Word Vietnam March 2014

Chuyn du lch, m thc
Vietnam Edition
march 2014
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contents
wordvietnam.com
march 2014
056
094
084
THE TALK
ARTS
010 / The Seeds of Growth
052 / A Life in the Arts
The bottle is now half full
011 / The Big Five
Events to look out for this month
BRIEFINGS
016 / The Village
The sequel to A O Show
Painter Bui Suoi Hoa shares

insights from her 30-year career as
an artist
084 / A Vietnamese Mosaic
098 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
Healthy home-cooked cuisine in

Tay Ho
099 / Street Snacker Hanoi
On the menu: banh ran
100 / Mystery Diner HCMC
Photographer Rhahn Croqueville Two restaurants delight our inside

has made a beautiful book
man
LEISURE
020 / Valentines Day at McDonalds 088 / The Workings of GingerWork
A date at the hottest ticket in town
026 / Womens Day
The real scoop on Womens Day
INSIDER
056 / Automatic for the People
Making inroads into Hanois

creative cliques
092 / The Riding School
Learning to ride horses in the Year

of the Horse
EAT & DRINK
Our cover story looks at the

two-wheeled vehicles that have come 094 / Lunch for a Good Cause
to symbolise Vietnam
We cant all eat cake
2 | Word March 2014
106
contents
108
114
131 / Hanoi City Guide
FASHION
102 / The Style Riders
Badasses and the clothes they wear
TRAVEL
108 / Dhaka by Bus
Its an adventure, daily for some
114 / Penguins, Seals and an Echidna
Phillip Island near Melbourne,

home of the penguin parade
126 / Destination Zero
An introduction to Villa Song

130 / Travel Promos
HANOI
044 / Overscene
046 / Calendar
4 | Word March 2014
144 / Medical Buff
135 / Hanoi Promos
146 / Student Eye
HCMC
028 / Dance Parties
150 / Business Buff
034 / Overscene
036 / Calendar
147 / HCMC City Guide
118 / The Bikers Guide to the North

152 / Coffee Cup
Thai Switchback Mountains
A well-dressed road trip
174
158/ Top Eats

172 / Food Promos
COLUMNS
138 / Book Buff
140 / The Alchemist
142 / The Therapist
162 / Body and Temple

164 / A World of Good
174 / Tieng Viet
FINAL SAY
178 / The E-Bike
Electric bikes arent just for nerds

anymore
182 / Do-Gooders, Money Makers

and Misfits
Whats your damage?
184 / The Last Call
The woman behind Fair Trade

business, Betterday
Contributors
This month we asked Word staff: How did
your parents feel about you first getting on
a bike?
Margaret Smith
Contributing Writer
I asked my mom this question
recently. Her answer? Pretty
worried. You are easily
distracted. Why? Have you had
another accident? Clearly my parents have a
lot of confidence in my driving abilities.
Hoa Le
Staff Editor
It was since I was inside my
moms uterus. She was sitting
in the back seat of my fathers
Cub. So they felt happy, I think!
Yves Schiepek
Photo Editor
When I was young I took my
sisters bike to the mountains,
where motorbike guys would
take their bikes for some jumps
and stuff. Somehow I never really got much
into it, but one day about 15 years later I was
on a scooter around Sapa, which was great.
Vu Ha Kim Vy
Stylist / Writer
I was always considered a
tomboy. So most of the time
when I did dangerous things,
my dad would say, Just dont
drive so fast.
Karen Hewell
News & Online Editor
The news about my getting a
motorbike came to my parents
in the same way that my getting
a tattoo did by accident. They
saw a Facebook photo of me driving, and
when I finally spoke to them again, they
said, If you drive that motorbike like you
drive a car, wed better get you some health
insurance.
Nick Ross
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
EDITORIAL
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Elisabeth Rosen
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yves schiepek
Photo Editor
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Hoa Le
Staff Editor
hoale@wordvietnam.com
FRANCIS ROUX
Staff Photographer (Hanoi)
francis.roux@wordvietnam.com
kAREN HEWELL
News & Online Editor
karen@wordvietnam.com
Kyle Phanroy
Staff Photographer
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mark allan
Website & Graphic Designer
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Francis Xavier
Staff Reporter
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Marketing
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Special thanks to Rob Egtberts, Vu Ha Kim Vy, Fred Lai, Harry Hodge, Margaret Smith, Aimee
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Chief Editor
When I got a job at Dominos,
I got on my first bike. If you
delivered pizzas, you got tips. I
remember my parents being scared
and critical but knowing that by the age
of 17 there was nothing they could really do or
say. And at least I was out there earning money.
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The prelude
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC
VIETNAM EDITION
MARCH 2014
hen
tourists
first arrive
in Vietnam,
they are struck (sic) by
the traffic. The terror
of crossing the road
transfixes them as they
watch the motorbikes
stream by, moving
left and right without
abandon. Through
their eyes they see
chaos without order,
madness without
reason, a traffic
system beyond their
imaginings.
Yet there is rhyme
to what at first seems
to be a lack of reason.
And if you can describe
the traffic in this
country as chaos, then
a necessary qualifier
would need to be
added organised.
Because traffic
elsewhere is based
around the mighty car,
seeing it formed in a
different way, through
an endless trail of
motorbikes, creates an
assault on the senses,

an assault unique to
Vietnam.
Yet the humble or,
these days, not-sohumble motorbike
is not about just
getting from A to B.
It is a phenomenon
that over the past two
decades has become the
lifeblood of Vietnam.
Although growing
numbers of cars and
trucks are entering
the traffic system,
without the almost 40
million two-wheelers
roaming the countrys
roads, Vietnam would
come to a standstill.
Literally. Motorbikes
are the arbiters of this
countrys development,
the engine of its move
into the 21st century.
They are the transport
of the people, the
vehicles that make this
country move.
We hope you
enjoy the issue!
Nick Ross, editor@

wordvietnam.com
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NH XUT BN LAO NG
THIS MONTH'S COVER

Cover by DH Advertising
Photo by Yves Schiepek
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AT EDITOR@wordvietnam.com were at your fingertips.
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC
VIETNAM EDITION
FEBRUARY 2014
The February Issue

Read the magazine cover to cover this month. Excellent. The best issue yet. Loved the
24 Hours in Vietnam concept. Very well thought out. Isnt it amazing to see the contrasts
between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City? RR
Hey, I was reading through your magazine and I found it very confusing. Im never sure
what is Hanoi and what is Ho Chi Minh City until I start reading the article. You need to
make it clearer. DC
The cover of your present issue didnt make sense to me. Putting all those photos on there
made it hard to work out what the idea was. GN
Clever idea for your cover. A photo feature story and a contact sheet on the front. Like
the negatives we used to get back in the old days when photography was still done with
film. KM
Mr. McDonalds
(February 2014, page 42)
Dont get the obsession with
McDonalds. Whats all the
fuss about? Isnt there any
better news in Vietnam at the
moment? SJ
Interesting article. Never knew
this was Maccy Ds first new
market for 15 years. Sounds
like the Big Mac Index could be
quite important for Vietnam.
DC
Ten-Dollar Man
(February 2014, page 40)
Hahahaha! That is
so funny. Did he
actually let you take
that photo? Everyone
knows that guy. JD
Insider
MR. MCDONALDS 042 // THE HIGH LIFE 044 // 24 HOURS IN VIETNAM 046 // DR. JEKYLL AND MR.
HYDE 078 // THE CUBAN BROTHERS 080 // GREEN LIVING 082 // HOLISTIC HANOI 086 // THE SIVANANDA LIFESTYLE 092 // MADE IN VIETNAM 100 // TO THE LIGHTHOUSE 104 // BANH MY THIT XIEN
NUONG 105 // SAIGONS BEST PHO 106 // CYBER-PATS 108 // THE LAND OF MANY COLOURS 114
PHOTO BY NICK ROSS
Ten Dollar Man, one of The Pham in Saigons most enduring characters.
We didnt buy the watch.
Do you think he sells

anything? BN
40 | Word February 2014
8 | Word March 2014
NH XUT BN LAO NG
February 2014 Word | 41
The Talk Lead
The Seeds of Growth

The bottle is now half-full
n early 2009 a well-known financial

advisor and analyst based in Vietnam
told Word that now (or then) was the time
to invest. He expounded his reasons,
but the key one was that the market was
subdued. A subdued market means lower
costs labour, raw materials, rental, real
estate and so on. Businesses, he continued,
should take advantage of this and invest
now while the going was good.
Retrospect is a fine thing, and looking
back you can see his error. A subdued
market means that no matter how cheap
it is to invest, there is a lack of demand.
And selling your goods and services in
such circumstances is tough as many
businesses were soon to discover, very
tough. The market was also on its way
down. Which meant that what you bought
today, particularly in real estate rentals,
could well be cheaper tomorrow.
Yet what he said also made sense. If you
could find a market niche and at the
time in Vietnam there were many 2009
was the moment to enter it and establish
yourself. The reason? Not only were set-up
costs cheap, you would have time to get it
right. The influx of competition you would
get when the economy is booming would be
slow to materialise.
market in Vietnam is at the bottom.

According to Lyons, where these
investors differed was on when the market
would actually rise. Some, he said, were
thinking within two quarters which
would mean now others said within
three quarters, some thought not for another
two years. But they are deciding that now
is the time to get in.
Not So Premium
We have already started to see this
investment ripple through, most
visibly in food and beverage. But
one new change with this growth
is its focus. In the past, much of
this countrys development was
focused on the top-end the
premium market. Now the
middle and bottom tiers of
the market are also being
looked after.
It is retail shopping malls out of the

centre of the city catering for non-premium
customers that are starting to do well, said
Lyons. So is residential like the lower
end E-homes created by the Nam Long
Group. They do a concept where you can
buy a brand new two-bedroom apartment
for US$30,000 (VND430 million). They have
gone for mass sales with small margins.
He cites other successful low-end and
mid-range projects that have been a success,
concluding, These kinds of projects
give lower percentage returns but
they turn over. The mid-range is
okay as well, a little more risky
but with higher returns. It
is good to look at the low
to mid-range.
Which all suggests
that now, rather than
2009, is the time to
invest. Nick Ross
From the Bottom Up
10 | Word March 2014
pressfoto.com
The start of post-Tet 2014 has been greeted

with optimism probably the most
optimism to be heard since the credit
crunch. Speaking to people in both Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City, there is still some
caution, but there is now a sense that we
have hit the deepest part of the economic
curve and are moving upwards. It has
created a new buzz of activity that in the
months running up to the Year of the Horse
was strangely absent.
Yet as David Lyons, former country
manager of real estate firm Jones Lang
LaSalle, explained back in September 2013,
last year there were already rumblings that
the economy was about to change. The
question was when.
Often seen as a barometer of the local
economy, real estate fluctuations tend to
ripple out to the wider economy after six to
12 months. This may be what we are about
to experience this year.
For the last eight months we have had
a lot of foreign investors coming in and
they have all done their own independent
research, he explained of the first part of
2013. Every one of them without a question
has come to the same conclusion that the
1.
the big five

A Jekyll and Hyde Tale
Few stories have the kind of resonance in different contexts as
Robert Louis Stevensons tale of moral inconsistency and rival
influence. Theres a reason that The New Theatre Company
(TNT) has chosen Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde to follow successful
productions of Shakespeare and Gullivers Travels at the Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City Opera Houses, one of 20 countries on the
plays 22-week tour. Its a simple, physically demanding setup,
one that puts language and atmosphere above all else with the
beautiful opera house backdrops providing one and a veteran
cast providing the other. To add to the resonance, who in Vietnam
doesnt have experience putting a mysterious liquid into their
body and completely changing into someone else?
Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde will show at the Hanoi Opera House at
7.30pm on Mar. 4. The production will then move to Ho Chi Minh City
for four shows 7.30pm on Mar. 6, Mar. 7 and Mar. 8 as well as an
11am matinee on Mar. 7. For ticketing go to vnpac.org, the Vietnam
Performing Arts Center, tel: (04) 3747 8658, log onto ticketbox.vn or
email info@adg-europe.com
3.
2.
5.
Maft Sai isnt someone who just

plays records this Thai funk label
head is a re-creator of the worlds and times
these records came from. A truly original
talent that Southeast Asia is lucky enough
to call their own, Maft Sai has become *the*
world expert on left-field Thai music luk
thung, molam and Isan dancehall all of
which are covered in the excellent comps
issued by his Zudrangma Records label. A
heavy research DJ for over 12 years, Maft
spins an eclectic mixture of underground
sounds from around the world. Expect the
Eastern sonic equations heavy molam,
dense African breakdown, liquid luk thung
and rare Middle East cuts when he
comes to The Observatory on Mar. 7.
Maft Sai is at The Observatory corner of
Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1, Ho Chi Minh
City Mar. 7 at 10pm. Entry is VND150,000
Apocalaughs Now!
If you remember the prim-andproper crudeness of English

comedienne Mandy Knight and the
theatrical, melodramatic delivery of
Canadian Glenn Wool, then youll sure as
hell remember the last installment of standup comedy at Cargo Bar.
The next show on Tuesday Mar. 18 is set
to be equally as spectacular and bellytickling, with a return performance from
Russian-born, American-raised gagmeister
Daniel Kinno. Also on stage is Billy Connolly
lookalike did we really say that? Dave
Callum. Originally from Ireland, the comic is
now based in Australia and has an armslength-worth of accolades to add to the
shoulder-length hair. And as ever, support
will come from Stand-Up Saigon, with MC
Steve Jackson and Jeremy Ginsberg.
For more information and table bookings,
email saigoncomedynights@gmail.com or go to
facebook.com/saigoncomedyclub. Alternatively
click on saigoncomedy.com. Cargo Bar is at 7
Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 and entrance surcharge,
including a free original Magners Irish Cider,
is VND250,000. Doors are at 8pm
Superpoze
If you thought that the

close of 2013 would be
the end of the French-influenced
cultural extravaganza that was
to grace the 40-year-anniversary
celebrations of diplomatic
relations between the Gallic
powerhouse and Vietnam, then
you were wrong. This month,
Hanois LEspace is bringing
Maft Sai Brings the Wild
4.
GingerWork Turns One
If youve been living in Hanoi for the past

year and havent heard of GingerWorks,
then youve probably been living under a
rock. Well, maybe not. But certainly this events
production collective is one to watch out for.
If you want to celebrate 12 months of combining
art and music, installations, all things creative and
of course, music, then pencil in Saturday Mar. 29
for their first anniversary. The full details have yet
to be announced, but the ginger-haired guru at the
helm, Mark Harris, assures us that you just need
to check out their Facebook page for updates
facebook.com/wearegingerwork.
Weve run a feature on them this month. So, to find
out more turn to page 88
in not three but four musicans

to light up the northern Spring
nights.
Pick of the bunch is rising
star, Superpoze. A composer,
a beatmaker and a purveyor
of electronic music at its
crossroad of influences, by
mixing jazz, hip hop and all
things leftfield, Superpoze
has an ability to knock doors,
slip through immigration and

expand borders. Hes playing at
LEspace (24 Trang Tien, Hoan
Kiem) on Saturday Mar. 29 (for
just VND60,000 entrance for
two people), and is most likely
also taking to the grounds of
Saigons very own cultural
centre, Idecaf.
Dont just pencil this one in,
mark it down in ink.
March 2014 Word | 11
briefings
The Toilets
Public toilets in Vietnam are going five-star. They even
come with a built-in ATM. Photos by Francis Xavier
n a Nov. 14, 2008 TripAdvisor

post, entitled Toilet tips please,
an Australian tourist posed the
following question about Vietnam:
Have a 14-year-old daughter who is very
worried about squat toilets (must admit I'm
not that keen on them myself). So fellow
TripAdvisors, any tips for finding westernstyle toilets in these cities?
One of the fellow TripAdvisors replied,
Squat toilets were not that common but the
general standard of public WCs or those at
'tourist stops' were a little disappointing.
Another said, One tip, take plenty of
tissues!
In the years that have passed, things
have generally improved for such skittish
tourists as Hen302, the originator of the
aforementioned TripAdvisor post. But this
general lack of tourist-standard facilities
is still a problem on the minds of many,
including N. Tran Tam, who wrote in
the Dec. 21, 2012 edition of Vietweek that
the lack of public toilets in the city was
a difficult problem forcing tourist
companies to impose on five-star hotels in
frequently touristed areas.
Even though Vietnam had made strides
in recent years regarding public toilets, Tam
went on to say, these tourist area facilities
were unusable, especially for tourists,

because they are too small for one to use
with a backpack, or are abused by street
vendors who use them as a place to take
baths and wash clothes, or they are dirty and
stink.
Enter the five-star toilet/ATM: Vietnams
latest fix.
The Five-Star Solution

Through minimal internet searching, the
phrase five star toilet yielded reports on the
Vietnamese initiative, websites of a private
company or two and a critical article on a
stereo-equipped Chinese iteration. So we
went into one of these new five-star toilets, to
find out exactly what it is, and how it stacks
up against the five-star hotel facilities the
tourists had previously been sent to.
Ho Chi Minh Citys 23/9 Park is a likely
space for tourists, and locals too. Located just
off the main tourist drag of Pham Ngu Lao,
the park stays crowded through the day with
skateboard kids, fitness-minded grannies,
dog walkers and tourists off for a stroll. And
now, on the Le Lai side of the park, one of
these five-star facilities has just opened for
business.
Walking into the restroom, an attendant
hands toilet-goers a swipe of bog roll
two-ply, but bargain rate. There are plastic

slippers at the entry. The toilets lock, and
the urinals are equipped with auto-flush
mechanisms. Dispenser soap is a handwashing option, although convenient drying
tools arent.
And right outside, a Sacombank vestibule
caters to another aspect of the refuel, lining
ones pockets with currency via touchscreen.
These ATMs are actually an important part
of the experience, as the VND800 million,
11-toilet project in Ho Chi Minh City has
been funded by the banks, according to Bui
Xuan Cuong, deputy director of the Ho Chi
Minh City Department of Transportation,
in a VietnamNet report. Conversely, Hanois
VND15 billion, 14-toilet project is to be
funded by the state budget, according to the
same article.
Though some aspects of this five-star
experience werent exactly up to scratch
(where are the heated toilet seats, people?),
in a pinch theyre not a bad option. And
perhaps the media is putting the johnny on
the spot a bit too much by claiming it the
harbinger of a new washroom standard. If
the new five-star toilets arent something
to write home about or post about on
TripAdvisor that can only be a good thing
for Vietnam. Ed Weinberg
briefings
With Junes World Cup set

to be screened at ungodly
hours in Vietnam,
how does the recent
Super Bowl screening
augur for the largest
tournament in the world?
Photos by Francis Xavier
The Early Bird

A
t 5.30am, Saigons
Phu My Hung
is not normally
the liveliest place
on a Monday. Factor in
that its Tet, and you
dont even hear any
motorbike horns. Walking
roughly 20 minutes in
the morning darkness
from my apartment to a
neighbourhood bar, the
usual xe oms who hit me
up for a ride are noticeably
absent. Why would anyone
be out so early? would
probably be the main
question in their minds.
Once I enter The Tavern
(R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Q7),
its a scene of commotion.
Every table is taken, so I
was wise to book the table
in advance. The servers
look a bit petrified this
is certainly the busiest Ive
seen this District 7 pub. With
the Super Bowl coming off
the feed from Thailands
True Sports network, there
are some worried mutters
during the pre-game show
that the whole broadcast
will be in Thai. Luckily, by
the time the national anthem
and the coin toss are taking
place, its all in English.
Theres No Place
Like Home
While there seems to
be a slight variation in
accents, the crowd is
overwhelmingly (North)
American, with T-shirts and

jackets emblazoned with
Seattle and Denver (the two
teams in the game) as well as
various teams from Miami,
Toronto and other cities
further afield.
Sadly, two things are
missing from this particular
broadcast: A competitive
game, and the world-famous
commercials. By halftime,
the Seahawks are laying a
beating on the Broncos, and
a blowout is looming. But for
Eric Rosenthal, a 27-year-old
English teacher living in the
area, watching the game not
only provides nostalgia, but
is also a way to return to his
roots from afar.
I wish I could be home
with a bunch of friends to
watch the game, Rosenthal
says, but notes that snowy
New York State doesnt
offer the chance to watch
the game on a patio, like the
Tavern did that morning.
Id be tucked inside a
house with a fire going. We
usually go to a friends place
to watch the game.
Florida native Michael
Blake, in town visiting his
brother and some other
friends, is ensuring that
despite being on holiday he is
still watching Americas most
famous standalone game.
I have friends who live in
District 7, and theyre here,
he says, adding that he is
indifferent to which team wins.
Its more for the social aspect.
What About The

World Cup?
The Super Bowl is a one-off

game, a yearly spectacle
that American Football fans
look forward to and watch
in their armchair obsessed
droves. But the World Cup is
different. Yes, it takes place
every four years, but there
are 64 matches, of which
48 alone are in the group
stages. Few, if any, watch
every match. Its more about
supporting your country
or watching the big teams
scrap it out for qualification
through to the next round.
The problem for fans in
Vietnam, as with the Super
Bowl, will be the time
difference. Brazil is between
eight and 10 hours behind.
The earliest matches will
start at 11pm, with most
kicking off at 2am or 3am.
The Jul. 14 final, due to be
held in Rio de Janeiro, kicks
off at 2am.
So, will places like The
Tavern, or any other sportswatching haunts around
the country be packed into
the early hours? For the
big matches, most likely
yes. But how it will affect
the Vietnams daytime
productivity is something
yet to be seen.
As for licensing, now
thats another matter
entirely. Harry Hodge
briefings
The Village
What do you get if you cross a traditional northern village
with a Vietnamese circus? Something very unique
hen we think of a circus, most of us

think of complex equipment, bold stunts
and extravagant costumes. We imagine
vivid colours and death-defying physical
feats that transfix audience members who gasp and
shriek with bated breath. But the My Village show
the brainchild of the creative team behind the A
O Show that takes to the stage this month at the Ho
Chi Minh City Opera House isnt like most circus
performances.
My Village, or Xiec Lang Toi, takes the common
pageantry of most acrobatics shows and turns it on its
head. Vivid and bursting colours are traded for demure,
earthen browns and sharpened juggling knives for
bamboo rods. Its simple, but its deliberate. Although My
Village showcases stunning acrobatic stunts and plenty of
gasps and shrieks, the show is above all about the culture
and history of rural northern Vietnam, where simplicity
reigns supreme.
A Different Perspective
The colours and [stunts] in the show were inspired
by working with local people and within the [natural
scenery] in northern Vietnam, says creative director Tuan
Le, who is also the director behind A O. In collaboration
with Nhat Ly, Nguyen Lan and Tan Loc, Tuan Le began
the My Village project in 2005 with a cast drawn entirely
from the Federation Circus of Vietnam. In 2009, the
shows cast began a series of over 300 performances
around the world, and has only recently returned to the
Saigon stage for 2014.
Much like the A O Show, My Village uses nothing more
than bamboo and ensemble work in its acrobatic stunts,

often balancing performers metres in the air atop nothing
more than shoulders and thin bamboo rods. Yet, unlike A
O Show, which draws on both rural and urban Vietnamese
lifestyle, My Village tells a story of life in the countryside
during a specific period of Vietnams turbulent past.
[My Village] illustrates a different perspective for the
audience. For those audience members who have already
seen the A O Show, [My Village] is another chance for those
audience members to see a different world, says Tuan Le.
The Sights and Sounds of the North

Consequently, a collection of traditional instruments
create epic soundscapes to illustrate the sounds of rain
rather than traffic, and bamboo rods are manipulated to
portray water and waves rather than noisy apartment
buildings. Although the storyline is left largely up to the
audience and their experience of the show, My Village
paints a vivid picture of northern Vietnam and the lives
and experiences of the people in the region.
Director Tuan Le hopes that the return of the show
to the local stage will provide an opportunity for both
Vietnamese and foreign audience members to experience
the performance. Although it draws upon the same
inspiration of illuminating the culture of Vietnam through
performance art, My Village aims to offer something new
to audiences.
[My Village] is important, he says. It shares with
audiences a different version of our work with the same
concept and vision. Karen Hewell
For more information on the show as well as performance
times throughout March and April, go to xieclangtoi.com
briefings
The
Pod
Life
I
t has finally happened. Living in a space capsule

is now possible in Vietnam. And it only costs
a minimal US$6 (VND126,000) a night in the
form of Hong Kong Kaiteki Hotels capsule
accommodation.
One of the few of its kind in Southeast Asia,
this capsule hotel is the new kid on the Bui Vien
backpackers block in Ho Chi Minh City, and is definitely
not the last weve seen of this phenomenon.
Ive never been into a hotel that makes you change
into slippers, remarked one pod-dweller at reception.
Indeed, leaving ones shoes in specific lockers and
changing into flip-flops provided by the hotel is ranked
as important as handing over a passport during checkin. An unusual start and most certainly a sign of a
peculiar pod-life experience ahead.
Your Every Electrical Need

Each dormitory floor is gender separated and contains
12 double-decked capsules. As soon as I was ushered to
my capsule, I was shown the mechanics of the electronic
lock to my personal cabinet. Then, like an ignition to a
space pod, the key was placed in the holder and the pod
whirred to life, humming as the lights and ventilation
came on.
The word kaiteki in the hotels title means
comfortable in Japanese, and as dorm accommodation
goes, it was an impressive setup. Apart from the usual
a mattress, pillow and blanket each capsule is decked
with a flat-screen TV accompanied by cable channels.
Audio was muted and only accessible via an earphone
port in the wall. But theres more. Controls to various
light settings, ranging from night lamp to reading lights,
were all within reach. Carefully designed power sockets
catered to the needs of power plugs from all over the
world there was even a USB port.
Having entered, I threw myself down on the mattress

and gazed in amazement at this interesting box that I
would be spending two nights in.
Novelty or a Business?
The brains behind the hotel, Chinese-born Chen Du,
spent months in Hong Kong learning the trade before
setting out on the Pham Ngu Lao hotel business.
Surprisingly, we are doing better than I had planned
on, says the 24-year-old.
Opened in October 2013, Chens venture has
catapulted into sell-out heights he had never imagined.
In just a few months his venture has attracted a steady
flow of intrigued travellers, all wanting to just come by
and get a feeling of what its like living in a pod.
However, Chen is not here just to provide novelty.
He is, after all, a businessman with huge aspirations
and already has plans to expand his line of hotels across
popular tourist spots in Vietnam, and maybe eventually
Southeast Asia.
I have been making notes of firsthand feedback from
the hotels guests, he says. Ive even stayed in my own
hotels space capsule (the Chinese term for such hotels),
just to know what it is like. After all, this is just a trial
model, a foundation for what is ahead.
With shared toilet cubicles that look exactly like that
of a hotel room, there remain intrinsic kinks in the whole
capsule experience stuff needs to be tweaked. Though
dormitory-like in both structure and price, allowing
travellers to have privacy means many see no need for
interaction.
Despite this, Chen Du is undeterred. And no doubt
more of his capsules will soon be making a landing
across Vietnam. Fred Lai
Hong Kong Kaiteki Hotel is at 22 Bui Vien, Q1. For more
information, visit kaitekihotel.com
Available until 15/03/2014
Savor the Dancing

menu featuring the
favorite beef cuts at
Beef
most
Corso
Steakhouse & Bar that will
temp any beef-lover.
Ground Floor - NORFOLK HOTEL

117 Le Thanh Ton Street, Dist. 1, HCMC, Vietnam
T: (84-8) 3829 5368 - F: (84-8) 3829 3415
E: corso@norfolkhotel.com.vn
W: www.norfolkhotel.com.vn
Managed by Norfolk Group
briefings
Love takes on a whole

new meaning under
the golden arches.
Photos by Kyle Phanroy
ts Valentines Day 2014, and a week

after its grand opening the hottest
restaurant in town is as busy as ever.
Outside the line to park is at least 30
motorbikes deep, if not longer. As couples,
families and friends alight from their bikes
and wait to order, red ropes surround them
like the red carpet of a movie premiere. Dark
pink flower petals float in a small pool of
water out front, with lights from underneath
shimmering in and out of the waves. Red
and white heart-shaped balloons float near
the entrance.
And when customers finally reach the
front door, smiling employees are waiting
out front: Welcome to McDonalds.
Vietnams first McDonalds has made
a big splash. Situated near the District 1
roundabout of Dien Bien Phu and Nguyen
Binh Khiem on an almost 3,000sqm property,
the Ho Chi Minh City location is the first
step into the first new market McDonalds
has entered in 15 years. Lines go out the
door daily, and at the time of writing their
Facebook page has more than 180,000 likes
growing by the thousands each day.
Construction of a second store near the
backpacker hub of Bui Vien is already in the
works.
McDonalds Vietnam joins a growing
Valentines Day
at McDonalds
Southeast Asia market. The opening of
the Vietnam location marks the 10,000th
restaurant for the chain in the Asia, Pacific,
Middle East and Africa region, and countries
close to Vietnam have already been saturated
with locations.
Yet the entrance of the iconic fast food
chain into the Vietnamese market is more
than just a testament to Vietnams growing
economy and fast food culture. Its a new
and exciting experience for those whove
only seen it in the movies and this
Valentines Day, it was as popular as ever.
A Marriage of Convenience
For their Valentines Day event, McDonalds
offered special deals for people that came
in wearing the same shirt. Groups that
participated got to skip the regular line and
walk through a heart-shaped entrance made
out of red and white heart-shaped balloons
McDonalds own tunnel of love.
Groups could be seen wearing matching
polos, plaid button-ups and, in one case,
a pair of T-shirts that combined to make a
heart.
At the front, groups of three employees
helped couples complete their orders: the
first person marking them down on a sheet
of paper, the second entering them into a
handheld device and the third taking money

and handling the food.
[Our celebration] is different from the
others, said Communications Manager
Tram Le. Its a day to spread your love. It
doesnt matter if its family love or romance
love.
Young lovers Quang and Oanh came in
matching T-shirts on this, their first trip to
McDonalds. Afterwards they had plans to
drive out to District 7, where they planned to
walk around and enjoy the lights.
They werent the only ones that
had McDonalds on their itinerary for
Valentines Day. Almost all 350 seats over
the restaurants two floors were packed with
couples and families. They were eating Big
Macs, sharing fries and sipping on CocaColas. Kids were excitedly standing in front
of the Happy Meal display, pointing at all
the toys.
In the western world McDonalds is seen
as a quick convenience, but so far in Vietnam
its attracted a different crowd. And this
Valentines Day they didnt just come to grab
a quick meal before starting the rest of the
night: this was the main event.
After all, who wouldnt want to go
to most popular restaurant in town for
Valentines Day? Margaret Smith
brief ings
The Passion of
Real Madrid
La Ligas most successful football
club is coming to Vietnam
he first thing one learns about

the Real Madrid system is their
philosophy:
ME: As an individual learning
leadership, self-control and humility
THEY: As my peers where I will show respect,
tolerance and solidarity
WE: As a team learning fellowship, effort and
teamwork
This is a fairly simple guide to winning,
one often repeated in team sports, but it
underlies another basic fact teams that
win really practice this philosophy. And Real
Madrid C.F., with a record nine European
Champions League titles to their credit, is
a team that knows how to implement these
values.
If youre going to lay down the US$350
(VND7.35 million) for your child to take part
in the Foundation Real Madrid Clinic in Hanoi
between Apr. 14 and Apr. 18, you probably
know this already. What you dont know is
the nuanced understanding these technical
coaches the same ones who work with the
Real Madrid youth team in Spain aim to
impart.
In partnership with Vietnam Football
Passion Academy (VFP), United Nations
International School (UNIS) and Crowne

Plaza West Hotel Hanoi, the clinic will run
for five days on UNISs football pitch for the
six to 16-year-olds in attendance. The coaches
will also take on an additional session each
day, training a group of underprivileged
children. In these five days, they hope to
make a lasting impact on all the clinics
participants in life skills as well as football.
Continuing Education
Those whove already heard of Real
Madrids coming may have heard some
confusing reports online. The Spanish
professional Real Madrid football club is
planning to open an academy for local
young in Hanoi, read the standfirst of one
article.
Lionel Wong, the founder of clinic
organiser VPF, says its not 100 percent true.
The purpose of the five days training clinic is
to assess the viability of opening an academy
in Hanoi in the next few years.
At this point in time, Mr. Manuel [Pareno
Rodriguez, Real Madrids international
training manager] and myself have only
confirmed that we will work on conducting
and organising short-term football training
clinics in Vietnam.
Still, that the sustained involvement
of one of continental Europes football
powerhouses is even on the table bodes well
for the future of Vietnamese football. Up to
this point, Englands Premier League (EPL)
is the only western football federation that
has delved into the Vietnamese market on
this level. EPL clubs have not only spent
time and money on a five-year programme
to train local coaches, they have also
invested in the sustained development of
Vietnamese football culture by setting up a
football academy. That investment has paid
off in the seven years since Arsenal poured
VND85 billion into the Hoang Anh Gia
Lai-Arsenal JMG Football Academy. Many
of the members of Vietnams U-19 team are
graduates.
At this time, the only plans Mr. Wong
could speak on were of organising a similar
Real Madrid clinic in Ho Chi Minh City later
this year. For those whove watched the state
of local football progress, the fact that Real
Madrid is trying to get involved at all is a big
step. Ed Weinberg
For more information on the Hanoi clinic, click
on frmhanoi.com
brief ings
The Foundation
The Nam Phuong Foundation is building the future of rural Vietnam, one bridge at a
time. Yet, more surprising than the initial success of the Foundation are the unlikely
philanthropists behind it
or one sibling duo, the term building

bridges is more than just a metaphor.
Set up by 16-year-old Khang and
21-year-old Phuong, the intention of
the Nam Phuong Foundation was to provide
capital to improve infrastructure in rural
Vietnam by building bridges. However, the
venture has transformed into a project that
is funding more than just construction.
[The foundation] will improve the
future of the people [within] a whole area,
through promoting education and trade,
says Phuong, currently an undergraduate at
Oxford University in the UK studying Politics,
Philosophy and Economics. I guess this
makes it metaphorical as well, although that
was not the main reason for why we chose to
build bridges.
After reading a story about children who
drowned while making their way to school,
along with her brother she recognized the
need for massive infrastructure improvements
in rural areas of Vietnam.
It hit us both really hard that there are
kids out there who are so desperate to be
educated, that they would risk their lives
on a daily basis to go to school, she says,

adding that such stories are not uncommon
in Vietnam. With many children in rural
areas cut off from schools by treacherous
waterways, journeying to the classroom often
demands wading across rivers or crossing
crude and structurally unsound bridges.
Building Dreams
So, the pair set out to change things, setting out
on a mission to garner capital to help fund the
construction of bridges in rural areas. To make
it happen they drew on all their resources.
My sister and I realised that with our
small network and connections, we could
raise enough funds to build bridges, and
therefore eliminate unsafe bridges and means
of transportation, says Khang, who at
an impressively young age is now the
Foundations Operations Officer and the
driving force behind its many projects.
The Vina Capital Foundation soon came
on board to manage the budding Foundation
pro-bono. And together with support from
numerous companies, to date they have
raised over VND3 billion. Yet, the funds from
the Foundation do not cover all the cost for

construction and for good reason.
We contribute around 70 percent of the
cost, with the rest coming from the local
government and the people, so as to give
them a sense of responsibility as well as
achievement, says Phuong. For her, the
importance of empowering a community
is equal to that of the Foundations
development efforts. Lasting effects are a key
element of the mission.
The permanence of infrastructure means
that the returns will continue indefinitely or
at least for a very long time, she continues,
admitting that her economist background
lends to her pragmatic and long-term mindset.
The Foundation is now expanding their
reach and are beginning to provide funding
for roadways and water wells. Karen
Hewell
The Nam Phuong Foundation will be one of
the charities supported by the proceeds of the Air
France Charity Gala on Mar. 22 at the Caravelle
Hotel. For more info go to page 30. The Nam
Phuong Foundation can be found online at
namphuongfoundation.org
Definitely Maybe
Cat of the Month

Patrick
Patrick is a wiry orange one-year-old boy cat awaiting his chance
at the big time a spot on your couch. Hes a big cat with a
friendly streak and a playful nature about him, as long as you can
keep up as ARC volunteer Christa says, sometimes he doesnt
know how to play soft.
Patricks looking to be the brave boy of the house, as he gets a
bit insecure around other kitties (although he does have a best bud
at ARC if youre looking for two). But close the door and hes the
friendliest, most eye-closingly happy kitty you could imagine. At
one, hes all grown up, and theres nothing hed like better than to
have a fresh start in your lap.
Hes active, spayed, fully vaccinated and waiting for
you to take him home today. Contact arcpets@gmail.com to make
your date with kitty destiny.
Meanwhile at the Cat Ranch

Fresh off a four-month kitten fostering, the delightful Hamish and
Hattie are dewormed and ready to go! Delightful tabby siblings
with an inquisitive nature, theyre excited to be teaming up with
the other inhabitants of ARC HQ in chasing all the bouncy balls
and pieces of lint they can find into their rightful corners.
Theyll pick up the slack left behind by Toffee and Sydney, the
latest graduates of ARC to go on to successful careers watching
birds through Ho Chi Minh Citys finest windows.
Womens Day
So Whats the Story on International Womens Day?
First off, to all those foreigners out there,
although you may never have heard of it
before coming to Vietnam, International
Womens Day is indeed international,
with 100-year roots in womens suffrage
movements in the US, Europe and Russia.
The earliest Womens Day observances
were held in the US by female socialists,
crusading for voters rights, workers
rights and equal treatment. In 1911 the first
International Womens Day was celebrated
by over a million people in Austria,
Denmark, Germany and Switzerland. In
the Austro-Hungarian Empire alone, there
were over 300 demonstrations curiously,
none of them marked by the giving of

flowers.
Womens Day strikes in St. Petersburg
over bread shortages sparked the Russian
Revolution on Mar. 8, 1917, and thereafter
the observance of Womens Day became a
hallowed, patriotic event all over the Soviet
world. Although its since lost its political
flavour ahem, ahem, romantic dinner
planners this is a day that continues to
raise awareness on key issues for women
the world over.
That said, heres a list of wine-and-dine
options for the upcoming Mar. 8, 2014
edition.
Ho Chi Minh City

27 Grill @ Chill Skybar
Market 39, priced at VND1,099,000++ per

person. Not that its the point, but each lady
present can expect a special gift from the hands
of the kind folks set to attend to your lovely
lady.
chillsaigon.com
Some ladies cant be bought off with roses
and for this discerning breed theres 27 Grills
special Womens Day set menu. A four-course
meal, clocks in at a base price of VND1.2
million++ per person, with step-up options
to VND1.7 million++ per person for a free
flow of wine and beer, or VND2.5 million++
per person for an extra course of pan-fried
foie gras with apple and chamomile tea pure
and a bottle of Mot & Chandon champagne
for every couple. With a menu that runs the
gamut from salmon tartar to pan-seared
scallop to your choice of 250g MSA rib eye
steak or pan-fried black cod, this is a meal
your date might just buy you a rose after.
Caravelle
caravellehotel.com
Restaurant Nineteen is the site of Caravelles
ode to the fairer sex an overflowing lineup
of mouth-watering appetisers, cheeses,
soups, salads, seafood stations and dessert
corners. This Mar. 8 dinner buffet comes in
at VND1,013,000++ per person, leaving you
with something to spare for a nightcap at
Saigon Saigon Bar, where youll find expert
bartenders pouring Womens Day Grand
Marnier and Belvedere-infused cocktails to
the Latin beats of Cuban band Qvans
VND198,000++ a go.
Hotel Equatorial
equatorial.com/hcm
Both Chit Chat and Orientica are throwing
out all the stops this Mar. 8, and inviting
the ladies in your life to sample a westernand-Asian dinner buffet at Chit Chat or a
special set menu at Orientica both priced
at VND940,000++ a person. Throughout the
night, attending ladies will have a chance at
winning some free pampering vouchers.
InterContinental
icasianasaigon.com
InterCon knows that no two ladies are the
same, and thats why they have options
lunch and dinner dim sum all-you-can-eat
starting at VND500,000++ per person at Yu
Chu, and a signature-cocktail-and-otheradult-beverage-lubricated buffet dinner at
Mvenpick
moevenpick-saigon.com
Mar. 8 is seafood night at Caf Saigon,
wherein all the marvels of the sea will be yours
to try, buffet-style. To make an all-day thing
out of it, hit Kinetic Wellness Studio between
10.30am and 3pm for a day of pampering at 30
percent off.
Sheraton
sheratonsaigon.com
For Womens Day, invite your lady to
unbuckle her belt and indulgence-related guilt
in preparation for Saigon Cafs sumptuous
Womens Day spread. Complementing fresh
seafood, homemade sushi and sashimi, ovenroasted prime rib and Yorkshire puddings is a
free flow of sparkling wine and house wines
and of course the requisite rose for all ladies.
VND1.2 million++ per person, 6pm to 10pm
on Mar. 8.
And For After Dinner
Everyones a DJ Presents: Mekong

Dub
@ Broma
41 Nguyen Hue, Q1
After the wine-and-dine, its time for the
cultural experience. And right in the nick of
time, DJs Daddy Vegas and Jacques Cousteau
are coming with the funk, rock steady and
Afrofunk grooves they used to introduce the
city of Beijing to rare soul nearly 15 years ago.
Broma will be the site of this historic collision,
to be called Mekong Dub by future generations
an amalgam of rock steady, ska and heavy
heavy dub left by the fates for them to come
across in the back alleys of Asia, Europe and the
US. Superkid to support VND50,000 at the
door, which opens 9pm on Mar. 8.
Danang
Grand Mercure Danang
mercure.com
You came to Danang for the healthy lifestyle
and La Rive Gauche doesnt want to undo all
the good work youve done on your stylish

physique. The Food for Fit buffet will allow
you to indulge in a healthy manner this Mar.
8 in freshly-sliced sashimi, enticing seafood
platters, a flavourful salad bar and a free flow
of draught beer, all to the tune of VND500,000
net per person with a 50 percent discount
for all ladies.
Hanoi
Daewoo Hotel
daewoohotel.com
Although a BBQ buffet dinner doesnt sound
like the most ladylike thing in the world,
we promise that the lady in your life wants
nothing more for Womens Day than some
great food. Luckily, Caf Promenade is
offering a BBQ buffet dinner featuring fresh
seafood and premium meat alongside an
extra-special romantic setting of flowers,
candlelight and champagne. The buffet
is VND800,000++ per adult, but for only
VND400,000++ per child, you can even bring
along the whole family to celebrate.
Hotel de LOpera
hoteldelopera.com
International Womens Day is kicking off
in superb style at Hotel de LOpera with
an exclusive three-course set dinner for
VND500,000++ per person at Caf Lautrec.
Coupled with a glass of the tantalising Bulle
de Blanquette sparkling wine, the romance of
scrumptious French cuisine will be that much
better with a little bit of a buzz to match.
Of course, the candlelight will keep things
plenty romantic you may even trump your
Valentines Day do.
Melia Hotel
meliahanoi.com
Melia Hotel wants you to take a break for
Womens Day and enjoy the finest seafood
in the city, with a special seafood treat for the
special day. Afterwards, El Patio is ramping
up Womens Day with something even more
exciting. Every female customer will receive
a surprise door gift plus chances to win
big prizes throughout the night in a special
Womens Day draw. The seafood dinner is
priced at VND815,000++ per person, and
prize winners will be announced at the end of
the night, so plan to stick around until late!
Ho Chi minh city

what s on
Stand Up and Be Counted
The Headbangers Ball

Just not feeling that bubbly, smiley
vibe you know youll have to embrace
at the other dance parties this month?
Try Saigon Hellfest 2014 instead a
gathering of six metal acts from
Vietnam and elsewhere. At the behest
of the infernal likes of Pukelization
(Australia/Japan), Human Mastication
(Philippines), Sagometal, Mephonic,
Seismic Origin and Cruel Society (all
local) theyre packing the metal into a
solitary Saturday afternoon at Metallic
Bar be warned.
Saigon Hellfest 2014 will take place
on Mar. 22 at Metallic Bar, 41 Ba Huyen
Thanh Quan, Q3, from 3pm to 8pm. Entry
is VND150,000, go to saigonmetalgroup.
com for more info
Stand-Up Saigon have already made some great strides with their
twice-monthly amateur comedy shows, and with a Tet break now
under their laugh-a-minute belts, they are back this March with two
more shows.
First up is a little night of belly-tickling fun on the top-floor
terrace of The Spotted Cow (111 Bui Vien, Q1) on Wednesday Mar.
5. VND50,000 gets you entrance and a frosty Saigon Green for your
efforts, while the Ho Chi Minh City brewed beer of choice goes for
VND15,000 a bottle thereafter. The show starts at 8pm.
The Tavern (R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Q7) is also in for some comedic
uproar from 8pm to 10pm on Thursday Mar. 13. Entrance to this
District 7 extravaganza is free of charge, but dont expect a letdown
in the quality. It will be every bit as funny as its brother-in-arms
night of stand-up at The Spotted Cow.
For more information email standup.saigon@gmail.com or go to
facebook.com/standupsaigon
Dont Feed the Monkey

As last months Melting Pot reminded us,
there is a lot of vibrant original music going
on these days in Saigon. In this Cargo Bar
local music showcase, 10 bands including
the likes of UGWAE, Space Panther, Cat
Pylon, Tofu Band, The 67s, GrowSound,
Freckled Gypsies and Applesauce will be
playing all in the glow of Space Panther
effects man Daniel Day Longs video
mapping trickery. The showcase goes from
4pm till forever.
Dont Feed the Monkey is happening on
Mar. 15 at Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4. Entry is VND150,000, and things kick off
at 4pm
A Salsa Promotion
Remember the Salsa Man, MexicanAmerican Patrick Leija? Well, the
entrepreneur of last year past is still
purveying his tasty salsa, Dos Chiles,
made up with homegrown chillis and
created using a special recipe taught by
his grandmother.
In response to the Lunar New Year,

the man behind the spice is offering a
special promotion for readers of Word.
Throughout March, buy one 375ml jar
of the good stuff and get a 30 percent
discount off your second jar. With four
options available (depending on how
much spice your palate can handle),

choose from mild, medium, special reserve
and fire, with a jar of Dos Chiles starting
at VND100,000 before discount.
Recall that BBQ or dinner party youve
been thinking about laying on? This might
just be the perfect accompaniment. And it
keeps well in the fridge, too.
To make your purchase, call 0902 527131
or email doschilessalsa@gmail.com. For more
information go to doschilessalsa.com
Womens
Ho
Chi minh
Day city
what s on
Your March Dance Party Calendar
Cesare Vs Disorder
On a night pulsing with some serious
underground house and techno, Italyvia-Berlin DJ Cesare Marchese aka
Cesare vs Disorder will be centrestage,
as he often is. His slick and deep sounds
have graced recordings on Get Physical
Records, BPitch Control and own labels
Mean and Serialism. Local Nic Ford will
be supporting.
Cesare vs Disorder is Mar. 1 at The
Observatory, corner of Le Lai and Ton That
Tung, Q1 VND150,000 entry, 10pm start
time
Heart Beat #7
So youre looking for a deep, dark
and crazy rave, filled with an eclectic
combination of techno, house and techhouse? You would like it to be delivered
through four DJs and innumerable
speakers? Mar. 7 is good for you? Ok, the
prescient partiers at Heart Beat figure
youre ready for this Heart Beat #7.
Waiting for you are some eclectic sounds,
delivered to your earlobes and fragile
cardiovascular systems by the likes of
DJ Cybersnack out of Germany, Manilabased Marshall White and Pav Parrotte,
and resident heavyweight Deejay Konka.
Heart Beat #7 is Mar. 7 at Cargo
Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4. Entry is
VND100,000, VND50,000 for students
Saigon Soul Pool Parties

Entering the second month of their
Saturday pool party residency at New
World Hotels Splash Bar, Saigon Soul

is beginning to come into its own, with
rotating DJs, drink slingers, babes in
bikinis, dudes in suits, offsite burritos
and massage therapists all rotating
around one of the best pools in Ho Chi
Minh City. Every Saturday next month,
the pool party will be the only place you
can dance your Saturday afternoons and
early evenings away in the pool or out.
Saigon Soul pool parties happen every
Saturday in March Mar. 1, 8, 15, 22 and
29 from 10am to 11pm at New World
Hotels Splash Bar, 76 Le Lai, Q1. Admission
is VND100,000, free for hotel guests. For
more info go to saigonsoul.com
a soundtrack and backstory to match.

