)

Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908
200 598
manish@ambrij.com
Football
and
Rugby
024 or Viet Luu 0909 500

171.
astere@hotmail.fr
SAIGON RAIDERS
Saigonraiders.com
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
saigonrugbyfootballclub@
yahoo.com
SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
Sports General
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS

LEAGUE
thesidl.com
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL

CLUB
saigonshootersnetball.
blogspot.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
SQUASH
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext 176
TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

436A/33 Ba Thang Hai,
Q10, Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn
AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van

Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com
XROCK CLIMBING
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON
7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,

Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
Contact Fred on 0919 709
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH

DAN
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 7751

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND
BOUTIQUE
YOGA & PILATES
84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3920 5813
soham.vn
STAR FITNESS GYM
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91
Galleries
CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel:
0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Located in a quiet corner
of District 1, Craig Thomas
Gallery offers a compelling
mix of up-and-coming and
established local artists. In
operation since 2009, its
founder has been promoting
Vietnamese art for a decade.
SAN ART
3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel:
(08) 3840 0183
San-art.org
San Art is an independent,
CITYSMART
Horizon Tower, 214 Tran
Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3526 8833
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational
programmes, as well as life
skills and character building
for comprehensive development.
COMPASS EDUCATION
15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3820 3302
compass.edu.vn
GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF

VIETNAM
Somerset Chancellor Court,
1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
7008
gymboreeclasses.com.vn
VAS
23 Tran Cao Van, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 7278
vas.edu.vn
Medical & Dental

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 4545
Well-regarded clinic offering
general examinations and
specialising in pediatrics,
digestive diseases, cardiology, womens health and
internal medicine. Offers a
membership programme
and cooperates with most
insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.
WE LINK
COUNSELLING
64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 2900
contact@welink.vn
Psychological counselling services for individual,
group and family. Diverse
counsellors and therapists,
using Cognitive Behaviour
Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For
adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French
and Spanish spoken.
Salons & Spas

CAT MOC SPA
63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)
6295 8926
catmocspa.com
Aimed exclusively at ladies
and couples only, treatments
at this Japanese spa include
facial, body and foot care,
and Japanese-style haircuts,
as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.
SPA TROPIC
79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910

5575
spatropic.com
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean
Consulate. Spa Tropic has
a long-standing reputation
among expats and visitors
alike for its professional
quality service.
HCMC
DISTRICT 2
Bakeries
BAKEUP ATELIER
BAKERY
Tel: (08) 6281 8392
The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien,
Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries
such as croissants, pain au
chocolat, pain raisins, pizza
dough, pates feuillete and
much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc,
Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and
Ho Chi Minh City.
LOAVES & FISHES
BAKERY / CAFE
5, Street 11, Thao Dien, Q2
Tel: (08) 3519 4118
harvestbaking.net
PAT A CHOU
FRENCH BAKERY
25 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3743 2445
VOELKER
BAKERY
6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
Frenchrun bakery selling
probably the tastiest range
of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passionfruit tart is
a must try.
BUDDHA BAR
RESTOBAR
3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
Just across the lane from
McSorleys, this pub with an
eccentric European tilt and
some nice, authentic cuisine
draws an older crowd with
darts, pool and weekly poker
tourneys.
MCSORLEYS
IRISH BAR
4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126
9026006
Standing in the former home
of Gaudi, McSorelys is full of
surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool,
reggae parties, comedy
nights, and sporting events
projected onto the patio wall.
SAIGON OUTCAST
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAF BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com
Up-cycling and innovative
design form the foundation
for this bar / arts venue /
mini- skate park. Come for
barbeque and reasonably
priced drinks, stick around
for entertaining events and
adorable puppies.
Cafes
Bars & Clubs

BAAN THAI
SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE

3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
A bar and a Thai restaurant
all in one, the focus here is
not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live
sports. Lots of live sports.
The Thai cuisine is cooked
up by no-holds-barred Thai
chefs.
BMV PUB & GRILL

38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel:
01299 839314
facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill
With its seven TVs, full-size
mezzanine area, pool table
and aircon lounge space,
BMV is the perfect place in
District 2 to relax and watch
the sports. Has live music on
Thursday and Friday nights,
and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in
Thao Dien.
AGNES CAFE
COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable cafe
in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat,
smoothies, juices, pastries
and desserts all day. Offers
a western-fare breakfast,
lunch and dinner menu with
a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with
salads and more typical
international cuisine. Now
open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed
and intimate.
CAF EVITA
LAID-BACK CAF / RESTAURANT

230A Nguyen Van Huong,
Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512
3888

LITTLE ANH-EM
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: 0917 567506

In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies
and children up to 10 years
old, Little Anh-Em stocks
sleeping bags and other accessories.
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
signs and landscaping, this

three-storey building is so
packed full of items for sale
that it doesnt seem to have
enough space for all of its
products. The basement
storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets,
while the second level stocks
all types of indoor furniture
except beds. Accessories
are found on the level above.
Special orders are taken for
delivery within three weeks.
Also offers a rental service.
THE FURNITURE HOUSE
HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643
Crafts & Furniture

