Word Vietnam May 2014

Chuyn du lch, m thc
Vietnam Edition
May 2014
Nh Xut Bn Lao ng
w
or
dv
ie
tn
am
.c
om
The Music
Issue
contents
wordvietnam.com
May 2014
064
058
096
THE TALK
INSIDER
010 / The End of Laissez-Faire
The days of the Wild East are ending
058 / Madagui Soldiers
Events to look out for this month
Playing soldier on camera
BRIEFINGS
Hitting the mat with the students
of VAS
018 / The Voting
Settling fights without violence
022 / The Motocross Track
Hanoi gets dirtier
064 / Vietnams Music Scene,

In 25 Acts
100 / Working as a Co-Worker
The world of loosened shirt collars
EAT & DRINK

102 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
Our cover story takes the pulse of a The JW Marriotts signature spot
domestic revolution
103 / Street Snacker Hanoi
088 / Saigon from Above
On the menu: banh cuon ruoc tom
Getting some perspective on the 104 / Mystery Diner HCMC

city, drone copter style
A white-out at Mediterranean-styled
Lubu
ARTS
092 / The Academy
Inside Vietnams classical music

powerhouse
2 | Word May 2014 | wordvietnam.com
096 / The Antique Market
The creator of Metropoles pho Prowling for bargains

cocktail
BUSINESS
011 / The Big Five
016 / Wrestling with Scholars
056 / The Bartender
LEISURE
106 / A Short History of Chicken Rice
Tracing the roots of an iconic dish
contents
114
122
184
135 / Hanoi Promos
FASHION
HCMC
108 / Bed-In
Playing at John and Yoko
030 / Dance Parties
TRAVEL
038 / Overscene
114 / The Outer Reaches
Mongolia, high and low
122 / Destination Zero
040 / Calendar
At the InterCon, Danangs peninsular

paradise
124 / Photography Tips
A new column gives some light advice
027 / Travel Promos

HANOI
048 / Overscene
050 / Calendar
128 / Hanoi City Guide
147 / HCMC City Guide

156 / Coffee Cup
160 / Top Eats
162 / Non-Famous Places
166 / Food Promos
COLUMNS
138 / Book Buff
140 / The Alchemist
142 / The Therapist

144 / Medical Buff
146 / Student Eye
150 / Business Buff
152 / Body and Temple
164 / A World of Good
175 / Tieng Viet
FINAL SAY
180 / The Problem with MSG
Truth versus rumours
182 / That Little Bit Extra
Figuring out tipping
184 / The Last Call
The folks at CAMA squeeze onto a

couch
Contributors
This month we asked Word staff:
What are you listening to?
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
Kyle Phanroy
Acting Photo Editor

Im listening to The Proclaimers.
Growing up, their album Sunshine On
Leith could be heard blaring through our
home stereo system with my mom accompanying,
slightly out of tune. It helps me remember the little
things.
Margaret Smith
Contributing Writer
Ive been listening to Frankie Valli
& The Four Seasons. The group is a
favourite of my dads, and growing up
we would always listen to their classics
while driving to the beach for our annual
family vacation. Songs like Sherry, Big Girls Dont Cry
and Stay are great for those summertime vibes.
Ed Weinberg
Deputy Editor
Titus Andronicus. Theyre a New
Jersey-based punk band with a
crescendoing rhythm section. I
sometimes say Im from other places Ive
lived, but when it comes to punk bands, my high
school state wins out.
EDITORIAL
nick ross
Chief Editor
editor@wordvietnam.com
Ed Weinberg
Deputy Editor
ed@wordvietnam.com
MADs monsen
Creative Director
mads@wordvietnam.com
Elisabeth Rosen
Staff Editor
elisabeth@wordvietnam.com
Kyle Phanroy
Acting Photo Editor
kyle@wordvietnam.com
Hoa Le
Staff Editor
hoale@wordvietnam.com
Francis Xavier
Staff Reporter
francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com
kAREN HEWELL
News & Online Editor
karen@wordvietnam.com
mark allan
Website & Graphic Designer
mark@wordvietnam.com
david harris
Staff Photographer
david@wordvietnam.com
vu ha kim vy
Marketing
vy@wordvietnam.com
Nguyen Loc
Layout Designer
loc@wordvietnam.com
David Harris
Staff Photographer
Lately I have been listening to Holy
Waves Relax all the time, Texas-based
psych. I can't recommend them enough.
ADMINISTRATION
Bao ross
General Director
bao@wordvietnam.com
Francis Xavier
Staff Reporter
Portishead recently. Discovered them
ONLY recently because they did a
collaboration with Thom Yorke from
Radiohead. Gives me the feeling of 1990s
midnight radio dark sexy makeout music,
full of feelings, fits my dark soul.
Matt Bender
Contributing Writer
Dosh whose real, coolest-name-ever
is Martin Luther King Chavez Dosh
calls himself a percussionist, which
means hes combining everything from
drums to marimbas on his tracks. Super-psychedelic
and easy on the ears, I recommend his second record,
The Lost Take. Great soundtrack for cooking and sex.
Nick Ross
Chief Editor
Im listening to Portishead, a band
who I used to love and haven't really
listened to since I was in my early 20s.
I even went to their first-ever live gig, at
the New Trinity in Bristol, UK. Singer Beth
Gibbons hugged the microphone and, eyes closed,
chain-smoked her way through the show. The crowd
were entranced, in raptures.
trang le
Chief Accountant
trang@wordvietnam.com
ADVERTISING
bao ross
General Director
bao@wordvietnam.com
Trinh Bui
Sales Executive
trinh@wordvietnam.com
DISTRIBUTION
trinh@wordvietnam.com
chau giang
Area Sales Manager Hanoi
giang@wordvietnam.com
SUBSCRIPTIONS
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In xong v np lu chiu Qy 2 nm 2014.
The prelude
take over the hotel bar,
live music scene in
Vietnam. And it was at
a time when even flying
in a big-name DJ into
Vietnam was a rarity.
During this period,
the only musicians of
any note who headed
this way were Groove
Armada. Oh, and My
Chemical Romance.
But Tiger Beer paid for
that one.
Just seven years on
and the music scene
has transformed from
being, well, nothing, to
being something worth
writing about. For a
long time the problem
was the lack of venues,
in particular venues
willing to take a risk on
forking out money for
DJs and bands to fly in

from overseas. This is
still an issue note,
theres a niche still to be
filled here but today
there are options.
Another barrier was
ticket prices versus the
cost of bringing in the
talent. A cross-country
campaign worked.
Even if entry is only
VND50,000 went the
idea people must pay
to experience something
different to the ordinary.
It worked, and although
there are still I-candrink-10-bia-hoi-for-theprice-of-that-entrancefee cheapskates out
there you know who
you are the audience
has been trained.
However, the key
factor, the one that

really makes a music
scene work, is having
locally formed bands
playing original music.
And this is what we
now have. Some have
been around for over
a decade. But the
real groundswell is
happening now.
This issue of Word
is about celebrating
something new, a music
scene that even two
years ago we would
yearn for but couldnt
quite touch. Were
at the beginning of
something big the
excitement is tangible.
This is us giving it as
much support as we
can. Nick Ross,
Chief Editor
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC
VIETNAM EDITION
MAY 2014
The MUsic
Issue
W
OR
DV
IE
TN
AM
.C
OM
few years back

a well-known
blogger
emailed me
about potential articles
he could contribute. Id
love to talk about the
appalling music scene
in this country, he
said, but I dont think
youd be able to publish
anything I write.
His issue was not
with Vietnamese
music past or
present but with the
proliferation of cover
bands playing the
bars and nightclubs of
Vietnam. It was before
the era of the Filipino
explosion, when welltrained, pitch perfect
musicians from The
Philippines began to
NH XUT BN LAO NG
THIS MONTH'S COVER

Cover by DH Advertising
Photo by Kyle Phanroy
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AT EDITOR@wordvietnam.com were at your fingertips.
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
The Rise and
Fall of The Pham
The Danang Issue

(April 2014)
I have read your Word issue about Danang, and like it Good job! Michiel
The Backpackers Area, Pham Ngu Lao is on the move. But is it for better or for worse?
Words and photos by Nick Ross
anuary on Bui Vien just before Tet.

Its mid-evening and the plastic
chairs on the sidewalk are filling
up. I park my bike neatly at the
entrance of an alleyway to take photos and
am greeted with irritation. Not from the
hordes of cheap beer drinkers, but from
the owners of one of the watering holes.
I snap away and the revelers react. They
photo bomb, they raise their beer to give
me a cheers, the atmosphere electrifies. As
the motorbikes edge their way through the
packed streets, the bia hoi drinkers are in
their element ecstatic. Theyre a mix, too.
Foreigners of all ilks and a growing quorum

of young Vietnamese, who go as one twentysomething put it, for the atmosphere, the
cheap beer and the chance to speak English.
But my bike has been moved. Not once,
but twice, and now the irate gestures are
coming a woman is motioning at me to
get out of there. Im not spending money so I
have to leave.
Fast forward to now and the sidewalks
have been cleared of the plastic chairs. Its
not just the one-metre sidewalk rule, where
bikes and businesses can stretch out onto the
sidewalk as long as theres a metre free for
pedestrians. Its everything.

This isnt the pedestrianisation being
experimented with in Hanois Old Quarter,
its the nuclear option. The once growing
numbers of street food stalls, the kebab joints
and the new-school likes of JJs Fish and
Chips on De Tham (now operating a delivery
service, 5pm to 10pm nightly call 01262
909077) and Burrito Revolution on Bui Vien
(now on vietnammm.com), have moved on.
Legends like all-night noodle maker Lam,
who used to shake his wok on the Bui Vien
side of Crazy Buffalo, have left without a
trace. The place is a ghost town.
Speak to business owners operating
elsewhere in Pham Ngu Lao, and for
many there is a widespread sense of relief.
The sidewalks were originally cleared in
November 2013. The idea was to create

walking space, a place to breathe, and to let
the traffic flow freely on Bui Vien. But within
a couple of weeks they were packed again
and the chairs quickly reappeared.
The problem was not so much the
overflowing thoroughfares although they
are frustrating for anyone trying to drive or
walk from one end of Bui Vien to the other.
Instead it was the competition. As owner
after owner attests, the bia hoi on the street
was being sold so cheaply that it affected the
rest of the bars and restaurants in the area.
How can you compete?
Battling for Survival

Most of the restaurants in this area dont
have enough customers because a lot of
people were going to Bui Vien and sitting on

the street, says Tran Thi Thanh, otherwise
known as Chi from Chis Caf. There they
could drink beer for VND12,000.
Although shes frustrated by what was the
equivalent of dumping predatory pricing,
below the costs others in the market can
bear Chi has created her own mini empire.
Without it, like other restaurant and bar
owners in the area, she would struggle.
First on the Pham Ngu Lao scene in 1999
when she found a job working for her cousin,
who at the time ran Caf Van, Chi didnt
speak a word of English and much to the
frustration of her cousins English husband,
was constantly making mistakes. 15 years
later, Chi owns two restaurants, a hotel with
12 rooms and 300 motorbikes, all for rental.
66 | Word April 2014
Just wanted to say I enjoyed the mag this month. MW, Danang Hoi An Expats
Facebook group
April 2014 Word | 67
Havent seen a print copy but checked it out online. Looks cool! Thanks for the press.
Shaun Stevens, Da Nang Food Tour
Clockwise from top left: A former street vendor on Bui Vien; the upstairs jungle-like space at
Wrap & Roll in De Tham; JJs fish and chips on De Tham; Chi at her new restaurant, Sisters Cafe; the
Burrito Revolution, formerly on Bui Vien
13 or 14 years ago, maybe around this

area there were 10 different restaurants, not
many, she recalls. Caf Van, Saigon Caf,
Margarita and Sinh Caf. Now its grown so
much. The quality of the food has improved
a little bit, not much. But the design is
getting better, nicer.
Part of the change to the area has been
the arrival of the food chains the likes
of Subway, Wrap & Roll and Burger King
are in the area, and McDonalds is about to
follow.
Says Mark McGrath, the development
agent for Subway, the arrival of the
food chains has been part of a general
expansion. Around the millennium, The
Pham stretched down De Tham only as
far as the crossroads with Bui Vien. Now it
encompasses a much larger space.
Geographically the areas getting
bigger, he explains, which bodes well for
tourism. Expats often say they dont want to
go down [to The Pham], but they still head
down there once in a while. There are more
foreign-style bars, more food options, more
hotel rooms. In every scale, everything has
grown.
However, so has the rent. For many
business owners in the area, this is the
biggest problem they face in their quest for
survival.
Its become more expensive, says Chi.
I used to rent Caf Van for VND6 million
a month. Now that place is [over VND60
million] per month. But the menu prices are
all still similar. We still make profit but the
WOAH The Calligrapher is such a beautiful piece. It

made me so sad/happy at the end of it. KM
rent is the boss. I think because lots of travel

agents, whatever the rent is, they just pay it.
So thats why every year [the landlords] just
put the price up.
Adds Mark. [The area] is still one of the
most affordable places in the city. For a beer,
food and a hotel room, its as affordable as
it was eight or 10 years ago. This definitely
gives it its appeal.
However, theres a difference between
affordability and, as with the bia hoi joints,
being too affordable.
A New Era?
Its now the end of March and once again I
drive down Bui Vien. First during the day
and later, at night. The contrast is stark. The
ambience, the electricity and all the revelers.
The people arent all gone those who
venture down to The Pham are still there,
theyve just moved indoors.
Its good for the businesses that dont
rely on trade coming from customers
sitting on street. And its good for the
ones who are paying the high rent and
struggling to survive even those who
are doing a roaring trade. And it certainly
gives the area some welcome breathing
space.
But as one Bui Vien regular laments,
its like the place has gone back a decade.
Although he understands the rhyme and
very solid reason behind the change, it
seems that an era of streetside hedonism
may be over. Whether it will stay this way
remains to be seen.
Most of the restaurants in this area

dont have enough customers because
a lot of people were going to Bui Vien
and sitting on the street
68 | Word April 2014
April 2014 Word | 69
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC
VIETNAM EDITION
APRIL 2014
Really great to see something on Danang. Its too

often the forgotten city. DB
The Rise and Fall of The Pham

(April 2014)
Very weak article. Sounded like you were
taking the side of the authorities. The whole
area is now a laughing stock. I had visitors in
town recently and couldnt even take them
down there, I was so embarrassed. RR
Interesting piece. Yes, I agree with you.
The bia hoi places were taking it too far. Not
surprised everything got closed down. JK
Youre putting a lot of weight behind your words

saying that La Maison 1888 is the best restaurant in
Vietnam. Not quite sure if I agree with you. But very
bold anyway. JC
I think you had such a good experience at La Maison
1888 because they all knew you were there. Personally
I thought it was overpriced. Now, as for the resort that
place is in That place is special. TN
NH XUT BN LAO NG
The Talk
The End of
Laissez-Faire
Change is inevitable. The problem is that not everyone likes it
ast month, we ran

a feature on the
changing face of Bui
Vien April 2014s
Rise and Fall of the Pham.
In it, we found some good
effects to the changes of Bui
Viens street culture, to go
along with the inevitable
wistful regrets. Over the
month, outcry (theyre
ruining everything that
people like about this
country!) subsided, and
people adjusted to a new,
quieter Bui Vien.
Then Hoi An began
charging to enter its famous
old town strip. From Apr.
1, ticket booths were set
up at every entrance to the
old town besides the
ones cleverly accessed by
ferrying coracles and
management of them
tightened so people could
no longer slip through
untaxed. At the time we
went to print, it seems that
the rules had been relaxed.
But its the thought that
counts, and increasingly
the thought seems to be
more centrally determined.
Both of these moves had
easy-to-follow logics
about them and both were
designed to bring about a
more developed future
whether through setting the
table for a higher rate tourist
district or channeling more tourist dollars
into infrastructure.
Yet not everyone wants a developed
Vietnam, one that enforces rules like its
trading partners overseas. Some still want
to live in the Wild East.
The Cost of Convenience

Recently, a traffic light near my house
stopped moonlighting as a blinking yellow
light. Now it stays a regular metered light
at all hours, stranding unlucky late night
drivers by its empty intersection for nearly
a minute.
I asked my friends on Facebook whether
theyve been stopping. Their reactions:
Vy: I think I will. Rule is rule, dont follow?

Get caught? Get fined!
Colin: I go slowly, see if theres any one
coming, if so, I stop, if not I go.
Huyen: certainly you need to stop. should
follow the law :)))
Jack: In Saigon you never stop, you just
slow down a little.
If this is the end of an era, not everyones
taking it in stride.
The Give-and-Take of Progress

Just down the street from the now-fully
functioning traffic light lies Hem 18A
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, informally known
in Ho Chi Minh City as the expat alley
for the large number

of expats living in
month-to-month
arrangements there.
For the past month
and change, fourwheeled vehicle
traffic has been
banned from 4pm
to 8pm every night.
From a pedestrians
perspective, this
has been a 'give' in
the give-and-take
of progress. The
alley now keeps its
street culture charms
through the busiest
time of day.
In Hanoi, this
pedestrianisation
movement has taken
greater hold, with
Old Quarter streets
like Ma May and in
particular Ta Hien
following a regimen
of nightly weekend
traffic closures, even
to motorbikes. Unlike
in Hoi An and on Bui
Vien except for the
odd bar owner it
doesnt seem like
anyones complaining.
(NB: Parking remains
an issue.)
Some parts of this
progress affect more
than quality of life
and convenience
witness the forthcoming teardowns of
architectural landmarks like 213 Dong
Khoi in Ho Chi Minh City but theyre
all part of the Hong Kong-esque omelette
Vietnam seems intent on making of itself.
And to make a Hong Kong-sized omelette,
you have to crack a few building-sized
eggs.
For better or worse, it seems Vietnam is
moving forward, to a more efficient and
more regulated future. And if we have
to take more detours and stop at more
traffic lights to get there, it should still
prove worth the journey. The days when
no-one wore motorbike helmets lie in an
increasingly distant past. Ed Weinberg
1.
the big five
ASEAN PRIDE
The ASEAN Fest is in its second year, and

if this collaboration between the American
Embassy and CAMA is anything like last
year, its going to be one of the best things
Hanoi has ever seen. With nine acts from five
ASEAN member states on the bill, it should
be a beautiful happening to share with the
projected 2,000 other people in attendance.
ASEAN PRIDE > Celebrating Diversity
comes to The American Club, (21 Hai Ba Trung,
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi) on May 24, going from 1pm
to midnight. Tickets purchased in advance from
CAMA ATK (73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Hanoi) or ticketbox.vn cost VND320,000
VND400,000 on the door. Free entrance for
ASEAN nationals with ID. For more information,
visit cama-atk.com, or see our feature on page 80
3.
2.
The Cairos
Although Vietnam has plenty

of sun, the sun-drenched
indie pop options here
are lacking. Thats why
Australian four-piece The
Cairos have elected to make
the trip, with stops at Cargo
Bar (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, HCMC) and in Hanoi
(details TBD). Accustomed
to sharing the stage with the
likes of Julian Casablancas, at
Cargo theyll be teaming with
local fuzz-punk upstarts, The
Secret Asians.
For the Cargo show, its May
17 VND150,000 advance,
VND200,000 at the door, free
entry for students with ID. The
Hanoi show is still TBD
4.
Everyones a DJs 5th

Anniversary
So this is more a save-the-date than

actual info, but heres what we know
about EADJs upcoming five-year
anniversary:
Andy Rourke, the former bassist of
The Smiths, is DJing
EADJ has thrown five years of some
of the best parties Saigon has had to offer,
bringing in international stars when noone was doing so, and generally giving
party-goers something to look forward to
several times a month
Their anniversary last year was
awesome, and this should be even better
EADJs fifth anniversary is on May
23, details still TBD. Stay tuned to
everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com and
soon you will know even more than we do
Apocalaughs Now!
Saigons own international stand-up show

returns to Cargo Bar (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, HCMC) May 14 with a night designed
to give you a severe dose of bellyache.
Taking to the stage as part of their
Southeast Asian tour are two well-travelled
and even more well-loved Canadian comics
Pat Burtscher and Paul Myrehaug. Also
propping up more than just the bar will
be comics from the local amateur scene
organised by Stand-Up Saigon. Expect a
night of mirth, giggles and some dark, dark
yet wonderfully accessible comedy.
The entrance surcharge is VND250,000 and
includes a free Magners Original Cider. This show
is getting quite a reputation, so for table bookings
reserve early. Simply email saigoncomedynights@
gmail.com. Apocalaughs Now! is run in
conjunction with Comedy Club Asia
5.
Vietnams Best Restaurant Gets Two Michelin Stars Better
What happens when you combine three

Michelin stars with two more? We dont
know, but it seems like something to throw
down on. From May 27 to May 29, the
InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula
Resort will host a historic collaboration
that of resident three Michelin star chef
Michel Roux and the visiting two Michelin
star chef Giancarlo Pebellini. Featuring a
multi-signature dish set menu, this collision

of the best in French and Italian cuisines
is unprecedented and its happening in
Vietnam.
The InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula
Resorts 4 Hands Dinner is on from May 27
to May 29, and costs VND6.3 million++ per
person. For more information or to book, click
on danang.intercontinental.com/la-maison-1888
wordvietnam.com | May 2014 Word | 11
brief ings
We Went There:
The Driving License
Almost everything you need to know about getting
a driving license in Vietnam
keep on hearing negative things about foreigners

trying to apply for a Vietnamese driving license. It
only lasts the length of your visa. The paperwork
is a nightmare. You have to redo all the paperwork
each time you renew your visa.
So, after years of having other people do my Vietnam
paperwork on my behalf, I decided to try it out for
myself. Is the importance of having that laminated card
counteracted by how difficult it is to actually obtain?
As a foreigner living in Vietnam, there are three
routes to getting a driving license and they are based on
whether or not you have a license back home. However,
it was only after I actually went to the various centres
involved in licensing that I got the true story. The
information online is not entirely correct one website
that prides itself on having good information even has
all the phone numbers wrong. Here is what you need to
know.
For those with no license overseas: You will

need to take both written and practical exams to get a
two-wheel or four-wheel driving license in Vietnam. The
written exam is in Vietnamese.
For those with a car driving license
overseas: You can exchange your car driving license
overseas for a temporary Vietnamese version. However,

yes, its true this only lasts for the length of your visa
or resident permit. So, unless youre genuinely going
to drive a car in Vietnam, this is not worth doing. What
the overseas license does allow you is the possibility of
taking the test for a motorbike license without having to
do the written test, which is in Vietnamese. A two-wheel
license has no expiry date. It lasts for life. It is the four-wheel
license that is restricted.
For those with both a car and motorbike

license overseas: Here you can simply exchange
your license for a Vietnamese version. However, unless

youre genuinely going to drive a car in Vietnam, only
exchange your motorbike license. As mentioned above,
the two-wheel license has no expiry date. Add a fourwheel license to it, and you have to renew everything
once your visa and resident card expires.
The Paperwork
My first port of call was the photo shop I got six 3x4cm
passport photos taken. Then I had all my documents
photocopied passport, resident card, driving license.
A separate, double-sided copy for each document. To

make sure that nothing went wrong, I got two copies
of each document. I then headed to the Department of
Transport (63 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, HCMC / 16 Cao Ba Quat,
Ba Dinh Hanoi). If you have to take a driving test, you do
not make your application here. All you do is pick up an
application form.
From here I went to get all my documents notarised,
and my overseas driving license translated into
Vietnamese. In Ho Chi Minh City go to the Notary Office
(97 Pasteur, Q1), in Hanoi go to Cong ty Dich Thuat Van
Vu (39/11 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem). It takes 24 hours
and the cost in Ho Chi Minh City was VND140,000.
While youre waiting for your overseas license,
its a good idea to get your passport and (if you have
it) resident card notarised. These dont need to be
translated. This is done at the Peoples Committee
Building in Saigon (47 Le Duan, Q1) or the Notary Office
(310 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung) in Hanoi. The cost? I paid
VND4,000 per notarisation.
The next step in Ho Chi Minh City (if you are going
to take the driving test) is to have a health check. For
Hanoi weve received conflicting information some
say you need a health check at a hospital on Ly Thuong
Kiet, others say you dont. So best to ask when you make
your application. In Saigon this means going to yet
another Department of Transport office (252 Ly Chinh
Thang, Q3, HCMC). It cost me VND40,000 and took five
minutes. If you only need to change your overseas license
for a temporary Vietnamese version, then this can be
done at the same office. For the equivalent in Hanoi, go
to the Cao Ba Quat office (see above).
The Test
Armed with all your notarised paperwork and health
certificate, the final step in Ho Chi Minh City is to go
to the Driving Test Centre (111 Tan Son Nhi, Tan Phu).
This is where you make your test application. I have
a UK driving license, so my test cost VND350,000 and
was at another centre 71/3/38 Che Lan Vien, Tan
Phu, HCMC. In Hanoi, the application can be made at
the Centre for Automotive Training and Mechanism
(83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem). The test centre in
downtown Hanoi is at 1 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da.
I took my test on one balmy Saturday morning at 8am,
drove my beautiful figure-of-eight on a bike provided
by the centre. Now I have to wait a month for my final,
lifetime motorbike license. Ill let you know when I
receive it. Nick Ross
brief ings
Light shows projected onto

important cultural buildings
are all the rage in Vietnam.
Photos by Teresa Wealleans
amilies and young couples crowd

around the thousand-year-old temple,
strobe lights and electronic beats
cutting across the darkness. Leaning
over the stone moat, they watch bamboo
logs projected on the temple walls, shifting
in time with the ocean of sound.
This festival is the biggest event of the
year for residents of Binh Da Village, a
rural area that became part of the capital in
2008 but still retains its sleepy, countryside
feel. Most local families have lived here for
centuries, and even though the village is
only a 40-minute drive from central Hanoi,
children still get excited when they see a
foreign face. Dedicated to celebrating the
death anniversary of legendary king Lac
Long Quan, the festival typically features
traditional games and music although
in the past few years these have given way
to bouncy castles and cotton candy stands.
This year, in a bid for the government to
recognise the temple as a national heritage
site, local authorities collaborated with
The Light Show

researchers from the Viet Nam Institute of
Culture and Arts Studies to organize the
light show.
A Space Odyssey
The phrase light show doesnt really do
justice to the event. (One guesses theres no
direct Vietnamese translation for abstract
contemporary video projection.) A visitor
stumbling upon the show would see a
series of images projected on the walls of
the recently rebuilt temple, accompanied
by a soundtrack by Tri Minh. Flames leap
across the walls and bronze wheels spin
in colourful curlicues, while an announcer
recounts the history of the temple in a
Morgan Freeman-like baritone. The overall
effect is a trippy spectacle that feels oddly
mesmerizing, like a mash-up of 2001: A Space
Odyssey and Fantasia.
Theres also a striking similarity to the Ho
Chi Minh City light show in December 2013
at the Reunification Palace. Organised by the
French Consulate as part of the celebrations
of 40 years of diplomatic ties between France

and Vietnam, the two nights of performances
told the story of Vietnam from the countrys
inception 4,000 years ago through to the
modern day. So successful was the show
that it closed down city-centre streets and
attracted well over 200,000 people.
Will the Binh Da version get the temple
heritage status? It certainly makes the event
more attractive to young people, like Dinh
Cong Quang, a recent graduate from the
Forestry University, who lingers on a bench
as the crowd dissipates. Ive seen the show
three times already, says Quang, who lives
100 metres away and comes to the festival
every year. Its the first time Ive seen
something like this.
Across the stone moat, Nguyen Dinh
Dong, whose family has lived in the village
for generations, waits for the evenings next
showing. Ive never heard of a light show.
When I was young, we played traditional
games with pebbles, he says. But its
interesting. Elisabeth Rosen
brief ings
I want them to learn from wrestling that
hard work pays off, the connection between
training, preparation and success. I hope
they make the same connection between
schoolwork and grades, Joe says.
Some at VAS doubted that fifth-graders
could handle the sport. I am still a bit
concerned about its dangerous nature, says
Vo Dieu, Head Teacher at VAS Binh Thanh.
But Joes passion and safety-first approach
convinced them. It was unanimous at the
end, she says. Joe showed us how well he
could run the club. And no injuries of any
kind have occurred.
Joe suspends students for rule-breaking,
especially involving safety. Many students
cry when told they cant practise for a day,
he says. Misbehaviour rarely happens twice.
These boys value the sport too much.
Future Champions
Wrestling
with Scholars
At one of Ho Chi Minh Citys international schools, a

new tradition grows one of preparation, hard work
and the occasional body slam. Photo by Kyle Phanroy
hey practise in a lobby filled with

safety mats, a dozen stocky fifthgrade Vietnamese boys and,
towering above, their coach. In the
centre, two boys grapple. Then, a quick
low shot, and one boys back smacks
softly into the mat. A shuffle of limbs, and
the boy below is pinned.
Look at that! coach Joe Deka says. A
perfect double-leg takedown! I havent even
taught that yet!
Its Fridays lunchtime practice at
Vietnam-Australia International Schools
new western wrestling programme
apparently the first among Ho Chi Minh
Citys international schools.
VAS encourages teachers to run
extracurricular programmes. Learning this

his first day teaching ESL at the schools Binh
Thanh campus in January, Joe wondered
what unique activity he could offer. Two
kids tussling nearby sparked a light-bulb
moment. A high-school wrestler in Indiana,
US, the former US Marine has never lost his
passion for the sport.
We inspire students with our passion,
he says.
Kicking Butt... The Safe Way

But wrestling? He had doubts. I
immediately regretted it. In Vietnam, the
only exposure to wrestling is WWE.
VAS required he show wrestlings
character-building benefits to students.
Whatever the schools reservations,

wrestling attracted students. More than the
20-per-club maximum signed up within an
hour of registration beginning, including
many girls, a few of whom are now
informally wait-listed.
The wrestlers love the class, and their
comments show how deeply it and Joe have
affected them in its two-month run.
My favourite part of class is learning new
techniques... and Mr. Dekas songs, says Vu,
age 11, a student in the class. Maybe in the
future I will teach it to my children and my
family.
Long, 10, says simply, I want to be a
wrestler like Mr. Deka. Others chorus
agreement.
Practice Makes Perfect

Class begins with calisthenics. Kids were
over-excited in the first lessons, quick to
charge in. The exercise focuses them. Joe
chants and sings, and students wobble
through sit-ups and push-ups.
Practice is full of kids laughter and
constant happy shouting. Joe demonstrates
techniques before students pair off, drilling
one or two moves. Joe circles, calling advice
and encouragement.
Im really proud of my school for giving
me the opportunity to share this with the
kids, Joe says. Nowhere else Ive worked
would they have allowed it.
The city may be glad VAS allowed it,
too. Varied school programmes like this
help make Ho Chi Minh City more viable
as a place to get a strong, well-rounded
education, giving children the extracurricular opportunities that are taken for
granted overseas.
After all, if theres one thing we can all
agree on, East or West, its the occasional
need to slap a little sense into our fellow
man. Whether we do it with the Five Flaming
Mandarin Fingers of Death, a Glasgow Kiss or
the classical moves Joe demos, it reminds
us that we are all physical beings, and that
truth unites us far more than creed, culture
or colour could ever divide us. Owen
Salisbury
brief ings
The Voting
Last month we pitched three martial arts fighters from Saigon

against three rivals from Hanoi. Heres how you voted
hen we ran our Rumble in the

Jungle article in April, profiling
fighters from both Hanoi and
Ho Chi Minh City in a virtual
contest that only appeared in print and
online, we asked you, our readers, to vote.
Part of it was fun. You would read the
article, behave like both the judge and
the jury, and decide who would win each
fight. We tried to make ourselves sound
like announcers at a fight night, hamming
up each bout and trying to get you, the
Ladies and Gentlemen, personally
involved in the article.
But we were also intrigued. How would
you vote? Would you vote because you
genuinely thought one fighter was better
than the other? Or would it be tribal
people living in Hanoi voting for fighters
from Hanoi, and the same with Ho Chi
Minh City? Or perhaps the fighters would
canvas votes in an attempt to get some
one-upmanship on their rivals up north or
down south?
As we discovered, most people voted

because of their personal loyalties
loyalty to the city in which they lived,
loyalty to the people they knew. Very
few of you voted for the fighters based
on whom you thought would win each
contest. And there were certainly those
who worked harder than others to drum
up support.
So with almost 200 votes in, here are
the results and some of the comments we
received:
The Comments
Vietfighter is great! Strength and
conditioning classes are fun and super
effective! A special thanks to Matt who
comes up with new exercises every session
and encourages everyone to work hard
and improve! SR
If I had to choose I think that Ngan
should win. She is everything a fighter
should be. Out of the ring she is kind,
generous and respectful. In the ring she

is fierce, cunning and is well... just plain
strong. She is 90 pounds and proves that
size doesnt matter. I should know I
have been on the receiving end of some of
her strikes. JA
I dont know how many people I can vote
for, but its Hanois reps in every fight!
ST
I vote for Cyril Terrones because he has
helped me totally transform my body. He
is the best. G
Cyril is the best fitness coach ever. He
makes me feel able to compete in sport
again and feel better, week by week.
Anon by SMS
My vote is for Trinh the dagger Thien.
Ive seen some of her fights and she is
fantastic. She has the skills for a Hollywood
blockbuster. Anon by SMS
The Votes
Here is how they turned out:
Fight A: Long The Doctor Nguyen (22) vs.

Dave Multi-Disciplined Menne (17)
Fight B: Matt Ice Cold Pavia (15) vs.

Cyril The Uppercut Terrones (86)
Fight C: Ngan The Dragon Nghiem (37) vs.

Trinh The Dagger Thien (17)
So, the winners are:
Winner by majority decision:

Long Hanoi / Vietfighter
Brazilian jiu-jitsu and Muay Thai
Third-round knockout:
Cyril Ho Chi Minh City /
Cyril and You Boxing
Thanks for taking part!
Winner by unanimous decision:

Ngan Hanoi / Vietfighter Kickboxing,
Muay Thai, Boxing and Brazilian jiu-jitsu
brief ings
t some point in my
travels, I remember
getting around Siem
Reap in a tuktuk to
visit the temples of Angkor
Wat. And while the temples
themselves were breathtaking,
I remember finishing the tour
and thinking, Phew one day
in that contraption is plenty!
So upon learning three
California women had travelled
from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City
by that very method of transport,
the first question that came to
mind upon meeting them at an
Easter potluck was: Why?
With their tuktuk visible in
the parking lot from the balcony,
the travel mates recounted the
events while making a chocolatepeanut butter egg and relaxing
after their three-week journey.
Chelsea Blandford and Emily
Curtis were already travelling
Southeast Asia when they
reached Hanoi, awaiting the
arrival of Breezie Dueber. Once
she arrived, the three friends set
about planning an adventure.
We said, We need a big
adventure for this trip, Chelsea
says. And Emily said, what do
you think about a tuktuk?
Emily had travelled in tuktuks
in Thailand, but soon discovered
getting her hands on one in
Vietnam is easier said than done.
While cyclos and xe oms are
common, the tuktuks in Hanoi
are designated for ownership by
war veterans. This presented a
significant hurdle to their plan.
I was having such a hard
time finding a tuktuk, Chelsea
says. We had many meetings
about how to do it.
The friends approached staff
at Hanoi Motorbikes, who were
intrigued about the possibility
of building one from scratch.
After considerable planning
and redesigns, two-and-a-half
weeks later the final result
bore a closer resemblance to
a canopied trailer hitched
to a Honda Wave. Yet it was
deemed ready for the road.
A Good Idea?
Fate smiled on the trio, in a
roundabout way. Their first and
most serious incident of the
journey took place as they were
just leaving Hanoi city limits,
with luggage strapped to the
roof of the tuktuk.
I hit a bump and it felt like
I popped a wheelie, Chelsea
says. The rig up-ended, as she
was pulled backwards and
The Ride
Was Bumpy
Travelling by an improvised tuktuk, three American women did
a typical journey in an atypical way and lived to tell the tale.
landed her on her back, with the
motorbike following landing
right on top of her.
After verifying she and friends
were uninjured, the Hanoi
Motorbikes crew came quickly
and took the motorbike to a
garage for welding on the spot.
Despite the initial setback, the
group remained committed
theyd come too far to not try
and complete the trip.
I kind of stopped and said
is this a good idea? Chelsea
recalls.
The Road Less Travelled

The best system for the rest of
the 1,600km-plus undertaking
wound up being two riding on
the motorbike at any given time,

with another passenger sitting
in the wagon and keeping an
eye on luggage. Getting lost in
rush hour in Danang, navigating
harrowing mountain passes
and meeting countless curious
onlookers whod never seen such
a travelling contingent all made
the experience memorable.
I had never ridden a
motorbike before, Breezie says.
It was a really intense trip.
[We learned through] all of
our struggles that we were really
able to support each other.
Upon arrival in Ho Chi
Minh City, the women used
social media to both find
accommodation (Couchsurfing)
and sell their tuktuk (Facebook).

And while Breezie is headed
back Stateside, her two friends
have decided they like Vietnam
so much they plan to find work
in Hanoi.
Ive seen how beautiful
Vietnam is, and every stop
everybody helped us, Chelsea
says.
As for whether theyd
recommend this method of
travel across an entire country,
Emily says would-be tuktuktakers should really think it
through before they give it a try.
Id say its for people who are
open-minded and can endure
a lot of bumps in the road.
Harry Hodge
brief ings
The Motocross Track

Trail bike enthusiasts in Hanoi have a new playground
re you sure were not

already on the track? I call
out as we weave up and
down ravines and through
vegetable fields. It rained the night before
and the dirt road is slippery.
No, but it could be, couldnt it? says Alex.
Weve already left An Duong, the dyke
road and the Sofitel Metropole behind us
and are weaving our way towards the Red
River. I dont know what Im expecting.
Some sort of stadium? Pre-built fences? An
entrance and an exit? How much would
entrance cost? I remember wondering the
night before. Would there be bikes to rent?
Were close to Central Hanoi, so its not
unreasonable to expect something built
with a fair amount investment ploughed
in. But then for all the construction, Central
Hanoi is still akin to a village, especially
by the Red River where it filters out into
vegetable fields and banana plantations.
Here we are in the countryside, only a fiveminute drive from town.
When we arrive I realise Id been
building this up too much. In typical
Hanoi style what greets me is makeshift,
very makeshift: a start banner, an empty
hut with a reclining chair, a quilt-patched
house, three dogs and a brown-earth, sandy
motocross dirt track. No embellishments.

Just the track, all its humps and bumps, and
little else.
We literally had to carve the track out
of the sand, Alex tells me as we walk the
course. Again, and again, up and down. You
need to make the grooves with your tyres.
Underground
As with so many things in Hanoi, I heard
about the new motocross track through a
series of whispers. A couple of months back
someone mentioned that something was
being built. Now at the end of April, Ive
been told its ready. Two months ready.
Theres still a lot of improvements to
come, says motorbike enthusiast David Beo
the day before. But yeah, its a good start.
Alex is quick to point out the KTM logo
everywhere.
Its a clever move, he says. Theyve

got involved with the track from the start
and have helped sponsor it.
Ive yet to see the track in action,
although a few days before I went drag
racing with the guys from KUB Caf
further down the river on the sand. The
bikes were slipping and sliding, the
riders, teeth clenched in determination,
were falling and climbing back on as they
skidded around the makeshift circuit. The
earth on the motorcross track is almost the
same.
As Alex says, You should see these guys
go. Theyre so goddam fast.
The action generally takes place at the
weekends. Expect it to be explosive.
Nick Ross
To get to the track follow An Duong past Chez
Xuan and then go straight, straight and straight
brief ings
Grindhouse Party
U
In the dingy digs of

Bui Viens Me and You
Bar, subculture moves
to the throbbing din
of dubstep
p until two months ago, the vibrancy

of Saigons backpacker district was
obvious. Driving down Bui Vien at
night, plastic chairs and indiscriminate
pedestrians would squeeze traffic down one
lane of alternating passage. Horn blasts could
barely be heard above the noise of people
drinking beers, practising English and telling
travel stories.
Fast forward to present day and the landscape
has changed. The plastic chairs have been replaced
by cloth bags, and the hottest places are now
the ones that cater less to street beer-craving
backpackers and more to hip, hookah-puffing
Vietnamese drinkers. To the untrained eye, it
seems the party has moved on.
Where This Leaves Expats

Expats have long had a funny relationship with
Bui Vien. When Thi Caf stopped being a prime
live music option, they sighed relief. No longer
would they have to put up with goony travellers,
and the inevitable associations their countrymen
brought with them.
Where some now saw ghost town Bui Vien as
a definite stayaway, Will Henley and Liv Genesis
saw opportunity for a grimy club night out of
the ordinary.
It began with the idea of putting a night on
somewhere different to the places I normally go to
hear good tunes in Ho Chi Minh City, says Will.
Id heard about Me and You Bar from a friend,
whod ended up having an impromptu party there
late one night. She said it was amazingly kitsch
and fun. I went to check it out, got a good vibe
from it and decided to go with it from there.
For those who dont know, Me and You Bar is a
seedy bar of a certain type, the type most young,
party-going expats dont normally find themselves
at. Will and Liv missed this type of weird party,
and on Apr. 11 they made it happen.
Ugly But Good
The night of dub, dubstep, garage, breaks, house,

jungle and drum and bass was called Ugly But
Good the bars neon-lit tagline. I thought
it perfectly summed up everything about the
place, Will says. I couldnt imagine calling the
night anything else.
If it caught party-goers by surprise, the bar
owners and ladies on shift were even more
surprised. Sat outside were a couple of nightshifters, who some of the attending gentlemen
recognised from chancy winks on previous
strolls past. A gum seller also found her way to
the party, and seemed to feel quite at home as
she went about selling her wares with a bit more
aggression than her shy-at-first friends.
Through all the weirdness, it worked. DJaround-town Joey T switched it up from his
usual, alongside the nights founders and Sander
& Renier. Joey T liked it. I was able to play a
very different set to many other gigs that I play,
delving into 1990s amen break and ragga jungle,
classic UK garage and some instrumental grime.
Id call it a pretty dark and very London sound.
I really enjoyed the fact I could get away with
playing all these tunes from my childhood raver
days!
The ladies got off their stools and started
mixing it up, and everyone seemed to appreciate
the change-of-pace. And maybe this kind of
experimentation will become the norm.
Me and You Bar are keen to have us back and
Im excited about doing another [party] already,
Will says. Hopefully we can build on the success
of the first and establish something new and
exciting for Saigon nightlife in this part of town.
Ed Weinberg
Forward Slash Will Henley and Liv Genesiss
event company is putting on another round of
Ugly But Good on May 9, at Me and You Bar, 165 Bui
Vien, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City
brief ings
studied Buddhism from an Englishspeaking monk in Chua Quan Su in

the late 1990s, says Suzette Mitchell.
The genuine serenity and simple
beauty in his face, voice and calm presence
inspired me to be a better person.
It was this inspiration, says the former Vietnam
head of UNIFEM, that led her to attempt to
strive towards Buddhist practice. And it was the
particular aesthetic of Buddhist philosophy, its
poetic nature, that makes her feel that sitting
in a pagoda is more soothing and meditative than
anywhere else.
The photos in Suzettes exhibition Now and Then
will be launched at Module 7 in Hanoi on Sunday
May 25. Taken during a decade of extensive
travels throughout Southeast Asia, they depict
monks and nuns in various locations around
the region. Through the exhibition, she hopes to
inspire a moment of reflection on being in the
present, which is the focus of Buddhism.
To me [the images] represent great discipline,
wisdom, spirituality and the goal of peace and
equanimity, which is what we all spend our lives
and salaries chasing, she explains. Yet often
it remains elusive through our business and
consumerism. We are constantly feeding a need
for satisfaction, which has already been achieved
in these images.
Now and Then will be launched at Module 7,
83 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi, at 5pm on Sunday
May 25. Guests will be greeted with prayer beads,
green tea and pagoda food. The profits will go to the
charitable work of the Venerable Thich Dinh Quan
of Dinh Quan Pagoda, which provides support for
poor cancer patients, disabled children, orphans and
poor rural students coming to Hanoi to sit university
entrance exams
Now is When
A unique photo exhibition is coming to Hanoi at the end of May
Definitely Maybe
Furball of the Month: Daisy

Though most veterinarians will deny
that theres any link between colouring
and personality, most tortie owners will
disagree completely. Black cats seem pretty
sedate, if a bit aloof, gray cats tend to be
very friendly, orange or ginger cats often are
very affectionate, tabby cats are playful and
torties are weird... They will tell you when
they want to be fed, they will tell you when
they wish to be petted and woe to he that
will not obey the little angels commands!
And Daisy is certainly a little energetic
oddball, running around, climbing on

things, nuzzling legs and leaving little hairs
all around. Somethings driving her, whether
its a strange smell or just a general case of
the crazies. Shes going to get into trouble.
As the commenter wrote in closing, You
cannot tame a tortoiseshell. You can only
choose to be amused.
Shes active, spayed, fully vaccinated and
waiting for you to take her home today.
Contact arcpets@gmail.com to make your date
with kitty destiny.
Photo by Francis Xavier
o Chi Minh Citys Animal Rescue

& Care is the proud host of a cat
at the top of everyones adoption
wishlists, Daisy. But, before you
think about adopting a tortoiseshell
cat like Daisy, you should know about
tortitude.
Tortitude (adj.) a temperament
unique to tortoiseshell-coloured cats, which
sometimes makes them crazy, batty, cocoloco
or just plain weird.
As a Yahoo! Answers commenter wrote,
Ho Chi minh city

what s on
Dragonfly Theatre Asks:
Whos the Real Madman?
In the award-winning West End play Blue/
Orange, a psychiatric patient confuses his
doctors with a claim that he is the son of an
African dictator. Should he be locked up or
released?
In this Laurence Olivier-winning sarcastic
comedy, questions of race, mental illness
and community responsibility are pondered
as energetic West End newcomers to the
Dragonfly stage Ryan Burkwood and Peter
Muruako pace about. Regular Aaron Toronto
will also be on-hand to give the production a
little of the Dragonfly magic.
Blue/Orange will be performed at Cargo Bar
7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 four times from May
16 to May 18. Tickets are available from ticketbox.
vn for VND300,000 until May 12, after which
theyll be available at the door for VND350,000
Dream Pop and Spacy Synths

On the eve of its fifth anniversary,
Everyones a DJ is throwing a BBQ
blitzkrieg in the airy confines of Sunday
afternoon at La Fenetre Soleil, featuring
Swedish dream pop trio Postiljonen and
everybodys favourite panthers, Space
Panther. Postiljonen are stopping here
on their way to North Korea, and Space
Panther is always a threat to just float out
into the sky. DJ Superkid will be laying
down the foundation all day and all night.
Postiljonen and Space Panther will be playing
May 11 at La Fenetre Soleil (44 Ly Tu Trong,
Q1), from 4pm till late. Entry is VND200,000
Electronic Music Production

DJ Mark Rodgers aka Sonic Uprising
is now opening up his home studio to
aspiring mix-masters. Learn the secrets of
synthesis, MIDI, sequencing and mixing, get
the theory and the hands-on experience. In
small classes, this BSc in Sound Technologyholding, Higher National Diploma in Audio
Engineering-learned producer will have you
dubstepping it up in no time.
Contact mark@sonicuprising.com for more
info. Courses run VND3.16 million per 10-hour
programme, open and tailored to anyone from
beginner to advanced
Full Moon Critical Mass

Brazilian World Cup
Raindance
Canvas & Wine

May brings two relaxed painting classes
at VinSpace not painting flowers, but
instead taking on Landscape Painting, May
8 at VinSpace Garage, and Creative Figure
Painting, May 22 at VinSpace Art Studio.
Head down from 6.30pm to 9pm, and get
ready for a different type of night out.
VinSpace Garage is at 95 Pasteur, Q1;
VinSpace Art Studio is at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2.
For more info, go to vin-space.com
On the eve of World Cup 2014, TDT Event

and Thao Dien Village are reminding
you why youll be rooting for Brazil
after your team loses and theyre still in
play. The Brazilian Consul General will
give his blessings, a Brazilian buffet will
be surrounded by carnival-appropriate
hostesses and the Latin sounds of Luna
Negra will ring out in the night. This is
some powerful magic theyre playing with
if you cant beat em, join em.
TDT and Thao Dien Villages Brazilian Party
is on May 23 at Thao Dien Village (195 Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2). Tickets cost VND350,000,
including a caipirinha. For more info contact
info@tdt-event.com or give Stephanie a ring on
0909 727865
Now that biking has come into its own in

Ho Chi Minh City, the enthusiasts at The
Bike Shop figure maybe its time to take
back the night! Gather with them on the
least crazy night to do this on, this months
full moon on May 16, and get ready to
spread the joy of cycling to some less than
receptive road-sharers. Dont worry, youll
end the night at Frangipani Hoa Sua (26
Le Van Mien, Q2), and all trespassers will
eventually be forgiven, maybe even after
that first free drink.
The 15km D2 JoyRide is on the night of May
16, meeting at The Bike Shop (250 Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2) at 7pm. Bring a helmet, a
bike with lights and a good attitude, and you
too can spread the word! NB: its strongly
suggested that riders under the age of 12 do not
participate, as this is a self-organised ride and
everyone needs to be responsible for their own
safety and well being
May 9: Ugly But Good

Fresh off the kickoff session
chronicled on page 24, Ugly
But Good is set to get better
with Berlin DJ/drum and
bass producer Survey. Hell
spin alongside Joey T, Liv
Genesis, Will Henley, Sander
& Renier and a few keen bar
girls.
Ugly But Good brings the
sleaze on May 9 at Me and You
Bar (165 Bui Vien, Q1). Free
entry
soul grooves, eclectic R&B,

boogie tracks to take you way
back and some slow, slow
smoothness.
Lip Service will seduce you
May 17 at Broma (41 Nguyen
Hue, Q1), VND50,000 entry
May 23: Starchild's

Birthday Extravaganza!
May 10: Groove Control
May 24: Gangster Cat

Haus
For enthusiasts of both funk

and the funky, this night
offers a bit of everything. Dat
Phonk brings the seven-piece
live funk, Foniks indulges
in some live beat-making
and a DJ set, and DJs Joey T
and Starchild will keep you
boogying late into the night.
Groove Control will funk you
up May 10 at The Observatory
(cnr. Le Lai and Ton That Tung,
Q1), VND50,000 entry
DMN SLYR, Will Henley and

Starchild will be dishing out
the uptempo club bangers on
this weird night. An excellent
chance to let your freak flag
fly.
Gangster Cat Haus
saunters into Broma May 24,
VND50,000 entry
May 10: deciBels Two

Year Anniversary
May 17: Lip Service

On this night, Foniks and
Starchild will celebrate the
birthday of the worlds first
supermodel Sweden
magazine bombshell Lisa
Fonssagrives with sultry
May 31: Shades of Jae

Taking its inspiration from a
Moodymann deep house cut
(there cant be more soul in
a house record, ever), Shades
of Jae is DJ Joey Ts chance to
dig into those rare grooves
hes been saving up.
Shades of Jae happens May 31
at Broma, entry is VND50,000
Formula 1 in Singapore
The grand prix in Southeast Asia always draw in big crowds from
around the region, and the 2014 Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix
from Sep. 19 to Sep. 21 is due to be no different.
To help you get there and make your plans well in advance,
Exotissimo are offering up a three-day combination package for
spectators who want to watch the high-speed action on the Marina
Bay Street Circuit, with its spectacular city backdrop.
Starting at VND8,715,000 per person, spectators can book seats
in either the Padang or Bay grandstands or even both, watching the
action as it kicks off on Friday 19th before it comes to its grand finale
on Sunday 21st.
For more information on the range of hospitality and package options
available, contact the Ho Chi Minh City office on (08) 3519 4111,
formula1@exotissimo.com, or the Hanoi office on (04) 3828 2150, tnd@
exotissimo.com
Photo provided by Antonio Aleixo
Its been two years of live

music, free food, Game of
Thrones, bacon-wrapped
prawns and SNES Street
Fighter 2 tournaments at one
of the premiere expat hubs
in the city. Plans to celebrate
their 2nd birthday are
fittingly loose, but you can
bet it will be a good, unusual
night out.
deciBels 2 Year Anniversary
is on May 10 79/2/5 Phan Ke
Binh, Q1. Free entry
Flip to Prime Mover on page

33, or really any of these
other party listings, and
youll see that Starchild is
doing work. May 23 hes
celebrating his birthday in
the only way he knows how,
by bringing the serious funk
with his live band Dat Phonk
and hours upon hours of
primo cuts in his DJ guise.
Come before 11pm and toast
the man with a free shot at
the door.
Starchild's Birthday
Extravaganza! is at La Fenetre
Soleil (44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1) on
May 23. VND50,000 to support
the man who would support you,
you know he would
Photo provided by Singapore GP Pte. Ltd
Dance Parties
Classical Voices
The International Choir and Orchestra of Ho Chi Minh City
is gearing up for their spring concert Classical Voices, at the
Conservatory of Music and RMITs District 7 campus on May 30
and May 31 (the second date is still to be finalised). The 50 choir
members and 30 musicians will be performing Movement 4 from
Brahms Ein Deutches Requiem (How Lovely is Thy Dwelling Place),
Handels Chandos Anthem Number 2, Morten Lauridsens setting of
Ave Maria, Mozarts Trinitatis Mass and a newly transcribed piece by
Michel Richard de Lalande.
There will be three price tiers for tickets VND100,000,
VND300,000 and VND500,000. When asked for clarification, choir
alto Ramona Slusarczyk said, I'm not sure what the differences
entail, I imagine if you pay half a mil you get to sit on the
conductor's lap.
Regardless of where you sit, ICOHCMCs spring concert should
be an affair to remember.
The International Choir and Orchestra of Ho Chi Minh City will
perform their spring concert Classical Voices on Friday, May 30, 7.30pm at
the Conservatory of Music (112 Nguyen Du, Q1), and tentatively at RMIT
(702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7) on May 31, although details for that show
have yet to be finalised. For more information, go to icohcmc.com
Ho Chi minh city

what s on
INTERNATIONAL German School
Open House
In recent years, German and Vietnamese
leaders have made clear their desire for more
cultural exchange, and International German
School IGS is doing the on-the-ground
work. In small classes and even smaller
study groups, individual support is given
in a German-English oriented curriculum,
based on the German-speaking school
system. On the way to preparing students
for upper secondary levels and university,
IGS also shows its students the link between
Vietnamese and German culture, and the
respect both deserve.
IGSs Open House takes place on May
24 from noon to 4pm, and will give parents
and prospective students an opportunity to
learn more about the curriculum, tour the
facilities, meet the teachers and get a taste
of the fun atmosphere IGS offers.
IGSs Open House is on May 24 from noon to
4pm, at their Thao Dien campus, 730 F-G-K Le
Van Mien, Q2. For more info, visit igs-hcmc.de
Changing Your Life And

Others Through Yoga
From May 19 to Jun. 20, Life Bright
International will help you to acquire the
life focus you need to feel comfortable in
your own skin and flow through your life in
the Self Settlement Course. These lofty goals
will be accomplished from 8.15am to 9.45am
Monday and Friday mornings, through
a gentle programme of nourishing yoga,
intentional meditation and soothing breath
work. The course costs VND3.6 million.
From May 19 to Jun. 13, Suzanne Vian
will teach the 200 Hour Yoga Alliance Teacher
Training Course, for passionate students of
yoga who want to deepen their practice,
as well as for those students who wish to
become teachers who inspire. Learn how
to teach with intelligence, confidence and
compassion and how to truly connect with
yourself and your students in a powerful
way. The course costs VND48.53 million,
to be payable in full seven days before the
course starts.
For more info on either course, visit
lifebright.org
The Deck Charity Bazaar

Since 2006, Saigon Charity Bazaar has been
selling Vietnam Quilts, Mekong Creations
and Grace Cookies, all to benefit its
favourite charities The Deck Charity,
Operation Smile and Heart Beat Vietnam.
45 vendors in all will be on-hand to help
you return the favour to yourself and the
loved ones who will love the swag youve
bought for them.
Saigon Charity Bazaar is on May 24 from
10am to 4pm at The Deck, 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2.
For bazaar inquiries, contact donlampel@hotmail.
com
Vietnams Greenest Triathlon

After Marchs grueling Ta Lai Trophy
quadrathlon, organiser Ta Lai Longhouse
has decided to cut its next charges a bit
of slack with the May 31 Le Fruit Off-Road
Triathlon, a race with five age categories,
ranging from six years up to adult. Taking
place on the beach, mountain bike and in
the open water, the races 200 estimated
participants will make ample use of the
Ho Tram Beach shoreline. Once the race is
over, the races pledge to become Vietnams
greenest triathlon kicks in, with a little bit
of a cool-down beach clean.
To register or enquire for more info about the
May 31 race, email info@talai-adventure.vn
Wedding Fair 2014

Youre getting married, and youve
suddenly realised love is not enough.
You also need to entertain people not in
love. This is where Mvenpick Saigons
Wedding Fair 2014 comes into play with
the most prominent wedding brands and
service providers showing what they
can do in the 450-person capacity Grand
Ballroom. Browse wedding cards, rings,
dresses, photography options and makeup
strategies, as you fall prey to a rain of
gifts a crazy lucky draw that might
help you prepare for the unpreparable. In
addition, weddings booked over the events
two days will receive a 10 percent discount
on deposits, and 15 percent off on future
weddings full payment.
The Wedding Fair 2014 runs from Jun. 21
to Jun. 22 at Mvenpick Saigon, 253 Nguyen
Van Troi, Phu Nhuan. For more info, contact
Ms. Dung on (08) 3844 9222 or on dung.ngo@
moevenpick.com
Prime Mover
Justin Hurst
DJ Starchild / Vocals in Dat Phonk
facebook.com/justinstarchild
facebook.com/feeldatphonk
AsiaMotions Summer Adventure Camps

Winners of Marchs Ta Lai Trophy adventure race trophy in Cat
Tien National Park AsiaMotions know how to have fun
in Vietnams most beautiful places. The upcoming weeklong
summer camps will take 11 to 17-year-old kids to go waterfall
rappelling in Bidoup Nui Ba National Park outside of Dalat,
mountain biking on trails around Dalat and rock climbing in Ninh
Binh. The sessions happen in one-week increments, starting in
mid-June and running until mid-July.
For more info, go to facebook.com/asiamotions
Taking his nom de spin from the Black Noah of P-Funk mythology,
DJ Starchild spins his intergalactic Dr. Funkenstein-sent grooves at
a variety of nights around town. Together with his seven-piece funk
band Dat Phonk, Justin is slowly funkstifying Saigon
Show Im really excited

Funniest YouTube clip of
about: The next Groove Control the month: Squeaking baby
at The Observatory, May 10.