Playing deep, organic-sounding techno
that fuses rolling electronic rhythms
with a universe of eclectic sounds of
the sort hes played for the past five
years at Pariss legendary Rex Club
DJ Pepperpot is primed to bring audial
exploration to The Observatory March
28.
Greg Pepperpot is coming to The
Observatory corner of Le Lai and Ton
That Tung, Q1 on Mar. 28, start time
and entry to be announced on facebook.com/
theobservatoryhcmc
Electric Kicks
Its the night before the annual 2,000km

bike ride a group of 15 or so cyclists have
undertaken every year since 2008, all for
the future of Vietnams underprivileged
children maybe a quiet drink and an
early bedtime is in order? Well, not at
The Observatory on Mar. 30. The day
before the beginning of their trip, H2H
is organising a fundraiser built around a
jukebox concept, where each song request
costs VND20,000, all going to support the
charitable activities of H2H. DJ Starchild
will wind down the second part of the
night, getting our pilgrims prepared for a
month with no all-nighters.
The H2H Charity Sendoff is at Mar. 30 at
The Observatory, corner of Le Lai and Ton
That Tung, Q1. Entry is VND100,000. For
more info on the ride youll be supporting, go
to h2hcharityride.org
Get your kicks on Route 66, goes the

old song, without going into what kind
of kicks. We can only guess that DJs
Superkid, Per Say and BLX ATTX werent
satisfied with the kicks available on the
USs first cross-country road, and had to
head out to Vietnam for the kind of DIY
indie electro sleazy discopunk dance
party that will be going on at Broma
Friday, Mar. 21. Be sure to clear your
schedule for the following day.
The March edition of Electric Kicks is at
Broma, 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Mar. 21, 9pm to
late. VND50,000 entry
Greg Pepperpot
Greg Pepperpot doesnt just have a
name out of a funky, absurdist French
new wave film from the 1970s, hes got
Charity Sendoff for H2H Bike

Ride
The Month in VinSpace
The Saigon Players Come in

Like Lions
Its Saigon Players 10th season, and
theres no better time to go back to basics.
Jim Cartwrights award-winning play
Two is about a night in a pub, owned by
the two unhappily married protagonists.
Throughout the night, well see our bickering
protagonists and their quirky customers go
on a rollercoaster ride of emotions, one that
some of the onlookers at La Habana and
McSorleys will know all too well.
The Saigon Players March production of
Two will play at 7.30pm on Mar. 20 to Mar. 23,
splitting the dates between La Habana (Thurs.
and Fri.) at 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 and McSorleys
(Sat. and Sun.) at 4 Thao Dien, Q2. Tickets
are VND200,000 with all proceeds going to
Operation Smile email saigonplayers@gmail.
com for enquiries and bookings
VinGallery is holding their monthly art

market this Womens Day, Mar. 8 10am
to 4pm, with a handmade card workshop
from 10.30am to 12.30pm. Along with all the
handmade art and crafts, paintings, drawings
and limited edition prints youve come to
expect, VinGallery welcomes photographers
and other crafters to showcase their works.
The midday DIY card-making workshop
comes in at VND70,000 per person, and
is a neat way to support tradition in an
untraditional way. The festivities take place at
VinGallery, 6 Le Van Mien, Q2.
Next up, on consecutive Thursdays, Mar.
13 and Mar. 20, are a pair of Canvas&Wine
workshops one focusing on life drawing,
one on movement-based poses inspired
by the dancer-centric work of Matisse
and Picasso. The Life Drawing and Painting
session is at VinSpaceArt Studio at 6 Le

Van Mien, Q2, Mar. 13 from 6.30pm to 9pm,
while the Depicting the Dance session is
downtown at VinSpace Garage, 95 Pasteur,
Q2, Mar. 20 from 6.30pm to 9pm.
At the end of the month, VinSpace will
take full advantage of their two campuses
with an international multi-contributor
exhibition entitled One Way or Another a
grouping intended to show the similarities
and differences in the way different cultures
conceptualise art. From Vietnam to France,
South Africa to Spain, Indonesia to Australia,
the featured artists will explode the notion
that there is one way to see art Mar. 21 to
Mar. 30 at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2 and 95 Pasteur,
Q1, with an opening reception at the District
2 location on Mar. 21 from 6pm to 8pm.
For more info, visit vin-space.com
SSC Scooter and Bike Rentals

Vietnams One Stop Scooter Shop
NOW IN STOCK A FULL RANGE OF OVER
100 IMPORTED PREMIUM QUALITY ITALIAN HELMETS

New Arrivals Project helmets Made In Italy
Top quality fiberglass/Kevlar helmets including stylish Caf Racer helmets,
Open Face with built in and additional Visors and fashionable kids helmets
Also in stock a full range of Italian Manufactured Vemar helmets including full face,
Race Replicas, Flip Front and Moto Cross
All helmets are rated with all major International kite marks
Contact info@saigonscootercentre.com or check out the website: www. saigonscootercentre.com
Telephone: +84(0)903013690 Address: 25/7 Cuu Long Street, Tan Binh District, Ho Chi Minh City
District 2 Branch: 80 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11am to 7pm.
VIETNAMS ONLY 100% FOREIGN OWNED AND FULLY LICENSED SCOOTER BUSINESS
Ho Chi minh city

what s on
Doc Talk
We love documentaries and thought
it was high time to organise monthly
screenings followed by discussion of
the film, themes and issues raised in the
film, reads the Facebook page of Doc
Talk a co-venture of Everyones a DJ,
Fact & Fiction Films and DocLab. This
March, the premiere event is coming,
a six-hour documentary-screening and
record-spinning affair to be held at The

Observatory on the afternoon of Sunday
Mar. 9, featuring a short Vietnamese doc,
a feature-length international one and a
sparky discussion to follow.
The inaugural Doc talk is on Mar. 9, 2pm to
8pm at The Observatory, corner of Le Lai and
Ton That Tung, Q1 VND20,000 for students,
VND50,000 for regulars
Wine and Refine

Wine Embassy is trying to create more
wine ambassadors through a new
eight-session course, covering basic
wine topics and nuance. In two, twohour sessions per month, your wine
trainers will introduce you to basic
winemaking knowledge and locationspecific understandings.
Mar. 4 at 6.30pm is the first session,
on basic wine understanding how
to make wine, and what exactly is this
thing you love so much is. The Mar.
25 session (also at 6.30pm) covers the
origin and unique characteristics of the
grapes that eventually make the magic.
Each session is VND750,000+ per
person, with a minimum booking of two
sessions paid in advance required. For
more details, visit wineembassy.com.vn or
call (08) 3824 7827
A Night in Paris
Air France KLMs 2nd annual charity gala
is gaining a reputation as a fine cause.
The evening will consist of a champagne
reception, a four-course gala dinner with
a live performance accompanying and
silent and live auctions with a special
contribution from Christian Louboutin
a pair of the designers famous stilettos
signed by Christian Louboutin himself as
the main auction prize.
Over 250 high profile guests are
expected to attend, from all nationalities
and segments of Ho Chi Minh City
society CEOs, officials and members
of the media. Tickets are VND2.75
million per person, or VND27.5 million
per table of 10. Funds raised will go
towards Consular Club Ho Chi Minh City,
HVTT Foundation, Hy Vong 1 school for
auditorily-handicapped children, Mai
Nha Children Foundation and the Nam
Phuong Foundation.
For more information contact Air France
KLM on (08) 3829 3770 or mail.hcm@
airfrance.fr. The gala takes place on Mar. 22 at
Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1. To
see an article on one of the supported charities,
Nam Phuong Foundation, go to page 24
Sheraton Indian Food Festival

In cooperation with the Consulate
General of India in Ho Chi Minh City,
Saigon Caf and two guest chefs from the
Ashok Hotel in New Delhi are presenting
an Indian Food Festival from Mar. 13 to
Mar. 15, with Indian Nights on Mar.
21 and Mar. 28. Each buffet dinner
featuring the likes of haryali kabab,
murgh malai tikka, murgh rehana and
gosht roganjosh goes from 6pm to
10pm, clocking in at VND995,000++ per
person, including a free flow of house
wine. In addition, there will be a Kalbelia
folk dance performance on Mar. 13 at
6.30pm, and Mehndi art demos on Mar.
13, Mar. 14 and Mar. 15.
Saigon Caf is at Sheraton Saigon Hotel
and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1. Visit
sheratonsaigon.com for more details
The Jungle Quadrathlon

Theres a whole year to sit behind your
desk, refreshing Facebook and shuffling
papers. But this month, the Ta Lai Trophy
formerly Madagui Trophy Corporate
Challenge demands your attention, desk
jockeys. Ride your mountain bikes through
the tough jungle terrain of Cat Tien
National Park, navigate circuitous rivers by
kayak and breaststroke, and stomp some
leeches in the jungle run. The quadrathlon
is only open to 33 companies, sending two
of their fittest competitors each. Prove that

your year of paperwork hasnt made you
soft.
Ta Lai Trophys Corporate Challenge takes
place on Mar. 15 and Mar. 16 in Cat Tien
National Park, Dong Nai Province. Company
participation costs VND4.1 million, while racer
fees come in at VND2.85 million, including
transport, meals and one night accommodation.
To register or find out more, email info@talaiadventure.vn or go to talai-adventure.vn
Time to Shine (Those Teeth)

We dont want to disappoint your children,
but most of them will never earn back the
money you poured into top-flight dentistry
by becoming movie stars. But West Coast
International Dental Clinic has prepared a
consolation prize the International Smiles
Art Contest 2014, with iPads and a camera
on offer for those whose smiles are yjr most
artistic. The contest goes from Apr. 1 to
May 15, and is open to children under 12
who have a desire to spread their dental
passions to the masses and display it on
paper using their artistic verve.
For more info, check westcoastinternational.
com
IB Malaysia
Vietnams International Baccalaureate
options just got a bit more competitive
with the emergence of Marlborough
College Malaysia, open under two years
and growing at an exponential rate.
After a successful first year of operation
in Malaysia for its initial 350 pupils, this
year has seen the number jump to 600,
representing 30 different nationalities
whose parents highly value the merits
of a first-class British boarding school
education, but in Southeast Asia.
The first international campus of the wellknown Marlborough College in Englands
Wiltshire area, from Mar. 8 to Mar. 11, school
officials including the headmaster and
director of admissions will be on hand to
meet with prospective parents interested
in hearing more. In addition, a general
information session will take place at the
Park Hyatt (2 Lam Son Square, Q1) on Mar.
9, from 10.30am to 12.30pm.
For more information about
Marlborough College Malaysia, head to
marlboroughcollegemalaysia.org. The information
session is on Mar. 9 from 10.30am to 12.30pm at
The Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q2
Mamma Mia!
The kids of Australian International
School have good taste or at least 45
million people worldwide agree with them.
For this years play, the kids have taken
on the smash hit musical Mamma Mia!
based on the songs of ABBA. Howling and
parental lineage-questioning through two
performances, the musical theatre types of
AIS will make musical history in Ho Chi

Minh City on Mar. 20 and Mar. 21.
Mamma Mia! will be performed by
secondary students at the Thu Thiem campus,
264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway),
Q2. Performances are Mar. 20 and Mar. 21
at 6.30pm tickets are available for free at
reception or via aisvietnam.com
Ho Chi minh city

Just In
The German International School Rebrands

As last month, the German International
School (GIS) changed its name to the
European International School (EIS).
According to the schools general director,
Michael Osswald, The rebranding
consolidates the schools vision and strategy.
It reflects our heritage and the successful
evolution of the school towards a truly
international school with English as the
main language of instruction and a diverse
student and faculty body.
Adopting the International Baccalaureate
Organisation (IBO) curricula, while English
will be the main language of instruction,
the school will continue to offer German

language at mother tongue level (language
A) and as a foreign language. Students
will also have the opportunity to learn
two additional foreign languages from a
language portfolio that currently includes
German, Spanish, French and in the future
Mandarin. EIS presently offers classes from
Toddler to Grade 9. In the next academic
year they will add Grade 10. The IB Diploma
Programme is scheduled to be added in 2015.
EIS is at 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, Ho Chi
Minh City. For more information call (08) 7300
7257 or go to eishcmc.com
100% Dot Com
Subway Strikes Again!

Not to be outdone by McDonalds, Subway
has opened a fifth location in Ho Chi Minh
City this past month. The walkup location
is downtown central on Le Thanh Ton,
with a balcony and ample seating and
the occasional uplifting visit from balloonwielding sandwich-shaped mascot, Mr.
Subway Dude!
Subway number five is at 26A Le Thanh Ton,
Q1
100%, a locally-sourced gourmet grocery

thats been gaining traction in Thao
Dien, is soon to be expanding its reach
to the rest of Ho Chi Minh City with
an online shop mirroring the physical
concept. From fresh fish to deli meats,
cheeses to wines to spices, new stock
comes in every week to complement
an already impressive selection all
natural, local, safe and traceable products
made in Vietnam.
Watch 100percentvn.com for
developments, or head to facebook.com/
centpercentalimentation until the new site
gets off the ground
pressfoto.com
Vietnams First Real GoKart Track
You thought you knew speed, but

the guys at Bobcat Racing are here to
reintroduce you to the concept. With
karts clocking in at a ridiculous 200cc,
the no-holds-barred racing lets you
get up to speed on a 320m track on
otherwise relaxing Phu Quoc Island.
This is real racing, height-restricted
to those over 150cm although their
Facebook whimsically adds Bobstar
Racing dont discriminate people! We
will provide pillows for shorter people.
Bobstar Racing is at 2 Ong Lang,
Duong Dong, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0939 391459.
For more info, click on facebook.com/
bobstarracing
pressfoto.com
Local Vegetables, Delivered Locally

The Vietnamese word xanh means in
English green, blue and youth. As of
now, Xanh also means access to locallyproduced vegetable baskets, delivered
to your door on a subscription basis.
Sourced from small-scale producers,
the distributor controls quality on their
own, so as not to pass on expensive
certification costs to their producers
but their quality control is thorough,
covering non-GMO ingredients, freeness

from preservatives and varying degrees
of chemical fertilisation (they require
all of their produce to be non-GMO and
free of preservatives, but will work with
producers on meeting their standards
if they are currently reliant on chemical
fertilisation).
Check facebook.com/xanhshopcom for more
information
Learn English with the Rest

of the World
English Attack! is a worldwide ESL
platform currently launching in Vietnam,
designed to change the way people learn
the language, forever (sorry teachers!).
With a curriculum woven into scenes from
blockbuster movies and cult TV shows, hit
songs and karaoke sessions, English Attack!
aims to make the transition between online
gaming and Facebook surfing to language
learning as painless as possible, all with a
very youth-centric reward of making future
TV watching a bit cooler.
For more info, go to english-attack.com
Delices Najoua
A recently set-up catering and home
delivery service, Delices Najoua, is
presently making some waves in Ho Chi
Minh City.
Serving up authentic Moroccan
cuisine anything from couscous royal,
chicken and beef tagine to chakchouka,
bakoula and a selection of North African
pastries all dishes need to be booked
48 hours in advance to ensure they
are cooked fresh and to your exact
requirements.
Cooked up by chef Najoua, who has
been living in Ho Chi Minh City since
2006, the cuisine is inspired by her
grandmothers home cooking.
For more information go to
delicesdenajoua.com or call 01225 419837 or
0987 731010
overscene ho chi minh
The Cuban Brothers
Photos by Nick Ross

Weirdly, the Cuban Brothers got so hot
in Saigons balmy weather they had to
take off all of their clothes at Cargo!
Saigon Soul pool

party
Photos by Yves Schiepek

At the kickoff Saigon Soul pool party
at New World Hotels Splash Bar,
the babes dressed down and the
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordhcmc.com and we'll take a look.
Melting pot 4
dudes dressed up. Expect similar
shenanigans every Saturday in
March

Celebrating its first anniversary, the
art-and-music festival split festivities
across the artistically fertile premises
of Saigon Outcast and McSorleys
Hcmc
march 2014
doc talk
ou watch dumb
movies with your
friends and smart
movies by yourself.
Its a flawed premise, and Fact
& Fiction Films, DocLab and
Everyones a DJ have teamed
up to get you talking.
Monkey Business
f the travails of last

months Melting Pot have
taught us anything, its
that this city has a neversay-die attitude to its music
scene. In the all-day 10-act
bill planned at Cargo, well
get the latest rewards for
our loyalty.
Mar. 9 The Observatory
Mar. 15 Cargo
01 saturday
10 Monday
future shorts film festival. 6pm @ Saigon Outcast

The Observatory presents Cesare vs Disorder. 9pm @ The
Observatory. See Whats On
11 Tuesday
02 sunday
50% discount on Frog Porridge. Until Mar. 15 @ Lion City

restaurants
Pet Adoption and Awareness Day. 11am to 7pm @ Boomerang Bar,

Phu My Hung
Saigon Rockers Reggae Sunday. From 3pm @ Saigon Outcast
12 Wednesday
03 monday
cinema paradiso: Laria serena dellOvest. 7.15pm @ Pendolasco

(87 Nguyen Hue, Q1)
04 tuesday
13 Thursday
05 wednesday
Canvas&Wine: Life Drawing and Painting. @ Vin Space (6 Le Van

Mien, Q2)
indian food festival. From Mar. 13 to 15 @ Sheraton Saigon Hotel.
See Whats On
standup comedy night. 8pm @ The Tavern. See Whats On
standup comedy nights. 8pm @ The Spotted Cow. See Whats On
14 Friday
Wine Training: Basic Wine Understanding. 6.30pm to 8.30pm @

Wine Embassy. Call 0838247827 to register. See Whats On
06 thursday
Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. From Mar. 6 to Mar. 8, 7.30pm @ Saigon
Opera House. See Big5
07 friday
The Observatory presents Maft Sai. 9pm @ The Observatory. See
Big5
15 Saturday
Seafood extravaganza. 6.30pm every Sat. @ Chit Chat Caf, Hotel
Equatorial
16 Sunday
08 saturday
Art Market. Celebrating International Womens Day. @
VinSpace (6 Le Van Mien, Q2)
Womans Day special dinner. @ Nineteen Restaurant, Caravelle
Hotel
09 sunday
doc talk. 2pm to 8pm @ The Observatory. See Whats On
Marlborough College Malaysia information session.
10.30am to 12.30pm @ Park Hyatt. See Whats On
16 Sunday
Steak Week. From Mar. 15 to 21 Premium US grilled beef @ Reflections,
Caravelle Hotel
To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com

by no later than Mar. 15 with a description of the event and a high-res photo
Saigon Player s Two
irst, imagine youre

in a bar with your
significant other, and
you get into a fight.
Now, imagine you own this
bar with your significant
other, and this happens
every night. Now, watch this
scenario acted out in a bar.
Mar. 20-23 La Habana / McSorleys
17 Monday
Aloha Cocktail Feast. Every Mon. from 8pm to 11pm with 5 specialty
flavours @ Chill Skybar
18 Tuesday
A Night in Paris
ts gonna set you back a

bob or two, this one, but
its worth it. Air Frances
second charity gala at The
Caravelle supports a number
of charity organizations
(see The Foundation on page
24) last year they raised
over VND1 billion and its
a star-studded, glitter and
glow, Parisian affair. Not to be
missed.
Mar. 22 Caravelle Hotel
24 Monday
25 Tuesday
Wine Training: Common Grapes Recognition. From 6.30pm to
8.30pm @ Wine Embassy
26 Wednesday
cinema paradiso: 20 Sigarette. 7.15pm @ Pendolasco (87 Nguyen
Hue, Q1)
27 Thursday
Daisy, Daisy. Ode of digits Exhibition by Sandrine Llouquet.
Until Apr. 25 @ Phuong My Flagship Store
apocalaughs now! 8pm @ Cargo Bar. See Big5
28 Friday
19 Wednesday
20 Thursday
Canvas&Wine: Depicting The Dance. @ Vin Space ( 95 Pasteur, Q1)
Mamma Mia! Musical by AIS students. 6.30pm @ Thu Thiem
Campus(264 Mai Chi Tho, Q2)
The saigon playerss two. 7.30pm @ La Habana. See Whats On
21 Friday
Mamma Mia! Musical by AIS students. 6.30pm @ Thu Thiem
Campus(264 Mai Chi Tho, Q2)
The saigon playerss two. 7.30pm @ La Habana. See Whats On
22 Saturday
One way or another - Contemporary art exhibition. From Mar.

21 to 30 @ VinGallery
pepperpot. 9pm @ The Observatory
29 saturday
Romantic Earth Hour. 8.30pm candlelit dinner @ Hotel Equatorial
Air France Charity Gala Dinner. @ Caravelle Hotel. Call (08)

38293770 for info
The saigon playerss two. 7.30pm @ McSorleys. See Whats On
30 sunday
23 Sunday
exhibition mau do. Until Apr. 15 @ The Observatory

h2h charity bicycle trip fund raising. @ The Observatory
The saigon playerss two. 7.30pm @ McSorleys. See Whats On
31 monday
hanoi
what s on
Health for Life
California Fitness & Yoga and Family
Medical Practice are teaming up on
Saturday, Mar. 29 from 2pm to 6pm for the
Health for Life day.
Get an inside look at how healthy your
lifestyle is and how you can make it even
healthier straight from the fitness and
health professionals. Health practitioners
from Family Medical Practice will provide
free blood pressure and vision testing,
sugar levels testing for those over 50, and a
variety of demonstrations including a CPR
demo from health specialists.
California Fitness and Yogas free body
fat measurements and nutrition and fitness
Get Spicy
CAMA ATK once again brings their
monthly salsa night to Mai Hac De from
8pm until late on Wednesday Mar. 5.
Along to the rhythms of the best salsa
tunes, dancers from beginner to expert
plus their shy, observer friends are
welcome. A great selection of cocktails
are available to loosen up your dancing
legs, and may just get your wallflower
friends or future dance partner out of
the corner and onto the dance floor. For
those with two left feet, a free minilesson from 8pm to 9pm will get you
swinging around the dance floor like a
pro in no time.
Salsa night at CAMA
ATK kicks off on
Wednesday, Mar. 5
from 8pm until late at
73 Mai Hac De. Get
there early for a free
mini-lesson from 8pm
to
9pm. Entrance is
free
demonstrations will give you the keys

to improving your overall health, plus a
free dance class thats fun and healthy for
the entire family. Great healthy food from
Dons Tay Ho will be provided throughout
the event. Dont forget to get in on the
events prize draw, where you can win big
prizes from event organisers.
Health for Life, presented by California
Fitness & Yoga and Family Medical Practice
takes place on Saturday, Mar. 29 from 2
to 6pm at Royal City Centuryon Club,
L2 Tower R3, Royal City, located at 72A,
Nguyen Trai. Get more information at
vietnammedicalpractice.com
St. Paddys for the Foodies

Movenpick Hotel is celebrating Saint
Patricks Day a bit early on Sunday, Mar. 16
with, what else, the food of Ireland.
The culinary team will prepare an
exclusive menu of Irish stew, Shepherds
Pie, poached salmon and leg of lamb along
with many other Irish specialties. To really
get you in the mood, traditional Irish music
will kick off from 11.30am along with St.
Patricks Day cocktails and a free flow of
Guinness beer on entrance. Then, continue
at Mangosteen Restaurant with a special
Brunch, complete with live music until 2pm.
Movenpick Hotels special St. Patricks Day
feast is on Mar. 16 and costs VND950,000++
per adult. Contact (04) 3822 2800 for more
information and bookings
LEspace for the Month of March

LEspace is celebrating the coming Spring
season with the best in French music
throughout the month of March, featuring
three renowned French musical artists to
grace the LEspace stage.
First up is Celina Ramsauer on Monday,
Mar. 17, a travelled musician who has taken
the stage in no less than five continents.
With her newest concept, Together, she
brings her experiences from her travels to
her music that celebrates and explores the
things that make people around the world
both different and the same.
Soon after, on Thursday, Mar. 20, LEspace
welcomes Brigitte, a French rock duo that
brings all that is sexy to the Hanoi stage.
Inspired by the power of the 1950s femme
fatale, the blonde and brunette pair combine
their vocals and provocative lyrics to their

energetic rock chimes.
Lastly comes Superpoze on Saturday, Mar.
29, who finishes off the month of March
with all of the energy electronic beatmaking
has to offer. Recently praised by astounded
audiences at the Vieilles Charrues Festival,
Superpoze brings eclectic inspiration to
his mix of jazz and hip-hop electronic
masterpieces.
Celina Ramsauer comes to LEspace on
Monday, Mar. 17 for VND120,000. Soon after
you can see the due, Brigitte, on Thursday, Mar.
20 for VND120,000. To round off the month,
Superpoze will play on Saturday, Mar. 29, with a
pair of tickets costing only VND60,000. All shows
start at 8pm and all tickets can be purchased at
LEspace, 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
Hump Days
FatCat Bar doesnt believe in counting out their weekdays, and that includes hump day.
This month, Wednesdays are big, with all four of them packed with great music. First,
get moving with Reggae night on Mar. 5.
Mar. 12 is all about acid jazz, with the following Wednesday, Mar. 19, heating
things up with ElectroSwing. The final hump day of the month is in not one, but five
languages, with multi-lingual singer Manu Chao taking centre stage.
FatCat is located at 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem
All That Jazz

Rolling off of their success with the last jazz
evening, Millennium Caf de Arts brings
back their popular jazz night on Friday,
Mar. 14 from 8pm, featuring the everenergetic Domino Band and a collection of
talented amateur musicians.
Plus, if youre planning a special
Womens Day evening, a special lunch
and dinner menu will be available on
Mar. 8, along with live music and a great
atmosphere.
Millennium Caf de Arts is located at 11
Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem
TexMex Food Festival

Movenpick Hotel and Mangosteen
Restaurant get spicy and sizzling on Friday
Mar. 14 with their TexMex Food Festival,
celebrating all that is delicious in the
American southwest.
Created by chef Trinh Cuong, the
second-Friday-of-the-month festival menu
promises favourites including burritos,
chicken, chimichangas and quesadillas
along with plenty of side dishes.
Alongside the food is a collection of
activities for the whole family, including
a dedicated playroom for younger diners.
Arts and crafts plus plenty of puzzles and
books are available to keep every diner,
young and old, plenty happy.
Open from 6.30pm until 10pm, the
TexMex Food Festival costs VND600,000
per person, with half-price discounts for
those between six and 12, and free for
under six. Entrance includes a welcome
margarita.
Contact Mangosteen Restaurant at (04) 3822
2800 for bookings. Mangosteen Restaurant is
located in Movenpick Hotel, 83 Ly Thuong Kiet,
Hoan Kiem
Hanoi Slam Takes 2014

Hanoi Slam is back with more true tales
from Hanois finest, this time under the
theme Roots on Wednesday, Mar. 5 at the
Red River Tea Room.
Ten storytellers will take to the
microphone to share their tales of defining
moments, some laugh-inducing and some
heartbreaking. All of the stories are told live
and without notes, and in the storytellers
own, authentic style.
The best stories are in line for fantastic
prizes and the chance to participate in the
upcoming Grand Slam, set for June. All
proceeds from the VND100,000 entrance fee
will go towards the Humanitarian Services
for the Children of Vietnam (HSCV).
Hanoi Slam comes to Red River Tea Room
on Wednesday, Mar. 5 from 7.30pm. Interested
storytellers should email hanoistoryslam@
gmail.com
pressfoto.com
Rockin Hanoi
Party central Rockstore is heating
things up for March, with an
entire month packed in with
music, madness and all-around
great gigs. Besides their regular
line-up of during-the-week acts
Tuesdays Thanh Danang Live Rock,
Wednesdays Ambiance and all-night
happy hour, Thursdays Hot Chicks
Band, and Sundays rock flashback
with Sunday Rock Fever a few
big names are coming up on the
Rockstore calendar.
Saturday, Mar. 1 welcomes
progressive house purveyor Ngoc
Mobile, a descent into the energetic
and out-of-body energy of house

beats. Then, on Friday, Mar. 7 comes
DJ Yagi all the way from Melbourne,
Australia to rock Hanoi.
Friday, Mar. 21 brings the Eyes
Wide Shut party with DJ BlipBlop
a big name on the Hanoi music
scene and finally, Saturday, Mar.
29 brings us back to the 1980s with
DJ Pacman.
If you had to pick just one place
to spend the month of March,
Rockstores massive event calendar
would make it an easy choice.
Rockstore is located at 61 Ma May,
Hoan Kiem
hanoi
what s on
March is for Madake
March is a big month at Madake, with
everything from swing to film taking over.
First up is Swing Night on Tuesday, Mar. 4,
which welcomes dancers from beginner
to expert level to shake their stuff on the
dancefloor to the best swing beats.
Friday, Mar. 7 is time for Ichi Sessions,
a monthly showcase featuring the wares
of local and travelling artists in the magic
Madake garden and basement.
The collective SubElements returns on
Friday, Mar. 14. A group of DJs, producers,
selectors and organizers, expect the best of
bass that Hanois dancefloors have to offer,
including dub, garage and reggae.
Finally, Friday Mar. 21 yet welcomes Movin
and Groovin a showcase of afrofunk, disco
and soul that gets the dancefloor swaying
from 9.30pm like nowhere else in the city.
Madake is located at 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
To the Summit
Summit Lounge of Sofitel Plaza Hanoi
is taking high-end dining to exciting new
levels with plenty of events through the
month of March, including Thursdays and
Fridays promising jazz and acoustic live
music and specials on signature cocktails
and fine wines. Wednesdays taste a bit

different, with specials on whisky and
a tasting flight only VND200,000++ per
person.
Summit Lounge is located on the 20th floor of
the Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh
A Kultural Experience
CyberKulture is back and taking over Hanoi Rock City on
Saturday, Mar. 15 for the best of electronic, techno, house and
electro-swing. Like every one of their quarterly parties, this
months CyberKulture promises a total re-imagination of the venue
alongside a still-secret special guest. The space and the playlist will
offer Hanoi Rock City something distinct from the rest of the citys
dancefloors, and will give attendees a taste of what the next Quest
party has in store.
Synergy presents CyberKulture comes to Hanoi Rock City, 27 To Ngoc
Van, Tay Ho, on Saturday, Mar. 15 from 8pm until late. Entrance is free
Saigon VS. Hanoi, CAMA Style

The ever-raging battle between Saigon
and Hanoi does have some perks, and
for CAMA ATK, pitting the citys party
purveyors against each other is the best
perk there is. Bringing in Everyones
a DJs Electric Kicks one of Saigons
longest-running and most successful club
nights CAMA and EADJ join forces to
present one of the best music events to
the culture capital of Vietnam. Featuring
DJ Superkid and the CAMA resident DJs,
Electric Kicks is set to bring the best of
indie rock, electro, and 1980s new wave to
the Hanoi music mix.
Everyones a DJ and CAMA ATK join
forces with Electric Kicks on Saturday, Mar.
15 from 8pm at CAMA ATK, 73 Mai Hac De.
Entrance is VND50,000
Daluva Does Supper
Metisekos Spring Update

Fashion brand Metiseko is
soon to introduce their new
line for Spring, just in time for
Womens Day. On Saturday,
Mar. 8, Metiseko will unveil
its new range of dresses, tops
and accessories at Angelina
in Metropole Hotel. This
time around, Metiseko will
be showcasing their beautiful
creations and original prints
designed with organic cotton

and natural silk for a uniquely
eco-chic twist on local fashion.
Metiseko unveils their new
collection at 9pm, Saturday, Mar.
8 at Angelina, located at Metropole
Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem.
Entrance is free. The Metiseko
flagship store is located at 71 Hang
Gai, Hoan Kiem. For more info
email nelson.lopes@metiseko.com
Daluva is taking mealtime

to epic new levels with their
introduction of Supper Club, a
monthly culinary exploration
dinner from chef Shahar
Lubin. Featuring dishes from
such vibrant ethnic tastes
as Thai-Mexican fusion and
contemporary Japanese, Supper
Club is a Hanoian foodies
dream. The very first Supper
Club will feature a five-course
tea themed dinner featuring
premium Ronnefeldt tea, with
tea being the main ingredient in
all the dishes.
Daluvas first Supper Club
comes to Tay Ho on Friday, Mar.
14. Daluva is located at 33 To Ngoc
Van, Tay Ho. Reservations are
necessary, so contact info@daluva.
com to set yourself up with one
March is for Foodies

Hanoi Cooking Centre is taking
good care of Hanoi foodies
in March, with not one, but
two great events to satiate our
cravings. First, Mar. 9 from 10am
to 3pm, creative designers whose
wares are not easily found in
Hanoi come to the HCC roof
terrace for the monthly Sunday
Market, plus plenty of foodie
goodies as per Hanoi Cooking
Centre tradition.
And, since being far away
from home can take its toll
but few things are more missed
than the traditional Sunday
roast HCC is taking good care
of our tummies, too. The foodie
paradise is kicking off their

Sunday roast on Mar. 23 with all
of the trimmings, not forgetting
the essentials of roast lamb, roast
potato, cauliflower cheese, mint
jelly and red wine sauce. Finish
up with a golden syrup pudding
with custard, and Sunday never
tasted so good.
Hanoi Cooking Centres Sunday
Roast gets cookin on Sunday, Mar.
23 from 11.30am to 3pm. The Sunday
Market on the HCC Terrace is on
Mar. 9 from 10am to 3pm. Hanoi
Cooking Centre is located at 44
Chau Long, Ba Dinh. Bookings are
requested for the Sunday lunch
contact info@hanoicookingcentre.com
hanoi
Just In
Nancy Chandlers Map of Hanoi
For most foreigners living in the cultural
capital of Hanoi, finding the best shops, food
stalls and sights come from simply spending
the time to find them. While most maps of
the city focus solely on the tourist hotspots
in the Old Quarter, three seasoned expats
who call Hanoi home have combined their
creative energies to create a new, illustrated
map thats a little bit different.
Authored by two local residents and
beautifully illustrated by mapmaker Nancy
Chandler, the Nancy Chandler Map of
Hanoi provides pinpointed destinations and
hidden alleyways for the best spots outside
of the tourist track. A perfect resource for
residents and tourists alike, the Nancy
Chandler Map of Hanoi features walking

tours that meander through Hanois less
tread streets.
Detailed area maps cover downtown
Hanoi, greater Hanoi, the Old Quarter, Tay
Ho and Ciputra, plus market maps of Cho
Dong Xuan and Cho Hom. The pocket-sized
travel companion also includes a directory
for the citys best dining and shopping, plus
must-haves for expatriates like housing
developments, international schools and
supermarkets.
Buy the Nancy Chandler Map of Hanoi
at nancychandler.net or on amazon.com.
The illustrated guide retails at US$15.95
(VND335,000)
Kub Caf
Truly in tune with what the Hanoi social
scene is missing, Kub Caf is bringing
the best of two wheels and good food
together under one roof. Having opened
just after Tet holiday, Kub Caf that is,
Kustom Urban Bikes caf, the brainchild
of motorbike enthusiasts Mai and Toby
has not just a kitchen serving anything
from fresh bia hoi to signature hot dogs, but
is also bringing in plenty of cycle-centric
events to keep things interesting.
Designed with an eclectic mix of
motorbike parts fused with a classic
restaurant interior, Kub Caf puts a
different twist on the Hanoi eatery. The
design aesthetic is coupled with a slew of
events including swap meets, racing events
and workshops. Stick around after dark
and catch some of the cafs regular live
entertainment and music.
Kub Caf is open daily from 9am to 11pm
at No. 12, Ngo 264, Au Co, Tay Ho. Find Kub
Caf on Facebook at facebook.com/kubcafe
Namaste Relocating
Indian cuisine locale Namaste Hanoi is
relocating their delicious fare to a new spot
in the city centre, at 26 Tho Nhuom, Hoan
Kiem. One of the best locations in Hanoi
to find top-quality Indian, vegetarian and
Halal cuisine, Namaste will offer the same
stellar menu at their new location, which is
set to open on Mar. 14.
The original space at 47 Lo Su will
continue service until Mar. 5, after which
the restaurant will close for the move.
As always, Namastes commitment to a
tranquil dining environment with the best in
Indian tastes and aromas will still be intact.
Namaste Restaurants new location at 26 Tho
Nhuom, Hoan Kiem will open on Mar. 14
Somerset Refurbishes
The Pie Shop

From the Western cuisine purveyors JaFa
comes a new option for Hanoians seeking
quality Western fare. The Pie Shop located
in Syrena Tower in Tay Ho opened in
November of 2013, and has a selection of 15
savory pies in classic Aussie and Kiwi style.
Including standard pies like their bacon
and egg, chilli beef and mince options, some
creative takes on ethnic fare like the tandoori
vegetable pie come in three sizes for any
stomach, plus family-style extra large pies to
feed the whole gang.

The Pie Shop is now delivering, and can
be found online at vietnammm.com. Pick
them up at their location in Tay Ho for a hot
takeaway snack or frozen for the morning
hangover.
The Pie Shop is located at the Syrena Tower,
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho and is open seven days a
week from 10am to 9pm. Contact The Pie Shop at
thepieshophanoi@gmail.com or by phone on (04)
3718 1507
As part of the introduction of a new look, the

popular luxury serviced apartment complex
overlooking West Lake has refurbished their
one-bedroom premier apartments.
The 77sqm units now come equipped with
state-of-the-art LED TV, iPad/iPod dock,
a home entertainment system and a fully
equipped kitchen, making these apartments
the perfect place to work, entertain and relax.
Somerset West Lake is at 254D Thuy Khue,
Tay Ho, Hanoi. For enquiries call (04) 3934
2342 or email enquiry.hanoi@the-ascott.com
overscene hanoi
the highway to cau

giay
Photos provided by Highway 4

Apparently the way there is by taking
Highway 4, with the restaurant chain
opening their newest space there on
Tran Thai Tong
say it with jazz
Photos by David Harris

Millenium continued its monthly jazz
nights with a range of musicians, both
local and overseas, taking to the stage
from old world to new

Daluvas monthly Around the World wine
parties continue to bring in the wine
and the customers
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordhanoi.com and we'll take a look
Sam Thi and Friends

A special reunion concert at the Vietnam
National Academy of Music celebrated
the return of European-based violinist,
Nguyen Sam Thi. All proceeds went to
charity
on the roof

Despite the cold spell and a certain festival
called Tet, the Sunday Rooftop Market
continued its second-Sunday-of-the-month
appearance at Hanoi Cooking Centre
hanoi
march 2014
Hanoi Slam: Back
to Basics
anoi Slam has been

bringing Hanoians
together for a while
now, and now it wants
to know where all these weird
stories are coming from. Hear
about 10 storytellers roots,
in advance of the upcoming
Grand Slam.
CyberKulture
ynergy is taking over

HRC with their special
blend of EDM and
spatial distortion,
promising a night like none
youve ever had.
Mar. 5 Red River Tea Room
01 saturday
dj Dan Bi Mong (Hibiya Line). @ CAMA ATK, 8pm to 12pm
02 sunday
03 monday
Vitamin B Night. @ Daluva. Every Monday at 8.30pm. Cult movies,
beer, burgers and bourbon
04 tuesday
Mar. 15 Hanoi Rock City
10 Monday
11 Tuesday
12 Wednesday
13 Thursday
Swing Madake. @ Madake, 9.30pm till late
Live acoustic and jazz, every Thursday and Friday evening. @

Summit Lounge, Sofitel Plaza
05 wednesday
14 Friday
Salsa Xao Chua Ngot. @ CAMA ATK, 8pm to 12pm

Hanoi Slam: Roots. @ Red River Tea Room, 7.30pm
06 thursday
Vi Thuy Linh Passport of Soul. @ LEspace, 8pm
07 friday
Ichi Sessions. @ Madake, 9.30 pm till late
DJ Yagi from Melbourne. @ Rockstore, 9pm
08 saturday
Fantastic Seafood Treat. @ Melia Hotel
Metiseko Fashion Show. @ Angelina, 9pm. Free entry
09 sunday
Sunday Rooftop Market. @ HCC, 10am to 3pm
Namaste Opening. @ 46 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem, 6pm

HIWC Coffee Morning. @ Van Tri, 10am. More information at coffee@
hanoi-iwc.com
SubElements. @ Madake
Jazz Music Domino Band. @ Millenium Cafe, 8pm
TexMex Food Festival. @ Movenpick Hotel, 6.30pm to 10pm
The First Supper Club. @ Daluva. Email info@daluva.com for
reservations and info
15 Saturday
Everyones A DJ & CAMA Present. @ CAMA ATK, 8pm to 12pm
CyberKulture. @ Hanoi Rock City, 9pm
16 Sunday
St. Patricks Day. @ Movenpick Hotel, 11.30am
St. Patricks Day Celebrations. @ Rockstore, 9pm
To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhanoi.com

by no later than Mar. 15 with a description of the event and a high-res photo
Brigitte DJ Pac-man
f youve seen their music

videos, youll probably be
interested in seeing them
live. This duo is femme
fatale at its Gallic finest.
his refugee of the 1980s

has taken his wax with
him, or maybe just
bought some in a store.
Either way, if you like classic
hip hop this will be your night.
Time to munch some ghosts.
Mar. 20 LEspace
17 Monday
Clina Ramsauer. @ LEspace, 8pm
18 Tuesday
Mar. 29 Rockstore
24 Monday
25 Tuesday
19 Wednesday
20 Thursday
26 Wednesday
27 Thursday
Hot Chicks Band with Annakizer Walter. every Thursday @
Rockstore, 9pm
28 Friday
DJ &ndy, Andy Crompton. @ Rockstore, 9pm
Brigitte. @ LEspace, 8pm
21 Friday
29
29 saturday
Friday
Moovin & Groovin #3. @

Madake, 9.30pm till late
Around the World Wine
Party. @ Daluva, 6.30pm to
8.30pm
Eyes Wide Shut with DJ BlipBloP.
@ Rockstore, 9pm
22 Saturday
23 Sunday
Traditional Roast with All the Trimmings. @ HCC, 11.30am to
3pm
Superpoze, Electronic Music. @ LEspace, 8pm

Health for Life. @ Royal City Centuryon Club, 2pm to 6pm. More
information at vietnammedicalpractice.com
Back to the 1980s with DJ Pac-man. @ Rockstore
30 sunday
31 monday
in the papers
The Best of the VietnameSe Press
HOANG SA ARCHIPELAGO
(VIETNAM)
TRUONG SA ARCHIPELAGO
(VIETNAM)
Vietnams Longest Sea Bridge to be Built

Fertile Ground in Vietnam
Vietnam has become the target for scrutiny
as three foreign companies American
corporation Monsanto, Pioneer Hi-Bred
Vietnam under the USs Dupont, and Swiss
Syngenta established labs in 2011 in the
country in order to carry out research and
testing on GMO corn seed varieties. The
results of the research are currently being
reviewed.
The developments follow a 2006
blueprint to develop these genetically
modified crops as part of a major
programme for the development and
application of biotechnology in agriculture
and development. These efforts are
aimed to improve crop yields that feed a
population of over 90 million people in
Vietnam. GMOs have faced intense global
pushback from activists arguing that these
crops can have negative health effects,
with nearly all of Europes food industry
abandoning GMOs. The plan in Vietnam
aims to have some GM crops cultivated
by 2015 with 30 to 50 percent of Vietnam
farmland with GMOs by 2020.
Construction on a 5.44 kilometre bridge

is set to begin soon in Hai Phong City,
establishing it as the longest sea bridge in
the country, and among the longest bridges
currently in Southeast Asia.
The project commenced on Feb. 15
and will connect a 15.63 kilometre traffic
line between Tan Vu and the port of Lach
Huyen on Cat Hai island. Around 10.19
kilometres of access road will span 5.44
kilometres over the sea to connect to the

bridge, which will feature four lanes for
vehicles and two safety corridors. Access
roads will allow vehicles to travel at
80km/h.
The massive project will cost an
estimated VND11.8 billion, with large
portions of the investing coming from
Japanese ODA. The remaining funds will
be provided by the Vietnamese authorities.
Pickpockets Nabbed
Eleven members of a pickpocket gang that
targeted foreigners in downtown Saigon
have been arrested. The gangs alleged
leaders were a 37-year-old woman, Tang
Thi Thuy Trang, and a 50-year-old man,
Chau Van Nhieu.
The gang targeted young, foreign men
by employing women to approach them
before fleeing on motorbikes. However

they were caught red-handed in the Bui
Vien area after a series of complaints from
foreign tourists.
After nine testimonies, two additional
people were arrested including a 33-yearold owner of a mobile phone shop in which
the stolen phones were sold to.
Taxi Rage
Two taxi drivers connected with the assault
of a young South Korean tourist were
arrested in Hanoi after stealing his backpack
when he refused to pay an overcharged fare.
Do Van Duong, 31 and Nguyen Anh Trai,
38 were both arrested after their alleged
assault of Lee Seang Man, a 14-year-old
Korean student who resides in China.
The assault was reported by a local
student who saw a foreign man with a
blood-covered face calling for help in Yen
My Commune. The victim was promptly
taken to a hospital before the man was
questioned with the help of a translator.
The victim reported that after he refused
to pay a VND500,000 taxi fare, the taxi driver
called another illegal driver who quickly
came to the scene. Unknowingly, the victim
then got into the new drivers cab in an
effort to escape. After once again refusing
to pay an overcharged fare, the driver stole
a backpack containing a wallet, a mobile
phone and personal papers after beating him
with a fire extinguisher.
The stolen items were eventually returned
to the victim.
1,000 New Street Names

More than 1,000 new street names have
been added to the available list by the
Peoples Committee in Ho Chi Minh City.
Including 45 historical figures of the 20th
century, one such name is that of the late
general, Vo Nguyen Giap.
Also included are Pham Xuan An,
a brigadier general, and Dang Thuy
Tram, a heroic war doctor. Many other
streets will bear the names of researchers,
artists, technologists and composers. One
street will also be named after Marxist
revolutionary Che Guevara. Two other
foreign names include Jose Marti and
Marie Curie.
Insider
A Life in the Arts // Automatic for the People // A Vietnamese Mosaic // The Workings
of GingerWork // The Riding School // Lunch for a Good Cause // Green Taste // Banh
Ran // Caf If // 27 Grill // THE STYLE RIDERS // Dhaka by Bus // Penguins, Seals and an
Echidna // The Bikers Guide to the North Thai Switchback Mountains
Photo by YVES SCHIEPEK
Arts
ART
A Life
in the Arts
One of Vietnamese contemporary arts original leading
lights, Bui Suoi Hoa shares her insights on a life of
triumphs and challenges with Kelly L. Le.
Photos by Lam Hieu Thuan
hen we think about artists,

we typically imagine quirky
individuals who fearlessly
march to their own beats,
immune to the stresses of the nine-tofive grind. They are introduced to us on
magazine covers and at gallery openings.
They seem to glide in and out of different
social circles with such charming swagger
that we wonder: Is the life of an artist
constantly filled with discovery and
excitement, or is there some gravitas behind
the carefree glamour?
Providing insight to this question is wellrespected oil painter Bui Suoi Hoa. With
over 30 years of experience, she has seen it
all the good, the bad and the unexpected
turns of what it means to be a female artist
in Vietnam.
A Life Less Ordinary

The daughter of Huyen Kieu, an acclaimed
early 20th century poet, Suoi Hoa grew up in
You do not have to constantly paint or sell

a lot of paintings to be successful. Life is
inherently rich. If you manage to imprint
some of your spirit onto canvas then
you have done well
a household where her natural talent for fine

art was not only fostered but also refined.
She was taught to appreciate Vietnamese
culture. Her father routinely took her to see
cheo, a traditional form of northern opera.
Originating during the Dinh Dynasty, cheo
generally consist of archetypal characters,
representing the full spectrum of rural life
in the Red River Delta. Each performance
is filled with vividly-coloured costumes,
lively beats and alluring melodies.
I am constantly inspired by the
compassion of cheos characters, Suoi Hoa
says. To me they exemplify the Vietnamese
spirit, and its capacity for desire despite the
fleeting nature of happiness.
Suoi Hoas commitment to explore the
depth of cheo on canvas led to early success
in her career. Dubbed one of the leading
talents of Doi Moi by Hong Kong-based
gallery Plum Blossom, Suoi Hoa became
a sought-after artist. When it was still
considered a rare accomplishment to be
able to travel internationally, she was invited

to art residencies and exhibitions across the
US and Europe.
Triumph Against the Odds

Fiercely prolific, Suoi Hoa managed to
hold her own despite being a woman in a
male-dominated industry. Her success was
particularly noteworthy in her avoidance
of public and private arts associations, at
a time when it was an accepted fact that
participation was necessary to secure ones
professional standing.
Suoi Hoa intended her works to speak
for themselves. Using distinctive strokes,
intense colours and bold composition, she
created unique imaginings of the Vietnamese
landscape and people, imaginings that echo
of both introspection and spirituality.
On a personal level, Suoi Hoa is an
exemplar of uncompromising independence.
In the 1980s, she made a life-changing
decision to leave the safe haven of Hanoi
for the frontier arts scene of Ho Chi Minh
City. She arrived in Saigon alone a single
mother with no money or job prospects.
It was a struggle to finally secure a
lecturing position at the University of
Architecture, she says of those early days.
Fortunately, I was able to sell my works
soon after. It was good timing, too, because
a year into teaching, I realised I just couldnt
seem to show up to classes on time.
Giggling bashfully, she continues, I
was worse than the students! Teaching just
wasnt for me. Come what may, painting is
my life.
The Falling Action of Success

The late 1990s was a tumultuous time for
Vietnamese art. Demand for contemporary
paintings sharply declined. Forgery scandals

caused foreign collectors to turn their
attention elsewhere.
The residue of this phenomenon can be
found across Ho Chi Minh City. Popular
hole-in-the-wall shops, particularly those
along Bui Vien and Dong Khoi, offer an
array of made-to-order reproductions of both
Vietnamese and international artists. And
while young painters have accepted this as
a fact of life, established artists have a hard
time overcoming its unfairness.
Suoi Hoa is still weary of consignments.
As she is published and featured in
collections both abroad and at home, her
primary concern is professional integrity.
More often than not, the culprits set up
a gallery as a front to start their private
collection, selling customers high-quality
replicas and keeping the originals for
themselves or worse, documenting the
series and returning all paintings to the
artist, unsold.
Trust is everything, Suoi Hoa says.
Artists dont often get to meet buyers. The
difficulties lie not in finding a gallery that
will showcase your painting, but rather in
finding one that you can build a long-term
relationship with.
The Pragmatist
For Suoi Hoa, a painter must have more
than talent to stand above the pack. To live
by ones art requires an honest assessment
of limitations. She admits that her seclusion
from public life has notable drawbacks
namely, that the next generation of collectors
are currently unfamiliar with her works.
Determined to change, Suoi Hoa is
debuting a brand new series of work at the
end of the year. Though she is optimistic
about finding the right representation for

the show, she recognises that financing ones
own exhibition at popular venues, such as
the Ho Chi Minh City Museum of Fine Arts,
can be a good alternative.
And there are other practical matters that
artists have to deal with on a regular basis.
One of the least talked about is storage.
Suoi Hoa, herself, is a victim of mould. A
few years back, she lost some of her favourite
works due to humidity. Ho Chi Minh City
is very damp, she says, especially during
the monsoon season. Unfortunately, there is
only so much you can do when it comes to
decades-old paintings.
Lessons Learned
With everything said and done, Suoi Hoa
remains as jovial and youthful as ever.
Sipping on a glass of homemade plum wine,
she wonders, What is there not to be happy
about? I have the freedom to do and be what
I am. In life, I might not have many things
but in my paintings Ive achieved much.
Every aspect of her life is in keeping with
her philosophy. She wakes up every morning
to a large studio, overlooking a breezy, lush
garden. While visitors might be wise to
arm themselves with mosquito repellent,
Suoi Hoa glides in and out of the foliate of
bamboo and vines with grace and poise.
With a shimmer in her eye and a pair of
garden clippers in hand, she seems, as her
name suggests, to be made of suoi (stream)
and hoa (flower). Dropping freshly picked tea
leaves in a brightly-coloured plastic strainer,
she says as effortlessly, You do not have to
constantly paint or sell a lot of paintings to
be successful. Life is inherently rich. If you
manage to imprint some of your spirit onto
canvas, then you have done well.
Trust is everything.
Artists dont often get
to meet buyers. The
difficulties lie not in
finding a gallery that
will showcase your
painting, but rather in
finding one that you
can build a long-term
relationship with
Cover Story
t was the late 1990s at a tiny, nameless coffee shop.

One expat was a regular, sitting on the plastic
chairs a few times a week, sipping ca phe sua da and
making polite conversation with the shops owner,
an aging and unassuming local man. But it wasnt
the coffee that kept him coming back. Hed heard
whispers that there was something spectacular only
metres away in the shop owners back garden a
treasure trove of epic proportions. It took nearly a
year before the shop owner let down his guard and
invited him in.
What he saw in the gardens messy overgrowth
were dozens of classic Harley-Davidson motorbikes,
packed tightly together and in various levels of
disrepair. Itd been years since most of them had
been driven none of them had been restored but
the collection must have been worth thousands and
thousands of dollars. When he asked the shop owner
how he had gotten them, these monuments of luxury
in two-wheeled form, he got an unexpected answer:
he had traded them for bicycles.
Between the late 1970s and the early 1980s, petrol
was in short supply, recalls the expat. People
needed to get from point A to point B, and the only
reliable way to do it was with something that required
no petrol at all. They needed bicycles.

So, desperate motorbike owners traded in their
luxury vehicles for pedal power. Yet, at a time when
ostentatiousness was the exception rather than the
rule, he kept them hidden away in his back garden
and open to the elements.
Motorbikes R Us
As Vietnam has grown richer, the once-downplayed

obsession with status has returned. And nowhere
is this status demonstrated more openly than in the
vehicle we drive whether its a car, a motorbike or
even a bicycle. No longer is a motorbike just about
getting from A to B. Now its an instrument of passion,
a vehicle of love, and an arbiter of image. Today, the
concept of storing away 100 Harleys in a back garden
is unthinkable.
Yet, becoming a country whose transport system
is ruled by the sometime humble, sometime showy
motorbike has been a long process. It is a process
that makes this country unique, since nowhere else
has succumbed to the power of two wheels quite like
Vietnam.
As George Orwell once miswrote, Four wheels are
good, two wheels are better. Karen Hewell
Automatic
for t h e
P eopl e
Photo by Yves Schiepek
A S hort History
The lifeblood of Vietnam, the motorbike has continued what the

bicycle started, an obsession for travel on two wheels rather than four.
Compiled by Ed Weinberg. Illustration by Cristina Nualart
of Motor bik e s
1950s to 1970s Mobylette.

