Word Vietnam July 2014 Final

CHUYN DU LCH, M THC
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VIETNAM EDITION
JULY 2014
contents
wordvietnam.com
JULY 2014
054
106
088
THE TALK
INSIDER
010 / The Summer Break
050 / Hanois Forgotten Museums
Business gets put on hold
Lesser-known tributes to the past
011 / The Big Five
054 / The Jungle Book
Events to look out for this month
BRIEFINGS
082 / Pest Control
012 / In the Ring
The animals we dont want to save
Taking the fight to Bangkok
022 / Songs, Surf and Whisky Slaps

Finding inspiration on vacation
024 / Charity of the Month

Allambie Orphanage makes lives
possible
Our cover story this month is for

the birds
ARTS
086 / Saving Face
The writing on the wall
088 / The Hong Kong Connection

The global art market by way of HK
LEISURE
092 / Taking the Bait
022
Taking stock of Saigons fishing

ponds
2 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com
096 / The Insiders Guide to

Thu Duc
A beautiful world on the HCMC
outskirts
100 / In Search of Meaning (on a

Mountain)
The physical imperative
EAT & DRINK

104 / Hanois Best Ice Cream
When Cornettos just wont cut it
106 / Oh, This is Ladies Night

Our long-awaited expos
112 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

Middle East, served better than
middling
113 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: pho ga tron
114 / Mystery Diner HCMC

The other May Restaurant
contents
124
192
132
138 / Coffee Cup
FASHION
116 / A Touch of Trouble
140 / Recalling Hanoi
Showing their true colours
143 / Hanoi Promos
122 / The Fashion Designer

Ha Truong is on the Vietnamese vanguard
TRAVEL
124 / In Thailand with Holga
HCMC
032 / Overscene
Bending light in the land of smiles
034 / Calendar
130 / Destination Zero

On the other side of the Saigon River
155 / HCMC City Guide
132 / Photography Tips

Etienne lets us in on his thought process
135 / Travel Promos

HANOI
042 / Overscene
044 / Calendar
136 / Hanoi City Guide
146 / Top Eats
164 / Coffee Cup

168 / Top Eats
170 / Non-Famous Places
174 / Food Promos

COLUMNS
148 / The Alchemist
150 / The Therapist

152 / Medical Buff
154 / Book Buff
158 / Business Buff
160 / Body and Temple
172 / A World of Good
182 / Student Eye
184 / Tieng Viet
FINAL SAY
188 / Breaking Up Bad
An open letter to women
190 / On Transience
And the band didnt play on
192 / The Last Call

Pam OReilly is helping save lives in Ho Tram
CONTRIBUTORS
This month we asked Word contributors, are
you a cat or dog person?
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
EDITORIAL
DAVID HARRIS
Staff Photographer
Cat Person
At home in South Africa I was
definitely a dog person. Then I found
a kitten in Phnom Penh, Mowgli, and
he is my constant companion in Hanoi.
He is also a Ninja and the King of Cool. So I would
say I am a cat person for now.
KAREN HEWELL
Online Editor
Cat Person
A year ago I was a dog person, and
ONLY a dog person. But thanks to my
girlfriend arriving home with a stray kitten
that looked like a feline Vladimir Putin, I have
become a cat person. Begrudgingly.
JULIE VOLA
Contributing Photographer
Cat Person
I am a cat lady. I have had cats all
my life, and cant live without one. At
home we currently have six kittens.
HOA LE
Staff Editor
Dog Person
Im definitely a dog. First, because I
was born in the year of the dog. Second,
I hate eating dog meat. And third, I think
I am quite loyal.
ED WEINBERG
Deputy Editor
Cat Person
To borrow a phrase from Marc Maron,
Im a cat guy. Ive had cats my whole
life, and I think I understand them. I think
theyre on my level. We have fun.
These are my favourite cat nicknames: Buddy
Boy, Sir Slam, The Town Crier, The Pilgrim,
Butterball, Panda Puss, Bumblebee
NICK ROSS
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
editor@wordvietnam.com
ED WEINBERG
Deputy Editor
ed@wordvietnam.com
MADS MONSEN
Creative Director
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HOA LE
Staff Editor
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KYLE PHANROY
Photo Editor
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KAREN HEWELL
News & Online Editor
karen@wordvietnam.com
FRANCIS XAVIER
Staff Reporter
francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com
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Staff Photographer
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Chief Editor
Dog Person
I grew up with an amazing cat. His
name was Pinchas, after the famous
violinist Pinchas Zukerman. He was
a ginger tom and a real fighter, but when he was
eight, he broke his pelvis. We had him spayed and
he was never the same. For me, no other cat will ever
match up to him. So now I like dogs so I dont have
to compare.
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In xong v np lu chiu Qy 3 nm 2014.
The prelude
out just how much more
there is to do to make a
difference to our future
here.
We learned about
the vulnerable and
miraculous populations
of primates here,
three of which make
The Worlds 25 Most
Endangered Primates
list. We studied World
Wildlife Fund reports,
which every few years
turned up dozens of
previously unclassified
species endemic to
Vietnam. We dug into
the comments sections
of posts about the
reappearance of the
saola and disappearance
of the Javan rhino,
gauging the wonder
and compassion of
those who live here in

the process. We learned
about the heroes of the
preservation movement,
who have given their
lives to protect those
who cant protect
themselves.
One of our editors
asked the question
which was on most
of our minds In
the future, will our
offspring be able to see
any of these beautiful
creatures in the wild?
What kind of future
are we creating for
ourselves and our
planets co-inhabitants?
Few things bring
such a visceral reaction
as the mistreatment
of animals. Theyre
humanity writ small
dependent on us, a
mirror of our kindness
and cruelty.
Were witnessing a
beautiful moment here
in Vietnam a moment
of new understanding,
a moment where so
much hangs in the
balance. In the middle
of dire predictions
about the future are
acts of heroism on
an individual level,
families taking in
hurt and abandoned
animals, former hunters
guarding the habitats
of those they once
stalked. And these acts
are paying off, in the
everyday miracles we
see every time we look
outside. Ed Weinberg,
Deputy Editor
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC
VIETNAM EDITION
JULY 2014
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hen we
were
approached
by our
partner charity Animal
Rescue and Care (ARC)
for help two months
ago, it got us thinking
about our values. Most
of us are animal lovers
at least one of us
actually put his familys
cats on a coat of arms
he had to put together
for some silly middle
school project. There
had to be more we
could do.
This past month, we
were a sponsor of ARCs
annual fundraiser. We
felt pretty good about
that. And then we
started digging into this
cover story and found
NH
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THIS MONTH'S COVER

Cover by DH Advertising
Photo by Glen Riley
HAVE YOUR SAY

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AT EDITOR@WORDVIETNAM.COM WERE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.
H2H Bike Ride
The Marguerite Garden Bay

Word would like to apologise for not
including an image of Marguerite
Garden Bay in last months article on
Halong Bay (Boating on the Bay, page 76).
The owners of the four-star vessel kindly
took us out for two days on the bay,
which enabled us to write this article.
While the boat was properly represented
in writing, it was missed out in images.
Below is an image of the Marguerite
Garden Bay. For more info on the cruiser,
go to tonkincruise.com.
Dear Editor,
We are writing to you as
six of the 16 riders who
completed the cycle from
Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City
in April of this year. First
we would like to thank you
for your article in the June
edition of Word Vietnam
(page 102). However, we
are disappointed with
the portrayal of the ride
and we feel we have
been misrepresented. It
didnt show what wed
accomplished, and for what
amazing cause.
We think the angle you
took, thighs, was a great
idea but it left out some
very important aspects of
what the ride is. The story
of the 16 of us who finished
the 2,100 kilometres got

skipped over, the sore
bums, the achey knees,
the numb, tingling fingers.
There was no mention
of the seven days where
we cycled well over 100
kilometres up mountains
with ascents of over 1,000
metres in a single day;
the 12-hour days riding
through midday heat,
pouring with sweat, only to
wake up and do it again the
next day.
Youve left us out of our
own story, a story which
started with our desire to
support five Vietnamese
childrens charities,
something which became
a mere footnote in your
article.
The ride has also been

portrayed in an oddly
negative light with
dangerous roads and
gruesome accidents, an
unappealing image for any
readers and prospective
future riders with no
previous knowledge of the
real purpose and cause
behind the ride.
16 of us rode bicycles
the length of the country.
Yes, our thighs changed,
but more than that it
was an experience that
changed us all in ways
that go far beyond our leg
measurements. Caitlin
Boylan, Luke Chesters, Helen
Mackenzie, Jacqueline Tan,
Christopher Thai, Daniel
Walsh
Photo by: Staffan Scherz
the talk
The Summer Break

S
Business gets put on hold
chools out and summer is in full swing. In

Saigon the rains are playing havoc with the
traffic and blocking up the drains. In Hanoi
the city is covered in sweat move and you
get wet.
Until 10 years ago, summers in Vietnam were no
different to other times of the year. Except for expats,
who used the warmer months to fly long-haul to their
native climes, most other people in this country stayed
in place. They didnt have the disposable income to
leave town or go on vacation business ambled on as
normal.
But fast forward to 2014 and for day-to-day commerce
in the countrys economic heartlands, summers see
everything slowing down. The rise in domestic tourism
has been a goldmine for the resorts along the Central
Vietnam coast or for the tourist spots in the north. As
the arrival of foreign tourists slows, so June, July and
early August sees them replaced by local travellers, all
searching for that annual break.
But go back to Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, and life is
quiet. So quiet in fact, that its a cause for concern.
We had almost no customers last night, says one
well-known, Saigon-based restaurateur, who himself is
using the lull to take a Mediterranean break in southern
Europe. And last night was a Friday. Today our terrace
is fully booked for a do. But its just so unpredictable
right now.
A Hanoi counterpart echoes his words. Weve
decreased our budget for the summer, he explains,
although were performing better than we thought. But
were still not busy.
And its not just restaurants that experience this

slowdown. Speak to business owners in other industries,
and they too will tell you how quiet it is.
Losing Momentum
That the major cities in Vietnam seem to shut down for

the summer is indicative of a problem experienced by
the wider business community. Tet means that February
is slow. March sees business pick up again, and by April
its gathering speed. But almost as soon as momentum
has returned, we hit summer half of June, July and
the start of August become write-offs.
With summer over the country goes back into full
gear. But as January approaches, once again there is a
lull. Business in Vietnam is crammed into a nine-month
period.
There is a lot of good to this. As agreed by the EU, life
shouldnt be all about work. In the case of Europe they
have created short working weeks workers now only
hit the 35-hour mark. In Vietnam, however, standard
working weeks are 48 hours, with many workers not
even being able to take off Saturdays. Fortunately this is
compensated for by the summer holidays and of course,
Tet, where workers get mandatory leave that doesnt
interfere with their vacation allowance.
But it does mean that business in Vietnam tends to
stop and start, stutter and pause for breath. And it does
mean that its difficult to gain momentum.
When times are good and the economy is booming,
losing three months a year to holiday periods is not an
issue. But when everyone is waiting for a pick-me-up,
for many its a disaster. Nick Ross
1.
the big five

RUN, HANOI, RUN!
The Spanish festival of San Fermin might
be a ten-day religious holiday that follows
time-honoured traditions of medieval kings
and plenty of spiritual ceremonies, but for
most of us, San Fermin means its time for
thrill-seekers the world over to gather for one
thing the running of the bulls.
And in an effort to bring a little bit of
Spanish tradition to the capital if, by
tradition, you mean death wish The
Hanoi Bicycle Collectives Spanish Tapas
Bar is bringing it to the streets of West Lake.
Hanois own running of the bulls kicks off
from Quang An Ward near Xuan Dieu on
Jul. 6 from 12 noon. Will there be real bulls?
Youll have to lace up your running shoes
and muster your courage to find out.
The Hanoi Bicycle Collectives Spanish Tapas
Bar, located at 44, Alley 31, Xuan Dieu, hosts
Hanois first San Fermin Running of the Bulls.
For more information on specific locations,
email hanoibicycle@gmail.com
2.
KILL THE FLOOR
On Jul. 5 and Jul. 6, world-class

dance will take over Savico
Megamall in Hanoi for Floor Killer,
the 4th National Recreational Dance
Championship. This year, the tournament
features dancers and crews from Malaysia,
Thailand, Singapore, Germany and
Vietnam, pitting amateurs and professionals
alike against each other in the metaphorical
ring, swapping punches for stunts. The
tournament will represent the fastest
growing of hip hop dance genres break,
hip hop, locking, popping, waacking and
house and might just be most epic lineup
of performances that Hanoi has ever seen.
Floor Killer comes to Savico Megamall,
7 Nguyen Van Linh, Long Bien, Hanoi on
Jul. 5 and Jul. 6 from 11am to 8.30pm. This
tournament is presented in collaboration with
Goethe Institut. For more information, email
thuha.dang@hanoi.goethe.org
4.
DJ VISA GIVES A
MASTERCLASS
DJ Visa is fast becoming one of the

key figures of the electronic scene in
Hong Kong, playing lyrical, light and
contagious dance sets, mashing up
stuff from unknown and emerging
artists and giving virgins of the nudisco genre a deep-end experience
at his promo agencys well-known
Clich-Parties. Its about time Ho Chi
Minh City got a taste of what else
there is to hear in Asia Jul. 5 at The
Observatory, we will.
DJ Visa comes to The Observatory
cnr. Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1,
HCMC on Jul. 5 at 10pm, entry
VND100,000. Support by Elia and Hibiya
Line. For a sneak preview, check clicherecords.com/artists/visa
3.
KOTOS FIRST FUNDRAISING

GALA
KOTO is mostly known for the good

work they do having trained over 600
at-risk and disadvantaged Vietnamese youths
in vocational, English and life skills, with a
100 percent job placement rate but the food
their not-for-profit restaurants dish out is also
pretty damn good. For the first fundraising
gala in their 15-year history, Taste the Stories,
theyre calling on all the goodwill theyve
generated to give attendees one of the best
meals of their lives.
US Masterchef 2012 and KOTO
Goodwill Ambassador 2014 Christine
Ha will join the proceedings working with
Executive Chef Marco Torre of Park Hyatt
Saigon and Sous Chef Phuong Doan of Pots
n Pans, a Hanoi social enterprise restaurant
managed by 2002 KOTO graduate Thao
Nguyen. Ha has an exceptional story, one
well-suited to KOTOs mission shes not
only the first blind contestant in the history of
US Masterchef, shes also its first winner, an
accomplished food blogger, magazine editor
and published author.
KOTOs Taste the Stories fundraiser gala will
be held at Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square,
Q1, HCMC, on Jul. 5, from 6pm to 10pm. There
will be auctions, raffles, stories, performances and
food. Tickets are VND3 million per person, and
are available at KOTO Saigon Restaurant, 151A
Ms Oanh
Hai Ba Trung, Q3, or byy contacting Ms.
om.au
Luu at oanh.luu@koto.com.au
5.
WERE ON A
BOAT!
Eclectic Aesthetic
and Optimist Clubs
collaboration is once
again plumbing
the depths of the
party universe, with
a daytime party on the good ship Elisa
Boat coming up Jul. 5 right before
the DJ Visa set at The Observatory.
Party regulars Hibiya Line, Dan Lo, Nic
Ford and a mysterious super-special
international guest will be on hand to put
some junk in your trunk, and the soundabsorbing wooden Zion of a space that
should drown out even the loudest of
thunderclaps should be your perfect
antidote to the rainy day blues.
The gangway to Elisa Boat at 5 Nguyen
Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC, just down the road
from California Fitness opens at 3pm on Jul.
5. Entry is VND100,000. For more info, check
facebook.com/eclecticaestheticsaigon
wordvietnam.com | July 2014 Word | 11
brief ings
In the Ring
Taking the ght to Bangkok
against her professional Thai opponent

Yodsontos already had 25 pro fights under
her belt she almost punched her way to
a knockout. Unfortunately it wasnt to be
and Ngan lost the bout on a close judges
decision.
Also representing Vietnam were two
expats, both whove only been training
with the Hanoi-based gym for six months.
Finnish-born Vili Heinio knocked out his
opponent, Saddam, with a knee to the chin,
while French-born Bertrand Jacquier in his
first pro fight eventually succumbed to Thai
kickboxing veteran, Loma. Loma already
had 50 fights to his name.
Team Vietfighter didnt leave the Thai
capital flying their winning colours at full
mast. But that wasnt the idea. This was a
learning experience and they came away as
a team, a team working together regardless
of race, religion, sex or nationality. As
Vietfighter founder Long Nguyen explains,
Thats what were all about. Working as a
team. Nick Ross
For more information on Vietfighter click on
vietfighter.com
Photos provided by Viet Fighter
fter rumbling with their

erstwhile counterparts in steamy
Saigon, last month Hanoi-based
Vietfighter decided to fly their
battle-hardened martial arts fighters to
barmy Bangkok.
Leading the ladies line was Ngan The
Dragon Nghiem who hit the Thai capital
with force to star in her first professional
kickboxing fight. Originally a receptionist
at Vietfighter, Ngan only took up the sport
three years ago. But in a short space of time
she has proven herself to be an adversary
worth reckoning with as evidenced by her
landslide victory over Saigonese challenger
Trinh The Dagger Thien in our April
feature Rumble in the Jungle.
Heres what reader JA had to say about
Ngan: She is everything a fighter should
be. Out of the ring she is kind, generous and
respectful. In the ring she is fierce, cunning and
is well... just plain strong. She is 90 pounds and
proves that size doesnt matter. I should know
I have been on the receiving end of some of
her strikes.
So tough is this Vietnamese tiger that
brief ings
Speedboat Barbecue
On the grounds of a holiday home in Ho Chi Minh Citys District 12,
a cooking tradition gets its start. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
irst you put in two tablespoons

of sugar, the same amount of fish
sauce, then one tablespoon of lime
juice, a good splash of water, salt
and chilli to taste. Its very sweet. I dont
see my tablemate putting in half the
recommended sugar until too late.
We take our freshly plated red snapper
and stab three symmetrical gills into each
side, then rub our concoction into it. We
let it absorb, and in a generous display of
idiot-proofing the chef whos been leading
us through our prep throws it on the grill.
When we cut into the fish 10 minutes later
its just about restaurant standard, sugar
guilt be damned.
The nine ladies in attendance and myself
have just wrapped up the pilot run of the
Vietnam Cookery Centers River Experience,
in partnership with Les Rives. Weve
gotten up too early on a Thursday (earlier
than people who work real jobs early!), taken
a speedboat shortcut up the Saigon River
to get to our destination, been offered
rice-baited fishing poles but left them
pondside, opting for the serenity of the

kidney-shaped pool instead.
At the end of all this we get certificates,
and after considerable razzing from
my speedier classmates, I feel like Ive
accomplished something.
New Setting, Classic Style

My idea to do it on the river is to have
the tourists experience the outdoor food of
the Vietnamese, says Caroline Reichardt,
managing director of the Cookery Center.
There are many dishes that are grilled or
marinated or cooked outside, and you see it a
lot when you go for street food. So I want to
show the tourists this type of food.
The boat thing came along with the fact
that were going very far, and if we go by car
it would be a chore.
Our expat-heavy group is a long way from
touristy, but among us are several veterans of
the Cookery Centers classes. One attendee
estimates that shes taken 12 visitors to try
the Centers courses over the years. From
the speedboat trip up the Saigon River to the
poolside relaxation at the country home of

a wealthy Vietnamese businessman, theres
something that appeals to our group as well.
For Vietnams first cooking school, the
experiential aspect is paramount. In addition
to the River Experience, theyve also partnered
with Vietnam Vespa Adventures for a cooking
jaunt out to Cu Chi.
And I have another reason for that,
Caroline says. Im the first cooking class to
have opened in Vietnam. After a few years
Ive been copied, and thats okay. There are
many other cooking classes. But I always
need to be one step ahead.
By the time they can do the same thing
like me, Ill be another step ahead.
Whats the next step? I ask.
Aha, Caroline says. Ill invite you
again. Ed Weinberg
Check out the Vietnam Cookery Center at
vietnamese-cooking-class-saigon.com for more info
on this trip or their Saigon-based cooking classes.
The River Experience costs VND2,319,000 per
person 30 percent less for kids aged four to 12
with an extension possible afterwards to Cu Chi
brief ings
We Are
Sailing
Photos provided by Sailing Club Nha Trang
This month Sailing Club

Nha Trang turns 20
wo years ago Peter Vidotto, the

co-founder of Sailing Club in Nha
Trang, received a government
award for his services to business.
In 1994 he opened the first beachside bar
in post-1975 Vietnam. It is an accolade that
Vidotto is proud of.
Anyone whos worked or had a business
that long in Vietnam [knows] the difficulties
associated with it, he says. [They] would
understand how wonderful it was to receive
this award.
Vidottos Vietnam adventure started in
1992 when he arrived as a backpacker. At the
time you received a six-month tourist visa
he spent a couple of months in Nha Trang
hanging out with other backpackers.
I was introduced to a government
company that had a caf on the beach. It
consisted of plastic chairs and tables only,
he recalls. When we applied for a license [to
make the place into something bigger], I was
told you couldnt call it a bar. Bars (in the
provinces) were still considered something
the American soldiers went to pre-1975.
That, he continues, is how the name
Sailing Club was born. At the time Vidotto
was only 26 and had no idea that 20 years
later he would still be in Vietnam.
We were the first place on the beach,
he continues. There were two government
cafs on the beach and a government gift
shop that were super basic. 95 percent of
registered companies were government. It
was a very different place then.
Changing Times
Being first in has certainly benefitted
Sailing Club, especially in regards to the
development that started in the late 1990s.
Just a handful of other projects have been
allowed to build directly on the beach,
and for a long time Sailing Club and then
later Louisiane Brewhouse were the only
bars and restaurants on the beachfront.
Yet similar to the experience of other
businessmen who set up in the 1990s, for
Vidotto the first decade running Sailing
Club was tough. But it was always fun and
we had some memorable times.
We operated 24/7, he continues, with
lots of sunrises and early morning swims.
Most of the old expat community from
Saigon would remember the early days.
It was that long ago that we still used
cassettes [to play] music.
The change started in 2002, a period
when with greater income at their disposal,
Vietnamese started to travel and there was
a boom in domestic tourism.

Overnight our client base became 50
percent locals. Since then its been a real
melting pot, where locals, tourists and
expats get together. It has a good vibe and
very rarely do we have trouble. Thats
saying something with 2,000-plus guests
during the weekends.
One of the longest running nightlife
venues in Vietnam, Sailing Club has
become a well-known port of call for people
heading to Nha Trang. It has also acted as a
model for other potential owners Vidotto
has made the impossible become possible.
He adds: I can definitely claim that Nha
Trang benefitted from Sailing Club. With our
involvement in Louisiane Brewhouse and
Sailing Club we like to think we are offering
something to locals and tourists alike.
Nick Ross
Sailing celebrates two decades on
Saturday Jul. 19. For more information go to
sailingclubnhatrang.com
brief ings
The Foodish Boy

ravel with a purpose. Whether its to cycle from
London to Melbourne or to volunteer with NGOs
around the world, for many the days of aimless
backpacking are no longer enough.
One such person whos ditched the flip-flops and
backpack in favour of an alternative travel experience
is Alex Nazaruk, a 26-year-old Yorkshireman from
England. An Oxford graduate, after waving goodbye
to his graduation gowns, he decided to pursue his love
of food and drink by joining Teapigs, an artisanal tea
company based in London. At the time they were just a
small company, says Alex, but over the years they have
grown to become one of the most recognised gourmet tea
brands in the UK.
But it was the travel bug mixed with a desire to
embark on an exploration of appetite that caused him
to adopt the nom de guerre, The Foodish Boy, and travel
around the world working in restaurants.
[I wasnt] content with simply being a food tourist or
eating in the best restaurants, he explains. I wanted to
immerse myself in food, communities and culture, and
learn something along the way. I guessed that the best
way to achieve this would be to work a range of food
jobs. What I had not anticipated was undertaking such an
ambitious project.
From Machu Picchu to Iceland

The ensuing trip took Alex to 23 countries around the
globe. With each placement generally lasting four to five
days allowing him enough time to have a meaningful
encounter with his work colleagues he tried to
experience as wide a range of jobs as possible.
Ive brewed sake in rural Japan, cooked a ninecourse taster menu in Iceland, and joined a Los Angeles
religious cult serving organic vegan food, he says. I've
distilled in the town of Tequila and cooked on the OrientExpress to Machu Picchu. And Ive even shadowed a
food photographer and stylist.
He adds: Id love to have worked longer, but I have

the added pressure of planning the next jobs and
writing about each experience something made
very tough when the chefs insist on taking you out
and getting you blind drunk! When you have such an
all-encompassing perspective on food, it makes me
appreciate just how hard people work to provide the
cuisine we take for granted.
The Vietnam Experience

His travels took Alex to Ho Chi Minh City, where he
found himself under the tutelage of Thai Tu Tho, the
French-Vietnamese restaurateur behind May Cloud.
The chefs at May are really one of the nicest teams I
had the pleasure of working with, says Alex.
Describing them as a family of chefs rather than a
group of colleagues, according to Alex they did their
utmost to make him feel like one of them despite the fact
he didnt know a word of Vietnamese.
Throughout my time in Vietnam I was always
astounded by the kindness and generosity of the
Vietnamese people, he adds. And I really fell in love
Vietnamese cuisine. The balance of flavours is unlike any
other cuisine Ive encountered sweet, bitter, sour, salty
and spice all interacting in perfect harmony. Then there is
a fantastic use of texture with little touches such as fried
garlic and peanuts to add crunch.
Back to Reality
Now at the end of his trip and back in London, Alex is
hoping to publish a book about the experience. But this
doesnt mean hes ditching his love of gastronomy in
favour of a career in literature.
I guess its back in the kitchen as a chef with the hope
to one day have a place of my own, he says. After what
Ive experienced this past year, Im not sure I could ever
leave the kitchen. Nick Ross
To read about Alexs travels go to foodishboy.com
Photos provided by Alex Nazaruk
World travel, a farfetched idea and a grumbling stomach
brief ings
THE DANISH AMBASSADOR, JOHN NIELSEN,

ON AN EARLY MORNING RUN IN HANOI.
PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA
The Marathon
The Vietnam Mountain Marathon returns to Sapa
t is unusual for a marathon to have the

support of the diplomatic community,
let alone to have a diplomat as one of
its main promoters and contenders,
but such is the case with the Vietnam
Mountain Marathon in Sapa.
Now in its third year and organised jointly
by Topas Ecolodge and the Danish Embassy
in Vietnam, the Sep. 20 race will have four
trail runs 10km, 21km, 42km and 70km
and an expected field of around 450 runners
from 40 different countries. What makes it
unique is the location.
I have completed seven marathons, most
of them in Europe, says John Nielsen, the
Danish ambassador to Vietnam and Laos.
But the Vietnam Mountain Marathon might
be among the most beautiful marathon races
in the world. It is one of the few places on
earth that you will experience running along
twisting, buffalo-beaten trails, across bamboo
bridges and through small mountain villages
with colourful dressed ethnic minorities in
full swing with this years harvesting.
A Different Challenge
Posted in Vietnam for four years his
previous diplomatic assignment was in La
Paz for Nielsen running is the perfect way
to counteract the stresses of a demanding job.
It is flexible and only [requires] a pair of
running shoes, he explains.
Usually running early mornings, three
to five times a week, at weekends Nielsen
stretches his daily 5km to 7km to as much as
15km. However, taking part in marathons is
a different task altogether.
Running a marathon is a challenging
and rewarding event as it requires a bit of
discipline preparing for it, Nielsen explains.
But setting a goal and completing it is
always a good feeling. There will be ups and
downs during the run and an inner voice will
sometimes tell you to slow down, however,
you have to ignore it and keep going.
Add to that mountains, a high level of

humidity and altitude, and suddenly the
challenge takes on a different meaning.
You will certainly not set a new personal
best, he says. But mountain marathons
make up for this in terms of inspiring
experiences and magnificent surroundings.
Promoting a Cause
One of the focuses of the event is to draw
attention to leading a healthy lifestyle.
With the support of Novo Nordisk and
the Vietnamese Association of Diabetes
and Endocrinology (VADE), Topas and the
Danish Embassy have used the marathon
as a sounding board to raise awareness of
diabetes in Vietnam.
Vietnam [has one of the] highest
growth rates of diabetes in the world, says
Nielsen. More and more young people
are being diagnosed. They are the future
of Vietnam and therefore it is key to guide
them in leading a healthier life. I hope
that by being involved in this race, we
can highlight improving access to medical
services and treatment for people with
diabetes in Vietnam.
The marathon will also be donating US$20
(VND420,000) of the entrance fee to Sapa
OChau, a non-profit charity organisation
helping ethnic minority youths return to
school and complete their basic education.
Despite the distraction of the good causes,
Nielsen is still very much focused on the
upcoming race.
It is fantastic, he says, and to many
runners, a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
With all those carrots being dangled,
how can you not get yourself involved?
Nick Ross
Vietnam Mountain Marathon 2014 will be
held on Sep. 20. Almost 400 runners have already
signed up for the race. Registration ends on Aug.
20 or when fully booked. For more info and to
sign up, visit vietnammountainmarathon.com
Cake Decoration Supplies Cake

C
Moulds and Pans C
Cocktail Materials and SSyrups
brief ings
Songs, Surf
and Whisky Slaps
On the trail of inspiration in Batangas, Philippines.

