Word Vietnam June 2014 High Quality

CHUYN DU LCH, M THC
VIETNAM EDITION
JUNE 2014
NH XUT BN LAO NG
W
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Life's a Bo
at
contents
wordvietnam.com
JUNE 2014
054
102
086
THE TALK
INSIDER
010 / Blame Culture
052 / Road Runner
Dont blame the English
Drag racing with sand and style
056 / Lifes a Boat
088 / The World Cup Special
The World Cup from A to Z, and

then some
014 / The Vegetable
024 / Charity of the Month
Saigons ARC are fighting the

good fight
ARTS
084 / A Decade on the Scene
Galerie Quynh turns 10
106 / The New Workroom Four

Life after Zone 9
012
2 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam.com
Cycling from Hanoi to Saigon is

good exercise
Our cover story navigates boatings

past and possibility
012 / Humans of Hanoi
Better living through bitter melon
LEISURE
102 / H2H: Measuring the Gains
054 / Off the Main Drag
Events to look out for this month
Just like New Yorkers, Hanoians

have stories
A village of silk and colonial remains
Urban running with Huy Mai
011 / The Big Five

BRIEFINGS
HISTORY
98 / Nha Xa
EAT & DRINK

108 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
French cuisine adapted to

Vietnamese climate
109 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: che thai
110 / Street Snacker Phan Rang

Experiencing Cham cuisine
108
Renaissance is an International British School

offering places in Early Years - Primary Seondary. Apply as early as possible to secure
a full-time place for your child.
contents
118
192
122
138 / Coffee Cup
FASHION
112 / Waiting for their Ship
140 / Recalling Hanoi
Style at the waters edge
143 / Hanoi Promos
TRAVEL
118 / Climbing Black Virgin Mountain
HCMC
036 / Overscene
Skip the cable cars, thats cheating
122 / When in Sri Lanka...
Getting beyond the beaches, ruins and jungle
130 / Destination Zero
At the otherworldly Victoria Nui Sam Lodge
132 / Photography Tips
Etienne lets us in on his thought process
135 / Travel Promos

HANOI
046 / Overscene
048 / Calendar
136 / Hanoi City Guide
038 / Calendar
155 / HCMC City Guide
164 / Coffee Cup
168 / Top Eats

170 / Non-Famous Places
174 / Food Promos
COLUMNS
146 / Book Buff
148 / The Alchemist
150 / The Therapist

152 / Medical Buff
154 / Student Eye
158 / Business Buff
160 / Body and Temple
172 / A World of Good
184 / Tieng Viet
FINAL SAY
188 / Responsible whiteboard
ownership
A bad memory is no excuse
190 / Hey, Miss Deezay
Eye-candy DJs are all the rage
192 / The Last Call
Julia Shaw is developing sailing in

Vietnam
CONTRIBUTORS
This month we asked Word creatives to tell us
about their worst boat ride ever.
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
JULIE VOLA
EDITORIAL
Photographer
I was about 10 years old when my

parents rented a boat to go to the Bird
Islands in Arcachon Bay, France. We set
down the anchor not far from the beach and enjoyed
a nice family day out. But when it was time to go my
dad forgot to account for the tide. We got beached
with no food and no water. When six hours later we
got going it was around midnight, pitch dark and my
dad had to navigate around the oyster farms trying to
avoid damaging the boat, all the while arguing with my
mother.
HARRY HODGE
Writer
We once took a memorable ride on a

40-year-old hydrofoil to Vung Tau. First
they tried to put us near the engines, but we refused
because it stank. Then it broke down and we floated
around while they fixed it. A year later the floating
coffin, as my friend nicknamed the boat, had
services suspended due to a fire.
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
editor@wordvietnam.com
ED WEINBERG
Deputy Editor
ed@wordvietnam.com
MADS MONSEN
Creative Director
mads@wordvietnam.com
ELISABETH ROSEN
Staff Editor
elisabeth@wordvietnam.com
KYLE PHANROY
Acting Photo Editor
kyle@wordvietnam.com
HOA LE
Staff Editor
hoale@wordvietnam.com
FRANCIS XAVIER
Staff Reporter
francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com
KAREN HEWELL
News & Online Editor
karen@wordvietnam.com
MARK ALLAN
Website & Graphic Designer
mark@wordvietnam.com
DAVID HARRIS
Staff Photographer
david@wordvietnam.com
VU HA KIM VY
Marketing
vy@wordvietnam.com
NGUYEN LOC
Layout Designer
loc@wordvietnam.com
KAREN HEWELL
Online Editor
I was only about 16 and with a school

group in Victoria, Canada. They had this
whale watching trip scheduled, so we all piled onto this
rickety old boat and headed out. But the weather was
awful that day, and we spent most of the time hiding
inside the boat. Nearly everyone got seasick. It must
have been something to see 30 high schoolers puking
into sick bags for three hours.
ED WEINBERG
Deputy Editor
Were paddling out to the river village in

Koh Rong, Cambodia, and I chivalrously
take the two-seat kayak. On the way back,
the tide is against us and I no longer feel chivalrous.
Leaning forward for more leverage, I capsize, my
friends already well ahead. After some abortive tries
to get back in, Im contemplating leaving the kayak
when a motorboat from the US$1,300 per night hotel
appears and snaps me up, dropping me off at my $US6
a night bungalow in time for breakfast.
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
Were on the boat to Koh Tao in

Thailand. The waves are high, people
are seasick, the main cabin is tense
there are too many people on the boat; is this
safe? Suddenly a wave smashes into the bridge, the
glass smashes and people start to scream. The captain
makes a decision. We turn back to Koh Pha-Ngan. Over
the next five days we are stuck there. The tides are so
high the highest in a century that no-one can
either come or leave.
ADMINISTRATION
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Sales Executive
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CHAU GIANG
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Dara O Foghlu, Margaret Smith, Lys Bui, Tim Doling, Dr. Damien Cummins, International SOS
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Cardenas, Huy Mai, The Victoria Group and InterContinental Sun Peninsula Danang
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In xong v np lu chiu Qy 2 nm 2014.
The prelude
Minh City as separate
publications, we
published related cover
stories on river life.
Together with our then
Hanoi photo editor,
Aaron Joel Santos, I
travelled down from
Lao Cai on the Chinese
border towards Hanoi,
following the course of
the Red River. Although
Lao Cai had its fair
share of boats, as the
Red River cut through
Yen Bai, one of the
norths largest towns,
the lack of boats was
striking. Whereas once
this was a key conduit
for trade between Hanoi
and the north, now
there was quite literally
not one vessel taking
advantage of the water.

But things are
starting to change,
especially in the big
cities where people
have more disposable
income. The waters
of this country are
starting to be utilised
again and not just by
fishermen and traders,
but also those who
boat for pleasure. Hit
the Saigon River and
its various tributaries,
and while there is little
traffic, for the first time
you see the speedboats.
Apartment complex
after apartment
complex is now offering
commuter trips from
the city outskirts to
District 1. Head up to
Halong Bay and the

number of boats on the
water there is growing
exponentially. And take
to the Mekong. Not only
is river life the heartbeat
of the region, there are
now so many cruises up
its twisting course that
you wonder where the
passengers are going to
come from.
We hope you
enjoy our cover story
on boats. Putting it
together and writing
about the history of
boating was certainly
a ride (excuse the
pun). If you have any
comments, please
email me on editor@
wordvietnam.com.
Nick Ross
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC
VIETNAM EDITION
JUNE 2014
Life's a Bo
at
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t started with a
conversation before
Tet. You should
really do something
on boats, said Carl,
an engineer, co-owner
of a speedboat and one
of the people behind
the swimming pool in
Ho Tram built to teach
young kids from poor
families to swim.
Theres so much
starting to happen
on Saigon River, he
continued, and people
are starting to see boats
as an alternative way to
travel.
Carls words
surprised me. At the
beginning of 2012 when
we still ran Word Ha
Noi and Word Ho Chi
NH XUT BN LAO NG
THIS MONTH'S COVER

Cover by DH Advertising
Photo by Mads Monsen
HAVE YOUR SAY

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS? THEN LET US KNOW ON FACEBOOK FACEBOOK.COM/WORD.VIETNAM OR VIA TWITTER, @WORDVIETNAM.
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AT EDITOR@WORDVIETNAM.COM WERE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC
VIETNAM EDITION
MAY 2014
insider
The Music Issue

(May, 2014)
Excellent issue once again. I thought you really covered
the music scene well. Like the graphics, too. GR
PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO
Saigon from Above

Imagine this city from a different perspective. Over the next few pages we showcase
some of the images shot by Jan-Mathieu Donnier, showing us Saigon from above
The MUsic
Issue
Another solid, bumper issue. RR

wordvietnam.com | May 2014 Word | 89
It seems there is a music underground developing in

Vietnam. Bodes well. MG
rom ground level we get one main

perspective on whats around us
that which is straight ahead, to
the side or behind, all on the same
plane. Yet ascend a few flights of stairs
or take a lift up to the 50th floor, and our
perspectives change. Below us stretches
out a landscape that on the street we
can only imagine. People become the
size of pins, cars form into beetles and
motorbikes start behaving like ants in
a colony, zooming from one point to
another, with little in-between.
It was with different perspectives in mind
that we decided to work with Jan-Matthieu
from GlobalVision. A Swiss citizen, born
and raised in Geneva, his company focuses

on high-technology imaging systems to
promote brands, products and facilities.
Using drone helicopters fitted with a Sony
NEX7 camera replete with a 16mm, 2.8 lens,
Jan films land and cityscapes from above.
The images he captures are sharp, steady
and, thanks to cinematic-style stabilisation,
very smooth. They show us the world from a
different angle.
Saigon is a very dense and rather flat
city, explains Jan. Except from standing
in a building, there is no natural way to
look at the city from above. So the vision is
always limited to a street corner. Shooting
aerial images allow us to take a birds-eye
perspective of our subjects. It frees the

viewer from all gravity constraints and offers
sizzling views. It offers a new dimension.
Aerial photography also allows Jan to
document the changes in Saigon, the rise
of new high-rises, the construction of new
suburbs, the destruction of areas that were
once green and are now a mass of concrete
or rubble.
Over the past four years I have witnessed
a complete change to the citys skyline, he
says. I want to record images that will form
part of this countrys visual history. A few
years from now, you will be able to look at
our aerial images as a record, a memory
the Saigon of the past.
90 | Word May 2014 | wordvietnam.com
Online Video
GlobalVision has created a short,
one-minute video, Saigon from Above,
that will be posted on the Word website
wordvietnam.com in early May.
Capturing a city that is constantly on
the move, from dense and quite-insane
roundabouts to quiet countryside
districts, the video gives insight into the
diverse nature of this city.
For more information on GlobalVision's
flycam and Jan, go to globalvision.ch or
facebook.com/asiaflycam
wordvietnam.com | May 2014 Word | 91
Saigon from Above

(p88, May 2014)
Beautiful images of Saigon. Cant wait
to see the video. Are drones allowed
here? I thought there was a ban on flying
helicopters through the centre of the
city. EF
Errata
The Antique Market
Two contributors
to our Vietnams
Music Scene, In
25 Acts cover
feature in the
May 2014 issue
were overlooked
in the crediting
Matt Bender
and Seamus
Butler. Word
would like to
apologise for this
error.
(p96, May 2014)

Never knew this place existed and
Ive lived in Hanoi for years
JL
They raise prices for
Tay there, you know.
I heard a couple of
vendors discussing it in
Vietnamese. BB
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88 | Word May 2014 | wordvietnam.com
the talk
Zen and the

Leaky Faucet
We habitually erect a barrier called blame that keeps us from communicating
genuinely with others, and we fortify it with our concepts of who's right and who's
wrong. We do that with the people who are closest to us and we do it with political
systems, with all kinds of things that we don't like about our associates or our society.
It is a very common, ancient, well-perfected device for trying to feel better. Blame
others... Blaming is a way to protect your heart, trying to protect what is soft and open
and tender in yourself. Rather than own that pain, we scramble to find some comfortable
ground. Pema Chdrn
When in doubt about whos to blame, blame the English. Craig Ferguson
heres a part in Zen and the

Art of Motorcycle Maintenance
where a familys constantly
leaking faucet contributes
to a tense atmosphere in the house.
Whenever something else goes
wrong, a glass breaks or some
other minor incident occurs, its
almost too much. The houses
delicately maintained equilibrium
is thrown out of balance, the
concentration necessary to ignore
the dripping faucet and go about
their daily routine is threatened
and they lash out at this latest
interruption. As the books writer,
Robert M. Pirsig, puts it, You
always suppress momentary anger
at something you deeply and
permanently hate.
This is the essence of blame
assigning responsibility for an
event to one actor in a situation.
In complex things like real life
situations, total designations like
this almost never reflect the truth.
But slowly they become the only
truth that matters.
A List of Facebook Expat

Group Tropes
I dont want to be culturally
insensitive or anything, but is it
normal that [something culturally
insensitive]?
3, 2, 1, here we go again...
Something off-topic about
McDonalds
[A gif that says If you dont
want a sarcastic answer, dont ask a
stupid question]
I dont want to criticise [the
subject], but...
Actually, I want to criticise
[the subject]!
This might be an analogy
youll understand [person
commenter is arguing with]...
Dont mind [person
commenter disagrees with], hes
just a troll
Were all guilty of these freakouts.
Something doesnt go our way, and
we get angry. Anger is a powerful
emotion, while sadness isnt. Its
easy to be humble when were
doing well, but a persons true
test comes when theyre not doing
well. As Mike Tyson famously said,
Everybody has a plan until they
get punched in the mouth.
What Ive Learned on the

Roads of Vietnam
This is my particular freakout, and
it happens over and over again. I
leave my house late, start driving a
bit fast and encounter some sort of
roadblock a person not turning
in the right turning lane, someone
going slowly and not leaving
enough passing space, a bus. I lay
on my horn and silently smoulder
with resentment. Eventually I get
past the roadblock, crisis averted.
Except the crisis is something I
continue to carry with me, like
Pirsigs leaky faucet.
One of my favourite things
about Vietnam something that
continues to astound me every rush

hour is the occasional victim
of my anger. Traffic will be going
slowly at a green light, and I will
get to the bottleneck in time to see
someone pushing along the cart
theyve worked at all day, someone
walking alongside their out-of-gas
bike. (Sometimes it will be someone
parked in the street for a reason
that isnt as good, but whatever.)
And Ill start to relax, and notice the
calm faces of those around me.
That live-and-let-live attitude is
what makes this country special,
what has made it capable of
undergoing great changes in the
past century while still keeping
its soul. As an American, it was a
surprising thing to me when I first
landed and now it strikes me
as Vietnams fountain of youth, its
pipeline to continual possibility.
The Zen teacher Alan Watts gives
this exercise: the next time someone
bumps into you while walking,
imagine instead that their shoulder
was just a doorframe, one that
you were clumsy enough to bump
into. Forget whose fault it was. See
how sore your shoulder is and ask
yourself, Can I carry on? If you
can, then go on your way.
Its a profound thing to forgive
grudges, and look forward to the
future with clear eyes. An even
more profound thing? Turning that
leaky faucet off, and not picking up
these grudges in the first place.
Ed Weinberg
the big five
1.
2.
HANOI SLAM CELEBRATES

COURAGE
After a spectacular season of storytelling,

Hanoi Slam is celebrating a successful
year with their newest presentation of
Hanois most talented talkers, with Courage.
From the small feats to the magnificent
accomplishments, Hanoi Slams storytellers
will share their moments of courage in the
face of adversity on Jun. 4 from 7.30pm,
and vie for fantastic prizes. Along with a
night of great stories, all proceeds from the
night go towards Humanitarian Services
for the Children of Vietnam.
Entrance for Hanoi Slams Courage
is VND100,000, and goes directly to
philanthropic purposes. For more information
on the event as well as to become a speaker,
email hanoistoryslam@gmail.com. Hanoi Slam
starts at 7.30pm on Jun. 4 at Puku Caf, 16
Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
VOX POPS
The Saigon Players a fixture

on the local theatre scene is
getting ambitious this June, with a
four-day arts event centred around
performances of Henrik Ibsens dystopic
drama, An Enemy of the People. In the
play, a doctor discovers a deadly virus
plaguing a newly-built health resort
and announces his findings, much to the
chagrin of the powers that be, whove
staked a lot on this venture. When he
wont back down, hes declared an
enemy of the people.
In the bargain, attendees of the Vox
Pops 3rd HCMC Visual & Performing
Arts Festival will hear music and poetry,
and see film screenings and dance
performances from some of Saigons
most talented creatives. Proceeds from
the festival go to Helping Hand Saigon
and Little Rose Shelter.
Vox Pops is taking place between Jun. 12
and Jun. 15 at McSorleys, 4 Thao Dien, Q2,
HCMC. Tickets are VND300,000 per day,
available at McSorleys or saigonplayers.com
3.
FIVE YEARS OF CRAIG

THOMAS GALLERY
In honour of the Craig Thomas

Gallery five-year anniversary, the gallery
will hold a group exhibition of 12
Vietnamese artists on Jun. 19 continuing
the exhition through to Jul. 18. The work on
display will include painting, sculpture and
installation, and will feature artists from
throughout the country, many of whom
have had solo exhibitions in recent years at
the gallery.
Craig Thomas Gallery started in 2009
with a mission to promote local and
domestic art. In featuring young and midcareer artists from the whole country over
the course of the past five years, theyve
added immensely to the rich scene we now
have at our disposal.
Craig Thomas Gallery is at 27i Tran Nhat
Duat, Q1, HCMC. The Fifth Anniversary show
will open June 19 and run through July 18. For
more info, go to cthomasgallery.com
5.
COMEDY ASIA
4.
POGO A GO GO
Beachside bar Pogo has long held it

down on the Mui Ne strip, but after
seven years cold chillin theyve decided
its time for a refresh. The Relaunch
party is kicking off summer with some
free food and drink specials, and an
all-night party courtesy of DJs Nic Ford,
Dan Lo and Global B.
Pogo Beach Bar and Grill is at 138
Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne. The party's
June 14 at 7pm, check out the latest
developments at facebook.com/pogobeachbar
If youre transfixed by the laughter

of the last comedy show at Cargo
Bar, then this little shindig might be right
up your Saigon alley. Cargo, Apocalaughs
Now and Stand-Up Saigon have got
together to bring you comedians from the
Asian comedy scene in a new, bi-monthly
show called Comedy Asia.
Leading the line will be American comic
William Childress who recently performed
to great acclaim at Ha Ha Hanoi. Based in
Myanmar (and formerly Hong Kong), he
will perform together with Kuala Lumpurbased comic Brian Tan, who is famous for his
one-liners, as well as three of the increasingly
polished comedians from Stand-Up Saigon.
Comedy Asia will take place on Wednesday
Jun. 18 at Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
HCMC. Entrance surcharge is VND180,000
and includes a free icy cold Magners Original
Cider. Doors are at 8pm. For table bookings email
saigoncomedynights@gmail.com
wordvietnam.com | June 2014 Word | 11
brief ings
The War Marriage
I met my husband when we were both 18
and in the army. We got married right in the
trenches of Dien Bien Phu. It was wartime;
we only needed our fellow soldiers, a few
packs of cigarettes, some candy and a round
of applause to call it a wedding. Everything
else was considered a luxury.
I am 101 years old now. We stayed
together until he died two years ago. We
were thrown out of our house by our son, he
even beat his own father. We lost everything
we worked hard for.
We turned to begging on the streets and
picking trash to survive and slept here at
night. He passed away just one week after
the coughing fits came. I always have his
picture with me. No matter what I do, I cant
stop thinking about him. I miss him so much.
Humans of Hanoi
ver wondered what that fruit

vendor or bent-up old lady on the
street is thinking? The Facebook
group, Humans of Hanoi, captures
those fleeting moments. Modeled after
the wildly successful Humans of New York,
the photography project aims to depict
Hanoians everyday life. 10 photographers
scavenge the city for ideas, following the

doctrine that every individual has a story
to tell. Its been a hit: at the time we went
to press, the groups Facebook page had
garnered nearly 27,000 likes.
Here are a few samples from their
collection (edited for length):
The Twins
Humans of Hanoi: So boys, whats your
favourite hobby?
The boys: Going to school!
Their adoptive mother: These guys are
twin brothers. They suffer from memory
deficiency caused by ADHD, one of
them has a cleft lip. I enrolled the boys in
primary school many times before, but its
too difficult for them so theyre back in
preschool now. Their biological parents gave
them up because they couldnt raise them.
They live in the countryside, at least I know
the father still does. The mother left a long
time ago
Check out Humans of Hanoi at facebook.

com/humansofhanoi and humansofhanoi.
tumblr.com. Submissions can be sent
via the Tumblr website
The Mixed Couple

Humans of Hanoi: What made you fall for the
other?
Woman: He asked me out for a beer. He fell
for me first.
Man: No, she fell for me first. She brought
over medicine when I was sick.
Humans of Hanoi: And who lost their cool
first and dropped the L word?

Man: Oh we Welsh never say it first. Thats a
tradition.
Woman: Well, neither do the Vietnamese.
Our feelings are unspoken we both knew
it was meant to be without having to say
anything.
brief ings
The Vegetable
Matt Bender investigates better living through bitter melon. Photo by Kyle Phanroy
he bitter melon, or momordica

charantia, has about as many names
and uses as it does years of history
riding behind it. For those of you
into historical cultures or with an om
tattoo somewhere on your body the
bitter melon dates back to the Vedic (preHindu civilisation in the Indus valley) era
and even has a Sanskrit name to show for
it, karavella. In Vietnam its called kh qua
no accent on the second word. This is
pronounced similar to the word kh qu
rising accent meaning suffering.
To put a travellers twist on it, if you were
to take a trip from Eastern China through
India, Africa and on to The Caribbean you
would see bitter melons being used in some
way in every country. Not a lot of foodstuffs
outside of salt can claim that kind of farflung popularity. While not significantly
Bitterness As the Spice of Life
NO ATTACHMENT
PEACE
HUMILITY
GAIN
LOSS
PRIDE
high in nutrients except for vitamin C,

of which the gourd boasts an impressive 40
percent of your daily recommended dose
bitter melon has long been known to have
certain medicinal properties, especially in
regards to circulation and getting rid of
digestive parasites.
My favourite method of cooking it is to
slice it very thin and stir-fry it in coconut oil
with eggs, onions and tomatoes. The bitter
melon acts as a base to hold all of the other
flavors together with a nice, crunchy tang,
but doesnt overpower the other ingredients.
Even in canh kh qua (bitter melon soup
no accent) the focus is on the spiced pork
that gets stuffed inside the gourd, not on
the gourd itself. This may explain why even
though you can find bitter melons in markets
from Nepal to Trinidad, no countrys
signature dish is bitter melon-centric.
BITTERNESS
ATTACHMENT
14 | Word
June 2014
| wordvietnam.com
Mads
choice
Symbolically, bitter melon stew is one of

the specially prepared dishes for Tet, the
Vietnamese New Year the bitterness is
representative of the poor living conditions
the country has experienced in the past. On
the positive side of symbolism, there is an
international art collective known as the
National Bitter Melon Council (NBMC) who
claims that bitter melon is an intrinsically
human food in the sense that all of the other
animals in the world wont eat it.
While Im not 100 percent sure if this
is true, I got in touch with a member of
their Tokyo branch, Hiroko Kikuchi, who
assured me that bitterness is a sentiment/
taste that only humans can appreciate, and
investigating bitterness can tell us more
Eds choice
about community, humanity, people and

society. He also confirmed that the NBMC
is definitely not a joke.
The philosophy of the NBMC is to tie the
nutritional benefits of eating bitter melon to
the idea that bitterness and melancholy are
inherent to what makes us human, which is
possibly the most romantic sentiment Ive
ever heard of being attached to a vegetable.
Its not hokey, though: its sweet, its cool
and it kind of makes sense. Birds dont eat
bitter melon and birds dont ever lie in bed,
staring at the ceiling fan and thinking about
all of the friends theyve left elsewhere. We
eat it and we do. I get it, man.
How to Know If Your Bitter Melon

Is Right for You
The ripening cycle of bitter melons goes
from small and light green to bigger and
dark green. The bigger and greener the more
bitter they taste, and the skin gets a bit more
tough so you want to go for ones that are
light green and about the size of a hamster.
Bitter melons start to turn a bit Halloween
orangey after that. So if you see streaks of
yellow in your melon it means that, even if
its still small, it is older and on its way to
becoming unpalatable.
The warm, high-humidity climate of
Vietnam is ideal for growing bitter melons,
which have a long growing season
usually grown in the dry season but flexible
enough for the rainy season, similar to
supermarket staples like squash, cucumber
and cantaloupe. Which means that anytime
youre in the mood for bitter melon, its
usually just a shop visit away. Matt
Bender
brief ings
5, 6, 7, 8... Dance!
A huge dance show hits Saigon on Jun. 7 and Jun. 8
his year, Dancenters dance spectacular is all

about numbers with 24 dance performances
featuring 200 dancers and seven different styles.
As Thao Nguyen, general manager of Dancenter
explains, the title of the show originates from what you
hear in the dance studio.
One, two, three and four five, six, seven and
eight... Dancers not only hear music, they count music
to time their movement, she says. So when you see
a complete dance, almost every second of it (or every
beat) needs to be decided on and put together sort of
like when you make a stop-motion animation.
Promising to thrill audiences with 120 minutes of
elegant jazz, graceful ballet, funky hip hop, energetic
Zumba, charming belly dance and soulful contemporary
performances, 5, 6, 7, 8! is one of three annual shows
staged by the school. With over 800 students enrolled,
the idea is to give as many of the schools students as
possible the chance to work on a complete, full-length
dance show. Says Thao: We are trying to instill in our
students the idea that dance is an art form all art
forms need exposure and are made to be shared.
A Labour of Love
Yet, having run these shows for seven years, ironically
the challenge of putting on such an extravaganza is not
the immensity of working with over 200 performers
of all ages, but as Thao says, finding a space that can
house 200 people backstage. Beyond that, once the
students are committed, then the task of working with
such a large number of people is not so daunting.

Its truly a labour of love for all of us, she says.
A lot of our teenage students move on to studying
performing arts after Dancenter we are glad to
be able to kickstart this interest and confidence in
performing. For a lot of our adult dancers, dancing
is something they have done as kids but only picked
up again when they moved to Vietnam. Committing
to a show like this not only helps them to improve
technically, but also to learn what it is like to be part of a
professional show.
The show will have performances entitled The 7 Sins,
5 Senses, H2O, 911 and more, and will also feature a
special appearance from Urban Dance Group, with top
dancers from popular TV dance shows like So You Think
You Can Dance, and Got To Dance. But most importantly,
the extravaganza provides something new, something
different for local audiences.
[The show is not] only highly entertaining, but
very different from much of the dance [Vietnamese
audiences] know, explains Thao. They will see
dancers exploring their art in a show dedicated to
dance, not just as back-up dancers for singers. And of
course they will see a variety of more western styles
that are not very popular in Vietnam such as jazz, tap or
contemporary dance.
Catch 5, 6, 7, 8! On Jun. 7 at 7.30pm and Jun. 8 at 3pm, at
Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien, 4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1. Tickets
can be booked through reservations@dancentervn.com or by
calling (08) 3519 4490
brief ings
The Helicopter
Making the inaccessible accessible
who had been in the country for over 17

years say that it was one of the best things
she has done and that it was so wellorganised. She was able to see something
she would otherwise never had the chance
due to the difficult trekking involved.
According to Luke, the trip quite
literally brought grown men to tears.
The landscape of Quang Binh is already
stunning from ground level. But see it from
above, a different angle, and it puts into
perspective not just the vastness of the
national park but also its natural beauty.
Lines of Communication
Photo by Carla Henriques
One of the stumbling blocks to growing

tourism in Phong Nha has been how to do
it. Past experience with mass tourism has
led to other sites being damaged and even
destroyed. Take Hon Chong near Ha Tien in
the very south of Vietnam. Once labeled a
mini version of Halong Bay, hawkers hassle
tourists at both the entrance and in the
secluded beach area inside, litter is strewn
everywhere, and the stress of too much
tourism has had the ultimate environmental
impact a few years ago one of the
limestone rocks jutting out from the sea
collapsed into the water.
Photo by Carla Henriques
t the end of April a new site graced

the skies over Phong Nha-Ke Bang
National Park, the home to Son
Doong, the worlds largest cave.
The helicopter transported 60 people to and
from Hang En over three days, one of the
most spectacular and remotest caves
in the area.
We organised a special helicopter
trip to Hang En to mark the 410-year
anniversary celebrations of Quang Binh,
says Luke Ford from Phong Nha-based
travel agency, Oxalis. It is not necessary to
take a helicopter there, but it makes for an
incredible experience.
Flying low between the mountains
and along the river valley to a specially
constructed landing site, the 15-minute
journey cost US$275 (VND5.8 million) for
the overnight trip to Hang En (walk six
hours to the cave on the way in and fly
back on the way out) and US$170 (VND3.6
million) per person for the fly-in-fly-out day
trip. Organised in partnership with Vietnam
Helicopters (VNH), the helicopter was
brought up from Danang to Dong Hoi, the
major city in the area.
People were blown away by the
experience, says Luke. We had one expat
Naturally, there has been immense

pressure to exploit the wealth of natural
resources in Phong Nha. But lobbying from
locally-based cavers and travel companies
has had its effect remote places are being
kept remote. And roads are deliberately not
being built. As Luke says of Hang En, the
Cave of 100,000 Swallows, Having a road
would just open it up to mass tourism and
we are trying our best to keep this a small
scale adventure. Hang En is one of the most
impressive natural sites in Vietnam and is
still completely original. We want to keep it
that way.
With commercial flights due to commence
in 2015, the helicopter also serves another
purpose.
Its always on standby for medical
evacuations for our Son Doong Cave
Expedition, explains Luke. This was
one of the main reasons we needed the
helicopter stationed in Dong Hoi as a trial.
We want to show people that we run the
best and safest adventures in Vietnam, and
that includes helicopter rescue on standby
for worst-case scenario. Nick Ross
For more information on trips to Hang En
and Son Doong go to either phong-nha-cave.com
or oxalis.com.vn
brief ings
The Nightclub
Photo by Nick Ross
ts a Friday night and the whole world seems to

have congregated on a remote mountainside in the
northern end of Danang. The reason? The opening
of InterCons M Club, a nightclub designed by the
renowned American interior designer, Bill Bensley. Its
being touted as the most exclusive and certainly the most
visually engaging in Vietnam.
From Saigon theres a crowd of celebrities, foodies and
well-known partygoers, while Hanoi, Hong Kong and
further afield are represented. The Danang posse are also
in attendance Nick from Waterfront and Red Bridge in
Hoi An, Phil from GoPro and many more.
Yet after the overwhelming, sometimes bizarre
monkey motifs are discussed here they appear at
every turn at different points of the evening, the
question arises. Where are the people going to come
from? How are they going to fill the clubs many rooms?
M Club is 25km from downtown Danang. Prices are topend, and getting to the place requires a pre-planned, well
thought-out journey.
One answer is Hong Kong. Theyll be staying in
the InterCon and theyll come from Hong Kong. Then
someone else chimes in. Thanks to the recent events in
Binh Duong, tourism has taken a hit. The Chinese arent
coming any more. The Crowne Plaza in Danang was
running at 100 percent occupancy. Now its down to six.
Monkey Be, Monkey Do

Event and marketing manager of M Club, Dan Kings,
acknowledges the difficulties they face. No business can
be guaranteed success, he says. Obviously there are
many challenges, but arent there always?
Your venue is too small, or too big, its too cheap or
too expensive, the music is too loud or too quiet. You
cant please everyone all the time. However, from our
perspective, we are willing to take a chance and do our
best to make it work. There is a real lack of venues in
Vietnam that cater for a more exclusive crowd, especially
in Danang.
And the more exclusive crowds theyre seeking want
something they cant get anywhere else. We will need
to offer something a bit different to the normal clubs,
Kings continues. We will combine stage performances

with more environmental type acts. Whether it is
dancers, costume walkabouts, close-up magicians or
something else, the entertainment will always be quirky
and new, evolving with various themes and styles.
That Kings recognises the challenges already bodes
well there is none of the build-it-and-they-will-come
attitude so peculiar to businesses in Vietnam. And the
venue is truly spectacular were not just talking
about the mountainside location on Son Tra Peninsula,
otherwise known as Monkey Mountain thanks to the
large population of macaques and douc langurs living
on its many peaks. Kitsch yet tasteful, contemporary yet
with a constant tribute to the past, this is a place to make
your eyes goggle.
Interior designer Bill Bensley gives his own take on
the club:
Mai is a monkey and has a fine art collection of all of his
friends in the local Danang forests. But they, like him, all wear
fancy clothes. Mai is a bit of a fashionista.
He has hung his own portrait in the most important places
and he has lots of girlfriends that love him as Mai is very
handsome, a bit cheeky, and a real swinger. Mai went to school
in Danang and excelled in interior design that is why his
pad looks so cool.
Mai, like all intelligent primates, loves bananas, and he
keeps them everywhere for his guests to enjoy usually fresh,
and hanging from a rope from the ceiling. He has also managed
to collect Southeast Asias largest collection of banana art and
sculpture...
And so M Club was born.
The Long Goodbye

As the audience thins out, a group of us head back into
the resort to Room 102. Just off the beach and with its
own private pool, the partying continues into the early
hours of the tropical night.
I flew up to Danang for the opening. It was a long
journey just for the pleasure of going to the club, but
between the entertainment, the environment and the
company, the experience made this onehelluva the trip.
Maybe, just maybe, it could all work. Nick Ross
Photos by Christian Berg / Mott Visuals
Vietnams
most
exclusive
nightclub
opens its
doors in
Danang
brief ings
Hanoi in Colour
Leaving black and white in the past. Photos by Teresa Welleans
hen looking around the sea of flailing arms

and smiling faces donned in rainbow flags
and neon clothing, you would be forgiven
for assuming the venue were anywhere but
Vietnams capital city. Yet, in a partnership between
CAMA, the American Embassy and a collection of local
grassroots LGBT organisations, ASEAN Pride became
a reality in Hanois American Club on a hot summer
Saturday in May.
It marked the second annual ASEAN Festival,
swapping out last years Artwork is Work intellectual
property theme for this years topic diversity
and acceptance. With bands like Stylish Nonsense
(Thailand), The Pinholes (Singapore), Big Bag
(Myanmar) and Recycle (Vietnam) taking the platform,
alongside the rowdy mass that surrounded the festivals
main music stage was a tent housing six of Hanois most
active LGBT organisations, dubbed Diversityland. It

was packed full with rainbow bracelets, necklaces and
stickers, and flanked by young volunteers handing out
literature on all things LGBT.
The festival also brought in a new and audacious act
to the 2014 stage the High-Heeled Dance Troupe.
Dubbed the Ruby Fashion Show, the unlikely band of
five male fashionistas donning six-inch stilettos rocked
out to Beyonce and Lady Gaga to wild applause, and
illustrated in perfect flamboyance the diversity and
inclusion that the festival aimed to embrace.
Although next years ASEAN will shift from diversity
to a new trending topic, the 2014 iteration marks a
groundbreaking step forward for many of Hanois
fledgling social activist organisations. And, on May 24,
Hanois culture and sound was in full, glorious colour.
Karen Hewell
brief ings
Photo by Francis Xavier
Charity of the
Month: Animal
Rescue and Care
n May 7, ARC put up an appeal

on its Facebook page: We
desperately need donations if we
are to continue the work we do!
Any support you can give us will help
enormously!
When they posted again later that night, it
was to say that the crisis had been averted.
Called upon, the community responded
strongly. Over the 24 hours that followed the
initial post, more than VND40 million had
been raised on their online fundraising page
gofundme.com/3l38w0.
The work that ARC and their patron
vet, Bristol Veterinary School-educated Dr.
Nguyen Van Nghia, do is one of the few
protections cats and dogs have in Saigon.
They maintain a low-cost spay and neuter
clinic, provide veterinary services for
low-income pet owners, take in the hurt
and abandoned animals that are brought
their way often being left on Dr. Nghias
doorstep and find pets in their care loving
homes. Its difficult, necessary work, and
ARC has been doing it with aplomb since

2010.
The Long-Term Solution

Increasingly, ARC is putting stock in
education as a long-term solution to the
plight of pets in Saigon.
Peoples intentions are usually good,
without perhaps understanding the realities
of the situation theyre walking into, says
ARCs education coordinator Peter Cornish.
As an example, Peter describes a situation
that ARC often finds itself dealing with.
One of the problems we have is that a kitten
will walk away from its litter, as kittens do,
it will walk away and explore. Mom is over
there doing something else, and somebody
walks along and sees the kitten and assumes
its abandoned. Often its not.
And this is a real issue for us. Were
being brought very healthy kittens who
should have been left probably where they
were, and they would have grown up wild
in the environment their parents grew up
in, and they would have lived a reasonable

life.
This educational approach is the
thought behind ARCs regular seminars
on responsible pet ownership, targeted
at school-aged children and conducted at
schools around Saigon. Theyre trying to
latch onto a trend for humane education
thats catching on here teaching basic
human rights and responsibilities early on.
What we seem to be seeing right now,
Peter says, is young kids are telling their
parents not to drive through red traffic
lights, young kids are telling their parents
wheres your crash helmet? Theyve had
it drilled into them at school wear a
crash helmet. Make sure your mum gives
you one as well. Dont drive through
the traffic light. Dont go the wrong way
up the street. And kids are calling their
parents out on this.
And its happening to a certain extent
with animals.
On May 22, it happened at Canadian
International School in District 7. Chambraud
Melanie Dan Vy, representing the schools
Hand to Paw club, presented the ARC with
over VND10 million raised by the club over
the past year from bake sales and donations.
Hand to Paw has been very supportive of
ARC in the past three years of its existence.
Peter says, We would like to set up similar
clubs in schools around the city, using Hand
to Paw as a reference and as a model.
In addition to their fundraising, Melanie
and her two co-organisers drop in on
classes and pass down the lessons Dr. Nghia
imparted on that day on responsible pet
ownership.
Dr. Nghia talked about the animals that
he cared for, and talked about the animals
that he cares for, and the animals that he
shouldnt have to care for, because theyd
have perfectly healthy lives left where they
were found like the kittens ARC keeps
getting brought their way.
Most importantly he showed plenty
of pictures, and brought a couple of very
patient animals. Its a process, getting to
this world of happy and well-defended cats
and dogs, and ARC is taking the slow steps
necessary to make it happen.
What We Can Do
Theres always the donation route directly
at gofundme.com/3l38w0. Or check out ARCs
web presence at arcpets.com, where you
can find out more ways to help such as
volunteering at the ARC Centre, aka Cat
Ranch, or fostering or adopting one of the
12 lovely cats they currently have on-hand
(another 20 are in foster care).
And later this month, ARC is planning a
funkelicious fundraiser starring Zunk
Bomb, Dat Phonk, The Love Below and Jazz
Art. Sponsored by Word, it should be the
most fun you can shake a cat at. Except dont
do that.
For up-to-the-minute information, check
ARCs Facebook page by searching A.R.C.
Vietnam or click on wordvietnam.com.
Photo by Teresa Welleans
brief ings
ome abandoned dogs and cats find

homes easily. But the hundreds of
animals that end up at Tram Cuu Ho
Cho Meo Hanoi (Hanoi Pet Rescue)
are often more difficult cases: the disabled,
the blind, the elderly. Mic has been abused so
badly that now he cant use his legs and one
of his shoulders is permanently broken; his
back and hips have abscesses inhabited by
hundreds of maggots.
Hes staying in a vet clinic in Tay Ho,
where we're trying to cure his back and
hip. But for his leg, the Vietnamese doctors
said theres not much hope, says Trang.
hanks initially to the work from

Vietnam Vespa Adventures and
of course the Top Gear special
with Clarkson et al parading old
motorbikes the length and breadth of
Vietnam scooter tours are all the rage in
Vietnam. And now a new, fuel-free, driveit-yourself tour is running out of Hoi An
a tour by electric scooter.
Set up by Marc de Swart and Yves Van
Kerrebroeck, Vietnam Scooter Tours has
a fleet of 15 electric bikes. Besides being
eco-friendly, says Yves, theyre super-easy
to drive.
There are no gears to fiddle around
with, he explains. They are really stable
and comfortable, and we always have
a short introduction and driving test at
Cat of the Month

We hope to move him to a shelter in
another country.
For all the sad cases, the shelter also
sees its fair share of happy endings. Wellbehaved, perhaps due to his upbringing
in a pagoda, Bum the puppy is pretty
Instagram-worthy. But an accident made
him unable to stand up or eat, so the monks
wanted to get rid of him.
An hour before we came, a monk
asked somebody to give him a euthanasia
shot, Trang says. So we rushed there
and brought him to the emergency room.
Now Bum can eat again and has regained
his energy, although he still cant move his

hind legs. He has moved to a new home in
Hai Ba Trung.
If you want to adopt a furry critter like
Bum, follow the groups Facebook page
facebook.com/tramcuuhochomeohanoi, which is
regularly updated with photos of animals
up for adoption. To adopt an animal, you
have to agree to spay or neuter the animal,
let the rescue team visit them from time to
time, and bring them to their clinic when
they get sick.
For more information email tramcuuhomeo@
gmail.com or call 0972 563231 / 0922 585701
the beginning of our tour where clients

without any driving experience can try the
bikes.
He adds: The bikes are all licensed and
insured, and because they are electric the
driver does not need a Vietnamese drivers
license. This also allows us to offer
complimentary insurance.
drive through the green rice paddies

and have absolutely no noise or exhaust
fumes.
Yves and Marc are trying to raise
environmental awareness and promote
sustainability through this unique method
of transportation without noise or smoke
pollution. They are also striving to be
socially sustainable by teaming up with
local partners to establish a lasting
improvement in the daily lives of the local
communities in and around Hoi An.
We work closely together with Streets
NGO and Lifestart Foundation, two NGOs
that are doing a great job for the local Hoi
An community.
For more information go to
scootertoursvietnam.com
Drive or be Driven
Of course, not everyone needs to drive
the bikes there is a sit-on-the-back-seat
option available as well. The tours run
through paddies and traffic-free areas that
people would not normally visit. Although
the bikes can do a maximum of 45km/h,
speeds are kept down to 15 or 20km/h.
Says Yves, It is a unique experience to
Tour b
yE
The en
vironm lectric
S
entally
friendl cooter
y way t
o trave
l
Ho Chi minh city

what s on
MELTING POT TURNS 5

Following on the traditions of art, dance
and music that previous Melting Pots have
filled their two days with, Melting Pot 5
will bring together a varied cast of artists
selling their wares, musicians picking
up the tempo and charities reaping the
rewards. This time the good cause is
Saigon Children's Charity, which will use
the funds raised to help disadvantaged
Vietnamese children get an education,

specifically in music and the arts. And the
talent? Why, everybody whos anybody
in Saigon.
Melting Pot 5 will be all day on Jun. 7 and
Jun. 8, at Saigon Outcast, 188/1 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2. For up-to-date information, check
the event on SGOCs Facebook page, facebook.
com/saigonoucast (sic)
CARAVELLE GETS MODERN

For the first time in 15 years,
the landmark Caravelle Hotel is
undergoing property-wide renovations,
which will up-end the front desk
(temporarily moved to the third floor)
and their soon-to-be-expanded lobby
caf. The first round of renovations
should be through by the end of
August, at which time Caf de lOpera
patrons can toast the window-framed
scene at their new champagne corner
and tapas kitchen.
For more information, head to
caravellehotel.com
DJ TONY TOBIAS
Since first catching the bug back in the
breakdance days of the 1980s, Toby Tobias
has been a steady and consistent collector
of many forms of music. DJing at afterhours clubs in London in the 1990s, he
honed his sound and ear while amassing
a small hillock of equipment. During the
mid-2000s, his distinctive and unique
productions played a major part in reviving
interest in discoid and electrofunk-styled
music amongst the partygoers of the UK
and further afield... and in the 2010s hes
out here, playing a high-calibre set at The
Observatory on Jun. 6. Supporting will be
Elia and Hibiya Line.
Tony Tobias comes to The Observatory
cnr. of Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1 Jun. 6,
starting at 10pm. Tickets are VND100,000
THE PERFECT PHOTOGRAPH
SUMMER NIGHT JOY RIDE

Now that biking has come into its own
in Ho Chi Minh City, the enthusiasts at
The Bike Shop figure maybe its time to
take back the night! Gather with them
on Jun. 20, and get ready to spread the
joy of cycling to some less than receptive
road-sharers. Dont worry, youll end
the night back at The Bike Shop, and all
trespassers will eventually be forgiven, in
buy-one-get-one apple cider fashion.

The 15km D2 JoyRide is on the night
of Jun. 20, meeting at The Bike Shop (250
Nguyen Van Huong, Q2) at 7pm. Bring
a helmet, a bike with lights and a good
attitude, and you too can spread the word!
NB: its strongly suggested that riders under
the age of 12 do not participate, as this is a
self-organised ride and everyone needs to be
responsible for their own safety and well being
Its not every day that a top photographer

like Hai Dong gives free training at an
international school. But Renaissance
International School Saigon has pulled
off the improbable, and this Saigon
Times photojournalist turned fashion
photographer will be sharing tips with the
first 60 people to sign up on Jun. 5. Learn
from a pro, and by the end of the day youll
have graduated from Facebook selfie-taker
to grizzled veteran.
Hai Dong will hold a free workshop at
Renaissance International School Saigon
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 on Jun. 7, from
8am to noon. To attend, contact admissions@
renaissance.edu.vn, for a preview of Hai Dongs
work, go to haidongstudio.com
THE VND135 MILLION HAIRCUT!

The American School of Vietnam
(TAS) teamed up with Score Tech, Al
Frescos,and Heartbeat Vietnam with
the goal of raising VND105 million in a
one-week fundraiser to save the lives of
five children in desperate need of heart
surgery. Heartbeat Vietnam identifies
the most critical cases of children in
Vietnam who need immediate heart
surgery and provides them with lifesaving medical attention.
The fundraising week kicked off on
May 19 with an all-school assembly
complete with live music, videos and
guest speakers. Students and teachers
actively raised money through a
variety of activities including donation
envelopes, bake sales, art auctions,
pizza sales, T-shirt sales, carnivalstyle games and a variety of other

fun events. The fundraiser concluded
on May 26 with a celebration
assembly after TAS not only met, but
exceeded the goal by raising over
VND135,000,000.
As a motivating factor, Coach
Michael Barrs allowed the students to
choose his new hair style if they could
meet the goal. The new hairstyle a
mohawk with racing stripes was
created live on stage during the May 26
assembly, much to the schools delight.
Said Michael: The haircut is a funny
reward to encourage our students to take
ownership and enjoy the whole process
while learning the value of altruism.
Ho Chi minh city

what s on
Art Shows
oNiReaKHoWaRiGNoRaLiSMe
A SLICE OF NICE
Partnering with disadvantaged youth-focused charity KOTO, the
Park Hyatt Saigon held a soup kitchen to bring hearty nutritious
chicken pho to the orphans at the Dieu Giac Pagoda in April. Hyatt
contributed the same hotel-grade pho they give dinner guests, and
KOTO sent them off with gift bags of daily necessities.
@ Galerie Quynh, 65 De Tham, Q1

Until Jul. 19
Truc-Anh is having his second
solo exhibition at Galerie Quynh
this month, and it should be
every bit as enigmatic and
dreamy as the first. Pronounced
oneiric and then a bunch
of other sounds, the works
contained draw on Truc-Anhs
dream world a mash-up of
Juergen Teller centerfolds and
Hayao Miyazaki ghosts. Rich
in overlapping tales and selfreferences, Truc-Anhs paintings
form their own narrative,
one that questions reason
and challenges his viewers
knowledge.
Born Frenemies
FOOTBALL FOR A GOOD CAUSE

The British Business Group Vietnam (BBGV) will hold the BBGV
Inter-Company Football Tournament for Charity in HCMC on Jul. 19,
bringing together 16 companies whose competitive instincts will
be geared towards a common cause. Not only will this day bring
together the best football talent Ho Chi Minh Citys business
world has to offer, but it will also be day-long fun for families and
supportive co-workers as well.
Companies can register with Tran at officemanager@bbgv.org or
Claudia at claudia.lambie@bbgv.org on a first-come, first-served basis.
Diamond, gold and silver sponsorship packages are also available,
for cash and in-kind donations.
For more information on July 19s BBGV Inter-Company Football
Tournament for Charity in HCMC, contact Tran at officemanager@bbgv.
org or Claudia at claudia.lambie@bbgv.org. The festivities will run from
8.30am to 5.30pm
@ Vin Gallery, 6 Le Van Mien, Q2

Until Jun. 14; opening reception
June 6, 6pm to 8pm
Kris Kotcher talks a good game,
but once you get to know him
hes just a big softie. His work
is in the street art vein, but hes
inspired by the childrens books
and cartoons he loved as a kid.
Obviously, hes also inspired by
graffiti and other lowbrow arts
the Hyde part of his imagery.
With these dueling influences,
his street name Frenemy has
become a perfect identifier,
the perfect introduction to his
world of cuddly monsters doing
weird things.
Impressionism Meets
Impressive Dcor
@ Austin Home Interiors, 42
Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2
Jun. 5, 4.30pm to 7.30pm
The impressionist artist Quan

Tho is gracing the newly
opened District 2 showroom of
Austin Home Interiors with his
natural portraits and landscape
paintings. In addition to the art
on the walls, those who stop
in will be entered into a raffle
for some of the upholstered art
objects that Austin Home deals
in.
A Tale of Two Cities

@ Au Parc, 23 Hanh Thuynh, Q1
Until Aug. 31, opening reception
Jun. 5, 6.30pm to 9.30pm
Following up on last years
debut exhibition, Richie
Fawcett has a new pen-andink collection, focusing on
the roadside rhythms of Ho
Chi Minh City and Hanoi.
In wanders around both
cities, Richie always keeps
a sketchpad handy, sitting
down on a curbside wherever
he feels like it and sketches
mesmerising snapshots
of city life. Although not
classically trained in drawing,
Richie studied Egyptian
Archaeology at the University
in London before becoming
an archaeological wreck
diver, a freelance editorial
photographer (shooting for
lifestyle mags like FHM, GQ
and Loaded) and a successful
cocktail mixologist and bar
consultant. The exhibition
heads up to Hanois Chula in
January 2015.
THE MOST TITLED CREW IN THE DANCE BATTLE CIRCUIT

The choreography of Pockemon Crew is a
combination of two very different things:
hip hop dance and 1930s silent movies.
Sometimes gentle, sometimes frenzied,
the energy of hip-hop is linked with the
narrative power of the silent film. In
residence at the National Opera of Lyon
since 2003, these guys are a special blend
TA LAIS ADVENTUROUS SUMMER
DYING IS A WILD NIGHT
This summer, the team behind the Ta

Lai Longhouse is teaming with pros like
iKnow and LAtelier to bring your kids
some of the most adventurous, in-depth
and educational experiences the jungles of
Cat Tien National Park can provide. There
are four adventure options to choose from
in the summer school, ranging from four to
seven days long and intended for kids age
six to 11.
The options range from iPad-aided
outdoorsiness to bear rescue centre visits,
bamboo raft competitions to zip-lining,
making creative rock climbing logbooks
to participating in an arts and crafts camp.
Ta Lai Longhouse will keep your kids on
your toes, and send them home with an
experience they couldnt have in 100 Ho
Chi Minh City summers.
For more information on Ta Lai Longhouse
Summer Camps, click on talai-adventure.vn
Gritty vocals. Finger-style blues

guitar. Montral-bred indie pop.
Haitian-Canadian folk.
If these varied elements seem like
an intense combination, youll want
to check out Mlissa Laveauxs Jun.
28 show at Idecaf. Having opened
for neo-soul types like Meshell
Ndegeocello and indie folker Feist,
shes well-seasoned and on the cusp
of something. Touring off her slicklyproduced album Dying is a Wild Night,
Laveaux brings something to Saigon
that we rarely get the raw soul of
another world.
Mlissa Laveaux performs at Idecaf
28 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Jun. 28, 8pm.
Tickets are VND100,000, 50 percent
off for students. For more info, email
culturel@consulfrance-hcm.org
of scholarly finesse and street style and

theyre bringing their whirlwind to Saigon.
See Pockemon Crews Silence, We Turn! at
Ben Thanh Theatre, 6 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1
Jun. 12 at 8pm. Tickets range from VND90,000
to VND150,000, with 50 percent discounts
for students. For more info, email culture1@
consulfrance-hcm.org
Ho Chi minh city

what s on
Fathers Day: JunE 15
FUTURE NOW MUSIC FESTIVAL

In the latest mega-festival to hit Saigon, 25,000 Facebook likers are
going to pack out the Saigon Exhibition & Convention Center
on Jun. 7 to catch EDM demigods Afrojack, Far East Movement
and Thu Minh. Tickets have been selling briskly, and babes have
been popping up on their Facebook feed with temporary tattoos in
compromising places. Sounds like a recipe for a good dance party.
The Future Now Music Festival is happening Jun. 7 at the Saigon
Exhibition & Convention Center, 799 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7. Tickets
range from VND500,000 to VND1.5 million, and can be purchased at
Circle K stores and ticketbox.vn/futurenow. For more info, go to facebook.
com/futurenowmusicfestival
After Mom got a day, Dad got one too. Show them that he
comes first this Fathers Day.
60-Minute Balinese
Massage
@ Kara Spa at the Caravelle
Hotel
caravellehotel.com
Hard-working dads need
Balinese massages, and Kara
Spa knows that this Jun. 15 is
a good day for dad to drop his
tough guy act and give into
relaxation. Help him out and
spring for Karas Fathers Day
promotion VND1.35 million
for a 60-minute Balinese
massage and a 30-minute foot
reflexology treatment after
he cleans up the garage.
The Best Brunch of the

Year
MISS OCEAN VIETNAM 2014

Lots of beauty pageant contestants talk a good game about the
environment, but the dreamboats at The Grand Ho Tram Strips
Miss Ocean Vietnam 2014 Gala are actually helping the coastal charity
Blue Ocean World with their good looks, to the tune of VND220
million. At the gala, fashion and a VND1.6 billion jeweled crown
helped raise awareness of the importance of Vietnams magnificent
coastline and the ocean that lies off it. In the end, bombshell Le Thi
Van Quynh went home with the honours, crowned The Grand
Beauty at a Zumba dance pool party.
See pictures of the May pageant on The Grand Ho Tram Strips
Facebook page at facebook.com/thegrandhotramstrip
@ Market 39 at InterContinental
Asiana
icasianasaigon.com
The team at Market 39
couldnt decide what your
dad would like so they put
it all on the menu. The lavish
meal includes champagne,
salmon, steak, lobster and a
variety of sumptuous desserts.
Priced at VND1,599,000++,
it includes a free flow of
Veuve Clicquot, house wines,
draught beer, cocktails and
soft drinks. Or come later for
the Veuve-less dinner, priced
at VND1,098,000++.
New Zealand on the Menu

@ Corso Steakhouse at the Norfolk
Hotel
norfolkhotel.com.vn
At Corso all this month, you
can get the finest foods of
New Zealand, from seared
pepper salmon salad and queen
scallops caesar to signature
main courses like New Zealand
strip-loin steak, spicy lamb
shank with wild mushroom
risotto and sauted jumbo tiger
prawn with parmesan cheese
and lobster brandy cream
sauce. The kind folks at Corso
know its easier to conquer
homesickness on a full belly.
Champagne Sunday
@ Saigon Caf at Sheraton
sheratonsaigon.com
The pros: Saigon Caf is
stocking wok-fried seafood
with asparagus in spicy sauce,
grilled salmon with teriyaki
sauce and sesame seed, crispy
soft shell crab and prawn rolled
with taro on this specialist of
occasions. The cons: if you treat
him like this one day hes going
to expect it all the time.
Oh what the heck, roll the
dice VND1,250,000++ for
adults, including free flows of
champagne, house wine, cocktails
and draught beer, VND625,000++
for the four to 11-year-old class.
Photo by Ed Weinberg
PRIME MOVER
Adrian OConnell
NEW PRINCIPAL AT THE PEARL
The International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) keeps finding
pearls in the educational world and now theyve found a
shiny one. Lisa Johnson, with 23 years of experience in the US
and international schools, and a speciality in the teaching of
academically advanced children, is coming on as ISSPs new
principal, toting a slew of awards. She is passionate about
establishing and fostering a learning environment that is studentcentred, collaborative and flexible and is just the right person to
take ISSP to the next level.
For more info about ISSP, head to issp.edu.vn
KIDS CHANGE THE

WORLD
Kids are our future... duh.
But theres a certain brand of
kid who knows this as well,
and they took centre stage
at Australian International
Schools people-and-theirenvironment-focused Year 6
IB Exhibition, with insights
into topics as far flung and
necessary as the desalination
of ocean water and
sustainable cities. Along with
all the idealism, they also
demonstrated one way in
which they refuse to change
inflicting a rendition of
Katy Perrys Roar on the ears
of parents and peers alike.
Jameson Vietnam Brand Rep, Lead

singer for James and the Van Der Beeks
facebook.com/jamesandthevanderbeeks
Despite having been in Vietnam for less than a year, Adrian has
made a mark organising cool events like the Jameson Jam at
Saigon Outcast, fronting dance punk prodigies James and the
Van Der Beeks and slapping Jameson logos up on event posters
everywhere he goes.
Show Im really excited

about: It has to be The Melting
Pot out in Saigon Outcast, Jun.