Should be insane. Dat Phonk
will be bringing that live funk,
and Foniks is gonna kill it with
another of his live sets (that
dude is a wizard on an MPC).
Then Joey-T, Foniks and myself
will hold it down on the decks
with some serious grooves. The
last Groove Control there didnt
end till 5am. Im hoping this
one goes later than sunrise.
Best night out last

month: Something Funky, Apr.
The Pen Fights Against the Poachers

Wildlife at Risk (WAR) has done some impressive work for the
animals and people of Vietnam, and this summer theyre
seeking 35 bright young minds to continue their efforts. At stake
is the five-day / four-night immersion programme Grown with
Love at WARs Hon Me Wildlife Rescue Station, where the best
essay writers will be taken through daily rescue activities, and
learn awareness-raising skills. Included in the skill building are
essentials like photography, camera trap setting up and forest
surveying. A highlight this year is learning to cultivate plants for
hungry rescues.
The essay writing contest is open to university students until
May 20 and is a funky one at that: writers are to imagine theyre
an endangered animal, hunted and pursued to the brink of
extinction by illegal consumption, and need to write a letter to
humans with their cute little animal paws asking for help. It the
idea of this pulls at your heartstrings, you just might be ready.
For more info, visit wildlifeatrisk.org
11 at Cargo Bar. I couldnt have

dreamed of a funkier night.
Each band The Love Below,
Tastes Like Chicken and Dat
Phonk absolutely killed it. It
was amazing to see that level of
funkstification in Saigon.
Best meal from last

month: All the times I ate at
Sushi Ko. That place is bomb.
Thing I posted on Facebook that got the most

likes: This wasnt something I
posted directly, but I was tagged

in a selfie that I had taken using
a students iPad after I snatched
it from her in the middle of
class. Last time I checked it had
over 300 likes, which is absurd.
Word to the wise, if you need
more likes, befriend Vietnamese
high school students. They like
EVERYTHING.
sloths.
Song I cant get out of

my head: Got To Have Your
Love (Club Edit) Mantronix
I wish this band would

come to town: P-Funk
(with Bootsy!)
How is the scene going?

Its on the up and up. Good
people are throwing awesome
parties, and most everyone Ive
encountered has shown that
they are in it for the right reasons the music. You can feel
the love and passion people are
putting into the music scene.
Its a beautiful thing. Some
nights you have to compete
with your friends gigs, which
sucks, but at the end of the
day, we all have mad love and
respect for what were doing.
The best secret in town

is: Pho Anh on Ky Dong in
District 3. Best pho chin in town.
Where I go when I go
out on my own: The Ob-
servatory.
If my super-awesome
mom came to town I
would: Take her exactly
where I normally go, because

my mom is a boss. She can
hang.
Ho Chi minh city

what s on
Rooftop Runway
Non-Freaky Fridays
Jasmine Spa is pleased to help you start your
weekend in non-frazzled style, with a multitreatment beauty package VND590,000
for two, one-hour treatments, selectable
from a list with manis, pedis, massages
and shampoo. Two glasses of wine will be
dispensed along the way to help provide that
mental separation youll need to get out of
work mode and into your refreshed look.
And, gentlemen whove had a hard
weekend, Jasmine Spa is there to sweep up
the pieces on Monday with a VND490,000

package that includes two drinks and
two one-hour treatments: with a choice
of massages, shave, shampoo and other
refinements awaiting.
Jasmine Spas specials are reservation-only,
Fridays for ladies and Mondays for men and
are available only at the Union Square branch.
Call up (08) 3823 9974 or go to jasminespa.vn
for more info. Jasmine Spa is in Union Square,
B2-01b, 171 Dong Khoi, Q1
The collaborative creatives at Studio Co

are putting on another fashion show this
May 15, this time taking their high fashion
a more different venue the 9th floor
decadence of OMG! Featured on their
catwalk will be makers like La Fiance du
Facteur, Eloise in Saigon, Oui, Mademoiselle
A, Meyrius, Nua and Ayano Otani. Come
early for cocktails, then stay late for more.
The Studio Co Fashion Show is May 15
at OMG! 9th Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen
An Ninh, Q1. Cocktails shall be dispensed at
6.30pm, with the fashion show to follow at 7pm
Saigon Summer Ball

Camp Out at Outcast!
Its the second-to-last day of the long
weekend and youre already regretting
coming back. No worries May 3 will
feature a smores-filled expedition Into the
Wild, with bonfires, BBQ, acoustic jams,
pyjama partying, ghost stories and more
awaiting brave souls in the land of Outcast.
Come prepared with a mosquito tent at
8pm the night of May 3, and you might
even make it all the way through the
terrifying, shadow-strewn night.
Saigon Outcast is at 188/1 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q1
Ring in Your Marriage

Although Hotel Nikko Saigon knows that
every couple wants to prepare for their
special day themselves, they also know
that every little bit helps. From now until
Dec. 31, any wedding booked with a total
cost of more than VND200 million will
receive complimentary wedding rings
for bride and groom. With its Modern
Origami Ballroom and variety of thoughtful
wedding packages, it just might be the
special place to host your specialist day.
Hotel Nikko Saigon is at 235 Nguyen Van
Cu, Q1. Ask your wedding questions to bqsm@
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
In Game of Thrones Terms, its

Indian Summer
Spoiler alert: the a-hole died. Dont
watch whatever comes next on your little
computer screen like a white walker behind
the wall, take it in from the comfy confines
of deciBel, every Monday night at 7pm.
deciBel is at 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1
The social event of the season is almost

upon us, and its time to make your hair
appointment / polish those cufflinks. Its
also time to polish those pearly whites for
all the smiling youll do, whether its for
the Mot & Chandon champagne reception,
the exquisite dinner and devilish dancing
to follow, the charity auction or all the
good your generosity will do for the kids
Saigon Childrens Charity supports. Its
also a good way to go into the rainy season
with a whole wallet-full of business
cards from the stars of Vietnams social and
business worlds, who will be just across the
table.
And for true ballers, sponsorship
opportunities exist check with Saigon
Childrens Charity for more details on
having your name associated with one of
Vietnams most recognised charities and
gala events.
Saigon Childrens Charitys 6th Annual
Saigon Summer Ball is takes place on Jun.
7, 7pm at InterContinental Asiana Saigon.
Tickets are VND3.3 million for individuals and
VND30 million for tables of 10, available from
saigonsummerball@saigonchildren.com or by
calling 0839 303502
British Entrepreneurs Share

Their Secrets
Joe Woolf of Atlas Vietnam has worked
around Vietnam for over 20 years, and
hit on the idea for Atlas in 1998. The idea:
export technical services to higher cost
countries. Now employing 200 staff who
assist on architecture and engineering
projects in UK, Australia, Hong Kong and
Japan, the idea seems to have taken hold.
Stephen Kerslakes The Caterers cater
many of the high-end functions and
industry events in Vietnam. They also
supply those plastic-clamshell, white-bread
sandwiches you see in local convenience
stores. The idea started as a simple idea
about a sandwich, and eight years on, it has
grown into something much bigger.
Hear these two businessmen share their
perspectives on how entrepreneurs can
succeed in Vietnam at BBGVs upcoming
Business Luncheon on British Entrepreneurs
Success in Vietnam, on May 6 at the Caravelle.
The luncheon takes place on May 6 at the
Caravelle, 19-23 Lam Son Sq, Q1, from noon
to 2pm. Entrance for members of BBGV,
CanCham, AusCham, EuroCham and Singapore
Business Group is VND950,000, entrance for
non-members is VND1.2 million. Find out more
at bbgv.org and make your reservation through
Tran at officemanager@bbgv.org
Who Wants to Get Stoned?
Rock Concert 2014: Battleship
After last years epic contest, Saigon

Outcasts Rock Paper Scissors tournament
is getting a do-over May 18. And people
have been busy studying stratagems and
strategies such as wearing a scissorthemed dress, and throwing rock! And well
they should, as losers have to spin around
three times after an embarrassing loss, or
take shots of chilli vodka or lime juice.
Winners only have to put their thumbs up,
as they move to compete for the TBD prize.
The Ultimate Rock Paper Scissors
Tournament will be held at Saigon Outcast,
188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, on May 18;
registration is at 3pm, and the battle will start
at 4pm. There can be only one
The badasses are back, and this time they

have Hoa Lu Stadium to ravage. If the
stadium full of rockers and metalheads
in Hanoi last month was any indication,
this streamlined sister festival of the epic
Rockstorm will leave Ho Chi Minh City
gasping when it comes through on May 10.
Taking down five Rockstorm veterans The
Wall, Tiny Monster, Microwave, Black Infinity
and PAK Band this little slice of mayhem
will leave you thoroughly rocked out.
Rock Concert 2014: Battleship is on at Hoa
Lu Stadium, 2 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, on May
18 at 6.30pm. For more info, go to facebook.com/
rockconcertshow or call 0934 582326. Tickets
are VND120,000, VND95,000 in advance
Arty Cooking
Cooking classes are great except when
you try to recreate the magic you seemed
to pick up so quickly when in session.
Thats where this collaboration between
VinSpace Art Studio and Hoa Tucs Saigon
Cooking Class comes in. The arty cooking
class will focus on four Hoa Tuc signature
Vietnamese dishes, and the art of recipe
book making with VinSpaces bookmaking

expert. Have a great, yummy time, and
take some of those memories home, too.
Arty cooking classes are on May 7, 8,
14 and 15, costing from VND900,000 to
VND1.2 million per class. For more info,
contact info@vin-space.com or i.briosca@
saigoncookingclass.com
Ho Chi minh city

Just In
Quan Ut Ut
Clothes Make the Hero
Opened in late March, this new resto is

already drawing rave reviews, and for good
reason. The American-styled BBQ joint is
on the level with the best of the American
south, just with industrial-style unfinished
wood picnic tables and not the sticky vinyl
tablecloth-covered ones youll more often
find in the genuine article. But whats
important is the pig and thats right on
the mark.
Start out with some chicken skin and
the best chicken wings Saigon has to offer,
then move onto the perfectly crisp pork
belly with a helping of cooked apple and
the fennel and red pepper-flaked spicy
Italian sausage. The portions come with
two sides classics like grilled okra and
corn bread and are large enough that
three people can fill up on two orders.
Eventually Ut Ut will start brewing their
own pale ale, but for now they have rare
imports like Pacifico, Dos Equis and Kona
on the menu, as well as bargain-priced
Sapporo.
And then there are the ribs. From their
delightful Facebook page:
Knowing when ribs are ready is
something of an art. The common
misnomer that ribs should fall off the
bone is not quite right. Tender yes,
but mush no. The ribs should come off
the bone with a gentle tug, but falling off
means they are overdone. One last kiss
over the flames to crisp up the bark and
sticky up the sauce and youre golden. The
rib, which spent its life protecting the vital
organs of a cute farm pig has transcended
to another level. To nirvana.
Quan Ut Ut is at 168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, and
is open seven days a week, 4pm to midnight.
Get excited at facebook.com/quanutut. Or even
better, go to the restaurant
Clothes maketh the man. Fake it until you make

it. There are enough of these chestnuts
floating around that we cant lose sight
of their truth appearances matter. And
with this knowledge, the minds behind
New Hero Project got to thinking: why not
Vietnam?
The solution they came up with is a line
of 100-percent cotton, strongly-stitched,

high quality-printed shirts with an inspiring
message Anyone can be a New Hero.
Its a line of shirts especially meant for an
ambitious, optimistic generation, a kind of
uniform to help its wearers shine.
New Hero Project T-shirts are available online
at newheroproject.com for VND395,000 each
Age of Reason
Think British, and besides The Queen,
fish, chips, The Beatles, Banksy and
underperforming national football teams,
what comes to mind? Well, unless youve
been there, not all that much really. But the
UK is a fairly quirky little place, and this
is something that has been captured by
the clothing brand Age of Reason, which
is now being stocked at Saigons Anupa
Boutique.
With a range of high quality, limitedquantity scarves, pocket squares, shawls

and wrap, worn by celebrities from
Joan Collins to Jerry Hall, Rita Ora and
Joanna Lumley, Age of Reason offers
wearable luxury with a playful punk
twist. To get your fix, head down to
Anupa Boutique (9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel:
0838 222394) or click on age-of-reasonstudios.com
The Orient
Although you might not be expecting it
from the name, The Orient is set to become
something of a sports destination. With six
55-inch (1.4m) HD TVs and a projection
screen with a four-metre diagonal all
connected to six different satellites
theyll probably have your game on. With
a free flow happy hour between 5.30pm
Little Champa
Its hole-in-the-wall, and its slightly
out of the way in the Cham area on
the edge of Binh Thanh and District
1 but it does something that few
other restaurants in this city does: sells
Cham cuisine.
Think a range of curries, with either
beef, chicken, fish or a sweet and sour
vegetarian version, as well as an ethnic
dish called ebai rin. Also on the menu
are dishes like the Tunisian brick,
Arab-style samosas and the banh habah,
a type of fried bread typically eaten by
the Cham. And prices are cheap, too.
Under VND90,000 for a main.
Little Champa is at 101 Phan Van Han,
Binh Thanh, close to Thi Nghe Bridge
and, erm, McDonalds. Check them out on
Facebook at facebook.com/champaflower.
banguchampa
and 8pm, all-you-can-drink Tigers are

VND120,000 and Sapporos are VND150,000
you might find a new team to root for.
And, with darts, foosball and a bold claim to
have Saigons best pool table, maybe even a
new team to join.
The Orient is at 24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1, and
on facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
Ho Chi Minh Megacity

With its emphasis on German culture,
its easy to forget that Goethe Institut
is equally invested in local culture. In a
newly-published photobook, Tp. Ho Chi
Minh Megacity, scholars Michael Waibel
and Henning Hilbert, with the support of
the cultural institute, detail Ho Chi Minh
Citys vibrancy, dynamism and challenges
to sustainability. Over 600 crisp and
telling photos culled from research on
sustainable megacities of tomorrow
make up the pages of this work, which
was developed with the support of
AUDI Vietnam, Schenker Vietnam, Illies
Vietnam, KFW Vietnam and Brendel &
Associates.
For more information or to get a copy of the
large-format book, visit goethe.de/vietnam,
email prog@saigon.goethe.org or Tel: (08)
3832 6716
Swiss House
Featuring Swiss cuisine from all the three
major language parts of Switzerland
German, French and Italian as well
as fare from Austria and Bavaria, Swiss
House Saigon is one of only a handful of
restaurants in this country specialising in
Central European cuisine.
Featuring a Swiss-themed dining area
and a basement beer cellar, dishes include
not only the well-known likes of cheese
fondue, rsti and raclette, but fare unique
to each canton of Switzerland, all cooked
up by executive chef Jack Legler.
Swiss House Saigon is at 54 Le Thanh Ton,
Q1. Tel: (08) 3824 2079, swisshousesaigon.
com
overscene ho chi minh

mykki Blanco
Photos by Nick Ross
The photos below were taken at a recent

Mykki Blanco gig at Cargo Bar. But they
weren't shot on a Canon 5D Mark III
or its Nikon equivalent. They were
taken with a smartphone.
We all use smartphones to film or take
photos at gigs. So, do you have any event
photos you would like to send in?
Simply email photos@wordvietnam.com

together with your name,
the event and when and
where it took place.
We will publish the best images in
the coming issue of Word. Looking
forward to hearing from you!
dirty beaches
Photos by Francis Xavier

Weird stuff happened when soul
pilgrim Dirty Beaches played
McSorley's... for 20 minutes
superpoze

The French phenom with the boyish
good looks got down at Cargo Bar
"This is just like an underground show in London would be, the crowd,
the packed dance floor, the energy." overheard at Superpoze
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordhcmc.com and we'll take a look.
best of overscene
Photos by Francis Xavier and Kyle

Phanroy
It was a cool couple of years on the Ho
Chi Minh City scene, filled with Thai
thrash demons, international big tickets
like The Cribs and Japandroids and those
who passed through yet stayed with us,
like Brett Newski and the Corruption
Hcmc
may 2014
Rock Concert 2014:

Battleship
ith all the talk

about live music
this month, wed
be remiss not to
mention the biggest live show
of the month. Learn hard rock
the right way with Microwave,
Black Infinity and PAK Band.
Dragonflys Blue/
Orange
ragonfly Theatres
newest is a West
End classic of
sarcastic comedy, in
which a psychiatric patient
confuses his doctors with
a claim to be the son of an
African dictator. Dont be
that crazy go!
may 10 Hoa Lu Stadium
May 16 18 Cargo Bar
01 thursday
12 Monday
02 friday
Game of Thrones season 4 screening. Every Mon. 8pm @

deciBel. See Whats On
03 saturday
Into The Wild. Campfire and BBQ night @ Saigon Outcast.
04 sunday
05 monday
06 tuesday
BBGVs Business Luncheon. 12pm @ Caravelle Hotel. See Whats On
07 wednesday
Arty Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc. From 4pm to 7pm @ Vinspace Art
Studio. See Whats On
08 thursday
Canvas&Wine: Landscape Painting. 6.30pm @ VinSpace Garage.
See Whats On
09 friday
13 Tuesday
Double Trouble. Buy 1 get 1 for drinks all night. Every Tue. @ Last Call
14 Wednesday
Arty Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc. From 4pm to 7pm @ Vinspace Art
15 Thursday
Arty Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc. From 6pm to 10pm @ Vinspace
Art Studio. See Whats On
Last Call Loves Ladies. Every Thu. from 6 to 9pm. Group of 3 ladies
gets complimentary cocktail
16 Friday
Blue Orange by Dragonfly Theatre. 7pm @ Cargo Bar. See Whats
On
D2 JoyRide. 7pm, starts at The Bike Shop (250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2).
See Whats On
17
17 Saturday
saturday
Saigon F3 Has House Harriettes. Location TBA. See saigonhash.com

for more info
10 saturday
deciBels 2 Year Anniversary. 8pm @ deciBel. See Whats On
rock concert 2014: battleship. 6.30pm @ Hoa Lu Stadium (2 Dinh
Tien Hoang, Q1)
11 sunday
Everyones a DJ presents Postiljonen. From 4pm with support band
Space Panther @ La Fenetre Soleil
The Bavarian Youth Jazz Band. 8pm @ Saigon Opera House.
goethe.de/vietnam for more info
Lip Service. 9pm featuring Foniks and Starchild @ Broma

Blue Orange by Dragonfly Theatre. 3pm and 7pm @ Cargo Bar.
See Whats On
Loud Minority Presents The Cairos. @ Cargo Bar. See Big5
18 Sunday
Blue Orange by Dragonfly Theatre. 7pm @ Cargo Bar. See Whats
On
To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com

by no later than May 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo
Saigon Charity Bazaar
hao Diens biannual

tradition is back with
45 vendors all doing
their part for a better
tomorrow for those who
benefit from their charitable
partners work. Do your part,
buy some cool things.
Bourbon Street Jazz Fest
he loosely-themed but
well-booked fest is on
for a second year, with
Japanese jazz singers,
New Orleans blues nomads
and local gypsy jazz-slingers
and funkologists. Get into the
swing of things, and help out
charity while youre at it.
may 31 cargo bar
May 24 The deck
19 Monday
26 Monday
Jasmine Spas Special Promotions. Every Mon. for men. See Whats
On
27 Tuesday
Opera Pizza Craze Menu. Choose any item in the Pizza Craze Menu
and get 20% off for the next one only in May @ Park Hyatt Saigon
20 Tuesday
21 Wednesday
Hos-Sol - Nadge David solo exhibition. From 6pm, exhibition
until Jun. 7 @ Galerie Quynh Dong Khoi. Visit galeriequynh.com for info
22 Thursday
Canvas&Wine: Creative Figure Painting. 6.30pm @ VinSpace Art
23 Friday
DJ night. Every Fri. @ Last Call till very late
Starchilds Birthday Extravaganza. 10pm @ La Fenetre Soleil. See
Whats On
Everyones a DJ 5 year anniversary. With Andy Rouke from the
Smiths. See Big5
Brazillian Party. @ Thao Dien Village. See Whats On
24 Saturday
Gangster Cat Haus. 9pm, featuring DMN SLYR, Will Henley and
Starchild @ Broma. See Whats On
Charity Bazaar. 4pm @ The Deck (38 Nguyen U Di, Q2). See Whats
On
German International Schools Open House day. From noon to
4pm. See Whats On
25 Sunday
Special Collaboration menu by Michel Roux and Giancarlo

Pebellini. From May 27 to 29 @ InterContinental Danang. See Big5
28 Wednesday
29 Thursday
Early Bird Special. Buy 1 get 1 for drinks. 6 to 9pm everyday @ Last
Call
30 Friday
Classical Voices Concert. 7.30pm By The International Choir and
Orchestra of HCMC @ Conservatory of Music. See What's On
Jasmine Spas Special Promotions. Every Fri. for ladies. See Whats
On
31 saturday
bourbon street jazz festival. @ Cargo Bar. See Whats On
Classical Voices Concert. 7.30pm By The International Choir and
Orchestra of HCMC @ RMIT. See Big5
Shades of Jae. 9pm featuring DJ Joey T @ Broma
Le Fruit Off-Road Triathlon. @ Ho Tram Beach. See Whats On
hanoi
what s on
Summer Sounds at 88 Lounge
ASEAN Incoming
CAMA ATK is building the suspense for
May 24s ASEAN Pride Festival (see The Big
5), and theyre making it happen throughout
the month of May.
First up is Thailands Nok La Fiesta, who
along with her Spanish guitar and reggae/
rock/rumba vocal stylings, will also be
performing alongside her Cajun playing
brother on Friday, May 16 before she takes
the stage on the 24th.
Then, on Thursday, May 22, Myanmars
Big Bag, formerly Bloodsugar Politik, change
things up with an exclusive set before the
big event. The pairs eclectic sound which

splices together jazz, metal and punk rock in
an unlikely blend will be adjusted for the
size of ATKs venue, with the band swapping
up their electronic guitars for acoustics.
Finally, on May 23, Thailands Stylish
Nonsense a post-punk, electric-funk pair
known for their onstage improvisation
and San Franciscos Mark Gergis (Sublime
Frequencies) will get things rolling on the
night before the big gig.
Cama ATK is located at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai
Ba Trung, Hanoi
88 Lounge is bringing plenty of good vibes

to the start of summer in Hanoi.
On two Saturdays, May 17 and May 31,
the Tay Ho watering hole welcomes their
resident songstress Huong Tra and her
acoustic stylings. Saturday, May 24 mixes it
up with Disco Beat Green Sessions, featuring
local talent GiGi and groove guru DJ Blip
Blop. And to really celebrate the warmer
weather, its all happening on their outdoor
patio in the summer air.
88 Lounge is located at 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho. Huong Tra performs on May 17 and May
31 from 9pm to 11pm, and Disco Beat is on
May 24 from 8pm until midnight
European Film Festival comes

to Vietnam
Dissonant Nation Descends on Hanoi
LEspace is continuing their impressive
musical lineup in May with Dissonant
Nation, a tri-lingual indie rock threesome
that rocks out in French and English.
Thankfully, for those not accustomed to
rocking out to Francophone musical fare,
there is little to worry about Dissonant
Nations killer guitar solos are pretty
universal.
LEspace welcomes Dissonant Nation on
Saturday, May 31 from 8pm. Tickets are
VND180,000 and discounts are available for
LEspace members and students. Pick up tickets
at LEspace from now until the show at 24 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Find more information
at ifhanoi-lespace.com
Vinyl Never Dies at Cama ATK
Pressfoto.com
There are plenty of music purists in the cultural

capital of Vietnam, and just for those less
impressed by the MP3, Cama ATKs monthly
bring your own vinyl night returns on
Friday, May 2. The celebration of the old
school and the age of the turntablist is
made even better by the crowd-made
playlist. Bring the best of your
12-inches to get in on the action.
Straight No Mixer Bring Your
Own Vinyl Night comes to Cama ATK, 73 Mai
Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi on Friday, May 2
From the collaboration between fourteen

European cultural institutes and embassies,
the European Film Festival features the best
of the international silver screen. Taking place
in Hanoi, Danang and Ho Chi Minh City, the
film festival will run from May 16 to May 31.
The festival will open on May 16 with
British drama, How I Live Now, screening at
the National Cinema Center. Based on the
novel of the same name, the fictitious tale
follows main character Meg, an American
who travels to England to live with relatives.
There, she falls in love with her eldest cousin
Eddie a love thats doomed to hardship
when the Third World War rocks the globe.
The festival will also feature Germanys Oh
Boy, presented by the Goethe Institut, as well
as an incredible lineup of cinematic marvels
from Europe.
The European Film Festival kicks off on May 16
with How I Live Now, screening at the National
Cinema Center, 87 Lang Ha, Ba Dinh. Additional
showings will take place throughout the city. Free
tickets are available at Goethe Institut, 56-58
Nguyen Thai Hoc, the British Council, 20 Thuy
Khue, and the National Cinema Center. Find more
information online at goethe.de/Vietnam
Photo by Le Viet Hoang
Prime Mover
Maggie Gazur
Event manager, Madake
facebook.com/madake.hanoi.3
Europe Day Gets Jazzy

In celebration of Europe Day on May 9, the Goethe-Institut and
Vietnam National Academy of Music bring to the capital the best
and brightest in European youth musicians the Bavarian Youth
Jazz Band. Their repertoire boasts an eclectic collection of classic jazz
hits from the likes of Duke Ellington, along with big band renditions
of Latin and funk grooves. Led by internationally renowned
percussionist and bandleader Harald Ruschenbaum, the Bavarian
Youth Jazz Band has performed on stages around the world, and
promises the finest showcase of European music and culture.
The Bavarian Youth Jazz Band will perform on Friday, May 9 from 8pm
at the Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Tickets for the show
are free, and are available at the Goethe-Institute at 56-58 Nguyen Thai
Hoc, Ba Dinh. Find more information online at goethe.de/Vietnam
Gabriel Bianco at
LEspace
LEspace, never short on fantastic
musical talent on their social
calendar, welcome classical
guitarist Gabriel Bianco to their
stage on May 20 from 8pm. Bianco
has been hailed as a classical
revelation, and despite his
young age, has broken boundaries
between modern and classical
genres with his eclectic mix of
sound. Borrowing inspiration
from Bach and Paganini Turina,
Bianco is a virtuoso not to be
missed on stage.
Gabriel Bianco comes to the LEspace
stage at 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi on May 20 from 8pm. Tickets are
on sale at LEspace for VND120,000,
with discounts for students and
LEspace members. Find more
information at ifhanoi-lespace.com
North Meets South

Because no one likes sibling rivalry, Hanois Cama ATK is
teaming up with Ho Chi Minh Citys The Observatory for a
night of music, merriment and, hopefully, very few wedgies.
Featuring guest DJs Hibiya Line and Dan Lo two of the
most recognized DJs in Saigon Cama ATKs Southern Groove
is all about feelin the love. Play nice, kids.
Southern Groove featuring DJs Hibiya Line and Dan Lo comes
to Cama ATK, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi on Saturday,
May 3. Entry is VND50,000
Maggie Gazur brings the party to Madake with ambitious weekly

events that often fuse music and art, like the recent Inside Out,
which blended performances by Vietnamese hip hop dancers and
Australian guest DJ Mzrizk with a street art-themed exhibition
Show Im really excited

about: Quest! Im DJing there.
to this song when I drive.
I wish this DJ would come

to town: Joy Orbison. He plays
Ive never played in a festival.

Im going to play at 6am. Its
going to be really fun.
Best night out last month:

Motion, a video mapping event
I organised at Madake. You
project abstract video along with
techno music. It was the first
time video mapping was done
in Hanoi. People dont really like
techno here, so I thought I would
play and nobody would dance.
But it was really crowded.
Best meal from last

month: Banh khot in Vung Tau
techno and really good dubstep.

I saw him many times in Europe
and he's amazing.
How is the scene going?

Its going better and better. Two
years ago there were only a
few events, but it was always
the same kind of music. There
were only three or four DJs and
not many bands. For going out,
there were only bia hoi.
The best secret in town is:
was amazing. Its like a small

doughnut with a shrimp in it.
The food in the south is so good.
Is it better? I dont know about
that. Its just different.
Thing I posted on Facebook that got the most

likes: My picture with my Vietnamese flag tattoo. My family
is Vietnamese, my cousin got a
matching one, so its something
we did together, here, to mark
our origins. (37 likes)
Funniest YouTube clip of

the month: A film from a 1990s
rave. People care more about

their appearance now. In the
video they dont care about anything and are dancing like crazy
in a park. You want to be there
and at the same time its scary.
Song I cant get out of my

head: Estrange by Shed. Its re-
ally experimental. I love listening
The best banh cuon is made by an

old man on the pavement. Its in
the Old Quarter, near Vietnam
Motorbikes, and the guy is so
nice. He smokes cigarettes and
makes banh cuon at the same
time. I think people dont go
there because it doesnt look really clean, but the food is so good.
Where I go when I go out

on my own: I go to the Old
Quarter to meet my family. I
really like spending time with
them. Chatting in Vietnamese is
really fun. My stepmother sells
banh bao, so sometimes she asks
me to sell it.
If my older-yet-still-cool
Mom came to town, I
would take her to: Actually,
shes coming in a month and
really wants to see me play. So
maybe I will take her to Madake
or Zone 17. I really want to see
my mom there. Maybe Ill try to
organise a funk night for her.
hanoi
what s on
Work Room Four Birthday

Celebration
HITS Sweaty Shorts

HITS (Hanoi International Theatre Society)
is back and taking to the stage with their
newest production or, shall we say,
productions from their veteran and
newcomer director team.
HITS' old timer thespians Kelly Brennan,
Christophe Barthe and Nadia Engelbrecht,
as well as newbies Nic Sando and Matt
Barns, take on the role of directors with a
series of one-act plays performed over an
epic three-day event.
Productions including Blythe Spirit; Words,

Words, Words; Art House; Friendship; and The
Cockroach are set to take to the stage. Brace
yourself for ornery ghosts, existentialism,
toilets, phallic ceramics and cockroaches, all
in the name of charity and comic relief.
HITS Sweaty Shorts three-day, oddball play
extravaganza kicks off on May 29 and runs until
May 31 at Chez Xuan Restaurant Garden Bar
and Grill, 41 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Hanoi.
Get more information online at hitshanoi.com
South Asian Gaelic Games
as Magners Irish Cider.

A pre-game reception at Sheraton Hotel
on May 23 will raise funds for local charity
Blue Dragon, which provides assistance to
disadvantaged children in Vietnam.
For more information on the event, email
james_kiernan@yahoo.com or visit thevietcelts.
wordpress.com
R&R goes VIP

Social enterprise VIP Bikes (64, Alley 71,
Tan Ap, Ba Dinh) and social watering hole
R&R Tavern (256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho) have
teamed up to give just that little bit more to
their customers.
Each time a customer brings in a
motorbike for a service at VIP, they will
be given a free beer voucher for five Tiger
beers (worth VND160,000) to be spent at
R&R. The two ventures are also holding a

raffle for a brand new Honda Vision (worth
VND34 million). At just VND500,000 at
ticket, 125 people will get the chance to win
the motorbike at a prize draw party that
will take place at R&R on Sunday Jun. 15.
All proceeds will go towards the training
and development of underprivileged youth.
Tickets are available at both R&R and VIP.
Pressfoto.com
The Irish have taken over the

Vietnamese sporting world with
Gaelic football, one of the countrys
fastest growing sports. With
Vietnamese representation by the
countrys resident teams the Saigon
Gaels (Ho Chi Minh City) and the Viet
Celts (Hanoi), the seventh South Asian
Gaelic Games are set to kick off in
Hanois Vietnam Football Federation
training centre in My Dinh on May 24.
It marks the third time the event has
been hosted in Vietnam.
With teams from Thailand, Malaysia,
Singapore, the Philippines, Myanmar,
India and Taiwan heading to Hanoi
for the big event, Vietnams very own
will compete for bragging rights in a
300-player, all-day collection of matches.
For spectators, there will be plenty of food
and drink provided by Al Frescos as well
Work Room Four, Hanois purveyor of

creativity via co-working space, art classes
and workshops, is turning one year old this
May, as well as celebrating the long awaited
opening of their second studio. Swapping
paintbrushes for wine glass stems for one
night only on May 16, Work Room Fours
first birthday bash promises art, music,
drinks and great company.
Work Room Fours birthday celebration
takes place on May 16 from 6pm at Packexim
Building, Tower 1, 24th Floor located at 49, Ngo
15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Find
more information online at workroomfour.com
Second Annual Hanoi Health

Day
In honour of World Health Day, the Hanoi
Holistic Health Group is presenting their
second annual Hanoi Health Day on Sunday,
May 11 at Zenith Yoga Studio. With the
help of international health experts and
illuminating presentations, kids and adults
alike will have the opportunity to learn more
about living healthy in the city, and can enjoy
a healthy snack or two from the Zenith Caf.
The Hanoi Holistic Health group also
recently released their latest guide to
alternative health in Hanoi. A free version
is available online. Simply go to issuu.com/
hanoiholistichealth to get your free download.
The guide contains listings of holistic and
wellness practitioners in Hanoi, making it an
indispensable resource for those looking to
optimise their physical, mental, and spiritual
health in the capital.
Hanoi Health Day at Zenith Yoga Studio,
247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi takes place on May
11 from 11am to 3pm. Admission is free. Public
transportation is recommended, as parking is
limited
Racing, but not in drag

The folks at KUB Cafe are using
the beach at the end of Ngo 200
Au Co to good effect, by setting
up a drag racing course for avid
motorbike riders to battle it out on
the sand.
The last two races brought out
a number of motorbike-obsessed
folks, and the next offering on
Saturday May 17 will be upping
the ante. To go with the races there
will be a bonfire, a BBQ, and of
course, kegs of beer on the beach.
The drag racing generally starts at
2pm, but for more information, ask at
KUB Cafe (12/264 Au Co, Tay Ho) or
go to facebook.com/kubcafe
Caribbean Groove
Rockstore is celebrating all
things island culture on May 16,
with Caribbean Night. With DJ
Blip Blop behind the turntables,
Rockstore will blast the best of
reggae to put you in the island
mood. Don your best Caribbean
threads for this one.
Rockstore, 61 Ma May,
presents Caribbean Night on
May 16 from 8pm. Get more
information at facebook.com/
rockstorehanoi
Photo Journey with LEspace

Part photographer, part
restaurant owner, over the past
few years Rehahn Croquevielle
has captured the lives and
cultures of Vietnam through
his cameras lens. Now,
having released a stunning
portrait of Vietnams lives
and communities with his
book, Vietnam: A Mosaic of
Contrasts, the Hoi An based

photographers most stunning
portraits will be on display
beginning May 9 at LEspace.
LEspace is located at 24
Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi.
Entrance to the exhibition is free,
which opens on May 9 at 6pm.
Find more information online at
ifhanoi-lespace.com
hanoi
Just In
UNIS Opens Its Doors

United Nations International School
is expanding its already successful
English as an Additional Language (EAL)
programme with the Middle School
Immersion Programme for the 2014 to 2015
school year.
Through the programme, students with
little to no English are welcomed into
UNIS from Discovery (3 years) through to
Grade 8 (14 years). The program requires
no additional cost to standard school fees,
and provides individualized language
learning, EAL Immersion specialist staff,

a dedicated EAL teaching space and
resources, additional counseling support
and a parallel curriculum with UNIS high
quality international curriculum.
Parents are also provided with
additional assistance, including translation
available during all meetings with UNISs
Immersion teacher, Mr Lin Turley.
Find more information on the Immersion
Programme at UNIS by visiting unishanoi.
org/immersion or emailing mro@unishanoi.org
Hanoi Adds Four Stars

Sail Away
Tonkin Cruises Halong Bay recently added
a fourth ship to their fleet, which set sail at
the beginning of this month for its maiden
voyage. The new ship, Marguerite Garden
Bay, boasts 11 deluxe cabins and an on-board
BBQ dining experience on its sun deck.
The Marguerite Garden Bay is now
available alongside Tonkins other vessels,
the Marguerite Junk I and II and the
Marguerite Garden.
For more information on reservations,
visit tonkincruises.com or Tonkin Cruises
representative office at 1 Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh
Hanoi is adding four more stars to its

hospitality network with the newly opened
May de Ville Old Quarter Hotel. As the
second establishment built by the May de
Ville group, the new location boasts the
same brilliant amenities as its cousin, but all
within a quick stroll of Hoan Kiem Lake.
Along with its perfect location on Gia
Ngu, the new 110-room May de Ville
addition has both a swimming pool and
terrace bar on its top floor, with incredible
views of the city.
May de Ville Old Quarter is located at 43-47
Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem. For more information,
email dos@maydeville.com
The Hanoi Bicycle Collective

Doubles Down
In an attempt to split up their Spanish tapas
bar and their bicycle shop, The Hanoi Bicycle
Collective, one of Hanois best spots for the
cycling community, has added a new location
to their growing lineup of bicycle hubs in the
West Lake area.
Located on Nhat Chieu on West Lake, a
few doors down from Chula, the new shop
focuses on the sale of bicycles and accessories,
specializing in the Spanish-built brand,
Orbea. The outlet also offers up repair and
rental services.
The original location on Lane 31, Xuan
Dieu, still offers up rental and repair services,
however, the focus is now on the Spanish
tapas bar. Four new tapas dishes have been
added to the menu, as have two set lunch
options and two tapas combo options. Barstyle seating has been added downstairs
while the upstairs area has more of a caf
feel, with a pleasant terrace overlooking the
alleyway below.
THBC Spanish Tapas Bar is at 44, Ngo 31,
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, while the THBC Bicycle Shop
is at 29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3718 3156
Paris Meets Hanoi

The best of French cuisine has come to
Hanoi, with the newly opened LEmbellie.
Located in the heart of downtown, LEmbellie
is an oasis within the city, built within an
exquisitely renovated French colonial home.
Featuring French delicacies like beef
tenderloin Rossini, Bouillabaisse and their
own exclusive rabbit stuffed with foie gras,
LEmbellie also promises an impressive
collection of French wines and desserts.
Set lunch specials and a la carte options
establishes LEmbellie as a new choice
lunchtime spot for the busy workweek.
LEmbellie is located at 49 Trieu Viet Vuong,
Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 0717
overscene hANOI
the stuff of sound

Photos by David Harris
Experimental beat music made its
annual takeover of the capital last
month with the return of Hanoi
Soundstuff
a laugh a minute
Photos by Teresa Wealleans

Not to be upstaged, CAMA ATK also
brought in the comics the day before the
House of Son Tinh, with Hong Kong
and Hanoi rubbing shoulders in ATK's
cool confines
Egg on Your Face
Photos provided by The Movenpick

Well, not exactly, but The Movenpick
certainly did their best to put on a
spread over the Easter weekend
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordhanoi.com and we'll take a look.
HA HA HANOI
Photos by Nick Ross

The House of Son Tinh opened its doors
to their fourth comedy show, bringing in
acts from the Take Out Comedy Club in
Hong Kong, who shared the stage with
local comics from Hanoi
Cinematango
Photos provided by The Embassy of

Argentina
Imagine a heated, tense and edgy set
of short silent movies, screened to a
backdrop of tango-influenced music
played live by a five-piece band. That is
what greeted guests at Cinematheque
when the Argentinian Embassy
celebrated World Malbec Day
Crystal jade
Photos provided by JW Marriott

The JW Marriott launched their iconic
Chinese restaurant, Crystal Jade, with
the attendance of VIPs from around
Vietnam
hanoi
may 2014
Southern Groove
anoi and Ho Chi Minh

City continue their
musical partnership at
Cama ATK, with two
of the south city's best DJs
and groove gurus hitting the
capital.
European Film Festival

Opening
rom the collaboration

of 14 embassies and
cultural centres in the
city comes a festival
celebrating the best of the
silver screen. It kicks off with
the British apocalyptic love
story How I Live Now.
May 16 National Cinema Centre
May 3 Cama ATK
01 thursday
Buy a bottle and get a free cold cut platter. @ A la Folie,
Tuesday to Sunday, 5pm to 7pm
02 friday
Straight No Mixer Vinyl Night. @ CAMA ATK, 8pm
03 saturday
Southern Groove: The Observatory Meets CAMA ATK. @ CAMA
ATK, 8pm
12 Monday
13 Tuesday
14 Wednesday
Nightly live music. @ The Oyster Bar, Dons Tay Ho, 8pm
15 Thursday
04 sunday
Nightly live music. @ The Oyster Bar, Dons Tay Ho, 8pm
16 Friday
05 monday
06 tuesday
07 wednesday
08 thursday
09 friday
Rehahn Photo Exhibition. @ LEspace, 6pm
The Bavarian Youth Jazz Band. @ The Hanoi Opera House, 8pm
10 saturday
The Bavarian Youth Jazz Band. @ The Hanoi Opera House, 8pm
Dame Clemence. @ Zenith Yoga, 2pm to 5pm
11 sunday
Hanoi Health Day. @ Zenith Yoga Au Co, 11am to 3pm
Mothers Day. @ El Patio Restaurant, Melia Hotel
Opening of European Film Festival. @ National Cinema Hanoi.

Free tickets available from Goethe-Institut Hanoi, British Council and
National Cinema Centre
Nok La Fiesta feat. Cajun Player. @ CAMA ATK, 8pm
Workroom Four first birthday. @ Workroom Four, Packexim
Building, 6pm
17 Saturday
Garden Performance with Huong Tra. @ 88 Lounge, 9pm to
11pm
18 Sunday
To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhanoi.com

by no later than May 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo
ASEAN Pride Festival Dissonant Nation
ocal and international

bands from around
Southeast Asia come
together to celebrate
diversity, acceptance and
maybe even some crowd
surfing. Oh, and dont forget
the music.
issonant Nation, a
trilingual indie rock
outfit, speaks English,
French and the unique
Arab-influenced dialect from
Marseilles. They also speak
the universal language of epic
guitar solos.
May 24 The American Club
19 Monday
20 Tuesday
Gabriel Bianco. @ LEspace, 8pm
21 Wednesday
May 31 LEspace
26 Monday
27 Tuesday
28 Wednesday
29 Thursday
HITS Sweaty Shorts. Four one-act plays @ Chez Xuan. Go to

facebook.com/hits.hanoi for information
German film Oh Boy! @ National Cinema Centre, 6pm
22 Thursday
30 Friday
Big Bag (Myanmar) Acoustic Set. @ CAMA ATK, 8pm

German film Oh Boy! @ National Cinema Centre, 6pm
23 Friday
Stylish Nonsense (Thailand) Acoustic Set. @ CAMA ATK, 8pm
24 Saturday
ASEAN Pride. @ The American Club, 1pm to midnight. Go to cama-atk.
com for information
outh Asian Gaelic Games. @ Vietnam Football Federation (VFF)
training facility My Dinh. Go to thevietcelts.wordpress.com for information
Green Sessions: Disco Beat with Gigi and BlipBlop. @ 88 Lounge,
8pm to midnight
25 Sunday
Skank The Tank (Monthly reggae night). @ CAMA ATK, 8pm

HITS Sweaty Shorts. @ Chez Xuan
31 saturday
Dissonant Nation. @ LEspace, 8pm
Final day of European Film Festival. @ National Cinema Hanoi
HITS Sweaty Shorts. @ Chez Xuan
in the papers
The Best of the VietnameSe Press
HOANG SA ARCHIPELAGO
(VIETNAM)
Con Dao Recognised
TRUONG SA ARCHIPELAGO
(VIETNAM)
Giant Rubber Duck Comes to

Saigon
An enormous 600kg replica of a childrens
toy duck is now floating on District 7s Ban
Nguyet Lake, and will remain there for
spectators throughout the month of May.
The duck which is made of over
200 pieces of PCV pipe and floating
on a specially designed 15m pontoon
boat is the work of world-renowned
Dutch artist Florentijn Hofman. Since the
duckys debut in Amsterdam in 2007, it has
travelled around the world and graced the
waterways of some 14 global cities in the
name of spreading joy.
The appearance of the oversized
childrens toy has prompted a festival
around the ducks current bathtub, with
dance and rock shows, acoustic concerts
and souvenir booths popping up around
the lake.
Con Dao Island and National Park were

recently recognised as a Ramsar wetland
conservation site. The island area adds
to the already extensive list of over 2,000
Ramsar sites worldwide, but adds a
recorded 144 new species to the list as well.
Ramsar, which recognises and provides
a crucial framework for international
conservation efforts of wetlands and
their resources, is the only global
environmental treaty that deals with

a particular ecosystem. Ramsar has
protected areas around the globe from
overdevelopment and destruction.
Other Ramsar sites in Vietnam include
the Xuan Thuy natural wetland reserve
in Nam Dinh, Tram Chim National Park
in Dong Thap and Ca Mau Cape National
Park in Ca Mau. Con Dao will be the first
sea Ramsar site in Vietnam.
Phu Quoc to Get New Passenger Ship Port

Tourist destination Phu Quoc Island off
the coast of southern Vietnam is currently
seeking approval to begin work on a
multi-million dollar project to set up a new
international passenger ship port.
The harbour, if constructed, would be
located in An Thoi Bay, which stands around
190km west of the mainland.
The proposed port would be large
enough to receive ships carrying up to 6,000

passengers, and would cost an estimated
VND353.9 billion to construct.
Proponents for the new port addition
insist that the current lack of ports capable
of docking large ships discourages tourists
from visiting the island, who must instead
travel on canoes from larger offshore ships
to reach Phu Quoc.
Textbooks and Academic Programmes to Stay the Same

A move to reform Vietnams training curriculum and textbooks has been brought to a
temporary halt, due to the estimated cost VND34 trillion.
Designed to not only change the educational curriculum, the reforms are also
supposed to extend to teacher training and the purchase of educational equipment.
However, the plan for the changes has been described as sketchy and incomplete,
contributing to its temporary postponement.
Vietnam Backs Out as Asian

Games 2019 Host
Vietnam recently announced that it will not
host the 2019 Asian Games, as previously
planned. As of the end of April, the multisport event held annually around the
Asian region still does not have a hosting
successor.
The country cited a lack of preparedness
and fears that the event would not be
financially viable as reasons to why the
decision to back out was made.
After a crisis meeting held with top
officials, the Vietnam Olympic Committee
concluded that holding the Games despite
poor preparation could damage Vietnams
reputation on an international scale.
Measles Outbreak Spreads

The outbreak of measles in Vietnam is
continuing to spread. Children with
symptoms including high fever, rash,
coughing and conjunctivitis have been
rushed to city hospitals. The symptoms
diagnosed as those of scarlet fever have
been linked to measles.
Many localities in the country, including
Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and northern
provinces like Lao Cai, Son La and Yen Bai
have reported cases of measles. Incidents
of death are also on the rise, with children
in Yen Bai Province and Hanois Dong Anh

district dying earlier this year from measles
complications.
The outbreak is an unexplained
recurrence after two years of no reported
cases in the country. Adding to the
problem is the common issue of children
being unvaccinated, although vaccination
itself only prevents 80 to 90 percent of
children falling ill, said Tran Dac Phu,
the head of the Preventative Health
Department.
Hydrofoil Indefinite Ban in

Place
Following a hydrofoil fire early in 2014,
the Ministry of Transport has called for a
continued and indefinite ban on the boat
transportation system to Vung Tau.
Although operators of the high-speed
boats have hopes for a resumption of
service, the ban was not lifted despite
operators claiming that all technical faults
identified during inspection had been fixed.
The hydrofoil operators warn that
they face bankruptcy in the face of an
indefinite suspension of the service.
They also face potential competition
from the HCMC-Long Thanh-Dau Giay
expressway which was completed in
early January 2014. The new highway
substantially cuts down the road journey
time to Vung Tau and Ho Tram.
Insider
The Bartender // Madagui Soldiers // Vietnams Music Scene, in 25 Acts //

Saigon from Above // The Academy // The Antique Market // Working as a Co-Worker //
french grill // banh cuon ruoc tom // lubu // a short history of chicken rice // bed-in //
the outer reaches
insider
Many Faces
The Bartender
From spunky teenager making customers laugh at Le Pub to bar owner and champion
bartender, Pham Tien Tiep is the epitome of the rags-to-riches success story. And more
is still to come. Words by Katie Jacobs. Photos by David Harris
orry Im late, says Pham

Tien Tiep, dropping into the
seat opposite me. Ive just
come from the bartending
school I set up to teach hospitality and
bar skills to those who cant afford formal
training.
He shrugs and smiles shyly. Were here to
discuss his new bar on Nguyen Quang Bich,
but as the conversation progresses, I realise
this article could be about any number of
things the success story of a poor boy
from the countryside; the establishment of
a pro-bono hospitality school; how to make
a great Vietnamese-inspired cocktail; and of
course, the opening of a new bar by one of
Vietnams best known bartenders.
The first thing you notice about Tiep
is how young he looks for someone who
has accomplished so much. This young
spiky haired man has risen fast and has no
intention of stopping anytime soon. At the
age of 15, he left school and moved to Hanoi
from his small village 60km outside of the
city.
I had no idea what I wanted to do, he
recalls. I just knew that I should move to
Hanoi and find a job. He then starts to list
off the different jobs hes tried. I started as
a shoe shiner, then got a job as a labourer.
After that I worked at a small pho restaurant,
then I was in a factory making T-shirts.
These early work experiences went on to
shape his future career in ways he could
not have predicted at the time. I learned
a lot from those jobs, he says. My most
famous cocktail came straight out of my time

working at the pho stand.
From KOTO to The Metropole

Tiep landed his big break courtesy of his
sister who was enrolled in a course at KOTO;
a restaurant and training centre which
provides disadvantaged youth with a twoyear training programme in hospitality skills
and personal development.
Ive always loved music and I consider
myself a musician, says Tiep. So I was
pleased when my sister asked me to write a
birthday song to thank Mr. Jimmy Pham, the
founder of KOTO.
Mr. Pham was so impressed with the song
that he not only offered Tiep a place in the
KOTO programme, but also supported him
with a formal course in music. It wasnt
until his next job at Le Pub, however, that
Tiep discovered his true calling creating
cocktails.
I saw the other bartenders working
with all these glass bottles and shakers and
I thought, I love it, I want to do that. He
convinced the Le Pub manager and then coowner, Matt Law, to promote him to the bar,
where he learned how to mix drinks. Within
a year he was the bar manager. After a twoyear stint, craving more skills and experience
Tiep moved on from Le Pub. Despite lacking
a high school diploma and the requisite
certificate in five-star hospitality, Tiep set
his sights on Angelina, a luxury Italian
restaurant and bar in the Sofitel Metropole.
At first they said I wasnt qualified,
but I didnt stop asking for a chance. I

explained that bartending was my dream
and promised that if they gave me a shot, I
would become the best bartender in Hanoi.
Smiling cheekily he adds: After two years
of work, I did what I promised.
Say it with Pho

A couple of years ago, Tiep decided to
try out for Vietnams national bartending
competition I was so nervous I would
practise for hours with old liquor bottles
filled with water.
There are four rounds of competition that
culminate in the presentation of a signature
drink from each participant. Citing previous
work experience as inspiration, Tiep decided
to make a pho cocktail. I was surrounded
by pho all day, every day for one year, so the
smells and spices are still very firmly in my
mind.
But Tiep does not believe that a cocktail
is simply something to drink. It is a work
of art, he explains. It should have a
background and a soul.
So he created a story behind the drink that
linked it inextricably to the flavours, culture
and history of Hanoi.
I created the pho cocktail at the Metropole
Hotel, just above the war bunkers where the
American musician Joan Baez sang to the
staff and guests in December 1972 as bombs
fell on the city, he explains. The alcohol
in the cocktail is lit on fire to represent the
bombs, while spices, such as chilli and
cinnamon reflect the warmness of her voice.
I created the pho cocktail at the Metropole Hotel, just above the war
bunkers where the American musician Joan Baez sang to the staff and
guests in December 1972 as bombs fell on the city
Needless to say, this drink not

only secured Tieps success in the
competition, but also won him
acclaim throughout the country.
His victory in Vietnam led him to
Brazil where he went on to compete
against representatives from 50 other
countries.
The Bar
Mojito Bar, which opened at the end of
April, will soon be serving the famous
pho cocktail as well as many of Tieps
other creations, such as a fish-sauce
based drink infused with the citrus,
spices, and herbs commonly eaten
with snails. However, for those with
more conventional tastes, the welltrained bartenders will also be serving
a range of more traditional cocktails.
We have a great Mojito recipe, says
Tiep reassuringly.
The bar is housed in an old French
villa that has been completely
renovated.
We want to make this a place
where people can relax, talk and
think about life, says Vu Thang,
Tieps financial partner and the chief
designer of Mojito Bar. By keeping
the historic facade but modernising the
interior, we hope to inspire people to
reflect on the past but also to look to
the future. The second floor replicates
a Vietnamese family house; we want
people to feel at home. The top floor
is covered in glass, and we plan to
make it like a garden so our guests
can escape the city and feel closer to
nature.
Tiep shrugs in answer to my
question about whether there will be
more bars to come.
We want to make sure Mojito Bar
is perfect, he says. Then we might
think of opening more bars. It is better
to have one really good bar than
several average ones.
But one thing is for sure, Tiep has no
intention of staying still for too long.
My name is Tien Tiep which means
to keep going up, to keep walking
forward. So that is what I intend to
do.
Mojito Bar is at 19 Nguyen Quang
Bich, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
insider
INSIDER
Madagui Soldiers
Scenes from a TV movie portraying the life of the late Italian journalist and author
Oriana Fallaci were recently filmed in Vietnam. Jon Aspin goes behind the scenes,
deep into the Vietnamese jungle. Photos by Benedetta Brentan
EXT. DAY (Dac To Camp)

A film crew works during the afternoon
heat in a clearing of the Vietnamese jungle.
Actors and extras smoke prop cigarettes
while waiting in position on an elaborate
military set carved out of red earth. Water
bottles are passed out by production
staffers, fires are stoked with tyre rubber
and tree branches planted in the dusty
ground are scorched using oxyacetylene
cans. There is excited chatter among the
cast and crew as we wait for a direction.
Director: (gesturing wildly, charging
out of his viewing tent) SILENZIO!!
SILEENZZIOO VAFFANCULO! Giovanni can
I have some silence on my set please?!! I need
silence to do my work. PLEASE, I beg you!!
Assistant Director: (scurrying around,
sweating profusely) Si Marco, si.
Director: (hands clasped together in
prayer) Pronti Giovanni, PRONTI!