Photos by Florence Bacin, Carrie Binder and Melinh Rozen
oins thrown in the air cause a frenzy of

movement of old and young. The clink of metal
on the warm tile floor decays quickly. A Pinoy
priest digs his hand into a plastic bag full of
pesos. His teeth are gleaming white as he smiles and
watches the children slide across the tiles, grasping at
the falling coins. Elderly Filipino women rush as quick
as their bones will move them to get in on the youthful
experience. This is a traditional Filipino house blessing.
Its like the Chinese. The coins are meant to bring the
house riches, says new homeowner Frank Cardenas.
As the scene unfolds, Adrian OConnell, my bandmate
in James and the Van Der Beeks, slides sunglasses off
his head and over his eyes, hiding the early morning
hangover. We are here for a little bit of soul searching and
a whole lot of songwriting.
Adrian and I were invited to Batangas, Philippines
by erstwhile Word contributor Kathryn Cardenas. Our
journey began on the way from Manilas airport to
the southern island Luzon the largest island in the
Philippines. Crammed into a minivan, with guitar in tow,
the landscape seems constructed of endless ridges and
valleys. Stopping to stretch our legs and rub our eyes,
our early morning caf boasts an amazing view.
Harmonising
Looking out over Taal Volcano, perched atop a valley
wall, the chords of a song begin to solidify like the
cooling of a pyroclastic flow. Slapping his hands on his
thighs in rhythm with the strings, Adrian hums a melody,
changes it and then changes back searching for the

moment when vibration and voice harmonise. Over the
next week these strands become the raw material for our
new song. Like reclaimed driftwood, the sand, sea and
air mould our collaboration.
With the raw material I head north to the town of
San Juan where surf crests on the point, the bowl and
the rocks. My creative process churns like whitewash
in heavy swells its disorganised to say the least.
Searching for new accommodation I stumble across
artists hostel Flotsam and Jetsam. Housing a supportive
group of writers, musicians, actors and designers, the
hostel ebbs and flows with creative input.
On the third night of my stay I have a dream. I lay
face up in the ocean, waves rolling under me as an
autonomous surfboard prods me in the back. When
I wake the poking doesnt stop. Rolling over I find a
metallic-green crassa beetle, which had been nudging my
back as I slept.
This moment is a movement. When the sun rises I
paddle my surfboard into the glassy ocean. Sitting on my
peeling, sandy longboard I kick my legs in the water to
keep it stable. I look out into the empty horizon as I think
of melodies and music.
All the influences over my time in The Philippines act
as photographs in a storyboard. I depart San Juan with
a riff for our newly formed song Caldera, yet leave the
guitar on which it was written. If you ever stop by this
small surf town, look for the guitar with stickers on it.
Seamus Butler
READERSHIP
SURVEY
2014
Take our readership survey and win prizes.
All people who complete surveys will have
their name put into a hat. The draw will be
made by Cimigo and take place at the end of
August 2014. Any comments or questions,
please email Vy on vy@wordvietnam.com
be HEARD!
be REWARDED!
Tell us what you think
about Word by going to
word.cimigolive.com
pressfoto.com
Photos by Francis Xavier
brief ings
Charity of the Month: Allambie Orphanage
y full name is Suzanne Thi

Hien Hook, says Suzanne,
Allambies founder. And
Im an orphan from the
[American] War.
I dont know my real parents, she
continues. My real mother abandoned
me when I was a baby. I was found by a
policeman on the streets of Saigon and put
straight into the nearest orphanage.
Suzanne knows what shes dealing with, in
bringing up eight Vietnamese children given
up for adoption in the Ho Chi Minh City
home Allambie maintains. She knows its up
to her to provide a home for children whove
never known one.
In the orphanage she spent her first years
in, she was in the exact same position. Due to
her dark skin, it was thought that her father
was a black American soldier, which put her
at a disadvantage in wartime Vietnam. We
were always the last ones to get food, she
says, the last ones to get care We were left
to rot.
The whims of fate took Suzanne to the
UK at the age of three, where she had the
opportunity for a life that many in her
situation would never get. I was very lucky,
she says. An organisation from England
flew nurses out, and they specifically
looked after the mixed-race children in my
orphanage. When these nurses first met me,
I was lying in a cot with severe malnutrition,
bowed legs, a very big tummy. I didnt have
the energy to even lift my head off the pillow.
I was one of the lucky ones that got
adopted by an English family.
Suzanne still bears the scars of her
upbringing. Throughout her successful life in
the UK, its something shes never forgotten.
A Turning Point
After 34 years in the UK, she began to
feel she was ready for a change. With her
husbands blessing, she returned to the
country of her birth.
In 2006, I decided to come back to
Vietnam for the first time, just to see my
country, really. And to see if there was
anyone else who looked like me. So I got off
the plane expecting to see loads of people
with my skin tone, who looked like me
and I got off the plane and there was no one.
And I just fell in love with Vietnam.
Suzanne came back a year later, and
then again and again. She spent her time
volunteering at a badly-run orphanage and
found a deep connection with the kids there,
a connection shed been missing in her life.
And they found a connection with her.
One 15-year-old shed grown especially close
to couldnt bear to see her go after a 2009
visit.
[The girl] burst into tears and said, Well
Im just going to go kill myself. No one loves
me, no one cares about me, Im not going to
school, the woman in the orphanage beats
me. I dont have a future.
The thing is, I understood her, and I
understood her pain. Suzanne has to stop
here, the memory too painful. The flight to
England is 14 hours, and by the time I got
off the plane I had decided I was going to go
back to Vietnam.
These children dont need another
institute, she thought then, they need a
home. And thats where it started.
The Cure
I flew back four weeks later just to see her,
and tell her what I was doing. And I said to
her, Dont do anything stupid because Im

coming back for you.
It was December of 2010 when Allambie
first opened its doors. In the interim, she
left her husband and sold their house in
England, using the money to give Allambie
its start.
In 2009 me and my husband split up,
purely because of Vietnam, Suzanne says.
For me, coming back to Vietnam in 2006
opened up Pandoras Box. When youre an
orphan, and you go back to your country,
and you start to look into your past and find
out your history, you are opening Pandoras
Box.
And she couldnt leave again. Shed finally
found her place.
There are now eight children at Allambie
all going to school, some taking dance
classes, some taking photography lessons,
some practising Kung Fu. A network of
people has come together to make sure these
kids have all the opportunities they can
handle. The children themselves have come
together.
These kids that live at Allambie all now
regard each other as family, Suzanne says.
We eat every meal together. The kids call
her Mum.
The opportunities at Allambie extend
in more ways than just the material. What
Allambie does best is to instill a sense of
identity in its charges, a feeling of belonging.
When youre an orphan, Suzanne tells
from experience, all you want is to belong
somewhere, all you want is to feel love. And
when you dont have that, it makes your life
unbearable. Ed Weinberg
To sponsor a child, volunteer your time or to
donate, go to allambie.co.uk
brief ings
Photos by Julie Vola
The Anti-Caf
An innovative caf and events space opens in Hanoi
magine a caf, events space, kids

area, a place to hold classes, a place
to work, a cards room and a games
space that doesnt charge for tea, coffee
and snacks. Imagine a space that instead
charges VND2,000 per minute for usage
but provides games facilities, space usage,
tea, coffee and snacks free of charge.
Imagine an anti-caf.
The concept of an anti-caf is that its
very social, says Belarusian national, Tanya
Pisarchuk, the brains behind Time Club,
located in Hanois West Lake. It is about
uniting people and getting them off their
smartphones and Facebook pages. The idea
is that we provide a lot of things for group
entertainment its a very popular concept
in Eastern Europe.
Arriving in Hanoi with her family on
the back of a stint working for Carslberg
Belarus, Tanya withdrew all her savings

to create her dream. Set in a multi-storey
town house just behind The Sheraton, and
with views over West Lake, Time Club
provides group entertainment such as
board games, card games, XBOX, chalk
walls to express creativity and more. Tanya
is also planning creative master classes
and meet ups for people with narrow
and strange hobbies. Check out their
Facebook page and youll see that some
have already started.
In addition she is working on events like
public speaking, stand-up shows, open mic
nights and poetry. The idea, says Tanya, is
to target two groups of people kids and
families, and people coming as groups for
meet-ups.
But so unique is Time Club that she
knows getting people to understand what
shes doing will be a long process.

The concept itself is not difficult to
understand, she explains. But it takes
time for people to agree that they get value
for money. Trial [and error] will solve that
problem. The customers we got in the first
few weeks continued coming again and
again. But there is one problem we faced
sometimes people have come here not to
use our facilities but to drink beer and eat
our pancakes. So they are surprised when
we ask them to pay for the time. Weve
created a solution for those customers
we have now developed a separate food
and drinks menu and they can use the
terrace or the rooftop for breakfasts, lunch
or for a couple of beers with friends.
Give Time Club a visit by heading to House
6, Alley 1/62 Au Co, West Lake or by going to
facebook.com/timeclubhanoi
Cats of the Month: The Troubles
ou already know about tortitude, that

temperament unique to tortoiseshell-coloured
cats that makes them scamper around the
house at the slightest provocation (a can
being opened? the moon?), but eight-month-old sisters
Nike and Rocky arent typical torties. They keep each
other in check and egg each other on, so much so that
theyve earned the nickname The Troubles. Theyre
feisty little furballs with a pedigree in cuteness.
Around the Cat Ranch, they can be seen lolling their
heads off the top platform of the cat tree, prowling
through crinkly-paper tunnels and intently watching
bouncy balls bounce.
Rockys name belies a gentle nature both cats
love cuddles and neither scratches or bites. They are
extremely playful and curious. They jump high, chase
bouncy balls and play until exhaustion. But then again,
you know how torties are!
Theyre active, spayed, fully vaccinated and waiting
for you to take them home today. Contact arcpets@
gmail.com to make your date with kitty destiny.
Photo by Francis Xavier
Ho Chi minh city

what s on
STUDIO FIVES THREE-DAY DEAL
THE HO TRAM OCEAN RACE

Mays Le Fruit Triathlon got you used
to the idea of Ho Tram as a place not
just about relaxation, and now Ho Tram
Water Safety and Water Safety Vietnam
want to build on that momentum with
a charity swim this Aug. 10. Ho Tram
Beach Resort is the site of this ocean
swim, with competitions in 500m ocean
swimming and 500m beach running,
and a 1km beach swim and 1km beach
run. All proceeds go to charities training
the next generation of young swimmers
death by drowning is the biggest killer

of children in Vietnam and prizes from
The Grand Ho Tram Strip, California
Fitness, Boomarang and other sponsors
will be awarded to the top racers.
The Ho Tram Ocean Race is on Aug. 10
at 8am, at Ho Tram Beach Resort in Ho
Tram Village. Entry to the 500m swim/500m
run is VND750,000, entry to the 1km/1km
is VND950,000. For more info, go to
hotramoceanrace.weebly.com or see our article
on page 192
Studio Five is confident they know what

you need in your life. So confident are they
in their expert guidance, programmes in
20 different styles and their supportive
atmosphere that they want you to
experience it all for three days before
making any further commitment. After all,
the real commitment to make is to yourself,
and if you take them up on their offer then
youve already made it.
Find out more at studio5.vn
SUMMER RENAISSANCE
VinSpace has a couple options to enrich
your childs summer, mixing in art,
communication and general creativity in
an outstanding collage of awesomeness.
Currently ongoing is the Study English
through Art series, in which kids ages six
to 12 navigate artistic challenges while
practising their English, and of course
having fun. For those a bit younger (four
to 10 is the age range), theres Summer Art
Camp, just started on Jun. 23 and going
through the end of August. This concept
is an art intensive, designed to expose
students to different art techniques, help
them explore different mediums and tap
enough of their creativity to keep them from
painting on your walls when they get home.
There is also a non-child-safe option
this one involving wine and knives! The
July 17 Canvas & Wine workshop is focused
on using knife techniques to obtain fresh
and spontaneous works. At VinSpace
Garage (95 Pasteur, Q1) from 6.30pm to
9pm, youll learn how to use a knife in the
service of creation, not destruction.
For more info on any of VinSpaces July
courses, check vin-space.com
SUMMER AT SAN ART

Although its not the summer most of
us picture, most of us dont have the
imagination of the artists on display at
San Arts (3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh) Summer
Galleria group exhibition, running now
until Jul. 31. In it, the ideas of light, heat
and transformation of San Art co-founder
Dinh Q. Les Lotusland are surrounded by
the works of Le Hoang Bich Phuong, Ngoc
Nau, Nguyen Huu Tram Kha, Phan Quang,
Sandrine Llouquet, Tran Xuan Anh, and
Truong Cong Tung. Look forward to the
days when youll be bitching about the heat
once again.
Summer Galleria is on at San Art 3 Me
Linh, Binh Thanh until Jul. 31
PRIME MOVER
Anna-Selina Kager
Founder and lead shredder at Viet Shred
facebook.com/vietshred
An Austrian pro skater of the longboard persuasion, last year
Anna and co-founder Andre Tokarczyk set about spreading the
stoke through Vietnam under the banner of Viet Shred. With events
and clinics in both Saigon and Mui Ne, Viet Shred is ground zero
of this growing trend
Recent show I loved:

Definitely the Saigon Urban
Night 2014 [skateboards x
breakdance x hip hop, at Q4 on
May 24], which was organised
by my buddy Boris, and his
friend another Boris. Lets say
THE urban lifestyle and arts
festival in Saigon. Loved it!
Best night out last

month:
Started off with three big beers
for three German-speaking
expats and ended as a mad
pool party on our roof and
two people slipping down the
stairs, completely trashed.
Best meal from last

month:
Well, we regularly celebrate
Krsus Day on Sundays (a day
where you pretend to have
lots of money). On those days
we go to The Deck for fancy
brunch and Papagayo for the
best lunch in town.
Things I posted on
Facebook that got the
most likes:
My friends and my article on
the Visayan Longboard Trilogy
2014, one of the biggest downhill
skateboard events in Southeast
Asia, in the Philippines.
Funniest YouTube clip of

the month:
If I would have uploaded what
I just saw at Papagayo today

and sent it to all my friends via
Snapchat, that video would
definitely be the funniest.
I wish this band would

come to town:
This list would be too long, but
we can start with Alice Russell,
Erykah Badu, Bonobo and Chet
Faker.
How is the scene going?

The community is steadily
growing. We have some unique
personalities onboard who
are supporting the growth of
the skateboard scene here in
Vietnam. Im looking forward to
more and more skateboard and
especially longboard events in
this country this and next year.
Where I go when I go out

on my own:
Meditating and creating
peace and balance in my little
longboard world in front of
Saigon Outcast.
If my older-yet-still-cool
Mom came to town, I
would take her to:
Snap Caf to look for good
books in their little library.
And as we both call ourselves
part-time vegetarians, I would
definitely bring her to Hum,
my favourite veggie place in
town, with this special Buddhist
touch.
Ho Chi minh city

what s on
National Holidays
CALL FOR ROCKERS!!

The poster for Little Rose Shelters Hoa Hong Nho summer
fundraiser Saigon Rock Lottery features a punk rock Frankenstein and
a pretty unique concept. The idea is to throw a bunch of musicians
into a hat, draw out sensible bands from the blind-drawn results and
rock out for charity! Its so crazy it just might work.
Musicians are asked to sign up by Jul. 14 at anhduongsaigon.
org, to be drafted into bands on Jul. 19 leaving about six weeks
of practise time before the Aug. 28 charity showcase at Cargo (7
Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4). The following night, Scott & Binhs (15 Cao
Trieu Phat, Q7) will host an after party for the groups.
Little Rose Shelter is a District 7 shelter for young girls who have
been victims of sexual abuse, and this fundraiser is to help them build
a nice, fully-stocked library. Helping with the music side of things is
non-profit student group Anh Duong, designed to get young people
involved in charitable endeavours future leaders learning the value
and importance of helping those in need. Its pretty win-win-win, so
get involved and finally use your devils music for good.
Musicians can register online at anhduongsaigon.org until Jul. 14. For
the rest of us, the Saigon Rock Lottery show is at Cargo 7 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4 on Aug. 28. Or help out anytime by clicking directly on
littleroseshelter.wordpress.com
epending on where
youre from, July is
a time for fireworks,
feasts and airplane
flyovers. But now youre
in Vietnam, we can all get
together over a good buffet.
Check out the following
options, and keep Jul. 4
and Jul. 14 open and the
following days even opener.
Hotel Equatorial
hcm.equatorial.com
This Jul. 4, throw those partisan
politics out the window and
get your buffet on, with an
American-styled selection of
USDA-certified beef, Boston
lobster and more. Declare your
independence from the tyranny
of afternoon pig-outs from
6.30pm to 10pm at Chit Chat,
for a downright Walmartesque
VND840,000++ per person.
Sheraton Saigon
APOCALAUGHS NOW
If you thought that there was going to be let-up in the stand-up
comedy coming to Saigon, well there is. In July the organisers are
taking a breather. A well-deserved breather in fact. But on Tuesday
Aug. 19 the hiatus will be over and the gagsters are returning to
Cargo Bar, this time in the shape and comedic form of Nick Page
(UK) and Peter Berner (AUS).
A former estate agent and the presenter of BBC TV series Escape to
the Country, Nick Page got into comedy as the result of a bet hes
still not sure hes won. However, described alternately as the funniest
thing I've seen all year and a very fine man, this acclaimed comic
and Comedy Store regular has obviously got something right.
Peter Berner is also a bit of a TV hit, presenting the ABC series The
Einstein Factor from 2004 to 2009. To add to this he hosts You Have Been
Watching on The Comedy Channel. A regular on the Australian comedy
scene since the 1990s, so accomplished is he that hes even got a whole
Wikipedia page dedicated to himself. Now thats success, right?
Presented by Magners Irish Cider, doors for Apocalaughs Now will open
at Cargo Bar at 8pm on Aug. 19. The entrance surcharge is VND250,000
and for advance table bookings, please email saigoncomedynights@gmail.com.
Apocalaughs Now is organised in conjunction with Comedy Club Asia
sheratonsaigon.com
Saigon Caf doesnt judge.
Maybe you want fried
wontons on Jul. 4, maybe you
want roast turkey. Maybe you
want something with some

French words in the name,
maybe you want some French
fries. This Independence
Day theyve got it all, along
with a free flow of Chandon
sparkling wine, house
wine, coffee and tea, all for
VND1,010,000++. And theyve
got some things everyone can
agree on, like cherry crumble,
apple peanut butter cake and
buttermilk cookies.
Or maybe youre more
the type to go for foie gras,
brie and goat cheese on toast
with onion confit, salmon
fillet Parisienne and beef
bourguignon. If so, mark
down Bastille Day on Jul. 14,
coming in at VND995,000++
with a free flow of house
wine, coffee and tea. And
finish the affair in typical
French style with a dessert
overdose. Crepe flamb
with Grand Marnier and
raspberries, opera cake slices,
mocca eclairs, lemon tarts,
dark and white chocolate
mousse and crme brle
await you.
SAIGON CHAMBER MUSIC 2014

Although orchestral music is suffering a 50year downturn in most of the world, young
musicians in Vietnam are increasingly
turning to the soothing stir of the strings
and ivory. And this Aug. 2 to Aug. 9,
Saigon Chamber Music 2014 aims to keep
their attention, with a week of coaching,
instrument-specific workshops, music talks,
a faculty recital on Aug. 2 and a student
concert to cap it off on Aug. 8.
Participating in the classical event of
the year will be renowned Vietnameseby-way-of-UK pianist Tra Nguyen, UK
cellist Zo Martlew and concert master of
the Norwegian Radio Orchestra, violinist
Atle Sponberg. With 35 of the best young
musicians Vietnam has to offer learning
at their hands, Saigon Chamber Music 2014
promises to provide enough classical

entertainment to keep you going for the rest
of the year.
Events take place at the Ho Chi Minh
City Conservatory 112 Nguyen Du, Q1
from Aug. 2 to Aug. 9, with the faculty
concert on Aug. 2 and the student concert
on Aug. 8. For more info check facebook.com/
saigonchambermusic, or head to ticketbox.vn to
purchase tickets
MARKETING AND MEDIA FOR

PROS
Most of those marketing mixers are little
more than an excuse to get drinks with
interesting people, but M2s new concept is
a bit more hands-on. Created as a monthly
forum for people in advertising, digital,
marketing, media and technology to meet
industry experts and each other, M2s Jul. 2
event at Cargo will give those in the know a
chance to learn more.
Speaking at the event will be Esther
Nguyen, Founder and CEO of POPS
Worldwide, a leading digital media
company in Vietnam; John Sampson,
Executive Creative Director and Managing
Partner of DDB Vietnam, which has been
responsible for many of Vietnams most
successful advertising campaigns; and
Kosuke Sogo, CEO of MicroAd Vietnam
and COO of MicroAd SEA, offshoots
of MicroAd Japan a leading online
display ads platform provider. MCing
the proceedings will be Chris Walker, SEO
Consultant extraordinaire.
Each will presenter will be speaking
for 15 to 20 minutes and will then lead
a Q&A. This will all be followed by a
networking party.
The M2 Marketing and Media Network event
will be held on Jul. 2, 6pm to 9pm at Cargo, 7
Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4. Tickets to the event are
VND250,000 pre-registered, VND350,000 at
the door. For more info or to register go to edm.
itv-asia.com/enews/july/index.htm
SAN ART SESSION 6: OPEN CALL

San Arts studio/residency programme is
prepping its sixth iteration, and theyre
entertaining submissions until Aug. 5
from artists in the under-35 Southeast
Asian set. Fresh off Session 4 the group
exhibit from session artists Lai Dieu
Ha, Le Phi Long and Nguyen Van Du,
Mind, Flesh, Matter, is still on show at
San Art (3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh) until
VIDEO GAMES AT SCHOOL!
Jul. 31 this new session will give the

same number of artists an art studio
and living quarters for six months each,
plus a VND21 million stipend for the
production of artworks to be showcased
in May 2015.
To find out more, go to san-art.org/education/
how-to-apply-for-san-art-lab-session-6, or email
hello@san-art.org
Its Your World. Take Control.
ISHCMCs new summer camp workshop

doesnt cover the kind of things they
teach year-round. In their Innovation &
Technology workshop, Everest Education
aims to initiate attendees to the world
learning can eventually take you to of
industries like game design, robotics and
filmmaking. From Jul. 28 to Aug. 2, your
child can be part of excitement they spend
so much of their time transfixed by.
For registration or more info, call
ISHCMCs Admissions Office at (08) 3898
9100
Ho Chi minh city

Just In
TULIMULI
TuliMuli a name only a kid could love.
And thats the idea. In this whimsical
clothing line aimed at children aged two to
six, quirky and comfortable clothing mixes
with edginess, to supply tomorrows funk
explorers with a style theyll hopefully
keep their whole lives through.
Find TuliMuli at Studio Co, 4 Le Van Mien,
Q2, or on facebook.com/tulimuli
PUTTING IN WORK TO YOUR

YOGA
GUANABANA SMOOTHIES
The tide is turning in Ho Chi Minh City,
away from the khong duong, khong sua
places to a more natural, healthy taste. And
Guanabana Smoothies, with their careful
sourcing and emphasis on natural, fresh
ingredients, is a big part of this sea change.
Founder Luke Nguyen says, One of the
reasons I started is I became a dad, changed
my lifestyle and wanted to get more into
healthy living. Part of that is eating natural
foods, whole foods. The other part of it
thats important to me is eating clean foods.
So one of the things that we try to do is
make sure that the foods from the right
source, that the staff is well-trained in how
to make everything clean.
So thats pretty much what were trying
to provide for Saigon something thats
clean, healthy and delicious.
Guanabana Smoothies is on 23 Ly Tu Trong,
Q1, or at facebook.com/guanabanasmoothies
WORK Saigon (267/2 Dien Bien Phu,

Q3) continues its quest to get the best
doers in Saigon under one roof with
the launch of NU YOGA (they like
their all caps). Its a serious approach to
yoga, for those focused on method and
already familiar with yoga basics. Split
into intermediate and advanced
vinyasa, classes are limited to
four students per session,
stretching out in WORK
Saigons homey District 3
villa. First session is free
for new students.
To find out more, visit worksaigon.com/
yoga
THE CUBE BAR

The latest of Saigons hip restobars, with a
sleek industrial feel and a menu splashed
with Vietnamese basics gone international,
The Cube has made a graceful entrance
to Saigons bar scene. The menu changes
daily, and they offer free tapas with drink
purchases during their Spanish-style late
happy hour (6pm to 8pm). Spanish wine
cocktails like Sangria, Tinto de Verano and
Kalimotxo dot the menu, and theres a bit
of that good life emphasis with a regular
Latin dance night (Thursdays), DJs like Pe
Dro and artists like Yanneth Albornoz, Sith
Zam, Dan Nguyen and Khoa Le lending
their edgy imaginations to the walls and
the occasional seminar.
The Cube Bar is at 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
and on facebook.com/thecubesaigon
WINE VENDING MACHINE
Photos by Esther Nguyen
Who says vending machines have to be

cheap? Wine Embassys (13 Ngo Duc
Ke, Q1) new by-the-glass dispenser is
more interested in the technological
advantage such a format lends, serving
wine directly from bottles kept fresh by
inert gas preservation. And the offerings
arent commonplace either, with last
months selection featuring such top-notch
choices as Domaine de La Romanee Conti,
Echezeaux 2006 Grand, Chateau Latour
1983 and Chateau Margaux 2004.
The beauty of our wine by the glass is

also in its portion control, says Francois
Carteau, owner of Wine Embassy. You can
choose between 4cl to discover the wine,
9cl to reach sensation or 12.5cl to succumb
to the temptation. Whichever way you go
for, you will be contented with the bouquet
of the wine, with its complexity of aroma
through the ageing process, where the
wine character really comes out.
Try Wine Embassys new by-the-glass
system at 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1
FRIDAY NIGHT MULTITASKING
LEGENDARY JUICE
As if Lotte Legend Hotel didnt spoil
you for choice enough, theyve just
added a fresh juice bar to Atrium
Cafs breakfast buffet. Included in
the offerings are 12 kinds of fresh fruit
and vegetables, including papaya,
pineapple, pomelo, watermelon, apple,
strawberry, pepper, cucumber, carrot,
tomato, celery and bitter melon. With
an emphasis on health, they should help
you recover from the 12 Bloody Marys
youll also be drinking.
The Atrium Caf is in the Lotte Legend
Hotel, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Hair Bar is a salon with an interesting

concept no scissors in your stylists
hand, a drink in your hand. Its a
cut-less quick stop on your way to
somewhere else, with styles starting at
just VND120,000. French-Vietnamese
founder Sandrine Nguyen, also manager
of District 2s expert Concept Coiffure,
explained the concept to the Saigon Times:
So many Vietnamese girls have
fantastically beautiful long hair that is
begging to be styled. While working in
Vietnam I have seen that Vietnamese
women love taking care of their hair
without the need for a cut. They do,
however, want to look fabulous.
Hair Bar is at 68 Ngo Duc Ke, or on facebook.
com/hairbarvn
LA CRESPO
You dont have to look any further than
the pizza perverters operating chain
restaurants to see why pizza gets a bad
name amongst healthy types. At La
Crespo, the pizza is different cooked
in a wood-fired brick oven, almost
everything on the all important pie organic
and homemade. The cheese is homemade,
the Italian food authentic. The minds
behind La Crespo believe that health is
wealth but dont let that stand in the
way of having a satisfying meal.
La Crespo is at 63 Truong Dinh, Q3
THE BEST RESIDENTIAL DEVELOPMENT IN VIETNAM

La Valee de Dalats eight-villa project
hasnt been underway for long, but after
the first bucolic villa had been built the
judges at Asia Pacific Property Awards
had seen enough. Naming the citys only
private residential compound set next
to Bao Dai Palace II, on a beatific piney
slope the Best Residential Development
in Vietnam was a fait accompli, and giving
a five-star rating to the property was the
least they could do. Now that construction
on the second and third villas have started,
its plain to see how Asiatique Designs

master plan is coming to Dalat historysteeped fruition.
As Asiatique Design founder Aline Ho
says, Weve done other projects that had an
Indochine style to them, but with La Vallee
de Dalat, its just ... more French. It just goes
that extra step.
La Vallee de Dalat's five remaining villas for
sale range in size from 464sqm to 600sqm and
start at US$1.2 million. For more info, visit
valleedalat.com
overscene ho chi minh
kris kotcher
exhibition

VinGallery played host to cartoonistabout-town Kris Kotcher's Frenemy
freneticism
el gaucho opening
Photos by Nick Ross

The best steakhouse in town got a
little better on the night, as Saigon's
carnivores packed out its four floors
melting pot 5

Mara Calibara's first Melting Pot at the
helm went off without a hitch, as the
assembled artists and musicians sang
in the rain and celebrated Saigon's
weird wonderfulness
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.
arc fundraiser
Photos by Nick Ross

Last month's 'Charity of the Month'
called on the goodwill they've generated
for a funky "fund-rager"
Comedy Asia
Photos by Kyle Phanroy

Presented by Magners Irish Cider, the first in
a new series of comedy shows at Cargo Bar
brought in comics from around the region,
like William Childress from Myanmar and
Brian Tan from Kuala Lumpur
ginkgo concept
store turned 1
Photos provided by Ginkgo Concept Store

Gingko celebrated the milestone
alongside some of Linda Mai Phung's
wares, Fred Wissink's photography and,
of course, James and the Van Der Beeks
Hcmc
july 2014
M2 MARKETING MIXER
se this non-vacation
time to bone up on
your skills and what
the heck get some
drinks in while youre at it.
THE CUP FINALS
k, so your favourite
team most likely
wont be in it, and
the dates are more
like Jul. 13 and 14 here, but
these are the games that
history is made of.
JUL. 2 CARGO BAR
JUL. 12-13 EVERYWHERE
01 Tuesday
07 Monday
DOUBLE TROUBLE. Every Tue. Buy 1 drink get 1 free all night long @ Last
Call
SUMMER SALE 2014. Summer sale from 10% to 50% @ Mosaique

Decoration Saigon Centre. Until Jul. 25
02 wednesday
08 Tuesday
M2 MARKETING AND MEDIA NETWORK EVENT. 6pm @ Cargo. See

Whats On
EARLY BIRD SPECIAL. Everyday from 6 to 9pm buy 1 drink get 1 @ Last
Call
03 thursday
09 Wednesday
WORLD CUP SEMI-FINALS. 3am
04 friday
10 Thursday
AMERICAN INDEPENDENCE DAY.

SPECIAL AMERICAN-STYLED BEEF BUFFET. From 6.30pm to 9pm @ Chit
Chat, Hotel Equatorial
FRIDAY JAMESON JAM NIGHT. 8pm every Fri. @ Saigon Outcast
LIVE JAZZ. 8pm every Thu. @ La Fenetre Soleil

OPTIMIST CLUB. From 9pm every Thu. @ The Observatory
05 saturday
11 Friday
12 Saturday
THE ART OF ARTICHOKES. From Jul. 12 to 18, special artichoke menu with
chef Darren Watson @ Reflections, Caravelle Hotel
05 saturday
13Sunday
Sunday
13
KOTOS TASTE THE STORIES FUNDRAISER GALA. From 6pm to 10pm @

Park Hyatt Saigon (2 Lam Son, Q1). See Big 5
DJ VISA COMES TO THE OBSERVATORY. From 10pm @ The Observatory.
See Big 5
THE GANGWAY TO ELISA BOAT. From 3pm @ 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4.
See Big 5
06 sunday
WORLD CUP THIRD PLACE MATCH. 3am

SUNDAY-SIDE-UP. Sunday BBQ and music 3pm every Sun. @ Saigon
Outcast
To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordvietnam.com

by no later than July 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo
WINE AND KNIVES
inSpaces monthly
series Canvas & Wine
mixes up a class-like
atmosphere with
some good ol fashioned
canvas slashing, in their knife
techniques workshop.
SUMMER GALLERIA
an Arts summer
group exhibition
features some heavy
hitters in Vietnamese
contemporary art, trying their
hands at some light beach
crafting.
UNTIL JUL. 31 SAN ART
JUL. 17 VINSPACE GARAGE
14 monday
21 Monday
22 Tuesday
23 Wednesday
BASTILLE DAY.
BASTILLE DAY CELEBRATION WITH FRENCH STYLE PARTY. @ Saigon
Cafe, Sheraton Saigon. See Whats On
WORLD CUP FINAL MATCH. 2am
15 Tuesday
HAPPY HOUR. Tue. To Fri. from 6pm to 8pm, 50k for all cocktails and
mixers @ Saigon Outcast
16 Wednesday
17 Thursday
CANVAS&WINE: KNIFE TECHNIQUES. From 6.30pm @ VinSpace Garage.
See Whats On
LADIES PROMOTION. Every Thu. from 6 to 9pm, Ladies in groups of 3 get
a complimentary cocktail @ Last Call
18 Friday
19 Saturday
24 Thursday
A TALE OF TWO CITIES BY RICHIE FAWCETT. Until Aug. 31 @ Au Parc
25 Friday
26 saturday
27 sunday
28 monday
ISHCMCS SUMMER CAMP WORKSHOP: INNOVATION & TECHNOLOGY.
From Jul. 28 to Aug. 2
29 tuesday
30 wednesday
19 saturday
GROUP EXHIBITION: SUMMER GALLERIA. Runs until Jul. 31 @ San Art
20 Sunday
31 thursday
LAST DAY OF SAN ARTS GROUP EXHIBITION: MIND, FLESH, MATTER. @
San Art (3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh)
hanoi
what s on
THE CHOIR OF SUMMER
Hanois beloved folk songstress Le Cat
Trong Ly comes to Manzi Art Space on
Jul. 3 and Jul. 4, bringing with her both a
captivating voice and just the right amount
of star power to ring in the summer with
song. Performing her own original works
inspired by the Hanoi summer, the Danangborn singer-songwriter and folklore story
weaver is certainly not one to miss on stage.
Le Cat Trong Lys Choir of Summer concerts
take place on both Jul. 3 and Jul. 4, from 7.30pm
at Manzi Art Space, 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba
Dinh. Tickets are VND500,000 and include one
free drink of either water or white wine. Book
tickets by emailing manzihanoi@gmail.com
CRAFTERNOON DELIGHT
Spending the hot and humid Hanoi
summer indoors can be no fun for kids,
but sometimes, a little glue and glitter
can change all of that. Thats why QSI
International School of Hanoi is inviting
the little ones of Hanoi to spend their
afternoons getting crafty in all the best ways
and theyll supply the makings. Their
upcoming session from Aug. 4 to Aug. 8
includes daily afternoon workshops that,
for US$100 (VND21,000), include all crafting
supplies, drinks and fresh fruit. Kids aging
five to eight years old are welcome.
QSI International School of Hanois upcoming
session begins Aug. 4 and continues to Aug. 8.
Daily sessions are from 2.30pm to 4.30pm at 17,
Lane 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Registration is
required. Contact suzettemitchell2002@yahoo.
com for more information
IN CONVERSATION WITH GENIUS