7 and Jun. 8. Live music, dance
and artisan stalls showcasing the
variety of talent in this city, all in
the name of charity. Good karma
all round!
Best nights out last

month: The Cairos at Cargo
Bar and Postiljonen at La Fenetre

Soleil. Its always good when international bands drop by! And
when there are such great local
acts like Space Panther, James
and the Van Der Beeks and the
Secret Asians to support, you
know youre in for a good show!
Best meal from last

month: Bringing it back to
basics with some home cooking

of late.
Funniest YouTube clip

of the month: I dont really
browse or stumble upon anything on YouTube. If Im looking

for some humour I usually go
for Irish comedian Dylan Moran.
Stand-up comedy at its best.
CLASSICS OVER COCKTAILS

Through Jun. 20, the French classical pianist and jazz singer Gabrielle
Jeanselme will serenade guests in Sofitels Boudoir Lounge. Her chic
swing will make picking up that second cosmo so much easier.
Catch Gabrielle Jeanselme at the Boudoir Lounge in the Sofitel, 17
Le Duan, Q1 Tuesday through Saturday, 8pm to 11.45pm
I wish this band would

come to town: A Plastic
Rose, amazing Irish band and

great friends of mine, two birds
with one stone! If theyre busy,
I would definitely be happy if
Tom Waits dropped by.
How the scene is going

in general? At this stage
it feels like the scene has surpassed the audience. There are
so many wonderful passionate
people involved in pushing
the scene forward, and I would
love to see more of a turnout
to support these hard working
class heroes.
The best secret in town

is: The rules of the road. And
the Jameson Jam on Friday at

Saigon Outcast never fails to
surprise me with the talented
musicians that turn up.
Where I go when I go out

on my own: I used to love
driving around on my scooter
at night. If Im going out on my
own Ill try to find somewhere I
can embrace that.
Song I cant get out of

If my older-yet-still-cool
my head: Shameless plug but I Mom came to town, I
cant get our (James and the Van would take her to:
Der Beeks) new song Window
Creepers out of my head. Its a
working title which will probably change multiple times just
to make it difficult on us.
Some nice restaurants in town,

followed by the phrase this
ones on me. Not that I need to
flatter my Ma, eating out is just
so affordable here.
Ho Chi minh city

Just In
MY LITTLE VIETNAM.COM
After one year, the team behind
mylittlevietnam.com is aiming to make
orienting a snap, in five languages. In one
convenient and easily-navigated website,
consumer options, transit, basic info and
bookings are all at hand, helping to make
the at-times overwhelming process of
travelling Vietnam a little easier to grasp.
Click on mylittlevietnam.com and start
discovering the country
NEW RESTAURANT OF THE

MONTH: BOOM BOOM BURGER
With a new McDonalds just opened, its
easy to forget the little guys whove been
supplying us with burgers this whole time.
Standout burger delivery service Boom
Boom Burger of the simple, no-nonsense
menu and the comparisons to cult California
burger chain In-N-Out Burger have
recently opened a Thao Dien headquarters,
right down the street from Burger King.
The idea behind Boom Boom Burger
came from Si Huynh, originally from
California, who just wanted a good burger
to eat in Ho Chi Minh City. With help from
his chef friend, Shawn Pham, they used
their favourite burger In-N-Out as a
template. Like In-N-Out, they wanted to
keep their menu simple, to focus on perfect
burgers, sweet potato fries, jalapeno-infused
beef patties and special avocado blends.
Unlike those other burger spots, they
treat the form as art. They use freshly
ground Australian meat for their patties,
and bring in potatoes from Dalat almost
daily. And thats why its a shame to wait
that extra 15 minutes of delivery time to
bite into the tidy 75g morsels freshness
is their hallmark, and what sets them apart
from the other slick logos down the block.
Boom Boom Burgers new eat-in location is at
2 Thao Dien, Q2. As always, they deliver visit
boomboomburgers.wago.co or call 0909 532378
THE FAN CLUB

With the introduction of 12 quality screens
and eight draught beers to the ground
floor of District 2s The Vista, being a fan
in Ho Chi Minh City has gotten a bit more
rewarding. The music is DJ-spun and the
burgers are first-rate, and quiz nights and
barbecue days are scheduled monthly. What

more do you need?
Check out Saigons newest sports bar, The
Fan Club, on the ground floor of The Vista,
628C Hanoi Highway, Q2. For more info, check
dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub
NEW BARBECUE GARDEN

The Saigon dining staple with the teepees
and delicious barbecue has now got a new
iteration only 350m down the street. The new
1,200sqm Barbecue Garden and aircon indoor
dining space is at 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,
on the site formerly occupied by Bun Ta just
across the road from Reunification Palace.
After seven years of serving up some of the
best barbecue Saigon has to offer, its about

time Barbecue Garden let out their belt a little.
And for those who are interested, theres
now a Barbecue Garden in Kuala Lumpur
and Manila. Its good to see another local
Vietnamese brand expanding overseas.
Visit the new Barbecue Garden at 134-136
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1
PENDOLASCO UPS THE ANTE

Saigons longest running Italian restaurant
has made some fairly noticeable changes
in recent months. Not to the overall menu,
look and feel of both the downtown space
and the District 2 version of the original.
Indeed, Pendolasco Co and Pendo 2 remain
as classic as ever. Instead, theyve added
a new, fortnightly changing gourmet
menu full of contemporary dishes such
as a modern Italian take on that most
traditional of British dishes, the beef
wellington (VND480,000), salmon and
scallops with black ink balsamic risotto

(VND210,000) and roasted bacon-wrapped
liver with caramelized onions, panseared scallops and a bisque reduction
(VND210,000).
Other moves into the modern world
include a unique delivery-by-Facebook
system. Simply go to their Facebook page
Pendo 2 (for Thao Dien) or Pendolasco
1 (for downtown) and click on the menu
button. From here follow the instructions,
click on the menu items and order your
delivery directly through their Facebook

page. Its fast, its efficient and it means you
dont need to go through a third party to
arrange your delivery.
Additional improvements include iPad
menus in three languages English,
Vietnamese and Japanese and a wine
cellar in both locations selling wine for
restaurant consumption at near retail prices.
Pop into Pendolasco at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1
or 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 or check them out on
Facebook
A SHORT RIDE IN THE JUNGLE

Riding an ageing, pink Honda Cub dubbed The
Pink Panther sourced and pimped by Digby
and Glenn at Explore Indochina in Hoi An,
Ants Bolingbroke-Kent rattled down the Ho Chi
Minh Trail last year, taking pictures along the
way. Bumping and clunking several thousand
miles through Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia, she
had some near misses with cluster bombs, early
monsoon mud and overly-lascivious individuals,
but lived to write a book about the tale.
With the A Short Ride in the Jungle: The
Ho Chi Minh Trail by Motorcycle picking up
accolades in the UK, its time we gave this tale
of our past some attention.
For more info, click on theitinerant.co.uk
or email dean@summersdale.com. The book is
presently available as an e-book on amazon.com
or in print from Asia Books in Thailand and other
books shops in Malaysia and Singapore
Ho Chi minh city

Just In
MAISON SONGS CRUISE

CAPSULE
VERY NGON HOME-WEARS

Now you can do more than just decorate
your home with Very Ngon Homewares
you can also wear them.
Their new unisex kimono-style robe is
comfortable enough for use around the
house and fashionable enough to wear
out of it adorned with vintage French
postcards and printed by hand.
In addition, their line has added classy
drawstring bags and tea towels, adorned
in the same classic style. Find their
products at LUsine, Sofitels Gourmand
shop and Gingko Concept Store in
Ho Chi Minh City, Tan My Design
and LAtelier in Hanoi and soon,
Collective in Hoi An.
For more information on Very
Ngon Homewares, check facebook.com/
veryngonhomewares
SAIGONS REGGAE TEMPLE

Saigons first reggae bar is stepping into the
space left behind by Bo Nong Ethnic Cabaret
on Nguyen Trai, just around the corner from
The Observatory. Saigon Vibrations, is
riding on the back of DJ Morgan Mugniers
rasta riddims. The party people of Saigon
like reggae so much that Vibrations has been
packing them in even in the early going,
with regular nights like Tropical Wednesdays
and Underground Saturdays providing that
dirty dub and Caribbean breeze, and a new
Thursday-before-midnight shots-only ladies
night comboing nicely with The Observatorys
Thursday joint Optimist Club.
Saigon Vibrations is at 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1.
Like them at facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
SONG has cast aside its trademark

bohemian-chic for the light and airy
pastels of its new cruise capsule a
timeless collection that will fit whenever
youre somewhere hot, wind-swept
and relaxing. For this capsule, most of
the women and kid-centric clothes are
loosely woven with gauze, delicate and
lightweight, and in pleasing shades of
pink, cream and orion blue.
Pick up SONGs new offerings at their
outlet at 63 Pasteur, Q1, or check them out
online at maisonsong.com
JUST HOLD THE SNAKES

Binh Thanhs new Tegu Caf is filling an
underserved need in Ho Chi Minh City
giving us a place to have our cups of
coffee with lizards on our laps and snakes
around our necks.
Just order a ca phe sua da and the
waitress will ask if you would like that
with a lizard or a snake.
Yes, please!
The reptilian delights can be handled,
cuddled, hugged and kissed, licked
maybe, but definitely not eaten.
Tegu Caf is at 125 Duong D1, Binh Thanh,
and on facebook.com/tegu.coffee
LA FIANCE DU FACTEURS THIRD

COLLECTION
THE BEAUTY OF DIEN BIEN PHU

The only surviving artist soldier present for
the famous battle of Dien Bien Phu, Colonel
Pham Thanh Tam, has released a new
book of 300-plus paintings, drawings and
photographs drawn from his extraordinary
experience 60 years ago.
Tam, who has gained international fame
from his Thames & Hudson-published
journal of Dien Bien Phu-era visual
reportage, is regarded as one of the most
important combat artists and frontline
reporters of his generation. This book

depicts and narrates Tams eyewitness,
firsthand experience of those 56
unforgettable days and nights of heroism,
camaraderie and sacrifice on a legendary
scale.
Colonel Pham Thanh Tams latest book, Dien
Bien Phu, is available at the Dogma Collection
Gallery Shop at 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung,
Q1, and the Museum of Fine Arts and War
Remnants Museum bookshops
La Fiance du Facteur is a French-owned,

Vietnam-based jewellery brand whose
aim is to pay respect to all women
throughout history in their designs. After
sampling the heroic examples of Tristans
doomed lover Iseult and Anna May
Wong, the first internationally-recognised
Chinese actress, who charmingly and
fiercely battled the racist reactions her
appearance provoked, theyre taking on
the Nereids.
In Greek mythology, the Nereids are
nymphs, goddesses of the sea. For the
collection inspired by their whimsical and
mesmerising beauty, a whole year was
needed to find the perfect camaeux of
purple which corresponds to the depth of
the oceans.
For more on this unique collection, check
lafianceedufacteur.com
AUSTIN HOME INTERIORS

The team at Austin Home has been a bit
homesick, and they thought there might
be some others out there feeling the
same way. In opening their new District
2 showroom, theyre bringing the best of
American classic and modern furnishings
to the living rooms of Ho Chi Minh City,
supplied by makers like John-Richard,
Moore Councill, Emporium Home, Surya
and their own designers.

To kick things off, theyre organising a
wine-accompanied art exhibition on Jun.
5 so you can get a sense for the kind
of parties you can expect in the relaxed
environment Austin Home provides.
Austin Home Interiors new showroom
is at 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2. For more
information, visit austinhomeinteriors.com
overscene ho chi minh
apocalaughs now
Photos by Kyle Phanroy

Dwayne Perkins and Paul Myrehaug
flew in from far-off climes to give the
Saigon massive an injection of standup comedy
m club danang
opening
Photos by Christian Berg and Mott Visuals

The InterCon Danang keeps lining
up the talent, and there was plenty on
display at the premiere of Vietnams
most exclusive nightclub
miss Ocean
Photos provided by The Grand Ho Tram

Strip
The Grand Ho Tram Strip lured all
of its beautiful mermaids out of the
water for a pageant to end all pageants
"When I was young we had to tranquilise our cat Peppy when we travelled on aeroplanes.
Theres nothing quite as entertaining as a high cat" overheard at Apocalaughs Now
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordhcmc.com and we'll take a look.
postiljonen
Photos by Francis Xavier

The first gig of Everyones a DJs
birthday month made us all feel five
again, wondrous and wide-eyed in the
presence of dream pop
the beek is peaked!
Photos by Ed Weinberg
James and the Van Der Beeks (no
relation) made their long-awaited debut
at Cargo, opening for the Cairos with 20
minutes of blistering dance punk
Hcmc
june 2014
MELTING POT 5
astes LikeChicken.
Innocent Killaz.
Cowtown. Cat
Pylon. 67s. The Magic
Pinions. The Love Below. DJ
Morgan. Secret Asians. Jazz
Band with Mariedel. Go, go,
go.
POCKEMON CREW
hat happens
when you
combine hip-hop
dance and silent
film? Were not sure yet, but
evidently lots and lots of
dance battle awards.
JUN. 7 + 8 SAIGON OUTCAST
JUN. 12 BEN THANH THEATRE
01 sunday
09 Monday
CHILDRENS DAY.
SPECIAL OFFER FOR CHILDREN. @ Market 39, Intercontinental Asiana
Saigon
See more celebration suggestions in Whats On
EARLY BIRD SPECIAL. Everyday from 6 to 9pm buy 1 drink get 1 @ Last
Call
02 monday
03 tuesday
10 Tuesday
FRENEMIES EXHIBITION BY KRIS KOTCHER. Until Jun. 14 @ VinGallery.
See Whats On
11 Wednesday
HAPPY HOUR. Tue. To Fri. from 6pm to 8pm, 50k for all cocktails and
mixers @ Saigon Outcast
04 wednesday
12 Thursday
05 thursday
VOX POPS BY THE SAIGON PLAYERS. From Jun. 12 to 15 @ McSorleys.

See Big 5
POCKEMON CREWS SILENCE, WE TURN! 8pm @ Ben Thanh Theatre.
See Whats On
MEET THE ARTIST RECEPTION. 4.30pm Meetup and exhibiting Quan Tho
paintings @ Austin Home Interiors. See austinhomeinteriors.com for info
LITTLE TALKS LIVE BAND. 9.30pm @ Last Call
13 Friday
06 friday
SPIRIT OF HOUSE WITH DJ VALENTIN. 10pm @ Last Call
DJ TONY TOBIAS. 10pm @ The Observatory. See Whats On
07 saturday
MELTING POT 5: MUSIC AND ART FESTIVAL. 2pm @ Saigon Outcast
FUTURE NOW MUSIC FESTIVAL. @ Saigon Exhibition & Convention
Center. See Whats On
HAI DONGS PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP. From 8am to noon @
Renaissance International School. See Whats On
5, 6, 7, 8! 7.30pm, Dancenter full-length dance show @ Youth Culture
House. See Whats On
OPENING GAME OF THE WORLD CUP : BRAZIL VS. CROATIA. 3am
14 Saturday
90S HIP HOP RNB WITH DJ VALENTIN. 10pm @ Last Call
WORLD CUP: SPAIN VS. NETHERLANDS. 2am
08 sunday
15 Sunday
MELTING POT 5: MUSIC AND ART FESTIVAL. 2pm @ Saigon Outcast

5, 6, 7, 8! 3pm, Dancenter full-length dance show @ Youth Culture
House. See Whats On
FATHERS DAY. See celebration suggestions in Whats On

ROCK PAPER SCISSORS TOURNAMENT. 3pm @ Saigon Outcast
WORLD CUP: ENGLAND VS. ITALY. 5am
To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com

by no later than Jun. 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo
D2 JOYRIDE
efore you head into

the weekend, take a
spin with Saigons
joyriders over a 15km
stretch of District 2 then
segue into the weekends
unhealthy part over a postride cider.
MELISSA LAVEAUX
decaf continues to subsidise

our art appetites with
talents such as this unique
indie folker with the fingerstyle blues guitar.
JUN. 28 IDECAF
JUN. 20 THE BIKE SHOP
16 Monday
23 Monday
WORLD CUP: GERMANY VS. PORTUGAL. 11pm
WORLD CUP: USA VS. PORTUGAL. 5am
17 Tuesday
24 Tuesday
TRUC-ANH SOLO EXHIBITION: oNiReaKHoWaRiGNoRaLiSMe. Until Jul.

19 @ Galerie Quynh. See Whats On
DOUBLE TROUBLE. Every Tue. Buy 1 drink get 1 free all night long @ Last
Call
18 Wednesday
25 Wednesday
WORLD CUP : SPAIN VS. CHILE. 11pm
A TALE OF TWO CITIES BY RICHIE FAWCETT. Until Aug. 31 @ Au Parc.

See Whats On
19 Thursday
26 Thursday
LIVE JAZZ. 8pm every Thu. @ La Fenetre Soleil
27 Friday
SPIRIT OF HOUSE WITH DJ VALENTIN. 10pm @ Last Call
28 saturday
NIC FORD PLANETS SUITE. 10pm @ Last Call
MLISSA LAVEAUX PERFORMS AT IDECAF. 8pm @ IDECAF
CRAIG THOMAS GALLERYS FIFTH ANNIVERSARY GROUP EXHIBITION.
Until Jul. 18 @ Craig Thomas Gallery. See Big 5
LADIES PROMOTION. Every Thu. from 6 to 9pm, Ladies in groups of 3 get
a complimentary cocktail @ Last Call
29 sunday
20 Friday
SUMMER NIGHT JOYRIDE. 7pm @ The Bike Shop. See Whats On
FRIDAY JAMESON JAM NIGHT. 8pm every Fri. @ Saigon Outcast
21 Saturday
29 sunday
WORLD CUP: SWITZERLAND VS. FRANCE. 2am

GABRIELLE JEANSELME JAZZ SINGER. From Tue. To Sat. at Boudoir
Lounge, Sofitel Saigon. See Whats On
SUNDAY-SIDE-UP. Sunday BBQ and music 3pm every Sun. @ Saigon

Outcast
22 Sunday
30 monday
hanoi
what s on
ARTSY SUMMER BREAK

Help your kids get in touch with their
artistic sides over the summer break,
with Work Room Fours summer courses
beginning on Monday, Jul. 14 and
continuing through to Aug. 1. By working
with other students on collaborative art
projects throughout the course, students
will experiment with different techniques
and mediums and have a final masterpiece
to show for their hard work.
Work Room Four is located in the Packexim
Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15,
An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho. The Summer Art
School courses run from Jul. 14 until Aug. 1
from 9am to 3.30pm. Visit workroomfour.com
for more details
AMAZING PHOTOS, AMAZING DESTINATIONS

From a collaboration between Travellive
Magazine and the Department of Tourism
for The Philippines in Vietnam comes great
things. After a successful debut photo tour
to Korea and Malaysia, the Amazing Photo
Tour is back for its newest journey, to Manila
and Cebu in The Philippines. Armed with
cameras and plane tickets courtesy of Cebu
Pacific Airlines, a team of journalists and
photographers captured the island country
at the end of May. Beginning on Jun. 28 at

InterContinental Hanoi Westlake, their
most inspiring works will be on display
in an exclusive photo exhibition, with free
entrance to the public.
Amazing Photo Journeys photo exhibition
takes place from Jun. 28 to Jul. 13 at
InterContinental Hanoi Westlake, Ngo 1
Au Co, Tay Ho. For more information, visit
amazingphototour.vn
SUMMER ARTS
Manzi Art Space is going international
for the month of June, and hosting some
of Asias most talented artists to showcase
their work. The month is kicking off
on Jun. 3 from 10am with Japanese
artist Miya, whose oil paintings and
Karensansui Garden-inspired installation
made of salt pushes boundaries hardly
touched by her contemporaries. Then,
on Jun. 6, Manzi is swapping gears to
the silver screen in collaboration with
TPD with a series of experimental short
films by Vietnamese filmmakers. The
series entitled Chieu Bong brings art and
cinematic wonder together in one space.
Then on Jun. 13 at 6.30pm, sculptor
Thai Nhat Minh takes the stage solo for
the first time at Manzi with Breeding
Season, a site-specific exhibition that
explores the relationship between
sculpture and space.
Manzi Art Space is located at 14 Phan Huy
Ich, Ba Dinh. Get more information on all
of Manzis upcoming art shows by visiting
facebook.com/manzi-art-space
SOULFUL SOPHISTICATION
Montreal native singer-songwriter Melissa
Laveaux began as a folk artist, with soulful
lyrics and a sensual voice that touched on
deeply personal topics of love and lost.
Now, having grown into more powerful
pop-rock influences, she maintains her
soulful songwriting with orchestral
rhythms and synthetic sounds. She comes
to the LEspace stage to showcase her sultry
song stylings on Jun. 24.
Melissa Laveaux comes to LEspace
Auditorium on Jun. 24 from 8pm. Tickets are
available for VND120,000, with discounts for
LEspace members. Buy tickets at LEspace at 24
Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
GET CULTURED WITH THE

CLASSICS
French classical quarter Quatuor Parisii
comes to LEspace on Jun. 7 from 8pm,
bringing along with them some of the
most celebrated classical compositions and
stylings in Francophone music. With their
contemporary twists on Beethoven, Boulez,
Milhaud and Campo, Quatuor Parisii blurs
the boundaries between modern music and
the classical greats of the past.
Quatuor Parisii comes to LEspace
VND120,000, and VND60,000 for LEspace
members. Buy your tickets at LEspace at 24
Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
Photo by Diego Chula
PRIME MOVER
John Sylvan
Owner of The Hanoi Social Club
facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub
HAPPY (EARLY) BIRTHDAY, AMERICA!

The patriots at the American Chamber of Commerce are donning
their party hats early in celebration of next months Independence
Day. On Jun. 8 at The American Club, everything will be red,
white and blue for the Independence Day picnic and party.
Packed with family-friendly fun including live music, circus
performances and lots of fun activities for kids the picnic
marks the 20th annual festivity hosted by AmCham. Tickets are
VND250,000 for adults and VND150,000 for kids. Buy your tickets
before Jun. 4 for the best prices.
Tickets for the AmCham 20th annual Independence Day Picnic at The
American Club, 21 Hai Ba Trung, are on sale at AmCham now. Call (04)
3934 2790 for purchases. The picnic starts at 6pm on Sunday, Jun. 8
John Sylvan came to Vietnam on a posting for Engineers Without

Borders 5 years ago. A selfish desire for poached eggs on sourdough
rye led him to create The Hanoi Social Club in 2011. Part cafe, part
intimate music venue, The Hanoi Social Club has hosted over 30
music acts from all over the world.
Event Im really excited Song I cant get out of

about: The upcoming Songs my head: Tree by the River
of Bob Dylan night at The

Hanoi Social Club on Jun. 13.
Ahh, that twanging guitar...
Best night out last

month: Catching up with
Best meal from last
month: I discovered a new
thing called bo bia ngot a
roll of shredded coconut,
black sesame and malted
sugar. So simple, yet so
delicious! (Yes, it's on the
menu at the Social Club
now!)
comedian Stewart Lee

deftly mocking sexist
conservatives.
How is the Hanoi

restaurant scene
going? Healthy ingredients
like chia seeds, hibiscus and

quinoa are readily available
in Hanoi, yet no international
restaurants seem to be
taking advantage of these
interesting foods.
The best secret in

town is: The improvised
showing a really nice

community street scene near
my house in Truc Bach (121
likes).
Funniest YouTube clip

of the month: Stand-up
I wish this band would

come to town: Laura
Marling.
old friends for dinner at

funky Ray Quan.
Thing I posted on
Facebook that got
the most likes: A photo
by Iron and Wine. Nature,

love, reminiscence sounds.
community-jam music
sessions in the garden at the
Social Club.
Where I go when I go
out on my own: A bicycle
ride around West Lake.
If my older-yet-stillcool mum came to

town, I would take her
to: Watch local folk music
goddess Le Cat Trong Ly.
hanoi
what s on
COSMIC BALLET
On Jun. 21 at the Youth Theatre, a darkened
auditorium will be lit by nothing more than
two dancers and a stunning show of light and
movement, with Notte. Highlighting the tug
and pull between a male and female dancer,
the hypnotic cosmic ballet is blanketed
with constellations, swirling galaxies and
twinkling stars in one of Hanois most
captivating and beautiful visual feasts.
Notte will show at the Youth Theatre, 11 Ngo
Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung on Jun. 21 from 8pm.
Tickets on sale for VND120,000 can be purchased
at LEspace at 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
BLAST(S) FROM THE PAST

Madake doesnt mind the summer heat,
and their social calendar for the month of
June isnt lacking just because of a little
sweat. And, theyre cooling things off with
not one, but two musical journeys into
the past, starting on Jun. 14 with classic
anthems from the golden age of hip hop.
Then, on Jun. 21, the oldies but goodies are
on centre stage, with the best of funk and
soul throughout the night and plenty of
deals on summer cocktails.
Madake is located at 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
UNLIKELY PAIRINGS
Pockemon Crew was born from an unlikely
pairing of influences hip hop dance and
silent film. Drawing on the physicality
and expressiveness of both performance
forms, Pockemon Crew balances their
choreography between the sometimes
frenzied, sometimes gentle energy of hiphop but within a nostalgic setting of 1930s
silver screens. Now, they come to the Hanoi

stage at the Youth Theatre on Jun. 14 from
8pm, courtesy of LEspace.
Pockemon Crew comes to the Youth Theatre,
11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung, on Jun. 14
from 8pm. Tickets are available at LEspace at
24 Trang Tien for VND120,000, with discounts
available for LEspace members
MADAKE IN MOTION
Rounding out the month at Madake is MoTioN
on Jun. 28 with artist and scenographer Bad
GraFX. Already a performance art veteran
whos graced the Tay Ho watering holes stage,
this time around hell bring his same stage
antics to life with direct interaction between

movement and music. DJs Pandrava, Maggie
and Fergal will be spinning UK and Berlin
techno just for the occasion.
Madake is located at 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
ART SPEAKS
Manzi Art Space wants to get you talking,
and has all the right ways to do it this
month. Throughout June, some of Hanois
most influential thinkers, artists and
creatives take the Manzi stage in the art
spaces series of continuing art talks.
On Jun. 10, Queer Forever! and the Manzi
team up to bring two speakers, film critic
Nguyen Tan Hoang and artist Dredge
ByungChu Kang, to talk about both the
romantic comedy De Mai Tinh (Fool for
Love) and Vietnams growing obsession
with K-pop dance.
On Jun. 20, The Book Talks return with a talk
on fantasy literature, and is co-organized by
Manzi and Nha Nam Publishing House.
Finally, on Jun. 26, the Vietnameselanguage talk show with Giang Dang takes
on controversial current issues in Right or
Wrong? The multi-dimensional talk show
and entertainment hour challenges deeply
held values, opinions and belief with a
little bit of fun thrown in. Pre-registration
is recommended by emailing manzihanoi@
gmail.com.
Manzi Art Space is located at 14 Phan Huy
Ich, Ba Dinh
PUPPET SHOWS FOR GROWN UPS

Puppets arent just for Sesame Street any more,
and The Remouleurs Company is here to
prove it. On Jun. 28, the previously Bangkokbased performance troupe plays with light,
puppetry and imagination on the LEspace
stage in a new collaboration with a traditional
Thai puppet team from Chiang Mai. Nest,
Cage, Nowhere to Rest is an imaginative story of
a bird that is sent on a journey after his nest is
destroyed. Accompanied by a small orchestra,

the show features not only shadow play and
puppets, but also magic lanterns, lights and
other effects.
Nest, Cage, Nowhere to Rest comes to LEspace
available now for VND120,000 at 24 Trang Tien,
Hoan Kiem, with discounts available for LEspace
members
hanoi
Just In
PREMIER VILLAGE DANANG

Managed by Accor, Premier Village
Danang Resort has opened its doors on
the pristine and secluded My Khe Beach
in Danang. Overlooking the ocean, the
upscale resort features 111 contemporary
villas and offers a cosy ambience, perfect
for couples or families looking for an
exclusive retreat to relax and unwind.
The resort is comprised of ultra-modern,
one-bedroom to four-bedrooms villas,
designed in earth tone colours. Each villa
is created with comfort and sophistication
in mind, offering large bedrooms, a
private swimming pool, views of either
the secluded lush garden or the scenic

ocean, and a fully kitted out kitchen with
microwave and oven. The rooms are also
equipped with flat-screen TVs, upscale
room amenities, coffee/tea facilities and
free Wi-Fi internet access.
Four restaurants and bars are available
for guests who would prefer not to dine in
the comfort of their villas, and the property
also boasts a gym, a 30-metre swimming
pool and a private beach.
For more information about Premier Village
Danang Resort, go to accorhotels.com/9530 or
facebook.com/PremierVillageDanangResort
HAM HANH
MOJITO BAR & LOUNGE

Located just off Phung Hung, Mojito
Bar is the work of well-known former
Angelina bartender, Pham Tien Tiep.
With Asian-style floor cushion seating,
bare brick walls, wooden paneling,
a long bar area and an indoor jungle
growing out of the walls, the dcor
is in line with a growing quorum of
new venues opening in the capital
contemporary, eye-catching and unique.
And of course the cocktails here are also
top-notch. Tiep was Vietnams champion
bartender a couple of years ago and even
competed in the world finals in Brazil.
Mojito Bar is at 19 Nguyen Quang Bich,
Hoan Kiem or on Facebook at facebook.com/
mojito.bar.lounge
BETTERWORLD RELOCATES
Formerly on Ly Quoc Su (and not to be
confused with Betterday), the handicrafts
and jewellery-from-around-the-world
store Betterworld has relocated to Xuan
Dieu. Most items on sale are either fair
trade or bought directly from the artisans
that made them, and include anything
from a Mongolian camel wool scarf
through to a Madagascan zebu horn
necklace and bracelets from Cambodia
made from recycled ordnance. The shop
also carries natural soap from Vietnam,
greetings cards, a selection of used books
and a large collection of DVDs. Five
percent of all profits go to MAG to aid
UXO removal in Vietnam.
Better World is at 8 Xuan Dieu,Tay Ho
and is open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 7pm.
Photos by Teresa Welleans
Photos by David Harris
Photo by David Harris
Translate onion cellar into Vietnamese and

you get the words ham hanh, the name of this
arts, film and music collectives newly opened
caf. Launched in early May, after over two
years of putting on uncompromising events
in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, the people
behind this collective can finally answer the
questions: What is The Onion Cellar? Where
do I go to find you?
The Onion Cellar can finally be found in a
dimension of time and space at 170 Doi Can,
Dong Da, with a number of different caf
settings allowing guests to do anything from
socialise over a Tom Waits-inspired cocktail to
taking a nap drifting in and out to the sounds
of field recordings, or chilling in the pleasant
fountained garden at the height of summer.
WORKROOM FOUR REOPENS

If youve been living under a rock then you probably wont know
that Workroom Four, the arts collective, has reopened on Au Co in
the West Lake area.
Founded nearly a year ago at the recently defunct Zone 9, as
well as renting out studio space, Workroom Four runs arts and
craft classes, hosts events and provides a new gallery space to
showcase exhibitions. Their new location overlooks the city from
the vantage point of a 24th-floor space in the Packexim Building.
For more information go to workroomfour.com or head to Packexim
Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay
Ho, Hanoi. To see a feature on Workroom Four, turn to page 106
Once reserved exclusively for royalty,

tranquil Westlake now boasts
Hanois Gold-Standard serviced residences.
Minutes from the city with unobstructed
lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers
you the award-winning service even
ancient kings would envy.
THE FRASER COLLECTION
+84 BAR
From the people behind Barbetta comes the new bar, +84.
Located in the same colonial-era building that once housed The
Bui Gallery, as with its Barbetta sister venues, +84 is all about
bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor
related to a past, possibly more glamourous era in Vietnam. At
this new, visually endearing space, though, theres also a new
focus film, and in particular The Godfather. Theres also an
obsession with Old and New World wines, a departure from the
more beer and cocktail obsession associated with Barbetta.
+84 Bar is at 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem or online at facebook.com/
bar84hanoi
BAHRAIN BANGALORE BANGKOK BEIJING BUDAPEST

CHENGDU DOHA DUBAI EDINBURGH GLASGOW
GUANGZHOU GURGAON HANOI HO CHI MINH CITY
HONG KONG ISTANBUL JAKARTA KUALA LUMPUR
LONDON MANILA MELBOURNE NANJING NEW DELHI
OSAKA PARIS PERTH SEOUL SHANGHAI
SHENZHEN SINGAPORE SUZHOU SYDNEY TIANJIN
WUHAN WUXI CHENNAI (2014) AL KHOBAR (2015)
FRANKFURT (2015) RIYADH (2014)
overscene hANOI
vietnam fashion
week
Photos by Xavier Depouilly

TV station VTV3 hosted a smorgasbord
of Vietnamese fashion last month, with
a range of designers sending their
clothing onto the catwalk. These images
are of the new line at LAtelier
asean pride
Photos by Teresa Wealleans

CAMA has a history of breaking
boundaries and this is one that was
certainly broken with 4,000 or so people
flocking to the American Club in search
of great music from Southeast Asia and a
theme promoting diversity.
Montes Wine Dinner
Photos provided by Bluebird

Montes, that darling of Chilean wines,
got itself its own wine dinner last
month at Bluebird. Even the Chilean
Ambassador was in attendance to toast
a winery that a decade ago quite literally
changed wine-drinking habits in the
capital.
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordhanoi.com and we'll take a look.
M Club
Photos by Mott Visuals

Danang saw the launch of one of the
most exclusive nightclubs in the country
last month, at the already well-endowed
InterContinental on Son Tra Peninsula.
Celebrities aplenty turned up for a
celebration of exclusivity and some of the
kitchest yet most-eyecatching monkey motif
design in the country.
In the Garden

Live music is coming on in force in the
Tay Ho area, with 88 Lounge recently
launching regular performances with
the likes of local songstress, Huong Tra
hanoi
june 2014
AMCHAM INDEPENDENCE DAY

PICNIC
rush up on your Star

Spangled Banner and
dig out your red, white
and blue threads. Its
Americas early birthday party
POCKEMON CREW
ip-hop and silent

film arent usually
two things you find
in the same sentence,
much less on the same stage.
Pockemon Crew is here to
change that
JUN. 14 LESPACE
JUN. 8 AMERICAN CLUB
01 sunday
09 Monday
10 Tuesday
VIET KIEU INTIMACY & K-POP COVERS. with Nguyen Tan Hoang and
Dredge Byung Chu Kang @ Manzi, 6pm
11 Wednesday
MAGNIFIQUE INTERNATIONAL CHILDRENS DAY. @ Sofitel Plaza, 6.30pm
12 Thursday
02 monday
OPERA PERFORMANCE OF CARMEN. @ Hanoi Opera House, 8pm. Runs
for two nights
03 tuesday
VOYAGE A MINI SHOW BY JAPANESE ARTIST, MIYA. @ Manzi, 10am.
Runs until May 5
04 wednesday
HANOI SLAM. @ Puku Caf and Sports bar, 7.30pm
05 thursday
13 Friday
OPENING GAME OF THE WORLD CUP : BRAZIL VS. CROATIA. 3am
SCREENING OF LABATEILLE DE SOLFERINO. @ LEspace, 8pm
14 Saturday
WORLD CUP: SPAIN VS. NETHERLANDS. 2am
HIP-HOP PERFORMANCE WITH THE POCKEMON CREW. @ Youth Theatre
GET YOUR 90S OUTFIT! @ Madake, 9.30pm until late
15
15 Sunday
Sunday
THEATRE PERFORMANCE MADEMOISELLE BONJOUR. @ LEspace, 8pm
06 friday
THE SCREENING OF MOBILE HOME. @ LEspace, 8pm
07 saturday
TCHAIKOVSKY CONCERT. @ The Hanoi Opera House, 8pm
CLASSICAL MUSIC. @ LEspace, 8pm
08 sunday
THE 20TH ANNUAL U.S. INDEPENDENCE DAY PICNIC IN HANOI. @ The
American Club, 4pm
WORLD CUP: ENGLAND VS. ITALY. 5am

FATHERS DAY @ Marriott & Melia Hotels
To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhanoi.com

by no later than Jun. 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo
BOOK TALK MOTION
anzi Art Space is out

to prove that talking
about books isnt
just for school kids.
To keep things interesting,
this months topic: fantasy
rtist and scenographer

Bad GraFX is back
with another round
of techno and stage
antics, all in the name of
performance art
JUN. 20 MANZI ART SPACE
16 Monday
JUN. 28 MADAKE
23 Monday
WORLD CUP: USA VS. PORTUGAL. 5am
24 Tuesday
25 Wednesday
26 Thursday
WORLD CUP: GERMANY VS. PORTUGAL. 11pm
17 Tuesday
18 Wednesday
WORLD CUP : SPAIN VS. CHILE. 11pm
19 Thursday
20 Friday
THE BOOK TALKS. @ Manzi, 7.30pm
21
21Saturday
saturday
WORLD CUP: SWITZERLAND VS. FRANCE. 2am

NEW MAGIC. @ Youth Theatre, 8pm
OLDIES, FUNK & SOUL MUSIC NIGHT. @ Madake, 9pm until late
BALLET: NOTTE. @ LEspace, 8pm
22 Sunday
POP-ROCK SINGER MLISSA LAVEAUX. @ LEspace, 8pm
27 Friday
28 saturday
saturday
28
PUPPET THEATRE WITH THE RMOULEURS CO. @ LEspace, 8pm

MOTION. @ Madake, 10pm until late
29 sunday
30 monday
Insider
ROAD RUNNER // OFF THE MAIN DRAG // LIFES A BOAT // THE WORLD CUP SPECIAL // A DECADE ON
THE SCENE // THE NEW WORKROOM FOUR // NHA XA // H2H: MEASURING THE GAINS // MYSTERY
DINER HANOI // STREET SNACKER HANOI // STREET SNACKER PHAN RANG // WAITING FOR THEIR SHIP
// CLIMBING BLACK VIRGIN MOUNTAIN // WHEN IN SRI LANKA...
PROVIDED BY ERIC MERLIN / EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES
Without whom...
The majority of the old black and white photos in this issue
were provided by Eric Merlin. Used to illustrate the recently
published book, The Jewels of Halong Bay, the collection was
started when Eric discovered some old postcards of the paddle
steamer, The Emeraude, in the St. Ouen flea market in Paris.
Sailing tourists around Halong Bay in the early 20th century,
The Emeraude was one of an initial fleet of four boats owned
and operated by the Roque family. The discovery of these
postcards inspired Eric to build a modern-day version of The
Emeraude, which today operates cruises on Halong Bay. For
more information go to emeraude-cruises.com
LEISURE
FITNESS
Road Runner
Embarking on a mission to find out what the future has
in store for urban running in Vietnam, Karen Hewell
laces up her neon Nike trainers and talks with
ultra-marathoner Huy Mai during his morning run.
Photo by Kyle Phanroy
ts just before six in the morning, but

in the balmy heat, beads of sweat are
already collecting on my forehead. My
muscles still feel cold and achy against
the warming temperature, but as I round
the corner of the Saigon Pearl parking
garage exit, Huy is bouncing on the balls
of his Sketchers shoe soles, smiling
brightly and seemingly unaffected by the
early hour.
Theres a trail just behind here, he
motions towards the bridge behind the
building. The already chaotic morning traffic
disappears over its dauntingly steep incline,
towards the Saigon skyline in the distance.
Since youre a trail runner, I thought you
might enjoy it, he smiles again before
turning on his heel and bounding forwards
across the parking lot.
A few days earlier, we had coordinated
via phone our running interview, my
audacious concept designed to pick his ultramarathoner brain about urban running while
doing just that running. During one of
our previous conversations, Id mistakenly
referred to myself as a trail runner. In
reality, my running shoes hadnt touched
anything apart from a treadmill and the odd
bit of gravel for over a year. Yet, enchanted
by the prospect, hed enthusiastically
suggested we follow a favourite route of his
in District 2, which wound through a still
undeveloped area past Thu Thiem bridge.
Now, as the sun begins to rise and I
break into a jog approaching the bridge, Im
beginning to regret my optimism.
Urban Aches and Pains

You know, even though Saigon is
technically lower [in elevation] and has
more oxygen in the air than my hometown,
I still feel like its much harder to breathe
[when running] here, Huy says as we cross
an intersection heading towards busy Tran
Van Khe. Were only ten minutes into our
run, but Im already gasping for air between
bursts of laboured speech. Hes clearly
trying to make me feel a bit better about my
fitness level, but he has a point.

On our left, morning commuters buzz
past on motorbikes, leaving clouds of visible
pollution in their wake. We are running
straight into them, sucking down the
carcinogens while our lungs fight to find the
oxygen they need amid the exhaust fumes.
It terms of running conditions, its abysmal
at best.
The other day, I was running in my
hometown [Bao Loc] in the mountains, at
about 13 kilometers per hour. And really, I
can never run that fast, he pants. This,
he nods toward our feet, this is my average
speed. About 10 kilometers an hour. But
that day [in Bao Loc] I ran at that speed for
an hour straight, with no problems. Thats
something I could never do in the city.
For Huy, urban running is a new
venture, and despite his ability to knock
out 30-kilometer city runs a day, he insists
that its been a difficult transition from trail
to road. He began running three years ago
while living in Australia, but after returning
home to Vietnam and moving to Saigon,
he admits that his running shoes didnt get
much of a workout for months.
It was only when he was finally in a
financial position to make regular journeys
back to his mountainous hometown that he
found his footing again.
Now, he bounces between the two cities,
swapping soil for pavement every few days.
And although hes had enough experience
running the citys streets to consider himself
well acquainted with urban running in
Saigon, for Huy, pounding the pavement
here is a distant second to braving the great
outdoors.
I think Im lucky that I have the choice to
run in the city or in the mountains, he says,
slowing his pace to meet mine. Most people
dont have that choice. They still have to be
here because they work here [exclusively],
and they still run. I really respect those
people, because they stick it out and do
whatever they can [to keep active].
As Huy drops to a quick stroll to match
my continuously slowing jog, I find it

hard to believe that a guy who considers a
15-kilometer sprint a mere warm-up would
respect an urban runner like myself, who can
hardly manage five. Yet, our conversation
is making one thing clear: Huy has bigger
motivations than competition.
Hazards of the Pavement

At half an hour in, were finally crossing
into a secluded trail off of Mai Chi Tho,
exchanging motorbike exhaust for a
strangely refreshing cloud of dust under
our feet. In the distance is Bitexco Tower,
separated from us by Saigon River and a
small herd of goats. For me, its the first time
Ive seen a borderline-rural running route
since I came to Saigon.
Running in the city is [an entirely
different experience], Huy says when I
mention the eerie calm. I prefer these little
routes. [In the city], the traffic lights, the
motorcycles the road is always packed.
I mean, I do enjoy running on the [asphalt
road] more than I do on the pavement, but
in the city, theres too much [traffic]. Its just
not safe.
And for Huy, the hazards are all too real.
Just over a year ago, he lost his brother and
running partner in a fatal traffic accident.
Since then, hes embarked on a mission to
raise awareness of road safety by continuing
with the pursuit that he and his brother
shared.
Coming off of his previous 2,000km run
from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, Huy is
preparing to take on a 5,000km charity run
through Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Its
all to get motorists throughout Southeast
Asia to take notice of the dangers that urban
runners and cyclists face on a daily basis.
Its [about] awareness, he says.
Awareness of cyclers and runners on the
road. People need to know and, more than
anything, respect that there are others on the
road, and that they need to be cautious [to
make the city a safer place for everyone].
Common Ground
The importance of the move towards safer
roads is obvious in the final stretch of our
run. At an hour in, we are back on the road
to Saigon Pearl. I watch Huy come within
inches of a motorbikes side view mirrors,
the driver paying little attention. The
impatience of commuters is something many
urban runners like Huy come to expect in
Saigon, not to mention the unavoidable close
calls with motorists. It is the consequence
of the unbridled development of Vietnams

cities. The effect on the lack of pedestrian
infrastructure is felt acutely by urban
runners.
At an hour and twenty minutes, we finally
reach the bridge the finish line for our
run. As my feet drag to a long overdue halt,
Huy slows to a walk, breathing easily and
still with a little spring in his step.
Clearly, Huy and I have little in common
in terms of physicality. But Im beginning to

realise that we have one important thing in
common: we both see a day when running
in Saigon will no longer be a struggle against
the environment.
So, I pant. What do you think we
have in common? I ask him, curious if hes
come to the same conclusion. He thinks for
a moment, and then smiles. Well, runners
run. Thats universal.
LEISURE
RACING
Off the Main Drag
The capitals newest sport? Motorbike racing on sand.

Words by Elisabeth Rosen. Photos by David Harris
ith the toss of a helmet into

the air, two bikes tear down
the empty stretch of sand,
disappearing behind clouds of
dust. Its a Saturday afternoon and the racers
are competing for winners spoils on a DIY
racing circuit set up close to the Red River.
Only a few bumpy dirt roads away
from the dyke road Au Co this area
in Tay Ho often known as The Beach
has a quiet countryside vibe, with broad
swaths of deserted sand flanked by paddy

fields, banana plantations and palm trees.
Already a gathering point for groups of local
wrestlers, dog walkers and friends who just
want to hang out over a beer or five, The
Beach is now drawing in a growing crowd of
motorbike enthusiasts who see their vehicles
as far more than a way to get to work.
We really want to encourage people to
get out on their bikes and have more fun
instead of just enduring the daily commute,
says Toby Stapleton, the owner of nearby

KUB Cafe, which organised the drag race.
For the uninitiated, a drag race is simply
a short-distance race that tests how quickly
a driver can accelerate. Fortunately, because
the drivers here are mostly using scooters
with relatively low engine capacity, there
isnt much danger of crashing even the
term race is mildly tongue-in-cheek. The
first meet two months ago was completely
impromptu, attended by just a handful
of enthusiasts. It was just like, theres

a beach, we got bikes, lets go for a drag
race, says Osh Williamson, co-organiser
and DJ.
By the third race, there were dozens of
attendees, prompted by a Facebook event
and word of mouth. But while there are
plans to have a race every month, the
organisers hope to hang onto the casual
vibe.
The idea isnt to become big. Its an
underground thing. Add a BBQ, some tunes.
Make it a family event, Williamson says.
We want this to be a place where people
can come and bring their kids.
Bring on the Bogan

There are few children in sight today,
although the vibe is indeed more hangout

than bike race. As the sun sets in a pink
flush over the fields and trees, expats and
Vietnamese linger around the BBQ, where
local entrepreneur Aristotle Cabiles is
supervising the grilling of his homemade
sausages. Cabiles quit teaching to make
sausages in flavours like garlic and applecinnamon; he often sees entire batches
disappear in 30 minutes.
Tonight is no exception, as hungry racers
surround the grill. Asked why they came
today, theyre unequivocally enthusiastic.
Im from Australia and theres this bogan
element I love, said Tom Rossiter, the
principal of a local school.
Bogan, what does that mean?
Almost like redneck. It means a lot for
Australians.
Though Rossiter has ridden motorbikes
all his life and is a veteran of the Hanoi
scene, hes impressed with the racing
communitys rapid evolution.
Its the birth of a sand race club in
Hanoi, he says.
And its only the beginning. Stapleton
has planned several future KUB events,
including a steeplechase, a Hanoian take
on a 250-year-old racing tradition from his
family hometown in Ireland.
Instead of horses were doing it with
motorbikes! he says.
Could be a bumpy road.
For more information on future races, go to
facebook.com/kubcafe or check in at KUB Caf
itself 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi
Cover Story
Sail away with me honey
I put my heart in your hands
Sail away with me honey now, now, now
Sail away with me
What will be will be
I wanna hold you now
Sail Away by David Gray
Provided by Eric Merlin / Emeraude Classic Cruises
We are sailing, we are sailing

Home again cross the sea
We are sailing stormy waters
To be near you, to be free
We Are Sailing by Rod Stewart
Lifes a Boat
Provided by Julie Vola
Once Upon a Time

in Vietnam
The Vietnamese
peoples relationship to
water and the trade they
plied through it were
critical to the
development of
Hanois Old Quarter.
But today it lacks the
same significance.
Words by Hoa Le
Provided by Julie Vola
ts not a coincidence that the word

country in Vietnamese dat nuoc is
composed of two significant words:
dat (earth or soil) and nuoc (water). As
architect Nguyen Huy Anh, a member
of Hanois architect association, puts it:
This reflects the traditional thinking of
Vietnamese people. Water has a special
meaning: together with earth, its the
element that makes up the nature of how
people live.
When Hanoi then Thang Long was
first established by King Ly Thai To in
1010, it was with this harmony of earth and
water in mind. He felt the location could
become prosperous due to its ideal terrain
of both rivers and mountains, as well as a
dense system of rivers, canals, ponds and
lakes. In the 16th century, Hanoi was said
to have about 400 lakes at the time the
Old Quarter was an interlacing system
of dozens of lakes and numerous ponds.
However, the present day name, Hanoi, only
came in the late 19th century. Meaning the
city in between rivers, its a moniker that

demonstrates the special meaning water has
to its existence.
And as with its younger sister city Saigon
to the south, it was water and boat trade
that enabled the development of what today
is the capital of Vietnam.
From Establishment to Boomtown

During the decades following the
establishment of Thang Long, a citadel was
built for the royal family and their court.
The commoners residential area the
precursor to the Old Quarter of today
sprung up beyond the walls to serve the
royal family. Lying along the Red River
on the eastern end of the citadel, despite
its early establishment, it only began to
flourish in the 17th and 18th centuries.
With the Red River remaining the main
waterway of the city, other rivers were used
for transportation. An economy gradually
developed based on maritime trade and
boat transportation sailing to and from the
capital and beyond.

However, it was only during the Le
Dynasty period of the 16th century that
the Old Quarter really began to flourish.
Thanks to the establishment of international
shipping routes, there was an exponential
rise in overseas trade. Thang Long found
itself conveniently located on a trade route
between China and the East Sea. With new
riverports and seaports attracting trade
elsewhere in Vietnam, Thang Long became
used as a collection and gathering point as
well as a central intermediary stop. With
trade came wealth and importance, and
Hanoi quickly became both the political and
economic centre of Vietnam as well as one of
the largest cities in Southeast Asia.
This was boosted by trans-ocean
trade, which attracted merchants from
Europe. The Dutch East India Company
established a large warehouse on the
banks of the Red River in 1645 while the
British East India Company established
their own storage facility in 1683. These
With new riverports

and seaports
attracting trade
elsewhere in Vietnam,
Thang Long became
used as a collection
and gathering
point as well as a
central intermediary
stop. With trade
came wealth and
importance
The Story of
Tran Hung Dao
Regarded as one of the most
accomplished tacticians in military
history, General Tran Hung Dao
managed to score three victories over the
Mongols under Kublai Khan. However,
the most impressive was in 1288 when
together with other Vietnamese forces
he managed to overcome a combined
Mongol-Chinese army of 500,000 men.
Having stuttered after initially capturing
Van Don Island and destroying
Vietnamese forces on the border, the
Mongol leader Prince Toghan sent his
fleet under naval commander Omar
down the Bach Dang River towards
Hanoi (then Thang Long).
Anticipating the use of this route, Tran
Hung Dao embedded steel-tipped
spikes in the river, which were only visible
at low tide. He then deployed smaller
and more maneuverable vessels into
agitating and luring the Mongol vessels
towards the riverbank. As the tide fell,
so the larger Mongol boats were forced
into the middle of the river where they
got caught on the embedded steeltipped stakes. A total of 400 vessels
were destroyed while the Viet forces
managed to capture the remaining naval
crew along the river. Admiral Omar was
captured and executed and with his
naval fleet destroyed, Prince Toghan
retreated north of the border.
warehouses stimulated the flow of goods

from surrounding areas into the capital.
The British merchant, William Dampier,
described the facilities back in 1668: The
house is built parallel to the river, both ends
have smaller rooms used for other purposes
kitchen and storage. The line up from the
big house to the riverbank forms a long yard
perpendicular to the river.
Thanks to increased tax revenues, in the
17th and early 18th centuries the Trinh Lords
began restructuring the capital. Increasing
the citys size, they also built large houses to
match their social status. This restructuring
brought in artisans from the surrounding
regions bricklayers, stonemasons, carvers,
painters, engravers and embroiderers were
all mobilised to build and decorate the new
buildings. Initially dependent on the citadel
for its existence, the Old Quarter now
became an independent, residential and
commercial area with its own economy.
Boats with cargos of rice and salt would
sail up from the Red River Delta, pass
through Thang Long and unload their
goods onto piers in the Old Quarter before
continuing upstream into the highlands.
Other boats brought in locally produced
goods such as metal (mainly copper), cattle,
forest products, logs and bamboo, also
stopping by the Old Quarter before running
downstream. The goods from those boats
were brought into the capital and then
distributed to the smaller, satellite towns in
the surrounding Delta.
All in a Name
During this era the Red River ran right

along the residential area, which is now
Tran Nhat Duat Street piers and harbours
in the Old Quarter became busy trading
points. After the arrival of the French, these
areas were named after the goods that
were sold there. Hang Than (or Coal Street)
was where boats from the south and Xu
Doai (west of Hanoi) often stopped to load
limestone to supply lime kilns along the

dykes. Hang Be (or Raft Street) was where
the bamboo rafts were loaded and sold.
This trading also formed a busy market
on this street, which was called the Raft
Market or Cho Hang Be.
About where Chuong Duong Bridge is
now was a major stopping point for boats
of all kinds. There were three piers here
Ky Buoi, Tau Hieu and Sova piers
where Vietnamese, Chinese and western
boats moored respectively. A little further
south of this area, where now sits the giant
Techcombank building, was once where
To Lich River met the Red River. At this
confluence was the main trading point for
rice the street here was later called Rice
Market Street (Pho Cho Gao). Products
from the sea and other goods shipped down
the Red River such as fish, fish sauce, salt,
bamboo, vases and wicker mats were also
traded in the capital. Streets were formed
and named accordingly: Fish Street (Hang
Ca), Sauce Street (Hang Mam), Salt Street
(Hang Muoi), Mat Street (Hang Chieu),
Bamboo Street (Hang Tre) and Vase Street
(Hang Chinh).
During the Nguyen dynasty of the 19th
century, a wave of Chinese traders migrated
to the city, forming a new class of wealthy
merchants. They lived in streets like Hang
Buom or Ma May.
In his book, The Economic History of Hanoi
in the 17th, 18th and 19th Centuries, historian
Nguyen Thua Hy describes the wealth of
these streets:
These streets all had impressive gates inside,
paved with two or three layers of tiles; the roads
were carefully preserved, with beautiful brick
houses along each side. The roadbed was curved
slightly like a tortoises back and it was cobbled
with broad stones.
Besides its commercial success, the
Old Quarter became a hub for food and
entertainment. Along Hang Buom Street
there were many Chinese cao lau restaurants,
Images on this page povided by Eric Merlin / Emeraude Classic Cruises
tea shops and liquor houses. Many

places on Hang Giay were hat a dao or
ca tru theatres with beautiful women
they became a regular stop for wealthy
merchants.
Despite the bustling development of
the area, road building and maintenance
were neglected. Except on the wealthy
streets occupied by Chinese merchants,
the appearance of the streets remained
unchanged. In 1888 when Hanoi formally
became a French concession, new buildings
and road systems were constructed.
Filling Up Periods
This ushered in the first major period of

filling in lakes and rivers. In 1889, To Lich
River was filled in to build the streets of
Nguyen Sieu and Ngo Gach. A huge lake
that once lay behind Hang Dao was also
filled in to build roads. The Opera House
was constructed on reclaimed land where
it sits today was once a lake.
Around the same time, Long Bien Bridge
was built and with the Red River starting
to change its flow the current began
moving down the Gia Lam side of the river
a dyke road was constructed along Tran
Nhat Duat in the space that had once been
occupied by piers.
However, according to architect Nguyen
Huy Anh, the period that marks the largest
wave of land reclamation was in the years
following Doi Moi in 1986. By 2000, when
land prices began to soar in the Old Quarter,
there were no lakes or ponds remaining.
Today the only body of water in the area is
Hoan Kiem Lake.
If once rivers and lakes held a crucial
cultural and economical value to the citizens
of Hanoi, today they are viewed only as a
cultural asset.
Its the result of development and the
economic boom, says Anh. However, the
meaning of water still remains sacred to
Vietnam.
Waterworld
The former twin cities of Saigon and Cholon
were originally built for boats. The traces of their waterways
can still be felt in the metropolis of today. Words by Nick Ross
Thien Hau
In early 2013 the temple to the guardian
of the sea, Thien Hau in Thu Thiem, was
finally razed to the ground. Located next
to Saigons CBD but on the opposite side
of the river, the temple was more than a
legend. Constructed to watch over boats
entering and leaving Central Saigon, the
temple was a physical manifestation of
a belief that has stretched from its origins
in China all the way through East and
Southeast Asia.
The story of Thien Hau is the story of
Lin Moniang. Born in the 10th century on
Meizhou Island in Fujian, an excellent
swimmer, she would stand of the shore
to guide boats home by wearing red
garments, even in the harshest weather.
One day, a typhoon hit the island
while Lins brothers and father were out
fishing at sea. In the midst of this storm,
she fell into a sleep-like trance and
had a vision she saw her father and
brother were drowning. But Moniangs
mother discovered her sleeping and tried
to wake her. This diverted her attention
and caused her to drop her brother who
drowned as a result. The father returned
alive and told the other villagers that a
miracle had happened.
Eventually known as Mazu Thien
Hau in Vietnamese it is believed that
Moniangs spirit roams the seas and
watches over fishermen.
ust a decade ago Thi Nghe Canal,

the waterway running from the
Saigon River through to Tan Binh,
was a mess. Rubbish lined its
banks and blocked its sewers, rainy season
flooding was a constant threat and the
stench that drifted off the waterway seemed
to sit almost permanently over the houses
and shanties that lined its banks.
Fast forward to 2013 thanks to the
World Bank-sponsored Ho Chi Minh City
Environmental Sanitation Project, the Nhieu
Loc-Thi Nghe Basin has been transformed.
51km of combined primary and secondary
sewers, and 375km of tertiary sewers
have been replaced. A 9km wastewater
interceptor has been installed, centralising
wastewater collection. The canal has
been dredged, the 18km of embankments
reinforced. The list goes on.
In total the work has benefited the
lives of 1.2 million people. Thanks to the
significant improvement of the water
quality, even the fish and the fishermen
have returned.
Little did the authorities realise in the
18th and 19th centuries that their plans to
dig canals and expand boat trade would
have such an effect on the city of the 21st
century. Although the Thi Nghe Canal
is one of only five natural waterways
remaining in the Saigon-Cholon area, much
work is still to be done.
The Rise of Cholon
Left over from the 18th and 19th century

development of the then-separate cities
Saigon and Cholon, the likes of Thi Nghe,
Ben Nghe, Tau Hu, Lo Gom and Ruot
Ngua Canals were once the lifeblood of
the developing metropolis. Acting as a
thoroughfare for boats transporting goods
from the Mekong, they helped create a
trade route connecting the far south of
Vietnam with the East Sea and the rest of
Southeast Asia.
Settled en masse in 1782 after the Tay Son

forces pushed Chinese immigrants out of
Bien Hoa, Cholon now the modern day
area covered by Districts 5 and 6 quickly
became a trade hub. Boat trade ran from
China, Japan and Faifo (Hoi An) in the north
to Singapore and Malacca in the Malaysian
Peninsula. Aided by the economic ambitions
of the Nguyen Dynasty, who widened and
dug canals in the 1770s to promote trade,
a market was established on the site now
occupied by Cho Ray Hospital.
Named Tai Ngon meaning embankment
in Chinese by the 19th century the
market appeared on several maps not as Tai
Ngon but as Sai Gon, the name the French
appropriated after 1859 to rename the former
Ben Nghe as the new capital of Annam,
Saigon.
Originally connected to Cholon Creek by
Pho Xep Canal (now Chau Van Liem Street),
the French relocated the old market to a
site closer to the Arroyo Chinoise (now Tau
Hu Canal), the waterway running between
Cholon and Saigon. In the 1920s, thanks
to a scheme to replace Cholon Creek and
its connecting waterways with roads, the
Chinese businessman Quach Dam proposed
the building of a new market on the area
occupied by nearby Binh Tay Market.
With the canals filled, merchants could no
longer access the central market by boat. Binh
Tay, however, was thriving. Thanks to the
completion of Bai Say Canal in 1891 which
ran past the market both the waterway
and its wharf were constantly busy with
merchant shipping. Much of the surrounding
land also belonged to Quach Dam.
Permission was granted, Quach Dam
donated his land to the city, and in February
1926, construction began. Completed in
September 1928, Quach Dam never saw the
finished market he died in May 1927 at the
age of 65. In 1930 a bronze statue was erected
in Binh Tay Market to commemorate this
philanthropist and businessman, dubbed by
French media as the king of commerce. It

stands there to this day, as do many of the
canals.
The Arrival of the French
The rebuilding of Saigon by the French

on the site formerly known as Ben Nghe
now the centre of District 1 was also
planned with boats and trade in mind.
Founded in 1698 by Nguyen Huu Canh
with the establishment of a fort in Gia Dinh,
by the time the French moved in Saigon was
already an important commercial centre.
Although the main trading commodity
was rice, there was also plenty of activity
in shipbuilding, sugar production, bronze
making and handicrafts.
When Admiral Charner arrived in
Saigon by boat in 1861 with a force of
about 3,500 men, there was also a large
shipyard, as well as many other workshops
and foundries stretching along the Saigon
River. Warehouses and grain stores
belonging to Chinese traders lined the
banks of Hau Tu Canal. Far from being a
wild and uninhabited land, Saigon and its
surroundings had developed a thriving
civilisation.
Despite a spirited defense of the areas
around Saigon by the Vietnamese, the
superior weapons of the attackers ensured
eventual victory. In June 1862, the Treaty of