*****
nd so continues day two on the

set of LOriana, a two part, madefor-television biopic about the
late Italian activist, journalist and
author, Oriana Fallaci.
The director losing his proverbial pasta
e fagioli in the 38-degree tropical heat is
Marco Turco. Hes the passionate man
from Rome responsible for telling the story
of Oriana, a feminist before there were
feminists. Famous for interviewing the likes
of Muammar Gaddafi, Deng Xiaoping, The
Ayatollah Khomeini and General Vo Nguyen
Giap, Ms. Fallaci was so divisive that not
even half of the people on that list liked her.
Henry Kissinger described his interview
with her as the single most disastrous
conversation I have ever had with any
member of the press.
Im an extra in the film about her life
along with 50 other expats from Ho Chi
Minh City. We have all responded to an open
call for soldiers and three weeks later find
ourselves both dressed up and sweating just
outside Cat Tien National Park in Madagui.
Its a part of the country abundant with the
type of dense green foliage and ochre red
dust synonymous with films about the war,
making it a prime location to shoot. Its also
hot. Very hot.
Somehow Ive been made captain,
meaning Im head of the department
in charge of pointing at fake Viet Cong
strongholds and yelling fake orders at a
bunch of fake privates. I tell myself its an
immense and important role.
The Crew
As we wait between takes on the set
a paintball course dressed up to look
convincingly like a US military stronghold
the sense of the surreal is with us. Were

living in Vietnam, getting paid to be in a
movie traversing the sensitive topic of war,
wearing military uniforms and pointing
guns at imaginary enemies. In terms of stuff
men should do before they die, youd have
to equate it to moving to Munich and getting
a job as a beer taster during Oktoberfest.
In any case its real boys' own stuff and
Im thinking of selling the concept as the
ultimate bachelor party slash weekend
away for blokes. But making movies is not
about drinking beer, its about collaboration,
getting back to one thats first position
for those not in the biz and waiting. Oh
yes, being an extra on a film is definitely
about waiting.
Two days into the three-day shoot and as
an astute captain and observer of the human
condition, I can see that all of this waiting
has affected my men. My thin thread of fake
authority is quickly waning getting back
to one is becoming less and less of a priority.
I need to reach out. To do this I try to meet as
many of my fellow soldiers as possible, and
among my squad I find Louis from Nigeria,
a father and DJ here in Saigon for the last six
years.
Louis looks the part as well as anyone
think Carl Witherspoon in Predator
and is even given some lines during a key
emotional sequence. A novice actor, hes
nervous when his turn comes, but does well,
so I ask him how he feels when its over.
Lets go have a beer, he quips, a relieved
smile settling on his face.
Also present is Cyril, a wounded
programmer from the Ukraine. Hes
surprisingly upbeat for a man shot in the
stomach, but despite his smiles Im not
holding out much hope for him. I decide to
prescribe him some morphine and move on.
Kyle is here as well, a musician, teacher and
theatre major from the US. Hes acted before
and has been asked to cry on cue, which he
does, to the delight of Marco and his DOP.
I didnt know when they were going to
call me, he tells me. So Ive been holding
onto the feeling of wanting to cry since I got
here. Its done now, so I can enjoy the rest of
the shoot!
His effort reminds me of the credit that
has to go to those who inhabit this high
pressure, competitive world. Tim Daish is
another of the professionals on set, a trained
actor from London with an Italian agent. He
plays a long-lost friend of Oriana.
I got sick on my first night here in
Vietnam, lost my phone and didnt know
what scene I was doing the next day, he
says. I ended up having to deliver my most
important scenes with Vittoria (Vittoria
Puccini who plays the lead) in half a fever.
I was sweating buckets, but its the way it
goes on these things. You just gotta do it.
His story makes me happy to be in the
low responsibility role of captain, despite
being told that it was a job that didnt
come with a long life expectancy during
the real thing. Hopefully Ill be ok here, the
Im an extra in the film about [Oriana Fallacis] life along with 50 other
expats from Ho Chi Minh City. We have all responded to an open call for
soldiers and three weeks later find ourselves dressed up and sweating
just outside Cat Tien National Park in Madagui
Making movies is not about drinking beer, its about collaboration,

getting back to one thats first position for those not in the biz
and waiting. Oh yes, being an extra on a film is definitely about waiting
most life threatening objects appear to be the fish heads

served at lunch.
The Vietnam Factor

The rest of my squad is a mixed bag of French, Brits,
Americans, a guy named Miguel, Nigerians and a Tom
Berenger look-a-like from Perth, Australia. Theyre
enjoying the experience as much as I am, snapping away
at each other and eulogising about war what is it good
for? Some of us have experience in this, but most of us do
not, and weve all been shipped to the location by local
production studio, CreaTV, who are looking after us well
by putting us up in the Madagui Tourist Resort nearby.
CreaTV specialise in giving a home to international
productions like this one and are run by Othello Khanh, a
self-made pioneer and filmmaker who started this business
on his own 20 years ago.
When international productions and news media come
to Vietnam, they know to come to me, says Othello,
energised by a recent spate of activity. Its been a crazy
week, one helicopter in the air over Saigon for LOriana,
and me sitting in another in the Gulf of Thailand, filming
news footage for ABC!
For the cast and crew of LOriana its a unique
experience to be able to do this in Vietnam. Its seldom
that the authorities will allow guns, helicopters, jeeps,
explosions and American uniforms in combination.
Throughout filming, representatives are here keeping a
close eye on things, and I am assured that even the script
has been given approval.
This production has been to India, Indonesia, Tunisia,
Greece and Italy, and on a very low budget, says Marco.
This is not Hollywood, so we have to accept that things
will not always be as we want them to be, referring
directly to a lack of a helicopter as required by the script
on this day. This is life.
I ask him how people who will see this film should feel.
I want to make a good movie, he says. Oriana Fallaci
was someone that people loved or hated in my country,
and the same will apply to this film. I am prepared for
the criticism over balance or something like this, but I
dont care. My job is to capture the soul of this important
character, and to make a good film that people will enjoy.
Oriana will always be to the people whatever they want
her to be.
In this way Marco is just like the subject of his film;
tough, anti-establishment and prepared to take criticism.
For myself and the rest of my squad, we have the photos to
prove that we have lived out a boyhood fantasy. And while
Im not sure its the start of an alternative career for many of
us, some of us have performed well in the heat of battle. The
flashbacks will come later for sure, but for now its still hot
in the jungle, the director is still shouting, the cameras are
still rolling and the Viet Cong are everywhere.
Who Was Oriana FAllaci?

An Italian journalist, author, and political interviewer, Oriana
Fallaci became well-known worldwide for her coverage of war
and revolution, as well as for her interviews with many world
leaders during the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s.
Her book Interview with History, contains candid, lengthy and
penetrating interviews with many dignitaries including Indira
Gandhi, Muammar Gaddafi, Yasser Arafat, Golda Meir, Deng
Xiaoping, Henry Kissinger and Vo Nguyen Giap. Divisive and
yet to the point, after retirement she wrote a series of articles
and books critical of Islam that aroused support as well as
opposition.
Cover Story
Until recently, musical styles from overseas were copied rather than developed,
covered in their original form rather than moulded into the fabric of the music of
Vietnam. Karaoke culture, it seemed, had more currency than original music.
That has started to change. A forward-thinking group of promoters and
musicians are pushing original music, and theyve helped alter the landscape.
What follows is a breakdown of the scenes theyve made space for, through 25 acts
whove been given enough leash to thrive.
Vietnams
Music Scene,
in 25 Acts
Words by Karen Hewell, Katie Jacobs, Hoa Le, Elisabeth Rosen and Ed Weinberg.
Photos by Andy Crompton, Ed Weinberg and Francis Xavier
Hanoi
Underground
Electric Yard Dogs

The Strangers
If you go down to Lang
Yen Phu put your money
She looks like an angel,
Hi-Jinks
in your shoes, cause
why do I got the devil
the women down in Lang Trickles of a wilting tale,
on my mind?
Yen Phu got the Laaang penetrate my epic fail
Members: Tim Coker (vocals/rhythm
Yen Phu blues!
Members: Chris The Kaiser
Ludaescher (bass); Mike Model Man
Buscombe (drums/vocals); Jez The
Bridlington Flash Hartley (lead guitar/
vocals); Simon Otis Reddington (guitar/
vocals)
Style: Barroom rock n roll
Playing career: Five years, countless
shows
Stage presence: Smart but weathered
(read: cowboy boots)
Online presence: Search Facebook for
Electric Yard Dogs
Origin story: The guitarist happened
to find a left-handed electric guitar for
VND800,000 from a small shop on Cua Dong
eight years ago and started playing again.
One thing led to another...
Influences: Texas blues, The Fabulous
Thunderbirds, Dr. Feelgood
Cool fact: Theyre the only Hanoi
band that regularly tours Ho Chi Minh City
and Phnom Penh.
Haunts: R&R Tavern (256 Nghi
Tam, Tay Ho, Hanoi), Sharkys (130 Street,
Phnom Penh), Number 5 Bar (44 Pasteur,
Q1, HCMC)
Future: Check them out at Hanois
EuroCham Festival May 24.
Members: Drew Vital (guitar/vocals);

Todd Weber (drums); Tomi Ogunbawo
(keys/synth); Duong Pham (guitar/vocals);
Natan Oliviera (bass); Gemma Popplestone
(vocals); Ella Walls (vocals)
Style: Reggae-funk
Playing career: 2 years, 46.5 shows
Stage presence: They dance, you dance
Online presence: facebook.com/
hijinkssoulfulfunksters
Origin story: Drew and a couple of
the other blokes found each other, jammed a
bit and decided they liked the sound.
Influences: Bob Marley, Stevie Wonder,
James Brown
Coolest prop: Duongs hats
Favourite cover: Stevie Wonder,
Master Blaster
Haunts: Hanoi Rock City (27 To Ngoc
Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi)
Future: New original tunes are on the
menu, along with releasing an album.
guitar/harmonica); Mark Ginder (bass);

Florian Philippe (lead guitar/drums); Luca
Le (drums/lead guitar)
Style: Indie rock injected with folk,
blues, country, reggae and funk
Playing career: 1.5 years, 50+ shows
Stage presence: Casual Tim often
performs barefoot
thestrangershanoi
Origin story: Music brought together
four people who didnt know each other (get
it?).
Influences: The Beatles, The Who,
Bob Dylan, Prince, Keziah Jones, Stevie Ray
Vaughan, Chuck Berry, Elvis
Coolest costume: Tims vests
Favourite cover: Bob Dylan, Knockin
On Heavens Door
Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi), Rockstore (61 Ma May,
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi), The Doors Caf (11
Hang Chinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi)
Career highlight: Financing,
producing, writing and distributing their
first EP Wont Stop now available on
iTunes and Spotify.
Future: Check the bands Facebook
page for updates on their Wont Stop 2014
Summer Tour, which will extend to other
regional countries as well as Vietnam.
Underground Legacy:
A Tribute to Go Lim
Say Oms
Im going down to the

river to wash certain
items in my truck
Members: Nerys Joseph (keys/
vocals); Jeremy Gilbert (guitar/vocals); Joss
Berrett (drums); Wil Hoang (bass/vocals);
Samantha Spridellis (violin); Nathan Cooper
(banjo); Julian Goetz (violin)
Style: Quirky indie pop
Playing career: 9 months, 5 shows
Stage presence: What could have
potentially been a clash of styles but melds
surprisingly well.
Online presence: facebook.com/sayoms
Origin story: They met at various
bars in various countries, and came together
around laughter and instruments.
Influences: Nerys: Nostalgia, notions
and everything and everyone I meet.
Jeremy: Trees, kittens and kitchen utensils.
Coolest prop: Wils wig
Favourite covers: Anything obscure
that they can deconstruct
Haunts: Cama ATK (73 Mai Hac De,
Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi), The Hanoi Social
Club (6 Ngo Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi)
and wherever theyll give us free drinks
Future: Trumpets will soon be added
to the mix!
One of Us is Drunk
Re-read all the flash

cards / Get a star / Naw
its not cal, kid, its car
Members: Luca Le (percussion);
Antonio Viray, Jr. (bass); DA Vo (lead guitar);
Daniel Williamson (rhythm guitar/vocals)
Style: Bad-ass indie rock
Stage presence: Did we say bad-ass
yet?
Online presence: None yet. They do it
old school.
Origin story: They met at open mic
night.
Influences: Black Keys, Chet Faker,
Dead Weather
Coolest footwear: Daniels ghetto
blaster space boots: Theyre giant silver
high tops I had to get when the band made
fun of my shoes.
Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi) co-owned by lead
guitarist DA
Future: More original songs.
In June 2012 alongside international

acts like Chinas Carsick Cars and Japans
Electric Eel Shock the all-girl, grunge
rock foursome Go Lim took the stage in
Hanoi as CAMA Festivals Vietnamese
rock representatives. Borrowing elements
and inspiration from the Yeah Yeah Yeahs,
experimental guitarist Nguyen Manh Hung
and avant garde art studio Nha San, Go
Lim was a breath of fresh air among the
male-dominated local rock scene. The
bands collection of original sound scoffed
at the insipid love songs that dominated the
local airwaves, and instead featured songs
on oddball topics like being a hungry cat.
In a high-energy, unhinged performance
that featured frontwoman Nga Nhi flailing
wildly while whipping the audience into
a frenzy, CAMA Festival 6 saw Go Lim
cement themselves as one of the most
audacious, original and sometimes
downright bizarre live acts in Vietnam. In
2012, they were the band to watch.
Yet, the next year, the unstoppable
creative force of frontwoman Nga Nhi
came to an abrupt end. In October of
2013, Nhi passed away unexpectedly
from complications arising from her
chronic autoimmune disease Red Lupus,
and left Go Lim fans in shock. The outfit
which held the promise of being the
catalyst for Vietnams newest underground
phenomenon was left reeling in the
face of losing the driving force behind their
forward momentum.
Yet, despite the palpable void that
was left in the Hanoi underground
music scene, Go Lims legacy is still felt
strongly in the citys creative community.
As fierce advocates of independent
music and creative expression, Go
Lim was an anomaly among many of
their rock counterparts. The group had
set a precedent for original music and
fresh sound, which pushed even the
underground scene to its creative limits.
For Hanois underground music sphere,
bands like Go Lim paved the way for the
scenes original music to find an audience
in the city. By bursting from Hanois music
subculture and onto the big stage, Go Lim
is hopefully the first of many enigmatic
bands to put Vietnam on the global music
map. Karen Hewell
Electronic
Space Panther
Hexagonal waves flow

through your eyes, and
you want all things to
re-align
Members: Bryon Ramsey-Leonard
Rudd (keys/sampler/vocals); David Moses
Haimovich (keys/Reason/vocals); Daniel
Day Long (visuals); Gareth Katz (bass)
Style: Psychedelically-inspired, tight
and soulful beats and bangers
Playing career: 10 months, 15 gigs
Stage presence: Just some dudes
having fun pressing keys, twiddling knobs
and enjoying the music theyre making.
cosmiclynx
Origin story: The idea began [when
we were saying], Man theres so many DJs,
and theres a lot of VJs, but there are no live
electronic bands.
Influences: They used to start each
show with a distorted cover of Animal
Collectives Banshee Beat.
Coolest element: Daniels visuals
hands down. Dan brings a whole other
element to the table. Through his visions
we become an audio-visual experience the
whole family will certainly not enjoy.
Career highlight: They composed
music for Emily Navarras dance-projectionspoken word spectacle Standpoint Theories at
Cargo Bar (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC)
Future: An EP out by summer and
hopefully a small tour to follow.
Vu Nhat Tan Group

(VNTG)
They love playing in the

dark
Members: Vu Nhat Tan and a rotating
array of musicians
Style: Experimental electronic
chill-out
Playing career: 5 years, countless
shows
Stage presence: High-tech (computers,
DIY electro-acoustic devices) fused with
traditional (dan bau, bamboo flute)
Online presence: vunhattangroup.com
Origin story: They just wanted to
play music on Sunday, so they called the
group Sunday afternoon music. Later they
changed the name.
Haunts: Cama ATK (73 Mai Hac De,
Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi)
Career highlight: Playing Piano Khoan
Cat Be Tong (Piano and Concrete Drilling
and Cutting) at the Hanoi New Music
Festival. Inspired by the desire to record the
noise of his neighbours repairing their home,
Tan remixed the sound of concrete drilling
and cutting with soothing piano tunes.
Future: VNTG will provide the
soundtrack for two upcoming performance
pieces: Seven Days in the City, in which
a dancer showcases the lives of seven
characters, and Hanoise, a dialogue between
the noise of the street and music.
Dan DMN SLYR

Nguyen
Because the sky is

bluuue, it makes me
cryyyyyyy
Style: Space pop-hop jazzy
fusion-esque
Playing career: Solo active since
1999
Stage presence: Contained
psychedelic free-punk freakout
Online presence: dan-nguyen.com
Origin story: A vessel brought to
Earth, designed to eat a lot and transmute
the sounds and images of the universe and
electrons.
Influences: Im influenced by the
ever-changing landscape of contemporary
electronic music, and the canon of past
spiritual jazz, funk, boogie, hip hop and prog
rock. I havent played any covers but am
thinking of Mariah Careys Shake It Off.
Coolest prop: I guess my face is my
fave stage prop. Sometimes I set quartz
crystals and other gems around me while
playing.
Career highlights: Ill always
remember the first time I was flown out to
do a gig internationally, first-class, five-star
hotel, huge fee and expenses. My parents
were proud of me (finally) even though I
wasnt a doctor or violinist.
Future: Dans releasing a compilation
of rare Vietnamese New Wave in June,
digitally and on cassette tape.
Another Dimension
Nile Crews
Im stealin air like a

millionaire
Members: Ben Marinelli (drums);
Paul Kinsman (synth/keys/vocals); Justin
Mckinnon (guitar); Kirt Hainzer (bass/
vocals)
Style: Soulgaze
Stage presence: An electronic wall
of sound. Think heavy synths and tight
rhythms.
Online presence: soundcloud.com/
nilecrews
Origin story: In many hazy late night
sessions, Paul and Kirt wrote a single piece
of music, which Ben and Jussi dropped like
it was hot.
Influences: Chet Baker, J Dilla, INXS
Coolest element: Attitude. As they put
it: Aint nothing cooler than four sexy boys
layin it down!
Haunts: Madake (81 Xuan Xieu, Tay
Ho, Hanoi)
Future: Shows at Hanoi Rock City (27
To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi) and Madake
in May.
Growsound
Slow beats to drop your

booty to the ground
Style: Experimental / electronic /
progressive noise
Playing career: 1 year
growsound
Origin story: In his youth Growsound
was in a nu-metal band, where he played
synth. That didnt work out but he still
has the synth.
Influences: Aphex Twin, Luke Vibert
Coolest piece of equipment: Korg Electribe
Synth buttons, knobs, dials and slides
Haunts: Dear departed Darts Darts
Darts (defunct) and Cargo (7 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4, HCMC)
Future: Play at Cargo again. They
have the best sound system in the city.
Live visuals are jumping off in Vietnam.

And leading the way are the constituents of
Vietnams first visual collective, LAV [L ive
A udio V isual ] S yndicate .
Thanh Tung Le Crazy Monkey
got into live visuals after working as an
illustrator, graphic designer and an animator.
He looked up Cao Hoang Long now
Syndicate fellow LongX for help on an
interactive visual to be projected over a
dancer via Kinect, at institute of L ower
L earning s July 2013 event Come to Daddy
6 at Y oko (22 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3, HCMC).
People stick their mind on how [dancers]
interact with the visuals, Monkey says, as
just like Beyoncs performance. It was
Beyonc and her sexy dancing, interacting
with the visual in the background. But that
visual is pre-rendered.
Monkeys visuals follow a different rhythm.
What Im doing is the dancer interacts with
the visual live. Whenever you move, the
visual will follow you. Everything is rendered
in real time.
Space Panther visualiser and the third
projectionist in the Syndicate, Daniel Day
Long, came to live visuals in a different way.
Bryon [of Space Panther] asked me to do
the visuals for his show at G eisha (defunct)
and I had played with the programme only
one day before the actual show. It was really
weird and looking back at it now, probably
the most creative Ive ever been. I figured, hell
why not, we get free drinks right?
Standpoint Theories was both Monkey
and Daniels second show an interactive
dance-music-projection-spoken word
performance, which required their evertransmuting lustre to pull off.
Over the time since, theyve taken on
several equally unique challenges. Just this
month, Monkey will have some projections to
lay up at the ASEAN Pride Music Festival (a
CAMA V ietnam and US E mbassy H anoi
joint venture), while the rest of the crew is
launching a new model Mercedes at S aigon
O utcast (188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q1,
HCMC). Open-participation workshops are
upcoming.
If theres an electronic show going on,
Daniel says, we wanna be part of it. If
theres a DJ playing some dance hits, well
be there. Ed Weinberg
Pop
Masky Q
In a club, people want

more than music these
days they want a
show
Style: Think Blue Man Group, then
put it in a Vietnamese club alongside
pounding dance music
Playing career: 2 years
Stage presence: With some LED backlit
drums and water and the mask, always
Masky Q is something between performance
artist and musician
Online Presence: Search Facebook for
Masky Q
Origin Story: I loved club music, so
creating a drum show with the music I loved
with DJ David at Bling Club (148 Cong
Quynh, Q1, HCMC) was the way to do it.
Haunts: A regular alongside the DJs
at Chill Skybar (Floor 26 and 27, AB Tower,
76A Le Lai, Q1, HCMC), Gossip (79 Tran
Hung Dao, Q1, HCMC), Apocalypse Now
(2C Thi Sach, Q1, HCMC) and his debut
stage at Bling Club
Future: Maskys new project features
collaborative work alongside scratch DJs that
will deliver live, on-the-spot improvisation.
Le Cat Trong Ly
The Danang musician

ditched her classical
music studies for
decidedly chirpier
singer-songwriter
stylings
Photo provided by Josh Turner
Style: Catchy pop singer-songwriter

tunes that feature flute, trumpet, violin and
Trong Lys own swirling guitar rhythms
Playing career: Since 2007
Stage presence: Trong Ly is rarely
seen without a stool to lounge on, and her
accompaniment is borderline orchestral,
with the likes of violins and pianos regularly
playing alongside.
lecattronglymusic
Origin: She started out playing in her
sisters caf Nep Caf (15 Hoang Van Thu,
Danang), along with two other guitarists.
Influences: Her music, although
certainly contemporary, borrows heavily
from northern Vietnamese folk sounds.
Hai Chau
Gotta take control /

This is my life / Im
running out of time /
I gotta do what feels
right
Style: Pop-rock, with some urban flair
Playing career: Over 2 years
Stage presence: Active, fit, powerful
of passion
Online presence: Search Youtube for
Hai Chau
Origin story: After winning the
Vietnamese version of reality singing
show The Winner Is, Chau became the first
Vietnamese artist to sign with Universal
Music Group
Influences: Adele, Christina Aguilera
Haunts: WE Lounge (172H Nguyen
Dinh Chieu, Q3, HCMC), Dong Dao Lounge
(164 Pasteur, Q1, HCMC), Acoustic Bar (6E
Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, HCMC), Yoko (22
Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3, HCMC), RFC (25C Tu
Xuong, Q3, HCMC)
Future: Shes releasing an MV and a
Universal-produced single.
The Lost Art
Suboi
Telling me you on
magazine / Next time
you say you speak
Mandarin
shows
Style: Hip hop

Playing career: 7 years, countless
Stage presence: Tough but girly: I

want to balance the harshness in my heart
and my feminine look.
suboimusic
Origin story: She started rapping
with a nu-metal band at the age of 15 and
quickly became a fixture on the growing
underground hip hop scene.
Influences: Eminem, Kendrick Lamar,
Erykah Badu
Coolest accessory: My bandana: It
makes me feel like a chola!
Philosophy: Aim for when all your
emotion comes out and you do it with your
heart.
Future: A world tour including
English-speaking countries might soon be
in the works.
Vi anh ngu si, long

da khong suy nghi
Because Im dull witted,
my soul didnt think
Members: Daniel Tooman (lead
vocals/rhythm guitar); Yuichi Matsumoto
(lead guitar); Andrew Thompson (bass/
vocals); George Bussell (drums)
Style: Expats playing punk/rock
covers of Vietnamese ballads
Playing career: 1 year, 2 to 4 gigs a
week
Stage presence: Drummer George
has a strong punk background so he always
likes to keep the tempo reasonably high and
driving. Yuichi on the other hand is blues
and soul, so the riffs and solos follow his
lead.
thelostartband
Origin story: Three Brits looking to
gig meet a Japanese guitar virtuoso.
Influences: I have huge respect for
the lead singer of Microwave, a Vietnamese
band weve played with on a number of
occasions. He has a vocal range Ive never
heard before in a live gig.
Coolest prop: Yuichi occasionally
wears a scarf, which is nice.
Haunts: Weekly gigs at Acoustic Bar
(6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, HCMC), Yoko (22
Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3, HCMC), RFC (25C Tu
Xuong, Q3, HCMC)
Career highlights: New Years Eve
2013. We were playing our largest stage
yet, 23/9 park on Pham Ngu Lau. Huge
crowd, all sitting. Very quiet. End of our first
Vietnamese song, [there was an] awesome
response.
Future: Recording and writing more
original songs.
Hip Hop Meets V-Pop

On Apr. 19, Saigons rising bilingual rap star
Suboi took to the stage, opening for R&B
superstar Kelly Rowland at the ColorMe Run
races musical finale, to a crowd of 5,000. A
few years ago, Suboi was virtually unknown
by the mainstream masses, with only a cult
following in the still heavily underground hip
hop and rap scenes in Vietnam.
But with international influence and western
hip hop elements making their way onto
Vietnamese airwaves, the countrys own
home-grown rappers and hip-hop talent
began emerging into the mainstream.
V-pop, for a long time, was about mushy
love songs, says Huynh Thi Huyen Nar
Hanh of YanTV, who suggests that younger,
more music-savvy locals have grown tired
of bubblegum-pop sameness. Hip-hop is
young and fresh. I think people [here] wanted
to start hearing local music that followed
those international trends.
The road towards bigger and more
mainstream audiences was paved by artists
like Hanois Kimmese, the northern citys hiphop queen, who had a similarly underground
start. Now she has caught the attention of
more mainstream audiences in Vietnam, by
integrating R&B and ballad-style lyrics to her
otherwise less accessible music.
The same can be said for R&B and pop
crossovers JustaTee and Mr. T, who both still
add a certain pop sheen to hip hop-inspired
sound. But with pop and hip hop crossover
tracks like JustaTees Xin Anh Dung that
featured rapper Lil Knight, more underground
elements are slowly making their way onto
Vietnams pop stage.
Regardless, fiercely independent hip hop
crews in both Saigon and Hanoi deliberately
operate out of the spotlight, and keep the
underground rap and hip hop scene still
partially in the shadows. For now, Vietnamese
hip hop and rap artists seem to follow in the
path of their western counterparts. Only time
will tell how the countrys underground scene
might bring forth a uniquely Vietnamese
sound. Karen Hewell
Plugged-in
Oringchains
They want the audience

to literally feel the
performance
Members: Linh Sua (drums), Vy Vlash
(guitar); Son Xi (vocals); Duong Chuoi
(synth); Hung Xu (bass)
Style: Heavy rock / electronic
Playing career: 5 years, hundreds of
shows
Stage presence: Heavy on lighting and
visuals
Online presence: oringchainsband.com
Origin story: Five friends bonded
over their love of motorcycles and rock.
When they decided to form a band, they
called it Oringchain (a specific motorcycle
chain) to signify not only their shared
interest but also the unbreakable bond
between band members.
Influences: Linkin Park, Hollywood
Undead, Muse
Coolest effect: The visuals and
lighting developed by guitarist Vlash
Career highlights: Winning Asian Best
Band in 2010 and first prize at Tiger Translate
Battle of the Bands 2012.
Future: Watch for their debut album,
tentatively scheduled to drop in May.
COCC
Ai ve chai lac xoong do

hu ban hong
Members: Phuc Phan (guitar/vocals/
keys); Quoc (bass, guitar, vocals); Cuong
Tuan (drums, vocals, guitar)
Playing career: They started out
around 2011, although Phuc had played in
various projects before conning Quoc and
Cuong into becoming CoCC
Style: Mostly grungy, sometimes dark
and brooding, always with a certain screw
the status quo flavour
CoCC Band
Origin Story: They started out small,
and with not a cent for production the
problem was solved by recording in a
bathroom, for the acoustics?
Influences: Flaming Lips, Radiohead,
Cake, Tool
Haunts: Theyve played at Darts
Darts Darts (defunct), Hard Rock Caf (39
Le Duan, Q1, HCMC) and Yoko (22 Nguyen
Thi Dieu, Q3, HCMC)
Famous show: Their most recent
show, presented by Onion Cellar and
alongside other rising indie bands, was
cleverly entitled CoCC Rock.
White Noiz
What I got aint nothing

much but a flame in my
blood
Members: Cu Owl Nguyen (guitar/
vocals); Gokhan Dedebal (guitar); Tam
Nguyen (bass); Burak Dedebal (drums)
Style: Energetic tropical rock
Stage presence: Sweaty passionate
Online presence: whitenoizvn.bandpage.
com
Influences: Black Keys, The Script, U2,
Switchfoot, Radiohead, Foo Fighters, Thanh
Bui
Coolest prop: Electric tape and an
open shirt
Famous show: Halloween Sunset at
Saigon Outcast (188/1 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, HCMC) the first live show they
organised themselves
Future: Vietnamese tradition
somehow is against rock music. When an
audience comes to a show, they want to
dance, they want to shout, they want to
yell... but they care so much about the others.
So we have to rock harder.
The Making of a Scene
PAK band
Wuu
Extreme metal and

extreme people are
everywhere even
Vietnam
Members: Trung (guitar); Van (vocals);
Cormac (drums)
Style: Loud, angry grindcore metal
Playing career: Since early 2011,
theyve played around 10 gigs, give or take a
few underground shhhh shows
Stage presence: On par with a lot of
metal bands in Vietnam and abroad, things
on stage can get a little heavy
Online presence: Social media is far
too mainstream
Origin: The bands name comes from
war hero Bok Wuu, who withstood torture
and mutilation to protect his village in
Gia Lai which happens to be frontman
Trungs home province.
Famous show: Wuu recently
performed in world-famous metal/
grindcore/thrash metal festival Obscene
Extreme in Jakarta, Indonesia the only
Vietnamese band playing the show.
Haunts: Theyve drawn crowds
at Darts Darts Darts (defunct), Hard
Rock Caf (39 Le Duan, Q1, HCMC) and
metalhead mecca Metallic Bar (41 Ba Huyen
Thanh Quan, Q3, HCMC)
Lan gio cuon gio cuon

bay di den noi nao /
Tim noi binh yen xa xoi
/ Cuoi chan troi / Mang
mot kiep song khon kho
bay di hoai
Members: Pham Anh Khoa (rhythm
guitar/vocals); Duong Duc Tam (bass);
Luong Binh Khoi (drums); Tran Anh Tu
(guitar); Nguyen Duy Nghia (keys)
Style: Rock with Vietnamese flavour
Playing career: 3 years in present form
Stage presence: Like a guy from Cam
Ranh Bay, a little bit of wildness
Online presence: musicfaces.vn/
phamanhkhoa
Origin story: Like an accident...
were like a family
Influences: Aerosmith, Red Hot Chili
Peppers, Limp Bizkit, Eminem
Masters: Duc Tri (in music) and Tuan
Khanh (in life)
Coolest props: His Telecaster, long
hair and energy
Haunts: Hard Rock Caf (39 Le Duan,
Q1, HCMC)
Famous show: Playing Tao Dan
Stadium (1 Huyen Tran Cong Chua, Q1,
HCMC) in 2009, at the show that has come
to be known as PAK and you in the rain a
half metre of rain drenched the packed-out
crowd. This year, theyll reprise the show for
its fifth anniversary.
Future: Two albums, one MV, one TV
show Ultimate Entertainer and a 600km
charity run from Phan Rang to Danang
In less than 10 years, the burgeoning

metal and hardcore scene in Vietnam has
done what most underground scenes
take decades to do. But with the kind of
dedicated audience that managed to pool
VND60 million in a crowdfunding effort to
bring hardcore band The Ghost Inside to
Saigon last May, its clear that the scene
here is different than most.
Since the early 2000s, Vietnam has seen
exponential growth in local metal, hardcore
and grindcore bands, and consequently,
an equally growing fanbase. Apart from
the few bands that have managed to cross
over into the mainstream including
national phenomenon Microwave, metal
powerhouse Black Infinity and progressive
rock outfit Ngu Cung Vietnams metal
scene boasts a collection of still largely
undiscovered talent that relies on a tight-knit
community of young fans.
Metal bands like Seismic Origin,
Sagometal, and now disbanded Multiplex
were all founded in the mid-2000s, but are
already considered veterans in the scene.
In a country dominated by commercial pop
and dime-a-dozen dance anthems, young
fans disenchanted with the status quo are
leaping into the scene faster than ever.
Even kids that are [a little] rebellious
need some community, and these guys are
definitely getting that [in metal], says Cormac,
drummer of metal band Wuu. He pegs the
growing fanbase as a symptom of locals
needing a sense of belonging, even on the
fringes. I think theyre definitely surrounded by
people that are like-minded, and they feel like
theyve got something in common.
The sense of community in the scene
gave rise to festivals built largely on local
talent. Hellfest an annual mini-festival
featuring only a handful of local bands
kicked off in both Ho Chi Minh City
and Hanoi last year. Rock Concert 2014:
Battleship is trading on the Rockstorm
name and is on its way to selling out some
stadiums of its own. Even major brands are
recognising the growing scene T iger
T ranslate ' s recent Battle of the Bands
featured Italian metal band Lacuna Coil as
the headliner. Karen Hewell
Saigon
Underground
The Love Below
Freckled Gypsys
The 67s (Sau Bay)
You ask me if Im sorry,

well, Im sorry that you
asked
Members: J Jesse Peterson (vocals/
guitar); Sami Eldirdiry-Osman (guitar/
vocals); Alec Schachner (bass); Anys Fatnassi
(drums); Fi Witton (sax)
Style: Drunk-a-billy rock
Playing career: 10 months
Stage presence: Akin to a hip-shaking
sexorcism
the67ssaubay
Origin story: We wanted to play rock
and roll, so we did.
Influences: Johnny Burnette, Link
Wray, 1950s rock n roll
Coolest piece of equipment: 1967
Fender Mustang guitar
Haunts: Cargo Bar (7 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4, HCMC), deciBel (79/2/5 Phan
Ke Binh, Q1, HCMC) and what used to be
the dingiest dive in town, Darts Darts Darts
(defunct)
If Im chasing my tail its

cos Im chasing yours
but Im happy to grab
Members: Maeve Meleady (vocals);
Julien Masson (guitar/looper)
Style: A mix of folk and soul, with
afrobeat, flamenco, blues and rock flavours
mixed in
Playing career: 2 years, 200 gigs
Stage presence: Intimate and simple,
with some gypsy flair and inter-song dad
jokes
Freckled Gypsys
Origin story: Okay, get the bucket
our eyes met in a forest in Dalat, we fell in
love and the rest is history.
Influences: Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd,
Etta James, Funkadelic, Paul Simon
Coolest props: Looper, xylophone and
white leather shoes
Haunts: Regulars at Ba Cay Choi (61
Ho Xuan Huong, Q3, HCMC), Snap Caf
(32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, HCMC), Ho Tram
Resort & Spa (Ho Tram, Ba Ria)
Future: Nearly a year after having
a baby, Maeve and Julien are working to
get back to producing new material, and
hopefully an album.
Let me get up on your

gluteus maximus, I know
your boyfriend will be
mad at us
Members: Andre Ngo (guitar/vocals);
Eric Smackdab (drums/vocals); Tanya
Smackdab (vocals/keys); Gabriel Kaouros
(bass/vocals)
Style: Hip hop / funk / soul
Playing career: 3 months (with several
years spent in different local bands)
Stage presence: Its funkable. You can
have sex to it.
thelovebelow-1
Origin story: While in the US
former Marmalades singer Tanya lyrically
collaborated with Andre, and the group
formed back in Saigon with fellow
Marmalade Eric and Cypriot import Gabriel.
Influences: The Roots, Digable Planets,
A Tribe Called Quest, Robert Glasper
Experiment
Coolest props: Tanyas Akai Miniak
Synth and Vocoder, Andres Gretsch Hollow
Body Electric Guitar together they ooze
sex and cool
Haunts: Cargo Bar (7 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4, HCMC)
Future: We have six tunes recorded
now, and three tunes in progress. Just trying
to get our name out there and hopefully start
touring internationally soon.
The Internationals
are Coming!
Ugwae
Ugwae sets usually

Tofu Band
end up being four or
five hours long, and
You have to stand
members will take turns still when the world is
and switch instruments shaking, let you see the
throughout the night
values of yourself, let
you know who you are
Members: Because of the transient
nature of musicians who perform with

Ugwae, each and every gig is unique and
different from the rest but these are the
main players now: Julien Jean-Louis Masson,
France (bass/djembe); Maxime Serge Michel
Delobel, France (didgeridoo); Alec Gorman
Schachner, US (percussion/mouth harp/
bass); David Luat Huu Tran, US (djembe/
guitar); Richard Gabriel Villalobos, US
(melodica); Fiona Mary Witton, UK (sax);
Emily Anne Navarra, US (trumpet);
Lawrence Andres Valencia, Philippines
(cajon); Jan Eliezer Brillantes Orbida,
Philippines (drums/guitar)
Style: Reggae / world / improv
Stage presence: Open jam
Ugwae
Origin story: We started inviting
our musician friends to jam at our gigs in
exchange for alcohol.
Influences: The vibe of the crowd
Coolest props: Rubber barn animals
and didgeridoos
Famous show: RFC (25C Tu Xuong,
Q3, HCMC) Apr. 10, 2012: The crowd
moved like a living thing.
Future: Yesterday is history,
tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift.
That is why it is called the present.
Master Ugwae
Members: David Tran (bass); To

Phuong (vocals); Janel Orbida (drums); Bui
Huynh (vocals, guitar); Hoai Anh (guitar)
Style: The band borrows elements
from reggae, electronic, trip hop, blues and
folk for something strangely ethereal and
supremely eclectic
Age: Around a year, 20 gigs
Stage presence: Frontwoman To
Phuong goes between swaying, eyes-closed
to being moments away from destroying a
guitar, sometimes all in the same song
Online Presence: Search Facebook for
TOFU band
Origin Story: We started out
in different bands, but we all felt like
something was missing thats how we
found each other.
Favourite Shows: The bands April
show at Cargo Bar (7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
HCMC) featured Crazy Monkeys projected
visuals on To Phuong dancing, lending a
certain visual element to TOFUs ethereal
sound but the band insists that an empty
stage with candles is perfectly fine.
Haunts: Theyre a regular at RFC
(25A Tu Xuong, Q1, HCMC), but theyve
been known to play Cargo Bar and Yoko (22
Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3)
Before last May, bringing an international

rock band to Saigon was exceedingly rare.
Sure, Bob Dylan came once and so did
Ratatat both at the behest of S aigon
S ound S ystem / C argo B ar (7 Nguyen
Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC) impresario Rod
Quinton. But unlike Hanoi, which thanks
to CAMA and other promoters has had
a regular flow of international acts, the
accepted wisdom was that lyrics-led,
non-pop-styled original music just couldnt
draw enough people or revenue in Saigon
to make it worth any touring band or
promoters while.
That started to change in March, when
English folk-punk singer-songwriter Frank
Turner came to Cargo as the star of the
first L oud M inority festival back when
promoters were still phrasing international
gigs as festivals. All proceeds went to
charity, but the event was an unqualified
success.
When American two-piece The Dodos
played S aigon O utcast (188/1 Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2, HCMC) two months later,
profit margins were on the line. Thrown
their way by a Shanghai-based promoter,
Outcasts Doan Phuong Ha and Linh
Nguyen together with Lix Bae, soon to
form T iny E xtinction were faced with a
choice: should they take a flyer on a nicheindie band or not? The Dodos were an odd
choice to start a revolution, but when they
drew nearly 300 people at VND300,000plus per person, it signaled the start of
something.
Party throwers like O D au ? fed off
this new breeze, collaborating with Tiny
Extinction on bringing in American hip hop
group Shabazz Palaces and the relatively
obscure punk band Dead Farmers from
Australia. And then Loud Minority got in
gear.
Under Damian Kilroys guidance, they
brought in buzz bands like Japandroids
(US) and Cub Scouts (AUS), and wellknown acts like Black Rebel Motorcycle
Club (US) and The Cribs (UK). Despite
close calls witness the barely exceeded
500-plus ticket breakeven on The Cribs
theyve continued to make it work. Even if it
means lugging a Cribs-requested Orange
amp all the way back from the UK.
Although there will be bumps in the road
(like Dirty Beaches WTF??), it seems like
Saigons finally catching up to its CAMAled northern neighbour, and putting itself on
the map. Ed Weinberg
Nha nhac (elegant music) refers to a

specific form of Vietnamese court music
adopted into the rituals of the Vietnamese
royal court, from the 13th-century Tran
dynasty to the 20th-century Nguyen
dynasty.
To celebrate the arrival of spring, its Bac

Ninh Province tradition to perform quan
ho a type of folk music where groups
of female and male
singers alternate musical
challenges and responses,
often focusing on young
love and emotions. First
recorded in the 13th century, UNESCO
designated the art as an Intangible Cultural
Heritage in 2009.
Known today to the

casual observer as the
accompaniment to water
puppet performances,
cheo is a form of musical
theatre that originated
in northern Vietnam in
the 12th century.
First appearing in the 14th century on

one and two-chord instruments, xam was
performed by blind artists who wandered
from town to town, following the rhythms
of other folk music like trong quan and quan
ho. When trams came to Hanoi in the early
20th century, xam players took to them and
became known as xam tau dien tram xam.
But when trams
disappeared in the
1980s, xam music
mostly disappeared
as well.
Coming after the founding of the Hanoi

Conservatory of Music in 1956, nhac dan toc
cai bien attempted to synthesise traditional
music with western elements of harmony
and instrumentation.
Taking form in the 16th century, this art of sung

supplication literature spread quickly to the tune of the
moon-shaped lute. Famous for its use in deity mediumship,
chau van serves two purposes: first hypnotising the medium
for maximal receptiveness, then accompanying his actions
with a variety of instruments, rhythms, pauses and tempos.
Descending from central Vietnamese classical

theatre hat boi this renovated theatre
blends folk songs, classical music and
modern spoken drama. To the tune of the dan
tranh zither, it thrilled middle-class audiences
from the 1930s to 1980s before falling into
decline.
Dating to the Later Ly dynasty in the 11th century, ca tru

is a female-sung chamber music comparable to geisha
culture, combining the entertainment of wealthy people
with the performance of religious songs. UNESCO
declared ca tru to be an Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2009.
In bands of four to six drummers,

monochordists and fiddlers, Vietnamese
funeral players ring out atonal music that
can go on for days.
The latest Vietnamese
musical form to earn
UNESCO recognition, don
ca tai tu amateur singing
first appeared in the 19th
century as a genre of folk
music without many rules,
but with a uniquely southern
feel.
Illustration by Claire Driscoll
The Evolution
of V-Pop
Vietnamese pop is a recent phenomenon, yet its roots stretch back to the French era,
when French lyrics were first translated into Vietnamese. Words by Hoa Le
Dark skin, I live in desire
Dark skin, I live in a dream yeah yeah
Dark skin brings me the desire
Dark skin brings me the dream
n 2010 when singer, model and actress

Phi Thanh Van released her song Da Nau
(Dark Skin), it created a phenomenon.
The track only has four sentences,
which are repeated to a fast beat over a
background of techno music. The singer,
known as the queen of plastic surgery,
brought out a video to match with a
hot dance routine played out by a troupe
of dancers while Thanh Van sang on stage.
Receiving an unprecedented level of
criticism, many considered Da Nau to be a
V-pop disaster. And yet the song was a
success where it counted, getting millions
of Youtube hits.
Da Nau is often cited as an example of
the poverty of V-pop. While some criticise
the poor taste of both the singer and the
audience something they blame on the
fast development of Vietnams marketoriented society others take a different
line. What its critics forget is that, until 25
years ago, there was no such thing as pop
music in Vietnam.
Origins
Apart from music played on traditional

instruments, music for Vietnams youth
pop music first appeared during
the French era in the late 19th and early
20th centuries. According to Jason
Gibbs, a San Francisco-based researcher
of Vietnamese music and the writer
of a Vietnamese-language blog about

Vietnamese pop, 1930s French artists such
as Tino Rossi had a big influence on the
Vietnamese music scene. Soon their songs
were being translated into Vietnamese.
Post 1954, a similar trend took place in
the north, with Russian songs the source
material.
People often think that pop songs
that have lyrics translated from a foreign
language is only happening right now,
says Gibbs. But it was actually a long time
ago that people first put Vietnamese words
to French songs and sang them.
The division of Vietnam into two
countries also had an effect on pops
development. In the north, romantic music
from the French period was banned and
replaced by propaganda music, which
encouraged patriotism.
In the south, two types of music were
prevalent. The first was created by highclass artists, who studied in private
schools and came from a background of
privilege. They played to audiences who
appreciated French music. The other was
more for the common, everyday people,
who worked in bars or with the American
military. They started listening to the
US rock n roll of Cliff Richard and Elvis
Presley. In the countryside, ballads, bolero
and romantic songs became prevalent.
When Vietnam was unified in 1975,
bolero music was banned due to its sad
and discouraging lyrics. It was replaced by
the patriotic music of the north, which was
supposed to encourage the building of a
socialist society.
For another decade, there was little else.

But with Doi Moi in the mid-1980s, there
was a gradual revival of the Vietnamese
ballad and of the music of the past. Pop as
we know it today came soon after.
The First Diva
Pop music only really appears in Vietnam

with the arrival of singer Hong Nhung in
the early 1990s, says Gibbs. Born in Hanoi
in 1970, Hong Nhung learned singing at the
Youth Cultural House starting when she
was 10 years old. Gifted with a beautiful
voice, talent and skill, she won first prize
in the Hanoi Singing Contest in 1987, just as
the country started to open up. She later
became one of the most famous singers in
Vietnam and is often called one of the four
divas of Vietnamese pop.
Another important singer in V-pops
formative years was Dan Truong, who was
never formally trained. Popular in the late
1990s and early 2000s, his stage presence,
appearance and dance skills made him an
idol for many young people of the time.
His vocals werent particularly strong,
Gibbs says, but with pop music, thats not
always necessary.
Dan Truong influenced many later pop
celebrities, including My Tam and Ho Ngoc
Ha. Its not that they are not talented,
adds Gibbs. They have instead been
trained by the market rather than a music
school.
The Trouble with V-Pop
Vietnamese pop music is now more like

teen music, says 44-year-old musician Vu
v
POP
Nhat Tan. Growing up in the 1970s, Tan

developed his career first in pop but later
switched to experimental electronic music.
The first time he heard the term teen
was during a 2001 visit to America.
Teen music has since become popular in
Vietnam, with cute, young, boy-next-door
male singers and attractive-yet-innocent,
hard-to-get yet slightly demure girls.
Almost every song coming out of this genre
is about love, love and only love.
In my 20s, I wrote a lot of songs, says
Tan. They are considered pop, too, but at
the time we didnt use that term, instead
calling it youth music (nhac tre).
Tan is not alone in describing the V-pop
of that time as more sincere. As with
many other composers at the time, I also
wrote love songs, but primarily for myself,
to express my emotions. Current pop songs
are not like that.

V-pop now draws its inspiration from
Korean pop (K-pop), Chinese pop (C-pop)
and sometimes Japanese pop (J-pop). The
singers and even the composers imitate
[foreign bands], but theyre still awkward,
Tan says. They dont have their own style
from their outfits and appearance down
to the lyrics and the music. He believes it
will take time for the younger generation to
learn and be able to create their own style
of music.
Gibbs agrees, to a certain point. Many
people criticise the singers and even the
audience, but I often feel bad for [the
audience]. Its not their fault its their
need for that kind of music.
Its the same with the artists. They just
dont have a wide, in-depth knowledge
of music. Its very limited. So I think the
problem lies in the education.