A product of a more carefree
time, these 50cc two-strokers
cruised the streets in style,
one remembered fondly by
Mobylette enthusiasts to this
day.
1950s to 1960s BMWs,

Vespas and Lambrettas.
1960s to 1970s Honda 67.
With the oldest Vespa in Vietnam

dating to 1952, and the oldest
Lambretta, 1954, the 1950s and
1960s were the era of all things
Italian. However, the German
BMWs werent to be outdone,
also having an impact on
the market. The oldest BMW
motorcycle presently known to
exist in Vietnam dates in 1939.
These stylish numbers were

among the first wave of Japanese
motorcycles in Vietnam, and
some of the most popular. From
their pre-war heyday to now
theyve achieved mythical status,
making a comeback on the
Hanoi and Saigon streets of the
2010s.
1970s to 1980s Minsk.
1980s Honda Cub.
1980s Motorcycle Modesty.
Late 1990s
Honda Spacy.
This old buffalo was a belching,

rumbling sight even in its
production years, when the
Belarusian product terrorised
quiet streets around Hanoi. Due
to privatisation hiccups back
home, the steady flow of Minsks
into Vietnam stopped in the
2000s, and most of the Minsks
youre likely to see nowadays
have the scars to prove their
age. In 2012 after a short hiatus,
production re-started and there
is now a new range of rebranded
Minsks now called M1NSK
coming off the production lines.
These low-powered city cruisers

first took to the streets in the
1980s, where their clean lines
and modest fuel consumption
made them a favourite of a
slower-paced Vietnam. Today,
these 50cc Cubbies can still be
seen lumbering to the devilmay-care throttles of legallyhelmetless riders.
As motorbikes were coming

into vogue, Vietnams roadside
ateliers worked on a new fashion
standard. The no-peeping aprons
and colourful facemasks would
become standard wear two
decades later, when motorbikes
became a way of life.
First hitting the streets in 1995,

the Spacy was the bike of choice
for Vietnams millennial femme
fatales. Its purse-accommodating
body spelled class at a time
when semi-automatics with
their tiny storage holds ruled
the road.
2000s Transitioning
the Roadways.
2002 Yamaha Nouvo

Ushers in the Scooter Era.
2007 Honda Air Blade.
2000s to 2010s
Honda Lead.
Behind the market expansion

of the China shock and the rise
of local assemblers, motorcycle
consumption jumped from
under a half-million per year at
the end of the 1990s to nearly
three million per year at the end
of the 2000s. Motorcycles quickly
became a must-have, and just
like that the age of the bicycle
was over.
Breaking the Honda stranglehold

on the region, Yamaha dipped
out of the racing market for this
125cc entry, which brought the
scooter craze to Vietnam and
made automatic transmissions
the desired standard. To this day,
Yamaha holds 25 percent of the
domestic market.
In a long-delayed response to
Yamahas market incursion,
Honda released the Air Blade,
taking back market share in the
process only cooling off a bit
four years later, as recession hit
and the design flaws of the 2011
model became apparent.
Bulking up the purse

compartment even more, Honda
replaced its Spacy line with these
cool customers, whose 125cc
engine was powerful enough to
take its bulky back-end wherever
it needed to go.
1990s to 2000s
Honda Win.
1990s to 2000s
Honda Dream.
Not only the favourite of

motopackers, these 110cc road
warriors are exceptionally fuel
efficient and trail-tested, making
them a natural choice for the
mountains of northern Vietnam.
Along with Minsks, of course.
Actually a Super Cub, with the

engine bumped up to 100cc and
a slight makeover, the Honda
Dream took Vietnam by storm
in the 1990s, briefly becoming
Vietnams it bike before the
Yamaha takeover. These smooth
rides can still be seen under the
posteriors of the classier xe om
drivers.
Responding to new import

restrictions, Honda Vietnams
first factory was set up in Vinh
Phuc Province, 32km northwest
of Hanoi. Today joined by
a second Vinh Phuc factory
built in 2008 and a 2012 Ha
Nam Province location, Honda
Vietnam has a production
capacity of 2.5 million
motorcycles, with their bike sales
accounting for nearly 65 percent
of the market.
As the Vietnamese market

looked to be reaching capacity,
it began to be flooded with
low-priced imitations of
Japanese motorcycles imported
from China. Not only did this
jumpstart the stagnant industry
at one point accounting for 80
percent of the four-fold increase
in annual sales it also forced
Hondas hand in releasing the
Wave Alpha at a third of the
price of the companys previous
models. Behind the Wave Alpha,
Honda quickly gained back
market share, as the low quality
of the Chinese products became
more widely known.
2000s Suzuki and SYM

Try Their Luck.
2010s Piaggio.
2013 Vietnam Takes to the

Global Export Market.
March 2014 175cc

Within Reach.
Having come far from the days

when the quality of domestically
bought Hondas couldnt be
assured, Vietnam-produced
Hondas are now being exported
for sale in their country of
trademark origin, Japan. This
is only part of a new market
reality, which sees the five major
motorbike makers continually
raising their production capacity
to nearly 5.5 million bikes a
year, currently and domestic
consumption falling, now only
accounting for about three
million of those produced.
As of this month, new legislation

will allow anyone passing
the standard driving test to
qualify for an A2 license and
own motorbikes with engines
larger than 175cc which
previously was only available
to government officials and
members of motorcycle clubs.
How this will affect the desire
to keep motorbikes in-country
below the 36 million mark
targeted by 2020 there are
currently 37 million registered
can only be speculated upon.
Hoping to carve space into a

scooter market dominated by
Yamaha and Honda, Suzuki and
SYM both released automatic
models. However, despite
the modest success of bikes
such as SYMs Atilla, neither
really gained the foothold they
were looking for, and today
concentrate on 50cc naked
bikes. Together with Piaggio,
these companies share the
10 percent of the market not
controlled by Honda or Yamaha.
Piaggio rebooted its Vespa

and Piaggio lines for domestic
consumption in 2009, and
soon erased memories of the
smoking relics of yesteryear.
Nowadays, the classic lines of
bikes made in their Vinh Phuc
factory support the very chicest
of Vietnams commuters, as
well as commuters in the other
Southeast Asian countries to
which they export.
1997 First Honda Vietnam Early 2000s China Shock.

Factory Established.
Forget Clarkson, Hammond and May, Nick Ross and Yves Schiepek bypassed Top Gear
and tried the motorbikes on Vietnams roads for themselves. Eight test-driven vehicles
later, and not even a scratch to blight that perfect bodywork, together they managed to
get an insight into locally-available bikes that can get you from more than just A to Z
Top F e ar
t was 8am on Valentines Day and the sun was

burning hazily through the smog of the city. Perched
outside Saigons IBIS Hotel in District 7, we watched
the beasts arrive. First a 1962 Lambretta, or as
someone described it, sex on wheels. Italian sex on
wheels.
Was this to be our Valentines date?
Then the Hells Angels rocked up, or at least, the closest
version youre likely to find in Vietnam. Sat astride their
four Harley-Davidsons, booming rumbles preceded them
as they rolled down the road in movie-like unison. All we
needed now was an outdoor screen showing the classic
flick, Easy Rider, with Peter Fonda and Dennis Hopper
(R.I.P.) on hand to sign autographs. It was not to be.
I had spent the previous sleepless night in between a
mix of terror and self-affirmation. Ive driven bikes for
25 years, glided through Europe, parts of North America
and four countries in Asia. Thanks to a close friend, I now

own a Honda Trail Bike, a 30-year-old off-roader, and
have ridden almost every type of bike youre likely to find
on the roads of Vietnam. But never a Harley. And never a
KTM, too, one of the other speedy beasts I was going to
try. Would I be able to manage it?
The answer, as I discovered, was yes. Not always with
ease, though. The largest of the Harleys weighed in at
almost 400kg and, with its 1,800cc-plus engine, is faster
than the speed of light. Well, it felt that way.
Nought to 100kmph in under two seconds is not to be
sniffed at. But once youre used to driving a manual bike,
and have taken it through a variety of terrains, both onroad and off, converting your skills to something bigger,
more powerful and if the word is apt, better is not
such an arduous task.
So, heres the lowdown.
The Lambretta
Model: TV175
Year: 1964
This curvaceous beauty of the biking world

is so rare now, that only the collectors out
there will understand how desirable it is
to own a TV175. As owner Steve Mueller
reiterated, in its day this was a favourite of
the air pilots, who liked to cruise around
Saigon and the surrounding countryside in
Roman Holiday style. He should know. The
man behind Vietnam Vespa Adventures, he
has 75 classic Vespas in his keeping, many
used for tours. But for Steve, the Lambretta
is a little bit special.
Riding and Handling
This is a heavy bike, with the engine rattling
through every part of the body. Yet it takes
the rough and tumble of the roads with
surprising grace. And for a bike of such age,
it switches into neutral with ease.
Appearance
Italian chic. Simple yet robust, curvaceous
yet sexy. A real looker.
Engine
For a 1964 vehicle, super smooth.
Value
According to Steve, if you can find a
TV175, youll be looking at over VND100
million. Even 15 years ago when Vespas
and Lambrettas captured the imagination
of foreigners visiting and living in Vietnam,
this particular model was going for up to
VND15 million.
Equipment
Sorry?
Who its for
For people who like a Sunday drive on a
frame of beautifully crafted metal and paint.
Its a collectors bike, the kind driven by a
mod out of the cult movie Quadrophenia.
Overall
If you know your bikes, and like to go for
something classic, then Lambrettas and
Vespas may just be the models for you. Its
a love affair. But beware the spark plug.
In the rain it can get soaked and leave you
stranded.
In its day this was

a favourite of the air
pilots, who liked to
cruise around Saigon
and the surrounding
countryside in Roman
Holiday style
Did I say smooth one

too many times?
Honda Automatics
Models: SH Mode and Air Blade Deluxe

Year: 2013 / 2014
If one company can lay claim to pushing
forward the motorbike industry in Vietnam,
its Honda. From the Honda Cubs and
Honda 67s through to the Honda Dreams
and more recently the Waves, Futures,
Spacys and SHs, Honda have played a role
in making this country into the motorbikeobsessed nation it is today.
Riding and Handling
I own an Air Blade. So, comparing the
latest model to my own 2010 whizz buster
was fascinating. What improvements
would there be? As I discovered, all were
incremental and in the details. The engine
is softer, less noisy. The acceleration
is smoother, the electric starter almost
soundless. And even the speedometer has
been changed up now it has a digital
element.
The SH Mode was equally smooth.
Hondas main scooter model, it is powerful
yet to drive it feels effortless. Honda bikes
are all about a smooth, calming ride. And in
the heat of frenetic traffic they are difficult
to beat.
Appearance
Attractive with nice curves. The Air Blade
retains its sporty attire while the SH Mode
has curves and swirls.
Engine
Did I say smooth one too many times? Time
to add in the word powerful, then. For
relatively small-engine automatics, these
bikes really fly.
Value
Hondas retain their value. So, while youre
going to pay more for an Air Blade or an SH
than you would for a competitor equivalent,
the reliability of the bikes means that
secondhand they are as good a buy as new.
Equipment
Simple yet sleek, now with digital features
on the dashboard to complement all those
ometers.
Who its for
People who can afford it and in particular,
people who are searching for bikes that will
last. Here Honda is in a world of its own.
Overall
As city bikes with some speed and yet easy
to operate in traffic, both the Air Blade and
the SH Mode are in their element. Attractive
yet practical, and most importantly, a brand
you can rely on.
KTM
Models: Duke 200 and Duke 390

Year: 2013
A new addition to the Vietnamese market,
KTMs started off as off-road and racing bikes.
The recent transition of this Austrian brand
to smaller engine models is a masterstroke.
Light yet speedy, sporty yet easy to
manoeuver, their range of manual bikes in
Vietnam starts at the Duke 125 before heading
upwards into the precipices of the superbike.
Riding and Handling
Like a dream. Light but with the power of a
rocket in its spleen, the Duke 200 is only an
entry model but is something to be reckoned
with. Good in traffic, but despite its speed it
never feels like its too difficult to handle.
And then theres the Duke 390. Now were
getting somewhere.
Appearance
Sleek, orange, white and black. Sporty,
distinctive and yet easy on the eye. Has
racer written all over it.
Engine
A nice purr, a soft rumble, and when the gas
is down, the whizz of acceleration is a dream.
For the real deal, switch up to the 390. Now
were talking.
Value
The word reasonable does this brand justice.
Were not going to mention exact prices here,
but for under VND150 million you can have
yourself one helluva bike.
Equipment
Simple buttons and switches, but check out
that digital speedometer. Everything you
need to know about your bike on one simple
screen. Watching the speed go up and down
as you accelerate or change down gears adds
to the sense of usability.
Who its for
According to KTM, mainly 20 to 35-year-olds.
According to me, people who like speed
but want a bike that can navigate the city in
heavy traffic.
Overall
Possibly the perfect bike for both the city
and the open road if you like speed, that
is. The 200 and 390 are so light that you will
never feel you have too much weight on your
hands. And moving up and down the gears
were talking six in both these instances
is effortless. As is changing down into neutral.
What more could you ask for of a manual
bike, especially one negotiating traffic?
The recent transition

of this Austrian brand to
smaller engine models is
a masterstroke
The Vietnamese phrase Tien nao cua

nay comes to mind here. You pay your
price, you get your quality
Harley-Davidson
Models: 883, Forty-eight and Street Glider

Year: 2012 / 2013
Now over a century old, Harley-Davidson are
the classic American-built beasts of the road.
When I say beasts, despite their size and their
almost perfect, stuff-of-dreams black and chrome
bodywork, get these things moving and they are
light. Very light. Even the almost 400kg-heavy
Street Glide, the ultimate touring bike and the
producers best-known model, is light once you
get it past walking pace. And wow does it fly!
The recent opening of the Harley-Davidson
dealership in Ho Chi Minh City means these
bikes can now be purchased in Vietnam. And
with the HOG groups (Harley-Davidson owner
groups) already claiming scores of members, the
fascination with these bikes is set to grow.
Riding and Handling
Beautiful. Smooth with that insane comforting
rumble. Amazing acceleration, but controlled.
My favourite bike, the Forty-eight, with its
stripped down, nothing-to-hide bodywork,
was low-slung, small and light with wide
handlebars and your legs stretched out in front.
Described as an urban brawler, turning in a
circle on this boom-boom, double exhaust baby
was surprisingly easy. So easy that I must have
taken it for 10 rounds of U-turns before our
photographer finally got the shot he required.
Appearance
Black and silver and more black and silver.
When it comes to art and motorbikes merged
into one, Harleys are beauties. But for me the
real beauty of all the beasts was the Forty-eight.
Engine
The 883 was slightly tinny, but in that classic sort
of way and always with that rumble. The 1,200cc
Forty-eight was roaring, displaying a hunger for
power and a passion for speed. And the Street
Glide, designed for long-haul touring comfort,
was all strength, low-end torque and raw, horseinfused power. There was 1,800cc of it, after all.
Value
The Vietnamese phrase Tien nao cua nay comes
to mind here. You pay your price, you get your
quality. Think VND350 million and up, up and
up. Here you are truly paying for quality.
Equipment
The 883 and the Forty-eight by Harley standards
are fairly simplistic. But then its all about that
classic look. And after all, who needs all the
mod cons? Now as for the Street Glide, this is
the equivalent of a car on two wheels all the
comfort of a four-wheeler fitted into a bike.
Who its for
For someone who likes to be seen and look
mean. Owning a Harley requires a certain
outlook on life. Fortunately, there are so many
different models available that theres something
for everyone. For me? The Forty-eight.
Overall
I want it, I want it, I want it!
Z e n a nd t h e Art of
Motorcyc l e Mai nt e na nc e
Everything you thought you knew but didnt know and

certainly may want to know about owning and
driving a motorbike. Words by Hoa Le.
Getting a Motorbike License
To legally drive a motorbike with a
capacity of over 50cc in Vietnam you need a
Vietnamese license international licenses
are not valid here but can be converted into
a temporary Vietnamese drivers license.
Here are the things you need to know to get
a Vietnamese license:
Submit an application package including
a copy of your valid visa and passport and
six photos.
Take a medical check which tests your
eyesight and general health. This takes place
at the driving test site before you take the
test.
Take the driving test. Youll need to drive
around a short figure of eight and obstacle
course usually involving a few speed bumps
and a corner, without stalling or putting
your feet down. If foreigners
have a motorbike or car driving license

from overseas, they are not expected
to complete the written test as it is in
Vietnamese. But if you do, youll usually
be provided with a translator.
Wait 10 to 15 days to receive your
license if you pass the test.
Fee: VND225,000
In Hanoi, visit the Centre for
Automotive Training and Mechanism
(83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3942 2715). In Ho Chi Minh City,
contact the Office of Transportation (63
Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3760). In
provincial areas, you should consult local
police authorities.
An international drivers license or your
home countrys drivers license can both
be converted into a temporary Vietnamese
drivers license but in the latter case,

youll need to get your license translated
into Vietnamese before applying. Contact the
offices above for further information.
Big Bikes
For motorbike under 50cc such as a
Honda Cub 49cc, you dont need to
apply for a driver s license. Starting
this month, you can apply individually
for a special driver s license for riding
a motorbike with a capacity over 175cc.
This was not possible before as it was
required that you be a member of a
recognised motorcycle club. Youll
need to do a test on a 250cc motorcycle
no matter what bike capacity youre
applying for. Contact the offices above to
get more information.
Getting Insurance
It is compulsory that you have a civil
liability insurance when driving a
motorbike in Vietnam. It costs VND66,000
per year for bikes of under 50cc and
VND80,000 per year for bikes of under
150cc. This is to cover up to VND50
million if the driver damages property,
gets injured or dies from an accident. Bao
Viet, Bao Minh or Pijico are the three major
companies that you can get this insurance
from.
Another type of insurance you can
buy to protect your bike or increase your
coverage is the voluntary third party
liability. This can cover up to US$20,000
(VND420 million) and you pay a fee of
about four to five times higher than the
compulsory fee or from 0.1 to 0.2 percent of
the value of your motorbike. This insurance
wont cover you if you fall or lose some

parts of the bikes. You also need to legal
documents to show that you own the bike
or the benefits will go to its legal owner
or sometimes no-one when ownership
cant be proven.
This insurance also only pays for full
loss or full forcible theft. If your motorbike
is brand new, you need to agree with the
insurer that they will pay the brand new
price for one year or at least six months
otherwise you may be stuck with the
market value this can be much lower.
Effective medical treatment in case of an
accident requires good medical insurance.
This can cover your hospital treatment,
evacuation and post-hospital treatment
including rehabilitation in Vietnam or
other countries such as Thailand,
Singapore and even Europe and North

America.
While an international insurer may not
over-scrutinise if you have an accident, a
Vietnam-based insurance company will
check the situation carefully before they
decide to cover your case. They will need
proof that you can drive legally in Vietnam
including your drivers license, a valid
visa and passport, and whether or not you
were wearing a helmet. Police records,
a hospital admission form, a doctors
declaration and accident claim forms are
all taken into consideration. A locally
based insurer will also want proof of no
drug or alcohol usage.
For more details about insurance,
consult your insurance company or contact
If Consulting (insuranceinvietnam.com).
What to Look For When Buying a Bike
General Laws
Owning a Motorbike
Here are a few tips for you if youre thinking

about purchasing a secondhand motorbike:
A Honda is many peoples first option as
its reasonably priced and reliable. You can
find many Honda dealers or shops around,
so its easy to replace parts or fix when
necessary.
Make sure the bike is an original and
its parts havent been changed. You can
take the bike to a reputable garage, shop or
mechanic to have it checked. Even better, get
a mechanic to take a look at the bike before
you buy it.
Make sure the bike has a registration card,
a frame number, an engine number and a
number plate that all match up.
Whether you buy a brand new bike or a
secondhand one, you should always make
sure you have papers. No papers means no
insurance claim if anything goes wrong.
Youll need to obey these rules if you want to

be safe on the roads and not get pulled over:
Drive in the lane for motorbikes when
youre in the city. When you go outside of
the city, be aware that some highways are for
cars only.
Go under the speed limit. Unless
marked otherwise, its 40km/h in the city
and 50km/h outside the city for normal
motorbikes.
Always bring a valid Vietnamese
drivers license with you when riding a
motorbike over 50cc.
Wear a helmet at all times, including
when travelling as a passenger. Violation
will result in a fine of up to VND200,000.
Make sure the motorbike has simple
components such as wing mirrors and
working front and rear lights.
There is presently a crackdown on
signaling. So get into the habit. Indicate not just
when turning, but when changing lanes, too.
Make sure you take your motorbike for

scheduled maintenance and servicing. Good
bike rental places provide you with monthly
servicing.
If you need to change parts, go to
reputable garages or your bikes dealership.
There are chances that you will get inferior
copies when you buy on the black market or
in small shops.
Always make sure the tyres are pumped
to the correct pressure because it makes the
bike safer and easier to ride. The standard
pressure is 30 psi (about 2.1 kg/cm2). The
front tyre often needs a bit less air than the
rear one.
Always adjust the brakes to the right level
and regularly lubricate them.
Change your engine oil regularly. Make
sure you use good oil (see the next column).
Inferior quality oil can affect performance
and damage the engine.
What to do in an Accident
Here are a few tips from the doctors at FV Hospital:
F or
abrasions , bleeding . While a

severe abrasion should be seen and cleaned
by a physician, you can do some things to
promote healing. First, because abrasions
can easily become infected, you should
clean the area thoroughly and remove any
dirt and debris. Ideally, you want to irrigate
the area with a nontoxic surfactant such as
0.9 sodium chloride or Shur-Clens with a bit
of pressure (use a syringe if possible). The
area must be completely clean. If necessary,
use a clean gauze to gently scrub the area.
Do not scrub vigorously, as this can cause
more tissue damage. Check your tetanus
immunisation as well.
F or
sprains . Begin RICE (an acronym

for rest, ice, compression and elevation)
immediately. Delaying this could mean more
pain and swelling, and a longer recovery
period. So start these self-care steps the
minute youve sustained an injury
R est . Cut back on normal daily activities and
Oil & Lubricants

Use products from reputable companies
because good quality oil protects the inside
of your engine. Module, Castrol or Shell
Gold are among the better oils out there.
Depending on the quality of the oil, how
often you ride the bike and the conditions
you ride in, engine oil should be changed
accordingly. In perfect conditions, it can be
changed after 3,000km. But if youre riding
through rivers or during rainy season,
change it more frequently.
Check the level of the oil by using the
dip-stick. It should always be full.
When you have your oil changed at a
garage, make sure its new and the bottle
hasnt been opened yet. If you dont have a
choice, make sure the colour of the oil is OK.
The new oil should be the colour of honey or
light Lipton tea. Black is not good and needs
to be changed.
avoid putting weight on the injured body part.
I ce . Use an ice pack on the injured area for
10 to 20 minutes at a time, anywhere from

four to eight times per day. Dont use the ice
pack for longer than 20 minutes, and wrap
it in a T-shirt or thin towel so you dont burn
your skin.
C ompression . To reduce pain and swelling,

wrap the injured area with an elastic
bandage or another doctor-recommended
compression brace or device not too
tightly, though. And ask your doctor for how
long and how many times each day.
E levation . Use pillows or blankets to raise
the injured limb above the level of the heart to

minimise swelling.
M oderate
to
S evere H ead I njury
a) Call emergency right away. FV

Hospitals emergency number in Ho Chi
Minh City is (08) 5411 3500 and the French
Hospitals number in Hanoi is (04) 3574 1111.
b) Check the persons airways, breathing

and circulation. If necessary, begin rescue
breathing and cardiopulmonary resuscitation
(CPR).
c) If the persons breathing and heart rate
are normal but the person is unconscious,
treat them as if they have a spinal injury.
Stabilise the head and neck by placing your
hands on both sides of the persons head.
Keep the head in line with the spine and
prevent movement. Wait for medical help.
d) Stop any bleeding by firmly pressing
a clean cloth on the wound. If the injury is
serious, be careful not to move the persons
head. If blood soaks through the cloth, do
not remove it. Place another cloth over the
first one.
e) If you suspect a skull fracture, do not
apply direct pressure to the bleeding site, and
do not remove any debris from the wound.
Cover the wound with sterile gauze dressing.
f) If the person is vomiting, to prevent
choking, roll the persons head, neck and
body as one unit onto his or her side. This still
protects the spine, which you must always
assume is injured in the case of a head injury.
Children often vomit after a head injury. This
may not be a problem, but call a doctor for
further guidance.
g) Apply ice packs to swollen areas.
A more serious head injury that involves
bleeding or brain damage must be treated in
a hospital.
F or B roken B ones
a) If the skin is injured, it should be treated

immediately to prevent infection. Dont
breathe on the wound or probe it. If possible,
lightly rinse the wound to remove visible dirt
or other contamination, but do not vigorously
scrub or flush the wound. Cover with sterile
dressings.
b) If needed, immobilise the broken bone
with a splint or sling. Possible splints include
a rolled-up newspaper or strips of wood.
Immobilise the area both above and below
the injured bone.
c) Apply ice packs to the injured leg or arm
to reduce pain and swelling.
Motor bik e
C lubs
in
Ha noi
Keen to roll with other petrol heads? David Mann visits two of Hanois
largest motorcycle clubs to get the word on Vietnams burgeoning motorbike scene.
Photos by Francis Roux, translation by Tran Phuong Dung
here are many reasons to love

a Harley-Davidson, explains
Nguyen Viet Tao, president of
Hanoi HOG more formally
known as the Hanoi Harley Owners Group.
They are iconic, sexy and manly. They also
represent freedom and a brotherhood that
has translated very well in Vietnam.
HOG Hanoi is one of four motorcycle
clubs based in the nations capital and
devoted to worshipping iconic brands,
joining a Royal Enfield club, a Ducati club
and the nations oldest club, Moto Hanoi.
Aided by the 2007 loosening of restrictions
on importing high-powered foreign bikes,
its no surprise that a vibrant motorbike
subculture has emerged in a country with
around 37 million motorbikes.
And while typically a preserve of the
wealthy, Vietnams fast-growing economy
and progressively open market is paving the
way for more motorcycle clubs.
HOG Hanoi
HOG members share the creed of HarleyDavidson riders everywhere: theyre tough
and they live on the edge.
For any normal person, piloting an

1,800cc Harley-Davidson (equivalent to the
combined power of 15 Vespas) through the
streets of Hanoi would be, well, terrifying.
As such, it takes a particularly brave
adrenalin junkie to roll with these guys.
Although one of the newer clubs in Hanoi,
having only been founded in 2007, HOG
Hanoi have seen a steady rise in members.
The opening of a Harley-Davidson
showroom in Ho Chi Minh City proves
these bikes are becoming more popular in
Vietnam, says Tao. In our club alone we
have over 60 bikes.
The club meets every Sunday and
conducts monthly rides out of the capital.
The weekend I talk to them, they are heading
to Halong Bay to meet with other motorcycle
clubs from around Hanoi.
The relationship between motorcycle
clubs is good here, he says, although he
admits it hasnt always been this way.
Much to my own surprise, Tao explains
Vietnam has a growing list of paved
highways well suited to long-distance
cruising. It has happened over the past two
or three years. Now, there are more beautiful
roads to ride on than before.

He adds: We often go touring on the big
highways to places like Quang Binh, Bac
Kan, Sapa, Son La, Dien Bien Phu and even
along the Ho Chi Minh City Highway.
The club is as authentic as any HOG
chapter you will find in the US, with the
same raucous enthusiasm for Harleys as
their American counterparts.
The Harley-Davidson logo is proudly
emblazoned across T-shirts and leather
jackets, worn with reinforced Blundstone
boots. To Tao, it is a thing of beauty.
Weve had visitors come to Vietnam and
be blown away by the brotherhood we have
formed here and even by the calibre of bikes
that are available, he says. It is a great time
to be part of a club in Vietnam.
Moto Hanoi
Its a sentiment shared by Lan Van Nguyen,

president of Vietnams oldest motorcycle
club, Moto Hanoi.
We were the first club to be officially
recognised by the government, he says
fondly.
The club boasts a wartime history dating
back to 1962. Back then, a handful of

members helped to ferry goods and letters
between provinces. Later, the club shifted
its focus to performances, where members
(both men and women) would perform
tricks on their motorcycles as entertainment.
The clubs website is a fascinating collage
of images depicting members in a range of
gravity-defying acts.
We celebrated our 50th anniversary in
2011 and every year we have a party where
we invite our old members back, says Lan.
We have a very rich history.
Now the club dedicates itself to charitable
causes. Members form motorcades for
cyclists and host a wide range of charity
events including blood donation drives.
Moto members can even be seen riding
around the streets of Hanoi bearing the
national flag.
In 2010, we even provided a guard
around riders who cycled from Ho Chi Minh
City all the way to Hanoi, says Lan.
The club now meets monthly to decide
on group rides, occasionally linking up with
other clubs in Hanoi. In the past, the club
has ridden to Hai Phong, Danang, Ha Giang,
Sapa and even toured the famed Highway 1

route from Hue to Hoi An.
The club welcomes anyone with a
motorbike and passion for riding, and even
claims a clutch of enthusiastic foreigners
from Canada, the US and The Netherlands.
Lan says that most of the clubs members are
between the age of 25 and 30, but that ages
vary from as young as 18 to well over 60.
We also do a lot of workshops around
safety and getting to know your bike, he
adds. After 2007, when it became easier to
buy powerful bikes, we got a lot of young
people joining.
According to Lan, younger generations
are becoming even more active in
motorcycle clubs, aided by the rising
incomes that older generations didnt have
access to in the past.
They have more bikes to choose from
and more money to enjoy them. Ive been
able to share this passion with my children.
While the authorities look to find ways to
manage the increasing hordes of motorcycles
cavorting their way down the roads, it seems
Vietnams passion for two-wheeled vehicles
shows no sign of slowing down.
Information
For more information on the HOG club ,
go to facebook.com/hanoichapter.vn for
the Hanoi Chapter. The Saigon club can
be found at facebook.com/hog.saigon.
M oto H anoi is online at motohanoi.
vn and facebook.com/moto.hanoi and is
located at 36 Tran Phu, Hoan Kiem.
The are also some motorbike clubs in
Ho Chi Minh City including S aigonmoto
C lub (saigonmoto.com.vn) and the
best known, ACE MTSG . Check out
their website acemtsg.com. They also
have a caf at 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1.
T h e Bik e
Pi mps
Love it, hate it, like it, lust it, make your bike into something just
that little bit special. Here are 10 owners who got into pimp mode.
Compiled by Hoa Le and Nick Ross
Owner: Mai
Model: Honda Cub
Modifications: A fully-restored, enhanced 110cc engine and frame with
custom six-layer paint work (candy green). Matching leather seats with
leather handgrips and Japanese running gear.
[BIKE 1]
Owner: Toby
Model: Honda Cub 90cc
Modifications: Honda Win swing arm, custom-made
handlebars, flat tracker 18 wheels and tires, 30cm
extended frame with 15-degree raked front forks,
67 tail light and custom mud guards.
Owner: Mr. Dung

Model: Kawasaki Z1000
Modifications: Inspired by the Ducati concept, except
for the engine, gas tank, saddle and front lights, most
of the parts have been replaced. The rear tyre, forks
and exhaust pipe are imported from Thailand; the rear
frame holding its monster back tyre is made from a
180kg aluminum piece; the engine cooling system has
been placed in the front, under the lights.
Owner: Viet
Model: Honda 67 (50cc)
Modifications: Installed a 100cc engine, modified the gas
tank and straightened the handlebars.
Owner: Thiep
Model: Cub 79 (50cc)
Modifications: Gearbox changed from three to four
ratios, 100cc engine installed, bigger tyres, electric
starter, handlebar and lights all replaced.
[BIKE 6]
Owner: Damien
Model: SR 250 Yamaha
Modifications: Frame de-tabbed and shortened; flat pan
seat, bare metal, pinstriped and aged fuel tank, Daytona
handlebars and Coke bottle grips; custom front and rear
lights. All electrics hidden. Shortened suspension. Flat
black wheels and dual sport tyres. Custom exhaust.
[BIKE 7]
Owner: Huy
Model: Full custom
Modifications: BMW classic Boxer frame with Honda
250cc engine installed, flat tracker tyres, custom seats
and much more.
[BIKE 9]
Owner: Jeff
Model: 2011 Gia Toan Motors 50cc Solowins
Modifications:
Customised front fender, handlebars. Custom-made tank
(10 litres), seat with storage compartment, side covers,
extended swing arm, rear fender, number plate holder
and tail light combo. Replaced rear wheel and tyres.
Owner: Scott
Model: 1965 Lambretta Li Series 3
Modifications:
Mod-style bike (think Quadrophenia) with fog lights,
period accessories, aerials, badges and other era
paraphernalia.
Builder: Pat (now with a new owner)

Model: 1965 Lambretta Li Series 3
Modifications: Transformed into a chopper Lambretta
which required just about every modification you can
think of from extending the frame through to engraving
and changing up the engine cylinders to 200cc. This
was a week-by-week, Sunday afternoon project that
took seven months.
HJC RPHA-10 Jorge Lorenzo Replica
Andes A.3000
HJC CS-R1
Price: VND11.05 million
The strong yet lightweight shell is a composite

of carbon fibre, aramid epoxy, fibreglass and
non-woven fabric, making for superior fit and
comfort.
Made of ABS plastic, and giving the most

protection in the Andes line, this helmet is
also designed for comfort with a
flip-up double visor.
Using CAD technology, the HJC CS-R1 is

built from polycarbonate composite, with
95-percent UV protection and removable
crown and check pads.
Vemar Dirty Range Ithilbor XP8C302
Andes 611
Shark RAW
With a loud design on its shell, this off-road

helmet is the style pick of the litter.
A lightweight and simple-looking modular

helmet, it also has a removable chin guard.
A helmet for the zombie apocalypse, its

constructed from injected thermoplastic
resin, with an anti-scratch cover and
anti-fog visor.
H e ad First
As bikes get bigger and texting fingers get itchier, its up to a new generation of
helmets to save us from ourselves. Compiled by Vu Ha Kim Vy
hanks to helmet laws that were

applied to the whole country
in 2007, the domestic rate of
accidents has decreased every
year since. In 2008, fatal accidents
went down by 1,400 cases and injuries
dropped 2,200 cases compared to the
previous year. Yet, according to a

report of the National Traffic Safety
Committee, there were 458 accidents
causing 212 dead and 481 injured during
Tet 2014. In spite of the high rate of
accidents, fake and low quality helmets
still are seen around the country. Here,
Word gives you our selection of the

best helmets available in Vietnam,
encompassing full-faced and doubleglassed protections, on-road and
off-road designs, all of which will keep
you looking cool and stylish while still
protecting your brain.
Andes 210
Project Smarty SMV02
Project Flash Barry AV 83
A standard certified, light and compact

helmet that fits easily into the boot
of your bike.
This Italian import is designed for young

people with a removable and washable
interior, as well as a quick-release buckle
with micro-sensitive adjustment.
With a shell made of Kevlar and three types

of interchangeable visors, the AV 83 is
suited for a wide variety of uses. It can even
be used as a helmet.
Andes 202FB
Vemar Urban Range Zero JBA1
Project Cafer Racer Hd Custom

Nero Lucido
Styled as a demi-jet open face helmet, this

white number has a dual visor to help
wearers protect their eyes during both day
and night riding.
This Italian imports has one upper air

intake, two laterals and three rear extractors
for air to pass through, making the inside
cooler and less humid.
Built with fibreglass and little else, this

visor-less helmet is a good pick for those
who love the air and wind touching their
skin as they drive around the city.
Quality Distributors
A ndes S howroom N o . 1
112 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, HCMC

Stocks Andes helmets exclusively
M oto W orld
95 Nguyen Van Cu, Q5, HCMC

Offers a wide range of HJC helmets and a
selection of Sharks
S aigon S cooter C entre
The Helmet Washing Bag

A newly released, made-in-Vietnam product aimed at the motorbike market lets
you safely and easily wash your helmet in a washing machine. The collapsible bag
will protect both helmet and washing machine. Available in different helmet sizes.
For more information, please visit the company website, mimimi.com.vn
80 Xuan Thuy, Q2, HCMC

Stocks Vemar and Project helmets, offering
shipping throughout the country
HJC S howroom
388 Cau Giay, Hanoi

Stocks HJC helmets exclusively
H uyen A nh
23 Nguyen Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Offers Andes, Honda, HJC, Arai and ACE
helmets
How to Replace a Tooth in Vietnam
irst, lose the tooth. In dramatic fashion

is best. People will ask about it, its
better to have a story to tell.
Heal up. Watch some movies during
this. Dont think about anything, because
your mind will inevitably be pulled into
regret.
Someone will text you, and give
you a recommendation. The place they
recommend will be expensive, but youll
go there anyway. You dont want to make
two mistakes.
Your VND300,000 a day budget will
be f-cked. Youll think about this, and
the fragility of life. Youll commit to
VND30 million in root canals, chippedtooth buildups, and a two-session crown
implant.
People will take your stitches and
broken teeth as an OK to divulge their
own past experiences. Most will be simple
anecdotes, some will involve tragedy.
The take-home point will either be sh-t
happens or youre lucky both of
which you know. Take it in good humour,
with a minimum of bitterness. Look at
their healed wounds and fixed teeth and
think of the future, when all this will be
behind you, too.
After two hours in the dentists chair, tell
the dentist she didnt get it quite right. She
will frown and ask if youre sure after
all, shes taken your bib off. Youll want
to get this right, unlike all the barbers
mirrors youve ignored. Youll bite down
and it wont be the right feeling, then the
realisation will wash over you that the
feeling will never again be right.
Youll probe the inside of your new tooth,
and it will feel too long, contoured in the
wrong places. It will make you sad. Youll
realise with a numbness that touching your
real teeth never made you happy.
People will compliment your new tooth,
theyll ask where you got it done. Some will
ask how much you paid. Some will tell you
you paid too much.
One guy will lift his upper lip to show off
his fake front teeth, boasting they cost only
VND4 million. Youll admit they look good,
and youll question your own choice. You
wont tell him this, and will go on to change
the subject.
Youll have to be patient, it will be another
while before you smile wide enough to show
off your own. Ed Weinberg
Unluc k y
Theres a downside to the speed and chaos of
driving in this country, and three of our editors
have felt it personally. These are their stories.
Photo by Mads Monsen
Close Call
t was like a scene from a movie. I was

lying on the street, staring up towards
long grass and more than half a dozen
people. I would have liked to take a
picture, had I been able to at the time.
A few minutes prior, I was running
against time, trying to make it to Dalat
before dark. I hadnt fixed my headlight, and
I wanted to avoid staying in a hotel along
the way. I felt like I could make it it was
only 5pm and about 60km left but I must
have gotten tired somehow. My inevitable
encounter with a car sent me sliding along
the street for metres. The police later showed
me a photo of the skid marks, and it seemed
like I had been going too fast. Im guessing,
though, since I couldnt tell the speed. The
speedometer was broken, too.
As I hit the street, my collarbone snapped
and my ribs were grazed, but I was lucky
that it wasnt worse. I got up, felt a stab
in my chest. Breathing and walking with
difficulty, I ran to the side of the road as fast
as I could. I thought: what if these breaths

had been my last? What if a car had run me
over? What if nobody had found me lying
there? In such moments of pain, the fear
comes easily.
One of the bystanders took me to the
hospital in their car. Comparing the X-ray I
got a week later in Saigon with the one from
the day of the accident, I realised that my
bus journey to Saigon didnt help my injuries
much. But in the end it healed anyway,
without an operation the one good thing
about collarbone fractures.
Although on the day of the accident
I promised myself to no longer drive
in Vietnam, I eventually broke my own
promise. As if not enough things were
broken in this story, the accident was also the
end of a kind of love story that later led to a
broken heart. Even later a friend diagnosed
my broken heart as broken pride. But no
matter what, most breaks will someday heal.
Yves Schiepek
The Head Injury
t was the day after it always is

when the reality comes into play. I was at
lunch with three friends in a restaurant in
Hanoi. My head was misshapen. Swollen.
And a patch of gauze and cotton wool was
taped to my left temple. Underneath was
the gash, the gash caused by being cut up
by a truck as I was leaving Yen Bai the day
before.
Have you been to the hospital yet?
everyone seemed to say to me in unison over
our Italian starters. Its a head injury. You
need to check it out. They seemed to stare
at me as if I was a being from outer space,
but I could tell their thoughts. Why is he here?
Is he okay?
I was still giddy, reeling from the accident,
seeing the moment as my vision went from
driving a motorbike at 50km/h to turning
sideways in slow motion as I hit the asphalt.
And then the next memory. Disorientated,

people around me cleaning up the blood, my
colleague Aaron looking me in the eyes to
see if I was okay. My low-grade helmet had
cracked on the asphalt, making an incision
into my head. Despite its inadequacy, it had
saved my life.
The mains came out. Pastas, gnocchi, a
meat dish of some sort. The conversation
shifted. I was able to focus and get involved,
but my head was starting to throb. Once
again the conversation returned to the
injury. I was being stoic and trying to move
on, but I had to have someone check this
thing out. Head injuries are dangerous,
I remember someone saying. That was the
line I needed to change my resolve.
After the accident I was driven first to
the hospital in Yen Bai and then the train
station. My bike had survived with
scratches. So had I. If Id hit the truck,

I kept on saying to myself, if Id hit the
truck, I wouldnt be here. The image of
being tangled up in its wheels came to
me like a horror show. But somehow as I
fell Id skidded myself out of the way, a
reaction which saved my life. Then there
was the trip back to Hanoi, by train, my
bike stored in a back compartment, me sat
uncomfortably with Aaron on wooden seats
in a carriage.
Dont worry, its covered, said a friend
as the bill came out. But youll promise
youll go to the hospital?
I made my promise and did just that. There
wasnt much the hospital could do beyond
X-rays, medicine, cleaning up the already
stitched wound and observation. But having
the care of professionals was important. I was
lucky to be alive.
Nick Ross
Arts
Photography
A Vietnamese Mosaic
On the back of the release

of his book, Vietnam: A
Mosaic of Contrasts, Word
speaks to Hoi An-based
photographer and
restaurant owner,
Rhahn Croquevielle
very photographer understands the

difficulty of editing. It is an arduous
task that doesnt just involve postproduction and work in Lightroom,
Bridge or Photoshop. Its the problem of
whittling down a large amount of photos
to a small selection, to a usable, perfectly
chosen amount.
In Rhahns case, the task was oppressive.
After just over a year in Vietnam he had
30,000 images taken from around the
country. When he decided he was going to
put together his book, Vietnam: A Mosaic of
Contrasts, he had to edit down to 145 photos.
It was so hard, he says. My first
selection took two months. I was then sure it
was all good, until I noticed I had 300 photos
and I had to remove half of them!
Like so many others who have left their
countries for foreign climes, Normandyborn and raised Rhahn arrived in Vietnam
seeking new opportunities. Having travelled
to over 30 countries, the more he went
abroad, the less the communication agency
and printing house owner wanted to come
back to France.
So, in 2012 the 32-year-old upped roots
and seized the opportunity. He moved to
Hoi An and set up a restaurant, ENJOY,
which also contains a small book shop and a
photo gallery.
Leaving a nine-to-five job provided him
with another opportunity the chance to
travel and follow his passion and obsession,
photography. The resulting coffee tablestyle work shows a Vietnam of the past,
an impression of a country that will soon
disappear.
Vietnam is a mosaic of colours, contrasts, light and ethnicities. Hundreds of

different faces, completely different, that make up one single country
What is meant by the books title,

Mosaic?
Vietnam is a mosaic of colours, contrasts,
light and ethnicities. Hundreds of different

faces, completely different, that make up
one single country. Its the same with the
landscape. The colours of Bai Sao Beach in
Phu Quoc, terraced rice fields in Mu Cang
Chai or Sapa, the red sand dunes of Mui Ne,
the yellow walls of the old city of Hoi An,
or even the salt fields next to Nha Trang. All
this shapes one country.
A lot of your work is portraitbased. What fascinates you so

much about peoples faces? Does a
good portrait need to be set up or
should it be natural?
I think the best way to take a good portrait
is to take your time. A good portrait will not

come out in five minutes. Sometimes I spend
an hour with my subject.
I am a very sociable person. I love to
discover, understand, learn and explore the
people that I work with. As a result, every
single moment that I capture is natural and
comes during my interaction with them.
To me, a good portrait is composed of two
people: the model and the photographer. Its
the communication and interaction between
the two that produce a natural effect.
How do you get to know your

subjects? Do you speak Vietnamese
or do you have an interpreter?
I am learning Vietnamese and sometimes
I travel with a Vietnamese friend. But as I
have encountered a variety of Vietnamese
people, I have learnt to speak the language

in the context of getting to know them. It
is important to take the time. Also, hearing
a foreigner speaking their language makes
them laugh, which opens many doors.
The lifestyle images in your

book seem to focus on rural
Vietnam. Why did you focus on the
countryside and ethnic minorities
rather than the life of the big
cities?
I am not so fascinated by the big cities,
which I think are starting to resemble cities

in developed countries. In addition, people
do not have much time to stop and chat,
and when they do, they ask for money. In
the mountains is where we find Vietnam
in its truthful, traditional form colourful
costumes, people who live life slowly and

gently. They have more time to interact with
you. I also love the different ethnic faces:
their skin colour, eyes, beards. I love to ride
on my motorbike in far off regions, where
not many people go.
Is the purpose of your book to

show Vietnam as it is today or the
Vietnam that is gradually being
lost?
I think that unfortunately for photographers
and tourists, the ethnic minorities are

blending into mainstream life. Many have
already given up their costumes and traded
them in for jeans and T-shirts. It is inevitable.
In the future, no one will wear these
costumes yet they are so colourful and
beautiful.
How did you get started in

photography?
I started getting into photography three
years ago, but I started in depth when I

moved to Hoi An. It was a question of
time, which I did not have. When you take
pictures during five weeks of holidays
(in France, thats the average), you do not
have time to improve. However, here I can
take photos every month, sometimes every
week.
What advice would you give

to anyone else starting out in
photography?
It all depends on what the person wants to
do. My biggest rule to follow is: Practise!

Reading books about technique or chatting
on different forums does not have much
effect. However, taking out your camera
and shooting, thats when you can make
the difference.
For more information or
to purchase a copy, go to
rehahnphotographer.com
or facebook.com/Rehahn.
Photography
Photo by Diane Brisc
LEISURE
The Workings
of GingerWork
NYE at Madake. Photo credit: Viet Le Hoang
EVENTS
erhaps youve heard of

GingerWork the creative think
tank behind events like Dichotomy,
Carnival of the Dead or Wonderland.
You might have run into Mark Harris,
the distinctly ginger-haired founder,
socialising or networking around town. Or
maybe youve never heard of GingerWork.
Perhaps its time, since GingerWork is one
name to know in Hanoi right now.
A GingerWork production is not your
typical Friday night party. You may find
yourself transported into Wonderland
dressed as Alice and acting out a Mad Hatter
script or getting your face painted under
an enormous Dia de los Muertos skull while
fire dancers twirl nearby. By combining
the creative energy of its many members,
GingerWorks art-as-entertainment approach
often includes costumes, interactive
performances, theatre and original art
installations.
Born from a desire to achieve cohesiveness
between entertainment and the environment,
GingerWorks events centre around carefully
thought out themes. After creating a concept,

they work for up to a month both curating
the entertainment and re-designing the
event venues interior to bring the idea to
life. The approach, in part, comes from the
personalities of the members themselves.
I love the idea of looking at how spaces
and people interact, Jeremy Wellard,
a member of Gingerwork, says. As the
owner of co-working caf Commune,
his pre-disposition to collaboration is
understandable. For me, thats really what
its all about: getting the perfect balance of
all the different pieces to create something
holistic.
All in the Details

When it comes to re-imagining their venues
for the perfect event, the possibilities are
endless. In the past, they have turned Hanoi
Rock City into a morbid Carnival of the
Dead and Madake into an intergalactic
universe of twinkling stars and UV-planets.
This strong attention to decorative details
distinguishes GingerWork, but their
New (Event) Kids on the Block

GingerWork isnt the only new entity taking
Hanois social scene to the next level. These
event organisers are helping to grow Hanois
event calendar in big ways.
T he H anoi U rban F lea M arket
For Hanoi Urban Flea Market founder Alma

del Mundo, organizing events was entirely
accidental. She was inspired to start the
project after a successful Philippines charity
event in response to the typhoon. She posted
in the Facebook group Hanoi Massive
that she had extra clothes to donate, and
asked if anyone else would be interested in
contributing.
The feedback was so impressive. It just
blew up, she said. She originally planned
to hold a modest fundraiser at her home, but
9090| Word
| WordMarch
July 2013
2014
due to the enormous response, she needed

a bigger space. When Barbeque Garden
Westlake offered their venue, Alma was
launched into event planning. We collected
kilos and kilos of clothes. In total, we raised
US$2,000 (VND42 million), all of which went
to The Philippines.
After the fundraiser, Alma launched the
monthly Hanoi Urban Flea Market. Unlike a
typical flea market, her concept is not a place
to trade clothes or buy thrifty secondhand
goods. Almas flea market is distinctly urban
as she offers Vietnamese sellers many
of whom do not have a physical shop a
venue to display their goods and a chance
to network with the public. The 30 participants
at her January market included handmade
shops, vintage clothes and crafts.
success also comes down to their ability

to understand and adapt to the frequent
turnover of Hanois social landscape.
People are always arriving and departing
at different times. Friend groups merge in
some places, but dont overlap in others,
says founder Mark, drawing from his six
years of experience in Hanoi. With new
events and names cropping up every week,
he says, to be memorable, you really need
to have a brand and be consistent in what
you deliver.
A Future Built from the Past

Mark was inspired to create his own events
after helping Synergys Steve Sander with
the aesthetics for CyberKulture and Piknic
Electronik.
Steve and his partners pretty much
laid the foundation Gingerwork was built
upon, Jeremy says. He was instrumental
in starting to raise the bar for events here
and creating a real intersection between
entertainment and arts.
But for GingerWork in the future, the
T he H anoi U rban F lea M arket

Photo by Alina Shine
Know CAMA, Synergy, Link Hanoi and SubElements?

Remember Noi Zee? Now theres a new breed of event
promoters adding to the Hanoi fold. Words by Aimee Millwood
NYE at Madake. Photo credit: Viet Le Hoang
The barrier to entry is

low, so anyone can try.
[Some] foreigners have
more disposable income,
so it is easier for them to
try an idea out without
fear of failure. You can
put a few hundred dollars
into something, and if it
doesnt work, its not the
end of the day
team which includes designers and

architects Camille Jenny and Marine Billet,
resident artist Max Cooper, fire spinner,
ukulele player and installation master
Christophe Barthe and co-founder and
musician Lawrence James Kemp hopes to
expand beyond local parties and into larger
productions.
We are going to go forward, [we]
definitely arent just going to stay as we are,
Mark says. We are going to keep trying
new things because I think its important
to support the less obvious choices of
entertainment and art.
With the changes comes a bigger effort
to reach out to more Vietnamese people
by taking on staff to translate and promote
events, as well as offering cheaper tickets
for students. But Jeremy whose wife and
business partner is Vietnamese believes
simply attracting a mixed crowd of expats
and Vietnamese is not enough.
Our whole idea is about including local
voices not in a token way, but through
co-creation, says Jeremy. Were aiming to
precautions like security and checking fire

escapes, as well as keeping up communication
between artists, venues and event planners to
create a baseline for entertainment in Hanoi.
For GingerWork, collaboration is key to the
development of Hanois art, entertainment
and social community.
Its growing bigger every year, and we
as a community have the power to guide it,
Mark says.
GingerWork hopes to be a forum for
emerging creatives in Hanoi whether
its in the form of helping artists find
opportunities that fit their talents or
spreading their knowledge with aspiring
event planners. A core group of people forms
the collective, but the group encourages
open participation up to 20 people at a
time contribute to each of their productions.
Its all about building a stronger creative
community. This is what drives me day
to day, Jeremy says. The essence of
GingerWork is bringing people together to
build something stronger than they could do
on their own.
achieve actual engagement with the local

community, not just transients dropping in,
doing stuff and leaving.
Creativity, Community,
Collaboration
With Hanoi being a perfect city for expats
to launch creative projects, the founders
of GingerWork had the opportunity to get
something started. The barrier to entry is
low, so anyone can try, says Jeremy, adding,
[Some] foreigners have more disposable
income, so it is easier for them to try an idea
out without fear of failure. You can put a few
hundred dollars into something, and if it
doesnt work, its not the end of the day.
Like many other projects, GingerWork
sprouted out of this just-try-it-and-seewhat-happens mentality. However, as
they move from an experimental venture
into a professional production group, the
importance of working with Hanoi rather
than slipping through the cracks is becoming
paramount.
At their events, GingerWork members take
U nder
the
L an T ree
Under the Lan Tree is relatively fresh to Hanoi,

but their projects are already garnering
attention. Alina Shine only founded the project
last August, but she has already organised
a variety of events, including weekly movie
screenings at M adake and S on T inh L ounge
B ar , the Lose Your Face Halloween party at
21N orth and the Hanoi Designer Showcase
Night Market at H anoi R ock C ity .
Planning events is like owning a business,
Alina said. Your mind is constantly thinking.
Alinas mind works on diverse projects.
Along with event planning, she also teaches
childrens yoga classes, which combine
classic poses with imaginative games to
engage children while promoting English
practice, fitness and flexibility.
L an T ree
Photos by Urban Flea Market
U nder
the
Under the Lan Tree is currently holding a photo

exhibition at J oma on Tong Duy Tan, with 20
percent of the proceeds donated to charity
organisation SympaMeals.
LEISURE
horsing around
The Riding School

What better moment to establish Ngua Hanoi, the capitals
first horse riding school, than in the Year of the Horse?
Words by Elisabeth Rosen. Photos by David Harris
o until you hear yee ha!