Saigon was signed by Emperor Tu Duc.
The plan of Saigon drawn up by Admiral
Charner changed the city from the Asian
style of villages and a citadel to a western
city. Yet the Vietnamese civilian population
living in Saigon fell from an estimated
100,000 inhabitants before the French attack
to only 6,000 to 7,000 afterwards.
Despite redesigning the city, the French
continued to make use of the existing
canals. Five channels made up the inland
waterway transport system of the time.
However, by 1900 they had been filled
in, later becoming main roads Le Loi,
Nguyen Hue, Pasteur and Ham Nghi. The
fifth canal entered the city under the area
now occupied by Ong Lanh Bridge.
Yet, the need for boat trade between
Saigon, Cholon and the Mekong Delta
remained. In the early 1900s more canals
were built, including Canal de Doublement
(Kenh Doi) as well as a number of linking
canals now found in District 8.
By 1900, Saigon had become known as
the Pearl of the Far East. Inaugurated in
1881, tramlines ran between Saigon and
Cholon. Large public works like the Notre
Dame Cathedral had been built. The first
hotel in the colony, The Continental Hotel,
was completed in 1880, and Parisian society
with a distinct Indochine flair was in full

flow.
But the key to the success of Saigon and
its neighbor, Cholon, was the rivers, the
canals and the merchant trade by boats.
Without boats and their ability to transport
goods, the city we know today would never
have existed.
A New Challenge
Take a speedboat down Kenh Te and

then Rach Ong Lanh, two canals running
through District 7, and on the river
you see the city of the past. Stilt houses
patched together with corrugated iron
hug the embankments, fishing boats moor
themselves to the banks and rubbish floats
through the water. There is no proper
wastewater management system here the
canals act as sewers.
With the advent of motor vehicles and air
travel, boat trade in Ho Chi Minh City is on
the wane. In the process, this metropolis is
now dealing with the negative effects of a
waterway and economic system built for a
past era.
One environmental sanitation project
has been completed and more are on their
way. It will take time. But as the rivers and
canals get cleaned up, so a new notion of
water and boat travel will appear.
Little did the authorities realise in the 18th

and 19th centuries that their plans to dig canals
and expand boat trade would have such an
effect on the city of the 21st century
Speed
T
Karen Hewell takes a speedboat trip down Saigon River and

its many tributaries to discover a collection of underutilised
waterways. Photos by Mads Monsen and Nick Ross
he sun is setting along Saigon

River, and the glistening white
speedboat Im sitting on is
momentarily silent and still,
bobbing along the waves. On our left is
dense green foliage and a few lounging
fishing boats along the bank, and on the
right are some scattered villas with great
bay windows opening out to the water. Its
quiet eerily quiet and the lights of

the far off Bitexco Tower are just starting
to blink to life.
On Saigon River, youd be forgiven for
thinking you arent in Vietnams largest
metropolis or any major urban center
at all. And now that the time is nearing
six in the evening, the roads surrounding
Bitexco Tower are surely in the throes of
rush hour traffic. Yet on this particular

highway, traversed not with two wheels
but two amphibious motors, rush hour is
non-existent.
Forgotten Highways
Normally, travelling to Phu My Hung [from

District 2] would take at least half an hour,
says Carl Gay, a long-time Saigon expat who
is part-owner of the very speedboat we are

sitting on. On a boat like this? 10 minutes.
The speed and ease of travelling on a
speedboat is made obvious by the sheer
distance weve covered in the short time
weve been on the water. In no more than
half an hour, weve gone from District
2s Thao Dien area to Phu My Hung and
halfway back. On a motorbike, the journey
would have taken at least an hour, fighting
traffic the entire way. On a boat, the only
traffic is the odd fishing boat or container
ship trudging past the rivers intermediary
ports.
On a boat, you see another side of
the city. You see everything from a new
perspective, says Carl as he maneuvers the

vessel past dilapidated shanty houses on
rickety wooden stilts. Hes putting it lightly
its nearly impossible to believe that these
houses are only a stones throw from District
7s Crescent Mall.
Yet strangely, even with the promise
of commute times cut in half and access
to a side of the city few get the chance to
see, the waterways are nearly empty, and
the few yachts parked besides luxurious
mansions are silent, probably unused for
weeks. Instead, a few aging vessels carrying
the days catch or transporting goods
dominate the Saigon River. And then there
are nighttime dinner cruise boats plying the
stretch of water between Saigon Bridge, Bach

Dang Port and District 4. Unlike this plexiglass stallion, none of these vessels are built
for speed.
The Changing Tides
Although the river remains strangely

underutilised, a savvy few have recognised
its potential, and the future promise of
speedboat transportation. Started by the
nearly two-decade old Riverside Apartments
in District 2, luxury resorts like An Lam
and Villa Song are popping up along the
riverbank and building their own docks.
Private speedboats transport their guests
via the water, lending a rare disconnected
solitude to the otherwise difficult-to-reach

locations.
Tour companies, too, have recognised the
potential for boosted tourism via speedy
transportation. Saigon River Express one
of the only boat tour companies that use
smaller speedboats for their operations
have connected downtown Saigon with Cu
Chi Tunnels and the mangrove swamps of
Can Gio, skipping the lengthy bus transfer.
Dai Phuoc Golf Course has even jumped
on the bandwagon by adding their own
speedboat dock for clients. Saigon River
restaurants like Boathouse and The Deck
also offer guest transportation services
between District 2 and downtown Saigon.
But unlike the public river transport
service along Bangkoks Chao Phraya River,
the developments have stopped short of
commercial water taxi services not because
of the lack of demand, but the infrastructure.
The transition from leisure boating to
commercial transport is one steeped in
complication and confusion, and the legal
hurdles are yet to be cleared.
Having a personal boat on the river is
pretty easy, but the moment you want to
turn your boat into a business, you run into
problems, says Carl. The infrastructure
just hasnt caught up to the demand. When
the demand is there, though, maybe it will
follow.
The January fire on the Vina Express
hydrofoil between Ho Chi Minh City and
Vung Tau may also have set back any
hopes. Subsequent to the accident, all
public boat services between the two cities
were suspended. And recent media reports
suggest they are unlikely to resume any time
soon. If at all.
The Future of Speed
But perhaps the bright future of Saigon

River is closer than we think. With each new
riverside development comes more reason to
take to the water and not the road. Diamond
Island has taken advantage of the river to
transport its residents between its District 2
location and Central Saigon, as for a number
of years has Saigon Domaine. Many other
new developments are setting up services
as well. The promise of a quick, speedboat
commute into the city centre is proving a
draw for apartment developments looking to
attract residents.
But for many more focused on the
recreation, the luxury and the lifestyle
that a speedboat promises, the future isnt
just about getting around. Its about what
owning a speedboat means.
With a boat, you cant worry about the
money, or the cost of maintenance, says
Carl, whose own speedboat is still strictly
for his and the other owners recreational
use. A speedboat is a luxury its about
the lifestyle. I mean, nobody buys a Bentley
because its comfortable. They buy it for
what it means.
Passengers
in the Night
Its 1am on the middle watch, Jun. 15
1977. Seaman Karlson and myself,
helmsman Monsen, observe a weak light
through the darkness on the starboard
side of our ship. Assuming its a fishing
vessel and wanting to avoid any collision,
we change course.
The light follows and we change course
yet again. This time to port side. The light
continues in our direction. But now we are
so close that through our binoculars we
can observe people of the small vessel.
They are waving kerosene lamps and
items they have lit up with a fire.
The captain is called to the bridge
and he orders us to reduce the speed.
He instructs me to proceed to the engine
room where we have a supply hatch that
we can open. I ask the people on the boat
if they need of any food, water or medical
assistance. They reply No. They only
wish to be picked up and kept safe after
leaving Vietnam behind.
I enter their vessel to do a headcount.
Twice more and more people emerge.
Five men, four women and 10 children,
including several infants. Once they are
safely onboard, our chef cooks up food
for the whole group.
We are en route to Hong Kong having
just left Singapore. In Hong Kong we
spend an extra day in port while the
necessary papers and guarantees are
procured from the Norwegian authorities.
The boat refugees are set ashore and
taken to a refugee camp.
Mads Henrik Monsen
On the Sampan
Nick Ross spends two days edging down
the Mekong River on a Chinese-style sampan
and lives to tell the otherworldly tale
he bats swoop and then circle, lit

up by the nightlight of the boat.
Noises short, sharp, animated
insect noises drift up from the
water hyacinth. Beyond a solitary vessel
chugs past, its engine breaking the peace of
the river night. A cool breeze drifts across
the surface of the water and above the
constellations are clear The Snake, Orion,
The Southern Cross shining through the
haze of the Mekong night.
3am and our boat is moored to a nha be, a
floating house, and despite the fan-cooled
cabin, my body refuses to succumb to much
needed sleep. Ive slept on water many times
before, on cruises along the Atlantic Ocean,
on luxury boats heading up the Mekong, on
ferries between one country or island and
another. But never have I slept in such a
small vessel and at river level.
Our sampan a traditional Chinese
wooden boat with a sheltered area woven
out of rattan has only two cabins. The fancooled cabins are comfortable enough, fitted
with modern conveniences, Wi-Fi, mosquito
nets and couch-style seating. But the sense of
confinement, of being so close to the water,
makes me desperate for the air and the
world outside. For one of the few times I can
remember, I feel part of the river upon which
I float. I need to let its breezes brush past me,
its stillness suck me in, its ambience soak me
up. My boat may be affected with the luxury
afforded to tourists, but beyond that I am no
different to all those other people sleeping
on the Mekong at night.
Im on a two-day trip along the Mekong
River from Cai Be to the city of Long Xuyen
before travelling the final 60km by car to the
border town of Chau Doc. The last frontier
before Vietnam gives way to Cambodia, the
city lies at the confluence of two snakelike
strands of the Mekong. Two years before I
boated this part of the river and followed it
up to Phnom Penh. But this time my journey
is much shorter and for company I have
the three boat attendants Tri, Hoang and
Phuoc their boss and a former tour guide,

Nghia, and Pascale, a long-term French
expat who has been working in the travel
industry for years. And of course I also
have the boat, chugging through the water,
merging into the boat and river life through
which we move.
**********
Suong lets us clamber onto her nha be.
Moored in the shadow of My Thuan Bridge
it is one of 18 lying in a row, each tied to the
next. On her boat-cum-farm-cum-house she
is breeding red snapper, together with her
husband. But the nha be is not her own.
We rent it from the owner and work for
him, too, she explains. All other 17 nha be
are the same.
With a canal-like structure running
through the midst of the house bordered
by wooden planks, Suong shows us what
happens when she feeds the fish. She throws
the feed into the water and within seconds
they come to the surface, thrashing about as
they compete for each grain of food.
It takes six months for the fish to grow
into adults, she says. We feed them twice
a day. At first it doesnt cost so much. But as
they get bigger, we have to give them more
food.
Unlike other people we encounter along
the river, she doesnt seem to be struggling.
Theres no sense of complaint in her voice,
no angst or intimations of hardship. She
makes VND5 million a month, small by
city standards. But this is not the city. And
while her oldest son has already left school,
the youngest is in Grade 6. Shes making a
living. Its meagre, but the family is cared for.
**********
The sampan gets to Sa Dec and we alight,
headed for the house of Huynh Thuy Le. The
former lover of French writer Marguerite
Duras a love affair that was immortalised
Cruises
B HAYA
bhayacruises.com
Two luxury, classic junk-style vessels
plying the bays of Halong. Also have a
more upmarket, cruise boat, The Au Co.
Run a range of tours and private trips.
D U L ICH S ONG H ONG
dulichsonghong.com
One of only a couple of services running
cruises out of Hanoi up and down the
Red River. Email dulichsonghong@gmail.
com for information the website is only
in Vietnamese.
E MERAUDE C LASSIC C RUISES

emeraude-cruises.com
Overnight cruises on a replica of one of
the original early 20th century paddle
steamers that brought the first tourists to
Halong Bay.
H ERITAGE L INE
heritage-line.com
Luxury cruises on Halong Bay and
along the Mekong River from My Tho
all the way to Siem Reap. Five-star
accommodation and facilities on a boat.
P ERFUME R IVER E MOTION
perfumeriveremotion.com
Overnight cruises along the Perfume River
in Hue on a traditional sampan.
T ONKIN C RUISES
tonkincruise.com
Four junk-style boats plying the routes of
Halong Bay. Do one-day, two-day and
three-day tours in their four-star vessels.
V ICTORIA C RUISES
victoriahotels.asia
Cruises and tours run by the Victoria
group along the Mekong. Have a range
of vessels from speedboats connecting
Chau Doc with Phnom Penh through to
luxury, two-cabin sampans for two or
three nights along the river. Often run in
conjunction with hotel stays at their three
to five-star properties in Chau Doc, Can
Tho, Nui Sam and Siem Reap.
V IKING R IVER C RUISES
vikingrivercruises.com
15-day luxury river cruises and tours that
start in Hanoi and finish in Ho Chi Minh
City, with flight travel in between.
in both her novel The Lover and then the

subsequent movie of the same name this
is the highlight of visiting this Mekong Delta
town. But before we enter the building,
Nghia guides us through the market. He
shows us the produce on sale its nothing
new to either me or Pascale and then
tells us about the town. I notice the Chinese
characters on most of the shopfronts.
Is this a Chinese town? I ask. He nods.
The Chinese live in the market area while
the Vietnamese live elsewhere in town, he
explains. Huynh Thuy Le was also Chinese,
and as we are shown around his house, now
under the auspices of Dong Thap Province,
I feel like Im walking into a 100-year-old
building in Singapore, Malacca or Penang.
There are differences, of course unlike
the Straits Chinese, in Vietnam there was
no merging of cultures but the effect is
the same. Century-old decadence, exquisite
carvings, a sense of time forgotten but not
erased.
As we leave Pascale is frustrated. Weve
been forced to have a tour guide whos told
us nothing about the house itself, but has
instead focused on the story of Marguerite
Duras and not even the book version. No
mention has been made of what the carvings
symbolise, at no point does the guide explain
the odd front door or the sunken floor in the

main hallway. And at no point do we learn
about the daily life of the family that would
have lived here.
Its a lost opportunity, a lost chance to
discover another angle to the history of the
fertile basin that makes up the Delta. But it
was a welcome visit nonetheless.
**********
Down the river we stop at a brick factory. As
you get close to Cambodia, these structures
line the riverfront. Buying up mud from
whole paddy fields sometimes the soil
is no longer fertile, so its sold on the
clay-like substance is then delivered by boat
and instantly turned into brick form by
machine. A team of workers stacks the wet
brick and leaves it to dry in the sun. Once it
has dried it is cooked in one of many kilns,
the beehive-like structures you see towering
over the river. The baking process takes up
to two weeks. Then the completed bricks are
packed up and sold on to the construction
industry.
Vietnam is in a construction phase at
the moment, and in the last decade brick
factories have multiplied. With a growing
population and increasing wealth, it seems
there is no end for the demand for bricks,

the basic building blocks of life. Yet it is odd
that like so much else in Vietnam, the clay
comes from recycled paddy. Even the fuel to
heat the kiln is recycled dried rice husks.
Castoffs from the process of harvesting rice.
**********
A tug chugs by, and despite its slow speed,
a wave still crashes gently into the boats
sitting in its wake. Were at the floating
market outside Long Xuyen and Ive just
descended a boat selling potatoes. Tons of
potatoes. The owners are downhearted and
negative. Business is bad at the moment,
not just for them but for everyone at the
market. Two years ago sales were so good
that the place was packed, but now theres a
slump and the number of boats selling fruit
and vegetables on this strand of the river is
falling away.
Nghia points out the fruit and vegetables
attached to posts on each boat. Theyre
paraded high above the vessels like flags.
If a boat has something attached to the
pole, then thats what theyre selling, he
explains.
What if they dont? I ask, as a motorised
canoe zooms past filled to the brim with
coconuts.
Either theyre waiting for produce or
theyre buying.
Look, says Pascale, pointing at a boat
with her finger again. There she goes again!
Breakfast! Youve got to get a photo of her.
A woman in a motorised canoe has been
weaving in and out of all the boats. I zoom in
close with my camera lens. Com tam, I say,
Shes selling com tam!
The novelty makes we want to call her
over and buy breakfast, but weve just been
served up a spread of eggs, sausages, fruit,
yoghurt, orange juice and cereal.
Pascale thinks about it and later tells
Nghia that guests on the sampan should
have the option. They should be able to eat a
normal breakfast or they should also be able
to opt for one off the river.
**********
The sampan drifts into Long Xuyen port,
but theres no space to moor. Our driver is
waiting there, waiting to take us the last leg
of the journey to Chau Doc. Lunch awaits
us with the GM of The Victoria Hotel, before
I continue onto my resting place, another
Victoria property but this time on Nui Sam,
a mountain with sweeping views of the
countryside. All this once were able to dock.

The boat sweeps round, but the turning
space is at a minimum the small minisampan attached to its side bumps into a
rowing boat. There are calls to watch out
before the collision, but after it happens not
an eyelid is lifted or incrimination voiced.
This is normal on the river. Boats hit boats.
Wood collides with wood, metal with metal.
Unlike land transport, boats are hardy, built
for the wear and tear of the water on which
they reside, the water that transports them
from one place to the next. Only hellos are
called out from the people watching us from
their boats. I respond in turn.
Eventually were able to moor and with
sadness I say my farewells. Were leaving Tri,
Hoang and Phuoc behind with the sampan,
while Nghia is returning by road to Can Tho.
Its only been short yet its been one of
those journeys, the kind of experience that
even the most hardened of traveller craves
for. Weve been on the river at the same
level as all the other vessels plying their
waterborne course.
Next time Ill need a week.
For more information on the sampan trips
organised by Victoria Cruises, call (0733)
924658, email resa.caibe@victoriahotels.asia or go
to victoriahotels.asia
Birdwatching
by Boat
Pirates and
Cavaliers
Piracy in Southeast Asia began in the
13th century with the retreating Mongol
Yuan fleet. Due to a huge betrayal
by their Javanese allies, they found
themselves marooned in the Indonesian
Archipelago. Consisting of mainly
Cantonese and Hokkien tribesmen, the
stranded navy officers quickly set up
small gangs near river estuaries in Java
and Sumatra and, with their junk and
pugilist and marine skills, began making
a living by raiding merchant boats along
the growing maritime routes of the region.
However, the most powerful pirate
fleets of East Asia were those of the
Chinese pirates during the mid-Qing
dynasty of the early 19th century. The
effects large-scale piracy had on both
the Chinese and northern Vietnamese
economies were immense. They preyed
voraciously on junk trade, which then
flourished in Fujian, Guangdong and
the northern part of Vietnam. They also
exercised hegemony over villages on
the coast, collecting revenue by exacting
tribute and running extortion rackets.
It took a concerted effort in the midto-late 19th century by a mixture of
American, British and French troops to rid
the area of the pirates, whose fleets finally
disappeared in the early 20th century.
*This extract was originally printed
in The Jewels of Halong Bay, a book
published by The Ministry of Labour
Publishing House
Nick Ross ventures into the wetlands of Tra Su near

the border with Cambodia, and discovers the vibrancy
of nature in its most glorious form
wanted to go there by bicycle, but while

the early morning 25km journey would
have been cool and pleasant, I was told
the return would be too hot. They were
right. By the time I arrived by car at Tra Su
Nature Reserve in the far southwest of the
Mekong Delta, the heat was nearing midmorning intensity. Within 15 minutes, beads
of sweat were rolling down my face. And
that was in the shade.
Tra Su is not the kind of nature reserve
where you go cycling although tandems
are for hire. And if you walk, you miss both
the perspective and the wildlife. To get a
feel for this quite unique and little known
bird sanctuary, you need to take a boat. In
my case, two boats. These are melaleuca
wetlands, grasslands and swamp. Those
restricted to land dont fare well out here.
The first part of the journey is by
motorised canoe and takes you through
ponds of lotus. Algae, lilies, trees with roots

built for an aquatic landscape and other
river surface fauna make up the rest of the
waterways here, the pink and white of the
lotus flowers blending in with the many
shades of green of the surrounds. But its
only as you leave the lotus behind that you
start to see the wonders of Tra Su.
Through the Water
On my visit, the water was low it was

the end of the dry season. The levels the
water had reached last year were marked
in a dark, muddy brown on the bottom of
the trees. The waterways were a half-metre
below their rain-aided high. Yet the birds
stayed year round.
We had already heard the silencedestroying jungle call of the coucal
pheasant, a relative of the cuckoo, and
as we rounded one corner now we both
To get a feel for this quite unique and little known

bird sanctuary, you need to take a boat. These are
melaleuca wetlands, grasslands and swamp. Those
restricted to land dont fare well out here
heard and saw the flapping of wings. White

egrets. For the rest of the motorised trip, the
closest we got to the birds was spying them
from a distance perched on branches or just
above the water before they took flight.
Arriving at a ridge dug out of the
swamps we swapped boats, exchanging
motor for oars. Here the trees and
plant-covered waters provided a murky
background for what was to come. With
rays of sun peaking through the melaleuca,
we entered a tight channel and the birds
came into view. They were everywhere.
I spotted a white egret resting among
branches no more than three metres away,
before it flapped its wings and fled through
the trees. Then a baby white egret, oblivious
to our presence and the swooshing of the
oars. As we wound our way through yet
another narrow passage, I could spy nests
in the trees above, and then suddenly a
black-crowned night heron, perched in
between the branches, leaves and trees.
The oars were removed from the water
and quietly we floated by. Transfixed by
something else, the bird didnt see us. Its
plumage was spread before our upturned
eyes it was magnificent.
Further on, the passageway broke out
into a wide algae and lily-covered lake. In
the distance we could see a huge group

of storks with their long angular beaks,
nesting on branches sticking out of the
water. Eventually they sensed our presence
and flapped off. The swamp hen nearby
wasnt as alert, failing to see us as it made
its way across the surface vegetation of the
water, chick in tow.
And then the sight of the day, a bird
whose species still evades me. All white but
without the s-like neck of the egret or the
stork, it perched for 10 seconds or maybe
15, giving us a clear view. The rowing
boat drifted past in silence. When it finally
flew off, it wasnt in response to us, but to
something else the rare and endangered
Asian open bill in the distance remain

rooted to its spot.
With over 70 species of bird in the
nature reserve, I want to say that Tra Su
is a birdwatchers paradise. But I dont
know what birdwatchers consider to
be paradise. For me this place was both
special and unexpected. Drifting along the
waterways creates a oneness with nature, a
sense of being in the middle of something
that youre close enough to touch. Its a
perspective you rarely find elsewhere in
Vietnam.
Tra Su Nature Reserve is 25km from Chau
Doc in An Giang, close to the Tinh Bien border
crossing to Cambodia
All images on this spread are provided by Eric Merlin / Emeraude Classic Cruises
Boating on the Bay

Navigating the karsts of Halong Bay on pleasure cruises
is an old tradition. If you look at it right, Katie Jacobs
finds, not much has changed
he gusty wind cools the crackling

hot air as our boat, the Marguerite
Garden, chugs her way into the
picturesque Halong Bay. Although
this is my fourth visit to the bay, the sight
of the colossal limestone pillars rising
sharply out of the emerald green water
and glistening in the bright midday sun
still leaves me in awe.
Arriving on the boat in time for a delicious
lunch of local vegetables and freshly caught
seafood, we settle into the comfortable, airconditioned dining room as the limestone
monoliths, topped with shaggy wigs of
green vegetation, leisurely pass us by. Along
with the approximately 600 other overnight
cruise boats, we start our adventure into
the heart of Vietnams most popular tourist
attraction.
Yesterday
Since its dedication as a UNESCO Natural

World Heritage Site in 1994, tourism in
the bay has escalated rapidly. Long before
UNESCO, however, adventure seekers

started finding their way to this unique and
majestic area.
The first tourist boats were launched at
the turn of the 20th century and visitors had
the option of multi-day travel on luxury
cruisers or rustic cargo ships carrying goods
and passengers from Hai Phong Port. Early
photos show couples in long white dresses,
linen suits and straw hats picnicking in
small coves while in the later shots,
bobbed-haired women in sleeveless shirts
tour the bay on large steamers. It was with
glamour and glitz that the first paddle boat
steamers took to Halong Bay, with high-class
chefs, electricity and ensuite bathrooms. No
expense was spared.
Although many of todays boats have lost
the early 20th century glamour, the magic
of the bay remains unchanged. The karst
landscape, small beaches and impressive
caves were as admired in the past as they
are today. The diary of a visitor in the early
1920s reads: The Bay of Halong is certainly
one of the most curious places which can

exist. Theres little real difference between
this quote, and a Tripadvisor review of
nearly a century later Halong Bay is
just out of this world, like nothing ever seen
before.
Today
Taking advantage of the clear and sunny

skies, I hop off for a quick jaunt to the top
of a nearby limestone hill. Venturing up the
stepped path, flanked by beautiful purple
flowers, I reach the summit in less than 10
minutes. At this vantage point, it is easy to
visualise the story my guide Tien had shared
earlier that day.
Although variations exist, legend dictates
that the Jade Emperor sent a dragon to help
to the Viet people fend off invaders. The
dragon dropped large pearls in the water
to confuse and shipwreck the enemy. These
pearls there are 1,600 of them are the
weathered monoliths we see today. Although
changing throughout history, the name Ha
Tourism to the Bay

Already sat on a shipping route, with
regular maritime services between Hai
Phong, Hong Kong, Hanoi, Saigon and
Tourane (Danang), it was only at the
beginning of the early 20th century that
Halong Bay opened up to tourism. The
pioneer? The French-born law graduate
and entrepreneur, Paul Roque.
The second generation of a family
that had first arrived in Vietnam with the
French colonisation of Saigon, by the
time Paul opened up the bay, there were
already regular car services running
between Hai Phong and the seaside
resort of Do Son, a favourite holiday
destination. However, it was only with
the arrival of four custom-built paddle
steamers from Hong Kong the
Emeraude, Saphir, Rubis and Perle
that the true magic of Halong Bay could
be opened up to the general public.
The French public were instantly
entranced. Almost 1,000 of the stone
islands of Halong Bay had been
named, most of them reflecting their
unusual shapes: Elephant Island, Hen
and Cock Islands, Incense Burner
Island. Others resembled boat sails,
or heads, candles, and of course, a
dragon. Then there were the caves
The Cave of Surprises and the Cave
of Wonders with their large stalagmites
and stalactites. Excursions on Halong
Bay became popular, drawing visitors
from all over the colony. Within a
decade, tourists were flocking in from
overseas. And despite two world wars,
the company Paul set up continued to
operate until 1954 when the French were
defeated at Dien Bien Phu.
It was only in the 1990s that tourism
returned to the bay. But the knowledge
that this natural wonder could draw in
the tourists had already been created
almost a century earlier. A replica of
the original Emeraude paddle steamer
bought by Paul Roque sails the
bay to this day.
The diary of a visitor in the early 1920s

reads: The Bay of Halong is certainly one
of the most curious places which can exist.
Theres little real difference between this quote,
and a Tripadvisor review of nearly a century
later Halong Bay is just out of this world,
like nothing ever seen before
Long descending dragon in English
is largely credited to a group of French
sailors who reportedly witnessed a giant sea
snake, or dragon, in the bay.
Over a multi-course dinner, the highlight
of which was the seasoned fresh crab, I
discuss the current tourism situation with
Victor Seow, Asia Pacific representative for
Tonkin Cruises. Victor, onboard to assist with
on-the-job staff training, tells me how Tonkin
Cruises tries to set itself apart necessary in
a market saturated with identical itineraries.
Although tourism is increasing, the
number of boats is becoming excessive
and as competition gets stiff, the quality of
service is the first to go, he explains. Were
very conscious of that at Tonkin. Which is
why Im on-board, to ensure that our service
is always improving.
The Marguerite Garden, one of four boats
operated by the Hanoi-based company,
specialises in one to three-night cruises to
Halong and neighbouring Bai Tu Long Bay.
With 10 well-appointed rooms, the ship is as
luxurious as it was comfortable. Designed
in the traditional junk style, warm wooden
interiors accented with modern furnishings
create a welcoming ambiance for the ships
20 passengers. Windows cover two sides
of my bright, spacious room and, after a
long day of exploring, I happily sink into the
large, soft bed.
Tomorrow
Lying on the roof deck, watching the sun

set across the water, it is easy to forget that
thousands of other visitors are nearby. As the
waiter serves ice-cold beer and the hills turn
to shadows against the pink sky, I block out
the other boats and hope the serenity of the
bay will continue for visitors long into the
future. As the backpackers and adventure
seekers of the 1990s are replaced by the large
tour groups of the present, it is impossible to
predict where the future of tourism lies for

Halong Bay. Although the number of visitors
shows no signs of slowing, increasing
complaints of overcrowding and pollution
are already impacting the integrity of
tourism in the Bay.
The next morning, following a sunrise
session of tai chi, I kayak over to one of
the many floating villages that call the bay
home. Making our way past floating rubbish
and oily water, the threat of pollution is all
too visible. Nearby industrial development,
close proximity to major shipping routes
and an increasing number of tourists is
threatening water quality and straining
waste management.
Aiding in the effort to improve
environmental standards is the recently
launched Halong Bay Alliance, a group
of NGOs working with the government
and local stakeholders to strike a balance
between sustainable economic development
and effective environmental protection. The
aim is not to reduce the number of tourists,
but to sustainably manage their impact.
Improving environmental standards will
ensure that the bay remains the special place
it is for generations to come.
With the sun rising in the sky we cruise
back to shore, the hills slowly receding
behind us in the hazy afternoon heat.
Vietnam is very lucky to have such a
stunning landscape, says our guide Tien,
as we make our way back to the capital.
But in the future I hope that everyone,
from the local communities and visitors, to
the tourism companies and government,
will join together to protect the delicate
environment of Halong Bay.
Katie travelled on the Marguerite Garden,
courtesy of Tonkin Cruises. Their newest boat,
the four-star, 11-room Garden Bay, was launched
at the end of May. For more information visit
tonkincruise.com
Photo by David Harris
Making a Splash
Rowing on West Lake is no longer the reserve of the national team. David Mann
dons a life jacket and meets the Hanoi Kayak Club. Photo by Julie Vola
loating in the middle of Hanois West Lake

is an eerie feeling. The water is flat, the city
seems quiet and the horns of the morning
rush are a distant echo. For a moment, the
citys seven million people are whittled down to
only a handful of fishermen and a cluster of twoman canoes.
The morning I join the Hanoi Kayak Club for
their Sunday paddle, the temperature is a balmy
25 degrees Celsius (and climbing). Around a dozen
people have gathered at the rowing club a mix of
regulars and newcomers who have heard about the
club via word-of-mouth.
Most of us are Vietnamese but a growing
amount of expats are coming along, says Thuy
Bot, who founded the club two years ago with his
brother Trung.
After kayaking for the first time in Halong Bay,
the two brothers set up the club to encourage more
Hanoians to experience the sport. The club now has
around 20 members, with more joining each month.
Eventually they hope the club will be big enough
to put together teams to partake in competitions
around the country.
In March we did a group kayaking trip to Hai
Phong and Cat Ba Island, continues Thuy. Our
next trip will be to Quan Lan Island in Quang
Ninh.
The club welcomes paddlers of all levels of
experience and while many of the clubs members
join to try something new, Thuy says most have
ended up as passionate about the sport as he is.
Many get addicted to it the first time I take them
out. Its so fun and its so easy.
That isnt to say more experienced paddlers
arent welcome either, with two of the clubs
members even winning a national canoe race in
Danang last month.
White Waters
Ben Eichhorn, who joined the club four months

ago, says although West Lake is a far cry from
the best Vietnam has to offer paddlers, its a good
starting point for beginners.
Some of the best streams in Vietnam are in Lao
Cai Province with great flat areas and some
rapids for white water kayaking.
But paddling here is still fun, he adds.
Theyre such a friendly and welcoming group, and
its a great opportunity to socialise and make new
friends.
The club is so welcoming that even curious
bystanders are allowed to throw on a life jacket and
test the waters for themselves. Hong Nguyen, who
watched us paddle from the steps of Van Ho Street,
says she was instantly converted to join after only a
short five minutes on the lake.
It was so easy and so much fun, Im definitely
going to come back again, she says, peeling a life
jacket off a black and white sundress.
The group gathers every Sunday morning for
group paddles, with weekly announcements on
the groups Facebook page. Non-members can
hire canoes at a rate of VND150,000 for the first
hour and VND50,000 for each additional hour.
Alternatively, you can become a member for
VND500,000 per month, with unlimited use of the
kayaks between 6am and 8am and 5pm and 6pm,
seven days a week.
For more information about Hanoi Kayak Club email
kayakhanoi@gmail.com or go to kayakhanoi.com
Ho Chi Minh City

Hangouts
For the Seasick

Want to join in on the boating fun but
worried about getting sea legs?
I N H ANOI ...
You can watch the boats zip by at a

lakeside pool! Try Thong Loi (200 Yen
Phu, Tay Ho) for great West Lake views
but get there early on sunny days to snag
a lounge chair. Or pretend your float is a
boat while going for a ride around the lazy
river or a swim in the wave pool at Ho Tay
Water Park (Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho).
I N S AIGON ...
The sea theme reigns supreme at Ahoy

Beer Club a nautically-themed beer
club, with servers in cute sailor stripes and
little portholes looking out on District 1s
Nguyen Cong Tru (number 79), so that no
matter how dizzy you get youll always
know youre on dry land.
I N N HA T RANG ...
Sprawling over 2,400sqm, The Sailing

Club is the nexus of Nha Trangs beach
scene and maybe the most
noteworthy beach hangout in all
of Vietnam, with big-name DJs,
bikini fashion shows and fire
twirlers all gracing its sands.
Swallowing
the
Anchor
Boating is tough work,
judging by Ho Chi Minh
City and Hanois boatfriendly food and drink
options. Words by
Seamus Butler and
Aimee Millwood, photos
by Kyle Phanroy
and David Harris
Classy Happy Hour

The Deck
38 Nguyen U Di, Q2
Buzzing with after-dinner drinkers, warm

river air billows past the outdoor seating
area. Laughter and conversation float over
slowly moving heaps of mangroves, out into
the darkness and the silence. The Deck is
located at the bend where Thao Dien juts out
into the Saigon River. This upscale lunch and
dinner space has dock-to-dock service from
District 1.
Whether youre looking for a romantic

dinner for two, complete with champagne
service on the boat, or jetting off with a large
party of up to 30 for a midday corporate
lunch, the speedy boat service will have
you feeling nautical. For the rest of us, there
are some of the best cocktails in town and
morning yoga classes, framed by a wild
chunk of river.
Graham Greenes River Scene

The Riverside Caf
8 Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Cargo ships and colonial cannons line the

Saigon riverbanks, just like they did in
Graham Greenes day. Outside the windows
of the Riverside Caf, the constant flow
of motorbikes complements the motion
of the river, and the classic French style of
the Renaissance Riverside Hotel housing
complements the aura. Like a porthole on a
cruise ship, the caf windows act as a portal
to the busy river and street traffic, without

the seasickness. Grab a quick cup of joe or a
lengthy western breakfast as you slink back
in your comfy armchair. When dusk begins
to fall, and the riverboats illuminate in green
and orange blinking lights, sit down for an
after-work cocktail and take in the reflection
on the river.
Quiet Views
The Boathouse
40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2

Speed on water is calculated in knots, a
reference to the knotted rope dragged behind
wooden ships. At The Boathouse though,
no knotted rope contraption is needed as
youll be relaxing at full stop. The expansive
promenade area and ample seating is perfect
for large groups wishing to take in the calm
morning river over an expertly executed
breakfast or for casual evening drinks with
your favourite landlubber.
Though serviced by the same District

1 river shuttle as The Deck, the clientele
is mostly local to District 2, which makes
sense given its location in the gated-off An
Phu Superior Compound complex. But they
make up for the lack of boat traffic with
chartered river cruises the kind that arent
too competitive with the floating chunks
of rice paddy that course down the Saigon
River.
Hanoi
Hangouts
Looking to get shipwrecked?

Taboo Lounge and Bar
2 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho
The techno-and-pop-heavy club music

blaring from the inside of this double-decker
party boat rarely disturbs the peace of West
Lake, so you probably wont notice the
floating bar if you havent been there before.
You can recognise Taboo amidst the other
boats docked along this section of the lake
by the large white curtains blocking off the
inside party to public view.
While Taboos ambiance is typical of other
upscale Vietnamese nightlife locales catering

to the bottle-loving crowd, after venturing
aboard, clubs without lifejackets wont seem
so fun anymore. Taboos bartenders and
waitresses are clad in sailoresque uniforms
and serve up well-crafted drinks to fuel
patrons as they move to a catchy mix of top
hits spun by the onboard DJ. Get a spot near
the stern for the best views of the tabletop
dancers and lightshows.
Reel Her In
Swan Boat and Lakeside Dinner
What better way to spend a springtime day
than on a lakeside date? Our perfect recipe
for sailing away with your lover begins with
a trip out on one of the quintessential swan
boats docked in Hanoi.
Many lakes in Hanoi have a pack of these
swan-shaped gondolas, so how do you
choose where to take your date? Hoa Binh
Lake offers the perfect setting for a quiet,
intimate spin out on the water surrounded
by views of the picturesque park, while West
Lakes expansive size makes it one of the
most popular spots for swan-boaters and
a good choice if you are going on a group

or double date. If you still want to be in the
centre of the action but want to escape the
crowds of West Lake, move next door to
Truc Bach.
After you spend the afternoon paddling
around, were guessing youve worked
up an appetite. Set off for a romantic
evening dinner at one of the nearby floating
restaurants. Potomac Restaurant and Bar
(4 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho), is the only luxurycruise-turned-fine-dining restaurant, taking
nighttime excursions across West Lake.
Bia Ahoy
Nha Hang Bia Hoi Hai Dang
614 Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho
The fishermen are Westlake icons and

the floating bia hoi joints on Lac Long Quan
are just the type of place we imagine theyd
frequent for their lunchtime fare. The two
Nha Hang Bia Hoi boats docked near the
Ho Tay Water Park arent your typical
watering hole: the refurbished cargo ferries
mix typical bia hoi cuisine with seafood in a
quaint environment overlooking the lake.
Seafood dishes include mixed hot pots,

snails, shrimp, and of course, fish. For
those sea lovers who prefer not to eat their
pescatarian friends, their fried chicken
or morning glory dishes are both great
options. Join in with the local clientele who
flock here during packed lunch and dinner
rushes for a hefty meal and calm views of
West Lake.
Arts
Ha Manh Thang Installation View
ARTS
A Decade on the Scene

On the eve of its second decade, Saigon-based Galerie Quynh is still leading the way.
Words by Cristina Nualart. Photos provided by Galerie Quynh
Nguyen Manh Hung Keep My Planet Clean
street sweeper pauses his broom

in the middle of the night. From
the shadows of the empty asphalt,
he looks at two people sleeping in
a glowing-red shop window. A ceiling of
crimson roses and red velvet walls cradle
the sleepers nested in vermillion satin. One
night, 500 people gathered to see the softly lit
red bed. How many of those just passing by
would be surprised to hear that the sleeping
beauties were making art?
The 12-night-long performance was the
first street-view art exhibition of its kind
in Vietnam. The artist Sue Hadju created
Magma: were not counting sheep in 2006, and
it remains one of the highlights of Galerie
Sandrine Llouquet Installation View
Quynhs first decade of existence. The project

is testament to the gallerys mission: to bring
innovative art to the Vietnamese public. We
didnt get sponsorship, we had nothing for
sale, says Quynh Pham, the gallery founder.
We wanted to support it. We never really
thought about sales.
Naturally, the event didnt generate any
revenue, but it did put Galerie Quynh on the
international radar. Publications like Art In
America and the London-based Contemporary
magazine featured the show.
Getting famous international artists to
come and show in Vietnam is about as easy
as getting Madonna to sing at your wedding,
yet as a result of the publicity, the gallery was
soon able to exhibit the work of renowned

Japanese-American artist Bruce Yonemoto.
Worldwide, Galerie Quynh is still probably
the best known if not the only known
Vietnamese gallery. When art historian
Quynh Pham left her job in a well-known
museum in California to found the gallery
finally setting up in 2003 Vietnam had
very little in terms of an art scene.
Trailblazers
In the 1990s, Salon Natasha and Nhasan
Studio, two artist-run spaces in Hanoi,
opened the doors to contemporary art in
Vietnam. At the turn of the millenium,
international backing provided more cultural
The aim is not just to sell, but to make contemporary art

from Vietnam more visible to the general public
Nguyen Manh Hung Go To Market
Tiffany Chung Installation View
Collisions of Clamor and Calm Installation
spaces in Hanoi, such as the Gethe Institut,

the Ford Foundation, Alliance Francaises
LEspace, the British Council and the Danish
Cultural Development and Exchange
Foundation. Private galleries started popping
up on Vietnams high streets, but most were
just shops that sold paintings. They were not
galleries that worked with artists to develop
their careers and raise public awareness of
contemporary practices.
Many commercial painting shops remain,
but a lot of the important galleries have now
closed, such as Blue Space, Ryllega and Bui
Gallery, while the renowned Art Vietnam
gallery in Hanoi is now run from home by its
owner Suzanne Lecht, with viewings only by
appointment. Galerie Quynh has survived

despite the difficulties, even opening a
second gallery in 2013. It plans to open a
third space shortly a non-commercial,
experimental venue in the Ho Chi Minh City
Museum of Fine Arts courtyard.
Weve been knocked down so many
times, it [would be] easy to give up, says
Quynh. Disaster moments included the
all-too-common situation of having to move
location, for the second time, because after
renovating the venue, the landlord wanted
it back.
But grit, and plenty of hard work, can
solve most problems. We all know that
success does not come overnight, Hoang
Duong Cam, one of the gallery artists

confirms. Together we shed a lot of sweat
and tears to get to where we are right now.
Generating Culture
When things seem hard, they usually get
worse. The financial crisis slowed down
global business, even in then-buzzing
Vietnam. 2009, 2010 were very hard years
for us, Quynh says. Her clients, many of
them westerners, mostly live outside of
Vietnam. Most gallerists in Vietnam are
working hard to develop a collector base
among the local population, and Quynh is
no exception in trying to build relationships
with wealthy Vietnamese business people
Its not easy for a gallery to survive in a country where the majority of
people dont even think of looking at art, let alone buying it. I would say
for about eight years, Quynh recalls, it was running like an art centre
who, for now, show little interest in art as
a monetary and cultural investment.
Its not easy for a gallery to survive in a
country where the majority of people dont
even think of looking at art, let alone buying
it. I would say for about eight years,
Quynh recalls, it was running like an art
centre. Not quite like a non-profit, but only
just managing to sell enough to continue
their programming and fund their exhibition
catalogues. Galerie Quynh has printed over
a dozen publications on their artists.
The biggest challenge happened recently.
Contemporary art takes many forms and
mediums, and as any cinema-goer knows
screen size, quality and resolution
change the viewing experience. Hanging
an exhibition for Tiffany Chung, an artist
of worldwide fame, led to near breakdown
on all sides. Tiffanys multichannel video
art requires sophisticated technology.
We dont have the infrastructure here in
Vietnam, says Quynh. In the future we
will have to hire specialist people and bring
in certain equipment.
Technology is not the only obstacle.
Carpenters have been known to frame
pictures upside down. Printers can run late
with catalogue production, and Quynh
has had to oversee completion until the
early hours of the morning. In Vietnam
we always have lots of production issues.
Everything just takes time.
One of the biggest challenges is in the
details art, serious art, must be of the
best quality. We dont have archival
materials in Vietnam, so we have to bring
them over from the United States or
elsewhere, Quynh notes, somehow with
no exasperation in her voice.
A Room of Vietnams Own

Despite all this weve never had a
meltdown, she smiles. The key to our
success is the relationship we have with our
artists. Passion for art is Galerie Quynhs
driving force. I dont have an MBA. I come
from an art history, theoretical background,
which the artists respect. Instead of giving
guidelines on how artists can make their
work more saleable, Quynh critiques
their work (very bluntly, she admits) and
motivates them to push their ideas further.
I really care about them as professional
artists, she says.
In turn, the gallerys artists stood by even
during the low points. Many international
galleries are wary of taking on Vietnamese
artists, because some sell their art behind
the gallerys back after the gallery has

invested heavily in promoting them. Quynh
is proud to say that her gallery has only
lost two artists in all of these years. Weve
worked with 17 artists on different projects,
she says. The younger generation have built
strong careers thanks to that partnership.
The invitation to the gallerys walls isnt
open to all comers. The art has to resonate
with her. As a curator, her career depends on
making choices she can defend with heart
and soul. I do feel that we are the leading
gallery in the nation, Quynh says. We
have solid programming. We have vision.
The aim is not just to sell, but to make
contemporary art from Vietnam more
visible to the general public. Galerie
Quynh has endorsed events and artists
talks, and worked with organisations such
as A little blah blah (albb), Wonderful
District, San Art, Zero Station and Dia
Projects. International collaborations with
various museums and artistic projects
are significant. The gallery supported a
fundraising event for Japans Red Cross,
following the 2011 tsunami. From 2010 to
2012 Galerie Quynh was the first and only
gallery from Vietnam invited to participate
in the prestigious ART HK international
art fair.
Galerie Quynh expanded in 2013, and
now has two art spaces in Ho Chi Minh City.
But the future of the gallery doesnt only
take place within the walls of these spaces
or even within the space of Vietnam.
When Quynh thinks about the future, shes
thinking about the global conversation
that she came to Vietnam to start. The next
step? We need to start a dialogue with
museums.
Shes doing just that. In the courtyard of
the Museum of Fine Arts, her new space
has just been renovated. Sao La, Galerie
Quynhs newest initiative, is not going to
be a commercial space. There are plans
for something a bit more experimental,
like educational programmes and
opportunities for emerging artists who
may feel intimidated by the traditional
route, which sees shows planned at least a
year in advance.
One thing seems certain, failure will
not be a deterrent to making it work.
Im really excited about our future,
glows Quynh a future that has quite a
precedent to work from.
Galerie Quynh is at 65 De Tham, Q1, Ho Chi
Minh City and Level 2, 151/3 Dong Khoi, Q1,
Ho Chi Minh City
The Artists
T HIERRY B ERNARD -G OTTELAND
French artist Thierry Bernard-Gotteland is

quite blas about exhibiting his artwork.
He works as a lecturer and would make
the art anyway, he shrugs. Since his
focus is on sound art, it costs him nothing
to create it on his computer, and he
doesnt need a physical place to store it.
Yet he has chosen to work with Galerie
Quynh because it keeps him in contact
with other art professionals. It has also
allowed him to expand his creative
practice into, in his own words, more
traditional materials. Leather sofas in
chains and self-playing music machines
may not be your idea of traditional art,
but he assures us, with solid philosophic
reasoning, that it is.
H OANG D UONG C AM
Any artist that titles his work Square

Eggs and Things Under Shells is going
to either fail instantly or ooze enough
creativity for at least two lifetimes. Hoang
Duong Cam, one of Vietnams most
playful artists, began his career in Hanoi,
where Square Eggs was projected at
the Gethe Institut in 2001. 10 years later,
at Galerie Quynh which represents
him since he moved to Saigon Cam
exhibited his favourite show to date.
Ideal Fall, shown in 2011, was a
big challenge for him and the gallery.
Preparation took nearly three years. The
work included activities such as throwing
sculptures off rooftops and shredding
workers uniforms to make a hanging,
upside-down monument.
S ANDRINE L LOUQUET
Drawings of bandaged heads, fat cats,

dead birds and evil sheep could mislead
you into thinking that Stephen King has
taken up art. Sandrine Llouquets works
are disquieting renderings of human
turmoil, with characters from childhood
nightmares.
They are surprisingly captivating,
though, because of the freshness of the
line and watercolour strokes. Sandrine
has worked with Galerie Quynh since
moving to Vietnam in 2005. She has
been very active with collaborative
projects that have shaken up Ho Chi
Minh Citys sleepy art world. She
occasionally works as a VJ.
insider
Th e World Cup
Special
World Cups are entirely predictable, at least until the first game
has finished, when people start looking at one another and
asking questions. Questions like: Why does the ball always fly
out of the stadium when someone kicks it? Where is Senegal?
Why did those Scottish players bundle the ball into their own
net? How do you pronounce Schillaci?
So while we all know the bare facts about the 2014 World Cup,
what will we be saying after the opening clash between Brazil
and Croatia at 3am on Jun. 13? Will the tournament favour
heavyweights (Hulk) or bantamweights (Luka Modric)? Will the
Brazuca ball turn all goalkeepers into Massimo Taibi? What is the
referees new crackdown du jour? What entertaining new sights
and sounds can we expect from the caipirinha-fuelled crowds, or
will inflated ticket prices leave the stadiums half empty?
From Alaba to Zaccheroni, from 1990 to 2022, Word looks at
the highs and lows, and offers a guide to the must-sees and
must-dos of Brazil 2014. Words by David Legard
Must-see games
he trick of watching a football

tournament, especially one played
entirely at night, is to pace yourself
in the early stages, so that youre
match-fit for the final. But its hard to miss
the first game, after the big build-up, so
Brazil vs. Croatia (3am, Fri. June 13) has to
be on the list. Weekend games are always
easier for working folk, so Spain vs.
Netherlands (2am, Sat. June 14) is another
must.
England fans wont want to miss the

teams opening bout with Italy (Sun. June
15, 5am), and if that match leaves them
sobbing on the kitchen floor, theres always
the contrasting styles in Ivory Coast vs.
Japan to follow at 8am.
A decent sleep on Sunday night will
have fans raring to go for Germany vs.
Portugal (Mon. June 16, 11pm), and there
is a neat double-header of Australia vs.
Netherlands and Spain vs. Chile (Wed.
3am, Fri. June 13
2am, Sat. June 14
VS
Brazil
VSJapan
Ivory Coast
2am, Fri. June 20
VSUruguay
England
5am, Sun. June 15
VS
Croatia
8am, Sun. June 15
June 18, 11pm). England return against

Uruguay (Fri. June 20, 2am) and the
potentially crucial Switzerland France
match starts the next weekend off (Sat.
June 21, 2am). Then its off to work again
on the back of USA vs. Portugal (Mon.
June 23, 5am).
That takes us into the final round of
group games, played simultaneously, with
the stand-out game probably Italy against
Uruguay (Tue. June 24, 11pm).
Spain
11pm, Mon. June 16
VSPortugal
Neth erlands
VS
England
11pm, Wed. June 18
VS
11pm, Wed. June 18
Germany
Australia Neth erlands
2am, Sat. June 21
5am, Mon. June 23
VSFrance
Switzerland
Usa
VSPortugal
Italy
Spain
VS Ch ile
11pm, Tue. June 24
Italy
VSUruguay
Dark H orses
Belgium
Not truly dark horses, just

piebald, perhaps, as there's
recognised quality from front
to back, starting with Atletico
Madrid/Chelseas Thibaut
Courtois in goal, Man Citys
Vincent Kompany at the heart
of defence, the mesmerising
Eden Hazard in midfield and
now, after deciding which
of seven nations he wanted
to represent, Man Uniteds
Japan
Plenty to like about this

Japanese team, not least being
the near-home support they can
expect at each game, from the
more than 2 million Brazilians
of Japanese descent. Or even
just Daniele Suzuki. Many of
the big European clubs have a
talented Japanese player among
their ranks, and not just for the
replica kit sales. Man Uniteds

Shinji Kagawa and AC Milan's
Keisuke Honda are the best of
the bunch, leading veteran coach
Zaccheroni to build the teams
playing system around them.
As a measure of their quality,
they beat Belgium 3-2 away
in December last year. Also,
their compact style should be
suited to the South American
conditions. Nobody is seriously
suggesting they have the weight
to go the whole way, but if
they get the rub of the green
early on, they could easily find
themselves in a last 16 clash
with England.
Ch ile
Only qualify as dark horses

because of their group opponents
(Spain and Netherlands) and
because their squad, apart
from Barcelonas Alexis
Sanchez, is largely unknown.
But this anonymous collection

dismantled England at Wembley
last year, under the near-mystic
guidance of Andre Agassilookalike coach Jorge Sampaoli.
In qualification, they beat
Uruguay at home and drew
with Brazil away and in a recent
friendly drew with the mighty
Spain. Anything is possible
for this team, but so is
nothing, given the
tough group.
precocious striker Adnan

Januzaj to partner Romelu
Lukaku in attack.
They won their qualifying
group by a dizzying 9 points,
and with 17 squad members
playing in the top four
European leagues, the Red
Devils have talent in depth and
a young squad. Easily the best
team in Group H on paper, they
could be heading for a lively
clash with Portugal in the last
16. Their problems? Lack of
experience at the top level,
perhaps, and being a European
team in South America. But
the pundits like their chances,
rating them the 6th most likely
team to lift the trophy.
Th e Downside
While most World Cups have been a festival of football and, ahem, a celebration of international
comradeship, there have always been moments better forgotten
1990: Italy
If, as some critics noted of the World Cup

Final, that it is the best that the worlds two
best teams can produce, then wed be better
off playing buzkashi or Kinect Danceoff. The interminable drone of a match
briefly came to light after 65 minutes when
Argentinas lumbering defender Pedro
Monzon approached German striker Jrgen
Klinsmann, who reacted as though he were
a breakdancer being repeatedly tasered by
a SWAT team. Millions of viewers were
on the edge of their seats praying that the
match wouldnt go to extra time, and their
entreaties were answered when the referee,
on a whim, decided to award Germany a
penalty in the last 10 minutes.
1994: USA
The scene was set early when Diego

Maradona scored a goal and then
celebrated in such a hyperactively oafish
manner that a urine test was hardly needed
to confirm the presence in his compacted
frame of a cocktail of interesting stimulants.
The drug theme continued, with members
of the Colombian entourage receiving
death threats over team selection the
captain was shot dead back in Colombia,
11 days after scoring an own goal against
the USA. Amazingly, the final produced
even less goals than the one before, only to
be decided when Roberto Baggio, aka the
Divine Ponytail, summoned up all his inner
composure and ballooned the vital penalty
into the stands.
1998: France
Cardiac problems, poisoning, epileptic

fits, upset stomachs, bad ankles and
panic attacks. Any or all of these could
have been the cause of the distress of
Brazilian superstar Ronaldo on the
morning of the final. After initially being
left out of the team, he eventually played,
Kh oa Lee
though apparently so zonked he couldnt

remember whether he was supposed
to be marking Zinedine Zidane or his
own shadow. The Brazilians sank to an
ignominious defeat, handing victory to the
French, wildly celebrated by their mascot
Jules, which resembled Donald Duck in a
beret. On the bright side, the Golden Boot
was won for the first time by a one-legged
player, Croatias Davor Sukur.
2002: South Korea & Japan
Apart from leaving the grass on the pitches

long enough to satisfy fussy herbivores,
and allowing the tournament mascots to
be chosen by diners at McDonalds outlets,
most people applauded the Asian nations
organisational efforts. The players, however,
proved not to be in full control of their
anatomies, with Rivaldo clutching his face
in agony after being struck on the knee,
and his teammate Ronaldo sporting a patch
of hair on his forehead which would have
looked more appropriate inside his shorts.
2006: Germany
Concerned that the football was not

proving entertaining enough, the referees
decided to stage their own long-running
comedy routine, rewarding divers with
penalties instead of red cards, booking
players three times in the same match
before sending them off and being lenient
on general thuggery to the point where
criticisms began to be voiced. Russian
referee Valentin Ivanov promptly decided
to restore the average in the next match by
sending off four players and issuing a total
of 16 yellow cards, though inexplicably
failing to give himself one.
2010: South Africa
Opinions are divided as to whether the
Vietnam
AC Milan and Juventus Fan
Germany might win because
they have experience and
young power!
vote should go to the Jabulani or the