Gibbs isnt optimistic. Its sad but
at the moment I dont see any change in
education. With no change, theres little
hope for V-pop.
Part of this education, Gibbs feels, is
having better critics, who know their
pop music and criticise V-pop in a fair
manner. Rather than looking down
on V-pop, their aim should be to make it
better, to be constructive.
Which brings us back to Phi Thanh Van
and the uproar created by Da Nau. Without
a general background in popular music,
and without exposure to a wide range of
musical styles and tastes, it is inevitable
that the lowest common denominator will
sometimes triumph. Its not just in Vietnam
that these kind of things happen, but all
over the world.
Photo by Nguyen An / TNH
Rocking in the
Free World
On the eve of ASEAN economic integration, a rock festival demos one of the perks
of coming together more rock n roll. If an embassy and a music promoter can
overcome their differences, why cant everybody? Words by Aimee Millwood
and Ed Weinberg. Photo provided by CAMA
fter the success of last years

Artwork is Work festival, the
American Embassy and CAMA
are returning with another
concert for a cause. In 2013, the first
ASEAN Fest brought over 2,000 people
to a diverse, daylong event that featured
artists from around the ASEAN bloc,
there to raise awareness about intellectual
property rights. The team was inspired
to make ASEAN Fest an annual event
after they saw Hanois response, and this
year theyre doubling down with ASEAN
PRIDE > Celebrating Diversity.
Another thing happened last year apart
from all the rocking the collaboration
between a country with a lot of money and
a promoter with a lot of knowhow. It wasnt
the first collaboration of this sort within
Hanois culturally well-endowed landscape,
but it was certainly the biggest. As the
American Embassys Michael Turner puts it,
These types of partnerships are essential to
building people-to-people ties, especially as
the US and Vietnam move towards the 20th
anniversary of the normalisation of relations
in 2015.
Culture vultures in the capital have
long enjoyed a diverse selection of events
at venues such as the French Embassy
cultural hub LEspace, the Germanrun Goethe Institut and The Japan
Foundation, as well as at the many Sohoesque bistros and cafs that dot the city.
One type serves as a portal through which
international luminaries regularly shuffled
their sponsoring governments picking
up the tab the other provides space for
Hanois active artistic community. They
stayed relatively separate for a long time.
And then a strange thing happened the
two sides realised they werent so different
after all.
Down in Ho Chi Minh City, promoters
have started doing what CAMAs been
doing for years bringing in international
non-DJ acts, and making it work. As one of
the men leading the charge down in Ho Chi
Minh City, Loud Minoritys Damian Kilroy
says, A lot more are opening up to it and
understanding they cant get big fees here
yet, but they can enter a new market.
Over on embassy row, theyve begun to
realise the value of exploring more than their
home cultures. And, as more international
bands are making the trip over on their own,
these embassies have started to sink their
considerable resources into a community
that is more cohesive than ever.
As CAMAs Giles Cooper says, Expats
and [Vietnamese] care about so many of
the same issues, so we want to create a

conducive place for everyone to meet up and
have fun.
The issue at hand this year is awareness
of ethnic, sexual and gender discrimination,
issues that are important to a great many
expats, Vietnamese and other ASEAN
nationals the festival is hoping to draw. The
pride-filled festival celebrates diversity in all
forms, from LGBT rights to supporting the
cultural vibrancy across ASEAN countries.
As the press release puts it, these rights are
an affirmation of fundamental freedoms
people taking pride in who they are, no

matter their sexual orientation or gender
identity.
Now that everyones on the same page,
the future may hold more of these publicprivate partnerships. Michael says, We
hope this years ASEAN Fest will be as
successful as last years, and that we can
make this an annual highlight in the cultural
and musical happenings in Hanoi.
We hope so, too. Good music for a good
cause certainly gives us a reason to dance
with pride.
Whos playing?
R e -C ycle
Vietnam
A rock/alt-metal foursome, Hanoi's own ReCycle have been playing CAMA Festivals
and Rockstorms since they formed in 2007.
This time the merchandise table might be a bit
more crowded they released their album
Binh Minh last year.
H igh -H eeled D ance T roupe
Vietnam
Five dudes, 10 high-heel shoes. As they
vanquish good excuses for ladies not wanting
to dance, these veterans of Got to Dance
Vietnam 2013 will exhibit some of the creative
diversity ASEAN PRIDE hopes to pull to the
forefront.
P rotocol A fro
Indonesia
Protocol Afro is coming to represent
Indonesia with two guitars, bass, synths,
drums and vocals and trust us, with all
this noise, youre bound to get funky.
S tylish N onsense
Thailand
Straight out of Bangkok, Stylish Nonsense
returns for a second year with a medley
of post-punk and electric-funk. This duo
met over 20 years ago at a music club in
university, and have been serving up hefty
tunes in a small package ever since.
DCNXTR
Vietnam
Starting off as street buskers, Tank 27 rose to
blues-tinged acclaim after taking first place
in a Hanoi street art competition. When this
six-piece takes to the streets at ASEAN PRIDE,
people will listen.
Thailand
Created by two former members of
the electronic rock band Revenge of
the Cybermen, DCNXTR plays upbeat
synthesiser-heavy electro-pop. Come
equipped with glow sticks and memories of
psychedelic laser light shows when DCNXTR
takes the stage.
B ig B ag
N ok L a F iesta
T ank 27
Myanmar
Last year, indie rockers Big Bag aka
Bloodsugar Politik made their international
debut at the festival liking Vietnam so much
they even passed down south to Ho Chi
Minh Citys C argo B ar . This year theyre
back, taking their signature explosive stage
presence with them.
T he P inholes
Singapore
Psychedelic pop? In Singapore? Thats right.
The Pinholes have made a splash on the
Singapore music scene for their retro tunes
that blend everything from funk to surf. Keep
an eye out for the Beatles-esque group and
put some flowers in your hair as the quartet
swirls you back in time.
Thailand
Nok La Fiesta will knock your head around
with an infectious mix of upbeat Spanish
guitar, reggae, blues and rumba. Nok La
Fiestas crooning vocals and feel-good
music is perfect for a springtime day in
Hanoi.
ASEAN PRIDE > Celebrating Diversity
comes to The American Club, (21 Hai Ba
Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi) on May 24,
going from 1pm to midnight. Tickets
purchased in advance from Cama ATK
(73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi)
or ticketbox.vn cost VND320,000
VND400,000 on the door. Free entrance
for ASEAN nationals with ID. For more
information, visit cama-atk.com
The minor
leagues
How five English teachers playing guitar have had an effect on Hanois music scene.
Words by Elisabeth Rosen. Photo by Andy Crompton
ednesday is Open Mic night

at Hanoi Rock City. Starting
around 9pm, expats and
Vietnamese trickle into the
club on To Ngoc Van, carrying guitars
and ukuleles and sipping VND30,000 La
Rues. Performers sign up on a whiteboard
propped against the legs of a stool. By rule,
they play three songs each, although as
the night loosens its inhibitions, this rule
is occasionally left unenforced. Sometimes
there will be magicians, too, or slam poets,
or musicians with improvised instruments:
loop stations, motorbike helmets that they
beat with drumsticks. But overall the event
feels surprisingly professional, more like a
concert than a jam session.
A year ago, Hanoi didnt have much in
terms of live music, says Tim Coker, who
started the event last spring. Open Mic has
really helped bring artists together. A lot of
bands have come out of it.
Getting the
Party Started
At the beginning it was just me and four

friends playing music, he adds. Then it
slowly grew to people like Ella.
Hes referring to Ella Walls, his co-host,
who started coming to Open Mic in June and
quickly became a regular performer, belting
out everything from pop songs to classics.
(Listen to her rendition of Halo and watch
how quickly the audience goes quiet.) When
Tim returned to his native Canada for a
time, she took the reins. After he came back,
they decided to run it together. Theres less
pressure with two people, Ella says.
In three years teaching in Asia, Tim has
performed at open mics in South Korea and

Malaysia, but this is the first time hes run
one. The event has a homegrown vibe that
endears it to regulars. Its become a weekly
hangout, both for musicians and those who
prefer to remain on the sidelines.
Back home I would go see live shows
all the time. This helps fill that void, says
Jaclyn Armstrong, who has been in the
audience almost every week since February.
Asked if shes ever going to perform, she
shakes her head vehemently: My sense
of rhythm is so bad I can hardly find my
heartbeat!
In traditional open mic spirit, Tim
and Ella say the event is for anyone, a
sentiment echoed by the performers.
It really doesnt matter to what level
youve developed your skill, just as long
as youre able to carry a tune and have the
balls to get up and sing, says regular John
Pratt, who plays what he describes as older
rock with a country twist.
Sure, there are a lot of English teachers
in the crowd, but youll also spot locals
like Dinh Cong Phung, who made his Open
Mic debut last month. (His song of choice:
Young and Beautiful by Lana Del Rey.)
Going up to the stage, he looks hesitant,
but returns pleased with the compliments
he receives.
Ill definitely sing again, Phung says.
He thinks for a minute, then adds: When
Im well prepared. People think Im good
now. I dont want to let them down.
Dont let the casual vibe fool you: most
performers can do more than just carry a
tune.
The quality seems a fair bit higher than
most open mic nights, says Jeremy Gilbert,

a member of Say Oms who plays Open Mic
with his side project Mecha Sasquatch.
People tend to put a lot of effort into their
performances. Youll often get groups that
have clearly practised a lot.
This effect is amplified by what Tim calls
the pro setup. Musicians get the chance
to perform on a real stage, equipped with
lighting and instruments. Drums and bass
are provided (although you have to bring
your own ukulele). This encourages many
bands to develop ambitious original content.
Its not just English teachers coming up
on stage and playing covers, Ella says.
Changing the Game
Regulars credit Open Mic with expanding

the capitals live music scene.
Its brought out all the talent thats been
lying dormant, says Daniel Williamson,
who performs with his band One of Us
is Drunk. Its a hub for musicians to
connect.
One of Us is Drunk proves that point. The
band formed thanks to Open Mic, although
the name came later, when the members
were chatting late at night (I think we
were linking cat stickers to each other) and
Daniel made a statistical observation: One
of us is probably drunk right now. Since
then, theyve performed at Hanoi Rock City
and Madake, though youll still find them
on stage nearly every Wednesday.
Open Mic gives people a platform to
jam. Many bands were created after those
jam sessions, says the bands guitarist DA
Vo, also an owner of Hanoi Rock City. Its
definitely enriched the music scene.
Open Mic gives people a platform to jam. Many bands were created
after those jam sessions. Its definitely enriched the music scene
Home Grown
A new generation of music recording hubs is taking
over in Vietnam. Karen Hewell steps inside two of them
to see how Vietnams new professional recording studios
are changing the face of the countrys music industry.
Photos by Kyle Phanroy
or many music purists in the West,

the year 2000 was the end of an
era. Between the turn of the new
millennium and 2010, dozens of the
most influential live recording studios shut
their doors permanently in response to the
new dawn of home recording.
West Londons Olympic Studios, New
York Citys Hit Factory, and Los Angeles
Sound City studios that recorded
the likes of the Rolling Stones, Bruce
Springsteen and Elton John, respectively
were all victims of the changing tides
in music recording. As the narrative goes,
their demise marked the end of professional
live recording and the rise of digital
recording on a smaller scale.
For some, it was the long overdue fall
of the music industry oligarchy, and the
forging of a new path for independent
artists to record and disseminate their
own music. For others, the change was
synonymous with the takeover of laptop
musicians whose live performances paled
in comparison to their digitally enhanced
EPs.
But for Vietnam an emerging country
whose music scene had never boasted major
live recording spaces the introduction of
digital home recording technology wasnt
the end of an era. It was the beginning of
one.
Vietnam Emerges
Alongside the emergence of DIY workarounds in the face of professional

shortage thanks, in part, to the power
of the YouTube tutorial the capacity for
high-quality sound recording in Vietnam
began falling into the hands of amateurs.
Armed with a laptop, ProTools recording
software and a microphone, locals took on
the dual role of musician and recording
professional, and finally had the means to
record independent, original music outside

of the mainstream.
Vietnams shortage of professional
recording studios with the capacity to
record quality music was no longer
a barrier. Before long, independent
Vietnamese musicians could capture
audiences via their SoundCloud and
internet connection. And, as more and
more basement musicians honed their
skills to reach near-professional standards,
Vietnams own brand of professional
studios emerged, built into the dense urban
landscape in which they were born.
Home is Where
the Sound Is
Constricted by compact, labyrinthine

alleyways and narrow architecture, many of
Vietnams professional studios took shape
in re-purposed houses and apartments,
flanked by family homes in quiet suburban
neighbourhoods. Many are constructed
in whatever space is available, with their
technicians sleeping only a few metres
away from their soundproof walls.
Unlike their western cousins, these
studios arent built into rock mansions
in swanky corners of Los Angeles, but
instead in converted offices and bedrooms.
Equipped with the same recording
technology as their western counterparts
but with a fraction of the space, Vietnamese
recording studios are distinct. Most are
constructed harmoniously with the urban
landscape, beacons of Vietnams culture
of resourcefulness and resiliency. All have
emerged within the last decade.
From the outside, these homegrown
sound studios are virtually undetectable,
but from within they are helping to
transform local music culture, fostering a
new generation of local talent, one song at
a time.
Saigon audio recording arts

District 7, Ho Chi Minh City
Opened by husband and wife team Robert

Varro and Cathy Anh Nghiem, SARAs
recording space was originally an office.
The pair chose the District 7 apartment
specifically for the spacious room, already
scouting for living spaces that would
accommodate a recording studio. Open
since May 2013, SARA Sound specialises in
sound mixing, voiceover work, digital music
creation and live music recording.
Software: Equipped with the sound software
trifecta: Pro Tools 10, Apple Logic Pro 9 and
Sony Soundforge Pro
Hardware: Both digital and analogue

recording hardware, including TASCAM,
Zendrum, Novation and Zendrum
Expertise: Owner and technician Robert
trained at both Berklee College of Music and
at the school of hard knocks, as a country
and rock musician
Recorded Artists: Over their year in
business, SARA has recorded original music
by expat band The Lost Art, Russian metal
band Locked and Loaded and Cuban band
Corazon Latino
HD Studio
Binh Thanh, Ho Chi Minh City

In operation for nearly six years, HD
Studio was opened by Tran Quang
Huyen and Nguyen Hoang Dung, both
accomplished musicians and singers. The
two-storey home in which HD Studio
is housed was originally a living space
owned by Huyen. The two converted
the space first into a single downstairs
studio, and eventually into two separate
recording spaces on each of the floors.
Alongside their work on digital sound
mixing for film and commercials, HD
Studio provides expert sound recording
and mastering for singers and musicians
in Saigon.
Software: Mixing, mastering and editing

with ProTools LE 8.0.4
Hardware: A digital and analogue recording
combination of Digidesign 002 technology
Expertise: Huyens expertise is best
illustrated with his collection of instruments
a violin, upright piano and oboe, to name
a few. He can play nearly all of them
Recorded Artists: HD Studios lineup of
musicians include singer-songwriters Xuan
Bach, Thu Ha Uyen and expat band Ginger
Thi, fronted by Maeve Meleady
insider
Photography & Video
Saigon from Above

Imagine this city from a different perspective. Over the next few pages we showcase
some of the images shot by Jan-Mathieu Donnier, showing us Saigon from above
rom ground level we get one main

perspective on whats around us
that which is straight ahead, to
the side or behind, all on the same
plane. Yet ascend a few flights of stairs
or take a lift up to the 50th floor, and our
perspectives change. Below us stretches
out a landscape that on the street we
can only imagine. People become the
size of pins, cars form into beetles and
motorbikes start behaving like ants in
a colony, zooming from one point to
another, with little in-between.
It was with different perspectives in mind
that we decided to work with Jan-Matthieu
from GlobalVision. A Swiss citizen, born
and raised in Geneva, his company focuses

on high-technology imaging systems to
promote brands, products and facilities.
Using drone helicopters fitted with a Sony
NEX7 camera replete with a 16mm, 2.8 lens,
Jan films land and cityscapes from above.
The images he captures are sharp, steady
and, thanks to cinematic-style stabilisation,
very smooth. They show us the world from a
different angle.
Saigon is a very dense and rather flat
city, explains Jan. Except from standing
in a building, there is no natural way to
look at the city from above. So the vision is
always limited to a street corner. Shooting
aerial images allow us to take a birds-eye
perspective of our subjects. It frees the

viewer from all gravity constraints and offers
sizzling views. It offers a new dimension.
Aerial photography also allows Jan to
document the changes in Saigon, the rise
of new high-rises, the construction of new
suburbs, the destruction of areas that were
once green and are now a mass of concrete
or rubble.
Over the past four years I have witnessed
a complete change to the citys skyline, he
says. I want to record images that will form
part of this countrys visual history. A few
years from now, you will be able to look at
our aerial images as a record, a memory
the Saigon of the past.
Online Video
GlobalVision has created a short,
one-minute video, Saigon from Above,
that will be posted on the Word website
wordvietnam.com in early May.
Capturing a city that is constantly on
the move, from dense and quite-insane
roundabouts to quiet countryside
districts, the video gives insight into the
diverse nature of this city.
For more information on GlobalVision's
flycam and Jan, go to globalvision.ch or
facebook.com/asiaflycam
Arts
Classic
The Academy
Western-style classical music is growing in popularity. Kim Megson heads
to the Vietnam National Academy Music to meet the countrys existing
and future stars. Photos by Nick Ross
n a Hanoi cafe much like any other,

young Vietnamese friends hunch over
their iPads immersed in colourful
games of Bejewelled and Veggie Samurai.
Their urgent tapping is only interrupted
when they take occasional sips of bitter,
green iced tea. Faded posters on the
peeling walls implore them to try a
Coca-Cola and advertise second-hand
motorbikes for sale. Two fashionably
dressed teenagers are sat quietly in the
corner, eyes wide and intently focused on
their screens. His game over, one looks up.
What do you think I should play at my
friends wedding? Brahms or Schubert?
Inside this cafe, which serves the students
and teachers of Vietnams National Academy
of Music, this is a typical exchange. Even
in the short, snatched breaks of free time
between rehearsals, conversations rarely
stray far from tricky symphonic movements,
favourite sonatas and the challenge of
holding high notes. These young customers
have music on the mind.

Once predominantly the province of the
wealthy and well-connected in Vietnam,
western classical music has enjoyed a
crescendo of popularity in the countrys
major cities over the last decade. These
days, the Hanoi Opera House regularly sells
out shows to spectators immersed in Bach
and Beethoven, the number of new private
music schools is climbing and the Vietnam
National Symphonic Orchestra based at
the Academy has crafted an impeccable
international reputation. Even TV talent
shows are spotlighting Vietnams classical
stars of the future.
From Out of Conflict

Despite the recent upturn, classical music in
Vietnam has its roots as far back as French
rule in the 19th century. Later, Ho Chi Minh
himself, perhaps inspired from his years
working in Europe, was instrumental in the
founding of the Academy (then known as
the Vietnam School of Music) in 1956. The

school took on students even throughout
the war with America, with young
musicians evacuating Hanoi and practising
underground in the capitals rural outskirts
while B-52 bombers swarmed menacingly
overhead.
Although its beginnings are found
in times of conflict, the accession of
classical music here has come at a time of
unprecedented global integration. Bui Cong
Duy, a violin professor at the academy and
perhaps Vietnams most famous classical
star, has toured the world and played for
global leaders including Vladimir Putin and
Italian president Giorgio Napolitano. Like
fellow classical star Dang Thai Son, Duy
studied in Russia, which has been a strong
supporter of Vietnamese musicians. He
argues that Vietnam opening its doors to the
world in the last two decades has allowed
culture in the country to develop at an
increasing pace.
Once predominantly the province of the wealthy and well-connected in

Vietnam, western classical music has enjoyed a crescendo of popularity
in the countrys major cities over the last decade
Bui Cong Duy

People want to learn to play western
classical music now because it is universally
popular and widens their social circles, he
explains. It is similar to their desire to learn
English; they wish to connect with more
people from outside of Vietnam.
To achieve this, students are mastering
a musical form that couldnt be further
removed from traditional Vietnamese genres
in rhythm, pitch and tone. Both styles are
studied at the Academy, but when the
sounds of pianos and piccolos echo out of
the ageing rehearsal rooms and blend with
notes from traditional Vietnamese dan bau
and dan ty bas, the result is a headacheinducing discord.
Vietnamese music is inside me because
every day when were young, we learn it at
school, says Duy. But the difference with
western music cant be measured and its
impossible to choose to learn both. For me,
classical music was a different but more
interesting path.
Life for a classical musician in Vietnam

certainly isnt easy, however. The humidity
makes instrument maintenance extremely
difficult, quiet places to practise are nearly
impossible to find and there are very few
music shops selling sheet music. Meanwhile,
to travel to the Academy, students must
negotiate their way through busy Dong Da
District. Large instrument cases balance
precariously on the back of their motorbikes
as they edge past the unfinished, graffitistrewn sky train line, avoiding piles of
rubble and stagnant, mosquito-swarmed
puddles and holding their breath to keep out
air thick with the fumes of ceaseless traffic.
Visiting international teachers are surprised
to find that this corner of the capital is the
home of Vietnamese classical music.
Stars of the Future

A cellist, a pianist and a violinist walk into
a restaurant. But they have come to talk
progress, not punchlines. They are Triofugu,
an LA-based trio who travel around the

world for an educational project named
Chamber Music Side by Side, teaching,
rehearsing and performing with students
and improving the capacity of local music
teachers. They visited Hanoi briefly in 2008
and 2010 to work at the Academy, and an
invitation to return last month for a followup visit was music to their ears.
Ming Tsu, the groups pianist, is full of
praise for the Vietnamese students she has
worked with. They have improved so
much. Not just with their technique, but
their personalities as well. They are more
open on stage and you can tell that they are
so into music. Thats great to see. Violinist
Lorenz Gamma agrees: We have come here
twice before, so we know these musicians
well. Personally, I have to say I have been
surprised by the increase in the level and
it was already good before.
Triofugu ended their trip by joining a
selection of students playing on a small
stage in the Academys crumbling concert
hall. Among the squeaking of ancient
chairs, wailing of babies and snapping
of blurry photos destined for Instagram,
the performers maintained heroic levels
of concentration, offering note-perfect
renditions of Mozart and Dvorak.
From the stands, teachers shook hands
with beaming parents, the proudest
audience members of all.
Parents are the reason most of our
students started learning, says Duy, who
was himself taught from the age of four by
his father, the celebrated violinist Professor
Dr. Bui Cong Thanh. Their encouragement
helps their children to build a foundation of
knowledge from an early age, which is really
important. Musicians across the world will
testify to the importance of having nagging
parents, for eventually the result is a passion
and skill for playing.
In Vietnam, where music is not yet a stable
career choice, such passion is invaluable.
Nguyen Trong Binh, a violinist for the
Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra and
one of Duys colleagues at the Academy,
is quick to warn his students about the
shortage of money-making opportunities.
They say that musicians are destined to
give more than they receive. We work very
hard, but even if we play at the Opera House
we get almost nothing. You have to be really
driven, because it is very hard to build a
career here.
Vietnams talented musicians are hoping
that this will one day change, with the
government continuing to throw its support
behind classical music. A brand-new concert
hall will be opened this year at the Academy,
more exchanges with groups like Triofugu
will be funded, and Duy is planning to
create a teaching programme for state
schools.
Meanwhile, the next icon of Vietnamese
classical music may well be sat among the
tea drinkers in the Academys cafe, eyes
fixed on their handheld device but their
head full of the glorious sound of music.
Students are mastering a

musical form that couldnt be
further removed from traditional
Vietnamese genres in rhythm,
pitch and tone. Both styles are
studied at the Academy, but
when the sounds of pianos and
piccolos echo out of the ageing
rehearsal rooms and blend with
notes from traditional Vietnamese
[instruments], the result is a
headache-inducing discord
LEISURE
Consume
The Antique Market
Hidden away down a nondescript alleyway lies a more unusual addition to Hanois
shopping scene. Hai Vu heads out to the antique market. Photos by David Harris
he fog was exceptionally dense

and the air unreasonably chilly by
Hanoi standards when I arrived
at Alley 456 on Hoang Hoa Tham
early one Saturday. A steaming hot
beverage from the Lu Tra Quan tea shop
situated besides the alleyway would have
done wonders to warm and soothe my
frigid bones, but tea was not the reason
I had ventured this far into the Ba Dinh
District. Instead, my destination was what
lay in the dark void adjacent to the tea
shop.
For several months, I had heard rumblings
about an antique market located at the
base of the aging steps that led down to a
laneway behind the shop. Even now, while
descending what could most accurately be
described as a hybrid between a stairwell
and a motorbike ramp, I was unsure whether
the market actually existed or was just a
figment of someones vivid imagination.
Other than through word of mouth, I could
not find any evidence of its existence. So
you can imagine my surprise when the
grey mist lifted to reveal a hundred or so
patrons perusing merchandise on tables that
overflowed into the cramped space of that
unmarked alley.
As I strolled through the archway into
the marketplace, the constant cacophony
of motorbikes faded away among the high
walls of the surrounding buildings. Standing
amid the ancient wares and sheltered from
the familiar noises of the city, I felt the
sensation of having been transported to a

much simpler time from the distant past.
Hanois weekend antique market does exist
and despite its hidden location and lack
of promotion it appears to be thriving.
Timepieces and Smartphones

Since its launch in June 2013, Hanois antique
market has remained largely unadvertised.
Open only on Saturday mornings until 2pm,
this place is an embarrassment of riches for
history buffs, collectors of Asian artefacts
and for elders looking to reclaim a piece of
their long-forgotten childhood. The stalls
are littered with merchandise, including a
mixed collection of vintage watches, clocks
(both broken and in working order), Zippo
lighters, oil lamps, old coins and banknotes
in various currencies, silver and porcelain
bowls and vases, rusted musical instruments
and a massive assortment of wartime
memorabilia.
Shoppers will find no rhyme or reason to
the random wares strewn across the markets
20-or-so booths. Some of the goods seem
oddly suspect to even be called antiques.
Do Blackberry smartphones qualify? Some
might argue yes, but if you dont mind
toting around an antique smartphone,
you might be interested to know that they
can be found here on display besides other
dusty relics. Those looking for a prestige
purchase should be warned that some of the
designer watches sold here as in most of
Vietnam are fakes. Use discretion before
purchasing a Rolex or an Omega. If the deal

is too good to be true, then chances are it is.
While rummaging through the clutter,
my eyes did, however, notice a vintage
Seiko 6105-8119 timepiece. This instrument
a sturdy Japanese automatic divers
watch was used by many American
drop troops during the war. Due to its
nearly indestructible casing, a number of
these pieces managed to survive the harsh
conditions of the war era.
Seiko leveraged this bit of free publicity
to help turn their company into a household
name. The watch was also popularised by
As with many of the booths at the antique

market, the prices were fixed. Perhaps sellers
are hesitant to part with their beloved family
heirlooms, or perhaps they are just headstrong
enough to expect the best possible prices
for their commodities
Ill sell it mentality. Beautiful hand-painted

vases and elegantly-carved woodworkings
are prominently displayed with the same
gusto as shoddy transistor radios, a Keep on
Truckin belt buckle and a pile of old mobile
phone batteries. But as the saying goes, One
mans junk is another mans treasure.
Shuffling through the crowd, I stumbled
upon a table selling a myriad of Vietnam
wartime weaponry. Seeing my interest, one
of the vendors was quick to speak. Many
of these objects have seen action, he said
matter-of-factly.
The table was strewn with bullets,
canteens, compasses, knives, land mines
and grenades (which I hoped were defused)
ammunition that was too big to fit on
the table had been propped up on the floor
below. Most of his rusted stockpile had seen
better days, but the seller assured me that
what the items lacked in condition, they
made up for in history.
So how does one acquire such goods? I
asked. We go digging for them in Quang Tri
Province, he said with a chuckle and a look
of amusement on his face. The fact that over
50 people a year still die in Quang Tri due
to UXO explosions seemed to have passed
him by.
Into the Bargain
Martin Sheens character Captain Benjamin

Willard, who wore one in Francis Ford
Coppolas epic war masterpiece Apocalypse
Now. Despite showing obvious signs of
wear, this particular watch was still in
working condition and, upon inspection, I
determined it to be in impressive shape for
its age, which was roughly 30 or 40 years.
I got to talking about timepieces with the
booths owner Tuan.
My father used to collect watches, he
says proudly. Many of these watches were
gifts given to upper-class families, but have
now been sold. Pointing to a large selection
of Russian Cold War-era Poljot and Slava

watches, he adds: Russian watches were
very popular as gifts in the 1970s and 1980s.
Digging for Gold

Although I was tempted to make a purchase,
I wanted to see what the other vendors were
offering before I committed. I was certain
there were many hidden gems still to be
found. I just needed to do some digging.
Among many gorgeous relics from bygone
eras of Vietnamese culture, shoppers will
also find a fair amount of junk. Some booths
truly do have an if someone might buy it,
I returned to Tuans booth to procure the

Seiko watch. When he told me the steep
price, I knew I would have to negotiate.
I started the bargaining, but that process
ended rather abruptly. Tuan would not
budge. As with many of the booths at the
antique market, the prices were fixed.
Perhaps sellers are hesitant to part with their
beloved family heirlooms, or perhaps they
are just headstrong enough to expect the
best possible prices for their commodities.
Either way, after we failed to agree on a
price for the Seiko, I left the market with a
moderately-priced Soviet-era Poljot Deluxe
wristwatch instead.
A unique souvenir, this 40-year-old
timepiece has history, having lived through
the Cold War. I was happy to know that
every time I see it, I will have memories of
where and when it was purchased. Whether
or not you choose to buy anything here, the
antique market is a welcome addition to the
usual list of things-to-do Hanoi has to offer.
Although the market is still in its infancy,
Tuan assures me that traffic has already
grown considerably.
I am seeing more people come here every
week, he says. When it started, the market
only opened every other week. Now you
can see that its much busier, so we open
weekly... I even see some foreigners come.
Some advertising would help to get the
word out quicker. But, as they say about
the Vietnam, pleasure is derived from the
unveiling of its hidden charms. Hanois
antique market plays perfectly into that
notion. It lies nestled in the confines of an
unassuming alleyway, awaiting discovery.
And the shopkeepers here dont seem to
want it any other way.
Business
Business
Working as a
Co-Worker
As more employees in Vietnam loosen their shirt collars and digital nomads take to the
countrys Wi-Fi hotspots, a solution to all that freedom has popped in the form of
collaborative, co-working spaces. Words by Aimee Millwood. Photos by David Harris
orking as a freelancer has taken

me places, though more often
than not, Im racing against
deadlines in cramped hotel
rooms or searching for Wi-Fi in airport coffee
shops not exactly the casual beachside
life I imagined when I first thought about
freelancing globally. While locationindependent work has given me liberation
from the cubicle, finding a place where I can
work efficiently is often a job in itself. The
background chatter and kitchen clatter of
cafs distracts, and working from home is a
magnet for procrastination. A few years ago I
stumbled on a way that works better for me
co-working.
A Day in the Co-Working Life

10.45am: I wake up to 45 new emails. I
know if I stay at the house, Ill probably end

up deep cleaning my bedroom and tinkering
around with unnecessary chores instead of
facing my mounting assignments, so I decide
to head to one of my favorite co-working
spaces.
11.20am: I park at a nondescript building
next to The Kitchen. The first time I visited

ClickSpace Westlake Saigonites, if
youre looking for an analogue in size and

atmosphere, you neednt look further than
Saigon Coworking I was surprised
by what awaited me. At first, ClickSpace
appears to be a conventional office, with
black-and-white tiled floors, a bilingual
concierge and business services. But as one
walks in further, expansive desks, yoga ball,
funky artwork, blooming plants and wide
windows give a hint that something more
unique is afoot.
The morning crew is already deeply
absorbed in their work. I settle in to
my favourite chair a comfy beanbag
conveniently located by the all-you-can-drink
coffee station plug in my laptop and get
to work.
3pm:
Despite being moderately crowded

today, the space stays blessedly silent. I
barely realise that three hours have flown
by its time for a break. I head to the
rooftop terrace where others are enjoying the
sunshine while chatting and eating lunch.
After a cup of coffee, its time to get back to
work.
3.30pm: The high-speed wireless internet

lags for a moment, and someone turns
around to ask if anyone else is having

problems. A few people check their
connection and nod. Pham Anh Dzung, the
manager at ClickSpace, notices the buzz
of trouble and quickly gives everyone the
password for the backup server. The typing
resumes.
4pm: Sally Gardener returns from a phone

call in the lobby. At co-working spaces,
workers are generally conscientious of
disturbing others focus, and Sally is no
exception. A staple at ClickSpace, Sally has
used the space as her full-time office for more
than a year. While she has seen a variety of
people come through in her time there, she is
one of the solid group of regulars that have
formed a ClickSpace community.
4.45pm: My eyes begin to feel heavy and
my stomach begins to growl. I consider
walking across the street to grab food at
JOMA, but ClickSpace will be closing soon
and a change of scenery would do me good,
so I wave goodbye to the last ones in the
office and head to the hybrid co-working
caf, Commune (communehanoi.com).
6pm:
Like WORK Saigon, Commune
Where to Co-Work
Searching for a co-working space?
Go here if...
Hanoi
combines caf culture with co-working
spirit, providing a work-conducive
environment above the popular restaurant
and bar. The lakeside view and quiet indie
rock is a stark contrast to the brightly lit
office I just left, but I quickly settle in and
return to work.
7pm: Sunset falls and the faerie lights on

the outside patio turn on. Just as I look at all
the assignments left on my to-do list, Jaclyn
Armstrong, a Commune regular and founder
of The Hanoi Book Swap, waltzes in.
Time to stop working! she teases as
she orders me a beer. I happily give my
overheated laptop and mind a rest.
Friends with Benefits
The Hanoi Book Swap is a perfect example
of how co-working spaces stimulate peerto-peer collaboration without competition.
When Jaclyn asked one of Communes
owners, Jeremy Wellard, if she could use
the cafs space to host a book-swap club
and set up a free community lending
library, he quickly agreed and even offered

those who attended the meetings a free
beer for a book. Co-working spaces at
their best: idea born; plan implemented;
problem solved.
In many places Ive worked, friendships
develop because you are obligated to
spend time together. But in co-working
environments, friendships are fostered
because you want to be there, not because
you have to be.
At ClickSpace, when people feel like
working they come in, explains ClickSpace
founder Jason Lusk. When they dont, they
stay home.
The new wave of co-working spaces
catering to freelancers and digital nomads
meets the rising global need for those who
need a home away from working at home.
Reuters says that today almost 10 percent of
people work from home every day. As the
global freelancing population grows, diverse
spots are springing up around the world to
meet a variety of needs, and Vietnam is no
exception.
The background chatter and kitchen clatter

of cafs distracts, and working from home is a
magnet for procrastination
H ub .IT hubit.asia: Youre a startup
ready to take it to the next level in an

incubation programme that helps you take
your idea to the market.
5D esire 5desire.com: Youre a startup

looking to complement your workspace
with experienced consulting services.
W ork R oom F our workroomfour.
com: Youre a creative looking for a

contemporary space with private art
studios, rentable desks and various artsoriented classes.
Ho Chi Minh City

WORK S aigon worksaigon.com:
Youre a freelancer or digital nomad who

likes working poolside at a co-working
caf or upstairs on the for-rent desks of
an old French villa.
E gg A ccelerator eggagency.com:
Youre an entrepreneur seeking a space
that blends work with leisure in the form
of luxuries like a spa, pool and gym to
clear your mind between brainstorming
sessions.
S aigon C oworking
saigoncoworking.com: Youre searching

for an intimate creation and innovation
centre with natural light and pops of
greenery to keep the creativity from
stalling.
Food & drink
MYSTERY DINER hanoi
French Grill
Our anonymous food reviewer pays a visit to the signature

restaurant in My Dinhs JW Marriott. Photos by David Harris
hen people ask me where

to go for a nice western
dinner in Hanoi, Ill
rattle off the usual list of
suspects, which usually comes down
to a simple question: steakhouse or
French-influenced fare? French Grill
straddles both genres. You dont have
to decide what youre going to eat
until youre seated on smooth leather
banquettes, sipping a cocktail and
tearing off thick hunks of crusty bread.
Located in the outlying district
of My Dinh, French Grill isnt
exactly in the centre of town, but
the effect when you pull up to the
architecturally ambitious JW Marriott
makes up for the long drive. As my
dining companion put it: These
days, you have to get out of Hanoi to
build something beautiful.
A Table for Two

Bringing company proved to be a
good idea: the modest appetizer,
main course and dessert combination
I ordered easily satisfied both of
our (American-sized) appetites. We
started with flambeed lobster Caesar
salad (VND500,000), and flambeed
it was: a cart was rolled over to our
table so that we could watch the
cooking process. After mixing the
salad, the server ceremoniously
poured butter into a small pan and set
the lobster aflame. While the portion
was small, the generous amount
of creamy dressing made the salad
surprisingly filling. Volume-wise,

there was probably as much dressing
as lettuce, although that crusty bread
and a light, beachy French 75 cocktail
(VND225,000) went a long way
towards cutting the richness.
The restaurant offers both
traditional French-style dishes and
lighter grilled options. We opted for
Australian tenderloin (VND500,000).
While the steak proved to be tasty
but unexceptional, the presentation
was yet again superb. The kitchen
thoughtfully pre-divided the steak
for sharing, a nice touch as steak can
be particularly cumbersome to share
especially at the tables here. So
vast are they that you realise space
is certainly not at a premium in this
restaurant.
The accompaniments were
also on point: a clove of buttery
roasted garlic still in the husk
(included) and perfectly golden,
crispy fries (VND80,000). The server
recommended morel mushroom
sauce, however we felt a far better
mushroom fix was the side dish
of wild mushrooms (VND80,000),
sauteed in butter and flecked with
herbs and sea salt.
The Finale
Desserts are listed on a chalkboard,
but perhaps to spare the servers
having to go through them the
chef has created an option that should
be on every dessert menu ever:
the Grand Dessert (VND250,000).

Conveniently priced at the same
level as the other desserts, it offers a
sample of everything. Lined up along
a narrow tray were a melting puddle
of warm chocolate ganache, a pillowlike baba rhum and a miniature jar of
minced pear simmered in red wine
sauce. The careful array was bordered
with two generous scoops of ice
cream in vanilla and pistachio.
Not only is presentation carefully
considered, but the service is
five-star. This is not to say that
mistakes are not made. But when
they are, they are immediately and
solicitously rectified. When a cocktail
arrived late, the server vociferously
apologised; when the lobster
flambeeing cart was a bit awkwardly
placed, it was wheeled closer to our
table. A glass shaker of finishing salt
inside a burlap pouch came tucked
into the bill. These are the little
touches that on occasion foreigners
miss, and what makes French Grill
worth the expense and the journey
out to My Dinh.
Its also worth it for the view. Vast
glass windows offer a glimpse into
the citys future. Gazing out at the
twinkling lights and growing array
of tall buildings, you can see Hanoi
making its way towards becoming a
modern Asian city.
French Grill is in the JW Marriott at 8,
Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi. Tel:
(04) 3833 5588
THE VERDICT
13
Food
14
Service
14
Dcor
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
Street Snacker hanoi
Banh Cuon Ruoc Tom

There are many places to eat banh cuon in the capital. But one eatery does
this dish just that little bit differently to make it stand out from the crowd.
Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by David Harris
ummer in Hanoi is on its way.

During this time of the year,
with the transitioning weather
in northern Vietnam, Im not
immune to the common confusion on
what to eat for breakfast, since the
muggy weather definitely causes a loss of
appetite.
In the heat of the morning, the decision is
clear banh cuon, or steamed rice rolls. For
the summer, theres no better choice than
light and delicate yet flavourful rolls, dipped
into warm fish sauce with fresh herbs.
The question is where to go. Famous
eateries like Banh Cuon Hang Ga (14 Hang
Ga, Hoan Kiem), Banh Cuon Ba Hoanh (66
To Hien Thanh, Hai Ba Trung) or Banh Cuon
Gia An (25 Thai Phien, Hai Ba Trung) arent
quite what I have pictured for this early
morning, when Id rather find a small corner
to enjoy and relax.
So, I decide to head for Banh Cuon
Phuong (68 Hang Cot, Hoan Kiem). Arriving
at this banh cuon eatery on a quiet corner
block around 7am, it is peaceful and silent
a rarity in the Old Quarter. An elegant,
elderly lady is pouring thin silky liquid
batter on a stretched muslin cloth over a
large pot of boiling water. Her daughter

keeps wrapping the sheet with minced
pork while quiet diners are enjoying their
banh cuon in the calm. Featured in a cooking
programme a few years back made by wellknown Vietnamese-Australian chef, Luke
Nguyen, this eatery has been seen around
the world. Yet it remains endearingly local.
Treats Done Differently

The neat and tidy eatery offers many types
of banh cuon, but their signature dish is banh
cuon ruoc tom, or shredded shrimp banh
cuon with cha que my choice for this early
morning. Not two minutes after I order, the
beautifully presented banh cuon plate is in
front of me, with salted and shredded shrimp
meat on top of the white and tender rolls.
The dark brown cha que looks irresistible, and
the dipping sauce fresh Vietnamese mint
and sliced chillis is ready to be added.
What is most interesting in this banh cuon
eatery is the big pot of fish sauce on each
table, free for diners to take as much as they
want. The sauce here is also distinct from
other eateries, as there is sliced nam huong, or
shiitake mushroom in it.
The mushroom makes the sauce tender,
sweet and rich, says the old lady. But more

importantly, it is really good for peoples
health. Thats why I decided to put it into
the sauce.
Locals often say that the thinner the white
rice paper on banh cuon, the better the roll
tastes. Here at this corner eatery, the thin rice
paper covers clearly visible ingredients, a
sign of its taste.
Everyone knows that tasty banh cuon
requires thin rice paper, but making nice
rice paper is quite tricky for many people,
the owner explains, who opened her eatery
more than 30 years ago. It should not be
in the steam any more or any less than 30
seconds. Then, slide the thin rice paper onto
an oiled tray and scoop a tablespoon of
minced pork with wood-ear mushroom onto
the sheet, and fold to form a perfect roll.
On an early Hanoian morning, before
the Old Quarter wakes, this local eatery is a
perfect breakfast choice. For those who have
not yet tried banh cuon ruon tom, its easy
to fall in love with its light, flavourful and
earthy rolls.
Banh Cuon Phuong is located at 68 Hang Cot,
Hoan Kiem. Banh cuon ruoc tom paired with cha
que costs VND40,000 per plate
Food & drink
MYSTERY DINER hCMC
Lubu
Our undercover reviewer heads to District 2 to check out a

restaurant thats making waves. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
fter an icing of our relations, my

editor decided to call a dtente
and asked me if I would be
interested in writing another
mystery diner piece. The subject Lubu
in District 2 a restaurant that has
earned some nice words from some smart
mouths, a restaurant that I had yet to visit
but that was stacked close to the top of my
to-do list.
No problem, mate, I replied, trying
to remember our nations diplomatic
camaraderie in response to his David
Cameron-esque extended hand. All
sounds lovely jubbly.
The frown that followed my second
comment suggested that our little Cold
War had yet to completely thaw. So I hit
a sharp exit from his third-floor editorial
office and made a beeline over to Thao
Dien.
Whiter than White

The first thing you notice when you enter
the air-conditioned interior of Lubu is
how white it is. Not peach white, rose
white or bluish-white. No, this is the kind
of white you find doused on houses in
the Mediterranean. Even the abstract oils
on the main wall are all white, with only
the layered brushstrokes giving them
anything resembling definition. The effect
works thanks to the sea blue and brick
red-patterned floor tiles. Once again these
speak the restaurants Mediterranean
theme theyre the type of tiles you may
find in places as far flung as Portugal,
Morocco and Greece. This is continued
through to the L-shaped, terracotta-tiled,
outdoor terrace, which also commands a
sense of the summery, European south.
Besides the dcor, I discovered that one of
the pleasures of eating at Lubu is avoiding
processed foods and other artificial stuff

everything is prepared on-site, even down
to the musty-tasting, slightly lemony cola.
Coca-Cola is banned from this place.
A good example of the home preparation
and the attention to serving up nutritious
cuisine comes with the beetroot cured
salmon with pink grapefruit, pinenuts
and beetroot chips (VND180,000 /
VND240,000). Every part of this dish, from
the croutons to the beetroot chips to the
cured salmon, has been prepared in the
kitchen rather than bought in finished form
from suppliers. The dish itself is light,
mixing the tart flavours of the grapefruit
with the saltiness of the salmon. It is
Mediterranean yet slightly Vietnamese
pink grapefruit or pomelo is used widely in
this countrys salads. And its an example
of how local products and ingredients are
integrated well into the menu here.
Luxurious but Light

Because I wanted to try as many dishes
as possible, I went for the starter version
of the potato gnocchi, grilled prawns,
tomato, burnt sage butter (VND140,000
/ VND200,000). Drenched in grated
parmesan and sage butter, this is a rich,
luxurious dish tempered by the acidity
of the tomatoes. The prawns are served
Vietnamese-style, with the crunchy tails
still in place. And the crispiness of the
sage leaf gives this dish a delightful and
unexpected amalgamation of contrasting
textures. Wonderfully tasty, but not for
anyone pretending to be on a diet.
The braised pressed lamb shoulder with
mint, tomato and olive salad and harissa
(VND200,000 / VND300,000) was a stark
contrast to my previous offering, yet once
again provided that interesting contrast of
textures. Pressed inside a breaded outer
layer, the lamb inside is stringy and soft
while the bread comes out crispy. Add in
the olives, mint and harissa on the side, as
well as an herb-coated ball of cream cheese,
and you get a contrast of tastes to add to
the different textures on the plate. I did
have two comments on this dish. The lamb
was too dry for my liking and I would have
loved the harissa to have more bite. But
nonetheless, unusual and tasty fare.
Dont Stop There

The menu here takes in a lot of other
options such as twice-cooked octopus,
seared swordfish, pici with duck ragu,
New Zealand sirloin steak, kleftico,
fine de Claire oysters and of course,
a nice variation on a tried and tested
theme, lobster and chips. And prices
are reasonable, too mains go from
VND200,000 to VND450,000. There is also
an extensive New and Old World wine list
to go with the cuisine.
Lubu is also getting known for its
weekend breakfast that it has now begun
to serve during the week. Mediterraneanthemed, the breakfasts avoid bacon and
eggs, eggs benedict and all things youd
expect in any other normal restaurant,
instead opting for the likes of green eggs
and ham and the type of breakfast youd
expect to find in that region separating
Europe and Africa.
As my editor told me in no uncertain
words, this is one of the things that makes
Lubu stand out. Its different, and not your
standard kind of restaurant.
Adam and Eve me, I told him, trying
to add a bit of rhyming slang to the
conversation. It was well worth the bees
and honey. I reckon you should take a
butchers hook.
If looks could speak a thousand words,
then the one he gave me would be worth a
million. I dont think even he understood.
As for Lubu, Ive eaten in most of the top
restaurants in this town. This sits up there
with the very best.
Lubu is at 97B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 8371. Click on luburestaurant.com for
more information
THE VERDICT
13
Food
14
Service
14
Dcor
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
Food & drink
Photos by Kyle Phanroy
Com Ga Hai Nam
Eat & Drink
A Short History
of Chicken Rice
Chicken rice or com ga is a favourite daily eat in both
Southern and Central Vietnam, but where does it
actually come from? Words by Nick Ross
om Ga Ba Luan Tam Ky. The name

is quite a mouthful. But this chain,
air-conditioned eatery is probably
the only purveyor of traditional
chicken rice that youre likely to find in Ho
Chi Minh City. When we say traditional,
what we mean is the dish as it has been
served in Central Vietnam for well over
two centuries, possibly even three. Its the
dish originally coming from Hainan Island,
Chinas most southerly province. And like
cao lau, the Japanese soba noodle-influenced
dish that Hoi An is so proud of, com ga Tam
Ky is a remnant of the once cosmopolitan
inhabitants of what is now Quang Nam, the

province south of Danang that includes Hoi
An and its provincial capital, Tam Ky.
Yet unlike Hainanese-influenced chicken
rice available elsewhere in the region and
sold in a number of eateries in Saigon, the
actual chicken in the Tam Ky version is
surprisingly plain. Coming with innards
in a separate bowl of spicy sauce, the rice
is saffron-coloured and boiled with only
a tiny amount of chicken stock or fat. On
top of the chicken are fresh herbs including
mint as well as bean sprouts. Vietnamese
pickles sit on the side. The offering differs
distinctly from the rich-in-taste version that

has become one of Singapores national
dishes and is so readily available in Ho Chi
Minh City and increasingly in Hanoi. And
yet, with this dish comes a history that says
much about the once important trading
prowess of Central Vietnam. Even the taste
talks history it comes from a period where
food was eaten with little embellishment.
A Place Called Faifo

Look back at the development of Southeast
Asia, and a few important trading ports
come to mind Malacca, Penang, Singapore
Photos by Thao Ngo
Com Ga Ba Buoi
and Faifo, the city now known as Hoi An.

Originally established by the Cham, who
located their spiritual capital at nearby My
Son, in 1535 the Portuguese explorer Antnio
de Faria tried to establish a major trading
port in what was then known locally as Hai
Pho (seaside town) thus the foreign
pronunciation, Faifo. With the support of
the Nguyen Lords, early-17th century Hoi
An began to flourish and became the most
important trading port on the East Sea. In
the 18th century, it became considered by
Chinese and Japanese merchants to be the
best destination for trading in all of Southeast
Asia, with the city rising to prominence
as a powerful and exclusive trade conduit
between Europe, China, India and Japan.
Such importance saw the establishment of a
large cosmopolitan population by the 18th
century the city was home to 5,000 Chinese,
Arabs, Japanese and Europeans, mainly
Dutch. With them came their cuisine.
The link between Hoi An and Tam Ky
(meaning three flags), 40km further south,
is tenuous. But Tam Ky itself is a Chinese
name and one can only guess that the town
(now city) was at one point populated by
Chinese associated in some way with Hoi
An. One thing is clear, Tam Ky chicken
rice is distinctly influenced by Hainanese
wenchang chicken, the oily looking, boiled
chicken that has become the darling
of Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand and
elsewhere in Southeast Asia. The chicken is
seared and then boiled in the same manner
as its forebear. The skin becomes a glutinous
yellow and the flesh comes with a rubbery

look that belies how tender it is.
The Hoi An Version

When Hoi An started to open up to tourism
in the 1990s, there was no such thing as Hoi
An chicken rice, or com ga Hoi An. Instead,
local eateries sold the Tam Ky version of this
Hainanese dish. Yet 20 years later, it is one of
the towns must-eats. So, on a recent visit to
this popular tourist destination, we decided
to try it out.
Regarded as probably the best chicken
rice joint in Hoi An, like almost everywhere
else in this heritage-sensitive town Com Ga
Ba Buoi has maintained its traditional look
wooden signage, old wooden tables and
benches on top of a concrete floor interior,
Hoi An-style lanterns hanging from the
ceiling and the table with all the ingredients
on top in the far corner of the dining space.
Yet, like its compadre to the south in
Tam Ky, the chicken by itself has little taste.
While the saffron-coloured rice is moreish,
the overall effect of the dish seems to be
down to all the added tastes fresh onions,
fresh herbs, pickles and a warm sauce
that is doused on top. Taken as individual
elements, the ingredients lose all meaning.
But coming together as one whole dish, they
make for a tasty meal.
For me, I still prefer the Hainanese version
that comes from Singapore, the version that
first arrived in the Lion City in the 1850s.
Here the chicken is chopped on the bone and
the rice is boiled with chicken stock, giving it
a rich, buttery melt-in-your-mouth sensation.

And despite a few embellishments such
as cucumber, spring onions and coriander,
all the other on-the-side accompaniments
you would find in the Tam Ky version are
missing. Even the innards.
Yet, as Singaporeans have been at pains
to tell me, you cant get good chicken rice in
Vietnam at best it will be average. The
rice is not as rich, the chicken less oily and
lacking in flavour, and as for the chilli
well, for Singaporeans, if you dont have
good chilli, you just wont have a good meal.
Yet eaten at Com Ga Hai Nam in Saigons
District 1, with some char siu (xa xiu or sweet
barbecued pork) on the side, Im not one to
complain. Its cheap, too. At VND45,000 for a
plate of the good stuff, you cant go wrong.
Ba Luan Tam Ky has four eateries in Ho Chi
Minh City including their original spot at 21
Pho Duc Chinh, Q1. Go to comgabaluan.com for
more information. Com Ga Hai Nam is at 55 Le
Thi Hong Gam, Q1 and Com Ga Ba Buoi in Hoi
An is at 22 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoi An. To taste the
good stuff in Hanoi go to Tao Quan, 74 Bui Thi
Xuan, Hai Ba Trung
fashion
BED-IN
I like artists who have something to say, not wallpaper.
Yoko Ono
Dasha printed silk shirt: VND3 million | Zacharie

cobalt organic cotton mini skirt: VND2.5 million
Even at rest, Yoko Ono and John Lennon had something to say. They spent a lot of time indoors,
but let their inner lives be visible to the world.
In cloud-covered threads inspired by one of Onos artworks, our models recall a time when musicians
were the loudest dreamers, when their actions expressed as much as the music they played.
Mama printed silk scarf: VND2.2 million
Hanneke black silk top: VND3.5 million
Audrey dress: VND3.5 million
Nina silk lingerie set: VND800,000 |

Leonie light blue organza bubble skirt:
VND4.7 million (available on order)
Right page:
Organza mist grey silk t-shirt:
VND3.5million (available on order) |
Cumulus printed organic cotton skirt: VND4
million (available on order) | Leonie baby
pink organza bubble skirt: VND4.7 million
(available on order)

Styling by Kathryn Cardenas
Models: Florence Bacin and Chad Fischer (aka DJ
FONIKS)
Clothing by Linda Mai Phung (lindamaiphung.com)
Available at LUsine 151/1 Dong Khoi, Q1, HCMC
Lingerie set available at Ginkgo Concept Store
254 De Tham, Q1, HCMC
travel
mongolia
The Outer Reaches

Duhwee Pham boldly went where not so many travellers have gone before
Mongolia. From searing landscapes and local hospitality to the pollution
of the fast-developing big city, here is what he saw
Khustain Nuruu National Park

We got to Khustain Nuruu National Park on our second day in
Mongolia. Its only an hour-and-a-half drive from Ulaanbaatar,
yet there is no trace of the capitals modern buildings. The entire
landscape consists of snow, with a few lonely gers (herder tents).
Every step you take, your shoes sink into snow, the minus 35-degree
wind numbing all your senses.
Bayanzag
The Gobi Desert is the polar opposite of the snowy landscape.
Bayanzag literally means Flaming Cliff and its vast, rocky terrain
rivals the Grand Canyon or even Mars. Dinosaur fossils are
frequently discovered here the locals even sell dinosaur eggs in
the summer.
Khongor Dune
Getting to the 100km Khongor Dune involves climbing cliffs and
finding a part of the river thats frozen enough to drive across. A
sandstorm hit the dune minutes after we went to get some sunset
shots. All we could see was a big wall of sand slowly yet firmly
swallowing anything in its path. The real treat came during the night,
when the desert was silently illuminated by thousands of stars.
Yolyn Am
Our final stop was Yolyn Am Ice Canyon. The frozen river here
is the only way to proceed. We took every step with caution the
further we walked, the less frozen the river got, until the ground
was so swampy we had to stop. We also had to keep an eye out for
wolves, arming ourselves with rocks.
Mongolian Hospitality
Traditionally, the owner of the ger will first offer you a snuff bottle of
tobacco powder, which is surprisingly aromatic. Next comes a round
of drinks, from milk tea and yogurt to vodka and various regional
liquors. My favourite was a homemade liquor brewed from fruit
that we sampled on our way to Khongor. The flow doesnt stop until
you leave the ger, and its served with a diverse selection of meats,
dumplings and side dishes. Because of the new year, the centrepiece
of every family's celebratory meal was a big cake made with butter
and yogurt. The longer the man of the family has lived, the more
layers there are on the cake.
Mongolia Today
Mongolia is rapidly moving towards modernisation. Our guide
Eddie told us only one child from every nomad family takes on their
parents lifestyle. The rest of the siblings head to bigger towns or
Ulaanbaatar to pursue higher education and a more stable lifestyle.
While the city still has many Soviet buildings and factories, there
are also multiple skyscrapers, and travellers can find everything
from local food to Cuban empanadas in the stylish restaurants that
overlook the city. The nightlife scene is booming with new bars and
lavish clubs.
Information
V isas
30-day transit or tourist visas can be

obtained from the relevant embassy
or via the likes of mongoliatravelguide.
mn. You can also purchase a visa on
arrival at Chinggis Khaan (Ulaanbaatar)
Airport. The cost is US$50 (VND1.1
million) plus a small administration fee.
The following countries are visa exempt:
USA, Canada, Germany, Israel, Japan,
Turkey, Thailand, Philippines, Singapore
and Hong Kong.
F lights
The following airlines fly to Ulaanbaatar:

Mongolian Airlines, Korean Airlines, Air
China, Aeroflot and Turkish Airlines
T rains
The trains from Beijing and Moscow run

through to Ulaanbaatar once a week.
There is also a daily train between the
Mongolian capital and Vladivostok
A ccommodation
in
U laanbaatar
Budget rooms start at around US$6

(VND126,000) a night. Mid-range options
cost between US$40 (VND840,000) and
US$70 (VND1.47 million) a night. There
are also a growing number of five-star
hotels.
E ating
and
D rinking
If you go local, its very cheap in

Mongolia. But end up in the clubs and
top-end bars, and beers cost around
US$3 (VND63,000) for half a litre. Expect
to pay around US$1 (VND21,000) to
US$2 (VND42,000) a meal if you go
budget.
travel
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Dalat
ANA MANDARA VILLAS
$$$$
Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063)
3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE
$$$$
12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY
$$$
Tel: 0933 446542
bhayacruises.com
Experience breathtaking
tours of the serene Halong
Bay, aboard reproduction
wooden junks. Two or three
night trips with a wide range
of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.
CUC PHUONG
$
Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh
Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006
cucphuongtourism.com
Dalat Green City Hotel

172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
Located in central Dalat,
this is the perfect place for
budget travellers. Quiet,
newly refurbished with
beautiful mountain and city
views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and
snack bar in all rooms with
a downstairs coffee shop
and computers in the lobby
for guest use.
EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES,

HALONG BAY
$$$$
Tel: (04) 3935 1888
emeraude-cruises.com
Reproductions, of 19th
century paddle steamers,
trawl around Halong Bay
in colonial style. A classic
experience, complete with,
overnight accommodations
in impeccable cabins suites.
LA FERME DU COLVERT
$$
Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh,
Tel: 02183 825662
etoile-des-mers.com
LA VIE VU LINH
$
Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen
Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743
lavievulinh.com
Dalat Train Villa

Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 381 6365
dalattrainvilla.com
Located near the Dalat Train
Station, the Dalat Train Villa
is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.
In its grounds is a 1910
train carriage which has
been renovated into a bar
and cafe. Located within 10
minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.
MAI CHAU LODGE
$$$
Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh,
Tel: (0218) 386 8959
maichaulodge.com
NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY
$$
Ha Long Road, Bai Chay
Ward, Ha Long City, Quang
Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108
novotelhalong.com.vn
TRUNG CANG HOTEL
$
22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 2663
Around Hanoi
BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER
HOTEL
$$$
KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong
Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031)
388 0888
pearlriverhotel.vn
Tam Coc Garden Resort

Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu,
Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249
2118
contact@tamcocgarden.
com
tamcocgarden.com
Surrounded by rice fields
and spectacular karsts,
Tam Coc Garden is a haven
of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury.
Spacious rooms with rustic
and chic dcor, a pool with
breathtaking views, a beau-
tiful garden, and panoramic

views over the fields and
mountains. The perfect place
to relax.
Hanoi - International
CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL
$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 6270 6688
crowneplazawesthanoi.com
This premier five-star
property lies beside the My
Dinh National Stadium and
Convention Centre. Boasts
two swimming pools, a spa,
and a fitness centre in its 24
stories.
DAEWOO HOTEL
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3831 5555
www.hanoi-daewoohotel.
com
This enormous structure
offers the most modern of
amenities, and with four
restaurants and two bars,
the events staff is well
equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National
Convention Center, and a
favourite of the business
traveller, Daewoo even
boasts an outdoor driving
range. Shortly to become a
Marriot property.
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI

6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3831 3333
www.fortuna.vn
This 350-room four-star set
up in the heart of Hanois financial district has a variety
of rooms on offer, a capital
lounge and three restaurants that serve Japanese,
Chinese and international
cuisine. And like youd expect, theres a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a
separate spa and treatment
facility for men and women.
Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business
deals on rooms and spaces
to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.
HOTEL DE LOPERA
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
Resting just a step away
from the Opera House, the
hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.
The first boutique five star
in the heart of Hanoi, the

lavish, uniquely designed
107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and
are complimented by two
restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI
WESTLAKE
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6270 8888
www.hanoi.intercontinental.
com
This stunning property built
over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.
Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable,
top-end accommodation and
all the mod-cons make up the
mix here together with the
resorts three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar,
a watering hole located on a
thoroughfare over the lake.
Great gym and health club.
JW Marriott Hanoi
8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu
Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833
5588
jwmarriotthanoi.com
From the expressive architecture outside to the
authentic signature JW
Marriott services inside,
this Marriott hotel in Hanoi
is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next
door to the National Convention Centre.
May de Ville Old Quarter

43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933
5688
maydeville.com
The largest four-star hotel
in Hanois Old Quarter, 110
rooms, a swimming pool, a
top floor terrace bar and a
location just a stones throw
from Hoan Kiem Lake make
this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in
the heart of the action.
MELIA HANOI
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
www.meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central
Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws
plenty of business travellers and is also a popular
venue for conferences and
wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant
restaurants, stylish bars,
fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house
guests satisfied.
MVENPICK HOTEL HANOI

83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
www.moevenpick-hanoi.
com
With its distinctive French
architecture and top end
service, Mvenpick Hotel
Hanoi is aimed squarely at
corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge
bar are available to satiate
their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range
of equipment. Massage and
sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to
rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites,
93 are non-smoking.
PULLMAN HOTEL
$$$$
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3733 0808
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and
suites, a contemporary
lobby, an excellent buffet,
and a la carte restaurant,
this Accor group property
is prestigious and close to
the Old Quarter.
www.airasia.com
Air France
130 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3825 8583
www.airfrance.com.vn
Air Mekong
1st Floor, Centre Point
Building, 106 Nguyen Van
Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: (08) 3846 3999
www.airmekong.com.vn
American Airlines
194 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330
www.aa.com
Cathay Pacific
5th Floor, Centec Tower,
72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3
Tel: 3822 3203
www.cathaypacific.com/
vn
China Airlines
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Tel: 3911 1591
www.china-airlines.com
Japan Airlines
3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3821 9098
www.vn.jal.com
Jetstar Pacific
www.jetstar.com/vn
SHERATON
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
www.sheraton.com/hanoi
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and
tranquil courtyards, this
peaceful property features
picturesque views of West
Lake and is less than 10
minutes from downtown.
In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers
an outdoor swimming pool
and great relaxation and
fitness facilities, including a
tennis court and spa. There
are well equipped conference rooms and a newly
refurbished Executive Club
Lounge.
SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE

HANOI
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
www.sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French
colonial period is probably
still the finest in todays Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was)
anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where
the service is impeccable
and the luxurious facilities
complement the ambiance of
a bygone era. Definitely the
place to put the Comtessa up
for a night.
Korean Air
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3824 2878
www.koreanair.com
Lao Airlines
93 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: 3822 6990
www.laoairlines.com
Malaysia Airlines
Ground Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1
Tel: 3829 2529
www.malaysiaairlines.
com
Singapore Airlines
Saigon Tower Bulding,
Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3823 1588
www.singaporeair.com
Thai Airways
29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3822 3365
www.thaiairways.com.vn
Tiger Airways
www.tigerair.com
vietjetair
www.vietjetair.com
Vietnam Airlines
27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
Tel: 3832 0320
www.vietnamairlines.com
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Want to add more information to your listing? Get in touch and

let us see what we can do. Email us at listings@wordvietnam.com
SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI

1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3823 8888
Boasting Hanois best views
of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake
and the Red River, Sofitel
Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.
The 5-star hotel features
317 luxurious, comfortable
guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view
ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.
a short walk from the Opera