CULTURE ON CANVAS
Manzi Art Space welcomes renowned
painter Ha Manh Thang before his solo
show at Thayibu Gallery in Bangkok from
Jul. 18. The artist might be known for his
focus on urban landscapes representing
iconic buildings in Vietnam, but his new
show explores new dimensions of his
creative genius with daring new themes
of memory, history and cultural heritage.
Catch the internationally exhibited artist
before he journeys to new pastures.
Manzi Art Space is located at 14 Phan Huy
Ich. Ha Manh Thangs preview show begins on
Jul. 18 and continues until Aug. 4. Entry is free
Manzi Art Space welcomes Fields Medal

award winning mathematician Ngo Bao
Chau for a special talk on Jul. 16, but not
for the reason you think. Although Dr.
Chau is recognized as one of the most
influential and brilliant mathematicians
in the world, he also leads a double life as
one of Vietnams most prolific bloggers. For
one night only, Manzi will invite Dr. Chau
to share with an audience his alter ego, all
through articles on his blog.
Manzi Art Space, located at 14 Phan Huy
Ich, welcomes Dr. Ngo Bao Chau on Jul. 16
at 7.30PM. The talk will be conducted in
Vietnamese only, and entrance is free. Preregister by emailing manzihanoi@gmail.com
before 5PM on Monday, Jul. 14
THE PAST TALKS AGAIN

Manzi Art Space continues with its newest monthly
talk series When the Past Talks on Jul. 20, this time
with new questions for Hanois inquiring minds. For
its second iteration, When The Past Talks asks the
question, are there spells and curses in Vietnam?
with a rousing commentary from local cultural
researcher Tran Quang Duc.
Manzi Art Space is located at 14 Phan Huy Ich, and
hosts The Past Talks 2 on Jul. 20 from 7.30PM. Entrance is
VND50,000, and the talk will be conducted in Vietnamese
only. Pre-register by emailing manzihanoi@gmail.com before
5PM on Jul. 17
OUT AND PROUD, IN WRITTEN

WORD
On the heels of Hanois ASEAN Pride
Festival, the city features the capitals LGBT
community in a new way with the stories
of the people themselves. Splitting Your Legs,
Waiting for Spring is an anthology of over
50 firsthand stories from LGBT individuals
living in Vietnam, and sheds light on a little
known corner of Hanoian culture through
tales of life, love and struggle in the face of
discrimination. The opening ceremony on
Jul. 4 from 2.30pm will feature the tell-all
books own authors, whose stories were
selected from 354 entries to the Six Colour
Rainbow contest early last year.
Splitting Your Legs, Waiting for Spring book
launch takes place on Jul. 4 from 2.30pm at the
Goethe Institute, 56 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc,
Ba Dinh
Photo by Julie Vola
PRIME MOVER
KEEPIN IT CLASSY
Manzi Art Space is mixing things up with Hanois newest
musical outfit, Hanoian Trio. Combining the talents of cellist Ha
Mien and composers Luu Hoang and Kien Cuong, the classical
threesome will perform pieces by Antonio Vivaldi, Johann
Sebastian Bach and William Henry Squire along with original
pieces by the Trios own composers in an intimate night of
instrumental mastery.
Manzi Art Space is located at 14 Phan Huy Ich. The Hanoian Trio
performs on Jul. 25 from 8PM. Entrance is VND200,000, and since
space is limited, pre-register at manzihanoi@gmail.com before 5PM to
get tickets
Nguyen Dang Quang

Maestro at Madake
facebook.com/madakehanoi
Nguyen Dang Quangs long-running determination to have his own
music and DJ bar started off with Hanoi Rock City before he moved
onto a different venture, Madake. A few years on and his creation on
Xuan Dieu remains one of the go-to venues in the capital.
Show Im really
excited about: Full Moon
I wish this band would

come to town: Arctic
at Madake, the night with a

new range of great cocktails
and music provided by the
best DJs in town.
Monkeys
How is the scene

going? Great, people are
Best night out last

month: 1990s music night
at Madake. It provided great
music that took me back to
my high school years; fantastic flashback!
Best meal from last

month: Deep-fried pork
The best secret in

town is: You can buy fresh
with garlic, cinnamon, chilli

and fresh herbs. A delicious
dish that was made by a
friend.
PIKNIC ELECTRONIK RETURNS

After three years of becoming Hanois favourite electronic
music purveyor and weekly outdoor event, Piknic Electronik
is back with new surprises on Sunday, Jul. 20. In its fourth year
in the countrys capital, Piknic Electronik is continuing with its
tradition of good music and good vibes, all to be enjoyed where
its meant to be in the summer sun. And unlike its sister events
in Montreal and Barcelona, Piknic Electronik Hanoi has two new
additions Piknic Acoustik Live sessions on the first Sunday of
each month, and a monthly mini-market.
The DJ line-up is yet to be posted, but with previous seasons
bringing in both local acts and international names in EDM to the
Piknic Electronik stage, this year promises yet another season of
the best in electronic.
Piknic Electronik returns to SoftWater Gardens, 49 Road 5, An
Duong, Tay Ho. For more information, keep an eye on the event page at
facebook.com/groups/piknicelectronik/events
looking for better night out

experiences. They want
venues to offer more. This
is what we are trying to do
we are trying to get more
people involved, by bringing new drinks and music to
the city.
prawns and clams from

fishermen around West Lake.
Just wait for them to catch a
new batch!
Thing I posted on
Facebook that got the
most likes: A photograph
Where I go when I go
out on my own: I like
of me taken in Hong Kong

during a Kendo tournament,
where I competed against a
team from the China Kendo
Federation. This was my
first time in an international
tournament.
to go for a relaxing walk

around West Lake and stop
at my favourite caf next to
the lake, drink a lotus tea,
listen to music and really
enjoy my time.
If my older-yet-stillFunniest Youtube clip of cool mum came to

the month: When animals town, I would take
eat fast food all day!
her to: Sofitel Plaza
Song I cant get out of
my head: Jubel by Klingande
Hanoi, the rooftop bar

where you can see the city
from above.
hanoi
what s on
CINEMA BUFF DATE NIGHT

Manzi Art Space continues their tradition
of monthly movie nights with their
regular experimental film series Chieu
Bong on Jul. 13, screening the awardwinning Germany film The Lives of
Others. The film, which follows the life of
a secret police agent in 1984 East Berlin,
was awarded an Oscar for Best Foreign
Film in 2006. And with Vietnamese
voice-over and English subtitles for the
WE GOT CHILLS
screening, perhaps itll win some audience
awards in Hanoi, as well.
Manzi Art Space continues their
experimental movie and video art screenings
with The Lives of Others on Sunday, Jul. 13
from 7.30PM. Manzi Art Space is located at 14
Phan Huy Ich. Tickets are VND70,000, with
discounts for students, and includes one free
drink. Pre-register before Jul. 11 by emailing
manzihanoi@gmail.com
Rockstore isnt so keen on the summer heat.

So, for one night only, theyre throwing
caution to the wind plus plenty of cash for
electricity bills. The air conditioning will be
cranked up to maximum power on Friday,
Jul. 18 for Rockstores Ice Party, the bars best
effort to fend off the summer heat wave. Bring
your coats, since things might get a little chilly
with ice-cold vodka coming from what
else? an ice luge track just for alcohol.
Rockstore is located at 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem
DEGUSTATION DINNER DOUBLE UP

THE SYMPHONY OF SUMMER
TAKE BACK THE STREETS
Established in 1959, Vietnams National

Symphony Orchestra has spent decades
establishing themselves as one of the finest
symphony orchestras in Southeast Asia.
Now, theyll return to the finest address
in the capital, the Hanoi Opera House,
for their summer performances for two
nights only, on Jul. 9 and 10. Including the
Prelude from Mozarts Opera Idomeneo,
the performance will highlight the most
stunning sounds in classical music in the
country, and certainly shouldnt be missed.
Vietnams National Symphony Orchestra
performs at the Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang
Tien, for two performances on Jul. 9 and 10
Inspired by the global cycling

phenomenon critical mass, Hanois own
monthly iteration comes to the citys
streets on the final Friday of July to take
back the streets, if only for one night.
Cheerfully coined Positive Mass,
Hanois own mass bike parade launches
from The Hanoi Bicycle Collective on
Jul. 25, alongside critical mass bike rides
in HCMC, Thai Nguyen and Son La.
Hanois Positive Mass bike parade launches
from the Hanoi Bicycle Collective, located at
29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho on Friday, Jul. 25.
For more information, visit their website at
thbc.vn
Pots n Pans and KOTO are teaming

up on Saturday, Jul. 12 for a night of
food and live music for a good cause.
In support of KOTO a non-profit
organization providing crucial vocational
training to disadvantaged youth in
Vietnam and their annual field trip
for students, the one-night degustation
dinner features an exclusive four-course
dinner paired with wine. Enjoy dinner
with an entire night of live music and
raffle prizes, all for a good cause.
KOTO Field Trip Fundraising Degustation
Dinner, hosted by Pots n Pans, kicks off on
Saturday, Jul. 12 from 6.30PM. The dinner
will take place at 57 Bui Thi Xuan, and all
proceeds will go toward KOTOs training
initiatives throughout the country. Get more
information by visiting potsnpans.vn
Photo by Diane Brsc
MORE MOTION FOR MADAKE

Back for its third installment,
MoTioN is returning to Madake
on Jul. 19, featuring the talents of
resident MoTioN artists Bad GraFX,
DJ Pandrava, DJ Maggie and DJ
Fergal. The artistic performance
combines live visuals and music,
challenging spectators concept of
space and sound with live-action
sculpture reacting to Berlin and UK
techno. So what do you get when
you team up the creative energies
of scenographers and musicians?
Apparently, something incredible
enough to keep on the social
calendar time and again.
MoTioN returns to Madake, 81 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho on Jul. 19
RINGING IN WEDDING SEASON
A MOVEABLE FEAST
Wedding season is upon Vietnam, and before

all of those white dresses are donned and rings
exchanged, Fortuna Hotel is helping soon-to-be
newlyweds get ready for their big days, with
Rhythm of Love Wedding Fair on Jul. 19 and
Jul. 20. Everything from bridal gowns, floral
design, venue decoration and photography will
be under one roof the ultimate one-stop shop
that is any amateur wedding planners dream.
Enjoy exclusive deals on dream wedding
packages and cash rebates when you book your
wedding banquet on the day.
Rhythm of Love Wedding Fair comes to Fortuna
Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, on Jul. 19 and Jul.
20. For more information, visit facebook.com/
fortunahotelweddingfair
Pots n Pans is teaming up with local travel

gurus Exotic Voyage Team to put a new spin
on weekend breakfast outings by putting it
on two wheels. Departing at 9AM for a two to
three hour leisurely cycle around the city, hungry
diners return from their journey to a full brunch
prepared by Pots n Pans, priced at VND200,000
per person. In case delicious food cant rouse
you out of bed, perhaps the promise of morning
exercise will.
Bike n Brunch, presented by Pots n Pans and
Exotic Voyage Team, kicks off on Saturday, Jul. 5
from 9AM. Participants are asked to meet at 8.45AM
at Pots n Pans, 57 Bui Thi Xuan. Registration is
essential put your name in by emailing joy@
exoticvoyages.com
ROCKSTORE IN THE RHYTHM

Rockstore welcomes back Thai fusion
songstress Nok ChitCha, for two nights in
the month of July. Combining the sounds of
rumba, samba, reggae, blues and rock-n-roll,
Nok ChitCha already took Hanoi by storm at
ASEAN Pride 2014. Now, shes holding down
her residency in the Old Quarter watering hole,
and plays two Saturday gigs on Jul. 12 and
again on Jul. 19.
Rockstore is located at 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem
hanoi
Just In
Photos by Jonathan Gharbi
R&R GOES TO THE WATERFRONT

GOLDMALT BREWERY JUMPS THE RIVER
Goldmalt Brewery has already established
itself as the premiere local microbrewery
chain in Hanoi, with several locations open
in the city and its surrounding areas. But
according to Goldmalt, theres just never
enough beer to go around. In response, they
have opened yet another location in the
capital, this time as the first microbrewery
establishment north of the Red River.
Located in a quieter corner of Long Bien,
this Goldmalt location is a perfect setting
for a beer before a walk through nearby
parks. And in step with other Goldmalt
locations, the interior pays homage to
European pub design and Goldmalts

own tradition of posters depicting blonde
German babes serving frothy pints of beer.
But alongside the brewerys decidedly
kitsch design, Goldmalt offers up a little
more tradition with a selection of the
worlds finest beers and classic Vietnamese
eats. Enjoy an ice-cold pint with French
fries, grilled ribs or stir-fried noodles for
a cheaper price tag than other Goldmalt
locations beer is only VND29,000 per
glass.
Goldmalts new Long Bien location is located
at 8 Phuc Dong, Long Bien
THE RETURN OF THE PALACE

Once located on Xuan Dieu with
vegetarian restaurant Dakshin located on
its top floor, after a hiatus India Palace has
once again returned to the Tay Ho area,
this time to a location bang in between
Warehouse and Dons.
Serving up a menu of mainly North
Indian staples including a range of curries
and of course a number of dishes out of
the tandoor oven, the multi-storey eatery

also has a good selection of cuisine for
vegetarians. And for those of you into going
for Indian over lunch, the vegetarian thali
weighs in at VND135,000 while meat options
cost between VND150,000 and VND170,000.
India Palace is at 10B Quang An, Tay
Ho, Hanoi, Tel: 01247 668668, email:
indiapalacehn@vnn.vn
Another of the new eating and dining spots

to emerge on the Tay Ho strip running from
Warehouse down past Dons, R&R has
now got itself a second location, this time
overlooking West Lake.
Serving up the same mix of service,
smiles, tasty comfort cuisine and of course
good beer as its sister location on Nghi
Tam, at the time of writing R&R had yet
to rebrand the Senso name sitting below
its awning. But that will surely come with
time.
The views, though, are there to stay. As,
we hope, are deals like VND100,000 drinkall-you-can Tiger beer from 4pm to 7pm.
R&R Waterfront is at 6 Quang An, Tay Ho,
Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3718 2724
THE REAL THING IN THE KITCHEN

From the culinary collaboration between Australian chef Tracey
Lister owner of Hanoi Cooking Centre and researcher and
writer Andreas Pohl comes wonderful things. And from a shared
love of Vietnamese people, history and above all food, these two
foodies take readers on a voyage through Vietnams vibrant culture
with their new cookbook, Real Vietnamese Cooking.
By finding creative ways to recreate local delicacies usually
confined to street food stalls right to their own kitchens, Real
Vietnamese Cooking is a perfect opportunity for lovers of Vietnamese
cuisine to cook up their own tasty selections right at home. The
cookbook also draws from Vietnams three culinary regions: the
hearty food of the North, the imperial cuisine of the Centre, and the
sweet and spicy combinations of the South. From simple dishes like
pho bo to creative takes on classics like caramel fish with galangal,
Real Vietnamese Cooking has a little something for every palette.
For further information on Real Vietnamese Cooking and where to get a
copy, email oliviafleetwood@hardiegrant.com.au or simply pop into Hanoi
Cooking Centre at 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh
HAPPY FAMILY WITH

LOCAL TREASURES
For sustainable shoppers in
Vietnam that are dedicated to
making their purchases count
toward the greater good,
theres good news on the
horizon. Hanoi-based social
enterprise Happy Family is
dedicated to not only offering
quality loungewear produced
right here in Vietnam, but also
to providing a brighter future
for women in the country.
Drawing on the
craftsmanship of talented local
women to create beautiful,
value-based luxury goods,
Happy Family operates under
a social enterprise framework
that provides empowerment
for the women they work with. Through partnerships with Vietnamese
and American NGOs, the hiring and training of disadvantaged
local women, and re-investment of profits toward affiliate charities,
purchases at Happy Family are some that we can all feel good about.
All loungewear at Happy Family is made with traditional garment
and textile designs, methods and materials, and come in a variety of
styles and sizes for any customer. Happy Family also operates under
the Fair Trade Federations principles, and counts every purchase as a
step toward greater empowerment for local women.
Although the website is still under construction for the time being, you can
find Happy Family online at happyfamilypjs.com
overscene hANOI
The Rafff le
Photos by Teresa Wealleans

R&R and social enterprise VIP Bikes
teamed up for a raffle to get you ruffled.
The winner won a fully equipped, preregistered Honda Vision. All proceeds
went to support VIP
Fright Night
Photos by Teresa Welleans

The zombies, ghouls and goblins
descended on Rockstore for a night
of DJ Blip-Blop influenced beats and
devilish fun
Time Club

A bar, caf, events space, games space
and kiddie area all in one, Time Club
opened in Tay Ho bringing with it a
unique concept coffee and tea are
free, all you do is pay for the time
spent there
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.
The Last Hurrah
Photos by David Harris

Indie pop soulsters Nerrys, Joss, Jez,
Will, Samantha and Nathan played
their last ever gig as the Say Oms to a
packed house at CAMA ATK
Impermanence

The BBQ Garden Westlake became host
to Impermanence, a theatre performance
questioning perception, life, loss and the
bountiful journey of creativity!
hanoi
july 2014
CHOIR OF SUMMER
anzi Art Space

welcomes Hanois
favourite folk
songstress Le Cat
Trong Ly to ring in summer
with what else? lovely
song.
SYMPHONY OF SUMMER
he nations own
symphony orchestra
is serenading the city
with the sweet sounds
of the classics.
JUL. 3-4 MANZI ART SPACE
01 Tuesday
JUL. 9-10 HANOI OPERA HOUSE
07 Monday
SUMMER HOLIDAY CRAFTERNOON. @ QSI, 2.30pm to 4.30pm. Runs until

Jul. 4
02 wednesday
03 thursday
OLD BOYS BLUES LIVE. @ Rockstore
LE CAT TRONG LY & THE CHOIR OF SUMMER. @ Manzi, 7.30pm
04 friday
BACK TO 80S . @ Rockstore
LAUNCH OF LGBT BOOK SPLITTING YOUR LEGS, WAITING FOR SPRING.
@ Goethe Institut, 2.30pm to 4.30pm
LE CAT TRONG LY & THE CHOIR OF SUMMER. @ Manzi, 7.30pm
05 saturday
BIKE N BRUNCH. @Pots n Pans, 8.45 am. A two hour cycle ride followed
by brunch
06 sunday
sunday
06
OPENING OF PHOTO EXHIBITION, THE UNRAVELERS: ADVENTURES

WITH MATHEMATICS. @ LEspace. Runs to the end of July
FLOOR KILLER, NATIONAL RECREATIONAL DANCE CHAMPIONSHIPS. @
LEspace, 8pm
08 Tuesday
EXHIBITION, THROUGH THE WINDOWS OF LIFE. @ Chula. Runs until Jul.
14
09 Wednesday
VIETNAM NATIONAL SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA CONCERT, INCLUDES
THE PRELUDE FROM THE OPERA, IDOMENEO. @ Hanoi Opera House.
Second performance on Jul. 10.
10 Thursday
11 Friday
PROGRESSIVE HOUSE #8. @ Rockstore
12 Saturday
KOTO FIELD TRIP FUNDRAISING DEGUSTATION DINNER. @ Pots n Pans,
6.30pm
SAN FERMIN SPANISH FESTIVAL. @ THBC, 12pm
OPENING OF BREEDING SEASON BY THAI NHAT MINH . @ Manzi
FLOOR KILLER, NATIONAL RECREATIONAL DANCE CHAMPIONSHIPS. @
Savico Megamall, Long Bien
13 Sunday
CHIEU BONG SCREENING THE LIVES OF OTHERS. @ Manzi, 7.30pm
To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordvietnam.com

by no later than July 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo
PIKNIC ELECTRONIK POSITIVE MASS

RETURNS
he citys favourite
outdoor electronic
weekly mini-fest is
back, and better than
ever.
ike shorts? Check.

Helmet? Check. The
global phenomenon
of critical mass takes
back the streets in Hanoi.
JUL. 20 SOFTWATER
14 monday
JUL. 25 HANOI CATHEDRAL
21 Monday
22 Tuesday
23 Wednesday
FRENCH BALL. @ Rockstore
24 Thursday
15 Tuesday
HOT CHICKS BAND. @ Rockstore
16 Wednesday
YOUR OBLIVION, A TALK BY PROFESSOR BAO CHAU . @ Manzi,
7.30pm. Register at manzihanoi@gmail.com
17 Thursday
18 Friday
ICE PARTY (WITH A VODKA LUGE). @ Rockstore
HA MANH THANG EXHIBITION PREVIEW. @ Manzi. Runs until Aug.4
19 Saturday
MOTION PERFORMANCE. @ Madake, all night
20
20 Sunday
Sunday
25 Friday
SUMMERTIME FUNK, SOUL AND DISCO. @ Madake, all night
SUMMER CLASSIC CONCERT BY THE HANOIAN TRIO. @ Manzi, 8pm.
Register at manzihanoi@gmail.com
POSITIVE MASS CYCLE RIDE. @ Hanoi Cathedral, 8pm
26 saturday
PINK BIKINI POOL PARTY. @ Pool and Dj Vu Bar, Sheraton Hanoi Hotel
I LOVE TECHNO WITH DJ SIZE-O. @ Rockstore
27 sunday
28 monday
29 tuesday
30 wednesday
OPENING OF SUMMER EXHIBITION BY SIMON REDINGTON. @ 21
North. Runs until October
THE START OF PIKNIC ELECTRONIC. @ Softwater, 5pm to 9pm, every

Sunday through to November
31 thursday
in the papers
THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS
HOANG SA ARCHIPELAGO
(VIETNAM)
OCEAN RESCUE
TRUONG SA ARCHIPELAGO
(VIETNAM)
Three Vietnamese fishing vessels are being

celebrated as unlikely heroes following
their rescue of a Malaysian barges 11
stranded sailors off of Vietnams Truong Sa
Archipelago late last month.
After particularly rough sea conditions,
the Malaysian barge broke down with 131
containers and 11 souls on board. Upon
finding the stranded barge at around 3pm,
two local Vietnamese fishing vessels pulled

up alongside the vessel and rescued nine of
the sailors.
After sending SOS signals and
reporting the rescue to Nha Trang Coastal
Information Station, one more Vietnamese
fishing vessel responded to the call and
rescued the two remaining stranded
sailors.
TAPPED OUT
A tracking app sold by a Hanoi-based
company has been found on some 14,000
Android devices in Vietnam. The app
which is advertised to be able to help
users track others Android phones, read
their SMS messages and contact books,
record phone calls and even turn on
features like the camera and GPS was
sold by Thanh Xuan tech firm Viet Hong
Company to customers bent on secretly
hacking others phones.
Unknown to customers, though, all
data gathered through the app is also
transferred to Viet Hong Companys
own servers, permanently at the
disposal of the companys employees.
Customers are then required to pay a
premium to access the stolen data on the
companys server.
Profit from sales of the app in
question is approximately VND1 billion
prior to intervention by the authorities.
DESTINATION UNKNOWN
VietJet Air became the laughing stock
of the Vietnamese aviation industry last
month after one of their aircraft landed at
the wrong airport. The misinformed Czech
pilot was promptly suspended after his
failure to follow a new air route to Dalat,
instead steering his vessel to Cam Ranh
airport in Nha Trang, at which the flight
mistakenly landed.
Cited as an unprecedented event in
Vietnamese aviation history, the mistaken
landing happened after a series of technical
issues with the original aircraft. The flight
crew originally assigned to a flight to Cam

Ranh was transferred to a flight to Dalat.
Consequently, the pilot was under the
impression that he was still meant to fly
to his original destination at the coastal
city of Cam Ranh. Only after informing
passengers that the mistaken landing was
due to bad weather did VietJet Air finally
admit to the error.
Following the hiccup, airport flight
planners are bearing the brunt of the
backlash, as they were responsible for
keeping the pilot informed.
in the papers
TWINKLING ACHIEVEMENT FOR DANANG

Danangs famed Rong (Dragon) Bridge
has been honoured by the International
Association of Lighting Designers (IALD)
for its 2014 award season.
The bridge is an iconic element over
the Han River, with lighting designed
by local architect Tran Van Thanh. Its
whimsical design and fiery glow is meant
to communicate Vietnams religious and
HACKERS STRIKE IN VIETNAM

Anonymous hackers have launched attacks
targeting the authorities, an Internet
security company reported last month.
Using a phishing email technique that
transfers malware via an emails attached
Microsoft Word document, the group
was able to access computers belonging
to the Ministry of Natural Resources and
Environment, despite the installation of
Bach Khoa Anti-Virus systems. Once a
computer is compromised, hackers can
easily steal data.
No further information regarding the
perpetrators or missing data has been
released.
cultural identity, and has become a favourite

destination for travellers to the city.
The 2014 awards included mostly the US
and Europe, with Asian entries only from
Vietnam, Japan and China.
Along with the IALD prize, the Rong
Bridge also made it to the final round of the
UKs major FX Design Awards last year, and
this years Lighting Design Awards.
VIETNAMESE ARCHITECT MAKES

HIS MARK
A Vietnamese architects stunning house
design has recently been recognised by a
renowned architecture award in England.
Entitled House of Trees, the creation of
architect Vo Trong Nghia in collaboration
with Japanese architects Masaaki Iwamoto
and Kosuke Nishijima is being hailed as a
feat of sustainable design and creativity.
The house, which features five massive
concrete boxes that serve as oversized pots
for towering trees, beat out over 200 other
global architectural marvels for the award.
Coming in at US$156,000 (VND3.28 billion),
the design was created to showcase how
green space can be utilised alongside highdensity accommodation an important
step in local architecture.
This particular design follows Nghias
long history of creating designs that bring
natural elements to buildings, including
Kontum Indochine Caf along the Dakbla
River in the Central Highlands.
Insider
HANOIS FORGOTTEN MUSEUMS // THE JUNGLE BOOK // PEST CONTROL // SAVING FACE // THE
HONG KONG CONNECTION // TAKING THE BAIT // THE INSIDERS GUIDE TO THU DUC // IN SEARCH
OF MEANING (ON A MOUNTAIN) // HANOIS BEST ICE CREAMI // OH, THIS IS LADIES NIGHT // MYSTERY
DINER HANOI // STREET SNACKER HANOI // MYSTERY DINER HCMC // A TOUCH OF TROUBLE // THE
FASHION DESIGNER // IN THAILAND WITH HOLGA // DESTINATION ZERO
PHOTO BY DAVID HARRIS
insider
HISTORY
Hanois
Forgotten Museums
Hanoi is littered with museums, we just never hear about
them all. Lucy Sexton visits three of the capitals lesserknown tributes to the past. Photos by Julie Vola
n Ly Thuong Kiet, sleepy morning

commuters easily overlook No.67
just another building dressed
in Hanois iconic yellow. For
tourists wandering Hang Bac in the Old
Quarter, a set of darkened wood doors
serve as nothing more than a pause to
an endless string of faceless storefronts.
The addresses, however, are hardly
afterthoughts. Indeed, they are modest
museums tucked into unremarkable
corners of the city. Hanoi is littered with
them.
The worlds best-known museums
are that way for some obvious reasons:
extensive collections, tastefully edited
exhibits, compelling content, buildings
steeped in historical sentiment, good

marketing. But what about museums that
no one knows about, the ones buried in
tombs of stone, ivy and exhaust fumes?
Do they have treasures, too? Do they
deserve a second thought, a second look? I
explored those questions over several days
using social media forums and wordof-mouth, and spending hours roaming
Hanois far right lane.
At 2pm on a stifling Friday afternoon,
I arrived at an empty No.67. A plaque
with the words, bao tang (museum),
encouraged entrance. I had been there a
few times before. Once I arrived during
an International Childrens Day party.
Another afternoon was spent Google
translating with Giang, the museum

secretary, seeking police approval. The
third time proved a charm.
Respect My Authority
Initially I thought that the Hanoi Police
Museum would reflect its obscure existence.
Peeking through pane glass doors on a
previous visit, I had seen just two halls of
picture frames. It surprised me that once
actually inside, the museum was much
larger than expected. Though not a word of
English is to be found, the museum finds
ways to communicate through images, wax
figurines, flashing lights, air machines and
uniformed mannequins. The well-kept rooms
chronologically detail the police and armys
historic challenges and the heroes, and a few
heroines, who rose to the occasion.
An entire wall is devoted to Nguyen Thi
Loi, a rare female spy martyred in 1950 when
she blew up the French DInville battleship
via a smuggled suitcase of explosives
disguised as opium. Its hard to say whats
more striking: celebrating the fatal event or

appreciating Frances once permissive opium
trade.
Built in 2008, the Police Museum houses
around 1,000 documents and photographs.
The haphazardly chosen photos feel like a
large family album: elders shaking hands
over historic treaties, police chiefs attempting
humour, officers newborn babies framed
next to crime scenes.
The museum was built to serve police
officers and for people to come and visit,
Giang told me. Its a place to teach officers
about the tradition of the department and
also to honour their achievements.
Though access requires police approval
we arranged this through our area manager
in our office they are open to anyone
genuinely interested. If some wall hangings
raise an eyebrow or two, remember, as
with all families, we tend to see past our
imperfections. Its not a moment to judge,
but rather a rare opportunity to glimpse
how the police really see themselves. As
Without any bravado,

Thanh talks about the
museums stages of
disrepair, cutting back
on museum visits and
sometimes working so
hard hed camp out in
the office
the supervised visit came to an end, I heard

echoes of ping-pong rallies and the squeak
of sneakers. Two retired officers and a
ping-pong table filled the museum foyer.
They quickly wrapped up, stuffed their
sweaty clothes in gym bags, and quietly
shook hands. It was a fitting end to the often
empty No.67.
A Silver Lining
After the odyssey to the police museum, I
wanted something more accessible. Hiding in
plain sight on an overly trafficked lane in the
Old Quarter, the Dinh Kim Ngan Jewellery
Communal Houses long name has quite
the tale behind it. Rather than play host
to a collection of artefacts or oil paintings,
the buildings story of birth, decline and
restoration is the main attraction.
Hanoi or Thang Long the on-and-off
capital of Vietnam has had many names.
But the city has always been defined by its
mercantile character. The Dinh (communal
house) emerged in the 15th century out of
mercantile necessity. Serving three functions
administrative, cultural and religious
the Dinh sought to centralise and therefore

foster the three components of a craft. The
Dinh Kim Ngan on Hang Bac traded silver
bullion, taught metallurgy and built a temple
for the community to worship their crafts
patron spirit. It is unclear when the building
was constructed, but through the years it has
served all three purposes and then some
education, nursing, military training. In 2009,
the building was crumbling under the weight
of its history and 25 occupying families.
With the help of the city of Toulouse, France
and Hanoi officials, the Dinh was carefully
restored so as to once again serve its goal of
fostering cultural and religious exchange.
On certain days the temple doors stay
open past sunset to lure in a straggler or two
with trance-inducing incense and baying
musical notes. In the inner chamber, raised
upon an altar like an offering to the shrine,
Master Bach Van and fellow musicians
sing poems of royal love and loss. Ca tru,
a traditional form of sung poetry laid over
three hauntingly minimalistic instruments,
is just one of the ways the communal house
reaches through the ages. One can even play
a few strings and chat with musicians after

the performance. I resisted leaving for as long
as I could, hesitant to rejoin modern Hang
Bac Street whose foreign consonants, horns,
and lights were unthinkable at the buildings
birth. Good museums are ones that transform
Dinh Kim Ngan is no exception.
Stuffed Animals
For another nostalgic step back in time, the
Hanoi University of Science delivers with
its 1904 French architecture. Located on the
upper floor, the Zoological Museum sits
above a dome of mosaic tiles flanked by
dizzying two-storey tall glass doors. Id go to
just watch students hang about windowsills
and daydream, but I continued up the set
of stairs with the elephant skeleton looking
on from above to find Vu Ngoc Thanh.
Museum curator, professor, conservationist,
primatologist and an international
foundation director, Thanhs a small but
industriously sturdy man whose charming
smile betrays an inexhaustible intelligence.
Like all dedicated scientists, Thanh is
meticulous, process-orientated and excited
by questions. He begins the tour in his office,

taking the trouble to unlock the old wooden
door even though the glass pane directly
above the knob is missing. The room looks
like its caught in the middle of a moment:
trays of tools, folded newspapers and
jars of glistening scales in formaldehyde.
Without any bravado, Thanh talks about the
museums stages of disrepair, cutting back
on museum visits and sometimes working
so hard hed camp out in the office. Hes a
realist so he doesnt beat about the bush, but
theres no soliciting here. When asked how
he balances his other work with running the
museum he quickly replies, Research comes
first. In other words, the animals come first.
The tour moves on at a leisurely pace.
The other rooms are stockpiled with
taxidermied bears, pickled reptiles and
birds gripping perches with prehistoric
claws. The specimens have either been
collected by Thanh himself or gifted to the
museum over the last century; they all have
interesting stories to tell. Id suggest asking
Thanh about the two large penguins gifted
by the Russians, or the lizard caught by the
Crown Prince of Japan who supposedly

spent time in Vietnam pursuing a hobby in
conservation research.
Thanh left me with some interesting
thoughts about educational, cultural and
law enforcement barriers to habitat and
species protection in Vietnam. Its one of the
worlds most biologically diverse countries,
strong environmental protections are on
the books and yet 20 percent of the worlds
critically endangered primate species are in
Vietnam. The museum and its loving steward
spoke volumes about the tension between
Vietnams past, present and future. Its a
museum that deserves repeated visits.
In my journey to find out just what these
hidden museums are all about I signed a new
lease on Hanoi. The feeling of trespassing
upon a memory lends a new aura to a
museums offerings. These museums dont
serve art, culture and history on a silver
platter, ready for easy consumption. They ask
visitors to engage with the temporal tensions
that exist within and beyond the museum
walls, in the soul of the nations capital, be it
Thang Long or Hanoi.
Information
D INH K IM N GAN
J EWELLERY C OMMUNAL H OUSE
42 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: 0913 544876
Open every day until 5pm. Free
admission. Ca tru performances are on
Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at 8pm.
The cost is VND200,000.
H ANOI Z OOLOGICAL M USEUM
No. 19 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem

Open by appointment only. Free
admission. Contact Mr. Vu Ngoc
Thanh. He can be reached by email on
vnthanh@fpt.vn or on 0913 544615.
H ANOI P OLICE M USEUM
67 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem

Open Tuesday, Wednesday and
Thursday, 8.30am to 11am and 1.30pm
to 4pm. Free admission. Ask for Ms.
Giang in person to request a visit.
Turnaround time should be just a day.
Cover Story
Rudyard Kipling wrote The Jungle Book 120 years ago, at a time
when the Indian subcontinent where hed been raised was undergoing climactic changes. A collection of moralistic fables,
culled from everything the author had ever heard or dreamed
about the Indian jungle, to Kipling the jungle was the source of
Indias rhythm, its great and generous beating heart.
In the intervening century, modern society encroached. The
generosity of the forest was increasingly viewed as a resource
to be exploited. The last Javan rhino disappeared from Indias
jungles before 1925 the same fate that befell Vietnams Javan
rhino in 2011.
As modern-day Vietnam experiences the same earthshaking
changes, its most vulnerable inhabitants are struggling to adapt.
With biodiversity outstanding enough to support nearly 12,000
animal species comes challenges like those detailed in a 2013
WWF report concluding that 10 percent of Vietnams wildlife
species are in danger of extinction.
On the cusp of an unknown fate, we take a look at the facts on
the ground those cute, creepy and crawly creatures that we
need to bring with us if the Vietnamese future is to hold the
same magic as its past.
Clockwise from top-left: Saola (WWF-Canon/David Hulse), Asian Elephant, Bearcat,
King Cobra (Kalyan Varma), Dugong, Edwards's Pheasant, Indochinese Tiger, Eurasian Jay
With nearly 12,000 species of fauna found domestically, Vietnam has long
been recognised as one the most biodiverse countries in the world one of the 16
most biodiverse countries, according to a 1992 assessment. Here are some of the
animals that make Vietnam wild, weird and above all, wonderful.
Words by Ed Weinberg
A Siamese crocodile and an adventurous frog
They sleep with their mouths open to release heat

Wikipedia, in reference to the Siamese crocodile
he name Siamese crocodile is a misnomer

there are as few as two of the critically
endangered species remaining in the Thai
wilds. 100 more remain in the wild in Vietnam,
remnants of the unique freshwater habitat that
the Mekong once incubated.
Although extensive damming of the upper
Mekong and other habitat incursions have
reduced the number of freshwater animals
floating around Vietnams swampy territory, their
diversity is still astounding. Of the 550 different
species of freshwater fish native to Vietnam, 80
are found nowhere else.