Vuvuzela. The choice depends on whether
you are a visual or aural aesthete
whether the sight of yet another free-kick
sailing into Row Z hurts more than the
sound of a billion sheep being clumsily
sheared on a nightly basis.
2014: Brazil
Among all the potential pitfalls, such as

stadiums falling on the punters heads,
a tacky opening ceremony or the Pope
turning up in an Argentina shirt, our
vote goes to goal-line technology being
used for the first time. Calling technology
infallible is the surest possible prelude to
disaster, and whos to say some 11-yearold Bulgarian geek wont hack into the ball
and start awarding goals at random?
2018: Russia
Sepp Blatter and Michel Platini, FIFAs

answer to Cheech & Chong, have hatched
plans to expand the finals competition to
a wearying 40 teams, which means that
the whole thing will take longer than
Napoleons retreat from Moscow. The
rationale, if such it could be called, is to
allow in more teams from the developing
(i.e. non-European) countries, who will
show their gratitude by, er, voting for
Blattini to stay in the job.
2022: Qatar
FIFAs got itself into a jam here, caused

by its instinctive habit of pandering to
the extremely rich, as long as they know
nothing about football. It turns out the
Qataris are not as rich as FIFA thought,
and will not be air-conditioning the entire
country, meaning that players will have to
endure game-time temperatures of over
40 degrees Celsius or play at the dead
of night. If not, Qatar will have to build
underground stadiums.
Fitzgerald Andreani
France
Football Coach
Brazil can win but
in football, there are
sometimes big surprises.
Amazon
Th e A t o Z of
The one place that England boss Roy

Hodgson wanted to avoid, and thus the
venue the city of Manaus chosen by
the football gods for the teams first group
match against Italy. To add to its charm, the
mayor of Manaus has said that Hodgson is
not welcome in the city after his disparaging
comments about the suitability of its climate
for playing football.
Brazuca
The ball, designed by computer, built by

robots, automatically bonded and welded, and
the most high-tech and best tested ball in the
history of organised sport.
Curitiba
The coolest of the Brazilian cities, climate-wise,

where the temperatures could even slip below
freezing during the tournament, which should
suit Russia if they need a result against Algeria
everyone at their own Quito mountaintop

retreat in qualifying.
Fuleco
Resembling an anteater in need of a course

of Botox, Fuleco is the mascot for the 2014
tournament, continuing a sad tradition that
dates back to World Cup Willie, who at least
won the cup for England in 1966.
Goalkeepers
It would seem to be Englands best tactic

is to go around treading heavily on every
goalkeeper they can find in the Premier
League, since almost one quarter of the
first-choice stoppers going to Brazil ply their
trade in England or have links there. On
the hit-list could have been Amir Begovic
(Stoke & Bosnia), Simon Mignolet (Liverpool
& Belgium), Michael Vorm (Swansea &
Netherlands), Tim Krul (Newcastle &
Netherlands), Hugo Lloris (Spurs & France),
in their final group game. The citys Arena

de Baixada also features the most shambolic
renovation of all the Brazilian stadiums. A
considerable achievement.
Julio Cesar (Brazil & QPR), with reportedly

still an outside chance for Mark Schwarzer
(Chelsea & Australia).
Draw
The current England manager has never

coached in Mongolia or Gabon, but few other
places have escaped his peripatetic career. His
hangdog expression exudes failure, which
is why his results are always better than
expected. Hes got his work cut out this time,
though. England are in the Group of not
Death, perhaps but the Group of Serious
Injury, with an unexceptional team whose
one major figure, Wayne Rooney, has never
performed well on the big stage, and an army
of supporters who always think the team is
better than it is.
The old belief that to win the World Cup, you

have to beat the worlds best is only partially
true. Some have it better than others. This
years lucky spot goes to Argentina, whose
passage to the semi-finals sees only France
in their way as a serious obstacle. Germany,
too, has a fairly straightforward path, if it can
overcome two tropical lunchtime starts in the
group phase.
Estadio Nacional, Brasilia
In contrast to the Amazonian heat, this

68,000-seater stadium is almost 1,200 metres
above sea-level, and could provide some
comfort for teams who like playing at altitude.
Good news for Ecuador, who drubbed almost
H odgson
Ipanema
It should be the epitome of Brazilian beach

cool, but is now home to burning tyre
barricades and Molotov cocktails thrown by

the angry residents of a nearby favela slum,
who have been roaming the area frightening
the locals out of their tan-through microkinis.
The security situation is one of the things that
could go seriously wrong with the World Cup.
Jonas Eriksson
Multi-millionaire players are the rule, but

Eriksson is an exception as a multi-millionaire
referee after a canny investment in the media
businesses. A FIFA international ref. for 12
years, the 40-year-old Swede is not everyones
cup of tea Rangers fans still remember
him for denying them a penalty in the 2009
Champions League, while Manchester City
coach Manuel Pellegrini had even stronger,
even actionable, words to say about him
earlier this year.
Killing Tiki-Taka
Footballing styles, like kick and rush, catenaccio
or totaalvoetbal, come and go. And so will

tiki-taka, the successful style that has been in
vogue in Spain, and particularly at Barcelona.
Countering it involves watching the tiki-taka
team tap the ball around, steal it off them and
then race up field en masse, like a betterdressed version of Mel Gibsons Bravehearts.
Lack of goals
The number of goals scored in World Cups

has dropped steadily from 1998 (171 goals),
to 2002 (161), 2006 (147) and finally 2010,
when just 145 goals were scored with the
miserable Jabulani beach ball, many of
them accidental. Combined with the late
kick-off times, best to pick the right matches
to watch. Apart from those with national
allegiances, South Korea v Algeria at 2am
looms as a poor return on investment.
Muslera, Fernando
Among the impressive array of goalkeepers
t h e World Cup
on show, Uruguays highly rated stopper
has a penchant for saving important
penalties, and is affectionately known
by the Lazio fans as castorino (the little
beaver) for his high-action style. And for
his habit of gnawing the goalposts when
the balls up the other end.
Nigh tmare
Runners-up in 2010, the Dutch, could

hardly have thought that their next
encounter at the World Cup finals would
be against their ultimate conquerors
Spain, in the 80 percent humidity and
tropical heat of Salvador. Assuming they
get through the group as runners-up, they
will meet the winners of Group A, which
is almost certain to be Brazil.
Olympics
Fast rewind to 2008 and the Beijing Games,

where many of the players who will turn out
for their national teams in Brazil 2014 were

cutting their teeth in top-level competition.
Argentina won gold, Nigeria silver, with
Brazil and Belgium making the semi-finals.
Postecoglu
The man with the worst job at the World

Cup, perhaps excepting the fellow tasked
with stopping punters entering the
Maracana without tickets. Big Ange is
the new coach of Australia in the Group
of Annihilation. With Spain and Holland
coming up, if anyone can get the Socceroos a
point, or even a goal, its Big Ange.
Queiroz
Another of the young Portuguese managers,

but with an apprenticeship with Sir Alex
Ferguson under his belt, Carlos has the
difficult task of making something of a
patently outclassed Iran squad. Theyre
gluttons for punishment, this group of
managers compatriot Andres Villas-Boas

spent time as coach of the British Virgin
Islands. No wonder he got over a season at
Tottenham.
Ronaldo, Cristiano
have a tympanic device called the caxirola,

resembling a couple of half coconuts that
can be bashed together to annoy everyone.
To widespread relief, a stadium ban on these
devices is being considered.
There is no better time for the Portuguese

captain to make his mark on football history.
Four years ago in South Africa, he was Man of
the Match in all Portugals group games, but
was well shackled in their last-16 defeat by
Spain. Their opening match will be key the
opponents are Germany. But its a lunchtime
kick-off in Salvador, with the prospect of 80
percent humidity and temperatures around
26 degrees Celsius, which shouldnt worry
the boy from Madeira.
Weath er
Sh ootouts
Xabi Alonso
suppose this time will be any different. Some

teams do them well (Germany), others do
them badly (Portugal) and still others would
do better to give in straight away to avoid
embarrassment (England).
Sociedad, Alonso has won two European

Championships and one World Cup with
Spain, the UEFA Champions League, the
UEFA Super Cup, the FA Cup, La Liga,
the Copa del Rey and numerous personal
awards.
There has been a steady average of three

penalty shootouts in World Cups over the
past 20 years, and there is no reason to
Twitter
Although Twitter was around in 2010, this

will be the first World Cup where more than
half of the players have live accounts.
Uruguay
A strike force of Luis Suarez and Edson

Cavani, a manager of 25 years tenure
nicknamed El Maestro, playing next door to
home and Costa Rica first up. Who stands
in their way of a run at least matching their
2010 semi-final achievement? Answer:
England, their second group opponent.
Vuvuzela
Lets hope not. Unfortunately the Brazilians
The last time the World Cup was staged

in Brazil, in 1950, all the matches were
played in Rio and Sao Paulo, temperate
cities during the Southern Hemisphere
winter. This year, the competition is played
equally in the tropical north Manaus,
Salvador, Fortaleza, Natal. European teams
traditionally fare badly in such conditions,
and so Italy must be rueing the fact that their
three group games are all in the tropics.
Few players have won more trophies
than the 32-year-old Spaniard. Since
being discovered by John Toshack at Real
Yaya
And Kolo. And Didier. And Solomon Kalou.

With global talent like this at Ivory Coasts
disposal, why are the pundits so down on
Les lphants? In both 2006 and 2010 they
were drawn in the Group of Death and failed
to progress. Not this time, though.
Zac Japan
Japanese football is slowly approaching the

big time, and has perhaps its best team ever
on show. But a key element is veteran Italian
coach Albert Zaccheroni whose innovative
and successful 4-2-3-1 layout has been given
the name Zac Japan.
Brazil
Mexico
Cameroon
Spain
Net h erlands
Croatia
Ch ile
Aust ralia
Brazil are already looking towards a last 16 clash with Spain or the
Netherlands, and with Cameroon merely a shadow of their former selves,
the back-up spot should be decided by a final-day shootout in Recife
between a Croatia team which recently lost at home to Scotland, and a
Mexico outfit which needed to win a play-off against New Zealand to
qualify. Its likely to rain, which could favour the Europeans.
Qualifiers: Brazil, Croatia
Never before have the finalists at the previous World Cup been grouped together
in the next tournament, which bodes poorly for the other two teams in the group.
Chile are no mugs, though, and their innovative 3-1-3-3 system proved altogether
too much for England in last years Wembley friendly. If the Netherlands have
adopted their well-known implosion mentality, the last group game could be an
intriguing clash. Australia, though technically outclassed, are bound to be spirited
and combative, especially when facing Spains irritating tiki-taka style.
Qualifiers: Spain, Chile
Groups
Colombia
Greece
Uruguay
Costa Rica
Ivory Coast
Japan
England
Italy
A football festival all its own, with teams ranging from the dourly
physical (Greece) to the intermittently potent (Ivory Coast), the
all-round talented (Colombia) and the neatly organisational (Japan).
Greece, who limped into the finals having only scored 12 goals in 10
qualifying games, would seem to be least suited to the conditions, with
an ageing squad facing humid tropical conditions for two of their three
group games. The opening clash in rainy Recife between The Elephants
and The Samurai could be telling.
Qualifiers: Colombia, Japan
Carles Noales
Spain
Barcelona fan
If I had to bet, I would pick
Brazil. They will play at home
and are a strong young team.
A curly conundrum of a group with the only certainty being that Costa
Rica will not be featuring in the next round. Even the professional pundits
cant separate the three remaining teams Italy, Uruguay and England
and it may be that the shape and form of the group will be settled in the
first match, when Italy meet England on a steamy, bug-infested night in
the middle of the Amazon. The winner can start planning for the knock-out
stage, and the loser can begin booking flights home and concocting excuses.
A draw, and the imperative of blootering as many goals past Costa Rica
comes into play, in case everyone draws with everyone else.
Qualifiers: England, Uruguay
Tomas Werner
Germany
IT company CEO
I think Brazil, then Germany,
but USA has also a very
strong team, too. So lets see!
Switzerland
France
Ecuador
H onduras
France were truly awful in the last World Cup, under Mystic Raymond,
and even with much the same squad, look rather better under the
pragmatic Laurent Blanc. They are further buoyed by a clear passage
to the last eight if they top the group, and the presence in the group of
Honduras, who have never won a finals match. Switzerland and Ecuador
are scheduled to battle for the runners-up spot and a last 16 clash with
Argentina.
Qualifiers: France, Ecuador
Germany
Gh ana
Portugal
USA
The USAs quest may be another victim of the Amazonian heat if

they cant get anything from their Manaus clash with Portugal,
then they are staring down the barrel, given that their third game
is against Germany. Ghana make up the group, but even their freescoring attack and impressive showing in 2010 hasnt impressed the
pundits at all.
Qualifiers: Germany, Portugal
Argentina
Bosnia
Iran
Nigeria
Beating the Maldives 1-0 is poor preparation for taking on Lionel Messi
and his Argentina powerhouse, and it seems likely that Iran will go home
empty-handed from this group. Thus the runner-up spot will be up for
grabs between the chaotic casserole of power, talent and disorganisation
that is Nigeria, and a Bosnia side that is new to the finals but has talent
from back to front.
Qualifiers: Argentina, Nigeria
Belgium
Russia
Algeria
South Korea
Belgium will win this group comfortably, if matches are decided by hairstyle
alone. They should have qualified by the time they play their final group game
against South Korea, a team so poorly coiffed it suggests that each player is
shortly to return to the Army reserve.
Also in the group are Russia, whose haircuts are a monument to the
suppression of private enterprise, and Algeria, who did the only thing possible
after losing a qualifier in a place called Ouagadougou, and shaved their heads.
Qualifiers: Belgium, Russia
Wildcards
hen the UN pressures FIFA

to throw Russia out of the
tournament, there are various
options for replacing them. The
obvious ones include inviting Sweden,
as the next nearest European team to
qualifying or Ukraine, just to bolster
FIFAs democratic credentials.
We think it would be more interesting to

make up a scratch team from players whose
countries failed to qualify. How would they
do? Look at the line-up:
Goalkeeper: Petr Cech (Chelsea & Czech
Republic)
Defence: Ivanovic (Chelsea & Serbia);
Subotic (Borussia Dortmund & Serbia);
Agger (Liverpool & Denmark); Alaba (Bayern

Munich & Austria)
Midfield: Eriksen (Spurs & Denmark);
Jovetic (Man City & Montenegro); Mkhitaryan
(Borussia Dortmund & Armenia)
Attack: Bale (Real Madrid & Wales);
Ibrahimovic (PSG & Sweden); Lewandowsky
(Borussia Dortmund & Poland)
Brazil
Cameroon
Mexico
Croatia
Spain
Net h erlands
Ch ile
Aust ralia
Fri. June 13
3am
Brazil vs Croatia
Sat. June 14
3am
Fri. June 13
11pm
Mexico vs Cameroon
Sat. June 14
5am
Ch ile vs Australia
17
Wed. June 18
2am
Brazil vs Mexico
19
Th u. June 19
5am
Spain vs Ch ile
18
Th u. June 19
2am
Cameroon vs Croatia
20
Wed. June 18
11pm
Australia vs Net h erlands
33
Tue. June 24
3am
Cameroon vs Brazil
35
Mon. June 23
11pm
Australia vs Spain
34
Tue. June 24
3am
Croatia vs Mexico
36
Mon. June 23
11pm
Net h erlands vs Ch ile
Colombia
Greece
Sat. June 14
11pm
Colombia vs Greece
Sun. June 15
2am
Uruguay vs Costa Rica
Sun. June 15
5am
Ivory Coast vs Japan
Sun. June 15
5am
England vs Italy
21
Th u. June 19
11pm
Colombia vs Ivory Coast
23
Fri. June 20
2am
Uruguay vs England
22
Fri. June 20
5am
Japan vs Greece
24
Fri. June 20
11pm
Italy vs Costa Rica
37
Wed. June 25
3am
Japan vs Colombia
39
Tue. June 24
11pm
Italy vs Uruguay
38
Wed. June 25
3am
Greece vs Ivory Coast
40
Tue. June 24
11pm
Costa Rica vs England
japan
Ivory Coast
Costa Rica
Uruguay
Spain vs Net h erlands
England
Italy
Match Sch edule

Switzerland
Ecuador
France
H onduras
Bosnia
Argentina
Iran
Nigeria
Sun. June 15
11pm
Switzerland vs Ecuador
11
Mon. June 16
5am
Argentina vs Bosnia
10
Mon. June 16
2am
France vs H onduras
12
Tue. June 17
2am
Iran vs Nigeria
25
Sat. June 21
2am
Switzerland vs France
27
Sat. June 21
11pm
Argentina vs Iran
26
Sat. June 21
5am
H onduras vs Ecuador
28
Sun. June 22
5am
Nigeria vs Bosnia
41
Th u. June 26
3am
H onduras vs Switzerland
43
Wed. June 25
11pm
Nigeria vs Argentina
42
Th u. June 26
3am
Ecuador vs France
44
Wed. June 25
11pm
Bosnia vs Iran
Germany
Portugal
Gh ana
USA
Belgium
Algeria
Russia
South Korea
13
Mon. June 16
11pm
Germany vs Portugal
15
Tue. June 17
11pm
Belgium vs Algeria
14
Tue. June 17
5am
Gh ana vs USA
16
Wed. June 18
5am
Russia vs South Korea
29
Sun. June 22
2am
Germany vs Gh ana
31
Sun. June 22
11pm
Belgium vs Russia
30
Mon. June 23
5am
USA vs Portugal
32
Mon. June 23
2am
South Korea vs Algeria
45
Th u. June 26
11pm
USA vs Germany
47
Fri. June 27
3am
South Korea vs Belgium
46
Th u. June 26
11pm
Portugal vs Gh ana
48
Fri. June 27
3am
Algeria vs Russia
H iep Ph an
Vietnam
Consultant
Brazil always has a very good
team and this World Cup will
be held in their home. Under the
leadership of Philipe Scolari, I
believe they will make it this time.
Daniel H opkins
Australia
Vietnam Swan Aussie Rules
Football Club
I think Brazil will win the
World Cup because I cant
go against the home country
fairy tale.
Lee Dunton
Rich ard Carrington
UK
Joint owner of Vinyl Bar
My favourite to win is Brazil.
However, I cant rule out the
Italians and the Germans. If I was
an outside better I would put my
money on Mexico or Argentina.
However, being patriotic, England
may have a chance if they can get
out of the qualifying stages.
UK
Arsenal fan
France will win. Theyre the
dark horse, theyve got a very
good squad, there is no pressure
on them and theyve dropped
one of their best players Sami
Nasri who would have caused
problems in the squad. Brazil are
under too much pressure.
Round of 16
Quarters
Semis
Final
Semis
Quarters
Game 49
Sat. June 28
11pm
Round of 16
Game 51
Sun. June 29
11pm
1 A VS 2 B
Game 57
Sat. July 5
3am
Game 59
Sun. July 6
3am
1 B VS 2 A
Game 50
Sun. June 29
3am
W.49 VS W.50
W.51 VS W.52
Game 52
Mon. June 30
3am
1 C VS 2 D
Game 61
Wed. July 9
3am
W.57 VS W.58
Game 53
Mon. June 30
11pm
1 E VS 2 F
Game 58
Fri. July 4
11pm
Game 54
Tue. July 1
3am
W.53 VS W.54
1 D VS 2 C
Game 62
Th u. July 10
3am
Game 64
Mon. July 14
3am
W.59 VS W.60
W.61 VS W.62
Game 55
Tue. July 1
11pm
Game 60
Sun. July 5
11pm
1 F VS 2 E
W.55 VS W.56
Game 56
Wed. July 2
3am
Game 63
Sun. July 13
3am
1 G VS 2 H
1 H VS 2 G
L.61 VS L.62
Daragh H alpin
Debajit Banerjee
India
Advertising Executive
Which World Cup?
Ireland
Puku Caf & Sports Bar
Its got to be Bosnia and
Herzegovina. Theyll have 22
players on the field while all
the other countries will only
have 11.
Wh ere to Watch th e Games
hen it comes to the actual event,

we have no idea who will be
showing all the matches. After all,
who wants to watch England play
out a bore scoreless draw with Italy at 5am?
But here is our guess. Some of these
venues have confirmed with an almighty
yes. Some of them have, well, not

answered our calls.
H o Ch i Minh City
Game On; The Orient; Phattys Bar;

Spotted Cow; Drunken Duck; Voodoo Bar
& Lounge
In H anoi
Puku Caf & Sports Bar; Finnegans Irish

Pub; JJs Sports Bar; House of Son Tinh;
Polite Pub; Jaspas
History
THE VILLAGE
Nha Xa
Silk and colonial houses. Nha Xa in Ha Nam is as unique as it is charming.

Words by Hoa Le. Photos by Julie Vola
here are two things you will find in

Nha Xa in Ha Nam Province that you
wont find in neighbouring villages
in the Red River Delta. The first is
obvious as you enter the village. Its the
repetitive sound of old table looms working
away in almost all the houses of the village.
Sometimes this heartbeat-like noise feels very
close; sometimes it feels far away. Altogether
it creates a swirling, captivating effect that
once you leave the village, you wont hear
elsewhere. Locals say that this is the only
village in the area where people weave silk to
earn a living. For well over two centuries, this
has been the main income source in Nha Xa.
The second thing Nha Xa has to offer is
something you will need to take time to
discover. Hidden in the middle of the now

many modern and tall concrete houses are
old, beautiful, colonial era houses. These
hundred-year-old structures were built by
descendants of the villagers who live in Nha
Xa today.
Despite being covered with black moss
and sporting a balcony in disrepair, Tieps
house, built in 1930 by his grandfather, a silk
merchant, has defied not only time but war
and the harshness of the climate. The twostorey house has a flat roof with a swan-neck
pediment on the top, a balustrade, rusticated
pilasters and symmetrical architecture
decorated with low relief garlands. It looks
similar to many houses built in 1930s
Hanoi, except that its in the countryside
surrounding the house are banana plants, a

big longan tree in the front yard and a pond.
A Wealthy Past
Taking out the original architectural plans of
the house, Tiep explains how the building
came to shape.
First, my grandfather went to an
architectural workshop in Nam Dinh [a major
city nearby the village]. There, he was shown
many drawings of houses, all with French
colonial designs this was the choice of
the time. Then he picked the style that he
liked. Someone copied the drawing using a
transparent piece of tracing paper. After that
he brought workers home and had them
build the house as in the design.
The aged piece of tracing paper has a

drawing of the houses front faade, the ratios
and a cross section. In the bottom are written
some words in French Nam Dinh City, Jan.
7, 1930.
According to Tiep, his grandfather was a
diligent merchant who travelled everywhere
selling silk products most of them made
by his grandmother and other relatives at
home. When asked if his house was among
the wealthiest in the village, the 67-year-old
shakes his head many other families in the
village became wealthy from trading silk.
As we walk around the village and spot
many beautiful old French-style houses, we
know that he isnt just being modest.
Village legend goes that during the
Tran dynasty, a very talented general
Tran Khanh Du discovered a piece of
prosperous land on the banks of the Red
River. This is now Nha Xa Village. He thought
it would be a great place to grow mulberry
and so taught the native residents there to
raise silkworms and feed them with mulberry
leaves to eventually make silk. Later the
villagers learned to weave. Some of the smart
people picked up the technique quickly and

started travelling from north to south to sell
silk. This enabled them to both earn and save
money, and enjoy a good quality of life.
Todays owner of another French colonial
house 78-year-old Oa tells us that her
grandfather also went to Saigon to sell silk
goods. He only came home once a year.
He worked very hard and didnt come
home often. Only during Tet, she recalls.
Silk was as precious as gold and he was able
to save money to send home.
According to Oa, her house was built by a
French architect hired by her grandfather in
1939.
Keeping the Legacy

Each colonial house in the village comes
with a story, not of just how it was built, but
how it survived through both the French
and American wars.
According to Oa, during the French War,
many houses were burnt down by foreign
troops. It is a mystery that her house wasnt
one of them.
All of my family evacuated before they
came to the village, she recalls. When

I came back in 1954 it was still there
although all the furniture had been taken
away and the house was completely
empty.
In Tieps case, the family didnt evacuate
but stayed the whole time in the village.
But in order to keep the house from being
burnt or destroyed by military troops, his
grandparents had an idea. They took apart
all the doors in the house and threw them
into the pond in the front yard. As the
doors were all made from wood, they sunk
quickly in the water, says Tiep. When
the soldiers came, they saw a house with
no doors. This meant we were not hiding
anything inside. So they just left.
Today both Oa and Tieps children and
grandchildren weave silk and trade silk
products. Many have now built their own
houses new, modern houses nearby
the old ones. Some have even travelled to
Thailand, Laos or Cambodia to look for
new markets. Despite all the years that have
gone by, the sound of the weaving looms in
Nha Xa has never stopped.
LEISURE
I
H2H: Measuring
the Gains
CYCLING FOR CHARITY
Cycling from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City is more

than a physical journey, but eventually the bodies
of the 19 riders on this years H2H Charity Ride began
to tell their stories, in ways both humorous and tragic.
Words by Ed Weinberg. Photos by David Harris
and Francis Xavier
t started as a joke, with a rider from last

years H2H Charity Ride describing
her thighs transitioning from crosscountry class to slappy, fat things. Id
walk into a room and youd just hear them
making this thick sound, Emma said / I
paraphrased. They blew up to twice their
size with six hours of cycling a day, then
just turned to pudding.
Inspired by easy metaphors, Word decided
to do some before-and-after measures of this
years riders, with a highly unscientific yet
hilarious method.
Afterwards we met up with trip leader
and leading thigh-girth burner, to the tune
of 3cm Andrea Towne, to talk about the
2,000km H2H covered between Hanoi and
Ho Chi Minh City, and the emotional truths
behind their legs of steel. And then the story
got less silly, and we got into that too.
Whos the Firmest?

I hate to say Paul [Cordier], Andrea
says. But Pauls really in shape for all of this
stuff. Danny Walsh had really good calves.
A ride like this is a feat of strength and

willpower, but its also a month-long trip around
Vietnam with your new best friends. Not all of
that added girth is muscle
He has a small frame, but really good calves.
Collette [Auger]? Really nice calves.
I dont know what the measurements
are, if peoples legs got bigger. But we were
standing around touching peoples bums
and seeing whos the most firm.
A ride like this is a feat of strength and
willpower, but its also a month-long trip
around Vietnam with your new best friends.
Not all of that added girth is muscle.
A lot of people gained weight last year,
Andrea says. And that was kind of my goal
this year, not to gain weight. A lot of the food
on the ride people arent sensible when
they just eat a ton of carbs... youre hungry
[after a days ride] so you eat that.
I tried to have a diet of vegetables post
any ride if I had any carbs in the morning,
so that helped me not gain weight and
this year it seemed like most of the riders
stayed the same [weight]. Its bizarre, I dont
understand it. We drank a little more than
last year.
It was like that through the first four
days of the ride, pretty much like last
years edition. And, with people well on
their way to cartoonishly sculpted thighs,
tragedy struck and almost derailed the

whole endeavour.
The Long Cut

The road from Tin Gia to Do Luong isnt
the best. Its narrow and gravel-strewn, and
too far off the coast for the sea breeze to cut
through the unremitting heat. And it was the
scene of the low point of the 2014 H2H Ride.
Andrea was in the front of the pack when
she got the phone call a truck had hit a
rider. She doubled back to see Becky Chmiel
on the ground, and blood everywhere.
Its really hard for me to put together,
Andrea says. I saw the wound, and basically
from her ankle to mid-calf, all I saw was bone.
The flesh was ripped off and her calf was
hanging off... it looked like a knife serrated it off.
I think the tire grabbed her leg and like

pulled her somehow... According to her, the
truck ran over her ankle and then had to
back up over it to get off of it.
Becky, Andrea and a few others first went
to a smaller hospital, then to the provincial
hospital, which couldnt help either. They took
an ambulance ride up to Hanoi, while the rest
of the crew waited in the small seaside town
it had started the day in. It was a long, solemn
two days, waiting for a phone call.
They called it purgatory, Andrea says.
When they were waiting for us in Hanoi,
they were in purgatory. It was an abandoned
beach town, a resort beach town with
nobody there. And it was cloudy and rainy,
and they had to wait for us and wait for an
answer.
When Becky finally stabilised even
getting on a stationary bicycle in her Hanoi
hospitals exercise room Andrea finally
made that call, after the Tan Gia contingent
had made up their minds to continue on.
They worked together so well and got
everything done and were so happy for that
phone call. Becky was happy they were
going on as well.
Oh, it felt so good to be reunited,
Andrea recalls. It felt like forever.
Downhill from There

It took about a week, Andrea says. Each
truck horn felt like a knife in my back. It
was so scary, hearing the sounds of trucks,
hearing them thump by you.

The biggest challenge on a ride like this
isnt the ride itself its how your mind
handles the long days, the hot sun, not
thinking about the 50km between you and
the bed you will sleep in. Beckys ordeal
helped with that, immensely.
How it impacted our team, Andrea
says, was that no one was having as bad
a day as Becky was. When you think of
physical issues, like a really long mountain
or a really hot day, it kind of puts it into
perspective.
Towards the end of the ride, the riders
perspectives shifted. They began to feel less
challenged and more confident in taking on
whatever the day would bring.
You definitely get stronger cycling every
day, Andrea says. Thats one physical
thing that you definitely notice. You know,
by the end of the ride were like, Oh, 80k?
Piece of piss.
You surprise yourself with how far you
can go, or how high you can climb.
And these rock-hard thighs and calves?
Andrea wants to keep them toned. I have
to keep running and doing triathlons if I want
to maintain them. I have to do something or
theyre just going to fade away!
H2H Charity Ride runs yearly in April.
This year, they raised an unfinalised tally
of VND720 million for Saigon Children's
Charity. For more information, go to
h2hcharityride.org
A Before and After Guide to the Thighs

and Calves of the H2H Cyclists
Rider
[Before] Thighs/Calves
[After] Thighs/Calves
Caitlin Boylan
Paul Cordier
Danny McCance
Andrew Onishi
Alex Spalding
Matt Taylor
Andrea Towne
48cm / 33cm
48cm / 37cm
55cm / 37cm
48cm / 35cm
52cm / 33cm
54cm / 38cm
54cm / 38cm
51.5cm / 33.5cm
55cm / 46cm
57cm / 37.5cm
55.5cm / 37cm
51cm / 33cm
55cm / 38.5cm
51cm / 39cm
Arts
ARTS
The New
Workroom Four
Since the closure of Zone 9, the arts collective Workroom Four has been
searching for a new space. Now it has one, with views to match.
Words by Katie Jacobs. Photos by David Harris
unlight is streaming through the

whitewashed room as five people
huddle around worktables; swaths
of fabric, computers and a large
cookie jar scattered between them. Ive
arrived at the new Workroom Four studios
just in time to experience the Wednesday
afternoon screen printing class led by Claire
Driscoll, one of the four founders of the
arts-based collective. Screen printing, one
of the many creative classes on offer at the
studio, is part talent and creativity and part
patience.
There are lots of steps, says Claire. But
by the end of the workshop the students will
be able to create their own fabric designs.
Since moving to their new digs in early
May, business at Workroom Four has never
been better. Offering a number of arts
classes, the space also rents out studios.
Some people use the skills for their
career, some to express themselves creatively
and others are just bored and want to try
something new, says Claire. One of the
students, a freelance interior designer, hopes
screen printing will improve her work. I
have trouble finding interesting fabrics,
explains Mileydy. So Ive enrolled in this
class to learn how to make my own.
The Concept
The Workroom Four seed was planted
when Claires partner, graphic designer and
international school teacher Dorian Gibb,
decided he needed a studio space of his
own. As the search commenced, Claire and
Dorian quickly discovered that they werent
the only ones in the market for a studio. So
when the opportunity came to move into a
large space in the new nightlife, fashion, art
and culture hub of Zone 9, they jumped at
the chance.
By opening day in June 2013, Workroom

Four had evolved into a collaborative
project of like-minded creatives, establishing
private work studios and classroom space
for workshops as well as a central gallery to
host exhibitions.
The space at Zone 9 really dictated the
concept, says Claire. We didnt plan for
Workroom Four. It just developed that way.
But with the closing of Zone 9 late last
year, the Workroom Four partners were
forced to find a new home for their growing
business concept which successfully
balanced their own work and the creative
workshops.
Determined to keep the project alive, the
team continued to work and teach from
home while they went in search of a new
space. They also temporarily moved into
shared quarters at Module 7 on Tay Ho. We
wanted to keep going, says Claire. The
classes in particular were growing so quickly
that we didnt want to stop.
Today, the studios in Workroom Four are
the creative home of nine people who work
on projects from architecture and furniture
design to media and textiles. The new
location is entirely different from the Zone 9
space. Located just off An Duong Vuong in
Tay Ho, the space sits in a sun-filled 23rdfloor loft with panoramic views across the
neighbouring rooftops to the banks of the
Red River.
As the creative workshops become
increasingly popular and new contributors
offer their services, the class schedule
continues to change and expand. In addition
to the Workroom Four residents, five other
professionals contribute to the six-week
workshops in areas such as pattern making,
life drawing, photography and street art.
Michaela, who previously took a fashion
design course led by Claire, is now learning

screen printing with the hope of designing
her own fabric. My goal is to eliminate Zara
and H&M from my wardrobe, she says.
The Future
As the Workroom Four team settles into
its new home, aspirations for the future
continue to mount. Although partners
continue to work on individual design and
education projects, joint plans for future
workshops and exhibitions are also taking
shape. One of the main goals is to offer more
classes in Vietnamese.
Accessibility is important, explains
Claire. Although the classes are evenly
split between Vietnamese and foreign
students, were hoping to be completely
dual language by September, with every
class taught in both Vietnamese and
English. Aiding this effort is the offer of
complimentary classes to those willing to
translate while participating in workshops.
The team also hopes to offer scholarships to
talented and enthusiastic artists who cant
afford the classes.
Later this year, Workroom Four will host
its second Open Exhibition, a display of
work from a selection of professional and
amateur artists. Anyone is invited to submit
work, with the Workroom team selecting
pieces to be displayed at the exhibition.
We like meeting and working with a
variety of people, says Claire. In the end,
Workroom Four is about making nice things
in a nice space with people you like to be
with.
For more information go to workroomfour.
com or email workrmfour@gmail.com. To check
out the space yourself head to Packexim Building
Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong
Vuong, Tay Ho, Hanoi
Food & drink
MYSTERY DINER HANOI
A La Folie
French cuisine adapted to the Vietnamese climate? Our undercover

reporter heads down to A La Folie to see if this recently opened French
restaurant makes the cut. Photos by Julie Vola
win cabbage leaves

camouflage a hearty pork
filling, the two rolls lying
side by side on a bed of
crunchy hoa thien ly buds. The
plating is elegant without being
too calculated: thick swipes of
black olive sauce, a careful tower of
mashed sweet potato. Chou farci isnt
the kind of dish you see every day
in Hanoi, but scraping the last drops
of sauce from the plate, you might
wish it appeared more frequently.
A la folie refers to a mad passion,
and that phrase seems to have
informed the restaurants enthusiastic
approach to modern French cuisine.
Dishes that you might know as heavy
and creamy are given a lighter, modern
spin that fits Vietnams tropical
climate, including the addition of local
ingredients. Many of the dishes, like
the chou farci, are improvised riffs on
these traditional recipes.
Easygoing
Owned by Vietnamese chef Duy Duc
Luy and his friend Jean Sebastien
Dang, as well as Stan Boissau, the man
behind Chim Sao, which is located
next door, just as at Chim Sao, the
emphasis is on offering food thats
both affordable and authentic. But
where Chim Sao serves up Vietnamese
dishes, A La Folie takes on French fare,
offering a VND250,000, three-course
set menu thats an ideal way to get a

sense of the restaurants style.
The downstairs room has a high
communal table, ideal for sharing a
charcuterie plate or glass of wine from
the thorough selection, which offers a
good idea of the range of French wines
at reasonable prices. Upstairs theres
a more formal sit-down space ideal
for a cool lunch or relaxing dinner.
Glancing out the window offers an
insiders view into the back side of
this quiet alley: low tiled rooftops,
wooden shutters cracked open to let in
any potential breeze. The room has a
comfortable, easygoing vibe with thick
tables, aged plank floors and linen
settings in rustic earth tones, although
the crinkly bouquets of fake flowers
at each table clash with the down-toearth decor.
On this hot afternoon, grilled
capsicum, eggplant and tomato confit
salad make an ideal starter. Fresh
greens came garnished with grilled
vegetables, dressed in a snappy
mustard vinaigrette although half
as much dressing would certainly
have been enough. At least the surplus
vinaigrette that pooled uncomfortably
on lettuce leaves made a decent dip
for thick slices of baguette. Purchased
from a Vietnamese bakery that the
restaurant has an exclusive agreement
with, its one of the best in Hanoi, with
a crackly crust and delicate interior.
Light and Heavy

As a main course, I opt for that chou
farci, a modern update to a hearty
French classic. Traditionally, this
is an autumn dish, with seasonal
harvest ingredients like cabbage,
pear and sweet potato signaling
that cold weather is nearly here.
But the green buds give it a snappy
lightness.
While theres also an a la carte
menu with dishes like rack of lamb,
steak and foie gras, the set menu
is the best way to get a sampling
of what the restaurant has to offer.
Dishes are balanced, with lighter
starters moving to heavier entrees.
Portions are well-calculated, so
diners leave satisfied but not stuffed.
The service is good, although the
waiting staff are still a bit timid. One
edges into the room, eying my plate,
then progresses gradually closer
until finally leaning over to whisper,
Excuse me...are you finished?
But their timing is impeccable.
No sooner is my main course dish
removed than a generous wedge of
apple tart is set before me, its thick
bed of crust topped with solid layers
of apple and custard. Folie literally
means madness. Maybe thats what
affects me between bites of the tart.
I consider coming back for dinner.
A la Folie is at 63 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba
Trung, Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3976 1667
THE VERDICT
14
FOOD
11
SERVICE
12
DCOR
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
STREET SNACKER HANOI
Che Thai
Huyen Tran checks out the only eatery in the capital selling authentic
Thai-style sweet soup. Photos by Teresa Welleans
s the weather defines our

appetite, summer could be called
the season of drinking, rather
than eating. This explains why
during the summer months, Hanoi is so
rich in different types of drinks. From nuoc
mia or sugar cane juice to tra da, tra chanh
or iced tea, lemon tea and che or sweet
soup, these drinks can be seen on almost
every street in the capital.
Of the summer drinks, my favourite
is che. Personally, I dont think the word
soup expresses the correct meaning of this
concoction. Che is certainly not an appetizer
and its neither savoury nor condensed
its an any-time-of-the-day drink. You can
give yourself a treat in the morning, also a
dessert after lunch, or afternoon tea, even for
supper in the late evening while wandering
around the Old Quarter.
Traditional sweet soups include black
bean, green peas or lotus seeds with the
scented smell of jasmine. But in recent years,
imported versions are becoming popular.
Besides Singaporean bobo-chacha, and
various versions from Malaysia or Hong
Kong, Thailand sweet soup, known as che
Thai, has garnered a following. Available at
eateries on Doi Can, Giang Vo, Hang Than
and in Nam Dong Market, it is however
only at the eatery on Kim Ma where diners
can enjoy an authentic Thailand-like

experience.
A Homage to Thailand
Located down a small alley, Che Thai Lan is
easily recognisable thanks to its Thai script
signage. Thai-styled silver bowls and pots
with typical elephant patterns are displayed
in a glass cabinet in the interior, and the shop
owner comes from a Vietnamese family that
used to live in Thailand.
The eatery offers two signature dishes,
che Thai and kem xoi or sticky rice with icecream, and sometimes, Thailands layer cake.
Their che is also totally different from that
of other shops. While elsewhere sells Thai
sweet soup with green thin-shaped pieces,
this eatery offers white and green pieces in
a variety of shapes some even look like
insects. Another special element is the fresh
pieces of coconut within the soup. Instead
of a dense soup, the light broth is earthy,
flavoury and tender, and is made 100 percent
from coconut juice.
The secret in delicious che Thai lies in
the fresh coconut juice, says the owner.
Our che Thai is made from coconut
without any additives or milk. You can
distinguish fresh and authentic coconut
soup from fake versions after drinking it
you dont feel thirsty.
The other signature dish, kem xoi, is served

up in a small bowl with green sticky rice at
the bottom and a scoop of white coconut icecream topped with shining pieces of coconut.
The green of the rice comes from pineapple
leaf extract making it gently scented and
very soft. The coconut is also dry and crispy,
giving the dish a nice range of textures.
Few diners can imagine how many steps
it takes to make these dishes, continues the
owner. Every day we make four batches of
kem xoi and che Thai. Due to the hot weather,
these sweet dishes easily become sour, so we
only make a limited quantity for each batch.
She adds: Che Thai has been well-known
in Hanoi around 20 years, but we started this
shop 29 years ago when hardly anyone in
Vietnam owned a Thai soup shop. Now che
Thai seems to be everywhere. But our che is
different to elsewhere. And I dont want to
change. It makes us stand out. Its also our
own memory of our Thailand our second
homeland after Vietnam.
Che Thai and kem xoi costs VND15,000
a bowl. The eatery opens at 10am and closes
around 10pm at night. Go on to Kim Ma and
stop at the junction between Kim Ma and
Tran Huy Lieu. Turn right onto the small alley
opposite Hanoi Toserco building at 273 Kim Ma
and stop at the end of the alley. The eatery is a
perfect escape at sunset
Food & drink
STREET SNACKER PHAN RANG
Cham Cuisine
Champa, the empire formerly covering Central Vietnam,
is long gone. But the Cham people arent. In search of Cham
cuisine, Ed Weinberg heads to a village outside of Phan Rang
and samples 12 courses of the real thing
n Phan Rang and tasked with writing a

Street Snacker on Cham cuisine, I ask our
host a 30-year-old Cham community
organiser and sometime tour guide
named Inra Jaka whether there are any
good Cham restaurants in the city.
No, he tells me, there are no Cham
restaurants at all. Thats one of the problems
with publicising the community, he laments.
Im skeptical I know of one Cham
restaurant in Ho Chi Minh Citys Binh
Thanh District, which just opened its doors
last month. When I point to it as evidence
that theres a Cham restaurant somewhere he
says, No, I dont think so.
Jaka is used to provoking confused
frowns in novices, and I dont disappoint
him. (Later he explains: There are some
in Ho Chi Minh City but theyre mostly for
Malay people. Cham and Malay cuisines are
quite similar. So you may call it Cham, but
its not what were doing here.) He waits
a beat, then continues: There is a saying in
Cham. The wise will eat the liquid, the fool
will eat the meat.
After giving us a moment to absorb
his cryptic words, Jaka provides us his
spin. A host will always say hes already
eaten when he goes around the table to
serve his guests, otherwise they wont feel
comfortable eating. But its the host that gets
more out of the meal.
Later in the trip, with pottery villages
and ancient hilltop temples behind us, I
get a chance to sample the liquid of Cham
cuisine a 12-course meal, ladled into 30
waiting bowls.
Cheers in Cham
On the patio, three hours after the first
pigeons are slaughtered and plucked clean,
we unleash our first toast clinking glasses
of beer and tamarind juice to a Chamlanguage count of tha, dwa, klow mu!
In front of us lie 11 courses, all served at
the same time. Theres shrimp salad, broken
rice, mashed tamarind, fried pigeon, pigeon
porridge, sour soup with pigeon, sour soup

with chicken, sour soup with dried fish,
fried corn, slow-cooked fish with egg and
minced dried fish. Theres an emphasis on
tamarind and different herbs are employed
to those found commonly in Vietnamese
cuisine. Theyre fresher, more bitter. After
the meal we receive some green bean che,
but that doesnt come for a long time.
The diners in my radius seem to gravitate
towards the shrimp salad for starters,
garnished with a lush spread of peanuts and
a herbaceous leaf called la chum ruot. Its fruit
is used in Vietnamese cuisine but not the
leaf, and it lends the tangy mix of tamarind
and shrimp an earthy grounding.
The slow-cooked fish has a chopped liverlike consistency, and is heavily salted. On
its slow, tingly roll down my tongue the salt
gives way to chilli, and the lingering burn is
clean, almost light.
The vegetable dish includes herbs that
are unusual by Vietnamese standards;
banana flowers, la chum ruot and young
tamarind leaves. Everything is intended
to match specific dishes and aid digestion.
Jaka says, All of Cham cooking focuses on
healthy digestion.
The pigeons aka squab are not the
overfed scavengers of western cities, but
small birds whose meat has been lightly
fried and well-salted. On one dish they
provide supple, juicy morsels on their own;
in another they mix in with a light but
glutinous porridge, coming together under
a liberal shake of pepper. Theyre both
delicate and moreish. As I take a second
helping I realise that I like pigeon a lot.
Who knew?
Meet Our Hosts

As the meal winds down, we go around the
circle to introduce ourselves.
Jaka translates for those who dont speak
English, and sometimes adds in bits of his
own, as he does with Cam Ry, the first to
be introduced. Cam Ry, Jaka tells us, was
one of the young men who rejected their

Cham identity, assimilating into Vietnamese
culture because he didnt know enough to
be proud of his roots. When he met Jaka,
he learned things he could connect to
and be proud of. Now his love of cooking
and Cham culture have found a fulfilling
intersection.
The rest of our hosts are teachers, tourism
pros and university graduates in interesting
disciplines, all from the surrounding
villages. A few are jobless or not working
in something theyre passionate about, but
they love to travel.
And then there is Ly: My name is Ly, Im
from this village, and when Im full I like
to sleep.
Dinner Plans
These sporadic meals are part of a larger
plan, one that will hopefully accomplish
more than just full bellies. We are doing
this, Jaka says, because we want to know
the food we are cooking. We want to raise
awareness.
They switch villages every meal, and in
every meal a different household cooks. As
they cover more ground, more interested
Cham youth follow along, actively
participating in a culture that for many
they never knew.
Their next destination is a pottery village,
and the dishes will be claypot dishes
slow-cooked fish, banh beo. This approach
is characteristic of the Cham, and is the
same approach they have towards their
environment, as much as deforestation has
changed it.
The rain is coming, Jaka says in
talking about the next meal. Some of the
ingredients here are always available, some
depend on the season. We eat the seasons.
To participate in Cham cuisine and other
culture-intensive experiences in the Phan Rang
area, go to jakatours.com. Alternatively, call
Inra Jaka on 0919 174987 or email inrajaka@
gmail.com
WAITING FOR
THEIR SHIP
Facing the water, it always seems life is full of possibility. The water moves,
the breeze blows. Detached slabs of paddy field loll on the current,
sent from another world.
On the edge of this possibility waits a certain type of person, chilled by the breeze
but unmoving, mesmerised by the flow of the river. One day shell take action,
but today is not that day.

Modelling by Linh Phan and Thuy
Clothing by RB&K
Accessories by Moniko Vietnam
Location The Boat House, Ho Chi Minh City
Monthierry Dress: VND2.5 million |

Moniko Green/Gold Sakua Obi Clutch: VND2.7 milion
Mutty Dress: VND3.7 million |

Moniko Classic Kikkou Obi
Clutch: VND2.7 milion
Left Model: Madrey Shirt: VND1.6 million | Malea Pants: VND2.3 million | Moniko Bold Nami Obi Clutch: VND2.7 milion
Right Model: Medhi Shirt: VND1.6 million | Macrea Shorts: VND1.6 million
Left
Maudrey Top: VND1.6 million |
Monloic Shorts: VND1.4 million
Right
Mary Top: VND1.6 million |
Maemily Pants: VND1.6 million
About RB&K
RB&K was created in 2014 by Rebecca Bargas. The brand came about as
a meeting between cutting edge Asian and traditional European style.
It endeavours to capture the pleasure, sweetness and elegance of womens
everyday lives.
Find RB&K at rbkandco.com and their multibrand shop
(81 Xuan Thuy, Q2, HCMC)
Find Moniko at moniko.biz and Gaya
(1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, HCMC)
travel
DAY TRIPPER
Climbing Black
Virgin Mountain
Matt Bender sets out to climb the tallest mountain
in southern Vietnam, and finds just as much
wonder on the way. Photos by Glen Riley
he tallest mountain in southern

Vietnam isnt really a mountain at
all, but a 986m dead volcano in Tay
Ninh. If you do a Google search
for 'Black Virgin Mountain' (Nui Ba Den)
youll get a history lesson on the female
monk who ran away from an arranged
marriage and disappeared although
they supposedly later found a section
of her leg in a stone cavern for whom
the volcano is named and a bunch of stuff
about its military significance during the
American War.
The elevation offered by a volcanic cone
rising up from the otherwise flat Mekong
Delta made it a prized position in wartime,
Photo by Matt Bender
Despite the sounds of V-pop and sirens floating up from the ruckus
below this really is a beautiful hike, with lots of hidden caverns,
songbirds and the occasional wild monkey hooting in the distance
and the place was constantly fought over
changing hands between US troops and the
Viet Cong as if it were a chip in a card game.
When you drive south and find yourself
standing at the foot of the mountain youll
find farmers squatting next to big ziggurats
of custard apples, street hawkers selling
meats on sticks, thick banh canh noodles
(a speciality of the province), lots of dusty
unpaved roads and the locals calling it Ba
Den (Black Virgin) Ba Den, Ba Den like
a mantra, as if the word nui (mountain) is
made irrelevant by the imposing shadow of
it hanging over the valley.
In actuality there is no clear trail that
people hike to the summit. You can push and
make your own path across the formidable
boulders, red ants and biting beetles. You
can navigate around vegetation thatd make
you think you were in Honey, I Shrunk the
Kids. My girlfriend and I took a three-day
trip to the Black Virgin Mountain over Tet to
attempt all of these things. If this intro didnt
hook you in and youre not going to read
any further, then please remember this: dont
believe everything you read on peoples
travel blogs. And certainly dont visit Black
Virgin Mountain during Tet.
Day 1: Day of Derision

A tent city of food stands and parking
areas sprouts up around the entrance to
the gondola ride. Further down is the main
entrance peppered with more parking
areas, more food and plastic toy hawkers,
a big display for some kind of mountaingrown rejuvenating pine oil, paved roads
rolling through more food and plastic toy
stands, confused-looking monkeys in tiny
cages, people sprawled out on blankets and
trash everywhere. No joke there are some
areas where you can literally wade ankledeep in plastic bags and paper wrappers.
The blog Id read said that to climb the
bouldered slopes you need to climb to the
top of the steps, pass the temple and then
jump the fence. This is false. The 500-plus
steps to the top are just past the gondola
ride and lined with the same hawker stalls,
the same garbage strewn over every inch of
ground.
The ground litter (and litterbugs) were
astonishingly unapologetic to the
point where youd think that littering was
secretly encouraged. Sights like boys racing
empty Coca-Cola cans down the rocky
slopes didnt even wrinkle a brow on this
holy mountain. The whole place seemed
less like a temple and more like a Buddhistthemed carnival where the carnies and
barkers had taken over. All that was lacking
were the ball-toss and Skee-Ball machines.
At the top was the main pagoda and a
bunch of signs telling you not to jump the
fence. After jumping the fence anyway
we were stopped by a steep ravine that
blocked access to the rest of the mountain.
Girlfriend took my hand and said, Lets
go.
The high point of Day 1 was taking
the newly-installed Speed Coaster just
think of a bobsled with a hand brake and
security guys blowing their whistles at you
the whole way down for a well-spent
VND80,000 to the bottom, getting buzzed
on sweet 333 and finally stumbling around
to the well-hidden back entrance of the park
from where real rock-hopping is actually
possible. We scurried up about 400m as
daylight began to fade then made a pact to
get more beer, pass out early and come back
early the next morning for a second ascent.
Day 2: The Scramble

The back entrance of the park is behind
the car park, well before the main gate
and essentially to the left if youre walking
down the main thoroughfare towards the
entrance. Pay VND12,000 at the ticket
booth and hand your ticket to the security
guards who might possibly have the easiest
security gig in the country.
At 50m in youll see some log cabins
with mango trees behind them and a clear
path up the bouldered slope of Nui Ba Den.
While it starts out easy, the climb quickly
turns into a Class 3 scramble with some
small bits of jungle on the rocks that require
crab-walking and/or crawling through.
Despite the sounds of V-pop and
sirens floating up from the ruckus below
this really is a beautiful hike, with lots
of hidden caverns, songbirds and the
occasional wild monkey hooting in the
distance. Build plenty of cairns (markers)
along the way as youll be slipping
and twisting through caves and across
big boulders, which can make a trail
misleading when it comes time to head
down.
Looking down from the highest point
at the festival-goers and pumpkin fields
stretched out like peppercorn men tossed
out across the greenest of tapestries, we
realise we couldnt have made it to that
point sans machete. The highway wed
taken ran one way and the AH-1 we would
take back ran the other their point of
convergence just out of sight.
Later that night found us back in Saigon
at The Observatory, where I drank three
beers, crossed my socks and tried to picture
how small this little dot of a city would
look from above.
travel
INTERNATIONAL
When in Sri Lanka

One of the few destinations in the region that has a little something for everyone,
Sri Lanka is more than tropical beaches, ancient ruins and jungle. Brandon Ingram
looks at another, more artistic side to The Pearl of the Indian Ocean
Sri Lankan holiday is usually

planned around its warm beaches,
jungles crawling with leopards
and mountains shrouded in
myth. The islands historical sites, ancient
architecture and cultural mishmash have
been at the core of its magnetic pull
on tourism for decades, both pre and
post-war.
Today, however, in the aftermath of years
of turmoil, a new culture has emerged,
setting the stage for artistic expression
through a myriad of talents. The city of

Colombo is buzzing with events hosting
performers of all genres, lifestyles of all
natures and creativity that is arguably some
of the best in South Asia.
The paradise island is still, no doubt,
the home of many a wonder to behold. But
its people (the youth in particular) have
become more than facilitators of a brand of
hospitality. Here are five experiences you
must seek out when planning your next trip
to Sri Lanka
Photo by Ruvin de Silva
Listen to the Music of Thriloka

facebook.com/thriloka
ri Lankan folk music was born on the

lips of men and women who worked the
paddy fields during harvest. They created
the melodies, they made up the words and
they sang the tunes that would later become
categorically known as Jana Kavi. The fiveman band Thriloka uses these melodious roots
as the inspiration to their music. Thriloka
literally means three worlds (and none of
them resemble the one we live in).
These boys paint the Sri Lankan spirit in
sounds they create from almost anything they
can get their hands on: clay vessels, brass
ornaments, sand paper, sticks and stones
anything. Their commercial performances
see them complementing each other on more
established instruments. But even then, like
the reapers of the harvest in the years gone by,
they compose original pieces on the spot that
neither they nor their listeners will recount
when the music stops playing. They are a
modern take on the sons of the soil and their
music, a representation of the progressive
prayers of thanks to the harvest gods. They
spend most of their time at Music Matters
(an experimental music school in Colombo)
teaching, jamming and laughing.
Watch a Mind Adventures Theatre

Company Production
facebook.com/mindadventures
heatre in Sri Lanka dates back to

the days of old when ritual and
custom were the only known sources
of inspiration for dramatisation. The
superstitions of the Sinahalese people
played a huge role in developing
storylines and plots. And even though
colonisation brought with it the western
spotlight, the stage was still very much
speaking the native language.
In the past five decades or so things
have changed rapidly for English theatre
in Colombo. The city boasts over 10 theatre
companies that flourish the performance
boards, across the year, featuring works
that are both original and renowned. One of
them Mind Adventures has recently
begun devoting less time to the spectacle

of dramatic entertainment and more time
starting a two-way dialogue on social and
sexual politics that are very much local.
A signature feature of the company is their
choice of venue for the social commentary
they set in motion. Mind Adventures has
performed inside a bathtub on a rooftop
nightclub, on the lawn of the British Council
(where they attacked audience members
with water balloons), on a circular stage in
the backyard of a church with a banyan tree
growing out of the middle of it and most
recently inside an abandoned hotel in the
heart of Colombo, burnt in the fires of 1983.
These thespians offer English theatregoers
the opportunity to revisit the history of the
land with fresh perspective, shedding light
on the roots of local theatre itself and using
the methods of devised and immersive
theatre to do it.
Go to a Bang Bang Party

facebook.com/bangbangsrilanka
he Sri Lankan youth revere partying for

the unspoken religion it is, and Bang
Bang Productions set up some of the most
remarkable stages to give it its due. A true
appreciation for the new age of electronic
music, the variety of sound it resonates, the
surrounding of acceptance it manifests and
the good vibration it permeates these
seem to be the ideas that are nourished at
a Bang Bang gig. To call it rave culture
would be doing it an injustice, though many
have seen fit to call it just that.
Each of the Bang Bang DJs plays their
Photo by Tavish Gunasena
own pleasure, music they enjoy dancing

to. And who are they? Young men and
women, friends and party people who
celebrate good music and are willing to
share it with anyone who wants to listen.
Some of them have even made a career out
of producing music and now promote their
work under international labels. Deep tech
house, progressive psychedelic, funk, dub,
techno, bwomp, wobble and glitch hop are
just some of the genres throbbing off the
speakers on a given night (or morning).
What makes these parties special is that
they dont happen every week. They come
around a few times a year, but when they
do, they do so in severe proportions.
Getting There
To get to Sri Lanka from Vietnam you
will need to travel via Kuala Lumpur,
Singapore or Bangkok. Sri Lankan
airlines fly from all three cities direct to
Colombo return flights from Bangkok
cost from VND5.5 million depending
on how early you book. Return flights
with AirAsia from Kuala Lumpur start at
VND4.5 million.
V ISAS
Unless youre from Singapore or

the Maldives, you will need a visa
to enter Sri Lanka. This needs to be
applied for online, lasts for 90 days
and costs between US$15 and US$30
(VND315,000 and VND630,000). Go to
eta.gov.lk to make your application.
C OSTS
US$1 = 130 Sri Lankan Rupee

Expect cost in general to be similar
to Vietnam. So, eating locally will cost
you around VND30,000 or VND40,000
a meal, while going for a main course
in a tourist restaurant will cost about
VND100,000 to VND120,000. Hotel
and guesthouse prices are also similar,
starting at VND120,000 a night and
heading upwards.
If youre going to splurge a little, then
expect a car and a driver to cost around
VND1,200,000 a day, although bus travel
remains cheap you can get from one
end of the island to the other for around
VND450,000.
Visit the Good Market

facebook.com/thegoodmarketcolombo
child looks amused at something

she just created using pink glitter
and glue. A young man wheels by on
his skateboard, waving at his friends as
he takes a sharp turn. A woman in one
stall tells the couple whove stopped
by to check out her goodies and have a
look inside her neighbours stall as well.
A young musician plays his guitar as
people gather round to listen to words
that are his own. This is the vibe of the
Good Market, and it happens every
Thursday in the capital of Sri Lanka
Sri Jayawardenapura Kotte and on