House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining
contemporary architecture
with traditional Vietnamese
style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including
four suites.
Hanoi Budget
HANOI BACKBACKERS HOSTEL
Hanoi Mid-Range
6 ON SIXTEEN
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
www.sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to
grace Hanois Old Quarter,
the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with
handicrafts and antique.
Breakfast is included and in
the long, lounge restaurant
on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is
served up with fresh fruit
juices and Lavazza coffee.
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL
$$$
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928
6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the
Old Quarter, this little slice of
heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient
restaurant, serves the finest
in international and Vietnamese cuisine.
MAISON DHANOI HANOVA HOTEL
$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem
Lake, this glowing pearl in
the heart of Hanoi provides
tranquility with an art gallery
and piano bar.
MAY DE VILLE
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988
Set in the old French Quarter
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3828 5372
www.hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town,
with bunk-style beds mixed
or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus
a couple of double suites
from VND250,000. A place
to meet like-minded fold in
the Old Quarter.
HCMC - International
CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Reports
2006 list of the worlds top
100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular
rooftop Saigon Saigon bar,
and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.
DUXTON HOTEL
$$$
63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2999
saigon.duxtonhotels.com
Famous for its daylong
rotatingmenu buffets, the
Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym,
spa, and fine dining.
EQUATORIAL
$$$
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property
boasts seven dining and
entertainment outlets, a
business centre, meeting
rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.
The Equatorial also has an
on-site casino.
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON
$$$$$
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 7777
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex
offers: 14 instant offices,
seven meeting rooms, a
600-capacity ballroom, spa,
outdoor swimming pool, a
gym, 24-hour fine dining,
24-hours room service, and
limousine services.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON
$$$$$
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh
City, resides the Asiana with
signature dining options,
an innovative cocktail bar,
exclusive spa and health
club, together with luxury
boutique arcade.
2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in
location, everything one
would expect from the Hyatt.
The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants
have garnered an excellent
reputation, as has the landscaped pool.
PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE
$$$$$
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the
site of the old Metropole,
this upscale, contemporary
property boasts 306 signature rooms combining

design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine,
a great downtown location
and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600
guests make up the mix.
REX HOTEL
$$$$
3829 2185
rexhotelvietnam.com
Brimming with history the
Rexs openair fifthfloor
bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now
five-star property, boasts
designer fashion and a shop-
ping arcade.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the
Saigon River, a 15-minute
scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town,
Riversides complementary
shuttle services take you
right in the city centre. With
152 fully equipped serviced
apartments, the property
offers special packages for
short-term stay starting at
VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.
Josephs Hotel
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
Next to the cathedral
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON
$$$$
2A4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture,
spacious rooms, and a fine
selection of fine dining, with
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
NEW WORLD HOTEL
$$$$
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Former guests include U.S.
presidents two Bushes,
Clinton and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event
as well as a hotel, New World
is one of the best luxury
stops in town.
PARK HYATT
$$$$$
Free wi-fi, international breakfast,

spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,
multi-shower, friendly service
www.josephshotel.com
5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
Destination Zero
On the Peninsula
he devil they say is in the detail,

and when it comes to details, the
InterContinental in Danang is
quite truly in a world of its own.
Located on Son Tra Peninsula, and
nestled on the side of a jungle-clad
mountain in a secluded bay, the structures
that make up what is one of the top
properties in Vietnam mix Mediterranean
with imperial Vietnamese design.
The result is something quite unique.
From the rooms which fuse dark wood
with Southern European white, to the
Vietnamese boat-shaped funicular which
transports passengers up and down the
mountain, to the otherworldliness of La
Maison 1888, the Michel Roux-inspired
restaurant that sits halfway down the side
of the mountain.
But what really stands out is the flora
which while manicured somehow
maintains a wildness and the interior
design. The work of designer and
landscape architect Bill Bensley, such are
the nuances and quirks of all the details
that your eyes get a visual treat in every

direction you look. Take the monkey
sculptures. A tribute to an area that is
home to a population of macaques and
red-shanked douc langurs, each piece
draws out the personality of monkeys.
This is then extended through to the
soon-to-open nightclub that has bizarre
and even wacky monkey motifs in every
nook and not-so-hidden cranny. Even
La Maison 1888 has its own form on
wackyness, its upstairs rooms designed
with such well-themed intricacy that you
cannot help but stare. Here, from the sea,
beach and jungle through to the ambience,
experience is everything.
I attended a recent wedding in the resort.
It started with a late afternoon ceremony
outside La Maison 1888 that overlooked
the sea, before moving onto the beach for a
live cooking station buffet. The effect was
ethereal, the service perfect to a T, and as
for the cuisine, faultless. Nick Ross
For more information go to danang.
intercontinental.com
travel
travel
Photography Tips
Shooting into the Sun
By Etienne Bossot
asic composition lessons state

that whenever possible, you
should try to keep the light
behind you when taking a photo.
If you dont, you risk entering the dark
dimension of the backlit universe, a
terrifying land where your backgrounds
are blown to smithereens and all of your
subjects are underexposed.
Youll also damage your sensor, destroy
your camer, and quite possibly blow up
your hands in the process? Youll probably
even lose your nose. And both eyes.
Besides, if you dont keep the sun to your
back when shooting, youll be breaking the
number one cardinal rule of photography:
each photo you take should be perfectly
exposed, perfectly framed, and everysingle-rule-youve-ever-learned-ever about
correct photography should be applied.
But hold on a second. Youre not retired,
and youre probably not a member of some
snooty photography club in Paris. Youre
young, youre shooting in Asia, and youve
chosen a lifestyle steeped in dynamism and
flexibility (not to mention the 210%-coolerthan-living-back-home factor.)
So if youre living the lifestyle of a
young, hip, open-minded photographer,
why are you shooting like an old,
conservative, stuffy photo-school grad?
Sometimes rules are meant to be broken.
And sometimes you should gasp!
shoot into the light.
Now obviously shooting into the sun
will create some issues. Your cameras
metering mode is confused by the light,
your exposure will end up all wrong:
your subject will be too dark, and your
background (bright sky) will be an
overexposed and burnt white.
This is a challenge to be embraced, not
avoided. So how can you deal with such a
situation?
Overexpose Your Photo

Your first instinct might be to overexpose
your photo in order to compensate
for your underexposed subject. The
problem with this technique is that your
background will then become WAY
overexposed, and look like an ugly washed
out white area reminiscent of oh, I dont
know, Detroit.
So if youre going to overexpose in such
a way, try it when the sun is soft and low
on the horizon, in the early morning or late
afternoon. This will create a soft, golden
overexposed background, which I like to
call the fashion blow up.
Spot Metering
Instead of overexposing your photo, you
could switch to spot metering and expose
for your subject. However, Ive found that
overexposing the photo is always much
faster than trying to switch to a different
metering mode in the middle of a shot.
Shoot in Silhouette
If you accurately expose for your
background and it is very bright outside,
your subject will become a beautiful, pitch
black silhouette. This option works well if
the silhouette of your subject is clear (a lady
with a Vietnamese hat, a running kid, etc...).
If, on the other hand, your subject is looking
straight at you with no particular shape to
be observed, theyll end up looking like an
old black sausage.
Be sure to place your subject directly
between you and the sky for best results.
This may require you to get down on the
ground in order to shoot, so be mindful
of your environment I rarely shoot
silhouettes in the streets of Hanoi, for
instance.
Most cameras have a function that I call
the quick silhouette mode. Technically its
called the exposure lock, but that sounds
so boring and mechanical. On Canon,

silhouette mode is the star button, while
on Nikon its the AE-L button. Use it by
pointing your camera to the brightest area
(sun or sky) and pressing it (just once for
Canon, holding it for Nikon).
This function will expose for this brightest
area and lock that exposure in place
hence the name exposure lock. Once your
exposure is locked, get down low, focus on
your subject and take your shot.
Quick silhouette mode is great for
just that a few quick silhouette shots. If
youre planning on making a day of it, I
recommend another solution:
a) If youre shooting in aperture mode, point to
the brightest area of the sky and check the camera
settings.
b) Switch to manual mode and apply the exact
same settings.
Now every single photo you take will be
exposed for the brightest area. These settings
will work as long as the light stays the same.
You now have three solid options for
shooting into the sun. So feel free to take
a risk, break the rules, and send me your
results.
To get in contact with Etienne, email info@
picsofasia.com or go to picsofasia.com
travel
RIVERSIDE HOTEL
$$$$$
1819-20 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417
riversidehotelsg.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers
complimentary Wi-Fi, airport
pickup or drop off, a 4th floor
ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River
Restaurant.
SHERATON
$$$$$
88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of
the best locations in town,
with firstclass facilities,
an openair restaurant 23
floors above the city and
a live music venue on the
same floor.
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA
$$$$
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
This 20story building in
downtown Saigon, caters
to upscale business and
leisure travelers seeking a
classic yet contemporary
stay in Saigon.
WINDSOR PLAZA
$$$
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its
own shopping hub (including
a bank), fine dining, a sauna,
health club, and superb
panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest
Oktoberfest in the region.
HCMC - Deluxe
CONTINENTAL
$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn
This charming old hotel has
been fted in literature and
in film. In the heart of Saigon,
this is the first choice to high-
light Vietnamese culture.
$$$
3829 5517
majesticsaigon.com.vn
chic thanks to a subdued

palette of white and grey
around two pop colours:
azalea pink and green hot
pepper. Part of the Thien
Minh Group that includes
Victoria Hotels and Buffalo
Tours.
NORFOLK HOTEL
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2
HOTEL MAJESTIC
$$$
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique
business hotel is located
minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and
is renowned for its fabulous
steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.
NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE
$$$
167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3822 4866
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has
a contemporary feel, an
international buffet The
Square a rooftop bar, and
a wellness centre including a
swimming pool, gym, sauna
and spa.
STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL
$$$
144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
The newly-built hotel is near
Tan Son Nhat International
Airport. With spectacular
city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming
pool, there is little reason not
to choose this shining star.
HCMC - Mid-Range
ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$
3822 5914
kimdohotel.com
EMM Hotel
157 Pasteur, Q3
A sleek, contemporary
three-star hotel that mixes
vintage appeal and modern
$$$
46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa
Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
THAO DIEN VILLAGE
$$
195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2222
thaodienvillage.com
A colonialstyle hotel and
spa offers fine Italian, Thai
and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view
that overlook the bank of
the Saigon River, this is truly
someplace special.
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL
$$$
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,
Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256
9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
HCMC - Budget
DUC VUONG HOTEL
$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 6992
ducvuonghotel.com
Free WiFi offered in every
room. Low prices, friendly
staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps
from the backpackers area.
SINH HUONG HOTEL
$
157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
Hoi An & Danang

An Bang Beach Retreat
An Bang Beach, Hoi An
www.anbangbeachretreat.
com
CUA DAI
$
544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:
(0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$
Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu
Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 396 1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn
FURAMA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da
Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang
Resort and Spa is beachfront
with a stunning view of the
Marble Mountains. There
are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.
LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI
$$$
Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui
Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel:
(0510) 354 5105
domainedetamhai.com
LIFE RESORT HOI AN
$$$
1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An,
Tel: (0510) 391 4555
life-resorts.com
MERCURE DANANG
$$$
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379
7777
mercure-danang.com
PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the white sands
of Bac My An beach close
to both Danang and Hoi An,
the welcoming and modern
Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities
and facilities for a dynamic
escape. Perfect for a family
holiday or a romantic beach
getaway.
THE NAM HAI
$$$$
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village,
Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394
0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive
swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant
spa on a lotus pond. Each
massive room has its own
espresso machine, pre
programmed iPod and both
indoor and outdoor showers.
VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH Resort

and Spa
Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510)
392 7040
victoriahotels.asia
Hue & Lang Co

ANGSANA LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnams South
Central Coast, Angsana Lang
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encompasses the resorts contemporary buildings and chic
interiors.
DUNA HOTEL
$
167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel:
(08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
www.cocobeach.net
paradise@cocobeach.net
HONG HOA HOTEL
$
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
Coco Beach Resort
58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, W. Ham Tien

Phan Thiet, Vietnam
+84-(0)62-3847111 / 2 / 3
travel
BANYAN TREE LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/
lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The
Banyan Tree offers privacy
and unparalleled exclusivity
with all-pool villas reflecting
the cultural and historical
legacy of past Vietnamese
dynastic periods.
LA RESIDENCE
$$$$
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383
7475
laresidencehue.com
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL
$
66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382
6736
hoangphuonghotel.com
Nha Trang
EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX
SENSES SPA
$$$$
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)
352 2222
sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/
destination
2.6 hectares of private
beachside gardens and
villastyle accommodation
furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool
bar and the signature Six
Senses Spa.
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT
$
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this
budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG
$$$$
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:
(058) 398 9666
mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG
$$$
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:
(058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with
154 guestrooms, all with
a terrace and sea view.
Complete with a pool, spa,
restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up
to 200 delegates.
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY Ninh

Van Bay
$$$$
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372
8222
Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.
sixsenses.com/resorts/
ninh-van-bay/destination
The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.
The location is stunning, on a
bay accessible only by boat.
SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL

AND SPA
$$$$
26 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058)
388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang
SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA
$$$
1214 Tran Phu, Nha Trang,
Tel: (058) 382 0999
sunrisenhatrang.com.vn
WHALE ISLAND RESORT
$$
Tel: (058) 384 0501
whaleislandresort.com
Phan Thiet & Mui Ne

ALLEZ BOO BEACH Resort and
Spa
$$$$
8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
374 3777
allezboo.com
This resort offers exotic
Balistyle, thatched roof
honeymoon villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms,
fresh seafood, Vietnamese
cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing
and parasailing.
BLUE OCEAN
$$$$
384 7322
life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH
$$$$
384 7111
cocobeach.net
With charming wooden
bungalows, a private beach,
a swimming pool (both with
attached bars) and a French
restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who
opened it in 1995.
MIA RESORT MUI NE
$$$
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
PRINCESS DANNAM RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh,
Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222
princessannam.com
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,
Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria
chain, the thatchedroof

bungalows and family villas
are set in exotic gardens
with an infinity swimming
pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and
jacuzzi.
Phong Nha
Easy Tiger and Jungle Bar
$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail.
com
A hostel and street-front bar
all in one. Has a pleasant,
airy atmosphere in the bar
and restaurant area while
the 52 dorm beds four
beds to a room go for
US$8 (VND168,000) each a
night.
Ho Khanh's Homestay
$$
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
phong-nha-homestay.com
Pepper House
$
Tel: 01678 731560
pepperhouse-homestay.com
Phong Nha Farmstay
$$
Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers joint
has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool
out back and views overlooking paddy fields and
mountains. Rooms start at
VND600,000 for a twin or
double, with a family room
for five costing VND1.4 million a night.
Phong Nha Lake Resort
$$
Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo
Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052)
367 5999
phongnhalakehouse.com
Saigon - Phong Nha
$$$
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016
sgphongnhahotel@yahoo.
com.vn
Thanh Dat
$
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7328
thanhdatphongnha.com
Phu Quoc
BEACH CLUB RESORT
$$
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island
guesthouse featuring a
beachside restaurant, and
includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and
tours are easily arranged.
Discount rates during rainy
season.
CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua
Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang,
Tel: (077) 399 5895
centarahotelsresorts.com
LA VERANDA
$$$$
Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach,
Phu Quoc, Tel: (077) 398
2988
laverandaresorts.com
MANGO BAY
$$
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An ecofriendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.
Sapa
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
$$
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203
871946
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from
its bar restaurant, the Cat
Cat Guesthouse is paradise
at very reasonable rates.
The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log
fireplaces.
Topas Ecolodge
$$$
Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai
Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)
topasecolodge.com
With its panoramic views of
the surrounding mountains
and valley, Topas Ecolodge
is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and
quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains the
landscape, the fresh air and
the ethnic peoples. Guests
stay in private bungalows
with dinner served in a local
stilt house restaurant.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$
24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel:
0203 872404
topasecolodge.com
For the environmentally
conscientious, 25 individual
lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar
technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also
organises treks and bicycle
tours.
VICTORIA SAPA
$$$
Tel: 0203 871522
victoriahotels.asia
Vung Tau & Ho Tram

BINH AN VILLAGE
$$$$
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
CON DAO RESORT
$$
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con
Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064)
383 0939
condaoresort.vn
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND

SPA
$$$$
Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is
the ideal getaway from Ho
Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely
bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa
and two swimming pools.
HO TRAM SANCTUARY
$$$$
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come
with their own pool and have
direct access to the beach.
Extras include tennis courts,
a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.
REX HOTEL
$$
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
SIX SENSES CON DAO
$$$$
Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao
The Grand-Ho Tram Strip

Phuoc Thuan Commune,
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand - Ho Tram Strip
is Vietnams first large
scale integrated resort and
ultimately will include a
1,100-room five-star hotel,
a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting
space, an exclusive VIP area,
as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.
The first 541-room tower
of this development opened
in July 2013 with its casino
including 90 live tables and
614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room
tower is on track to open in
2015.
Travel Services Hanoi

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com
www.buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at
the service of all Vietnamese
and expatriate residents
in Vietnam offering easy,
hassle-free travel around
the world and in Vietnam,
with the highest standards
of customer care. This
premium Travel Agency
has been created to help
travelers select their destinations and organize their
trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and
ensure that all journeys are
enjoyable and successful.
BTA customizes leisure and
corporate travel plans while
offering a selected range of
small group tours.
EXOTISSIMO
66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3828 2150
www.exotissimo.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel
agency with an extensive
operational track record in
the Indochina region and
beyond. Providing up-market
services, Exotissimo brings
their clients close to culture
through personalised tours.
Also find travel desks at the
Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which
are open on weekends and
holidays.
HANDSPAN TRAVEL
78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3926 2828
www.handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers
with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular
and isolated locations in
Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable
and responsible tourism
initiatives. Also provides to
excursions to more wellworn destinations.
HG TRAVEL
47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
www.hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising
in small-group tours around
Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole
representative agent for
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities
in Africa www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines
(www.aa.com) and Turkish
Airlines (www.thy.com).
INDOCHINA LAND
61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2852
www.indochina-land.com
Indochina Land is a French
local travel agency for
travel
Travel Promos
Promotions of the Month
expatriates and tourists

who want to see northern
Vietnam in a personal and
tailored way. Think small
knowledgeable teams of
Vietnamese and French
who share their passion for
discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on
freedom, family, health trips
and classic home stays. They
will show you around Ha Giang, too.
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM
Images of Mango Bay on Phu Quoc Island
Furama Resort Danang

@ furamavietnam.com.vn
The oldest resort on the
strip is hooking Vietnamese
residents up with a steal rate
of VND1,995,000 net per
night, based on double or
triple occupancy. Youll have
free airport transfer on twonight stays and a food credit
of VND300,000 per day on
three-night stays, from May
5 until the end of August.
And of course youll get to
enjoy all the little blessings
of the Furamas little slice of
paradise.
Poolside BBQ Buffet

@ Pullman Danang Beach
Resort
pullman-danang.com
Every Wednesday and
Friday in May, get your grill
on poolside at the Azure
Beach Lounge for only
VND525,000 net. On offer
will be beef, pork, chicken,
seafood, salads, apps and
Liquid Nitrogen ice cream.
The mesmerising views
come complimentary.
Stay 3, Pay 2
@ Mango Bay Phu Quoc
mangobayphuquoc.com
Mango Bay Phu Quoc is
known for its relaxing vibe,
and in introducing their
Stay 3, Pay 2 package theyre
doing even more to keep
the days stretching before
you. From now until Oct.
31, book two nights starting
at VND1,260,000 net per
night and get the third free
working out to about half
the high seasons rates. Its

easy to get into the swing of
things at Mango Bay, with
nights sipping wine under
the starlit sky and days
spent by the isolated stretch
of beach the eco resort sits
on. Now theres no need to
shake up the routine when
the weekend ends.
Staycation
@ Mvenpick Saigon
moevenpick-saigon.com
This month, Mvenpick
Saigon is opening itself to
Saigonites and anyone
really who fancies a neat
little weekend getaway
in the city. Stay over on
Saturday or Sunday for a
VND2.9 million++ rate,
including accommodation in
a luxurious room, breakfast,
the Seafood Night buffet, two
signature cocktails at Slate
and 20 percent off on all spa
treatment at Kinetic Wellness
Studio.
was great, but it seems

Ascotts future is bright.
Novotel Nha Trang

@ novotel-nhatrang.com
Summers just around the
corner, and the Novotel Nha
Trang knows they dont have
to do much to entice you
to come visit but theyre
doing it anyway. Book a stay
from now until Sep. 30
and make sure you book it
before May 31 and youll
come away with a 25 percent
super saver discount, and
use of the sauna and steam
bath if its not quite hot
enough.
While youre there (at least
for this month), wander into
Vous Spa and enjoy a worldclass two-hour massage for
only VND1,190,000 net or
any treatment from 9am to
1pm for 50 percent off, as
long as you book a day in
advance.
Ascott Turns 30
Dulich Deluxe Summer
@ the-ascott.com/30years
The Ascott Limiteds luxury
serviced residences have
come a long way from their
start 30 years back, and in
commemoration of this
anniversary theyd like to
share in their progress. So log
in, online members, and get
30 percent off Ascotts best
rates for over 30 countries
until Dec. 31, and Link
Club members, get used to
30 percent breaks off your
redemption points between
now and Sep. 30. The past
@ facebook.com/dulichdeluxe
Ngo Vy, owner of NTTV
Travel, used to say, [We
offer] affordable prices,
but NTTV Travel does not
compromise on quality.
One thing those who book a
hotel from now through Sep.
30 on the site will find they
do compromise on is price.
Book one of its hundreds of
four and five-star hotels in
this period and youll find
yourself reaping 15 percentoff savings, on any quality of
travel you decide on.
57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba

Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
www.intrepidtravel.com/
vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is
an international travel company operating in Vietnam
since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks
and small group adventures.
With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid
focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City,
Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong
Bay, Sapa and beyond to get
you up close to Vietnams
people, cuisine, history and
culture.
SYRENA CRUISES
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 7214
www.syrenacruises.com
If youre thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while
enjoying luxury comfort,
Syrena Cruises could be the
quencher youre looking for.
Forget drinking games and
backpackers by relaxing on
one of the two wooden boats
from the fleet. Alone, as a
couple or with a group, 34
luxurious cabins and suites
are all ready for action. All
you have to do is decide on
how long you want to holiday for.
Travel Services Elsewhere

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY
70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702;
157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi
Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827
9170
www.buffalotours.com
This premium travel agency
helps travelers select their
destinations and organize
their trips. From corporate
travel to small group tours,
explore the world or Vietnam.
EXOTISSIMO
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)
3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotissimo.com
A reliable and experienced
travel company operating
through Southeast Asia,
Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the
region, many including insights into culinary customs,
handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.
CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING

SERVICE
11th floor, 36 Bui Thi Xuan,
District 1, HCMC
Call center: 1900 5454 40
www.en.chudu24.com
info.en@chudu24.com
Chudu24.com - the locally
famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is
known for having the best
prices and reliable service.
If you are looking for great
local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com.
It has been the #1 Vietnam
hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.
FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

(08) 3824 7744
flightravelco.com
Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel
insurance, to corporate
companies, family and individual travelers.
FLY VIETNAM
flyvietnam.com
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel:
0904 193308
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui
Ne, Tel: 0908 400108
mantasailing.org
TERRAVERDE
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di,
Ward 4, Tan Binh District,
Tel: (08) 3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through
the Mekong Delta, trekking
in the highlands, or lazing in
a junk on Ha Long Bay all
while making a difference in
peoples lives then this
company will suit you well.
TU TRAVEL
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho
City, Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

169A De Tham, Q1, Tel:
01222 993585
vietnamvespaadventure.
com
Vespa Adventure offers multiday tours of southern and
coastal Vietnam on the back
of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable
biodiesel. English-speaking
tour guides lead the way.
Hanoi
Recalling Hanoi // the promotions // book buff // the alchemist // the therapist //
Medical buff // student eye
Photo by nick ross
hanoi
old quarter
Bars & Clubs / Cafes / Clothing & Accessories / Crafts & Furniture / Eat / Fitness & Yoga /
Groceries & Liquor / Hairdressers & Salons
Bars & Clubs

CHEEKY QUARTER
LATE NIGHT LOCAL

1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
01679 647254
8pm to late
Last building on the right
before Hang Buom, this
popular with the French
(and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has
the same Old Quarter vibe;
small, cosy and personal
with funky twists and an
awesome logo. Spread over
two floors with good tunes,
drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till
late. Also does tasty paninis
into the early hours.
DRAGONFLY
DANCEHALL LOUNGE
15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 4926 2177
11am to late
One of the better venues in
the Old Quarter for dancing
on the weekends. Although
crammed into a small space,
cheap drinks and a mix of
chart chits makes Dragonfly
the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident
looking to get up on the
dance floor. If you dont feel
like dancing, relax upstairs
with shisha and friends with
one of the two lounges on
the second floor. The sister
venue on Phung Hung has a
bigger menu and an earlier
opening hour (11am instead
of 6pm) but still keeps with
the shisha, pool table and
dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.
FATCAT BAR
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

0986 495211
linkhanoi.com
4pm to late
Straddling Bia Hoi Corner
and the cobblestoned end
of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a
small establishment from the
minds behind the party and
event organisers, LinkHanoi.
The bar has tables filling the
first floor and spilling onto
the sidewalk as well as a
small loft area for lounging.
Nightly cocktail specials,
reasonable bottles deals
starting at VND500,000 and
a DJ on the decks make up
the mix.
FUNKY BUDDHA
ELECTRO LOUNGE
(04) 3292 7614
8pm to late
HAIR OF THE DOG
LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE

32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
0947 893232
10am to late
HALF MAN HALF NOODLE
LATE DIVE BAR

62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3926 1943
3pm to late
IRISH WOLFHOUND
IRISH PUB
4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821
irishwolfhoundpub.com
8am to 2am
The open-air watering hole
with seating on the pavement
is a great spot to enjoy a tall
dark stout or light pilsner at
anytime, day or night. What it
lacks in gaudy decorations,
it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and
billiards on the third floor.
Has a decent food menu and
even better pizzas.
LA BOMBA LATINA
LATIN BAR
46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: 0917 245155
LE PUB
BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL
RESTOBAR
25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 2104
7am to midnight
Dark red walls and even
darker brown seating run
through the homely and
casual Le Pub, one of the few
bars in town with a regular
stream of clientele. A long
list of imported beer, Tiger
draft, a decent international
cum Vietnamese food menu,
happy hour specials and live
sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets
involved in the local community through regular events.
MAOS RED LOUNGE
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

(04) 3926 3104
spite being one of the oldest

pubs in the city, this staple
watering hole on Bao Khanh
continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi
has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals
and expats who find solace
in the nightly conversations
at the long bar, billiards and
live football matches.
ROCKSTORE
LIVE MUSIC BAR
01653 336087
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock
Cafe without the stigma and
the expensive prices. Nightly
live music or DJing events
are coupled with creative
decor, a selection of Belgian
Beer and a food menu.
SPY BAR
HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802
TEMPLE BAR
NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR

Tel: (04) 6675 7908
TET BAR
LATE-NIGHT BAR
2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 3050
THE SPOT
LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE

(04) 3935 1874
8am to midnight
Cafes
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi
in 2009. Joma contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3825 0216
7am to 8pm
MOCA CAFE
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
(04) 3825 6334
8am to 10pm
Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly
location gives Moca a large
amount of guidebook-driven
clientele. But dont let this put
you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good
WiFi and some of the best
coffee in town makes this
a great spot to while away
a couple of hours. The food
menu mixes Vietnamese fare
with sandwiches, western
and pan-Asian mains.
PUKU
INTERNATIONAL CAFE
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem
joma.biz
Housed in a two-storey converted, colonial-era villa, the
concept of the third Joma is
the same as at its two other
cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter,
and a great selection of
sandwiches, bagels, salads,
cakes, ice-cream and tea.
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745
Open 24 hours
This spacious spot on food
street is open around the
clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along
with more eclectic Irish
nachos, cottage pies and
pan-Asian fare. Upstairs
is fit for social gatherings
and live music while the nosmoking downstairs space
is filled with people working
and socialising. Serves as
community centre, catering
both to ravenous backpackers whove just arrived off
the night train from Sapa and
locals looking to meet up.
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
THE CART
CAFE PHO CO
COFFEE SHOP WITH A VIEW

Back of 11 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8153
Joma
POLITE PUB
LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3825 0959
5pm to 2am
A bit musty and jaded, de-
COFFEE/BAKERY
222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 3388
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938
2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small a cozy caf hidden
on the quietest of Hanoian
streets. Serves and delivers
tasty baguettes, homemade
juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery
service is quick and reliable,
which makes this lunchtime
favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
Clothing & Accessories

BOO SKATESHOP
SKATESHOP
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 1147
Booskateshop.com
CONTRABAND
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9891
Launched in Hanoi in 2007,
Contraband targets young
hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look
after making them ideal for
work and travel. New styles
are introduced each month
with limited production runs,
offering a sense of exclusivity.
LAtelier
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 2419
ateliervietnam.com
The downtown store of this
well-known chic boutique.
Stocks womens wear,
leather bags, shoes and
handicrafts. Offers both
ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem.
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital has seen
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
SONG
ECO-STYLE VIETNAMESE
27 Pho Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 8733
asiasongdesign.com
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3828 6965
This shops motto Western
sizes, Vietnamese prices,
says it all. While mostly retailing womens separates
in soft cotton jersey and
linen, the store also carries a range of accessories
like embroidered canvas
totes and printed tees. Has
a good selection of unique
mens shirts.
THREE TREES
JEWELLERY
(04) 3928 8725
Crafts & Furniture

MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang
Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
hanoi
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 2645
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital will see
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
CAFE DE PARIS
FRENCH BISTRO
12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327
cafedeparis-hanoi.com
8am to 11pm
Thanks to its original tiled
floor, cast iron backed
chairs and wall-hung black
and white photography,
there is something decidedly
charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar.
Serving up a simple menu
of snacks such as quiche
Lorraine, Paris beurre and
croque monsieur, there is
also a selection of classic
but unpretentious French
mains. Has a daily specials
board and a decent range
of pizzas.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
Tel: (04) 3993 1399
10am to 10.30pm
A slither of a joint serving
up the same fare that the
lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an
international version of the
mighty curry they even
sell pork and beef here the
menu keeps to the northern
part of the subcontinent with
masala, dopiaza, korma and
the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a
good range of breads and
tandoor-cooked kebabs.
GREEN MANGO
WESTERN / VIETNAMESE
18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9916
greenmango.vn
7.30am to 11.30pm
GREEN TANGERINE
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

(04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
10am to 11pm daily
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets
you as you walk into this
French era-built villa that
houses the main section of
this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing
mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine,
blended in with Vietnamese
ingredients and cooking
styles, the resultant fare
has had customers coming
back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids
menu is also available, as is a
wine list focusing mainly on
French wines.
LITTLE HANOI
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 8333
7.30am to 11pm
MEDITERRANEO
PAN-ITALIAN
(04) 3826 6288
10am to 11pm
This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral
serves all the traditional
Italian fare you could need
homemade mozzarella
and fresh pasta, spinach
and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
boards, soups, salads and
fish. Throw in an extensive
wine list, a traditional wood
fire oven and a balcony spot
looking over Hanois trendy
caf scene and youre onto
a winner.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926
0639
10am to midnight
Little India
INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE

32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 1859
littleindianhn@gmail.com
LA RESTAURANT
25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 8933
8am to 10pm
The complimentary warm
bread with rosemary is
reason enough to visit this
homely spot featuring hearty
lentil and black bean soups,
along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef
tenderloin or tofu with chilli
and mushrooms. We arent
quite sure why the Miele
Guide nominated it as one of
Asias finest restaurants as
service is lackadaisical and
tables could use candles to
improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately
tasty dishes more than make
up for any quips.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
(04) 3828 9052
8am to 11pm
A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed caf
and bar with an extensive
list of reliable cuisine. Tapas
are available, as well as full
courses such as veal, and
duck with currant sauce.
Known for its good, European-style coffee and firstfloor terrace area with views
over the cathedral. Has a
second garden restaurant
on Xuan Dieu.
MILLENIUM
PAN-FRENCH
11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10pm
Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium
restaurant is the minimal
and chic result of a Caf Des
Arts makeover. The streets
new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking
goes over two floors and
has a welcome and inviting
three-level outdoor terrace
high up amid the concrete
and cables of the Old Quarter.
NAMASTE HANOI
PAN-INDIAN
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 3935 2400
namastehanoi.com
11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10.30pm
The latest newcomer to the
Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in
dishes from both northern
and southern India using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you
between VND150,000 and
VND300,000 and everything
is there, from curries and
breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or
out with a free delivery.
OLD HANOI
GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 8337
10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm
Gordon Ramsay once filmed
a show at this restaurant in
a renovated French villa and
now the ribs carry his namesake. But its the twist on old
world favourites, think fried

snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo,
in a casually elegant setting
that make this spot near
the train tracks standout.
Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and
check the schedule for live
traditional music.
PROVECHO
TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL

0912 223966
The successor of My Burger
My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny,
multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style,
chargrilled burgers from
around VND50,000 with a
range of additional toppings
including jalapeno peppers,
smoked bacon, mushrooms,
cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also
has a good range of Tex-Mex
fare, a number of pan-Asian
dishes and a decent delivery
service.
SOUTHGATE
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 1979
southgatehanoi.com
THE KAFE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 6245
thekafe.vn
Spacious, casual, energetic
and beautifully designed, The
KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy
the modern urban diner.
Preparing fresh food and
drinks that show respect to
natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe,
this caf-cum-restaurant is
a popular choice for Hanois
metrosexual community.
THE MOOSE AND ROO
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,
Tel:(04) 3200 1289
Contemporary Australian
and Canadian comfort food
in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.
Best known for their Scotch
egg, poutine and burgers.
Clever changing imagery on
the walls.
in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesnt focus on

faux meat. Features a wide
range of juices and shakes
in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has
Asian favourites like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu
and Thai glass noodle salad,
along with some falafel and
western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will
find something to try on this
menu.
THE LOFT STOP CAF
FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES

11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
8am to 11pm
SPICE
CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT

(04) 3926 0580
TANDOOR
PAN-INDIAN
(04) 3824 5359
11am to 10.30pm
A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising
in Northern Indian cuisine.
Has an indoor and upstairs,
white tablecloth aircon
area with a more casual
dining and bar space out
front. Does excellent kebabs
served from an authentic
tandoor oven as well as the
full range of mainly North
Indian curries. Also has a
branch in Saigon and does
excellent set lunches.
ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAF

16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 0253
Fitness & Yoga

ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong
Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3923 0253
An international Yoga studio
providing classes across a
variety of levels and styles,
including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative
yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also
have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats,
books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.
Groceries & Liquor

BACCHUS CORNER
TAMARIND
CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN
(04) 3926 0580
5.30am to 10.30pm
Perhaps the only restaurant
WINE RETAILER
1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 1393
Part of the Tan Khoa chain,
the largest liquor and wine
distributor in the country,
the walls here are lined with
a decent selection of wines,

pleasantly arrayed and back
lit. Besides their selection of
new and old world wines
Helpful staff and free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 7666
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams
ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of
the greatest wines from the
best wine-growing regions
on the planet. The portfolio
mixes the best of both old
and new world wines.
Hairdressers & Salons

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
Supermarkets
Big C Supermarket
222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau
Giay
Citimart Hanoi Towers

49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem
Citimart Vincom Towers

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba
Trung
Fivimart
210 Tran Quang Khai,
Hoan Kiem
10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh
671 Hong Hoa Tham,
Ba Dinh
71 Nguyen Chi Thanh,
Dong Da
51 Xun Dieu, Tay Ho
93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
Online shopping: www.
fivimart.com.vn
Hanoi Star Supermarket

36 Cat Linh, Dong Da
Intimex
22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan
Kiem
131-135 Hao Nam, Dong
Da
17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba
Trung
27 Huynh Thuc Khang,
Dong Da
Metro
126 Tam Trinh, Yen So,
Hoang Mai
Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue,
Tu Liem
Recalling Hanoi
Part One
andscape is entangled with

history and peoples lives. No
matter how young we are or what
social position we have, we all
have stories to tell.
Recalling Hanoi is my vision of Hanoi,
a tapestry weaved out of portraits,
peoples stories and the urban landscape
that hosts them.

I ask people living in the city to tell
me about a place in Hanoi that holds
memories. It can be about anything a
personal story intertwined with history; a
great event; everyday little stories that our
lives are made of. These stories, along with
the photographs of the storyteller and the
location, provide depth.

Through this collection I am attempting
to create an intimate, multi-layered
portrait of this city through its collective
memory. The hope is that the audience will
connect to other peoples lives and also
to their own memories in an attempt to
understand this beautiful city.
Thi Thin
B52
Location: ho B52, Hoang Hoa Tham
It was 1972 and I was 23 years old,
working for a factory producing cotton
shoes for soldiers in Ngoc Ha. The lake
was surrounded by single-storey houses
at that time. On the other side of the lake,
were the flower gardens of Ngoc Ha
famous for supplying flowers to Hanoi.
Five or six air-raid shelters were built by
the local authorities to protect the people
every time the sirens sounded the arrival
of American bombers. Each bunker had a
cement roof with steel in the middle.
The day before the airplane came
down, everything was normal. I woke up
at 5.30am, cycled to the factory at 6am
and worked until 2pm. We had lunch
at the factory: noodles, a little bit of

meat and vegetables. I came back home
in the afternoon to prepare dinner for
my husband and me. Everyday we had
dinner together.
That night, I was sleeping when I heard
the air-raid siren. Suddenly, everybody
was rushing to the shelters. It was very
dark inside I could hardly recognise
the person right next to me. After about
ten minutes, I heard from above the
rumble and the roar of planes mixed
with the sound of flack cannons from
the ground. Half an hour later, when it
seemed to be quiet, we started to climb
back out. Right in front of my eyes, an
enormous ball of fire was burning in

the middle of the lake. It was part of a
downed plane, the petrol in the engine
was burning and lit up the sky. Some
other pieces of the airplane had been torn
off and fell in the quarters next to ours
two people died from the falling debris.
We stood there for a while observing the
scene, then quietly walked home. The
overall atmosphere was tense; wed lived
through so many years of the war, but
this was the first time wed witnessed it
with our own eyes.
It has been 45 years since I lived in the
house in front of this lake.
hanoi
By Julie Vola
Viet Anh
The Skate Shop

Location: Van Phuc
When we were living in the Czech
Republic, my brother and I were really
into skateboarding. Coming back to
Vietnam, we used to skate in Lenin
Park every day until late. People would
gather to watch us, it was energising.
Our generation formed the roots of
skateboarding in Hanoi.
Western culture was starting to come
into Vietnam at the time, with MTV, hip
hop and skateboarding, but there was
nowhere to buy skateboarding clothes.
We began our business online at home.
This proved hard so we decided to open a
shop. That shop changed my life.
The youngsters welcomed our style.
The shop was only 20sqm and we
decorated it ourselves. It was next to
Hanoi Amsterdam High School right

beside the entrance there were houses that
ran all along the street. A few years ago
they destroyed all the houses and now
its just pavements. The street looks so
different now.
After two years we had problems.
The owners saw we were successful, so
they kicked us out. They had relatives
move in and open a similar shop. It was
the first blow. It was very hard. We were
quite naive. Luckily we found a location
across the street and were able to keep the
business.
At the beginning we were more
skateboarders than businessmen, often
closing the shop for a few hours each day
to go and skate. We became well-known
and attracting lots of attention, especially

from the girls, which we liked when we
were young.
We did everything ourselves. Every
day I would go around Hanoi, especially
to the shops called Made in Vietnam. I
knew the value of things and could find
good products to make a profit. Its an
interesting experience; sometimes you
find great products you never imagined,
like finding treasure or going fishing.
Now people come to me to sell their
products, I dont have to go fishing
anymore.
Parts of Julie Volas work, Recalling Hanoi,
will be serialised in Word over the coming
months. For more information email juls.
vola@gmail.com
hanoi
LESPACE
hoan kiem
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

Tel: (04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com
Bars & Nightclubs / Cafes / Cinemas / Clubs & Societies / Eat /

Classes / Groceries & Liquor
PARIS DELI
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Lon
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Bi
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Triu
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Hu
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PHUC TAN
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan
Kiem
the room and a barbecue until the early hours theres

quite an atmosphere in this
pleasant watering hole.
RELAX BAR
HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem
ROOFTOP
MODEL CLUB
Zone 17
GAMES RESTOBAR
104 Bach Dang, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: 0906 210212
Tin
Trn
Hn
g
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L Vn H u
SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B
Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3946 1901
8am to midnight
TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE
ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem
tadioto.com
Located close to the Opera
House, this alternative, arty
bar is garnished in red and
white on the outside, with
warm brown and tones of
blue on the inside. Creating
an atmosphere merging
Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary
artwork lines the walls at
the latest incarnation of this
well-known and well-loved
space.
BAMBOO BAR
17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem
The first bar in what will
eventually (hopefully) be a
zone dedicated to bars and
restaurants. A pool table, a
square bar in the middle of
CAF / BOULANGERIE
6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269
7.30am to 11pm
Time has been good to this
airy, bistro-style caf and
patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital,
despite its prime location
prices remain reasonable
espresso-style coffees cost
around VND40,000 and
the cakes and croissants
are moreish. Also does filled
baguettes and a larger cafcum-restaurant menu. Has a
second establishment at 13
Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
Nguy
n Du
FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
6282 5555
Hoteldelopera.com
7am to 2am
La Fe Verte (or the Green
Fairy) is a metaphor for the
decadence of another age,
an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The
signature bar of the Hotel de
lOpra Hanoi where, just as
in Paris at the dawn of the
20th century, the making
of an evening drink a lavish
event of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a
lounge atmosphere, great
music and ultra-contemporary interior design combine
to bring a genuine sense of
occasion to after-dark in the
capital.
CATWALK BAR
45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung
8pm to late
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LA FE VERTE
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Thi
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WILD WEST THEME BAR

98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822
ng
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Tr
17 COWBOYS
L Thi T
Bars & Nightclubs
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PLAY GAMING LOUNGE
Cu G
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Ph
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Tri Ph
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HOAN KIEM
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Eat
Cafes
CIAO CAF
RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3934 1494
7am to 11pm
A stones throw from the
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
this Saigonese franchise
tries its hand with a variety
of different western dishes
at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and
a steady, young Vietnamese
crowd, the establishment is
a great place to squash a
sandwich or bowl of pasta
and people watch. Oh, and
they also do coffee, too.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,
Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3825 0216
7am to 8pm
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
TWITTER BEANS COFFEE

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760
twitterbeanscoffee.com
Cinemas
CINEMATHEQUE
ARTS CINEMA
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648
Not a movie theatre per se,
but a private film club that
charges a membership fee in
return for entrance to a wide
selection of movies, new and
old. The management has
an eclectic taste and shows
films from all over the world.
Clubs & Societies

AMERICAN CLUB
EVENT SPACE
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 1850
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE

SOCIETY (HITS)
THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com
AL FRESCOS
23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
ANGELINA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
11.30am to 2.30pm and
6.30am to late (restaurant)
11am to 2am (bar)
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts
of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all
for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar
and an a la carte menu, with
a creative selection of fruit
caipirinhas on hand to wash
it all down. The prices arent
for anyone on a budget, but
the amount and quality of
meat is more than worth
cost.
CAF LAUTREC
MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
6282 5555
6am to 10pm
Featuring both -la-carte
and buffet dining as well
as an innovative Sunday
brunch, this namesake of the
French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a
mixture of international and
Mediterranean-style fare.
Has an extensive wine list
to match the cuisine, which
is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired
environment.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
Tel: (04) 3824 7280
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully
designed space over three
floors. Already with venues

in Saigon and Bangkok, the
essence of this popular
chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay, but everything
from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to
head to El Gaucho.
JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388
alfrescogroup.com
9.30am to midnight
Then newest venture from
the team behind Jaspas
and Pepperonis is an all-day
eating and drinking lounge fit
for all occasions. It has three
floors for different vibes
lounge bar, restaurant and
boardroom but fine imported steads can be found
on each, as well as seafood
and a huge wine list. A popular venue.
JASPAS
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba
Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
6.30am to midnight
Recently refurbished, the
Australian-influenced Jaspas is known for its attentive
service, tasty food and large
portions. A place with something for everyone, it has
proved itself to be popular
with both the western and
Asian expat communities
who come back again and
again. The comprehensive
menu is a fusion of western
and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is
mainly New World. Also has
a spacious bar and lounge
area that stays open late for
all the live sport.
LA BADIANE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3942 4509
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to
10pm. Closed Sunday night.
A white-washed, colonial
era villa replete with period
wooden shutters greets you
as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.
Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or
take to the leafy covered
terrace out back with its
walls lined with art and photography from 21st century
Hanoi. The menu here mixes
modern Gallic cuisine with a
touch of Mediterranean and
Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an
extensive wine list and an
excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.
hanoi
LE BEAULIEU
The Promotions
CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15
Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3826 6919
6am to 10am, 11.30am
to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to
10.30pm
Promotions of the Month
LUNO DAUTUNNO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823
7338
11am to 11pm
This old-favourite Italian
uses traditional wood ovens
to prepare some of the citys
finest pizzas, which range
from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.
Set inside a large, thoughtful
space seasoned chefs also
make fresh pastas, soups
and cheeses the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights
make it well worth a visit, as
does the large wine list and
choice of desserts.
Post Work Wind Down

There are few things better than a
glass of wine after a hectic work day.
At A La Folie Restaurant, they see
your glass of wine and raise you
a bottle. With every bottle of wine
purchased, guests will be treated
to a complimentary cold cut platter
from 5pm to 7pm, Tuesdays through
Sundays throughout the month of
May. Select a red or white from the
restaurants brand new wine list, with
bottles starting from VND460,000.
A La Folie Restaurant is located at 63
Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung
NINETEEN 11
Sheraton Summer
Sheraton Hanoi Hotel is ringing in
the summer season with great deals
on food and drink. At Hemispheres
Restaurant, get a taste of Brazil thanks
to the famous national BBQ speciality
Churrasco, with a selection of grilled
beef, chicken, lamb or seafood. Its a
perfect way to spice up the beginning
of summer in true style.
Sheraton Hanoi Hotel is located at K5
Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho and
online at Sheraton.com/hanoi
Exotissimo Getaway Deals

Luxury travel company Exotissimo
is making getaways a little bit easier,
with big deals on travel packages
throughout May.
Beginning May 4, bring the entire
family to Halong Bay with threeday, two-night Ao Co cruises from
VND21,187,000 per family of two
adults and two children. Journey
to Sapas premiere Topas Ecolodge
for three-day, two-night getaways
from VND7,076,000 per person,
or venture south to Victoria Hoi
An Beach Resort and enjoy a four,
pay three accommodation deal for
VND4,198,000 per night on deluxe
rooms.
Go abroad for less with summer
promotions to Thailand and
Myanmar. From May 1, head to Koh
Samui, Thailand with family packages
starting from 14,099,000 per family.
Or, get away to exotic Myanmar, with
four day, three night stays in Green
Season Bagan from VND7,455,000 per
person.
Find more information on Exotissimo
luxury travel deals at exotissimo.com, or
visit their location in Hanoi at 66A Tran
Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem
Cinco de Mayo at the Movenpick
Daewoo Delights
Hanoi Daewoo Hotel is making
May a little bit more delicious
with their fantastic deals on food
and drink this month. At Caf
Promenade, the tastes of summer are
that much better with the Executive
Power Lunch Buffet with 25 percent
discounts on Saturdays and Sundays
throughout the month. EDO
Japanese Restaurant is unveiling a
May exclusive Kamameshi menu,
featuring the traditional Japanese
iron pot rice dish alongside other
Japanese cuisine favourites.
Hanoi Daewoo Hotel is located at
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh. Find more
information online at daewoohotel.com
Fortuna Summer
Fortuna Hotel welcomes the warm
weather of the summer months with
great deals on food and drink at
their many restaurants.
Dim Sum Mania continues in
May at May Man Restaurant
with all-you-can-eat dim sum
for VND420,000++ per adult and
VND210,000++ per child. Choose
from 80 varieties of these delicious
bite size delights.
Emperor Japanese Cuisine is a
perfect spot for those looking for
something lighter for their lunch
hour. Diners can enjoy all-you-caneat dining experiences at Emperor
from 11am to 2pm daily excluding
Sundays. Weekdays also include an
eat three, pay two dining deal.
Tiffin Restaurant is the perfect
stop for late night diners, with
special late night bites deals from

10pm to 3am. Try their selection of
frog dishes, including frog congee
and stir-fried frog with ginger.
Fortuna Hotel is located at 6B Lang
Ha, Ba Dinh. Find more information
online at fortuna.vn
Mothers Day at Melia

Melia Hotel is celebrating that lovely
lady in your life with special treats
and deals at El Patio Restaurant. On
Sunday, May 11, El Patio promises
their delectable selection of local
and international fair, along with a
specially prepared door gift for all
moms. The lunch buffet is priced at
VND905,000++ per adult with a free
flow of house wine, draught beer,
sparkling wine and sangria cocktails.
Melia Hotel is located at 44B Ly
Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem
May with Movenpick

Movenpick Hotel has a lot to
celebrate throughout the month
of May at each of their luxurious
dining spots. Celebrate Cinco de
Mayo at Mangosteen Restaurant
one day early on Sunday, May 4
with a spectacular lineup of Mexican
dishes and drinks. Sip your margarita
alongside your ceviche de camarones,
jalapeno poppers or churro while the
kids try their hand at the pinata. And
for VND900,000++ per person for a
full day of fun not to mention the
discounts for kids its a perfect way
to spend a day with the whole family.
Movenpick Hotel is locted at 83 Ly
Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang
3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm
PANE E VINO
PAN-ITALIAN
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
8am to 10.30pm
Just a stroll away from the
Hanoi Opera House and
Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart
of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves
up authentic Italian food
and has done for as long as
anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated,
oven fresh pizzas and large
variety of pasta and salad
dishes look forward to fine
food done well at this eatery
that has the feel of Europe.
Huge wine lists, friendly staff
and a loveable owner.
PRESS CLUB
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To,
0888
hanoi-pressclub.com
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm
to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday
lunch
Wooden flooring, paneling
and bold but subtle colours
pervade this traditional but
contemporary, fine-dining
70-seater venue close to
the Opera House. Serving
up quality cuisine for over
a decade, Press Club boasts
a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine
room, a library and a vast
selection of cigars, all in an
elegant atmosphere. Does
four excellent wine pairing menus, put together
through the aid of the Press
Clubs extensive new and old
world wine list. Also hosts a
hanoi
popular first-Friday-of-themonth party.
SATINE
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414
hoteldelopera.com
bagels. Starting in Laos in

1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
tay ho
Arts / Bars & Clubs / Book Shops / Cafes / Clothing / Cooking Classes /
Crafts & Furniture / Cycling & Bicycle Rentals / Eat / Fitness & Yoga /
Groceries, Liquor & Kitchen Products / Medical & Dental / Expat Services
Wrap & Roll

5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza,
24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: (04) 3824 3718
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and
bright pastel colours of
Wrap n Roll are just part
of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand
which is all about spring rolls
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with
two restaurants in Hanoi
the second in Royal City.
n
A n Dng V g
TAY HO
DISTRICT
Book Shops
Lc
Lo
ng
Qu
n
g
n
g V
Ngu
yn
Ho
ng
Tn
Xu
c Long Qun
WINE RETAILER
10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04)
3943 7226
Ni
WORK ROOM FOUR
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

workrmfour@gmail.com
workrmfour.tumblr.com
A place to work. A space to
create. Somewhere to see
something new. Work Room
Four is pulling together the
threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas,
exhibitions, workshops,
artist studios, courses, contacts and events.
Bars & Clubs

88 LOUNGE
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 8029
88group.vn
5pm to late
A wine bar with a difference,
this addition to the watering
hole scene in West Lake
mixes contemporary design,
black ceilings, subtle lighting
and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine
lists in town. Not surprisingly
it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.
LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: 01633 166170
hanoirockcity.com
5pm to midnight
Thanh
Thm
g
Ho
Bi
N guyn Phong S c
Arts
HANOI ROCK CITY

RED APRON
With a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an

upstairs space dedicated to
live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the
only venue in the capital
of its kind. Has weekly live
events featuring bands both
from Vietnam and overseas
established and up and
coming. Email jimihendrix@
hanoirockcity.com for more
information or check out
their page on Facebook.
HOUSE OF SON TINH
LIQUOR LOUNGE
(04) 3718 6377
sontinh.com
8am to 11.30pm
As part of the Highway 4
group, which now has its
offices in the establishments upstairs areas, this
bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish
furnishings is famed for its
luxurious rice wine liquors
and newly created cocktail
class. Does regular events
on the first floor and also
has a creative Vietnamese
food menu based on cuisine
sold at other restaurants in
the chain.
RED RIVER TEA ROOM
LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho
Open daily from 2pm.
Located on the lakeside lane
just below Xuan Dieu, this
warm, quiet and friendly
Ph
Qun Th
Phan
nh P
h n g
nh
WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
This Italian favourite with a
huge food menu also has a
huge for-retail wine list that
is 100 percent focused on
fine wines and liquors from
Italy. Owner Hoang has great
knowledge of Italian wine and
a passion to match, which is
sure to land you with the best
wine for any occasion.
Th
n
Y
PANE E VINO WINE SHOP
Tm
VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET
22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
hi
Ng
INTIMEX
DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3943 1009
Hanoigourmet.com
The long-running Hanoi
Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and
artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a
look at the deli and sit down
for a light snack.
HANOI GOURMET
oa
Ho
n
FIVIMART
SUPERMARKET
27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
Ho
n
Hong Quc Vit
WINE RETAILER
Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3941 2789
Daloc.vn
u
Di
u
SUPERMARKET
Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers,
Tel: (04) 3934 2999
DA LOC
BOOKWORM TOO
u C
Groceries & Liquor

CITIMART
ers, cooked fresh to order,

Tracys is most famous for
their draft beers, claiming
to serve the coldest draft
beer in Hanoi, and always
in a frosted mug. For those
missing their dose of North
American sports, they play
all day via satellite on two
plasmas.
pub offers a selection of international and local beers,

wine, cocktails and a nice
view of West Lake. Serving
pies and pasties from The
Cart, Vietnamese food from
Dieus next door, or delivery
from nearby favorites. Nonsmoking, unpretentious,
dog-friendly.
TAY TAP
MEET-UP SPOT
100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6917
4pm to late
Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar
with two beers on tap as
well as wine, cocktails and
spirits on the shelves this
newcomer venue has a grill
menu catering to the tastes
of both East and West. For
those in search of a good
old-fashioned Sloppy Joe
or grilled cheese, youll be
glad to know the kitchen is
stocked to the ceiling with
comfort foods.
TRACYS PUB AND GRILL
SPORTS BAR/GRILL
40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel:
(04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
11am to 12am
This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the
main drag of Xuan Dieu is
perpetually crowded with
regulars drinking out front
on plastic stools. Notorious
for its mouth-watering burg-
NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS

1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay
Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
Cafes
COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
7am to 10pm
Finally the newest addition
to the Hanoi coffee scene
has opened a little closer to
town than the first outlet in
Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee
Bean is a multilevel, indoor/
outdoor caf overlooking
Westlake. With its LA coffee
and office feel, when you
walk in you might just forget
that youre in Westlake.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CHAIN
Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
7am to 11pm
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
COFFEE/BAKERY
43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6071
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
LA GRACE
ART CAFE & GALLERY