AUSTIN HOME
REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

3519 0023
Austinhomevn.blogspot.com
Located in a villa-style
building, this An Phu-based
shop stocks antique repro
furniture. All products are
samples, so its limited and
exclusive with only one or
two pieces of each particular
item. Also has a great range
of imported fabrics up on the
2nd floor and an in-house
sewing room for cushions,
sofas and curtains. Offers
custom-made furniture and
delivery within four weeks.
Home dcor orders are also
available.
CHI LAI
HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese
furniture brand is a good
choice for most families
with its respected high-quality designs and competitive
prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and
Dien Bien Phu, the spacious
showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such
as table sets, shelves and
kitchen cabinets. There is a
large selection of carpets as
well as numerous choices of
curtains and accessories.
FEELING TROPIC
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181
8am to 6pm, closed Sundays
Specialising in interior de-
Eat
LA PLANCHA
25 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6281 8521
LU BU
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08)
6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
Drawing inspiration from
the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean
and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run
restaurant bathed in white
focuses on wholesome,
fresh ingredients, with
breads, cheeses, pickles,
pastas and preserves made
on site daily from scratch. A
well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.
Has petanque on the terrace.
AGNES CAF
CAF FARE / TEX-MEX

11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable caf
offering up a western-fare
breakfast, lunch and dinner
menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in
with salads and more typical
international cuisine. Open
until 10pm.
BAAN THAI
PAN-THAI
3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this
An Phu eatery. The menu
has a whole page dedicated
to tom yum soup as well
as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine
cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.
BOAT HOUSE
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790
Live music, mini-festivals
and functions are regular events at this spacious
restobar in An Phu on the
banks of the Saigon river.
The menu offers seasonal
dishes, classic mains and
sharing plates.
BUN DAU MAMA LAM
BUN DAU / BUN BO HUE

40 Quoc Huong, Q2
COM TAM 40A
COM TAM
40A Quoc Huong, Q2
MEKONG MERCHANT
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE /

SEAFOOD
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6478
info@mekongmerchant.com
The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the
place in An Phu. Set around
a cobble-stoned courtyard
the cuisine includes gourmet
seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.
PAPAGAYO
FRENCH BISTRO / COCKTAILS

(08) 6252 1333
facebook.com/papagayosaigon
TAMAGO
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag
in Thao Dien, Tamago has
indoor and out door seating,
a terrace and private rooms.
They have a ladies night on
Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on
Saturday evenings. Have a
second restaurant in Mui Ne.
THE DECK
MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon
River across from Thanh
Da Island, this innovative
restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a
Shopping Malls
Diamond Plaza
34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08)
3825 7750
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
Hung Vuong Plaza

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel:
(08) 2222 0383
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
Parkson Plaza
35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3827 7636
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
Saigon Centre
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)
3829 4888
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
Saigon Square
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,
Q1
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics
Saigon Tax
Trading Centre
135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3821 3849
9am to 9.30pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics, Souvenirs,
Restaurant
Vincom Center
70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3936 9999
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
Zen Plaza
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel:
(08) 3925 0339
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
HCMC
Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails
and a long wine list.
THE LOOP
HEALTHY CAF FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)
3602 6385

AQUAFIT
AQUABIKING
65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao
Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
008985
aquafit.vn
CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER
BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS / FITNESS

49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel:
0947 771326
cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An Phu,
started by fitness guru Cyril
Terrones, features the same
personalised mentorship
Cyrils clients love. Includes
Zumba, salsa, boxing and
fitness for kids and adults
every day. No membership
fees. Pay for classes in installments of 10.
DANCENTER
DANCE & PERFORMANCE

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4490
info@dancentervn.com
dancentervn.com
A professionally run dance
studio close to District 1.
Children age 4+ can learn
jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop,
acro dance and break dance,
while adult classes are available from beginner to advanced. International team
of qualified dance instructors. Free trial first week of
the month for newcomers.
K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY
BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS

100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: 0909 540030
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS
(08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also
offering fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving caloriecalibrated meals.
Groceries, Liquor & Wine

100%
MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES

26B Thao Dien, Q2
100percentvn.com
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2630
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from
the likes of Fauchon. The
deli upstairs in the Hai Ba
Trung branch serves tasty
baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free
WiFi, and offers probably
the best selection of cheese
and cured meats in town.
Free delivery for Districts 1,
2 and 3.
CLASSIC FINE FOODS
GROCERIES & IMPORTER

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street),
Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the citys five
star hotels, also distributing
brands like San Pellegrino,
Rougie foie gras, Galbani
cheese, fresh poultries,
meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all
the products at the gourmet
shop on location.
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP
Corner of Thao Dien & Duong
2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines
with a portfolio spanning
old and new world as well
as everything in between.
The outdoor terrace area is
the perfect spot to sample a
new tipple.
fure to a villa in Thao Dien.

A full range of services is offered including a dedicated
kids salon.
AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (AIS)
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744
6960; Thu Thiem Campus,
264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West
Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International
School is an IB World School
with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering
an international education
from kindergarten to senior
school with the IB Primary
Years Programme (PYP),
Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE)
and IB Diploma Programme
(DP).
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (BIS)
Tel: (08) 3744 2335
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved
by the British Government,
BIS provides a British-style
curriculum for an international student body and is
staffed by British qualified
and trained teachers. Fully
accredited by the Council of
International Schools and a
member of FOBISSEA, BIS
is the largest international
school in Vietnam.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI

MINH CITY (ISHCMC)
(08) 3898 9100
ishcmc.com
The only fully authorized IB
World School in Ho Chi Minh
City, ISHCMC has been
awarding graduates with an
IB Diploma and sending them
off to high-profile overseas
universities since 1999.
MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage childrens engagement with
their surroundings, MIS
offers children from age
three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as
a variety of extracurricular
activities.
SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL

CHILDCARE CENTRE
15 Street 12, perpendicular
to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
3740 8081
saigonkidskindergarten.
com
SKECC has evolved over 10
years to create a creative,
playful learning environment for children ages two
to six. Limited class sizes and
highly engaged teachers en-
sure personal attention for

all students.
Medical & Dental

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL
Residential Area No. 5,
Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge
International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates
Montessori methods into
nursery and kindergarten
programmes to create a
stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes
allow experienced teachers
to cater to individual needs.
SMARTKIDS
1172 Thao Dien Compound,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare
centre provides children
ages 18 months to six years
with a high quality education
in a playful and friendly environment.
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM

172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
theamericanschool.edu.vn
3744 2000
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
GREGORY BEALE
THERAPY
01268 654 202
gregbealetherapyfitness.
com
Salons & Spas

AUTHENTIC SPA
Thao Dien Village, Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744
2222
AVEDA HERBAL SPA

Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON

104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321
Hairdressers
ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON
HAIR & BEAUTY
Fideco Riverview Building,
3744 6475
anthony@aglondonsalon.
com.vn
CONCEPT COIFFURE
(08) 3519 4625
Conceptcoiffure.vn
Open daily from 9am to 8pm
Hair stylist and colourist
specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing
flagship salon Venus Coif-
GERMAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL GIS
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 7300 7257
www.giss.vn
The German International
School offers a unique bilingual German-English programme for students, from a
variety of nationalities, from
2 to 16 years old. Its curriculum is based on the internationally recognised Primary
Years Programmes (PYP),
Middle Years Programme
(MYP) and IB Diploma Programme of the International
Baccalaureate (IB) system.
HCMC
DISTRICT 3
Bars & Clubs
ACOUSTIC
LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3930 2239
Though only 1km from the
city centre, Acoustic is well
off most foreigners radars.
Come see the Vietnamese
house band play nightly, as
well as performances from
overseas bands and guest
artists.
CLOUD 9
LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE

6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong
Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel:
0907 502951
CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS
LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE

224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948
031323
METALLIC BAR
MUSIC BAR / CAFE

41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3154
metallicbar.com
Showcases a variety of different types of music anything from rock, pop and rap
to Latino as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica,
Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana
and Guns n Roses. Covered
live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music
starts at 8.30pm.
PLAN B
CONTEMPORARY BAR
0987 684761
ROCKFANCLUB BAR
ROCK BAR
25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08)
6290 7489
Cafes & Ice-Cream
Crafts & Furniture
ANS INTERIOR CAF
40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3823 3398
BUDS
ICE-CREAM PARLOUR
Tel: (08) 3932 2778
budsicecream.com.vn
HIDEAWAY
INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building
with an outdoor courwrd,
the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to
relax. The mouth-watering
western menu is on the expensive side.
OPERATION: TEAROOM
TEA ROOM
335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3,
Tel: 0169 3583563
operationteavietnam.com
Traverse a wooden bridge
over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000,
in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware
available for purchase.

BAM SKATE SHOP
SKATEWEAR / STREET
0903 641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BOO
STREETWEAR
187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3
boo.vn
plus unlimited salad, is hand

carved at your table. Can
get busy.
out and romantic venue, with

excellent food.
Banh Canh Hoang Ty
SUSHI DINING AOI
BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
ATC FURNITURE
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08)
39326455
SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)
38403946
atc-craft.com
Filled with the scent of
nature, is it what you are
looking for to spice up the
living space of your home?
Come to ATC FURNITURE,
you will find a wide range of
modern-designed products
(sofas, chairs, beds...) manufactured from eco-friendly
materials (water hyacinth &
rattan). Our outdoor (poly
rattan) wicker-furniture
range is suited to your balcony or garden space. A
hanging (hammock) chair
is irresistible for complete
relaxation after a long day
at work.
REMIX DECO
INDOOR FURNITURE
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com
Eat
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN / BUFFET
3820 7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Latino ambiance with great
meat dishes and attractive,
spacious dcor. The churrasco, with 12 cuts of barbecued and cured meats
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930
3917
Namsonsteak.com
HIGHWAY 4
NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE
101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)
3602 2069
highway4.com
Named after the mountain
highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to
the north, Highway 4 serves
up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does
excellent Son Tinh branded
rice wine.
JOIE DE VIVRE
WESTERN / FRENCH
292/10, Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066
facebook.com/joie.vn
PHO HOA
PHO EATERY
260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3829 7943
SHRI
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower,
7274 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
A breezy terrace, indoor
bar and separate dining
room with sweeping views
over central Saigon make
up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought
CITYSMART
SUSHI / SASHIMI
53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh
Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930
0039
sushidiningaoi.com
Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi,
sashimi, and other dishes
such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles
in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set
lunches. Probably the best
sushi in town.
7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational
programmes, as well as life
skills and character building
for comprehensive development.
VAS
98 Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278
vas.edu.vn
Medical & Dental
TIB
HUE / VIETNAMESE
(08) 3829 7242
Tibrestaurant.com.vn
VIET CHAY
VEGAN
Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
vietchay.vn

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA
YOGA
107/39 Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel:
0909 648193
michellelloyd.com
SAIGON BELLY DANCE
BELLY DANCE
No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do
Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832
9429
saigonbellydance.com
Hairdressers
YKC HAIR STUDIO
(08) 3829 2791
STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222
starlightdental.net
Longestablished, modern
clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese
dentists. A favourite of the
foreign residential community due to its modern and
effective treatments allied
with extremely reasonable
prices.
AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC
CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
A clinic provides world class
Chiropractic, Physiotherapy
and Foot Care. We specialize
in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee
pain, sports injuries, and all
types of foot problems. We
also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome
in children and adult.
HCMC
PHU MY HUNG
INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL

CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
Globally renowned provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare
offers full dental services
in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide
high skilled dental service.
Orthodontics is also available.
INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
The worlds leading provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7
emergency care. Specialist
care is available in many
fields.
STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC
(08) 3932 1090
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Medical Clinic
offers services in internal
medicine, dermatology,
aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general
medicine.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

(08) 3932 1090
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

EASTERN MEDICINE
Tel: (08) 3932 6579

Salons & Spas

AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
YKC SPA
(08) 3829 2791
ykcspa.com
Bakeries
LAMOUR
BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn
SAVOURE
BAKERY
Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7
SIMRANS
BAKERY
SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908
828552
simrans.sg

Bars & Clubs

BANANA BAR
EXPAT BAR
SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3282
A downstairs pool table, an
open, street side terrace and
specials on Tiger draft, this
fun but slightly run-down
joint is a local haunt for many
a resident of Saigon South.
PEACHES
CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
0999
Known as the Curry Pub,
this pleasant Saigon South
watering hole mixes the beer
with all things curry anything from Goan fish curries
to beef rendangs and more.
A popular local haunt.
RUBY SOHO
CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 3900
THE TAVERN
EXPAT & SPORTS BAR
R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang
Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
3900
The first bar established in
Saigon South, great food,
great music and loads of
laughs. Has regular live
music nights, theme nights
and a variety of live sports
events to please everybody.
Big screens and outdoor
seating add to the mix, with
BBQs available for parties
and events.
Crafts & Furniture

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton
Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413
7355
bellavitafurniture.com
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110; S17 Sky
Garden, Nguyen Van Linh,
Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758
mekong-creations.org
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen
Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271
7758
mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6657
www.nhaxinh.com
Eat
BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON
INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and
bar on The Crescent with
great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned
international fare, all set in
a contemporary, spacious
environment.
MING DYNASTY
LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE

23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 5555
NATHALIES
THAI / VIETNAMESE
S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 0822
nathaliesrestaurant.com
SALT & PEPPER
PAN-ITALIAN
The Crescent, Phu My Hung,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 4848
SCOTT AND BINHS
INTERNATIONAL
15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948
901465
bizuhotel.com/main/pages/
scottbinhs.php
Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this
restaurant boasts a full bar,
ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus
on the creative use of local
ingredients.
KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE

Crescent Residence 2, 107
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907
099 480
kindermusik-vietnam.com
CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB
PANORMA FITNESS
PAN-VIETNAMESE
The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304
13C Phong Phu Commune,

Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412
3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam
serves local and foreign
students from Kindergarten
to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the
internationally recognised
Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting
academic excellence.
102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung,

Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052
lgkids.vn
EL GAUCHO
HOANG YEN
CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL

KINDERGARTEN
LUXURY INDOCHINA
2 Phan Van Chuong, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 9999
Unit CR1-12, The Crescent,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.

GYM, POOL, SQUASH
3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My
Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277
The-crescent.com
Overlooking the Crescent
complexs lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a
gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track
their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash
courts, pool, steam bath and
nutrition bar.
CHAM CHARM
based on UK standards, culminating in IGCSEs and A

levels (awarded upon graduation by Cambridge University examinations board).
INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS

206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel:
01654 058401 / 01629
546534
cezsaigon@gmail.com

ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son,
Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, Tel:
(08) 5431 1833
theabcis.com
Serving students from 32
nations, ages two to 18, ABC
delivers a curriculum wholly
Medical & Dental

AMERICAN EYE CENTER VIETNAM
EYE CLINIC / SURGERY

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5413 6758
americaneyecentervn.com

FV HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 3333
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital
whose standard of health
care matches that found
anywhere, with 19 fulltime
French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing
expertise in 30 medical and
surgical areas, especially
maternity care.
HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,
Tel: 0906 684 969

SMILE DENTAL
RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL SAIGON (RISS)
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel:
(08) 3773 3171
rissaigon.edu.vn
RISS provides students from
over 25 nations with a British / international education.
Students ages two to 18 enjoy classes taught by qualified native English speakers
at their stateoftheart
campus.
SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (SSIS)
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
Offers an American-style
education (SAT, IB and AP)
from elementary to highschool, emphasizing a multicultural student environment and a commitment to
wellrounded education at
all levels.
JAPANESE DENTAL CLINIC

173 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phong
Ward, Q7, Tel: 5413 6634
smiledental-vn.com
9am to 12pm, 2pm to 6.30pm
(Mon, Tue, Fri, Sat); 2pm
to 6.30pm (Thurs); 9am to
12pm (Sun); Closed Wednesdays
A contemporary Japanese
dental clinic boasting the
latest equipment and technology. Provides a full range
of standard and specialised
dental services and treatments, including 60-minute teeth whitening. Speak
English, Vietnamese and
Japanese.