An even starker example of this changing
environment is found in the Yangtze giant
softshell turtle aka, the Red River giant
softshell turtle the largest freshwater turtle
in the world. Of the four remaining members
of this nearly extinct species, two swim in the
waters of northern Vietnam. The only mating
pair known to observers resides in Chinas
Suzhou Zoo, where theyve been matched
at some 80 years of age, the fate of their race
resting on their massive shells.
Mekong Giant Catfish

(International Rivers/Zeb Hogan)
The thin, nearly transparent fish has the sex organ

located underneath its chin on the male body, and at
the throat on the female one Thanh Nien News,
in reference to the penis-head fish
enis-head fish isnt just a cheeky name for this

unusually equipped fish its the laymans
translation of its scientific name, Phallostethus cuulong.
The Mekong Delta native is among 99 new Vietnamendemic species of flora and fauna uncovered in a
2012 to 2013 survey of the Greater Mekong Region.
For a country whose richly varied forests, marshes,
rivers and coral reefs support 10 percent of the worlds
species of mammals and birds, this wasnt anything
unexpected.
Discovered less than 100km from Ho Chi Minh City
by the same study was the large green Helens flying
frog, native to the threatened lowland forests of Binh
Thuan and Dong Nai provinces. If you want more

exoticism, head to central Vietnams largely unexplored
Langbian Plateau cloud forest, home to the vampire
flying frog, discovered in 2008 and so named for the
non-bloodsucking fangs of its tadpoles.
Dr. Jodi Rowley, who discovered the vampire frog
and four other endemic amphibians, described her
quest to Australian Geographic: I question my sanity in
the middle of the night during a monsoon downpour,
when Im covered in mud and leeches, being bitten
by malarial mosquitoes, and am four days walk from
civilisation all the while attempting to make frog
noises but it really makes you feel alive.
Right: Giant Muntjac (John Harrison)

Bottom: Saola (WWF-Canon/David Hulse)
The saola, one of the rarest and most threatened mammals on

the planet, has been photographed in Vietnam for the first time
in the 21st century WWF
his lede dates from Nov. 12 of last year, and its

breathless quality is the result of 15 long years of
searching. Dubbed the Asian Unicorn for its rareness and
two horns, the saola is an icon of the amazing biodiversity
to be found in the section of Annamite Mountains that run
from Hue and along the border with Laos.
Discovered in 1992 by a team comprised of government
specialists and WWF researchers, the saola was the
first large mammal new to science in over 50 years. Its
discovery paved the way for the identification of two
more previously unknown forest-dwellers, the
large-antlered muntjac and the Truong Son muntjac, in

1994 and 1997 respectively.
Just as the saolas first sighting proved a landmark
event, its rediscovery also marks an encouraging
achievement. Since 2011, forest guard patrols... have
removed more than 30,000 snares from this critical saola
habitat and destroyed more than 600 illegal hunters
camps, Dr. Van Ngoc Thinh, Central Annamites
Coordinator for WWF-Vietnam, said then. Confirmation
of the presence of the saola in this area is a testament to
the dedicated and tireless efforts of these forest guards.
Left: Javan Rhino (Alain Compost)

Bottom: Javan Rhino (Wikipedia Commons)
Another sad day for earth Cody Dieffenbach,

commenting on an extinction report
n 1999, the first known images of Vietnams

Javan rhino subspecies were recorded by a WWF
camera trap, proving that the rhino wasnt extinct in
mainland Asia as was once believed. 11 years later,
the last of these rhinos was hunted down in Cat Tien
National Park, and newly declared extinct.
The last Javan rhino in Vietnam has gone, Tran Thi
Minh Hien, WWF-Vietnams Country Director, said at
the time. Vietnam has lost part of its natural heritage.
If those comments were diplomatic, WWFs extinction
report was less so, citing insufficient protective measures

taken despite the millions of dollars of international
conservation funds poured into Cat Tien. The report
warned, Vietnam is on the verge of an extinction crisis
with many other species threatened by hunting and
habitat loss.
But there is hope for the 35 or so survivors of the species
left in Java. Once facing a similar crisis, Africas southern
white rhino population now numbers close to 20,000, and
is a model for species rehabilitation the world over.
Leopard Cats
(Nick Ross)
God in heaven! Its a tiger! Colonel John W. Ripley, USMC
uring the American War, tiger attacks supposedly

multiplied, or at least those caught in the jungle
night thought they did. One retired soldier said the
tigers must have thought it hubris for the warring
sides to be stalking each other in their jungle.
The jungle is also home to the clouded leopard, a
medium-sized cat said to form the evolutionary link
between small cats and big cats, perhaps descending
from the sabre-toothed cats with whom they share
a 100-degree jaw gape. Theyre more at home in the
trees than they are on the ground, adopting lives of
secrecy in Southeast Asias dense tropical forests. But in

Vietnam, their habitat has been steadily decreasing, by a
rate of 10 percent per year.
As few as 30 Indochinese tigers are thought to remain
in Vietnams wild. Last months incident in Nghe An, in
which two bound, anaesthetised tigers were thrown from
the back of an unmarked truck, only serves to underscore
the severity of their plight.
But in February, quintuplets were born to an Indochinese
tigress at the Saigon Zoo and Botanical Gardens, the first
delivery at the zoo in 20 years. Hope springs eternal.
Left: Tonkin Snub-Nosed Monkey

(Flora & Fauna International)
Top Right: Cao Vit Gibbon

(Flora & Fauna International/Zhao Chao)
Bottom Right: Red-Shanked Douc Langur
When I saw the Tonkin snub-nosed monkeys, I was overjoyed

Biologist Le Khac Quyet
hough Tonkin snub-nosed monkeys are the

smallest of the four snub-nosed monkey types,
they are also Vietnams largest primate species
not that youll ever see them. According to Flora &
Fauna Internationals December 2013 estimate, there
are fewer than 250 in the world, with nearly half of
that number residing in the Khau Ca Species and
Habitat Conservation Area in Ha Giang Province.
Surprisingly, those were encouraging returns the
domestic population was estimated at 22 in 2005.
Similarly scarce, Delacours langurs are believed to
also number around 250, but entirely endemic to the
country they are found only in an area of
around 6,000sqkm in northern Vietnam. The largest

population is in Van Long Nature Reserve in Ninh
Binh, where the primate makes its home at elevations
up to 328 metres, in terrain dominated by limestone
karst.
Yet another primate landing on The Worlds 25 Most
Endangered Primates list is the Cao Vit gibbon, the
second-rarest ape in the world after its closest relative
the Hainan gibbon. It lives in one patch of forest on
the China-Vietnam border, and there only remain
about 130 invidviduals. Cross-border efforts have
brought that 2012 population estimate up 17 percent
from the number surveyed in 2007.
Dugong
Unusual animals continuously discovered in Vietnam

VietNamNet Bridge headline
fish with a snake body and crocodile head, an

oyster with 16 pearls, a snakehead weighing 6kg,
a vegetarian pig that can guard a house like a dog,
starts the article so titled, and they dont even mention
the dyed blue or pink chickens youll occasionally find
sold streetside.
A Korea-originating video called Vietnam Monster
circulated last year, showing the hoisting of some
pelican-jawed whale onto a truck while hundreds
watched, supposedly on Cat Ba Island. Monster
worm? some speculated. Loch Ness?
But all of these wild headlines took the shine away
from the magical creatures Vietnams had all along.

Take the dugong aka, the lady of the sea if youre
being nice, sea cow if youre being honest. The only
extant relative of the manatee, the dugong is considered
to be source material for mermaids, not very fit ones at
that.
The pangolin is a type of scaly anteater, whose
name comes from the Malay word pengguling, meaning
something that rolls up. The pangolins scales are
made of keratin, just like human fingernails and rhino
horns, and they curl up when threatened, even taking
their babies inside with them.
White-Crested Laughingthrush
I flap, therefore I am Rex W. Huppke, writing on Flappy

Bird for the Chicago Tribune
t all comes back to Jean Delacour. The wealthy

young ornithologist funded and led a total of seven
expeditions to French Indochina between 1923 and
1939, which resulted in the discovery of over 140
new bird species, 230 species new to Indochina and
a collection in excess of 30,000 specimens. Though
some came before him, Vietnams wealth in bird
species needed the systemised, large-scale approach
he brought with him.
The most noteworthy of these species was known as
far back as 1896, when Alphonse Milne-Edwards saw
his pheasant. Having since suffered habitat loss from
wartime defoliation and deforestation, Edwards
pheasant is currently listed as a critically endangered

species, with 50 to 249 believed to be running about in
the damp mountain forests of Central Vietnam.
On the list of the 12 true endemics, laughingthrushes
and wren babblers make up six of the species. In
number, theyre fairly widespread, and the Dalat Plateau
is a popular choice of habitat.
And now the inevitable question were any of
these birds the inspiration for Flappy Bird? According to
Animalist News best guess, no, theyre not. The only bird
round and unflappable enough, the ptarmigan, is found
in arctic and subarctic areas, with temperatures even
Dalat cant match.
hen we arrive theres a group

of kids sixth graders
already waiting.
Do you mind if the kids
come with us? asks Le Xuan Lam, the
centre manager.
I am glad the kids are here. It means that
we will have company when we check out
the Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Station. More
importantly, their presence marks something
vital to conserving Vietnams ecological
diversity education. The kids are here to
learn.
After a quick coffee Lam takes us into
the centre, switching seamlessly between
Vietnamese and English. English for our
sakes, but also for the sake of the kids. Do
you understand what Im saying? he asks
in Vietnamese as he rifles off a sentence
in English. For Lam, education is always
two-fold.
The Wildlife Rescue Station was set up
by Wildlife at Risk (WAR) in 2006, and like
its northern Vietnam counterparts in Cuc
Phuong (conservation centres for primates,
turtles and carnivores) and Tam Dao (bears),
it fulfills a vital function in the role of
preserving Vietnams natural diversity. In
the past eight years over 2,000 animals have
passed through the centres doors, many
rehabilitated into the wild, many gradually
moved on to rescue centres in Hon Me (in
Kien Giang) and Cat Tien National Park.
But the role of the centre is not just to
rescue animals bred illegally on farms or
held in captivity, it is also, says Lam, to
educate the general public.
Raising awareness with the public is
very important, he explains. If we only
rescue one or two animals and release them
in the jungle, its a small thing. It doesnt
solve the problem of conservation the
animals are still under threat. We have to
raise awareness so the public can understand
how and why we have to conserve animals.
Rescuing animals is just temporary. Its just a
temporary solution.
The scale of the problem is huge. Last
year, says Lam, the environmental police
brought 1,000 individual animals to the
rescue station. Part of their investigative
focus during this period was on nearby Hoc
Mon, a rural district of Ho Chi Minh City.
[The environmental police] found many,
many endangered animals in restaurants.
And this is in just one district of Ho Chi
Minh City. They dont have enough people
to enforce the laws.
The need for better enforcement is

something echoed by Quyen Vu, the director
of Education for Nature in Vietnam (ENV).
Born out of the Cuc Phuong Community
Awareness Program in 2000 the project
educated residents in the Cuc Phuong
National Park area why conservation was
so important to Vietnam ENVs initial
mission was focused on raising awareness

and replicating the programme elsewhere.
We felt that community awareness
was badly needed around the country and
we could not protect parks and protected
areas without strong support from local
communities, explains Quyen. Since its
inauguration, ENV has provided training
and support to communities living in more
than 50 protected areas around the country.
However, while education is vital, after
a few years ENV realised that it was a
long-term investment and that a much
more aggressive approach was required.
Otherwise, people would continue to view
endangered wildlife as a source of profit,
and the populations of tigers, elephants,
pangolins and other species would continue
to dwindle.
We started focusing on strengthening law
enforcement, explains Quyen. We created
a national toll-free hotline to encourage the
public to take action and report wildlife
crime Today our strategy for combating
the illegal wildlife trade focuses on three
key areas: reducing demand for wildlife,
strengthening law enforcement and
improving legislation.
She adds: At the moment, we have
more than 4,400 volunteers around the
country and nine volunteers clubs in major
cities who are responsible for carrying out
compliance monitoring in their local areas.

They play as ENVs eyes and ears all over
the country.
Quyen and Lam want to pass on the
urgency of the situation through their work.
But how do they take the message home to
city dwellers, who must form the strength of
their network?
Humans are part of the ecosystem,
says Quyen. If we dont protect our own
living environment, we will destroy our own
human race.
Lams response is similar.
Animals, the environment, humans.
We are all connected. If animals are lost,
then this is a loss to our environment, and
humans will also be lost. Its a circle.
Back in the Rescue Station we come to the

first otter enclosure. Otters are far from
endangered in fact their population
numbers remain fairly healthy but they
are still a target.
The otters see us coming and one climbs
up a log to the edge of the enclosure,
looking at the new visitors. Lam puts his
hand out and the otter places his paw
through the wire mesh they make
contact. Then he encourages the kids to do
the same. They follow their lead. Everyone
is in hysterics. Very cute, says Lam in
English as I bring my camera close to the

enclosure to film the otter it puts out its
paw and claws at my lens.
Saving wildlife is not just about
imbalances in the ecosystem and about the
links between humans, animals and the
environment. It is for other reasons, too.
These animals are sentient beings, with
feelings and thoughts and brains. People
often forget this.
Years ago I was introduced to Abdul, an
orangutan who lived in Bukit Lawang, just
north of Medan in Sumatra. Somehow hed
become friendly with the park rangers and
guides, and although living wild, would
come down, greet them and communicate
with them whenever they approached the
jungle.
He cant say it, said our guide, but
hes expressed it through gestures and facial
expressions. The jungle is going, gradually
being cut down, and all the orangutans are
scared. Theyre worried that theyre losing
their home.
Conservation is not just about keeping our
ecosystem intact and saving the human race,
its about saving animals, too.
Says Quyen: We feel that we are running
against time and we believe that Vietnam is
heading in the right direction. But for some
species, our efforts might have already been
too late.
The Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Station

As with all NGOs, the wildlife rescue station needs money.
The more money they have, the more work they can do to
conserve Vietnams biodiversity.
To donate email info@wildlifeatrisk.org or contact Mr. Lam directly
on lxlam.wildlife@gmail.com or on 0984 281190.
The rescue station is located at Highway 15, Cho Cu 2,
An Nhon Tay, Cu Chi, Ho Chi Minh City.
Education for Nature in Vietnam

To donate to ENV, go to
envietnam.org/index.php/how-you-can-help/donate.
If you need to report a wildlife crime (from within Vietnam)
call ENVs free hotline on 1800 1522 or email hotline@fpt.vn.
Sometimes it seems there isnt enough love to go around for the hurt and abandoned
pets of Vietnam. Photographers Julie Vola and Francis Xavier meet four households
that have opened their homes and hearts to the animals supported by Hanois
Tram Cuu Ho Meo and Ho Chi Minh Citys Animal Rescue and Care
Tu Ngoc and Lucy

Snowball (seven weeks old), Sharky (five weeks)
and Joe (one year)
Fostered from T RAM C UU H O M EO in Hanoi
facebook.com/tramcuuhochomeohanoi
Until last week Snowball couldnt go up the stairs, so he
would be mewling every time the other cats and I would
be upstairs. Last week I kept calling him to come, and he
started jumping up one step at a time while mewling, as the
other cats and I looked at him from upstairs. It was so cute
looking at him trying to jump up one step at a time and
every single time he needed two or more attempts. He would
fall back on the stair and then try again and make it. Now he
can go up but he doesnt realise [how to] go down, so he
stays upstairs mewling, calling for us.
Aubrey and Soren

Big Nose Monroe, Honey Honey and Helen Blinky ages unknown
Fostered from ARC in Ho Chi Minh City
arcpets.com
Soren and I have been living in Saigon for four years. For the past two years
weve been fostering cats with ARC. We have fostered 32 kittens in that time.
Right now, we have Big Nose Monroe (the brown one), Honey Honey (ginger)
and Helen Blinky (calico). They are all available for adoption!
Monroe is the most playful of the three and his favourite toy to play with is a
blown-up balloon. Hell chase them all over the house and carry them around
in his mouth by the knot!
Honey Honey is also super playful but soooo affectionate. Whenever we
come home after a day out and about, he is very vocal about asking for pets!
Helen Blinky is a sweet and dainty little lady. She had a severe eye
infection when she was young which left her mostly blind, only able to see
shadows. Helens lack of vision does not slow her down a bit. She loves to
climb, run around and play. Shes the most outgoing of the three kitties and
always curious to check out anything new in the apartment.
Alison and Eddy

Puma (18 months old)
Fostered from ARC in Ho Chi Minh City
arcpets.com
Weve had Puma for about three months now. His fur
will probably never fully grow back, but now that he has
had his skin condition treated and with lots of love and
attention he has learned to trust people again.
He likes Chupa Chups lollipops, and is terrified
of toads but will happily take on a housefly. Youll fall
crazy in love with Pumas Beyonc booty shakin.
Hoa and Antoine

Vang (five months old), Corto (one year) and four unnamed kittens
Fostered from T RAM C UU H O M EO in Hanoi
facebook.com/tramcuuhochomeohanoi
Fostering cats is a lot of work and its sometime painful, walking on our
knees to catch a scared cat from under the stairs, looking everywhere
in a house to find the kittens the mum cat hid, setting the alarm to wake
up every four hours in the night to feed kittens or bringing a sick cat to
the vet in the middle of the night. A lot of cats and dogs are abandoned
by their owners because they are sick.
For me and my husband its a real pleasure, and every time the
phone shows a call from Quynh (the member of the association we
are in contact with) we think again! We always end up being impatient
and looking at the time, waiting for the new cat to come. And we always
end up being so sad when they go to their definitive adopting family.
In the original myth, the Four Holy Beasts of Vietnam came from the dying body of
Pangu he who was born from the Cosmic Egg that birthed the world.
But these symbols have come to represent more than an origin myth.
Theyre the sun and the moon, the seasons and elements, life itself.
Words by Ed Weinberg, illustration by Cristina Nualart
(Long / Rong)
The Symbol of Yang, Lord of Scaly Animals,
Source of Spring, King in the East,
Father of Wood
hen we talk about the Vietnamese

dragon, we talk about prosperity,
power and rainfall. We talk about the
universe, life and growth. We talk about
the identities of north and south. We
talk about the strange clay designs that
predate recorded history in Vietnam,
comprising features of crocodile, snake,
cat, rat and bird. When we talk about
the Vietnamese dragon, we talk about
Vietnam itself.
When the second Hung King, the
Dragon Lord of Lac, met his fairy bride Au
Co, Vietnam was born. When Hanoi was
first named, it was named Thang Long
rising dragon. In the year 1010, King Ly
Thai To designated it as the capital city
after seeing a yellow dragon flying above
the clear blue of its sky. The name stood for
Vietnams bright and developed future.
Halong Bay, Long Bien Bridge, the
section of Mekong River that flows
through Vietnam, Cuu Long, the dragonshaped bridge that breathes fire into the
Danang air every Sunday night all
commemorate this primal force.
(Phuong)
The Emblem of Bliss, Lord of Birds, Source of
Summer, Queen in the South, Mother of Fire
er face is a swallows, so sweet and

unassuming. Her beak is a roosters,
so good at snatching up snakes. Her neck
is a snakes, because why not?
She represents the cosmos her head
the sky, her eyes the sun, her back the
moon, her wings the wind, her feet the
earth, her tail the planets. Her feathers
contain the five fundamental colors
black, white, red, blue-green and yellow
said to represent the five Confucian
virtues. She is said only to appear in places
blessed with the utmost peace, prosperity
and happiness.
She originally contained both male and
female Phung the male part, Hoang the
female. But her equanimity was so great
her two sides soon merged.
Adorning a house, she represents the
loyalty and honesty of the people living
there; adorning the seal of an empress, she
represents her heaven-sent power. And
placed opposite the dragon, she represents
a perfect union of power with grace, yin
and yang.
(Ky Lan)
The Harbinger of Greatness, Lord of Furry
Quadrupeds, Source of Autumn, King in the
West, Father of Metal
he Qilin is said to herald the arrival

or passing of a great ruler or sage,
so its something to look out for... but
just what is it? At various times and in
various places, its taken on features
of a lion, tiger, deer, dragon, giraffe, a
Chinese unicorn, wreathes of flame and
smoke, an ox-tail and carp whiskers.
Its said that their voices sound like the
tinkling of bells in the wind.
They sit at the foot of pagoda stairways
and decorate the label of one Japans most
popular beers. And, in a slightly more
lionine form, they visit every Tet.
Before the lion was a source of Tet luck,
it was a village terror. To save the people of
a certain village, Buddha transformed into
ong Dia The God of Fortunes and Virtues
to try to control it. He picked a herb, linh
chi, to feed it, and the lion forgot all about
the yummy humans. Eventually he made
it into a pet, and when ong Dia and his ky
lan visit every year, people remember their
good fortune.
(Quy)
The Bringer of Long Life, Lord of Shelled
Animals, Source of Winter, King in the North,
Father of Water
n the seminal Chinese novel Journey

to the East, the Taoist god Xuan Wu
whose name is identical with the Black
Tortoise in Chinese characters had
both a tortoise general and a snake
general serving under him. Before all
that, though, he was the son of a ruler
who spurned the throne for the pursuit
of enlightenment.
But in order to achieve divinity, he was
told to purge every trace of humanity from
his body. As hed always eaten typical
human foods, his stomach and intestines
were impure. What to do?
No worries! A god came and switched
out these organs with divine ones. But yes,
worries, because the discarded stomach
and intestines became a turtle and a snake,
and they transformed into demons. When
Xuan Wu brought them to justice, they saw
the error of their ways and swore to make
up for their badness. They became his
generals, and intertwined themselves for
any number of clever pagoda displays.
During the expedition, he

would discover a footprint
on the forest floor that,
after analysis, was deemed
far too large to belong to
any known ape. And so, the
legend of Vietnams own
Bigfoot was born
In the jungles of Vietnam lurks an unsolved mystery.

The missing link, or just a tall tale? Words by Karen Hewell.
Illustration by Vu Ha Kim Vy
t was late afternoon on a scorching day

in Vietnams Central Highlands. An
exhausted group of American soldiers
the 101st Airborne Division LRRPs were
preparing to continue up a mountainous
jungle incline. It wasnt steep, but their heavy
packs made even a slight climb feel like
scaling a cliff.
Exhausted, the six-man patrol elected
to take a break. Careful to keep watch, the
men leaned against a wall thick with foliage,
loosened their packs, and peered out into the
quiet jungle brush.
Suddenly, a thicket of trees just metres
down the hill shook violently. Drawing
their weapons in frenzied terror, all six men
whipped around towards the commotion
and waited for the intruder to emerge. When
it did, no one was ready for what they saw.
Peering out from the trees was a massive
face with dark, deeply set eyes and thick
with hair. Or was it fur? Slowly, it strolled
into the clearing upright like a human, but
with muscular arms and a heavy torso like
something else.
What is that?! one of the soldiers
whispered, terrified, arms trembling with his
weapon still trained on the creature.
Its an ape, a rock ape, another soldier
answered. He paused, second-guessing
himself. It has to be.
No one moved. No one dared to. After
what felt like eternity, the creature lost
interest, turned towards the jungle, and
disappeared. An ape it might have been, but
no one was convinced.
The six men would eventually find out that

they had not been the only ones to see this
terrifying, mysterious creature. Vietnamese
living in the area and American soldiers alike
had reported sightings, yet no one had an
explanation for what they saw. Unsure of
what the creatures were, locals simply called
them nguoi rung the people of the forest.
So numerous were the reported sightings
that in 1974, the authorities launched an
expedition into the Central Highlands region
to search for the creature. Leading the way
was Professor Vo Quy. During the expedition,
he would discover a footprint on the forest
floor that, after analysis, was deemed far too
large to belong to any known ape.
And so, the legend of Vietnams own
Bigfoot was born. The mystery of nguoi rung
would become yet another Bigfoot fable in
Southeast Asia, which famously included

Borneos Batutut, a reportedly aggressive
creature known to attack humans and eat
their livers.
Sightings of nguoi rung continued, and
despite eyewitness reports inconsistency
on the creatures colour and size, they
were enough to convince Professor Tran
Hong Viet to take up the search again in
1982. He became the second scientist to
find footprints this time in the jungle of
Vu Quang near Ha Tinh and is one of
the countrys leading researchers into the
legend of nguoi rung.
Dr. Tran continued his research into the

mysterious forest creature for almost four
decades, but after his initial discovery,
found little evidence to support its existence.
That is, until the world took notice, and the
American paranormal TV series Destination
Truth decided to take up the story.
Airing their episode on Vietnam in
July 2012, alongside a charismatic host,
the intrepid band of researchers and a
full television crew set off into the jungles
of Vietnam in search of the creature. In
charmingly theatrical style and with
the help of motion detectors, thermo-radar
and some very clever editing the team
emerged from the forests triumphant with
what Bigfoot researchers called the most
convincing proof of existence of nguoi rung.
But despite the find, the legend of nguoi
rung is still hotly debated, since the Vu
Quang forests where the creatures are
thought to roam have also yielded a
number of previously unknown species of
mammals since the tales began. Discovered
in the 1990s, the Vu Quang ox (sao la)
and the giant muntjac were the first
new mammals to be discovered in
50 years. Many experts believe that
the nguoi rung creature is simply an
undocumented species of ape or,
more likely, a tall tale contrived
through the fantastical imaginations
of would-be cryptozoologists.
Regardless, the legend of Vietnams
very own Batutut lives on until this
very day, and has proven to be one
of the countrys unsolved mysteries.
Nguoi rung or not, there is certainly
something lurking in the jungles of
Vietnam. And it has very, very big
feet.
The rst national park in the country, Cuc Phuong

also has Vietnams most advanced animal rescue
and conservation centres.
Words by Hoa Le. Photos by David Harris
hen we arrived at Cuc Phuong

National Park on a humid
off-season day in June, it was
nearly empty. In contrast to the
other times Ive been there, there were no
flocks of tourists or students hoping off
buses at the entrance. Only hundreds of
beautiful butterflies welcomed us.
Cuc Phuong is the first and the oldest
primary forest in Vietnam, established in
1962 during the American War, under the
direction of Ho Chi Minh. Its one of the
richest sources of biodiversity in the country,
with 97 mammal species, 300 bird species, 36
reptilian species, 17 species of amphibians,
11 species of fish, 2,000 plant species and
thousands of insect species. Despite being
recognised early as a nature preserve, until
recently poaching and illegal hunting were
still rampant.
Although the summer isnt a good time
to spot wild animals, were okay with that.
Were not relying on chance; we are visiting
the endangered species that stay in the
parks three rescue and conservation centres.
The Delacours langurs have an easily

recognisable appearance because of the
white fur on the legs. They are also known
as the white short langurs or vooc mong
trang (white bump langurs) in Vietnamese.

Despite being named after a FrenchAmerican zoologist, Delancours langurs
are endemic to Vietnam. But the way these
creatures were discovered is a story in itself.
According to Tilo Nadler, the founder
of the Endangered Primate Rescue Center
(EPRC), the first Delacours langur was first
spotted in Cuc Phuong in the 1930s. But for
50 years after that, there were no sightings of
these beautiful creatures; whether they were
extinct or just hiding deep in the karst stone
forest was a mystery.
In 1987, local forest dwellers happened
upon two Delacours langurs in Cuc
Phuong. And this time, the Frankfurt
Zoological Society decided to carry out
research to find more information on this
rare species. The research didnt disappoint
them the discovered that the primate
was native only to Cuc Phuong and a few
neighouring areas. And they were critically
endangered.
At that time, Nadler was working as a
biologist in Germany and was assigned to
do the research. These animals were so
beautiful and critically endangered, so I
thought I needed to do something about it. If
we dont protect them, they will eventually
be gone.
With the agreement of the parks director,
in 1993 Nadler built a primate rescue centre.