8B/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: 0912 666736
lagrace.com.vn
7.15am to 10pm
Located on a peaceful
street named after the famous painter, To Ngoc Van,
La Grace is a destination
for those who appreciate
lifes pleasures: drinks,
food, arts and sometimes
live music. Clean, comfortable and friendly, the venue
has a nice selection of
juices and smoothies and a
Vietnamese-cum-Japanese
food menu put together using organic vegetables. Set
lunches cost VND150,000,
and the caf also has strong
WiFi as well as separate nonsmoking and smoking areas.
SAINT HONORE
CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3933 2355
st.honorehn@gmail.com
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this
cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in
the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk
through the door. Serving
all day long, the downstairs
space is split into the bakery
on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the
other. The homely upstairs
lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.
Simple but tasty French and
international fare is served
at meal times.
SEGAFREDO
ITALIAN CAFE
(04) 3718 0212
segafredo.com.vn
7am to 11pm
Names of some of the
worlds greatest cities cover
the front wall of Segafredo,
an Italian cafe and eatery
serving up some of the best
espresso-based coffee in
town. Red and white decor,
lifestyle black and white coffee drinking images and an
open plan space make up
the mix. Besides the caffeinebased drinks, also does
granita, teas, shakes and
modern Italian fare ranging from panini and focaccia through to pizza, pasta,
salads and desserts.
TET DCOR CAF
ART CAF & ESPRESSO BAR

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay
Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
8am to 6pm, Tuesday to Sunday
Cloistered among the back
streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan
Dieu, TET Dcor Caf is a destination for those who appreciate
lifes pleasures: coffee, food, art
and music. Simple and unpretentious, the caf has an oldfashioned warmth and rustic
feel combined with unique and
inspiring art installations.
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small cozy caf and sandwich
bar hidden away in Nghi Tam
Village. Serves and delivers tasty
baguettes, homemade juices,
quiches, pies, muffins and cakes.
The delivery service is quick and
reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE

(THBC)
CAF / TAPAS BAR

44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
9am to 10pm
Tucked down an alleyway just
off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle
Collective is not just a place for
all bicycle lovers, but a caf that
also sells Spanish tapas served
up with gin & tonic, if the mood
so takes you. Organising bicycle
tours, running yoga sessions
and holding music concerts in
their upstairs cafe area, they
also sell, rent and fix bikes and
are an official supplier of TREK
and SURLY cycling equipment.
Eclectic? Not a chance!
Clothing
GEORGES FASHION BOUTIQUE
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6233
With new styles arriving in store
every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses,
shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported
fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from
petite to average to the generous
figure. Alterations and a madeto-measure service are available
at no extra cost.
LATELIER
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

3718 6758
ateliervietnam.com
Stocks womens wear, leather
bags, shoes and handicrafts.
This chic boutique offers both
ready-to-wear and made-to-fit
clothing.
Cooking Classes
HIDDEN HANOI
COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912
254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these
well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will
guide you through the secrets of
Vietnamese cooking in an open
air courtyard.
HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS

VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE
68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 848301
Crafts & Furniture

LA CASA
CONTEMPORARY DESIGN
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084
lacasavietnam.com.vn
A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other
household objects, this spot
has everything from beds and
bookshelves, to tableware and
silverware. The items are all
locally made by skilled artisans
from Hanoi and the surrounding
regions.
MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development nonprofit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories.
Styles vary from traditional to
patterned and Asian-inspired.
Founded in 2001 and with
outposts in several locations
around the region, the shop
employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an income and care for their families.
Cycling & Bicycle Rentals

DONS TAY HO
BICYCLE RENTALS
3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
Thang Long Cycling
CYCLING SHOP
152 Yen Hoa, Tay Ho, Tel: 0986
866538
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE

(THBC)
CYCLING COLLECTIVE
44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
Tucked down an alleyway just
off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle

Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of
TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but
also rents and fixes bicycles. To
add to the eclectic, community
spirit they also organise bicycle
tours, run yoga sessions, hold
music concerts in their upstairs
cafe area and run a great menu
of Spanish tapas served up, if
you so wish, with gin & tonic.
Quite a mix!
Eat
AL FRESCOS
3719 5322
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
DA PAOLO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai
Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317
11am to 11pm
This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to
the famed lawn chair and coconut caf on West Lake has
all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long
time former manager of Luna
DAutunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas
from VND120,000 and other
Italian delicacies. Open every
day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.
DALUVA
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
3718 5831
daluva.com
8am until late
A popular hang-out for expats
and trendy Vietnamese in the
Xuan Dieu area on West Lake.
This bar and restaurant offers
casual dining with a classy,
Middle-Eastern twist, as well as
wine, tapas, events and attractive dcor.
DONS TAY HO
CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
Monday to Friday, 10am to late.
Weekends 8am to late
This lake-facing venue with
its top floor Oyster Bar is the
work of charismatic Canadian
restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing
on comfort food done well, the
main restaurant menu includes
anything from wood-grilled rare
tuna steak with fragrant Chinese
black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such
as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with
crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range
of imported oysters and has an
extensive wine list.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and
preparation with great service
in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three
floors. Already with venues in
Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is
quality top grade meats off the
grill. Steak is the mainstay, but
everything from chicken, pork
and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting
and an extensive wine list and
thats another reason to head to
El Gaucho.
HALIA HANOI
SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY
INTERNATIONAL
3946 0121
thehalia.com
Monday Saturday 11am to
11pm. Closed on Sundays
A multi-floored venue with a bar
area and a refined dining space.
The menu includes Singaporean
specialities such as the shrimp
satay salad and the chilli crab
spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light
Asian flavours is also on offer.
Has an extensive wine list.
HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD

GRILL
CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD

Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to
10pm
The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering
both the Northern and Southern
hemispheres. Choose from Black
Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye,
Rump and Tenderloin grilled to
perfection. Prefer Seafood
no problem, Lobster, Oysters,
Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and
Crabs are all available for your
dining pleasure, as well as an
impressive array of wines by the
glass & bottle from our
Il Faro
ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN
Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 6327 1142
Hidden away in Cong Doan Hotel,
this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned by the same people
behind Mediterraneo serves up
an assortment of French, Spanish and Italian dishes in a pleasant, white-washed yet Italianinfluenced atmosphere.
J.A.F.A.
INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3758 2400
7am to 11pm
One of the larger and more com-
hanoi
Book Buff
The Epicureans
From joy to pleasure to epicureans, this month Bookworms Truong gets philosophical
e consider ourselves fortunate

because one of our avid readers
hands over back copies of the
New York Review of Books for us
to peruse and then donate to the literature
faculties of local universities. Whenever
some hit Bookworm, theres a mad scrabble
to get to them first. In the January 2013
edition one of the staff brought an essay by
author Zadie Smith to everyones attention.
Zadie was pondering how to distinguish
between joy and pleasure, and came to the
conclusion that, after recalling the six times in
her life that she has experienced joy that it is
something that has very little real pleasure in
it. And yet if it hadnt happened at all, at least
once, how would we live?
She admits that joy has a habit of
multiplying dangerously, with children being
the infamous example. Zadie says her child
at three is mostly a joy, which means in fact
the girl gives her parents not much pleasure
at all, but rather that strange admixture of
terror, pain, and delight that Zadie has come
to recognize as joy.
Zadie Smith is an exceptional novelist,
even more, an exceptional essayist and her
book, Changing My Mind: Occasional Essays,
covers a wide variety of topics including
personal reflections, political observations, the
profundities of everyday life and reflections
on a heartbreaking trip to Liberia.
Once youre hooked by the magic of
Smiths use of words, you may even subscribe
to the monthly book review that kick-started
this article and in which she is an occasional
essayist.
Slattery points out that those who confuse

Epicurus with gourmands and even gluttony
are on the wrong track. He argues that
Epicurean philosophy counsels that genuine
happiness comes from the quieting of desire
from less, not more.
Through his research and investigative
travels, Slattery points out that had followers
of Epicurus not been fiercely muted by
early Christian hierarchies, then billions of
us today would probably fill in our census
details as being Epicureans. He also suggests
that an Epicurean mindset would help us
rethink our materialistic ways and face the
challenges of man-made climate change.
We may be able to rein in unsustainable
development.
Karl Marx took his philosophical bearings
from Epicurus and prefaced him in his
doctoral thesis. He saw himself as Epicurus
the Revolutionary and now that were born
again Epicureans, we have decided to have
another look at Karl, who like a lot of other
revolutionary thinkers, has been maligned
over the years.
Similar to Epicurus he advocated the
principle of refusing to believe in intangible
things, including religious deities. He said
the intangibles are preconceived notions
that can be manipulated. Thus its easy to
understand why early doctrinal Christians
ousted Epicurus and why early doctrinal
Marxists ousted Christ.
To re-discover Karl, well start off with The
Communist Manifesto, which he co-authored
with Engels, to enthuse with the theory
before doctrinal reality set in and ousted a lot.
Not Gluttony
Arendt and Pilger
Our latest entry to the philosophy shelves

is Reclaiming Epicurus by Luke Slattery and
is one in the special series of slim Penguin
Specials that are designed to be read in a
single sitting.
Staying on an Epicurean theme, journalist

and ethicist John Pilgers book, Hidden
Agendas, is a personal account of some of
the great liberation struggles of the late-20th
century, and the people who gave up so
much for their ideals. Pilger is passionately

on the side of ordinary people and their
extraordinary efforts to free themselves
from oppression, which is probably why
his neo-conservative critics try to paint him
as a Marxist. His interview with Aung San
Suu Kyi while she was under house arrest in
Burma is extraordinary.
An unsettling aspect of this work is that
that he deprives us of all our heroes, even
the recently deceased Nelson Mandela,
because they are flawed by the necessity of
compromise in public life.
He pulls few punches and, for example,
his accounts of South Africa and Vietnam's
deprivations under World Bank-imposed
strictures remind us that globalisation does
not lift all boats and even attempts to sink
some.
And finally someone else we regard as
Epicurean: Hannah Arendt
A recent biographical movie about this
controversial, American/Jewish social
theorist discusses her defense of Adolf
Eichmann when he was on trial in Tel Aviv
for Holocaust war crimes, and has brought
her writings back into prominence.
In her re-issued 1958 book, The Human
Condition, Arendt considered humankind
from the perspective of the actions of which
it is capable. She identified problems that
still beset us such as diminishing human
agency and political freedoms, and the irony
that as human powers increase through
technological and humanistic inquiry, we are
less equipped to control the consequences of
our actions.
You can see why the work is described as
being perpetually timely.
Her defensive writings on supposed
anti-semites the philosopher Kant and the
Catholic Pope, Saint Augustine continue to
make her a highly controversial figure among
her religious cohort.
fortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is

a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages
are not the cheapest, but this
is made up for by service and
ambiance. They also have a full
menu featuring familiar western
dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic
buffets and drink specials are
also offered.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
3718 5656
8am to 11pm
KITCHEN
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE

3719 2679
hungskitchen@gmail.com
7am to 9pm
Set inside a newly renovated
house with a large courtyard,
Kitchen is a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check
out the breakfast burrito), the
creatively titled sandwiches and
the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm)
and an innovative smattering of
healthy, smoothie-style drinks.
R&R TAVERN
RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6295 8215
Now on its third location, this
watering hole still lives up to
its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter,
and of course, some quality live
rock music. Its upstairs area
is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly
shows and events, while the
downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing
touch to the friendly community
environment.
RASA SINGAPURA
SINGAPORE PERANAKAN CUISINE

185 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3715 2992
rasasingapura-hanoi.com
5pm to midnight
This Singapore Peranakan Restaurant serves up authentic,
Straits fusion fare emanating
from Singapore, Malacca and
Penang. Boasting the mouthwatering nasi lemak as its signature
dish, all the fare here is homecooked by the owner / partner
who spent five years living and
studying in Singapore. This is
tasty, home-cooked, well-priced
fare in a pleasant but tranquil
setting.
SAINT HONORE
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
3933 2355
sainthonore.com.vn
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this bakery
and French-style
bistro is best visited in the
morning when that Gallic, freshcooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as
you walk through the door. The
downstairs space is split into the
bakery on one side with a small
non-smoking dining space on the
other. The upstairs lounge area
has standard tables as well as
sofa seating. Simple French
and international fare is served
at meal times. Has additional
venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba
Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc
Thach, Dong Da
The Pie Shop
TAKEAWAY PIES
2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena
Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 1507
thepieshophanoi@gmail.com
Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style
savoury pies and rolls. Available
in three convenient sizes (mini,
regular and large). Enjoy them
hot as a takeaway, or frozen to
keep for later.
state-of-the-art courses. There

are 100 different climbing routes
within the gym that are changed
every few months. They offer
clinics, classes and childrens
events. Membership and group
rates are available, but be sure
to check out the three-month
pass.

ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923
0253
An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety
of levels and styles, including
prenatal and postnatal classes,
restorative yoga, pilates and tai
chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates
mats, books, clothes, soaps,
Himalayan products and other
essential yoga equipment.
Groceries, Liquor & Kitchen Products

ANNAM GOURMET
Expat Servies
Maid in Vietnam
HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES
Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 3112
maidinvietnam.com
Offering a licensed hire service
for trained domestic and office
housemaids, cooks and nannies.
Courses include health checks,
housekeeping, safety, basic 1st
Aid, courses for external maids
and household management for
Vietnamese wives of foreigners.
Fitness & Yoga

ELITE FITNESS
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

3718 6281
elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment,
separate cardio and spinning
areas and an indoor swimming
pool with a retractable roof. The
spacious studios and natural
light make it a welcoming place
to squeeze in a work out, but be
prepared to pay. This place is top
of the range.
HANOI CLUB
COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823
8115
thehanoiclub.com
VIETCLIMB
CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel:
0914 143185
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find,
VietClimb is a French-owned,
200-meter climbing gym with
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 4487
FIVIMART
SUPERMARKET
Second Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1791
KITCHEN ART
KITCHENWARE
6680 2770
kitchenart.vn
Kitchen Art is a little haven for
all foodies, cooks and bakers
to grow their love and passion
for cooking and baking. Come to
Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients
to cook like a chef, take part in
regular demonstrations and
workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying
the peaceful West Lake view.
L's Place
GROCERY SHOP
3719 9911
NATURALLY VIETNAM
ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130
naturallyvietnam.com
Offers food and beverage
produced in Vietnam with full
traceability and strict food
safety controls. Meat, egg, milk,
fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit
juices, liquors, coffee, water,
ice cream. Also, every Saturday
from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the
team convert the store yard into
the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a
cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for
expats and Vietnamese.
PUNTO ITALIA
COFFEE MACHINES
6258 3510
puntoitalia.asia
Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace
or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their
own brand coffee in capsules,
ready ground or as the original
roasted mix of beans.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04)
3719 8337
THE OASIS
ITALIAN DELI
3719 1196
A great place to get all kinds of
imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads
and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of
fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a
fantastic deli and cheese case.
Free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3718 3701
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams ultimate premium wine importer,
distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest
wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The
portfolio mixes the best of both
old and new world wines.
Medical & Dental

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

3934 0666
Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic also
known for its quality emergency
services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of
services from standard GP-style
check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist
care.
One Dental Clinic
DENTISTS
8 Quang An, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 6168
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL

CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555
westcoastinternational.com
The Westcoast International
Dental Clinic is composed of
dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental
services throughout Vietnam.
The clinic provides the highest
quality technology, comfort and
after-service care to patients.
hanoi
The Alchemist
Its Written In the Stars: As Above, So Below
hen things get a little crazy

many of us search our
external environment for an
explanation. Sometimes were
so blindsided we have no idea where to
look to figure out the turn of events.
The universal law as above, so
below implies that one can turn to the
heavens to decipher what is happening on
Earth. According to astrology, the energy
of the cosmos that builds and evolves is
a reflection of the very energy that moves
through and around each and every one
of us. By the very essence of this cosmic
dance, we are linked inextricably to the
dynamic, transformational nature of our
Universe.
The Sign of the Cross

The Grand Cardinal Cross of last month,
which saw certain planets line up in
such a way that encouraged change and
transformation, was considered among
astrologers to be the most important
planetary transit of the year. Some
went so far as to describe it as the most
important planetary alignment of the
decade.
A Grand Cross is a rare configuration
of planets that align in two 180-degree
oppositions, forming the shape of an X,
By Karen Gay
and four 90-degree squares that play off

the energy of all the planets involved.
The effects of the Cardinal Grand
Cross will vary from person to person.
However, we have all been affected by its
energies, if not directly then in some way
by the actions or situations of others.
The Reality of Change

Simply because it is now May does not
mean we are no longer feeling the effects
of this powerful alignment. In fact, the
effects would have started well before the
actual event, the third week of April, and
will continue to be felt well past it.
The Grand Cardinal Cross brought
with it the opportunity to break apart,
eliminate, and complete aspects within
and around our lives, some desirable,
others less so. We have the choice as to
how we react to events that may seem
negative. Life is a series of natural and
spontaneous changes. Don't resist them;
that only creates sorrow. Let reality be
reality. Let things flow naturally forward
in whatever way they like. Lao Tzu
Use this opportunity of the Grand
Cardinal Cross energies to observe areas
of your life that would benefit from
significant change. It could lead to greater
growth and a deeper knowing of yourself
and those around you.

To learn more about the Grand
Cardinal Cross, do a search for Grand
Cross April 2014 on Google.
Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker,
is a holistic health practitioner
practicing in Hanoi. For information
on the types of services provided, visit
a-roamingbodyworker.com
hanoi
Reservations recommended.
ba dinh
MING PALACE
Bars & Nightclubs / Bookshops / Cafes / Clubs & Societies / Cooking Classes / Eat /
Fitness & Yoga / Hairdressers & Salons / Medical & Dental
Bars & Nightclubs

BARBETTA
ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3734 9134
ETE BAR
FRENCH LOUNGE
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 751331
10am to midnight
A favourite among those who
roam further west of the
city centre, this multi-storey
restobar has been going
strong for more than two
years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar
guarding exactly 50 different
cocktails. For many the Ete
burger is right on the mark
as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. Its always
crowded especially during the weekends. Amiable
staff, pleasant vibes.
SUMMIT LOUNGE
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3823 8888 ext. 5314
4pm to Midnight Sunday to
Wednesday, 4pm to 2am
Thursday to Saturday
Bookshops
BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi
Cafes
CAF GOETHE
ARTS CAF
56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 3734 7395
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 2247 0602
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CHAIN
28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh
(Next to the Flag Tower) Tel:
(04) 3823 3339
7am to 11pm
MANZI
ARTS CAF & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
A stunningly designed contemporary caf and events
space that screams out the
words modern art. Housed
in a converted colonial-era
villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows
make up the mix here. Great
cuisine, too.
Clubs & Societies

GOETHE INSTITUT
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh
Tel: (04) 3734 2251
goethe.de/hanoi
Cooking Classes
HANOI COOKING CENTRE
COOKING CENTRE
(04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a
school, retail outlet and caf,
where you can find classes
on not just Vietnamese
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3771 6372
10am to midnight
inh T
in H o n g
Hng
Bi
Q u n
Phng
Nguyn
Tri Ph
ng
B Tr
i u
Ho
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04)

3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
Hong
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Na
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Cha Lng
BOOKWORM
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Cao
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Kim M
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HIGHWAY 4
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To
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Hong Quc Vit
ing an international version

of the mighty curry they
even sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the
northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza,
korma and the more Goan
vindaloo taking centre stage.
Also has a good range of
breads and tandoor-cooked
kebabs.
n
Y
BA DINH
DISTRICT
Trn Nhn Tng
cooking, but international

cuisine, held in a beautiful
setting. They also offer culinary tours.
Eat
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts
of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all
for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar
and an a la carte menu, with
a creative selection of fruit
caipirinhas on hand to wash
it all down. The prices arent
for anyone on a budget, but
the amount and quality of
meat is more than worth
cost.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3716 2959
10am to 10.30pm
Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history
that screams empathy make
this eatery one of the most
popular Indians in town. Sell-
HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT

SONG THU
(04) 3942 4448
hoasuaschool.com
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
MATCHBOX
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3734 3098
11am to 11pm
MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE
PAN-CHINESE
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
Elegant and luxurious, May
Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.
Showcasing a selection of
authentic Chinese culinary
delights and Yum Cha at its
finest, with seven private
dining rooms this is a place
to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim
sum menus and set menus.
PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
A fine dining destination at
the Sofitel Plaza serving
Cantonese and pan-Chinese
cuisine in a sleek modern
setting with private dining
rooms. With more than 80
dim sum selections available
along with Chinese entrees,
Mings is an ideal eatery for
those hungry for higher end
Chinese fare.

THE BISTRO
FRENCH FLAIR
2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3726 4782
thebistro.com.vn
7.30am to 9pm
A modern eatery offering
western cuisine with shades
of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink
and food deals and a warm
indoor atmosphere you
know, just how the French
do it.
Fitness & Yoga

N SHAPE FITNESS
MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi
Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn
Hairdressers & Salons

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
Medical & Dental

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE
MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
On the little street directly
below Kim Ma, with all sorts
of specialists including OB/
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT.
A Medium-sized practice
with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they
are used to treating expats.
Also a 24-hour emergency
service.
Do you think you should be

listed on these pages? If so,
simply email us on
listings@wordvietnam.com
and well see what we can
do. We cant promise but
well try our best
hanoi
The Therapist
This month Douglas Holwerda,
American trained and licensed mental
health counsellor, answers the problems
of friendship and being an expat wife
pressfoto.com
Dear Douglas,
I need some advice about what I can do with
my husband, who is depressed and shows
no signs of improvement. We have been
together for sic years, married for the past
four, and have lived in Ho Chi Minh City
since 2012. I have a regular job as a teacher
and he had planned to do some writing
while teaching English on a part-time
basis. I see that he is in a state of depression
and I have tried to be supportive and
understanding of his inability to do or enjoy
much. Ive listened to him and waited for
him to feel and act more like the guy I knew
before, but now I find myself quite angry
at him and feel myself withdrawing. He
doesnt want to go to therapy because of the
cost, even though I have told him I will pay
for it. What can I do?
Charlotte (not real name)
Hello Charlotte,
The advice we all get when given safety
instructions on a plane to put on our own
oxygen mask before assisting others is
applicable when trying to support someone
who is chronically depressed or otherwise ill.
It is very important to keep tabs on our own
emotional wellbeing, especially under the
stress of compassion fatigue. If he wont go
to therapy, maybe you should go for a few
sessions to develop a clear plan of how you

can deal with your own challenges and be a
support to him.
Here are some ways to think about
depression and its effect on people.
In the same way that a person who has
pneumonia is not responsible for being sick,
depression is not the fault of the person who
has it. That said, a person who has depression
is responsible for the care of their own
emotional wellbeing and there are things
that they can do to improve the likeliness of
feeling better.
These things usually fall into two
categories. One is the mechanics of living
daily life. We know that when persons
activate themselves to participate in
things that formerly gave them pleasure
or satisfaction, even when they dont feel
like it, they often feel better. It can feel like
walking uphill effortful and laborious in
the beginning and eventually engaging and
satisfying. Sometimes we say you have to
fake it until you make it. It is the same with
participating socially. Of course, this is more
difficult as a person becomes more depressed.
The other category has to do with the inner
life of a person. Our low moods might be a
reflection of unresolved inner conflicts and
beliefs that are self-limiting. Socrates said,
An unexamined life is not worth living.
Our inner worlds can be full of doubts, fears

and messages about who we are which
undermine our ability to live confidently
in the world. Often people learn coping
strategies to deal with circumstances that are
beyond their control. This works for a while
maybe even years but is eventually
ineffective. We are meant to do more than
cope with life, and we have to go through the
process of understanding what it means to
live the way we are meant to. All of this is the
terrain of therapy.
So, Charlotte, recognise your limits and
that you are not doing him a favour by
sacrificing more than you really can (the
point at which you start to resent it). The
duration of his depression and the effect
it is having on your relationship strongly
suggests that he needs therapy to find his
way out of it. Push him to do it. Maybe he
has to know that you will pay for it now,
but he will have to pay you back sometime
in the future. It tells him that while you
support him, he is responsible for himself
and that you are optimistic that he will
overcome this depression.
Douglas
Do you have a question you would like
Douglass help with? You can email him at
douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details
will not be printed
hanoi
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
elsewhere
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
Bars & Clubs / Cafes / Eat / Medical & Dental / Recreation
CAMA ATK
MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 01262 054970
Wednesday to Saturday,
6pm to midnight
With well-poured drinks, a
foosball table, no smoking
and a midnight closing time,
CAMA ATK knows exactly
what it wants to be and
thats refreshing. The space
is a part time venue for
smaller acts and DJs. The
venue is hip, comfortable
and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable
place to pull up a stool and
take pulls in a relaxed haven.
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS
CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088
VUVUZELA
MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba
Trung
Cafes
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai
Ba Trung
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
Eat
A LA FOLIE...!
FRENCH
63 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3976 1667
alafolie63@gmail.com
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm.
Closed Monday
A cozy recently opened
space to taste fine French
food and excellent wines
without draining your wallet. Using high quality fresh

ingredients, the cuisine is
simple including anything
from a traditional omelette
or steak tartare-frites to coq
au vin or foie gras. Has two
floors and a patio.
ASAHI SUSHI
SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn
CAF 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342
7.30am to 9.30pm
French Grill
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc
Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04)
3833 5588
facebook.com/frenchgrill
Every day 6pm to 11pm
With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in
wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy
restaurant offers guests
a service experience with
crafted food difficult to find
in the capital.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3796 2647
10am to midnight
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7.00am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
KY Y
JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386
11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to

10.30pm, closed Sunday
LA VERTICALE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3944 6317
verticale-hanoi.com
11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to
9.15pm
Situated in an art-deco villa
that was once owned by
a Vietnamese mandarin,
this establishment is now
owned and run by perhaps
the most famous French chef
in the country. With modestly
priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on
the dishes, which primarily
come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up
market establishment lures
in its high class customers
with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.
POTS N PANS
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204
potsnpans.vn
11.30am to late
Brought to you by a group of
former disadvantaged youth
from Hanois own KOTO, this
unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends
the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like
profiteroles with green tea
and caf fillings, a private
chefs table with a kitchen
view, and an extensive wine
list combined with modern
formal styling bring a unique
experience to Hanoi.
WILD LOTUS
CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE

55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342
Medical & Dental

FRENCH HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
A Dong Photo Co
128 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732
Alpha Laptop
Bars & Clubs
Electronics
Recreation
KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL
SWIMMING POOL
Landmark 72 Tower, Pham
Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)
3772 3801
landmark72.com
ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK
ICE SKATING
Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen
Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936
469799
royalcity.com.vn
X-FACTORY LASER TAG
LASER TAG
77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai
Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106
x-factory-vn.com

simply email us on
well try our best
95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem

Tel: 3747 4418
Fuong May Anh

5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3213 1568
Nguyen Cau
1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
DK Computer
29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel:
3772 4772
Hi-Tech USA
Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261
Pico Plaza
Kiem
Professional Computer
Care and IT Services
No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983
011081
Vietsad
34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 8771
Swimming Pools
Army Hotel
33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896
Four Seasons
14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong
Da. Tel: 3537 6250
Hanoi Club
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8115
www.hanoi-club.com
Horison Fitness Center

40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3733 0808
Melia Hotel
Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343
Olympia
4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049
Sao Mai
10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 3161
Sofitel Plaza Fitness

Center
1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8888
Than Nhan
Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung,
(Inside the park)
Thang Loi Hotel

200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
hanoi
Medical Buff
Are you lactose intolerant?
By Dr. Cynthia Dacanay
f youve ever experienced a rumbling

of your stomach or the need to
go to the toilet after consuming
dairy products, you might just be
suffering from lactose intolerance.
Dr. Cynthia Dacanay, paediatrician at
Family Medical Practice, provides more
information on the causes, tests and tips
related to lactose intolerance.
What is lactose intolerance?

Normally, when a person consumes dairy
products containing lactose, an enzyme
called lactase will break it down into
simple sugars (glucose and galactose)
to serve as fuel for the body. In a lactose
intolerant person, this enzyme is lacking.
Hence the lactose remains undigested
and instead gets broken down by resident
bacteria causing the symptoms such as
flatus, bloating, abdominal cramps and
diarrhea.
This condition is fairly common.
It affects males and females equally
usually older individuals and
almost all Asian, African, Hispanic
and Native Americans. Factors such as
gastrointestinal infection or the intake
of antibiotics can also cause temporary
lactose intolerance.
If you have symptoms of bloating,
abdominal cramps or diarrhea within
two hours of taking dairy products, you
should see a doctor to confirm if youre
really suffering from this condition.
How do I test for this?

a) Hydrogen Breath Test
Hydrogen is normally not present in a
persons breath, but because lactose in
lactase-deficient individuals gets broken
down and forms gases, one of which is
hydrogen, it is then detected in the breath
of deficient individuals. This will entail
blowing into a tube every 30 minutes for
two hours after the intake of a lactosecontaining drink. An elevation in the
hydrogen level is expected in lactose
intolerance.
b) Endoscopy
A tissue sample from your gut is taken
to test for the presence of the lactase
enzyme.
c) Stool Acidity Test (for children)
Stools will be tested for the presence of
lactic acid or other fatty acids.
Managing Lactose Intolerance

It can be managed individually
depending on how deficient you are. Some

deficient individuals are still able to eat
small amounts of dairy without symptoms.
1) Cheese and yoghurt contain only a low
amount of lactose and seem to be well
tolerated by most.
2) Mix your dairy intake with other nonlactose-containing foods in the same meal
to allow slower digestion.
3) Lactase-containing supplements
are available and can be taken before
consuming dairy products.
4) Lactose-free products (those that contain
lactase) are easily available.

5) Read food labels. Words such as milk
or milk by-products, whey, curds and dry
milk solids indicate that the food contains
lactose.
Finally, calcium tablets should be taken
as part of your daily supplement since
the intake of dairy products may not be
enough for the daily requirement. Take
calcium enriched non-dairy foods such as
tofu, broccoli, beans and soya milk.
For more medical advice visit Family
Medical Practice vietnammedicalpractice.
com or go to 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Hanoi;
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Ho Chi Minh
City; 50-52 Nguyen Van Linh, Danang
hanoi
business
Business Groups / Corporate Services / Insurance / International Schools / Language Schools /

Management Training / Market Research / Relocation & tracking agents / Serviced Apartments
Business Groups
keychains, card holders and

menu covers.
ICHAM
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1
Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2229
icham.org
The Chamber has the main
purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and
to assist economic agents,
as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic
relations and cooperation
among entrepreneurs of
the various countries. The
Chamber will not engage in
commercial activities with
the aim of producing profits.
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2229
ccifv.org
A business group with over
240 members that supports the French business
community in Vietnam by
listening to their members
needs and expectations. Also
promotes Vietnam to French
companies and helps them in
developing their businesses
here.
EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
A confederate organisation
with strong ties to national
business associations in its
member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support
for the business interests of
European Union members in
Vietnam.
SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM

Business Center, Ground
Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B
Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: (04)
4772 0833
sbav-hanoi.org
Corporate Services
ENDO
79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3783 2085
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
Insurance
AIG
Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49
Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3936 1455
aig.com.vn
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel
Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3936 5370
Emergency: 0903 732365
insuranceinvietnam.com
Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal
lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has
been operational in Vietnam
since 1994 and offers free
advice and comparative
quotes.
International Schools
BRITISH VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BVIS)
H3-H4, Hoa Lan, Vincom
Village, Long Bien, Tel: (04)
3946 0435
bvisvietnam.com
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
International brand, Concordia, has highly performing
schools in both Hong Kong
and Shanghai at the top tier
of the educational system.
All instructors and teachers
are native English speakers
and admission applications
are accepted throughout
the year.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available for
students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is
one of the few private, international education options
in the capital. The institution
offers Cambridge IGCSE and
IB Diploma for students at
the secondary level. Located
near the Japanese Embassy.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF
VIETNAM
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai
Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183

www.isvietnam.org
The International School of
Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to
Grade 12 school serving the
international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts
students of any nationality
aged 3 and up. ISV offers
an international education
experience. Highly qualified
and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century
campus with the latest in
educational technology
plus excellent resources
for learning. Class sizes are
small.
Foundation Programme. A
strong curriculum combines
the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and
Vietnamese curricula, all
taught by qualified teachers.
Runs various co-curricula
activities and prepares
students for internationally
recognised qualifications:
iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE &
AS/A Level, GAC
UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (UNIS)
Unit 9 10, Shophouse

CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743
0360
3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung,
7243
C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri
New Urban, Tu Liem District,
Tel: +84 4 3794 0209
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with
a foreign teacher leading the
class with the assistance of a
Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student
ratio. KinderWorld provides
pre school education for
children from 18 months to
below 6 years.
QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF

HANOI
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
hanoi.qsi.org
With nearly four decades of
experience in international
education, QSI International
School of Hanoi is next in the
long line of quality schools
that have been established
by the Quality Schools International. The institution
specialises in instructing
pre-school and lower elementary age students.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (SIS)
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic
Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block
C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel:
3795 1036
www,kinderworld.net/sis
SIS provides international
education for students from
Primary up to University
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES
Hanoi Resco Building, 521

Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3726 1460
rmit.edu.vn
A leading international provider of skills training and
professional staff development, RMIT offers both short
and long-term courses,
customised courses, and
can provide for either on or
off-campus clients. Known
for its Business MBA which
is open to both Vietnamese
and overseas students.
Suite 821, Vietnam Trade

Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong,
0805
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving,
pet transportation, relocation services including home
search, orientation, cultural
training, immigration services and records management. For more information
email info@santaferelo.
com.vn.
Ciputra International Village,

Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551
unishanoi.org
Market Research
CIMIGO
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN
RMIT
Language Schools
APOLLO
67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3943 2051
Apollo.edu.vn
Established in 1994, Apollo
offers high-quality and costeffective English language
classes including general
English, English for teens,
English for business communication and a pronunciation
clinic. One of the countrys
leading language centres.
BRITISH COUNCIL
20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3728 1922
britishcouncil.org
The cultural arm of the British governments presence
in Vietnam, the BC offers a
variety of English language
courses business writing, corporate training and
general English in a large
learning centre close to West
Lake.
LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM

62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3927 3399
languagelink.edu.vn
With four schools around
Hanoi, Language Link runs
international English language courses endorsed by
Cambridge University. One of
the top language centres in
the capital.
Management Training
G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES
HKC Building, Suite 701, 285
Doi Can, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3762 3805
ghmsglobal.com
142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel:

(04) 3518 6696
vietnam@cimigo.com
cimigolive.com
Relocation & tracking agents

ALLIED PICKFORDS
Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan
Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The international home
moving company helps
make the burden of moving
a lot easier. As the largest
home moving company in
the world, Allied Pickfords
moves over 1,000 families
in over 175 countries every
day. Available with a full
range of services domestic moves, office moves and
storage whether you are
moving within Vietnam or
across the world.
ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO

Inland Customs Deport Area
(ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh,
Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882
asiantigergroup.com
Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of
moving households without
disruption ti family life. They
also offer pre-move advice
regarding customs and
shipping.
JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS

6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is currently a leader in
the field. Has offices in both
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
Serviced Apartments
ATLANTA RESIDENCES
49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 0912 239085
atlanta.com.vn
Atlanta Residences fully
serviced apartments have
been created to provide a
space where you can feel
at home. Within walking
distance from Hanois Opera
House and Hoan Kiem Lake,
this building offers a panel of
51 spacious apartments for
you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer
the luxury of a hotel mixed
with the peaceful comfort
and privacy of your home,
under one roof of course.
Fraser Suites Hanoi

(04) 3719 8877
Located in the West Lake
area, Fraser Suites Hanoi
consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four
bedrooms, which meet any
lifestyle. With a calming and
warm interior feel, each
apartment features all the
latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides
peace of mind.
SEDONA SUITES
No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 0888
sedonahotels.com.sg
SOMERSET GRAND HANOI

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3934 2342
somerset.com
Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive
facilities. 185 fully furnished
apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central
location.
hanoi
Student Eye
Prom Night Dreaming
hat do you remember of

your high school prom? The
excitement? Or the anxiety?
You may remember entire
weeks, months even, leading towards
prom night, when even boys fussed
over what suits they were going to wear,
which pants with which blazers. Its a
time when minds float and eyes wander,
as optimistic teens dream about all the
perfect ways prom could turn out.
But what were all these dreams really?
Were they merely excitement for a nice
prom, or did they represent something
real to you as a teenager?
Prom is sometimes seen as just an
excuse to hang out with friends in a more
formal and fancy style. For many of the
shyer teens, its also an excuse to finally
gather enough guts to ask their crush
out to prom. Its not every day that you
get to dance all night next to your dream
girl! though in my school, many of the
guys end up coming to prom partnerless,
pressfoto.com
coming in large packs to make it seem

intentional.
Before Life Gets Messy

But its the time prior to prom that
students enjoy and remember most
clearly. Theyll go out with their friends
to pick out their outfit, gossip over the
lunch table about whos going with
whom, spend hours at home trying to
fix their hair to perfection. Alongside
this excitement, teens often craft these
tremendous fantasies and expectations
of a very romantic, thrilling and
unforgettable night.
These fantasies, I think, are the basic
foundation of proms teens fantasies
of adulthood. Although many of my
friends would disagree, the whole
practice of wearing suits and dresses and
participating in a formal event in a very
formal place resembles our images of
adulthood. The idea of prom in its basic
form is a reenactment of these fantasies
a teens dream of a future world filled

with good looking, nicely-dressed people,
with good food, music, dancing and some
romance, too.
When the actual night comes, what we
pictured never quite happens. And, as
teens enter true adulthood, they will most
certainly not party every night or spend
each day picking out new dresses. But
that doesnt matter.
While proms are based on this whole
concept of teenagers becoming adults,
they are more a part of teenage life, a
beautiful and unique tradition that exists
only for people of this age. And although
it may be unreal, its not necessarily
something that should be condemned
or criticised. Like tooth fairies and
Santa Claus, proms and their fantasy
of adulthood is another innocent and
youthful belief that lets teens dream and
be excited to grow up, and is better left
unspoiled. Tae Jun Park
Ho Chi Minh City
business buff // body and temple // Coffee Cup // top eats // Non-Famous Places //
a world of good // food promos
Photo by kyle phanroy
HCMC
business
Accounting & Auditing / Advertising & Mktg / Business Consulting / Business Groups / Corporate Gifts & Services /
Event Management / Expat Services / Housing & Real Estate / Insurance / Interior Design / Investment & Finance /
Language Schools / Legal Services / Management Training / Market Research / Photography Services / Public Relations /
Recruitment & HR / Relocation Agents / Serviced Apartments
Accounting & Auditing COWAN STRATEGIC BRAND PHIBIOUS
DESIGN
GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS
4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon

Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 0220
globaleye.com
PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS
Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796
pwc.com
SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES
6th Floor, Me Linh Point

Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
0938 220 255
vivianwcooper@gmail.com
TMF GROUP
Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon

Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910
2262
Tmg-group.com

Advertising & Mktg
BBDO VIETNAM
74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 6662
bbdoasia.com
16th Floor, Bitexco Office

Tower, 1925 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064
cowandesign.com
DENTSU VIETNAM
AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005
Dentsu.com.vn
GREY GROUP
404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)
3929 1450
grey.com/vietnam
INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA
Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3740 6388
industrialdesignasia.com
MARKETEERS VIETNAM
FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh

Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933
3493
marketeersvietnam.com
OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower,
7274, Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821
9529
ogilvy.com
7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia

Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933
3377
phibious.com
An independent, creative
led communications company helps brands connect
and grow across Southeast
Asia. Clients include The
CocaCola Company, Asia
Pacific Breweries, Piaggio
and UPI.
PURPLE ASIA
9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050
purpleasia.com
RED | BRAND BUILDERS
Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45

Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820
0169
red.vn
Long-established branding
consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team
creates and shapes unique
marketing strategies that
add impact to international
and local brands from Viet-
Lets swim this May,
get rid of the heat and indulge yourself in our swimming pool!
VND
1,718,000+ /night
(1-bedroom apartment)
VND
2,482,000+ /night
(2-bedroom apartment)
Promotion includes use of:

- Free Wi-Fi Internet
- Shuttle bus & boat to District 1
- Local calls
- All Riverside facilities
* Terms & conditions applied:
- Rates are not included with breakfasts and subject to 10% VAT
- This promotion is applied for bookings made from 1 May 2014
- Cost for breakfast (not included 10% VAT) as below:
Adult: VND 120,000+ /person
Child: VND 60,000+ /child (under 12 years old)
Riverside Serviced Apartments - Sales & Marketing Office:
53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Tel: (+84 8) 37 444 111 ext. 216 | Email: sales@riverside-apartments.com
Website: www.riverside-apartments.com
nam to Australia.
RIVER ORCHID
10th Floor HDTC Building,
36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 2538
riverorchid.com
SAATCHI & SAATCHI

26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08)
3824 1207
saatchi.com
Ranked among the top 100
global advertising agencies,
S&S has worked with over
half of the 50 bestknown
brands in the world, providing advertisement planning,
direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic
design.
TBWA\VIETNAM
4th Floor, Saigon Finance
Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315
tbwa.com.vn

Business Consulting
BDG VIETNAM
11th Floor, Capital Place, 6
Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 7858
Bdg-vietnam.com
CONCETTI
33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3911 1481
Concetti.vn
GRANT THORNTON
ROUSE
6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58
Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 6770
iprights.com
STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3911 0965
starcorpvn.com
STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:
0904 410884
28th Floor, Saigon Trade

Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100
Gt.com.vn
TRACTUS ASIA LTD
INSPIRED IMAGE
XAGE CONSULTANCY
Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu

Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
0916 352573
Inspiredimage.co.uk
PRISM INFORMATION
TECHNOLOGY SERVICES
4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 7305 0905
prism.com.vn
164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel:

(08) 6291 2205
tractus-asia.com
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen

Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
Business Groups
AMCHAM
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
HCMC
Cinemas
Showcasing the latest
Hollywood blockbusters
and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as
Megastar Media, Lotte
and Galaxy Cinema offer
the most up-to-date and
modern cinema-going
experiences in Saigon.
For those partial to more
esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and
Idecaf carry little known
Vietnamese and European
efforts.
Cinebox
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10
Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
Lotte Cinema
13th Floor, Diamond Plaza,
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 38227897
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469
Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7
Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com
Galaxy Cinema
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Tel: (08) 3920 6688
116 Nguyen Du, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 5235
246 Nguyen Hong Dao,
Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1
Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn
Megastar Cinema
Level 5, Crescent Mall,
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My
Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5412 2222
Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A
Truong Son, Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 6297 1981
Level 5, Parkson Paragon,
3 Nguyen Luong Bang,
Phu My Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5416 0088
megastar.vn
amchamvietnam.com
An independent association
of American and international businesses, the objective
of the American Chamber of
Commerce in Vietnam is to
promote trade and investment between the United
States and Vietnam.
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

2nd Floor, Eximland Building,
179EF Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
auschamvn.org
A licensed foreign business group established to
represent and promote the
interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam,
AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions,
governmental relations
meetings and charity events.
SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6996
swissvietnam.com
AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD

14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364
ambrij.com
ENDO
406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh,
Tel: (08) 6292 2045
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.
Event Management

3829 8430
bbgv.org
Centerpiece Event Organizers
Room 305, New World Hotel,

76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the
Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business
associates together and to
facilitate discussion forums
about business in Vietnam.
NORDCHAM
17th Floor, Petroland Tower,
12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08)
5416 0922
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP

VIETNAM
40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
pbgvn.com
SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy
Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
Property Asset Management

Services, Hotel Investment
and Consultancy Services,
Integrated Facilities Management.
Expat Services
COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM
Corporate Gifts & Services
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF

VIETNAM
CANCHAM
bines excellent food, event

management and exclusive
venues to make any kind of
event a success.
Tel: 0906 761190

centerpiece-vn.com
info@centerpiece-vn.com
Centerpiece is an independent event planning company
run by expatriates that can
plan any event from private
parties, to corporate events
to weddings.
EVECOO
Tel: 0988 297990
evecoo.vn
GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6048
galaroyale.com.vn
ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD

268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan
Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880
THE CATERERS
46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel:
(08) 3812 6901
thecaterersvietnam.com.vn
Offers everything from canaps and cocktails, buffets
and set menus to barbeques
and wedding catering. Com-
CHUMS HOUSE
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

3920 7237
HAPPY HOUSE
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701,

Q1, Tel: 01659 419916
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu

Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
Housing & Real Estate

CBRE
12th Floor, Me Linh Point
Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 6125
cbre.com
JONES LANG LASALLE

26th Foor, Saigon Trade
Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968
joneslanglasalle.com.vn
Jones Lang LaSalle
(NYSE:JLL) is a professional
services and investment
management firm offering specialized real estate
services to clients seeking
increased value by owning,
occupying and investing in
real estate. As a truly global
firm, they work and collaborate closely with their
colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to
bring best-in-class services,
people, and systems to their
clients in Vietnam.
Their offices in Ho Chi Minh
City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant
Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory,
Research and Consulting,
Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency,
Industrial Agency, Project
and Development Services,
Bitexco Office Building, 7th

Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665
colliersmn.com/vietnam
CREATION
International Plaza Building,
Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu
Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553
CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom
Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 7968
cushmanwakefield.vn
EASY SAIGON
Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is
a useful real estate website
helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.
Enquiries via their website
are welcome.
KNIGHT FRANK
Suite A, level 7, VTP Office
Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6777
knightfrank.com.vn
Founded in 1896, Knight
Frank has grown to become
the worlds largest privately
owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial,
residential and residential
development services.
NAMHOUSE CORPORATION
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental
properties, constructions
and interior decoration,
especially in District 2. Supports professional services
and aftersales.
SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor,
81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 9205
savills.com.vn
Savills Vietnam is a leading
property service provider
in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory
services, residential sales,
commercial leasing, asset
management, retail advisory, valuation, investment
advisory and other services.
SNAP
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Caf in District 2, Snap offers a web
based real estate search
service with information on
rental properties all around
the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse
to wading into the internet
depths for their needs.
SOTHEBYS INTERNATIONAL
REALTY
Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 2000
sothebysrealty.com.vn
THE NEST
369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc
Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901
thenest-vietnam.com
Wellknown property
search and real estate
agency with a useful website
listing properties available
for rent and sale, orientated
towards expats. Website is in
English, French and Spanish.
Insurance
BAOVIET INSURANCE
49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661
baoviet.com.vn
IF CONSULTING
IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A
Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 7362
insuranceinvietnam.com
Independent advisors that
HCMC
Business Buff
Expensive Mistakes
By Shane Dillon
ets face it we all make mistakes.

Mistakes are part of learning and
often bring some value to our lives
from the experience gained. On
the other hand some mistakes are true
disasters and as the following list shows
can come with a huge price tag. All costs
have been adjusted to 2011 US dollars.
9) California Fires 2003

In 2003 a lost hunter made a mistake
that would end in disaster. The hunter,
lost and in despair, lit a distress
signal somewhere near San Diego
county estates. The fire quickly spread
destroying close to 300,000 acres, taking
the life of 14 people and destroying 2,322
homes. At the end of the day, the loss
was estimated at a $1.5 billion (VND31.5
trillion).
8) Murdoch and Deng Affair

After 32 years of marriage, the Murdochs
called it quits in 1999. Of the US$2.2
billion (VND46.2 trillion) in assets
Rupert gave to Anna, US$110 million
(VND2.31 trillion) was in cash. After the
split, Rupert was married just 17 days
later to 30-year-old Wendi Deng, with
whom he had an affair while married to
Anna. He is currently divorcing Deng.
7) The Piper Bravo Oil Rig

We all forget to do things sometimes.
However this case of forgetfulness may
be the most expensive. In May 1994,
safety inspectors forgot to replace a
valve at the Piper Bravo Oil Rig during
a routine check. The inspectors removed
and replaced all the other safety valves
apart from the one that was forgotten. A
worker who never knew that one safety
valve had been forgotten pushed the
start button. The results were disastrous.
The rig exploded killing 167 workers and
destroying property worth $3.4 billion
(VND71.4 trillion).
6) Sumitomo Copper Deals

The former chief copper at Sumitomo
Corporation attempted to corner the
copper market in 1996. Hamanaka
controlled as much as five percent of the
world's copper, before prices dropped
and his scheme collapsed. In June his
trade led to a reported loss of US$1.8
billion (VND37.8 trillion), which had
swelled to US$3.58 billion (VND75.18
trillion) by September. Hamanaka was
sentenced to eight years of prison.
pressfoto.com
5) The Columbia Space Explosion
2) AOL / Time Warner Merger
The Space Shuttle Columbia was destroyed

in February, 2003, just six minutes before
it was scheduled to land. When the space
shuttle launched, a hole was punctured
in one of the wings. All seven crew
members died in the crash. The cost of the
programme US$15.6 billion (VND327.6
trillion).
Companies also make mistakes and this

is among the worst ever made. AOL
purchased Time Warner for US$182 billion
(VND3,822 trillion) during the peak of
the dot-com boom in 2000 but sold it off
nine years later for US$36 billion (VND756
trillion). At the end of the day, AOL made a
loss of US$146 billion (VND3,066 trillion).
Thats before adjusting the final figure for
inflation.
4) Mercedez-Benz Buys Chrysler

In 1998, Mercedes-Benz merged with
Chrysler to create Daimler Chrysler, for
US$37 billion (VND777 trillion). But the
merger didn't work out as planned and by
2007, Mercedes sold Chrysler to Cerberus
Capital Management for US$7 billion
(VND147 trillion) for a loss adjusted for
inflation of US$26.6 billion (VND559 trillion).
3) Deepwater Horizon Explosion

On April 20, 2010, a BP oil rig in the US
gulf coast burst pushing nearly five million
barrels of oil from the well. This oil spill
is the largest in history, surpassing the 3.3
million barrels that spilled into the Bay
of Campeche in Mexico in 1979. Between
cleanup and repairs, the oil spill cost BP
close to US$40 billion (VND840 trillion).
1) The Chernobyl Meltdown

This stands among the worst mistakes ever
made in human history. The Chernobyl
meltdown was caused by faulty equipment
that was not repaired on time despite
warnings. As a result, four reactors went
out of control during a test leading to
the meltdown. A total of US$720 billion
(VND15,120 trillion) was lost in project,
cleanup and lost farmland costs. Two
employees died on the spot and a host of
many other people died later on including
28 fire fighters who were exposed to
radiation.
Shane works in the insurance industry in
Vietnam. He can be contacted at shanedillon@
bluecross.com.vn
HCMC
represent top reputable
medical insurers provide
you with the best suitable
medical cover for individual,
family or company needs.
BLUE CROSS VIETNAM

8th Floor, River View Tower,
7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08)
3821 9908
inquiry@bluecross.com.vn
www.bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part
of the Pacific Cross group
of companies with over 60
years experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.
Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable
service means they are the
strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are
getting the most out of your
insurance contact them for
a free quote.
IGLOBALASSIST
Tel: 0934 874271
Iglobalassist.com
LIBERTY INSURANCE
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3812 5125
libertyinsurance.com.vn
PRUDENTIAL
25th F, Saigon Trade Centre,
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 1660
prudential.com.vn
TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES

VIETNAM
Huu Nghi Building, 35 Le
Loi, Q1
ten-pac.com
An independent agency representing local and international insurance companies
in Southeast Asia. A trusted
partner for health, employee
benefits and life insurance,
the team at Tenzing has over
30 years experience providing insurance advice.
Interior Design
PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND
REMODELING
Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren
Hawk)
Thinking about upgrading a
bathroom? Perhaps a new
colour in the living room?
Maybe even a new wood
floor? Professional Painting
and Remodeling can help
with these and many other
projects. Provide international standards of quality
as well as professional and
timely service at reasonable
rates. Call today to schedule
a free evaluation.
Investment & Finance

DRAGON CAPITAL
1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo
Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
9355
dragoncapital.com
THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT

GROUP
27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0907
ethicalinvestmentgroup.
co.uk
TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623
t-wm.com
VINACAPITAL
17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower,
3821 9930
vinacapital.com
A leading investment fund
management company with
extensive experience in the
emerging Vietnam market.
Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which
is a US$839 million investment fund.
Language Schools
ILA VIETNAM
146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3521 8788
ilavietnam.com
A foreign-owned education
and training company that
offers a range of educational
programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes,

corporate training, teacher
training and overseas study
consultancy and placement
services.
LATELIER
33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492
latelier-anphu.com
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van,
Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670
771
vietnameselanguagegarden.com
VLS SAIGON
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging
from basic conversational
Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and
advanced levels, as well as
special courses including
Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival
crash course.
VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE

TRAINING & TRANSLATION
37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6678 0914
vnccentre.com
VUS
189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800
vus-etsc.edu.vn
Legal Services
ALLENS
Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29
Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
1717
vietnamlaws.com
BAKER & MCKENZIE

12th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3829 5585
bakermckenzie.com
FRASERS LAW COMPANY

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The
Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733
frasersvn.com
GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8599
gide.com
INDOCHINE COUNSEL
Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam
Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 9640
indochinecounsel.com
MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3822 8860
mayerbrownjsm.com
ing research programmes,

knowledge management,
developing marketing plans
and business models and
assessing market opportunities.
INDOCHINA RESEARCH
3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van

Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6965
indochinaresearch.com
MEKONG RESEARCH

Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314
mekongresearch.com
Management Training NIELSEN

EMBERS ASIA
80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728
embers-asia.com
ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288
erci.edu.vn
G&H
6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919
ghmsglobal.com
A 100 percent foreigninvested company focusing on
management services and
consulting with inhouse
programmes to meet the
particular requirements of
its clients. Offers teambuilding and academicbased
business and management
programmes.
XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
Market Research
CIMIGO
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727
cimigo.vn
An independent marketing
and brand research specialist operating in the Asia
Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimis-
CentrePoint Building, Level

4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088
vn.nielsen.com
TNS VIETNAM
3930 6631
Tnsvietnam.vn
With over 11 years in the
marketplace, TNS Vietnam
offers all three major market
research services customisation, access panels
and media monitoring to
a range of local and international clients.
Photography Services
DRAGON IMAGES
Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660
dragonimages.asia
Dragon Images production
studio is a professional team
of photographers, stylists.
shooting administrators,
casting managers and retouchers. They make photos
on various topics, from business to sport.
Public Relations
MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS
Level 5, 273-273B Ben
Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 5517
matterhorncommunications.com
Providing public relations
and communications support to international and
local firms operating in
Vietnam. Specialising in
corporate communications,
media relations, corporate
social responsibility and media and issues management
and training.
VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462
veropr.com
Helps clients expand their
footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective
public relations campaigns.
Services offered include
branding, media relations,
event management, public
affairs and issues / crisis
management.
Recruitment & HR
ADECCO VIETNAM
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26
- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3430
adecco.com.vn
Adecco is the world leader in
human resources solutions.
Established in Vietnam in
2011, Adecco offers a wide
array of global workforce
solutions and specialises in
finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.
HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

1st Floor, Thien Son Building,
5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com
G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM

CO., LTD.
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur,
District 1, HCMC.
Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th
Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba
Dinh District, Hanoi.
www.vieclambank.com
info@vieclambank.com
VieclamBank is a brand of
G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a
Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established
in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting
executive and senior level,
providing Vietnamese and
HCMC
Body
and
Temple
Tips for Fat Loss
By Phil Kelly
bout this time of year

approximately two to four
months after New Year I
see dissatisfied people who
just arent getting results or are
constantly picking up injuries from their
resolutions to become healthier and
slimmer. This leads to frustration and is
the main reason why people give up and
stop exercising or striving to achieve
their weight loss or health goals. Here
are some Body Expert Systems top tips
to make sure you achieve your goals and
hopefully continue or begin along
a path of positive change
1) Timing is everything. Eating

smaller meals more frequently is a surefire
way to boost your metabolism and create
a thermogenic effect inside the body. By
combining lean protein with the correct
types and amounts of good carbohydrates
and fats at the right times, you will super
charge your metabolism and turn your
body into a 24-7 fat burning machine.
2) Stay hydrated. Our bodies are
over 70 percent water; drinking water is

essential for optimal health. Water helps
prime the body for fat loss, as well as flush
out harmful toxins. Not drinking enough
can lead to a water imbalance in the body,
which can increase your risk of disease.
3) Eliminate high-fructose corn

syrup. Most carbohydrates cause the pan-
creas to produce insulin, which acts as a

signal to the brain to stop you from feeling
hungry. When you eat high fructose corn
syrup, however, the brain never gets this
signal so you are more likely to overeat
and gain weight. Often used in breads, cereals, breakfast bars, lunchmeats, yogurts,
soft drinks, soups and condiments, foods
with high fructose corn syrup are typically
very low in nutritional value and VERY
high in calories.
4) Improve gut health. Gut health is

essential to improving digestion and help
you feel better. You will actually feel more
energetic because your neurotransmitters
will be firing at optimal levels, and your
metabolism will be supported so that
nutrients and energy sources are getting
broken down, absorbed and used by the
body in the most effective manner. Additionally, research shows that improved gut
health lowers anxiety and stress levels,
which leads to less secretion of cortisol
(the hormone related to abdominal fat). So
pressfoto.com
avoid or cut down on the following toxins:

caffeine, alcohol, processed foods and bad
fats, as well as any other foods you think
might be causing problems with your diet.
5) Workout smarter not harder. In

order to burn fat you must workout efficiently, so be sure to choose the correct type
of exercise and maintain proper intensity
and focus for the duration and frequency
of each training session and routine. For
example, your cardio training could be the
cause of you not reaching your desired
goals. Certain types of cardio/workouts
release or elicit undesirable hormones
that will hamper anyones fat-loss targets.
However, the correct type of cardio will improve your health, increase fat metabolism,
burn off a lot of fat calories and release extremely beneficial hormones and enzymes
to cut away fat quickly.
6) Sleep. Sleep is a fat-loss nutri-
ent! Your body requires deep, restful,

restorative sleep to heal, detoxify itself,
maintain cognitive benefits and keep
all systems running smoothly. Not only
do most people not get enough hours of
sleep, but also the quality of sleep is often
interrupted and not restorative. Inadequate sleep increases stress and cortisol
levels, which has been proven to affect
abdominal fat.
7) Seek out expert help. Whether

you want to lose fat, build muscle, improve
posture, perform better or look amazing,
you need to get the right help to save you
money, pain, energy, potential injury and
a ton of frustration. But choose wisely, as
putting your health in someones hands
should never be taken lightly.
Phil is founder & master trainer at Body
Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763
or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or
through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)
HCMC
PHUONG HA
Canned food, candy and chocolate products,
liquor, Russian caviar and frozen food
Indian specialities, kids food and
spices supplied for hotels and restaurants
Cake Decoration
Supplies
Cake Moulds and
Pans
Cocktail
Materials and
Syrups
HCMC
Kids Classes & Sports
Japanese candidates with

experience studying abroad
or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and
competitive service suitable
for many types of business.
VIETNAMWORKS.COM
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
Relocation Agents
LOGICAL MOVES VIETNAM

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international,
local, domestic and office moves for household
goods and personal effects
through our global partner
network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not
have documentation.
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
DANCENTER
53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,
funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
this modern dance studio.
HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER

37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Inspirato.edu.vn
KIDS CLUB SAIGON

79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel:
0908 460267
kidsclubsaigon.com
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com
AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM)

5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices
globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.
ALLIED PICKFORDS
12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices
in over 45 countries, Allied
Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also
provides tailored relocation
services.
PIANO CLASSES
Tel: 01225 636682
morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
SAIGON MOVEMENT
Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com
SAIGON SEAL TEAM

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
SAIGON PONY CLUB

38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Saigonponyclub.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to
16 years and private lessons for children and adults.
Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
TAE KWON DO
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
VINSPACE
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo,

Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850
seal.com.vn
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

8FL, Thien Son Building, 5
Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers
local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including
home search, orientation,
cultural training, immigration services and records
management. Email info@
santaferelo.com.vn for info.
Serviced Apartments
CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT
656 Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587
camlyapartment@hcm.
vnn.vn
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON

19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids
in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and
saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a
mixture of private and group classes.
SAIGON EXPRESS
AGENCY LIMITED
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY

Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower,
9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12,
District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3
826 7799
www.asiantigers-mobility.
com
Asian Tigers is one of the
largest regional move management specialists, with
services including door-todoor moving, housing and
school searches, local and
office moves and pet relocations.
CROWN RELOCATIONS
2nd Floor Coteccons Office
Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien
Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3840 4237
crownrelo.com
JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is a leader in the field.
DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES

No 01 Street No.104-BTT,
Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,
Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08)
3742 5678
enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury
Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from
two to four-bedroom units
with spectacular panoramic
views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite
bathrooms, separate work
and living areas, a balcony,
modern amenities, elegant
furnishings and carefully
chosen trimmings.
CITYVIEW

3822 1111
cityview.com.vn
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON RESIDENCES
Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon youll

find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The
residences offer panoramic
views of the downtown area.
NORFOLK MANSION
1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished
accommodation with attentive and discreet service.
Facilities include an outdoor
swimming pool, a gym, sauna
and steam room, as well as
two on-site restaurants.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
(08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank
hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort
lifestyle with the amenities
of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from
downtown by high-speed
boat shuttle.
SEDONA SUITES
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9666
sedonahotels.com.sg
SHERWOOD RESIDENCE
127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3823 2288
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a
luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime
location, comfort and class,
with fivestar facilities and
service.
SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C
Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
Somerset Chancellor Court,
Somerset Ho Chi Minh City
and Somerset Vista Ho Chi
Minh City serviced residences combine the space
and privacy of an apartment with the services of a
top-rated hotel. They come
with separate living and
dining areas, as well as a
fully equipped kitchen where
guests can prepare a meal
for themselves, their family
and friends.
Delivery
Ben Style
Tel: 0906 912730
www.vietnammm.com/
restaurants-ben-style
Healthy, calorie-counted
sandwich and deli fare
Chez Guido
Tel: (08) 3898 3747
www.chezguido.com
Vietnamese, international
fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches
Dominos Pizza
Tel: (08) 3939 3030
www.dominos.vn
Pizzas, wings, desserts
Eat.Vn
www.eat.vn
Delivery service website
for local restaurants
el gato negro
Tel: (08) 6660 1577
Californian-style burritos
HUNGRYPANDA.VN
www.hungrypanda.vn
KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
www.kfcvietnam.com.vn
Fried chicken, chicken
burgers, sides
Lotteria
Tel: (08) 3910 0000
www.lotteria.vn
Burgers, fried chicken,
sides
Pizza Hut (PHD)

Tel: (08) 3838 8388
www.pizzahut.vn
Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers
Scoozi
Tel: (08) 3823 5795
www.scoozipizza.com
Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts
Taco Bich
www.tacobich.com
Homemade Mexican fare
willy woos
Tel: (08) 3941 5433
www.blackcatsaigon.com
US-style chicken and
waffles
Vietnammm
www.vietnammm.com
THE LANDMARK
5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2098
thelandmarkvietnam.com
65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a
comprehensive health club
for tenants and members,
a squash court and a 16th
floor swimming pool.