From the shade of a
thatched roof, Ngoc Nguyen
watches her two sons ride
around the dusty enclosure. Clutching the
reins, they follow instructions called out in a
brisk British-accented clip.
This time you're going to come down
the middle and turn in front of me, calls
Louise, their teacher, her tone consistently
cheerful despite the bitter cold. Good! Keep
pushing!
There are a lot of things you can do in
the rapidly developing Vietnamese capital
that you couldnt 10 years ago, and you
can now add to that list riding horses.
Ngo Le Thang and Nguyen Thi Hoa Hop
opened the riding school at the beginning
of 2014 on their spacious property in Cau
Giay District, where the couple lives and
runs a traditional-style wooden restaurant.
Bringing unusual animals to Hanoi is a bit
of a family tradition: in the 1920s, Ngos
grandfather was the first person to open a
circus in then French-occupied Vietnam.
Hes very famous in Vietnam for training

animals, Hop says. Lions, elephants,
tigers...
The Family Business

The circus in Lenin Park is still the family
business. Ngo teaches acrobatics there, and
he grew up watching his mother perform
dramatic feats on horseback, from doing
handstands to playing the ty ba (a Chinese
four-chord lute). Hes wanted to open a
riding school for a long time, but it took
six years to find the horses there are 16
of them, brought in from Australia and
Germany and hire a medical expert to
look after them. We don't have vets for
horses in Vietnam, only cows and buffalo,
Hop explains.
After a broadcast on national television
channel VTC featured the riding school,
scores of curious families arrived, as well
as couples looking for a novel place to
take wedding photographs what more
auspicious location could there be in the Year
of the Horse?
This is the first time they saw a big horse

that wasnt on television, says Hop. In
Malaysia and Thailand, they know about
horses. Why not Vietnam?
Ngoc Nguyens sons, who started riding
at eight months old in Ho Chi Minh City
and continued riding as the family moved
between Africa and Asia, typify the new
generation of Vietnamese riders.
They have to ride every week, she says.
After she spotted Ngua Hanoi on the news,
the family drove an hour from their home in
Ciputra to check it out.
Theyre accompanied by Ngocs sister
Diem, who works for an e-commerce
company. At the age of 24, shes never
ridden a horse. Today, encouraged by her
sibling, Diem climbs into the saddle.
I felt a little scared, but it was fun, she
says afterwards. Ill probably come back.
Ngua Hanoi is at Ngo A36 Ho Tung Mau,
Cau Giay, Hanoi. A 45-minute riding lesson
costs VND450,000 and a 10-minute pony
ride is VND50,000. Call 0904 092827 or visit
nguahanoi.vn for more information
This is the first time they saw a big horse that

wasnt on television. In Malaysia and Thailand,
they know about horses. Why not Vietnam?
Food & drink

charity
Lunch for a Good Cause

Amid roadside offerings that sometimes dip below the VND10,000 level,
its something we occasionally take for granted not everyone can afford
a decent meal. Jennifer Graham searches the country for those
kind souls who are looking to do something about this.
ankind has known of the

connecting nature of food for
millennia. For thousands of years
we have held lavish banquets
in honour of our victories, and feasts
marking the most important dates on
our calendars. Food connects us to one
another, and in doing so it connects us
to moments of love, passion and joy. It
could even be said that food is love made
manifest.
Social enterprises and charities have used
this positive power of food to bring hope
and purpose to the lives of the impoverished
and marginalised in Vietnam. The success of
KOTO Know One, Teach One set up
in Hanoi 10 years ago to train disadvantaged
youth in cooking and hospitality skills, may
have influenced and paved the way for
smaller and lesser-known organisations to
adopt a similar model.
We have looked up and down the country
and have found a growing number of small
organisations that have food and love at the
centre of their operations. Here are some of
the most inspiring.
Ho Chi Minh City

Green Bamboo Warm Shelter Restaurant (GBWS)
40/34 Calmette, Q1
The GBWS is a project of the Ho
Chi Minh City Child Welfare
Foundation. The project provides
care, education, housing and
other daily assistance to street
boys aged eight to 16. The
restaurant was established
in April, 2013 by some of the
older boys living in the shelter,
who wanted to raise funds and
mentor the younger boys.
Each month the menu
changes, but the food is
generally in the style of com tam,
with chicken, pork, fish and beef.
There are also noodle dishes and
vegetarian options. One dish is
VND25,000, or the buffet
costs between VND50,000 and

VND150,000 per person.
After making your selection at
the buffet cart, sit down at one
of the metal tables to be waited
on by the enthusiastic and
caring young staff. When youve
finished eating the generous
portion set before you, have a
chat with one of the boys about
their experiences at the shelter
and in the process, give them
the opportunity to practise their
English with you.
All profits go to supporting
the boys who live in the shelter.
Open Monday to Saturday, from
11.30am till 1.30pm
Smile (Nu Cuoi)

6 Cong Quynh, Q1; 6/22 Nguyen Ngoc Nhut, Tan Phu;
298A Huynh Tan Phat, Q7; 132 Ben Van Don, Q4;
43B Trung Trac, Thu Duc. A Hanoi eatery is in the works.
tuthientinhthuong.org
There are six Smile Nu Cuoi
restaurants, five in Ho Chi Minh
City and soon one in Hanoi,
and all of them serve meals for
VND2,000 each to low-income
families, the elderly, disabled and
students in financial difficulties.
Smile was set up by the charity
Love Foundation Tu Thien
Tinh Thuong as a way to
promote kindness and sustain the
poor and needy. Nevertheless,
all are welcome; Smile doesnt
discriminate.
The simple dishes consist of
rice and meat, soup, stir-fry and
great taste and the welcoming

and comfortable atmosphere.
The public can contribute
financially to the running of Smile
in many ways. For example, there
are opportunities to purchase
paintings from local artists with
all funds going directly to the
restaurants. Smile restaurants are
all operated by volunteers.
Some Smile restaurants services
shift on a location-rotating basis,
however, all restaurants open from
11.15am till 12.45pm. For up-to-date
info, check Tu Thien Tinh Thuong on
Facebook
a dessert. Locals rave about the
SOZO Caf
176 Bui Vien, Q1
sozocentre.com
SOZO started life as a cart
from which a local woman
was given the opportunity to
sell cookies to the growing
number of tourists coming to
visit Ho Chi Minh City. Many
poor families saw the economic
benefits of this scheme and
wanted an opportunity to find
employment, which led to
SOZO opening their threestorey cafe in the centre of Bui
Vien.
Still serving their mainstay of
freshly baked American-style
cookies, SOZOs menu has
grown and now offers full
breakfasts, western and Asian

meals, smooth cappuccinos and
some of the best desserts in Ho
Chi Minh City regulars cant
get enough of their cheesecake
and cinnamon rolls.
Every customer is helping
physically challenged and
disadvantaged Vietnamese to
break the cycle of debt, work
their way out of poverty and
provide a hopeful future. All
profits go back into SOZO and
those they help.
Open seven days a week, from
7am till 10.30pm
Danang
Hanoi
Bread of Life
Hope Club
4 Dong Da, Hai Chau

breadoflifedanang.com
Hanoi University, 334 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan

tinhnguyenhope.net
As well as serving great

food, Bread of Life have been
equipping 16 to 26-year-olds
within the deaf community with
vocational training since 2005.
Depending on the needs of the
individual and the business,
trainees can then be offered
employment in the Bread of Life
restaurant. To date, there are
15 to 16 deaf staff; all baristas,
bakers and cooks are deaf, with
the longest-serving staff running
their own departments.
A popular restaurant for
Danangs expat community,
Bread of Life serves all
homemade western food with
a varied and flexible menu
while every dish uses only
fresh ingredients. The bountiful
selection of breakfasts comes
from around the western world;
Australian, American, basic
English and hearty English are
all firm favourites.
Whether you fill your boots
with a sloppy joe or slurp up
your spaghetti bolognese ask to
learn a few basic signs in order
to communicate with servers
and baristas. And being a few
minutes drive from Danang
Station, Bread of Life is a perfect
place to stop at before or after a
long train journey.
All tips are equally distributed
among staff, from the cleaner to
the supervisor, and all profits
are reinvested back into the
business.
Open Monday to Saturday, from
8.30am till 9.30pm
Their tagline is Taking Care

Giving Love Sharing
Happiness, and the organisers
of Hope Club hope to bring
sincere love and friendship to
those who are disadvantaged.
One of Hope Clubs most
successful initiatives sees them
serving vegetarian food to poor
students at Hanoi University.
Each portion contains rice,
stir-fried vegetables, spring rolls,
fried mock pork ribs or eggs,
and soup. Their expenses per
serving range from VND25,000
to VND30,000 however, each
student receiving a meal only
has to pay VND5,000. Students

are also provided information
about the health benefits of a
vegetarian diet.
The club is open to the
general public. People can
also contribute by purchasing
products made by club
members.
In the next phase, the project
will expand to more universities
in Hanoi, and there are also
plans to open a vegetarian
restaurant next June.
Hope Clubs food stands can
be found at the university every
Friday morning from 10.30am
Photos by Ngoc Anh Le
SympaMeals
duandongcam.net
In 2005, SympaMeals began
providing patients at the
National Cancer Institute of
Vietnam (K Hospital) with one
free meal a day by distributing
coupons worth VND15,000. The
coupons could be exchanged
for food such as rice, porridge,
noodles, soup or milk at
anytime in the hospitals
canteen.
SympaMeals have now
expanded to include many other
activities, such as providing
milk powder to outpatients.
In 2012 alone, 67,000 free meal

coupons and 2,000 tins of milk
powder were given to the
poverty-stricken patients of K
Hospital.
Volunteers assist staff in
distributing meal coupons and
milk powder, however it is
difficult to obtain permission
for foreigners to work in the
hospital as volunteers. The
public can help by spreading
the word and making donations
that go towards paying for
coupons.
Food & drink
MYSTERY DINER hanoi
Green Taste
A new eatery is trying to bring its own version of healthy,

home-cooked cuisine to Tay Ho. Our anonymous food writer
checks it out. Photos by Francis Roux
d like to say that I stumbled

across Green Taste while
driving up Dang Thai Mai, one
of the few streets in this part of
Tay Ho that still feels like a country
road, because this sounds way cooler
and more authentic than how I
actually discovered it, which was on
Facebook. However, in my defense,
all three tables in the small room,
decorated simply with bamboo
furniture and warm lighting, were
also full of expats. Perhaps like me
and the friend who accompanied
me, they were drawn to the
colourful, appetising photos that the
restaurant posted on its page.
The menu at Green Taste is a
creative melange of Italian (linguini),
Vietnamese (spring rolls), Malaysian
(char kway teow) and other assorted
cuisines, redone to be lighter and
ostensibly healthier. We started off with
fresh spring rolls (VND55,000), which
were indeed light: while traditional
spring rolls usually contain shrimp
and pork, there was nothing to these
morsels except for bun noodles, lettuce,
carrots and a sprinkle of crushed salted
sesame. They were reasonably tasty,
but the price felt a little steep for such
a dish, especially because one could
easily prepare it at home.
Getting it Right
This is a common feeling when
dining at Green Taste, where the food

still has the rough edges of home
cooking, although it also boasts the
home cooks sense of unrestrained
creativity. In your own kitchen, you
can feel free to invent what you want,
without following the limitations of
structured cuisine. At a restaurant,
this makes for a fun if occasionally
disappointing dining experience.
My stir-fried rice noodles with
beef and bok choy (VND135,000)
demonstrates both the pros and cons
of this approach. Served in a hefty
bowl, the dish includes an ample
rainbow of vegetables: leafy bok
choy, sliced mushroom, thin slivers of
carrot. Its the dish one might cook up
after taking a spin through a local wet
market. However, while it might be
healthier than, say, pad Thai, its also
blander: rather than a liquid sauce,
the noodles are flavoured with only a
few scattered sliced birds eye chillis
and fermented black beans. Slurping
them up, I couldnt help thinking a
bit longingly of how I could buy three
massive plates of pho xao swimming
in flavourful gravy for the same price.
If only the noodles had been
introduced to the pumpkin stirfried with garlic (VND50,000), a
delicious side dish that ended up
being the best part of the meal. You
cant really go wrong with the garlic
stir-fry technique; when pumpkin is
added, its an ideal winter dish, and

one that is healthy without being
flavourless. I also ended up stealing
bits of my friends teriyaki chicken
(VND125,000), another enjoyable
main in which tender dark meat was
simmered in a slightly sweet soybased sauce and served with simple
steamed rice and a bit of salad.
The only dessert offered on the
night we were there was creme
caramel (VND40,000), which was
decent but not spectacular, pretty
much the same thing youd find on
Hang Than or any other street stall.
The banana cinnamon yogurt drink
(VND50,000), however, was a nice
surprise. Thick, creamy and heavily
scented with cinnamon, it was far
better than your average lassi.
The small kitchen, run by an
Australian-Vietnamese couple, was
clearly overwhelmed by the three
tables. Every time one of them brought
a plate out, it was accompanied by a
strained, apologetic look. Perhaps the
menu is too sprawling. Narrowing the
selection down to the list of four daily
specials written on the chalkboard
might be a good idea until the kitchen
gets in stride. Its nice to have a lot
of options, but not at the expense of
flavour. The restaurant is called Green
Taste, after all.
Green Taste is at 18C Dang Thai Mai,
Tay Ho, and facebook.com/greentastevn
THE VERDICT
10
Food
12
Service
12
Dcor
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
street snacker hanoi
Banh Ran
Tiny but mighty, deep-fried but light, banh ran fried cakes
are among the most popular snacks available in the capital.
Word by Huyen Tran. Photos by Francis Roux
hile walking along Hang Dao

on our way to exploring the
city, my Scottish friend who
had been in Hanoi for only a
few weeks was overcome with curiosity
when she saw a few peddlers selling small
rice balls in their baskets.
Hey, I just saw some ladies with
baskets full of small ball-shaped cake in
different colours, she said. Some are
orange, some are white like snowballs, and
some others are brown. Are they all the
same?
In response, I bought her a few to taste.
Theyre deep-fried glutinous rice balls, or
fried cake in short, I explained. Theyre
called banh ran in the North and banh cam
in the South.
In general, there are two types of
Vietnamese banh ran sweet and salted,
I continued. The ones that the street
peddlers have are sweet, and they are
usually ball-shaped or flat. The salted
version is often oval. For both, the outer
shell is made from glutinous rice flour, but
for the filling, the sweet banh ran is made
from sweetened mung bean paste while
the salted type is made from a mixture of
minced pork meat and mushroom, and is
dipped into fish sauce.
Its commonly believed that the sweet
form of banh ran appeared earlier. People
in Vietnam say that the traditional banh ran
of Hanoi are actually banh ran luc lac, with

luc lac, meaning shaking. Traditionally,
the filling was made separate from the
shell so that when theyre shaken, you can
hear the filling rattle against the inside of
the shell. Yet, nowadays, few cooks can
make this shaking banh ran.
Tiny, but Mighty

But this doesnt mean that the other types
of banh ran are not as delicious as banh ran
luc lac. One eatery on O Quan Chuong is
famous for its banh ran, which is made
from simple ingredients. The shop is
consistently full of surprises, including the
tiny size of the banh ran sold there.
And the eatery itself is almost as small
as the tiny cakes it offers, with no signage
to mark it. Only a large, boiling frying
pan of banh ran seems to signal customers.
Yet, contrary to its size, the eatery sells
thousands of the cakes every day.
The high demand means that the
banh ran here is sold straight out of the
frying pan. The shop is well-known for
its carefully selected ingredients and the
glutinous rice, which creates a crispy outer
shell. The filling inside is soft, light and
sweet.
It has been so long since I began selling
banh ran on this small corner, says Ms.
Cuc, who has been purveying her trade
in this spot since the 1990s. The banh ran
remains unchanged, but life changes so

fast. [Customers] used to come here and
buy banh ran for takeaway. But now, we
deliver and even have name cards.
She says that although the preparation
method has changed, the taste that
Hanoians crave remains the same. People
still prefer eating small banh ran, since, she
says, the bigger it is, the fatter you feel.
Getting it Just Right

The secret of banh ran is in the glutinous
rice, continues Ms. Cuc. It has to be good
quality, for sure. But most important is the
ratio between glutinous rice and normal
rice. I have no formula or percentage it
is the sense of the experienced cook that
dictates the amounts of each type of rice
and how much water you use. [I know]
just by looking at it.
Many say that banh ran is best during
winter, since the cake will warm you up
without creating a thirst or a feeling of
fattiness. With the last days of winter
coming to a close, now is the time to
sample banh ran before the summer heat
sets in.
The eatery is located on O Quan Chuong,
at the intersection of O Quan Chuong, Hang
Dieu and Thanh Ha, between the bun oc and
cha ruoi shop. Banh ran is sold at VND1,000
per piece. When the eatery is too packed for
seating, they offer paper bags for takeaway
Food & drink
MYSTERY DINER HCMC
Caf If
THE VERDICT
Our undercover reporter heads to Caf If (Caf Neu) to sample

the cuisine, but gets caught in the act. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
f is a provocative word.
Its a word of conditionals,
of what could have been,
what is and what could be.
Its the title of Rudyard Kiplings
best-known poem, a poem of
determination that starts with the
lines, If you can keep your head
when all about you / Are losing theirs
and blaming it on you. Its a word
that promotes hope and regret,
and a word that in its short twoletter form says something about
the human condition that no other
word can do.
Its also the name of a restaurant
and caf on the outskirts of District
1, an Indochine-designed eatery
full of quirks and little beautifully
staged oddities. Which begs the
question. Why the name? Why
such provocation? Walk through
the leafy garden, past the Imperialinfluenced statues and motifs, the
plant pots constructed of broken
pieces of porcelain, through the art
deco-style floor tiling and you start
to understand. If things could only
have been different...
Art and Cuisine

Caf If has the past written and
designed all over it, romantically
so. Even the slow background jazz
and classical guitar solos scream
romance. Yet theres a fun element
to proceedings here. Take the art:
oils of a man getting lost in bottle

after empty bottle of wine; odd
images of rare wildlife; a lily and
a goldfish; lacquerware influenced
by the concepts of yin and yang; an
obsession with wine, good wine.
Ive eaten here twice, and my
last meal was nothing short of
sensational. There was a group of six
people dining over lunch. The New
World wine emerged, as did dishes
steamed on hot stones, traditional
Vietnamese-style salads, a range of
dishes cooked in fruit sauces and
the hot pot a fundamental of
any good Vietnamese restauranteaten meal. What was clear was
the quality of the ingredients all
well-sourced. And the prices. For a
place of such quirky yet highbrow
ilk, very reasonable.
This time round I came here alone
and tried to remain anonymous
I know the people in charge.
But having browsed the cleverly
organised menu there are literally
only 10 main courses here, but each
with vegetarian, meat or seafood
options I got caught in the act.
Which meant that I could not be the
mystery customer I had hoped. I still
managed to pay for my bill.
My two dishes were every bit as
good as the taste in my memory. The
hot stone grilled beef (VND138,000)
came served in a black pot with
the marinated beef and basil on the
side. Add the meat to the scorching

hot stones, put on the lid to let it
steam and after a couple of minutes
the dish is cooked a novel and
enticing way of doing meat or
seafood at the table. Dipped in a
spicy but sweet cilantro, green chilli,
lime and onion-based sauce, this was
a provocative, fiery-on-the-tastebuds kind of dish. Moreish, too. I
could have ordered it all over again.
The vegetable curry (VND98,000)
came to the table bubbling away,
served in a black claypot. Like
all typical Vietnamese curries,
it lacked spice. For a moment I
contemplated ordering some chilli,
but so packed full was this dish
with tofu, tomatoes, spring onions,
carrots and mushrooms that I felt
perhaps the chilli would do the
earth-red coloured sauce an injustice.
Spice needs to be added in at the
beginning, and although the kick
would have been nice, the dish just
didnt need it.
For all the charming little foibles
in its dcor, Caf If is a well-needed
alternative to the growing roster of
top-end Vietnamese restaurants in
District 1. Even better, theyve got a
real wine list, not one just cobbled
together for the sake of serving
wine. The foods something to talk
about, too!
Caf If is at 38 Dang Dung, Q1, or
online at cafeif.com
12
Food
10
Service
14
Dcor
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
MYSTERY DINER HCMC
27 Grill
THE VERDICT
13
Food
15
Service
13
Dcor
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
The restaurant above Chill Skybar is vying for a place among the top
steakhouses in Saigon. So, has it made the cut? Photos by Kyle Phanroy
hen Chill Skybar first

opened, the restaurant
was downstairs and
the bar was split over
two floors, taking up both the inside
space and the sensational, outdoor
terrace. Much has changed.
The restaurant has been moved
upstairs, to the 27th floor, and
rebranded its now called 27
Grill. The cuisine has undergone a
makeover the focus is now on
grilled meat and seafood, with a
particular emphasis on all things
steak. While the extensive wine
list mixing mid-range entry level
wines with pricey vintages remains,
the seating and tables have been
replaced. The white tablecloths are
gone. Instead its subtle lighting
and a more casual experience, with
yellows, maroons and browns
making up the visual aperture.
That this restaurant and bar has
been so open to transformation says
much for the owners. They dont rest
on their laurels. There is a culture of
improvement here, a desire and a
need to simply make things better.
And theyre prepared to spend money,
too, which bodes well for longevity.
Simplicity
When I first ate at 27 Grill it had just
opened. We were in a large group
and had a set menu. I went for
the steak, of course, and while my
memory of the night was hazy

there was too much wine involved
I remember enjoying the meal and
the general atmosphere.
This time round I once again
opted for steak there is a myriad
of choices and cuts here. From
Australian MSA Angus through
to US Choice and the dear but
beautifully tender and marbled
grade 4 to 5 wagyu. I chose the 250g
Australian ribeye (VND690,000).
The menu is nicely set up here
simple but effective. All starters
cost VND175,000, regardless of
ingredients, while the side dishes
weigh in at VND65,000 each,
irrespective of whether you opt for
fries and aioli, macaroni-and-cheese
or green asparagus. The desserts
follow the same concept, too, at
VND145,000 each. I was also greeted
by a three-course special set menu
going for VND1 million. Another
welcome but simple option to
choose from.
Straight-forwardness, it seems,
runs through to the cuisine, too. As an
entre I opted for the rocket salad with
sun-dried tomatoes and parmesan.
Tossed lightly in balsamic vinegar
and perhaps a touch of olive oil, this
is one of those oh-so-easy salads that
can be done badly. Here, thanks to the
freshness of the ingredients, it was
faultless. A nice support act for the star
of the show, the steak.
The steak was truly a superstar

perfectly rare, sealed with what
seemed to be either rock or sea
salt, and bursting with taste. But
the pepper sauce tasted slightly
overcooked. Was it my palate? I
wasnt sure. Was it the red wine? I also
wasnt sure. But I was determined not
to settle for second best.
This was a mere quibble on my
part. Fortunately the two waiting
staff dealt with the situation with
great aplomb a pleasure. This was
international standard service.
There are only a few steak
restaurants in this city that I would
recommend. This is one of them.
Grill 27 is on Floor 27 of the
AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, or on
chillsaigon.com
fashion
Photos: Francis Xavier
Styling: Vu Ha Kim Vy
Models: Danny Wilson, Chelsea Rose, Ilgmars Valts, Thuy Anh & Lewis Baker
Harley Davidson is at 800 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, HCMC
KTM is at C7/2 Pham Hung, Binh Chanh, HCMC
MotoWorld is at 95 Nguyen Van Cu, Q5, HCMC
THE
STYLE RIDERS
People talk about bikers as if theyre a breed, a different sort of person. Our
idea is that bikers are made, not born revolutionary, we know.
To test our hypothesis, we pitted two tatted-up roughriders against three of
our cleanest cut models, dressing them up in the same burly bike threads.
Can you tell the difference?
Plaid shirt: VND2.17 million | Denim shirt: VND2.03 million

Headwrap: VND630,000
All from Harley-Davidson
Jacket: VND2.55 million at MotoWorld
Jacket: VND14.39 million

Sunglasses: VND5 million
Jacket: VND3.85 million | Tank-top: VND960,000 | Necklace: VND1.85 million

Gloves: VND1.1 million | Helmet: VND2.78 million
Jackets: VND4.9 million for each | Off-road helmet: VND1.8 million

Che helmet: VND2.48 million
All from KTM
Womens jacket: VND3.4 million

Mens jacket: VND3.36 million
All from MotoWorld
travel
urban exploration
Dhaka by Bus
Jeff Gantner rides the city bus from his expat quarters in Bangladesh
to Old Dhaka, encountering some bumps along the way.
Photos by Jeff Gantner and Tina Cocej
ou took the what to where?

Thats what my wife said
when I told her I went to Old
Dhaka on the city bus.
A week earlier, Id met Matt, a transplant
from Ohio. Hed suggested for a truly
home-cooked Dhaka experience hopping
on the bus from my cushy expat hood,
Gulshan, to Sadarghat Boat Terminal in the
old part of town.
Why not? Id shrugged. Id been in
Bangladesh only a few weeks and was eager
to get a feel for my new home.
Today is Friday and, from what Id heard,
the best day to venture outdoors in Dhaka.
Its a day of prayer for many and the streets
are relatively peaceful the operative
word being relatively. Still, you need to pay
attention to avoid stepping into crater-sized
potholes or getting shoulder-checked by
speeding SUVs.
Avoiding Dhakastrophe
Matt, his roommate Tina and I walk between
a pair of sad, polluted lakes and through a
maze of narrow, muddy lanes behind my
house to chaotic Pragati Sharani Street. If
youre going to get steamrolled in Dhaka,
this is where it could happen.
Buses, cars and thousands of handpainted bicycle rickshaws battle for limited
pavement. Add the clamour of perpetual air
horns and ad hoc pedestrian crosswalks and
youve got a precarious recipe for a potential
dhakastrophe.
We need to cross Pragati Sharani to catch

our bus. Matt takes the lead, sprints to the
strip in the centre. Tina goes next. I lag a
bit, owing to my habit of expecting traffic
to swerve and flow around me, as it did in
Vietnam. Not going to happen here. I feel
as if Ive got a bullseye painted on my shirt
and Dhakas drivers are keen archers driving
arrows
Buses dont come to a complete stop,
but rather slowly troll the roadside as
passengers impatiently jump on and off.
Timing is crucial when boarding. You have
to judge whether theres enough space
before committing to flinging yourself onto
the steps, desperately lunging for the grab
rail. We commit. The fare collector grips my
forearm and pulls me in.
Safe Passage
I inch my way to the rear where theres an
empty window seat. The coils have long
burst through the Naugahyde covering. A
rope is knotted around the seat frame and
riveted to the floor, providing some measure
of safety if the driver slams on the brakes.
The seat in front is crippled. Its tilted
almost all the way back, like a La-Z-Boy
recliner. Its frame isnt bolted to the floor
and theres no rope holding it down. Only
the weight of the passengers keeps it static.
My knees are pushed against my thorax.
I look like a praying mantis in a hat and
sunglasses. Matt grins.
Ive been on worse buses, I offer
stoically, if not truthfully.

Like the city itself, Dhakas rolling rust
buckets are bursting at the seams with
bodies. Bus travel accounts for nearly
half of all city commutes, a statistic easy
to believe when I look out of my window
and see overcrowded double-deckers
rumbling down the road and swarms of
roadside passengers denied carriage due to
overcrowding.
According to Bangladesh Road Transport
Authority (BRTA), there are almost five
dozen numbered routes and 26 private bus
companies operating in the city. Buses are
painted with route names and numbers
in Bangla, bad news for riders who only
understand English.
For these determined (and possibly nave)
travelers, catching the right bus depends on
a combination of having a translator app (at
least for numbers), a friend like Matt (who
speaks fluent Bangla), and a little help from
a bilingual local. Perhaps best of all would
be to source one of those limited-edition
colour bus route maps that US-based Urban
Launchpad (urbanlaunchpad.org) and local
advocates Kewkradong (kewkradong.com)
recently distributed. These two groups have
taken on the mammoth task of charting
Dhakas public transit jumble.
White foreigners on a Dhaka bus are
something of a rarity, it seems. Locals
stare not because theyre rude. Theyre
incredulous. Curious. This is what I
keep telling myself. One unsheathes his
I feel as if Ive got a bullseye painted on my shirt

and Dhakas drivers are keen archers driving arrows
camera to capture me as evidence. Another

purposefully moves close and watches my
phone as I fuss with Google Maps. Privacy,
like taking the subway, isnt an option in
Dhaka.
On the pavement its survival of the most
aggressive. Our bus is near the top of the
food chain, up there with the cement trucks.
Three-wheeled micro taxis called CNGs
they run on compressed natural gas
shimmy and drift across the road, oblivious
to the whimsical flow of larger, deadlier
vehicles. Eco-friendlier cousins of the tuktuk, CNGs are kitted with steel window
screens to prevent muggings. If a CNG were
to get headbutted by a cement truck and
flip, youd be trapped inside. The good news
is that bag snatchers would be kept at bay
while you waited for the Jaws of Life to
arrive from overseas.
A man across the aisle yells something
in my direction, pointing to my window.
Matt says that he says that I should keep my
camera inside the bus. Most snatch-and-grabs
occur at stoplights, and there are plenty of
those. On second thought those stops arent
lights, just the lurch and lull of the brutal

traffic. Are we there yet?
Black-Water Rafting
Sadarghat Boat Terminal is the starting
point for river travel to many corners of
Bangladesh. In a country of 700-plus rivers
it makes sense to go by water. Plus, riverine
traffic jams are far more scenic and easier on
the lungs than those in Dhaka.
It costs BDT4 (about VND1,000) to enter
the terminal. A minimal number of children
attempt to hold my hand as we hopscotch
between iron moorings, sharp concrete slabs,
boisterous ticket hawkers, and thousands of
scurrying passengers. Not a soul asks me for
money not even the kids unlike in my
expat neighbourhood.
Though there is plenty of life here at the
waterfront, there is little beauty. Its not the
sort of place to grab a coffee and a bench (if
you can find one) and idly watch the multilevel launches (motorised ferries) come and
go while you toss your cares to the wind and
sunflower seeds to the birds. That said, if
youve got a decent SLR camera youll find
an abundance of unique faces and colours.

From out of nowhere a man with a thick,
saffron beard approaches and asks me,
What is your country?
China, duh, is the only thing that comes
to mind. He laughs and trails off. No one
can say that Bangladeshis dont have a sense
of humour amazing really, given the
perpetual stream of downers that include
factory crumblings, jaw-dropping poverty
and waves of political protests.
We get the go-ahead to summit one of
the moored launches to take pictures. Its a
wide-open view across the Buriganga River
to the communities of Kathuria, Kaliganj
and Char Mirre. From the action on the
water below (despite this being a Friday),
you really get a sense of how scarily busy
Sadarghat can be.
A crowded ferry from the southern beach
town of Kuakata quickly approaches port.
Like minnows darting from a footstep, small,
wooden sampans clear the ferrys path.
The Delights of Old Dhaka

Sadarghat is located in Old Dhaka, which
We hit up a guy dishing out jhal muri, a tasty local treat of puffed
rice coated with mustard oil, chilli powder and dried coriander leaves.
Everything about this guys operation is homegrown, down to the
paper sleeves made with old test papers from a nearby university.
Nazir got 82 percent, incidentally
in the early 17th century was the capital of
Mughal-ruled Bengal. Over time the city
flourished as an administrative centre and
trading port, specialising in exporting fine
muslin cloth to Europe. Its fortunes shifted
over the next 150 years, but today remnants
from Old Dhakas glory days can still be
seen in the nearby Hindu bazaars Tanti and
Shakhari, famous for their skilled craftsmen.
Matt is determined to help me build an
iron gut by making sure I eat some street
food. Banana trucks line the roadside and
men in lungis (sort of tropical skirts) pitch
heavy bundles of the green fruit down to a
human relay chain for storage at riverfront
warehouses. They wont sell me a single
banana, however. Wholesalers. Matt says
bananas dont really count as street food
anyway. Theyve got natural wrappers.
Farther on we hit up a guy dishing out jhal
muri, a tasty local treat of puffed rice coated
with mustard oil, chilli powder and dried
coriander leaves.
Everything about this guys operation
is homegrown, down to the paper sleeves
made with I kid you not old test
papers from a nearby university. Nazir got
82 percent, incidentally. And who needs a
plastic spoon when youve got a paperboard
shovel (probably made from a Rice Krispies
box top)?
There are no worries about finding a
non-existent trash bin. Just pitch everything
on the ground (its all paper) and Mother
Nature and her magical process of
biodegradation will take over.
A tall man wearing a white kufi (skull
cap) is scraping the translucent flesh from
aloe vera plants to make juice, which hes
selling at BDT15 (about VND4,000) a go.
We approach and a friendly crowd of locals
gathers round.
Making aloe vera juice isnt as easy
as setting up a Kool-Aid stand. Theres
no powder mix, for one thing. Its a
time consuming ballet, about as visually
appetising as watching oyster shucking,
slobber and goop flying everywhere. The
end product, purportedly a cure-all, doesnt
quite beat a glass of wheat grass in the looks
department.
Nonetheless Matt and Tina shell out for
a cup. What theyre drinking looks like
ectoplasm, a viscous concoction a healing

ointment that belongs on skinned knees, not
inside stomachs. Still, I cant resist and take
a sip from Tinas cup. Tastes like a roll of
Scotch tape, which is to say not necessarily
repulsive. But its no mango smoothie.
Our Unexpected Destination

Islamapur Road, one of the most famous
in Old Dhaka, winds its way up from
the river to the transport terminus where
wed jumped off the bus hours ago. This
is the street to visit when you need bed
sheets, curtains, textiles, aromatic incense,
cigarettes, Hindu icons or a 100 percent
natural loofah.
Matt chats in Banglish to a young man
whos running a micro mini-mart, the size
of which might just fit inside a Japanese
pod-hotel room. Next door is a long mouse
hole of a passage, bathed in chiaroscuro,
which in my mind leads to a golden fountain
something out of Hollywood fantasy. In fact,
were told, it leads to apartments.
With a smile and a warm heart were
invited in.
For BDT2,000 (VND550,000) a month, you
can rent a room. Digs are, how shall I put
it cave chic?
The winding concrete staircase is straight
out of a medieval watchtower. You cook
in the dark, using your gas burners flame
as a light source. How you shower and
take care of other personal matters isnt
made clear. The only significant sunshine
is on the rooftop, where one of the tenants
keeps a flock of pigeons in an immaculately
organised cage.
The young man and several other
spelunkers join us on the roof, politely
asking questions, smiling, staring and taking
our pictures (by now standard procedure),
curious as to why weve come inside.
What can I tell them? I guess the truth is
sometimes its good to say yes. Sometimes it
pays to indulge curiosity.
Tina says shes going to move in to the
Yoda complex soon. Shes tired of paying
more than BDT2,000 a month in the expatbubble zones.
The booming sound of the azan (Muslim
call to prayer) echoes off the concrete
buildings. The freed pigeons dip and swirl
in an orchestral fluttering of feathers in the

dusky sky as we descend to the street.
Crawl Hour
Im heading home inside another jampacked bus. Everything on wheels is
jockeying for position. It seems everyone
is going to the same place at the same time
on the same damn roads. The incessant and
irritating cacophony of horns isnt helping
anybody get anywhere faster. Perhaps only a
subway or BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) system,
along with an en masse exchange of cars for
bikes could do that.
It takes two hours to travel the eight or
so kilometres back to Gulshan. If my maths
were better Id say thats about an hour-anda-half too long.
Theres little comfort knowing that even
if Id travelled the modest length of Dhaka
by stretch limo, pimped Honda or fullsuspension mountain bike I wouldnt have
moved any quicker.
But I surely wouldve got a better seat, one
without a sprung coil sticking out of it.
Information
For general information about the
Bangladeshi capital, Wikitravel have a
fairly comprehensive travel guide to the
city wikitravel.org/en/dhaka
G etting
to
D haka
You can fly to Dhaka with Biman

Bangladesh (biman-airlines.com) from
Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.
Alternatively, you can travel with
Singapore Airlines (flights from Singapore
singaporeair.com), Malaysia
Airlines (flights from Kuala Lumpur
malaysiaairlines.com) and Thai Airways
(flights from Bangkok thaiairways.
com). Alternatively you can take a train
from Kolkata in neighbouring India.
The line was reopened in 2008 and the
journey takes around 11 hours.
A ccommodation
The likes of Trip Advisor (tripadvisor.

com) and Agoda (agoda.com) have
information on hotel and guesthouse
bookings in Dhaka.
travel
Photo by Phillip Island Nature Parks
Nature
Penguins, Seals
and an Echidna
If youre travelling to Melbourne, then theres
one excursion not to be missed Phillip Island.
Just two hours south of the capital of Victoria,
here you will find abundant wildlife in its
natural environment. And dont forget
the penguins. Words by Katie Jacobs
penguin as it is more commonly known as in

Australia.
Phillip Island is one of Australias biggest
tourist draws and every year over one
million visitors come to watch these tiny
creatures make their nightly march from the
ocean to their burrows in the sand dunes.
Despite visiting Phillip Island numerous
times, I was yet to see the penguin parade
and this was going to be the trip where
I would finally see what all the fuss was
about. But first there were a few other things
to check off my holiday list.
Photos by Katie Jacobs
n a recent balmy evening, I

watched in awe as thousands
of shearwater birds engulfed
the coastal cliffs on which I was
standing and dove awkwardly into their
nests below the dense shrub.
As the sun sank into Bass Strait and the
clear skies swelled with the rolling fog of
birds, the strangely echoing sounds of the
nesting young could be heard calling to the
audible whooshing of thousands of beating
wings above.
It had been a few years since my last
visit to Phillip Island and this nightly
spectacle was even more astounding than
I remembered. In the week leading up to
Christmas I spent a few days visiting my
oldest friend on this charming island, which
juts out into Western Port Bay less than two
hours south of Melbourne. The island, which
is accessible from the mainland by bridge,
is an eclectic mix of suburban housing
developments, rolling farmland and distinct
small town feel.
During summer months, international and
domestic tourists flock, like shearwaters to
a cliff, for traditional beach holidays and to
glimpse some of Australias classic wildlife;
most famously the little penguin, or fairy
Holiday Towns and Beaches

The main street of Cowes, the largest town
on the island, is everything you expect in a
touristy seaside town. Small boutiques sell
tasteful homewares and the type of light
floral dresses usually bought on impulse
and never worn again; tacky souvenir stores
overflow with stuffed kangaroos and blow
up beach toys; and sidewalk cafes, small
restaurants and the customary ice cream
shops are all there to ensure that holiday
makers are well fed. One silly shoe purchase,
a sticky mint chococolate chip cone, and a
walk on the jetty later, and I was definitely in
holiday mode. The famously temperamental
Photo by Katie Jacobs
The wildlife sightings were incredible it was like nature had

rallied together and come out in full force to welcome us. And we
hadnt even been to the penguin parade
weather of coastal Victoria was behaving
and it was hard to feel anything but relaxed
when surrounded by brilliant sunshine,
sparkling water and sandy beaches.
The temperature the next day soared to
40 degrees and with nothing else to do but
enjoy the weather, we happily headed down
to one of Phillip Islands many beaches to
soak up the sun and splash in the chilly bay
water.
San Remo, a small town that sits next to
the bridge between the island and mainland,
has always been a popular place for pelican
feeding and jetty jumping. As I watched the
screaming kids dive into the water I was
reminded (not too fondly) of when, while on
teenage visits with my best friends family,
we would do the same. In order to avoid
being called a wuss my best friends
threat I would leap off the wooden
platforms and into the clear water, eyes
pressed tightly closed and desperately trying
to keep my bikini top in place. Below we
could see stingrays circling lazily in the sea.
These days everyone knows Im a bit of
a wimp, so I chose instead to float quietly
in the shallows, avoiding any stingray
sightings.
Fish, Chips, Wine and Wildlife

Dusting off the sand we headed off to
enjoy a Phillip Island pastime we never
experienced as kids, sipping cool crisp
Sauvignon Blanc at the Purple Hen Winery,
one of the Islands two local wine producers.
Named for the local swamp hen that inhabits
the island, the winery overlooks Western
Port Bay and the surrounding farmland.
Looking out over the vines and watching the
afternoon sun drift across the sky, we let the

heat wash over us before continuing onto the
evening activities.
Stopping off at the Rhyll foreshore,
another of the Islands small towns, we
indulged in some of the freshest fish and
chips in memory before continuing on to
The Nobbies. Located on the western tip of
the Island, this is the best spot for viewing
the large seal colony which spends its days
sunbathing on the rocky outcrops. Following
the viewing platforms across the grassy
knolls that run into the ocean, we were
afforded a spectacular vista of the Phillip
Island coastline.
Walking down to nearby Flynns beach,
one of the many expansive strips of white
sand that border the island, we came across
an echidna, a small spiky marsupial, slowly
burrowing her way into the sand bank.
With a feeling of privilege to have seen this
notoriously shy creature, we were both
bowled over when this was followed by
fifteen minutes watching a seal play in the
calm bay water. That evening it was easy
to see why Phillip Island has a reputation
for wildlife. In the past 24 hours we had
seen Shearwater birds, wallabies, native
hens, pelicans, seals, an echidna and signs
cautioning against snakes. The wildlife
sightings were incredible it was like
nature had rallied together and come out
in full force to welcome us. And we hadnt
even been to the penguin parade.
The Penguins
Later that evening we sat out on cement
platforms, excitedly watching as the
penguins surfed in on the waves and slowly
made their way up the beach. The crowd

buzzed as the first small group waddled
up the sand, heads bent forward and little
legs moving quickly. It was impossible not
to be charmed by these 30cm-tall creatures
marching towards us, stopping regularly
to rest before starting off again with a little
hop. Standing on the path in the dunes,
the juveniles, who were nearly as big (or in
this case small) as the adults, could be seen
waiting anxiously for their parents return.
Like the shearwaters, the penguins spend
their days fishing at sea before returning to
their burrows under the scrub where they
are mauled by their hungry and impatient
young.
The next morning I got up for a prebreakfast walk. Still feeling elated from the
previous evenings penguin sightings, I
was surprised to run into a fat seal sunning
himself on the boat ramp by the beach.
He seemed to flap his tail and twitch his
whiskers in greeting before returning to his
nap. When I excitedly told my friend later
she shrugged her shoulders. Just another
average morning on Phillip Island.
Information
Phillip Island is an easy two hour
drive from the centre of Melbourne.
Although there are regular public
buses from Melbourne to Cowes,
you will need a car once you are on
the Island. For more information on
accommodation and activities go to
visitphillipisland.com

Photo by Phillip Island Nature Parks
travel
Road Trip
The Bikers Guide

to the North Thai
Switchback Mountains
Ed Weinberg aka Miami Twice hits Thailands highest mountain range
alongside his six fellow Ratpackers, in custom-tailored suits,
with a Dean Martinesque glint in their eyes
t was two weeks before our Tet holiday

trip that we started our planning.
Not route planning or hotel booking,
no, nothing as inconsequential. We
had started on the real work getting
incredibly flashy suits custom-tailored in
Vietnam.
Over those weeks of scouring the markets
for fabric, jointly attending hilarious fittings
and weirdly asking the still-in-Cali female
member of our troupe her measurements,
we began to evolve an identity for our travel,
or at least some jokes.
We were preparing a Tet holiday trip to
end all Tet holiday trips, an epic two-week
motorbike run through the 600km Mae
Hong Son Loop. And we planned to wear
these suits the whole time, in a show of unity
or whatever. Flying into Chiang Mai on Jan.
26, on two hours of post-Singapore sleep, we
encountered our first speed bump.
Chiang Mai
KM
0
We loved Chiang Mai too much. It

was a problem.
While waiting for the rest
of our party to arrive / get suits
made, we adopted a nocturnal
schedule. Daytimes by the Eco Resort

Chiang Mai (109 Bumrungrad Road,
Tombon Watkate) pool, nights spent at a
variety of places and then inevitably
into the funnel of regret that is late-night
party spot Soi 5, a cluster of bars revolving
around the generic boom-chik-boom vibe
of partyplex Zoe in Yellow (Rajvithi Road).
This was a bro-and-floozy nexus the likes of
which Phuc Tan and Apo can only aspire to.
Over four days and nights, we also
managed to discover some sweet
hyperculture in this picturesque walled city.
During incredible jam sessions at North
Gate Jazz Co-op (95/1-2 Prapokklao Road),
people escaped to the fragment of 14th
century wall lining the moat on the north
side of the old city. Thais and expats jammed
along to the driving backbeat, and I was
blown away by the thought that this town
of 170,000 has a healthier scene at least in
this one specific discipline than anywhere
else Ive been in Southeast Asia.
On the hip side of town, centring around
university-proximate Nimmanhaemin Road,
locals licked ice cream in the shadow of the
absurdist 10-metre-tall nightmare creature
at iBerry (Nimmanhaemin Road Soi 17,
follow the signs). I was offered a sniff at my

pre-brewed grounds in the chalk-and-wood
environs of speciality coffee crafters Ristr8to
(15/3 Nimmanhemin Road), and found
myself seconding internet coffee commenters
in saying theirs was some of the best coffee
Id tasted, at least until I ran into fierce
opposition on behalf of Ponganes Espresso
(127/1 Soi 5, Moon Muang Road) and Akha
Ama (9/1 Mata Apartment, Hassadhisawee
Road, Soi 3).
We took the suits to Art in Paradise
(199/9 Changklan Road), a museum of
trick paintings packed with the photo-ops
non-touristy tourists such as ourselves
love or perhaps this is an attempt at the
unpinnable logic of so bad its good. We hit
up TripAdvisor champs Lemongrass (Loi
Kroh Road, Chang Khlan) several times,
choking on the spice in their exquisite Thai
offerings, and made a lunchtime habit of
visiting our sponsors people in suits get
sponsors, apparently at Free Bird Caf
(Manee Nopparat Rd, Si Phum) for inventive
western breakfasts and delicate Burmese and
Thai lunches, all vegetarian. Upstairs they
run a school for Burmese refugees in Chiang
Mai we thought they were so cool we
wished we could sponsor them.

We loved the 24th-ranked TripAdvisor
Travelers Choice Best Destination in
the World so much we found it hard to
leave until one day we did. Riding on
THB180 to THB450-a-day (VND120,000 to
VND290,000) rented bikes, we headed out to
the mountains.
Pai
We headed out to Pai late in the
day, after spending the default
three hours getting our party
of seven sorted for motorbikes,
KM
bathroom breaks, books, gas,
129
lunch, directions, bungee cords,
the one-guy-delaying-departure-because-hedoesnt-feel-well and all the other little hangups that come with such an enterprise.
We left an hour before sunset, sometime
around 5ish. This is never a good idea. As
dusk turned to tree-shrouded dark, group
member Gare-Bear the man in the
snakeskin suit found the lights on his
Vespa-esque Yamaha Fino flickering, its
115cc engine block concentrated on climbing
hills. We rearranged our convoy to light his
path, gave him a headlamp and shuffled
around the one passenger in our group
Chang, the lass in the pyjama-esque
elephant pattern whod been sitting on
the back of his bike.
By the time we made it to Pai, bonfires
were already blazing. At 486m elevation,
dwarfed by surrounding mountains, Pais
chill had gotten to us on the way there.
Clothed in our winteriest wear we ventured
out, consuming alcohol only for its bloodwarming effects (disclaimer: there are none).
In its bars and street stalls we found another
place we would stay in too long.
As we awaited our seventh member
Key Lime, in the late-period Monetinspired threads we found new favourite
brunch spots in Boomelicious (Soi One
Corner Plaza) and Good Life in Pai (just
next door). We hit some hot springs, photoopd on the edge of canyons, went to a
reggae on the river festival. In this town
of 2,200 year round residents, we found
more commercially brewed kombucha
fermented, sweetened black tea than lurks
in all of Vietnam. And, for a while, it was
enough.
Our third night was our first as a reunited
crew, and also the eve of election day in a
tense nation. After 6pm, beer became hard
to find. One bar tried to serve us milk. And
we wandered the town, up to the brightest
campfire we could find, and the same beers
that greeted us that first night were there.
And the same crowd.
One guy asked, You guys still wearing
those suits?
Fresh off his fever, a 250cc rental to his
name, Key Lime was anxious to get moving.
As we tried to ingratiate ourselves to certain
members of the backpacker crowd, he sat
there frowning. When we asked what was
wrong, he said, Ive been on lads vacations
before, but I thought this was going to be a
All through our travel, people had asked us

why we wore the suits and we said things like,
We like looking good or Why arent you?
The truth of it is we didnt know quite
why we were doing this
Swimming off the river bank, darting into the sharp current
while the local kid whod joined up with us did backflips into the water,
I felt that moment the one which puts you completely and utterly
in a place, with no past or future, no outside context
motorcycle trip.
And just like that we pulled out of town,
onto the next place.
Mae Hong Son

We got out late again, but with
sunlight to spare. We fed our
momentum curves at 90km/h,
glances off mountain ridges we
KM
were switchbacking through.
236
We pulled into Mae Hong Son
at twilight and promptly checked out the
lovely central lake, the reflection of temple
and mountains within. We found election
day beer and a deadly feast at a local
restaurant. We did not find a location to
watch the Super Bowl the following day.
The next morning, we packed our bikes
and said goodbye to this dusty little town
we would never see again.
Up Microwave Mountain
I saw a sign for Microwave
Mountain and followed it. It
took me up 30-percent grades
at my Finos max at such an
KM
angle 20km/h, with lots of
250
chuk-chuking. Courtesy honk
signs marked switchbacks so sharp I
already feared the way down. Here the
road changed, from the western standard
blacktop of the highway to a splintering
unlined grey, with traction-supplementing
grooves dug in at turns. A truck took over
the one lane we shared, on its way down the
mountain I put my left foot off the side of
the road and waited for it to pass.
At the top I found an isolated village.