Saturdays at the Colombo Race Course.
The personalised stretch of stalls that pop
up on these two days are packed with
homemade foods, handmade jewellery
and machine-made chocolate milkshakes
that just hit the spot. The vendors have
become friends and they call out to each
other by name, offering a sweet here and a
cup of water there as they walk by.
The Good Market is an initiative to help
self-sustaining individuals market and sell
their products in an environment full of
likeminded people. The produce is organic
and the merchandise is made from scratch.
There is no competition here, merely a
similar approach to the results of diligence

and hard work. Its foundation rests on the
values of a green economy and encourages
its community to educate others on this way
of life and its many benefits.
Some of the stalls at the Good Market
include Jewelry by Manga a collection
of colourful accessories made of paper;
Sapling a range of bottled hummus with
no artificial colours or flavours, made for
vegans by a vegan; Sunaras Art a place
for kids to hang out and go wild with a
young friend who paints and colours with
them; and of course the Achcharu Kade
serving Sri Lankas favourite fast food: your
choice of fruit dusted in chilli.
Photo by Chirath Pushpika
Sri Lanka is still very much

about the temples of Kataragama,
the waterfalls of Nuwara Eliya,
the pilgrims climb to Adams Peak
[and] the rejuvenation of the Jaffna
peninsula... But theres more to the
story of the land and its being
told right now through its people
Stay at the Bludge House

facebook.com/thebludge
hen the city becomes too overwhelming

simply leave it behind and head on
down south. Thats also what some local
businesses do, especially the ones who are all
about the chilled-out life. A few years back,
The Bludge started off as a T-shirt company
in Colombo, with a brand ethos that revolves
around living the dream and making it count
for you whilst offering others an example of
how easy it is. Its co-founders started off by
giving up their day jobs and reminding Sri
Lankans everywhere that their island home
was made for enjoying life.
Their latest venture involves a holiday
home away from home, tucked away on the
greener side of Hikkaduwa, soon to become
a well-known secret for weary travelers with
heavy baggage on their minds. The Bludge
Photo by Natalie Soysa
House serves up a spiritual timeout for those

who seek to lose themselves completely or
find themselves once more.
A double room at the villa costs Rs. 1500
(VND243,000) and food is available on
request. A 10-minute tuktuk ride from this
quiet hideaway will take you to the beaches
of Hikkaduwa. Here you will find rotti shops
galore offering a host of sweet and savoury
delights that are set to melt on the tongue
after an invigorating swim. Snorkeling along
the reef, boating on the lagoon and surfing
when the waves curve up just right these
are just some of the lesser attractions you can
amuse yourself with outside the solitude of
this retreat. Inside, its all about you-time;
doing what you want, when you want to.
The Island Awaits

Sri Lanka is still very much about the temples
of Kataragama, the waterfalls of Nuwara
Eliya, the pilgrims climb to Adams Peak, the

rejuvenation of the Jaffna peninsula and all
the rest thats just waiting to be explored. But
theres more to the story of the land and its
being told right now through its people. Go
meet them.
Things to do in Sri Lanka

If youd rather go with the more standard
options when you visit Sri Lanka, here is a
list of places to go and things to do. This
is just the start the island has a wealth
of attractions to its name.
Visit the ruins of the ancient kingdoms
of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa
Climb the Sigiriya Rock Fortress
Go whitewater rafting in Kithulgala
Climb the Bambarakanda Mountain
and discover the secret Sri Lankan
Map-Shaped Pond
Go on a safari in the jungles of Yala
Escape to Unawatuna Bay on the
south coast or Arugam Bay along
the east coast
Journey through the tea estates of
Nuwara Eliya and Bandarawela
Enjoy club hopping in Colombo
Go snorkeling in Trincomalee
Go kite-surfing or whale and dolphin
watching in Kalpitiya
Take a walk inside Galle Fort
Go for elephant rides in Habarana
Visit the elephant sanctuary in
Minneriya
Trek through the majestic Singharaja
Rainforest
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AIRLINES
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AIR ASIA
DALAT / AROUND HANOI / HANOI - INTERNATIONAL / HANOI MID-RANGE / HANOI BUDGET /

HCMC - INTERNATIONAL / HCMC - DELUXE / HCMC - MID-RANGE / HCMC - BUDGET / HOI
AN & DANANG / HUE & LANG CO / NHA TRANG / PHAN THIET & MUI NE / PHONG NHA / PHU
QUOC / SAPA / VUNG TAU & HO TRAM / TRAVEL SERVICES HANOI / TRAVEL SERVICES ELSEWHERE
DALAT
ANA MANDARA VILLAS
$$$$
Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063)
3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE
$$$$
12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY
$$$
Tel: 0933 446542
bhayacruises.com
Experience breathtaking
tours of the serene Halong
Bay, aboard reproduction
wooden junks. Two or three
night trips with a wide range
of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.
CUC PHUONG
$
Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh
Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006
cucphuongtourism.com
DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL

172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
Located in central Dalat,
this is the perfect place for
budget travellers. Quiet,
newly refurbished with
beautiful mountain and city
views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and
snack bar in all rooms with
a downstairs coffee shop
and computers in the lobby
for guest use.
EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES,

HALONG BAY
$$$$
Tel: (04) 3935 1888
emeraude-cruises.com
Reproductions, of 19th
century paddle steamers,
trawl around Halong Bay
in colonial style. A classic
experience, complete with,
overnight accommodations
in impeccable cabins suites.
LA FERME DU COLVERT
$$
Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh,
Tel: 02183 825662
etoile-des-mers.com
LA VIE VU LINH
$
Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen
Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743
lavievulinh.com
DALAT TRAIN VILLA

Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 381 6365
dalattrainvilla.com
Located near the Dalat Train
Station, the Dalat Train Villa
is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.
In its grounds is a 1910
train carriage which has
been renovated into a bar
and cafe. Located within 10
minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.
MAI CHAU LODGE
$$$
Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh,
Tel: (0218) 386 8959
maichaulodge.com
NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY
$$
Ha Long Road, Bai Chay
Ward, Ha Long City, Quang
Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108
novotelhalong.com.vn
TRUNG CANG HOTEL
$
22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 2663
AROUND HANOI
BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER
HOTEL
$$$
KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong
Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031)
388 0888
pearlriverhotel.vn
TAM COC GARDEN RESORT

Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu,
Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249
2118
contact@tamcocgarden.
com
tamcocgarden.com
Surrounded by rice fields
and spectacular karsts,
Tam Coc Garden is a haven
of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury.
Spacious rooms with rustic
and chic dcor, a pool with
breathtaking views, a beau-
tiful garden, and panoramic

views over the fields and
mountains. The perfect place
to relax.
HANOI - INTERNATIONAL
CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL
$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 6270 6688
crowneplazawesthanoi.com
This premier five-star
property lies beside the My
Dinh National Stadium and
Convention Centre. Boasts
two swimming pools, a spa,
and a fitness centre in its 24
stories.
DAEWOO HOTEL
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3831 5555
www.hanoi-daewoohotel.
com
This enormous structure
offers the most modern of
amenities, and with four
restaurants and two bars,
the events staff is well
equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National
Convention Center, and a
favourite of the business
traveller, Daewoo even
boasts an outdoor driving
range. Shortly to become a
Marriot property.
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI

6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3831 3333
www.fortuna.vn
This 350-room four-star set
up in the heart of Hanois financial district has a variety
of rooms on offer, a capital
lounge and three restaurants that serve Japanese,
Chinese and international
cuisine. And like youd expect, theres a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a
separate spa and treatment
facility for men and women.
Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business
deals on rooms and spaces
to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.
HOTEL DE LOPERA
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
Resting just a step away
from the Opera House, the
hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.
The first boutique five star
in the heart of Hanoi, the

lavish, uniquely designed
107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and
are complimented by two
restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI
WESTLAKE
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6270 8888
www.hanoi.intercontinental.
com
This stunning property built
over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.
Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable,
top-end accommodation and
all the mod-cons make up the
mix here together with the
resorts three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar,
a watering hole located on a
thoroughfare over the lake.
Great gym and health club.
JW MARRIOTT HANOI
8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu
Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833
5588
jwmarriotthanoi.com
From the expressive architecture outside to the
authentic signature JW
Marriott services inside,
this Marriott hotel in Hanoi
is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next
door to the National Convention Centre.
MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER

43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933
5688
maydeville.com
The largest four-star hotel
in Hanois Old Quarter, 110
rooms, a swimming pool, a
top floor terrace bar and a
location just a stones throw
from Hoan Kiem Lake make
this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in
the heart of the action.
MELIA HANOI
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
www.meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central
Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws
plenty of business travellers and is also a popular
venue for conferences and
wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant
restaurants, stylish bars,
fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house
guests satisfied.
MVENPICK HOTEL HANOI

83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
www.moevenpick-hanoi.
com
With its distinctive French
architecture and top end
service, Mvenpick Hotel
Hanoi is aimed squarely at
corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge
bar are available to satiate
their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range
of equipment. Massage and
sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to
rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites,
93 are non-smoking.
PULLMAN HOTEL
$$$$
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3733 0808
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and
suites, a contemporary
lobby, an excellent buffet,
and a la carte restaurant,
this Accor group property
is prestigious and close to
the Old Quarter.
www.airasia.com
AIR FRANCE
130 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3825 8583
www.airfrance.com.vn
AIR MEKONG
1st Floor, Centre Point
Building, 106 Nguyen Van
Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: (08) 3846 3999
www.airmekong.com.vn
AMERICAN AIRLINES
194 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330
www.aa.com
CATHAY PACIFIC
5th Floor, Centec Tower,
72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3
Tel: 3822 3203
www.cathaypacific.com/
vn
CHINA AIRLINES
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Tel: 3911 1591
www.china-airlines.com
JAPAN AIRLINES
3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3821 9098
www.vn.jal.com
JETSTAR PACIFIC
www.jetstar.com/vn
SHERATON
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
www.sheraton.com/hanoi
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and
tranquil courtyards, this
peaceful property features
picturesque views of West
Lake and is less than 10
minutes from downtown.
In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers
an outdoor swimming pool
and great relaxation and
fitness facilities, including a
tennis court and spa. There
are well equipped conference rooms and a newly
refurbished Executive Club
Lounge.
SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE

HANOI
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
www.sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French
colonial period is probably
still the finest in todays Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was)
anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where
the service is impeccable
and the luxurious facilities
complement the ambiance of
a bygone era. Definitely the
place to put the Comtessa up
for a night.
KOREAN AIR
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3824 2878
www.koreanair.com
LAO AIRLINES
93 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: 3822 6990
www.laoairlines.com
MALAYSIA AIRLINES
Ground Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1
Tel: 3829 2529
www.malaysiaairlines.
com
SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Saigon Tower Bulding,
Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3823 1588
www.singaporeair.com
THAI AIRWAYS
29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3822 3365
www.thaiairways.com.vn
TIGER AIRWAYS
www.tigerair.com
VIETJETAIR
www.vietjetair.com
VIETNAM AIRLINES
27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
Tel: 3832 0320
www.vietnamairlines.com
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let us see what we can do. Email us at listings@wordvietnam.com
SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI

1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3823 8888
Boasting Hanois best views
of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake
and the Red River, Sofitel
Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.
The 5-star hotel features
317 luxurious, comfortable
guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view
ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.
a short walk from the Opera

House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining
contemporary architecture
with traditional Vietnamese
style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including
four suites.
HANOI BUDGET
HANOI BACKBACKERS HOSTEL
HANOI MID-RANGE
6 ON SIXTEEN
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
www.sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to
grace Hanois Old Quarter,
the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with
handicrafts and antique.
Breakfast is included and in
the long, lounge restaurant
on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is
served up with fresh fruit
juices and Lavazza coffee.
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL
$$$
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928
6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the
Old Quarter, this little slice of
heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient
restaurant, serves the finest
in international and Vietnamese cuisine.
MAISON DHANOI HANOVA HOTEL
$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem
Lake, this glowing pearl in
the heart of Hanoi provides
tranquility with an art gallery
and piano bar.
MAY DE VILLE
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988
Set in the old French Quarter
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3828 5372
www.hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town,
with bunk-style beds mixed
or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus
a couple of double suites
from VND250,000. A place
to meet like-minded fold in
the Old Quarter.
HCMC - INTERNATIONAL
CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Reports
2006 list of the worlds top
100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular
rooftop Saigon Saigon bar,
and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.
DUXTON HOTEL
$$$
63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2999
saigon.duxtonhotels.com
Famous for its daylong
rotatingmenu buffets, the
Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym,
spa, and fine dining.
EQUATORIAL
$$$
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property
boasts seven dining and
entertainment outlets, a
business centre, meeting
rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.
The Equatorial also has an
on-site casino.
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON
$$$$$
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 7777
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex
offers: 14 instant offices,
seven meeting rooms, a
600-capacity ballroom, spa,
outdoor swimming pool, a
gym, 24-hour fine dining,
24-hours room service, and
limousine services.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON
$$$$$
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh
City, resides the Asiana with
signature dining options,
an innovative cocktail bar,
exclusive spa and health
club, together with luxury
boutique arcade.
2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in
location, everything one
would expect from the Hyatt.
The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants
have garnered an excellent
reputation, as has the landscaped pool.
PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE
$$$$$
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the
site of the old Metropole,
this upscale, contemporary
property boasts 306 signature rooms combining

design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine,
a great downtown location
and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600
guests make up the mix.
REX HOTEL
$$$$
3829 2185
rexhotelvietnam.com
Brimming with history the
Rexs openair fifthfloor
bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now
five-star property, boasts
designer fashion and a shop-
ping arcade.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the
Saigon River, a 15-minute
scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town,
Riversides complementary
shuttle services take you
right in the city centre. With
152 fully equipped serviced
apartments, the property
offers special packages for
short-term stay starting at
VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.
Josephs Hotel
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
Next to the cathedral
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON
$$$$
2A4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture,
spacious rooms, and a fine
selection of fine dining, with
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
NEW WORLD HOTEL
$$$$
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Former guests include U.S.
presidents two Bushes,
Clinton and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event
as well as a hotel, New World
is one of the best luxury
stops in town.
PARK HYATT
$$$$$
Free wi-fi, international breakfast,

spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,
multi-shower, friendly service
www.josephshotel.com
5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
DESTINATION ZERO
A NEW DESTINATION?
y mountainside room has a

view, the kind of view that
people travel halfway across
the globe for paddy field
greenery that sweeps into an infinity of
sky, limestone mountains and canals. Yet
set in a remote part of southwest Vietnam
on the edge of Cambodia, this is the type
of sight that few overseas visitors to this
country ever see. Until now.
My location? Nui Sam Mountain, a place
of Mecca-like pilgrimage thanks to Ba Chau
Xu Temple, and just 7km from Chau Doc.
In the first three months of 2013, 1.9 million
mainly domestic visitors flocked to this
iconic temple. For 2014, the figures have yet
to be calculated, but it is likely to be just as
many if not more.
Yet my place of residence, even at
the end of the pilgrimage season, is
surprisingly quiet. The three-star Victoria
Nui Sam Lodge, the latest of a Frenchstyled chain of Indochine hotels stretching
across Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, has
much in common with the lodges and villas
of Dalat or the hill stations to the north.
Stone-brick bungalows nestle into the side
of the mountain, while fauna, flowers,
views and vegetable gardens make up the
away-from-the-rest-of-the-world package.
But this isn't any old resort. First is the
designation three-star, a misnomer for
Vietnam. By local standards the star count
should number four, but the Victoria chain
holds itself to higher standards. From
my own experience, this is a wonderfully
comfortable, if not elegant version of three.
Then theres the staff. This is a training
hotel, a property where the staff are
recruited from around the area and then
given six months worth of hospitality
training to ready them for the real,
exceeding-guests-expectations world.
Most will go on to work in Victorias more
upmarket properties in the region. But this
place is a land that creates opportunities,
a Vietnamese yet somehow intriguingly
American dream.
Beyond Nui Sam

On my second morning I took an
exhilarating early-morning 25km cycling
trip along the canals, over the paddies and
through small villages. This is Vietnam as it
has existed for years. I then travelled by car
to the nearby Tra Su Bird Sanctuary.
Another one of those gems not given the
coverage it deserves by the guidebooks,
this wetland nature reserve was
spellbinding. Swarming with 70 species
of birds, many close enough to view, the
melaleuca forest, grassland and swamp adds

to the reserves sense of mystique. Nearly
erased during the war it was used as a
Viet Cong hideout nature has retaliated
and made a comeback. So have the birds.
Here they nest and go about their business
in abundance.
On my way back to the resort we stopped
off for a cold sugar palm juice (nuoc thot not),
a drink more refreshing and certainly more

tasty than its sugar cane equivalent. Then we
visited a 300-year-old Khmer pagoda nestled
in a Khmer village. This is all the tip of the
inland, middle-of-nowhere iceberg. There is
much to do in the area around Nui Sam and
Chau Doc. Now people are starting to know
about it. Nick Ross
For more information visit victoriahotels.asia
travel
travel
PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS
WHAT GOES THROUGH MY HEAD
fter teaching photography for a

number of years, I have begun to
find educational material to be all
the same and just a little bit boring.
Then I stumbled across an amazing book by
Michael Freeman The Photographers Mind
which had a lot of pertinent elements
that I really enjoyed reading. I highly
recommend everyone to read this book.
Here I have put together one of Michaels
chapters with my own South East Asian
travel photographers chilli sauce,
because I find that it is a very effective
way of showing people what goes through
someones mind during the process of
taking a photo. When I describe it to my
students, I find they really enjoy this they
can instantly imagine how things happen
and how they can apply their knowledge.
I will divide the process into four
steps camera settings; observation;
anticipation and experience.
2) Observation
Every good travel, street photographer
and photojournalist is a great observer.
Being aware of their surroundings, the
photographer will use a shorter time to
make important decisions, such as how to
use the natural light, or which foreground
/ background to use. This is necessary,
especially when the process of composing
an image only involves the subject at the
very end.
it frees you up time to think of the details

and techniques that will make a great
composition.
4) Experience
1) Camera settings
One of the best ways to be efficient in
travel and street photography is to be fast;
especially in Southeast Asia where things
are so busy. Mastering camera settings is
the first step to becoming fast and this is
the reason why I advise my students to
use aperture priority when shooting (at
least during the day) and to always adjust
their settings when entering a new light
situation (a brighter or darker area).
Once this is done, it becomes
something less to worry about when a
photo opportunity presents itself. The
photographers reaction will also be faster
if they can find all buttons and functions
instinctively, as the camera becomes the
extension of the body.
Knowing what aperture to use depends
on the depth of field desired and the distance
of the subject, finding the ISO button while
looking through the viewfinder and so on. All
these little things will help the photographer
win seconds, which are vital and will make
light work of a spontaneous shot.
The need to be very fast and know
camera settings is essential to capturing
that fleeting moment
BY ETIENNE BOSSOT
3) Anticipation
Once youve got camera settings and
observation skills primed, anticipation
is the next skill to master: moving ahead
and in preparation of the photo concept.
Anticipating where a potential subject is
going to be, where the light is going to
move is key to shooting a great photo. This
requires being physically fit enough to be
able to move quickly, sometimes over holes,
puddles, trees, walls, rivers, highways,
magma and more.
Being comfortable with camera settings
will help win seconds, which are vital
for the photographer. I often find that
my students are missing great photo
opportunities because they feel in a rush.
They are often overwhelmed by all the great
potential photos to be shot and are rushing
to shoot as many things as possible. What
happens then? The brain stops working.
The result is a lack of discipline in creating
composition, and as is very often the case,
the use of the wrong camera settings. Yes,
you know I am talking about.
Once the camera settings are prepared in
advance, the environment understood, and
the photograph concept set up in the mind,
We tend to compose images using a few

of the photography techniques we have
learnt. But mostly its an unconscious act of
applying what we know to making a good
photo. For this we are using, as Michael
Freeman says, a repertoire of photos we
have previously seen or taken and that we
know work for us.
Using lines as diagonals, applying the
rule of thirds, having our subject frame a
certain way this is very important in
order to be fast and make decisions. It also
increases the risk of taking the same photo
template over and over again.
Thus the need for extra time gained
by preparation, observation, anticipation
and applying our experience to adjust the
composition and create something new,
special and different. This will help us
reach another level of creativity.
To get in contact with Etienne, email info@

picsofasia.com or go to picsofasia.com
travel
RIVERSIDE HOTEL
$$$$$
1819-20 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417
riversidehotelsg.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers
complimentary Wi-Fi, airport
pickup or drop off, a 4th floor
ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River
Restaurant.
SHERATON
$$$$$
88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of
the best locations in town,
with firstclass facilities,
an openair restaurant 23
floors above the city and
a live music venue on the
same floor.
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA
$$$$
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
This 20story building in
downtown Saigon, caters
to upscale business and
leisure travelers seeking a
classic yet contemporary
stay in Saigon.
WINDSOR PLAZA
$$$
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its
own shopping hub (including
a bank), fine dining, a sauna,
health club, and superb
panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest
Oktoberfest in the region.
HCMC - DELUXE
CONTINENTAL
$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn
This charming old hotel has
been fted in literature and
in film. In the heart of Saigon,
this is the first choice to high-
light Vietnamese culture.
$$$
3829 5517
majesticsaigon.com.vn
chic thanks to a subdued

palette of white and grey
around two pop colours:
azalea pink and green hot
pepper. Part of the Thien
Minh Group that includes
Victoria Hotels and Buffalo
Tours.
NORFOLK HOTEL
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2
HOTEL MAJESTIC
$$$
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique
business hotel is located
minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and
is renowned for its fabulous
steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.
NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE
$$$
167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3822 4866
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has
a contemporary feel, an
international buffet The
Square a rooftop bar, and
a wellness centre including a
swimming pool, gym, sauna
and spa.
STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL
$$$
144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
The newly-built hotel is near
Tan Son Nhat International
Airport. With spectacular
city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming
pool, there is little reason not
to choose this shining star.
HCMC - MID-RANGE
ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$
3822 5914
kimdohotel.com
EMM HOTEL
157 Pasteur, Q3
A sleek, contemporary
three-star hotel that mixes
vintage appeal and modern
$$$
46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa
Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
THAO DIEN VILLAGE
$$
195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2222
thaodienvillage.com
A colonialstyle hotel and
spa offers fine Italian, Thai
and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view
that overlook the bank of
the Saigon River, this is truly
someplace special.
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL
$$$
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,
Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256
9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
HCMC - BUDGET
DUC VUONG HOTEL
$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 6992
ducvuonghotel.com
Free WiFi offered in every
room. Low prices, friendly
staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps
from the backpackers area.
SINH HUONG HOTEL
$
157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
HOI AN & DANANG

AN BANG BEACH RETREAT
An Bang Beach, Hoi An
www.anbangbeachretreat.
com
CUA DAI
$
544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:
(0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$
Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu
Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 396 1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn
FURAMA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da
Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang
Resort and Spa is beachfront
with a stunning view of the
Marble Mountains. There
are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.
LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI
$$$
Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui
Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel:
(0510) 354 5105
domainedetamhai.com
LIFE RESORT HOI AN
$$$
1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An,
Tel: (0510) 391 4555
life-resorts.com
MERCURE DANANG
$$$
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379
7777
mercure-danang.com
PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the white sands
of Bac My An beach close
to both Danang and Hoi An,
the welcoming and modern
Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities
and facilities for a dynamic
escape. Perfect for a family
holiday or a romantic beach
getaway.
THE NAM HAI
$$$$
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village,
Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394
0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive
swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant
spa on a lotus pond. Each
massive room has its own
espresso machine, pre
programmed iPod and both
indoor and outdoor showers.
VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT

AND SPA
Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510)
392 7040
victoriahotels.asia
HUE & LANG CO

ANGSANA LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnams South
Central Coast, Angsana Lang
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encompasses the resorts contemporary buildings and chic
interiors.
DUNA HOTEL
$
167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel:
(08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
www.cocobeach.net
paradise@cocobeach.net
HONG HOA HOTEL
$
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
Coco Beach Resort
58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, W. Ham Tien

Phan Thiet, Vietnam
+84-(0)62-3847111 / 2 / 3
travel
BANYAN TREE LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/
lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The
Banyan Tree offers privacy
and unparalleled exclusivity
with all-pool villas reflecting
the cultural and historical
legacy of past Vietnamese
dynastic periods.
LA RESIDENCE
$$$$
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383
7475
laresidencehue.com
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL
$
66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382
6736
hoangphuonghotel.com
NHA TRANG
EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX
SENSES SPA
$$$$
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)
352 2222
sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/
destination
2.6 hectares of private
beachside gardens and
villastyle accommodation
furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool
bar and the signature Six
Senses Spa.
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT
$
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this
budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG
$$$$
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:
(058) 398 9666
mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG
$$$
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:
(058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with
154 guestrooms, all with
a terrace and sea view.
Complete with a pool, spa,
restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up
to 200 delegates.
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH

VAN BAY
$$$$
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372
8222
Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.
sixsenses.com/resorts/
ninh-van-bay/destination
The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.
The location is stunning, on a
bay accessible only by boat.
SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL

AND SPA
$$$$
26 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058)
388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang
SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA
$$$
1214 Tran Phu, Nha Trang,
Tel: (058) 382 0999
sunrisenhatrang.com.vn
WHALE ISLAND RESORT
$$
Tel: (058) 384 0501
whaleislandresort.com
PHAN THIET & MUI NE

ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND
SPA
$$$$
8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
374 3777
allezboo.com
This resort offers exotic
Balistyle, thatched roof
honeymoon villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms,
fresh seafood, Vietnamese
cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing
and parasailing.
BLUE OCEAN
$$$$
384 7322
life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH
$$$$
384 7111
cocobeach.net
With charming wooden
bungalows, a private beach,
a swimming pool (both with
attached bars) and a French
restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who
opened it in 1995.
MIA RESORT MUI NE
$$$
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
PRINCESS DANNAM RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh,
Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222
princessannam.com
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,
Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria
chain, the thatchedroof

bungalows and family villas
are set in exotic gardens
with an infinity swimming
pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and
jacuzzi.
PHONG NHA
EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR
$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail.
com
A hostel and street-front bar
all in one. Has a pleasant,
airy atmosphere in the bar
and restaurant area while
the 52 dorm beds four
beds to a room go for
US$8 (VND168,000) each a
night.
HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY
$$
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
phong-nha-homestay.com
PEPPER HOUSE
$
Tel: 01678 731560
pepperhouse-homestay.com
PHONG NHA FARMSTAY
$$
Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers joint
has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool
out back and views overlooking paddy fields and
mountains. Rooms start at
VND600,000 for a twin or
double, with a family room
for five costing VND1.4 million a night.
PHONG NHA LAKE RESORT
$$
Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo
Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052)
367 5999
phongnhalakehouse.com
SAIGON - PHONG NHA
$$$
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016
sgphongnhahotel@yahoo.
com.vn
THANH DAT
$
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7328
thanhdatphongnha.com
PHU QUOC
BEACH CLUB RESORT
$$
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island
guesthouse featuring a
beachside restaurant, and
includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and
tours are easily arranged.
Discount rates during rainy
season.
CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua
Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang,
Tel: (077) 399 5895
centarahotelsresorts.com
LA VERANDA
$$$$
Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach,
Phu Quoc, Tel: (077) 398
2988
laverandaresorts.com
MANGO BAY
$$
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An ecofriendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.
SAPA
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
$$
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203
871946
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from
its bar restaurant, the Cat
Cat Guesthouse is paradise
at very reasonable rates.
The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log
fireplaces.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$$
Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai
Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)
topasecolodge.com
With its panoramic views of
the surrounding mountains
and valley, Topas Ecolodge
is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and
quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains the
landscape, the fresh air and
the ethnic peoples. Guests
stay in private bungalows
with dinner served in a local
stilt house restaurant.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$
24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel:
0203 872404
topasecolodge.com
For the environmentally
conscientious, 25 individual
lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar
technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also
organises treks and bicycle
tours.
VICTORIA SAPA
$$$
Tel: 0203 871522
victoriahotels.asia
VUNG TAU & HO TRAM

BINH AN VILLAGE
$$$$
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
CON DAO RESORT
$$
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con
Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064)
383 0939
condaoresort.vn
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND

SPA
$$$$
Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is
the ideal getaway from Ho
Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely
bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa
and two swimming pools.
HO TRAM SANCTUARY
$$$$
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come
with their own pool and have
direct access to the beach.
Extras include tennis courts,
a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.
REX HOTEL
$$
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
SIX SENSES CON DAO
$$$$
Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao
THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP

Phuoc Thuan Commune,
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand - Ho Tram Strip
is Vietnams first large
scale integrated resort and
ultimately will include a
1,100-room five-star hotel,
a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting
space, an exclusive VIP area,
as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.
The first 541-room tower
of this development opened
in July 2013 with its casino
including 90 live tables and
614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room
tower is on track to open in
2015.
TRAVEL SERVICES HANOI

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com
www.buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at
the service of all Vietnamese
and expatriate residents
in Vietnam offering easy,
hassle-free travel around
the world and in Vietnam,
with the highest standards
of customer care. This
premium Travel Agency
has been created to help
travelers select their destinations and organize their
trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and
ensure that all journeys are
enjoyable and successful.
BTA customizes leisure and
corporate travel plans while
offering a selected range of
small group tours.
EXOTISSIMO
66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3828 2150
www.exotissimo.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel
agency with an extensive
operational track record in
the Indochina region and
beyond. Providing up-market
services, Exotissimo brings
their clients close to culture
through personalised tours.
Also find travel desks at the
Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which
are open on weekends and
holidays.
HANDSPAN TRAVEL
78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3926 2828
www.handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers
with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular
and isolated locations in
Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable
and responsible tourism
initiatives. Also provides to
excursions to more wellworn destinations.
HG TRAVEL
47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
www.hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising
in small-group tours around
Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole
representative agent for
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities
in Africa www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines
(www.aa.com) and Turkish
Airlines (www.thy.com).
INDOCHINA LAND
61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2852
www.indochina-land.com
Indochina Land is a French
local travel agency for
travel
TRAVEL PROMOS
PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH
Voulez-Vous?
@ Vous Spa at the Novotel Nha
Trang
novotel-nhatrang.com
Its raining back in Saigon,
and you just want to relax on
your weekend away. Vous
Spa wants that too. For the
whole month of June, theyll
throw in 30 minutes of foot
reflexology, scalp massage,
manicure or pedicure when
you book any treatments off
the menu. Contact (058) 625
6938 for more info.
Where It All Began

@ Coco Beach Resort
cocobeach.net
Coco Beach doesnt parade
this around, but they did
start off that whole thing you
know today as the resort
capital of Vietnam. First
to the white sands of Mui
Ne, Coco Beach has a rare
promotion starting this Jun.
27 a two-night stay in a
beach-topping bungalow
for only VND2,990,000
per person, based on dual
occupancy. The gardensurrounded, thatched-roof
bungalow is so comfortable
youll only want to leave for
the included seafood dinner
and aromatherapy massage.
An extra bed is available for
an accompanying child, free
of charge.
Summer Family
Getaway
@ Ana Mandara Villas Dalat
anamandara-resort.com
Looking for somewhere to
take the family? Go the Ana
Mandara way until Aug.
29, taking your whole family
for a Villa Studio holiday
costs only VND3,150,000
net per family per night.
This is a minimum of two
nights, and can be for two
adults and two children or
three adults, and includes
a VND500,000 food-andbeverage voucher. Discover
the fresh, clear highland
summer, and coast off
its memory during the
upcoming rainy season.
Summer Fun
@ Allez Boo Resort
allezbooresort.com
All this summer through
to Oct. 12 because, why
not? Allez Boo is lowering
the price on fun, from
VND1,310,000 net nightly.
Included in that is daily
breakfast, a welcome drink,
discounts on activities and
food and beverages, and of
course, Mui Nes finest sea
breezes.
Au Co Cruise
Anniversary
aucocruises.com
For the month of June, Bhaya
Cruises is offering three days
and two nights aboard the
Au Co Cruise for US$345
about VND7.3 million,
a discount of VND4.5
million off the standard
price of US$560 for the same
package. This special marks
the companys anniversary,
and also includes a magical
candlelit dinner in a cave
grotto so deep into
adventure and luxury that
the real world wont feel so
real when youre back to it.
Teambuilding at
Lang Co
@ Ansana Lang Co
angsana.com
For meeting bookings
made before Dec. 31 for
stays and bookings until
Apr. 30, 2015 Angsana
has some added incentives
for bringing your team to
Central Vietnam in their
Meeting Perks promotion.
Groups that reserve 20
room nights and a full-day
meeting package qualify
for two perks among the
following list: choice of
a 30-minute All-TerrainVehicle ride, archery,
or water pillar paddle
experience per delegate; a
half-day guided meditation
trip to Truc Lam Zen
Monastery; a pre-dinner
open bar; two 90-minute

a la carte spa sessions at
Angsana Spa per 20 room
nights; or two 18-hole green
fee waivers at the Sir Nick
Faldo-designed Laguna
Lang Co championship
golf course per 20 room
nights. Tons of other perks
are involved especially
for organisers so get
cracking.
Stay 3, Pay 2
@ Mango Bay Phu Quoc
mangobayphuquoc.com
Mango Bay Phu Quoc is
known for its relaxing vibe,
and in introducing their
Stay 3, Pay 2 package theyre
doing even more to keep
the days stretching before
you. From now until Oct.
31, book two nights starting
at VND1,260,000 net per
night and get the third free
working out to about half
the high seasons rates. Its
easy to get into the swing of
things at Mango Bay, with
nights sipping wine under
the starlit sky and days
spent by the isolated stretch
of beach the eco resort sits
on. Now theres no need to
shake up the routine when
the weekend ends.
Cool Summer
@ Dalat Edensee
dalatedensee.com
Its been three years since
Dalat Edensee started
offering the mountain views
theyve become known for,
and theyd like you to take
in the mountain breeze
with their cool summer
promotion, happening from
May 5 to Aug. 25. From
VND5.49 million for two,
Edensee will put you up in
a Mimosa Superior room for
three days and two nights,
letting you contemplate
the tennis and swimming
facilities from your restful
balcony, and throwing in gift
vouchers for spa treatments
plus a romantic dinner every
night.
expatriates and tourists

who want to see northern
Vietnam in a personal and
tailored way. Think small
knowledgeable teams of
Vietnamese and French
who share their passion for
discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on
freedom, family, health trips
and classic home stays. They
will show you around Ha Giang, too.
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
www.intrepidtravel.com/
vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is
an international travel company operating in Vietnam
since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks
and small group adventures.
With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid
focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City,
Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong
Bay, Sapa and beyond to get
you up close to Vietnams
people, cuisine, history and
culture.
SYRENA CRUISES
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 7214
www.syrenacruises.com
If youre thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while
enjoying luxury comfort,
Syrena Cruises could be the
quencher youre looking for.
Forget drinking games and
backpackers by relaxing on
one of the two wooden boats
from the fleet. Alone, as a
couple or with a group, 34
luxurious cabins and suites
are all ready for action. All
you have to do is decide on
how long you want to holiday for.
TRAVEL SERVICES ELSEWHERE

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY
70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702;
157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi
Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827
9170
www.buffalotours.com
This premium travel agency
helps travelers select their
destinations and organize
their trips. From corporate
travel to small group tours,
explore the world or Vietnam.
EXOTISSIMO
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)
3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotissimo.com
A reliable and experienced
travel company operating
through Southeast Asia,
Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the
region, many including insights into culinary customs,
handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.
CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING

SERVICE
11th floor, 36 Bui Thi Xuan,
District 1, HCMC
Call center: 1900 5454 40
www.en.chudu24.com
info.en@chudu24.com
Chudu24.com - the locally
famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is
known for having the best
prices and reliable service.
If you are looking for great
local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com.
It has been the #1 Vietnam
hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.
FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

(08) 3824 7744
flightravelco.com
Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel
insurance, to corporate
companies, family and individual travelers.
FLY VIETNAM
flyvietnam.com
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel:
0904 193308
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui
Ne, Tel: 0908 400108
mantasailing.org
TERRAVERDE
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di,
Ward 4, Tan Binh District,
Tel: (08) 3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through
the Mekong Delta, trekking
in the highlands, or lazing in
a junk on Ha Long Bay all
while making a difference in
peoples lives then this
company will suit you well.
TU TRAVEL
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho
City, Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

169A De Tham, Q1, Tel:
01222 993585
vietnamvespaadventure.
com
Vespa Adventure offers multiday tours of southern and
coastal Vietnam on the back
of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable
biodiesel. English-speaking
tour guides lead the way.
Hanoi
RECALLING HANOI // THE PROMOTIONS // BOOK BUFF // THE ALCHEMIST // THE THERAPIST //
MEDICAL BUFF // STUDENT EYE
hanoi
old quarter
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS
BARS & CLUBS

CHEEKY QUARTER
LATE NIGHT LOCAL

1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
01679 647254
8pm to late
Last building on the right
before Hang Buom, this
popular with the French
(and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has
the same Old Quarter vibe;
small, cosy and personal
with funky twists and an
awesome logo. Spread over
two floors with good tunes,
drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till
late. Also does tasty paninis
into the early hours.
DRAGONFLY
DANCEHALL LOUNGE
15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 4926 2177
11am to late
One of the better venues in
the Old Quarter for dancing
on the weekends. Although
crammed into a small space,
cheap drinks and a mix of
chart chits makes Dragonfly
the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident
looking to get up on the
dance floor. If you dont feel
like dancing, relax upstairs
with shisha and friends with
one of the two lounges on
the second floor. The sister
venue on Phung Hung has a
bigger menu and an earlier
opening hour (11am instead
of 6pm) but still keeps with
the shisha, pool table and
dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.
FATCAT BAR
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

0986 495211
linkhanoi.com
4pm to late
Straddling Bia Hoi Corner
and the cobblestoned end
of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a
small establishment from the
minds behind the party and
event organisers, LinkHanoi.
The bar has tables filling the
first floor and spilling onto
the sidewalk as well as a
small loft area for lounging.
Nightly cocktail specials,
reasonable bottles deals
starting at VND500,000 and
a DJ on the decks make up
the mix.
FUNKY BUDDHA
ELECTRO LOUNGE
(04) 3292 7614
8pm to late
HAIR OF THE DOG
LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE

32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
0947 893232
10am to late
HALF MAN HALF NOODLE
LATE DIVE BAR

62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3926 1943
3pm to late
IRISH WOLFHOUND
IRISH PUB
4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821
irishwolfhoundpub.com
8am to 2am
The open-air watering hole
with seating on the pavement
is a great spot to enjoy a tall
dark stout or light pilsner at
anytime, day or night. What it
lacks in gaudy decorations,
it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and
billiards on the third floor.
Has a decent food menu and
even better pizzas.
LA BOMBA LATINA
LATIN BAR
46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: 0917 245155
LE PUB
BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL
RESTOBAR
25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 2104
7am to midnight
Dark red walls and even
darker brown seating run
through the homely and
casual Le Pub, one of the few
bars in town with a regular
stream of clientele. A long
list of imported beer, Tiger
draft, a decent international
cum Vietnamese food menu,
happy hour specials and live
sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets
involved in the local community through regular events.
MAOS RED LOUNGE
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

(04) 3926 3104
MOJITO BAR
CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR

19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan
Kiem
facebook.com/mojito.bar.
lounge
Decked out in wooden pan-
elling and bare brick, this

tastefully designed watering
whole in the Old Quarter is
known for its prize-winning
bartender and excellent
cocktails
verted, colonial-era villa, the

concept of the third Joma is
the same as at its two other
cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter,
and a great selection of
sandwiches, bagels, salads,
cakes, ice-cream and tea.
smoking downstairs space

is filled with people working
and socialising. Serves as
community centre, catering
both to ravenous backpackers whove just arrived off
the night train from Sapa and
locals looking to meet up.
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
THE CART
POLITE PUB
LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3825 0959
5pm to 2am
A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest
pubs in the city, this staple
watering hole on Bao Khanh
continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi
has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals
and expats who find solace
in the nightly conversations
at the long bar, billiards and
live football matches.
ROCKSTORE
LIVE MUSIC BAR
01653 336087
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock
Cafe without the stigma and
the expensive prices. Nightly
live music or DJing events
are coupled with creative
decor, a selection of Belgian
Beer and a food menu.
SPY BAR
HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802
TEMPLE BAR
NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR

Tel: (04) 6675 7908
TET BAR
LATE-NIGHT BAR
2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 3050
THE SPOT
LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE

(04) 3935 1874
8am to midnight
CAFES
CAFE PHO CO
COFFEE SHOP WITH A VIEW

Back of 11 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8153
JOMA
INTERNATIONAL CAFE
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem
joma.biz
Housed in a two-storey con-
COFFEE/BAKERY
222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 3388
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi
in 2009. Joma contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3825 0216
7am to 8pm
MOCA CAFE
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
(04) 3825 6334
8am to 10pm
Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly
location gives Moca a large
amount of guidebook-driven
clientele. But dont let this put
you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good
WiFi and some of the best
coffee in town makes this
a great spot to while away
a couple of hours. The food
menu mixes Vietnamese fare
with sandwiches, western
and pan-Asian mains.
PUKU
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745
Open 24 hours
This spacious spot on food
street is open around the
clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along
with more eclectic Irish
nachos, cottage pies and
pan-Asian fare. Upstairs
is fit for social gatherings
and live music while the no-
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938
2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small a cozy caf hidden
on the quietest of Hanoian
streets. Serves and delivers
tasty baguettes, homemade
juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery
service is quick and reliable,
which makes this lunchtime
favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

BOO SKATESHOP
SKATESHOP
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 1147
Booskateshop.com
CONTRABAND
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9891
Launched in Hanoi in 2007,
Contraband targets young
hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look
after making them ideal for
work and travel. New styles
are introduced each month
with limited production runs,

offering a sense of exclusivity.
LATELIER
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 2419
ateliervietnam.com
The downtown store of this
well-known chic boutique.
Stocks womens wear,
leather bags, shoes and
handicrafts. Offers both
ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem.
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital has seen
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3828 6965
This shops motto Western
sizes, Vietnamese prices,
says it all. While mostly retailing womens separates
in soft cotton jersey and
linen, the store also carries a range of accessories
like embroidered canvas
totes and printed tees. Has
a good selection of unique
mens shirts.
THREE TREES
JEWELLERY
(04) 3928 8725
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang
Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
hanoi
COFFEE CUP
THE COFFEE INN
ne of the great things about living

in a city like Hanoi is that when
the summer heat rolls in, as it
inevitably does, there is no shortage
of places to take refuge.
With coffee franchises and blue-stool
sidewalk cafes a dime-a-dozen, its always
refreshing to see a newcomer throw their
hat into the ring and offer something a bit
different.
The Coffee Inn, located on Phan Chu
Trinh, opened its doors last year. Its runaway
success enabled it to recently expand its
premises and its menu, which now includes a
range of affordable pasta dishes.
The new areas include a funky art deco
dining area that opens onto an industrialinspired outdoor space next to the cafs
pasta kitchen.
Inside, black and white tiled floors and
polished wooden furniture create a trendy,
Photos by Julie Vola
modern feel, which has proven popular

with the well-heeled young and professional
crowds. Theyve also opened a second
upstairs area with a balcony overlooking
Phan Chu Trinh, in addition to the existing
attic-style lounge in the original building.
Consistently Good
The spaces have been a surefire hit with the
clientele. A quick scan of the downstairs
area shows just how versatile the space is:
business lunches, coffee dates, lunch dates,
group meetings, the lone guy working on
his laptop (me), the couple in the corner
booth taking selfies theyre all here.
But the chic design and Facebook checkins arent the only factors behind why
Hanoians are lapping up this new space. In
fact, there are a couple of other reasons the
caf has been such a hit with the lunchtime
and after-work crowds.
One of these is the cafs new lunchtime

special, which allows you to get a decent
sized spaghetti dish and passion fruit
soda for VND55,000 with upsizes for only
VND20,000 extra.
The other reason is the coffee. Its
consistent, strong and made by highly
trained, friendly baristas. The coffee is so
good that it has even secured a place on my
list of latte refueling stations around the city.
Banking clerk Trang Pham agrees the
caf has become a favourite with young
professionals: Its stylish, its very
comfortable and the prices are really good
for what they offer. This place has more
personality than the franchise places and
thats what makes it different.
I say cheers to that. David Mann
The Coffee Inn has three Hanoi branches: 3 Phan
Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem; 33 Nguyen Huu Huan,
Hoan Kiem; and 19 Thai Phien, Hai Ba Trung
hanoi
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 2645
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital will see
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
CAFE DE PARIS
FRENCH BISTRO
12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327
cafedeparis-hanoi.com
8am to 11pm
Thanks to its original tiled
floor, cast iron backed
chairs and wall-hung black
and white photography,
there is something decidedly
charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar.
Serving up a simple menu
of snacks such as quiche
Lorraine, Paris beurre and
croque monsieur, there is
also a selection of classic
but unpretentious French
mains. Has a daily specials
board and a decent range
of pizzas.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
Tel: (04) 3993 1399
10am to 10.30pm
A slither of a joint serving
up the same fare that the
lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an
international version of the
mighty curry they even
sell pork and beef here the
menu keeps to the northern
part of the subcontinent with
masala, dopiaza, korma and
the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a
good range of breads and
tandoor-cooked kebabs.
GREEN MANGO
WESTERN / VIETNAMESE
18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9916
greenmango.vn
7.30am to 11.30pm
GREEN TANGERINE
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

(04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
10am to 11pm daily
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets
you as you walk into this
French era-built villa that
houses the main section of
this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing
mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine,
blended in with Vietnamese
ingredients and cooking
styles, the resultant fare
has had customers coming
back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids
menu is also available, as is a
wine list focusing mainly on
French wines.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926
0639
10am to midnight
LITTLE INDIA
INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE

32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 1859
littleindianhn@gmail.com
LA RESTAURANT
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 8933
8am to 10pm
The complimentary warm
bread with rosemary is
reason enough to visit this
homely spot featuring hearty
lentil and black bean soups,
along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef
tenderloin or tofu with chilli
and mushrooms. We arent
quite sure why the Miele
Guide nominated it as one of
Asias finest restaurants as
service is lackadaisical and
tables could use candles to
improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately
tasty dishes more than make
up for any quips.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
(04) 3828 9052
8am to 11pm
A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed caf
and bar with an extensive
list of reliable cuisine. Tapas
are available, as well as full
courses such as veal, and
duck with currant sauce.
Known for its good, Euro-
pean-style coffee and firstfloor terrace area with views

over the cathedral. Has a
second garden restaurant
on Xuan Dieu.
LITTLE HANOI
21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 8333
7.30am to 11pm
MEDITERRANEO
PAN-ITALIAN
(04) 3826 6288
10am to 11pm
This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral
serves all the traditional
Italian fare you could need
homemade mozzarella
and fresh pasta, spinach
and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
boards, soups, salads and
fish. Throw in an extensive
wine list, a traditional wood
fire oven and a balcony spot
looking over Hanois trendy
caf scene and youre onto
a winner.
MILLENIUM
PAN-FRENCH
11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10pm
Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium
restaurant is the minimal
and chic result of a Caf Des
Arts makeover. The streets
new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking
goes over two floors and
has a welcome and inviting
three-level outdoor terrace
high up amid the concrete
and cables of the Old Quarter.
NAMASTE HANOI
PAN-INDIAN
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 3935 2400
namastehanoi.com
11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10.30pm
The latest newcomer to the
Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in
dishes from both northern
and southern India using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you
between VND150,000 and
VND300,000 and everything
is there, from curries and
breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or
out with a free delivery.
OLD HANOI
GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 8337
10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm
Gordon Ramsay once filmed
a show at this restaurant in

a renovated French villa and
now the ribs carry his namesake. But its the twist on old
world favourites, think fried
snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo,
in a casually elegant setting
that make this spot near
the train tracks standout.
Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and
check the schedule for live
traditional music.
Perhaps the only restaurant

in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesnt focus on
faux meat. Features a wide
range of juices and shakes
in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has
Asian favourites like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu
and Thai glass noodle salad,
along with some falafel and
western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will
find something to try on this
menu.
PROVECHO
THE LOFT STOP CAF
TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL

0912 223966
The successor of My Burger
My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny,
multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style,
chargrilled burgers from
around VND50,000 with a
range of additional toppings
including jalapeno peppers,
smoked bacon, mushrooms,
cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also
has a good range of Tex-Mex
fare, a number of pan-Asian
dishes and a decent delivery
service.
SOUTHGATE
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 1979
southgatehanoi.com
THE KAFE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 6245
thekafe.vn
Spacious, casual, energetic
and beautifully designed, The
KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy
the modern urban diner.
Preparing fresh food and
drinks that show respect to
natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe,
this caf-cum-restaurant is
a popular choice for Hanois
metrosexual community.
THE MOOSE AND ROO
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,
Tel:(04) 3200 1289
Contemporary Australian
and Canadian comfort food
in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.
Best known for their Scotch
egg, poutine and burgers.
Clever changing imagery on
the walls.
FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES

11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
8am to 11pm
SPICE
CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT

(04) 3926 0580
TANDOOR
PAN-INDIAN
(04) 3824 5359
11am to 10.30pm
A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising
in Northern Indian cuisine.
Has an indoor and upstairs,
white tablecloth aircon
area with a more casual
dining and bar space out
front. Does excellent kebabs
served from an authentic
tandoor oven as well as the
full range of mainly North
Indian curries. Also has a
branch in Saigon and does
excellent set lunches.
ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAF

16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 0253
FITNESS & YOGA

ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong
Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3923 0253
An international Yoga studio
providing classes across a
variety of levels and styles,
including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative
yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also
have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats,
books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR

BACCHUS CORNER
TAMARIND
CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN
(04) 3926 0580
5.30am to 10.30pm
WINE RETAILER
1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 1393
Part of the Tan Khoa chain,
the largest liquor and wine
distributor in the country,
the walls here are lined with

a decent selection of wines,
pleasantly arrayed and back
lit. Besides their selection of
new and old world wines
Helpful staff and free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 7666
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams
ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of
the greatest wines from the
best wine-growing regions
on the planet. The portfolio
mixes the best of both old
and new world wines.
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
SUPERMARKETS
BIG C SUPERMARKET
222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau
Giay
CITIMART HANOI TOWERS

49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem
CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba
Trung
FIVIMART
210 Tran Quang Khai,
Hoan Kiem
10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh
671 Hong Hoa Tham,
Ba Dinh
71 Nguyen Chi Thanh,
Dong Da
51 Xun Dieu, Tay Ho
93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
Online shopping: www.
fivimart.com.vn
HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET

36 Cat Linh, Dong Da
INTIMEX
22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan
Kiem
131-135 Hao Nam, Dong
Da
17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba
Trung
27 Huynh Thuc Khang,
Dong Da
METRO
126 Tam Trinh, Yen So,
Hoang Mai
Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue,
Tu Liem
RECALLING HANOI
PART TWO
andscape is entangled with history

and peoples lives. No matter
how young we are or what social
position we have, we all have
stories to tell.
Recalling Hanoi is my vision of Hanoi,
a tapestry weaved out of portraits,
peoples stories and the urban landscape
that hosts them.

I ask people living in the city to tell
me about a place in Hanoi that holds
memories. It can be about anything a
personal story intertwined with history;
a great event; everyday little stories that
our lives are made of. These stories, along
with the photographs of the storyteller
and the location provide depth.

Through this collection I am attempting
to create an intimate, multi-layered portrait
of this city through its collective memory.
The hope is that the audience will connect
to other peoples lives and also to their own
memories in an attempt to understand this
beautiful city.
Id ask them what they thought.