simply email us on
well try our best
nh bi Yves Schiepek
Tr Chi Burger
McDonald ang ti Vit Nam. n lc khuy ng th trng bnh burger
t c nhng tho lun v bnh burger

thng va qua u xoay quang ch
McDonald ang chun b xut hin ti th
trng Vit Nam sau mt thi gian di
ch i, vi mt a th rng v c dch v li xe
qua gia trung tm thnh ph H Ch Minh.
Nhng Vit Nam hin c mt hng burger
khc ca M l Burger King hoc nu bn cng
c Carl Jr. th s l hai V tnh ra c n hn
143,000 lt a thch trn facebook i vi hai
ng trm burger ny. Ngoi ra cn c nhng
chui burger nng k nh Lotteria ca Hn Quc
v Jolibee ca Philippine.
Vi nm gn y, Lotteria lun tn trang, trang
b thit b mi v m rng thm cc quy hng ti
cc gc ph. Saigon Burger King cng bt nhp
vi ng thi tng t. Thng va qua, hng
m thm c hai a im c nhiu khch du
lch nc ngoi nng tng s ln 11 a im u
trong thnh ph H Ch Minh mt ca hng
nm ti a phn Tho in v a im cn li
nm ngay trn ng Phm Ng Lo, mt a
im ng khch nc ngoi. Gii quan st cho
rng iu ny nm trong chin lc. ng Paul, 50
tui ngi c, ni: Burger King vn lun c th
trng ca mnh. Mc d ngi bn a s thch
burger ca McDonald nhng bn th nhn quanh
xem c bao nhiu ngi dn y ti nay? Hu

ht s l ngi nc ngoi.
S Liu Thc T
Thc t, 5 trong s 7 khch rut ca Burger King

u trung thnh vi thng hiu ny khi c
phng vn. (Loan, 20 tui, ngi duy nht sinh ra
v ln ln Si Gn c phng vn khng a
ra quyt nh).
McDonald tht t nht Giuliano, 17 tui,
sng 3 nm Si Gn ni v chia s thm Kiu
nh cng mt loi burger lm i lm li. Cn
Burger King h pha trn cc loi burger cho v
tuyt hn.
Ti chn Burger King v ngon hn Paul chia
s. t nhng n ngon hn nhiu.
B Ruth, 62 tui, ngi Israel, mc d th
v thch Burger King ng Phm Ng Lo,
H Ch Minh li quyt nh trung thnh vi
McDonald v Mn ny quen thuc vi ti hn
Cn Loan, sau khi thng thc Burger King ti
Phm Ng Lo chn thng hiu ny thay v
Lotteria hay Jollibee: Ti rt thch Burger King
Cnh Tranh
Ngi ta n rng c v nh McDonald cng

chun b cho mnh nhng chin lc ring.
H s to ra nh hng Paul nhn xt

thm.McDonald s khuy ng th trng v
lun xut hin trn phng tin truyn thng
trong nm ti.
Sau li cng b s gia nhp th trng ca
hng McDonald, nhng trang tin lun y p
cc d on u l ni hng s b. Nhng
a im ngoi trung tm thnh ph nh G
Vp, Qun 10 cng nh ng ba on Phm Ng
Lo ct Trn Hng o u c nhc n.
Burger King khng bao gi to ra nhng tin
nh vy.
Giuliano nhn xt v hai nm u xut hin
ca Burger King: Ban u, lng khch cng
khng qu ng. Cn gi y, h c s lng
khch kh n nh.
Cameron, 23 tui n t Nam Phi, vi 16 nm
sng Si Gn li cho rng :Ti ngh khi m
ti Vit Nam, McDonald s kh bn rn v ngi
Vit Nam s phn ng : McDonalds, mnh
nhn thy trn phim nh nhng cha bao gi
c th. V th, Ti ngh ngi dn bn a s
dng li v th thi
Paul th li qu quyt Khng c c hi no
ht. Macca s chim sch th phn, Macca ang
b vo th trng vi gi ca mt t ph. V
h s c 200 nh hng nm ti. Ed Weinberg
Ting trng M Linh
a vo cuc sng ca v n hong huyn

thoi u tin ca Vit Nam, ch em Hai
B Trng, ngi m s dng cm
nh hng lch s t nc ny 2 ngn
nm trc, ting trng M Linh, l mt v ci
lng truyn thng mt loi opera ca ngi
Vit s n vi sn khu Idecaf vo ngy 7 thng
1. Cng biu din vi cc ngh s l Thanh Sang,
ngh s ci lng ni ting nht cho n gi, mt
huyn thoi t nhng nm 1960. ng khng xut
hin trn sn khu cng gn mt thp k ri, v

cha din nhng v nh th ny t khi ng ht vi
Thanh Nga, cng l mt ngh s ci lng n rt
ni ting.
Cu chuyn k v s anh hng, tnh yu v s
tr th. Ting trng M Linh ku gi ngi Vit
Nam thng nht li vi nhau nh tan qun
xm lc Trung Quc iu m h thnh
cng trong mt thi gian, nhng cui cng li b
nh bi. Qun Trung Quc sau i tm v
ph hy tt c nhng chic trng M Linh chng