I saw school-aged children, but heard no
shrieking hellos. No roadside stalls catered
to my thirst. People shied from my camera,
and I felt like an intruder. I headed down the
mountain the way Id come.
Mae Sariang
Later than all the others I arrived
in Mae Sariang, population 10,000,
lying in a mountain valley next
to a muddy river. Id broken from
KM
the main route, only to reunite in
404
another small town, at another bar,
across from another amused but forgettable
crowd. The boys in the suits took over the
open mic, we posed for some more pictures
and it seemed somewhat anticlimactic to
think our trip was coming to its end.
Mae Sam Laep

(The End of the Rainbow)
On our last day before heading
back to Chiang Mai, we decided
to take a river longboat ride on the
KM
same Salween River our delicious
452
fish dinners had been coming from
(the night before, Salween fish in tamarind
sauce). It wasnt the muddy stretch next to
the town where wed spent the night but
rather one 48km away, right on the Burmese
border.
Some 15km along, passenger Chang and
I found ourselves separated, hitting a patch
of rough that the overtaxed cruiser had
difficulty on. That patch of rough turned out
to be 30km of it, all of our remaining route
over broken-up asphalt and gravel-strewn

earth. We began to think of the road back,
and why none of our comrades who wed
mistakenly left behind at a forgotten gas
station rendezvous had passed us yet.
After two hours we arrived in perfect
late afternoon light. It had been a difficult
journey, but we werent thinking about that
now, in the slow soothing atmosphere of this
end-of-the-road town.
Mid-kow pat gai one of the spiciest
dishes wed yet encountered on the loop
45 minutes later, the rest of our party
arrived, tired and shaken from the road
down and a wrong turn taken. The trip
hadnt left them with the feeling of new
experience wed been feeling turning our
heads at woman painted in Burmese thanaka
face paint, men clothed in skirt-like longyis
they felt only the encroaching dark and
the difficult way back. Avoiding nightfall
would mean no river ride, no sunset. It
seemed an unbearable tease.
This is one of the limits of a big group,
finding compromise between the needs and
wants of everyone. Its a tradeoff with your
own needs and wants, and you have to
know when its not worth it anymore.
I didnt want to leave, and Key Lime
said hed like to stay as well. Resident
unpredictable Bumblebee with the only
Chiang Mai-crafted suit in our lineup, an
orange jacket-and-shorts combo decided
hed like to stay for the longboat, then beat it
back before nightfall.
In the unfailing luck of meant-to-be
moments, we ran into Rufus (Tel: +66 877
872392), a Burmese refugee whod lived the

40 years of his exodus in this border town,
speaking only Burmese and the English of
his student days. He took us under his wing
first arranging a late-in-the-day longboat,
then inviting us to stay with him when he
couldnt arrange another guest house.
And we went out on that river, a short
swim from the Burmese border, filled with
the kind of wonder we werent sure we
had in us anymore. Swimming off the river
bank, darting into the sharp current while
the local kid whod joined up with us did

backflips into the water, I felt that moment
the one which puts you completely and
utterly in a place, with no past or future,
no outside context. In that moment I knew
the life I might have had in that river town.
It expanded my perspective in unexpected
ways, and all that night and in the days
following I felt the effects of this sharp inhale
of a different world.
All through our travel, people had asked
us why we wore the suits and we said things
like, We like looking good or Why arent

you? The truth of it is we didnt know quite
why we were doing this.
In that moment, it all made sense. We
were trying to catch lightning the energy
thats all around you when you travel, in
passing sights and strangers. We wanted to
take this energy and focus it around us, give
it something to react to.
But lightning isnt something you catch.
Its something you watch for a second,
before it fades back into the night.
travel
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Dalat
ANA MANDARA VILLAS
$$$$
Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063)
3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE
$$$$
12 Tran Phu, Dalat, Tel: (063)
382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY
$$$
Tel: 0933 446542
bhayacruises.com
Experience breathtaking
tours of the serene Halong
Bay, aboard reproduction
wooden junks. Two or three
night trips with a wide range
of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.
CUC PHUONG
$
Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh
Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006
cucphuongtourism.com
Dalat Green City Hotel

172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
Located in central Dalat,
this is the perfect place for
budget travellers. Quiet,
newly refurbished with
beautiful mountain and city
views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and
snack bar in all rooms with
a downstairs coffee shop
and computers in the lobby
for guest use.
EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES,

HALONG BAY
$$$$
Tel: (04) 3935 1888
emeraude-cruises.com
Reproductions, of 19th
century paddle steamers,
trawl around Halong Bay
in colonial style. A classic
experience, complete with,
overnight accommodations
in impeccable cabins suites.
LA FERME DU COLVERT
$$
Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh,
Tel: (0218) 385622
etoile-des-mers.com
LA VIE VU LINH
$
Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen
Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743
lavievulinh.com
Dalat Train Villa

Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 381 6365
dalattrainvilla.com
Located near the Dalat Train
Station, the Dalat Train Villa
is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.
In its grounds is a 1910
train carriage which has
been renovated into a bar
and cafe. Located within 10
minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.
MAI CHAU LODGE
$$$
Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh,
Tel: (0218) 386 8959
maichaulodge.com
NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY
$$
Ha Long Road, Bai Chay
Ward, Ha Long City, Quang
Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108
novotelhalong.com.vn
TRUNG CANG HOTEL
$
4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 2663
Around Hanoi
BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER
HOTEL
$$$
KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong
Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031)
388 0888
pearlriverhotel.vn
Tam Coc Garden Resort

Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu,
Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249
2118
contact@tamcocgarden.
com
tamcocgarden.com
Surrounded by rice fields
and spectacular karsts,
Tam Coc Garden is a haven
of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury.
Spacious rooms with rustic
and chic dcor, a pool with
breathtaking views, a beau-
tiful garden, and panoramic

views over the fields and
mountains. The perfect place
to relax.
Hanoi - International
CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL
$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 6270 6688
crowneplazawesthanoi.com
This premier five-star
property lies beside the My
Dinh National Stadium and
Convention Centre. Boasts
two swimming pools, a spa,
and a fitness centre in its 24
stories.
DAEWOO HOTEL
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3831 5555
www.hanoi-daewoohotel.
com
This enormous structure
offers the most modern of
amenities, and with four
restaurants and two bars,
the events staff is well
equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National
Convention Center, and a
favourite of the business
traveller, Daewoo even
boasts an outdoor driving
range. Shortly to become a
Marriot property.
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI

6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3831 3333
www.fortuna.vn
This 350-room four-star set
up in the heart of Hanois financial district has a variety
of rooms on offer, a capital
lounge and three restaurants that serve Japanese,
Chinese and international
cuisine. And like youd expect, theres a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a
separate spa and treatment
facility for men and women.
Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business
deals on rooms and spaces
to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.
HOTEL DE LOPERA
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
Resting just a step away
from the Opera House, the
hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.
The first boutique five star
in the heart of Hanoi, the

lavish, uniquely designed
107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and
are complimented by two
restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI
WESTLAKE
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6270 8888
www.hanoi.intercontinental.
com
This stunning property built
over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.
Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable,
top-end accommodation and
all the mod-cons make up the
mix here together with the
resorts three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar,
a watering hole located on a
thoroughfare over the lake.
Great gym and health club.
JW Marriott
8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu
Liem, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3833
5588
marriott.com
The first JW Marriott hotel
in Vietnam and designed
by architect Carlos Zapata,
this contemporary, wellappointed property is one of
the most strikingly designed
hotels in the capital. Set in
Hanoi West adjacent to the
National Convention Center.
MELIA HANOI
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
www.meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central
Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws
plenty of business travellers and is also a popular
venue for conferences and
wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant
restaurants, stylish bars,
fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house
guests satisfied.
MVENPICK HOTEL HANOI

83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
www.moevenpick-hanoi.
com
With its distinctive French
architecture and top end
service, Mvenpick Hotel
Hanoi is aimed squarely at
corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge
bar are available to satiate
their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range
of equipment. Massage and
sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to

rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites,
93 are non-smoking.
PULLMAN HOTEL
$$$$
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3733 0808
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and
suites, a contemporary
lobby, an excellent buffet,
and a la carte restaurant,
this Accor group property
is prestigious and close to
the Old Quarter.
SHERATON
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
www.sheraton.com/hanoi
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and
tranquil courtyards, this
peaceful property features
picturesque views of West
Lake and is less than 10
minutes from downtown.
In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers
an outdoor swimming pool
and great relaxation and
fitness facilities, including a
tennis court and spa. There
are well equipped conference rooms and a newly
refurbished Executive Club
Lounge.
SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE

HANOI
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
www.sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French
colonial period is probably
still the finest in todays Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was)
anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where
the service is impeccable
and the luxurious facilities
complement the ambiance of
a bygone era. Definitely the
place to put the Comtessa up
for a night.
SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI

1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3823 8888
Boasting Hanois best views
of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake
and the Red River, Sofitel
Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.
The 5-star hotel features
317 luxurious, comfortable
guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view
ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.
www.airasia.com
Air France
130 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3825 8583
www.airfrance.com.vn
Air Mekong
1st Floor, Centre Point
Building, 106 Nguyen Van
Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: (08) 3846 3999
www.airmekong.com.vn
American Airlines
194 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330
www.aa.com
Cathay Pacific
5th Floor, Centec Tower,
72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3
Tel: 3822 3203
www.cathaypacific.com/
vn
China Airlines
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Tel: 3911 1591
www.china-airlines.com
Japan Airlines
3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3821 9098
www.vn.jal.com
Jetstar Pacific
www.jetstar.com/vn
Korean Air
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3824 2878
www.koreanair.com
Lao Airlines
93 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: 3822 6990
www.laoairlines.com
Malaysia Airlines
Ground Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1
Tel: 3829 2529
www.malaysiaairlines.
com
Singapore Airlines
Saigon Tower Bulding,
Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3823 1588
www.singaporeair.com
Thai Airways
29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3822 3365
www.thaiairways.com.vn
Tiger Airways
www.tigerair.com
vietjetair
www.vietjetair.com
Vietnam Airlines
27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
Tel: 3832 0320
www.vietnamairlines.com
travel
Want to add more information to your listing? Get in touch and

let us see what we can do. Email us at listings@wordvietnam.com
Hanoi Mid-Range
6 ON SIXTEEN
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
www.sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to
grace Hanois Old Quarter,
the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with
handicrafts and antique.
Breakfast is included and in
the long, lounge restaurant
on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is
served up with fresh fruit
juices and Lavazza coffee.
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL
$$$
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928
6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the
Old Quarter, this little slice of
heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient
restaurant, serves the finest
in international and Vietnamese cuisine.
MAISON DHANOI HANOVA HOTEL
$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem
Lake, this glowing pearl in
the heart of Hanoi provides
tranquility with an art gallery
and piano bar.
MAY DE VILLE
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988
Set in the old French Quarter
a short walk from the Opera
House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining
contemporary architecture
with traditional Vietnamese
style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including
four suites.
Hanoi Budget
HANOI BACKBACKERS HOSTEL
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 5372
www.hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town,
with bunk-style beds mixed
or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus
a couple of double suites
from VND250,000. A place
to meet like-minded fold in
the Old Quarter.
HCMC - International
CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Reports
2006 list of the worlds top

100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular
rooftop Saigon Saigon bar,
and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.
DUXTON HOTEL
$$$
63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2999
saigon.duxtonhotels.com
Famous for its daylong
rotatingmenu buffets, the
Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym,
spa, and fine dining.
EQUATORIAL
$$$
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property
boasts seven dining and
entertainment outlets, a
business centre, meeting
rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.
The Equatorial also has an
on-site casino.
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON
$$$$$
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 7777
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex
offers: 14 instant offices,
seven meeting rooms, a
600-capacity ballroom, spa,
outdoor swimming pool, a
gym, 24-hour fine dining,
24-hours room service, and
limousine services.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON
$$$$$
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh
City, resides the Asiana with
signature dining options,
an innovative cocktail bar,
exclusive spa and health
club, together with luxury
boutique arcade.
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON
$$$$
2A4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture,
spacious rooms, and a fine
selection of fine dining, with
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
NEW WORLD HOTEL
$$$$
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Former guests include U.S.
presidents two Bushes,
Clinton and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event
as well as a hotel, New World
is one of the best luxury
stops in town.
PARK HYATT
$$$$$
2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in
location, everything one
would expect from the Hyatt.
The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants
have garnered an excellent
reputation, as has the landscaped pool.
PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE
$$$$$
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the
site of the old Metropole,
this upscale, contemporary
property boasts 306 signature rooms combining
design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine,
a great downtown location
and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600
guests make up the mix.
REX HOTEL
$$$$
3829 2185
rexhotelvietnam.com
Brimming with history the
Rexs openair fifthfloor
bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now
five-star property, boasts
designer fashion and a shopping arcade.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the
Saigon River, a 15-minute
scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town,
Riversides complementary
shuttle services take you
right in the city centre. With
152 fully equipped serviced
apartments, the property
offers special packages for
short-term stay starting at
VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.
floors above the city and

a live music venue on the
same floor.
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA
$$$$
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
This 20story building in
downtown Saigon, caters
to upscale business and
leisure travelers seeking a
classic yet contemporary
stay in Saigon.
WINDSOR PLAZA
$$$
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its
own shopping hub (including
a bank), fine dining, a sauna,
health club, and superb
panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest
Oktoberfest in the region.
HCMC - Deluxe
CONTINENTAL
$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn
This charming old hotel has
been fted in literature and
in film. In the heart of Saigon,
this is the first choice to high-
light Vietnamese culture.
HOTEL MAJESTIC
$$$
1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 5517
majesticsaigon.com.vn
NORFOLK HOTEL
$$$
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique
business hotel is located
minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and
is renowned for its fabulous
steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.
NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE
$$$
167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3822 4866
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has
a contemporary feel, an
international buffet The
Square a rooftop bar, and
a wellness centre including a
swimming pool, gym, sauna
and spa.
STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL
$$$
144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
The newly-built hotel is near

Tan Son Nhat International
Airport. With spectacular
city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming
pool, there is little reason not
to choose this shining star.
HCMC - Mid-Range
ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$
3822 5914
kimdohotel.com
EMM Hotel
157 Pasteur, Q3
A sleek, contemporary
three-star hotel that mixes
vintage appeal and modern
chic thanks to a subdued
palette of white and grey
around two pop colours:
azalea pink and green hot
pepper. Part of the Thien
Minh Group that includes
Victoria Hotels and Buffalo
Tours.
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2
$$$
46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa
Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
THAO DIEN VILLAGE
$$
195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2222
Josephs Hotel
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
Next to the cathedral
RIVERSIDE HOTEL
$$$$$
1819-20 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417
riversidehotelsg.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers
complimentary Wi-Fi, airport
pickup or drop off, a 4th floor
ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River
Restaurant.
SHERATON
$$$$$
3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of
the best locations in town,
with firstclass facilities,
an openair restaurant 23
Free wi-fi, international breakfast,

spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,
multi-shower, friendly service
www.josephshotel.com
5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
Destination Zero
Villa Song
ake the Saigon River, put a villa on

its edge and then transform it into a
boutique hotel. Its a concept thats
worked elsewhere, but only now
has it come to Vietnam.
Once a hotel that was part of the Thao
Dien Village complex in Ho Chi Minh
Citys District 2, Villa Song has been
separated from its former blood brother,
refurbished and rebranded. Reopened in
December 2013, the result is something
unique. Wow factor unique.
Modern yet with an Indochinese touch,
whitewashed and with only minimal
dcor, the elegant 22-room property comes

with a leafy riverfront area, daybeds and a
pool out back. Theres a spa and gym, too,
all making it the kind of property youd
expect to find in Thailand or Bali, but not
in Vietnam. Its a sanctuary, a home away
from home. And for this country its a first.
Seeing is believing, but experiencing
is something else. So I took a weekend
staycation there. Speedboat from
downtown Saigon; brunch by the river; an
afternoon by the pool; dinner in the aircon
restaurant; night in the luxury of my room.
Wine, contemporary western cuisine, Asian
favourites, sun, relaxation and indulgence,

all a short drive from home.
It was everything youd expect from a
luxury, hideaway staycation. Tranquil yet
elegant, relaxing yet with enough promise
of activity to make you leave your room.
Its early days at Villa Song and
details need to be ironed out. But for a
countryside, riverside retreat in urban
Vietnam, this hidden gem is leading the
way. Nick Ross
Villa Song is at 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Ho Chi Minh City, or online at
villasong.com
travel
travel
thaodienvillage.com
A colonialstyle hotel and
spa offers fine Italian, Thai
and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view
that overlook the bank of
the Saigon River, this is truly
someplace special.
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL
$$$
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,
Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256
9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
HCMC - Budget
DUC VUONG HOTEL
$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 6992
ducvuonghotel.com
Free WiFi offered in every
room. Low prices, friendly
staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps
from the backpackers area.
DUNA HOTEL
$
167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel:
(08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
HONG HOA HOTEL
$
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
SINH HUONG HOTEL
$
157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
Hoi An & Danang

An Bang Beach Retreat
An Bang Beach, Hoi An
www.anbangbeachretreat.
com
CUA DAI
$
18A Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:
(0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$
Son Tra Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 396 1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn
FURAMA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang,
Tel: (0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da
Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang
Resort and Spa is beachfront
with a stunning view of the
Marble Mountains. There
are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.
Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.
LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI
$$$
Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui
Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel:
(0510) 354 5105
domainedetamhai.com
LIFE RESORT HOI AN
$$$
1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An,
Tel: (0510) 391 4555
life-resorts.com
MERCURE DANANG
$$$
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379
7777
mercure-danang.com
PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$$
Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son,
Tel: (0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the white sands
of Bac My An beach close
to both Danang and Hoi An,
the welcoming and modern
Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities
and facilities for a dynamic
escape. Perfect for a family
holiday or a romantic beach
getaway.
THE NAM HAI
$$$$
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village,
Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394
0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive
swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant
spa on a lotus pond. Each
massive room has its own
espresso machine, pre
programmed iPod and both
indoor and outdoor showers.
VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH Resort

and Spa
Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510)
392 7040
victoriahotels.asia
Hue & Lang Co

ANGSANA LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnams South
Central Coast, Angsana Lang
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encompasses the resorts contemporary buildings and chic
interiors.
BANYAN TREE LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/
lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The
Banyan Tree offers privacy

and unparalleled exclusivity
with all-pool villas reflecting
the cultural and historical
legacy of past Vietnamese
dynastic periods.
LA RESIDENCE
$$$$
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383
7475
laresidencehue.com
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL
$
48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054)
382 6736
hoangphuonghotel.com
Nha Trang
EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX
SENSES SPA
$$$$
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)
352 2222
sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/
destination
2.6 hectares of private
beachside gardens and
villastyle accommodation
furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool
bar and the signature Six
Senses Spa.
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT
$
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this
budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG
$$$$
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:
(058) 398 9666
mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG
$$$
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:
(058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with
154 guestrooms, all with
a terrace and sea view.
Complete with a pool, spa,
restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up
to 200 delegates.
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY Ninh

Van Bay
$$$$
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372
8222
sixsenses.com/resorts/
ninh-van-bay/destination
The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.
The location is stunning, on a
bay accessible only by boat.
SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL

AND SPA
$$$$
26 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058)
388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang
SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA
$$$
1214 Tran Phu, Nha Trang,
Tel: (058) 382 0999
sunrisenhatrang.com.vn
WHALE ISLAND RESORT
$$
Tel: (058) 384 0501
whaleislandresort.com
Phong Nha
Easy Tiger and Jungle Bar
$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail.
com
A hostel and street-front bar
all in one. Has a pleasant,
airy atmosphere in the bar
and restaurant area while
the 52 dorm beds four
beds to a room go for
US$8 (VND168,000) each a
night.
Phan Thiet & Mui Ne Ho Khanh's Homestay

ALLEZ BOO BEACH Resort and
Spa
$$$$
8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
374 3777
allezboo.com
This resort offers exotic
Balistyle, thatched roof
honeymoon villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms,
fresh seafood, Vietnamese
cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing
and parasailing.
BLUE OCEAN
$$$$
384 7322
life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH
$$$$
384 7111
cocobeach.net
With charming wooden
bungalows, a private beach,
a swimming pool (both with
attached bars) and a French
restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who
opened it in 1995.
MIA RESORT MUI NE
$$$
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
PRINCESS DANNAM RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh,
Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222
princessannam.com
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,
Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria
chain, the thatchedroof
bungalows and family villas
are set in exotic gardens
with an infinity swimming
pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and
jacuzzi.
$$
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
phong-nha-homestay.com
Pepper House
$
Tel: 01678 731560
pepperhouse-homestay.com
CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua
Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang,
Tel: (077) 399 5895
centarahotelsresorts.com
LA VERANDA
$$$$
Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach,
Phu Quoc, Tel: (077) 398
2988
laverandaresorts.com
MANGO BAY
$$
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An ecofriendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.
Sapa
Phong Nha Farmstay
$$
Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers joint
has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool
out back and views overlooking paddy fields and
mountains. Rooms start at
VND600,000 for a twin or
double, with a family room
for five costing VND1.4 million a night.
Phong Nha Lake Resort
$$
Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo
Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052)
367 5999
phongnhalakehouse.com
Saigon - Phong Nha
$$$
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016
sgphongnhahotel@yahoo.
com.vn
Thanh Dat
$
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7328
thanhdatphongnha.com
Phu Quoc
BEACH CLUB RESORT
$$
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island
guesthouse featuring a
beachside restaurant, and
includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and
tours are easily arranged.
Discount rates during rainy
season.
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
$$
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203
871218
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from
its bar restaurant, the Cat
Cat Guesthouse is paradise
at very reasonable rates.
The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log
fireplaces.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$
24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel:
0203 872404
topasecolodge.com
For the environmentally
conscientious, 25 individual
lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar
technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also
organises treks and bicycle
tours.
VICTORIA SAPA
$$$
Tel: 0203 871522
victoriahotels.asia
Vung Tau & Ho Tram

BINH AN VILLAGE
$$$$
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
CON DAO RESORT
$$
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con
Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064)
383 0939
condaoresort.vn
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND

SPA
$$$$
Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is
the ideal getaway from Ho
Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely
travel
bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa
and two swimming pools.
HO TRAM SANCTUARY
$$$$
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come
with their own pool and have
direct access to the beach.
Extras include tennis courts,
a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.
REX HOTEL
$$
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
SIX SENSES CON DAO
$$$$
Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao
The Grand-Ho Tram Strip

Phuoc Thuan Commune,
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand - Ho Tram Strip
is Vietnams first large
scale integrated resort and
ultimately will include a
1,100-room five-star hotel,
a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting
space, an exclusive VIP area,
as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.
The first 541-room tower
of this development opened
in July 2013 with its casino
including 90 live tables and
614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room
tower is on track to open in
2015.
Travel Services Hanoi

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com
www.buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at
the service of all Vietnamese
and expatriate residents
in Vietnam offering easy,
hassle-free travel around
the world and in Vietnam,
with the highest standards
of customer care. This
premium Travel Agency
has been created to help
travelers select their destinations and organize their
trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and
ensure that all journeys are
enjoyable and successful.
BTA customizes leisure and
corporate travel plans while
offering a selected range of
small group tours.
EXOTISSIMO
26, Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 2150
9 XuanDieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
3718 5555
www.exotissimo.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel
agency with an extensive
operational track record in
the Indochina region and
beyond. Providing up-market
services, Exotissimo brings
their clients close to culture
through personalised tours.
Also find travel desks at the
Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which
are open on weekends and
holidays.
HANDSPAN TRAVEL
80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 2828
www.handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers
with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular
and isolated locations in
Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable
and responsible tourism
initiatives. Also provides to
excursions to more wellworn destinations.
HG TRAVEL
47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
www.hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising

in small-group tours around
Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole
representative agent for
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities
in Africa www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines
(www.aa.com) and Turkish
Airlines (www.thy.com).
from the fleet. Alone, as a

couple or with a group, 34
luxurious cabins and suites
are all ready for action. All
you have to do is decide on
how long you want to holiday for.
INDOCHINA LAND
61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2852
www.indochina-land.com
Indochina Land is a French
local travel agency for
expatriates and tourists
who want to see northern
Vietnam in a personal and
tailored way. Think small
knowledgeable teams of
Vietnamese and French
who share their passion for
discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on
freedom, family, health trips
and classic home stays. They
will show you around Ha Giang, too.
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
www.intrepidtravel.com/
vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is
an international travel company operating in Vietnam
since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks
and small group adventures.
With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid
focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City,
Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong
Bay, Sapa and beyond to get
you up close to Vietnams
people, cuisine, history and
culture.
Travel Services Elsewhere

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY
81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 9170
buffalotours.com.vn
This premium travel agency
helps travelers select their
destinations and organize
their trips. From corporate
travel to small group tours,
explore the world or Vietnam.
EXOTISSIMO
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)
3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotissimo.com
A reliable and experienced
travel company operating
through Southeast Asia,
Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the
region, many including insights into culinary customs,
handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING
SERVICE
11th floor, 36 Bui Thi Xuan,
District 1, HCMC
Call center: 1900 5454 40
www.en.chudu24.com
info.en@chudu24.com
Chudu24.com - the locally
famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is
known for having the best
prices and reliable service.
If you are looking for great
local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com.
It has been the #1 Vietnam
hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.
FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

(08) 3824 7744
flightravelco.com
Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel
insurance, to corporate
companies, family and individual travelers.
FLY VIETNAM
flyvietnam.com
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM
108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui

Ne, Tel: 0908 400108
mantasailing.org
TERRAVERDE
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di,
Ward 4, Tan Binh District,
Tel: (08) 3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through
the Mekong Delta, trekking
in the highlands, or lazing in
a junk on Ha Long Bay all
while making a difference in
peoples lives then this
company will suit you well.
TU TRAVEL
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho
City, Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

169A De Tham, Q1, Tel:
01222 993585
vietnamvespaadventure.
com
Vespa Adventure offers multiday tours of southern and
coastal Vietnam on the back
of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable
biodiesel. English-speaking
tour guides lead the way.
149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel:

0904 193308
SYRENA CRUISES
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 7214
www.syrenacruises.com
If youre thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while
enjoying luxury comfort,
Syrena Cruises could be the
quencher youre looking for.
Forget drinking games and
backpackers by relaxing on
one of the two wooden boats
www.cocobeach.net
paradise@cocobeach.net
Coco Beach Resort
58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, W. Ham Tien

Phan Thiet, Vietnam
+84-(0)62-3847111 / 2 / 3
travel
Travel Promos
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for most. And getaways like the one that
Ana Mandara is offering with their Chill
Spring package are a big part of that.
For VND2,499,000 net per couple, youll
spend one night in a princely Villa Room,
waking up to complimentary breakfast,
with 10 percent off any other food or drink
purchased at the property and 20 percent
discounts on spa treatments. The package
is applicable through Mar. 31.
Dalat Edensee a Travellers Choice

dalatedensee.com
Dalat Edensee Resort & Spa has just been

recognised for its efforts by the millions
of reviewers whose positive vibes went
into determining the winners of the
2014 Travellers Choice Awards. Peter
H., a British traveller, summed up the
reasons that Edensee was voted into the
top 10 hotels for families in Vietnam by
saying, I would stay here again without
hesitation and it is tremendous value for
money.
Teambuilding at Lang Co
@Ansana Lang Co
angsana.com
For meeting bookings made before
Jun. 30 for stays and bookings until
Oct. 31 Angsana has some added
incentives for bringing your team to
Central Vietnam in their Twos On Us

promotion. Groups that reserve 20
room nights and a full-day meeting
package qualify for two perks among
the following list: choice of a 30-minute
All-Terrain-Vehicle ride, archery, or water
pillar paddle experience per delegate; a
half-day guided meditation trip to Truc
Lam Zen Monastery; a pre-dinner open
bar; two 90-minute a la carte spa sessions
at Angsana Spa per 20 room nights; or
two 18-hole green fee waivers at the Sir
Nick Faldo-designed Laguna Lang Co
championship golf course per 20 room
nights. Tons of other perks are involved
especially for organisers so get
cracking.
Hanoi
the promotions // book buff // the alchemist // the therapist // Medical buff //
student eye
Photo by francis roux
hanoi
old quarter
Bars & Clubs / Cafes / Clothing & Accessories / Crafts & Furniture / Eat / Fitness & Yoga /
Groceries & Liquor / Hairdressers & Salons
Bars & Clubs

CHEEKY QUARTER
LATE NIGHT LOCAL

1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
0904 032829
8pm to late
Last building on the right
before Hang Buom, this
popular with the French
(and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has
the same Old Quarter vibe;
small, cosy and personal
with funky twists and an
awesome logo. Spread over
two floors with good tunes,
drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till
late. Also does tasty paninis
into the early hours.
DRAGONFLY
DANCEHALL LOUNGE
15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 4926 2177
11am to late
One of the better venues in
the Old Quarter for dancing
on the weekends. Although
crammed into a small space,
cheap drinks and a mix of
chart chits makes Dragonfly
the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident
looking to get up on the
dance floor. If you dont feel
like dancing, relax upstairs
with shisha and friends with
one of the two lounges on
the second floor. The sister
venue on Phung Hung has a
bigger menu and an earlier
opening hour (11am instead
of 6pm) but still keeps with
the shisha, pool table and
dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.
FATCAT BAR
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

(04) 5333 6087
linkhanoi.com
4pm to late
Straddling Bia Hoi Corner
and the cobblestoned end
of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a
small establishment from the
minds behind the party and
event organisers, LinkHanoi.
The bar has tables filling the
first floor and spilling onto
the sidewalk as well as a
small loft area for lounging.
Nightly cocktail specials,
reasonable bottles deals
starting at VND500,000 and
a DJ on the decks make up
the mix.
FUNKY BUDDHA
ELECTRO LOUNGE
(04) 3292 7614
8pm to late
HAIR OF THE DOG
LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE

0947 893232
10am to late
HALF MAN HALF NOODLE
LATE DIVE BAR

62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3926 1943
3pm to late
IRISH WOLFHOUND
IRISH PUB
4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821
irishwolfhoundpub.com
8am to 2am
The open-air watering hole
with seating on the pavement
is a great spot to enjoy a tall
dark stout or light pilsner at
anytime, day or night. What it
lacks in gaudy decorations,
it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and
billiards on the third floor.
Has a decent food menu and
even better pizzas.
LA BOMBA LATINA
LATIN BAR
46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: 0917 245155
LE PUB
BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL
RESTOBAR
25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 2104
7am to midnight
Dark red walls and even
darker brown seating run
through the homely and
casual Le Pub, one of the few
bars in town with a regular
stream of clientele. A long
list of imported beer, Tiger
draft, a decent international
cum Vietnamese food menu,
happy hour specials and live
sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets
involved in the local community through regular events.
MAOS RED LOUNGE
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

(04) 3926 3104
spite being one of the oldest

pubs in the city, this staple
watering hole on Bao Khanh
continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi
has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals
and expats who find solace
in the nightly conversations
at the long bar, billiards and
live football matches.
ROCKSTORE
LIVE MUSIC BAR
01653 336087
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock
Cafe without the stigma and
the expensive prices. Nightly
live music or DJing events
are coupled with creative
decor, a selection of Belgian
Beer and a food menu.
SPY BAR
HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 2269 1107
TEMPLE BAR
NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR

Tel: (04) 6675 7908
TET BAR
LATE-NIGHT BAR
2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 3050
THE SPOT
LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE

(04) 3935 1874
8am to midnight
Cafes
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi
in 2009. Joma contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3825 0216
7am to 8pm
MOCA CAFE
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
(04) 3825 6334
8am to 10pm
Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly
location gives Moca a large
amount of guidebook-driven
clientele. But dont let this put
you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good
WiFi and some of the best
coffee in town makes this
a great spot to while away
a couple of hours. The food
menu mixes Vietnamese fare
with sandwiches, western
and pan-Asian mains.
PUKU
INTERNATIONAL CAFE
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem
joma.biz
Housed in a two-storey converted, colonial-era villa, the
concept of the third Joma is
the same as at its two other
cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter,
and a great selection of
sandwiches, bagels, salads,
cakes, ice-cream and tea.
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745
Open 24 hours
This spacious spot on food
street is open around the
clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along
with more eclectic Irish
nachos, cottage pies and
pan-Asian fare. Upstairs
is fit for social gatherings
and live music while the nosmoking downstairs space
is filled with people working
and socialising. Serves as
community centre, catering
both to ravenous backpackers whove just arrived off
the night train from Sapa and
locals looking to meet up.
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
THE CART
CAFE PHO CO
COFFEE SHOP WITH A VIEW

Back of 11 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8153
Joma
POLITE PUB
LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3825 0959
5pm to 2am
A bit musty and jaded, de-
COFFEE/BAKERY
222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 3388
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

18 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem (entrance on street behind Au
Trieu), Tel: (04) 3938 2513

thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small a cozy caf hidden
on the quietest of Hanoian
streets. Serves and delivers
tasty baguettes, homemade
juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery
service is quick and reliable,
which makes this lunchtime
favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
Clothing & Accessories

BOO SKATESHOP
SKATESHOP
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 1147
Booskateshop.com
CONTRABAND
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9891
Launched in Hanoi in 2007,
Contraband targets young
hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look
after making them ideal for
work and travel. New styles
are introduced each month
with limited production runs,
offering a sense of exclusivity.
LAtelier
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 2419
ateliervietnam.com
The downtown store of this
well-known chic boutique.
Stocks womens wear,
leather bags, shoes and
handicrafts. Offers both

ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem.
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital has seen
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
SONG
ECO-STYLE VIETNAMESE
27 Pho Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 6965
asiasongdesign.com
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3828 6965
This shops motto Western
sizes, Vietnamese prices,
says it all. While mostly retailing womens separates
in soft cotton jersey and
linen, the store also carries a range of accessories
like embroidered canvas
totes and printed tees. Has
a good selection of unique
mens shirts.
THREE TREES
JEWELLERY
(04) 3928 8725
Crafts & Furniture

MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang
Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
hanoi
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 2645
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital will see
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
19A Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
CAFE DE PARIS
FRENCH BISTRO
12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327
cafedeparis-hanoi.com
8am to 11pm
Thanks to its original tiled
floor, cast iron backed
chairs and wall-hung black
and white photography,
there is something decidedly
charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar.
Serving up a simple menu
of snacks such as quiche
Lorraine, Paris beurre and
croque monsieur, there is
also a selection of classic
but unpretentious French
mains. Has a daily specials
board and a decent range
of pizzas.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
Tel: (04) 3993 1399
10am to 10.30pm
A slither of a joint serving
up the same fare that the
lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an
international version of the
mighty curry they even
sell pork and beef here the
menu keeps to the northern
part of the subcontinent with
masala, dopiaza, korma and
the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a
good range of breads and
tandoor-cooked kebabs.
GREEN MANGO
WESTERN / VIETNAMESE
18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9916
greenmango.vn
7.30am to 11.30pm
GREEN TANGERINE
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

(04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
10am to 11pm daily
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets
you as you walk into this
French era-built villa that
houses the main section of
this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing
mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine,
blended in with Vietnamese
ingredients and cooking
styles, the resultant fare
has had customers coming
back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids
menu is also available, as is a
wine list focusing mainly on
French wines.
LITTLE HANOI
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 5333
7.30am to 11pm
MEDITERRANEO
PAN-ITALIAN
(04) 3826 6288
10am to 11pm
This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral
serves all the traditional
Italian fare you could need
homemade mozzarella
and fresh pasta, spinach
and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
boards, soups, salads and
fish. Throw in an extensive
wine list, a traditional wood
fire oven and a balcony spot
looking over Hanois trendy
caf scene and youre onto
a winner.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926
0639
10am to midnight
Little India
INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE

32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 1859
littleindianhn@gmail.com
LA RESTAURANT
25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 8933
8am to 10pm
The complimentary warm
bread with rosemary is
reason enough to visit this
homely spot featuring hearty
lentil and black bean soups,
along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef
tenderloin or tofu with chilli
and mushrooms. We arent
quite sure why the Miele
Guide nominated it as one of
Asias finest restaurants as
service is lackadaisical and
tables could use candles to
improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately
tasty dishes more than make
up for any quips.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
(04) 3828 9052
8am to 11pm
A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed caf
and bar with an extensive
list of reliable cuisine. Tapas
are available, as well as full
courses such as veal, and
duck with currant sauce.
Known for its good, European-style coffee and firstfloor terrace area with views
over the cathedral. Has a
second garden restaurant
on Xuan Dieu.
MILLENIUM
PAN-FRENCH
11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10pm
Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium
restaurant is the minimal
and chic result of a Caf Des
Arts makeover. The streets
new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking
goes over two floors and
has a welcome and inviting
three-level outdoor terrace
high up amid the concrete
and cables of the Old Quarter.
NAMASTE HANOI
PAN-INDIAN
47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3935 2400
namastehanoi.com
11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10.30pm
The latest newcomer to the
Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in
dishes from both northern
and southern India using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you
between VND150,000 and
VND300,000 and everything
is there, from curries and
breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or
out with a free delivery.
OLD HANOI
GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 8337
10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm
Gordon Ramsay once filmed
a show at this restaurant in
a renovated French villa and
now the ribs carry his namesake. But its the twist on old
world favourites, think fried

snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo,
in a casually elegant setting
that make this spot near
the train tracks standout.
Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and
check the schedule for live
traditional music.
PROVECHO
TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL

0912 223966
The successor of My Burger
My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny,
multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style,
chargrilled burgers from
around VND50,000 with a
range of additional toppings
including jalapeno peppers,
smoked bacon, mushrooms,
cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also
has a good range of Tex-Mex
fare, a number of pan-Asian
dishes and a decent delivery
service.
SOUTHGATE
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 1979
southgatehanoi.com
THE KAFE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 6245
thekafe.vn
Spacious, casual, energetic
and beautifully designed, The
KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy
the modern urban diner.
Preparing fresh food and
drinks that show respect to
natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe,
this caf-cum-restaurant is
a popular choice for Hanois
metrosexual community.
THE MOOSE AND ROO
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,
Tel:(04) 3200 1289
Contemporary Australian
and Canadian comfort food
in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.
Best known for their Scotch
egg, poutine and burgers.
Clever changing imagery on
the walls.
in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesnt focus on

faux meat. Features a wide
range of juices and shakes
in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has
Asian favourites like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu
and Thai glass noodle salad,
along with some falafel and
western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will
find something to try on this
menu.
THE LOFT STOP CAF
FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES

11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
8am to 11pm
SPICE
CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT

(04) 3926 0580
TANDOOR
PAN-INDIAN
(04) 3824 5359
11am to 10.30pm
A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising
in Northern Indian cuisine.
Has an indoor and upstairs,
white tablecloth aircon
area with a more casual
dining and bar space out
front. Does excellent kebabs
served from an authentic
tandoor oven as well as the
full range of mainly North
Indian curries. Also has a
branch in Saigon and does
excellent set lunches.
ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAF

16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 0253
Fitness & Yoga

ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong
Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3923 0253
An international Yoga studio
providing classes across a
variety of levels and styles,
including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative
yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also
have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats,
books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.
Groceries & Liquor

BACCHUS CORNER
TAMARIND
CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN
(04) 3926 0580
5.30am to 10.30pm
Perhaps the only restaurant
WINE RETAILER
1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 1393
Part of the Tan Khoa chain,
the largest liquor and wine
distributor in the country,
the walls here are lined with
a decent selection of wines,

pleasantly arrayed and back
lit. Besides their selection of
new and old world wines
Helpful staff and free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 7666
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams
ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of
the greatest wines from the
best wine-growing regions
on the planet. The portfolio
mixes the best of both old
and new world wines.
Hairdressers & Salons

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
Supermarkets
Big C Supermarket
222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau
Giay
Citimart Hanoi Towers

49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem
Citimart Vincom Towers

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba
Trung
Fivimart
210 Tran Quang Khai,
Hoan Kiem
10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh
671 Hong Hoa Tham,
Ba Dinh
71 Nguyen Chi Thanh,
Dong Da
51 Xun Dieu, Tay Ho
93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
Online shopping: www.
fivimart.com.vn
Hanoi Star Supermarket

36 Cat Linh, Dong Da
Intimex
22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan
Kiem
131-135 Hao Nam, Dong
Da
17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba
Trung
27 Huynh Thuc Khang,
Dong Da
Metro
126 Tam Trinh, Yen So,
Hoang Mai
Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue,
Tu Liem
hanoi
LESPACE
hoan kiem
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

Tel: (04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com
Bars & Nightclubs / Cafes / Cinemas / Clubs & Societies / Eat /

Classes / Groceries & Liquor
PARIS DELI
g
Lon
n
Bi
Chu
Trin
h
B i
Triu
Hng
17 COWBOYS
WILD WEST THEME BAR

98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822
LA FE VERTE
HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem
Zone 17
the room and a barbecue until the early hours theres

quite an atmosphere in this
pleasant watering hole.
RELAX BAR
MODEL CLUB
GAMES RESTOBAR
104 Bach Dang, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: 0906 210212
uyn
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan
Kiem
ROOFTOP
PLAY GAMING LOUNGE
h
Hn T
PHUC TAN
FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
6282 5555
Hoteldelopera.com
7am to 2am
La Fe Verte (or the Green
Fairy) is a metaphor for the
decadence of another age,
an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The
signature bar of the Hotel de
lOpra Hanoi where, just as
in Paris at the dawn of the
20th century, the making
of an evening drink a lavish
event of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a
lounge atmosphere, great
music and ultra-contemporary interior design combine
to bring a genuine sense of
occasion to after-dark in the
capital.
CATWALK BAR
45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung
8pm to late
Hu
Phan
nh D
Kh
Trn
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
Tin
Trn
Hn
g
o
L Vn H u
CAF / BOULANGERIE
6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269
7.30am to 11pm
Time has been good to this
airy, bistro-style caf and
patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital,
despite its prime location
prices remain reasonable
espresso-style coffees cost
around VND40,000 and
the cakes and croissants
are moreish. Also does filled
baguettes and a larger cafcum-restaurant menu. Has a
second establishment at 13
Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
inh Ti
n H o n g
Hng
Phng
H n g G
Hng iu
Hng
Qun
g
Hn
hi
L T
Q u
n S
i
Kh
Trn
g
a ng
Qu
Thi
Nguy
n Du
Bars & Nightclubs
ng
n
Tr
L Thi T
Ngu
yn
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HOAN KIEM
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Eat
SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B
Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3946 1901
8am to midnight
TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE
ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem
tadioto.com
Located close to the Opera
House, this alternative, arty
bar is garnished in red and
white on the outside, with
warm brown and tones of
blue on the inside. Creating
an atmosphere merging
Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary
artwork lines the walls at
the latest incarnation of this
well-known and well-loved
space.
BAMBOO BAR
17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem
The first bar in what will
eventually (hopefully) be a
zone dedicated to bars and
restaurants. A pool table, a
square bar in the middle of
Cafes
CIAO CAF
RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3934 1494
7am to 11pm
A stones throw from the
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
this Saigonese franchise
tries its hand with a variety
of different western dishes
at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and
a steady, young Vietnamese
crowd, the establishment is
a great place to squash a
sandwich or bowl of pasta
and people watch. Oh, and
they also do coffee, too.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,
Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3825 0216
7am to 8pm
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
TWITTER BEANS COFFEE

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760
twitterbeanscoffee.com
Cinemas
CINEMATHEQUE
ARTS CINEMA
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648
Not a movie theatre per se,
but a private film club that
charges a membership fee in
return for entrance to a wide
selection of movies, new and
old. The management has
an eclectic taste and shows
films from all over the world.
Clubs & Societies

AMERICAN CLUB
EVENT SPACE
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 1850
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE

SOCIETY (HITS)
THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com
AL FRESCOS
23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
ANGELINA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
11.30am to 2.30pm and
6.30am to late (restaurant)
11am to 2am (bar)
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts
of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all
for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar
and an a la carte menu, with
a creative selection of fruit
caipirinhas on hand to wash
it all down. The prices arent
for anyone on a budget, but
the amount and quality of
meat is more than worth
cost.
CAF LAUTREC
MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
6282 5555
6am to 10pm
Featuring both -la-carte
and buffet dining as well
as an innovative Sunday
brunch, this namesake of the
French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a
mixture of international and
Mediterranean-style fare.
Has an extensive wine list
to match the cuisine, which
is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired
environment.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
Tel: (04) 3824 7280
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully
designed space over three
floors. Already with venues

in Saigon and Bangkok, the
essence of this popular
chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay, but everything
from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to
head to El Gaucho.
JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388
alfrescogroup.com
9.30am to midnight
Then newest venture from
the team behind Jaspas
and Pepperonis is an all-day
eating and drinking lounge fit
for all occasions. It has three
floors for different vibes
lounge bar, restaurant and
boardroom but fine imported steads can be found
on each, as well as seafood
and a huge wine list. A popular venue.
JASPAS
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba
Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
6.30am to midnight
Recently refurbished, the
Australian-influenced Jaspas is known for its attentive
service, tasty food and large
portions. A place with something for everyone, it has
proved itself to be popular
with both the western and
Asian expat communities
who come back again and
again. The comprehensive
menu is a fusion of western
and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is
mainly New World. Also has
a spacious bar and lounge
area that stays open late for
all the live sport.
LA BADIANE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3942 4509
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to
10pm. Closed Sunday night.
A white-washed, colonial
era villa replete with period
wooden shutters greets you
as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.
Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or
take to the leafy covered
terrace out back with its
walls lined with art and photography from 21st century
Hanoi. The menu here mixes
modern Gallic cuisine with a
touch of Mediterranean and
Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an
extensive wine list and an
excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.
hanoi
The Promotions
LA PETIT TONKINOISE
ART DECO / INTERNATIONAL

58A Tran Quoc Toan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 3336
8am to 10pm
LE BEAULIEU
CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15
Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3826 6919
6am to 10am, 11.30am
to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to
10.30pm
LUNO DAUTUNNO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
78 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3823 7338
11am to 11pm
This old-favourite Italian
uses traditional wood ovens
to prepare some of the citys
finest pizzas, which range
from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.
Set inside a large, thoughtful
space seasoned chefs also
make fresh pastas, soups
and cheeses the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights
make it well worth a visit, as
does the large wine list and
choice of desserts.
NINETEEN 11
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang
3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm
PANE E VINO
Hanoi Daewoo Hotel

Hanoi Daewoo Hotel is offering
a selection of great discounts on
cuisine in their restaurants this
month, with deals on Japanese,
Chinese and bakery fare. Edo
Restaurant is offering 25 percent
discounts on Japanese cuisine on
Saturdays and Sundays, including
a variety of special selections
from Edos top-notch chefs. Dim
Sum is the perfect group outing
with Silk Road Restaurants pay
3, get 1 specials on dim sum
buffets throughout the month.
Finally, Daewoos deli bakerys
fresh goods are discounted 30
percent every day from 6pm until
close.
Hanoi Daewoo Hotel is located at
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
Experience SingaporeStyle Chilli Crab

Get a taste of Singapore with
Fortuna Hotel this month.
Renowned for its fragrance and
tender texture, Singapore chilli
crab is a favourite among seafood
lovers, distinct in its pairing with

savoury red tangy sauce and
deep-fried mantou bread. May
Man Chinese Cuisine prepares
the dish this March in perfect and
authentic style.
Fortuna Hotels May Man Chinese
Cuisine is located at 6B, Lang Ha,
Ba Dinh. For reservations, call (04)
3831 3333, ext. 6260/6461 or visit
fortuna.vn
The Spring Season at Caf

Lautrec
Hotel de LOpera is introducing
a new set menu this Spring at
Caf Lautrec. Choose between a
two and three-course set menu
for VND380,000++ per person
and VND480,000++ per person,
respectively.
For daytime dining options,
impress your colleagues with a
special meal in Lautrecs cozy
and private atmosphere. Enjoy
Mediterranean-style set lunches
with two and three-course
options costing VND360,000++
per person and VND460,000++
per person, respectively.