These are my first memories of sharing
how I felt about classical music with
anyone else. I remember we would talk
about the trees and the leaves, Id say, Do
you ever look up to the sky and think its
beautiful? Wed touch the trunks of the
trees to feel their souls. Id explain how I
felt about classical music how its deep
and special to me. Id link my feelings
about the music to Hoang Dieu and the
trees and the passing of the seasons.
I have four close friends and we are
all named after a season. I am Winter.
My friend Spring and I would often

visit Hoang Dieu to talk and touch the
wood, feeling the souls of the trees, the
soul of the city. One time, we listened to
Beethovens Spring Sonata and I explained
how the music is like the wind passing
through the leaves. Spring said, Ive
never really noticed before, but if you look
at the sky through the leaves it looks even
bluer. At that time there were almost no
cars and few motorbikes on Hoang Dieu.
Those that did drive down drove slowly
without obvious reason the street had
that impact on people.
Trang Thinh
Spring Sonata
Location: Hoang Dieu
When I was young my closest friends
and I would cycle home after school
down Hoang Dieu. Its a very wide street
with trees along the sides and down the
middle. Its so quiet, one of only a few
places in Hanoi where you can listen to
a Walkman, sit down and have a deep
conversation with a friend. I only brought
one friend at a time because any more
would make me feel overwhelmed. These
rides home along Hoang Dieu were my
only chance to talk to anyone else about
classical music. On the way we would
listen to songs I liked on my Walkman and
hanoi
BY JULIE VOLA
Mr Linh
The Governor
Location: Nguyen Du
I grew up in a big house near Thien
Quang Lake on Nguyen Du. After
Dien Bien Phu and the French War,
the Communist Party took it as their
headquarters. Before the war my
whole family had lived there my
parents, uncles, aunts and cousins. My
grandfather Vi Van Bic was the governor
of the Lang Son Province and had five
official wives. There were about 10 kids
living in this big house, we had a whole
room of toys just for us. Though he was
busy, my grandfather monitored our
education closely. After school we had

tutors and extra classes. He also asked
us to keep diaries and write everything
that happened throughout our day, that
way he could know what was happening
in the house and he could use the
information to resolve conflict.
I remember one naughty thing we did.
At home we always ate western food and
we were sick of it. One afternoon seven or
eight of us sneaked into the kitchen during
naptime and stole some sweet potatoes.
We started to grill them on the stove
when we heard some noises and knew

Grandfather had woken up. I panicked
and pulled the sweet potato off the stove
quickly and accidentally burnt my sister
who started crying. Grandfather found
out. To teach us not to steal he made us sit
in a circle looking at the sweet potatoes in
the middle. We were not allowed to have
them until we asked nicely.
This is the second excerpt from Julie Volas
work, Recalling Hanoi. The work will be
serialised in Word over the coming months. For
more information email juls.vola@gmail.com
hanoi
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE
SOCIETY (HITS)
hoan kiem
THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com
LESPACE
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT /

CLASSES / GROCERIES & LIQUOR
PARIS DELI
B i
Triu
Hng
Hu
Phan
Chu
Trin
h
Q u
n S
inh Ti
n H o n g
Hng
Phng
H n g G
Hng iu
Hng
Phng
Qun
Nguy
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Trn
Hn
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L Vn H u
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Hn T
uyn
MODEL CLUB
CATWALK BAR
45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung
8pm to late
PHUC TAN
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan
Kiem
RELAX BAR
HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem
ROOFTOP
SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B
Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3946 1901
8am to midnight
TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE
ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem
tadioto.com
Located close to the Opera
House, this alternative, arty
bar is garnished in red and
white on the outside, with
warm brown and tones of
blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging
Shanghai and San Francisco,
engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the
latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.
ZONE 17
BAMBOO BAR
17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem
The first bar in what will
eventually (hopefully) be a
CAF / BOULANGERIE
6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269
7.30am to 11pm
Time has been good to this
airy, bistro-style caf and
patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital,
despite its prime location
prices remain reasonable
espresso-style coffees cost
around VND40,000 and
the cakes and croissants
are moreish. Also does filled
baguettes and a larger cafcum-restaurant menu. Has a
second establishment at 13
Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
Tin
nh D
Kh
Trn
FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
6282 5555
Hoteldelopera.com
7am to 2am
La Fe Verte (or the Green
Fairy) is a metaphor for the
decadence of another age,
an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The
signature bar of the Hotel
de lOpra Hanoi where, just
as in Paris at the dawn of the
20th century, the making of an
evening drink a lavish event
of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge
atmosphere, great music and
ultra-contemporary interior
design combine to bring a
genuine sense of occasion to
after-dark in the capital.
CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem
facebook.com/bar84hanoi
Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable
sofa-like seating and grungy
decor related to a past make
up the mix at this venue put
together by the people behind Barbetta.
+84 BAR
g
Hn
WILD WEST THEME BAR

98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822
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Trn
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Kh
Thi
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17 COWBOYS
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BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
L Thi T
Ngu
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Du
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Nguyn
Tri Ph
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D
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L Thi T
Trn
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Ch
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H
Ph
Thi
Cu G
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Trn
Hn
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L Dun
Tel: (04) 3825 0216

7am to 8pm
n
Bi
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Tr
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Xu
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H
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Bi
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Trn
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LA FE VERTE
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Cu
Ph
Hong Di
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Y
HOAN KIEM
DISTRICT
zone dedicated to bars and

restaurants. A pool table, a
square bar in the middle of
the room and a barbecue until the early hours theres
quite an atmosphere in this
pleasant watering hole.
CAFES
CIAO CAF
RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3934 1494
7am to 11pm
A stones throw from the
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
this Saigonese franchise
tries its hand with a variety
of different western dishes
at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and
a steady, young Vietnamese
crowd, the establishment is
a great place to squash a
sandwich or bowl of pasta
and people watch. Oh, and
they also do coffee, too.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,
Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
TWITTER BEANS COFFEE

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760
twitterbeanscoffee.com
CINEMAS
CINEMATHEQUE
ARTS CINEMA
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648
Not a movie theatre per se,
but a private film club that
charges a membership fee in
return for entrance to a wide
selection of movies, new and
old. The management has
an eclectic taste and shows
films from all over the world.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES

AMERICAN CLUB
EVENT SPACE
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 1850
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

Tel: (04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com
EAT
AL FRESCOS
23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
ANGELINA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
11.30am to 2.30pm and
6.30am to late (restaurant)
11am to 2am (bar)
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts of
meat to the table for patrons
to pick and choose, all for a
set price. They also offer wine
pairings, a salad bar and an a
la carte menu, with a creative
selection of fruit caipirinhas
on hand to wash it all down.
The prices arent for anyone
on a budget, but the amount
and quality of meat is more
than worth cost.
CAF LAUTREC
MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
6282 5555
6am to 10pm
Featuring both -la-carte
and buffet dining as well
as an innovative Sunday
brunch, this namesake of the
French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a
mixture of international and
Mediterranean-style fare.
Has an extensive wine list
to match the cuisine, which
is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired
environment.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
Tel: (04) 3824 7280
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contem-
porary and thoughtfully

designed space over three
floors. Already with venues
in Saigon and Bangkok, the
essence of this popular
chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay, but everything
from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to
head to El Gaucho.
JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388
alfrescogroup.com
9.30am to midnight
Then newest venture from
the team behind Jaspas
and Pepperonis is an all-day
eating and drinking lounge fit
for all occasions. It has three
floors for different vibes
lounge bar, restaurant and
boardroom but fine imported steads can be found
on each, as well as seafood
and a huge wine list. A popular venue.
JASPAS
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba
Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
6.30am to midnight
Recently refurbished, the
Australian-influenced Jaspas is known for its attentive
service, tasty food and large
portions. A place with something for everyone, it has
proved itself to be popular
with both the western and
Asian expat communities
who come back again and
again. The comprehensive
menu is a fusion of western
and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is
mainly New World. Also has
a spacious bar and lounge
area that stays open late for
all the live sport.
LA BADIANE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3942 4509
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to
10pm. Closed Sunday night.
A white-washed, colonial
era villa replete with period
wooden shutters greets you
as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.
Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or
take to the leafy covered
terrace out back with its
walls lined with art and photography from 21st century
Hanoi. The menu here mixes
modern Gallic cuisine with a
touch of Mediterranean and
Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an
extensive wine list and an
excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.
hanoi
LE BEAULIEU
THE PROMOTIONS
CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15
Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3826 6919
6am to 10am, 11.30am
to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to
10.30pm
PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH
LUNO DAUTUNNO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823
7338
11am to 11pm
This old-favourite Italian
uses traditional wood ovens
to prepare some of the citys
finest pizzas, which range
from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.
Set inside a large, thoughtful
space seasoned chefs also
make fresh pastas, soups
and cheeses the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights
make it well worth a visit, as
does the large wine list and
choice of desserts.
Ring in the Summer at

Daewoo Hotel
Summer dining just got a little
sweeter with Daewoo Hotels Caf
Promenade, who throughout the
month of June, is offering those that
book a table for three to 20 guests
free use of their lush garden pool.
Enjoy a BBQ dinner of succulent
delicacies, premium meat and sweet
dessert temptations while lounging
in the refreshing waters of Hanois
largest pool.
Daewoo Hotel is located at 360 Kim
Ma, Ba Dinh. Find more information
on specials at daewoohotel.com
NINETEEN 11
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang
3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm
Fortuna and Vietnam

Airlines Team Up
Fortuna Hotel Hanoi and Vietnam
Airlines are joining forces from Jun.
1 for Golden Lotus Plus members,
who can earn double miles when
booking qualifying hotel nights
between Jun. 1 and Aug. 31 this
year. Members who stay at Fortuna
Hotels luxurious Hanoi location
will earn 1,000 miles for each
qualifying night.
For more information on the
promotion, and to find out which
nights qualify, visit fortuna.vn or email
reservation@fortuna.vn. Fortuna Hotel
is located at 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh
Sunday brunch features a collection

of lobsters, sushi, and pan fried foie
gras among other treats starting
from VND999,000++ per person.
Enjoy a free flow of beer and soft
drinks while the kids have fun
at the Special Kids Corner with
games and prizes.
French Grill Restaurant is
celebrating Fathers Day on Jun.
15 with a special set menu and a
Beer and Football at
free flow of soft drinks, beer or
Highway 4
wine from VND1.6 million ++.
As the excitement for the World
From 6pm to 11pm, the set menu
Cup 2014 in Brazil heats up along
created by Chef Raphael and his
with the Hanoian heat, Highway 4 culinary team features the best
Restaurant is cooling things down
in the restaurants famous open
in all the best ways with beer!
kitchen. Still looking for something
From Jun. 12 until Jul. 13, get six
to celebrate the dad in your life?
bottles of the same beer for the price Head to JW Marriotts spa for the
of four, and enjoy them alongside
Gentlemens Journey spa package,
all of Highway 4s delicious
paired with a complimentary high
Vietnamese favourites.
tea for two at The Lounge.
Highway 4s World Cup beer
The busy work day is easy to
promotion is valid at all of the
wind down from at JW Marriotts
restaurants locations nationwide, and Antidote Bar, with cocktail happy
is valid from Jun. 12 until Jul. 13
hour from 6pm to 9pm every
Tuesday to Saturday. Enjoy buy
June at JW Marriott Hanoi one, get two deals on cocktails,
Hotel
draught beer and house beverages.
JW Marriott Hanoi Hotel is
JW Marriott Hanoi Hotel is locate
ringing in the heat of the summer
at 8 Do Duc Duc, Tu Liem, and online
with plenty of delicious deals.
at jwmarriotthanoi.com
The ground floor Caf Restaurant
brings to the month of June buffets Melia Celebrates Dads
Melia Hotel Hanoi celebrates
featuring delicacies from five
fathers on Sunday, Jun. 15 at El
regions around the world. The
PANE E VINO
Lobster at the Daewoo
Patio Restaurant, with their lunch

buffet featuring some new treats
just for dad. Along with delicious
Mediterranean delicacies, each
father will get a special gift
prepared at the restaurant.
The buffet will be served from
11.30am to 2.30pm, and is priced
at VND905,000++ per adult and
VND515,000++ for children, with
free flow of house wine, draught
beer and soft drinks.
Melia Hotel Hanoi is located at
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem
PAN-ITALIAN
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
8am to 10.30pm
Just a stroll away from the
Hanoi Opera House and
Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart
of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves
up authentic Italian food
and has done for as long as
anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated,
oven fresh pizzas and large
variety of pasta and salad
dishes look forward to fine
food done well at this eatery
that has the feel of Europe.
Huge wine lists, friendly staff
and a loveable owner.
PRESS CLUB
Summit Summer
Summit Lounge has plenty in
store for the month of June, with
live music, drinks deals and sunset
specials. Head in on the evening of
Jun. 21 to enjoy a night of cabaret
music. For the brave of heart, the
night is also a chance to perform
on stage yourself with the promise
of complimentary drinks.
On weekends, cool off from
the summer heat with the new
Summit Ice Cool menu, with
scrumptious ice cream and
international beers. Enjoy your
work week, too, with Martini
Mondays, Whiskey Wednesdays
and daily sunset half-price deals
on refills.
Sofitel Plaza Hanois Summit
Lounge is located at 1 Thanh Nien,
Ba Dinh
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To,
0888
hanoi-pressclub.com
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm
to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday
lunch
Wooden flooring, paneling
and bold but subtle colours
pervade this traditional but
contemporary, fine-dining
70-seater venue close to
the Opera House. Serving
up quality cuisine for over a
decade, Press Club boasts
a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine
room, a library and a vast
selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four
excellent wine pairing menus,
put together through the aid
of the Press Clubs extensive
new and old world wine list.
Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.
hanoi
n
A n Dng V g
TAY HO
DISTRICT
g
n
g V
Tn
u C
GROCERIES & LIQUOR
Ngu
yn
Ho
ng
CITIMART
Xu
PANE E VINO WINE SHOP
WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
This Italian favourite with a
huge food menu also has a
huge for-retail wine list that
is 100 percent focused on
fine wines and liquors from
Italy. Owner Hoang has great
knowledge of Italian wine and
a passion to match, which is
sure to land you with the best
wine for any occasion.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04)
3943 7226
WORK ROOM FOUR
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

Packexim Building Tower 1,
23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15,
An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho
workrmfour@gmail.com
workrmfour.tumblr.com
A place to work. A space to
create. Somewhere to see
something new. Work Room
Four is pulling together the
threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas,
exhibitions, workshops,
artist studios, courses, contacts and events.
BARS & CLUBS

88 LOUNGE
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 8029
88group.vn
5pm to late
A wine bar with a difference,
this addition to the watering
hole scene in West Lake
mixes contemporary design,
black ceilings, subtle lighting
and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine
lists in town. Not surprisingly
it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.
WESTERN CANNED FOODS
GROCERY STORE
Tel: (04) 3934 3854
Ni
Thanh
Bi
N guyn Phong S c
ARTS
HANOI ROCK CITY
LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Thm
g
Ho
Tel: 01633 166170

hanoirockcity.com
5pm to midnight
With a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an
upstairs space dedicated to
live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the
only venue in the capital
of its kind. Has weekly live
events featuring bands both
from Vietnam and overseas
established and up and
coming. Email jimihendrix@
hanoirockcity.com for more
information or check out
their page on Facebook.
HOUSE OF SON TINH
LIQUOR LOUNGE
(04) 3718 6377
sontinh.com
8am to 11.30pm
As part of the Highway 4
group, which now has its
offices in the establishments upstairs areas, this
bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish
furnishings is famed for its
luxurious rice wine liquors
and newly created cocktail
class. Does regular events
on the first floor and also
has a creative Vietnamese
food menu based on cuisine
sold at other restaurants in
the chain.
RED RIVER TEA ROOM
LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho
Open daily from 2pm.
Ph
Qun Th
Phan
nh P
h n g
nh
VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET
22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
n
Y
INTIMEX
Th
Ho
n
HANOI GOURMET
DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3943 1009
Hanoigourmet.com
The long-running Hanoi
Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and
artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a
look at the deli and sit down
for a light snack.
oa
SUPERMARKET
27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
Ho
n
Hong Quc Vit
FIVIMART
Tm
WINE RETAILER
Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3941 2789
Daloc.vn
hi
Ng
c Long Qun
DA LOC
BIKING CAFE
so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho
kub.vn
Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub
Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole
bringing thats become a favorite of the motorbike clubs.
Does good on-the-table bia
hoi and runs biking events.
BOOKWORM TOO
u
Di
u
SUPERMARKET
Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers,
Tel: (04) 3934 2999
KUB CAFE
regulars drinking out front

on plastic stools. Notorious
for its mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh to order,
Tracys is most famous for
their draft beers, claiming
to serve the coldest draft
beer in Hanoi, and always
in a frosted mug. For those
missing their dose of North
American sports, they play
all day via satellite on two
plasmas.
BOOK SHOPS
5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza,

24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: (04) 3824 3718
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and
bright pastel colours of
Wrap n Roll are just part
of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand
which is all about spring rolls
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with
two restaurants in Hanoi
the second in Royal City.
ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES /
CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES
Qu
n
WRAP & ROLL
salads, soups, ice cream,

muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
tay ho
Lo
ng
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414
hoteldelopera.com
Lc
SATINE
Located on the lakeside lane

just below Xuan Dieu, this
warm, quiet and friendly
pub offers a selection of international and local beers,
wine, cocktails and a nice
view of West Lake. Serving
pies and pasties from The
Cart, Vietnamese food from
Dieus next door, or delivery
from nearby favorites. Nonsmoking, unpretentious,
dog-friendly.
TAY TAP
MEET-UP SPOT
100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6917
4pm to late
Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar
with two beers on tap as
well as wine, cocktails and
spirits on the shelves this
newcomer venue has a grill
menu catering to the tastes
of both East and West. For
those in search of a good
old-fashioned Sloppy Joe
or grilled cheese, youll be
glad to know the kitchen is
stocked to the ceiling with
comfort foods.
TRACYS PUB AND GRILL
SPORTS BAR/GRILL
40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel:
(04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
11am to 12am
This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the
main drag of Xuan Dieu is
perpetually crowded with
NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS

1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay
Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
CAFES
COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
7am to 10pm
Finally the newest addition
to the Hanoi coffee scene
has opened a little closer to
town than the first outlet in
Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee
Bean is a multilevel, indoor/
outdoor caf overlooking
Westlake. With its LA coffee
and office feel, when you
walk in you might just forget
that youre in Westlake.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CHAIN
Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
7am to 11pm
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
COFFEE/BAKERY
43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6071
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
LA GRACE
ART CAFE & GALLERY

8B/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: 0912 666736
lagrace.com.vn
7.15am to 10pm
Located on a peaceful
street named after the famous painter, To Ngoc Van,
La Grace is a destination
for those who appreciate
lifes pleasures: drinks,
food, arts and sometimes
live music. Clean, comfortable and friendly, the venue
has a nice selection of
juices and smoothies and a
Vietnamese-cum-Japanese
food menu put together using organic vegetables. Set
lunches cost VND150,000,
and the caf also has strong
WiFi as well as separate nonsmoking and smoking areas.
SAINT HONORE
CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3933 2355
st.honorehn@gmail.com
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this
cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in
the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk
through the door. Serving
all day long, the downstairs
space is split into the bakery
on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the
other. The homely upstairs
lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.
Simple but tasty French and
international fare is served
at meal times.
TET DCOR CAF
ART CAF & ESPRESSO BAR

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai,
Tay Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
8am to 6pm, Tuesday to
Sunday
Cloistered among the back

streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan
Dieu, TET Dcor Caf is a destination for those who appreciate
lifes pleasures: coffee, food, art
and music. Simple and unpretentious, the caf has an oldfashioned warmth and rustic
feel combined with unique and
inspiring art installations.
A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these

well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will
guide you through the secrets of
Vietnamese cooking in an open
air courtyard.
HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS

VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE
68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 848301
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small cozy caf and sandwich
bar hidden away in Nghi Tam
Village. Serves and delivers tasty
baguettes, homemade juices,
quiches, pies, muffins and cakes.
The delivery service is quick and
reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE

(THBC)
CAF / TAPAS BAR

44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
9am to 10pm
Tucked down an alleyway just
off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle
Collective is not just a place for
all bicycle lovers, but a caf that
also sells Spanish tapas served
up with gin & tonic, if the mood
so takes you. Organising bicycle
tours, running yoga sessions
and holding music concerts in
their upstairs cafe area, they
also sell, rent and fix bikes and
are an official supplier of TREK
and SURLY cycling equipment.
Eclectic? Not a chance!
CLOTHING
GEORGES FASHION BOUTIQUE
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6233
With new styles arriving in store
every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses,
shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported
fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from
petite to average to the generous
figure. Alterations and a madeto-measure service are available
at no extra cost.
LATELIER
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

3718 6758
ateliervietnam.com
Stocks womens wear, leather
bags, shoes and handicrafts.
This chic boutique offers both
ready-to-wear and made-to-fit
clothing.
COOKING CLASSES
HIDDEN HANOI
COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912
254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BETTERWORLD
GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Fair trade or bought directly
from the artisans who made
them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the
world as well as second-hand
books, DVDs and more.
LA CASA
CONTEMPORARY DESIGN
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084
lacasavietnam.com.vn
A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other
household objects, this spot
has everything from beds and
bookshelves, to tableware and
silverware. The items are all
locally made by skilled artisans
from Hanoi and the surrounding
regions.
MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development nonprofit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories.
Styles vary from traditional to
patterned and Asian-inspired.
Founded in 2001 and with
outposts in several locations
around the region, the shop
employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an income and care for their families.
CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS

DONS TAY HO
BICYCLE RENTALS
3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
THANG LONG CYCLING
CYCLING SHOP
152 Yen Hoa, Tay Ho, Tel: 0986
866538
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE

(THBC)
CYCLING COLLECTIVE
44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
Tucked down an alleyway just
off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle
Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of
TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but
also rents and fixes bicycles. To
add to the eclectic, community
spirit they also organise bicycle

tours, run yoga sessions, hold
music concerts in their upstairs
cafe area and run a great menu
of Spanish tapas served up, if
you so wish, with gin & tonic.
Quite a mix!
EAT
AL FRESCOS
3719 5322
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
DA PAOLO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai
Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317
11am to 11pm
This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to
the famed lawn chair and coconut caf on West Lake has
all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long
time former manager of Luna
DAutunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas
from VND120,000 and other
Italian delicacies. Open every
day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.
DALUVA
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
3718 5831
daluva.com
8am until late
A popular hang-out for expats
and trendy Vietnamese in the
Xuan Dieu area on West Lake.
This bar and restaurant offers
casual dining with a classy,
Middle-Eastern twist, as well as
wine, tapas, events and attractive dcor.
DONS TAY HO
CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
Monday to Friday, 10am to late.
Weekends 8am to late
This lake-facing venue with
its top floor Oyster Bar is the
work of charismatic Canadian
restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing
on comfort food done well, the
main restaurant menu includes
anything from wood-grilled rare
tuna steak with fragrant Chinese
black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such
as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with
crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range
of imported oysters and has an
extensive wine list.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and
preparation with great service
in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three

floors. Already with venues in
Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is
quality top grade meats off the
grill. Steak is the mainstay, but
everything from chicken, pork
and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting
and an extensive wine list and
thats another reason to head to
El Gaucho.
HALIA HANOI
SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY
INTERNATIONAL
3946 0121
thehalia.com
Monday Saturday 11am to
11pm. Closed on Sundays
A multi-floored venue with a bar
area and a refined dining space.
The menu includes Singaporean
specialities such as the shrimp
satay salad and the chilli crab
spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light
Asian flavours is also on offer.
Has an extensive wine list.
HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD

GRILL
CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD
Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to
10pm
The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering
both the Northern and Southern
hemispheres. Choose from Black
Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye,
Rump and Tenderloin grilled to
perfection. Prefer Seafood
no problem, Lobster, Oysters,
Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and
Crabs are all available for your
dining pleasure, as well as an
impressive array of wines by the
glass & bottle from our
IL FARO
ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN
Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 6327 1142
Hidden away in Cong Doan Hotel,
this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned by the same people
behind Mediterraneo serves up
an assortment of French, Spanish and Italian dishes in a pleasant, white-washed yet Italianinfluenced atmosphere.
J.A.F.A.
INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3758 2400
7am to 11pm
One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is
a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages
are not the cheapest, but this
is made up for by service and
ambiance. They also have a full
menu featuring familiar western
dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large par-
hanoi
BOOK BUFF
THE EPICUREANS
Souvenirs and memories: this month Bookworms Truong looks at books that capture
a moment in the life of Vietnam
ts that time of the year when people

are leaving Hanoi for good or off
overseas to see relatives and friends to
escape the summer heat. Lots want to
take a photography book as a souvenir to
remind them of their time in the city or
show those friends and relatives what an
exotic spot theyve holed up in.
For a couple of years now books in this
genre have been as scarce as hens teeth
and a lot of the books that have been
around for years are getting dated, while
some perennial favorites are out of print.
But Things Asian Press has filled in the
2014 gap with a reasonably priced, soft
cover volume thats jam packed full of
photographic images that you wish youd
personally captured the last time you saw
them. Best of all, its not full of trite or
condescending text.
American editor and photographer,
Elizabeth Rush, is a former expat and a
dab hand with the camera. She has got
together a bunch of five, youngish and
experienced Hanoian photographers to
join her and photograph the vibrancy of
Hanoi.
The result is a work by Elizabeth,
Vietnamese nationals Maika Elan and
Nguyen The Son, Viet Kieu Mathew
Dakin and former Word Magazine
photographer Aaron Joel Santos. It will
be a sure sellout and will set the standard
for all future general photography books
about Vietnam. It may even scare a
few photographic wishful thinkers in a
different direction.
If you havent come across Lost and
Found Hanoi yet Id suggest that you get
a wriggle on as books of this calibre are a
once-in-a-decade phenomenon.
Remembering Hanoi
Another nice choice is from 2011 and
was a joint project of French urban
development group IMV and the Hanoi
Peoples Committee. Its trilingual
(English, Vietnamese and French) and
though the accompanying text is more
personal to the compilers, it manages to
stay away from teeth-grinding clichs.
Hanoi: From One City to Another is still
very relevant and the images will be
appreciated by people who have gotten
off the beaten track and explored with
their eyes wide open. Photographers
Vincent Bertholon and Clement Musil
take you on a visual journey that
will make a lot of readers smile with
recognition. Berthelons pen and ink and
watercolor sketches add to the books
appeal
Its a hardcover, coffee-table type of
book literally stitched together in the
old Vietnamese way by the Van Hoa
Publishing House, and this adds to its
charm.
Marguerite Duras
Some people collect selections of prose
or poetry rather than visual images,
and as this year is the centenary of the
birth of one of Vietnams most creative
expats, Marguerite Duras, who was born
in Saigon to a French couple and who
returned to France at 17 after a love affair
with Vietnamese-Chinese merchant,
Huyen Thuy Le, its hard to go past four
of her memoir-cum-novels. Imbued with
memories of her adolescent years in the
Mekong Delta they move between life in
Sa Dec, Saigon and the mangrove reaches
of Cambodia.
The most famous novel is The Lover, a

story that traces the sensual paths of its
unnamed protagonists between Saigon
and the pretty river town of Sa Dec.
Duras honours the Asian male as a sexy
being, beautiful and worthy of art and
love. She expressed this first through the
naked, masculine Japanese body in her
1959 screenplay for the film Hiroshima
Mon Amour. This was also given potency
in the form of the Chinese character in
The Lover.
Readers who have grown up under
the dominion of a depressive mother will
empathize strongly with the girl. Females
who were considered second rate to their
male siblings will cheer her on.
The 1992 movie of the book was
released to critical acclaim. Faithful both
to the text and period, it is bewitching. If
youve read the book or seen the movie
and youre exploring the rivers that make
up The Mekong Delta, you cant help
but be reminded of the scene early in the
novel where the 15-and-a-half-year-old
girl meets the elegant young man in the
black chauffer-driven limousine.
Shes wearing a dress of real, sepiacoloured silk that used to belong to her
mother, one of her brothers belts, a mans
fedora hat, and a pair of worn, gold lame
high heels, decorated with little diamente
flowers.
The other Duras novels and memoirs
that evoke her Indochinese adolescence
are The Sea Wall, Eden Cinema and The
North China Lover. Once taken in by the
Duras magic youll understand why
the French are intent on celebrating her
centenary.
ties or dinner functions. Periodic

buffets and drink specials are
also offered.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
3718 5656
8am to 11pm
KITCHEN
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE

3719 2679
hungskitchen@gmail.com
7am to 9pm
Set inside a newly renovated
house with a large courtyard,
Kitchen is a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check
out the breakfast burrito), the
creatively titled sandwiches and
the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm)
and an innovative smattering of
healthy, smoothie-style drinks.
R&R TAVERN
RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6295 8215
Now on its third location, this
watering hole still lives up to
its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter,
and of course, some quality live
rock music. Its upstairs area
is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly
shows and events, while the
downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing
touch to the friendly community
environment.
RASA SINGAPURA
SINGAPORE PERANAKAN CUISINE

185 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3715 2992
rasasingapura-hanoi.com
5pm to midnight
This Singapore Peranakan Restaurant serves up authentic,
Straits fusion fare emanating
from Singapore, Malacca and
Penang. Boasting the mouthwatering nasi lemak as its signature
dish, all the fare here is homecooked by the owner / partner
who spent five years living and
studying in Singapore. This is
tasty, home-cooked, well-priced
fare in a pleasant but tranquil
setting.
SAINT HONORE
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
3933 2355
sainthonore.com.vn
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this bakery
and French-style
bistro is best visited in the
morning when that Gallic, freshcooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as
you walk through the door. The
downstairs space is split into the
bakery on one side with a small
non-smoking dining space on the
other. The upstairs lounge area
has standard tables as well as
sofa seating. Simple French

and international fare is served
at meal times. Has additional
venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba
Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc
Thach, Dong Da
THE PIE SHOP
TAKEAWAY PIES
2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena
Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 1507
thepieshophanoi@gmail.com
Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style
savoury pies and rolls. Available
in three convenient sizes (mini,
regular and large). Enjoy them
hot as a takeaway, or frozen to
keep for later.
THE SUSHI CLUB
CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE
10A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0934
544263
thesushiclub.info
The Akataiyo Group has operated Japanese restaurants in Vietnam for over 10 years. Located
up from Dons, the latest addition
The Sushi Club combines
traditional Japanese cuisine with
modern fare, serving up sushi,
sashimi, ramen and gyoza. A
comfy ambience, this eatery is
perfect for dates, business dinners, meeting friends and family gatherings. Private rooms
available.
EXPAT SERVIES
MAID IN VIETNAM
HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES
Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 3112
maidinvietnam.com
Offering a licensed hire service
for trained domestic and office
housemaids, cooks and nannies.
Courses include health checks,
housekeeping, safety, basic 1st
Aid, courses for external maids
and household management for
Vietnamese wives of foreigners.
FITNESS & YOGA

ELITE FITNESS
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

3718 6281
elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment,
separate cardio and spinning
areas and an indoor swimming
pool with a retractable roof. The
spacious studios and natural
light make it a welcoming place
to squeeze in a work out, but be
prepared to pay. This place is top
of the range.
HANOI CLUB
COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823
8115
thehanoiclub.com
VIETCLIMB
CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel:
0914 143185
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find,
VietClimb is a French-owned,
200-meter climbing gym with
state-of-the-art courses. There
are 100 different climbing routes
within the gym that are changed
every few months. They offer
clinics, classes and childrens
events. Membership and group
rates are available, but be sure
to check out the three-month
pass.
ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923
0253
An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety
of levels and styles, including
prenatal and postnatal classes,
restorative yoga, pilates and tai
chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates
mats, books, clothes, soaps,
Himalayan products and other
essential yoga equipment.
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS
ANNAM GOURMET
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 4487
FIVIMART
SUPERMARKET
Second Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1791
KITCHEN ART
KITCHENWARE
6680 2770
kitchenart.vn
Kitchen Art is a little haven for
all foodies, cooks and bakers
to grow their love and passion
for cooking and baking. Come to
Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients
to cook like a chef, take part in
regular demonstrations and
workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying
the peaceful West Lake view.
L'S PLACE
GROCERY SHOP
3719 9911
NATURALLY VIETNAM
ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130
naturallyvietnam.com
Offers food and beverage
produced in Vietnam with full
traceability and strict food
safety controls. Meat, egg, milk,
fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit
juices, liquors, coffee, water,
ice cream. Also, every Saturday
from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the
team convert the store yard into
the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a
cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for
expats and Vietnamese.
PUNTO ITALIA
COFFEE MACHINES
6258 3510
puntoitalia.asia
Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace
or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their
own brand coffee in capsules,
ready ground or as the original
roasted mix of beans.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04)
3719 8337
THE OASIS
ITALIAN DELI
3719 1196
A great place to get all kinds of
imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads
and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of
fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a
fantastic deli and cheese case.
Free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3718 3701
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams ultimate premium wine importer,
distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest
wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The
portfolio mixes the best of both
old and new world wines.
MEDICAL & DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

3934 0666
Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic also
known for its quality emergency
services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of
services from standard GP-style
check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist
care.
ONE DENTAL CLINIC
DENTISTS
8 Quang An, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 6168
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL

CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555
westcoastinternational.com
The Westcoast International
Dental Clinic is composed of
dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental
services throughout Vietnam.
The clinic provides the highest
quality technology, comfort and
after-service care to patients.
hanoi
THE ALCHEMIST
THE SOUND OF MUSIC
lancing through last months

issue of Word, I was inspired
by its feature on music. I
immediately thought of the
Fibonacci Sequence, the seemingly
magical fractal equation that can be
found in compositions throughout
nature, art and music. The spiraling
pattern created by the sequence can be
observed in the smallest to the largest
objects in the natural world.
Music, itself, is also magical. It possesses
the alchemical ability to transport us back in
time, to change our mood and to heal us.
spiritual and physical state.

Sound healing is not a New Age
phenomenon, the art and science of
vibrational sound healing dates back
thousands of years. In recent times, the
discovery of the medical benefits of
ultrasound treatments has lead to an
Sound Healing
According to holistic healing pioneer, Dr.
John Diamond, The basic purpose of music
is to be therapeutic, to raise the life energy
of the listener. Music affects us in subtle yet
profound ways, touching our subconscious
and altering our state of being.
Our meridian energy system responds to
sounds well above our audible threshold.
Simply put, our bodies hear sounds we are
unable to hear with our ears.
Noise stresses the body whereas natural
sounds have the ability to raise our life energy
and thereby enhance our mental, emotional,
expansion in the application of sound healing

therapies.
Modern astrophysicist, Trinh Xuan Thuan,
states, If the cosmos is vast it is by no means
silent. Nature delights in continuously
sending us her notes of music. It is believed
that sound has structured the universe and,
BY KAREN GAY
as such, sound waves are responsible for the

structure of everything we see around us
including every bone, muscle and organ in
our body.
Get in Tune
Dr. Deepak Chopra notes, The body is held
together by sound the presence of disease
indicates that some sounds have gone out
of tune. When the body frequencies are
in harmony, the body is healthy, when the
body frequencies are out of harmony, disease
occurs. Sound healing therapies help to tune
the different chakras, meridians, organs and
glands of the body, restoring them to their
unique natural frequencies. When the bodys
frequencies are balanced and the rhythm or
flow of energy re-established, the natural
healing processes of the body can take place.
The sounds that we hear carry an energy
vibration that affects us in different ways.
Some sounds can be uplifting, others calming,
while others may have a negative effect on us.
Music is like medicine for our body, mind and
soul choose it wisely.
Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a
holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi.
For information on the types of services provided,
visit a-roamingbodyworker.com
hanoi
Reservations recommended.
ba dinh
MING PALACE
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT /
FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

BARBETTA
ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3734 9134
ETE BAR
FRENCH LOUNGE
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 751331
10am to midnight
A favourite among those who
roam further west of the
city centre, this multi-storey
restobar has been going
strong for more than two
years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar
guarding exactly 50 different
cocktails. For many the Ete
burger is right on the mark
as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. Its always
crowded especially during the weekends. Amiable
staff, pleasant vibes.
SUMMIT LOUNGE
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3823 8888 ext. 5314
4pm to Midnight Sunday to
Wednesday, 4pm to 2am
Thursday to Saturday
BOOKSHOPS
BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi
CAFES
CAF GOETHE
ARTS CAF
56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 3734 7395
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 2247 0602
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CHAIN
28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh
(Next to the Flag Tower) Tel:
(04) 3823 3339
7am to 11pm
MANZI
ARTS CAF & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
A stunningly designed contemporary caf and events
space that screams out the
words modern art. Housed
in a converted colonial-era
villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows
make up the mix here. Great
cuisine, too.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES

GOETHE INSTITUT
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh
Tel: (04) 3734 2251
goethe.de/hanoi
COOKING CLASSES
HANOI COOKING CENTRE
COOKING CENTRE
(04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a
school, retail outlet and caf,
where you can find classes
on not just Vietnamese
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3771 6372
10am to midnight
inh T
in H o n g
Hng
Bi
Q u n
Phng
Nguyn
Tri Ph
ng
B Tr
i u
Ho
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04)

3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
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ing an international version

of the mighty curry they
even sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the
northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza,
korma and the more Goan
vindaloo taking centre stage.
Also has a good range of
breads and tandoor-cooked
kebabs.
n
Y
BA DINH
DISTRICT
Trn Nhn Tng
cooking, but international

cuisine, held in a beautiful
setting. They also offer culinary tours.
EAT
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts
of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all
for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar
and an a la carte menu, with
a creative selection of fruit
caipirinhas on hand to wash
it all down. The prices arent
for anyone on a budget, but
the amount and quality of
meat is more than worth
cost.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3716 2959
10am to 10.30pm
Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history
that screams empathy make
this eatery one of the most
popular Indians in town. Sell-
HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT

SONG THU
(04) 3942 4448
hoasuaschool.com
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
MATCHBOX
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3734 3098
11am to 11pm
MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE
PAN-CHINESE
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
Elegant and luxurious, May
Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.
Showcasing a selection of
authentic Chinese culinary
delights and Yum Cha at its
finest, with seven private
dining rooms this is a place
to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim
sum menus and set menus.
PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
A fine dining destination at
the Sofitel Plaza serving
Cantonese and pan-Chinese
cuisine in a sleek modern
setting with private dining
rooms. With more than 80
dim sum selections available
along with Chinese entrees,
Mings is an ideal eatery for
those hungry for higher end
Chinese fare.
THE BISTRO
FRENCH FLAIR
2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3726 4782
thebistro.com.vn
7.30am to 9pm
A modern eatery offering
western cuisine with shades
of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink
and food deals and a warm
indoor atmosphere you
know, just how the French
do it.
FITNESS & YOGA

N SHAPE FITNESS
MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi
Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
MEDICAL & DENTAL

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE
MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
On the little street directly
below Kim Ma, with all sorts
of specialists including OB/
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT.
A Medium-sized practice
with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they
are used to treating expats.
Also a 24-hour emergency
service.
Do you think you should be

listed on these pages? If so,
simply email us on
listings@wordvietnam.com
and well see what we can
do. We cant promise but
well try our best
hanoi
THE THERAPIST
This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health
counsellor, talks about how to deal with mid-life crisis
Dear Douglas,
What is a mid-life crisis? How do I know
if it is why my husband is acting so weird
lately? Hes 42 and he suddenly wants get a
tattoo and take an expensive vacation to go
bungee jumping while around the house
he is often restless, unhappy and is drinking
more than he ever used to. He just doesnt
seem to be himself. What is wrong with
him? Will I ever get back the man I know?
Jamie
Dear Jamie,
It is commonly understood that during the
mid-life years many people go through a
period of transition. Sometimes it can be
confusing and disruptive to the continuity
of life, especially family life, and at other
times it is a less obvious rearrangement
of priorities. Your husband seems to be
exhibiting some of the classic qualities of a
mid-life crisis. He is feeling discontentment
with the status quo restless, unhappy
and drinking. And he is imagining options
that might spice up the excitement factor
tattoos and thrill seeking vacations.
One way to consider what happens
during midlife years (35 to 45) is to think in
terms of how our life looks. Is it what we
would want it to be or what we imagined
it would be? Many of us get well into
adulthood, having made decisions about
career and marriage and family along the

way, only to feel that the life we are living
is very different to what we imagined or
hoped for. It also coincides with a general
sense of decline. Our bodies look and feel
different and are less capable than they
were before. The career aspirations we
had as a younger person have come to
fruition (or not). The romantic part of our
love life is often on the wane traded
in for co-parenting and money decisions.
Often new dreams seem buried under
the responsibilities we have to raise and
pay for the needs and aspirations of our
children, and the growing feeling of
responsibility for aging parents and what it
means to care-take them. So the crisis part
of mid-life is that we start to feel like we are
no longer living according to the wants and
dreams of our own calling.
Another way to think about it has to
do with our first attempts at adapting to
the challenges life has thrown at us. As a
child or teenager we respond to life in an
automatic and instinctive way. We do what
comes natural. Sometimes those responses
are in the form of coping strategies meant
to get us through the situation or the short
run. This is done without an understanding
of what is needed sustainably, for the long
run. We often develop coping strategies to
cope with coping strategies drinking too
much is one of those as a way of muffling

nagging feelings that we should attend to
about some unresolved aspect of our life.
Mid-life can be a time when the collapse
of our coping strategies begins to generate
more intense methods of avoidance and a
heightened fear that, I cant keep going on
this way, but I dont really know anything
else. Sometimes mid-life is the time for a
serious pause: a painful look back to see
what is unresolved and needing tending
to; to develop alternative strategies of
dealing with things in a new way; and
to envision ones future through the lens
of a new optimism, more in line with the
establishment of understood priorities. This
is the work of therapy.
You might suggest to your husband that
he is in a mid-life crisis and share with him
what I have written.
There is a lot written about it that he
can explore and maybe he will consider
getting some professional help to gain
guidance through the process. It is
certainly something that can be dealt with
constructively.
Enjoy it all,
Douglas
Do you have a question you would like
Douglass help with? You can email him at
douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details
will not be printed
hanoi
Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
elsewhere
A DONG PHOTO CO
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION
RECREATION
KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL
BARS & CLUBS

CAMA ATK
MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 01262 054970
Wednesday to Saturday,
6pm to midnight
With well-poured drinks, a
foosball table, no smoking
and a midnight closing time,
CAMA ATK knows exactly
what it wants to be and
thats refreshing. The space
is a part time venue for
smaller acts and DJs. The
venue is hip, comfortable
and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable
place to pull up a stool and
take pulls in a relaxed haven.
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS
CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088
VUVUZELA
MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba
Trung
CAF 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342
7.30am to 9.30pm
FRENCH GRILL
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc
Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04)
3833 5588
facebook.com/frenchgrill
Every day 6pm to 11pm
With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in
wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy
restaurant offers guests
a service experience with
crafted food difficult to find
in the capital.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3796 2647
10am to midnight
CAFES
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai
Ba Trung
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HAM HANH
ARTSY CAFE
170 Doi Can, Dong Da
The physical representation of arts, film and music
collective, The Onion Cellar,
this cafe with multiple areas
is as left field as the people
who created it.
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7.00am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
KY Y
JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386
11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to
10.30pm, closed Sunday
SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn
11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to

9.15pm
Situated in an art-deco villa
that was once owned by
a Vietnamese mandarin,
this establishment is now
owned and run by perhaps
the most famous French chef
in the country. With modestly
priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on
the dishes, which primarily
come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up
market establishment lures
in its high class customers
with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.
rant, bar and lounge blends

the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like
profiteroles with green tea
and caf fillings, a private
chefs table with a kitchen
view, and an extensive wine
list combined with modern
formal styling bring a unique
experience to Hanoi.
WILD LOTUS
CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE

55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204
potsnpans.vn
11.30am to late
Brought to you by a group of
former disadvantaged youth
from Hanois own KOTO, this
unique fine dining restau-
ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK
ALPHA LAPTOP
95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 4418
FUONG MAY ANH

5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3213 1568
NGUYEN CAU
ICE SKATING
Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen
Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936
469799
royalcity.com.vn
1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
X-FACTORY LASER TAG
HI-TECH USA
LASER TAG
77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai
Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106
x-factory-vn.com
DK COMPUTER
29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel:
3772 4772

Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261
PICO PLAZA
Kiem
MEDICAL & DENTAL

POTS N PANS
SWIMMING POOL
Landmark 72 Tower, Pham
Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)
3772 3801
landmark72.com
128 Hang Trong, Hoan

Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732
FRENCH HOSPITAL
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

simply email us on
well try our best
PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER
CARE AND IT SERVICES
No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983
011081
VIETSAD
34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 8771
SWIMMING POOLS
ARMY HOTEL
33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896
FOUR SEASONS
14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong
Da. Tel: 3537 6250
HANOI CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8115
www.hanoi-club.com
HORISON FITNESS CENTER

40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3733 0808
MELIA HOTEL
Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343
OLYMPIA
4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049
SAO MAI
10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 3161
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS

CENTER
1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8888
THAN NHAN
EAT
ASAHI SUSHI
ELECTRONICS
LA VERTICALE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3944 6317
verticale-hanoi.com
Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung,

(Inside the park)
THANG LOI HOTEL

200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
hanoi
MEDICAL BUFF
ANTIBIOTIC RESISTANCE
ntibiotic Resistance a
Catastrophic Threat.
Reuters headline, March
2014
Antibiotic Apocalypse. A terrible future
could be on the horizon, a future which rips
one of the greatest tools of medicine out of
the hands of doctors. BBC headline
The article continues:
A simple cut to your finger could leave
you fighting for your life. Luck will play a
bigger role in your future than any doctor
could. The most basic operations getting
an appendix removed or a hip replacement
could become deadly. Cancer treatments and
organ transplants could kill you. Childbirth
could once again become a deadly moment in a
womans life. Its a future without antibiotics.
Antibiotics are powerful medicines that
fight bacterial infections. Used properly,
antibiotics can save lives. Antibiotics do not
fight infections caused by viruses, such as:
Colds and flu
Most ear infections
Sinusitis
Most coughs and bronchitis
Sore throats, unless caused by strep
Already many common illnesses can no

longer be treated with simple antibiotics
due to resistance. New superbugs such as
MRSA are emerging. Cases of totally drug
resistant tuberculosis have been identified
in the past few years.
The Cause?
According to the journal Antimicrobial
Resistance and Infection Control, the most
important cause of resistance is the
massive overuse of antibiotics worldwide
in the past decades. This is across all
ecosystems and includes humans, animals,
aquaculture, and agriculture.
Added to this is the lack of new
antibiotic technology in the pharmaceutical
pipelines. The last family of antibiotics to
be discovered was in the 1980s.
Many national and international
meetings, workshops and task forces, as
well as reports in the scientific literature
and lay press, have been dedicated to this
threat over the last decade, particularly
in 2011. But due to a lack of coordination,
there has been little impact.
Asia has the highest level of antibiotic
resistance in the world and has only very
recently recognised this critical healthcare
BY DR. DAMIEN CUMMINS
problem. In 2013 it is estimated that 83

percent of people suffering from the
common cold in China who went to see
their doctor were prescribed antibiotics.
The Netherlands, on the other hand,
has the lowest use of antibiotics in Europe
and subsequently the lowest incidence of
resistance.
A World Without Antibiotics

The harm that has been done cannot be
undone but we can all try and reduce it
further. Nobody wants to live in a world
without antibiotics, to return to return to a life
prior to Flemings discovery of Penicillin.
So here are some simple rules that we
should all follow.
Antibiotics should only be prescribed
when necessary and by doctors
The course should be finished even if
the person is feeling better
Antibiotics should not be saved for
later use or given to friends or family
Dr Damien Cummins is from the UK and
has been working for the International SOS
Hanoi Clinic since 2012. His background is
general and emergency medicine.
International SOS Hanoi Clinic is at 51
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666
hanoi
business
BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS /

MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
BUSINESS GROUPS
keychains, card holders and

menu covers.
ICHAM
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1
Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2229
icham.org
The Chamber has the main
purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and
to assist economic agents,
as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic
relations and cooperation
among entrepreneurs of
the various countries. The
Chamber will not engage in
commercial activities with
the aim of producing profits.
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2229
ccifv.org
A business group with over
240 members that supports the French business
community in Vietnam by
listening to their members
needs and expectations. Also
promotes Vietnam to French
companies and helps them in
developing their businesses
here.
EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
A confederate organisation
with strong ties to national
business associations in its
member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support
for the business interests of
European Union members in
Vietnam.
SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM

Business Center, Ground
Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B
Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: (04)
4772 0833
sbav-hanoi.org
CORPORATE SERVICES
ENDO
79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3783 2085
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
INSURANCE
AIG
Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49
Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3936 1455
aig.com.vn
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel
Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3936 5370
Emergency: 0903 732365
insuranceinvietnam.com
Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal
lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has
been operational in Vietnam
since 1994 and offers free
advice and comparative
quotes.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
BRITISH VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BVIS)
H3-H4, Hoa Lan, Vincom
Village, Long Bien, Tel: (04)
3946 0435
bvisvietnam.com
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
International brand, Concordia, has highly performing
schools in both Hong Kong
and Shanghai at the top tier
of the educational system.
All instructors and teachers
are native English speakers
and admission applications
are accepted throughout
the year.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available for
students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is
one of the few private, international education options
in the capital. The institution
offers Cambridge IGCSE and
IB Diploma for students at
the secondary level. Located
near the Japanese Embassy.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF
VIETNAM
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai
Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183

www.isvietnam.org
The International School of
Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to
Grade 12 school serving the
international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts
students of any nationality
aged 3 and up. ISV offers
an international education
experience. Highly qualified
and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century
campus with the latest in
educational technology
plus excellent resources
for learning. Class sizes are
small.
Foundation Programme. A
strong curriculum combines
the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and
Vietnamese curricula, all
taught by qualified teachers.
Runs various co-curricula
activities and prepares
students for internationally
recognised qualifications:
iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE &
AS/A Level, GAC
rmit.edu.vn
A leading international provider of skills training and
professional staff development, RMIT offers both short
and long-term courses,
customised courses, and
can provide for either on or
off-campus clients. Known
for its Business MBA which
is open to both Vietnamese
and overseas students.
UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (UNIS)
MARKET RESEARCH
Ciputra International Village,

Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551
unishanoi.org
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN
Unit 9 10, Shophouse
CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743
0360
3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung,
7243
C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri
New Urban, Tu Liem District,
Tel: +84 4 3794 0209
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with
a foreign teacher leading the
class with the assistance of a
Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student
ratio. KinderWorld provides
pre school education for
children from 18 months to
below 6 years.
QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF

HANOI
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
hanoi.qsi.org
With nearly four decades of
experience in international
education, QSI International
School of Hanoi is next in the
long line of quality schools
that have been established
by the Quality Schools International. The institution
specialises in instructing
pre-school and lower elementary age students.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (SIS)
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic
Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block
C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel:
3795 1036
www,kinderworld.net/sis
SIS provides international
education for students from
Primary up to University
APOLLO
67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3943 2051
Apollo.edu.vn
Established in 1994, Apollo
offers high-quality and costeffective English language
classes including general
English, English for teens,
English for business communication and a pronunciation
clinic. One of the countrys
leading language centres.
BRITISH COUNCIL
20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3728 1922
britishcouncil.org
The cultural arm of the British governments presence
in Vietnam, the BC offers a
variety of English language
courses business writing, corporate training and
general English in a large
learning centre close to West
Lake.
LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM

62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3927 3399
languagelink.edu.vn
With four schools around
Hanoi, Language Link runs
international English language courses endorsed by
Cambridge University. One of
the top language centres in
the capital.
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES
HKC Building, Suite 701, 285
Doi Can, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3762 3805
ghmsglobal.com
RMIT
Hanoi Resco Building, 521
Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3726 1460
CIMIGO
142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3518 6696
vietnam@cimigo.com
cimigolive.com
INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD
MARKET RESEARCH
xavier@indochinaresearch.
com
indochinaresearch.com
Active in Vietnam for more
than 20 years, Indochina
Research has the capacity to
RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS

ALLIED PICKFORDS
Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan
Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The international home
moving company helps
make the burden of moving
a lot easier. As the largest
home moving company in
the world, Allied Pickfords
moves over 1,000 families
in over 175 countries every
day. Available with a full
range of services domestic moves, office moves and
storage whether you are
moving within Vietnam or
across the world.
ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO

Inland Customs Deport Area
(ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh,
Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882
asiantigergroup.com
Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of
moving households without
disruption ti family life. They
also offer pre-move advice
regarding customs and
shipping.
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

Suite 821, Vietnam Trade
Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong,
0805
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving,
pet transportation, relocation services including home
search, orientation, cultural
training, immigration services and records management. For more information
email info@santaferelo.
com.vn.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
ATLANTA RESIDENCES
49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 0912 239085
atlanta.com.vn
Atlanta Residences fully
serviced apartments have
been created to provide a
space where you can feel
at home. Within walking
distance from Hanois Opera
House and Hoan Kiem Lake,
this building offers a panel of
51 spacious apartments for
you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer
the luxury of a hotel mixed
with the peaceful comfort
and privacy of your home,
under one roof of course.
FRASER SUITES HANOI

(04) 3719 8877
Located in the West Lake
area, Fraser Suites Hanoi
consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four
bedrooms, which meet any
lifestyle. With a calming and
warm interior feel, each
apartment features all the
latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides
peace of mind.
SEDONA SUITES
No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 0888
sedonahotels.com.sg
SOMERSET GRAND HANOI

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS
6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is currently a leader in
the field. Has offices in both
49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh,

Tel: (04) 3934 2342
somerset.com
Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive
facilities. 185 fully furnished
apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central
location.
hanoi
STUDENT EYE
WHAT DO YOU WANT TO BE WHEN YOU GROW UP?
remember when my pre-school teacher

used to make us all go to the front to
introduce ourselves: first our full names,
then our ages, hobbies and interests. The
last question would always be what we
wanted to do in the future. The answers
ranged from actress to zoologist.
I recently revisited my old kindergarten
class and it was the same. One may call it
naive, but once their brimming eyes looked
confidently at me as they declared with
their high-pitched voice their dream life,
I could not help but believe them, hoping
that their small wishes will eventually
come true.
Fast forward to high school, 10 years later.
Weve all outgrown midday naps and teddy
bears also, childhood dreams. In a recent
conversation I had with some friends, I raised
the same pre-K question that sounded so
simple, but could be the subject of so much
thought and reflection: What are you going to
do in the future? The answers were more than
disheartening. I heard abbreviations of names
of tests or universities: SAT, UCLA, NYU,
IELTS and so on.
It was a no-brainer. I preferred the old

answers.
Progressing Backwards
Arent we supposed to be more and more
sure of what we want to do as we grow
up? Its ironic that at an age when we
didnt even know what flavour of ice
cream to choose at the moment, we could
immediately say what we wanted in 10 or
20 years. Whilst now its the opposite.
When faced with the frightening
question of the future looming ahead of
us, most of my classmates respond with
hesitation, a simple I dont know, or hide
behind the big names of their choice of
university.
With all the knowledge weve
accumulated, perhaps the problem is that
weve been spoilt by choice. So many
paths are opened in front of us and we
find ourselves at the crossroad of it all, not
knowing what to choose, where to go.
We are offered guidance. In my school,
we have an hour dedicated to orientation
class every week. But is that enough?
Most of the students find this hour fairly

useless all it does is present us with
more choices, making the mist of confusion
floating above our heads even thicker.
The Question Remains

So what is it that we want to be in the end?
A wise man once said, there is a
difference between the words should and
must. Should is easy, it is the things you
do for the sake of appearance, the things
people expect of you. But must is a calling,
its what you have to do.
As the future rushes towards us like
a strong wind, we seem to lose sight of
our calling. In between the stress of our
everyday responsibilities (i.e. homework)
and the choices we are offered, the
small voice within us that embodies our
innermost desires seems to dwindle.
But to everyone in my generation faced
with the same fears as I am, hesitation is
not the answer. My best advice is to take a
deep breath, dive ahead and as we go, we
will make up our minds. Eventually. To
Thu Phuong
Ho Chi Minh City
BUSINESS BUFF // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS // NON-FAMOUS PLACES //
A WORLD OF GOOD // FOOD PROMOS
HCMC
business
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES /
EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE /
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS /
RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING COWAN STRATEGIC BRAND PHIBIOUS
DESIGN
GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS

4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon
Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 0220
globaleye.com
PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS
Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796
pwc.com
SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES
6th Floor, Me Linh Point

Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
0938 220 255
vivianwcooper@gmail.com
TMF GROUP
Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon

Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910
2262
Tmg-group.com
ADVERTISING & MKTG

BBDO VIETNAM
74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 6662
bbdoasia.com
16th Floor, Bitexco Office

Tower, 1925 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064
cowandesign.com
DENTSU VIETNAM
AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005
Dentsu.com.vn
GREY GROUP
404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)
3929 1450
grey.com/vietnam
INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA
Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3740 6388
industrialdesignasia.com
MARKETEERS VIETNAM
FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh

Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933
3493
marketeersvietnam.com
OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower,
7274, Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821
9529
ogilvy.com
7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia

Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933
3377
phibious.com
An independent, creative
led communications company helps brands connect
and grow across Southeast
Asia. Clients include The
CocaCola Company, Asia
Pacific Breweries, Piaggio
and UPI.
PURPLE ASIA
9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050
purpleasia.com
RED | BRAND BUILDERS
Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45

Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820
0169
red.vn
Long-established branding
consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team
creates and shapes unique
marketing strategies that
add impact to international
and local brands from Viet-
Lets swim this June
get rid of the heat and indulge yourself in our swimming pool!
VND
1,718,000+ /night
(1-bedroom apartment)
VND
2,482,000+ /night
(2-bedroom apartment)
Promotion includes use of:

- Free Wi-Fi Internet
- Shuttle bus & boat to District 1
- Local calls
- All Riverside facilities
* Terms & conditions applied:
- Rates are not included with breakfasts and subject to 10% VAT
- This promotion is applied for bookings made from 1 June 2014
- Cost for breakfast (not included 10% VAT) as below:
Adult: VND 120,000+ /person
Child: VND 60,000+ /child (under 12 years old)
Riverside Serviced Apartments - Sales & Marketing Office:
53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Tel: (+84 8) 37 444 111 ext. 216 | Email: sales@riverside-apartments.com
Website: www.riverside-apartments.com
nam to Australia.
RIVER ORCHID
10th Floor HDTC Building,
36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 2538
riverorchid.com
SAATCHI & SAATCHI

26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08)
3824 1207
saatchi.com
Ranked among the top 100
global advertising agencies,
S&S has worked with over
half of the 50 bestknown
brands in the world, providing advertisement planning,
direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic
design.
TBWA\VIETNAM
4th Floor, Saigon Finance
Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315
tbwa.com.vn
BUSINESS CONSULTING
BDG VIETNAM
11th Floor, Capital Place, 6
Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 7858
Bdg-vietnam.com
CONCETTI
33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3911 1481
Concetti.vn
GRANT THORNTON
ROUSE
6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58
Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 6770
iprights.com
STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3911 0965
starcorpvn.com
STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:
0904 410884
28th Floor, Saigon Trade

Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100
Gt.com.vn
TRACTUS ASIA LTD
INSPIRED IMAGE
XAGE CONSULTANCY
Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu

Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
0916 352573
Inspiredimage.co.uk
PRISM INFORMATION
TECHNOLOGY SERVICES
4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 7305 0905
prism.com.vn
164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel:

(08) 6291 2205
tractus-asia.com
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen

Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
BUSINESS GROUPS
AMCHAM
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
HCMC
CINEMAS
Showcasing the latest
Hollywood blockbusters
and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as
Megastar Media, Lotte
and Galaxy Cinema offer
the most up-to-date and
modern cinema-going
experiences in Saigon.
For those partial to more
esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and
Idecaf carry little known
Vietnamese and European
efforts.
CINEBOX
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10
Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
LOTTE CINEMA
13th Floor, Diamond Plaza,
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 38227897
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469
Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7
Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com
GALAXY CINEMA
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Tel: (08) 3920 6688
116 Nguyen Du, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 5235
246 Nguyen Hong Dao,
Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1
Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn
MEGASTAR CINEMA
Level 5, Crescent Mall,
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My
Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5412 2222
Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A
Truong Son, Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 6297 1981
Level 5, Parkson Paragon,
3 Nguyen Luong Bang,
Phu My Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5416 0088
megastar.vn
amchamvietnam.com
An independent association
of American and international businesses, the objective
of the American Chamber of
Commerce in Vietnam is to
promote trade and investment between the United
States and Vietnam.
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

2nd Floor, Eximland Building,
179EF Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
auschamvn.org
A licensed foreign business group established to
represent and promote the
interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam,
AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions,
governmental relations
meetings and charity events.
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF

VIETNAM
3829 8430
bbgv.org
CANCHAM
Room 305, New World Hotel,
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the
Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business
associates together and to
facilitate discussion forums
about business in Vietnam.
NORDCHAM
17th Floor, Petroland Tower,
12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08)
5416 0922
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP

VIETNAM
40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
pbgvn.com
SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy
Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6996
swissvietnam.com
CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES

AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD
14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364
ambrij.com
ENDO
406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh,
Tel: (08) 6292 2045
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.
venues to make any kind of

event a success.
COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM
EXPAT SERVICES
Bitexco Office Building, 7th

Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665
colliersmn.com/vietnam
CHUMS HOUSE
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

3920 7237
HAPPY HOUSE
International Plaza Building,

Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu
Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553
RESIDENT VIETNAM
CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701,

Q1, Tel: 01659 419916
Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
HOUSING & REAL ESTATE

CBRE
12th Floor, Me Linh Point
Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 6125
cbre.com
EVENT MANAGEMENT
CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS
Tel: 0906 761190
centerpiece-vn.com
info@centerpiece-vn.com
Centerpiece is an independent event planning company
run by expatriates that can
plan any event from private
parties, to corporate events
to weddings.
EVECOO
Tel: 0988 297990
evecoo.vn
GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6048
galaroyale.com.vn
ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD

268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan
Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880
THE CATERERS
46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel:
(08) 3812 6901
thecaterersvietnam.com.vn
Offers everything from canaps and cocktails, buffets
and set menus to barbeques
and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event
management and exclusive
CREATION
JONES LANG LASALLE

26th Foor, Saigon Trade
Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968
joneslanglasalle.com.vn
Jones Lang LaSalle
(NYSE:JLL) is a professional
services and investment
management firm offering specialized real estate
services to clients seeking
increased value by owning,
occupying and investing in
real estate. As a truly global
firm, they work and collaborate closely with their
colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to
bring best-in-class services,
people, and systems to their
clients in Vietnam.
Their offices in Ho Chi Minh
City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant
Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory,
Research and Consulting,
Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency,
Industrial Agency, Project
and Development Services,
Property Asset Management
Services, Hotel Investment
and Consultancy Services,
Integrated Facilities Management.
Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom

Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 7968
cushmanwakefield.vn
EASY SAIGON
Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is
a useful real estate website
helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.
Enquiries via their website
are welcome.
KNIGHT FRANK
Suite A, level 7, VTP Office
Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6777
knightfrank.com.vn
Founded in 1896, Knight
Frank has grown to become
the worlds largest privately
owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial,
residential and residential
development services.
NAMHOUSE CORPORATION
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental
properties, constructions
and interior decoration,
especially in District 2. Supports professional services
and aftersales.
SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor,
81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 9205
savills.com.vn
Savills Vietnam is a leading
property service provider
in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory

services, residential sales,
commercial leasing, asset
management, retail advisory, valuation, investment
advisory and other services.
SNAP
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Caf in District 2, Snap offers a web
based real estate search
service with information on
rental properties all around
the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse
to wading into the internet
depths for their needs.
SOTHEBYS INTERNATIONAL
REALTY
Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 2000
sothebysrealty.com.vn
THE NEST
369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc
Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901
thenest-vietnam.com
Wellknown property
search and real estate
agency with a useful website
listing properties available
for rent and sale, orientated
towards expats. Website is in
English, French and Spanish.
INSURANCE
BAOVIET INSURANCE
49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661
baoviet.com.vn
IF CONSULTING
IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A
Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 7362
insuranceinvietnam.com
Independent advisors that
represent top reputable
medical insurers provide
you with the best suitable
medical cover for individual,
family or company needs.
HCMC
BUSINESS BUFF
WEIGHING UP THE ODDS
BY SHANE DILLON
in the US from 2007 to 2011, according to

Richard Barrett from the United Nations
Left-Handed People Killed Using

a Right-Handed Product
4,400,000 to 1
More than 2,500 left-handed people are
killed every year around the world from
using equipment meant for right-handed
people. The right-handed power saw is
the most deadly item.
Snake Bite
3,500,000 to 1
Snake bites kill an estimated 25,000
people a year. More people die from
snakebite in India than in any other
country in the world.
Falling off a Ladder