Together with his wife Nguyen Thi Thu
Hien, he has dedicated almost all of his life
to the rescue, cure and care of rare primates.
20 years ago there were 18 or 19
subpopulations, comprising nearly a 1,000
individuals. Today, with a population of less
than 250, Delacours langur is listed as one
of The Worlds 25 Most Endangered Primates by
the International Union for Conservation of
Nature (IUCN).
and in small populations in Laos and

Cambodia. According to Nadler, the langurs
critically endangered populations are highly
fragmented and are estimated at about 1,000
individuals.
As for the centres humans, Nadler and
Hien are happy with their results so far, but
they are worried about running out of cages.
And anyway, as Nadler says, Its sad to see
animals that live only in cages. One day we
want to release them all back to the wild.
As Hien shows us around the cages of 50

rescued animals, she tells us how they came
here. All of the animals were confiscated
from hunters and illegal traders, and many
were severely injured when they arrived.
One Delacours langur sits on a branch
high in his cage, his long furry tail nearly
touching the ground. He quietly watches
us as we come close. According to Hien, he
knows we are newcomers here because we
arent wearing staff uniforms.
The ultimate goal of Nadler and the centre
is to release these animals back to the wild
after rehabilitating them and training them
in natural habits in semi-wild areas.
In 2012, five Delacours langurs were
successfully released by the centre to Van
Long Nature Reserve, about 30km from
Cuc Phuong. In order to keep these animals
safe, EPRC also hired 30 guards from eight
communes around the area.
Many of these guards were once actually
hunters or the sons of the hunters, Hien
says. Now theyre aware that hunting is
not okay and they also make an impact on
others. No more hunting is carried out in the
area. All the guns were collected.
Aside from the Delacours langur, EPRC
has also released 10 Ha Tinh langurs back to
Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park in Quang
Binh Province, where this species mostly
originates from.
As Hien takes us around other cages, we
see more beautiful and colourful langurs.
There is the famous Cat Ba langur, known
as the golden-headed langur because of the
fur on its head. They are found only on Cat
Ba Island, not anywhere else in the world.
There are four individuals in the centres
keeping. In the wild, there are sadly only
55 left and not in one population, but in
several groups, isolated and without contact
with each other. This makes them even more
critically endangered.
In the next cage sits a beautiful greyshanked douc langur. Described as among
the most beautiful primates in the world,
these douc langurs were only discovered
in Vietnam in 1997. They are only found
in Central Vietnam Quang Nam, Kon
Tum, Gia Lai and Quang Ngai Provinces
As we enter the Turtle Conservation Centre

(TCC) across from the EPRC, many beautiful
and tiny turtles slowly crawl on the ground,
while some swim in a pond inside the
enclosure. They are among the 700 aquatic
and terrestrial turtles and tortoises, from 18
species, being rehabilitated or hatched here.

Manager Do Thanh Hao picks up one
small, keeled box turtle, which is native to
the park, and explains its character to us.
The hand-sized turtle has a yellow-brownish
carapace, which is serrated on the lower
edge just like a pretty autumn leave. In the
middle of its bottom shell, the plastron, the
turtle has a hinge that lets it close most of its
body into its carapace top shell like a
box. Thats how the name came about.
The most valuable and critically
endangered turtle in the centre is the
Vietnamese Pond Turtle or rua trung bo. Its
native habitat is in Quang Ngai and the
surrounding central regions. Out of the 300
dark yellow stripe-headed turtles in the
centre, 71 of them were transferred last year
from the Munster and Rotterdam Zoos.
Many of these guards were once actually hunters or

the sons of the hunters, Hien says. Now theyre aware
that hunting is not okay and they also make an impact
on others. No more hunting is carried out in the area
Donations
To provide financial and emotional support to the
conservation centres at Cuc Phuong National park,
please contact the following people:
Endangered Primate
Rescue Center
Turtle Conservation Center
Tilo Nadler
t.nadler@hust.edu.vn
Do Thanh Hao
haodt.turtleconservation@
gmail.com
Nguyen Thi Thu Hien

thuhien191072@yahoo.com
Carnivore and Pangolin

Conservation Program
Nguyen Van Thai
asianpangolin@gmail.com
In 2011, the TCC released 10 impressed

tortoises into Pu Mat National Park. The
impressed tortoise is a delicate species,
difficult to keep in captivity. So they decided
to give the animals a second chance in the
wild.
One year later, the TCC in cooperation
with Education for Nature Vietnam
transferred 186 turtles to the Cu Chi Wildlife
Rescue Station in southern Vietnam. The
shipment included elongated tortoises, Giant
Asia pond turtles, yellow-headed temple
turtles, South Asian box turtles and black
marsh turtles, which are all native to central
or southern Vietnam.
One of the highlights for our trip was

visiting the small carnivores and pangolins
at the Carnivore and Pangolin Conservation
Program (CPCP) conservation centre. These
animals sleep in the day and only wake up to
look for food when the sun has already set.
As we arrived at the centre at around 7pm,
we are able to see a few civets and binturongs
(bearcats) quietly striding around the cages.
The pangolins are still sleeping they
normally wake up at 9pm in warm weather.
As staffer Nguyen Van Thai shines light
on one of the cages, we see a beautiful
black-and-white-striped Owstons palm
civet walking quietly on a branch. Although
its just a little bigger than an adult cat,
its mouth, neck and tail are much longer.
Owstons palm civets are among the animals
at very high risk of being hunted for fur and
food.
The CPCP currently holds 38 carnivores,
including Owston's civets, masked palm
civets, small-toothed palm civets, binturongs,
leopards, common palm civets and five
Sunda pangolins. In the past, the centre
has released rehabilitated carnivores and
pangolins into Cat Tien and Cuc Phuong
National Parks. But according to Thai, since
2010 the programme hasnt received any new
individuals, despite proof of a number of
poaching confiscations.
Sometimes we receive reports of the
rangers confiscating animals, Thai says.
But by the time we receive the permission
to take them, theyve already been sold back

to the trade. The current law lists these
animals in endangered group IIB, one group
lower than critically endangered. This
means that when animals are seized, if they
are not able to be rescued or rehabilitated,
they can be sold for commercial purposes.
But in most cases, they are sold immediately,
without any real health examination.
This shouldnt come as any surprise
pangolins are easily found on restaurant
menus across Vietnam. In 2013, CNN
reporter John Sutter investigated the
pangolin trade and found a healthy supply
chain in place, with huge profits going to

traders of its meat and scales. In restaurants,
pangolins are sold for as much as VND7
million a kilo.
As we finally come to the pangolin cage,
Thai opens its box and we see a pangolin
sleeping in peace. The animal senses our
light, and slowly crawls to the back of the
space to continue sleeping.
We leave Cuc Phuong the next day, but
this time with a heavy heart and a big
question. In the future, will our offspring be
able to see any of these beautiful creatures in
the wild?
Getting There
Cuc Phuong National Park is in Ninh Binh Province
about 120km from Hanoi. To get there, catch a bus
from Giap Bat Station in Hanoi to the Nho QuanMe
area. From there, take a taxi or a xe om to the park.
Alternatively, the national park is located just
off the Ho Chi Minh Trail (Highway 15). Follow the
Thang Long Highway 30km out of Hanoi to Hoa
Lac and turn left. This road becomes Highway 15.
The park entrance is in Nho Quan.
Its sad to see

animals that live only
in cages, Nadler says.
We want one day to
release them all back
to the wild
Arthritis got you down? Looking for an arousal aid? Harry Hodge sets out
to research dierent medicinal wines, and the animals you may nd within.
Photo by Kyle Phanroy
ows the wine? I was asked.

Considering it was poured
by my Vietnamese soon-tobe father-in-law, I sat and
contemplated how best to answer.
Scaly, was all I could think of. It didnt
translate well. Interesting and different
drew a better response.
Ruou thuoc (medicinal wine) is a staple
of traditional Vietnamese and Chinese
medicines, both drawn from the thinking
that different animals can offer different
health benefits when infused in rice wine
or grain alcohol. Hence, the line between
wine and spirit can often be a bit blurry
especially after one or two cups. Some are
better described as whiskies and others as
wines.
While a visit to Ben Thanh Market in
Saigon yielded examples of snake and
scorpion wines, it took a trip further afield to
Hai Thuong Lan Ong in Cholon to turn up
traditional medicine shops selling a greater
variety of animal wines. Many shopkeepers
expressed concerns about trade secrets, so
some information has been kept deliberately
hazy. I tried a smattering of the wines
myself, although Im still waiting to see what
benefit (if any) to expect.
Ruou ran (snake wine) was first recorded

as having been consumed in China, and
nowadays it can be found in China, Vietnam
and the rest of Southeast Asia. Snakes
are widely believed to possess medicinal
qualities, and the wine is often advertised
to cure everything from farsightedness to
hair loss. Mostly in Vietnam, the thinking is
it increases sexual virility. I tried the drink a
couple of times, and the only effect I noticed
was drowsiness.
again, its most popular as a virility aid.

Known in Vietnamese as ruou ca ngua,
youve already heard of my exploits with the
stuff. Although its billed as a sort of cure-all,
I cant personally vouch for its effectiveness
in any category.
During our visit to Hai Thuong Lan Ong,

a few places offered ruou bo cap (scorpion
wine), such as the bottle pictured. Often
it was in a bottle that already came with a
snake or lizard. The traditional medicine
practitioner at one shop said this particular
wine is associated with treating joint issues,
sore knees, elbows and the like. Ours came
with little berries, and left our staffers
lightheaded and excitable.
Another favourite of my father-in-law, who
hails from Bac Ninh Province, is ruou bim

bip (bird wine). In my case, the packaging
was minimal; a simple Tupperware with our
feathered friend immersed in a rice whisky
inside. My wifes family explained that its
helpful for treating kidney complaints, back
pain and anaemia. It also aids women after
childbirth.
While these seemed to be the ones we found

most often during research, other medicinal
wines can include different parts of animals,
some of which are of questionable legality.
Wines which include tiger bone, bear's
ears and other animal parts have a market,
for better or for worse, in this part of the
world. This publication does not endorse or
recommend any of these for recreational or
medicinal purposes, but simply offers these
descriptions for personal enlightenment.
Native Taxidermy
Plasticisation is the process of injecting polymer into tissue. Made
famous by the travelling exhibition Body Worlds, the quality of
the exhibits is world-renowned. However, if one is seeking similar
preservation of our worlds fauna maybe Vietnam is a little bit lower
on the list. Thuat don xac literally translates as the art of stuffing
heads, but looking at the infamous taxidermist endeavours at Suoi
Tien Amusement Park or the internet sensation red-eyed zombie
horse of Vietnam, one might think they less resemble art than high
school science experiments. Whether these oddities were preserved
due to their general oddness i.e. the five-legged deer, whose
Agent Orange-infected birth caused the one leg to jut out from its
sternum or displayed because of their botched post-mortem
stuffing, the weirdness level is sure to creep you out enough that your
subconscious will need to bury it. Seamus Butler
Ruou tac ke (gecko wine) is believed to be

helpful in curing rheumatism and coughing.
The particular bottle I tried at a friends place
in District 1 actually contained a seahorse
and gecko together. I hoped that, rather like
Spider-Man, drinking the concoction would
either give me the ability to climb walls as
lizards do or increase my swimming ability.
But all I got was a nauseous feeling.
In traditional Chinese medicine, consuming

seahorses is thought to be beneficial for
human kidneys, improve memory, help
women give birth and treat arthritis. But
Business
BEHIND THE SCENES
Pest Control
In Vietnam, there are plenty of cute and harmless urban animals:

the friendly neighbourhood dog that pads along the sidewalk,
the lazy cat that skirts in and out of alleyways, the little
gecko thats just sort of part of the wall. But then there are the
signicantly more annoying creatures and thats
when you call Absolute Pest Control.
Words by Margaret Smith, photos by Kyle Phanroy
oure sitting at home when

suddenly the worst thing
imaginable happens. A roof rat
which, by the way, can squeeze
its whole body through any hole thats big
enough to fit its head has made its way
into your house. What do you do?
Your first thought is probably to call
your landlord, who will maybe set up some
sticky paper or send up the security guard.
Yet as Vietnam has grown over the past few
decades so has the need for professional
exterminators. Southeast Asia already has
optimal weather conditions for rats and
insects but combine that with urban
development and sanitation, and you have a
pests paradise.
Think of it from both the residential and
the commercial aspect, says Curt Rischar,
a managing partner of pest management
service Absolute Pest Control. You have
property that is high-end property here,
as far as anyone is concerned yet that
property has been plunked right down in
perhaps an environment that would be very
different from a Hawaii or Singapore.
Humidity, constant development, hygiene
and sanitation infrastructure issues it
already sounds like a losing battle. Hows a
regular human supposed to match up? We
decided to follow the boys of Absolute Pest
Control, who have been in the business since
1995, as they bring out the big guns for some
of their more difficult jobs and were only
half-joking about the guns.
In an Apartment Complex
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
Were standing at the entrance of a villa in
District 1, complete with wood floors, high
ceilings, cream-colored walls and a private
patio. As he takes off his shoes, exterminator

Khuong walks in with two bags a
messenger bag slung over his shoulder and a
thick, square briefcase that looks straight out
of a heist movie.
Todays task is to check if any termites
found the previously installed bait box,
which carries insecticide. Khuong unclips
the briefcase and takes out the Termicam,
a handheld thermal camera that looks
like a laser tag gun. The Termicam detects
moisture which attracts termites and
termite movement through walls.
Curt explains that the Termicam is a
big improvement from scopes and motion
detectors. With the thermal imaging, he
says, you can look at a wall, you can look
at a ceiling, you can look at door frames and
it will you give you information that may be
very, very useful.
First Khuong checks the skirting, the
wooden strip that outlines the bottom of
the wall. A blue screen pops up on the
Termicam. As Khuong slowly walks around
the room, we finally make our way to the
bait box. Theres a hole in the corner of the
wall where the wood has fallen apart.
Khuong points the Termicam, and on
the blue screen three black dots appear.
He explains that these arent termites, just
moisture damage, but the damage proves
that termites have been in the area. Time to
check the bait and see if the job is done.
A Residential Job
District 2, Ho Chi Minh City
Early Wednesday morning and were on
a residential job in District 2, checking the
house for pests and performing chemical
work. As we walk through the gate and
look at the neatly manicured lawn, flies and
mosquitoes start buzzing around our legs.
The four exterminators were following
start to suit up in green rubber gloves and
set up the days equipment: compressor
sprayers filled with insecticide and
something called a thermal fogger, that quite
frankly looks like a grenade launcher.

Chuyen, the team leader, and another
exterminator head to the backyard. First
they check the two bait stations. These are
designed for rats. The square plastic boxes
have one hole carved in on each side. The
idea is that the rat will scurry in one end, eat
the poisonous bait, and scurry out the other
end.
This is the rat of the plague of Europe,
climbing the ropes and the ships and this
kind of thing, says Curt, who has tagged
along with us today. Theyre native to
Southeast Asia, so theyre naturally in
coconut trees and in the countryside. But in
urban situations, like all over the world, they
do really well.
Next they examine both inside and
outside of the house: under the porch,
around curtains, in plants, and through
every corner. Inside, insecticide is only
sprayed in the bathroom drainpipes in
order to keep the chemicals to a minimum.
Outside, however, they give the houses
perimeter full treatment.
The final step is the thermal fogger, which
creates chemical fog to target flying pests
like mosquitoes and flies. It takes a while to
turn on; the electric starter doesnt seem to
be working. With one last push, however, the
fogger roars to life. The exterminator puts
on a gas mask and large earphones, walking
around the house as fog follows him. The
sound it makes is something like the sound
in movies when the apocalypse is starting.
And for some of these insects, this is the
end of the world. As we walk out, Curt
points out a cockroach on the ground. Its
having trouble walking, and each time it
finds its footing it falls back down. Twisting
and turning on the ground, Curt says that
the cockroach has come into contact with the
insecticide. Its at the end of its life.
Check out your pest control options at
absolute-pest-control.com.vn. With operations in
Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Hai Phong and Nha
Trang, Absolute Pest Control can take care of
most any pest problem
Southeast Asia
already has optimal
weather conditions
for rats and insects
but combine that with
urban development
and sanitation, and
you have a pests
paradise
Pest Control at Home
What should you do before you call
in the pros? Here are some tips:
Keep your windows and doors
closed to keep out flying pests and
any other creepy crawlers. Fresh air
is nice, but a mosquito flying around
your bedroom is not
Make sure to keep your food
contained, the easiest way to ward
off rats and ants
Get rid of any dirty, standing
water. Even that bucket you keep in
the bathroom for emergencies
Check with your neighbours. With
the close proximity of property
here, pests can move from
house to house with ease. If you
cant do anything to control your
neighbours mess, at the very least
youll know where the problem is
when you call the professionals
Ant chalk, also known as Miraculous
Insecticide Chalk, is an insecticide
in the form of a stick of chalk.
Although miraculous for its clean
and fun approach to pest control,
its also been implicated in a number
of accidental child poisonings
Arts
PUBLIC ART
Saving Face
On a housing complex wall in Ho Chi Minh City, an anonymous story plays out
in a parade of changing faces. Emma Roy-Williams ponders the thought behind
these solitary thinkers. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
heres something else I forgot

to show you, Van says.
I met the softly spoken
Vietnamese artist two days
ago, and now, Im stood in the hallway of his
impressive house. While waiting, I stare up
at a five-foot picture of a ballerina hung on
the wall. She is in full flow, her arm painted
to capture her movement with exquisite
attention to detail.
Van emerges from his room with a
handful of CDs, all album artwork that he
has designed for Vietnamese metal band
Black Infinity and popular Vietnamese
singer, My Tam. He hands them to me
proudly, and I look through them.
Wow, these are beautiful, I say, then
wince at myself, realising that Ive used
that word to describe a lot of his work
throughout our conversations. But thats
what it is: beautiful.
is. He saw similarities between this and the

wall, and uses nothing more than a small
black rock to chip away at the concrete and a
whiteboard marker to draw in the details.
The faces wear the expressions of people
who are alone in their thoughts, and that is
what interests Van.
I think everybody has sad feelings,
although they can smile and be happy and
in the moment, he says. But when they are
alone at night they are in their mind and that
is when they feel sad.
In a world that is lived very much in the
public eye, saving face being in control
of your emotions or at least looking like
you are is central to having respect. To
relinquish control of your emotions is seen
as a sign of weakness.
Vietnamese culture is very much about
the mind, Van says. [People] can be happy
outside but they can be sad inside.
The Writing on the Wall
Art for Arts Sake
I first came upon Vans work when visiting a

friends house in the same gated compound
in which Van lives in Ho Chi Minh City.
He draws faces onto a large wall opposite
his front door faces that change every so
often. Every time I visit, I gaze at the wall
for a few moments and try to find whats
changed since the last time I saw it.
The faces look like a part of the wall,
as though they appeared from nowhere,
although its no secret that Van is the artist
behind it. Since the first time I saw the
mural, I hoped to one day catch a glimpse of
the face behind the faces.
So, when Van finally appeared from his
house one day and invited me in to look at
his portfolio, I felt privileged to be meeting
this creative recluse.
Im enjoying a rare look at these faces before

theyre paved over by Vans latest muse,
having only been seen by a few passers-by.
And already I feel a sense of nostalgia for
them, hidden away in this tiny pocket of
the city. Public art like Vans can provide an
escape from the daily grind and a kick to
the imagination an important faculty that
is often neglected, particularly in a fastpaced city like Saigon, built on certainty and
straightforwardness.
I would love for many people to see it
if its public and people like it then they
understand me, Van says. This is the way
he puts his perspective out there, as my
character is not very social. But he doesnt
have ambitions to make this art viewable
to more people. This project is essentially a
private one.
But if youre interested in impractical
perspectives like Vans, with values like
solitude and emotional honesty, sometimes
you have to take the long way home and
look in any direction but straight ahead.
Under the Cover of Darkness

On my second visit its late. We had planned
to talk while Van worked on the wall, but
now he says hes too sleepy. At first Im
a little disappointed, but throughout the
night it becomes clear that the wall is a side

project, an opportunity to experiment and
express himself.
He works on the wall at night because
it isnt as hot as the day, he says, although
having new faces appear in the morning
does give the wall an unearthly quality. For
Van its a meditative, fun process.
At night when people sleep I face the
wall and see which bits look like a nose or
an eye, he says. Its like a game find
the face. At first its for myself, to release the
picture in my mind. And then it grows to
another level and is for other people.
He shapes the faces by using the existing
contours and shades of the wall, and then
drawing in the detail. He got the idea while
working with acrylic on canvas at art school.
On canvas, the bottom layer is always white
the more layers you put on the darker it
is and the more you take away the lighter it
The faces look like a part of the wall, as though they appeared from
nowhere, although its no secret that Van is the artist behind it
Provided by the artist
Arts
PERSPECTIVE
The Hong Kong

Connection
Top: Tran Quoc Tuan

By the Sea 3 (2014)
Left: Tran Minh Tam

Empress Nam Phuong 6 (2014)
Right: Bui Tien Tuan

The Girl in the Flower Dress (2013)
Images provided by
Craig Thomas Gallery
Even though Vietnam has developed a market for

contemporary art, domestic galleries continue to
invest in expensive Hong Kong exhibition space to
show Vietnamese artworks. Cristina Nualart asks
why this is happening and if its a good thing.
Photos provided by Galerie Quynh,
Craig Thomas Gallery and Suzanne Lecht
he people at the centre of this

werent alive when it all started.
For most of the 20th century,
no country outside of Vietnam
(and a few in the Eastern Bloc) ever saw
contemporary Vietnamese art. Despite a
rich 70-year-old tradition of painting, much
of this art was kept under wraps even in
Vietnam, where mistrust and censorship
kept things lying low for decades.
In Hanoi, art collectors were friends of
the artists, who mainly bought artworks
to help their painter friends survive.That
changed in 1991, when a Hong Kong art
gallery, Plum Blossoms, presented Uncorked
Soul, a group exhibition of Vietnamese
artists. The exhibition had a startling
effect, if not an immediate one, says Nora
Taylor, art historian at the Chicago School
of Art. It took a few years for galleries and
museums elsewhere to notice Vietnamese
contemporary art.
But foreign collectors jumped at the
opportunity. In the early 1990s, Hong
Kongs yuppies travelled to Hanoi for
exotic weekends away. For investment
and pleasure, they would buy 10 or 12
Vietnamese paintings at a time, recalls art
consultant and erstwhile gallerist Suzanne
Lecht.
Suzannes life was transformed by
Vietnamese art. Graduates from the Hanoi
Fine Arts University were the first generation
that, from the early 1980s, could choose to
paint something other than propaganda
art. When Suzanne encountered the art of
The Gang of 5 as five of the universitys
graduates called themselves she was
inspired to make their art her mission. With
no time to waste, Suzanne moved from
Japan to Hanoi in 1993, the same year that
Vietnamese art was exhibited internationally
for the second time, in Holland.
Plum Blossoms Arent Just For Tet

Plum Blossoms was the first foreign gallery
to introduce Vietnamese painters abroad.
Over 10 artists from the north, centre and
south were chosen for Uncorked Soul. Many
of the artists had worked with the first
government-owned art gallery in Hanoi,
founded in 1965. At that point, not one was
known outside Vietnam.
In 1991, the Vietnamese authorities
had just lifted the ban on abstract art. At
the Plum Blossoms exhibition, abstract
paintings shone radiantly in their newfound
freedom. Figurative works had transitioned
from social realist iconography into more
expressive images. New artistic forces were
born.
Instrumental to the Uncorked Soul show
was the hardback catalogue. It wasnt just
a book to be judged by its stylish cover
one might even say it was the shows best
marketing tool. The text, written by Jeffrey
Hantover, enlightened the outside world
on how modern Vietnamese painting had
evolved. Interviews with the artists and
some historical background helped art lovers
Images provided by Galerie Quynh
In the early 1990s, Hong Kongs yuppies travelled to Hanoi

for exotic weekends away. For investment and pleasure,
they would buy 10 or 12 Vietnamese paintings at a time
see the importance of what these artists
were looking at. It probably contributed to
more than one investment in art, and at high
returns, no doubt.
Seeing Beyond
Mekong Delta artist Nguyen Trung, now in
his seventies, was one of the artists whose
work first made it to Hong Kong. In his
1960s youth, wanting to see French art at its
best, Nguyen Trung had tried to escape to
Paris. His plan failed the first time, but the
painter did get to Paris 30 years later.
Many of the paintings he made in his
year in Paris in 1990 were exhibited in
Uncorked Soul. In Hong Kong, Trung also
had the opportunity to discover powerful
artworks by Chinese artists, and this made
an impression on his own eager soul.
Other Vietnamese artists were also excited
to visit what was then a British territory.
In 1997, Suzanne Lecht organised another
exhibition in Hong Kong, The Changing Face
of Hanoi, taking all five exhibiting artists with
her. For most of them, it was their first trip
outside of Vietnam. This show was smaller
in scale and scope than the exhibition at
Plum Blossoms a few years earlier, but it
kept Vietnamese art from slipping back into
invisibility during the transformative Doi
Moi decade.
Vietnam transformed in all directions. A
Hong Kong company in 1995 had built the
first high rise in Hanoi, the Central Building.
Suzanne had assisted the developer, a
supporter of Vietnamese art, to procure two
large bronze statues by sculptor Le Cong
Thanh for the buildings entrance. And
Hong Kong investors gave Hanoi something
to look up to.
Saigon Gets Global

While the Uncorked Soul exhibition was a
phenomenal promotion for Vietnamese art,
international fairs are the best publicity. The
people milling about at art fairs, dealers,

collectors, museum curators and general art
lovers are the first ones to notice changes
and new developments in the art world.
The first Vietnamese gallery to participate
in an international art fair was Galerie
Quynh. From 2010 to 2012, Quynh Pham
had a yearly booth at Art Hong Kong, the
original Hong Kong art fair. In those three
years we saw very few Vietnamese visitors,
says Quynh. But she did sell to a small
number of Vietnamese from the diaspora,
and, of course, to non-Vietnamese. Now in
their tenth year of operation, the gallery is
working hard in Vietnam to build trust with
affluent locals, who are increasingly keen to
learn about art.
From the Nineties to the Noughties
Vietnam got richer. Not evenly or
consistently, but on a high enough level to
energise the country with the buying buzz.
But expensive handbags are higher up the
Vietnamese shopping list than paintings,
says Shyevin Sng, owner of VinGallery in
Ho Chi Minh City. Like most other gallerists
based in Vietnam, Shyevin knows that sales
will often be better elsewhere. She has done
art fairs in Korea, Singapore and, of course,
Hong Kong.
Hers was the only Vietnamese art gallery
in the luxury Hong Kong hotel that hosted
the Asia Contemporary Art Fair in May of this
year. At the fair, VinGallery received visits
from a few Vietnamese who live in Hong
Kong. Shyevin says, They were very happy
to see our gallery there, and came to say
hello. But they didnt buy. They think its
cheaper back home.
Foreign visitors who were curious about
Vietnamese art were surprised to actually
see some. Lots of questions were asked,
especially about lacquer painting. Sales were
made, with Hanoi landscapes making it to
the bestseller list.
But an increased profile for Vietnamese
art meant VinGallery had competition. A

number of Hong Kong galleries who deal in
Vietnamese art were also exhibiting.
Craig Thomas knows this from personal
experience. His Saigon-based Craig
Thomas Gallery, which shows Vietnamese
art exclusively and celebrated its fifth
anniversary last month, participated in
the Affordable Art Fair in Hong Kong this
year and will be returning next year. The
well-organised fair, he says, attracted a large
number of buyers from China.
The International Connection

Decades after his Plum Blossoms success,
artist Nguyen Trungs work is still
shipped to Hong Kong. His latest abstract
canvases and sculptures were admired
mere weeks ago at Art Basel. Cuc Gallery
from Hanoi was the only Vietnamese
gallery to participate in one of 2014s most
prestigious art fairs worldwide. Asian
collectors, savvy about the cultural and
historical value of Trungs work, took out
their credit cards.
Evidently, art collectors are interested
in Vietnamese art. But all the gallerists
mentioned here agree on one thing, that
the collectors of Vietnamese art are rarely
Vietnamese.
Hong Kong is the biggest banking centre
in the world. Its a good market, says
Suzanne Lecht. Vietnam is a small market.
She compares the situation to Japan in
the 1980s. Rich Japanese would only buy
artworks by Matisse or other famous names
because their worth would be known.
Its the same in Vietnam now, she says.
Like Shyevin, she understands that the
shopping priorities of wealthy Vietnamese
are geared towards status symbols. The
solution to keeping the best Vietnamese
art in Vietnam, then, must be to brand
Vietnamese art as an object of desire on a
global scale.
Top: Pham Minh Tuan

Countryside (1997)
Left: Thanh Chuong

Self Portrait (1997)
Right: Pham Quang Vinh

In front of The Alter (1995)
Images provided by
Suzanne Lecht
LEISURE
FISHING & SHRIMPING
Taking
the
B
a
i
t
ing joints in Saigon

The shing
are a disappointment,
appointment, right?
As Markk Allan discovers,
come prepared and
theyre anything but.
have always enjoyed fishing as a

recreational pastime and distraction.
The premise of angling is the challenge
rather than the culinary objective
catch and release. I like both.
This article started when my editor
assigned me and our photographer Kyle
to accompany our guide and recreational
angler, Mark, to find some good fishing and
shrimping spots within the city. Although
Mark was a recreational angler in Canada,
he didnt catch any fish for the first six years

here in Vietnam. However, fishing is now big
business and there are a growing number of
dedicated fishing ponds, perfect for anglers
like myself, and of course Mark.
Pork, Shrimp Paste and Bamboo

Our first spot, Dong Dieu, was in District
8, a 15-minute ride from downtown Saigon.
I have been to this place before together
with a friend I spent six hours drinking
VND10,000 beer. Yet we caught only two

fish, not even 250g worth.
According to Mark, most of the fish that
at these places are pacu fish a South
American freshwater fish related to the
piranha family as well as many different
types of tilapia and Mekong giant catfish, a
species in danger of extinction.
Within 20 minutes Mark had caught a
2.5kg pacu even our beers and coffee had
yet to arrive. Using his own professional
rod he was able to cast further out into the

water than the standard bamboo rods for
rent. He also used some unconventional
bait thit suon (grilled pork). The bait is
normally shrimp paste rolled up into balls
or fresh shrimp meat both are available
for purchase at the pond. But for Mark it
wasnt good enough. He demonstrated the
superiority of his barbecued pork not long
after when he caught what looked like a
small version of the Mekong giant catfish.
Plying away with my bamboo rod and my

rolled up shrimp paste, I was still empty
handed.
Two other Vietnamese anglers close by
got their catch one a 6kg tilapia and the
other a 5kg snakehead. Both were using
professional rods and a range of fishing
lures. This confirmed my belief that the
rods and bait are vital, even in dedicated
fishing ponds. Although according to Mark
early morning is the best time for fishing, I
attribute getting that catch to other factors.