For reservations and inquiries,
contact Caf Lautrec at Hotel de
LOpera at (04) 6282 5555, ext. 6421
Pasta Perfection
Brasserie Westlake, part of
Sofitel Plaza Hanois culinary
collection, is starting Spring with
some new pasta dishes courtesy
of their resident Chef Andre.
Offerings of tagliatelle, ravioli
and other homemade pastas
rotate on a daily basis, with a
selection of sauces including
carbonara, garlic cream, pesto
and Bolognese featured in these
dishes. And, for groups dining
at Brasserie, special deals are
available, including: groups
of four pay for only three, and
groups of six only pay for four
guests. And, in celebration of
International Womens Day, a 30
percent discount is applied to
all female guests on Mar. 8 and
Mar. 9.
Sofitel Plaza Hanoi is at 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh
PAN-ITALIAN
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
8am to 10.30pm
Just a stroll away from the
Hanoi Opera House and
Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart
of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves
up authentic Italian food
and has done for as long as
anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated,
oven fresh pizzas and large
variety of pasta and salad
dishes look forward to fine
food done well at this eatery
that has the feel of Europe.
Huge wine lists, friendly staff
and a loveable owner.
PRESS CLUB
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To,
0888
hanoi-pressclub.com
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm
to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday
lunch
Wooden flooring, paneling
and bold but subtle colours
pervade this traditional but
contemporary, fine-dining
70-seater venue close to
the Opera House. Serving
up quality cuisine for over
a decade, Press Club boasts
a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine
room, a library and a vast
selection of cigars, all in an
hanoi
elegant atmosphere. Does
four excellent wine pairing menus, put together
through the aid of the Press
Clubs extensive new and old
world wine list. Also hosts a
popular first-Friday-of-themonth party.
bagels. Starting in Laos in

1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
tay ho
Arts / Bars & Clubs / Book Shops / Cafes / Clothing / Cooking Classes /
Crafts & Furniture / Cycling & Bicycle Rentals / Eat / Fitness & Yoga /
Groceries, Liquor & Kitchen Products / Medical & Dental / Expat Services
SATINE
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414
hoteldelopera.com
n
A n Dng V g
TAY HO
DISTRICT
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Wrap & Roll
Qu
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Lo
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INTIMEX
VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET
22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
PANE E VINO WINE SHOP
WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
This Italian favourite with a
huge food menu also has a
huge for-retail wine list that
is 100 percent focused on
fine wines and liquors from
Italy. Owner Hoang has great
knowledge of Italian wine and
a passion to match, which is
sure to land you with the best
wine for any occasion.
c Long Qun
Ni
Thanh
Ho
n
Arts
WORK ROOM FOUR
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

workrmfour@gmail.com
workrmfour.tumblr.com
A place to work. A space to
create. Somewhere to see
something new. Work Room
Four is pulling together the
threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas,
exhibitions, workshops,
artist studios, courses, contacts and events.
Bars & Clubs

88 LOUNGE
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 8029
88group.vn
5pm to late
A wine bar with a difference,
this addition to the watering
hole scene in West Lake
mixes contemporary design,
black ceilings, subtle lighting
and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine
lists in town. Not surprisingly
it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.
HANOI ROCK CITY
LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: 01633 166170
hanoirockcity.com
5pm to midnight
Thm
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Ho
Bi
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With a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an

upstairs space dedicated to
live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the
only venue in the capital
of its kind. Has weekly live
events featuring bands both
from Vietnam and overseas
established and up and
coming. Email jimihendrix@
hanoirockcity.com for more
information or check out
their page on Facebook.
HOUSE OF SON TINH
LIQUOR LOUNGE
(04) 3718 6377
sontinh.com
8am to 11.30pm
As part of the Highway 4
group, which now has its
offices in the establishments upstairs areas, this
bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish
furnishings is famed for its
luxurious rice wine liquors
and newly created cocktail
class. Does regular events
on the first floor and also
has a creative Vietnamese
food menu based on cuisine
sold at other restaurants in
the chain.
RED RIVER TEA ROOM
LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho
Open daily from 2pm.
Located on the lakeside lane
just below Xuan Dieu, this
warm, quiet and friendly
Ph
Qun Th
Phan
nh P
h n g
nh
DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3943 1009
Hanoigourmet.com
The long-running Hanoi
Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and
artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a
look at the deli and sit down
for a light snack.
oa
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HANOI GOURMET
Tm
SUPERMARKET
27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
hi
Ng
FIVIMART
WINE RETAILER
Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3941 2789
Daloc.vn
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Di
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DA LOC
BOOKWORM TOO
Ho
n
Hong Quc Vit
SUPERMARKET
Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers,
Tel: (04) 3934 2999
Book Shops
Lc
Tn
Groceries & Liquor

CITIMART
Ngu
yn
Ho
ng
5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza,

24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: (04) 3824 3718
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and
bright pastel colours of
Wrap n Roll are just part
of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand
which is all about spring rolls
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with
two restaurants in Hanoi
the second in Royal City.
ers, cooked fresh to order,

Tracys is most famous for
their draft beers, claiming
to serve the coldest draft
beer in Hanoi, and always
in a frosted mug. For those
missing their dose of North
American sports, they play
all day via satellite on two
plasmas.
pub offers a selection of international and local beers,

wine, cocktails and a nice
view of West Lake. Serving
pies and pasties from The
Cart, Vietnamese food from
Dieus next door, or delivery
from nearby favorites. Nonsmoking, unpretentious,
dog-friendly.
TAY TAP
MEET-UP SPOT
100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6917
4pm to late
Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar
with two beers on tap as
well as wine, cocktails and
spirits on the shelves this
newcomer venue has a grill
menu catering to the tastes
of both East and West. For
those in search of a good
old-fashioned Sloppy Joe
or grilled cheese, youll be
glad to know the kitchen is
stocked to the ceiling with
comfort foods.
TRACYS PUB AND GRILL
SPORTS BAR/GRILL
40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel:
(04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
11am to 12am
This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the
main drag of Xuan Dieu is
perpetually crowded with
regulars drinking out front
on plastic stools. Notorious
for its mouth-watering burg-
NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS

1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay
Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
Cafes
COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
7am to 10pm
Finally the newest addition
to the Hanoi coffee scene
has opened a little closer to
town than the first outlet in
Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee
Bean is a multilevel, indoor/
outdoor caf overlooking
Westlake. With its LA coffee
and office feel, when you
walk in you might just forget
that youre in Westlake.
LA GRACE
ART CAFE & GALLERY

8B/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: 0912 666736
lagrace.com.vn
7.15am to 10pm
Located on a peaceful
street named after the famous painter, To Ngoc Van,
La Grace is a destination
for those who appreciate
lifes pleasures: drinks,
food, arts and sometimes
live music. Clean, comfortable and friendly, the venue
has a nice selection of
juices and smoothies and a
Vietnamese-cum-Japanese
food menu put together using organic vegetables. Set
lunches cost VND150,000,
and the caf also has strong
WiFi as well as separate nonsmoking and smoking areas.
SAINT HONORE
CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3933 2355
st.honorehn@gmail.com
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this
cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in
the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk
through the door. Serving
all day long, the downstairs
space is split into the bakery
on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the
other. The homely upstairs
lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.
Simple but tasty French and
international fare is served
at meal times.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CHAIN
Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
7am to 11pm
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
COFFEE/BAKERY
43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6071
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
SEGAFREDO
ITALIAN CAFE
(04) 3718 0212
segafredo.com.vn
7am to 11pm
Names of some of the
worlds greatest cities cover
the front wall of Segafredo,
an Italian cafe and eatery
serving up some of the best
espresso-based coffee in
town. Red and white decor,
lifestyle black and white coffee drinking images and an
open plan space make up
the mix. Besides the caffeinebased drinks, also does
granita, teas, shakes and
modern Italian fare ranging from panini and focaccia through to pizza, pasta,
salads and desserts.
TET DCOR CAF
ART CAF & ESPRESSO BAR

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay
Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
8am to 6pm, Tuesday to Sunday
Cloistered among the back
streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan
Dieu, TET Dcor Caf is a destination for those who appreciate
lifes pleasures: coffee, food, art
and music. Simple and unpretentious, the caf has an oldfashioned warmth and rustic
feel combined with unique and
inspiring art installations.
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small cozy caf and sandwich
bar hidden away in Nghi Tam
Village. Serves and delivers tasty
baguettes, homemade juices,
quiches, pies, muffins and cakes.
The delivery service is quick and
reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE

(THBC)
CAF / TAPAS BAR

44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
9am to 10pm
Tucked down an alleyway just
off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle
Collective is not just a place for
all bicycle lovers, but a caf that
also sells Spanish tapas served
up with gin & tonic, if the mood
so takes you. Organising bicycle
tours, running yoga sessions
and holding music concerts in
their upstairs cafe area, they
also sell, rent and fix bikes and
are an official supplier of TREK
and SURLY cycling equipment.
Eclectic? Not a chance!
Clothing
GEORGES FASHION BOUTIQUE
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6233
With new styles arriving in store
every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses,
shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported
fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from
petite to average to the generous
figure. Alterations and a madeto-measure service are available
at no extra cost.
LATELIER
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

3718 6758
ateliervietnam.com
Stocks womens wear, leather
bags, shoes and handicrafts.
This chic boutique offers both
ready-to-wear and made-to-fit
clothing.
Cooking Classes
HIDDEN HANOI
COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912
254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these
well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will
guide you through the secrets of
Vietnamese cooking in an open
air courtyard.
HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS

VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE
68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 848301
Crafts & Furniture

LA CASA
CONTEMPORARY DESIGN
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084
lacasavietnam.com.vn
A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other
household objects, this spot
has everything from beds and
bookshelves, to tableware and
silverware. The items are all
locally made by skilled artisans
from Hanoi and the surrounding
regions.
MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development nonprofit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories.
Styles vary from traditional to
patterned and Asian-inspired.
Founded in 2001 and with
outposts in several locations
around the region, the shop
employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an income and care for their families.
Cycling & Bicycle Rentals

DONS TAY HO
BICYCLE RENTALS
16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
Thang Long Cycling
CYCLING SHOP
152 Yen Hoa, Tay Ho, Tel: 0986
866538
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE

(THBC)
CYCLING COLLECTIVE
44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
Tucked down an alleyway just
off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle
Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of
TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but
also rents and fixes bicycles. To
add to the eclectic, community
spirit they also organise bicycle
tours, run yoga sessions, hold
music concerts in their upstairs
cafe area and run a great menu
of Spanish tapas served up, if

you so wish, with gin & tonic.
Quite a mix!
Eat
AL FRESCOS
3719 5322
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
DA PAOLO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai
Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317
11am to 11pm
This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to
the famed lawn chair and coconut caf on West Lake has
all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long
time former manager of Luna
DAutunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas
from VND120,000 and other
Italian delicacies. Open every
day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.
DALUVA
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
3718 5831
daluva.com
8am until late
A popular hang-out for expats
and trendy Vietnamese in the
Xuan Dieu area on West Lake.
This bar and restaurant offers
casual dining with a classy,
Middle-Eastern twist, as well as
wine, tapas, events and attractive dcor.
DONS TAY HO
CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
Monday to Friday, 10am to late.
Weekends 8am to late
This lake-facing venue with
its top floor Oyster Bar is the
work of charismatic Canadian
restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing
on comfort food done well, the
main restaurant menu includes
anything from wood-grilled rare
tuna steak with fragrant Chinese
black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such
as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with
crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range
of imported oysters and has an
extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and
preparation with great service
in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three
floors. Already with venues in
Saigon and Bangkok, the es-
sence of this popular chain is

quality top grade meats off the
grill. Steak is the mainstay, but
everything from chicken, pork
and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting
and an extensive wine list and
thats another reason to head to
El Gaucho.
HALIA HANOI
SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY
INTERNATIONAL
3946 0121
thehalia.com
Monday Saturday 11am to
11pm. Closed on Sundays
A multi-floored venue with a bar
area and a refined dining space.
The menu includes Singaporean
specialities such as the shrimp
satay salad and the chilli crab
spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light
Asian flavours is also on offer.
Has an extensive wine list.
HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD

GRILL
CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD

Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to
10pm
The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering
both the Northern and Southern
hemispheres. Choose from Black
Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye,
Rump and Tenderloin grilled to
perfection. Prefer Seafood
no problem, Lobster, Oysters,
Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and
Crabs are all available for your
dining pleasure, as well as an
impressive array of wines by the
glass & bottle from our
Il Faro
ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN
Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 6327 1142
Hidden away in Cong Doan Hotel,
this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned by the same people
behind Mediterraneo serves up
an assortment of French, Spanish and Italian dishes in a pleasant, white-washed yet Italianinfluenced atmosphere.
J.A.F.A.
INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3758 2400
7am to 11pm
One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is
a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages
are not the cheapest, but this
is made up for by service and
ambiance. They also have a full
menu featuring familiar western
dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic
buffets and drink specials are
also offered.
hanoi
Book Buff
A Passage to India
This month Bookworms Truong looks at the wide selection of English language novels based on India
e get a lot of India-philes through

our stores, readers who just cant
get enough of the good quality
literature about the subcontinent.
A lot have been introduced by authors native
to India, particularly those that have won
Booker Prizes like Midnights Children, The
God of Small Things, The Inheritance of Loss and
The White Tiger. Others have fallen in love
between the numerous pages of A Fine Balance
or A Suitable Boy. Many more were recently
seduced by award winning movies such as
Slumdog Millionaire and The Life of Pi.
Then there are those India-philes who also
like to experience India as seen through the
eyes of foreign authors.
Some men cut their teeth as cub scouts
on Rudyard Kiplings tales of Mowgli, the
boy raised by wolves in an Indian Jungle
(which have since been dumbed down
by the Disney corporation in the Jungle
Book animated movies). Some lived in
an age when teachers still read stories to
their charges and were enthralled with
the exploits of Kiplings Rikki Tickie Tavi,
the snake killing mongoose, or Toomai of
the Elephants. These kids probably became
the juvenile India-philes wishing that they
were just a little bit like Kim and desperate
to traverse the plains, boat the Ganges, ride
into the hill stations and adventure in the
Himalayan peaks. A lot of them did this in
their young adulthoods: trekking Nepal,
house boating in Kashmir, ashram-ing with
gurus, bathing in holy rivers and becoming
temporary Hindus while romance and
idealism still ran rampant in their veins.
Some India-philes obsess on the stories
that have their roots embedded in the British
Imperial Raj, imagining themselves as
sahibs and memsahibs, who were attended
by obsequious servants called something

like Gunga Din. For them the sprawling
adventure-cum-romance novels of M
M Kaye were addictive, particularly the
first, The Far Pavilions, which is hailed as a
masterpiece of storytelling and follows the
19th century exploits of an officer of the Raj
who, a bit like Kim is brought up as a Hindu
and who is rescued and made British again.
As an officer he falls in love with a Mogul
princess and the intrigues begin.
But it wasnt all pro British Empire, and
paternalistic attitudes towards India and its
people. The follies of Empire are powerfully
dealt with in J G Farrells Empire Trilogy,
which were set in different parts of the
Empire on which the sun never set. The
novel about the British in India during the
Great Mutiny of 1857, The Siege of Krishnapur,
was another Booker Prize winner. Its about
the brutal and blundering attitudes of the
British towards the indigenous population
favorite is the third, Towers of Silence, which

deals with the decline of British influence
up to the end of World War II.
A follow up is Scotts Booker prize
winning novel, Staying On, which deals
with those Brits who, after a lifetime
in India, couldnt face the prospect of
returning to a dreary post-war England, or
who just couldnt afford to, and who settled
for tenuous old age in a hill station, based
on colonial Mussoorie or Darjeeling.
All of Scotts Indian works have been
adapted into outstanding TV series.
Elitism
The arrogant superiorities of the Raj in
the lead up to Indian Independence were
elegantly portrayed in E M Forsters, A
Passage to India, which is always included
in the top 100 of the all time best English
language novel compilations. The book,
through the tale of an alleged rape of an
English woman by an Indian in the 1920s,
emphasizes the racial tensions and prejudices
between Indians and British colonialists in the
early 20th century. Its also a brilliant movie.
Paul Scotts Raj Quartet novels are in
the same vein. The first in the series, The
Jewel in the Crown, almost rewrites Forsters
novel and the others follow on until India
is partitioned and the British leave with
their tails between their legs. My particular
For more information on Bookworm go to

bookwormhanoi.com. Besides their original
store on Chau Long, Bookworm have a second,
smaller shop in Nghi Tam Village in the West
Lake area. Located behind the Sheraton and in
the same alley as VilaTom Coffee, it can be found
at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam, Tay Ho
LA SALSA
Thach, Dong Da
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
3718 5656
8am to 11pm
KITCHEN
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE

3719 2679
hungskitchen@gmail.com
7am to 9pm
Set inside a newly renovated
house with a large courtyard,
Kitchen is a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check
out the breakfast burrito), the
creatively titled sandwiches and
the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm)
and an innovative smattering of
healthy, smoothie-style drinks.
R&R TAVERN
RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6295 8215
Now on its third location, this
watering hole still lives up to
its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter,
and of course, some quality live
rock music. Its upstairs area
is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly
shows and events, while the
downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing
touch to the friendly community
environment.
RASA SINGAPURA
SINGAPORE PERANAKAN CUISINE

185 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3715 2992
rasasingapura-hanoi.com
5pm to midnight
This Singapore Peranakan Restaurant serves up authentic,
Straits fusion fare emanating
from Singapore, Malacca and
Penang. Boasting the mouthwatering nasi lemak as its signature
dish, all the fare here is homecooked by the owner / partner
who spent five years living and
studying in Singapore. This is
tasty, home-cooked, well-priced
fare in a pleasant but tranquil
setting.
SAINT HONORE
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
3933 2355
sainthonore.com.vn
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this bakery
and French-style
bistro is best visited in the
morning when that Gallic, freshcooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as
you walk through the door. The
downstairs space is split into the
bakery on one side with a small
non-smoking dining space on the
other. The upstairs lounge area
has standard tables as well as
sofa seating. Simple French
and international fare is served
at meal times. Has additional
venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba
Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc
THBC SPANISH TAPAS BAR

44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
Tuesday to Sunday 8am to
9.30pm. Closed Monday
Spanish fare is available elsewhere in town, but this is the only
place where it is authentic. Has
a great selection of sandwiches,
tapas and Mediterranean salads. To top off the menu are a
range of drinks including enormous gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and Catalan-style
hot chocolate.
The Pie Shop
TAKEAWAY PIES
2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena
Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 1507
thepieshophanoi@gmail.com
Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style
savoury pies and rolls. Available
in three convenient sizes (mini,
regular and large). Enjoy them
hot as a takeaway, or frozen to
keep for later.
Expat Servies
Maid in Vietnam
HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES
Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 3112
maidinvietnam.com
Offering a licensed hire service
for trained domestic and office
housemaids, cooks and nannies.
Courses include health checks,
housekeeping, safety, basic 1st
Aid, courses for external maids
and household management for
Vietnamese wives of foreigners.
Fitness & Yoga

ELITE FITNESS
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

3718 6281
elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment,
separate cardio and spinning
areas and an indoor swimming
pool with a retractable roof. The
spacious studios and natural
light make it a welcoming place
to squeeze in a work out, but be
prepared to pay. This place is top
of the range.
HANOI CLUB
COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823
8115
thehanoiclub.com
VIETCLIMB
CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel:

0914 143185
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find,
VietClimb is a French-owned,
200-meter climbing gym with
state-of-the-art courses. There
are 100 different climbing routes
within the gym that are changed
every few months. They offer
clinics, classes and childrens
events. Membership and group
rates are available, but be sure
to check out the three-month
pass.

ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923
0253
An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety
of levels and styles, including
prenatal and postnatal classes,
restorative yoga, pilates and tai
chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates
mats, books, clothes, soaps,
Himalayan products and other
essential yoga equipment.
Groceries, Liquor & Kitchen Products
ANNAM GOURMET
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 4487
FIVIMART
SUPERMARKET
Second Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1791
KITCHEN ART
KITCHENWARE
6680 2770
kitchenart.vn
Kitchen Art is a little haven for
all foodies, cooks and bakers
to grow their love and passion
for cooking and baking. Come to
Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients
to cook like a chef, take part in
regular demonstrations and
workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying
the peaceful West Lake view.
L's Place
GROCERY SHOP
3719 9911
NATURALLY VIETNAM
ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130
naturallyvietnam.com
Offers food and beverage
produced in Vietnam with full
traceability and strict food
safety controls. Meat, egg, milk,
fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit
juices, liquors, coffee, water,
ice cream. Also, every Saturday
from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the
team convert the store yard into
the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a
cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for
expats and Vietnamese.
PUNTO ITALIA
COFFEE MACHINES
6258 3510
puntoitalia.asia
Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace
or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their
own brand coffee in capsules,
ready ground or as the original
roasted mix of beans.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04)
3719 8337
THE OASIS
ITALIAN DELI
3719 1196
A great place to get all kinds of
imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads
and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of
fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a
fantastic deli and cheese case.
Free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3718 3701
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams ultimate premium wine importer,
distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest
wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The
portfolio mixes the best of both
old and new world wines.
Medical & Dental

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

3934 0666
Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic also
known for its quality emergency
services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of
services from standard GP-style
check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist
care.
One Dental Clinic
DENTISTS
8 Quang An, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 6168
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL

CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555
westcoastinternational.com
The Westcoast International
Dental Clinic is composed of
dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental
services throughout Vietnam.
The clinic provides the highest
quality technology, comfort and
after-service care to patients.
hanoi
The Alchemist
Motorbike Zen
have to admit that its been a while

since I read, Zen and the Art of
Motorcycle Maintenance. To be honest I
dont recall finishing it but I do recall
being confused. Was I confused because I
didnt know much about motorcycles or
did the book cross my path too early on
my journey to zendom? It was probably
a combination of both.
Using the approach to motorcycle
maintenance as a metaphor on how to
approach life, the author, Robert Pirsig,
surmises that it is our perspective that
determines how we experience life. Filled
with philosophical tidbits, the books
message is as pertinent now as ever.
Pirsig outlines what he views as two
opposing approaches to life, classical
and romantic. The classical person
searches for details and logic, and has an
analytical approach to life. The romantic
seeks a holistic viewpoint and, as the
name suggests, has a romantic approach
to life. The advice that Prisig and many
other New Age or spiritual teachers have
is to find the middle ground between the
By Karen Gay
www.pressfoto.com
two and thus achieve an inner peace of

mind.
Yin and Yang

There are several comparisons one
may draw from the classical/romantic
characteristics described by Pirsig. Right
brain versus left brain, for example; Yin
and Yang; and to venture further, the
body and the soul as represented in the
symbol of the Ouroboros. Just as none
of these can exist one without the other,
Pirsig determines that we cannot sacrifice
the classical for the romantic and vice
versa, and stresses the importance of
bringing the two into harmony. I see this
as the quintessential pursuit of balance in
all that we do.
Yet with the advancement of
technology, many of us tend to spend
more time in an analytical state of
mind. The challenge, more than ever, is
to access the creative, intuitive mind.
Unplugging from our devices and
tapping into our creative mind allows
new perspectives to be cultivated. From
this expanded viewpoint comes a greater

opportunity to find inner peace and along
with it, a higher state of being.
Pay Attention
Pay continual attention, suggests
Pirsig. I suppose it is in this way he hopes
we spiritualise everyday life, by being
in the moment, appreciating the now.
Through the observance of the present
moment we come to the mindful practice
of living, a concept on which, I am sure,
Pirsig and Thich Nhat Hanh, the revered
Zen monk, would see eye to eye.
Pirsig suggests that it is our attitude
towards life that determines how we
approach it. As Einstein says, There are
only two ways to live your life. One is as
though nothing is a miracle. The other is
as though everything is a miracle.
Pay attention to the miracles in life.
Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is
a holistic health practitioner practicing in
Hanoi. For information on the types of services
provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com
hanoi
Reservations recommended.
ba dinh
MING PALACE
Bars & Nightclubs / Bookshops / Cafes / Clubs & Societies / Cooking Classes / Eat /
Fitness & Yoga / Hairdressers & Salons / Medical & Dental
Bars & Nightclubs

BARBETTA
ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3734 9134
ETE BAR
FRENCH LOUNGE
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 751331
10am to midnight
A favourite among those who
roam further west of the
city centre, this multi-storey
restobar has been going
strong for more than two
years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar
guarding exactly 50 different
cocktails. For many the Ete
burger is right on the mark
as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. Its always
crowded especially during the weekends. Amiable
staff, pleasant vibes.
SUMMIT LOUNGE
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3823 8888 ext. 5314
4pm to Midnight Sunday to
Wednesday, 4pm to 2am
Thursday to Saturday
Bookshops
BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi
Cafes
CAF GOETHE
ARTS CAF
56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 3734 7395
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 2247 0602
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CHAIN
28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh
(Next to the Flag Tower) Tel:
(04) 3823 3339
7am to 11pm
MANZI
ARTS CAF & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
A stunningly designed contemporary caf and events
space that screams out the
words modern art. Housed
in a converted colonial-era
villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows
make up the mix here. Great
cuisine, too.
Clubs & Societies

GOETHE INSTITUT
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh
Tel: (04) 3734 2251
goethe.de/hanoi
Cooking Classes
HANOI COOKING CENTRE
COOKING CENTRE
(04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a
school, retail outlet and caf,
where you can find classes
on not just Vietnamese
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3771 6372
10am to midnight
inh T
in H o n g
Hng
Bi
Q u n
Phng
Nguyn
Tri Ph
ng
B Tr
i u
Ho
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04)

3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
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ing an international version

of the mighty curry they
even sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the
northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza,
korma and the more Goan
vindaloo taking centre stage.
Also has a good range of
breads and tandoor-cooked
kebabs.
n
Y
BA DINH
DISTRICT
Trn Nhn Tng
cooking, but international

cuisine, held in a beautiful
setting. They also offer culinary tours.
Eat
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts
of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all
for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar
and an a la carte menu, with
a creative selection of fruit
caipirinhas on hand to wash
it all down. The prices arent
for anyone on a budget, but
the amount and quality of
meat is more than worth
cost.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3716 2959
10am to 10.30pm
Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history
that screams empathy make
this eatery one of the most
popular Indians in town. Sell-
HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT

SONG THU
(04) 3942 4448
hoasuaschool.com
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
MATCHBOX
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3734 3098
11am to 11pm
MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE
PAN-CHINESE
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
Elegant and luxurious, May
Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.
Showcasing a selection of
authentic Chinese culinary
delights and Yum Cha at its
finest, with seven private
dining rooms this is a place
to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim
sum menus and set menus.
PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
A fine dining destination at
the Sofitel Plaza serving
Cantonese and pan-Chinese
cuisine in a sleek modern
setting with private dining
rooms. With more than 80
dim sum selections available
along with Chinese entrees,
Mings is an ideal eatery for
those hungry for higher end
Chinese fare.

THE BISTRO
FRENCH FLAIR
2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3726 4782
thebistro.com.vn
7.30am to 9pm
A modern eatery offering
western cuisine with shades
of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink
and food deals and a warm
indoor atmosphere you
know, just how the French
do it.
Fitness & Yoga

N SHAPE FITNESS
MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi
Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn
Hairdressers & Salons

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
Medical & Dental

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE
MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
On the little street directly
below Kim Ma, with all sorts
of specialists including OB/
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT.
A Medium-sized practice
with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they
are used to treating expats.
Also a 24-hour emergency
service.
Do you think you should be

listed on these pages? If so,
simply email us on
listings@wordvietnam.com
and well see what we can
do. We cant promise but
well try our best
hanoi
The Therapist
www.pressfoto.com
This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor,
answers the issue of relationships affected by a time limit.
Dear Douglas,
Im 29 and Ive been dating a guy for the
past four months whose contract is up in
July, when he will move back to Canada,
where he is from. We have agreed to keep
the relationship focused on the present. I am
actually surprised at how much I like him
and how good it feels to have a boyfriend
after two-and-a-half years of being single.
I thought it has been going well until
Valentines Day. I made him a special dinner,
gave him a small gift and wrote him a card
which shared my feelings for him. He, on
the other hand, didnt do a thing. Then, as
a response to my disappointment, he told
me that it was destined to be a temporary
relationship and that I shouldnt get too
attached. I felt like I couldnt explain myself
and it got so awkward I asked him to
leave. My feelings are hurt and my head
is spinning. I like this guy, but somehow
I expected something different. I am so
confused. What should I do now?
Mazzy (not my real name)
Dear Mazzy,
I suspect if you asked 10 people what you
should do, you would get several different
answers. No one can answer that question

for you. I feel like your situation and
question are quite relevant for many people
who live abroad or date someone who is
from another place and plan to stay for a
while. When people know that there is an
end date to the time they will be somewhere
it creates a different dynamic in the way
that they create relationships. Without
foreseeing an endpoint, a person is likely
to assume that finding a partner to be a
good match, with emotional connection and
compatibility, will have implications on their
future together.
Relationships tend to develop towards
(or away from) a continued desire to be
together. Knowledge and understanding,
trust and connection, mutuality and
shared decision-making are part of what
determines how we are relating to one
another. The time people have together
helps them to answer a number of good
questions. Are we a good match? Do I
continue to desire this relationship? Is our
relationship sustainable? For many people
this is an underlying assumption and helps
them determine how open and trusting they
can be.
So what is the process when we enter

a relationship that we believe will be for
now and have no sustainable future? One
way is to become involved in the same way
that one would as if the relationship wont
end using denial for as long as possible
and then be willing to deal with the
emotional pain of losing someone you have
become close to. Another way is to restrict
the ways in which one allows oneself
to feel close, or to open up to another.
It is an agreement to care, but not too
much. It is predicated on the assumption
that we can control the way we feel and
can manage emotional connection, and
possibly intimacy. For now has its upside.
It allows us to keep living in the present
and experiencing life as we live it. But, the
danger is that for now can become a way
to think and function and we lose a deeper
sense of who we are and how to have what
we want.
The choice is yours. Good luck!
Douglas
Do you have a question you would like
Douglass help with? You can email him at
douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details
will not be printed
hanoi
(04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
elsewhere
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
Bars & Clubs / Cafes / Eat / Medical & Dental / Recreation
Bars & Clubs

CAMA ATK
MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 01262 054970
Wednesday to Saturday,
6pm to midnight
With well-poured drinks, a
foosball table, no smoking
and a midnight closing time,
CAMA ATK knows exactly
what it wants to be and
thats refreshing. The space
is a part time venue for
smaller acts and DJs. The
venue is hip, comfortable
and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable
place to pull up a stool and
take pulls in a relaxed haven.
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS
CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088
VUVUZELA
MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba
Trung
Cafes
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai
Ba Trung
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
Eat
A LA FOLIE...!
FRENCH
63 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3976 1667
alafolie63@gmail.com
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm.
Closed Monday
A cozy recently opened
space to taste fine French
food and excellent wines
without draining your wallet. Using high quality fresh

ingredients, the cuisine is
simple including anything
from a traditional omelette
or steak tartare-frites to coq
au vin or foie gras. Has two
floors and a patio.
ASAHI SUSHI
SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn
CAF 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342
7.30am to 9.30pm
French Grill
JW Marriott, 8 Do Duc Duc,
Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04)
3833 5588
marriott.com / facebook.
com/frenchgrill
Simplistic yet contemporary
design creates the ambience at this top-end, classy
restaurant in the JW Marriott. Serves up Vietnamese
cuisine, classic French fare
and a range of items off the
grill. A great wine selection
and private dining options
make up the elegant mix.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3796 2647
10am to midnight
166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba

Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386
11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to
10.30pm, closed Sunday
LA VERTICALE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3944 6317
verticale-hanoi.com
11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to
9.15pm
Situated in an art-deco villa
that was once owned by
a Vietnamese mandarin,
this establishment is now
owned and run by perhaps
the most famous French chef
in the country. With modestly
priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on
the dishes, which primarily
come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up
market establishment lures
in its high class customers
with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.
POTS N PANS
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204

potsnpans.vn
11.30am to late
Brought to you by a group of
former disadvantaged youth
from Hanois own KOTO, this
unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends
the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like
profiteroles with green tea
and caf fillings, a private
chefs table with a kitchen
view, and an extensive wine
list combined with modern
formal styling bring a unique
experience to Hanoi.
WILD LOTUS
CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE

55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342
Medical & Dental

FRENCH HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel:
Recreation
KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL
SWIMMING POOL
Landmark 72 Tower, Pham
Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)
3772 3801
landmark72.com
ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK
ICE SKATING
Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen
Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936
469799
royalcity.com.vn
X-FACTORY LASER TAG
LASER TAG
77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai
Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106
x-factory-vn.com

simply email us on
well try our best
Electronics
A Dong Photo Co
128 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732
Alpha Laptop
95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 4418
Fuong May Anh

5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3213 1568
Nguyen Cau
1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
DK Computer
29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel:
3772 4772
Hi-Tech USA
Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261
Pico Plaza
Kiem
Professional Computer
Care and IT Services
No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983
011081
Vietsad
34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 8771
Swimming Pools
Army Hotel
33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896
Four Seasons
14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong
Da. Tel: 3537 6250
Hanoi Club
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8115
www.hanoi-club.com
Horison Fitness Center

KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7.00am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
KY Y
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh

Tel: 3733 0808
Melia Hotel
Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343
Olympia
4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049
Sao Mai
10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 3161
Sofitel Plaza Fitness

Center
1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8888
Than Nhan
Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung,
(Inside the park)
Thang Loi Hotel

200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
JAPANESE RICE EATERY
hanoi
Medical Buff
Five Tips to Improve Your Health
By Dr. Brian McNaull
www.pressfoto.com
t is the beginning of a New (Lunar)

Year, which means whether warranted
or not we are all more aware of our
health and fitness. Gyms and sports
shops are the first to capitalize on this
shared anxiety, but if you can (briskly)
walk past the 10 percent off a lifetime
membership or the pair of trainers that
can tell you how far you need to run
to burn off the doughnut youve just
scoffed, there are some alternatives to
improve your health.
Here are five tips to get you started.
break, dont push yourself too hard at first.

Your body is a great natural thermometer,
try to understand what it is telling you, it
will be the first to shout out if it is being
over-exerted.
1) Set attainable goals.
4) Turn off your phone, tablet or

laptop. While staying active is beneficial,
Whatever you
are doing, be it exercise or reducing your
intake of fatty foods, you are more likely to
stick to your regime with small reachable
steps. Keep a record of your accomplishments so you can see your progress, which
in turn will motivate you even more. But
make sure whatever you do, you set goals.
They just need to be realistic.
2) Listen to your body.
If exercise is
new to you or you are returning after a long
3) Listen to the law.
Well, specifically,
try and follow the ban on smoking in public places that was introduced in Vietnam
last year. If you can cut out the sneaky
cigarette in the toilet cubicle at work it is
one step closer to not needing the cigarette
before and after bed.
so is rest. Make room for downtime. You

might tell yourself that checking your
emails while on the sofa means your body
is resting. However your head needs time
off, too. An hour off in the evening will
help you unwind, but dont stop there.
A good nights sleep means no bleeping
interference. Switch off. Stop the 3G and
the auto-sync working. Put your phone on
silent. You need a break.
5) Dont be afraid to share! You

will be surprised by how many of us feel
the same way about our bodies and health.
Talk to friends and family, they might have
the same goals and the journey is much
easier if you have support. If you are not
comfortable speaking to people close to
you, consider consulting a professional
counselor. Dont rely on Google, which can
only inflame anxiety.
Good luck for a healthier new year.
Receive more tips for improving your
health by attending the Health for Life
event hosted by Family Medical Practice
and California Fitness and Yoga at the
Royal City Centuryon Club (L2 Tower
R3, Royal City, Hanoi) on Sat Mar. 29 from
2pm to 6pm. Attend to receive healthy
benefits, gift bags and a chance to win in
our prize draw.
Family Medical Practice is located in
Vietnams major cities. For information or
assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08)
3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511)
3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively, click on
vietnammedicalpractice.com
hanoi
business
Business Groups / Corporate Services / Insurance / International Schools / Language Schools /

Management Training / Market Research / Relocation & tracking agents / Serviced Apartments
Business Groups
keychains, card holders and

menu covers.
ICHAM
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1
Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2229
icham.org
The Chamber has the main
purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and
to assist economic agents,
as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic
relations and cooperation
among entrepreneurs of
the various countries. The
Chamber will not engage in
commercial activities with
the aim of producing profits.
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2229
ccifv.org
A business group with over
240 members that supports the French business
community in Vietnam by
listening to their members
needs and expectations. Also
promotes Vietnam to French
companies and helps them in
developing their businesses
here.
EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
A confederate organisation
with strong ties to national
business associations in its
member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support
for the business interests of
European Union members in
Vietnam.
SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM

Business Center, Ground
Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B
Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: (04)
4772 0833
sbav-hanoi.org
Corporate Services
ENDO
79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3783 2085
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
Insurance
AIG
Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49
Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3936 1455
aig.com.vn
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel
Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3936 5370
Emergency: 0903 732365
insuranceinvietnam.com
Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal
lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has
been operational in Vietnam
since 1994 and offers free
advice and comparative
quotes.
International Schools
BRITISH VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BVIS)
H3-H4, Hoa Lan, Vincom
Village, Long Bien, Tel: (04)
3946 0435
bvisvietnam.com
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
International brand, Concordia, has highly performing
schools in both Hong Kong
and Shanghai at the top tier
of the educational system.
All instructors and teachers
are native English speakers
and admission applications
are accepted throughout
the year.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available for
students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is
one of the few private, international education options
in the capital. The institution
offers Cambridge IGCSE and
IB Diploma for students at
the secondary level. Located
near the Japanese Embassy.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF
VIETNAM
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai
Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183

www.isvietnam.org
The International School of
Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to
Grade 12 school serving the
international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts
students of any nationality
aged 3 and up. ISV offers
an international education
experience. Highly qualified
and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century
campus with the latest in
educational technology
plus excellent resources
for learning. Class sizes are
small.
Foundation Programme. A
strong curriculum combines
the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and
Vietnamese curricula, all
taught by qualified teachers.
Runs various co-curricula
activities and prepares
students for internationally
recognised qualifications:
iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE &
AS/A Level, GAC
UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (UNIS)
Ciputra International Village,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551
unishanoi.org
Unit 9 10, Shophouse

CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743
0360
3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung,
7243
C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri
New Urban, Tu Liem District,
Tel: +84 4 3794 0209
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with
a foreign teacher leading the
class with the assistance of a
Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student
ratio. KinderWorld provides
pre school education for
children from 18 months to
below 6 years.
QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF

HANOI
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
hanoi.qsi.org
With nearly four decades of
experience in international
education, QSI International
School of Hanoi is next in the
long line of quality schools
that have been established
by the Quality Schools International. The institution
specialises in instructing
pre-school and lower elementary age students.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (SIS)
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic
Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block
C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel:
3795 1036
www,kinderworld.net/sis
SIS provides international
education for students from
Primary up to University
Hanoi Resco Building, 521

Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3726 1460
rmit.edu.vn
A leading international provider of skills training and
professional staff development, RMIT offers both short
and long-term courses,
customised courses, and
can provide for either on or
off-campus clients. Known
for its Business MBA which
is open to both Vietnamese
and overseas students.
Suite 821, Vietnam Trade

Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong,
0805
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving,
pet transportation, relocation services including home
search, orientation, cultural
training, immigration services and records management. For more information
email info@santaferelo.
com.vn.
Market Research
Serviced Apartments
CIMIGO
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN
RMIT
Language Schools
APOLLO
67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3943 2051
Apollo.edu.vn
Established in 1994, Apollo
offers high-quality and costeffective English language
classes including general
English, English for teens,
English for business communication and a pronunciation
clinic. One of the countrys
leading language centres.
BRITISH COUNCIL
20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3728 1922
britishcouncil.org
The cultural arm of the British governments presence
in Vietnam, the BC offers a
variety of English language
courses business writing, corporate training and
general English in a large
learning centre close to West
Lake.
LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM

62 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3927 3399
languagelink.edu.vn
With four schools around
Hanoi, Language Link runs
international English language courses endorsed by
Cambridge University. One of
the top language centres in
the capital.
Management Training
G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES
HKC Building, Suite 701, 285
Doi Can, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3762 3805
ghmsglobal.com
142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel:

(04) 3518 6696
vietnam@cimigo.com
cimigolive.com
Relocation & tracking agents

ALLIED PICKFORDS
Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan
Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The international home
moving company helps
make the burden of moving
a lot easier. As the largest
home moving company in
the world, Allied Pickfords
moves over 1,000 families
in over 175 countries every
day. Available with a full
range of services domestic moves, office moves and
storage whether you are
moving within Vietnam or
across the world.
ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO

Inland Customs Deport Area
(ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh,
Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882
asiantigergroup.com
Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of
moving households without
disruption ti family life. They
also offer pre-move advice
regarding customs and
shipping.
ATLANTA RESIDENCES
49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 0912 239085
atlanta.com.vn
Atlanta Residences fully
serviced apartments have
been created to provide a
space where you can feel
at home. Within walking
distance from Hanois Opera
House and Hoan Kiem Lake,
this building offers a panel of
51 spacious apartments for
you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer
the luxury of a hotel mixed
with the peaceful comfort
and privacy of your home,
under one roof of course.
FRASER SUITES
(04) 3719 8877
hanoi.frasershospitality.
com
SEDONA SUITES
No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 0888
sedonahotels.com.sg
SOMERSET GRAND HANOI

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3934 2342
somerset.com
Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive
facilities. 185 fully furnished
apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central
location.
JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS

6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is currently a leader in
the field. Has offices in both
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

simply email us on
well try our best
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES
hanoi
Student Eye
The Field Trip
n a couple of weeks, well be sitting

through the tortuous bus ride to a
miserable-yet-still-exciting hotel in Ba
Be, or on the bunk bed train to Sapa. If
were lucky, well even be flying to Hue
and Hoi An, to tailor our own clothes and
enjoy a place few of us have seen.
We will have spent the previous night
struggling to fall asleep, after checking
our luggage again and again, ticking
through the checklist, looking for the
snacks buried amongst the clothes. We
will have been extra careful not to catch a
cold, because its the worst time to be sick
the worst time to get in any trouble.
Its the night before the field trip.
Like all the other things they teach
at school, field trips are also meant to
have an educational value. When we
visit museums, were given questions to
answer or short essays to write about the
trip, sat down in a courtyard and told to
sketch the old architecture we came to
see. And then there are those field trip
journals, which have to be filled up every
evening with reflections on the days
experience.
Despite the good intentions of our
teachers, not many of us put much effort
into these attempts to impose meaning.
We race through the exercises, filling up
the spaces, jotting down brief answers
just to be done with them. Were too
excited to be studying, and what we
really wait for the highlight of these
field trips are those few hours of free
time that were given, the dark quiet
hours when our lights are supposed to
be out.
Finding True Experience

For teens these days, whose lives are
dependent on laptops and smart phones,
field trips allow us to experience things
not with our phone cameras or through
Facebook, but through our own eyes,
skin and nose. They teach us how to have
real fun.
To many teens, sitting around a
campfire with a guitar, having a mud
fight in a rice field or whispering to a
friend on a nearby bed seems unusual,
strange even. But once we let go of
these mechanical habits, we become
creative with our play: making a boysonly nightclub by jumping to music
in the dark, waving our flashlights
and pretending theyre disco lights. Or
after lights-out, knocking on the walls,
finding joy in merely communicating our
www.pressfoto.com
existence to the other side.

Field trips give us a chance to realise
that off-pitch singing filled with giggles
is sometimes better than our iPods, scary
stories around a campfire sometimes
better than a movie, a treasure hunt
sometimes better than Grand Theft Auto.
Although the meaning they get may be

completely different from that which
the teachers and school staff expect,
to students, field trips are educational.
They arent simply trips, but lessons as
valuable as mathematics or history, if not
more so. Tae Jun Park
Ho Chi Minh City

business buff // coffee cup // top eats // body and temple // medical buff //
a world of good // food promos
Photo by yves schiepek
HCMC
business
Accounting & Auditing / Advertising & Mktg / Business Consulting / Business Groups / Corporate Gifts & Services /
Event Management / Expat Services / Housing & Real Estate / Insurance / Interior Design / Investment & Finance /
Language Schools / Legal Services / Management Training / Market Research / Photography Services / Public Relations /
Recruitment & HR / Relocation Agents / Serviced Apartments
Accounting & Auditing
GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS
4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon
Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 0220
globaleye.com
PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS
Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796
pwc.com
Advertising & Mktg

BBDO VIETNAM
74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 6662
bbdoasia.com
COWAN STRATEGIC BRAND

DESIGN
16th Floor, Bitexco Office
Tower, 1925 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064
cowandesign.com
DENTSU VIETNAM

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point
Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
0938 220 255
vivianwcooper@gmail.com
TMF GROUP
Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon
Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910
2262
Tmg-group.com
AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le

Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005
Dentsu.com.vn
GREY GROUP
404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)
3929 1450
grey.com/vietnam
INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3740 6388
industrialdesignasia.com
MARKETEERS VIETNAM
FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh
Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933
3493
marketeersvietnam.com
OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower,
7274, Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821
9529
ogilvy.com
PHIBIOUS
7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia
Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933
3377
phibious.com
An independent, creative
led communications company helps brands connect
and grow across Southeast
Asia. Clients include The
CocaCola Company, Asia
Pacific Breweries, Piaggio
and UPI.
PURPLE ASIA
9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050
purpleasia.com
RED | BRAND BUILDERS
Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45
Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820

0169
red.vn
Long-established branding
consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team
creates and shapes unique
marketing strategies that
add impact to international
and local brands from Vietnam to Australia.
RIVER ORCHID
10th Floor HDTC Building,
36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 2538
riverorchid.com
SAATCHI & SAATCHI

26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08)
3824 1207
saatchi.com
Ranked among the top 100
global advertising agencies,
S&S has worked with over
half of the 50 bestknown
brands in the world, providing advertisement planning,
direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic
design.
TBWA\VIETNAM
OGY SERVICES
4th Floor, Saigon Finance

Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315
tbwa.com.vn
4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 7305 0905
prism.com.vn
Business Consulting
BDG VIETNAM
11th Floor, Capital Place, 6
Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 7858
Bdg-vietnam.com
ROUSE
6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58
Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 6770
iprights.com
STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM
CONCETTI
161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3911 0965
starcorpvn.com
33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3911 1481
Concetti.vn
38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:

0904 410884
GRANT THORNTON
STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

TRACTUS ASIA LTD
28th Floor, Saigon Trade

Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100
Gt.com.vn
164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel:

(08) 6291 2205
tractus-asia.com
INSPIRED IMAGE
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen

Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402
31st Floor, Saigon Trade
Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang,
Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu

Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
0916 352573
Inspiredimage.co.uk
PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOL-
XAGE CONSULTANCY
Business Groups
AMCHAM
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
3562.
amchamvietnam.com
An independent association of American and
international businesses, the objective of the
American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam
is to promote trade and investment between
the United States and Vietnam.
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach
Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
auschamvn.org
A licensed foreign business group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating
in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical
breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and
charity events.
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM

25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430
bbgv.org
GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL
Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3824 3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective
network of business associates together and
to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.
NORDCHAM
17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5416 0922
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM

40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3518 0045
pbgvn.com
SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le
Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6996
swissvietnam.com
Corporate Gifts & Services

AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD
14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
8364
ambrij.com
ENDO
406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6292
2045
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses,
travel agencies and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware from polos and
hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu
covers.
Event Management
EVECOO
Tel: 0988 297990
evecoo.vn
Housing & Real Estate
ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD

268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh, Tel: (08)
6299 0880
CBRE
THE CATERERS
12th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc

Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125
cbre.com
46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901

thecaterersvietnam.com.vn
Offers everything from canaps and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and
wedding catering. Combines excellent food,
event management and exclusive venues to
make any kind of event a success.
Expat Services
CHUMS HOUSE
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237
HAPPY HOUSE
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659

419916
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08)

2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
CANCHAM
vn for info.
63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6048

galaroyale.com.vn
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around the world,
Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services
including home search, orientation, cultural
training, immigration services and records
management. Email info@santaferelo.com.
JONES LANG LASALLE

26th Foor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc
Thang Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968
joneslanglasalle.com.vn
Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a professional services and investment management
firm offering specialized real estate services
to clients seeking increased value by owning,
occupying and investing in real estate. As a
truly global firm, they work and collaborate
closely with their colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-inclass services, people, and systems to their
clients in Vietnam.
Their offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi
offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing,
Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory,
Research and Consulting, Investment Sales
and Acquisitions, Residential Agency,
Industrial Agency, Project and Development
Services, Property Asset Management
Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy
Services, Integrated Facilities Management.
HCMC
Business Buff
The Science of Marriage
ocial scientists have been

studying marriage and marriage
happiness for over a hundred
years. It is often forgotten that
the idea of marriage for anything but
economic or political reasons is still
relatively new in the world, and still
rare in many places, particularly in
developing nations.
So if youre thinking of popping the
question, read on and get the more
interesting research findings regarding
marriage and how it affects our happiness.
The Happy Marriage

Based on one 20-year study from the UK,
marriage initially leads to a two-year boost
in happiness after which time the couples
happiness levels return to what they were
prior to the engagement. The happiest
people in their marriages tend to have been
(a) married less than five years (b) Do not
have children (c) Have college degrees and
(d) the husband is employed.
A happy marriage is like having an

additional US$105,000 (VND2.2 billion)
a year in income in terms of similar life
satisfaction.
Having a child can greatly affect a
marriage, and the research shows that
after baby number one arrives, 67 percent
of couples experience a drop in marriage
satisfaction. This unhappiness tends to peak
around pre-school age and then happiness
tends to increase as the youngest child
grows up.
One common thread in the happiest
couples are those that share new
experiences together such as dining at new
restaurants, travelling, cooking or listening
to live music.
In the bedroom, couples who share
intimacy two to three times a week are the
happiest, while people are 55 percent more
likely to be happy with intimacy twice a
week and 44 percent once a week.
The most important factor to satisfaction
in a marriage ranked higher than sex,
By Shane Dillon
romance and passion. It is the idea that

there is a true feeling of friendship with
their partners. In one study, this was crucial
in over 70 percent of satisfied couples.
And finally couples that experience a
ratio of 5:1 positive interactions to negative
ones are the happiest. While for those
couples that eventually end in divorce,
the ratio falls to 0.8:1. Happy couples also
report spending on average five hours a
week together talking and sharing each
others company. Also couples who talk
about previous happy experiences together
tend to maintain happiness in their
relationship longer.
Many of these things may be something
that husbands and wives know intuitively,
but now theres science to back up their
hunches.
Shane is happily married with one child
and studies economics. He can be contacted at
shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn
HCMC
Cinemas
Showcasing the latest
Hollywood blockbusters
and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as
Megastar Media, Lotte
and Galaxy Cinema offer
the most up-to-date and
modern cinema-going
experiences in Saigon.
For those partial to more
esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and
Idecaf carry little known
Vietnamese and European
efforts.
Cinebox
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10
Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
Lotte Cinema
13th Floor, Diamond Plaza,
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 38227897
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469
Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7
Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com
Galaxy Cinema
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Tel: (08) 3920 6688
116 Nguyen Du, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 5235
246 Nguyen Hong Dao,
Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1
Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn
Megastar Cinema
Level 5, Crescent Mall,
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My
Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5412 2222
Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A
Truong Son, Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 6297 1981
Level 5, Parkson Paragon,
3 Nguyen Luong Bang,
Phu My Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5416 0088
megastar.vn
COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM

Bitexco Office Building, 7th
Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665
colliersmn.com/vietnam
CREATION
International Plaza Building,
Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu
Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553
CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom
Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 7968
cushmanwakefield.vn
EASY SAIGON
Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is
a useful real estate website
helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.
Enquiries via their website
are welcome.
KNIGHT FRANK
Suite A, level 7, VTP Office
Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6777
knightfrank.com.vn
Founded in 1896, Knight
Frank has grown to become
the worlds largest privately
owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial,
residential and residential
development services.
NAMHOUSE CORPORATION
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental
properties, constructions
and interior decoration,
especially in District 2. Supports professional services
and aftersales.
SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor,
81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 9205
savills.com.vn
Savills Vietnam is a leading
property service provider
in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory
services, residential sales,

commercial leasing, asset
management, retail advisory, valuation, investment
advisory and other services.
BLUE CROSS VIETNAM

SNAP
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Caf in District 2, Snap offers a web
based real estate search
service with information on
rental properties all around
the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse
to wading into the internet
depths for their needs.
SOTHEBYS INTERNATIONAL
REALTY
Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 2000
sothebysrealty.com.vn
THE NEST
369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc
Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901
thenest-vietnam.com
Wellknown property
search and real estate
agency with a useful website
listing properties available
for rent and sale, orientated
towards expats. Website is in
English, French and Spanish.
Insurance
BAOVIET INSURANCE
49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661
baoviet.com.vn
IF CONSULTING
IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A
Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 7362
insuranceinvietnam.com
Independent advisors that
represent top reputable
medical insurers provide
you with the best suitable
medical cover for individual,
family or company needs.
8th Floor, River View Tower,

7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08)
3821 9908
inquiry@bluecross.com.vn
www.bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part
of the Pacific Cross group
of companies with over 60
years experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.
Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable
service means they are the
strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are
getting the most out of your
insurance contact them for
a free quote.
Hawk)
Thinking about upgrading a
bathroom? Perhaps a new
colour in the living room?
Maybe even a new wood
floor? Professional Painting
and Remodeling can help
with these and many other
projects. Provide international standards of quality
as well as professional and
timely service at reasonable
rates. Call today to schedule
a free evaluation.
services.
Investment & Finance
VLS SAIGON
DRAGON CAPITAL
1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo
Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
9355
dragoncapital.com
THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT

GROUP
IGLOBALASSIST
27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3822 0907
ethicalinvestmentgroup.
co.uk
Tel: 0934 874271

Iglobalassist.com
TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT
LIBERTY INSURANCE
66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623
t-wm.com
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana

Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3812 5125
libertyinsurance.com.vn
PRUDENTIAL
25th F, Saigon Trade Centre,
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 1660
prudential.com.vn
TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES

VIETNAM
Huu Nghi Building, 35 Le
Loi, Q1
ten-pac.com
An independent agency representing local and international insurance companies
in Southeast Asia. A trusted
partner for health, employee
benefits and life insurance,
the team at Tenzing has over
30 years experience providing insurance advice.
Interior Design
PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND
REMODELING
Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren
LATELIER
33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492
latelier-anphu.com
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van,
Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670
771
vietnameselanguagegarden.com
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging
from basic conversational
Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and
advanced levels, as well as
special courses including
Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival
crash course.
VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE

TRAINING & TRANSLATION
37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6678 0914
vnccentre.com
VINACAPITAL
VUS
17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower,

3821 9930
vinacapital.com
A leading investment fund
management company with
extensive experience in the
emerging Vietnam market.
Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which
is a US$839 million investment fund.
189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800
vus-etsc.edu.vn
Language Schools
ILA VIETNAM
146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3521 8788
ilavietnam.com
A foreign-owned education
and training company that
offers a range of educational
programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes,
corporate training, teacher
training and overseas study
consultancy and placement
Legal Services
ALLENS
Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29
Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
1717
vietnamlaws.com
BAKER & MCKENZIE

12th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3829 5585
bakermckenzie.com
FRASERS LAW COMPANY

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The
Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733
frasersvn.com
GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8599
gide.com
HCMC
Coffee Cup
Urban Station Coffee
he idea of just wandering

off to a cafe with a notebook
and writing and seeing
where that takes me for
awhile is just bliss J.K. Rowling
Sometimes it feels like cafes are a dime
a dozen in Ho Chi Minh City when
youve seen one, youve seen them all.
Its hard to differentiate. Some copy the
concept of already established brands,
others are simple affairs. Yet its not
always like this there are a growing
number of exceptions. And I was able
to visit one that stood out in its style.
An up-and-coming franchise, Urban
Station entices its customers with vibrant
colours and inexpensive prices.
Before you even walk in, the first
thing you see is the bright red, Londonstyle telephone door. As you cross the
threshold, the word that comes to mind
is cosy the architecture certainly
reflects that. Imagine what a quaint
subway or underground station might
look like if it were half as small and
painted electric blue.
The white tables and chairs have a
metallic sheen to them and the sides of
the main room are curved, forming a
comfortable cubby that makes you want
to curl up with a book and a blanket. The
theme is modern without being lifeless
and certainly has a refreshing style. J.K.
Rowling may even be happy here.
A Specific Market
The clientele at the time were mostly
older office workers, but Brenda,
whos from the UK, and who bought
the franchise last July, says the target
demographic are teens.
When asked why teenagers would rather
come here than elsewhere, Brenda says, We
have drinks like other places... the prices are
good, the location is comfortable. Its not as
intimidating as, say, Coffee Bean.
The more expensive cafes can certainly
be intimidating, given that some
drinks go for as much as VND100,000,
something the average teenager might

struggle with. Yet at Urban Station costs
are more reasonable, as the most youll
pay for a drink is VND35,000. The drink
list is extensive, ranging from ice blends,
to espressos, even Italian soda and
sorbets.
The particular Urban Station I visited,
one of 15 in Ho Chi Minh City, was a little
hard to find. But that lends itself to its
charm. A little gem nestled in the rough.
Thiago Nunes
Urban Station Coffee is all over, go to
urbanstation.com.vn to find one close
HCMC
INDOCHINE COUNSEL
Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65
Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9640
indochinecounsel.com
fessional team of photographers, stylists.

shooting administrators, casting managers
and retouchers. They make photos on various topics, from business to sport.
MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 8860
mayerbrownjsm.com
Management Training
EMBERS ASIA
Public Relations
MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS
38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08)

6292 9288
erci.edu.vn
Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3838 5517
matterhorncommunications.com
Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms
operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and
issues management and training.
G&H
VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS
80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08)

3822 4728
embers-asia.com
ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM
6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi

Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919
ghmsglobal.com
A 100 percent foreigninvested company focusing on management services and consulting with inhouse programmes to meet the
particular requirements of its clients. Offers
teambuilding and academicbased business
and management programmes.
XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
Market Research
CIMIGO
9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3822 7727
cimigo.vn
An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific
region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge
management, developing marketing plans
and business models and assessing market
opportunities.
INDOCHINA RESEARCH
3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 6965
indochinaresearch.com
MEKONG RESEARCH
91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
6258 6314
mekongresearch.com
NIELSEN
7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)

6291 0462
veropr.com
Recruitment & HR
ADECCO VIETNAM
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430
adecco.com.vn
Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in
2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global
workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT,
engineering & technical, and office.
HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia
Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com
G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD.

Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor,
180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.
Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th Floor, 535 Kim
Ma Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi.
www.vieclambank.com
info@vieclambank.com
VieclamBank is a brand of G.A. Consultants
Vietnam - a Human Resources Consulting
company with 100% Japan investment. Established in 2006 in Vietnam, the company
focuses on recruiting executive and senior
level, providing Vietnamese and Japanese
candidates with experience studying abroad
or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and competitive service suitable for
many types of business.
CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen

Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088
vn.nielsen.com
MANPOWER VIETNAM
TNS VIETNAM
NAVIGOS GROUP
58 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 6631

Tnsvietnam.vn
With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS
Vietnam offers all three major market research services customisation, access
panels and media monitoring to a range
of local and international clients.
Photography Services
DRAGON IMAGES
Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel:
01643 172 660
dragonimages.asia
Dragon Images production studio is a pro-
8th Floor, Resco Building, 94-96 Nguyen Du,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0950
manpower.com.vn
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925

5000
navigosgroup.com
OPUS VIETNAM
5th Floor Vitic Building. 6B Nguyen Thanh Y,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 8209
opusasia.net
VIETNAMWORKS.COM
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404
1373
vietnamworks.com
HCMC
Relocation Agents
Kids Classes & Sports
AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM)

5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices
globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.
DANCENTER
53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,
funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
this modern dance studio.
HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER
ALLIED PICKFORDS
12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices
in over 45 countries, Allied
Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also
provides tailored relocation
services.
79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel:
0908 460267
kidsclubsaigon.com
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON

19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids
in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and
saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a
mixture of private and group classes.
PIANO CLASSES
Tel: 01225 636682
morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
SAIGON MOVEMENT
Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com
SAIGON SEAL TEAM

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
SAIGON PONY CLUB

38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Saigonponyclub.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to
16 years and private lessons for children and adults.
Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
TAE KWON DO
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
VINSPACE
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY

Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower,
9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12,
District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3
826 7799
www.asiantigers-mobility.
com
Asian Tigers is one of the
largest regional move management specialists, with
services including door-todoor moving, housing and
school searches, local and
office moves and pet relocations.
CROWN RELOCATIONS
2nd Floor Coteccons Office
Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien
Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3840 4237
crownrelo.com
JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is a leader in the field.
LOGICAL MOVES VIETNAM

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international,
local, domestic and office moves for household
goods and personal effects
swimming pool, a gym, sauna

and steam room, as well as
two on-site restaurants.
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu

Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED

7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo,
Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850
seal.com.vn
Serviced Apartments
CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT
37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700

Inspirato.edu.vn
KIDS CLUB SAIGON
through our global partner

network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not
have documentation.
656 Cach Mang Thang Tam,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587
camlyapartment@hcm.
vnn.vn
CITYVIEW
12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3822 1111
cityview.com.vn

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON RESIDENCES
Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon youll
find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The
residences offer panoramic
views of the downtown area.
NORFOLK MANSION
1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished
accommodation with attentive and discreet service.
Facilities include an outdoor
Tel: 0906 912730

www.vietnammm.com/
restaurants-ben-style
Healthy, calorie-counted
sandwich and deli fare
Chez Guido
SEDONA SUITES
Eat.Vn
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822

9666
sedonahotels.com.sg
SHERWOOD RESIDENCE
No 01 Street No.104-BTT,
Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,
Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08)
3742 5678
enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury
Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from
two to four-bedroom units
with spectacular panoramic
views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite
bathrooms, separate work
and living areas, a balcony,
modern amenities, elegant
furnishings and carefully
chosen trimmings.
Ben Style

(08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank
hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort
lifestyle with the amenities
of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from
downtown by high-speed
boat shuttle.
DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES
Delivery
127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)

3823 2288
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a
luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime
location, comfort and class,
with fivestar facilities and
service.
Tel: (08) 3898 3747

www.chezguido.com
Vietnamese, international
fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches
Dominos Pizza
Tel: (08) 3939 3030
www.dominos.vn
Pizzas, wings, desserts
www.eat.vn
Delivery service website
for local restaurants
el gato negro
Tel: (08) 6660 1577
Californian-style burritos
HUNGRYPANDA.VN
www.hungrypanda.vn
KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
www.kfcvietnam.com.vn
Fried chicken, chicken
burgers, sides
Lotteria

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C
Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
Somerset Chancellor Court,
Somerset Ho Chi Minh City
and Somerset Vista Ho Chi
Minh City serviced residences combine the space
and privacy of an apartment with the services of a
top-rated hotel. They come
with separate living and
dining areas, as well as a
fully equipped kitchen where
guests can prepare a meal
for themselves, their family
and friends.
Tel: (08) 3910 0000

www.lotteria.vn
Burgers, fried chicken,
sides
Pizza Hut (PHD)

Tel: (08) 3838 8388
www.pizzahut.vn
Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers
Scoozi
Tel: (08) 3823 5795
www.scoozipizza.com
Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts
Taco Bich
www.tacobich.com
Homemade Mexican fare
willy woos
Tel: (08) 3941 5433
www.blackcatsaigon.com
US-style chicken and
waffles
Vietnammm

THE LANDMARK
5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2098
thelandmarkvietnam.com
65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a
comprehensive health club
for tenants and members,
a squash court and a 16th
floor swimming pool.
www.vietnammm.com

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
downtown
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
Bars & Clubs / Cafes & Ice-Cream / Clothing &

Accessories / Cooking Classes / Crafts & Furniture / Eat /
Fitness, Dance & Yoga / Galleries / Groceries, Liquor &
Wine / Hairdressers / Medical & Dental / Salons & Spas
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
BEER REPUBLIC
MODERN BEER HALL

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel:
0945 858034
facebook.com/BeerRepublic
BLANCHYS TASH
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
0909 028293
Blanchystash.com
BOOTLEG DJ CAF
MINIMALIST CAF BAR

9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907
609202.
bootlegsaigon.com
Reminiscent of a New York
or London underground
watering hole, this is a great
place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts,
lunch by day and a variety of
DJ sets by night.
BOUDOIR LOUNGE
HOTEL LOUNGE BAR

Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

LIVE MUSIC / BAR

8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 7699
CUNHOUSE
LOUNGE BAR
Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
Tel: 0908 033982

DRUNKEN DUCK
EXPAT / SPORTS BAR

58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3915 2853
Subtle lighting, a pleasant
ambience, a pool table and
darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel
of a drinking man's pub. A
place to have fun, drink beer
or spirits and get in with the
party mood. Known for its 15
shooter challenge.
FUSE
TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP

3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
0919 206461
fuse.vn
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Th
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District 4
LA HABANA
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and
restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and
Cuban cuisine, as well as a
few German favourites such
as curry wurst and Wiener
schnitzel. Nightly live music
and regular salsa classes.
LA FENETRE SOLEIL
FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

3824 5994
A seductive watering whole
in a great corner location
thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese
fusion cuisine, imported
beer, classic cocktails, and
entertaining music events /
DJ sets.
GAME ON
SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel:
(08) 6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com
Ca
ch
Tr
u
Du
h
an
Da
o
EXPAT BAR
3822 2644
Expats keep returning to
this smoky dive bar, largely
due to its amicable service,
brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart
games. A mainstay in the
local darts league.
District 3
Ba
Hu
ng
ICE BLUE
Ha
i
ie
n
LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595
hardrockcafe.vn
Kh
ai
Ph
APOCALYPSE NOW
CARMEN
HARD ROCK CAFE
Tr
an
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 1234
International dcor blends
seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces
with a wide-ranging drink
menu and hip dance tunes to
create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP
3823 6838
Bromas medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the
citys weirdest and coolest
events/random moments.
A sophisticated cocktail
menu and quite possibly the
best lamb burger in town.
Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.
To
n
Ho
2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)
BROMA
an
g
in
h
en
Ti
Bars & Clubs
Binh Thanh
in
h
LAST CALL
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)

3823 3122
lastcallsaigon.com
If youre in need of dense,
soulful atmosphere and
maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from
wherever, Last Call is your
stop and fast becoming
that of the similarly inclined.
Great happy hour deals for
early evening starters.
Le Rendez-Vous de Saigon
FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR

9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 0396
lerendezvousdesaigon.com
With such a meaningful
name - the meeting point
- this wine bistro boasts a
relaxed, friendly ambience,
perfect for unwinding with
an after work drink or to
enjoy time with friends.
Reasonably priced, has a
sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive
old and new world wine list.
LEVEL 23 WINE BAR
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

Level 23, Sheraton Saigon
Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT
LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB

Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
LUSH
PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM
3824 2496
lush.vn
OBRIENS
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports
bar with classic pub dcor

is widely appreciated for its
excellent international fare,
large whiskey selection and
upstairs pool table. Great
pizzas. And for a real treat,
check out their zesty rolls.
PACHARAN
SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6024
pacharansaigon.com
Legs of Iberian ham hang
from the ceiling in the
downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything
Spanish. Regular first-floor
live music and excellent eats
makes it a mainstay for the
wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

PHATTYS
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
HCMC
Tel: (08) 3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed
Caf Latin, Phattys has
become the go-to, Aussie
beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international
cricket to Aussie rules and
serving an array of pub grub
favourites.
SAIGON SAIGON
HOTEL MUSIC BAR

9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 1923 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
STORM P
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4738
Stormp.vn
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this

a great drinking and dining
venue
VINO
WINE BAR / TAPAS

The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299
1315
1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6281 9059
vinovietnam.com
This downtown wine shops
terrace is a popular after
work drinking spot, where
one can select from 10 wines
by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent
tapas menu. Alternatively,
buy from the great selection
of wines in the shop and pay
a small corkage.
VASCOS
MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR

The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
2888
Vascosgroup.com
A veteran fixture of Saigons
nightlife scene, Vascos offers a softly lit downstairs
patio, and an upstairs Blue
Room chill out lounge area
with regular live music.
VELVET
DANCE/HIP HOP
26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2262
velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.
com
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
VINYL BAR
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907
890623
vinylbarsaigon.com
A small but popular bar with
all the shenanigans of the
nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and
80s tunes. Has a darts area
out back and is a popular
space for watching the live
English Premier League.
WINE BAR 38

3829 3968
With a huge selection of
self-imported wines from
Bordeaux, this classy but
contemporary venue is a
wine bar downstairs, and a
lounge on the first floor. Has
a French-Asian menu paired
to all the wines, with a huge
selection of the good stuff
sold by the glass.
WINE EMBASSY

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 7827
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving
30 wines by the glass, all
at reasonable prices. Has
an excellent food menu to
complement the old and new
world wines.
XU
CAF / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 8468
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its
cocktails and wine list. It
serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly
decorated interior. Regular
DJ nights.
ZANZBAR
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 7375
Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting,
international tapas and a
laid-back, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the offering at the all-new ZanZBar
on the river end of Dong Khoi.
Popular with a businessy, international crowd.
Cafes & Ice-Cream
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2772
Auparcsaigon.com
Set in a shophouse-style
building, Au Parc offers a
chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean
food complemented with
good coffee and excellent

desserts.
BACH DANG
ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE

26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2707
BASKIN ROBBINS
ICE CREAM PARLOUR

1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
7308 3131
baskinrobbins.vn
CASBAH
MIDDLE EASTERN
59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 5130
This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both
cozy indoor and rooftop
seating to admire views of
the city. With such a prime
downtown location, expect
prices to match.
CENTRO
ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE

11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3827 5946
Conveniently located near
the Caravelle Hotel, this
casual cafe serves one of
the best lattes in town with
a mid-range Italian menu
including panini and other
typical fare.
COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL
Metropolitan Building, 235
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508
7285
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
CREPERIE AND CAF
FRENCH
3829 9117
Known for its fantastic
street-side seating opposite
the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out
caf will impress you with its
location as much as its food.
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor
compliments the spacious,
whitewashed contemporary
interior of LUsine. A simple,
creative menu combines
with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and
art gallery out back. Second
location on Le Loi.
FANNY
Magonn The Cafe

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 1633
fanny.com.vn
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL
80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3704
saigongivral.com
GOODY

(08) 3829 9339
HAGEN-DAZS

6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066
KITA COFFEE
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 6799
Kitas colonial-era building
and bistro-style decor will
have you thinking youve
been transported to the
streets of Europe. Pair your
experience with an espresso-based Italian coffee from
their Mediterranean-based
menu. Excellent sandwiches
and salads.
LUSINE
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B
Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
0703

(08) 3822 9672
magonn.vn
Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything
from drinks to bites. Coming
with a crowd? The attic is a
quaint little spot to fit a cozy
gathering.
M2C Cafe
44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2495
facebook.com/m2ccafe
At M2C (Modern Meets
Culture), everything gets a
touch of modernity. From
the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows
immense local culture, done
with a modern flare. Be seen
here at one of the latest popular joint in town.
The Morning Cafe

2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
Have a book to read? Pick a
bright spot by the window
and get snuggly with the
comfy upholstery in this
second-floor cafe. With a
cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some
background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.
THE PRINT ROOM
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
3823 4990
Second-storey coffeehouse
offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read

from their book-nook collection. Comfortable
couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
TRUNG NGUYEN
INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE
80 Dong Khoi, Q1
trungnguyen.com.vn
ZEST BISTRO & CAF
INTERNATIONAL
5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 5599
This two-storey building with a mezzanine
level boasts an industrial style complex with
block walls, steel structures and huge glass
windows. The mid-range menu offers over
40 options from appetizers to desserts.

ANUPA ECO LUXE
LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394
anupa.net
Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm
This centrally located unique boutique has
been converted into an eco-boutique which
exclusively retails the complete Anupa
leather and semi-precious jewellery range
as well as other unique eco brands such
as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and
cushion covers.
DEBENHAMS
ADULT & CHILDRENS WEAR

Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6291 7592
GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN
DESIGN & JEWELLERY

35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162
galleryvivekkevin.com
9.30am to 8pm
This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in
contemporary and exclusive handcrafted
jewellery made from handpicked gemstones
and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery
talks run every month.
GEISHA & GEISHAS COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE
CASUAL & EVENING WEAR

85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4004
Contemporary ranges of casual and evening
wear fused with Asian designs. The apparel
includes floral dresses, jean skirts, printed
tees and street-style bags. Enjoy a cup of
coffee at their caf after.
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674

9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated
clothing and casual high-quality cottons are
stocked at this boutique/caf. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of
vintage bicycles.
IPA-NIMA
BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71
Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
9am to 9pm
LUSINE
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org
MANDARINA
TAILOR-MADE SHOES
171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267
MR & MRS SMITH
FACTORY OUTLET
43 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8019
9am to 9pm
This designer fashion outlet sells a variety
of clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam.
All designs are brand new, delivered from
the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet
prices.
NGUYEN FRERES
A Ta ste of
Authenticity
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459
8am to 8pm
NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY
EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS
83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9079; 42 Le
Loi, Q1. (08) 3824 7456
ninhkhuong.vn
SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

69 Dong Khoi, Q1
SONG
ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1; 75
Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4088
asiasongdesign.com
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org
T&V TAILOR
NHA XINH
TAILORS
39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556
triciaandverona.com
HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 6115
www.nhaxinh.com
VESPA SHOP
THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang,
Q1
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits
and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding
gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks,
DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and
more. Rental scooters and bikes available.
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn

Cooking Classes
SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC
74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine
with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour
lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben
Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients
for the class.
VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel:
(08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-class-saigon.com
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnam-themed tees are
the showpiece at this airy French-run store.
Designs are inspired by anything from the
Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.
EM EM
Crafts & Furniture

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
4201
bellavitafurniture.com
BOCONCEPT
DANISH FURNITURE
68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6604; The
Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 7357
boconcept.vn
DIABOLO
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1803
9am to 8pm
36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward,

District 2, HCMC
Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888
Email: info@pendolasco.vn
Delivery service available daily,
from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC

Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181
Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn
Monday to Friday:
11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00
Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00
www.pendolasco.vn
HCMC
Top Eats
The Secret Garden
e careful or youll miss it. The

alley that leads to the rooftop
restaurant is easily passed. Its
narrow, lined with small eateries
and full of parked motorbikes. Walk
towards the end. On the left side, youll
find a doorway leading into an apartment
building. Above the entrance is the
restaurant sign. Go up the steps. Pass
the signs that promise the lift is coming
soon. Look down the hallways youll
be reminded that this is a residential
building. Continue up the stairs, four
flights. At the top, youll find The Secret
Garden.
A respite from the street noise and
pollution, here you can find home-cooked
Vietnamese cuisine, including steamed
snakehead. A small garden, potted plants
and several trellises holding vines divide
the dining area into sections. There might
be a caged rooster. The atmosphere is
calm, even with the flashing lights of
nearby Vincom Center B. Covers of songs
from the early 1980s play over the sound
system. A koi fish is painted on the wall,
and multi-coloured curtains hang by the

only portion with a ceiling, where you
may want to sit if it looks like rain.
The Cuisine
Most of the dishes are a combination of
sweet, sour and salty, though some are
more balanced than others. The stir-fried
corn with green onion and shrimp, and
the grilled lemongrass pork rolls are
especially good appetisers. Pork bits
are mixed with the corn and add a little
more saltiness, and the slightly pickled
carrots served on the side complement the
savoury pork rolls.
Fish is another strength. The potbraised basa catfish is sweet without being
excessively sugary, and the veggies and
red snapper hotpot is excellent, especially
if you like vegetables. A small hotpot with
two or three appetisers serves two nicely,
and if you look confused when the hotpot
arrives, someone will help, or will just
cook the fish and vegetables in the broth
for you and dish out the first helping.
Wine and beer are also served, and
when I visited, a glass of the December

wine-of-the-month Frontera Sauvignon
Blanc went well with the dishes.
The penny-wort with soy milk isnt bad
either. It may or may not be as healthy
as the internet blogs suggest, but it sure
tastes healthy. You might be reminded
of a freshly-mowed lawn its earthy
and grassy, and its served with a side of
simple syrup. However, if you drink it
along with one of the sweeter dishes, such
as the braised chicken with fish sauce, you
may not wish to add any syrup at all.
If your sweet tooth still isnt satisfied
after the appetisers and entrees, you
can opt for one of the iced desserts. The
seaweed and nuts is deceptive as it consists
more of grapes and other fruit than nuts,
but that probably makes it even better.
On Facebook The Secret Garden is
listed as Home-Cooked Vietnamese
Restaurant & Tea House. Just dont forget
to check the weather forecast before you
go. Heather Momyer
The Secret Garden is at 158 bis Pasteur,
Q1, Ho Chi Minh City
Eat
3T QUAN NUONG
VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08)
3821 1631
AL FRESCOS
INTERNATIONAL
27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of one of Vietnams
most successful restaurant chains, Al
Frescos offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match.
Excellent delivery service.
ASHOKA
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372
33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177
ashokaindianrestaurant.com
Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy
curries and Chinese-Indian fare.
cuisine using fresh products bought early

morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the
famous tarte tatin.
BLACK CAT
AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055
blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails,
mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular twostorey eatery close to the river.
BLANCHY STREET
JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8793
The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito,
the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine
at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and
most unusual in the city. All complemented
by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy
terrace out front.
BOMBAY INDIAN
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAF
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European caf fare
think deli-style sandwiches, salads and
mezzes, plus coffees and juices served at
a popular park-side Le Duan location with
classic cream and green-tiled dcor.
INDIAN MALAY
57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114
BROTZEIT
GERMAN / RESTOBAR
Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 4206
brotzeit.co/kumholink
Bun Cha Ha Noi
BUN CHA
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1
BAHDJA
87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763
1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com
Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel,
Bahdja is Saigons first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber
North African and Mediterranean cuisine
cooked and served in a traditional Algerian
style. Best experienced in a group, this small
but pleasant restaurants soothing ambience
is matched by the owners genuine hospitality
and complimented by an array of tasty tajines
and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to
try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.
BARBECUE GARDEN
VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE
135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
3340
barbecuegarden.com
BASILICO
Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du
and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099
BEIRUT
LEBANESE
The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2188
BIBI@ALIBI
5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257
The legendary chef Bibis newest creation, a
convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean
CENTRAL PARC BANH MI

7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549
Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule,
New York-themed sandwich shop does
creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices
think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels.
Excellent delivery service.
CIAO BELLA
NEW YORK-ITALIAN
11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering
a range of tasty and affordable antipasti,
pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic
bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film
legends make for a relaxed and attractive
setting.
CORSO
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing
range of US and Australian steaks plus great
grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decentsized steaks start at VND390,000.
DRAGON NOODLE
JAPANESE NOODLES
29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008

ELBOW ROOM
AMERICAN
52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking
HCMC
US-style diner ranges from
meatball baguettes to chilli
burgers, pizzas, blackened
chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.
EL GAUCHO
5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1879
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.
HOGS BREATH CAF
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub
such as burgers, salads
and prime rib steaks with a
sports bar atmosphere, this
Australian chain also offers
regular promotions and a
4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.
INAHO
SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 0326
JASPAS WINE & GRILL

GANESH
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
The ubiquitous mint sauce
is thick and creamy and the
curries are both authentic
and smoky. Ganesh is rated
by many as the best Indian in
town. Very friendly service.
GOLDEN ELEPHANT
CLASSIC THAI
3822 8554
saigonssk@vnn.vn
GOURMETS DELIGHT
ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE

Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana
Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3521 8181
gourmetsdelight.com.vn
GRILLBAR
AIRCON STREETFOOD
(08) 3822 7901
facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe
Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to
it a range of grilled dishes,
typical of the barbecue fare
youd find on the street, and
then add in three types of
rice and a range of organic
products. Close to Ben
Thanh Market, this is com
binh dan
HOA TUC
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
1676
Highly rated restaurant
with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include
pink pomelo squid and crab
salad, mustard leaf prawn
rolls, fishcake wraps and
barbecue chicken in ginger,
onions and a lime leaf marinade.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 1101
INTERNATIONAL FUSION
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant,
the international offerings
here are consistently good
and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor
terrace area, and a good
kids menu. Check out their
pepper steaks.
KABIN
CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel,
815 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033
marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet
Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with
striking dcor and the bonus of views over the Saigon
River. Dishes range from
VND80,000 to VND900,000.
KOH THAI
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
4423
Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics
alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thais
creative cocktails merge
Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.
LE BANH MI
12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 1036
LOLIVIER
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
1555
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic
atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls
and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant
has quarterly Michelin star
promotions and an award
winning pastry team.
LA CUISINE
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
2229 8882
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in
white specialises in a mix
of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine.
Has a small but well thought
out menu, backed up with an
extensive wine list.
LA HOSTARIA
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 1080
lahostaria.com
This downtown hideaway
with rusticstyle decorative
trawls features fresh, light
regional cuisine from across
Italy. Try the carpaccio misto
di pesce and agnello dantico.
Also specializes in excellent
wood-fired pizzas.
(08) 3520 9999

MOGAMBO
mosque with Islamic-style

white dome dcor and comfortable, cushioned seating.
Authentically Turkish cuisine
with a sprinkling of western
fare thrown in.
NAM GIAO
PENDOLASCO
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
1311
mogambo@saigonnet.vn
HUE CUISINE
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1,
Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116
Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 9996
namgiao.com
NHA HANG NGON
VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD

3827 7131
NINETEEN
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
OMG!
LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON
CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN

FUSION
(08) 3829 9263
lebouchondesaigon.com
A sociable and popular
French bistro serving up
100 percent organic, traditional Gallic staples such as
French onion soup, escargot,
and moules marinires, plus
European fusion dishes, and
competitively priced world
wines.
LE JARDIN
CLASSIC FRENCH
(08) 3825 8465
Unpretentious but tasty
French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French
cultural centre. The robust,
bistro-style cuisine is very
well-priced, and excellent,
cheap house wine is served
by the carafe.
LUCCA
TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN
88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3691
A contemporary trattoria in
the heart of Saigon, serving
home-cooked Italian cuisine with New York flair in a
beautifully designed space
with high ceilings. The menu
features both traditional antipasti and substantial main
courses.
LUONG SON
PAN-VIETNAMESE
3825 1330
MARKET 39
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai
Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen
An Ninh, Q1
A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with
a lounge bar just 50m from
Ben Thanh Market. Features
a glass shell modeled in the
image of the Eiffel Tower, a
jungle-like atmosphere and
views over central Saigon.
OSAKA RAMEN
JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04,
Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7
OPERA
Ground Floor, Park Hyatt
Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
Unpretentious, casual but
elegant restaurant with a
triedandtested Italian
menu backed up by a compact wine list from regions
like Umbria, Toscana and
Veneto. Regular specials and
impressive open kitchens.
PACHARAN
SPANISH / EUROPEAN
3825 6924
Legs of Iberian ham hang in
the downstairs bar at this
multi-story bodega serving
Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm
reds, yellows and oranges,
Pacharans food menu is
traditionally Spanish.
PASHA
TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL
25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 3677
pasha.com.vn
Sumptuous, Turkish-themed
restaurant close to the
PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Opening out into a large,
leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style
Italian restaurant serves up
quality homemade pasta,
risotto, gnocchi, excellent
pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.
PIZZA 4PS
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated
Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet
delicious pies such as tuna
curry pizza and calamari
seaweed pizza, as well as
more traditional varieties.
Propaganda
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1
Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up
classic Vietnamese cuisine
in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with
Propaganda Art murals and
prints.
QUAN BUI 2
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 1515
With its leafy roof garden
and chic interior, Quan Bui
offers a wide selection of
Vietnamese cuisine which is
cooked in their open kitchen.
815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3822 0033
Offers versatile allday dining of international quality,
with the bonus of being able
to watch the action on the
river sidewalk. Features
western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.
SAIGON CAF
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SEOUL HOUSE
KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4297
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT
PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21
Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes
and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong
Kong, Shang Palace has nine
private dining rooms and a
main dining area seating
over 300. Good for events.
SKEWERS
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious
Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging
from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki,
a range of dips, mousaka,
osso buco and lamb chop
skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.
TANDOOR

(08) 3930 4839
Tandoorvietnam.com
TEMPLE CLUB
REFINERY
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades
this popular French-style
bistro and wine bar which
once housed the citys
opium refinery. The cuisine
runs from creative salads
through to Mediterranean
influenced mains.
REFLECTIONS
INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING

3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19
Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4999
RIVERSIDE CAF
Renaissance Riverside,
PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon,
the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one
of the citys best-preserved
buildings. Serving quality
Vietnamese and Indochine
cuisine at reasonable prices.
THE BURGER CORNER
INTERNATIONAL
3821 0094
TOKYO BBQ
JAPANESE BARBECUE
15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2527
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE
HCMC
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this
a great drinking and dining
venue
WARDA
MIDDLE-EASTERN
71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3822
info@wardavn.com
The deep colours, Arabic dcor and cushioned outdoor
terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.
The food is good, too, taking
in tabouleh, houmous, falafel
and mutabbal, shwarmas
and more. Sells authentic
shisha.
5999
Cfyc.com.vn
NUTRIFORT
GENERAL FITNESS
2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8560
nutrifort.com
Offers fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. There is also a
spa and a restaurant serving
caloriecalibrated meals.
RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH

CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033
SAIGON FITNESS CO.
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
SHERATON FITNESS
Wrap & Roll
3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.
YAMANEKO
JAPANESE / OKINAWA
(08) 3823 8433
yamanekovn.com
Funky Yamaneko down an
alley off Le Thanh Ton offers delicious, unpretentious
Okinawan fare alongside
mainland staples. Does a
great set lunch deal.
YU CHU
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 3520 9999
Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles,
fresh dim sum and hot wok
dishes within an impeccably
designed open kitchen, as
diners look on. Stylish and
spectacular.
Fitness, Dance & Yoga

ANUPA YOGA
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

3824 1555
THE LANDMARK CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext. 176
In addition to the squash
court, facilities include a
fullyequipped gym room, a
rooftop swimming pool and
separate male and female
saunas.
Galleries
BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART
GALLERY
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 3695
bluespacearts.com
DOGMA
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese
propaganda art and a collection put together over the
last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the
majority of the work comes
from the war period when
provocative poster art was
used to inspire and motivate.
Sells prints of the originals
and related products.
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822

2394
anupa.net/yoga-anupa
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS

MUSEUM
CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3829 4441
baotangmythuattphcm.vn
FITNESS CENTRE
Queen Ann Building, 2830
32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3181
07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 3166
phuongmaigallery.com

Groceries, Liquor & Wine
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

(08) 3822 9332
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from
the likes of Fauchon. The
deli upstairs in the Hai Ba
Trung branch serves tasty
baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free
WiFi, and offers probably
the best selection of cheese
and cured meats in town.
Free delivery for Districts 1,
2 and 3.
BACCHUS CORNER
WINE SHOP
158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 3306
bacchuscorner.com
A range of spirits, whiskies
and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over
the world with an especially
good selection from France,
Chile and South Africa. Also
has an excellent range of
single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an onsite
wine tasting machine, the
Enomatic, the first of its kind
in Vietnam.
DALOC
WINE SHOP
74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 5404 3575
daloc.vn
KIM HAI BUTCHERS
BUTCHERS
73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 4376
kimhai.vn
PHUONG HA
GROCERS
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 1318
RED APRON
WINE SHOP
22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 0021
THAI HA
GROCERS
60 Ham Nghi, Q1
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE SHOP
(08) 3825 8826
One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition
to their excellent range of
wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.
HCMC
Body
and
Temple
Have you got the stomach for it?
id you realise that you have

more bacteria in your gut than
cells in your body? 100 trillion
microorganisms 10 times more
bacteria than the combined number
of cells in the human body. With this
knowledge you could really say that we
are more bacteria than human.
Hippocrates said all disease begins
in the gut and its taken us 2,000 years
to start to figure out that he was correct.
Optimal gut flora and digestive function is
crucial for your health and fat loss. Among
other things, healthy gut flora promotes
proper gastrointestinal function, regulates
your metabolism and makes up more than
75 percent of your immune system.
A lot of people go through their days,
weeks, months, years and entire life with
joint pain, sleep disturbances, arthritis,
fever, skin irritations, fatigue, night sweets,
headaches, depression, an so on. A lot of
the time I find people accept the fact that
they feel crappy and believe such is life.
But this is not the case. All these symptoms
or feelings are, for the most part, a result
of poor diet and lifestyle. Ryan Andrews
of Precision Nutrition puts it like this:
If Mama aint happy, aint nobody happy.
Substitute gut for mama and you pretty
much get the picture. Poor gut health is a
big problem in modern day society yet one
of the easiest to counteract.
Get Some Guts

Have you got the stomach to achieve
By Phil Kelly
www.pressfoto.com
optimal health and wellbeing?

The majority of modern day food
products were unknown to our systems
100 years ago. If you think 100 years is a
long time, when we are talking about the
evolution or the development of humans
its like a blink of an eye.
Our guts simply cant handle these new
foods. This is not to say that some time
in the future we cant adapt to them, just
that in the present time our bodies are
not coping. And experts reason that the
introduction of these new or modified
foodstuffs explains the increase in allergies
and food intolerances now common place
and increasing in society.
There is now a condition called Leaky
Gut Syndrome (LGS). Cases of this
syndrome are increasing, but the scary
thing is that a lot of people have this issue
and dont even know it. LGS is caused
when there is irritation or inflammation
of the gut wall, where the tight junctions
between the stomachs cells loosen up and
allow compounds to pass through when
they shouldnt. Hence, the gut is leaking
compounds into our system.
Food additives such as MSG, which is
in widespread use here in Vietnam, can
influence the junctions of the gut and
weaken their bonds, thus exposing you
to all types of nasty pathogens. Stress is
another major player in the cause of leaky
gut syndrome along with antibiotics (and
other pharmaceuticals, as they upset the
balance of good bacteria), malnutrition (not
obtaining the nutrients to build a strong

gut lining) and foodstuffs like gluten,
casein, lectins, fructose all can cause
inflammation within the gut.
Experts agree that a healthy gut barrier
depends on good levels of intestinal
bacteria, intact mucosa and a healthy
immune system. All of which are influenced
through your diet and lifestyle choices.
Keep Mama Happy

Here are 3 quick tips for improving your
gut health and keeping Mama happy:
1) Promote good bacteria levels by eating
fermented foods that will support good gut
flora or take a high-quality, multi-species
probiotic
2) Manage your stress levels. If you are
mentally or physically stressed, your gut
will be, too. Take time to de-stress and relax
regularly
3) Remove all toxins or food intolerances
from your diet: toxins put your body under
a lot of stress and food intolerances cause
your system to be inflamed. By eliminating
these from your diet your body can operate
in a true state of homeostasis
The bottom line is that something as
simple as taking care of your gut health
could improve your health, feeling of
wellbeing and appearance. Have you been
nice to your gut lately?
Phil is founder & master trainer at Body
Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763
or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or
through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)
HCMC
VEGGYS
GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8526
VINIFERA
WINE SHOP
7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0860
viniferavn.com
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP
(08) 6299 1315
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines.
Also offers regular popular
wine courses. The outdoor
terrace area is the perfect
spot to sample a new vintage.
Hairdressers
VENUS
41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3829 6298
Medical & Dental

ACCADENT
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com
CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI)
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic
provides general practice
and a range of specialties
including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and
traditional medicine.
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.
FV SAIGON CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6290 6167
fvhospital.com
Stateoftheart medical
centre located in District
1. Experienced American,
French, and Vietnamese
doctors provide the full
spectrum health care. Plus
sports medicine, cosmetic
treatments, skin care and
surgical consultations.
JASMINE
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3827 6999
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic
offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to
treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and
facial care team. The clinic
utilises the latest therapies.
WESTCOAST INTL DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL
CLINIC
Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6999
The Practice, Level 1, 71-79
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
6777
westcoastinternational.com
An international dental clinic
equipped with the latest
technology, the comfortable
clinics offer cosmetic and
implant dentistry with a focus on making each patients
experience anxiety and pain
free.
Salons & Spas

AQUA DAY SPA
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
aquadayspasaigon.com
FAME NAILS SALON

3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909
682 827
famenails.com
GLOW SPA
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8368
glowsaigon.com
Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages
lasting from 30 minutes, to
two-hour hot stone therapy,
includes one suite with a
Jacuzzi bath; offers hand
and foot care and a hair
styling area.
INDOCHINE SPA
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a
peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic
scents and lulling melodies.
Customers are pampered
by qualified therapists using
natural French products in
a clean and pleasant environment.
45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
Sparelated salon with a
good reputation for quality
and comfort offers washes
and leisurely haircuts from
VND330,000 plus a range of
related services including
massage and some excellent treatments.
MEKONG BLISS SPA

112, Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
6299 0563
10am to 10pm (last booking
9.30pm)
Q SPA & SALON

31Q Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3905 4609
Qspaandsalon.com
An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with
wooden floors, flowers and
flowing drapes makes this
an excellent atmosphere in
which to enjoy a massage.
Also offers hair styling and
facials.
ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Specialising in all forms of
skincare, this is welldesigned, ambient and outfitted
day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and
foot treatments.
SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND

HEALTH CLUB
3rd Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3520 9999
THANH SANCTUARY
Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
0885
THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL

CLUB
22nd floor, Sailing Tower,
111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
2220 2600
spa1960.vn
THE SPA
Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu
Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3514 9007
Saigon Centre, 3M Floor,
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
1800
thespavietnam.com
THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
XUAN SPA
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
1234
hyattpure.com

HCMC
A World
of
Good
International Womens Day: Towards Freedom
nternational Womens Day is a major

day of celebration for the economic,
political and social achievements of
women around the world. Vietnam
has much to celebrate in its efforts to
tackle domestic violence and sexual
discrimination. Commemorative days are
crucial to raising awareness of situations
that affect women and children, like
human trafficking.
Yet, myths in Vietnam persist. Myth
1: Trafficking victims are poor and from
the countryside. Fact: Poverty is often
prevalent in victims backgrounds, but
poverty doesnt cause trafficking and
victims come from all socioeconomic
walks of life. Myth 2: People are only
trafficked for sex. Fact: Exploitation in the
form of involuntary servitude through
force, fraud or coercion affects women,
men, girls and boys who are used for yes,
for sexual exploitation, but also criminal
activity, forced labour, debt bondage, and
early or forced marriage domestically
and internationally. Victims are found
in legitimate and illegitimate industries,
including sweatshops, massage parlours,
nail salons, agriculture, restaurants,
hotels and domestic service. Myth 3: If
the trafficked person agreed to the labour
or the sex then they know better and
By Dana McNairn
pressfoto.com
therefore gave consent. Fact: A victim

cannot give consent because trafficking is
defined by the use of force or deception.
Put another way, UNICEF says two million
kids are sexually exploited around the
world annually. Im fairly sure those
children didnt give consent.
On the upside the Vietnamese
government has passed new anti-trafficking
legislation and a five-year national action
plan on trafficking, but this is not just a
developing world issue. According to the
Human Trafficking Foundation, there are
more people in slavery now globally than
during the entire nearly four centuries of
the transatlantic slave trade.
Take Action
Want to do something? Know that human
trafficking is modern day slavery. Be a
conscientious consumer by encouraging
companies to investigate their supply
chains to eliminate modern day slavery.
Dont buy things from kids on the street
you dont know why theyre really
there. Donate funds, needed items or
hold a fundraiser for an anti-trafficking
organisation. Make anti-trafficking
messages part of your professional
associations, conferences and training.
Be a media activist by joining Twitter
conversations such as #humantrafficking or

#modernslavery.
Above all, educate yourself. Understand
that many overseas trafficked persons
are typically not identified as victims, but
rather as criminals if they dont have legal
identification papers or immigration status.
Anti-Slavery International says this results
in trafficked persons being more likely to
be detained and removed from the country
they were arrested in, rather than being
legally protected. If the victims are not
recognised, then the crime is not recognised
and the criminals go unpunished.
Let us continue to (daily) celebrate the
significant contributions of women and
their inalienable right to freedom from
violence and coercion. We just must also
remember that women, men, girls and
boys everywhere possibly right in your
neighbourhood are being forced against
their will to work illegally in dangerous
and exploitative environments. Like drugs
and arms trafficking, human trafficking is a
market-driven criminal industry based on
supply and demand. Those little girls selling
gum dont seem so cute any more, do they?
Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit
social enterprise and vocational training
programme for at-risk youth. She can be
contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au
HCMC
pham ngu lao
Bakeries / Bars & Clubs / Cafes / Clothing

& Accessories / Crafts & Furniture / Eat /
Galleries
Bakeries
CRUMBS
BAKERY
117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 1992
crumbs.com.vn
Dubbed the local bakery,
Crumbs serves up a variety
of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and
garlicbased buns and loafs,
meatfilled pastries, sweet
pastries, healthconscious
breads and more. There is
also a breakfast menu and
variety of sandwiches available.
TOUS LES JOURS
KOREAN BAKERY
(08) 3914 4350
Bars & Clubs

BIA TUOI 33
BIA HOI
33 Bui Vien, Q1
BREAD & BUTTER
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT
FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8452
With a free book exchange,
and tasty Sunday night
roasts, the tiny Bread &
Butter is a perfect place for
homesick expats and beer
enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served
here exclusively in Ho Chi
Minh City).
GO2
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 9575
GODMOTHER BAR
RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE /
WESTERN
3832 4589
godmothersaigon.com
Only a couple blocks from
the bru-haha of Bui Vien,
Godmothers is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent
mojitos, good food, and the
weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJs.
LE PUB
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
Tel: (08) 3837 7679
Warm colors, artsy dcor
and a friendly ambiance
combine to create a perfect
setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese

cuisine. Check out their daily
drink specials and Tuesday
night pub quizzes.
LONG PHI
FRENCH / RESTOBAR
3837 2704
French-run but universally
appealing, Long Phi has been
serving the backpacker area
with excellent cuisine and
occasional live music since
1990. Excellent late-night
bistro cuisine.
SEVENTEEN SALOON
THEMED MUSIC BAR

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
Wild West-themed bar
doubles as a music venue,
where three talented Filipino
bands (B&U, Wild West and
Most Wanted) play covers of
rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2
and Guns n Roses. Top shelf
spirits and friendly, hostess
style table service are the
name game here.
SPOTTED COW
INTERNATIONAL / SPORT
3920 7670
Alfrescosgroup.com
Spotted Cow delivers the
fun-loving atmosphere that
its playfully decorated black
and white spotted interior
promises, as well as decent
international comfort food,
a range of happy hours, live
sports, and darts.
THE OBSERVATORY
BAR, ART & MUSIC SPACE

Cnr. Le Lai and Ton That
Tung, Q1, Tel: 0906 359440
theobservatory-hcmc.com
The Observatory is DJ Hibiya Line's new youth culture
hub, just off Pham Ngo Lao.
With its two-floor, nook-andcranny setup, it combines
caf culture, cocktails, art,
DJ nights now the home
base for the Optimist Club
live music and various "happenings", sprinkling them
throughout its cozy corners.
THI CAF
LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE

224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2929
T&R TAVERN
DIVE BAR
57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 9839
UNIVERSAL BAR
LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR

90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633
343933
universalbarsaigon.com
Cafes
BOBBY BREWERS
INTERNATIONAL
3920 4090
bobbybrewers.com
Choose from a full range
of caf beverages and a
fast-food style menu as you
watch the latest Hollywood
hits in their upstairs lounge.
Check website for movie locations and schedule.
CHICCO DICAFF CAF
CONTEMPORARY CAF BAR

213 Bui Vien, Pham Ngu Lao,
Q1, Tel: 0902 514757
An up and coming hole-inthe-wall cafe, Chicco Dicaff
serves an extensive menu
of coffee, ice blended drinks,
lattes and Italian sodas at
affordable prices. Delivery
available.
INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347
coffeebean.com.vn

BAM SKATE SHOP
SKATEWEAR / STREET
641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BLUE DRAGON
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2084
8am to 10.30pm
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
LA CANTINA
MARATHON
Sisters Cafe
BUDGET CLOTHING
3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019
PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
papaya-tshirt.com
ORANGE
BUDGET CLOTHING
3820 2620
9am to 10pm
U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:
0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com
Crafts & Furniture

SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 9780
Eat
BABAS KITCHEN

3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian
does the full range of fare
from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka
masala, kormas, kebabs and
fiery vindaloos.
Burrito Revolution
TEX-MEX / STREET STALL

714882
CHIS CAF
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable caf is a rarity
in the backpacker area for
its genuinely good musical
playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked
potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a
popular motorbike rental
service.
CORIANDER
THAI / VIETNAMESE
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837
1311
JJs Fish n Chips
FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL

Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De
Tham, Q1
TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
MARGHERITA
ITALIAN / TEX-MEX
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
VIETNAMESE/WESTERN
Tel: 0903 643446
Light wood paneling, beige
walls and locally themed
artwork help to create a
fresh and airy ambience in
this caf-cum-restaurant
that is owned by the woman
behind Chis Caf. Also does
visa extensions and motorbike rental.
Zeus
GREEK / KEBAB
3837 3248
ZOOM CAF
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures.
com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a caf
and restaurant by day and
a sidewalk drinking joint
by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.
Galleries
GALERIE QUYNH
STELLAR CAFE
ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE
119-121 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3836 9220
Two-storey Stella serves
very reasonable Italian food
antipasti, pasta, pizza,
insalata plus meats and fish
at reasonable prices. Also
has Wi-Fi, cool aircon, and
one of the best lattes around.
Now no-smoking indoors.
THE HUNGRY PIG
BACON BAR / CAFE

3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and
more bacon, all set in airy,
spacious atmosphere, and
you get The Hungry Pig, an
eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty
through to the bacon Caesar.
A popular hangout.
TIN NGHIA
VEGAN
(08) 3821 2538
One of the citys oldest eateries (established in 1925)
does some of the cheapest
and tastiest vegan cuisine in
town, all cooked up without
onions, garlic or MSG.
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)

3836 8019
galeriequynh.com
In addition to working with
artists based in Vietnam,
Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from
around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports
education through talks, lectures and publications.

Tattoo Artists
With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over
the past few years there
has been an increase in
the number of tattoo studios around the city.
Customers have the
choice of picking their
own tattoo out of the
many look books on offer
in the studios or bringing
in their own design. Most
of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.
Pricing depends on size
and style.
Lac Viet Tattoo 608
Dien Bien Phu, Q10

Tel: (08) 3830 4668
106 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: (08) 3821 7068
lacviettattoo.com
Saigon Body Art
135 Cong Quynh, Q1

Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com
Saigon Ink
Wrap & Roll
226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check
out the second floor, junglein-the-wall dcor at this
particular branch. Unique
and refreshing.
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1

Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com
Saigon Tattoo
31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net
Saigon Tattoo Group

81 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn
Tattoo Saigon
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1

Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com
Tattoo Tam Bi
209 Bui Vien, Q1

Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat.com
HCMC
district 1
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
Bars & Clubs / Cafes / Clothing & Accessories /

Cooking Classes / Crafts & Furniture / Eat /
Fitness, Dance & Yoga / Galleries / International
Schools / Medical & Dental / Salons & Spas
CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL

37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1,
Tel: 0906 780081
CHILL SKYBAR
LOUNGE RESTOBAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
Chills view has only been
improved by the addition of
a magnificent VIP terrace.
A substantial wine list and
specialities from the owners
native Denmark complement
the primarily French-influenced cuisine.
HOA VIEN
CZECH BREWHOUSE
28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 8605
hoavien.vn
MZ CLUB
LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB

56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 5258
m-zing.com
Shooters Beer House

31 Le Quy Don, Q1
INTERNATIONAL
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3833 3648
coffeebean.com.vn
DECIBEL
INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense,
this two-floor, relaxed caf
offers beautiful decor and
unique original events like
live music, film screenings,
and art exhibits. Great prices
and food with daily specials.
Vuvuzela

11 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3910 2281
Cafes
(a) cafe
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da
Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701
Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews
in Saigon. Using own grown
and specially sourced Dalat
beans, speciality coffee such
as cold drip, siphon, and
Chemex are must haves for
the avid coffee drinker.
Banksy Cafe
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 01699 990003
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
A small but swanky cafe,
Banksy promises a young
and vibrant hideout in an
old 1960s-era apartment
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH
97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3844 3295
saigongivral.com
KEM NHAN
ICE CREAM PARLOUR

4 Truong Han Sieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6674 6763
I.D. CAF
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben
Thanh Market, i.d offers
casual caf dining with a
wide variety of food and
beverages. Where modern
design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.
LAN MIEN DINING CAFE
FRENCH
112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6291 2067
The Other Person Cafe

2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
Fancy being served up by
maids in costume? Call for
a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking
while spending an afternoon
in this candy-land inspired
cafe.
Things Cafe
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
Feel the calm and serenity
of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old
Apartment. The quaint and
relaxing atmosphere sets for
some alone time, or quality
conversations held over a
drink or two.

BOO
STREETWEAR
134 Nguyen Trai, Q1
boo.vn
BOSSINI
UNISEX CASUAL WEAR

22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3839 2292
Bossini.com
CHILDRENS PLANET
CHILDRENS CLOTHING
90 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08)
3820 9881
childrenplanet.com.vn
Du
Th
i
Le
Huu
C
g
ng
Ng
uy
en
ng
Th
an
g8
Le
Lo
i
Ma
cT
ha
n
Ng
uy
en
an
Mockingbird Cafe
4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
Sitting atop of a number of
cafe establishments in an old
apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a
romantic time over mojitos,
or good ol caffeine-infused
relaxation.
Bi
e
ie
n
District
10
Kh
ai
Ph
Beer and Grill (BG Saigon)
LE PETIT CAF
Ca
ch
Tr
u
Du
h
an
Ng
.H
ue
Ham Nghi
District 2
Da
o
QUAN NHAU
18A/31/B22 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, Q1
159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,

Tel: 0918 115657
cafethoaivien.com
Veer off the street and find
yourself plunging straight
into lush greenery. Cafe
Thoai Vien serves up a
spacious and airy setting
to enjoy a quiet sip. From
small eats to big bites and
everything to drink, its a
great place to unwind from
all that buzz.
District 3
Hu
ng
ANH DUCS
Cafe Thoai Vien
Ha
i
Ba
t
Kie
n
Va
Tr
an

79 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, Tel:
0919 584884
info@ahoybeerclub.vn
76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821

2718
The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of
this popular, contemporary
caf. Enjoy live music on
weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese
or espresso-based coffee.
To
n
Ho
Ahoy Beer Club
building. Remember to head

up the steep stairs within to
dig into their secret stash of
clothes and accessories.
an
g
in
h
en
Ti
Bars & Clubs
Binh Thanh
in
h
District 4
Vo
DBLANC
WOMENS CLOTHING
89A Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 5164
d-blanc.com
GAYA CLOTHING
HAND-MADE / DESIGNER
Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van
Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925
1495
Gayavietnam.com
Clothing is designed and
tailor-made by renowned
designer Romyda Keth, and
concentrates mainly on
womens wear. Gaya sells
colourful, sexy evening
dresses, embroidered floral
skirts and cute chiffon tops.
MARIPOSA
BOUTIQUE LADIES WEAR

3925 9993
mariposa.vn
THUY NGA DESIGN
BUSINESSWEAR / CASUAL
19-21 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3820 3574
thuyngadesign.com
8am to 8pm
Cooking Classes
OVERLAND CLUB
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm
The Overland Club organises
pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
monthly special activities,
such as the Soba Festival,
pottery painting classes, the
art of decorating paper and
multinational cuisine days.
Crafts & Furniture

GAYA
CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 1495
gayavietnam.com
Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II
buildings in the city, Gaya has
a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps
and tableware, with all products both constructed and
designed locally. You can
find a wide range of mirrors
and lacquerware with bowls,
vases and contemporary
Asian-style boxes as well as
a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all
colours and designs. Prices
here match the quality of the
products.
VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN
DECO / REPRO FURNITURE

152 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925
3648
verlimdesign.com
Eat
Cobalt
ROOFTOP RESTOBAR
Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon
Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686
pullman-saigon-centre.com
A tapas-style contemporary
international menu in an
equally modern chic space,
Cobalt also has panoramic
views over the city thanks to
its 30th-floor location. Has a
focus on wine matching and
tasting. A hotel restaurant
with a difference.
COM TAM THUAN KIEU
COM TAM (BITTY RICE)

26 Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 0935
comtamthuankieu.com.vn
DYNASTY
CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Elegant surroundings, top
quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable,
roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese
restaurants in town, with a
classic dim sum menu.
BANH XEO 46A
BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE

46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 1110
CAF IF
VIETNAMESE FRENCH
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3846 9853
MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a
French twist, cooked fresh
to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and
beef stew, stir fries, hot pots
and curries.
LION CITY
SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery,
plating up the likes of nasi
lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well
as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish
head curry.
HCMC
MAY RESTAURANT
INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE
3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08)
3910 1277
May-cloud.com
Meaning Cloud, May utilises homemade recipes
and broths developed by the
restaurateurs father, such
as pan-fried duck breast
served with nuoc mam and
ginger, and 1940s style
spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in
an Indochine atmosphere.
MONSOON
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)
6290 8899
Traditional pan-Southeast
Asian favourites served in
a visually arresting setting
within a French colonial-era
villa, just minutes from the
backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy
juices and smoothies.
NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE
AMERICAN / FRENCH
2527 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373
steakhouse.com.vn
NYSW is well known for
serving up formidable prime
signature cuts of New York
strip steak, rib eye, double
strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.
PARKVIEW
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Flagship restaurant of The
New World Hotel, serving
lavish buffets all day. Many
cooking stations ranging
from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads,
cold cuts, cheese plates and
desserts.
PHAP HOA
VEGETARIAN
3839 5893
QUAN BUI
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3602 2241
Make sure to try the sauted
shrimps with cashew nuts
and crispy fried tofu with
lime wedge, at this popular,
high-quality eatery where all
food is served in traditional
crockery.
TAN HAI VAN
PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES
3925 0824
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH

DAN
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 7751

STAR FITNESS GYM
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91
Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253
Steve Chipman, who had a
hand in establishing gyms
at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness one of
Vietnams largest and bestequipped gyms.
THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & POOL

Ruby Towers Saigon
Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514
9009
saigonriverclub.com
Galleries
CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel:
0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Located in a quiet corner
of District 1, Craig Thomas
Gallery offers a compelling
mix of up-and-coming and
established local artists. In
operation since 2009, its
founder has been promoting
Vietnamese art for a decade.
SAN ART
3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel:
(08) 3840 0183
San-art.org
San Art is an independent,
artist-run exhibition space
that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an
exchange programme that
invites international artists/
curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
CITYSMART
Horizon Tower, 214 Tran
Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3526 8833
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational
programmes, as well as life
skills and character building
for comprehensive development.
GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF

VIETNAM
Somerset Chancellor Court,
1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
7008
gymboreeclasses.com.vn
VAS
23 Tran Cao Van, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 7278
vas.edu.vn
VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE

TRAINING AND TRANSLATION
08-66780914
mail@vnccent
re.com
Medical
& Dental
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 4545
Well-regarded clinic offering
general examinations and
specialising in pediatrics,
digestive diseases, cardiology, womens health and
internal medicine. Offers a
membership programme
and cooperates with most
insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.
WE LINK
COUNSELLING
64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 2900
contact@welink.vn
Psychological counselling services for individual,
group and family. Diverse
counsellors and therapists,
using Cognitive Behaviour
Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For
adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French
and Spanish spoken.
Salons & Spas
CAT MOC SPA

63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)
6295 8926
catmocspa.com
Aimed exclusively at ladies
and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa
include facial, body and foot
care, and Japanese-style
haircuts, as well as steamsauna, paraffin and waxing
services.
SPA TROPIC
79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910

5575
spatropic.com
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean
Consulate. Spa Tropic has
a long-standing reputation
among expats and visitors
alike for its professional
quality service.
37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel:
HCMC
furniture. All products are
samples, so its limited and
exclusive with only one or
two pieces of each particular
item. Also has a great range
of imported fabrics up on the
2nd floor and an in-house
sewing room for cushions,
sofas and curtains. Offers
custom-made furniture and
delivery within four weeks.
Home dcor orders are also
available.
district 2
Bakeries / Bars & Clubs / Cafes / Clothing & Accessories / Crafts

& Furniture / Eat / Fitness, Dance & Yoga / Groceries, Liquor &
Wine / Hairdressers / International Schools / Medical & Dental /
Salons & Spas
DISTRICT 2
g
H n
Ni
H
h
Bn
Thao Dien
i
Qu
Ng
uy
n
V
n
Xa
Binh Thanh
Ngu
o
ng
c H
Qu
n
N
Xun Th
y
Xun Th
Tr
Bakeries
BAKEUP ATELIER
BAKERY
Tel: (08) 6281 8392
The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien,
Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries
such as croissants, pain au
chocolat, pain raisins, pizza
dough, pates feuillete and
much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc,
Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and
Ho Chi Minh City.
LOAVES & FISHES
BAKERY / CAFE
5, Street 11, Thao Dien, Q2
Tel: (08) 3519 4118
harvestbaking.net
PAT A CHOU
FRENCH BAKERY
25 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3743 2445

DISTRICT 2
SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE
3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
A bar and a Thai restaurant
all in one, the focus here is
not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live
sports. Lots of live sports.
The Thai cuisine is cooked
up by no-holds-barred Thai
chefs.