2,300,000 to 1
On average 15 people die from falling off
ladders every year in the UK, and around
1,200 suffer serious injuries. A quarter of
all falls happen off ladders.
Train Crash
s some of you may know I work in

the insurance industry and while
each of us is so unique in a myriad
of ways, when you look at people
as large groups (as insurers do) we are all
a fairly predictable bunch. The fascinating
things I see every day in regards to claims
and user profiles, applications and medical
histories show a sobering commonness in
how much we are all the same.
So this month I decided to look up odds
on some more of the unusual ways we are
all likely to leave this planet spaceship
we all cruise the universe aboard. So grab
a drink, tell someone you love them and
enjoy life while you can. Because we are
all here for a limited time.
Shark Attack
Odds: 370,000,000 to 1
Around 40 people are killed every year
from shark attacks, with the numbers
increasing as more people take holidays
on coasts where sharks live.
Fairground Accident
300,000,000 to 1
The worst rollercoaster accident in Britain
was in 1972 when five children were
killed on the Big Dipper in Battersea,
London one of the cars broke loose and

collided with another. In 2006, 29 people
were injured when the Runaway Mine
Train at Alton Towers split in two.
Falling Coconut
250,000,000 to 1
Coconuts apparently kill around 150
people every year. Falling from a height
of 80 feet, they can build up an impact
speed of 80km/h.
Plane Crash
11,000,000 to 1
Plane crashes worldwide claim 1,300
people every year. Young men are most
likely to emerge from the wreckage alive.
12 percent of passengers who survive the
impact will die from shock later.
Killed by Lightning
10,000,000 to 1
In the UK around five people are killed
by being hit by lightning every year.
And men are four times more likely to be
struck than women.
Terrorist Attack
20,000,000 to 1
The chance of dying in a terrorist attack
500,000 to 1
Despite a number of fatal crashes, public
transport is still the safest way to travel.
Buses are even safer than trains, with the
odds of being killed 13 million to one in
the UK.
Road Accident
4,166 to 1
According the World Health Organization
an estimated 1.24 million people die each
year on the roads. Vietnam is ranked
22nd in the world for road fatalities.
Thailand is fifth.
Cancer
5 to 1
Over 500,000 people die from cancer
every year in the US, of whom 250,000
are aged under 75. The most common
killers are lung, breast, colon and prostate
cancer.
Heart Attack or Stroke

2.5 to 1
By 2020 it will be the leading cause of
death worldwide coronary heart
disease and strokes account for over
680 deaths every day in the USA alone.
Someone has a heart attack every two
minutes in the UK.
Shane works in the health insurance
industry. He can be contacted at shanedillon@
bluecross.com.vn
HCMC
BLUE CROSS VIETNAM
8th Floor, River View Tower,
7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08)
3821 9908
inquiry@bluecross.com.vn
www.bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part
of the Pacific Cross group
of companies with over 60
years experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.
Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable
service means they are the
strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are
getting the most out of your
insurance contact them for
a free quote.
IGLOBALASSIST
Tel: 0934 874271
Iglobalassist.com
LIBERTY INSURANCE
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3812 5125
libertyinsurance.com.vn
PRUDENTIAL
25th F, Saigon Trade Centre,
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 1660
prudential.com.vn
TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES

VIETNAM
Huu Nghi Building, 35 Le
Loi, Q1
ten-pac.com
An independent agency representing local and international insurance companies
in Southeast Asia. A trusted
partner for health, employee
benefits and life insurance,
the team at Tenzing has over
30 years experience providing insurance advice.
INTERIOR DESIGN
PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND
REMODELING
Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren
Hawk)
Thinking about upgrading a

bathroom? Perhaps a new
colour in the living room?
Maybe even a new wood
floor? Professional Painting
and Remodeling can help
with these and many other
projects. Provide international standards of quality
as well as professional and
timely service at reasonable
rates. Call today to schedule
a free evaluation.
LATELIER
INVESTMENT & FINANCE
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging
from basic conversational
Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and
advanced levels, as well as
special courses including
Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival
crash course.
DRAGON CAPITAL
1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo
Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
9355
dragoncapital.com
THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT

GROUP
27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0907
ethicalinvestmentgroup.
co.uk
TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623
t-wm.com
VINACAPITAL
17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower,
3821 9930
vinacapital.com
A leading investment fund
management company with
extensive experience in the
emerging Vietnam market.
Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which
is a US$839 million investment fund.
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
ILA VIETNAM
146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3521 8788
ilavietnam.com
A foreign-owned education
and training company that
offers a range of educational
programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes,
corporate training, teacher
training and overseas study
consultancy and placement
services.
33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492
latelier-anphu.com
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van,
Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670
771
vietnameselanguagegarden.com
VLS SAIGON
VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE

TRAINING & TRANSLATION
37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6678 0914
vnccentre.com
VUS
189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800
vus-etsc.edu.vn
LEGAL SERVICES
ALLENS
Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29
Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
1717
vietnamlaws.com
BAKER & MCKENZIE

12th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3829 5585
bakermckenzie.com
FRASERS LAW COMPANY

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The
Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733
frasersvn.com
GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8599
gide.com
INDOCHINE COUNSEL
Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam
Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 9640

indochinecounsel.com
MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3822 8860
mayerbrownjsm.com
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
EMBERS ASIA
80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728
embers-asia.com
ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288
erci.edu.vn
INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

xavier@indochinaresearch.
com
indochinaresearch.com
Active in Vietnam for more
than 20 years, Indochina
Research has the capacity to
run large research projects
in the country, for commercial and social purposes.
MEKONG RESEARCH

Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314
mekongresearch.com
NIELSEN
CentrePoint Building, Level

4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088
vn.nielsen.com
G&H
6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919
ghmsglobal.com
A 100 percent foreigninvested company focusing on
management services and
consulting with inhouse
programmes to meet the
particular requirements of
its clients. Offers teambuilding and academicbased
business and management
programmes.
XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
MARKET RESEARCH
CIMIGO
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727
cimigo.vn
An independent marketing
and brand research specialist operating in the Asia
Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes,
knowledge management,
developing marketing plans
and business models and
assessing market opportunities.
TNS VIETNAM
3930 6631
Tnsvietnam.vn
With over 11 years in the
marketplace, TNS Vietnam
offers all three major market
research services customisation, access panels
and media monitoring to
a range of local and international clients.
PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES
DRAGON IMAGES
Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660
dragonimages.asia
Dragon Images production
studio is a professional team
of photographers, stylists.
shooting administrators,
casting managers and retouchers. They make photos
on various topics, from business to sport.
PUBLIC RELATIONS
MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS
Level 5, 273-273B Ben
Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 5517
matterhorncommunications.com
Providing public relations
and communications support to international and
local firms operating in
Vietnam. Specialising in
corporate communications,
media relations, corporate

social responsibility and media and issues management
and training.
VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462
veropr.com
Helps clients expand their
footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective
public relations campaigns.
Services offered include
branding, media relations,
event management, public
affairs and issues / crisis
management.
RECRUITMENT & HR
ADECCO VIETNAM
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26
- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3430
adecco.com.vn
Adecco is the world leader in
human resources solutions.
Established in Vietnam in
2011, Adecco offers a wide
array of global workforce
solutions and specialises in
finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.
HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

1st Floor, Thien Son Building,
5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com
G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM

CO., LTD.
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur,
District 1, HCMC.
Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th
Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba
Dinh District, Hanoi.
www.vieclambank.com
info@vieclambank.com
VieclamBank is a brand of
G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a
Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established
in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting
executive and senior level,
providing Vietnamese and
Japanese candidates with
HCMC
BODY
AND
TEMPLE
WEALTH IS HEALTH OR IS IT?
ietnam is an amazing country a

developing country. Which brings
many interesting situations in regard
to health, wealth and longevity.
As personal wealth increases luxury,
or seen to be luxury, items become more
attainable and health has been proven to
suffer. People are now living longer than ever
before. However, I would suggest that this is
not because populations are healthier, rather
that medical and technological advances are
keeping people alive longer. In other words,
humans are now just sicker for longer.
The Vietnamese middle class is growing
and with the introduction of McDonalds,
Starbucks, Burger King, KFC and Carls
Junior, the the beginnings of a health versus
wealth issue is being created. The more
societies move away from a traditional diet,
the unhealthier they become. A move away
from farmed foods to store bought processed
foodstuffs shares a trend with a rise in
chronic diseases.
In 2004 almost 170,000 people died
of cardiovascular diseases in Vietnam.
Infectious and parasitic diseases were the
second largest killer, with approximately
67,000 deaths. Cardiovascular diseases are
the biggest cause of death by a long way
and these diseases are largely preventable.
When heart disease is mentioned, cholesterol
is never far behind. Fast food is one of the
biggest culprits of elevating total and LDL
cholesterol levels.
The World Health Organisation (WHO)
declares that the prevalence of raised total
BY PHIL KELLY
cholesterol increased noticeably according

to the income of the country. In low income
countries around a quarter of adults had
raised total cholesterol, in lower middle
income countries this rose to around a third
of the population for both sexes. In high
income countries, over 50 percent of adults
had raised total cholesterol; more than double
the level of the low income countries.
The WHO shows that the incidences
of elevated total cholesterol are highest in
western societies (Europe 54 percent and The
Americas, 48 percent) with the Southeast
Asian Region sitting at 29 percent. Where
our health should be our true wealth it is
apparent that with wealth, societies lose their
health.
There are many influencing factors within
this topic. Lets keep it simple and look at five
foods that are available in Vietnam and can
help lower cholesterol and regain health.
less likely to clot and therefore clog up your

blood vessels. Try to always have olive oil
cold, as cooking can damage the beneficial
substances
Almonds
Contain a substance called lycopene. Studies

have shown that lycopene prevents LDL
production. It also has been indicated that
it helps to break down the LDL fats that are
clogging arteries
Health really is wealth. We can always
make more money, but if we lose our health
its very hard to get it back. Think wisely
when making food choices and avoid fast
foods.
Phil is founder and master trainer at Body
Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or
at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through
Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com).
Contain a high amount of unsaturated fats,

which help raise healthy HDL levels while
lowering unhealthy LDL. These fats in
almonds seem to impede the LDL cholesterol
from blocking up your arteries by stopping
them from oxidizing. One of the best snack
foods available
Olive Oil
Is high in monounsaturated fats, which like
almonds aids to lower LDL and increase
HDL. Olive Oil is rich in plant substances
called phenolics. Phenolics make the blood
Asparagus
Research has shown that steamed asparagus
may act to bind more bile acids, which means
your liver needs to use more LDL cholesterol
to make additional bile, taking the unhealthy
substance out of the bloodstream. Only steam
vegetables for a maximum of 4 minutes so
that the nutrients are not too damaged
Oatmeal
The soluble fibre in oatmeal forms a gel like
substance that hinders cholesterol from being
absorbed into the bloodstream. Oats have the
best source of soluble fibre of all the whole
grains
Tomatoes
HCMC
PHUONG HA
Canned food, candy and chocolate products,
liquor, Russian caviar and frozen food
Indian specialities, kids food and
spices supplied for hotels and restaurants
Cake Decoration
Supplies
Cake Moulds and
Pans
Cocktail
Materials and
Syrups
HCMC
KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS
experience studying abroad

or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and
competitive service suitable
for many types of business.
VIETNAMWORKS.COM
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
LOGICAL MOVES VIETNAM

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international,
local, domestic and office moves for household
goods and personal effects
through our global partner
network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not
have documentation.
RELOCATION AGENTS
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
DANCENTER
53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,
funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
this modern dance studio.
HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER

37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Inspirato.edu.vn
KIDS CLUB SAIGON

79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel:
0908 460267
kidsclubsaigon.com
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com
AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM)

5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices
globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.
ALLIED PICKFORDS
12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices
in over 45 countries, Allied
Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also
provides tailored relocation
services.
19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679

paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids
in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and
saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a
mixture of private and group classes.
Tel: 01225 636682

morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
SAIGON MOVEMENT
Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com
SAIGON SEAL TEAM

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
SAIGON PONY CLUB

38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Saigonponyclub.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to
16 years and private lessons for children and adults.
Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
TAE KWON DO
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
VINSPACE
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo,

Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850
seal.com.vn
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

8FL, Thien Son Building, 5
Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers
local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including
home search, orientation,
cultural training, immigration services and records
management. Email info@
santaferelo.com.vn for info.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT
656 Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587
camlyapartment@hcm.
vnn.vn
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON
PIANO CLASSES
SAIGON EXPRESS
AGENCY LIMITED
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY

Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower,
9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12,
District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3
826 7799
www.asiantigers-mobility.
com
Asian Tigers is one of the
largest regional move management specialists, with
services including door-todoor moving, housing and
school searches, local and
office moves and pet relocations.
DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES
2nd Floor Coteccons Office

Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien
Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3840 4237
crownrelo.com
No 01 Street No.104-BTT,
Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,
Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08)
3742 5678
enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury
Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from
two to four-bedroom units
with spectacular panoramic
views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite
bathrooms, separate work
and living areas, a balcony,
modern amenities, elegant
furnishings and carefully
chosen trimmings.
JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS
CITYVIEW
CROWN RELOCATIONS
1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,

Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is a leader in the field.

3822 1111
cityview.com.vn
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON RESIDENCES
Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon youll

find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The
residences offer panoramic
views of the downtown area.
NORFOLK MANSION
1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished
accommodation with attentive and discreet service.
Facilities include an outdoor
swimming pool, a gym, sauna
and steam room, as well as
two on-site restaurants.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
(08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank
hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort
lifestyle with the amenities
of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from
downtown by high-speed
boat shuttle.
SEDONA SUITES
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9666
sedonahotels.com.sg
SHERWOOD RESIDENCE
127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3823 2288
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a
luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime
location, comfort and class,
with fivestar facilities and
service.
SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C
Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
Somerset Chancellor Court,
Somerset Ho Chi Minh City
and Somerset Vista Ho Chi
Minh City serviced residences combine the space
and privacy of an apartment with the services of a
top-rated hotel. They come
with separate living and
dining areas, as well as a
fully equipped kitchen where
guests can prepare a meal
for themselves, their family
and friends.
DELIVERY
BEN STYLE
Tel: 0906 912730
www.vietnammm.com/
restaurants-ben-style
Healthy, calorie-counted
sandwich and deli fare
CHEZ GUIDO
Tel: (08) 3898 3747
www.chezguido.com
Vietnamese, international
fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches
DOMINOS PIZZA
Tel: (08) 3939 3030
www.dominos.vn
Pizzas, wings, desserts
EAT.VN
www.eat.vn
Delivery service website
for local restaurants
EL GATO NEGRO
Tel: (08) 6660 1577
Californian-style burritos
HUNGRYPANDA.VN
www.hungrypanda.vn
KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
www.kfcvietnam.com.vn
Fried chicken, chicken
burgers, sides
LOTTERIA
Tel: (08) 3910 0000
www.lotteria.vn
Burgers, fried chicken,
sides
PIZZA HUT (PHD)

Tel: (08) 3838 8388
www.pizzahut.vn
Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers
SCOOZI
Tel: (08) 3823 5795
www.scoozipizza.com
Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts
TACO BICH
www.tacobich.com
Homemade Mexican fare
WILLY WOOS
Tel: (08) 3941 5433
www.blackcatsaigon.com
US-style chicken and
waffles
VIETNAMMM
www.vietnammm.com
THE LANDMARK
5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2098
thelandmarkvietnam.com
65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a
comprehensive health club
for tenants and members,
a squash court and a 16th
floor swimming pool.

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
downtown
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING &

ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR &
WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
BEER REPUBLIC
MODERN BEER HALL

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel:
0945 858034
facebook.com/BeerRepublic
BLANCHYS TASH
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
0909 028293
Blanchystash.com
BOOTLEG DJ CAF
MINIMALIST CAF BAR

9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907
609202.
bootlegsaigon.com
Reminiscent of a New York
or London underground
watering hole, this is a great
place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts,
lunch by day and a variety of
DJ sets by night.
BOUDOIR LOUNGE
HOTEL LOUNGE BAR

Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
LIVE MUSIC / BAR

8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 7699
CUNHOUSE
LOUNGE BAR
Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
Tel: 0908 033982
DRUNKEN DUCK
EXPAT / SPORTS BAR

58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3915 2853
Subtle lighting, a pleasant
ambience, a pool table and
darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel
of a drinking man's pub. A
place to have fun, drink beer
or spirits and get in with the
party mood. Known for its 15
shooter challenge.
FUSE
TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP

3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
0919 206461
fuse.vn
GAME ON
SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel:
(08) 6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com
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EXPAT BAR
3822 2644
Expats keep returning to
this smoky dive bar, largely
due to its amicable service,
brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart
games. A mainstay in the
local darts league.
District 3
Ba
Hu
ng
ICE BLUE
Ha
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LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595
hardrockcafe.vn
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TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 1234
International dcor blends
seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces
with a wide-ranging drink
menu and hip dance tunes to
create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP
3823 6838
Bromas medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the
citys weirdest and coolest
events/random moments.
A sophisticated cocktail
menu and quite possibly the
best lamb burger in town.
Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.
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BARS & CLUBS
Binh Thanh
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District 4
Vo
LA HABANA
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and
restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and
Cuban cuisine, as well as a
few German favourites such
as curry wurst and Wiener
schnitzel. Nightly live music
and regular salsa classes.
LA FENETRE SOLEIL
FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

3824 5994
A seductive watering whole
in a great corner location
thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese
fusion cuisine, imported
beer, classic cocktails, and
entertaining music events /
DJ sets.
LAST CALL
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 3122
lastcallsaigon.com
If youre in need of dense,

soulful atmosphere and
maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from
wherever, Last Call is your
stop and fast becoming
that of the similarly inclined.
Great happy hour deals for
early evening starters.
LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON
FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR

9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 0396
lerendezvousdesaigon.com
With such a meaningful
name - the meeting point
- this wine bistro boasts a
relaxed, friendly ambience,
perfect for unwinding with
an after work drink or to
enjoy time with friends.
Reasonably priced, has a
sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive
old and new world wine list.
LEVEL 23 WINE BAR
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

Level 23, Sheraton Saigon
Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT
LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB

Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
LUSH
PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM
3824 2496
lush.vn
OBRIENS
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports
bar with classic pub dcor
is widely appreciated for its
excellent international fare,
large whiskey selection and

upstairs pool table. Great
pizzas. And for a real treat,
check out their zesty rolls.
PACHARAN
SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6024
pacharansaigon.com
Legs of Iberian ham hang
from the ceiling in the
downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything
Spanish. Regular first-floor
live music and excellent eats
makes it a mainstay for the
wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.
PHATTYS
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed
Caf Latin, Phattys has become the go-to, Aussie beer-
HCMC
COFFEE CUP
UCC COFFEE
ust down the way from Starbucks

on Nguyen Trai sits the first
Vietnamese edition of UCC Coffee
Ueshima Coffee Company,
a Japan-based multinational chain
with its own style and mass-replicated
appeal. Where Starbucks debut was a
mix of buzz, lines and Facebook selfies,
UCC Coffee hasnt drummed up any
of that in its first six months. And, in
the quiet, modernist collection of nooks
and comfortable, classically upholstered
seats, one sees why they might have
wanted it this way.
Although UCC has 650 similarly low-key
cafs in Japan and abroad, theyre more
active on the back-end than most chains
with coffee farms around the world
and several coffee-connected concerns that
help them attend the process from cup to
seed. Maybe more notably, they took the
process one step further in the space-age
year of 1969, becoming the first company to
put coffee in a can.
Now that were caught up, lets step
inside. Underneath the high rafters lies
a clever coffee counter, well-appointed
with espresso machines and waffle makers
and a collection of syphon coffee brewers

the type that brew the coffee in their
upper chamber by boiling the water in the
lower chamber, then letting the result filter
downward upon the heats removal. Its a
process that makes for a nice clean cup of
acid-toned coffee, and UCC has varieties
like Guatemalan, Jamaican Blue Mountain,
Brazilian, Hawaiian Kona, Colombian
Supremo and a house blend to choose from.
Its Still a Chain

Before you get too excited, though, take
a look at the per-cup prices: ranging
from VND50,000 for the house blend to
VND200,000 for Blue Mountain No. 1.
The Guatemalan blend I tried lacked the
clean edges I look for in a cup of syphon
coffee. In speciality coffee consultant Will
Friths estimation, They are legit speciality,
though their preferences are a bit bland and
old school. [A] Caf (15 Huynh Khuong
Ninh, Q1) still makes the best syphon brew
in town, at a better price point.
But chains dont get popular off of
stylistic brilliance, for the most part
theyre sought after for predictable
products and atmosphere. And its
atmosphere where UCC really excels.

The interior is blessed with clean
lines of wood and steel, and framed
avant-garde angles of decaying Saigon
colonials in nostalgic black-and-white. It
has a calm, intimate feel that suits work
or quiet conversation. There are three
Wi-Fi hotspots in a space that measures
something close to 60sqm.
The caf is popular with Japanese
expats, like Hide. I like this caf because
its quiet, he told me. The coffee is good
and... its hard to say... there are not many
Vietnamese people coming here. Thats
why its quiet.
One of the other two patrons at that midafternoon hour was Vietnamese, although
Cady admitted to liking Japanese-style
hangouts like MOF. Like the other two, she
was quietly absorbed in electronic pursuits.
I like it because its quiet, she said,
and the drinks are good. This is the best
caramel latt Ive tried.
Is it better than Starbucks? I asked, the
only question that came to mind.
Mmm, yea, she said, sipping her drink
lower and lower. Ed Weinberg
UCC Coffee is at 106 Nguyen Trai, Q1
HCMC
guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing
everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub
favourites.
SAIGON SAIGON
HOTEL MUSIC BAR

9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Som
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
STORM P
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738
Stormp.vn
VASCOS
MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR

The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 2888
Vascosgroup.com
A veteran fixture of Saigons nightlife scene,
Vascos offers a softly lit downstairs patio,
and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge
area with regular live music.
VELVET
DANCE/HIP HOP
26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2262
velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9698
Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle,
Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet down-toearth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative,
Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement
the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking
and dining venue
VINO
WINE BAR / TAPAS

The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6299 1315
1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
vinovietnam.com
This downtown wine shops terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can
select from 10 wines by the glass, a range of
imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu.
Alternatively, buy from the great selection of
wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.
VINYL BAR
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623
vinylbarsaigon.com
A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop
of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a
darts area out back and is a popular space
for watching the live English Premier League.
WINE BAR 38

38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968
With a huge selection of self-imported wines
from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a
lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian
menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.
WINE EMBASSY

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine
bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu
to complement the old and new world wines.
XU
CAF / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known
for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a
range of international and Vietnamese dishes
to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior.
Regular DJ nights.
ZANZBAR
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7375
Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list,
subtle lighting, international tapas and a laidback, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the
offering at the all-new ZanZBar on the river
end of Dong Khoi. Popular with a businessy,
international crowd.
CAFES & ICE-CREAM

AU PARC
EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772
Auparcsaigon.com
Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc
offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean
food complemented with good coffee and
excellent desserts.
BACH DANG
ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE

26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2707
BASKIN ROBBINS
ICE CREAM PARLOUR

1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131
baskinrobbins.vn
CASBAH
MIDDLE EASTERN
59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5130
This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse
has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to
admire views of the city. With such a prime
downtown location, expect prices to match.
CENTRO
ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE

11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
5946
Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best
lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu
including panini and other typical fare.
COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL
Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3508 7285
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures customers into
the flagship store of this international caf
chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating
and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.
CREPERIE AND CAF
FRENCH
5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117
Known for its fantastic street-side seating
opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury
crepes, this hang out caf will impress you
with its location as much as its food.
FANNY

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633
fanny.com.vn
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL
80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3704
saigongivral.com
GOODY

133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339
HAGEN-DAZS

11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 6683 5899; 20 Le
Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066
KITA COFFEE
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6799
Kitas colonial-era building and bistro-style
decor will have you thinking youve been
transported to the streets of Europe. Pair
your experience with an espresso-based
Italian coffee from their Mediterraneanbased menu. Excellent sandwiches and
salads.
LUSINE
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674
9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor compliments
the spacious, whitewashed contemporary
interior of LUsine. A simple, creative menu
combines with reasonably priced coffee,
and a fashion store and art gallery out back.
Second location on Le Loi.
HCMC
MAGONN THE CAFE
(08) 3822 9672
magonn.vn
Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything
from drinks to bites. Coming
with a crowd? The attic is a
quaint little spot to fit a cozy
gathering.
M2C CAFE
44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2495
facebook.com/m2ccafe
At M2C (Modern Meets
Culture), everything gets a
touch of modernity. From
the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows
immense local culture, done
with a modern flare. Be seen
here at one of the latest popular joint in town.
THE MORNING CAFE

2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
Have a book to read? Pick a
bright spot by the window
and get snuggly with the
comfy upholstery in this
second-floor cafe. With a
cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some
background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.
THE PRINT ROOM
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
3823 4990
Second-storey coffeehouse
offers a quiet atmosphere
to chill out or read from
their book-nook collection.
Comfortable couch seating,
open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
TRUNG NGUYEN
INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE
80 Dong Khoi, Q1
trungnguyen.com.vn
ZEST BISTRO & CAF
INTERNATIONAL
5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)
3911 5599
This two-storey building with
a mezzanine level boasts an
industrial style complex with
block walls, steel structures
and huge glass windows.
The mid-range menu offers
over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

ANUPA ECO LUXE
LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2394
anupa.net
Monday to Sunday, 9am to
8pm
This centrally located unique
boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique
which exclusively retails
the complete Anupa leather
and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other
unique eco brands such as
bamboo eyewear, pendant
scarves and cushion covers.
DEBENHAMS
ADULT & CHILDRENS WEAR

Vincom Center, 70-72 Le
Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
7592
GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN
DESIGN & JEWELLERY

6291 8162
galleryvivekkevin.com
9.30am to 8pm
This retail-cum-gallery
space specialises in contemporary and exclusive
handcrafted jewellery made
from handpicked gemstones
and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run
every month.
GEISHA & GEISHAS COFFEE AND

TEA HOUSE
CASUAL & EVENING WEAR

3829 4004
Contemporary ranges of
casual and evening wear
fused with Asian designs.
The apparel includes floral
dresses, jean skirts, printed
tees and street-style bags.
Enjoy a cup of coffee at their
caf after.
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
8755
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
IPA-NIMA
BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
9am to 9pm
LUSINE
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and
sophisticated clothing and
casual high-quality cottons
are stocked at this boutique/
caf. Lifestyle accessories
include shoes, homewares,
knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.
MANDARINA
TAILOR-MADE SHOES
(08) 3827 5267
MR & MRS SMITH
FACTORY OUTLET
(08) 3821 8019

9am to 9pm
This designer fashion outlet
sells a variety of clothing and
shoes produced in Vietnam.
All designs are brand new,
delivered from the factory
weekly and sold at factory
outlet prices.
SONG
ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65
Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3914 4088
asiasongdesign.com
T&V TAILOR
TAILORS
3824 4556
triciaandverona.com
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A
Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
COOKING CLASSES
SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY
HOA TUC
3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The
three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking
Vietnamese chef, includes a
trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.
VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu
Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 4201
bellavitafurniture.com
BOCONCEPT
DANISH FURNITURE
68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 6604; The Crescent
Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5413 7357
boconcept.vn
DIABOLO
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1803
9am to 8pm
EM EM
SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org
NGUYEN FRERES
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
3823 9459
8am to 8pm
NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY
EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS
3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1.
(08) 3824 7456
ninhkhuong.vn
SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

69 Dong Khoi, Q1
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre,
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
6115
www.nhaxinh.com
THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse.
com.vn
EAT
3T QUAN NUONG
VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631
AL FRESCOS
INTERNATIONAL
38238424
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of
one of Vietnams most successful restaurant chains,
Al Frescos offers international, Australian-influenced
comfort fare in a pleasant
environment with efficient,
friendly service to match.
Excellent delivery service.
ASHOKA
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 1372
33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel :
(08) 3744 4177
ashokaindianrestaurant.
com
Long-running, awardwinning Indian restaurant
famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and
Chinese-Indian fare.
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAF
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European
caf fare think deli-style
sandwiches, salads and
HCMC
mezzes, plus coffees and juices served at
a popular park-side Le Duan location with
classic cream and green-tiled dcor.
BUN CHA HA NOI
BUN CHA
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1
CENTRAL PARC BANH MI
BAHDJA
87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763
1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com
Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel,
Bahdja is Saigons first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber
North African and Mediterranean cuisine
cooked and served in a traditional Algerian
style. Best experienced in a group, this small
but pleasant restaurants soothing ambience
is matched by the owners genuine hospitality
and complimented by an array of tasty tajines
and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to
try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.
BARBECUE GARDEN
VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE
135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
3340; 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1
barbecuegarden.com
BASILICO
Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du
and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099
BEIRUT
LEBANESE
The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2188
BIBI@ALIBI
5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257
The legendary chef Bibis newest creation, a
convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean
cuisine using fresh products bought early
morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the
famous tarte tatin.
BLACK CAT
AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055
blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails,
mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular twostorey eatery close to the river.
BLANCHY STREET
JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8793
The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito,
the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine
at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and
most unusual in the city. All complemented
by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy
terrace out front.
BOMBAY INDIAN
INDIAN MALAY
57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114
BROTZEIT
GERMAN / RESTOBAR
Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 4206
brotzeit.co/kumholink
7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549

Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule,
New York-themed sandwich shop does
creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices
think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels.
Excellent delivery service.
CIAO BELLA
NEW YORK-ITALIAN
11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering
a range of tasty and affordable antipasti,
pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic
bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film
legends make for a relaxed and attractive
setting.
CORSO
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing
range of US and Australian steaks plus great
grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decentsized steaks start at VND390,000.
DRAGON NOODLE
JAPANESE NOODLES
29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008
ELBOW ROOM
AMERICAN
52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking USstyle diner ranges from meatball baguettes
to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken
salads and a selection of more expensive
international mains.
EL GAUCHO
5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an
Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage,
skewers, burger dishes and everything that
can come off a grill.
GANESH
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and
creamy and the curries are both authentic
and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the
best Indian in town. Very friendly service.
GOLDEN ELEPHANT
CLASSIC THAI
34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554
saigonssk@vnn.vn
GOURMETS DELIGHT
ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE

Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181
gourmetsdelight.com.vn
GRILLBAR
AIRCON STREETFOOD
122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7901
facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe
Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to it a range of grilled dishes,
typical of the barbecue fare youd find on

the street, and then add in three types of rice
and a range of organic products. Close to Ben
Thanh Market, this is com binh dan
HOA TUC
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1676
Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn
rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken
in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101
LA HOSTARIA
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080
lahostaria.com
This downtown hideaway with rusticstyle
decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello dantico.
Also specializes in excellent wood-fired
pizzas.
LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON
HOGS BREATH CAF
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai
Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar
atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers
regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy
hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.
CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION

40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263
lebouchondesaigon.com
A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic
staples such as French onion soup, escargot,
and moules marinires, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world
wines.
LE JARDIN
INAHO
SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326
JASPAS WINE & GRILL
INTERNATIONAL FUSION
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good
and creative. Excellent service, an attractive
outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu.
Check out their pepper steaks.
KABIN
CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 815 Ton Duc
Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine
in an elegant, classic setting, with striking
dcor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to
VND900,000.
KOH THAI
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4423
Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai
classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and
more. Koh Thais creative cocktails merge
Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and
herbs.
LE BANH MI
12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1036
LOLIVIER
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with
its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and
ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant
has quarterly Michelin star promotions and
an award winning pastry team.
LA CUISINE
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant
bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu,
backed up with an extensive wine list.
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882
CLASSIC FRENCH
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465
Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a
relaxed garden setting within the French
cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap
house wine is served by the carafe.
LUCCA
TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN
88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3691
A contemporary trattoria in the heart of
Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine
with New York flair in a beautifully designed
space with high ceilings. The menu features
both traditional antipasti and substantial
main courses.
LUONG SON
PAN-VIETNAMESE
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330
MARKET 39
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 9999
MOGAMBO
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311
mogambo@saigonnet.vn
NAM GIAO
HUE CUISINE
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38
250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 9996
namgiao.com
NHA HANG NGON
VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD

160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131
NINETEEN
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
OMG!
FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1
HCMC
TOP EATS
QUAN UT UT
s a westerner in Ho Chi Minh

City its fairly easy to satisfy
most food cravings: pizza, tacos,
fish and chips, Sunday roast
you can even get late night McDonalds.
One cuisine that is lacking, though, is
good ol fashioned American barbecue.
Vietnam is fairly expert in grilled meats,
but a rack of ribs smothered in barbecue
sauce and accompanied by disgustingly
unhealthy sides? Thats another beast
entirely.
Enter Quan Ut Ut otherwise known
as Restaurant Oink Oink. Opened in late
March on Vo Van Kiet near the Ong Lanh
Bridge, this American BBQ spot is dishing
out everything from tender pork shoulder
to classic sides like corn bread, creamed
spinach, and mac and cheese.
Ut Ut is hard to miss, and if the crowds
of people sitting outdoors dont grab your
attention, the huge spatula-wielding pig
mascot out front certainly will. Patrons
sit on wooden picnic tables and chairs,
a mix between classic Americana and
Vietnamese street style.
Start it Up
Starters are a definite must, specifically
Photos by Kyle Phanroy
the Kickin Chicken Skin, which is as

fried, crunchy and golden as their menu
suggests, and the Memphis Bourbon
Oyster Shooter, a good option to get the
party started. Skip others like the breaded
shiitake mushroom bombs while good,
your appetite should be saved for the
more mouth-watering options to follow.
Once the first course is finished, go
straight for the barbecue. Meats such as
crispy pork belly, spicy Italian sausage,
and southern fried chicken are prepared
on numerous outdoor smokers and
grills. Be warned: barbecue options are
portioned to serve one or two people, so
if youre hungry you may not want to
share.
Its hard to go wrong with the barbecue
selection, but the best is easily their halfrack cashew-smoked ribs (VND300,000).
With a nice, dark, slightly crispy skin on
top, the meats falls easily off the bone
with a gentle tug of a finger or fork. Make
sure to add a little homemade Ut Ut sauce
to get that extra flavour.
From their Facebook page: Thick and
delicious cashew smoke kisses the ribs
and imparts their subtle seductiveness
and complexity. When the ribs hit your
tongue, you should taste a rainbow of

different notes like when drinking a
good wine popping up and then fading
away.
Wash it Down
No barbecue experience is complete
without beer, and luckily Ut Ut has plenty
of options. This month theyll (hopefully)
start serving a draught Platinum Pale
Ale (VND40,000/glass) made by an
Australian brewery new to Vietnam. Their
beer list also includes some hard-to-find
American favourites such as Pacifico, Blue
Moon and Kona, although availability is
on-and-off due to importation.
If beer doesnt quite quench your
thirst, go for the bottomless iced tea
and were not talking about tra da. This
is southern-style sweet iced tea, and a
bottomless glass is only VND25,000.
Flavours such as strawberry, raspberry
and blueberry are changed daily, but lets
be honest, youll probably get a chance to
try them all.
After all, Quan Ut Ut always leaves you
coming back for more. Margaret Smith
Quan Ut Ut is at 168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, or
at quanutut.com
A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from
Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell
modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a
jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.
OSAKA RAMEN
JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My
Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7
OPERA
Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
Unpretentious, casual but elegant restaurant
with a triedandtested Italian menu backed
up by a compact wine list from regions like
Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and impressive open kitchens.
PACHARAN
SPANISH / EUROPEAN
97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924
Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs
bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in
warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharans
food menu is traditionally Spanish.
PASHA
TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL
25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677
pasha.com.vn
Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant
close to the mosque with Islamic-style white
dome dcor and comfortable, cushioned
seating.Authentically Turkish cuisine with a
sprinkling of western fare thrown in.
PENDOLASCO
PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian
restaurant serves up quality homemade
pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and
grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.
PIZZA 4PS
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet
delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and
calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more
traditional varieties.
PROPAGANDA
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1
Part of the group that includes Au Parc
and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of
barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda
Art murals and prints.
QUAN BUI 2
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515
With its leafy roof garden and chic interior,
Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open
kitchen.
REFINERY
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL
The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)

3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades this popular
French-style bistro and wine bar which once
housed the citys opium refinery. The cuisine
runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.
REFLECTIONS
INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING

3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
RIVERSIDE CAF
Renaissance Riverside, 815 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
Offers versatile allday dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to
watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.
Good for events.
SKEWERS
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini
carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range
of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop
skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.
TANDOOR

74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839
Tandoorvietnam.com
TEMPLE CLUB
SAIGON CAF
PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old
Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple
Club is one of the citys best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.
SEOUL HOUSE
THE BURGER CORNER
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT
PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of
dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong,
Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms
and a main dining area seating over 300.
INTERNATIONAL
43 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0094
THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON

54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2079
swisshousesaigon.com
Serving up authentic cuisine spanning the
three linguistic regions of Switzerland, as
well as dishes from Bavaria and Austria, this
attractive, two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant
also boasts a beer cellar in the basement.
HCMC
NON-FAMOUS PLACES
213 DONG KHOI
whose unconsulted demolition kickstarted the modern historic preservation

movement nationwide. About the transition
to the modern, utilitarian Penn Station,
Scully said, One entered the city like a god.
One scuttles in now like a rat.
Crossroads
Illustration by Lys Bui
In an ongoing series originally published on the blog

From Saigon, Non-Famous Places seeks to take readers
to Ho Chi Minh City landmarks left off most maps,
whose stories make up the very fabric of the city itself
f you pass 213 Dong Khoi today, youll

see temporary wooden walls postered
with pictures of The Reunification
Palace, the Peoples Committee
Building, the Opera House, Ben Thanh
Market and a blooming lotus. Many of
Saigons symbols are accounted for but
not the posthumously famous one whose
Art Deco rubble threatens to overwhelm the
three-metre-high walls.
To some its natural for buildings
like 213 to come down, as Dong Khoicentred downtown continues its march to
skyscraper-dotted prosperity. But nowhere
on HCMC House Trade Management Co.
Ltds banner is there a Vincom Center or a
Bitexco.
On either side of the temporary
wall where 213 used to stand are old
constructions. One is a former part of
the demolished building its insides
now gutted, its 213-facing side open to
the elements the other is the Peoples
Committee Building, a relic of the same
era, but with a perfectly maintained facade,
floodlit at night. Across the streets that 213
used to corner on are the twin presences
of Vincom Centers A and B, threatening to

overwhelm them all.
Buildings with Souls

Vincent Scully, one of the USs leading
architectural critics over the past century,
wrote in a 1985 New York Times article,
Nothing shows up more definitively in a
building than a lack of love, unless it is the
love of money.
He wrote this at a time when New York
City was at a crossroads, in the process of
leaving behind its checkered past for a more
prosperous future. Scullys worry on seeing
the towers of modern New York rise was that
they look[ed] devoid of life; their surfaces
are closed and dead. They were no longer
part of the city below, and upon entering one
had to leave the atmosphere of the city for a
closed-off, air-conditioned world.
Scully felt that an architects responsibility
was to design buildings that fit, in a
civilized manner, into the man-made
environment. At a different crossroads
in New York history, Scully was a vocal
critic of the 1963 destruction of the original
Beaux-Arts-styled Penn Station rail terminal
Saigon is at a crossroads now, similar to the

one New York faced in 1963. Modern New
York was built on the bones of demolished
buildings there wouldnt be a Times
Square without them.
But modern New York was also born
of the historic consciousness of its public.
Three years after Penn Station fell, the
National Historic Preservation Act became
law. Such an integral part of New Yorks
fabric never fell again.
213 Dong Khoi wasnt the original Penn
Station, but it was a building that mattered
to many people, a building with 85 years
of history and point-of-reference status in
cultural touchstones like The Quiet American.
And now its been excised from the modern
city forever.
Tim Doling was prominently involved
with raising consciousness about 213, and
he thinks that its loss might not have been
completely in vain... It has received a great
deal of publicity, and many concerned local
people (not just expats!) now seem to be
questioning the speed at which old buildings
are being destroyed in Ho Chi Minh City.
For the rest of us, theres a new concern
on the horizon. The 126-year-old former
Cochinchina government secretariat at
59 - 61 Ly Tu Trong, directly behind 213
Dong Khoi, has been slated for renovation.
Recessed from the street, its not as
immediate a landmark as 213, but it has
been a foundational block of the modern
city for as long as it has existed. Its one of
those buildings that we wont miss until its
gone, until its only a fading photograph
from old Saigon.
But there might be some hope for
compromise here, the kind well need for
the modern city to resemble its past. Tim
says, I hear they are commissioning a
new competition for designs which retain/
incorporate the old building rather than
destroy it.
I really hope that the powers that be
will recognise the heritage value of that
building and find an alternative solution to
demolition. Ed Weinberg
The From Saigon blog is at from-saigon.
tumblr.com. Site selection and guidance comes
from Tim Doling. To see his work on the history
of Vietnam, go to historicvietnam.com
HCMC
TOKYO BBQ
JAPANESE BARBECUE
15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2527
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this
a great drinking and dining
venue
WARDA
MIDDLE-EASTERN
71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3822
info@wardavn.com
The deep colours, Arabic dcor and cushioned outdoor
terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.
The food is good, too, taking
in tabouleh, houmous, falafel
and mutabbal, shwarmas
and more. Sells authentic
shisha.
WRAP & ROLL

3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.
YAMANEKO
JAPANESE / OKINAWA
(08) 3823 8433
yamanekovn.com
Funky Yamaneko down an
alley off Le Thanh Ton offers delicious, unpretentious
Okinawan fare alongside
mainland staples. Does a
great set lunch deal.
YU CHU
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 3520 9999
Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles,
fresh dim sum and hot wok
dishes within an impeccably
designed open kitchen, as
diners look on. Stylish and
spectacular.
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

ANUPA YOGA
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2394
anupa.net/yoga-anupa
CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE
FITNESS CENTRE
Queen Ann Building, 2830
32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
5999
Cfyc.com.vn
NUTRIFORT
GENERAL FITNESS
2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8560
nutrifort.com
Offers fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. There is also a
spa and a restaurant serving
caloriecalibrated meals.
RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH

CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033
SAIGON FITNESS CO.
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
SHERATON FITNESS
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

3824 1555
THE LANDMARK CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext. 176
In addition to the squash
court, facilities include a
fullyequipped gym room, a
rooftop swimming pool and
separate male and female
saunas.
GALLERIES
BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART
GALLERY
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 3695
bluespacearts.com
DOGMA
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese
propaganda art and a collection put together over the
last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the
majority of the work comes
from the war period when
provocative poster art was
used to inspire and motivate.
Sells prints of the originals
and related products.
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS

MUSEUM
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 4441
baotangmythuattphcm.vn
PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3181
07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 3166
phuongmaigallery.com
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

(08) 3822 9332
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from
the likes of Fauchon. The
deli upstairs in the Hai Ba
Trung branch serves tasty
baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free
WiFi, and offers probably
the best selection of cheese
and cured meats in town.
Free delivery for Districts 1,
2 and 3.
BACCHUS CORNER
WINE SHOP
158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 3306
bacchuscorner.com
A range of spirits, whiskies
and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over
the world with an especially
good selection from France,
Chile and South Africa. Also
has an excellent range of
single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an onsite
wine tasting machine, the
Enomatic, the first of its kind
in Vietnam.
DALOC
WINE SHOP
74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 5404 3575
daloc.vn
KIM HAI BUTCHERS
BUTCHERS
73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 4376
kimhai.vn
PHUONG HA
GROCERS
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 1318
RED APRON
WINE SHOP
22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 0021
THAI HA
GROCERS
60 Ham Nghi, Q1
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE SHOP
(08) 3825 8826
One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition
to their excellent range of
wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled min-
HCMC
A WORLD
OF
CELEBRITY HANDWRINGING
n the rabble and noise created by

nonprofits vying for donors limited
attention and ever-shrinking funding
pools, an enterprising NGO needs a
plan a brilliant plan!
Enter the celebrity endorsement. Theyre
great for raising gazillions for the aid
agencies that can harness the gods and
goddesses of fame. These stars typically
raise awareness on topics people are
unlikely to care about, such as deadly strife
in distant lands or the plight of migrants.
Celebrities can bring reach, exposure and
a level of imminence to global issues and
much needed cash. It should be win-win.
Not, however, according to one
Canadian professor who calls celebrity
activism humanitainment. Dr. Ian
Kapoor of York University says the rich
and famous are merely exercising brand
extension opportunities. He may have a
point. After all, who decided that Bono
is an expert on HIV/AIDS or Bob Geldof
is the go-to guy on structural deficit?
Critics argue this dependency on glamour
means the rest of us transpose our fleeting
concern to a glorified, but unaccountable
jet set, while the celebrities disguise
narcissism with altruism. Theres no lack
of examples.
Angelina Jolie accepts humanitainment

awards created especially for her. Naomi
Campbell broke her vow on fur. Scarlett
Johansson and Oxfam. George Clooney
and Sudan. The particularly wrongheaded
#BringBackOurGirls hashtag. (Where
was the storm of Twitter tut-tutting when
Boko Haram murdered school boys this
past February?) Its also fair to point
out the organisation I work for partners
with celebrity chefs with cultural ties to
Vietnam for fundraising because we feel
its a sensible fit.
The Perfect Match?

However, the following is not a sensible
fit. Insert a random television actor into a
country they dont know, cant name and
with an INGO whose mission they didnt
ask about. Go abroad for heart-wrenching
publicity purposes and this is what you
end up with. I get the impression that in
Africa people have sex far more freely than
we do back home, remarked Downton
Abbey star Elizabeth McGovern on a trip
to Sierra Leone. I wonder if World Vision
would take on the problem of women
wearing the burka. And that clitoris thing
is awful. Eye-watering, isnt it?
Do the people affected by famine or
GOOD
BY DANA MCNAIRN
trafficking really need our pouting selfies,

tear-stained tweets and petulant calls
for someone (typically the US military)
to do something? Do the armchair
slacktavists help or hinder? Perhaps
whats needed is less emphasis on starwattage and instead on creating space
for genuine experts to weigh in on these
philanthropic debates with, well, expert
opinion. Ending the horror of (insert
cause here) isnt going to happen with a
hashtag or a plastic bracelet or because
a rock star wishes it so. Educate yourself
about the women and men who have
been working for decades trying to do
something in the country where (insert
cause here) happens. Focus on what
real action you can take with your local
government to bring political pressure on
the issues you care about. Express your
support for the unsung campaigners in the
field striving for transformative change.
Let these communities champion their
own spokespersons and ambassadors.
Who knows, they might even turn into
celebrities.
Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit
social enterprise and vocational training
programme for at-risk youth. She can be
contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au
HCMC
eral water and spirits.
VEGGYS
GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8526
VINIFERA
WINE SHOP
7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0860
viniferavn.com
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP
74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6299 1315
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines.
Also offers regular popular
wine courses. The outdoor
terrace area is the perfect
spot to sample a new vintage.
HAIRDRESSERS
VENUS
41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3829 6298
MEDICAL & DENTAL

ACCADENT
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com
CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI)
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic
provides general practice
and a range of specialties
including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and
traditional medicine.
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.
FV SAIGON CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6290 6167
fvhospital.com
Stateoftheart medical
centre located in District
1. Experienced American,
French, and Vietnamese
doctors provide the full
spectrum health care. Plus
sports medicine, cosmetic
treatments, skin care and
surgical consultations.
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3827 6999
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic
offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to
treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and
facial care team. The clinic
utilises the latest therapies.
WESTCOAST INTL DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL
CLINIC
Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6999
The Practice, Level 1, 71-79
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
6777
westcoastinternational.com
An international dental clinic
equipped with the latest
technology, the comfortable
clinics offer cosmetic and
implant dentistry with a focus on making each patients
experience anxiety and pain
free.
SALONS & SPAS

AQUA DAY SPA
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
aquadayspasaigon.com
FAME NAILS SALON

3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909
682 827
famenails.com
GLOW SPA
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8368
glowsaigon.com
Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages
lasting from 30 minutes, to
two-hour hot stone therapy,
includes one suite with a
Jacuzzi bath; offers hand
and foot care and a hair
styling area.
INDOCHINE SPA
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a
peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic
scents and lulling melodies.
Customers are pampered
by qualified therapists using
natural French products in
a clean and pleasant environment.
JASMINE
(08) 3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
Sparelated salon with a

good reputation for quality
and comfort offers washes
and leisurely haircuts from
VND330,000 plus a range of
related services including
massage and some excellent treatments.
MEKONG BLISS SPA

112, Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
6299 0563
10am to 10pm (last booking
9.30pm)
Q SPA & SALON

31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08)
3905 4609
Qspaandsalon.com
An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with
wooden floors, flowers and
flowing drapes makes this
an excellent atmosphere in
which to enjoy a massage.
Also offers hair styling and
facials.
ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Specialising in all forms of
skincare, this is welldesigned, ambient and outfitted
day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and
foot treatments.
SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND

HEALTH CLUB
3rd Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3520 9999
THANH SANCTUARY
Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
0885
THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL

CLUB
22nd floor, Sailing Tower,
111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
2220 2600
spa1960.vn
THE SPA
Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu
Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3514 9007
Saigon Centre, 3M Floor,
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
1800
thespavietnam.com
THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
XUAN SPA
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
1234
hyattpure.com
simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
FOOD PROMOS
Provided by Park Hyatt
The Emperor of Chefs

Culinary legend Auguste Escoffier chef
to emperors, kitchen runner of the Ritz
Carlton, inventor of Melba toast is being
celebrated at the Caravelle Hotel from
Jun. 21 to Jun. 27, with a showcase of the
fin-de-sicle masters recipes from Le Guide
Culinary. Known for giving the world
the a la carte menu, as well as classic
French dishes such as Tournedos Rossini,
Omelette Arnold Bennett and Cherries
Jubilee, Escoffier catered to European
royalty and established kitchens in some of
the worlds grandest hotels over the course

of a 62-year career. Experience Escoffiers
genius in a four-course Auguste Escoffier
Degustation Menu at Reflections priced
at VND1,488,000++.
The Artistry of Auguste Escoffier is on-hand
at Reflections at the Caravelle Hotel 19-23
Lam Son Square, Q1 from Jun. 21 to Jun.
27. For more information, call (08) 3823 4999
or email eam-fb@caravellehotel.com
Macaroon Month
June is Macaroon Month at the Park Hyatt,
with Head Chef of Pastry Bertrand

Sommereux leading the way. These bitesized slices of perfection will accompany
every tea and coffee order, in blueberry,
vanilla, strawberry, chocolate, coffee,
matcha and salted caramel varieties.
Originally from France, this sweet
meringue-based confection is well-loved
by gourmets around the world. A chefs
selection of assorted macaroons is also
available for VND170,000++.
Macaroon Month is June at the Park Hyatt.
Check parkhyatt.com for more info
HCMC
GINKGO
pham ngu lao
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING

& ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
GALLERIES
BAKERIES
CRUMBS
BAKERY
117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 1992
crumbs.com.vn
Dubbed the local bakery,
Crumbs serves up a variety
of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and
garlicbased buns and loafs,
meatfilled pastries, sweet
pastries, healthconscious
breads and more. There is
also a breakfast menu and
variety of sandwiches available.
TOUS LES JOURS
KOREAN BAKERY
(08) 3914 4350
BARS & CLUBS

BIA TUOI 33
BIA HOI
33 Bui Vien, Q1
BREAD & BUTTER
ternational and Vietnamese

cuisine. Check out their daily
drink specials and Tuesday
night pub quizzes.
LONG PHI
FRENCH / RESTOBAR
3837 2704
French-run but universally
appealing, Long Phi has been
serving the backpacker area
with excellent cuisine and
occasional live music since
1990. Excellent late-night
bistro cuisine.
SAIGON VIBRATIONS
REGGAE BAR
143 Nguyen Trai, Q1
facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae
inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the
name of that most special
of sounds the one from
Jamaica.
SEVENTEEN SALOON
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT
FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8452
With a free book exchange,
and tasty Sunday night
roasts, the tiny Bread &
Butter is a perfect place for
homesick expats and beer
enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served
here exclusively in Ho Chi
Minh City).
THEMED MUSIC BAR

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
Wild West-themed bar
doubles as a music venue,
where three talented Filipino
bands (B&U, Wild West and
Most Wanted) play covers of
rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2
and Guns n Roses. Top shelf
spirits and friendly, hostess
style table service are the
name game here.
GO2
SPOTTED COW
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 9575
GODMOTHER BAR
RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE /
WESTERN
3832 4589
godmothersaigon.com
Only a couple blocks from
the bru-haha of Bui Vien,
Godmothers is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent
mojitos, good food, and the
weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJs.
LE PUB
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
Tel: (08) 3837 7679
Warm colors, artsy dcor
and a friendly ambiance
combine to create a perfect
setting for enjoying tasty in-
INTERNATIONAL / SPORT
3920 7670
Alfrescosgroup.com
Spotted Cow delivers the
fun-loving atmosphere that
its playfully decorated black
and white spotted interior
promises, as well as decent
international comfort food,
a range of happy hours, live
sports, and darts.
THE OBSERVATORY
BAR, ART & MUSIC SPACE

Cnr. Le Lai and Ton That
Tung, Q1, Tel: 0906 359440
theobservatory-hcmc.com
The Observatory is DJ Hibiya Line's new youth culture
hub, just off Pham Ngo Lao.
With its two-floor, nook-andcranny setup, it combines
caf culture, cocktails, art,
DJ nights now the home
base for the Optimist Club
live music and various "hap-
penings", sprinkling them

throughout its cozy corners.
THI CAF
LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE

224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2929
T&R TAVERN
DIVE BAR
57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 9839
UNIVERSAL BAR
LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR

90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633
343933
universalbarsaigon.com
CAFES
BOBBY BREWERS
INTERNATIONAL
3920 4090
bobbybrewers.com
Choose from a full range
of caf beverages and a
fast-food style menu as you
watch the latest Hollywood
hits in their upstairs lounge.
Check website for movie locations and schedule.
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
MARATHON
BUDGET CLOTHING
3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019
PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
papaya-tshirt.com
ORANGE
BUDGET CLOTHING
3820 2620
9am to 10pm
U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:
0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 9780
EAT
CHICCO DICAFF CAF
ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE

213 Bui Vien, Q1
facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee
Set just off the street on the
quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco
Dicaff serves an expat and
local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured
concoctions, from a five-seat
coffee bar.
INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.