With our two hours over, we explored
the shrimping area, a small covered pool. It
was full with a fairly large group of people,
mostly couples. The property here is vast,
with areas to suit both individuals and
groups. The service, however, is slow best
to stock up on beverages at the makeshift
shop next to the shrimp pool upon arrival.
Shrimp Cocktail
Our next destination, Thanh Truc, is an
indoor shrimping spot where the pool is
situated in the centre of the space with
surrounding tables and chairs. It boasts
a newly built karaoke area, an extensive
seafood menu, exotic meats and various
shrimp cocktails and a mostly attentive
female staff. The cost for an hours
shrimping is VND90,000 although if you
make a catch, you pay for the crustaceans

and get your hour for free.
Shrimping is both easy and kid friendly,
and this spot would make for a good
Saturday or Sunday afternoon break with
family and kids. Within five minutes of our
arrival, the staff showed us how easy it is
to catch shrimp, bagging 10 of the creatures
with the bamboo rods and worm bait all
provided. In case you get bored with the
crustaceans, they also have free Wi-Fi.
Leaving Thanh Truc we headed to Thap
Nga, a recently opened, lavish fishing spot
and restaurant. The place is enormous.
From the entrance to the table we chose in
the centre was a five-minute walk had
we known, we would have used the free
buggy service provided to the designated
area. We were greeted by 10 waitresses, all
clad in Japanese school girl-style uniforms
with full-length stockings. Quick service is

a priority here several waiters were on
roller-skates and bicycles.
Browsing through the menu it became
clear that fishing was only of the attractions
of Thap Nga exotic dishes and cheap
beer are also part of the allure. The menu
included ca mat quy (devil-faced fish), ca
chinh (eel), ca duoi (batoidea or ray), heo toc
(wild boar) and heo sua (suckling pig). To be
on the safe side, we opted for the spare ribs.
With the sun high in the sky now, Mark
cast his line without any hope of catching
anything worth keeping at this time of
the day, the big fish usually go deeper to
avoid the sun. Yet after 15 minutes he caught
a 3kg pacu. Many people had told me that
the various fishing spots in town contained
very little fish. Yet already I could see that
the pools were well-stocked and the fish
Shrimping is both
easy and kid friendly,
and this spot would
make for a good
Saturday or Sunday
afternoon break with
family and kids
well-fed. After all, if you dont make a catch,

youre unlikely to come back for more.
The Garden of Relaxation

It was now running late and with one final
stop to make before sunset, we headed to
Vuon Thu Gian.
Arriving after 4pm there were few
people out for that afternoon catch. Besides
ourselves there were a couple of anglers
and to our surprise a group of westerners
drinking beer rather than fishing. However,
according to Mark, at the weekends Vuon
Thu Gian is a hotspot for families and
couples wanting a bit of privacy. It is also
popular at lunch with many regulars.
For me the problem was not the lack of
people, but the service the waitresses
although attentive seemed disinterested,
perhaps because of the day and time. As
for the menu, the food on here was typical

with a variety of poultry such a duck and
pigeon, as well as squid, octopus and frog.
Unlike the two other previous places the
menu did not have pictures and was only in
Vietnamese.
And yet this is one of Marks favourite
spots not because of the intimacy but
because of the catches. Here hes made a few
big ones, something to keep him coming
back for more.
Going to fishing ponds in Ho Chi Minh
City is not just about the all-important
catch, but recreation. Theyre places where
families and couples can go catch not just
fish, but a few hours away from the daily
grind. Another version of quan nhau or bia hoi
joints, the difference is the leafy, pond-filled
environment and the fact, of course, that you
can fish.
Information
T HAP N GA
168 Nguyen Huu Tho, Xa Phuoc Kieng,

Nha Be, Tel: (08) 62712712
thapnga.com
T HANH T RUC
793/35/4 Tran Xuan Soan, Q7, Tel: 0974

799669
D ONG D IEU
33/2 Cao Lo, Q8, Tel: (08) 2431 2949
V UON T HU G IAN
Nguyen Huu Tho, Cau So 2, Phuoc Kien,

Nha Be, Tel: 0989 770450
thugianthuanviet.com/
nha-hang-vuon-thu-gian
LEISURE
Stop 1
Bien Dong Restaurant,
8 Einstein Street, Thu Duc
There seemed to be no immediate
explanation for why there is an Einstein
Street at all in a place like Thu Duc. The
proximity of some nearby universities may
have something to do with it, but Hi-Tech
Park, a future metro stop, isnt exactly close
by.
Bien Dong was proposed by Paul Blake,
an American working as an English teacher
in neighbouring District 9. Blake often refers
to District 1 as being too western, so we took
his advice to try out this beer-and-seafood
quan amid a number of fancy coffee shops
and imported beer joints.
I climbed that tree one night, he said,
pointing. And instead of kicking me out,
HO CHI MINH CITY
The Insiders
Guide to
Thu Duc
With multiple metro stations on the way and a
developing road infrastructure, Thu Duc is closer
than ever to Ho Chi Minh City. Harry Hodge and
Amanda Saxton investigate a district on the rise.
hen we elected to take on a

feature on Thu Duc, I dont think
we were quite prepared for the
vastness of the district. It really
is its own city, with a population nearing
500,000, set to boom once the Ho Chi Minh
City Metro opens multiple stations there in a
few years.
The flip side of exploring uncharted terrain
is the people this charting will bring. On this
trip, a couple of the foreigners who tagged
along voiced worry that any publicity about
some of the places we visited would ruin it

for them. Then I scooped everybody in the
contingent with a trip to the student village
at Vietnam National University, and they had
to admit theres a first time for everything.
After the bustle of the first stops, the
tranquility of the other parts of the district
further removed from the Hanoi Highway
proved what a diverse and interesting place
Thu Duc is not just remarkable for outer
Saigon, but for all of Vietnam. Harry
Hodge
The flip side of exploring uncharted terrain is

the people this charting will bring. On this trip,
a couple of the foreigners who tagged along
voiced worry that any publicity about some of
the places we visited would ruin it for them
they put a table underneath in case I fell.

Unsure of Blakes account, but never one
to deny his behavior, his anecdote seemed
to prove itself as one party-hard patron was
carried by with the help of some waiting
staff at 3pm. I can only imagine what its
like at 8pm.
I think this is a nicer area, Blake says.
You can get good beer here, and I like the
coffee shops.
The six of us scarfed down a plate of
tamarind wings, grilled squid and snails,
and some Sapporos and Saigon Reds for
VND343,000 all told. An affordable and
certainly authentic Vietnamese drink-anddine hangout. Harry Hodge
Stop 2
Caf Tram, 132 Thong Nhat, Thu Duc
Not wanting to drink my face off in the
surprisingly varied Einstein warren of pubs,
we settled on a next stop at the arty Caf
Tram. Owned by screenwriter Le Kim Hung,
it was the little touches that made this dark,
mellow coffee shop so chilled out. Walking
across stones with fish lapping at the edges,
you feel like youve wandered into a sort
of beatnik enclave, replete with original
artwork on the walls, exposed brick and
flowers in coloured bottles.
In the plus column for Caf Tram were
soothing tunes and a lack of smoke. With
a cafe sua nong priced at VND33,000, and
nothing breaking the VND50,000 mark on
the menu, our group rated it a thumbs up.
A more sedate crowd was hanging out
this particular Sunday afternoon, including
stockbroker Tran Anh Tuan. After a week
making deals in District 1, he likes to spend
his weekends in the more laidback vibe of
Thu Duc.
In the future, when the subway comes,
Thu Duc will be popular, he said through
a translator, estimating he visits Caf Tram

twice weekly. Its cheaper out here.
I think the food is cheaper in Thu Duc
than District 1, and its more quiet (here),
said Lam Dinh, a 26year-old accountant
originally from Bac Ninh Province, who lives
minutes down the road. I think the weather
is good because we have a lot of trees.
She also felt the district was growing in
numbers compared to when she first moved
there, due to the roads making the area more
accessible to Binh Thanh, District 2 and
elsewhere. Harry Hodge
In League with Einstein

Other notables in the Einstein
neighbourhood: D RINK ! B EER G ARDEN
and P HA K E C OFFEE S HOP on Hoa
Binh; I B EER P UB at the corner of
Einstein and Thong Nhat; and N ICE
C OFFEE on Khong Tu.
Stop 3
The Vietnam National University Student
Village, 6 Quarter, Linh Trung Ward, Thu Duc
Within moments of pulling onto the placid
campus of Vietnam National University
exhortations of oh man, everythings so
cheap! rose from our travelling contingent.
This is not a huge surprise, since the
population living around and between
different faculties is overwhelmingly
peopled by students.
Faculties here include universities
for natural sciences, technology, social
sciences and economics, in addition to
an environmental institute and a medical
school. It is also home to the Ho Chi
Minh City High School for the Gifted.
As such, cheap dining options, clothing
shops, bookstores and cafs are scattered
throughout the campus area just on the

other side of the highway from District
9s Suoi Tien Amusement Park. On a
crossroads of sorts, some streets are Thu Duc
on one side and Di An Town, Binh Duong
Province on the other.
Highlights here include an outdoor
student market with lots of cheap snacks
and clothing my wife found skirts for
VND40,000 and my travel buddies sourced
a hearty plate of vegetarian food for
VND8,000. A bia hoi we elected to stop at
cost only VND4,000 for a glass of fresh beer.
If youre on a budget in Thu Duc, there are
worse places to be than on campus. Harry
Hodge
Stop 4
Temple Tour
Thu Duc is also home to a number of
temples, as we discovered driving around
the western edge of the district, where
bridges connect it over the Saigon River to
Binh Thanh. While this area is largely dotted
with simple one-storey family businesses
and factories, there are some notable temples
here to break up the shopping and eating.
Van Duc Temple (502 Tinh Lo 43, Thu
Duc) boasts one of the tallest non-residential
structures in the district, at the intersection
of Ngoc Van and Cay Keo. The portrait of
Thich Tri Tinh, the Supreme Patriarch of the
National Vietnam Buddhist Sangha, remains
on display there after the venerable religious
leaders passing in March, at the age of 97.
Monks go about their business as visitors
Stop 5
Lakeside Sundowner
Hidden within Thu Ducs labyrinthine
university campus, Ho Dat Caf perches on
the shore of a small lake. Getting there is an
adventure! An opportunity to experience the
extremes of Vietnamese roads from the
Hanoi Highway to a bumpily bucolic track
and practise the lingo: Ho Dat Cafe o dau?
If you crave peace and fresh air as
surely everyone in Saigon must this
rustic caf is worth the journey. Huddles
of hammocks with stone tables, sat among
eucalyptus and jackfruit trees, cater equally
well to social clusters, workers and nappers.
Gather up a picnic of street snacks and fruit
from stalls you pass along the way, and then
enjoy Ho Dats VND12,000 cafe sua da or a
fresh coconut.
There is food on the menu here, but its

chances of materialising are slim. Tranquillity,
on the other hand, is guaranteed. Far from
traffic and mercifully free from any 1990s
pop, the only soundtrack Ho Dat provides is
the occasional student strumming a guitar.
Packed dirt floors and a view of fishermen
wading with nets through the lotus-filled
lake make one feel far from modernity, yet
the Wi-Fi is strong and discretely dangling
extension cables abound. The only reason to
leave is fear of the WC.
To leave: find your way back to the
universitys main entrance on Highway AH1
and turn left. At the huge cloverleaf junction,
follow the signs back to Cau Sai Gon.
Amanda Saxton
Photos by Amanda Saxton
freely wander the grounds and garden in the

back, with the property open from 5am to
9.30pm, with a 90-minute lunch interval in
between. It is a colourful place of worship,
heavy on golden motifs and temple details
and significantly quieter than some of its
District 1 counterparts.
Other notable places of worship in the
area include Minh Gian Temple (212 Hiep
Ninh, Thu Duc) and An Lac Temple (434/6
Kha Van Can, Thu Duc). Considerable
roadworks in the area makes the latter
difficult to get to. As the city expands, the
new Pham Van Dong Ring Road, which
leads straight to Tan Son Nhat Airport, will
eventually connect to Binh Duong and Dong
Nai Provinces. Harry Hodge
LEISURE
CLIMBING
In Search of Meaning
(on a Mountain)
Daniel J
Daniel
Jenkins
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kins h
heads
eads tto
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he rremote
emote b
borderlands
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Lang
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o cclimb
limb tthe
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the village
village of
of Huu
Huu Lung.
Lung. Photos
Photos b
Nguyen Le
Le
fter an easy two-hour car trip we

arrive at Huu Lung, a tiny village
nestled in a valley framed by
towering limestone cliffs. Huu
Lung is not so much a town as a small
collection of cement houses close to Lang
Son, about 120 kilometres from Hanoi. It
is a place remarkable for three things: its
beauty, its remoteness, and the fact that
its cliffs have been bolted by a bunch of
western rock climbers. I am with these
climbers now, ready to ascend.
We approach the cliff face on a narrow
path, which weaves between cornfields
and rice paddies. I notice two graves on my
right and hope theyre not those of previous
climbers. The cliff looks menacing, rising
grey and mottled above us like a weathered
tombstone. Ive broken six bones, says
Thien, a muscular Vietnamese climber who
also rides motocross. But none of them
from climbing.
Our leader is Jean, the affable
Frenchman behind VietClimb. Jean is both
an astute businessman and an advocate
of climbing, having grown his business,
and climbing in general, over the last three
years. There was no word in Vietnamese
to define rock climbing when we started,
Jean says. Weve come a long way.
And he plans to go further. There
are hopes of a future partnership with
OXFAM, in which they would set up
a homestay at the Huu Lung site. This

would bring much needed revenue to the
local community.
Looking Up
My neck strains upwards as the cliff falls
into shadow. A series of bolts runs up the
cliff face tracks, I am told and under
each track, inscribed in the limestone, is
a name. The Metaphysics of Morality, reads
one, War and Peace another. The person
who first ascends the track after its been
bolted gets to name it, explains Jean. The
Metaphysics of Morality and War and Peace
are his. You know Kant? he asks. I tell
him I do but the conversation tapers off
as it often does when Kant is mentioned
and we prepare to climb War and Peace.
Vissay, a man of untraceable origin and
a former movie star (I was always the
villain!), is on his first outdoor climb,
and he is clinging nervously to the side of
the cliff.
Arms straight! Stay on your toes! Small
steps! LEGS! shouts Jean, and eventually
Vissay negotiates the problem and
continues triumphantly upwards.
What if I see a snake? Vissay yells
down.
You fall, says Jean under his breath.
Vissay makes it to the top and
everyone applauds. Theres a sense of
achievement in the 40-degree air, a sense
I look to see what loftily named track I have climbed The Critique
of Pure Reason perhaps, maybe In Search of Lost Time I read the
name under my track: Youve Gotta be Pulling my Dong
of camaraderie. What is at once a very solo
pursuit becomes communal the ropes,
the cliff, the people, the weather all
combine into a transcendental unity. Or
perhaps its just the heat.
I ask Vissay why he climbs. He laughs:
Jean is very persuasive. He is smiling like
hed just conquered Everest, or finished an
entire Tolstoy novel. Its like youre a kid
again, he says, back to the wild.
self-consciousness, and suddenly all Im

aware of is the cliff face the sharp tickle of
Youve Gotta Be
Next, Im told, it is my turn to climb. It is
Saturday morning. Im hungover, and have
just ingested 60mgs of codeine I was
in no state to hang from a cliff face. Im a
journalist! A passive observer! I protest, but
to no avail. Soon Im strapped in, helmeted,
shuffling nervously up the side of a
mountain. Dont judge me, I plead through
rasping lungs, Im a heavy smoker.
Youll be fine, says Gaille, my belay,
lighting up. We dont judge.
As my feet find the right crevices,
and my hands explore unseen holes, the
sounds below begin to fade, along with my
limestone on my fingers, the handcuff clink

of carabiner on rock and I begin to see the
reason we are here. Like trudging through

the pages of Kantian wisdom, this is an
endeavour in which the reward lies in the
effort put in. And the views are stunning.
But my foot slips, my arms ache I
can go no further. Thats enough! I yell
down, letting Gaille take the weight. I abseil
happily down, like Zarathustra returning
from the mountain. I look to see what loftily
named track I have climbed The Critique
of Pure Reason perhaps, maybe In Search
of Lost Time I read the name under my
track: Youve Gotta be Pulling my Dong.
By around 2pm we head back to the
cement house for a brilliant lunch. On the
way I talk to John, a climber from the US
who, when back in Florida, only climbs
indoors. Why? I ask.
There are no mountains in Florida, he
says drily.
Yes, I agree, looking up at the
twin peaks that encage the tiny village.
Mountains are important.
VietClimb run regular trips to Huu Lung,
as well as other awesome outdoor sites. For
more information go to vietclimb.vn
Food & drink
inding good ice cream in Hanoi

can be a challenge, given the lack
of quality ice cream places here.
Most local stores serve overly
sweet ice cream without a distinct taste.
The following ice creams, including both
locally made and foreign products, are
among the few that are worth a try.
Minh Thi gets the scoop

on the cream of the crop,
just in time for a
scorching summer.
DESSERT
Hanois
Best
Ice
Cream
Kem Dua
Kem Oc Que Trang Tien
Bao Oanh Cafe, 7 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh

(opposite Truc Bach Lake)
While the place has a prime view of Truc
Bach Lake, customers complain about
not-so-clean chairs and hawkers who
stand outside the caf and try to get people
inside. Still, its worth going for the unusual
speciality: not the ice cream with coconut
flavour that you may be familiar with, but
milk ice cream served inside a coconut
and topped with dried cherries, shredded
mature coconut, raisins and a little peanut.
At the price of VND70,000, the ice cream
isnt cheap but the quality of the green
coconut is far superior to that offered for
VND50,000 at the famous establishment on
Hang Than. Use a spoon to scrape out the
gelatinous, creamy and tender coconut meat
and eat it with the ice cream and a touch of
cherries or raisins. Coconut heaven!
Kem Trang Tien, 35 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem

Every Hanoian knows about Trang Tien
ice cream. Ask anyone you find eating the
ice cream there and they will likely tell you
a story about how the ice cream store is
linked to their childhood. Since 1958, the
store has been popular with kids. Its where
parents often take their kids to reward them
for good behaviour or a good mark earned
at school. Consequently, its almost always
crowded, especially right after working
hours when adults leave the office and
pick up their kids from school. Sometimes
couples who wander the area of Trang Tien
also end their dates with an ice cream there.
Kem Trang Tien is served as a takeaway,
but most Hanoians just stand there and eat.
While the place offers various flavors such
as green rice (kem com), green bean (kem
dau xanh) and coconut milk (kem sua dua),
its the kem oc que that is most popular and
makes the place famous. Kem oc que is so
simple either vanilla or chocolate served
in a cone, with no additional ingredients
that one might wonder why its so
famous. It may not be right for demanding
gourmets who look for a special treat
made in heaven. Yet, at the price of only
VND12,000, its affordable simplicity at its
best.
Kem Xoi
Gelato Italia
Buds Ice Cream of San Francisco
Corner of Hai Ba Trung and Phan Chu Trinh,

Hoan Kiem
A popular hangout among high school
students, the store at the corner of Hai Ba
Trung and Phan Chu Trinh offers a wide
range of snacks and junk food. The most
well-known of them all is kem xoi, or ice
cream with sticky rice, which is served
in a very small bowl for VND15,000. The
mix between sweet ice cream and sticky
rice may sound strange, but its a pleasant
surprise, offering a textural contrast
enhanced by toasted coconut chips. The
street food vibe is also enjoyable, with
everything served at basic plastic tables
on the pavement. The easy, friendly
atmosphere and affordable price reminds
you why simple street food is so popular in
Vietnam.
31 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho

Want something more premium?
Conveniently located in Tay Ho where
most of Hanois expats live, this new joint
offers 18 flavours from standard vanilla
and chocolate to mango, rum, green tea
and hazelnut. The ice cream is of far better
quality than that found at most local ice
cream stores. Flavours like green tea and
mango have rich and distinct tastes that
remind you of the inspiration behind
them; we say you cant go wrong with
the hazelnut. Prices are quite expensive
(VND50,000 to VND120,000 depending
on how many scoops you order), but the
premium gelato is definitely worth the
expense. We recommend sticking to two
scoops so the flavours dont overwhelm one
another.
17 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem

This US brand has a number of stores in
Ho Chi Minh City, but only one in Hanoi.
It could be a people-pleaser, except for the
relatively high price. The quality is good,
though nothing special, and the range of
flavours is limited, but theres a surprising
richness to it: try the ice cream mixed with
fresh cream and bananas (VND60,000 to
VND150,000). Buds is also a good place for
relaxing and chatting with friends, indoors
or outdoors, in the heart of downtown
Hanoi.
Food & drink
PARTY TIME
Oh, This is Ladies Night
Its Tuesday, or Wednesday or Thursday, and youve got your heels

on and nowhere to go well, thats not quite true ladies,
as Margaret Smith and Aimee Millwood have lived to attest
adies nights in Ho Chi Minh City

are one of those things that girls brag
about to their friends back home
[editors note: Margaret is from
Wisconsin]. They have this thing here called
ladies night, and you drink for free. Now,

Im not joking, you drink for free. Until
like, midnight. Tequila shots, mixed drinks,
mojitos I know, I know, its amazing.
The free alcohol may be the draw, but
there are many different factors that make or

break a good ladies night experience. With
bitchy bartenders, inebriated co-patrons and
loud music, how much fun can you have on
ladies night?
Ho Chi Minh City
The Original
The Bro Bar
Lush
2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1
Beer Pong Its Fun

6/33 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1
THE SPECIAL: Ladies drink
THE SPECIAL: Buy-oneget-one games for groups with

three ladies or more.
mixed drinks and juice. We

recommend going along with
the fun though, and ordering
beer.
OVERALL EXPERIENCE:
3/5 stars Beer Pong Its Fun
is a great time if you go with a
group of friends. But you can
only do one thing here, and
thats play beer pong.
THE RUNDOWN: Beer Pong

Its Fun isnt big or well known.
Tucked in an alley near the
CMT8 roundabout, its a small,
brightly lit operation that
specialises in one thing beer
pong. Five to six long tables
take up a majority of the space,
with patrons crowded around
to cheer on each game.
THE DRINKS: You can
get other drinks at Beer
Pong Its Fun, like cocktails,
for free every Tuesday from bar

opening until midnight. Free
drinks include glasses of wine
(red and white), beer, mixed
drinks, tequila shots and Jger
bombs.
are no real bartenders at Beer

Pong Its Fun. You can go to
the cashier station at the end of
the bar and order, but usually
servers come up to each table
and take your order for beers
and games. Everyone is polite,
and servers usually pick up
stray Ping-Pong balls and wash
them during the middle of
games a nice touch.
THE MUSIC: There arent

any DJs here. Instead, music
is played from a computer,
and usually its top-40 hits or
techno. They seem to have a
volume problem, and its either
unbearably loud or too quiet.
BE WARNED: The final halfhour free drink rush is the worst.

THE BARTENDERS: Lush
OVERALL EXPERIENCE:
THE BARTENDERS: There
Be prepared to wait longer for

your drink the busier the night
gets.
4/5 stars The wide array of

free drinks means that its easy to
have a good time, plus you can
jump from room to room if you
want to dance or socialise.
THE RUNDOWN: With three

rooms and four different bars,
Lush is one of the best known
clubs in Ho Chi Minh City. Its
ladies night is arguably the
biggest and most popular in
Saigon. If youre looking to have
a big night, this is the place to go.
THE DRINKS: Its safe to say

that mixed drinks, shots and
beer are a good bet, but we
recommend avoiding the wine,
which is the cheap stuff (Dalat?).
seems to have a females-only

bartender protocol on ladies
night, and theyre not necessarily
nice or personable. We cant
blame them, though its
usually a packed house, with
patrons constantly bombarding
them. If you want nice, prompt
service, we suggest flashing a
VND10,000 to VND20,000 tip
when you want to grab a drink.
Men are always served first.
THE MUSIC: Lush plays a

combination of top 40, K-Pop,
techno and early 2000s hits.
The music is loudest in the
middle room, which houses the
dance floor and quietest in the
back, where patrons can sit and
socialise.
Illustration by Henry Ginsberg
Photo by Francis Xavier
The High Life

Level 23 Nightspot and Wine Bar
88 Dong Khoi, Q1
THE SPECIAL: Ladies get two

free cocktails every Thursday
night from 8 pm until bar close.
OVERALL EXPERIENCE:
2.5/5 stars A nice space with
a great view, Level 23 has lots of
potential. But the sweet drinks
and lack of crowd make for an
experience thats a bit lacking.
THE RUNDOWN: Level 23 is

on the 23rd floor of the Sheraton
Saigon. With both a balcony and
indoor club, it offers a great view
of the city and plenty of space
for both chilling and partying.
Unfortunately on a Thursday
night, their ladies night crowd is
pretty sparse.
THE DRINKS: Usually cocktails
at Level 23 run VND185,000

to VND220,000, so the ladies
night special is a nice deal.
Unfortunately most of the drinks
we tried were a tad too sweet.
The Bloody Mary was decent,
though, and came with a hefty
piece of celery.
THE BARTENDERS:
Bartenders interact very little
with customers, as its the cocktail
waitresses who take orders and
serve drinks. Theyre very polite,
although service can be a bit slow.
THE MUSIC: A mix of bassfilled V-Pop and top-40 hits, the

music at Level 23 is actually a lot
of fun, and spurred a few patrons
to hit up the otherwise empty
dance floor.
Party All Night

Want to keep the party going? Here are some more bars
to get your free drink on in Ho Chi Minh City.
S IN L OUNGE
22 Le Thanh Ton, Q1
T HE SPECIAL : On Wednesdays
before 10.45pm every group
of four or more ladies gets a
free bottle of Ciroc.
V ELVET
26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1
T HE SPECIAL : Every
Wednesday girls can get either
free drinks from a special menu
or a free bottle for groups of
four or more. Choose wisely,
because you cant do both!
The Sophisticate
Blanchys Tash
95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1
THE SPECIAL: Free mojitos

for ladies every Wednesday from
10pm to midnight.
OVERALL EXPERIENCE:
3.5/5 stars Blanchys Tash is
fancy and fun with good drinks,
but you cant dance anywhere
very easily. Its also a bit
annoying that you cant get free
drinks on the roof.
THE RUNDOWN: Blanchys

Tash is known for catering to
a more upscale crowd. Their
ladies night is on the main floor
only a space more set for
talking and mingling as opposed
to all-out clubbing.
THE DRINKS: Available

mojito flavours include passion
fruit, traditional and lychee. We
recommend the passion fruit

mojito, which really tastes like
passion fruit, as opposed to the
lychee, which is a bit too sweet.
Usually it takes one to three
minutes per drink.
THE BARTENDERS: The

bartenders are split along
gender lines, a nice change from
Lush. The male bartenders are
always nice, well-mannered and
prompt. The female bartenders
are the best, though having
fun, smiling and dancing behind
the bar.
THE MUSIC: Expect a mix of

hip hop, R&B and urban, mixed
with some top-40 hits to keep
the crowd happy. The music
is pretty loud though, so its
difficult to talk.
THE SPECIAL: Every

Thursday, cocktails and
mocktails are buy-one-get-one,
and all wines are 10 percent off
for ladies. Come dressed in pink
and get a free special cocktail.
OVERALL EXPERIENCE:
3.5/5 stars The discounts
arent as good as other specials,
and the vibe isnt that of a
typical girls night out.
THE RUNDOWN: Polite Pub is

one of the longest-running venues
in Hanoi, and it remains a staple
stop for locals and established
expats. Its a good place to go if
youre looking for high-quality
whisky, cigars and billiards.
THE DRINKS: Although the
Photos by Andy Crompton
ladies night special isnt as

good as some of the others and
the drinks are anything but pub
priced, they are well worth it.
You get what you pay for at
Polite Pub, and the free drink is
worth putting on pink for.
THE BARTENDERS:
Although the venue is small,
its rarely too crowded for the
attentive and quick bartenders
to manage.
THE MUSIC: The top-40s-
The Unwind
Polite Pub
5 Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
Hanoi
adies night in Hanoi

tends to be more
subdued than the allyou-can-drink debacle
in Ho Chi Minh City, but dont
worry girls, its still possible to
heavy mix sometimes has

hints of popular lounge,
electronic and house tunes. The
music doesnt seem to fit the
setting, but the quiet volume
is welcome respite from other
high-volume venues in Hanoi.
have a lively ladies night out.

Hanoi has plenty of established
ladies night specials, and fresh
ones cropping up routinely.
Heres a taste of what Hanoi is
throwing your way.
The Posh
F1 Club
15 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem
THE SPECIAL: All night long

on Wednesday, free flow mixed
drinks for ladies, or, groups of
four or more girls get one bottle
of vodka.
OVERALL EXPERIENCE:
4.5/5 stars If youre looking
for a classy girls night out
without the pretentious attitude
of other clubs, look no further.
mixed drinks are simple but

generous.
THE BARTENDERS: The

lounge has one main bar,
staffed with male and female
bartenders. It normally only
takes a few minutes to get
drinks, depending on how
crowded it is.
THE MUSIC: Head DJ and

THE RUNDOWN: The
recently opened OST Center
Lounge and Bar has quickly
made a name for itself. They
keep the drinks flowing even
when it isnt ladies night
with a free flow on Thursdays
for VND199,000.
THE DRINKS: The free flow
co-owner Cuong Bie spins a

versatile mix of house music.
In classic Vietnamese style, the
music starts loud and increases
in volume as the drinks flow,
but unlike many other Hanoi
venues, theres an escape from
the noise on the rooftop terrace
that looks out over the Old
Quarter.
How to Get a Drink on Ladies Night

As a lady, getting a drink on ladies night shouldnt be that
difficult, right? Wrong. Unfortunately bartenders will usually skip
over you for patrons that are actually paying for their drinks.
Want to get your free drink as fast as possible?
Heres what to do:
P AY
A TIP . Even something

as small as VND10,000 to
VND20,000 can make the
difference between a bartender
stopping your way or passing
you by.
S WITCH
BARTENDERS
EVERY FEW DRINKS .
If youre
going to the same person
every five or 10 minutes,
chances are theyll catch
on and make you wait a bit
longer.
M AKE
EYE CONTACT . If you

lock eyes with a bartender
they cant avoid you forever. I
KNOW YOU SAW ME.
BE
POLITE . This one is

a bit obvious. If youre nice
and not waving your hand in
everyones face all the time or
shoving your way to the front,
chances are bartenders will
be nice to you back. A lot of
ladies tend to forget this
Illustration by Henry Ginsberg
They have this thing here called ladies night, and you drink for free.
Now, Im not joking, you drink for free. Until like, midnight. Tequila shots,
mixed drinks, mojitos I know, I know, its amazing
Food & drink
MYSTERY DINER HANOI
Nan N Kabab
Serving fare from the Middle East, India, Pakistan and Afghanistan,
Nan N Kabab oers a welcome alternative to cuisine in the capital. Our
secret reviewer spills the chilli. Photos by David Harris
hen the mayo-laden

layers of doner kebab
banh mi dont cut it
anymore, head to the
Syrena Center on Xuan Dieu for an
altogether different dish that goes
by the same name but bears little
resemblance to the Vietnamese
sandwich. Im not suggesting you
enter the mall; instead, veer to
the side, where youll find Nan N
Kabab, an unassuming joint located
in what used to be Ba Chi Em, a bun
bo nam bo and pho ga restaurant at
the end of a row of tiny shops.
Surrounded by green trees and
dangling vines, the quiet patio dining
area has a pleasant, laid-back vibe. The
bamboo chairs and tables appear to be
a leftover from Ba Chi Em, although the
patterned fabric and colourful posters
draped in improvised fashion over the
bamboo walls makes it clear that this is
no longer a Vietnamese eatery.
As the name of the restaurant
suggests, the menu is basic
essentially grilled flatbread and grilled
meat but the flavours are authentic,
something hard to find in Hanoi.
Chicken seekh kababs (VND145,000) are
marinated in a chilli-laced paste and
grilled until golden but still tender.
Theyre served without the skewer,
which makes them easy to wrap in
broad triangles of nan.
Servers have a reasonable grasp
of English and are helpful and
accommodating. The menu, however,
needs to be organised in a more

comprehensive fashion. Kababs are
thrown haphazardly onto the page;
as a kabab novice, I wanted to know
the difference between the multiple
varieties so I would feel less like I was
ordering blindly. The menu offers
several types of chicken kabab alone;
what differentiates them? Country of
origin? Flavourings?
Some indication of spice levels
could also be useful. While I (a person
with self-described moderate spice
tolerance) found the chicken seekh kabab
just spicy enough to satisfy, a friend
with zero spice tolerance nearly started
to cry. She preferred the succulent
chicken reshmi kabab (VND135,000),
which offered a similarly complex
flavour with a hint of garlic and
almond but no chilli throb.
Made for Sharing

On the face of it, the kababs are also a
bit pricey when compared to Indian
restaurants in town like Khazaana
and Namaste. But dont be fooled. Its
done differently here the portions
are more generous and easy to share.
So pricewise its not so different. Each
dish also comes accompanied by a
flavourful mint-coriander chutney
and a crisp salad of tomato, onion and
cucumber. Ask for yoghurt sauce a
thin but creamy accompaniment that
can also help dilute any incidental
chilli burn.
If your mouth is still on fire, you can
also try the mint lassi (VND45,000),

a tangy, cooling yogurt drink with
a refreshing hint of mint. The nan
bread can also kill the heat, although
its different to those at other Indian
restaurants in town: thin rather than
fluffy, without the uneven char from
the grill that usually provides that
smoky flavour. And the filled nans
are meager, especially the cheese nan
(VND80,000), which comes with a
measly scattering of shredded cheese
rather than the gooey filling of melted
cheese one envisions.
A large bowl of creamy homemade
hummus garnished with lime and
olives (VND85,000), however, nearly
atoned for this error. Rich and garlicky,
it evoked the seaside vistas of the
eastern edge of the Mediterranean; it
was easy to wipe the bowl clean.
There are slim pickings for
vegetarians something fried in batter
and called vegetable cutlets, a few
paneer and vegetable dishes. A dish
of vegetables tossed in turmeric and
curry powder and grilled like kababs
(VND100,000) feels a bit overpriced:
maybe the spices need to be imported,
but the cauliflower, eggplant and
pepper surely come from local fields.
Still, its a decent vegetable plate, filled
with spices and the smoky char of the
grill, and with the green trees and the
breeze of the electric fan, it almost feels
like youre in the countryside.
Nan n Kabab is at 49 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho
THE VERDICT
12
FOOD
10
SERVICE
DCOR
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
STREET SNACKER HANOI
Pho Ga Tron
A variation on the noble pho, pho ga tron is popular with Hanoians in

the summer months. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by David Harris
ho originated in the early 20th

century in the northern province of
Nam Dinh, and has since become a
signature Hanoian dish. Over the
past century it has developed a diverse
range of variations. Not only are there pho
noodles with broth pho bo (beef pho) or
pho ga (chicken pho) but other offerings
such as pho cuon, pho chien, pho xao and pho
chay. Among these diverse choices, pho ga
tron or mixed pho with chicken is a modern
variation on a traditional favourite. If pho
ga is eaten at breakfast to start off a new
day, then pho ga tron is its younger sibling,
best eaten for dinner.
With a changed way of combining
ingredients, the cool mixed noodles are
more suitable for the hot summers than its
version with hot broth. Rich in taste, light
but appetizing, pho ga tron is the perfect
choice for the sweaty Hanoi weather of
June, July and August.
The main ingredients of this modern
variation of pho ga are simply noodles
and chicken meat. The chicken is boiled
to retain the sweetness of the meat, then
cut into slight pieces. The noodles are
quickly scalded in hot water, then dressed
with a layer of chicken fat so that they are
both soft and crunchy, as well as rich in

taste. Vegetables and herbs are added to
create balance. But like many other mixed
dishes think mi quang the key to a
tasty pho ga tron lies in the sauce, which is
the catalyst to bringing all the ingredients
together in harmony.
Pho Hanh
Among traditional pho eateries in Hanoi,
Pho Hanh (65 Lan Ong, Hoan Kiem) is
a firm favourite in the summer. Walking
along the Chinese medicine street,
thanks to the crowds sat outside on the
requisite tiny plastic chairs, the eatery is
unmissable. Its signature dish, pho ga tron
Lan Ong is famous for its appetizing sauce
and quality chicken meat.
We have been selling pho here for many
years, says the owner. When we opened
we were a small vendor, and our family
used to sell traditional pho ga like many
other shops. Then we started noticing that
the preferences of our customers changed
with the season, so we decided to make
pho ga tron for the summer. But the soul of
the traditional pho ga is still there.
For customers, the taste of the chicken
meat is one of the eaterys selling points.
Instead of using fatty or industrial chicken,

ga ta or chicken raised in the countryside
is used. The taste of this type of chicken is
richer, but not because of its fat it never
feels greasy. The skin is crunchier while the
meat is firm. The chicken wings and legs
are perfect for pho ga tron. Either is good.
But you have to use ga ta.
The other standout is the sauce a
perfect blend of sweet, sour, bitter and fat.
The sauce is made from chicken broth.
The sauce cannot define the character
of the dish if it is does not go with the
vegetables of Vietnam, explains the
owner. Fried onions, papaya salad and
traditional herbs like peppermint and
sweet basil add to both the look and
taste of the meat, creating an appetizing
mixture.
Pho ga tron is served up with a small
bowl of broth for diners many
preferring something with liquid to finish
off the dish. Like traditional pho ga, it
is also paired with quay or crispy fried
breadstick. Its an alluring combination.
Located at 65 Lan Ong, Pho Hanh opens at
around 6.30pm every day and serves customers
until late. Pho ga tron costs VND40,000 a
bowl
Food & drink
MYSTERY DINER HCMC
May Restaurant & Bar

Our undercover reviewer heads to the river end of Dong Khoi to check out a
restaurant and bar with an international feel. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
fter last months missed deadline,

my editor was in no mood to play
games. From the photos to the
communications with the owner to
my communications with Mr. Editor it was
a disaster, and we eventually left the piece
and my paycheck! dead in the water.
This time we set it up properly, he told
me. No last minute decisions of which
restaurant to review. We plan. Got it?
I nodded in muted response after all,
the blooper was my fault. I waited for the
tirade to continue. It didnt.
The place Ive got in mind has an
interesting history, he continued. I was all
ears. But lets not go there. I think its best
to do the review on what you experience
when you actually go there.
But to write a review I need some
background, I retorted. You cant let me
go in there blind.
Blind you will enter, and unless you
discover anything otherwise, blind you
will leave.
And with that statement he turned back
to his computer and waved me away.
Casual Comfort
The restaurant, or more aptly restobar in
question was May, an acronym for Me
and You. And after the escapade of the
previous month, I decided to pay two
visits. And I decided to get in there early.
My first trip was with a friend and

what struck me was the dcor the key
features here are the lightbox-lit, yellowflecked and amber-studded walls. Creating
the dull, subtle lighting that lends the
space its atmosphere, this is complemented
by a background of lounge music, red
swirly-patterned bar stools and armchairstyle seating surrounding dark-wood
coffee tables. In terms of dcor and style,
the three stories of this venue would be
at home theres something casual yet
business-like about the space, and its
very comfortable. Instead its landed in
Saigon, and if my chicken parmigiana
(VND195,000) was anything to go by,
landed with a very welcome, hearty bump.
But that was the problem, so caught up
was I in conversation that as I devoured
my parmigiana it was truly excellent
and noticed how well the red uniforms
of the waitresses blended in with the
colour scheme, I forgot to take notes or
watch for details. All I remembered was
the extensive wine list, the expensive yet
tastefully chosen selection of imported
beers and the tapas menu. So on my
second visit I went solo.
Set Vs. A la Carte

One of the difficulties and yet pleasures of
May is how extensive the menu is. There
must be almost 100 dishes alone, making
it difficult to know what to choose from.