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
downtown
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
Bars & Clubs / Cafes & Ice-Cream / Clothing &

Accessories / Cooking Classes / Crafts & Furniture / Eat /
Fitness, Dance & Yoga / Galleries / Groceries, Liquor &
Wine / Hairdressers / Medical & Dental / Salons & Spas
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
BEER REPUBLIC
MODERN BEER HALL

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel:
0945 858034
facebook.com/BeerRepublic
BLANCHYS TASH
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
0909 028293
Blanchystash.com
BOOTLEG DJ CAF
MINIMALIST CAF BAR

9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907
609202.
bootlegsaigon.com
Reminiscent of a New York
or London underground
watering hole, this is a great
place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts,
lunch by day and a variety of
DJ sets by night.
BOUDOIR LOUNGE
HOTEL LOUNGE BAR

Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

LIVE MUSIC / BAR

8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 7699
CUNHOUSE
LOUNGE BAR
Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
Tel: 0908 033982

DRUNKEN DUCK
EXPAT / SPORTS BAR

58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3915 2853
Subtle lighting, a pleasant
ambience, a pool table and
darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel
of a drinking man's pub. A
place to have fun, drink beer
or spirits and get in with the
party mood. Known for its 15
shooter challenge.
FUSE
TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP

3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
0919 206461
fuse.vn
GAME ON
SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel:
(08) 6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com
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District 2
Da
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EXPAT BAR
3822 2644
Expats keep returning to
this smoky dive bar, largely
due to its amicable service,
brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart
games. A mainstay in the
local darts league.
District 3
Ba
Hu
ng
ICE BLUE
Ha
i
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LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595
hardrockcafe.vn
Kh
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APOCALYPSE NOW
CARMEN
HARD ROCK CAFE
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TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 1234
International dcor blends
seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces
with a wide-ranging drink
menu and hip dance tunes to
create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP
3823 6838
Bromas medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the
citys weirdest and coolest
events/random moments.
A sophisticated cocktail
menu and quite possibly the
best lamb burger in town.
Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.
To
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2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)
BROMA
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Bars & Clubs
Binh Thanh
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District 4
Vo
LA HABANA
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and
restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and
Cuban cuisine, as well as a
few German favourites such
as curry wurst and Wiener
schnitzel. Nightly live music
and regular salsa classes.
LA FENETRE SOLEIL
FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

3824 5994
A seductive watering whole
in a great corner location
thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese
fusion cuisine, imported
beer, classic cocktails, and
entertaining music events /
DJ sets.
LAST CALL
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 3122
lastcallsaigon.com
If youre in need of dense,

soulful atmosphere and
maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from
wherever, Last Call is your
stop and fast becoming
that of the similarly inclined.
Great happy hour deals for
early evening starters.
Le Rendez-Vous de Saigon
FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR

9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 0396
lerendezvousdesaigon.com
With such a meaningful
name - the meeting point
- this wine bistro boasts a
relaxed, friendly ambience,
perfect for unwinding with
an after work drink or to
enjoy time with friends.
Reasonably priced, has a
sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive
old and new world wine list.
LEVEL 23 WINE BAR
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

Level 23, Sheraton Saigon
Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT
LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB

Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
LUSH
PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM
3824 2496
lush.vn
OBRIENS
large whiskey selection and

upstairs pool table. Great
pizzas. And for a real treat,
check out their zesty rolls.

PACHARAN
SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6024
pacharansaigon.com
Legs of Iberian ham hang
from the ceiling in the
downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything
Spanish. Regular first-floor
live music and excellent eats
makes it a mainstay for the
wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports
bar with classic pub dcor
is widely appreciated for its
excellent international fare,
PHATTYS
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed
Caf Latin, Phattys has become the go-to, Aussie beer-
HCMC
Coffee Cup
The Gioi Donut
tepping into The Gioi Donut

from Hai Ba Trung is surprising;
from bustlingly chaotic to
brightly psychedelic. Glossy
photos of donuts festoon the wallpaper,
Chinese lanterns glow and toppings
galore some hitherto unimaginable
cover the goodies. Posters tell the history
of donuts.
The line moves and I order by sight,
ignoring English descriptions. Some are
cutely named the King, the Queen,
the Fog. Many are beautifully decorated
cartoon characters, bright frosting,
happy little messages. Most creative are
the packs of four unique, Twinkie-shaped
Sushi Donuts.
The stairs are narrow and the dining
area seedy, with trash on every empty
table and old furniture stacked in a
corner. Graffiti covers the walls, scrawled
by teenagers, TGDs main market. They
fill the other tables and no wonder,
with donuts priced in the VND14,000
to VND16,000 range. Wi-Fi is free. The
few drinks (mostly tea, with some other
Photos by Francis Xacier
coffee shop favourites like Milo and ca

phe sua da) are inexpensive too.
Quality varies, despite the beautiful
exteriors. I bite into my Dark Chocolate
Cream donut and drop it; the cream
filling has soured. The Blueberry is good
inside and out. The Queen, topped with
salted butter, is odd, but I could like it.
All the donuts cake is dense without
being oily. When I take a sip of my iced
cappuccino (VND20,000), grit sticks in
my teeth.
The Passion of the Pastry

The owner, Huyen, arrives, and I ask
about the creative, colourful donuts.
I love design, she says. She creates
seasonal and holiday donuts, and designs
new ones weekly.
She and her husband opened TGD
in 2008 at the urging of a Singaporean
friend the first donut shop in Vietnam,
she claims.
Huyen had to remake recipes to suit
Vietnamese tastes. Foreign donuts are
too sweet, she explains.
Donuts, so unfamiliar in 2008 that she

literally had to give them away, soon
exploded. TGD began selling as many as
2,000 donuts daily.
When it Sprinkles, it Pours

Then times grew tougher. Imitators flocked
after TGD only to fail, while TGD hung on.
TGD is at a crossroads, considering
offers to expand beyond Saigon. Huyen
plans to renovate but foreign giant
Dunkin Donuts is on the scene now.
Support Vietnamese donuts! says
a smiling Huyen when I ask for final
comments.
I wish I could whole-heartedly support
this David of a donut shop against the
Dunkin Donuts Goliath; its a lovely story,
a shop with so much potential. Maybe
after renovations finish I could do it. But
right now, its not my kind of hangout.
Still, variety is nice, and doubtless Ill try
The Gioi Donut again. Owen Salisbury
The Gioi Donut has a branch at 210 Hai
Ba Trung, Q1, and one at 64-66 Tran Hung
Dao, Q1
guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing

everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub
favourites.
SAIGON SAIGON
HOTEL MUSIC BAR

9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Som
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
STORM P
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738
Stormp.vn
VASCOS
MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR

The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 2888
Vascosgroup.com
A veteran fixture of Saigons nightlife scene,
Vascos offers a softly lit downstairs patio,
and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge
area with regular live music.
VELVET
DANCE/HIP HOP
26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2262
velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9698
Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle,
Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet down-toearth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative,
Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement
the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking
and dining venue
VINO
WINE BAR / TAPAS

The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6299 1315
1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
vinovietnam.com
This downtown wine shops terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can
select from 10 wines by the glass, a range of
imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu.
Alternatively, buy from the great selection of
wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.

VINYL BAR
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623
vinylbarsaigon.com
A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop
of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a
darts area out back and is a popular space
for watching the live English Premier League.

WINE BAR 38

38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968
With a huge selection of self-imported wines
from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a
lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian
menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.
WINE EMBASSY

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine
bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu
to complement the old and new world wines.
XU
CAF / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known
for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a
range of international and Vietnamese dishes
to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior.
Regular DJ nights.
ZANZBAR
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7375
Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list,
subtle lighting, international tapas and a laidback, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the
offering at the all-new ZanZBar on the river
end of Dong Khoi. Popular with a businessy,
international crowd.
Cafes & Ice-Cream
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772
Auparcsaigon.com
Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc
offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean
food complemented with good coffee and
excellent desserts.
BACH DANG
ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE

26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2707
BASKIN ROBBINS
FANNY

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633
fanny.com.vn
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL
80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3704
saigongivral.com
GOODY

133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339
A Taste of
Authenticity
HAGEN-DAZS

11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 6683 5899; 20 Le
Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066
KITA COFFEE
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6799
Kitas colonial-era building and bistro-style
decor will have you thinking youve been
transported to the streets of Europe. Pair
your experience with an espresso-based
Italian coffee from their Mediterraneanbased menu. Excellent sandwiches and
salads.
LUSINE
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674
9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor compliments
the spacious, whitewashed contemporary
interior of LUsine. A simple, creative menu
combines with reasonably priced coffee,
and a fashion store and art gallery out back.
Second location on Le Loi.
ICE CREAM PARLOUR

1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131
baskinrobbins.vn
CASBAH
MIDDLE EASTERN
59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5130
This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse
has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to
admire views of the city. With such a prime
downtown location, expect prices to match.
CENTRO
ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE

11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
5946
Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best
lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu
including panini and other typical fare.
COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL
Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3508 7285
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures customers into
the flagship store of this international caf
chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating
and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.
CREPERIE AND CAF
FRENCH
5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117
Known for its fantastic street-side seating
opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury
crepes, this hang out caf will impress you
with its location as much as its food.
36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward,

District 2, HCMC
Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888
Email: info@pendolasco.vn
Delivery service available daily,
from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC

Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181
Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn
Monday to Friday:
11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00
Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00
www.pendolasco.vn
HCMC
Magonn The Cafe
(08) 3822 9672
magonn.vn
Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything
from drinks to bites. Coming
with a crowd? The attic is a
quaint little spot to fit a cozy
gathering.
M2C Cafe
44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2495
facebook.com/m2ccafe
At M2C (Modern Meets
Culture), everything gets a
touch of modernity. From
the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows
immense local culture, done
with a modern flare. Be seen
here at one of the latest popular joint in town.
The Morning Cafe

2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
Have a book to read? Pick a
bright spot by the window
and get snuggly with the
comfy upholstery in this
second-floor cafe. With a
cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some
background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.
THE PRINT ROOM
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
3823 4990
Second-storey coffeehouse
offers a quiet atmosphere
to chill out or read from
their book-nook collection.
Comfortable couch seating,
open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
TRUNG NGUYEN
INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE
80 Dong Khoi, Q1
trungnguyen.com.vn
ZEST BISTRO & CAF
INTERNATIONAL
5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)
3911 5599
This two-storey building with
a mezzanine level boasts an
industrial style complex with
block walls, steel structures
and huge glass windows.
The mid-range menu offers
over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

ANUPA ECO LUXE
LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2394
anupa.net
Monday to Sunday, 9am to
8pm
This centrally located unique
boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique
which exclusively retails
the complete Anupa leather
and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other
unique eco brands such as
bamboo eyewear, pendant
scarves and cushion covers.
DEBENHAMS
ADULT & CHILDRENS WEAR

Vincom Center, 70-72 Le
Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
7592
GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN
DESIGN & JEWELLERY

6291 8162
galleryvivekkevin.com
9.30am to 8pm
This retail-cum-gallery
space specialises in contemporary and exclusive
handcrafted jewellery made
from handpicked gemstones
and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run
every month.
GEISHA & GEISHAS COFFEE AND

TEA HOUSE
CASUAL & EVENING WEAR

3829 4004
Contemporary ranges of
casual and evening wear
fused with Asian designs.
The apparel includes floral
dresses, jean skirts, printed
tees and street-style bags.
Enjoy a cup of coffee at their
caf after.
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
8755
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
IPA-NIMA
BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
9am to 9pm
LUSINE
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and
sophisticated clothing and
casual high-quality cottons
are stocked at this boutique/
caf. Lifestyle accessories
include shoes, homewares,
knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.
MANDARINA
TAILOR-MADE SHOES
(08) 3827 5267
MR & MRS SMITH
FACTORY OUTLET
(08) 3821 8019

9am to 9pm
This designer fashion outlet
sells a variety of clothing and
shoes produced in Vietnam.
All designs are brand new,
delivered from the factory
weekly and sold at factory
outlet prices.
SONG
ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65
Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3914 4088
asiasongdesign.com
T&V TAILOR
TAILORS
3824 4556
triciaandverona.com
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A
Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
Cooking Classes
SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY
HOA TUC
3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The
three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking
Vietnamese chef, includes a
trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.
VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu
Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com
Crafts & Furniture

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 4201
bellavitafurniture.com
BOCONCEPT
DANISH FURNITURE
68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 6604; The Crescent
Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5413 7357
boconcept.vn
DIABOLO
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1803
9am to 8pm
EM EM
SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org
NGUYEN FRERES
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
3823 9459
8am to 8pm
NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY
EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS
3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1.
(08) 3824 7456
ninhkhuong.vn
SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

69 Dong Khoi, Q1
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre,
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
6115
www.nhaxinh.com
THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse.
com.vn

Eat
3T QUAN NUONG
VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631
AL FRESCOS
INTERNATIONAL
38238424
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of
one of Vietnams most successful restaurant chains,
Al Frescos offers international, Australian-influenced
comfort fare in a pleasant
environment with efficient,
friendly service to match.
Excellent delivery service.
ASHOKA
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 1372
33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel :
(08) 3744 4177
ashokaindianrestaurant.
com
Long-running, awardwinning Indian restaurant
famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and
Chinese-Indian fare.
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAF
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European
caf fare think deli-style
sandwiches, salads and
HCMC
mezzes, plus coffees and juices served at
a popular park-side Le Duan location with
classic cream and green-tiled dcor.
Bun Cha Ha Noi
BUN CHA
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1
CENTRAL PARC BANH MI
BAHDJA
87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763
1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com
Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel,
Bahdja is Saigons first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber
North African and Mediterranean cuisine
cooked and served in a traditional Algerian
style. Best experienced in a group, this small
but pleasant restaurants soothing ambience
is matched by the owners genuine hospitality
and complimented by an array of tasty tajines
and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to
try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.
BARBECUE GARDEN
VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE
135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
3340
barbecuegarden.com
BASILICO
Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du
and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099
BEIRUT
LEBANESE
The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2188
BIBI@ALIBI
5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257
The legendary chef Bibis newest creation, a
convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean
cuisine using fresh products bought early
morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the
famous tarte tatin.
BLACK CAT
AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055
blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails,
mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular twostorey eatery close to the river.
BLANCHY STREET
JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8793
The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito,
the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine
at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and
most unusual in the city. All complemented
by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy
terrace out front.
BOMBAY INDIAN
INDIAN MALAY
57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114
BROTZEIT
GERMAN / RESTOBAR
Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 4206
brotzeit.co/kumholink
7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549

Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule,
New York-themed sandwich shop does
creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices
think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels.
Excellent delivery service.
CIAO BELLA
NEW YORK-ITALIAN
11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering
a range of tasty and affordable antipasti,
pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic
bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film
legends make for a relaxed and attractive
setting.
CORSO
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing
range of US and Australian steaks plus great
grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decentsized steaks start at VND390,000.
DRAGON NOODLE
JAPANESE NOODLES
29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008

ELBOW ROOM
AMERICAN
52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking USstyle diner ranges from meatball baguettes
to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken
salads and a selection of more expensive
international mains.
EL GAUCHO
5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an
Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage,
skewers, burger dishes and everything that
can come off a grill.
GANESH
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and
creamy and the curries are both authentic
and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the
best Indian in town. Very friendly service.
GOLDEN ELEPHANT
CLASSIC THAI
34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554
saigonssk@vnn.vn
GOURMETS DELIGHT
ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE

Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181
gourmetsdelight.com.vn
GRILLBAR
AIRCON STREETFOOD
122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7901
facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe
Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to it a range of grilled dishes,
typical of the barbecue fare youd find on

the street, and then add in three types of rice
and a range of organic products. Close to Ben
Thanh Market, this is com binh dan
HOA TUC
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1676
Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn
rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken
in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101
LA HOSTARIA
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080
lahostaria.com
This downtown hideaway with rusticstyle
decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello dantico.
Also specializes in excellent wood-fired
pizzas.
LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON
HOGS BREATH CAF
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai
Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar
atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers
regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy
hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.
CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION

40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263
lebouchondesaigon.com
A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic
staples such as French onion soup, escargot,
and moules marinires, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world
wines.
LE JARDIN
INAHO
SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326
JASPAS WINE & GRILL
INTERNATIONAL FUSION
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good
and creative. Excellent service, an attractive
outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu.
Check out their pepper steaks.
KABIN
CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 815 Ton Duc
Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine
in an elegant, classic setting, with striking
dcor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to
VND900,000.

KOH THAI
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4423
Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai
classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and
more. Koh Thais creative cocktails merge
Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and
herbs.
LE BANH MI
12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1036
LOLIVIER
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with
its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and
ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant
has quarterly Michelin star promotions and
an award winning pastry team.
LA CUISINE
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant
bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu,
backed up with an extensive wine list.
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882
CLASSIC FRENCH
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465
Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a
relaxed garden setting within the French
cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap
house wine is served by the carafe.
LUCCA
TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN
88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3691
A contemporary trattoria in the heart of
Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine
with New York flair in a beautifully designed
space with high ceilings. The menu features
both traditional antipasti and substantial
main courses.
LUONG SON
PAN-VIETNAMESE
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330
MARKET 39
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 9999
MOGAMBO
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311
mogambo@saigonnet.vn
NAM GIAO
HUE CUISINE
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38
250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 9996
namgiao.com
NHA HANG NGON
VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD

160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131
NINETEEN
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
OMG!
FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1
HCMC
Top Eats
Ploughmans Garden
nce you enter through

Ploughmans Gardens gate, you
leave Vietnam. Or at least thats
how it feels. Tucked away in
an alley, Ploughmans Garden is easily
missed, but that shouldnt dissuade you
from making the trek to District 2 in search
of excellent vegetarian and vegan fare.
Everything about eating at
Ploughmans Garden lends itself to an
intimacy usually far removed from your
run-on-of-the-mill caf experience
and that is largely due to the fact that
nothing about Ploughmans Garden
is ordinary. Firstly, it is chiefly located
in Seiko Katsumarus backyard. Seiko
opened the Saigon location in January
of this year and her housemates work as
cooks and waiting staff for the restaurant.
This combination serves to make you feel
instantly welcomed and at ease.
From the moment you arrive, there is
a sense of tranquility that accompanies
your dining experience. The seating is
limited and community style, so this
sense of closeness extends to your fellow
patrons, who could easily transform from
strangers to friends in the course of a
meal. There is a genuine sense of unity in

the experience of eating at Ploughmans
Garden, at least when it comes to
supporting sustainability and chemicalfree foods.
The Ploughmans Empire

Ploughmans Garden is the second in
the Ploughmans empire there is
already a Ploughmans Lunch Bakery
owned by Seikos best friend in Japan.
Though both restaurants are housed out
of homes and have limited menus and
hours (Tuesday to Saturday, from 10am
to 4pm at Ploughmans Garden) they
differ in that Ploughmans Garden uses
no meat, milk or white sugar in their
food. At Ploughmans Lunch Bakery they
make more western-style food while
Ploughmans Garden leans towards
eastern fare, specifically Japanese.
This eatery is also different from other
local vegetarian restaurants. They grow
some of their own vegetables adopting
more of the holistic ethos vegetarianism
has taken on in other places. The
restaurant also composts, recycles and
tries to limit waste.
Seiko opened Ploughmans Garden

because she wanted transparency when
it came to her food. Not only did she
want to know where her food came from
and what was in it, she also wanted to
know who was making her food and
how.
The menu is constantly changing, but
you can count on everything tasting
homemade from the type of home
that produces well-seasoned dishes. The
Ploughmans Lunch Plate (VND120,000),
a hearty sampler of typical Ploughman
offerings, is a perfect introduction to
Seikos wonderful food. It consists of
a delicious teriyaki eggplant, carrot
and ginger sushi roll, and three small
Japanesestyle dishes: Kinpira of
nutty lotus roots, a luscious deep-fried
spicy potato spring roll and an organic
vegetable salad dressed in a bright garlic
coriander dressing. It gives you the
feeling that youve not only come upon a
lunchtime oasis, but youve drunk from
its clear waters. Jacklynn Blanchard
Ploughmans Garden is at No. 58, Duong
So 1, Tran Nao, Q2, Ho Chi Minh City
A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from
Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell
modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a
jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.
OSAKA RAMEN
JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My
Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7
OPERA
Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
Unpretentious, casual but elegant restaurant
with a triedandtested Italian menu backed
up by a compact wine list from regions like
Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and impressive open kitchens.
PACHARAN
SPANISH / EUROPEAN
97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924
Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs
bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in
warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharans
food menu is traditionally Spanish.
PASHA
TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL
25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677
pasha.com.vn
Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant
close to the mosque with Islamic-style white
dome dcor and comfortable, cushioned
seating.Authentically Turkish cuisine with a
sprinkling of western fare thrown in.
PENDOLASCO
PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian
restaurant serves up quality homemade
pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and
grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.
PIZZA 4PS
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet
delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and
calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more
traditional varieties.
Propaganda
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1
Part of the group that includes Au Parc
and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of
barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda
Art murals and prints.
QUAN BUI 2
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515
With its leafy roof garden and chic interior,
Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open
kitchen.
REFINERY
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL
The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)

3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades this popular
French-style bistro and wine bar which once
housed the citys opium refinery. The cuisine
runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.
REFLECTIONS
INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING

3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
RIVERSIDE CAF
Renaissance Riverside, 815 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
Offers versatile allday dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to
watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.
Good for events.
SKEWERS
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini
carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range
of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop
skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.
TANDOOR

74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839
Tandoorvietnam.com
TEMPLE CLUB
SAIGON CAF
PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old
Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple
Club is one of the citys best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.
SEOUL HOUSE
THE BURGER CORNER
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT
PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of
dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong,
Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms
and a main dining area seating over 300.
INTERNATIONAL
43 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0094
The Swiss House Saigon

54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2079
swisshousesaigon.com
Serving up authentic cuisine spanning the
three linguistic regions of Switzerland, as
well as dishes from Bavaria and Austria, this
attractive, two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant
also boasts a beer cellar in the basement.
HCMC
Non-Famous Places
The Shipping Magnates Mansion
In an ongoing series originally published on the blog From Saigon, Non-Famous Places
seeks to take readers to Ho Chi Minh City landmarks left off most maps, whose stories
make up the citys very soul
Illustrations by Lys Bui
ear what used to be the Canal

Bonard in Ho Chi Minh Citys
Cholon area, the family home of
a long-gone shipping magnate
sits, surrounded by houses with tin roofs
and modern structures, rivaling the
mansions three storeys with their blocky
presence. Through the concrete which
covers damaged sections of original tile,
the original craft is still evident. Contours
of elegant wrought iron billow out from
concrete walls, which hide the courtyardwide fence theyd been cast to support.
Chicken cages lay scattered.
The patriarch of the nine-member
family residing there was named Tiet Tuc.
He was part of the Chaozhou Chinese
community, whose immigration the
French encouraged from the 1860s, the
most successful of Cholons final wave
of settlers. Quach Dam, the builder of
Cholons magnificent Binh Tay Market,
was also from Chaozhou.
the house Tucs family still calls home.

It was here that Tuc set about building
his legacy. In 62-year-old Dinhs early
years, it was still the only home on its
canal-circumscribed block. As what would
Sunk Costs
become Ho Chi Minh City developed and

became more prosperous, Tuc contributed
to that development commissioning the
building of An Binh Hospital and Nghe
An High School. To staff them, he invited
doctors and teachers from Chaozhou to
work there and train local professionals in
Chaozhou-style methods.
The house passed to Tucs fourth son,
80 or 90 years ago, according to

Tucs granddaughter Mrs. Dinh, her
grandfathers import-export company
Thuan Long sent an ill-fated shipment of
beans to Hong Kong. When the ship sank,
he looked to his insurance company for
compensation. The owner of the insurance
company was the original inhabitant of
Tiet Que, who also took control of his

fathers business renaming it Soon Long,
minus accents, in an effort to Anglicise it.
His wife, Dinhs mother, still lives in the
house, although all of his children except
for Dinh have moved overseas.
The House
Still possessing many of its original
design elements, the house has two
residential floors with identical floor
plans three bedrooms and a kitchen on
each, one for each of the original owners
wives. The ground floor was the workers
quarters, which the authorities took over
from 1975 to 1986, forcing the family into
the upper levels. To this day, the house is
split into two residential addresses.
The 800sqm structure is made of
stone, in a style that has held up well
over time. Stepping inside, you feel a
tangible chill in the air. Although many
of the structural elements have fallen into
disrepair to the point that the company
in discussions to purchase it intends to
tear it down they still communicate the
aura of the house, an aura that has taken
inspiration from every part of the last
century of its existence. Ed Weinberg
The From Saigon blog is at from-saigon.
tumblr.com. Site selection and guidance comes
from Tim Doling. To see his work on the history
of Vietnam, go to historicvietnam.com
HCMC
TOKYO BBQ
JAPANESE BARBECUE
15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2527
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this
a great drinking and dining
venue
WARDA
MIDDLE-EASTERN
71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3822
info@wardavn.com
The deep colours, Arabic dcor and cushioned outdoor
terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.
The food is good, too, taking
in tabouleh, houmous, falafel
and mutabbal, shwarmas
and more. Sells authentic
shisha.
Wrap & Roll

3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.
YAMANEKO
JAPANESE / OKINAWA
(08) 3823 8433
yamanekovn.com
Funky Yamaneko down an
alley off Le Thanh Ton offers delicious, unpretentious
Okinawan fare alongside
mainland staples. Does a
great set lunch deal.
YU CHU
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 3520 9999
Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles,
fresh dim sum and hot wok
dishes within an impeccably
designed open kitchen, as
diners look on. Stylish and
spectacular.
Fitness, Dance & Yoga

ANUPA YOGA
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2394
anupa.net/yoga-anupa
CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE
FITNESS CENTRE
Queen Ann Building, 2830
32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
5999
Cfyc.com.vn
NUTRIFORT
GENERAL FITNESS
2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8560
nutrifort.com
Offers fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. There is also a
spa and a restaurant serving
caloriecalibrated meals.
RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH

CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033
SAIGON FITNESS CO.
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
SHERATON FITNESS
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

3824 1555
THE LANDMARK CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext. 176
In addition to the squash
court, facilities include a
fullyequipped gym room, a
rooftop swimming pool and
separate male and female
saunas.
Galleries
BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART
GALLERY
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 3695
bluespacearts.com
DOGMA
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese
propaganda art and a collection put together over the
last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the
majority of the work comes
from the war period when
provocative poster art was
used to inspire and motivate.
Sells prints of the originals
and related products.
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS

MUSEUM
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 4441
baotangmythuattphcm.vn
PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3181
07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 3166
phuongmaigallery.com

Groceries, Liquor & Wine
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

(08) 3822 9332
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from
the likes of Fauchon. The
deli upstairs in the Hai Ba
Trung branch serves tasty
baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free
WiFi, and offers probably
the best selection of cheese
and cured meats in town.
Free delivery for Districts 1,
2 and 3.
BACCHUS CORNER
WINE SHOP
158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 3306
bacchuscorner.com
A range of spirits, whiskies
and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over
the world with an especially
good selection from France,
Chile and South Africa. Also
has an excellent range of
single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an onsite
wine tasting machine, the
Enomatic, the first of its kind
in Vietnam.
DALOC
WINE SHOP
74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 5404 3575
daloc.vn
KIM HAI BUTCHERS
BUTCHERS
73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 4376
kimhai.vn
PHUONG HA
GROCERS
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 1318
RED APRON
WINE SHOP
22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 0021
THAI HA
GROCERS
60 Ham Nghi, Q1
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE SHOP
(08) 3825 8826
One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition
to their excellent range of
wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled min-
HCMC
A World
of
Good
Its Time For Beneficiaries to Take a Hike
ll industries have their

impenetrable jargon and
Orwellian weirdness and
nonprofits are no different (ack,
synergise learnings!). But theres one
word in particular that makes me grit my
teeth. Its time to lose beneficiaries for
once and for all. No really; all of them.
First lets define beneficiary. The
Oxford English Dictionary says noun
(plural beneficiaries) a person who derives
advantage from something, especially a
trust, will, or life insurance policy. This
isnt about semantics because I think the
use of the word beneficiaries underpins
everything that is wrong in aid and
development work. Its reductionist,
patronising and worse, smug.
Derives advantage is where Im
going with this. People in communities
who receive tents and blankets and
packets of noodles after a flood are not
deriving any advantage. There may be
some comfort to receiving a blanket,
a tent and a pack of instant noodles
(keeping warm, staying dry and avoiding
hunger), but the larger point is that this
community didnt choose to be flooded
out; that village didnt ask to have their
homes and livelihoods destroyed. They
likely asked for a reasonable response

time and government assurances that
clean-up and recovery procedures would
begin the moment it was physically and
geographically possible.
Disaster survivors (note the language;
never victims please) are forced into
a position of weakness or inferiority
because their house blew away or their
crops were eaten by locusts. Those
handing out the emergency supplies
are automatically in a position of
superiority as they hurry to save people
and distribute aid. When outsiders come
rushing in to help, previously functioning
communities turn into beneficiaries. What
isnt taken into account is a populations
natural resilience, inherent local
knowledge and existing skill sets.
What People Actually Need

Instead, folks become the recipients of
assistance or captured populations
where agencies cultivate beneficiary
voice. Im all for feedback, but I prefer
plain speaking in a community and
asking them what they feel they need as
a solution to a particular problem theyve
identified. My favourite aid story involves
war in Eritrea and a shipment of seven
By Dana McNairn
truckloads of expired aspirin tablets that

took six months to burn.
Lets say a development agency wants
to do education and thats awesome,
as bicycles, uniforms and scholarships
are distributed according to need. So
far so good. But did anyone ask those
beneficiaries what might be needed first? It
could turn out that what was needed first
was sex-segregated toilets at the school
with locking doors, so that girls could
attend during their menstrual period
and not be harassed and assaulted in the
bushes while urinating or defecating. Its
bad enough not being listened to, but its
worse not even being asked.
Lets stop congratulating ourselves on
needs assessments or baseline surveys
that are participatory (who else are
you going to talk to?) and start talking
about and with our collaborators
in community development and social
justice.
My younger sister is nodding her head.
Thats what Ive been trying to tell you
for years, she says.
Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a
nonprofit social enterprise and vocational
training programme for at-risk youth. She can
be contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au
HCMC
eral water and spirits.
VEGGYS
GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8526
VINIFERA
WINE SHOP
7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0860
viniferavn.com
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP
74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6299 1315
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines.
Also offers regular popular
wine courses. The outdoor
terrace area is the perfect
spot to sample a new vintage.
Hairdressers
VENUS
41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3829 6298
Medical & Dental

ACCADENT
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com
CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI)
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic
provides general practice
and a range of specialties
including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and
traditional medicine.
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.
FV SAIGON CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6290 6167
fvhospital.com
Stateoftheart medical
centre located in District
1. Experienced American,
French, and Vietnamese
doctors provide the full
spectrum health care. Plus
sports medicine, cosmetic
treatments, skin care and
surgical consultations.
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3827 6999
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic
offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to
treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and
facial care team. The clinic
utilises the latest therapies.

WESTCOAST INTL DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL
CLINIC
Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6999
The Practice, Level 1, 71-79
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
6777
westcoastinternational.com
An international dental clinic
equipped with the latest
technology, the comfortable
clinics offer cosmetic and
implant dentistry with a focus on making each patients
experience anxiety and pain
free.
Salons & Spas

AQUA DAY SPA
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
aquadayspasaigon.com
FAME NAILS SALON

3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909
682 827
famenails.com
GLOW SPA
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8368
glowsaigon.com
Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages
lasting from 30 minutes, to
two-hour hot stone therapy,
includes one suite with a
Jacuzzi bath; offers hand
and foot care and a hair
styling area.
INDOCHINE SPA
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a
peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic
scents and lulling melodies.
Customers are pampered
by qualified therapists using
natural French products in
a clean and pleasant environment.
JASMINE
(08) 3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
Sparelated salon with a

good reputation for quality
and comfort offers washes
and leisurely haircuts from
VND330,000 plus a range of
related services including
massage and some excellent treatments.
MEKONG BLISS SPA

112, Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
6299 0563
10am to 10pm (last booking
9.30pm)
Q SPA & SALON

31Q Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3905 4609
Qspaandsalon.com
An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with
wooden floors, flowers and
flowing drapes makes this
an excellent atmosphere in
which to enjoy a massage.
Also offers hair styling and
facials.
ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Specialising in all forms of
skincare, this is welldesigned, ambient and outfitted
day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and
foot treatments.
SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND

HEALTH CLUB
3rd Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3520 9999
THANH SANCTUARY
Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
0885
THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL

CLUB
22nd floor, Sailing Tower,
111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
2220 2600
spa1960.vn
THE SPA
Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu
Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3514 9007
Saigon Centre, 3M Floor,
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
1800
thespavietnam.com
THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
XUAN SPA
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
1234
hyattpure.com
simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
Food Promos
Pizza at the Park Hyatt
Pizza Party!
@ Opera, Park Hyatt Saigon
parkhyattsaigon.com
To celebrate May flowers, Park Hyatts
Opera restaurant is offering a new pizza
menu called #OperaPizzaCraze. Yes, these
are pizzas built for sharing, on social media
or IRL (in real life). These are gourmet
pizzas in head-spinning variety, from the
burrata and black pepper to the puttanesca
sauce and sauted prawn. Come with
an empty stomach, and leave with a 20
percent off coupon towards your next pizza
pig-out!
Mothers Day... For Some

@ InterContinental Asiana Saigon
icasianasaigon.com
Its a bit confusing, but for all the
Americans, Germans, Latvians,
Curacaoans, Cypriots, Aussies and
Vietnamese out there (sorry mums) this
May 11 is Mothers Day, and Market 39
would like to take you on a culinary trip
around the world. Seafood, salads, savoury
meats and decadent desserts are all on
offer, along with free flow Veuve Clicquot
champagne this Mothers Day Brunch
priced at VND1,599,000++. Or join the
second shift for a buffet dinner, minus
the Veuve, priced at VND1,098,000++.

Cupcakes to follow.
Down to the River... With Mom!

@ Renaissance Riverside Hotel
renaissance-saigon.com
At the Riverside Caf Mom can embrace
her classiness, all brunch long. And, with
a table of four or more, Riverside will
pick up the tab, and lay down a glass of
champagne. The rate of VND1 million for
food only, VND1.3 million for free flow
of sparkling and house wines, beer and
cocktails is happening all brunch and
dinner long, this May 11.
For Moms Who Like Seafood

@ Mvenpick Saigon
moevenpick-saigon.com
Seafood Night has become something of
a tradition at Mvenpick Saigon and
moms, theyve heard your stomachs
rumbling. For one night only, Seafood
Night is back on, with an array of fresh
seafood, carving stations and a welldeserved dessert corner. Moms, tell
your sons and daughters to shell out
VND880,000++ and take advantage of
the good karma youve been building up
all year.
Chit Chat with Mom

@ Hotel Equatorial
hcm.equatorial.com
Mom can never make up her mind, can
she? Well, give her some choice this
Mothers Day when you take her to
Equatorial a traditional brunch buffet
at Chit Chat, with a free flow of that white
wine she sometimes indulges in (not to
mention red wine, beer and soft drinks)
VND690,000++ per person. Or take her
to Orientica for all she can eat dim sum
VND338,000++ per person. The cute little
gift at the end might not make her day
its your sweet thoughts that did that
but it cant hurt anyway.
Mothers Day Massage

@ Caravelle
caravellehotel.com
Do something different for Mothers Day
with nearly three hours of pampering at
Kara Salon & Spa at the Caravelle. For
VND2,177,000 available all through the
month Mom will get 50 minutes of body
scrubbing, an hour of aromatherapy and
another hour of foot reflexology or manipedi. Youre a good kid, and you dont
want Mom to gain weight just to make you
feel like one.
HCMC
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
pham ngu lao
Bakeries / Bars & Clubs / Cafes / Clothing

& Accessories / Crafts & Furniture / Eat /
Galleries
Bakeries
CRUMBS
BAKERY
117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 1992
crumbs.com.vn
Dubbed the local bakery,
Crumbs serves up a variety
of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and
garlicbased buns and loafs,
meatfilled pastries, sweet
pastries, healthconscious
breads and more. There is
also a breakfast menu and
variety of sandwiches available.
TOUS LES JOURS
KOREAN BAKERY
(08) 3914 4350
Bars & Clubs

BIA TUOI 33
BIA HOI
33 Bui Vien, Q1
BREAD & BUTTER
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT
FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8452
With a free book exchange,
and tasty Sunday night
roasts, the tiny Bread &
Butter is a perfect place for
homesick expats and beer
enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served
here exclusively in Ho Chi
Minh City).
GO2
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 9575
GODMOTHER BAR
RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE /
WESTERN
3832 4589
godmothersaigon.com
Only a couple blocks from
the bru-haha of Bui Vien,
Godmothers is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent
mojitos, good food, and the
weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJs.
LE PUB
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
Tel: (08) 3837 7679
Warm colors, artsy dcor
and a friendly ambiance
combine to create a perfect
setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese

cuisine. Check out their daily
drink specials and Tuesday
night pub quizzes.
LONG PHI
FRENCH / RESTOBAR
3837 2704
French-run but universally
appealing, Long Phi has been
serving the backpacker area
with excellent cuisine and
occasional live music since
1990. Excellent late-night
bistro cuisine.
SEVENTEEN SALOON
THEMED MUSIC BAR

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
Wild West-themed bar
doubles as a music venue,
where three talented Filipino
bands (B&U, Wild West and
Most Wanted) play covers of
rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2
and Guns n Roses. Top shelf
spirits and friendly, hostess
style table service are the
name game here.
SPOTTED COW
INTERNATIONAL / SPORT
3920 7670
Alfrescosgroup.com
Spotted Cow delivers the
fun-loving atmosphere that
its playfully decorated black
and white spotted interior
promises, as well as decent
international comfort food,
a range of happy hours, live
sports, and darts.
THE OBSERVATORY
BAR, ART & MUSIC SPACE

Cnr. Le Lai and Ton That
Tung, Q1, Tel: 0906 359440
theobservatory-hcmc.com
The Observatory is DJ Hibiya Line's new youth culture
hub, just off Pham Ngo Lao.
With its two-floor, nook-andcranny setup, it combines
caf culture, cocktails, art,
DJ nights now the home
base for the Optimist Club
live music and various "happenings", sprinkling them
throughout its cozy corners.
THI CAF
LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE

224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2929
T&R TAVERN
DIVE BAR
57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 9839
UNIVERSAL BAR
BUDGET CLOTHING
3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019
PAPAYA
Cafes
ORANGE
BOBBY BREWERS
INTERNATIONAL
3920 4090
bobbybrewers.com
Choose from a full range
of caf beverages and a
fast-food style menu as you
watch the latest Hollywood
hits in their upstairs lounge.
Check website for movie locations and schedule.
CHICCO DICAFF CAF
ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE

213 Bui Vien, Q1
facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee
Set just off the street on the
quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco
Dicaff serves an expat and
local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured
concoctions, from a five-seat
coffee bar.
INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.

BAM SKATE SHOP
SKATEWEAR / STREET
174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903
641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BLUE DRAGON
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2084
8am to 10.30pm
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
6270 5928
TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
MARGHERITA
BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
papaya-tshirt.com
BUDGET CLOTHING
3820 2620
9am to 10pm
U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:
0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com
Crafts & Furniture

SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 9780
Eat
BABAS KITCHEN

3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian
does the full range of fare
from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka
masala, kormas, kebabs and
fiery vindaloos.
Burrito Revolution
TEX-MEX / STREET STALL

714882
CHIS CAF
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable caf is a rarity
in the backpacker area for
its genuinely good musical
playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked
potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a
popular motorbike rental
service.
CORIANDER
THAI / VIETNAMESE
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837
1311
JJs Fish n Chips
FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL

Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De
Tham, Q1
a sidewalk drinking joint

by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.
ITALIAN / TEX-MEX
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
Sisters Cafe
MARATHON
LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR

343933
universalbarsaigon.com
LA CANTINA
VIETNAMESE/WESTERN
Tel: 0903 643446
Light wood paneling, beige
walls and locally themed
artwork help to create a
fresh and airy ambience in
this caf-cum-restaurant
that is owned by the woman
behind Chis Caf. Also does
visa extensions and motorbike rental.
THE HUNGRY PIG
BACON BAR / CAFE

3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and
more bacon, all set in airy,
spacious atmosphere, and
you get The Hungry Pig, an
eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty
through to the bacon Caesar.
A popular hangout.
TIN NGHIA
VEGAN
(08) 3821 2538
One of the citys oldest eateries (established in 1925)
does some of the cheapest
and tastiest vegan cuisine in
town, all cooked up without
onions, garlic or MSG.
Wrap & Roll

226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check
out the second floor, junglein-the-wall dcor at this
particular branch. Unique
and refreshing.
Galleries
GALERIE QUYNH
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8019
galeriequynh.com
In addition to working with
artists based in Vietnam,
Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from
around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports
education through talks, lectures and publications.

Tattoo Artists
With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over
the past few years there
has been an increase in
the number of tattoo studios around the city.
Customers have the
choice of picking their
own tattoo out of the
many look books on offer
in the studios or bringing
in their own design. Most
of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.
Pricing depends on size
and style.
Lac Viet Tattoo 608
Dien Bien Phu, Q10

Tel: (08) 3830 4668
106 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: (08) 3821 7068
lacviettattoo.com
Saigon Body Art
135 Cong Quynh, Q1

Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com
Saigon Ink
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1

Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com
Saigon Tattoo
31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net
Saigon Tattoo Group

81 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn
Tattoo Saigon
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1

Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com
Tattoo Tam Bi
209 Bui Vien, Q1

Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat.com
Zeus
GREEK / KEBAB
3837 3248
ZOOM CAF
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures.
com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a caf
and restaurant by day and

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
district 1
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
Bars & Clubs / Books / Cafes / Clothing & Accessories

/ Cooking Classes / Crafts & Furniture / Eat /
Fitness, Dance & Yoga / Galleries / International
Schools / Medical & Dental / Salons & Spas
CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL

37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1,
Tel: 0906 780081
CHILL SKYBAR
LOUNGE RESTOBAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
Chills view has only been
improved by the addition of
a magnificent VIP terrace.
A substantial wine list and
specialities from the owners
native Denmark complement
the primarily French-influenced cuisine.
HOA VIEN
CZECH BREWHOUSE
3825 8605
hoavien.vn
MZ CLUB
LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB

56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 5258
m-zing.com
Shooters Beer House

31 Le Quy Don, Q1
Vuvuzela

11 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3910 2281
Books
Librairie Francaise Nam
Phong
82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 7858
Nam Phong Bookstore was
founded at the of end 2002 in
Ho Chi Minh City as the first
and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.
Only books written in French
are for sale, covering for all
ages and tastes. A catalogue
is available at namphongsaigon.com
Cafes
(a) cafe
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da
Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,

Q1, Tel: 01699 990003
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
A small but swanky cafe,
Banksy promises a young
and vibrant hideout in an
old 1960s-era apartment
building. Remember to head
up the steep stairs within to
dig into their secret stash of
clothes and accessories.
Cafe Thoai Vien

159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: 0918 115657
cafethoaivien.com
Veer off the street and find
yourself plunging straight
into lush greenery. Cafe
Thoai Vien serves up a
spacious and airy setting
to enjoy a quiet sip. From
small eats to big bites and
everything to drink, its a
great place to unwind from
all that buzz.
INTERNATIONAL
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3833 3648
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
DECIBEL
INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense,
this two-floor, relaxed caf
offers beautiful decor and
unique original events like
live music, film screenings,
and art exhibits. Great prices
and food with daily specials.
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH
97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3844 3295
saigongivral.com
KEM NHAN
ICE CREAM PARLOUR

4 Truong Han Sieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6674 6763
LE PETIT CAF
BOSSINI
CHILDRENS PLANET
CHILDRENS CLOTHING
90 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08)
3820 9881
childrenplanet.com.vn
DBLANC
WOMENS CLOTHING
89A Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 5164
d-blanc.com
GAYA CLOTHING
2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,

Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
Fancy being served up by
maids in costume? Call for
a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking
while spending an afternoon
in this candy-land inspired
cafe.
HAND-MADE / DESIGNER
Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van
Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925
1495
Gayavietnam.com
Clothing is designed and
tailor-made by renowned
designer Romyda Keth, and
concentrates mainly on
womens wear. Gaya sells
colourful, sexy evening
dresses, embroidered floral
skirts and cute chiffon tops.
Things Cafe
THUY NGA DESIGN

BOO
STREETWEAR
134 Nguyen Trai, Q1
boo.vn
Huu
C
Ng
uy
en
g
Ng
.H
ue
Ham Nghi
District 2
t
Kie
District 4
Vo
Mockingbird Cafe
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,

Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
Feel the calm and serenity
of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old
Apartment. The quaint and
relaxing atmosphere sets for
some alone time, or quality
conversations held over a
drink or two.
cT
ha
n
ng
n
Va
FRENCH
112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6291 2067
The Other Person Cafe
Th
an
g8
UNISEX CASUAL WEAR

22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3839 2292
Bossini.com
4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,

Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
Sitting atop of a number of
cafe establishments in an old
apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a
romantic time over mojitos,
or good ol caffeine-infused
relaxation.
Du
Th
i
Le
ng
LAN MIEN DINING CAFE
76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
2718
The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of
this popular, contemporary
caf. Enjoy live music on
weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese
or espresso-based coffee.
Du
Ng
uy
en
Ma
Tr
u
Le
Lo
i
District
10
an
n
Bi
e
ie
n
Ca
ch
Kh
ai
Ph
Beer and Grill (BG Saigon)
Banksy Cafe
District 3
Ba
h
an
Da
o
QUAN NHAU
18A/31/B22 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, Q1
Ha
i
Hu
ng
ANH DUCS
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben
Thanh Market, i.d offers
casual caf dining with a
wide variety of food and
beverages. Where modern
design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.
Tr
an

79 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, Tel:
0919 584884
info@ahoybeerclub.vn
I.D. CAF
To
n
Ho
Ahoy Beer Club
Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews
in Saigon. Using own grown
and specially sourced Dalat
beans, speciality coffee such
as cold drip, siphon, and
Chemex are must haves for
the avid coffee drinker.
an
g
in
h
en
Ti
Bars & Clubs
Binh Thanh
in
h
BUSINESSWEAR / CASUAL
19-21 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3820 3574
thuyngadesign.com
8am to 8pm
Cooking Classes
OVERLAND CLUB
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm
The Overland Club organises
pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
monthly special activities,
such as the Soba Festival,

pottery painting classes, the
art of decorating paper and
multinational cuisine days.
Crafts & Furniture

GAYA
CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 1495
gayavietnam.com
Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II
buildings in the city, Gaya has
a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps
and tableware, with all products both constructed and
designed locally. You can
find a wide range of mirrors
and lacquerware with bowls,
vases and contemporary
Asian-style boxes as well as
a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all
colours and designs. Prices
here match the quality of the
products.
VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN
DECO / REPRO FURNITURE

152 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925
3648
verlimdesign.com
Eat
BANH XEO 46A
BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE

46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 1110
CAF IF
VIETNAMESE FRENCH
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3846 9853
MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a
French twist, cooked fresh
to order. Dishes include noo-
dle soup, steamed ravioli and

beef stew, stir fries, hot pots
and curries.
Cobalt
ROOFTOP RESTOBAR
Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon
Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686
pullman-saigon-centre.com
A tapas-style contemporary
international menu in an
equally modern chic space,
Cobalt also has panoramic
views over the city thanks to
its 30th-floor location. Has a
focus on wine matching and
tasting. A hotel restaurant
with a difference.
COM TAM THUAN KIEU
COM TAM (BITTY RICE)

26 Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 0935
comtamthuankieu.com.vn
DYNASTY
CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Elegant surroundings, top
quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable,
roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese
restaurants in town, with a
classic dim sum menu.
LION CITY
SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery,
plating up the likes of nasi
lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well
as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish
HCMC
head curry.
MAY RESTAURANT
INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE
3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08)
3910 1277
May-cloud.com
Meaning Cloud, May utilises homemade recipes
and broths developed by the
restaurateurs father, such
as pan-fried duck breast
served with nuoc mam and
ginger, and 1940s style
spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in
an Indochine atmosphere.
MONSOON
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)
6290 8899
Traditional pan-Southeast
Asian favourites served in
a visually arresting setting
within a French colonial-era
villa, just minutes from the
backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy
juices and smoothies.
NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE
AMERICAN / FRENCH
2527 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373
steakhouse.com.vn
NYSW is well known for
serving up formidable prime
signature cuts of New York
strip steak, rib eye, double
strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.
PARKVIEW
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Flagship restaurant of The
New World Hotel, serving
lavish buffets all day. Many
cooking stations ranging
from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads,
cold cuts, cheese plates and
desserts.
PHAP HOA
VEGETARIAN
3839 5893
QUAN BUI
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3602 2241
Make sure to try the sauted
shrimps with cashew nuts
and crispy fried tofu with
lime wedge, at this popular,
high-quality eatery where all
food is served in traditional
crockery.
TAN HAI VAN
PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES
3925 0824
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH

DAN
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3821 7751
VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE

TRAINING AND TRANSLATION
37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel:

08-66780914
mail@vnccent
STAR FITNESS GYM
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91
Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253
Steve Chipman, who had a
hand in establishing gyms
at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness one of
Vietnams largest and bestequipped gyms.
THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & POOL

Ruby Towers Saigon
Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514
9009
saigonriverclub.com
Galleries
CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel:
0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Located in a quiet corner
of District 1, Craig Thomas
Gallery offers a compelling
mix of up-and-coming and
established local artists. In
operation since 2009, its
founder has been promoting
Vietnamese art for a decade.
SAN ART
3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel:
(08) 3840 0183
San-art.org
San Art is an independent,
artist-run exhibition space
that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an
exchange programme that
invites international artists/
curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
CITYSMART
Horizon Tower, 214 Tran
Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3526 8833
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational
programmes, as well as life
skills and character building
for comprehensive development.
GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF

VIETNAM
Somerset Chancellor Court,
1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
7008
gymboreeclasses.com.vn
VAS
23 Tran Cao Van, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 7278
vas.edu.vn
re.com
Medical
& Dental
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 4545
Well-regarded clinic offering
general examinations and
specialising in pediatrics,
digestive diseases, cardiology, womens health and
internal medicine. Offers a
membership programme
and cooperates with most
insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.
WE LINK
COUNSELLING
64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 2900
contact@welink.vn
Psychological counselling services for individual,
group and family. Diverse
counsellors and therapists,
using Cognitive Behaviour
Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For
adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French
and Spanish spoken.
Salons & Spas
CAT MOC SPA

63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)
6295 8926
catmocspa.com
Aimed exclusively at ladies
and couples only, treatments
at this Japanese spa include
facial, body and foot care,
and Japanese-style haircuts,
as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.
SPA TROPIC
79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910

5575
spatropic.com
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean
Consulate. Spa Tropic has
a long-standing reputation
among expats and visitors
alike for its professional
quality service.
HCMC
Home dcor orders are also
available.
district 2
DISTRICT 2
g
H n
Ni
H
h
Bn
Thao Dien
i
Qu
Ng
uy
n
V
n
Xa
Binh Thanh
Ngu
o
ng
c H
Qu
n
N
Xun Th
BAKERY
Tel: (08) 6281 8392
The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien,
Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries
such as croissants, pain au
chocolat, pain raisins, pizza
dough, pates feuillete and
much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc,
Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and
Ho Chi Minh City.
LOAVES & FISHES
BAKERY / CAFE
5, Street 11, Thao Dien, Q2
Tel: (08) 3519 4118
harvestbaking.net
PAT A CHOU
FRENCH BAKERY
25 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3743 2445

VOELKER
BAKERY
6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
Frenchrun bakery selling
probably the tastiest range
of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passionfruit tart is
a must try.
Bars & Clubs

BAAN THAI
SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE
Xa
DISTRICT 2
3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
A bar and a Thai restaurant
all in one, the focus here is
not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live
sports. Lots of live sports.
The Thai cuisine is cooked
up by no-holds-barred Thai
chefs.