BAM SKATE SHOP
SKATEWEAR / STREET
641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BLUE DRAGON
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2084
8am to 10.30pm
BABAS KITCHEN

3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian
does the full range of fare
from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka
masala, kormas, kebabs and
fiery vindaloos.
BURRITO REVOLUTION
TEX-MEX / STREET STALL

714882
CHIS CAF
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable caf is a rarity
in the backpacker area for
its genuinely good musical
playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked
potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a
popular motorbike rental
service.
CORIANDER
THAI / VIETNAMESE
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837
1311
JJS FISH N CHIPS
FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL

Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De
Tham, Q1
LA CANTINA
TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
MARGHERITA
ITALIAN / TEX-MEX
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
SISTERS CAFE
VIETNAMESE/WESTERN
Tel: 0903 643446
Light wood paneling, beige
walls and locally themed
artwork help to create a
fresh and airy ambience in
this caf-cum-restaurant
that is owned by the woman
behind Chis Caf. Also does
visa extensions and motorbike rental.
THE HUNGRY PIG
BACON BAR / CAFE

3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and
more bacon, all set in airy,
spacious atmosphere, and
you get The Hungry Pig, an
eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty
through to the bacon Caesar.
A popular hangout.
TIN NGHIA
VEGAN
(08) 3821 2538
One of the citys oldest eateries (established in 1925)
does some of the cheapest
and tastiest vegan cuisine in
town, all cooked up without
onions, garlic or MSG.
WRAP & ROLL

226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check
out the second floor, junglein-the-wall dcor at this
particular branch. Unique
and refreshing.
infatuated venue is a caf

and restaurant by day and
a sidewalk drinking joint
by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.
GALLERIES
GALERIE QUYNH
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8019
galeriequynh.com
In addition to working with
artists based in Vietnam,
Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from
around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports
education through talks, lectures and publications.
TATTOO ARTISTS
With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over
the past few years there
has been an increase in
the number of tattoo studios around the city.
Customers have the
choice of picking their
own tattoo out of the
many look books on offer
in the studios or bringing
in their own design. Most
of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.
Pricing depends on size
and style.
LAC VIET TATTOO 608
Dien Bien Phu, Q10

Tel: (08) 3830 4668
106 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: (08) 3821 7068
lacviettattoo.com
SAIGON BODY ART
135 Cong Quynh, Q1

Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com
SAIGON INK
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1

Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com
SAIGON TATTOO
31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net
SAIGON TATTOO GROUP

81 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn
TATTOO SAIGON
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1

Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com
TATTOO TAM BI
209 Bui Vien, Q1

Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat.com
ZEUS
GREEK / KEBAB
3837 3248
ZOOM CAF
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures.
com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespa-

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
district 1
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

/ COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL

37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1,
Tel: 0906 780081
CHILL SKYBAR
LOUNGE RESTOBAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
Chills view has only been
improved by the addition of
a magnificent VIP terrace.
A substantial wine list and
specialities from the owners
native Denmark complement
the primarily French-influenced cuisine.
HOA VIEN
CZECH BREWHOUSE
3825 8605
hoavien.vn
MZ CLUB
LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB

56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 5258
m-zing.com
SHOOTERS BEER HOUSE

31 Le Quy Don, Q1
VUVUZELA

11 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3910 2281
BOOKS
LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM
PHONG
82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 7858
Nam Phong Bookstore was
founded at the of end 2002 in
Ho Chi Minh City as the first
and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.
Only books written in French
are for sale, covering for all
ages and tastes. A catalogue
is available at namphongsaigon.com
CAFES
(A) CAFE
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da
Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,

Q1, Tel: 01699 990003
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
A small but swanky cafe,
Banksy promises a young
and vibrant hideout in an
old 1960s-era apartment
building. Remember to head
up the steep stairs within to
dig into their secret stash of
clothes and accessories.
CAFE THOAI VIEN

159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: 0918 115657
cafethoaivien.com
Veer off the street and find
yourself plunging straight
into lush greenery. Cafe
Thoai Vien serves up a
spacious and airy setting
to enjoy a quiet sip. From
small eats to big bites and
everything to drink, its a
great place to unwind from
all that buzz.
INTERNATIONAL
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3833 3648
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
DECIBEL
INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense,
this two-floor, relaxed caf
offers beautiful decor and
unique original events like
live music, film screenings,
and art exhibits. Great prices
and food with daily specials.
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH
97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3844 3295
saigongivral.com
KEM NHAN
ICE CREAM PARLOUR

4 Truong Han Sieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6674 6763
LE PETIT CAF
BOSSINI
GAYA CLOTHING
THINGS CAFE
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
Feel the calm and serenity
of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old
Apartment. The quaint and
relaxing atmosphere sets for
some alone time, or quality
conversations held over a
drink or two.
HAND-MADE / DESIGNER
Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van
Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925
1495
Gayavietnam.com
Clothing is designed and
tailor-made by renowned
designer Romyda Keth, and
concentrates mainly on
womens wear. Gaya sells
colourful, sexy evening
dresses, embroidered floral
skirts and cute chiffon tops.
THUY NGA DESIGN
BUSINESSWEAR / CASUAL
19-21 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3820 3574
thuyngadesign.com
8am to 8pm
COOKING CLASSES
OVERLAND CLUB
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm
The Overland Club organises
pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
monthly special activities,
such as the Soba Festival,
pottery painting classes, the
art of decorating paper and
multinational cuisine days.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BOO
STREETWEAR
134 Nguyen Trai, Q1
boo.vn
GAYA
Huu
C
Ng
uy
en
g
Ng
.H
ue
Ham Nghi
District 2
t
Kie
District 4
Vo
MOCKINGBIRD CAFE
2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,

Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
Fancy being served up by
maids in costume? Call for
a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking
while spending an afternoon
in this candy-land inspired
cafe.
cT
ha
n
ng
n
Va
FRENCH
112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6291 2067
THE OTHER PERSON CAFE
Th
an
g8
UNISEX CASUAL WEAR

22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3839 2292
Bossini.com
4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,

Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
Sitting atop of a number of
cafe establishments in an old
apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a
romantic time over mojitos,
or good ol caffeine-infused
relaxation.
Du
Th
i
Le
ng
LAN MIEN DINING CAFE
76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
2718
The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of
this popular, contemporary
caf. Enjoy live music on
weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese
or espresso-based coffee.
Du
Ng
uy
en
Ma
Tr
u
Le
Lo
i
District
10
an
n
Bi
e
ie
n
Ca
ch
Kh
ai
Ph
BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)
BANKSY CAFE
District 3
Ba
h
an
Da
o
QUAN NHAU
18A/31/B22 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, Q1
Ha
i
Hu
ng
ANH DUCS
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben
Thanh Market, i.d offers
casual caf dining with a
wide variety of food and
beverages. Where modern
design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.
Tr
an

79 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, Tel:
0919 584884
info@ahoybeerclub.vn
I.D. CAF
To
n
Ho
AHOY BEER CLUB
Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews
in Saigon. Using own grown
and specially sourced Dalat
beans, speciality coffee such
as cold drip, siphon, and
Chemex are must haves for
the avid coffee drinker.
an
g
in
h
en
Ti
BARS & CLUBS
Binh Thanh
in
h
CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 1495
gayavietnam.com
Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II

buildings in the city, Gaya has
a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps
and tableware, with all products both constructed and
designed locally. You can
find a wide range of mirrors
and lacquerware with bowls,
vases and contemporary
Asian-style boxes as well as
a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all
colours and designs. Prices
here match the quality of the
products.
EAT
BANH XEO 46A
BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE

46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 1110
CAF IF
VIETNAMESE FRENCH
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3846 9853
MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a
French twist, cooked fresh
to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and
beef stew, stir fries, hot pots
and curries.
COBALT
ROOFTOP RESTOBAR
Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon
Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686
pullman-saigon-centre.com
A tapas-style contemporary
international menu in an
equally modern chic space,
Cobalt also has panoramic
views over the city thanks to
its 30th-floor location. Has a
focus on wine matching and
tasting. A hotel restaurant
with a difference.
COM TAM THUAN KIEU
COM TAM (BITTY RICE)

26 Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 0935
comtamthuankieu.com.vn
DYNASTY
CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Elegant surroundings, top
quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable,
roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese
restaurants in town, with a
classic dim sum menu.
LION CITY
SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery,
plating up the likes of nasi
lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well
as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish
head curry.
MAY RESTAURANT
INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE
3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08)
3910 1277
May-cloud.com
Meaning Cloud, May utilises homemade recipes
and broths developed by the
restaurateurs father, such
as pan-fried duck breast
served with nuoc mam and
ginger, and 1940s style
spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in
an Indochine atmosphere.
HCMC
MONSOON
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)
6290 8899
Traditional pan-Southeast
Asian favourites served in
a visually arresting setting
within a French colonial-era
villa, just minutes from the
backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy
juices and smoothies.
NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE
AMERICAN / FRENCH
2527 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373
steakhouse.com.vn
NYSW is well known for
serving up formidable prime
signature cuts of New York
strip steak, rib eye, double
strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.
QUAN UT UT
AMERICAN VIETNAMESE GRILL

168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 4500
quanutut.com
On-site American grilltype fare in a Vietnamese,
wooden table setting. Think
ribs, burgers and all things
hearty at this immensely
popular eatery.
PARKVIEW
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Flagship restaurant of The
New World Hotel, serving
lavish buffets all day. Many
cooking stations ranging
from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads,
cold cuts, cheese plates and
desserts.
PHAP HOA
VEGETARIAN
3839 5893
QUAN BUI
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3602 2241
Make sure to try the sauted
shrimps with cashew nuts
and crispy fried tofu with
lime wedge, at this popular,
high-quality eatery where all
food is served in traditional
crockery.
TAN HAI VAN
PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES
3925 0824
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH

DAN
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 7751

STAR FITNESS GYM
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91
Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253
Steve Chipman, who had a
hand in establishing gyms
at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness one of
Vietnams largest and bestequipped gyms.
THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & POOL

Ruby Towers Saigon
Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514
9009
saigonriverclub.com
GALLERIES
CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel:
0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Located in a quiet corner
of District 1, Craig Thomas
Gallery offers a compelling
mix of up-and-coming and
established local artists. In
operation since 2009, its
founder has been promoting
Vietnamese art for a decade.
SAN ART
3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel:
(08) 3840 0183
San-art.org
San Art is an independent,
artist-run exhibition space
that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an
exchange programme that
invites international artists/
curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
CITYSMART
Horizon Tower, 214 Tran
Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3526 8833
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills
and character building for
comprehensive development.
GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF

VIETNAM
Somerset Chancellor Court,
1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
7008
gymboreeclasses.com.vn
VAS
23 Tran Cao Van, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 7278
vas.edu.vn
re.com
MEDICAL & DENTAL

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3925 1990
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 4545
Well-regarded clinic offering
general examinations and
specialising in pediatrics,
digestive diseases, cardiology, womens health and
internal medicine. Offers a
membership programme
and cooperates with most
insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.
WE LINK
COUNSELLING
64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 2900
contact@welink.vn
Psychological counselling services for individual,
group and family. Diverse
counsellors and therapists,
using Cognitive Behaviour
Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For
adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French
and Spanish spoken.
SALONS & SPAS

CAT MOC SPA
63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)
6295 8926
catmocspa.com
Aimed exclusively at ladies
and couples only, treatments
at this Japanese spa include
facial, body and foot care,
and Japanese-style haircuts,
as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.
SPA TROPIC
79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910

5575
spatropic.com
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean
Consulate. Spa Tropic has
a long-standing reputation
among expats and visitors
alike for its professional
quality service.
HCMC
district 2
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS

& FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR &
WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL /
SALONS & SPAS
DISTRICT 2
g
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Ni
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Bn
Thao Dien
i
Qu
Located in a villa-style
building, this An Phu-based
shop stocks antique repro
furniture. All products are
samples, so its limited and
exclusive with only one or
two pieces of each particular
item. Also has a great range
of imported fabrics up on the
2nd floor and an in-house
sewing room for cushions,
sofas and curtains. Offers
custom-made furniture and
delivery within four weeks.
Home dcor orders are also
available.
Ng
uy
n
V
n
Xa
Binh Thanh
Ngu
o
ng
c H
Qu
n
N
Xun Th
y
Xun Th
BAKERY
Tel: (08) 6281 8392
The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien,
Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries
such as croissants, pain au
chocolat, pain raisins, pizza
dough, pates feuillete and
much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc,
Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and
Ho Chi Minh City.
LOAVES & FISHES
BAKERY / CAFE
5, Street 11, Thao Dien, Q2
Tel: (08) 3519 4118
harvestbaking.net
PAT A CHOU
FRENCH BAKERY
25 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3743 2445
VOELKER
BAKERY
6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
Frenchrun bakery selling
probably the tastiest range
of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passionfruit tart is
a must try.
BARS & CLUBS

BAAN THAI
SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE
Xa
DISTRICT 2
3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
A bar and a Thai restaurant
all in one, the focus here is
not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live
sports. Lots of live sports.
The Thai cuisine is cooked
up by no-holds-barred Thai
chefs.
BMV PUB & GRILL

38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel:
01299 839314
facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill
With its seven TVs, full-size
mezzanine area, pool table
and aircon lounge space,
BMV is the perfect place in
District 2 to relax and watch
the sports. Has live music on
Thursday and Friday nights,
and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in
Thao Dien.
BUDDHA BAR
RESTOBAR
3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
Just across the lane from
McSorleys, this pub with an
eccentric European tilt and
some nice, authentic cuisine
draws an older crowd with
darts, pool and weekly poker
tourneys.
MCSORLEYS
IRISH BAR
4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126
9026006
Standing in the former home
of Gaudi, McSorelys is full of
Th
Tr
BAKEUP ATELIER
g
n Hon
Hu Cnh
BAKERIES
Ni
nh
Song H
Nguy
n
uy
Ng
No
Trn
nh
Song H
n No
Xa
Mai Ch
ng
H
y n Vn
Binh Thanh
Th
CHI LAI
HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese
furniture brand is a good
choice for most families
with its respected high-quality designs and competitive
prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and
Dien Bien Phu, the spacious
showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such
as table sets, shelves and
kitchen cabinets. There is a
large selection of carpets as
well as numerous choices of
curtains and accessories.
FEELING TROPIC
surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool,
reggae parties, comedy
nights, and sporting events
projected onto the patio wall.
SAIGON OUTCAST
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAF BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com
Up-cycling and innovative
design form the foundation
for this bar / arts venue /
mini- skate park. Come for
barbeque and reasonably
priced drinks, stick around
for entertaining events and
adorable puppies.
THE FAN CLUB
SPORTS BAR
Ground Floor, The Vista,
628C Hanoi Highway, Q2
dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub
12 quality screens and eight
draught beers, music spun
by DJs, excellent burgers,
quiz nights and barbecues.
All in an attractive, contemporary environment.
CAFES
AGNES CAFE
COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable cafe
in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat,
smoothies, juices, pastries
and desserts all day. Offers
a western-fare breakfast,
lunch and dinner menu with
a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with

salads and more typical
international cuisine. Now
open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed
and intimate.
CAF EVITA
LAID-BACK CAF / RESTAURANT

230A Nguyen Van Huong,
Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512
3888

LITTLE ANH-EM
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: 0917 567506
In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies
and children up to 10 years
old, Little Anh-Em stocks
sleeping bags and other accessories.
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

AUSTIN HOME
REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 0023
austinhomeinteriors.com
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181
8am to 6pm, closed Sundays
Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this
three-storey building is so
packed full of items for sale
that it doesnt seem to have
enough space for all of its
products. The basement
storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets,
while the second level stocks
all types of indoor furniture
except beds. Accessories
are found on the level above.
Special orders are taken for
delivery within three weeks.
Also offers a rental service.
THE FURNITURE HOUSE
HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643
EAT
AGNES CAF
CAF FARE / TEX-MEX

11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable caf
offering up a western-fare
breakfast, lunch and dinner
menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in
with salads and more typical
international cuisine. Open
until 10pm.
BAAN THAI
PAN-THAI
3744 5453
SHOPPING MALLS
DIAMOND PLAZA
34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08)
3825 7750
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel:
(08) 2222 0383
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
PARKSON PLAZA
35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3827 7636
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
SAIGON CENTRE
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)
3829 4888
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
SAIGON SQUARE
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,
Q1
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics
SAIGON TAX
Trading Centre
135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3821 3849
9am to 9.30pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics, Souvenirs,
Restaurant
VINCOM CENTER
70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3936 9999
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
ZEN PLAZA
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel:
(08) 3925 0339
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
baanthai-anphu.com
Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this
An Phu eatery. The menu
has a whole page dedicated
to tom yum soup as well
as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine
cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.
HCMC
SPORTS
BOAT HOUSE
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790
Live music, mini-festivals and
functions are regular events
at this spacious restobar in
An Phu on the banks of the
Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.
LA CLOSERIE DELISA
CRICKET
ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET
CLUB OF SAIGON)
Richard Carrington, Tel:
0909 967 353
richard.carrington@market-edge.asia
eccsaigon.com
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF

SAIGON)
Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228
770 038
deepteshgill@gmail.com
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN

SAIGON)
Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
973 244
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON

CRICKET CLUB)
Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail.
com
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA

CRICKET CLUB)
Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903
998 824
SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM
SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)
Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB)

Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908
200 598
manish@ambrij.com
FOOTBALL
AND
RUGBY
024 or Viet Luu 0909 500

171.
astere@hotmail.fr
SAIGON RAIDERS
Saigonraiders.com
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
saigonrugbyfootballclub@
yahoo.com
SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
SPORTS GENERAL
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS

LEAGUE
thesidl.com
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL

CLUB
saigonshootersnetball.
blogspot.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
SQUASH
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext 176
TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

436A/33 Ba Thang Hai,
Q10, Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn
AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van

Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com
XROCK CLIMBING
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON
7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,

Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
Contact Fred on 0919 709
FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT

52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2
A tropical garden ambience
that is at once French yet
contemporary Indochinese
is the home of this table
dhote style restaurant and
bar. Classic French cuisine
at reasonable prices in the
heart of Thao Dien.
LA PLANCHA
(08) 6281 8521
LU BU
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08)
6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
Drawing inspiration from
the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean
and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run
restaurant bathed in white
focuses on wholesome,
fresh ingredients, with
breads, cheeses, pickles,
pastas and preserves made
on site daily from scratch. A
well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.
Has petanque on the terrace.
Saturday evenings. Have a

second restaurant in Mui Ne.
THE DECK
MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon
River across from Thanh
Da Island, this innovative
restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a
Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails
and a long wine list.
THE LOOP
HEALTHY CAF FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)
3602 6385

AQUAFIT
AQUABIKING
65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao
Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
008985
aquafit.vn
K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY
BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS

100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: 0909 540030
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS
(08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also
offering fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes

include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving caloriecalibrated meals.
CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER
BOXING / FITNESS
49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel:
0947 771326
cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An Phu,
started by fitness guru Cyril
Terrones, features the same
personalised mentorship
Cyrils clients love. Includes
Zumba, salsa, boxing and
fitness for kids and adults
every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes
in installments of 10. Also
has kids classes. Boxing on
Tuesday and Saturday at
4pm and circuit training on
Thursday at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril
himself.
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE

100%
MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES

26B Thao Dien, Q2
100percentvn.com
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2630
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from the
likes of Fauchon. The deli
upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung
branch serves tasty baguette
rolls in a comfortable lounge
area with free WiFi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured
meats in town. Free delivery
for Districts 1, 2 and 3.
CLASSIC FINE FOODS
GROCERIES & IMPORTER

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street),
Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the citys five
star hotels, also distributing
brands like San Pellegrino,
Rougie foie gras, Galbani
cheese, fresh poultries,
meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all
the products at the gourmet
shop on location.
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP
Corner of Thao Dien & Duong
2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
MEKONG MERCHANT
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE /

SEAFOOD
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6478
info@mekongmerchant.com
The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the
place in An Phu. Set around
a cobble-stoned courtyard
the cuisine includes gourmet
seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.
PAPAGAYO
FRENCH BISTRO / COCKTAILS

(08) 6252 1333
facebook.com/papagayosaigon
TAMAGO
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag
in Thao Dien, Tamago has
indoor and out door seating,
a terrace and private rooms.
They have a ladies night on
Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on
HCMC
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines
with a portfolio spanning
old and new world as well
as everything in between.
The outdoor terrace area is
the perfect spot to sample a
new tipple.
HAIRDRESSERS
ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON
HAIR & BEAUTY
Fideco Riverview Building,
3744 6475
anthony@aglondonsalon.
com.vn
CONCEPT COIFFURE
(08) 3519 4625
Conceptcoiffure.vn
Open daily from 9am to 8pm
Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship
salon Venus Coiffure to a villa
in Thao Dien. A full range of
services is offered including
a dedicated kids salon.
and IB Diploma Programme

(DP).
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (BIS)
Tel: (08) 3744 2335
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved
by the British Government,
BIS provides a British style
curriculum for an international student body from
pre-school to Year 13. The
school is staffed by British
qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by
the Council of International
Schools and a member of
FOBISIA, BIS is the largest
international school in Vietnam.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI

MINH CITY (ISHCMC)
(08) 3898 9100
ishcmc.com
The only fully authorized IB
World School in Ho Chi Minh
City, ISHCMC has been
awarding graduates with an
IB Diploma and sending them
off to high-profile overseas
universities since 1999.
MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS)
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao
Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam.
Tel: (08) 7300 7257
info@eishcmc.com
www.eishcmc.com
Located in the heart of Thao
Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School
Ho Chi Minh City offers a
supportive and challenging
academic education from
Early Years to Grade 12
based on the IB curriculum.
EIS is a Nobel Talent School
and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school
educates global citizens to
enjoy learning, inquiring and
caring for others.
AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (AIS)
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744
6960; Thu Thiem Campus,
264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West
Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International
School is an IB World School
with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering
an international education
from kindergarten to senior
school with the IB Primary
Years Programme (PYP),
Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE)
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage childrens engagement with
their surroundings, MIS
offers children from age
three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as
a variety of extracurricular
activities.
SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL

CHILDCARE CENTRE
15 Street 12, perpendicular
to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
3740 8081
saigonkidskindergarten.
com
SKECC has evolved over 10
years to create a creative,
playful learning environment for children ages two
to six. Limited class sizes and
highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for
all students.
SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL
Residential Area No. 5,
Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge
International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates
Montessori methods into
nursery and kindergarten
programmes to create a
stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes
allow experienced teachers
to cater to individual needs.
SMARTKIDS
1172 Thao Dien Compound,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare
centre provides children
ages 18 months to six years
with a high quality education
in a playful and friendly environment.
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL

OF VIETNAM
172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
theamericanschool.edu.vn
KIDS
FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
www.firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for
two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training
wheels or stabilisers, and
support proper balance development.
MEDICAL & DENTAL
district 3
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES /

CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS /
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
BARS & CLUBS
ACOUSTIC
LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3930 2239
Though only 1km from the
city centre, Acoustic is well
off most foreigners radars.
Come see the Vietnamese
house band play nightly, as
well as performances from
overseas bands and guest
artists.
CLOUD 9
LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE

6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong
Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel:
0907 502951
CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS
LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE

224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948
031323
3744 2000
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
GREGORY BEALE
THERAPY
01268 654 202
gregbealetherapyfitness.
com
SALONS & SPAS

AUTHENTIC SPA
Thao Dien Village, Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744
2222
AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON
104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,

Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321
WOODSTOCK BAR
MUSIC BAR / CAFE

39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3.
Tel: (08) 39304075
metallicbar.com
Showcases a variety of different types of music anything from rock, pop and rap
to Latino as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica,
Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana
and Guns n Roses. Covered
live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music
starts at 8.30pm.
PLAN B
CONTEMPORARY BAR
0987 684761
ONTOP BAR
Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba
Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822
4866
Located on the 20th floor
with stunning views of the
city, houses an upscale,
contemporary interior and
an outdoor terrace. A good
venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip
ambience.
ROCKFANCLUB BAR
simply email us on
well try our best
ROCK BAR
25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08)
6290 7489
CAFES & ICE-CREAM

ANS INTERIOR CAF
40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3823 3398
BUDS
ICE-CREAM PARLOUR
Tel: (08) 3932 2778
budsicecream.com.vn
HIDEAWAY
INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building
with an outdoor courwrd,
the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to
relax. The mouth-watering
western menu is on the expensive side.
OPERATION: TEAROOM
TEA ROOM
335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3,
Tel: 0169 3583563
operationteavietnam.com
Traverse a wooden bridge
over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000,
in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware
available for purchase.
BANH CANH HOANG TY
BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
Namsonsteak.com
HIGHWAY 4
NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE
3602 2069
highway4.com
Named after the mountain
highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to
the north, Highway 4 serves
up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does
excellent Son Tinh branded
rice wine.
JOIE DE VIVRE
WESTERN / FRENCH
292/10, Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066
facebook.com/joie.vn
PHO HOA

BAM SKATE SHOP
SKATEWEAR / STREET
0903 641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BOO
STREETWEAR
187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3
boo.vn
CRAFTS
& FURNITURE
REMIX DECO
INDOOR FURNITURE
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com
EAT
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN / BUFFET
3820 7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Latino ambiance with great
meat dishes and attractive,
spacious dcor. The churrasco, with 12 cuts of barbecued and cured meats
plus unlimited salad, is hand
carved at your table. Can
get busy.
PHO EATERY
260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3829 7943
SHRI
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower,
7274 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
A breezy terrace, indoor
bar and separate dining
room with sweeping views
over central Saigon make
up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought
out and romantic venue, with
excellent food.
SUSHI DINING AOI
SUSHI / SASHIMI
53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh
Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930
0039
sushidiningaoi.com
Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi,
sashimi, and other dishes
such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles
in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set
lunches. Probably the best
sushi in town.
TIB
HUE / VIETNAMESE
(08) 3829 7242
Tibrestaurant.com.vn
HCMC
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STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE
District
10
Tr
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District 1
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Tr
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99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1
Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908
453 338
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
HOSPITAL
EASTERN MEDICINE
Tel: (08) 3932 6579
Tr
n
M
ng
C
ch
Ha
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Sa
Ho
V
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DISTRICT 3
of medical assistance and

international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7
emergency care. Specialist
care is available in many
fields.
V
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T
Ng
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Th
Binh Thanh
SALONS & SPAS

VIET CHAY
VEGAN
Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
vietchay.vn
SAIGON BELLY DANCE
BELLY DANCE
No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do
Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832
9429
saigonbellydance.com
HAIRDRESSERS
MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY
YOGA
Tel: 0909 648193
michelle@michellelloyd.com
michellelloyd.com
American trained and licensed massage therapist
and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and
massage spaces in Districts
2 and 3. Private and group
yoga classes. Home visits
available.
YKC HAIR STUDIO
recognised educational
programmes, as well as life
skills and character building
for comprehensive development.
VAS
98 Cach Mang Thang Tam,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278
vas.edu.vn

(08) 3829 2791
MEDICAL & DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC
CITYSMART
7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationally-
dentists. A favourite of the

foreign residential community due to its modern and
effective treatments allied
with extremely reasonable
prices.

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222
starlightdental.net
Longestablished, modern
clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese
AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC
CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
A clinic provides world class
Chiropractic, Physiotherapy
and Foot Care. We specialize
in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee
pain, sports injuries, and all
types of foot problems. We
also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome
in children and adult.
INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL

CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
Globally renowned provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare
offers full dental services
in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide
high skilled dental service.
Orthodontics is also available.
INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC

MEDICAL CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
The worlds leading provider
AVEDA HERBAL SPA

Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
YKC SPA
(08) 3829 2791
ykcspa.com

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
complexs lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a
gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track
their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash
courts, pool, steam bath and
nutrition bar.
phu my hung
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE
& YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL
ng
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ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

(ABCIS)
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B
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INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS

206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel:
01654 058401 / 01629
546534
cezsaigon@gmail.com
Nguyn
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PANORMA FITNESS
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DISTRICT 7
PHU MY HUNG
BAKERIES
LAMOUR
BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn
SAVOURE
BAKERY
Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7
SIMRANS
BAKERY
SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908
828552
simrans.sg
BARS & CLUBS

BANANA BAR
EXPAT BAR
SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3282
A downstairs pool table, an
open, street side terrace and
specials on Tiger draft, this
fun but slightly run-down
joint is a local haunt for many
a resident of Saigon South.
PEACHES
CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
0999
Known as the Curry Pub,
this pleasant Saigon South
watering hole mixes the beer
with all things curry anything from Goan fish curries
to beef rendangs and more.
A popular local haunt.
RUBY SOHO
CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 3900
THE TAVERN
EXPAT & SPORTS BAR
R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang
Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
3900
The first bar established in
Saigon South, great food,
great music and loads of
laughs. Has regular live
music nights, theme nights
and a variety of live sports
events to please everybody.
Big screens and outdoor
seating add to the mix, with
BBQs available for parties
and events.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton
Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413
7355
bellavitafurniture.com
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110; S17 Sky
Garden, Nguyen Van Linh,
Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758
mekong-creations.org
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen
Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271
7758
mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6657
www.nhaxinh.com
EAT
BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON
INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and
bar on The Crescent with
great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned
international fare, all set in
a contemporary, spacious
environment.
CHAM CHARM
LUXURY INDOCHINA
2 Phan Van Chuong, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 9999
EL GAUCHO
Unit CR1-12, The Crescent,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304
MING DYNASTY
LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE

23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 5555
NATHALIES
THAI / VIETNAMESE
S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 0822
nathaliesrestaurant.com
SALT & PEPPER
PAN-ITALIAN
The Crescent, Phu My Hung,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 4848
SCOTT AND BINHS
INTERNATIONAL
15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948
901465
bizuhotel.com/main/pages/
scottbinhs.php
Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this
restaurant boasts a full bar,
ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus
on the creative use of local
ingredients.

CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My
Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277
The-crescent.com
Overlooking the Crescent
Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08)

5431 1833; Saigon South
Campus 2 (Foundation Stage
& Early Primary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833
theabcis.com
Rated as outstanding by
British government inspectors, academic results puts
ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide.
Provides education for two
to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.
CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
13C Phong Phu Commune,
Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412
3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam
serves local and foreign
students from Kindergarten
to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the
internationally recognised
Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting
academic excellence.
KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE

Crescent Residence 2, 107
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907
099 480
kindermusik-vietnam.com
LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL

KINDERGARTEN
102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052
lgkids.vn
RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL SAIGON
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7,
Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext
120/121/122
renaissance.edu.vn
Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum
based upon the British curriculum complemented by
the International Primary
Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a
family school with first-class
facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool,
mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and

drama rooms, science labs
and an all-weather pitch.
SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (SSIS)
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
Offers an American-style
education (SAT, IB and AP)
from elementary to highschool, emphasizing a multicultural student environment and a commitment to
wellrounded education at
all levels.
MEDICAL & DENTAL
AMERICAN EYE CENTER

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7
Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759
www.americaneyecentervn.
com
American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My
Hung, providing eye care
services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist
with 17 years of experience.
The American-standard
facility is equipped with
state of the art equipments
for the early detection and
treatment of important eye
diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic
eye disease treatments.
Cosmetic procedures such
as eyelid surgery and Botox
injections are also available.
FV HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 3333
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital
whose standard of health
care matches that found
anywhere, with 19 fulltime
French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing
expertise in 30 medical and
surgical areas, especially
maternity care.
HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER
EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,
Tel: 0906 684 969
simply email us on
well try our best
Tnh Yu Trong Chin Trn
B gp ng khi c hai cng chin u cng nhau

lc 18 tui. Ri ng b ly nhau ngay trn mt trn
in Bin Ph. Lc chin tranh, ng b ch cn
vi ba ngi bn lnh, mt vi bao thuc, gi ko
v mt trng pho tay, th l ci. Nhng th khc
c coi l xa x lm.
B gi 101 tui ri. ng b c th bn nhau
cho ti khi ng mt hai nm v trc. a con
trai ui ng b ra khi nh, thm ch n cn
nh c cha rut mnh. ng b mt ht mi th
phi kh khn kim c.
Th l ng b phi n xin v nht rc sng
qua ngy, n m th ng y. Ri ng mt sau
mt tun ho v st. Lc no b cng mang di nh
ca ng bn mnh. Gi b lm ci g, b cng nh
ti ng. Nh nhiu lm.
Con Ngi H Ni
C
bao gi bn t hi, ngi bn tri cy
rong hay b c ngi cong lng gc
ng ang ngh g? Nhm Humans of
Hanoi (tm dch l Con Ngi H Ni)
xut hin trn Facebook vi mong mun nm
bt nhng khonh khc thong qua ny. Ly cm
hng t phin bn cc k thnh cng ca Humans
of New York, nhm nhip nh gia ny miu t
cuc sng hng ngy ca ngi dn H Ni. Mi
nhip nh gia rong rui khp thnh ph tm

kim nhng khonh khc p, v trit l ca cuc
sng ca h l bt k ai cng c nhng ni nim
ring. Nhm dng nh tr thnh mt hin
tng mi, v vo thi im m Word s thng
ny c mang i in, trang Facebook ca nhm
t c gn 27000 lt yu thch.
Sau y l mt vi mu chuyn nho nh trong b
su tp ca h ( c tm lc so vi bn gc)
i Tnh Nhn Khc Mu Da
Humans of Hanoi: Vy ai ng li yu trc?

Ngi Nam: , ngi Wales chng ti khng
bao gi ni yu ai trc c. l truyn thng
y.
Ngi N: Ngi Vit Nam cng th m.
Nhng cm xc bn trong c hai chng ti u
bit mc d khng cn phi ni ra.
Hai Anh Em Sinh i
Humans of Hanoi: Cc em thch iu g nht?

Hai Anh Em Sinh i: i hc !
M Nui: Chng l anh em sinh i y.
Chng mc chng bnh tng ng gim tr nh,
mt a th li b thm h hm ch na. Ti cho
chng i hc tiu hc my ln ri nhng kh cho
chng qu nn hai a gi phi quay v trng
mu gio thi. B m th b chng khi thy
khng th nui ni. H sng di qu, b chng
th vn y. Cn ngi m th b i lu ri
bit thm v Humans of Hanoi, xin

gh facebook.com/humansofhanoi v
humansofhanoi.tumblr.com.
Mi ng k thnh vin xin gi qua
trang web Tumblr
Humans of Hanoi: iu g lm hai bn yu nhau?

Ngi N: Anh y mi ti i ung bia. Anh y
"" v ti trc.
Ngi Nam: Khng, c y "" v ti trc y
ch. C y cn mang thuc cho ti khi ti b m
ny.
Cho Thuyn v Kt Bn
Cho thuyn H Ty gi y khng ch l c quyn ca i tuyn
quc gia na. David Mann mc o phao vo v gp g Cu lc b
Hanoi Kayak.
Kayak. nh bi Julie Vola
ho thuyn ngay gia H Ty H Ni l

mt cm gic tht k l. Dng nc m
, thnh ph trng tht bnh yn v khi
, nhng ting ci xe vo mt bui sng
sm hi h ch cn l mt m thanh vng li t
xa. Bng chc, thnh ph by triu dn c thu
nh li l thnh ph ca mt vi ngi nh c
v nhng chic thuyn hai ngi cho.
Bui sng hm ti tham gia Cu lc b Kayak
l mt bui luyn tp vo Ch Nht ca h, nhit
d chu 25oC (v ang tng dn ln nhanh
chng). Khong hn mi ngi t tp ti cu
lc b cho thuyn trong , mt s thnh
vin thng xuyn tham gia, mt s khc l
nhng ngi mi v h nghe ni n cu lc b
ny qua li truyn ming t bn b.
Phn ln thnh vin l ngi Vit Nam
nhng cng ngy cng c nhiu ngi nc
ngoi n vi chng ti, Thy Bt ni anh l
ngi sng lp ra cu lc b ny cng vi Trung,
anh trai ca mnh.
Sau ln u tin cho thuyn Vnh H Long,
hai anh em thnh lp ra cu lc b khuyn
khch thm nhiu ngi H Ni tri nghim
b mn ny. Cu lc b hin gi c khong 20
thnh vin, v hng thng u c thnh vin
mi gia nhp. Cui cng, h hi vng rng cu
lc b s ln to thnh cc i v tham gia
vo cc gii ua trn c nc.
Thng Ba c nhm cho thuyn ti Hi

Phng v o Ct B, Thy ni tip. Chuyn
i tip theo ca chng ti s l o Quan Ln
Qung Ninh.
Cu lc b n nhn nhng tay cho thuyn
mi trnh , mi kinh nghim v trn thc
t, mc d nhiu thnh vin tham gia ch th
mt b mn mi, nhng sau , phn ln h
tr nn tm huyt vi b mn ny khng km g
anh, Thy ni.
Rt nhiu ngi nghin b mn ny ngay
ln u tin ti a h ra ngoi. V n rt vui v
cng rt d.
Tt nhin khng phi l nhng ngi c kinh
nghim hn khng c cho n y, v c
ti hai thnh vin ca cu lc b ginh c
gii ua cho thuyn ton quc ti Nng
thng trc.
Dng Nc Trng Xa
Ben Eichhorn, ngi tham gia vo cu lc b

bn thng trc, ni rng mc d H Ty chc
chn khng phi im tuyt vi nht Vit Nam
cho thuyn, nhng n chc chn l mt khi
u tt cho nhng ngi mi bt u.
Mt vi dng sui tuyt nht Vit Nam
nm tnh Lo Cai v c nhng on rt bng
phng v mt s on rt dc to ra dng chy
trng xa tri nghim kayak.
Nhng cho thuyn y cng th v ch,

anh ni thm. Mi ngi rt thn thin v nng
nhit, v th y cng l mt c hi tt giao
lu v kt bn.
Cu lc b rt ci m n ni m k c nhng
ngi ng xem mt cch t m cng c
php khoc chic o bi vo ri t mnh th
sc cho thuyn. Hng Nguyn, ngi ng
xem chng ti cho on ln ng Vn H
ni rng c y ngay lp tc b thuyt phc v
tham gia ch sau nm pht cho thuyn trn h.
Rt d v cng tht vui. Ti chc chn s
quay tr li y, c ni trong khi ci chic o
phao ra khi chic vy h mu en trng ca
mnh.
Nhm ny gp nhau vo mi sng Ch
Nht hng tun cho thuyn v thng bo
qua trang facebook ca nhm. Nhng ngi
khng phi thnh vin c th thu thuyn vi
gi 150.000VN cho gi u tin v thm
50.000VN cho mi gi tip theo. Mt la chn
khc l bn c th tr thnh thnh vin vi hi
ph l 500.000VN mt thng v c th s dng
khng gii hn thuyn kayak trong khong thi
gian t 6-8 gi sng v 5-6 gi chiu, by ngy
trong tun.
bit thm thng tin v cu lc b Hanoi
Kayak, gi email ti a ch kayakhanoi@gmail.
com hoc truy cp website: kayakhanoi.com
Loi Rau Qu y
V mt cuc sng tt p hn, Matt Bender tm hiu cng dng ca tri kh qua.
Hnh nh bi Kyle Phanroy
h qua, hay cn gi l mp ng, c

rt nhiu cng dng v cha ng mt
cu chuyn ngun gc xa xa ng
sau. i vi nhng ai quan tm n
lch s vn ha hay nhng ngi c hnh
xm ch Om trn ngi kh qua s k h
nghe v thi i Vedic (nn vn ha tin Hindu
trong thung lng Indus), n thm ch cn c
mt ci tn bng ting Phn l karavella. Vit
Nam, thnh thong cn c ngi c tri n
thnh kh qu.
Nhng dn du lch s li k mt cu chuyn
khc v n, nu lm mt chuyn i t ng
Trung Quc sang n , Chu Phi v ri vng
Ca-ri-b, bn s thy kh qua c s dng
khc nhau mi quc gia. Ngoi mui, kh qua
l nguyn liu thc phm c s dng rng
ri hn cc nguyn liu khc. Mc d cha cht
dinh dng khng ng k ngoi tr vitamin
NO ATTACHMENT
PEACE
HUMILITY
GAIN
LOSS
PRIDE
BITTERNESS
ATTACHMENT
Mads choice
C, kh qua t ho ng gp 40% thnh phn

trong cc liu thuc khuyn co nn dng hng
ngy n t lu c bit n nh mt loi
rau qu c cha cc thnh phn cha bnh, c
bit l gip tun hon mu v dit giun sn.
Cch nu kh qua yu thch ca ti l ct lt
n v xo vi du da, trng, hnh v c chua.
Kh qua ng vai tr gi tt c cc hng v
khc vi nhau vi mt v dn dn ngon ngon,
nhng n khng lm nh mt nhng mi
v khc. Ngay c trong canh kh qua, s tp
trung cng nm mn tht heo bm c nm
nm gia v nhi bn trong, ch khng phi
chnh bn thn loi rau qu y. iu ny c th
gii thch ti sao mc d kh qua c mt ti
cc ch, tri di t Nepal n Trinidad, nhng
khng c mn n kh qua c trng ca bt k
quc gia no li ch c mi kh qua khng thi.
Cay ng Nh L Hng V Ca Cuc Sng
Mang ngha tng trng, kh qua hm l mt

trong nhng mn c chun b cho Tt v
ng ca n i din cho nhng kh khn
ngho kh trong cuc sng m t nc
tri qua. N cn c ngha tng trng tch
cc, mt nhm ngh thut quc t c bit
n l Hi ng Kh Qua Quc Gia (NBMC)
cho rng, kh qua l loi rau qu dnh cho con
ngi v khng ng vt trn th gii n n.
Mc d ti khng chc iu ny c ng
100% khng, nhng khi ti lin lc vi mt
thnh vin ca h chi nhnh Tokyo
Hiroko Kikuchi, anh m bo vi ti rng,
cay ng l mt cm xc/ hng v m ch c
con ngi mi c th trn trng, v nghin
ngm v s cay ng c th lm cho chng
ta hiu thm v cng ng, nhn loi, ngi
Eds choice
khc v x hi. Anh ta cng khng nh rng,

NBMC chc chn khng phi mt tr a.
Trit l ca NBMC l kt hp cc li ch
dinh dng ca vic n kh qua vi tng
nhng ng cay au kh vn lun lm chng
ta cm thy mnh l con ngi, cng c th
l tnh cm u i nht dnh cho mt loi rau
qu m ti tng bit. Trit l khng h sn,
nhng ngt ngo, tuyt vi v mt cht g
hp l. Chim chc khng n kh qua v chng
cng chng bao gi nm trn ging, nhn
chm chm ci qut trn v suy ngh v nhng
a bn m chng b ri u . Chng
ta th n kh qua v chng ta th li lm tt c
nhng iu trn. Bn hiu ri y.
Lm Sao Bit Kh Qua n c Cha
Qu trnh pht trin ca kh qua s bt u t

nhng tri nh, mu xanh nht v ri to ln
ln, chuyn sang xanh sm. Kh qua cng ln,
cng xanh th cng ng, v v cng s cng
hn, do bn nn chn nhng tri c mu
xanh nht v c kch thc c bng con chut
hamster. Sau giai on , kh qua s chuyn
sang mu vng cam. V vy, nu bn nhn thy
vi vt vng, iu c ngha l kh qua gi
v s kh n, ngay c khi kch thc ca n c
cn nh i na.
Kh hu m p vi m cao ca Vit Nam
rt thch hp trng kh qua, v kh hu
ny cng lm cho ma ca n cng di hn
thng thng kh qua ch pht trin vo ma
kh nhng cng dao ng qua c ma ma,
tng t nh cc mt hng thng xuyn trong
siu th nh b, da leo v da li. iu c
ngha l bt c lc no bn thm kh qua, c ra
ch m mua thi. Matt Bender
MNG CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 5 TUI
Nhn k nim mng Craig Thomas Gallery c thnh lp 5 nm, phng

tranh s t chc trin lm ca 12 ngh s Vit Nam t 19/6 ko di cho
ti 18/7. Nhng tc phm c trng by s l tranh sn du, tng iu
khc v ngh thut sp t, v s gii thiu cc ngh s trn c nc, trong
c nhiu ngh s c nhng cuc trin lm solo trong nhng nm gn
y ti phng tranh.
Phng tranh Craig Thomas bt u hot ng t nm 2009 vi mc tiu
l thc y ngh thut a phng v trong nc. Gii thiu nhng ngh
s tr v c kinh nghim t khp c nc trong sut 5 nm qua, h
ng gp rt nhiu cho ngnh ngh thut phong ph hin ti khi chng ti
khng cn nhiu kh nng.
Craig Thomas Gallery nm 27i Trn Nht Dut, Q1. Trin lm k nim
mng 5 nm s c t chc t ngy 19/6 ko di ti 18/7. bit thm chi
tit, xen gh website cthomasgallery.com
MELTING POT LN 5
Tip ni truyn thng ngh thut, khiu v v m

nhc ca nhng chng trnh din ra trong hai ngy
Melting Pots ln trc, Melting Pot 5 s gii thiu
nhiu ngh nhn vi nhng sn phm ca h c
by bn, nhng nhc s biu din lm t thin
v xem nh l phn thng cho mnh. Chng
trnh ln ny s gip cho t chc Saigon Childrens
Charity, y l mt t chc gy qu gip tr em
Vit Nam bt hnh trong cuc sng c c hi c
n trng, c bit l m nhc v ngh thut. Si
Gn, ai cng c ti t nhiu.
Melting Pot 5 s din ra trong hai ngy 7 v 8
thng 6, ti Saigon Outcast, 188/1 Nguyn Vn
Hng, Q2. cp nht thng tin, xin hy gh
Facebook ca Saigon Outcast ti facebook.com/
saigonoucast (sic)
POCKEMON CREW N
VIT NAM
V o ca Pockemon Crew l s kt hp
gia nhng th loi rt khc bit l hip hop
v kch cm ca nhng nm 1930. N i
khi nh nhng, i khi mnh lit vi sc
mnh li cun nh k chuyn ca th loi
kch cm. c thnh lp v hot ng ti
Nh Ht Quc Gia Lyon t nm 2003,
nhng con ngi ny l s pha trn c bit
vi nhng c nhn kho lo c o to c
trng lp v nhng c nhn mang phong
cch ng ph v gi y, h s n Vit
Nam.
m Pockemon Crews Silence, We Turn!
s din ra Nh Ht Bn Thnh, 6 Mc
nh Chi, Q1 ngy 12/6 lc 20:00. Gi v
t 90,000 ng n 150,000 ng, sinh vin
c gim 50%. Sau , nhm Pockemon
Crew s din H Ni ti Nh Ht Tui Tr,
11 Ng Th Nhm, vo ngy 14/6 t 20:00.
V c bn ti LEspace, 24 Trng Tin vi
gi 120,000 ng, cc thnh vin ca LEspace
c gim gi.
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HANOI
The final say
n
o
s
e
t
o
Some N
LS
LIFE SKIL
Dara O Foghlu tries to get himself organised and buys himself

a whiteboard. But with organisation comes the word must,
and an even worse word, procrastination
can only remember three jokes at

any one time. If I manage to learn
a new joke, I will inevitably forget
one of the original three. Its
nerve-wracking to live with this idea
that youre constantly forgetting
something your girlfriends
birthday, a dentist appointment or
the name of the person you work
beside every day. And so after 30
years of coping with forgetfulness,
I finally admitted that I needed a
whiteboard.
In the stationery shop, once beyond
the stacks of pens, toppers, rubbers
and folders, I came to a high shelf
stocked with whiteboards of various
sizes. As I stood in the reflected glow
of those pure and perfect boards,
I imagined the organised life that
would surely follow once I owned
one. In my minds eye I saw the board
hanging on the rear wall of my office,
peppered with lists, reminders and
schedules. Above all else, schedules:
timetables to get things crossed off the
board. For a moment I considered how
productive I might become if I owned
two whiteboards. But no, I thought, it
is enough for any man to have one. To

own two seemed somehow decadent.
From the top shelf I took down
the largest whiteboard in stock
and walked to the counter. The
shop attendant had thick-rimmed
glasses and a tight black outfit to
accentuate her curves. She had that
anaemic complexion common to
most Vietnamese during winter, and
there was a guarded and suspicious
country look about her, like she
believed everyone in the city to be a
huckster, and everything to be false
gadgetry. And she was mostly right,
I was thinking to myself as I stared
at her curves: the dominance of style,
the decline of substance, the slow dripdrip of morality into the sewer. Who
could deny her these grievances? But
she wasnt to know how could she?
that what I was buying from her for
less than VND300,000 would singlehandedly turn my life around so I
could transcend all that. Once I owned
the whiteboard, I would systematically
work my way through my own lifes
tasks, and then move on to the ills of
society. In the end, I might even be
able to fix her problems.

She looked bored and angry at
the same time. Is that it? she said,
readjusting her glasses.
Yes, I said, this is everything.
The Life of a Whiteboard

Owner
So I cycled home in the gale force
wind carrying the 90cm x 60cm
whiteboard under my oxter like a sail,
and steered my bicycle with my other
hand. The rain was seeping into the
exposed sponge of my saddle and I
reminded myself that I must write
Buy new saddle on the whiteboard
as soon as I got home. Of course, I
forgot. When I got it home I put the
whiteboard on top of a low bookcase
in my office, wrote the words Buy
whiteboard on it and duly drew a line
through these words with a dry-wipe
marker I had bought for that exact
purpose. Then I sat in my office chair
admiring my new whiteboard, and
swivelled.
Strangely, some months after
owning the whiteboard, my life was
not quite turned around, whatever I
p
i
h
s
r
e
n
w
O
d
r
boa
White
Its nerve-wracking to live with this idea that youre constantly

forgetting something your girlfriends birthday, a dentist
appointment, or the name of the person you work beside every
day. And so after 30 years of coping with forgetfulness,
I finally admitted that I needed a whiteboard
supposed that to mean anyway. Sure,
I used it I mean, I wrote things
on it from time to time but once
something had been written on the
board I ignored it. And so, whereas
previously I used to lose track of the
things I was supposed to do, now I had
a comprehensive list of the things I was
meant to, but was not, doing.
Propped up against the back wall
and surrounded by books I had yet
to read, the board became covered in
terse bullet points as if barked by some
truculent overlord: make mnemonic
for list of chores; re-read lecture notes;
memorise new joke.
I grew to hate the board.
Every time I glanced at it I was
reminded of all the things I should
have done long ago. My tax returns
stayed on the board for at least three
months, to give an example. Filling out
my drivers licence application form
about four months. As for going to
the GP for a check-up pending. I
am prone to procrastination because I
cant stand following orders and being
obliged to give up my time to anyone.
Even if those orders come from myself.
In fact, rather than being surprised

by my ability to put things off, I was
surprised that I ever got anything
done. For instance, how did I manage
to bring myself around to buying a
whiteboard? I must have tricked myself
into it somehow.
The Return to Innocence

To assuage my guilt for not following
my list of things I needed to do, I
made exhaustive to do lists, ones
where no achievement was too small
to be recorded (e.g. go to the cinema,
clean shoes, read book). I did this so
that the damning order to carry out a
significant task became crowded out,
a small star lost among a nebula of
completed tasks.
Eventually the board became so full
of lists and reminders, small tasks and
big ones, that all the worlds problems
had become intermixed with my own. I
found things on the board that I didnt
even remember writing: The Problems
in Thailand causes and solutions; Get
wrapping paper and sustainable energy
source.
Everything was blocking itself, and
nothing could get done. I started filling

the board up. In a frenzy, I wrote every
task I could think of, both trivial and
momentous, in tiny letters along the
margins and in between the lines. I
filled the board until there was no
more room, and the voice to remind me
became a roaring cacophony of orders,
demands and suggestions all of it
beautifully incomprehensible.
In the final square of white space
I wrote the words, clean board, and
then I wiped the whole damn mess
clean. And there, once again, was
the whiteness shining through. The
world was returned to a calm garden
of innocence on a bright day. Every
colour of the spectrum met in perfect
equality on that clean whiteboard
propped up against the wall of my
office. Purity, serenity and the scope for
infinite potential; all this was suddenly
restored with the swipe of a rag.
Now, to avoid stockpiling my
problems, I only ever use it to write
jokes on. At this point I can remember
four good ones. Okay, so stop me if
youve already heard this one: A guy
walks into a bar
The final say
TREND
Hey, Miss Deezay

Eye-candy female DJs are making a name for themselves in Vietnam. But whats
really talking? Is it the music or is it something else? Words by Nick Ross
ow, weve got 25 mutual

friends, says my
colleague. Are you
friends with her?
With a name like PoPo Duong, Ive got to
be friends with her, I reply. We both laugh.
My oldest daughters nickname when she
was young was Po Po.
Were researching the latest trend
in Vietnamese DJs attractive female
turntablists who are said to be more about
looks and performance than the music they
play. There was once a time when DJs of
both sexes would hide behind their decks,
slap on a baseball cap, and let the music
or in the case of Vietnam, top shelf spirits
do the talking.
Now, thanks to antics-employing
international beatmeisters such as Steve Aoki
and Bob Sinclar and a growing throng of
attractive, provocatively dressed eye-candy
DJs, the tide has quite suddenly turned.

Music, yes. But performance as well. Think
of how Madonna, and then 25 years later,
Lady Gaga, transformed the concept of the
female performing artist. So the growing
quorum of female DJs is the latest to get
the makeover. In Vietnam, having a wellendowed hostess gamboling away behind a
mixing board, a MacBook Air and a couple
of decks has become a norm. Its not just the
music that the punters are after these days,
but the eye candy.
Some Like it Hot

Im now on PoPo Duongs Facebook
page. She plays at Fuse and is married to
XyXy Ngan, a female customer service
representative at Asiana Airlines. I look at
some of her posts, and men with foreign
names are jumping in with praise, trying
to woo PoPo into a response. They are
unanimously ignored.
Compared to some of her female
compadres overseas, PoPo has much to
be proud of. French-born Miss Kittin has
269,642 likes on Facebook. Maya Jane Coles,
presently rated as the worlds top female DJ,
weighs in with 286,473 clicks of admiration
while Nina Kraviz tops that with 382,307
likes. PoPo may be lagging behind with a
paltry 85,192 followers, but thats still not
bad considering that she is a local name and
yet to get a presence on the international
stage. Shes popular, at least Facebook
popular.
Equally popular, or so we are led to
believe, is the myriad of eye-candy DJs
gracing the digital ether of a Facebook group
called Big Titty Vietnamese DJs. Moderated
by the Nha Trang-based expat Craig
Anderson, among his favourite celebrity
DJs (or deezays, as theyre often written
in Vietnamese) are of course PoPo, as well

as DJ Money, DJ Tina Bee, DJ Pety who
is also featured like so many other peers
on barsaigon.net and DJ Myno, who has
also become an online celebrity. There are
two ongoing jokes here among both the
posters and commenters. One is about how
revealing some of these photos are DJ
Benny Nguyen receives particular attention
in this field. The other is about those who DJ
using their iPhones.
Quality Over Quantity

We decided to canvas the DJs of Vietnam
to get their own thoughts on this new
phenomenon. Are the provocative,
evocative, scantily clad eye-candy DJs a
good thing? Or are they just a flash in the
pan? And can they mix well and play decent
tunes? Here is what they said:
This is the entertainment industry and
in this industry, its a clich: what sells is
triple S: sex, scandal and stories. To me, its
inevitable. Its bound to happen, so Im not
bothered. The consumers are wiser now and
they have choices. If they choose to go hang
out at clubs with sexy DJs and bad music
(most not all) versus a normal looking DJ but
with good music, its up to them. They know
what they are getting. DJ Scrambled
Edge, dOSe
While its probably not too harmful it does

suggest that perhaps the music thats being
played comes second to the person playing
it. Thats not strictly limited to here. Look at
some of the DJs in the world of music today
people like Paris Hilton, for example.
While stage presence can help in engaging
people further with music, it shouldnt be
the main or only thing. DJ Will Henley,
Forward Slash
The current trend in clubs seems to be
more about pomp and ceremony than
the actual music. I think that these [eyecandy DJs] arent being employed for their
musical talent. It seems to take the point
of clubbing away if no ones gives a damn
about the actual tunes that are playing.
There is a fashion here of being seen
in places, selfies taken next to big brand
shops and so on. I think this all ties in with
that. People need to be seen in places with
these [eye-candy DJs] purely for a Facebook
update or a check-in. If a ridiculously
hot girl was incorporating some more
underground sounds in her sets to sway the
crowd away from the traditional Vinahouse
and EDM nonsense, then they could
potentially become tastemakers, which
traditionally is the whole point in DJing
to expose people to new music and show
people something interesting. Unfortunately
I doubt that will ever happen. DJ Blip

Blop, Synergy Music Production
Not all [eye-candy DJs] are sh_t. I know
one or two who can spin. Sure they
play trashy music, but thats what the
Vietnamese crowds are into: EDM and
VinaHouse. Diabolical stuff. It is, however,
played in a technically sound way, meaning
the beat-matching is on point and the mixes
excite and interest the audience. They also
mix in key, which requires a lot of time
spent at home working on mixes, finding
tunes that work together. This one DJ called
Tina Bee whos [pretty well-endowed],
obviously spends a lot of time working on
her sets. So, theres a grey area. Just because
they have big tits doesnt mean theyre
automatically crap. That said, most of these
[DJs], both male and female, are useless! But
whats new? DJ Hugh-G, Friday Fix
So what do you think? A flash in the
pan? Or something that is here to stay?
Good, bad or totally, erm, rad? Or maybe
you think were wrong for singling out
women in this way? Or do you think this
is a case of women taking advantage of
their appearance, and working out how to
capitalise on it?
Let us know by dropping a line to editor@
wordvietnam.com.
The last call

The founder of MANTA sailing school in Mui Ne,
Julia Shaw is at the forefront of developing sailing in
Vietnam. Photo by Kyle Phanroy
My love of sailing started
with my
grandmas boat when I was four, and grew
with the independence of sailing dinghies
when I was five, and teaching friends to sail
when I was six.
My grandmothers boat by the salt-
marshes at the end of the Lymington River

in the UK, was where we lived on long leave
from Sarawak, as her house was too small
for all of us. It still amazes me how well
people get on in the small confines of a boat.
Growing up in Sarawak introduced
me to my first memories of torrential rain

plus the smell, enormity and deep greenness
of the rainforest on the doorstep, which to
me was full of souls. I loved my Iban amah
and was glued to her hip, so others thought
Id never walk.
Being on the open sea is where my

heart and soul are. I love the way you can
balance the elements to go where you want
to go. Plus I love the way the oceans sound
different whichever coast you are on, and the
way water flows.
I created MANTA for marine conser-
vation reasons including an alternative to

overfishing and ideally to replace horrific sea
memories which many in Vietnam may have.
Fishermen learn sailing skills fast, because
of their existing ocean skills, and they dont
mind getting darker skin or covering up.
When Vietnam joined the International

Sailing Federation in 2012 it opened
the opportunity for fast track sail training development with a link to International Olympic
Committee (IOC) funding plus the opportunity
to compete with other countries and hold international events in Vietnam.
Marine conservation efforts are a drop The 2016 Asian Beach Games are
in the ocean until it is possible to close areas
to overfishing and pollution where marine
resources can grow and multiply to restock.
Vietnams best chance to be ahead of the pack,

by including kiteboarding for the first time in
the games.
MANTA soon developed into the first Boats come in thousands of different classes,
and only sailing school in Vietnam, set-up and
operating to international standards of sailing
and safety. Its run by sail-trained fishermen.
and can be a daunting and limiting factor for sailing development, given the cost of equipment,
shipping and import tax.
My goal with the school is to pass it

on to others who have a better business focus,
better marketing and promotional skills, while
continuing to train coaches across the country
at MANTA. We want to grow a broad base of
sailors, generating elite athletes and coaches,
to help holistic sustainability of all sail sports,
for all ages.
I hope that long-term it will be possible to
Vietnamese kitesurfers have

developed amazingly well. Although Vietnam
is 200 years behind leading Asian countries
in sailing, it is in the top three countries for
kiteboarding. Kiteboarding is the newest and
fastest growing sail sport worldwide.
promote Vietnams stunning coast with permits

to sail its length, developing tourism, like in
Croatia and elsewhere.
If I could be any marine animal I would

be a diatom, growing where there is light,
and helping fix more carbon than the worlds

tropical rainforests.
If my parents could see me now Id

thank them for the opportunities they gave me
with their introduction to sailing, my love for
life, being born in Sarawak and where that has
taken me.

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CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

010 / Blame Culture

052 / Road Runner

Dont blame the English

Drag racing with sand and style

056 / Lifes a Boat

088 / The World Cup Special

The World Cup from A to Z, and

014 / The Vegetable

024 / Charity of the Month

Saigons ARC are fighting the

106 / The New Workroom Four

2 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Cycling from Hanoi to Saigon is

Our cover story navigates boatings

012 / Humans of Hanoi

Better living through bitter melon

054 / Off the Main Drag

Events to look out for this month

Just like New Yorkers, Hanoians

A village of silk and colonial remains

Urban running with Huy Mai

011 / The Big Five

EAT & DRINK

French cuisine adapted to

109 / Street Snacker Hanoi

110 / Street Snacker Phan Rang

Renaissance is an International British School

138 / Coffee Cup

140 / Recalling Hanoi

Style at the waters edge

143 / Hanoi Promos

Skip the cable cars, thats cheating

122 / When in Sri Lanka...

Getting beyond the beaches, ruins and jungle

130 / Destination Zero

At the otherworldly Victoria Nui Sam Lodge

132 / Photography Tips

Etienne lets us in on his thought process

135 / Travel Promos

4 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam.com

168 / Top Eats

150 / The Therapist

190 / Hey, Miss Deezay

Eye-candy DJs are all the rage

192 / The Last Call

Julia Shaw is developing sailing in

I was about 10 years old when my

We once took a memorable ride on a

I was only about 16 and with a school

Were paddling out to the river village in

Were on the boat to Koh Tao in

CHUYN DU LCH & M THC

Chu trch nhim xut bn:

Thc hin lin kt xut bn:

In n 15.000 cun, kh 20.5 x 27cm

advantage of the water.

Halong Bay and the

CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

THIS MONTH'S COVER

HAVE YOUR SAY

The Music Issue

PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO

Saigon from Above