And yet there is so much promise as you
read through page after page of options,
that you know that if your choice this time
round is good, then youll be coming back
for more.
Fortunately May also puts on a nicely
priced set lunch at VND199,000 with far
fewer options, making choosing just that
little bit easier.
Not being satisfied with just the
set, I also ordered a beef carpaccio
(VND195,000) and found myself wellrewarded for my gluttony. Served up with
crumbled blue cheese, parmesan, capers,
salad greens, a large wedge of lime on
the side and doused in olive oil, it was a
more unusual version of the light but tasty
carpaccio. Tart yet salty, the thin strips
of beef burst with the cheese-influenced
flavours. The dish went down seamlessly
the perfect starter. There was just
enough on the plate to whet the juices, but
it was not overly heavy that it filled you
up before the meal even commenced. A
great start.
From the set menu I hit the avocado
and poached egg salad starter. It arrived
bunched up in a small attractive mound
of salad with grated carrot, sliced onions
and green peppers to add to the lettuce,
avocado and egg, while the poached egg
was runny and mixed nicely with the
avocado. But the sweet salad dressing

was too sugary for my taste. I know
Vietnamese like to have sugar in their
dressings when they make a xa lach dau
dam or mixed salad, but for me, no. Still, it
was dutifully devoured.
The main course grilled chicken
stuffed with mango was a better
option. The mango sauce added a nice,
sweet touch to the savoury chicken breast.
My only quibble? The spinach rice turned
out to be spinach sticky rice. Im not a fan
of xoi, and if Id have known this, I would
have opted for an alternative. But it was
still a good dish and I almost wiped the
plate clean. Almost.
With the meal finished off by a
perfectly acceptable tiramisu, what struck
me here was that the quality of the a la
carte dishes versus the set lunch. Both a
la carte options I tried on my two visits
were excellent. My friend on my first
trip went for the steak and eggs May
Breakfast (VND220,000), which he also
complimented. And yet while it was
value for money, the set lunch didnt live
up to the promise of the other fare I had
tried.
I think that if the set lunch drew from
dishes on Mays lunch menu such as the
cottage pie (VND165,000) and the chicken
cordon bleu (VND175,000) rather than
trying to do something different, and if it
was priced slightly higher, then I think it
would work much better.
With a number of Asian specialities
on the menu together with international
comfort food such as burgers, rack of
lamb, pizza-style flatbreads and steaks,
all costing between VND200,000 and
VND500,000, this is what May should be
focusing on. Because from my two visits,
a la carte comfort food is what it does
well. In fact, it does it very well.
May is at 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6291 3686. For more information go to
mayrestaurant.com.vn
THE VERDICT
13
FOOD
11
SERVICE
14
DCOR
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
fashion
Some look to body language for deeper truths.

With some people, you dont have to look even that far.
Photos and makeup by Francis Xavier

Modelling by: Hannah Jefferys and Vu Ha Kim Vy
Nail designs done by Fame Nails (18 Pham Hong Thai, Q1, HCMC)
famenails.com
Accessories by Anupa (9 Dong Du, Q1, HCMC)
anupa.net
Ring: VND12,600,000 |
Pen Case: VND1,300,000 by Anupa
Left
Maudrey Top: US$75 |
Monloic Shorts: US$65
Right
Mary Top: US$75|
Maemily Pants: US$75
Rings:
Rose Gold: VND12,495,000
White: VND15,600,000
Blue: VND10,200,000
Green: VND15,645,000
by Anupa
Bag Hanger: VND495,000 by Anupa
fashion
insider
THE MANY FACES OF VIETNAM
The Fashion
Designer
One of the rst fashion designers to emerge out of the
new era of Vietnamese fashion, despite national acclaim,
Ha Truong remains close to her roots. Words by Hoa Le.
Photos by David Harris
ver 20 years ago, you would

never have thought that
making someone else look
beautiful could become a
way to have a career. No one would believe
that.
So says fashion designer Ha Truong.
Born in Hanoi in 1978, her career as a
fashion designer has brought her fame and
fortune. But as a child, it was not something
she would ever have dreamed about.
While in other parts of the world, names
like Coco Chanel or Yves Saint Laurent
were becoming as iconic as the products
with which they were associated, so in
wartime Hanoi, fashion designer wasnt
even a job title. As the 1970s moved into the
1980s, agriculture and heavy industry were
seen as the most effective means to shake
up the economy.
My family didnt have money, recalls
Ha, the brains behind her self-named brand
and now the newly appointed art director
for Allura. My father was 50 years older
than me. He participated in the French War,
so he was already retired when I grew up
and couldnt help me much financially.
Having no money meant no computer, no
trips to the cinema and no new clothes.
All I knew about the world came from my
television, which had limited channels and
only occasionally broadcast foreign movies,
usually musicals.
As a teenager, Has favourite pastime
was making clothes for herself and her
family out of pieces
of cloth she took
from her mothers
wardrobe. She would
also imitate the kind
of punk outfit she
saw Madonna wear
on TV. But, beyond
that, making clothes
was no more than a
hobby.
At the age of 15,
she started working
as a tutor to earn money to support her
family. She chose to major in English at
university and started teaching English
at a high school after graduation. The
turning point came soon after.
In 2002, through the contact of
my [Scottish] boyfriend of the time, I
submitted my first fashion collection
to the Italian embassy for a special
fashion week event, she recalls.
Id only made clothes for myself and later
for my boyfriend he liked [what I made].
So I was extremely happy when I was
chosen to be the only Vietnamese designer
to have a collection on the same catwalk
as many of the worlds top brands such as
Valentino and Versace.
Encouraged by the positive feedback of
the audience, Ha decided to pursue a career
in fashion. She took courses to learn how
to sew, cut and design, and in 2003 opened
her first brand Mirrormirror. In 2004 she
won the best young Vietnamese designer
award at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Awards in
Singapore. Ha then moved to Paris to study

fashion and in 2008 opened her second and
most successful brand to date, Ha Truong.
Edgy, Clean-cut, & Chic

In Has design, the two most prominent
colours are black and white. With her
designs regularly featured on the most
prestigious fashion stages in Vietnam Dep
Fashion show, Elle and F shows she has
created a bold style of edgy, chic ready-towear apparel for men and women. Often
praised for their clean-cut, minimalist
influences, the designs focus on form and
cut, rather than details or decoration.
I have [strict] standards, she says.
Everything has to be perfect, from the
stitches through to the form everything.
Has clothing has also found its way
outside of Vietnam, having been exported to
Australia, France and Singapore. Sometimes
its the Chinese neck made of leather that
creates waves; sometimes its the embroidery
on silk that gives her the success.
Conquering the Challenges

What made up for Has lack of material
values and opportunities in her childhood
was her open-minded personality, or as she
puts it, the hunger to learn new things.
This has always kept her moving forward.
Once judged negatively for hanging
out with people who were different from
what was deemed to be a normal set of
acquaintances, Ha Truong believes her choice
of friends has increased
her experience of life. I
had friends who were
motorcycle racers. I
also had friends who
were intellectuals. I
knew them as who they
are, how they treated
me. And thats how I
learnt.
When asked about
the difficulties of
working with celebrities
in Vietnam a number of other fashion
designers have been caught copying designs
in order to satisfy their customers Ha
agrees that it is sometimes very challenging.
Many celebrities are still careless and
follow a trend without really knowing what
they want, she explains. They think that
they can make the same clothes [that other
people are wearing overseas] at a cheaper
price by using local designers. For me thats
insulting. So I always reject those types of
orders. And even when theyre difficult to
reject, I always give the designs some sort
of twist to make them different and more
attractive whether its in the fabric or the
cut. Luckily, I dont receive those orders very
often.
And with that honesty, her brands continue
to grow. Her most recent spring-summer
collection builds up an image of independent,
dynamic, sporty and chic women. Perhaps
its just another reflection of herself a
mother of two, a devoted yogi and a DJ, all
in one.
I have [strict]
standards. Everything
has to be perfect,
from the stitches
through to the form
everything
travel
FAMILY TRIP
In Thailand with Holga

Julie Vola voyaged to The Land of Smiles with her Holga,
a Hong Kong-built plastic camera that looks like a toy
The Holga
or our annual family vacation, my

afternoon during low tide. From the
parents, my Holga and I went to Railay boat we mounted a tractor trailer for a
in Thailand.
bumpy ride to the peninsulas eastern
shore. Railay East isnt a beach, but a
The Two Sides of Railay
declining mangrove on the waterfront.
From Krabi we took a long-tail boat to get
Seeing garbage lying about in between the
to our destination. Although Railay isnt an mangrove roots was quite a shock, but it
island, it feels like one; its a peninsula cut
made sense. The east side is both cooler
off from the mainland by high limestone
and cheaper than its west side compatriot,
cliffs. We arrived in the middle of the
with small shops, travel agencies, some
The Holga was created in 1981 and is

a medium format film camera made in
Hong Kong that is part of the Lomography
family. It is almost entirely made of
plastic, even the lens. Its that very plastic
lens that gives the camera its default:
blur, vignetting, light leaks and other
distortions. This poor aesthetic is what
made it popular among photographers.
Its a very simple camera with only a few
settings, putting most of the control on
the type of film you use. This keeps you
from overthinking settings and allows you
instead to focus on creativity.
There are many variations of the
Holga: flash, no flash, coloured flash,
pinhole, panoramic, twin lens reflex,
35mm adapter and more.
medium-priced resorts and reggae-style bars.

Our resort was located in Railay West,
neighbour to five other high-end resorts
whose clients were made up of couples,
honeymooners and young families. At first
glance the beach was stunning; the perfect
Thailand picture postcard. Long-tail boats
lined up along the shore, the sand was white
and the sky had that perfect mix of clouds
and azure blue.
Railay West is also known as Sunset Beach,
and its true. Every night saw an amazing
sunset descend over the peninsula. As dusk
began to fall, people would gather on the
beach with their camera at the ready. My
father would ask me for advice on how to set
up his digital camera and how to compose
his shot. He would then shoot at least a
hundred photos.
On a Long-Tail Boat
After a couple of days lazing around
between the pool and the beach, we decided
to take some trips to the nearest islands. I
organised the tours with the boat captain
directly at the only small shack on the beach.
We left at 7am each day to catch up with
the tide; its early but worth it. Being on a
private tour allowed us to stay as long as we
wanted on the beaches we liked, avoid the
ones that were too crowded, and enabled
us to go to places off the beaten track for
photos.
The photos I took with my digital camera
were great, but I couldnt see myself in these
photos they were too perfect, too much
like a postcard. They lacked feeling.
Luckily I packed my Holga. Its a toy
camera with a plastic lens and without many
settings, only focus, sun or cloud aperture
and flash. By camera standards it has a lot of
defaults. But I like it that way.
There is something poetic about a Holga
and in Railay it allowed me to recreate my
private state of mind: an expressive escape
from reality. It let me create images that reflect
my thoughts, feelings and memories.
Luckily I packed my Holga. Its a toy camera with a plastic lens and
without many settings, only focus, sun or cloud aperture and flash. By
camera standards it has a lot of defaults. But I like it that way
Information
B OAT T OURS
There are tours you can do to two groups

of small uninhabited islands with beautiful
white sand beaches when the tide is low;
the Chicken and Poda Islands Tour and
the Hong Islands Tour. The best way to
go is to rent a private long-tail boat for
the day from the little shack on Railay
West Beach. That way you can negotiate
directly with the captain of the boat.
A CCOMMODATION
Budget options are mostly located in

Tonsai Beach and start from around
US$21 (VND441,000) a night; mid-range
options cost from US$50 to US$90
(VND1.05 million to VND1.9 million); luxury
goes for as much as US$700 (VND14.7
million).
E ATING
AND
D RINKING
If you want to eat outside a resort you

have a few options on Railay Wests
walking street and a bit more in Railay
East.
R OCK C LIMBING
Railay is one of the best-known climbing

areas in the world with more than 700
routes, all with amazing ocean views.
Some rock climbing operators in Railay
East and more on Tonsai offer courses to
beginners and intermediate level climbers,
with options for the experts. If you are a
hardcore climber, Tonsai Beach is the
place to go.
travel
Our distribution outlets. Look for the colour closest to you for a
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AIRLINES
travel
AIR ASIA
DALAT / AROUND HANOI / HANOI - INTERNATIONAL / HANOI MID-RANGE / HANOI BUDGET /

HCMC - INTERNATIONAL / HCMC - DELUXE / HCMC - MID-RANGE / HCMC - BUDGET / HOI
AN & DANANG / HUE & LANG CO / NHA TRANG / PHAN THIET & MUI NE / PHONG NHA / PHU
QUOC / SAPA / VUNG TAU & HO TRAM / TRAVEL SERVICES HANOI / TRAVEL SERVICES ELSEWHERE
DALAT
ANA MANDARA VILLAS
$$$$
Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063)
3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE
$$$$
12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY
$$$
Tel: 0933 446542
bhayacruises.com
Experience breathtaking
tours of the serene Halong
Bay, aboard reproduction
wooden junks. Two or three
night trips with a wide range
of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.
CUC PHUONG
$
Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh
Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006
cucphuongtourism.com
DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL

172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
Located in central Dalat,
this is the perfect place for
budget travellers. Quiet,
newly refurbished with
beautiful mountain and city
views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and
snack bar in all rooms with
a downstairs coffee shop
and computers in the lobby
for guest use.
EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES,

HALONG BAY
$$$$
Tel: (04) 3935 1888
emeraude-cruises.com
Reproductions, of 19th
century paddle steamers,
trawl around Halong Bay
in colonial style. A classic
experience, complete with,
overnight accommodations
in impeccable cabins suites.
LA FERME DU COLVERT
$$
Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh,
Tel: 02183 825662
etoile-des-mers.com
LA VIE VU LINH
$
Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen
Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743
lavievulinh.com
DALAT TRAIN VILLA

Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 381 6365
dalattrainvilla.com
Located near the Dalat Train
Station, the Dalat Train Villa
is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.
In its grounds is a 1910
train carriage which has
been renovated into a bar
and cafe. Located within 10
minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.
TRUNG CANG HOTEL
$
22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 2663
AROUND HANOI
BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER
HOTEL
$$$
KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong
Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031)
388 0888
pearlriverhotel.vn
MAI CHAU LODGE
$$$
Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh,
Tel: (0218) 386 8959
maichaulodge.com
NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY
$$
Ha Long Road, Bai Chay
Ward, Ha Long City, Quang
Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108
novotelhalong.com.vn
TAM COC GARDEN RESORT

Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu,
Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249
2118
contact@tamcocgarden.
com
tamcocgarden.com
Surrounded by rice fields
and spectacular karsts,
Tam Coc Garden is a haven
of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury.
Spacious rooms with rustic
and chic dcor, a pool with
breathtaking views, a beautiful garden, and panoramic
views over the fields and
mountains. The perfect place
to relax.
HANOI - INTERNATIONAL
CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL
$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 6270 6688
crowneplazawesthanoi.com
This premier five-star
property lies beside the My
Dinh National Stadium and
Convention Centre. Boasts
two swimming pools, a spa,
and a fitness centre in its 24
stories.
DAEWOO HOTEL
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3831 5555
www.hanoi-daewoohotel.
com
This enormous structure
offers the most modern of
amenities, and with four
restaurants and two bars,
the events staff is well
equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National
Convention Center, and a
favourite of the business
traveller, Daewoo even
boasts an outdoor driving
range. Shortly to become a
Marriot property.
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI

6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3831 3333
www.fortuna.vn
This 350-room four-star set
up in the heart of Hanois financial district has a variety
of rooms on offer, a capital
lounge and three restaurants that serve Japanese,
Chinese and international
cuisine. And like youd expect, theres a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a
separate spa and treatment
facility for men and women.
Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business
deals on rooms and spaces
to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.
HOTEL DE LOPERA
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
Resting just a step away
from the Opera House, the
hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.
The first boutique five star
in the heart of Hanoi, the
lavish, uniquely designed
107 rooms and suites con-
tain all the mod cons and

are complimented by two
restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI
WESTLAKE
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6270 8888
www.hanoi.intercontinental.
com
This stunning property built
over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.
Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable,
top-end accommodation and
all the mod-cons make up the
mix here together with the
resorts three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar,
a watering hole located on a
thoroughfare over the lake.
Great gym and health club.
JW MARRIOTT HANOI
8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu
Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833
5588
jwmarriotthanoi.com
From the expressive architecture outside to the
authentic signature JW
Marriott services inside,
this Marriott hotel in Hanoi
is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next
door to the National Convention Centre.
MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER

43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933
5688
maydeville.com
The largest four-star hotel
in Hanois Old Quarter, 110
rooms, a swimming pool, a
top floor terrace bar and a
location just a stones throw
from Hoan Kiem Lake make
this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in
the heart of the action.
MELIA HANOI
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
www.meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central
Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws
plenty of business travellers and is also a popular
venue for conferences and
wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant
restaurants, stylish bars,
fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house
guests satisfied.
MVENPICK HOTEL HANOI

83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
www.moevenpick-hanoi.
com
With its distinctive French
architecture and top end
service, Mvenpick Hotel
Hanoi is aimed squarely at
corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge
bar are available to satiate
their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range
of equipment. Massage and
sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to
rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites,
93 are non-smoking.
PULLMAN HOTEL
$$$$
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3733 0808
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and
suites, a contemporary
lobby, an excellent buffet,
and a la carte restaurant,
this Accor group property
is prestigious and close to
the Old Quarter.
www.airasia.com
AIR FRANCE
130 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3825 8583
www.airfrance.com.vn
AIR MEKONG
1st Floor, Centre Point
Building, 106 Nguyen Van
Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: (08) 3846 3999
www.airmekong.com.vn
AMERICAN AIRLINES
194 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330
www.aa.com
CATHAY PACIFIC
5th Floor, Centec Tower,
72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3
Tel: 3822 3203
www.cathaypacific.com/
vn
CHINA AIRLINES
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Tel: 3911 1591
www.china-airlines.com
JAPAN AIRLINES
3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3821 9098
www.vn.jal.com
JETSTAR PACIFIC
www.jetstar.com/vn
SHERATON
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
www.sheraton.com/hanoi
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and
tranquil courtyards, this
peaceful property features
picturesque views of West
Lake and is less than 10
minutes from downtown.
In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers
an outdoor swimming pool
and great relaxation and
fitness facilities, including a
tennis court and spa. There
are well equipped conference rooms and a newly
refurbished Executive Club
Lounge.
SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE

HANOI
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
www.sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French
colonial period is probably
still the finest in todays Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was)
anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where
the service is impeccable
and the luxurious facilities
complement the ambiance of
a bygone era. Definitely the
place to put the Comtessa up
for a night.
KOREAN AIR
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3824 2878
www.koreanair.com
LAO AIRLINES
93 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: 3822 6990
www.laoairlines.com
MALAYSIA AIRLINES
Ground Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1
Tel: 3829 2529
www.malaysiaairlines.
com
SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Saigon Tower Bulding,
Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3823 1588
www.singaporeair.com
THAI AIRWAYS
29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3822 3365
www.thaiairways.com.vn
TIGER AIRWAYS
www.tigerair.com
VIETJETAIR
www.vietjetair.com
VIETNAM AIRLINES
27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
Tel: 3832 0320
www.vietnamairlines.com
travel
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SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI

1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3823 8888
Boasting Hanois best views
of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake
and the Red River, Sofitel
Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.
The 5-star hotel features
317 luxurious, comfortable
guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view
ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.
HANOI MID-RANGE
6 ON SIXTEEN
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
www.sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to
grace Hanois Old Quarter,
the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with
handicrafts and antique.
Breakfast is included and in
the long, lounge restaurant
on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is
served up with fresh fruit
juices and Lavazza coffee.
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL
$$$
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928
6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the
Old Quarter, this little slice of
heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient
restaurant, serves the finest
in international and Vietnamese cuisine.
MAISON DHANOI HANOVA HOTEL
$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem
Lake, this glowing pearl in
the heart of Hanoi provides
tranquility with an art gallery
and piano bar.
MAY DE VILLE
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988
Set in the old French Quarter
a short walk from the Opera
House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining
contemporary architecture
with traditional Vietnamese
style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including
four suites.
HANOI BUDGET
HANOI BACKBACKERS HOSTEL
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 5372
www.hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town,
with bunk-style beds mixed
or single-sex dorms start-
ing at VND150,000, plus

a couple of double suites
from VND250,000. A place
to meet like-minded fold in
the Old Quarter.
HCMC - INTERNATIONAL
CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Reports
2006 list of the worlds top
100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular
rooftop Saigon Saigon bar,
and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.
DUXTON HOTEL
$$$
63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2999
saigon.duxtonhotels.com
Famous for its daylong
rotatingmenu buffets, the
Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym,
spa, and fine dining.
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
NEW WORLD HOTEL
$$$$
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Former guests include U.S.
presidents two Bushes,
Clinton and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event
as well as a hotel, New World
is one of the best luxury
stops in town.
PARK HYATT
$$$$$
2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in
location, everything one
would expect from the Hyatt.
The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants
have garnered an excellent
reputation, as has the landscaped pool.
PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE
$$$
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property
boasts seven dining and
entertainment outlets, a
business centre, meeting
rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.
The Equatorial also has an
on-site casino.
$$$$$
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the
site of the old Metropole,
this upscale, contemporary
property boasts 306 signature rooms combining
design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine,
a great downtown location
and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600
guests make up the mix.
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON
REX HOTEL
EQUATORIAL
$$$$$
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 7777
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex
offers: 14 instant offices,
seven meeting rooms, a
600-capacity ballroom, spa,
outdoor swimming pool, a
gym, 24-hour fine dining,
24-hours room service, and
limousine services.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON
$$$$$
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh
City, resides the Asiana with
signature dining options,
an innovative cocktail bar,
exclusive spa and health
club, together with luxury
boutique arcade.
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON
$$$$
2A4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture,
spacious rooms, and a fine
selection of fine dining, with
$$$$
3829 2185
rexhotelvietnam.com
Brimming with history the
Rexs openair fifthfloor
bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now
five-star property, boasts
designer fashion and a shopping arcade.
This distinct French architectural wonder offers

complimentary Wi-Fi, airport
pickup or drop off, a 4th floor
ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River
Restaurant.
panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest

Oktoberfest in the region.
HCMC - DELUXE
CONTINENTAL
SHERATON
$$$$$
88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of
the best locations in town,
with firstclass facilities,
an openair restaurant 23
floors above the city and
a live music venue on the
same floor.
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA
$$$$
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
This 20story building in
downtown Saigon, caters
to upscale business and
leisure travelers seeking a
classic yet contemporary
stay in Saigon.
WINDSOR PLAZA
$$$
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its
own shopping hub (including
a bank), fine dining, a sauna,
health club, and superb
$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn
This charming old hotel has
been fted in literature and
in film. In the heart of Saigon,
this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.
HOTEL MAJESTIC
$$$
3829 5517
majesticsaigon.com.vn
NORFOLK HOTEL
$$$
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique
business hotel is located
minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and
is renowned for its fabulous
steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.
NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE
$$$
167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3822 4866

novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has
a contemporary feel, an
international buffet The
Square a rooftop bar, and
a wellness centre including a
swimming pool, gym, sauna
and spa.
STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL
$$$
144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
The newly-built hotel is near
Tan Son Nhat International
Airport. With spectacular
city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming
pool, there is little reason not
to choose this shining star.
HCMC - MID-RANGE
ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$
3822 5914
kimdohotel.com
EMM HOTEL
157 Pasteur, Q3
A sleek, contemporary
three-star hotel that mixes
vintage appeal and modern
chic thanks to a subdued
palette of white and grey
around two pop colours:
azalea pink and green hot
pepper. Part of the Thien
Minh Group that includes
Josephs Hotel
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
Next to the cathedral
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the
Saigon River, a 15-minute
scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town,
Riversides complementary
shuttle services take you
right in the city centre. With
152 fully equipped serviced
apartments, the property
offers special packages for
short-term stay starting at
VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.
RIVERSIDE HOTEL
$$$$$
1819-20 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417
riversidehotelsg.com
Free wi-fi, international breakfast,

spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,
multi-shower, friendly service
www.josephshotel.com
5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
DESTINATION ZERO
AN LAM SAIGON RIVER
n Lams private residences

may only be a few short
kilometres from the nonstop rough and tumble of
central Ho Chi Minh City, but when
pulling up by boat to its tranquil
docks perched along the riverbank,
few places feel further away from
the urban jungle than does this
peaceful corner of the Saigon River.
Although now one of Saigons most
luxurious getaways, An Lam began
as a local mans best kept secret.
Nestled in emerald foliage, the site
on the Binh Duong side of the river
was originally a single hidden villa
a secluded weekend getaway for
An Lams founder, Mr. Lam, and his
family. Eventually, the villa would
become the familys permanent
residence, but eager to share the
jungle sanctuary, one by one new
villas were soon constructed. Each
was deliberately designed to pay
homage to the surrounding natural
beauty that would eventually inspire
the resorts name an for peaceful,
and lam for nature.
Seclusion and Harmony

Now home to 15 villas nestled into the
lush jungle brush, An Lam maintains
its air of secrecy and seclusion. Every
element from the warm wooden
interiors to the woven bamboo accents
is crafted in perfect harmony with
its natural surroundings. Modern
simplicity is mixed with charming
Asian motifs like the outdoor bars
glowing jewel-toned lanterns, which
dot the overhanging canopy of lush
jungle trees.
But perhaps the most beautiful
element is the location itself nestled
along the Saigon River and peering
out across the silent waters. The
soundtrack of chirping birds and the
lapping of water under the docks
couples perfectly with the gentle,
constant flow of the river.
When it comes to what makes An
Lam Saigon River so uncommonly
peaceful, maybe Hal Boyle says it best:
What makes a river so restful is that
it doesnt have any doubt it is sure
to get where its going, and it doesnt
want to go anywhere else.
Sitting on the docks at An Lam,
theres certainly nowhere else youd
rather be. Karen Hewell
Get more information at anlam.com
travel
Photos provided by An Lam
travel
PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS
THE POWER OF LINES
BY ETIENNE BOSSOT
n composition, lines play a great role.