tm c, nh th n c xem l biu tng
ca tm hn v tinh thn ca ngi Vit c.
y c th c coi nh bui din cui cng
ca Thanh Sang, cng nh l mt s kin m
ngi ta c th nhn li v ni, Ti .
Ting trng M Linh s c din vo ngy 7
thng 1, 8 gi ti ti sn khu Idecaf, 31 Thi Vn
Lung, Qun 1. bit thm thng tin hy gi (08)
2229 9414
D tic cui nm
Mt ln na, CanCham li t chc mt ba tic sang trng
l ba tic u tin cho gii doanh nhn vo nm mi, nm
con nga Nm mi pha trc: Tm nhn xa v c kt
ca ngi qun tr doanh nghip vo nm 2014. Vo ngy 16
thng Ging ti Khch sn New World, qun tr nhn lc,
tuyn dng, cc vn hp php, pht trin kinh t - x hi,
xu hng u t v cn nhiu hn na s c tho lun, v
vy CanCham v cc nh t chc t khp ni trn th gii rt
hy vng vo cc c hi him c v th thch nm mi ny.
V cho ba tic ngy 16 thng Ging l VND850,000 cho
thnh vin CanCham v cc t chc trc thuc, VND1.5
triu cho khch khng l thnh vin, VND7.5 triu cho mt
bn 10 ngi. Nhn khch ng k vo lc 11 gi sng, a
im l khch sn New World, 76 L Lai, Qun 1. ng
k tham d, hy lin h hcmc@canchamvietnam.org hoc
(08) 3824 3754
Gn kt vi Vit Nam
Nhn li mt hi tho sau nm nm hot ng .
nh cung cp bi Cristina Nualart
mi ni trn th
gii, cc cuc hi
tho khoa hc din
ra hng nm vi cc
ch a dng t cng ngh
nano cho ti chui cung ng ti chnh hay vn
hc ch trong ngn ng ni ca Chu Phi. Rt
nhiu nhng hc gi v nhng ngi lm trong
lnh vc ny tham d nhng bui hi tho
tho lun v nhng lnh vc thuc chuyn
mn ca h.
Mt vi nm trc, tin s Phan L H, ging
vin ti trng i hc Monash Australia
mun t chc mt din n cho mt cuc tho
lun ci m v Vit Nam. Ging nh nhng
ngi theo ui gic m ca mnh, c ang bin
n tr thnh thc hin t chc mt hi tho
v tt c mi th Vit Nam ang c k hoch
thc hin trong nm nm. T Melbourne, ti H
Ni, v Hawaii Gn kt vi Vit Nam s mang
cc hc gi t nhiu lnh vc li vi nhau
tho lun v tng lai, qu kh v hin ti vi v
s nhng cu hi v Vit Nam.
Trong thng va qua, hi tho Gn kt vi Vit
Nam ln th nm c ch Nhng cch khc
nhau tm hiu v Vit Nam. S kin ny c
t chc ti trng Thi Nguyn, cch H Ni
hai ting v pha Bc.
T Hp Nhng Tng
Trong hai ngy 16 v 17 thng 12, 200 nh nghin

cu chia s nhng cng trnh ca h vi nhau.
Trong o chong, khn qung c v m, hng
trm ngi rt nhiu trong s h l nhng sinh

vin ti t i hc Thi Nguyn va say sa
ghi chp va nhp mi nhng tch tr nng. Vi
hn 100 bi trnh by trong vng hai ngy, ngi
ra rt d qun i nhng chi tit, c bit nhng
th c th gy ra nhng bi ri cho nhng ngi
khng quyt on.
Bn s chn tm hiu v vic lm th no
gim bt tc ng ca bin i kh hu hay
nhng nh hng t nhng hp tc xuyn Thi
Bnh Dng ti Vit Nam? Mt bi thuyt trnh
v trng la hu c c th tip ni bi mt bi
v qun l xung t, hoc v vic gian ln trong
trng hc.
Trong mt bui tho lun th v, nghin
cu sinh Nguyn Anh Tun gii thch v s
khc bit gia mt nh ngoi cm v mt b
ng. Anh a ra v d ngi ta dng mt
qu trng v mt vi chic a tm ra nhng
hi ct ca ngi mt nh th no. Tho
lun ca anh v nhng kh nng nhn thc c
bit ny vi nhng nim tin huyn b vo sc
mnh ca nhng b ct, c ly cm hng t
nhng tc phm ca cc ha s n ngi Vit v
Philippines.
n t Berkeley bang California, gio s s hc
Peter Zinoman thuyt trnh cun sch ca ng
v nh vn V Trng Phng, mt trong nhng tc
gi c tm nh hng nht Vit

Nam trong th k trc. Mt gio
s s hc khc, Liam Kelley ti t
trng i hc Hawaii trnh by
vic nhng h thng bn in
t v nhng phn mm khc to ra nhng s
kt hp trn ton cu trong vic nghin cu v
nhng c tnh ca con ngi. Nh chng ta bit
t Wikipedia, nhng d n nh th ny tn dng
ti nng ca c nhn sn sng ng gp tri thc v
thi gian to nn mt th gii tt p hn.
Hng chc nhng nh thuyt trnh khc, ti
t nhng lc a khc nhau chia s nhng
tng ca h kt ni vi nhng tc phm ca
nhng ngh s Si Gn vi nhng nghin cu
v dn tc hc trong khu vc.
Hi tho bt u nh mt d n c nhn v
chng t rng n ang trn thnh cng.
Din ra ti Vit Nam nn y l c hi cho nhng
ngi lm vic trong lnh vc gio dc hay
chuyn gia trong nc tham gia vo mt s kin
mang tnh quc t m khng cn phi tn km
chi ph i li.
Thi gian hi tho din ra cng thun li cho
nhng v khch quc t c hi ln k hoch
cho mt k ngh Ging Sinh Vit Nam. Nhiu
ngi thuyt trnh hin gi ang gn kt vi
cc thnh ph ti Vit Nam mt cch trc tip.
Khng cn nghi ng g na, Vit Nam s l mt
ngun nghin cu di do tip tc hi tho
ny. Cristina Nualart
bit thm v hi tho ny, hy vo trang
engagingwithvietnam.com
Chng trnh m nhc ma tt