BMV PUB & GRILL

38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel:
01299 839314
facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill
With its seven TVs, full-size
mezzanine area, pool table
and aircon lounge space,
BMV is the perfect place in
District 2 to relax and watch
the sports. Has live music on
Thursday and Friday nights,
and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in
Thao Dien.
BUDDHA BAR
RESTOBAR
3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
Just across the lane from
McSorleys, this pub with an
eccentric European tilt and
some nice, authentic cuisine
draws an older crowd with
darts, pool and weekly poker
tourneys.
MCSORLEYS
IRISH BAR
4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126
9026006
Standing in the former home
of Gaudi, McSorelys is full of
surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool,

reggae parties, comedy
nights, and sporting events
projected onto the patio wall.
SAIGON OUTCAST
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAF BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com
Up-cycling and innovative
design form the foundation
for this bar / arts venue /
mini- skate park. Come for
barbeque and reasonably
priced drinks, stick around
for entertaining events and
adorable puppies.
Cafes
AGNES CAFE
COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable cafe
in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat,
smoothies, juices, pastries
and desserts all day. Offers
a western-fare breakfast,
lunch and dinner menu with
a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with
salads and more typical
international cuisine. Now
open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed
and intimate.
CAF EVITA
LAID-BACK CAF / RESTAURANT

230A Nguyen Van Huong,
Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512
3888
Th
Tr
BAKEUP ATELIER
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Hu Cnh
Bakeries
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Song H
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No
Trn
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Song H
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Xa
Mai Ch
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Binh Thanh
HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese
furniture brand is a good
choice for most families
with its respected high-quality designs and competitive
prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and
Dien Bien Phu, the spacious
showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such
as table sets, shelves and
kitchen cabinets. There is a
large selection of carpets as
well as numerous choices of
curtains and accessories.
FEELING TROPIC
Th
y
Xun Th
Diamond Plaza
CHI LAI
Bakeries / Bars & Clubs / Cafes / Clothing & Accessories / Crafts

& Furniture / Eat / Fitness, Dance & Yoga / Groceries, Liquor &
Wine / Hairdressers / International Schools / Medical & Dental /
Salons & Spas

LITTLE ANH-EM
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: 0917 567506
In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies
and children up to 10 years
old, Little Anh-Em stocks
sleeping bags and other accessories.
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
Crafts & Furniture

AUSTIN HOME
REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

3519 0023
Austinhomevn.blogspot.com
Located in a villa-style
building, this An Phu-based
shop stocks antique repro
furniture. All products are
samples, so its limited and
exclusive with only one or
two pieces of each particular
item. Also has a great range
of imported fabrics up on the
2nd floor and an in-house
sewing room for cushions,
sofas and curtains. Offers
custom-made furniture and
delivery within four weeks.
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181
8am to 6pm, closed Sundays
Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this
three-storey building is so
packed full of items for sale
that it doesnt seem to have
enough space for all of its
products. The basement
storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets,
while the second level stocks
all types of indoor furniture
except beds. Accessories
are found on the level above.
Special orders are taken for
delivery within three weeks.
Also offers a rental service.
THE FURNITURE HOUSE
HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643
Eat
AGNES CAF
CAF FARE / TEX-MEX

11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable caf
offering up a western-fare
breakfast, lunch and dinner
menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in
with salads and more typical
international cuisine. Open
until 10pm.
BAAN THAI
PAN-THAI
3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this
An Phu eatery. The menu
has a whole page dedicated
to tom yum soup as well
as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine
cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.
BOAT HOUSE
Shopping Malls
34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08)

3825 7750
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
Hung Vuong Plaza

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel:
(08) 2222 0383
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
Parkson Plaza
35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3827 7636
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
Saigon Centre
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)
3829 4888
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
Saigon Square
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,
Q1
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics
Saigon Tax
Trading Centre
135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3821 3849
9am to 9.30pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics, Souvenirs,
Restaurant
Vincom Center
70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3936 9999
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
Zen Plaza
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel:
(08) 3925 0339
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790
Live music, mini-festivals and
functions are regular events
at this spacious restobar in
An Phu on the banks of the
Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.
HCMC
SPORTS
La Closerie dElisa
FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT

52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2
A tropical garden ambience
that is at once French yet
contemporary Indochinese
is the home of this table
dhote style restaurant and
bar. Classic French cuisine
at reasonable prices in the
heart of Thao Dien.
LA PLANCHA
(08) 6281 8521
LU BU
Cricket
ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET
CLUB OF SAIGON)
Richard Carrington, Tel:
0909 967 353
richard.carrington@market-edge.asia
eccsaigon.com
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF

SAIGON)
Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228
770 038
deepteshgill@gmail.com
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN

SAIGON)
Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
973 244
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON

CRICKET CLUB)
Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail.
com
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA

CRICKET CLUB)
Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903
998 824
sacccricket@gmail.com
SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)
Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB)

Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908
200 598
manish@ambrij.com
Football
and
Rugby
024 or Viet Luu 0909 500

171.
astere@hotmail.fr
SAIGON RAIDERS
Saigonraiders.com
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
saigonrugbyfootballclub@
yahoo.com
SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
Sports General
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS

LEAGUE
thesidl.com
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL

CLUB
saigonshootersnetball.
blogspot.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
SQUASH
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext 176
TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

436A/33 Ba Thang Hai,
Q10, Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn
AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van

Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com
XROCK CLIMBING
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON
7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,

Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
Contact Fred on 0919 709
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08)
6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
Drawing inspiration from
the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean
and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run
restaurant bathed in white
focuses on wholesome,
fresh ingredients, with
breads, cheeses, pickles,
pastas and preserves made
on site daily from scratch. A
well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.
Has petanque on the terrace.
MEKONG MERCHANT
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE /

SEAFOOD
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6478
info@mekongmerchant.com
The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the
place in An Phu. Set around
a cobble-stoned courtyard
the cuisine includes gourmet
seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.
Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails

and a long wine list.
THE LOOP
HEALTHY CAF FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)
3602 6385

AQUAFIT
AQUABIKING
65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao
Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
008985
aquafit.vn
CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER
BOXING / FITNESS
49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel:
0947 771326
cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An Phu,
started by fitness guru Cyril
Terrones, features the same
personalised mentorship
Cyrils clients love. Includes
Zumba, salsa, boxing and
fitness for kids and adults
every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes
in installments of 10. Also
has kids classes. Boxing on
Tuesday and Saturday at
4pm and circuit training on

Thursday at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril
himself.
K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY
BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS

100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: 0909 540030
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also
offering fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving caloriecalibrated meals.
Groceries, Liquor & Wine

100%
MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES

26B Thao Dien, Q2
100percentvn.com
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2630
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and

vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from the
likes of Fauchon. The deli
upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung
branch serves tasty baguette
rolls in a comfortable lounge
area with free WiFi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured
meats in town. Free delivery
for Districts 1, 2 and 3.
CLASSIC FINE FOODS
GROCERIES & IMPORTER

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street),
Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the citys five
star hotels, also distributing
brands like San Pellegrino,
Rougie foie gras, Galbani
cheese, fresh poultries,
meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all
the products at the gourmet
shop on location.
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP
Corner of Thao Dien & Duong
2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines
with a portfolio spanning
old and new world as well
as everything in between.
The outdoor terrace area is
the perfect spot to sample a
new tipple.
PAPAGAYO
FRENCH BISTRO / COCKTAILS

(08) 6252 1333
facebook.com/papagayosaigon
TAMAGO
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag
in Thao Dien, Tamago has
indoor and out door seating,
a terrace and private rooms.
They have a ladies night on
Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on
Saturday evenings. Have a
second restaurant in Mui Ne.
THE DECK
MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon
River across from Thanh
Da Island, this innovative
restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a
HCMC
Hairdressers
ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON
HAIR & BEAUTY
Fideco Riverview Building,
3744 6475
anthony@aglondonsalon.
com.vn
CONCEPT COIFFURE
(08) 3519 4625
Conceptcoiffure.vn
Open daily from 9am to 8pm
Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship
salon Venus Coiffure to a villa
in Thao Dien. A full range of
services is offered including
a dedicated kids salon.
EUROPEAN International
School Ho Chi Minh City (EIS)
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao
Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam.
Tel: (08) 7300 7257
info@eishcmc.com
www.eishcmc.com
Located in the heart of Thao
Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School
Ho Chi Minh City offers a
supportive and challenging
academic education from
Early Years to Grade 12
based on the IB curriculum.
EIS is a Nobel Talent School
and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school
educates global citizens to
enjoy learning, inquiring and
caring for others.
AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (AIS)
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744
6960; Thu Thiem Campus,
264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West
Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International
School is an IB World School
with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering
an international education
from kindergarten to senior
school with the IB Primary
Years Programme (PYP),
Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE)
and IB Diploma Programme
(DP).
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved
by the British Government,
BIS provides a British style
curriculum for an international student body from
pre-school to Year 13. The
school is staffed by British
qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by
the Council of International
Schools and a member of
FOBISIA, BIS is the largest
international school in Vietnam.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI

MINH CITY (ISHCMC)
(08) 3898 9100
ishcmc.com
The only fully authorized IB
World School in Ho Chi Minh
City, ISHCMC has been
awarding graduates with an
IB Diploma and sending them
off to high-profile overseas
universities since 1999.
MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage childrens engagement with
their surroundings, MIS
offers children from age
three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as
a variety of extracurricular
activities.
SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL

CHILDCARE CENTRE
15 Street 12, perpendicular
to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
3740 8081
saigonkidskindergarten.
com
SKECC has evolved over 10
years to create a creative,
playful learning environment for children ages two
to six. Limited class sizes and
highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for
all students.
SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL
Residential Area No. 5,
Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge
International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates
Montessori methods into
nursery and kindergarten
programmes to create a
stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes
allow experienced teachers
to cater to individual needs.
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (BIS)
SMARTKIDS

Tel: (08) 3744 2335
1172 Thao Dien Compound,

Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare
centre provides children
ages 18 months to six years
with a high quality education
in a playful and friendly environment.
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL

OF VIETNAM
172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
theamericanschool.edu.vn

Kids
FirstBIKE Vietnam
www.firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for
two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training
wheels or stabilisers, and
support proper balance development.
Medical & Dental

3744 2000
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
GREGORY BEALE
THERAPY
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
01268 654 202
gregbealetherapyfitness.
com
Salons & Spas

AUTHENTIC SPA
Thao Dien Village, Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744
2222
AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON
104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,

Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321

simply email us on
well try our best
district 3
Bars & Clubs / Cafes & Ice-Cream / Clothing & Accessories /

Crafts & Furniture / Eat / Fitness, Dance & Yoga / Hairdressers /
International Schools / Medical & Dental / Salons & Spas
Bars & Clubs
ACOUSTIC
LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3930 2239
Though only 1km from the
city centre, Acoustic is well
off most foreigners radars.
Come see the Vietnamese
house band play nightly, as
well as performances from
overseas bands and guest
artists.
CLOUD 9
LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE

6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong
Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel:
0907 502951
CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS
LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE

224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948
031323
WOODSTOCK Bar
MUSIC BAR / CAFE

39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3.
Tel: (08) 39304075
metallicbar.com
Showcases a variety of different types of music anything from rock, pop and rap
to Latino as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica,
Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana
and Guns n Roses. Covered
live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music
starts at 8.30pm.
PLAN B
Tel: (08) 3932 2778

budsicecream.com.vn
HIDEAWAY
INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building
with an outdoor courwrd,
the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to
relax. The mouth-watering
western menu is on the expensive side.
OPERATION: TEAROOM
TEA ROOM
335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3,
Tel: 0169 3583563
operationteavietnam.com
Traverse a wooden bridge
over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000,
in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware
available for purchase.

BAM SKATE SHOP
SKATEWEAR / STREET
0903 641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BOO
STREETWEAR
187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3
boo.vn
Crafts
& Furniture
CONTEMPORARY BAR
0987 684761
ROCKFANCLUB BAR
ROCK BAR
25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08)
6290 7489
Cafes & Ice-Cream

ANS INTERIOR CAF
40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3823 3398
BUDS
ICE-CREAM PARLOUR
INDOOR FURNITURE
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com
Eat
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN / BUFFET
3820 7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Latino ambiance with great
meat dishes and attractive,
spacious dcor. The churrasco, with 12 cuts of barbecued and cured meats
plus unlimited salad, is hand
carved at your table. Can
get busy.
Banh Canh Hoang Ty
BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
Namsonsteak.com
HIGHWAY 4
NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE
3602 2069
highway4.com
Named after the mountain
highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to
the north, Highway 4 serves
up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does
excellent Son Tinh branded
rice wine.
JOIE DE VIVRE
OnTop Bar
Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba
Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822
4866
Located on the 20th floor
with stunning views of the
city, houses an upscale,
contemporary interior and
an outdoor terrace. A good
venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip
ambience.
REMIX DECO
ATC FURNITURE
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08)
39326455
SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)
38403946
atc-craft.com
Filled with the scent of
nature, is it what you are
looking for to spice up the
living space of your home?
Come to ATC FURNITURE,
you will find a wide range of
modern-designed products
(sofas, chairs, beds...) manufactured from eco-friendly
materials (water hyacinth &
rattan). Our outdoor (poly
rattan) wicker-furniture
range is suited to your balcony or garden space. A
hanging (hammock) chair
is irresistible for complete
relaxation after a long day
at work.
WESTERN / FRENCH
292/10, Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066
facebook.com/joie.vn
PHO HOA
PHO EATERY
260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3829 7943
SHRI
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower,
7274 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
A breezy terrace, indoor
bar and separate dining
room with sweeping views
over central Saigon make
up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought
out and romantic venue, with
excellent food.
SUSHI DINING AOI
SUSHI / SASHIMI
53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh
HCMC
HUE / VIETNAMESE
(08) 3829 7242
Tibrestaurant.com.vn
VIET CHAY
VEGAN
Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
vietchay.vn
Th
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BELLY DANCE
No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do
Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832
9429
saigonbellydance.com
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Hairdressers
YKC HAIR STUDIO

(08) 3829 2791
CITYSMART
7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational
programmes, as well as life
skills and character building
for comprehensive development.
VAS
98 Cach Mang Thang Tam,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278
vas.edu.vn
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YOGA
Tel: 0909 648193
michelle@michellelloyd.com
michellelloyd.com
American trained and licensed massage therapist
and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and
massage spaces in Districts
2 and 3. Private and group
yoga classes. Home visits
available.
Th
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Michelle Lloyd Yoga & Massage Therapy
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Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930

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sushidiningaoi.com
Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi,
sashimi, and other dishes
such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles
in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set
lunches. Probably the best
sushi in town.
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District 1
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INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC

MEDICAL CLINIC
Binh Thanh
Medical & Dental

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222
starlightdental.net
Longestablished, modern
clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese
dentists. A favourite of the
foreign residential community due to its modern and
effective treatments allied
with extremely reasonable
prices.
AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC
CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
A clinic provides world class
Chiropractic, Physiotherapy
and Foot Care. We specialize

in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee
pain, sports injuries, and all
types of foot problems. We
also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome
in children and adult.
INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL

CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
Globally renowned provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare
offers full dental services
in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide
high skilled dental service.
Orthodontics is also available.
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
The worlds leading provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7
emergency care. Specialist
care is available in many
fields.
STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC
(08) 3932 1090
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Medical Clinic
offers services in internal
medicine, dermatology,
aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general
medicine.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

(08) 3932 1090
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL
EASTERN MEDICINE
Tel: (08) 3932 6579
Salons & Spas

AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
YKC SPA
(08) 3829 2791
ykcspa.com
HCMC
Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277
The-crescent.com
Overlooking the Crescent
complexs lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a
gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track
their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash
courts, pool, steam bath and
nutrition bar.
phu my hung
Bakeries / Bars & Clubs / Crafts & Furniture / Eat / Fitness, Dance
& Yoga / International Schools / Medical & Dental
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PANORMA FITNESS
L in
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Ng
Nguyn Vn Linh
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Tr
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ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
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INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS

206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel:
01654 058401 / 01629
546534
cezsaigon@gmail.com
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DISTRICT 7
2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son,

Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, Tel:
(08) 5431 1833
theabcis.com
Serving students from 32
nations, ages two to 18, ABC
delivers a curriculum wholly
based on UK standards, culminating in IGCSEs and A
levels (awarded upon graduation by Cambridge University examinations board).
PHU MY HUNG
Bakeries
LAMOUR
BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn
SAVOURE
BAKERY
Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7
SIMRANS
BAKERY
SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908
828552
simrans.sg
Bars & Clubs

BANANA BAR
EXPAT BAR
SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3282
A downstairs pool table, an
open, street side terrace and
specials on Tiger draft, this
fun but slightly run-down
joint is a local haunt for many
a resident of Saigon South.
PEACHES
CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
0999
Known as the Curry Pub,
this pleasant Saigon South
watering hole mixes the beer
with all things curry anything from Goan fish curries
to beef rendangs and more.
A popular local haunt.
RUBY SOHO
CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 3900
THE TAVERN
EXPAT & SPORTS BAR
R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang
Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
3900
The first bar established in
Saigon South, great food,
great music and loads of
laughs. Has regular live
music nights, theme nights
and a variety of live sports
events to please everybody.
Big screens and outdoor
seating add to the mix, with
BBQs available for parties
and events.

Crafts & Furniture
BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton
Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413
7355
bellavitafurniture.com
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110; S17 Sky
Garden, Nguyen Van Linh,
Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758
mekong-creations.org
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen
Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271
7758
mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6657
www.nhaxinh.com
Eat
BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON
INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and
bar on The Crescent with
great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned
international fare, all set in
a contemporary, spacious
environment.
CHAM CHARM
LUXURY INDOCHINA
2 Phan Van Chuong, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 9999
EL GAUCHO
Unit CR1-12, The Crescent,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304
MING DYNASTY
LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE

23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 5555

NATHALIES
THAI / VIETNAMESE
S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 0822
nathaliesrestaurant.com
SALT & PEPPER
CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
13C Phong Phu Commune,
Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412
3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam
serves local and foreign
students from Kindergarten
to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the
internationally recognised
Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting
academic excellence.
KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE
PAN-ITALIAN
The Crescent, Phu My Hung,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 4848
Crescent Residence 2, 107

Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907
099 480
kindermusik-vietnam.com
SCOTT AND BINHS
LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL

KINDERGARTEN
INTERNATIONAL
15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948
901465
bizuhotel.com/main/pages/
scottbinhs.php
Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this
restaurant boasts a full bar,
ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus
on the creative use of local
ingredients.

CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My
102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung,

Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052
lgkids.vn
Renaissance International
School Saigon
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7,
Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext
120/121/122
renaissance.edu.vn
Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum
based upon the British curriculum complemented by
the International Primary
Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a
family school with first-class
facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool,
mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and

drama rooms, science labs
and an all-weather pitch.
SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (SSIS)
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
Offers an American-style
education (SAT, IB and AP)
from elementary to highschool, emphasizing a multicultural student environment and a commitment to
wellrounded education at
all levels.
Medical & Dental
American Eye Center

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7
Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759
www.americaneyecentervn.
com
American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My
Hung, providing eye care
services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist
with 17 years of experience.
The American-standard
facility is equipped with
state of the art equipments
for the early detection and
treatment of important eye
diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic
eye disease treatments.
Cosmetic procedures such
as eyelid surgery and Botox
injections are also available.
FV HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 3333
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital
whose standard of health
care matches that found
anywhere, with 19 fulltime
French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing
expertise in 30 medical and
surgical areas, especially
maternity care.
HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,
Tel: 0906 684 969
simply email us on
well try our best
chng cng tm ra c mi lin quan gia bi

tp v nh v im s, Joe cho hay.
Mt s ngi khng ngh hc sinh lp nm c
th kham c mn th thao ny. Ti vn lo lng
i cht v ci tnh nguy him ca mn ny. V
Diu, Trng Khi 5 ti chi nhnh Bnh Thnh cho
hay.
Nhng nim am m v phng chm an ton
l trn ht ca Joe thuyt phc c h. Cui
cng th mi ngi cng nht tr, Joe cho chng ti
thy anh c kh nng iu hnh ci cu lc b ny,
c cho hay. Cha c chn thng no xut hin t
lc n c thnh lp ti gi.
Joe pht nh ch i vi cc hc sinh ph lut,
c bit l lin quan ti vn an ton. Nhiu hc
sinh khc lc khi chng khng c luyn tp
trong mt ngy, anh k. Cc hnh vi sai tri t khi
xy ra ln th hai. n nam sinh nh gi qu cao
mn th thao ny.
Nh V ch Tng Lai
u Vt
Trong Hc ng
Ti mt trng quc t Tp. H Ch Minh, mt truyn
thng mi ang pht trin lin quan n vic chun b
k cng, kh nhc luyn tp v nghim khc vi bn thn.
Hnh nh bi Kyle Phanroy
t m hc sinh nam lp 5 chc nch

ang luyn tp hnh lang vi y cc
tm thm dy, cao vt tri hn l v
hun luyn vin. chnh gia, c hai
cu b ang u vt nhau. Rt nhanh, mt c h
thp ngi, v lng ca mt cu b p nh nhng
xung nm. Vi vi ng tc chn tay ngu nhin,
cu b nm bn di khng c kh nng thot.
Nhn ka! Mt c vt ng bng hai chn hon
ho! Mc d ti cha dy ng tc ny! hun
luyn vin Joe Deka cho hay.
l bui luyn tp vo gi tra th Su trong
lp u Vt Phng Ty ca trng Quc T
Vit-c v dng nh l n v u tin trong
h thng trng quc t thnh ph p dng
chng trnh ny.
Trng khuyn khch cc gio vin thc hin
cc chng trnh ngoi kha. Bit c iu ny
vo ngy u tin dy ting Anh chi nhnh
Bnh Thnh vo thng Mt, Joe t hi khng bit

hot ng c o no m anh c th lm cho
chng trnh. Hai a nh gn ang vt ln
nhau cht lm anh ny sinh ra mt tng. L
mt vt thi trung hc Indiana, M, v cu
thy qun lc chin ny cha bao gi ht am m
vi th thao.
Chng ti truyn cm hng cho hc sinh
bng nim am m ca chng ti, anh ni.
Nhng Cn Thn
Nhng u vt ? Anh nghi ng. Ti hu nh

hi hn tc th. Vit Nam, ch u vt biu din
WWE mi c a chung.
Trng yu cu anh cho thy ci li ch rn
luyn tnh cch ca mn ny i vi hc sinh.
Ti mun chng hc t u vt rng sing nng
cn mn lun c n p, s lin quan gia
luyn tp, chun b v thnh cng. Ti hy vng
Mc d trng c t nhiu lo lng, mn u vt vn

thu ht hc sinh. S lng ng k tham gia vt
qua con s 20 hc sinh gii hn cho mi cu lc b
ch trong mt gi ng h, c c n sinh, v mt vi
hc sinh c a vo danh sch ch.
Nhng tay u vt ny rt yu thch lp hc,
nhng nhn xt ca chng cho thy chng yu
nhiu th no v Joe gy c nh hng ln
chng trong hai thng luyn tp.
iu thch nht ca lp hc l hc nhng k
thut mi v nhng bn nhc ca thy Deka. C
th trong tng lai em s dy con em v gia nh em
sau ny, V, 11 tui, hc vin ca lp k.
Long, 10 tui, th n gin ni: Em mun tr
thnh vt nh thy Deka. Nhng hc sinh khc
cng reo h ng .
Th v S Tht L
Lp bt u bng mn dn c. m tr qu phn
khch trong nhng bi hc u tin, v nhanh
chng vo v tr. Bi tp tp trung chng, Joe h
ho v ht, m hc sinh c ng tp gp bng v
chng y.
Bui luyn tp cha y ting ci tr em v
nhng ting ht hnh phc, Joe minh ha cc k
thut trc khi cc em c bt cp, thc hin mt
hai ng tc, Joe i vng vng, hng dn cho ng
v ng vin chng.
Ti tht s t ho v trng cho ti c hi
chia s iu ny vi m nh. Khng mt ni no
khc m ti lm vic s cho php ti lm iu
ny, anh tm s.
Thnh ph ny c th cng rt mng khi trng
quc t Vit-c cho php iu . Nhng
chng trnh hc a dng nh th ny s gip
thnh ph tr thnh mt ni c mt nn gio dc
ton din pht trin mnh m, em li cho tr em
nhng c hi tip cn cc chng trnh ngoi kha
c dng nc ngoi.
Sau ht, c mt im chng ta c th cng ng
, ng hay Ty, n l mt iu cn thit nh
vo tm l ca cc anh bn tr ca chng ta. Cho
d chng ta thch cc th v trong Nht Quyn
Vng, mt c hc u hay nhng ng tc c
in ca Joe, n nhc nh chng ta nh chng ta
l nhng c th khe mnh, v s tht gn kt
chng ta nhiu hn so vi tn ngng, vn ha hoc
mu da Owen Salisbury
Khng Gian
Lm Vic Chung
Ngy cng c nhiu ngi Vit Nam ni lng c o s mi ca h v chn cch kim sng
bng internet hay k thut s khi c nhng im truy cp Wifi ti chnh nc mnh, mt
gii php cho tinh thn t do chnh l mt khng gian lm vic chung.Vit bi Aimee
Millwood. Hnh nh bi David Harris
ng vic t do thng xuyn a

ti vo tnh trng chy ua vi nhng
nhng hn cht trong nhng cn phng
khch sn cht chi hay tm kim Wifi
nhng qun c ph ti sn bay khng chnh
xc lm v cuc sng bn b bin ti thng
tng tng khi ln u tin ngh v vic lm t
do ton cu. Mc d nhng cng lm khng ph
thuc vo ni lm vic c nh gii thot ti
khi s b buc trong nhng cn phng nh, bn
thn vic tm kim mt ch ngi lm vic hiu
qu cng rt vt v.Ting ni chuyn n o hay
nhng ting pha cafe lch cch trong qun c ph
lm ti d sao nhng, cn lm vic nh thng
dn ti b chm tr hay tr hon.
Mt ngy lm vic chung
10:45 sng: Ti thc dy v c n 45 th in

t mi. Nu nh, c l ti s dn dp k lng
phng ng ca mnh v my m xung quanh vi
nhng cng vic khng cn thit thay v phi
i mt vi ni bi v cn hon thnh, v vy ti
quyt nh i n mt trong nhng khng gian
lm vic chung m ti yu thch.
11:20 sng: Ti xe ti mt ta nh khng
c g khc bit cnh The Kitchen. Ln u tin
ti ti thm ClickSpace Westlake cc bn

Si Gn, nu ang kim mt khng gian tng
t, khng phi i u xa na ngoi Saigon
Coworking ti ngc nhin v nhng iu
ang ch i ti. Lc u, Clickspace c v
nh l mt vn phng bnh thng, vi sn lt
gch mu en v trng, mt nhn vin hng
dn khch song ng v cc dch v kinh doanh.
Nhng khi vo hn bn trong, rt nhiu bn
lm vic rng, bng tp yoga, v nhng tc phm
ngh thut k cc, cy hoa v ca s rng gi
cho mt iu g c o hn ang din ra.
Nhng ngi quen dy sm chm su vo
cng vic ca h y. Ti ngi xung chic
gh yu thch ca mnh loi gh ta hnh ti
nhi u, thoi mi, v thun tin cnh nhng
khu vc c ph ni bn c th ung bao nhiu
ty thch cm my tnh xch tay v ti bt
u lm vic.
15:00: Hm nay mc d hi ng, khng
gian vn tuyt i im lng. Ti hu nh khng
nhn ra rng 3 h tri qua n lc ngh
ngi. Ti n sn thng ni nhng ngi
khc va tn hng nh nng mt tri,va tr
chuyn v n tra.Sau mt tch caf, n lc
ti tip tc lm vic.
15:30: ng dy internet tc cao hi chm

mt cht v mt ai quay li hi c ai khc b
vn tng t khng. Mt vi ngi kim tra v
gt u. Phm Anh Dng, qun l ti ClickSpace,
thy nhng phn hi v nhanh chng cung
cp cho tt c mi ngi mt khu ca my ch d
phng. Chng ti tip tc lm vic.
16:00: Sally Gardener tr li ch lm vic sau
khi thc hin mt cuc in thoi ngoi snh.
Ti khng gian lm vic chung, mi ngi rt
ch trnh lm nh hng s tp trung ca
ngi khc, v Sally cng vy.L mt trong
nhng khch thng xuyn n ClickSpace, Sally
thng s dng khng gian ti y nh l vn
phng ton thi gian ca mnh trong hn mt
nm qua. C nhn thy nhiu ngi n ri ri
khi khng gian lm vic ny, nhng bn than c
l mt trong nhng khch hng thng xuyn v
l ngi to lp nn cng ng ClickSpace.
16:45: Cp mi ti cm thy nng tru v
bng cn co. Ti tnh s i do qua ph
mua n ti JOMA, nhng ClickSpace sp ng
ca v c l ng dy i gi s tt cho ti hn,
v vy, ti vy cho tm bit nhng ngi cui
cng trong vn phng v i n qun caf lm
vic chung Commune (communehanoi.com)
Ni lm vic chung:
ang tm mt khng gian ng lm chung?
n ni ny nu...
H Ni
H ub .IT hubit.asia : Nu bn sn
sng khi nghip, v p tng, gip mang
tng ca bn ra th trng.
18:00: Cng ging nh WORK Saigon,
Commune kt hp vn ha caf v tinh thn ca
khng gian lm vic chung, cung cp mt khng
gian lm vic pha trn qun bar v nh hng.
Cnh sc h nc v ting nhc indie rock khe kh
l mt s tng phn hon ton vi vn phng rc
r nh sng m ti va mi ri khi. Nhng ti
nhanh chng thch nghi v quay tr li lm vic
19:00: Tri x chiu v nh n huyn o
bn trong sn c bt. Ngay khi ti nhn
n ng bi v cn li trong danh sch nhng
vic phi lm, Jaclyn Armstrong, ngi thng
hay lui ti Commune v cng ng thi l
ngi sng lp Cu lc b trao i sch, i ti.
n lc ngh ngi ri C tru khi gi cho
ti mt cc bia. Ti cho chic my tnh c nhn
lm vic qu sc ca mnh c ngh ngi mt lc.
i bn cng c li
Cu lc. b sch H Ni l mt v d hon

ho v cch m khng gian lm vic chung
kch thch s hp tc khng c cnh tranh.
Khi Jaclyn hi mt trong nhng ch s hu
Commune , Jeremy Wellard, liu ch c th s
dng khng gian ca qun caf thit lp mt
th vin cho mn sch min ph, anh ng

ngay v thm ch tng cho nhng ngi tham
d cc cuc hp mt cc bia hay mt cun sch
min ph. V th khng gian lm vic chung tt
nht bao gm vic : ln tng, trin khai k
hoch v vn c gii quyt.
nhiu ni ti tng lm vic, tnh bn pht
trin bi v bn bt buc phi dnh nhiu thi
gian vi nhau. Nhng trong mi trng lm
vic chung, tnh bn c nui dng v bn
mun thay v l bn b bt buc.
Ti ClickSpace, khi mi ngi thch lm
vic, h vo thi Anh Jason Lusk, sng lp nn
ClickSpace, gii thch.
Ln sng mi ca khng gian lm vic chung
phc v nhng ngi lm t do v kim tin
qua internet hay k thut s p ng nhu cu
ngy cng tng v h cn mt ni lm vic m
cng nhng khng phi nh. Theo Reuters,
ngy nay, gn 10 phn trm s ngi lm vic ti
nh mi ngy. Khi s ngi lm vic t do ngy
mt tng, nhng a im a dng phc v cho
lm vic mc ln khp ni trn th gii p
ng cc nhu cu , v Vit Nam khng phi l
mt ngoi l.
"Ting ni chuyn n o hay nhng ting pha cafe

lch cch trong qun c ph lm ti d sao nhng,
cn lm vic nh thng dn ti b chm tr
hay tr hon"
5D esire 5desire.com: Bn l ngi
mi khi nghip v ang tm kim b sung

cho khng gian lm vic ca bn vi cc dch
v t vn chuyn nghip.
W orkroomfour workroomfour.
com: Bn l ngi sng to, ang tm kim
mt khng gian ng i vi studio ngh

thut ring, bn c th cho thu bn lm vic
ti y v c cc lp hc ngh thut.
Thnh ph H Ch Minh
W ork S i G n worksaigon.com:
Bn l mt ngi lm t do hay kim tin bng

internet, thch lm vic cnh b bi ti mt
mt qun caf lm vic chung hoc tng
trn, bn c th thu bn lm vic trong mt
cn bit th Php c xa.
E gg A ccelerator eggagency.
com : Bn l mt doanh nhn ang tm kim
mt khng gian kt hpgia lm vic, gii

tr vi cc hnh thc xa x nh spa , b bi v
phng tp th dc lm thoi mi u c
gia cc bui ln tng.
S i G n coworking
saigoncoworking.com: Bn ang tm
mt ni thn mt , sng to v i mi, vi nh

sng t nhin, nhiu cy xanh gip duy tr
s sng to.
Dinh Th Ca
Nh Vn Chuyn Hng Hi
Da theo mt lot bi vit trn blog From Saigon, mc Nhng Ni Cha c Bit n
ca chng ti s a bn c n mt trong nhng a im b b qun, ni m nhng
cu chuyn ca n gp phn to dng nn b mt ca thnh ph.
nh minh ha bi Lys Bi
m gn Rch Bi Sy trong khu vc Ch

Ln, dinh th ca nh vn chuyn hng
hi ng di c bao bc bi nhng
ngi nh mi tn c li kin trc hin i
xung quanh, lm mt i v thu ht ca cn nh ba
tng ny. Mc d nh xung cp, c nhng mng
xi-mng c trm vo nhng ch lp gch c
bong ra, nhiu ng nt kin trc xy dng c vn
cn. Hng ro c bo v ci sn rng ca ngy xa
cng c thay th bng hng ro b-tng.
Ngi ng u ca gia nh c chn thnh
vin, Tit Tc, sng y. Gia nh ng l ngi
Triu Chu di c vo Si Gn t nhng nm 1860,
l mt trong nhng ln sng di c thnh cng
cui cng Ch Ln. Quch m, ngi c cng
xy dng ch Bnh Ty cng t Triu Chu.
rch ny. Khi thnh ph ngy cng pht trin v

phn thnh, ng Tc cng gp phn vo s pht
trin bng vic xy dng bnh vin An Bnh
Cn Nh
Ci Gi Ca Vic m Thuyn
80 hay 90 nm v trc, theo li chu gi ca ng

Tc c Dinh, cng ty chuyn xut nht khu
Thun Long ca ng ni mnh c mt chuyn
tu xu s ch u n Hng Kng. Khi tu chm,
cng ty bo him n b cho ng. Ngi ch cng
ty bo him l ngi sng u tin trong cn
nh m gia nh ng Tc hin ti ang c ng.
Bt u t y ng Tc xy dng huyn thoi
v mnh. Vo u nm khi ng 62 tui, cn nh
vn l ngi nh duy nht trong khu vc knh
th t ca ng Tc, Tit Qu, ngi hin ti qun

l cng vic lm n ca cha mnh i tn n
thnh Soon Long, b du ting Vit, trong n lc
Ty ha lm vic vi nc ngoi. V anh, m ca
Dinh, vn ang sng trong cn nh, mc d con
ci ngoi tr Dinh ang sng nc ngoi.
v trng Trung Hc Ngh An. ng cng mi

ci cc bc s v gio vin t Triu Chu n lm
vic v hun luyn cc chuyn gia a phng lm
vic theo phng php Triu Chu.
Ngi nh c truyn li cho ngi con trai
Vn cn gi rt nhiu nt thit k nguyn thy, cn

nh c hai tng c li kin trc ging nhau mi
tng c ba phng ng v mt bp, mi bp dnh
cho mi b v ca ngi ch c. Tng trt tng l
khu tp th ca cng nhn, b tch thu t nm 1975
n 1986, buc gia nh phi sng trong nhng
tng trn. Ngy nay, ngi nh b chia i v c ti
hai a ch.
Cu trc 800 mt vung c lm bng , theo
phong cch bn vng vi thi gian. Bc vo trong,
bn s cm gic mt khng kh n lnh. Mc d
c rt nhiu ch nt n mc m cng ty
mun mua n c nh p b n nhng n
vn tot ra v ho quang ring ca ngi nh, mt v
ho quang c truyn cm hng t nhng th k
trc m n tri qua. Ed Weinberg
Xem blog From Saigon ti website from-saigon.
tumblr.com. T vn ni dung b sung t Tim
Doling. xem thm cc ti liu v lch s Vit
Nam ca anh, xin gh historicvietnam.com
m Nhc Rock 2014: Chin Hm
Nhng tay k cu tr li, v ln ny s din ra

Sn Vn ng Hoa L. Nu thng trc nh
sn vn ng ng nght nhng ngi yu thch
nhc rock, th l hi s thi Rockstorm k ny ha
hn s l mt m no nhit ti Tp. H Ch Minh
ngy 10/5. Vi s tham gia ca nm thnh vin k
cu ca Rockstorm bao gm Bc Tng, Qui
Vt T Hon, Microwave, Black Infinity v PAK
m din ny s lm bn hon ton rung chuyn
m Nhc Rock 2014: Chin Hm s c
t chc ti Sn Vn ng Hoa L, 2 inh Tin
Hong, Q1, ngy 10/5 lc 18:30. bit thm thng
tin chi tit, xin gh facebook.com/rockconcertshow
hoc gi v 0934 582326. Gi v l 120,000 ng,
v 95,000 ng cho t v trc.
Mng Ngy Chu u
K nim ngy Chu u 9/5, Vin Goethe v

Hc Vin m Nhc Quc Gia Vit Nam s
mang n th nhng nhc s tr tui xut
sc nht ca Chu u Nhm Bavarian Youth
Jazz. Nhng nhc phm ca h l tp hp
nhng bn nhc jazz c in ca nhng ngh
s nh Duke Ellington, kt hp vi nhng sng
tc ca dng funk Latin. c dn dt bi th
lnh nhm ng thi l ngh s b g Harald
Ruschwnbaum, nhm Bavarian Youth Jazz
biu din khp ni trn th gii, v ha hn
em n mt m din v vn ha v m nhc
Chu u tuyt vi nht.
Nhm s biu din ngy th Su, 9/5 bt u
t 20:00 ti Nh Ht Thnh Ph, 1 Trng Tin,
Hon Kim, H Ni. V vo ca min ph, v
hin c ti Vin Goethe ti 56 -58 Nguyn
Thi Hc, Ba nh. bit them thng tin, xin
gh goethe.de/vietnam
Hnh Trnh Hnh nh Vi LEspace
Va l mt nhip nh gia, va l ch nh hng,

nhiu nm qua Rehahn Croquevielle th
hin cuc sng v vn ha ca Vit Nam di
ng knh ca mnh. Gi y, sau khi pht
hnh cun sch Vietnam: A Mosaic of Contrasts
(Vit Nam: Ngh Thut Mosaic ca S Tng
Phn) th hin tuyt p chn dung cuc sng
v cng ng Vit Nam, nhng tc phm tuyt

vi nht ca nhip nh gia sng Hi An ny
s c trng by LEspace ngy 9/5
LEspace nm 24 Trng Tin, H Ni. Vo
ca min ph, bt u t 18:00 ngy 9/5.
bit thm thng tin chi tit, xin gh
ifhanoi-lespace.com
The final say

NUTRITION
The Problem with MSG

Monosodium glutamate is used extensively in Vietnamese cuisine.
But is it really all that bad for you? Words by Nick Ross
t home were using Sriracha

rather than your standard
Vietnamese chilli sauce. It goes
well with rice, adds a kick to
any noodle soup or broth and is a tasty
spice accompaniment to almost every
Vietnamese meal. But look at the label
and there is a terrifying reality. Sriracha,
that Thai-made darling of so many palates
around the world, comes replete with a
dose of MSG.
So I ask my brother-in-law what he thinks.
Monosodium glutamate is bad for you,
right? He agrees. Called bot ngot or sweet
powder in Vietnamese, its something that
hes trying to use less of when he cooks at
home. But like me hes not sure why its bad.
Hes Vietnamese, and pays scant attention to
the bad rap MSG gets overseas. Yet the MSG
tale is one hes also heard. So prevalent is the
belief that this substance is bad for you that
it has gone from your typical folklore-style
old wives tale to becoming an unwritten
law avoid MSG.
But in Vietnam, avoiding MSG is
impossible. One friend recounts how they
went to a cooking class to cook pho. They
spent the day going through the myriad
of spices and other ingredients required to
make that perfect bowl of goodness, and
then at the end, they added MSG. The classs
reaction? Disappointment. Shock.
The truth is that if you eat Vietnamese
food, or most Asian food, youre likely to be
ingesting a lot of MSG. So, being an ardent
fan of street food and having yet to suffer
from the heart palpitations or series of
migraines that so many report in reaction to
this substance, I have to ask two questions.
What actually is MSG? And why is it
deemed to be so harmful?
Something Called Umami

My first stop, despite its occasional
inaccuracy, is Wikipedia. The sodium salt of
glutamic acid, according to the online bible,
industrial food manufacturers market and
use MSG as a flavour enhancer because
it balances, blends and rounds the total
perception of other tastes.
First isolated as a new taste substance
in 1908 by Tokyo Imperial University
researcher, Professor Kikunae Ikeda, the taste
was named umami. Different to the tastes
we know as sweet, salty, sour and bitter a
fifth dimension so to speak Ikeda realised

the commercial potential of his discovery
as a flavour enhancer. In 1909 he named
this product monosodium glutamate and
submitted a patent to produce MSG. The first
commercial production of MSG commenced
the same year and was given the brand
name Aji-no-moto, or essence of taste.
The problem with MSG is twofold. First
its found in almost all processed foods
canned vegetables, soups and processed
meats. Its everywhere, and its usage is
often disguised by the use of other food
additive terms such as autolysed yeast,
calcium caseinate, gelatin, hydrolysed corn
gluten, textured protein and yeast extract.
This prevalence means that in the modern
day food chain, unless you are living in the
rural reaches of Papua New Guinea or the
barren depths of Outer Mongolia, ingesting
at least some MSG into your daily diet is
unavoidable. So, if it is genuinely harmful,
then avoiding it is nigh on impossible.
More important are the anecdotal reports
that claim adverse reactions to foods
containing MSG. These include headaches,
flushing, sweating, facial pressure or
tightness, numbness, tingling or burning
in the face, neck and other areas, rapid,
fluttering heartbeats, chest pain, nausea and
weakness. There is even a suggestion that
overuse of MSG may lead to Alzheimers.
However, despite extensive research,
no link has been proven between these
various reactions and the ingestion of MSG.
The US Food and Drug Administration
(FDA), has classified MSG as a food
ingredient thats generally recognised as
safe. This is echoed by Food Standards
Australia New Zealand (FSANZ) which
cites overwhelming evidence from a large
number of scientific studies to explicitly
deny any link between MSG and serious
adverse reactions or long-lasting effects,
declaring MSG safe for the general
population.
The FSANZ does, however, suggest that
in less than 1 percent of the population,
sensitive individuals may experience the
transient side effects mentioned above
after eating a large amount of MSG in one
meal. In response they encourage people
who consider themselves sensitive to MSG
to confirm this through appropriate clinical
assessment.
Conspiracy Theory?
The growing numbers of giant-sized food
manufacturers have extensive lobbying
power. There are some out there who
suggest this may be the reason the anecdotal
reports have never been confirmed such is
the importance of MSG to the food industry
that true research has never been carried out.
And if it has, its results have been kept quiet,
quashed and not released to the public.
Such a theory also suggests that
administrations the world over act in favour
of corporate interests rather than the interests
they are supposed to represent everyday
people like you or me. It also suggests a reason
for using other names for MSG that disguise
the prevalence of the additive in food.
Conversely, a 2008 article on
junkfoodscience.blogspot.com points out
another issue food myths and how they
go viral. A recent study of MSG usage by
rural Chinese was pounced upon by the
US-based Obesity Society to prove that
constant use of MSG is linked with obesity.
However, the link they made was spurious
they divided the BMIs of respondents into
rigid categories of healthy and overweight,
and relied on percentile increases of MSG
consumption for correlational proof. News
leads quickly moved from the correlational
MSG use linked with obesity to the
causal MSG use may lead to obesity
and by merit of being published online
became the source for yet another rumour:
MSG makes you fat.
In the end, like many things, it comes
down to a personal decision. For me, the
issue with MSG is exactly what it represents.
Its a food additive that balances, blends
and rounds the total perception of other
tastes. Its a cheat. It makes food taste good
that would otherwise be ordinary. Its the
tomato ketchup of Asia.
Imagine eating a bowl of pho without MSG
in it? How would it taste? How about that
Sriracha that sits on my table at almost every
mealtime? Would it be so addictive, so moreish?
Which is why I will still insist that at home
we dont use MSG except of course for
Sriracha. And if a restaurant proclaims that it
doesnt use MSG, then it will naturally have
my support. As for street food, I once saw a
woman spoon in a full tablespoon of MSG to
my bowl of bun ngan. That was 10 years ago
and I have never eaten the dish since.
The final say

etiquette
That Little
Ignore those outdated guidebooks claiming people dont tip in Vietnam.

As David Mann explains, international travellers are making it the norm
ts not something you really think

about before you get on a plane to
go somewhere. But figuring out
whether to give an extra VND50,000 or
VND100,000 at the end of a massage or a
guided tour can sometimes be a nail-biting
or downright confusing experience no
matter where you are.
While upmarket places will often relieve
the stress (and awkwardness) by adding
service charges, an intrepid explorer may
need to keep a few pointers under their non
la to navigate these murky waters.
Changing Expectations
While many guidebooks tout that Vietnam
has no tipping custom, more foreigners
are getting on the bandwagon and forging
expectations.
Veteran Hanoi-based tour guide Phuoc
Dao says although Vietnam doesnt have
a traditional culture of tipping, foreigners
should be aware that expectations are
changing rapidly.
Knowing what scenarios and which
places [to tip] is necessary. Even some
Vietnamese people are starting to do it.
Like anywhere else in the world,
commissioning a service remotely connected
to the tourism sector will make you think
about how much you should give, says
Hung Do, a separate guide who leads tours

across the country.
It is becoming expected in service sectors
connected with the tourism industry, he
explains. In bars, hotels, massage places,
beauty salons and on tours, it is definitely
good custom to give a little bit extra to
encourage good service. Just like anywhere
else.
The bigger challenge, however, is working
out how much to give, as Mike from Ho Chi
Minh City explains.
I will usually give somewhere around the
10 percent mark as a general rule more if
the service is good, less if it is bad, he says.
This goes for anything from taxis
through to eat-in-meals and delivery. But
you just dont do it in street food joints. Its
just not done.
There exists some debate over whether
it is necessary in restaurants or taxis, with
some foreigners agreeing with Mikes 10
percent rule. Others suggest it is enough to
round up the bill to include loose change.
Foreign Influence
The custom is certainly becoming entrenched
in places where there are professional and
established service sectors, particularly in
Ho Chi Minh City.
For Laura Matheson, an American expat
living in Hanoi, it is perfectly reasonable to

give hotel porters and maids VND20,000
and guides around US$5 to US$10
(VND105,000 to VND210,000) per day
sometimes more.
Calculating the amount for a massage or
beauty treatments can also be difficult, says
Matheson, particularly up north where the
practice can vary.
Ill usually give VND50,000 extra for a
VND100,000 massage, she says.
But it can be confusing if you first have
to bargain over how much to pay for the
service. Sometimes, you just need to be firm
but it isnt always like that. Most people
appreciate the extra money.
Unbeknownst to Matheson, local
expectations of a fair amount have been
significantly influenced by western norms
and the swelling number of foreign tourists
and expats, says Trung, a tourism expert
based in Hue.
Americans never say goodbye without
doing it they see it as a duty whereas
Japanese or Chinese tourists will rarely
tip, so I dont really expect it from them.
Australians and Vietnamese are generally
somewhere in between.
Interestingly, generous travellers can
find themselves walking a tightrope of
expectations: tip below the line and be
Bit Extra
judged sometimes very harshly. Tip

excessively and risk digging a deeper hole
for the next person.
According to Professor Dung Ngo from
Hanoi Universitys Department of Tourism
and Management, this can raise ethical
questions.
The biggest source of international
tourists to Vietnam is actually China,
Professor Ngo says. And while other
important sources of tourists are Russia,
Japan and Korea, the fact is that Vietnamese
workers in the service industry are often
tipped by those from the US and European
countries.
Professor Ngo argues that tipping can
sometimes reinforce bad behaviour among
service providers, which can come at the cost
of encouraging sustainable improvements
in tourism that could help Vietnam to better
compete with competitors like Malaysia and
Thailand.
Tourists often have good things to say
about the warmth of the local people, but
not the local services in Vietnam, she says.
Service can vary significantly between
the north and south. Last year, I went to
Hoi An a favourite destination of many
international tourists. Many of them could
afford to tip a lot more than Vietnamese

people and I could see this was affecting the
service.
Making a Difference
But in a country where annual per capita
incomes average only US$1,600 (VND33.6
million) and prices continue to rise, some
argue there is a moral imperative to help
people achieve a basic standard of living that
foreigners may take for granted. Others say
it will take more than a simple VND20,000 to
fix wage inequalities.
Hung Do offers a reminder that tips can
comprise between 30 to 50 percent of a
service providers income, depending on
where they work.
I know people who are earning around
US$100 (VND2.1 million) a month, so they
can make a big difference.
So, what do you do?
Hung Do recommends clarifying
expectations beforehand by asking at the
tour office, asking other foreigners around
you or having a look online to limit any big
surprises.
Even so, I always see that a flexible
traveller is a happy one, Hung says.
Things arent going to be like how they are
at home, but its good to reward good service

and motivate people to do better. They have
to remember Vietnam is committed to being
a top travel destination.
Phuoc agrees with the need to be flexible,
but also says that you should be respectful
and grateful when travelling through
Vietnam.
It isnt too hard to figure out the rough
standards where it has become more
common, and if you want to give more you
should, he says. But you should never
tip for bad service. This is bad for your
experience and bad for the next customer.
Lastly, its important not to feel pressured
into giving crazy generous amounts.
Remember if youre a traveller its
possible youre already being charged a
little bit more or a service charge. Resist the
pressure if you genuinely cant afford to tip
generously.
But not everyone expected to tip here is a
traveller, and most of the tipping math really
depends on how far you want your dong to
go particularly when you call this country
home.
So one final advice. When in doubt,
tipping with a smile and a proudly spoken
thank you will see you through.
Things arent going to be like how they are at home, but its good to
reward good service and motivate people to do better. They have to
remember Vietnam is committed to being a top travel destination
The last call

Another big music festival is coming to Vietnam this month, ASEAN PRIDE on May
24 at the American Club in Hanoi. Word speaks to co-organisers CAMA about the
upcoming show, their hopes and their disappointments. Photo by Nick Ross
This months festival in Hanoi...

will be a sensory overload in the best way
imaginable
Even though were not ASEAN

passport holders... many of our children
are or will be
sound that doesnt sound exactly like their

rehearsal space. These are the types that
come prepared with a load of pedals, boxes
and wires, but inevitably forget that unique
adapter you just cannot find in Hanoi
very, very drunk; 2) Wrestle your regrets to

the ground, pin them down, then run them
over; 3) Take a deep breath and start planning for the next show; 4) Repeat
Sound guys... are a tough breed. There
people would get naked at CAMA gigs
bottle of vodka and then wrestling everyone

you know in a pool of mud and engine oil.
Difficult, dirty, potentially damaging, but
ultimately a whole lot of fun
are many factors that go into making good

sound. Room acoustics, the various quality
of the Chinese equipment they have, rock
bands that think the keyboards should be up
in the mix. The musicians on stage can screw
up the best sound gear with a few bad leads,
and sneer at the sound guy like it is their
fault. Lighting guys have no excuse, there is
an off switch to the strobe effect, its ok. You
can turn it off occasionally
Musicians... come in different types. The
Trying to find sponsors...
Our greatest hope is... that no
travesties will happen from now until the

end of May
Putting on festivals... is like downing a
experienced, relaxed people who do the

best they can with whats provided and try
to put on a good show, or the anal musicians who whinge and moan about the stage
is easier
when you regard K-pop as quality
entertainment
If at first you dont succeed... 1) Get
If music be the sound of love...
more
If only... we had scheduled last years

CAMA Festival 7 one week earlier
We put on events because...
masochists with penchants for debt
ATK means...
Kreativity
we are
Acronyms Trump
Hanoi needs us and other likeminded souls because... its a big city
and activity begets diversity
To read more about ASEAN PRIDE, go to page

80 or click on camavietnam.org

Word Vietnam May 2014

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Chuyn du lch, m thc

010 / The End of Laissez-Faire

The days of the Wild East are ending

058 / Madagui Soldiers

Events to look out for this month

Playing soldier on camera

018 / The Voting

Settling fights without violence

022 / The Motocross Track

Hanoi gets dirtier

064 / Vietnams Music Scene,

100 / Working as a Co-Worker

The world of loosened shirt collars

EAT & DRINK

103 / Street Snacker Hanoi

088 / Saigon from Above

On the menu: banh cuon ruoc tom

Getting some perspective on the 104 / Mystery Diner HCMC

092 / The Academy

Inside Vietnams classical music

2 | Word May 2014 | wordvietnam.com

096 / The Antique Market

The creator of Metropoles pho Prowling for bargains

011 / The Big Five

016 / Wrestling with Scholars

056 / The Bartender

106 / A Short History of Chicken Rice

Tracing the roots of an iconic dish

135 / Hanoi Promos

Playing at John and Yoko

030 / Dance Parties

114 / The Outer Reaches

Mongolia, high and low

122 / Destination Zero

At the InterCon, Danangs peninsular

124 / Photography Tips

A new column gives some light advice

027 / Travel Promos

4 | Word May 2014 | wordvietnam.com

147 / HCMC City Guide

142 / The Therapist

Truth versus rumours

182 / That Little Bit Extra

Figuring out tipping

184 / The Last Call

The folks at CAMA squeeze onto a

Acting Photo Editor

Chuyn Du Lch & m Thc

Chu trch nhim xut bn:

Thc hin lin kt xut bn:

In n 15.000 cun, kh 20.5 x 27cm

DJs and bands to fly in

factor, the one that

CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

few years back

THIS MONTH'S COVER

Have Your Say

The Rise and

Fall of The Pham

The Danang Issue

anuary on Bui Vien just before Tet.

Foreigners of all ilks and a growing quorum

pedestrians. Its everything.

November 2013. The idea was to create