BMV PUB & GRILL

38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel:
01299 839314
facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill
With its seven TVs, full-size
mezzanine area, pool table
and aircon lounge space,
BMV is the perfect place in
District 2 to relax and watch
the sports. Has live music on
Thursday and Friday nights,
and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in
Thao Dien.
VOELKER
BAKERY
6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
Frenchrun bakery selling
probably the tastiest range
of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passionfruit tart is
a must try.
Bars & Clubs

BAAN THAI
g
n Hon
Hu Cnh
Ni
nh
Song H
Nguy
n
uy
Ng
Xa
nh
Song H
n No
Xa
No
Trn
RESTOBAR
3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
Just across the lane from
McSorleys, this pub with an
eccentric European tilt and
some nice, authentic cuisine
draws an older crowd with
darts, pool and weekly poker
tourneys.
HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese
furniture brand is a good
choice for most families
with its respected high-quality designs and competitive
prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and
Dien Bien Phu, the spacious
showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such
as table sets, shelves and
kitchen cabinets. There is a
large selection of carpets as
well as numerous choices of
curtains and accessories.
FEELING TROPIC
MCSORLEYS
IRISH BAR
4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126
9026006
Standing in the former home
of Gaudi, McSorelys is full of
surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool,
reggae parties, comedy
nights, and sporting events
projected onto the patio wall.
and intimate.
CAF EVITA
LAID-BACK CAF / RESTAURANT

230A Nguyen Van Huong,
Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512
3888

LITTLE ANH-EM
SAIGON OUTCAST
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAF BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com
Up-cycling and innovative
design form the foundation
for this bar / arts venue /
mini- skate park. Come for
barbeque and reasonably
priced drinks, stick around
for entertaining events and
adorable puppies.
Cafes
AGNES CAFE
BUDDHA BAR
Th
Binh Thanh
Mai Ch
ng
H
y n Vn
Th
CHI LAI
COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable cafe
in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat,
smoothies, juices, pastries
and desserts all day. Offers
a western-fare breakfast,
lunch and dinner menu with
a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with
salads and more typical
international cuisine. Now
open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: 0917 567506
In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies
and children up to 10 years
old, Little Anh-Em stocks
sleeping bags and other accessories.
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
Crafts & Furniture

AUSTIN HOME
REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

3519 0023
Austinhomevn.blogspot.com
Located in a villa-style
building, this An Phu-based
shop stocks antique repro
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181
8am to 6pm, closed Sundays
Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this
three-storey building is so
packed full of items for sale
that it doesnt seem to have
enough space for all of its
products. The basement
storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets,
while the second level stocks
all types of indoor furniture
except beds. Accessories
are found on the level above.
Special orders are taken for
delivery within three weeks.
Also offers a rental service.
THE FURNITURE HOUSE
HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643
Eat
AGNES CAF
CAF FARE / TEX-MEX

11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable caf
offering up a western-fare
breakfast, lunch and dinner
menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in
with salads and more typical
international cuisine. Open
until 10pm.
BAAN THAI
PAN-THAI
3744 5453
Shopping Malls
Diamond Plaza
34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08)
3825 7750
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
Hung Vuong Plaza

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel:
(08) 2222 0383
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
Parkson Plaza
35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3827 7636
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
Saigon Centre
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)
3829 4888
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
Saigon Square
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,
Q1
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics
Saigon Tax
Trading Centre
135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3821 3849
9am to 9.30pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics, Souvenirs,
Restaurant
Vincom Center
70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3936 9999
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
Zen Plaza
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel:
(08) 3925 0339
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
baanthai-anphu.com
Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this
An Phu eatery. The menu
has a whole page dedicated
to tom yum soup as well
as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine
cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.
HCMC
SPORTS
BOAT HOUSE
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790
Live music, mini-festivals
and functions are regular events at this spacious
restobar in An Phu on the
banks of the Saigon river.
The menu offers seasonal
dishes, classic mains and
sharing plates.
BUN DAU MAMA LAM
BUN DAU / BUN BO HUE

40 Quoc Huong, Q2
COM TAM 40A
COM TAM
40A Quoc Huong, Q2
Cricket
ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET
CLUB OF SAIGON)
Richard Carrington, Tel:
0909 967 353
richard.carrington@market-edge.asia
eccsaigon.com
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF

SAIGON)
Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228
770 038
deepteshgill@gmail.com
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN

SAIGON)
Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
973 244
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON

CRICKET CLUB)
Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail.
com
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA

CRICKET CLUB)
Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903
998 824
sacccricket@gmail.com
SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)
Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB)

Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908
200 598
manish@ambrij.com
Football
and
Rugby
024 or Viet Luu 0909 500

171.
astere@hotmail.fr
SAIGON RAIDERS
Saigonraiders.com
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
saigonrugbyfootballclub@
yahoo.com
SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
Sports General
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS

LEAGUE
thesidl.com
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL

CLUB
saigonshootersnetball.
blogspot.com
La Closerie dElisa
FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT

52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2
A tropical garden ambience
that is at once French yet
contemporary Indochinese
is the home of this table
dhote style restaurant and
bar. Classic French cuisine
at reasonable prices in the
heart of Thao Dien.
LA PLANCHA
(08) 6281 8521
LU BU
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08)
6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
Drawing inspiration from
the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean
and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run
restaurant bathed in white
focuses on wholesome,
fresh ingredients, with
breads, cheeses, pickles,
pastas and preserves made
on site daily from scratch. A
well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.
Has petanque on the terrace.
28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)

7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
SQUASH
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext 176
TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

436A/33 Ba Thang Hai,
Q10, Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van

Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon
River across from Thanh
Da Island, this innovative
restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a
Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails
and a long wine list.
THE LOOP
HEALTHY CAF FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)
3602 6385

AQUAFIT
AQUABIKING
65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao
Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
008985
aquafit.vn
BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS / FITNESS

49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel:
0947 771326
cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An Phu,
started by fitness guru Cyril
Terrones, features the same
personalised mentorship
Cyrils clients love. Includes
Zumba, salsa, boxing and
fitness for kids and adults
every day. No membership
fees. Pay for classes in installments of 10.
K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY
BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS

100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: 0909 540030
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also
offering fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving caloriecalibrated meals.
Groceries, Liquor & Wine

100%
DANCENTER
DANCE & PERFORMANCE

(08) 3519 4490
info@dancentervn.com
dancentervn.com
A professionally run dance
studio close to District 1.
Children age 4+ can learn
jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop,
acro dance and break dance,
while adult classes are available from beginner to advanced. International team
of qualified dance instructors. Free trial first week of
the month for newcomers.
MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES

26B Thao Dien, Q2
100percentvn.com
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2630
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from
the likes of Fauchon. The
deli upstairs in the Hai Ba
MEKONG MERCHANT
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE /

SEAFOOD
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6478
info@mekongmerchant.com
The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the
place in An Phu. Set around
a cobble-stoned courtyard
the cuisine includes gourmet
seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.
PAPAGAYO
gauloisdesaigon.com
XROCK CLIMBING
FRENCH BISTRO / COCKTAILS

(08) 6252 1333
facebook.com/papagayosaigon
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON
7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,

Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
TAMAGO
Contact Fred on 0919 709
THE DECK
CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY
AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:

(08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag
in Thao Dien, Tamago has
indoor and out door seating,
a terrace and private rooms.
They have a ladies night on
Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on
Saturday evenings. Have a
second restaurant in Mui Ne.
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE
HCMC
Trung branch serves tasty
baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free
WiFi, and offers probably
the best selection of cheese
and cured meats in town.
Free delivery for Districts 1,
2 and 3.
CLASSIC FINE FOODS
GROCERIES & IMPORTER

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street),
Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the citys five
star hotels, also distributing
brands like San Pellegrino,
Rougie foie gras, Galbani
cheese, fresh poultries,
meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all
the products at the gourmet
shop on location.
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP
Corner of Thao Dien & Duong
2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines
with a portfolio spanning
old and new world as well
as everything in between.
The outdoor terrace area is
the perfect spot to sample a
new tipple.
Hairdressers
ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON
HAIR & BEAUTY
Fideco Riverview Building,
3744 6475
anthony@aglondonsalon.
com.vn
CONCEPT COIFFURE
(08) 3519 4625
Conceptcoiffure.vn
Open daily from 9am to 8pm
Hair stylist and colourist
specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing
flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien.
A full range of services is offered including a dedicated
kids salon.
AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (AIS)
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744
6960; Thu Thiem Campus,
264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West
Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International
School is an IB World School
with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering
an international education
from kindergarten to senior
school with the IB Primary
Years Programme (PYP),
Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE)
and IB Diploma Programme
(DP).

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (BIS)
Tel: (08) 3744 2335
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved
by the British Government,
BIS provides a British style
curriculum for an international student body from
pre-school to Year 13. The
school is staffed by British
qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by
the Council of International
Schools and a member of
FOBISIA, BIS is the largest
international school in Vietnam.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI

MINH CITY (ISHCMC)
(08) 3898 9100
ishcmc.com
The only fully authorized IB
World School in Ho Chi Minh
City, ISHCMC has been
awarding graduates with an
IB Diploma and sending them
off to high-profile overseas
universities since 1999.
MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage childrens engagement with
their surroundings, MIS
offers children from age
three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as
a variety of extracurricular
activities.
SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL

CHILDCARE CENTRE
15 Street 12, perpendicular
to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
3740 8081
saigonkidskindergarten.
com
SKECC has evolved over 10
years to create a creative,
playful learning environment for children ages two
to six. Limited class sizes and
highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for
all students.
SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL
Residential Area No. 5,
Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge
International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates
Montessori methods into
nursery and kindergarten
programmes to create a
stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes
allow experienced teachers
to cater to individual needs.
SMARTKIDS
1172 Thao Dien Compound,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare
centre provides children
ages 18 months to six years
with a high quality education
in a playful and friendly environment.
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL

OF VIETNAM
172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
theamericanschool.edu.vn

Medical & Dental

3744 2000
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
GREGORY BEALE
THERAPY
01268 654 202
gregbealetherapyfitness.
com

Salons & Spas

AUTHENTIC SPA
Thao Dien Village, Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744
2222
AVEDA HERBAL SPA

Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON

104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321
district 3
Bars & Clubs / Cafes & Ice-Cream / Clothing & Accessories /

Crafts & Furniture / Eat / Fitness, Dance & Yoga / Hairdressers /
International Schools / Medical & Dental / Salons & Spas
Bars & Clubs
ACOUSTIC
LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3930 2239
Though only 1km from the
city centre, Acoustic is well
off most foreigners radars.
Come see the Vietnamese
house band play nightly, as
well as performances from
overseas bands and guest
artists.
CLOUD 9
LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE

6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong
Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel:
0907 502951
CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS
LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE

224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948
031323
METALLIC BAR
MUSIC BAR / CAFE

41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3154
metallicbar.com
Showcases a variety of different types of music anything from rock, pop and rap
to Latino as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica,
Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana
and Guns n Roses. Covered
live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music
starts at 8.30pm.
PLAN B
CONTEMPORARY BAR
0987 684761
ROCKFANCLUB BAR
ROCK BAR
25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08)
6290 7489
Cafes & Ice-Cream

ANS INTERIOR CAF
40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3823 3398
BUDS
ICE-CREAM PARLOUR
Tel: (08) 3932 2778
budsicecream.com.vn
HIDEAWAY
INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building
with an outdoor courwrd,
the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to
relax. The mouth-watering

western menu is on the expensive side.
OPERATION: TEAROOM
TEA ROOM
335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3,
Tel: 0169 3583563
operationteavietnam.com
Traverse a wooden bridge
over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000,
in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware
available for purchase.

BAM SKATE SHOP
SKATEWEAR / STREET
0903 641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BOO
STREETWEAR
187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3

boo.vn
Crafts
& Furniture
ATC FURNITURE
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08)
39326455
SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)
38403946
atc-craft.com
Filled with the scent of
nature, is it what you are
looking for to spice up the
living space of your home?
Come to ATC FURNITURE,
you will find a wide range of
modern-designed products
(sofas, chairs, beds...) manufactured from eco-friendly
materials (water hyacinth &
rattan). Our outdoor (poly
rattan) wicker-furniture
range is suited to your balcony or garden space. A
hanging (hammock) chair
is irresistible for complete
relaxation after a long day
at work.
REMIX DECO
INDOOR FURNITURE
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com
Eat
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN / BUFFET
3820 7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Latino ambiance with great
meat dishes and attractive,
spacious dcor. The churrasco, with 12 cuts of barbecued and cured meats
plus unlimited salad, is hand
carved at your table. Can
get busy.
Banh Canh Hoang Ty
BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930
3917
Namsonsteak.com
HIGHWAY 4
NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE
101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)
3602 2069
highway4.com
Named after the mountain
highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to
the north, Highway 4 serves
up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does
excellent Son Tinh branded
rice wine.
JOIE DE VIVRE
WESTERN / FRENCH
292/10, Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066
facebook.com/joie.vn
PHO HOA
PHO EATERY
260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3829 7943
SHRI
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower,
7274 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
A breezy terrace, indoor
bar and separate dining
room with sweeping views
over central Saigon make
up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought
out and romantic venue, with
excellent food.
SUSHI DINING AOI
SUSHI / SASHIMI
53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh
Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930
0039
sushidiningaoi.com
HUE / VIETNAMESE
(08) 3829 7242
Tibrestaurant.com.vn
MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA
CITYSMART
SAIGON BELLY DANCE
7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational
programmes, as well as life
skills and character building
for comprehensive development.
VAS
Hairdressers
YKC HAIR STUDIO
(08) 3829 2791

S
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98 Cach Mang Thang Tam,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278
vas.edu.vn
Medical & Dental

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC
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BELLY DANCE
No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do
Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832
9429
saigonbellydance.com
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YOGA
107/39 Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel:
0909 648193
michellelloyd.com
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INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
The worlds leading provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7
emergency care. Specialist
care is available in many
fields.
STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC
(08) 3932 1090
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Medical Clinic
offers services in internal
medicine, dermatology,
aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general
medicine.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE
L
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Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
vietchay.vn
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Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi,

sashimi, and other dishes
such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles
in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set
lunches. Probably the best
sushi in town.
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INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC

MEDICAL CLINIC
Binh Thanh
2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222
starlightdental.net
Longestablished, modern
clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese
dentists. A favourite of the
foreign residential community due to its modern and
effective treatments allied
with extremely reasonable
prices.
AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC
CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
A clinic provides world class
Chiropractic, Physiotherapy
and Foot Care. We specialize
in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee
pain, sports injuries, and all
types of foot problems. We

also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome
in children and adult.
INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL

CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
Globally renowned provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare
offers full dental services
in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide
high skilled dental service.
Orthodontics is also available.
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

(08) 3932 1090
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL
EASTERN MEDICINE
Tel: (08) 3932 6579
Salons & Spas

AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
YKC SPA
(08) 3829 2791
ykcspa.com
HCMC
Food Promos
www.pressfoto.com
Romantic Earth Hour

@Hotel Equatorial
equatorial.com/hcm
From 8.30pm to 9.30pm on Mar. 29, the
lights will go down and the candles will
come out all over Ho Chi Minh City to
mark Earth Hour 2014, an environmental
awareness-raising campaign celebrated
the world over. Hotel Equatorial wants
to ask, why waste such an opportunity
for romance at home? This Earth Hour
both Chit Chat and Orientica will
celebrate the occasion in their own way,
with dinners priced at VND798,000++
including a free flow of wine and beer in
Chit Chats case, and a complimentary

glass of champagne at Orientica.
perfection by Chills top-tier bar staff.
Aloha Cocktail Feast
Half Off Singapores National

Dish
@Chill Saigon
chillsaigon.com
For the jolly types out there, Chill is a
happy hour or nightcap stop most nights.
Now on Mondays, from 8pm to 11pm
every Monday, Chill is offering five
speciality cocktails in the tiki tradition at
VND150,000++ each. Youll find ample
islandy tastes and fruit juices splashed
among mixologist favourites like
Aperol and Pampero Rum, tweaked to
@Lion City
lioncity.com.vn
If youve been waiting till now to try
Lion Citys legendary frog porridge
one of Singapores national dishes we
dont know what to tell you. Except this:
for the first time, Lion Citys daily 50
percent-off dish is this clay pot-delivered
delicacy. Try it now, and keep it in your
repertoire for when you next splash out
on Singaporean cuisine.
phu my hung
CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My
Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277
The-crescent.com
Overlooking the Crescent
complexs lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a
gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track
their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash
courts, pool, steam bath and
nutrition bar.
Bakeries / Bars & Clubs / Crafts & Furniture / Eat / Fitness, Dance
& Yoga / International Schools / Medical & Dental
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INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS

206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel:
01654 058401 / 01629
546534
cezsaigon@gmail.com
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DISTRICT 7
PHU MY HUNG
Bakeries
LAMOUR
BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn
SAVOURE
BAKERY
Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7
SIMRANS
BAKERY
SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908
828552
simrans.sg
Bars & Clubs

BANANA BAR
EXPAT BAR
SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3282
A downstairs pool table, an
open, street side terrace and
specials on Tiger draft, this
fun but slightly run-down
joint is a local haunt for many
a resident of Saigon South.
PEACHES
CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
0999
Known as the Curry Pub,
this pleasant Saigon South
watering hole mixes the beer
with all things curry anything from Goan fish curries
to beef rendangs and more.
A popular local haunt.
RUBY SOHO
CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 3900
THE TAVERN
EXPAT & SPORTS BAR
R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang
Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
3900
The first bar established in
Saigon South, great food,
great music and loads of
laughs. Has regular live
music nights, theme nights
and a variety of live sports
events to please everybody.
Big screens and outdoor
seating add to the mix, with
BBQs available for parties
and events.

Crafts & Furniture

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton
Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413
7355
bellavitafurniture.com
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110; S17 Sky
Garden, Nguyen Van Linh,
Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758
mekong-creations.org
at their stateoftheart
campus.
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen
Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271
7758
mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6657
www.nhaxinh.com
Eat
spicy sausage, skewers,

burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304
MING DYNASTY
LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE

23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 5555

BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON
INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and
bar on The Crescent with
great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned
international fare, all set in
a contemporary, spacious
environment.
CHAM CHARM
LUXURY INDOCHINA
2 Phan Van Chuong, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 9999
EL GAUCHO
Unit CR1-12, The Crescent,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
NATHALIES
THAI / VIETNAMESE
S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 0822
nathaliesrestaurant.com
SALT & PEPPER
ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son,
Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, Tel:
(08) 5431 1833
theabcis.com
Serving students from 32
nations, ages two to 18, ABC
delivers a curriculum wholly
based on UK standards, culminating in IGCSEs and A
levels (awarded upon graduation by Cambridge University examinations board).
CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
13C Phong Phu Commune,
Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412
3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam
serves local and foreign
students from Kindergarten
to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the
internationally recognised
Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting
academic excellence.
KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE
PAN-ITALIAN
The Crescent, Phu My Hung,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 4848
Crescent Residence 2, 107

Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907
099 480
kindermusik-vietnam.com
SCOTT AND BINHS
LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL

KINDERGARTEN
INTERNATIONAL
15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948
901465
bizuhotel.com/main/pages/
scottbinhs.php
Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this
restaurant boasts a full bar,
ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus
on the creative use of local
ingredients.
102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung,

Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052
lgkids.vn
RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL SAIGON (RISS)
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel:
(08) 3773 3171
rissaigon.edu.vn
RISS provides students from
over 25 nations with a British / international education.
Students ages two to 18 enjoy classes taught by qualified native English speakers
SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (SSIS)
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
Offers an American-style
education (SAT, IB and AP)
from elementary to highschool, emphasizing a multicultural student environment and a commitment to
wellrounded education at
all levels.
Medical & Dental
American Eye Center

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7
Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759
www.americaneyecentervn.
com
American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My
Hung, providing eye care
services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist
with 17 years of experience.
The American-standard
facility is equipped with
state of the art equipments
for the early detection and
treatment of important eye
diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic
eye disease treatments.
Cosmetic procedures such
as eyelid surgery and Botox
injections are also available.
FV HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 3333
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital
whose standard of health
care matches that found
anywhere, with 19 fulltime
French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing
expertise in 30 medical and
surgical areas, especially
maternity care.
HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,
Tel: 0906 684 969

simply email us on
well try our best
Bc Ha
Vit Nam
Word tr chuyn vi nhip nh
gia kim ch nh hng ti Hi An,
Rhahn Croquevielle, cng l tc
gi ca cun sch Vit Nam: Mt
bc tranh ca s tng phn
i nhip nh gia u hiu c s kh

khn ca cng vic bin tp nh.
l mt cng vic mit mi khng ch
lin quan ti vic chnh sa, lm vic
vi nhng phn mm Lighroom, Bridge hoc
Photoshop. N lin quan ti vic lc trong s
khi lng nh s ra mt b su tp nh,
mt lng nh c th s dng c v c la
chn hon ho.
i vi Rhahn, cng vic ny kh cng phu.
Ch hn mt nm Vit Nam, anh c 30.000
bc nh chp trn khp c nc. Khi anh quyt
nh s tp hp li thnh mt quyn sch vi tn
gi Vit Nam: Mt bc tranh ca s tng phn,
anh phi bin tp xung cn 145 bc nh.
Vic ny rt kh, anh ni. Ti mt hai thng
cho ln lc nh u tin. Ti ngh rng mi
vic u tt p, nhng ri li nhn ra mnh mi
lc ra c 300 bc, v c ngha rng ti phi
tip tc loi i mt na trong s !
Sinh ra v ln ln ti Normandy, cng ging
nh nhiu ngi ri t nc ca mnh n
vi nhng x s khc, Rhahn ti Vit Nam
tm nhng c hi mi. i qua trn 30 nc,
cng i nhiu, anh cng t c mun tr v Php.
V th, nm 2012, anh quyt nh nm ly c
hi v chuyn ti sng ti Hi An khi tui 32.
Anh cng m mt nh hng tn l ENJOY (tm
dich: Thng thc), ti y va c mt ca hng

sch nh, va l mt phng trng by tranh.
Sau khi ri b cng vic vn phng nhm
chn, anh c c mt c hi mi c i
du lch v theo ui nim am m nhip nh ca
mnh. Kt qu l anh c mt tc phm vi
nhng bc nh v Vit Nam trong qu kh, n
tng ca mt t nc vi nhiu iu s sm
khng cn tn ti.
Ta ca cun sch c hm g vy?
Vit Nam l mt bc tranh vi nhng mu sc,

s tng phn, nh sng v nhng dn tc khc
nhau. Hng trm nhng khun mt khc nhau,
hon ton khc bit to nn mt t nc. Cng
ging nh phong cnh y. Mu xanh ca bin
Bi Sao Ph Quc, mu ca nhng tha rung
M Cng Chi hay Sa Pa, mu ca nhng
cn ct Mi N, mu vng ca nhng bc
tng ti Hi An, hay k c mu trng ca nhng
cnh ng mui Nha Trang. Tt c u to nn
mt t nc ny.
Rt nhiu tc phm ca anh s dng nh chn
dung. iu g lm anh c ngun cm hng
nh vy nhng gng mt ca con ngi
y? Mt bc nh chn dung tt l mt bc chp
c sp t hay nn l t nhin?
Ti ngh c mt bc nh chn dung p,
bn phi mt nhiu thi gian vi n. Mt bc

chn dung p khng th ch c c trong vng
5 pht. i khi ti mt ti mt ting chp
nhn vt ca mnh.
Ti l ngi rt thch giao tip. Ti thch tm
hiu, hc hi v khm ph v nhng ngi m
ti lm vic vi. Kt qu l mi khonh khc
ti chp u t nhin v n trong lc ti ni
chuyn vi h. i vi ti, mt bc chn dung
tt bao gm hai nhn vt: mt ngi l mu v
ngi kia chnh l ngi chp. Chnh s giao

tip v chuyn tr gia hai ngi s to ra
mt hiu ng t nhin.
Lm sao anh c th tm hiu v nhn vt ca

mnh? Anh c ni ting Vit khng hay anh c
phin dch?
Ti ang hc ting Vit v i khi ti i du lch
vi ngi bn Vit Nam. Ti tip xc vi nhiu
ngi Vit nhiu tng lp nn ti hc c
cch lm quen vi h. Bn cn c thi gian
lm vic ny. V khi h nghe thy ngi nc
ngoi ni chuyn bng ting Vit, h thng
ci ph ln v nh th nhiu cnh ca c
m ra.
Nhng bc nh v cuc sng hng ngy

trong cun sch ca anh c v kh tp trung
vo khu vc nng thn Vit Nam. Ti sao anh
chn nhng vng qu v nhng ngi dn
tc thiu s hn l cuc sng nhng thnh
ph ln?
Ti khng thch cuc sng nhng thnh ph

ln, v ti ngh chng ang bt u ging vi
nhng thnh ph cc nc pht trin. Ngoi
ra, ngi ta khng c nhiu thi gian dng
li v chuyn tr, hoc ngay khi h c th, h
cng i phi tr tin. nhng vng ni, chng
ta c th tm thy mt Vit Nam rt truyn thng
v tht th nhng trang phc sc s, con ngi
sng chm v du dng. H c nhiu thi gian
tr chuyn vi bn hn. Ti cng rt thch nhng
khun mt ca nhng ngi dn tc: nc da,
mu mt v c nhng khun mt c ru. Ti
thch i trn chic xe my ti nhng vng xa xi,
ni khng c nhiu ngi ti.
C phi mc ch ca cun sch ca anh l

th hin mt Vit Nam ca hin ti hay l
mt Vit Nam ang dn b mt i?
Ti ngh rng tht khng may mn cho nhng

nhip nh gia v nhng du khch, nhng dn tc
thiu s ang dn ha ln vo cuc sng ca i
a s. Rt nhiu ngi t b trang phc ca
h v thay vo h mua qun b hay o phng.
y l iu khng trnh khi. Trong tng lai,
khng ai s cn mc nhng trang phc thiu s
na mc d chng rt sc s v tht p.
Anh bt u cng vic chp nh ca mnh

nh th no?
Ti bt u vic chp nh ny 3 nm trc y,

nhng ti ch thc s nghin cu su v n khi
ti chuyn ti Hi An. Trc y ti khng c
nhiu thi gian. Khi bn ch chp nh trong vng
5 tun khi bn i ngh mi nm ( Php, iu
ny l bnh thng), bn khng c thi gian
nng cao tay ngh ca mnh. Tuy nhin y ti
c th chp nh hng thng, i khi l hng tun.
Anh c li khuyn no cho nhng ai mun

bt u ngh nhip nh?
iu ny ph thuc vo vic ngi mun lm

vic g. Quy tc ln nht ca ti l: Luyn tp!
c sch v nhng k thut chp hay ni chuyn
trn nhng forum khng c nhiu tc dng, Tuy
nhin, ly camera ra v chp, chnh l lc bn
c th tin b nhiu.
bit thm thng tin hoc mua cun sch
ny, bn c th vo rehahnphotographer.com hoc
facebook.com/Rehahn.Photography
Lng Ti
Bn thy g v mt lng qu truyn thng min Bc qua mt

gnh xic Vit Nam? Mt ci g rt l.
hc n gnh xic, hu ht chng

ta u ngh ti nhng dng c phc
tp, nhng pha nguy him to bo v
nhng trang phc lng ly. Chng ta
tng tng n nhng mu sc sng ng
v pha mo him cht ngi lm khn gi hi
hp nn th. Nhng bui biu din xic Lng
Ti - sn phm tr tu ca i ng sng to
Show c biu din ti Nh ht ln Thnh
ph H Ch Minh trong thng ny li khng
ging nh hu ht cc bui biu din xic khc.
Cng ging nh nhng chng trnh xic
khc, Lng Ti c phn m u thng thng
bng mn nho ln v ri khc bit hon ton.
Nhng mu sc sng ng v ho nhong ang
thay th bng mn tung hng nhng con dao
sc nhn mu nu t y cng thng. N n
gin, nhng n c ch . Mc d Lng Ti gii
thiu cc pha nho ln nguy him tuyt p
lm nhiu ngi hi hp kh th, nhng trn
ht chng trnh vn l v vn ha v lch s
ca nng thn min Bc Vit Nam, ni m s
n gin ng tr tuyt i.
Mt Gc Nhn Khc
"Nhng mu sc v [pha nguy him] trong

chng trnh c ly cm hng t cng vic
hng ngy ca ngi dn a phng v trong
[cnh quan thin nhin] min bc Vit Nam,"
gim c sng to L Tun, cng l gim c
ng ng sau , cho hay. Hp tc vi Nht
L, Nguyn Ln v Tn Lc, L Tun bt u
d n Lng Ti vo nm 2005 vi mt dn
din vin hon ton n t Lin on Xic

Vit Nam. Trong nm 2009, dn din vin ca
chng trnh bt u mt lot cc bui biu
din vi s lng ln hn 300 bui trn th
gii, v ch gn y tr li sn khu Si Gn
nm 2014.
Ging nh Show, Lng Ti s dng ch
yu l tre v lm vic cng nhau trong nhng
pha nguy him nho ln, cc din vin gi
thng bng thng o lng khong cch trong
khi ang ng trn nhng ng tre c trn
vai. Tuy nhin, khng ging nh Show miu t c hai li sng nng thn v th ca
Vit Nam, Lng Ti li ch k chuyn v cuc
sng nng thn trong mt thi gian c th
ca Vit Nam.
"[Lng Ti] minh ha mt quan im khc
cho khn gi. i vi nhng khn gi xem
Show, [Lng Ti] l mt c hi khc cho
nhng khn gi mun nhn thy mt th gii
khc", anh L Tun ni.
Hnh nh v m Thanh ca Min Bc
Vi ly do , mt b su tp cc nhc c truyn
thng nhm to ra m thanh s thi minh
ha cho m thanh ca ma ch khng phi l
m thanh giao thng ca thnh th, v ng tre
c ch tc miu t nc v sng ch khng
phi l cc ta nh cao tng n o. Mc d ct
truyn phn ln u t khn gi cm nhn
v tri nghim, Lng Ti v mt bc tranh sng
ng v min Bc Vit Nam, cuc sng v kinh
nghim ca ngi dn trong vng.
Gim c L Tun hy vng s tr li ca

chng trnh trn sn khu a phng s to
mt c hi cho c khn gi Vit Nam ln nc
ngoi tri nghim. Mc d n c c kt
ra t ngun cm hng cng lm ta sng nn
vn ha ca Vit Nam thng qua ngh thut
trnh din, Lng Ti mun em n mt ci g
mi l cho khn gi .
"[Lng Ti] quan trng. N chia s vi khn
gi mt phin bn sn phm khc ca chng ti
vi cng mt khi nim v tm nhn," anh ni.
bit thm thng tin v chng trnh cng
nh thi gian biu din trong thng Ba v thng
T , vo xieclangtoi.com
Maft Sai Khi Dy S

Hoang Di
Maft Sai khng n thun l mt DJ no

ngi ngh s nhc funk n t Thi Lan ny ti
to li th gii v khonh khc ca nhng bn
nhc ni ting thi y. ng Nam c may
mn xem anh nh mt ti nng tht s ca
ring khu vc, Maft Sai tr thnh mt chuyn
gia ca dng nhc Thi tuyt vi luk thung,
molam v nhc dance Isan tt c u c
ti hin li trong bn nhc xut sc pht hnh
bi hng Zudrangma. Mt DJ vi b dy kinh
nghim hn 12 nm, m nhc ca Maft l s pha
trn ca cc th loi m nhc khc l t khp ni
trn th gii. Anh mong i s em n mt m
biu din m nhc m cht Chu u vi s hi
ha ca nhc molam, breakdown ca Chu Phi,
luk thung uyn chuyn v nhc cuts ca Trung
ng The Observatory vo ngy 7/3.
Maft Sai s biu din ti The Observatory gc
L Lai v Tn Tht Tng, Q1, Tp. H Ch Minh
lc 10 gi ti ngy 7/3. Gi v vo cng l 150,000
ng.
m nhc Dont Feed the

Monkey
GingerWork Mng Mt Tui
Chng trnh Melting Pot thng trc nhc

chng ti nh rng c rt nhiu m m nhc si
ng trong nhng ngy gn y Si Gn. Mi
ban nhc bao gm UGWAE, Space Panther, Cat
Pylon, The 67s, GrowSound, Freckled Gypsies,
Applesauce v nhng nhm nhc tng t nh
th s biu din Cargo Bar vi hiu ng nh
sng tuyt vi c thc hin bi Daniel Day
Long - mt thnh vin ca nhm Space Panther.
Bui biu din s bt u t 4 gi chiu cho ti
khuya.
Dont Feed the Monkey s din ra vo ngy 15/3
Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyn Tt Thnh, Q4. Gi v vo
ca l 150,000 ng v chng trnh s bt u lc
4 gi chiu.
Nu nh bn sng H Ni kh lu v vn
cha bit g v GingerWorks, bn c th sng
u mt vng ho lnh. , cng c th l
khng. Nhng nhm chuyn t chc cc s kin
ny l mt i tng ng n.
Nu bn mun chc mng 12 thng ca s
kt hp gia m nhc v ngh thut, ngh thut
sp t, v tt c nhng s sng to ca m nhc,
hy nh du th By ngy 29/3 cho tic k nim
trn mt nm ca h. Thng tin chi tit cha
c thng bo, nhng anh chng ch tc ,
Mark Harries m bo cc thng tin s c cp
nht trn trang Facebook ca h - facebook.com/
wearegingerwork.
Cc s kin trong thng ca L'Espace
LEspace s cho n ma Xun bng nhng

bn nhc ting Php hay nht c biu din
bi nhng ngh s Php ni ting xuyn sut
thng Ba. Ngh s u tin, Celina Ramsauer
mt nhc s biu din khp nm chu, s
c mt ti LEspace vo th Hai ngy 17/3. Vi
album Together, c mang nhng kinh nghim
t nhng chuyn i ca mnh th hin trong m
nhc ni gi li nhng k nim v khm ph
nhng iu lm mi ngi trn th gii va
khc bit va tng ng.
Ngay sau , vo th Nm ngy 20/3, LEspace
s n cho Brigitte, mt b i ngh s nhc

Rock n t Php ha hn mang li nhng bui
nhc hp dn ti sn khu LEspace H Ni. Ly
cm hng t sc mnh ca ph n quyn r ca
thp nin 50, cp i tc vng v tc nu ny s kt
hp ging ht v li nhc y khiu khch cng
nhng m iu rock trn y nng lng ca h.
Superpoze s biu din cui cng vo th By
ngy 29/3, bui biu din ca anh cng l s kin
then cht ca thng vi tt c ngun nng lng
ca th loi m nhc in t. Gn y nhn c
nhiu nhn xt tch cc t khn gi ca Lin
Hoan Vieilles Charrues, Superpoze kt hp ngun

cm hng m nhc in t vi phong cch ha
trn gia jazz v hip-hop to ra nhng kit tc
m nhc ca mnh.
Celina Ramsauer s c mt LEspace vo th
Hai ngy 17/3 vi gi v 120,000 ng. Ngay sau
, Brigitte s biu din vo th Nm ngy 20/3
vi gi v 120,000 ng. Kt thc thng vi m
biu din ca Superpoze vo th By ngy 29/3 vi
gi 60,000 ng cho mt cp v. Tt c cc chng
trnh s bt u lc 8 gi ti. V c bn ti
LEspace, 24 Trng Tin, Hon Kim
The final say
The E-Bike
David Mann gives us a crash course in buying an
electric bike (excuse the pun). Popular in Hanoi and
spreading further afield, are they the answer to a country
increasingly struggling with exhaust fumes?
Photos by Andy Crompton
oud have to be
living under a rock
not to notice the
rising number of
electric bicycles now zipping
their way around Vietnams
bustling streets, particularly
in Hanoi. With the post-Tet
buying stampede now in full
flow, bike dealers are lining
the pavements with the latest
imports from around Asia.
What follows is the inside
word on the e-bike craze.
The Pros
The Cons
1) Cheap to Run
3) Easy to Use
1) Kinda Uncool
While your weekly trip to Petrolimex will

wind up costing you around VND100,000,
electric bikes will smugly glide their way
around town for a couple of VND10,000
charges per week, depending on how
aggressively you use them.
A conservative cost-benefit analysis shows
that electricity for e-bikes costs less than
VND80,000 per month riders can budget for
annual fuel costs well under VND1 million.
Hoang from Nghia Hai Electric Bikes
says e-bike riders are not only insulated
from volatile petrol prices, but they also
bypass the hefty registration, license and
maintenance costs incurred by their gasguzzling equivalents.
Expenses really add up, he says. Those
savings are probably the largest reason why
people are looking at e-bikes.
Pham Hong, who runs Thanh Tung Bikes

on Hanois Ba Trieu, pins the popularity of
e-bikes down to their ease of use.
The seats are lower and so is the centre
of gravity on most electric bikes, such as the
Giant M133 (VND12.5 million), he explains.
This makes them far easier for beginners to
learn.
This also might be a plus for the older or
vertically privileged customers considering
taking the plunge.
Although there are no official statistics on

e-bike riders, anecdotally it is clear that
school-aged kids still account for the vast
majority of the market.
And with prices starting from as low
as VND8.5 million for a Honda Cool, its
little wonder that thousands of parents are
opting for electric bikes in a bid to keep their
children away from motorbikes.
Sure, more adults are gliding through
Vietnams thoroughfares on e-bikes, but
theyre having to deal with hordes of teenage
girls holding up traffic in their three-bikewide processions.
This image problem might explain why
plenty of adults (particularly the imageconscious Gen Y-ers) remain hesitant to jump
behind the hybrid handlebars.
They also dont look as cool as a
motorbike, which is more powerful,
expensive and can go faster, says Trang
Nguyen, a student at Hanoi University.
She adds: If they run out of battery you
can look a bit silly pushing them home.
2) Green
But this shouldnt just be about protecting
your hip pocket. In fact, buyers opting for
e-bikes are helping to trim the number of
motorbikes belching carbon dioxide into
Vietnams already hazy atmosphere.
With motorbike exhaust fumes the top
contributor to air pollution in Vietnam,
environmentalists are optimistic that the
shift to battery-powered bikes may help
reduce emissions.
4) The Cool Factor

Turn the clock back two years and youd be
hard pressed to find anyone over 16 riding
e-bikes around the city. Fast-forward to 2014
and in Hanoi everyone, from office workers
to the elderly, are joining the morning
commute on shiny-coloured e-bikes,
albeit without the streamers and gaudy
attachments you may find in school parking
lots.
The demand for e-bikes has exploded in
the past three years, according to Hoang,
with electric bikes even outselling nonelectric models in his shop.
Theyre perfect for the average commute
around the city, which is around 1km to
3km, he says. More adults, including
myself, are using them to get to work
because they are so convenient.
2) The Weight
Considering Vietnams temperamental
climate, the idea of pushing a bike home
doesnt sound appealing to anyone let
alone when some bikes can weigh up to
50kg.
The Final Word

Thats the typical weight of popular
e-bike models like the Nijia Mau Cam
(VND12.5 million) or the Honda Hurricane
(VND10.5 million).
Shoppers will find reprieve in high-end
brands, although these can still be double
the weight of a normal bicycle. The Nishiki
26 (VND12.5 million), for example, is
disguised as a traditional pedal-powered
bike with a lithium battery under the
saddle but it still weighs upwards of
25kg.
As e-bike owner Bup Be Quy says, If
youre going long distances and it runs
out of electricity, you have to push it on
foot and it is very heavy. If you have an
e-bike with pedals, its still far heavier than
normal bicycles. Its like being at the gym!
3) The Sound of Silence

In China, electric bikes have a nickname
silent death. The quiet running electric
motors on e-bikes come with the chilling
reality that few people on the road can
actually hear you coming. Motorbikes, cars
and pedestrians included.
The added perception of e-bikes as

slow, despite reaching speeds of up
to 40km/h, also means people are less
inclined to wear helmets.
Manufacturers including Honda, Yamaha
and Giant have catered for this by adding
lights, horns and more engine noise to give
e-bikes a stronger presence on the roads.
4) Not so Green
While newer and more expensive models
will offer greenies satisfaction in being
environmentally friendly, e-bikes at the
bottom of the price bracket arent exactly
guilt-free.
A recent statement by the Vietnam
Association for the Conservation of Nature
and the Environment shows that lead acid
batteries, most commonly found in cheaper
e-bikes under VND 10 million, are difficult
to dispose of and pose indirect impacts on
the environment.
On the other hand, lithium-ion batteries
have a longer battery life, require less time
to recharge and can be recycled, leaving a
better environmental footprint.
Buyers opting for e-bikes are helping to trim the

number of motorbikes belching carbon dioxide into
Vietnams already hazy atmosphere
With plenty of options to suit a wide

range of budgets, e-bikes are a nifty,
efficient and cost-effective way to make
daily commutes around Vietnams major
cities. Just look at the capital. Here
theyre driven in droves.
Here are our top tips for buyers looking to
enter the e-bike market:
1) Consider pedal-battery powered
hybrids that wont leave you stranded on

the highway
2) Lithium-ion batteries usually require
less time charging and will run longer

distances sometimes up to 80km per
charge
3) If youre tall, opt for a model with a
longer platform and bigger wheels to

help with balance, like the Yamaha Metis
X (VND12 million) or the Bridgestone QLI
(VND13.1 million)
4) With top speeds reaching up to
40km/h, wear a helmet and add horns

and lights to make your presence known
5) Go to reputable and certified
distributors to avoid inflated prices and

counterfeit bikes
6) Look at the weight capacity of different

bikes if youre ferrying passengers. This
ranges from 70kg to 130kg
The final say
COMMENT
Do-Gooders, Money
Makers and Misfits
Are you a foreigner living in Vietnam? Could you, too, be a misfit or a do-gooder?
Or perhaps youre just here for the financial gain? Prepare yourself
for some hard truths. Words by Nick Ross. Illustration by Yanneth Alboroz
ur species has an obsession with

categorisation. From plants and
animals through to simple and
complex ideas, humans like to give
everything around them a label, and then fit
these labels into groups.
Such categorisation has lent itself to a
theory talked about by Vietnam-based expat,
John Cole. Picking it up in the mid-1980s
in Papua New Guinea, both tongue-incheek and yet daringly close to the bone,
Cole places the foreigners living in this
country into three categories: missionaries,
mercenaries and misfits. While there is a
rhythm of the words three ms and two
words with the suffix, ary in Vietnams
case there are negative historical connotations
attached to the labels missionary and
mercenary. So, weve updated the labels
to take into account modern-day Vietnam.
But the question remains. Could this
categorisation hold some truth?
The Do-Gooder
When I first came to Vietnam I was brimful
with good intentions. I saw the poverty,
was shocked and tried to help. There was a
badly treated Cambodian street kid, perhaps
only 12 years old. Together with my partner
we tried unsuccessfully to get her off the
streets. Then there were the booksellers in
the backpackers area. I taught them English,
for free. We had a few lessons and then they
stopped turning up. Although my wellmeant intentions ended in failure, I was
trying to do some good, make a difference. I
was a do-gooder. But only partly so.
There are thousands of foreigners living
in Vietnam full of good intentions. A small
minority are truly selfless altruists. They
give themselves almost 100 percent. Michael
Brosowski of the Hanoi-based Blue Dragon
Foundation is of this ilk. His life revolves
around helping young, disadvantaged people
in trouble. Saigon-based Trish Franklin of
Loreto Vietnam is similar, having given up
everything for the sake of those in need.
These two people, along with a few other
like-minded souls, are the real do-gooders.
They have a simple cause to help give
people better lives.
Other people with this mindset the
NGO workers, the volunteers, the diplomatic
workers, the people who go to fundraising
events and the teachers who believe that

imparting their skills will help people in
Vietnam to better opportunities are
driven by charity-based motivations in this
theoretical setup. But this categorisation only
partly describes their raison detre, the work
they do in Vietnam.
The Money Makers

With the possibility of earning a relatively
large salary in Vietnam while enjoying the
cheap cost of living, there is a money-making
element to the lives of many expats living
in this country. While its not so fruitful as
in the past when expat packages and
add-on benefits were often outrageous
salaries for most foreigners remain relatively
high. The money-maker is someone who
takes advantage of the place where they
work or live. In the traditional sense that
of the mercenary they are highly-paid
fighters motivated only by financial gain.
The modern world puts them in a different
environment, but the motivation is the same
money.
At various times in this country I have
been motivated by money. There was one
period where I was particularly bad, if
earning money can be seen as negative. I
was working all the hours that both daylight
and night could send, but I was on a roll
and stashing the cash. Even with a decades
worth of inflation, what I was earning at
the end of 2002 far surpasses what most
foreigners here earn today.
There is a period when most people living
here become driven by financial gain. The
key is to balance the desire to earn with a
sense of morality. Earning money is positive,
but earning large amounts of money at the
expense of others is unjust.
The Misfit
Changing visa and work permit regulations
mean that there are less misfits from overseas
making a living in Vietnam. Now you have to
prove you are here for the right reasons. In the
past anyone could rock up and start afresh.
But the fact remains countries like
Vietnam attract people who cannot make it
back home. Here you can reinvent yourself.
If you teach, you are treated with respect.
While back home you might be a nobody, in
Vietnam you can become a big fish. The sea
here is just that small.

Weve all met this type, all known the
teacher whose previous job was as a cleaner
at a fast food restaurant in the US. Weve
also met the corporate worker who cant
hold down a job, but due to an overseas
background gets hired (and then fired), when
they are just not cut out for management.
Then there is the opposite factor. People
like myself who have lived here so long
that going home may no longer an option.
In reality it is. But finding the work I do
in Vietnam back in London would be
impossible. In London, 200 people going
for the same job will have my level of
experience, if not more. They know the city,
have local knowledge and bring with them a
portfolio of contacts that I just dont have.
The word misfit is not necessarily negative.
It can also apply to people who have felt the
urge to broaden their horizons, seek new
opportunities and try life overseas. This was
how I originally came to Vietnam I think
most foreigners here may have a similar story.
We are not misfits as such, but our life choices
are motivated by the need to search out
something different. So, maybe its better to
describe people like ourselves as simply not
run-of-the-mill. Regardless, this is where we
fall in the view espoused by Cole.
Stereotypes
The categorisation talked of by John Cole
describes behavioural extremes. In the
same way that most people are moderates,
with only small amounts of edge-of-society
individuals becoming extremists, so the
people who are truly misfits, do-gooders and
money makers are in a minority.
Aspects true to most of us fit into a
mixture of all three categories. To deny that
is to deny the reasons why we live in a place
such as Vietnam.
However, the longer you live in this
country and acclimatise to the culture, the
way of life and the belief systems, for many
people such categories cease to apply.
Ultimately everyone, regardless of
background, is influenced by the unique
characteristics of the place they live.
Foreigners living long-term in Vietnam are
no different.
Do you have any comments on this article? If
so, please email editor@wordvietnam.com
The last call

Hanoi-based social enterprise, Betterday,
sells anything from organic green tea
to coffee, natural beauty products and
organic spices. Owner Nguyen Tuyet
Minh explains how her business is able to
focus on fair trade and organic produce, a
rarity in Vietnam. Photo by David Harris
Before Betterday I worked for development projects in
the northern part of Vietnam to help farmers produce safe and
good-quality products.
I started Betterday because...
development projects only

have a short time frame and cannot support and work together
with farmers over the long-term. So we decided to open our own
company to work closely and long-term with ethnic minority
farmers who live in remote areas.
Starting a business is a big challenge. Before we started

our business, we made a business plan and we thought that it
would not be so hard. But when you start, its harder than you
expected. Its like a type of big school without any teachers
you have to learn yourself every day from real life. Every day is
your exam. On the other hand, it also makes you become more
creative, more patient and sometimes more tough.
We teach farmers to grow and produce organic or safe
products and develop their teamwork and management skills.

After that we buy their products to sell in the local and international market.
Farmers in Vietnam are hardworking. Especially the

farmers our company works with. They are also honest and
friendly.
We work mostly with ethnic minority people. So when
we work with them we can learn about their culture, which is

very different from [the majority Kinh culture], even though we
are in the same country.
Fair trade food in Vietnam is...
still not common. Our

company is one of the first companies doing fair trade. We face
a lot of difficulties, such as how to support farmers to work well
as a group, and keeping good records of their production. It is
also difficult fulfilling the complex requirements of the fair trade
system.
If I could change one thing in the world, I'd... stop

people using chemicals in food production, so that everyone
could stay healthy.
My biggest regret is...that my hands are too small to give a
hand to all the people who need help.
My dream is... to have a green world.
Life... is sometimes hard, sometimes smooth, but for me I think
its fair.
Betterday is at 114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi or online at

betterday.com.vn
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Chuyn du lch, m thc

010 / The Seeds of Growth

052 / A Life in the Arts

The bottle is now half full

011 / The Big Five

Events to look out for this month

The sequel to A O Show

Painter Bui Suoi Hoa shares

084 / A Vietnamese Mosaic

098 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

Healthy home-cooked cuisine in

099 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: banh ran

100 / Mystery Diner HCMC

Photographer Rhahn Croqueville Two restaurants delight our inside

020 / Valentines Day at McDonalds 088 / The Workings of GingerWork

A date at the hottest ticket in town

026 / Womens Day

The real scoop on Womens Day

Making inroads into Hanois

092 / The Riding School

Learning to ride horses in the Year

EAT & DRINK

Our cover story looks at the

2 | Word March 2014

131 / Hanoi City Guide

Badasses and the clothes they wear

Its an adventure, daily for some

114 / Penguins, Seals and an Echidna

Phillip Island near Melbourne,

126 / Destination Zero

An introduction to Villa Song

130 / Travel Promos

4 | Word March 2014

144 / Medical Buff

135 / Hanoi Promos

146 / Student Eye

150 / Business Buff

118 / The Bikers Guide to the North

A well-dressed road trip

158/ Top Eats

162 / Body and Temple

Electric bikes arent just for nerds

182 / Do-Gooders, Money Makers

Whats your damage?

184 / The Last Call

The woman behind Fair Trade

Chuyn Du Lch & m Thc

Chu trch nhim xut bn:

Thc hin lin kt xut bn:

In n 15.000 cun, kh 20.5 x 27cm

assault on the senses,

Nick Ross, editor@

THIS MONTH'S COVER

Have Your Say

The February Issue

Do you think he sells

40 | Word February 2014

8 | Word March 2014

February 2014 Word | 41

The Talk Lead

The Seeds of Growth

n early 2009 a well-known financial

market in Vietnam is at the bottom.