ca Bookworm
Bookworm em ti cho chng ta mt vi hot
ng truyn thng vo ch hai m duy nht trong
ma l tt ny. u tin l Bookworm Too, ngy
25 thng Ging, lng c Nghi Tm t 1 gi tra,
trong khi 24 gi sau cng cng bui biu din nh
th ny s din ra ti ca hng Chu Long, cng
vo lc 1 gi tra.
Bui l hi ny s c dn nhc truyn thng ca
Vit Nam biu din, bi qu xem tng (c phin
dch nu cn), th php Tt, tranh in 12 con gip,
khn gi n xem cng c c hi lm Bnh Chng,
T He (hnh nhn chi lm t bt) cho tr em,
nm th ru v ru vang nu cho Tt.
Trong dp ny cc tng t st nung hnh 12
con gip ca ngi dn tc Chm, cc loi chi
Tt truyn thng v hin i, sch c bn vi gi
phi chng u c by bn.
Bookworm Trung tm Nu n H Ni, 44 Chu
Long, Ba nh. Bookworm Too hm 1/28 u C,
Lng Nghi Tm, Ty H
Thn v n Vit Nam
in Goethe ang t chc bui trin lm

chung ca hai ngh s H Ni t hai th
h khc nhau V Dn Tn v Nguyn
Ngha Cng ch trng vo hnh nh
n tnh thng qua cc tc phm iu khc v dn
dng. Thn v n Vit Nam s c trng by
ti Bo tng M thut Thnh ph H Ch Minh
t ngy 11 thng 1 n 24 thng 1, vi bui ra mt
vo ngy 10 v bui ni chuyn tho lun ngy 12.
Cuc trin lm ny nh du s ra mt u tin
ca cc tc phm hn lm chn lc ca Tn, mt

ngh s bn hin i, ngi trn ln nhiu phng
tin khc nhau to nn cc tc phm bt ph
truyn thng vo nhng nm 1980, vi phong cch
phng khong v cch s dng vt liu c chn lc
k, anh tr thnh mt trong nhng ngh s hng
u Vit Nam trong thi k sau i Mi. Cng,
c nhn i hc M Thut Vit Nam, c ci nhn
hon ton khc bit so vi Tn, th hin tc phm
ca mnh bng cch chm bim thc ti ng
i, b chi phi bi ch ngha tiu dng v nhn

mc hng ha.
Bui l khai mc din ra vo ngy 10 thng
1, lc 6 gi, vi s gii thiu ca nh ph bnh
Iola Lenzi v trin lm din ra hng ngy cho
n 24 thng 1 ti Bo tng M thut thnh ph,
97A Ph c Chnh, Qun 1. Bui tho lun l
vo ngy 12 thng 1, lc 3.30 chiu. bit thm
thng tin hy lin h (08) 3600 9588 hoc email
prog@saigon.goethe.org
The final say
Opportunity Knocks
Alongside his singer wife, Thuy Tien and Le Cong Vinh are the Posh and Becks of
Vietnam. Derek Milroy talks with the nations most famous footballer, just off a stint
starring for Japanese club Consadole Sapporo. Illustration by Yanneth Albornoz
he 90 minutes had come and gone

in the final of the 2008 ASEAN
Football Championship. As the
clock ticked on for the fourth
minute of added time, with Thailand
and Vietnam deadlocked, Le Cong Vinh
rose up and headed himself into football
immortality. His goal won Vietnam its first
regional trophy. Unprecedented national
celebrations followed. He has since become
the most decorated and popular Vietnamese
footballer of all time.
But Vinh hasnt settled into comfortable
celebrity. Last year, his club Hanoi FC went
bust, leaving him without a team willing
to buy out his expensive contract. But at
the last minute his hometown club Song
Lam Nghe An stepped in to save his career.
In August, as Song Lam were gunning
for the league title, Vinh surprised many
by moving to Japanese club Consadole
Sapporo on loan becoming the first
Southeast Asian footballer to play in Japan.
A Vietnamese Abroad
He lived in Hokkaido for six months,
playing for one of Japans most famous
clubs. He was blown away by the reception
of the Japanese fans, who took him into
their affections for his skills and hardworking ethic, despite not being a regular
starter for the J-League Division 2 club.
Fans of Sapporo gave me more love
that I expected, the footballer says. Ill
remember the way they treated me for the
rest of my life. When I landed at the airport,
there were so many fans welcoming me.
When I was on the ground, many fans
recognised me and waved their hands.
But the most touching and proudest
moment was when two middle aged
couples were carrying a Vietnamese flag
before asking for my autograph. You have
to understand that finding a Vietnamese
flag in Japan is very difficult. During the
games, fans drew a Vietnamese flag on
tough paper to encourage me.
Its not the first time that Vinh has played

overseas, becoming the first Vietnamese to
play in a top-flight European league after a
stint at Portugals Leixoes S.C. back in 2009.
But this time he moved to a country he is
fascinated with. He spent hours every day
learning Japanese during his time there, and
has always loved Japanese culture.
Its mostly because of the food. In his
first few days he wisely made friends with
Sapporos chef. He just wished he could
have taught him how to cook Vietnamese
cuisine.
I can eat most dishes in Japan, Vinh
says. But sometimes I missed Vietnamese
food.
Vinh knows the Vietnamese footballer is
the forgotten man of Asia, but that doesnt
mean that kids growing up in Vietnam
should not dream of playing in England or
Spain. He was that way as a kid, idolising
Portuguese winger Luis Figo. He says that
the problem is not the skill level its
that Vietnamese players do not have the
opportunity and the big football teams
have not fully evaluated the potential of
Vietnamese players.
Pleasure and Pain

The game Vinh scored his first J-League
goal in, he also found himself red-carded.
He worked hard, though, to learn the
subtleties of this new league. The personal
touch the club showed him made a real
difference. The Sapporo chairman actually
flew from Japan to sign Vinh and from
that moment, the head coach, the players
and the doctors made him feel as if he was
one of them, and this helped him to perform
better and more regularly on the field.
He traces his Japanese experience back
to that day. This extreme happiness
and unlimited pain was only 20 minutes
apart, he says. I scored my first goal
which meant so much to me, bringing
me happiness but then I was standing
watching my 10 teammates fighting against
11 opponents, I was very regretful and

nervous.
That was the longest match in my life.
However, we won 1-0. I learnt a big lesson
that day.
Back to V-League Business

With Vinhs time in Japan now up, it is back
to V-League business, with Song Lams new
season starting on Jan. 11, with 13 teams in
action.
He still feels indebted to Song Lam for
buying out his contract. I felt sad, he says.
I felt hurt [when Hanoi FC went bust].
Not only for me personally but for the
whole Hanoi FC team especially for the
leaders, who were very passionate about
the football team. None of us wanted that
to happen.
We cried because the team was torn
apart and some players have still to find a
new team since last year. Some even had to
retire.
Vinh found himself in a tough situation,
which he escaped with trademark humility.
At that time, he says, my contract that
Hanoi signed with me meant that I was still
tied to them for two years, even though
they didnt exist. I had to wait until a team
bought my contract. Finally Song Lam
Nghe An, my hometown football team,
saved me. I wear the number 89 shirt to
show that the contract was signed at the last
minute, before the V-League started.
Although many of his finest memories
are from his spells abroad, they can never
top that ASEAN Championship winner.
When I scored in the last minute,
bringing the first Southeast Asian trophy
for the Vietnamese football team, he says,
my whole country lived in happiness,
and millions of people flocked to the street
to celebrate with flags and flowers. That
day, the bus of the Vietnamese team was
surrounded by thousands of fans we
only made it back to the hotel at 3am. That
is the best moment of my life.
This extreme happiness and unlimited pain was only 20 minutes

apart. I scored my first goal which meant so much to me, bringing
me happiness but then I was standing watching my 10 teammates
fighting against 11 opponents, I was very regretful and nervous
The last call

Artist, journalist, bar owner and personality extraordinaire, Nguyen Qui Duc
is one of Hanois most enduring characters. With his bar-cum-art-gallery
Tadioto soon to be looking for a new space, he gives his thoughts on life,
Vietnam and the universe. Photo by Nick Ross
I returned to Vietnam because I
had always wanted to. I was born here,
never felt comfortable elsewhere. Morocco was a choice but I needed a community. I fell in love with Hanoi when I
came here after some 15 years abroad. I
was also tired of living in the West.
My experience overseas
taught me that racial and class discrimination is alive and well, that there are
often possibilities and opportunities, that
the war here will never be understood,
that being in exile is a lifetime condition.
I chose to live in Hanoi

because its green, it has charm,
seasonal changes, and people work

hard. Its energetic, crazy, and one can
get a lot done if one abandons normal
expectations.
I started Tadioto because I have
always loved receiving people. I needed

something to do, and an art gallery and
a bar seemed a good choice. I have had
occasions of extreme joy and frustration,
fear and despair, as well as moments of
frightening drunkeness. The success of
Tadioto was never about financial gains,
but I cant measure such losses against
the friendship Ive received from customers, colleagues, artists, visitors, strangers,
and the moments when I see happy
people in a place I created for them.
Being both a businessman and

a creative is impossible, and
insane. Yet it keeps me going.
Making things work means

changing life-long habits. Patience is
required, but also a harsh attitude, and
understanding that what works in the
morning isnt necessarily going to work
in the afternoon. Its about not expecting
perfection, not demanding consistency.

And not to rely on promises.
My biggest struggle is to con-
trol my impulses.
Contemporary art in the

capital has held big promise for
years. It seems to be sparks and bursts

of creativity at various undefined
moments.
Sometimes I wish I had the courage to let go, to be simple, and not jump
at all the opportunities. I wish I had
thought more about the risks I recently
took at Zone 9.
I most enjoy what I dont allow
myself enough: time alone, quietude,

writing, reading, learning. I have a tendency to want to confront problems, and
cant balance my need for being alone
and being with friends.
The person I admire the most

is my father. Honest, dedicated to his
work and his dreams, able to handle
tough times with humility, determination, and without rancor. And he didnt
show it, but must have had an enormous
sense of humour to tolerate me as a son.
If I could change one thing, Id

redo the 20th century so that there
would have been no war here.
My biggest regret is to have
failed those who had given me their love

and support.
My dream is to float away on a

boat in Ha Long Bay, dying in an opium
dream.
Life has given me a lot. Too much.

Word Vietnam Jan 2014

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Chuyn du lch, m thc

010 / Walk n Ride

EAT & DRINK

042 / The Province

088 / The Caffeine Contests

Pedestrianising Hanois Old In-Between

014 / Burger Games

018 / Only in Asia

A roundup of the latest

020 / The Buffalo is Back

A local treasure gets restored

100 / Beer Club Evolution

Vietnamese nightlife has a

Artists who think globally,

084 / The Future of

104 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

The KAfe: hot or not?

105 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: barbecued

106 / Street Snacker HCMC

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131 / Hanoi Promos

150 / Coffee Cup

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136 / The Alchemist

138 / The Therapist

What the countrys most

176 / The Last Call

Word - Duong Huynh

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Chu trch nhim xut bn:

Thc hin lin kt xut bn:

In n 15.000 cun, kh 20.5 x 27cm

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