They give direction to your photo,
create something for your eyes to
follow and lead to the subject or a
point of interest. This makes the photo
easier to look at and to understand, and
much more pleasant on the eye.
Lines are also a very efficient way to
give depth to the image by, for example,
using a road or buildings. Combining lines
with depth of field give the final image
greater depth. But there is much more
involved when applying lines to people
and portraiture photography.
Lines and Portraits

Keeping this in mind, it is interesting
in portraiture photography to combine
shapes and lines, with the power of
colours.
Warmer tones are associated with
hard and straighter lines. Cooler tones
could be associated with more round and
curved lines.
Adding Feeling
Lines will give your photo feeling as will
shapes there are direct, straight, hard
lines, and there are also round, soft and
curved lines.
Straight and direct lines will make
the image more dynamic this is used
a lot in landscape photography, as are
triangles or hard shapes.
Round and curved lines, on the
contrary, will give a softer feeling to
your photo, and will create on the
level of consciousness a more relaxed
atmosphere. Circles are shapes that we
associate with a soft and calm feeling.
A good example of harder and very

directional lines is the triangle. While it
gives a great dynamism to the photo, it
may be more suitable to action images,

something including movement.
Combining triangles with warmer colour
tones (red, orange, yellow) will increase
this dynamism and feeling excitement.
On the contrary, the portrait of a young
child with soft or tired eyes is better
matched with round and curved lines, as
well as cooler color tones (blueish).
Of course, this is only theory, and does
not have to be applied to each portrait
(and definitely cannot be applied on each
portrait). But it is interesting to keep
it in mind while criticising your own
photos. You will realise how colours and
shapes on the subconscious level provide
indication of the subjects mood.
To get in contact with Etienne, email info@

picsofasia.com or go to picsofasia.com
travel
Victoria Hotels and Buffalo
Tours.
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2
$$$
46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa
Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
THAO DIEN VILLAGE
$$
195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2222
thaodienvillage.com
A colonialstyle hotel and
spa offers fine Italian, Thai
and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view
that overlook the bank of
the Saigon River, this is truly
someplace special.
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL
$$$
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,
Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256
9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
HCMC - BUDGET
DUC VUONG HOTEL
$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 6992
ducvuonghotel.com
Free WiFi offered in every
room. Low prices, friendly
staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps
from the backpackers area.
DUNA HOTEL
$
167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel:
(08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
HONG HOA HOTEL
$
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
SINH HUONG HOTEL
$
157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
HOI AN & DANANG

AN BANG BEACH RETREAT
An Bang Beach, Hoi An
www.anbangbeachretreat.
com
CUA DAI
$
544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:
(0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$
Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu
Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 396 1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn
FURAMA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da
Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang
Resort and Spa is beachfront
with a stunning view of the
Marble Mountains. There
are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.
LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI
$$$
Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui
Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel:
(0510) 354 5105
domainedetamhai.com
LIFE RESORT HOI AN
$$$
1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An,
Tel: (0510) 391 4555
life-resorts.com
MERCURE DANANG
$$$
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379
7777
mercure-danang.com
PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the white sands
of Bac My An beach close
to both Danang and Hoi An,
the welcoming and modern
Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities
and facilities for a dynamic
escape. Perfect for a family
holiday or a romantic beach
getaway.
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888

banyantree.com/en/
lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The
Banyan Tree offers privacy
and unparalleled exclusivity
with all-pool villas reflecting
the cultural and historical
legacy of past Vietnamese
dynastic periods.
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT
LA RESIDENCE
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG
$$$$
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383
7475
laresidencehue.com
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

THE NAM HAI
$$$$
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village,
Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394
0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive
swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant
spa on a lotus pond. Each
massive room has its own
espresso machine, pre
programmed iPod and both
indoor and outdoor showers.
VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT

AND SPA
Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510)
392 7040
victoriahotels.asia
HUE & LANG CO
$
66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382
6736
hoangphuonghotel.com
NHA TRANG
EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX
SENSES SPA
$$$$
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)
352 2222
sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/
destination
2.6 hectares of private
beachside gardens and
villastyle accommodation
furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool
bar and the signature Six
Senses Spa.
$
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this
budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.
$$$$
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:
(058) 398 9666
mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG
$$$
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:
(058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with
154 guestrooms, all with
a terrace and sea view.
Complete with a pool, spa,
restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up
to 200 delegates.
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH

VAN BAY
$$$$
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372
8222
sixsenses.com/resorts/
ninh-van-bay/destination
The upmarket Tatler maga-
zine voted top hotel of 2006.

The location is stunning, on a
bay accessible only by boat.
SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL

AND SPA
$$$$
26 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058)
388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang
SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA
$$$
1214 Tran Phu, Nha Trang,
Tel: (058) 382 0999
sunrisenhatrang.com.vn
WHALE ISLAND RESORT
$$
Tel: (058) 384 0501
whaleislandresort.com
PHAN THIET & MUI NE

ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND
SPA
$$$$
8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
374 3777
allezboo.com
This resort offers exotic
Balistyle, thatched roof
honeymoon villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms,
fresh seafood, Vietnamese
cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing
and parasailing.
ANGSANA LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnams South
Central Coast, Angsana Lang
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encompasses the resorts contemporary buildings and chic
interiors.
BANYAN TREE LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,
www.cocobeach.net
paradise@cocobeach.net
Coco Beach Resort
58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, W. Ham Tien

Phan Thiet, Vietnam
+84-(0)62-3847111 / 2 / 3
travel
BLUE OCEAN RESORT
$$$$
384 7322
blueoceanresort.com.vn
life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH
$$$$
384 7111
cocobeach.net
With charming wooden
bungalows, a private beach,
a swimming pool (both with
attached bars) and a French
restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who
opened it in 1995.
MIA RESORT MUI NE
$$$
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
PRINCESS DANNAM RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh,
Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222
princessannam.com
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,
Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria
chain, the thatchedroof
bungalows and family villas
are set in exotic gardens
with an infinity swimming
pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and
jacuzzi.
PHONG NHA
EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR
$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail.
com
A hostel and street-front bar
all in one. Has a pleasant,
airy atmosphere in the bar
and restaurant area while
the 52 dorm beds four
beds to a room go for
US$8 (VND168,000) each a
night.
HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY
$$
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
phong-nha-homestay.com
PEPPER HOUSE
$
Tel: 01678 731560
pepperhouse-homestay.com
PHONG NHA FARMSTAY
$$
Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.
5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers joint
has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool
out back and views overlooking paddy fields and
mountains. Rooms start at
VND600,000 for a twin or
double, with a family room
for five costing VND1.4 million a night.
PHONG NHA LAKE RESORT
$$
Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo
Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052)
367 5999
phongnhalakehouse.com
SAIGON - PHONG NHA
$$$
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016
sgphongnhahotel@yahoo.
com.vn
THANH DAT
$
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7328
thanhdatphongnha.com
PHU QUOC
BEACH CLUB RESORT
$$
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island
guesthouse featuring a
beachside restaurant, and
includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and
tours are easily arranged.
Discount rates during rainy
season.
CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203

871946
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from
its bar restaurant, the Cat
Cat Guesthouse is paradise
at very reasonable rates.
The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log
fireplaces.
with their own pool and have

direct access to the beach.
Extras include tennis courts,
a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
SIX SENSES CON DAO
$$$
Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai
Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)
topasecolodge.com
With its panoramic views of
the surrounding mountains
and valley, Topas Ecolodge
is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and
quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains the
landscape, the fresh air and
the ethnic peoples. Guests
stay in private bungalows
with dinner served in a local
stilt house restaurant.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$
24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel:
0203 872404
topasecolodge.com
For the environmentally
conscientious, 25 individual
lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar
technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also
organises treks and bicycle
tours.
VICTORIA SAPA
$$$
Tel: 0203 871522
victoriahotels.asia
VUNG TAU & HO TRAM

BINH AN VILLAGE
$$$$
Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua
Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang,
Tel: (077) 399 5895
centarahotelsresorts.com
$$$$
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
LA VERANDA
$$
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con
Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064)
383 0939
condaoresort.vn
$$$$
Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach,
Phu Quoc, Tel: (077) 398
2988
laverandaresorts.com
CON DAO RESORT
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND

SPA
MANGO BAY
$$
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An ecofriendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.
SAPA
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
$$
$$$$
Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is
the ideal getaway from Ho
Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely
bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa
and two swimming pools.
HO TRAM SANCTUARY
$$$$
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come
REX HOTEL
$$
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
$$$$
Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao
THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP

Phuoc Thuan Commune,
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand - Ho Tram Strip
is Vietnams first large
scale integrated resort and
ultimately will include a
1,100-room five-star hotel,
a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting
space, an exclusive VIP area,
as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.
The first 541-room tower
of this development opened
in July 2013 with its casino
including 90 live tables and
614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room
tower is on track to open in
2015.
TRAVEL SERVICES HANOI

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com
www.buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at
the service of all Vietnamese
and expatriate residents
in Vietnam offering easy,
hassle-free travel around
the world and in Vietnam,
with the highest standards
of customer care. This
premium Travel Agency
has been created to help
travelers select their destinations and organize their
trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and
ensure that all journeys are
enjoyable and successful.
BTA customizes leisure and
corporate travel plans while
offering a selected range of
small group tours.
EXOTISSIMO
66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3828 2150
www.exotissimo.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel
agency with an extensive
operational track record in
the Indochina region and
beyond. Providing up-market
services, Exotissimo brings
their clients close to culture
through personalised tours.
Also find travel desks at the
Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and In-
tercontinental hotels, which

are open on weekends and
holidays.
HANDSPAN TRAVEL
78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3926 2828
www.handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers
with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular
and isolated locations in
Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable
and responsible tourism
initiatives. Also provides to
excursions to more wellworn destinations.
HG TRAVEL
47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
www.hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising
in small-group tours around
Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole
representative agent for
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities
in Africa www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines
(www.aa.com) and Turkish
Airlines (www.thy.com).
INDOCHINA LAND
61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2852
www.indochina-land.com
Indochina Land is a French
local travel agency for
expatriates and tourists
who want to see northern
Vietnam in a personal and
tailored way. Think small
knowledgeable teams of
Vietnamese and French
who share their passion for
discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on
freedom, family, health trips
and classic home stays. They
will show you around Ha Giang, too.
(04) 3719 7214

www.syrenacruises.com
If youre thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while
enjoying luxury comfort,
Syrena Cruises could be the
quencher youre looking for.
Forget drinking games and
backpackers by relaxing on
one of the two wooden boats
from the fleet. Alone, as a
couple or with a group, 34
luxurious cabins and suites
are all ready for action. All
you have to do is decide on
how long you want to holiday for.
TRAVEL SERVICES ELSEWHERE

BEENINASIA.COM
www.beeninasia.com
info@beeninasia.com
Online travel in Southeast
Asia. Offers you selection of
best hotels and great tours.
Create your own trip or we
can tailor make your itinerary.
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY

70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702;
157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi
Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827
9170
www.buffalotours.com
This premium travel agency
helps travelers select their
destinations and organize
their trips. From corporate
travel to small group tours,
explore the world or Vietnam.
EXOTISSIMO
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)
3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotissimo.com
A reliable and experienced
travel company operating
through Southeast Asia,
Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the
region, many including insights into culinary customs,
handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
www.intrepidtravel.com/
vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is
an international travel company operating in Vietnam
since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks
and small group adventures.
With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid
focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City,
Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong
Bay, Sapa and beyond to get
you up close to Vietnams
people, cuisine, history and
culture.
SYRENA CRUISES
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING

SERVICE
11th floor, 36 Bui Thi Xuan,
District 1, HCMC
Call center: 1900 5454 40
www.en.chudu24.com
info.en@chudu24.com
Chudu24.com - the locally
famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is
known for having the best
prices and reliable service.
If you are looking for great
local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com.
It has been the #1 Vietnam
hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.
travel
TRAVEL PROMOS
FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

(08) 3824 7744
flightravelco.com
Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel
insurance, to corporate
companies, family and individual travelers.
PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH
FLY VIETNAM
flyvietnam.com
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel:
0904 193308
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui
Ne, Tel: 0908 400108
mantasailing.org
TERRAVERDE
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di,
Ward 4, Tan Binh District,
Tel: (08) 3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through
the Mekong Delta, trekking
in the highlands, or lazing in
a junk on Ha Long Bay all
while making a difference in
peoples lives then this
company will suit you well.
Vous Spa in the Novotel Nha Trang
Ascott Turns 30
the-ascott.com/30years
The Ascott Limiteds luxury
serviced residences have come a
long way from their start 30 years
back and 20 years in Vietnam
and in commemoration of this
anniversary theyd like to share
in their progress. So log in, online
members, and get 30 percent off
Ascotts best rates for over 30
countries until Dec. 31, and Link
Club members, get used to 30
percent breaks off your redemption
points between now and Sep. 30.
The past was great, but it seems
Ascotts future is bright.
Novotel Danang
novotel-danang-premier.com
Lucky you, youre sticking around
for the summer. But luckily, beach
paradise is only a flight away, and
the Novotel Danang will reward
you once you arrive. On offer is a
spa-inclusive package book two
nights starting at VND2,449,000
per night and receive 30 minutes of
foot massage at In Balance Spa and
daily breakfast for two as well
as a stay-three-pay-two package,
which does what it says on the tin,

starting at only VND2,082,570 per
night. These offers work through to
the end of August, so give yourself
time to get bored before giving the
Novotel Danang a look.
Cross-country Deals
@ Victoria Hotels & Resorts
victoriahotels.asia
Victoria Hotels & Resorts is
offering promo packages on all of
its Vietnamese properties, from
the beaches of Phan Thiet to the
hills of Sapa. At Victoria Phan
Thiet Beach Resort & Spa, stay
two nights and only pay for one. If
youre the last-minute type, book
a last-minute stay at Victoria Sapa
Resort & Spa and get an extra 30
percent off. Or, if you prefer hills
to mountains, books two nights
at Victoria Nui Sam Lodge and
receive a 25 percent discount.
There are similarly generous offers
on until Sep. 30, so check the
website to find the deal for you.
La Residence, Hue
TU TRAVEL
youre not a Vietnam part-timer,

and La Residence wants to reward
you for your rainy-season/
humid-Hanoi commitment. Those
with proof of residence qualify
for a summer escape at up to
50 percent off, with cool extras
thrown in like free breakfast and
dinner, and VND500,000 spa
credits for each of you thrown in.
The special rate of VND2,940,000
net per person on a two-night
river view room package based
on dual occupancy is valid
until Sep. 20.
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho

City, Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

169A De Tham, Q1, Tel:
01222 993585
vietnamvespaadventure.
com
Vespa Adventure offers
multiday tours of southern
and coastal Vietnam on the
back of a luxury motorbike
powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead
the way.
Spa-liday
@ Novotel Nha Trang
novotel-nhatrang.com
Novotel Nha Trangs Vous Spa
wants to get you loosened up for
July with a full-body package
of body massage, facial and body
scrub for only VND1,490,000
net. And once youre feeling the
results, spring out of bed for their
early bird promo 50 percent off
any treatment from 9am to 1pm
booked one day in advance!
Do you think you should be

listed on these pages? If so,
simply email us on
listings@wordvietnam.com
and well see what we can
do. We cant promise but
well try our best
la-residence-hue.com
If youre around for summer,
Hanoi
COFFEE CUP // RECALLING HANOI // THE PROMOTIONS // TOP EATS // THE ALCHEMIST // THE
THERAPIST // MEDICAL BUFF // BOOK BUFF
PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA
hanoi
old quarter
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS
BARS & CLUBS

CHEEKY QUARTER
LATE NIGHT LOCAL

1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
01679 647254
8pm to late
Last building on the right
before Hang Buom, this
popular with the French
(and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has
the same Old Quarter vibe;
small, cosy and personal
with funky twists and an
awesome logo. Spread over
two floors with good tunes,
drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till
late. Also does tasty paninis
into the early hours.
DRAGONFLY
DANCEHALL LOUNGE
15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 4926 2177
11am to late
One of the better venues in
the Old Quarter for dancing
on the weekends. Although
crammed into a small space,
cheap drinks and a mix of
chart chits makes Dragonfly
the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident
looking to get up on the
dance floor. If you dont feel
like dancing, relax upstairs
with shisha and friends with
one of the two lounges on
the second floor. The sister
venue on Phung Hung has a
bigger menu and an earlier
opening hour (11am instead
of 6pm) but still keeps with
the shisha, pool table and
dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.
FATCAT BAR
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

0986 495211
linkhanoi.com
4pm to late
Straddling Bia Hoi Corner
and the cobblestoned end
of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a
small establishment from the
minds behind the party and
event organisers, LinkHanoi.
The bar has tables filling the
first floor and spilling onto
the sidewalk as well as a
small loft area for lounging.
Nightly cocktail specials,
reasonable bottles deals
starting at VND500,000 and
a DJ on the decks make up
the mix.
FUNKY BUDDHA
ELECTRO LOUNGE
(04) 3292 7614
8pm to late
HAIR OF THE DOG
LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE

32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
0947 893232
10am to late
HALF MAN HALF NOODLE
LATE DIVE BAR

62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3926 1943
3pm to late
IRISH WOLFHOUND
IRISH PUB
4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821
irishwolfhoundpub.com
8am to 2am
The open-air watering hole
with seating on the pavement
is a great spot to enjoy a tall
dark stout or light pilsner at
anytime, day or night. What it
lacks in gaudy decorations,
it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and
billiards on the third floor.
Has a decent food menu and
even better pizzas.
LA BOMBA LATINA
LATIN BAR
46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: 0917 245155
LE PUB
BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL
RESTOBAR
25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 2104
7am to midnight
Dark red walls and even
darker brown seating run
through the homely and
casual Le Pub, one of the few
bars in town with a regular
stream of clientele. A long
list of imported beer, Tiger
draft, a decent international
cum Vietnamese food menu,
happy hour specials and live
sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets
involved in the local community through regular events.
MAOS RED LOUNGE
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

(04) 3926 3104
MOJITO BAR
CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR

19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan
Kiem
facebook.com/mojito.bar.
lounge
Decked out in wooden pan-
elling and bare brick, this

tastefully designed watering
whole in the Old Quarter is
known for its prize-winning
bartender and excellent
cocktails
verted, colonial-era villa, the

concept of the third Joma is
the same as at its two other
cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter,
and a great selection of
sandwiches, bagels, salads,
cakes, ice-cream and tea.
smoking downstairs space

is filled with people working
and socialising. Serves as
community centre, catering
both to ravenous backpackers whove just arrived off
the night train from Sapa and
locals looking to meet up.
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
THE CART
POLITE PUB
LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3825 0959
5pm to 2am
A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest
pubs in the city, this staple
watering hole on Bao Khanh
continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi
has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals
and expats who find solace
in the nightly conversations
at the long bar, billiards and
live football matches.
ROCKSTORE
LIVE MUSIC BAR
01653 336087
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock
Cafe without the stigma and
the expensive prices. Nightly
live music or DJing events
are coupled with creative
decor, a selection of Belgian
Beer and a food menu.
SPY BAR
HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802
TEMPLE BAR
NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR

Tel: (04) 6675 7908
TET BAR
LATE-NIGHT BAR
2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 3050
THE SPOT
LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE

(04) 3935 1874
8am to midnight
CAFES
CAFE PHO CO
COFFEE SHOP WITH A VIEW

Back of 11 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8153
JOMA
INTERNATIONAL CAFE
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem
joma.biz
Housed in a two-storey con-
COFFEE/BAKERY
222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 3388
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi
in 2009. Joma contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3825 0216
7am to 8pm
MOCA CAFE
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
(04) 3825 6334
8am to 10pm
Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly
location gives Moca a large
amount of guidebook-driven
clientele. But dont let this put
you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good
WiFi and some of the best
coffee in town makes this
a great spot to while away
a couple of hours. The food
menu mixes Vietnamese fare
with sandwiches, western
and pan-Asian mains.
PUKU
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745
Open 24 hours
This spacious spot on food
street is open around the
clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along
with more eclectic Irish
nachos, cottage pies and
pan-Asian fare. Upstairs
is fit for social gatherings
and live music while the no-
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938
2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small a cozy caf hidden
on the quietest of Hanoian
streets. Serves and delivers
tasty baguettes, homemade
juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery
service is quick and reliable,
which makes this lunchtime
favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

BOO SKATESHOP
SKATESHOP
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 1147
Booskateshop.com
CONTRABAND
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9891
Launched in Hanoi in 2007,
Contraband targets young
hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look
after making them ideal for
work and travel. New styles
are introduced each month
with limited production runs,

offering a sense of exclusivity.
LATELIER
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 2419
ateliervietnam.com
The downtown store of this
well-known chic boutique.
Stocks womens wear,
leather bags, shoes and
handicrafts. Offers both
ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem.
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital has seen
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3828 6965
This shops motto Western
sizes, Vietnamese prices,
says it all. While mostly retailing womens separates
in soft cotton jersey and
linen, the store also carries a range of accessories
like embroidered canvas
totes and printed tees. Has
a good selection of unique
mens shirts.
THREE TREES
JEWELLERY
(04) 3928 8725
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang
Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
hanoi
COFFEE CUP
OZONE CAFE
m usually not one to follow in the

footsteps of hipsters, but when I do I
expect them to lead me to damn good
coffee.
Hanoians will be glad to know that the
day I was led to Ozone Cafe, the citys
newest hipster hangout on Dien Bien
Phu, I was relieved to find another space
worthy of a place on my list of top coffee
haunts.
Located directly opposite the citys
reigning hipster stronghold, otherwise
known as The Kafe, Ozone offers
four levels of comfy lounge space and
worthy iced lattes to shield you from the
sweltering summer heat.
What No Burberry?
Macbook Airs and tortoise-shell may be
overly represented here, but dont let
that put you off completely. The upper

levels have been fitted with Ikea-inspired
wooden crates that have been pieced
together to form intimate booths ideal for
working, socialising or even napping.
The atmosphere is vibrant without being
obnoxious and laid-back enough to allow
you to slip off your shoes and put your
feet up. When things cool down outside,
there are also two funky outdoor areas to
soak in (some of) the fresh air.
The industrial-chic design and postmodern prints may convince you (at least
after waking from an accidental doze) that
youve landed in Brooklyn. And thanks
to its clever design and sound-proofed
interiors, it probably wont be until you
head outside into heaving peak-hour
traffic that youll realise youre actually in
Hanoi.
The cafe offers a mix of western food

options, including a range of burgers, pizza
and pasta dishes should you choose to
dine-in, while the downstairs dining areas
are also well equipped to accommodate
entourages of any size, big or small.
The menu serves up a pretty standard
combination of blended iced drinks,
sodas and desserts that you can expect to
find in similar Western-style cafe houses
dotted around the capital. And with
coffee lounges a dime a dozen in Hanoi, it
doesnt necessarily offer anything unique.
But what it does, it does well. And is
that really such a bad thing? At the very
least, the coffee is definitely good enough
to make Hanois top baristas a little hot
under the collar. David Mann
Ozone Caf is at 21B Dien Bien Phu, Ba
Dinh
hanoi
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 2645
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital will see
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
CAFE DE PARIS
FRENCH BISTRO
12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327
cafedeparis-hanoi.com
8am to 11pm
Thanks to its original tiled
floor, cast iron backed
chairs and wall-hung black
and white photography,
there is something decidedly
charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar.
Serving up a simple menu
of snacks such as quiche
Lorraine, Paris beurre and
croque monsieur, there is
also a selection of classic
but unpretentious French
mains. Has a daily specials
board and a decent range
of pizzas.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
Tel: (04) 3993 1399
10am to 10.30pm
A slither of a joint serving
up the same fare that the
lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an
international version of the
mighty curry they even
sell pork and beef here the
menu keeps to the northern
part of the subcontinent with
masala, dopiaza, korma and
the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a
good range of breads and
tandoor-cooked kebabs.
GREEN MANGO
WESTERN / VIETNAMESE
18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9916
greenmango.vn
7.30am to 11.30pm
GREEN TANGERINE
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

(04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
10am to 11pm daily
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets
you as you walk into this
French era-built villa that
houses the main section of
this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing
mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine,
blended in with Vietnamese
ingredients and cooking
styles, the resultant fare
has had customers coming
back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids
menu is also available, as is a
wine list focusing mainly on
French wines.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926
0639
10am to midnight
LITTLE INDIA
INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE

32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 1859
littleindianhn@gmail.com
LA RESTAURANT
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 8933
8am to 10pm
The complimentary warm
bread with rosemary is
reason enough to visit this
homely spot featuring hearty
lentil and black bean soups,
along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef
tenderloin or tofu with chilli
and mushrooms. We arent
quite sure why the Miele
Guide nominated it as one of
Asias finest restaurants as
service is lackadaisical and
tables could use candles to
improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately
tasty dishes more than make
up for any quips.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
(04) 3828 9052
8am to 11pm
A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed caf
and bar with an extensive
list of reliable cuisine. Tapas
are available, as well as full
courses such as veal, and
duck with currant sauce.
Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-
floor terrace area with views

over the cathedral. Has a
second garden restaurant
on Xuan Dieu.
LITTLE HANOI
21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 8333
7.30am to 11pm
MEDITERRANEO
PAN-ITALIAN
(04) 3826 6288
10am to 11pm
This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral
serves all the traditional
Italian fare you could need
homemade mozzarella
and fresh pasta, spinach
and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
boards, soups, salads and
fish. Throw in an extensive
wine list, a traditional wood
fire oven and a balcony spot
looking over Hanois trendy
caf scene and youre onto
a winner.
MILLENIUM
PAN-FRENCH
11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10pm
Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium
restaurant is the minimal
and chic result of a Caf Des
Arts makeover. The streets
new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking
goes over two floors and
has a welcome and inviting
three-level outdoor terrace
high up amid the concrete
and cables of the Old Quarter.
NAMASTE HANOI
PAN-INDIAN
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 3935 2400
namastehanoi.com
11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10.30pm
The latest newcomer to the
Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in
dishes from both northern
and southern India using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you
between VND150,000 and
VND300,000 and everything
is there, from curries and
breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or
out with a free delivery.
OLD HANOI
GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 8337
10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm
Gordon Ramsay once filmed
a show at this restaurant in
a renovated French villa and
now the ribs carry his namesake. But its the twist on old
world favourites, think fried
snail spring rolls and min-
iature vegetarian banh xeo,

in a casually elegant setting
that make this spot near
the train tracks standout.
Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and
check the schedule for live
traditional music.
etarian pho, Ma-Po tofu

and Thai glass noodle salad,
along with some falafel and
western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will
find something to try on this
menu.
THE LOFT STOP CAF

PROVECHO
TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL

0912 223966
The successor of My Burger
My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny,
multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style,
chargrilled burgers from
around VND50,000 with a
range of additional toppings
including jalapeno peppers,
smoked bacon, mushrooms,
cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also
has a good range of Tex-Mex
fare, a number of pan-Asian
dishes and a decent delivery
service.
SOUTHGATE
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 1979
southgatehanoi.com
THE KAFE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 6245
thekafe.vn
Spacious, casual, energetic
and beautifully designed, The
KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy
the modern urban diner.
Preparing fresh food and
drinks that show respect to
natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe,
this caf-cum-restaurant is
a popular choice for Hanois
metrosexual community.
THE MOOSE AND ROO
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,
Tel:(04) 3200 1289
Contemporary Australian
and Canadian comfort food
in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.
Best known for their Scotch
egg, poutine and burgers.
Clever changing imagery on
the walls.
TAMARIND
CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN
(04) 3926 0580
5.30am to 10.30pm
Perhaps the only restaurant
in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesnt focus on
faux meat. Features a wide
range of juices and shakes
in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has
Asian favourites like veg-
FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES

11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
8am to 11pm
SPICE
CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT

(04) 3926 0580
TANDOOR
PAN-INDIAN
(04) 3824 5359
11am to 10.30pm
A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising
in Northern Indian cuisine.
Has an indoor and upstairs,
white tablecloth aircon
area with a more casual
dining and bar space out
front. Does excellent kebabs
served from an authentic
tandoor oven as well as the
full range of mainly North
Indian curries. Also has a
branch in Saigon and does
excellent set lunches.
ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAF

16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 0253
FITNESS & YOGA

STUDIO FIVE
YOGA & WELLNESS

5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04)
6263.1515
http://studio5.vn
facebook.com/yogastudio5
6am to 8pm
An international and professional Yoga Studio providing
more than 20 different yoga
styles such as: Hatha Yoga,
Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga,
Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with
infrared heater), Power Yoga
and much more, with a flexible schedule of 10 classes
per day. Bring harmony
back into your life Studio
Five is the perfect place to
reconnect your mind with
your body.
ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong
Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3923 0253
An international Yoga studio
providing classes across a
variety of levels and styles,
including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative
yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also
have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats,
books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other es-
sential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR
BACCHUS CORNER
WINE RETAILER
1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 1393
Part of the Tan Khoa chain,
the largest liquor and wine
distributor in the country,
the walls here are lined with
a decent selection of wines,
pleasantly arrayed and back
lit. Besides their selection of
new and old world wines
Helpful staff and free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 7666
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams
ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of
the greatest wines from the
best wine-growing regions
on the planet. The portfolio
mixes the best of both old
and new world wines.
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
SUPERMARKETS
BIG C SUPERMARKET
222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau
Giay
CITIMART HANOI TOWERS

49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem
CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba
Trung
FIVIMART
210 Tran Quang Khai,
Hoan Kiem
10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh
671 Hong Hoa Tham,
Ba Dinh
71 Nguyen Chi Thanh,
Dong Da
51 Xun Dieu, Tay Ho
93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
Online shopping: www.
fivimart.com.vn
HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET

36 Cat Linh, Dong Da
INTIMEX
22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan
Kiem
131-135 Hao Nam, Dong
Da
17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba
Trung
27 Huynh Thuc Khang,
Dong Da
METRO
126 Tam Trinh, Yen So,
Hoang Mai
Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue,
Tu Liem
RECALLING HANOI
PART THREE
andscape is entangled with history

and peoples lives. No matter
how young we are or what social
position we have, we all have
stories to tell.
Recalling Hanoi is my vision of Hanoi,
a tapestry weaved out of portraits,
peoples stories and the urban landscape
that hosts them.

I ask people living in the city to tell
me about a place in Hanoi that holds
memories. It can be about anything a
personal story intertwined with history;
a great event; everyday little stories that
our lives are made of. These stories, along
with the photographs of the storyteller
and the location provide depth.

Through this collection I am attempting
to create an intimate, multi-layered
portrait of this city through its collective
memory. The hope is that the audience
will connect to other peoples lives and
also to their own memories in an attempt
to understand this beautiful city.
deserted at 3am so we could drive like

maniacs really fast. By the end of the
night he gave me a ride back to Kim Lien
and dropped me by the main street, which
was just 2 alleys away from my home. My
guess is that I didnt make it because next
morning I woke up in the back room of a
candy store with a 90-year-old Vietnamese
man standing over me giving me a
glass of blackcurrant juice a cure for
hangovers. He spoke pretty good English

he had taught himself from a computer
program. He introduced me to his married
daughter on vacation from Ho Chi Minh
City and he videotaped the three of us
speaking English. For half an hour I gave
him a little English/computer lesson. He
didnt tell me what really happened, but
it seems that I fell asleep totally drunk in
front of the shop.
Bret
A Night in the Candy Store
Location: Luong Dinh Cua
In 2006, four months after my arrival
now it has been seven years I was
drinking too much and several times
a week was out until 4am. I was living
in Kim Lien (near the French Hospital)
and drinking in the Old Quarter at Half
Man Half Noodle or Barracuda (the old
Dragonfly).
My Vietnamese friend and I were
driving around on his Minsk. The city was
hanoi
BY JULIE VOLA
Hiep
The Haunted Embassy
Location: Corner of Van Bao and Van Phuc
I have been selling tra da here for more than
10 years. The abandoned building at the
corner used to be the Bulgarian Embassy,
but before that it was a cemetery. When they
built the embassy they moved the cemetery
somewhere else, but some tombs remained
because they couldnt find the families.
The Bulgarian government paid 50 years
rent upfront, which is why nobody can do
anything to this land until the lease ends.
It was said that there were sleeping
quarters in the basement of the embassy.
Every night at midnight the beds would
move, they would stand vertical no
one could see how it happened. At a
Christmas party a secretary heard a

strange noise, he tried to move and see
where it was coming from, but then he
was paralysed without any reason. The
embassy stayed in this spot for only one
year and then it moved down the street.
A few years ago two young people
climbed over the fence to look for ghosts.
Just after they left the building they were
in an accident and both died. I know this
because I saw the accident. Three years ago
a monk came to try and chase the ghosts
away, no one asked her to come, she just
knew. She talked with them and diminished
their power, but they are still here.
Ghosts are people who did bad things

in their life, or people who have regrets,
they need to finish something and they
cant move on. They bother the living.
They are probably angry because someone
disturbed their graves. I have a small altar
for offerings on the tree for good spirits
and ghosts to protect me and my small
business. I am lucky the ghosts at this
building leave me alone.
This is the third excerpt from Julie
Volas work, Recalling Hanoi. The work is
presently being serialised in Word. For more
information email juls.vola@gmail.com
hanoi
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE
SOCIETY (HITS)
hoan kiem
THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com
LESPACE
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT /

CLASSES / GROCERIES & LIQUOR
B i
Triu
Hng
Phan
nh D
Kh
Trn
Chu
Trin
h
inh Ti
n H o n g
Hng
Phng
H n g G
Hng iu
Hng
Phng
Qun
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Q u
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Hn
hi
L T
FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
6282 5555
Hoteldelopera.com
7am to 2am
La Fe Verte (or the Green
Fairy) is a metaphor for the
decadence of another age,
an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The
signature bar of the Hotel
de lOpra Hanoi where, just
as in Paris at the dawn of the
20th century, the making of an
evening drink a lavish event
of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge
atmosphere, great music and
ultra-contemporary interior
design combine to bring a
genuine sense of occasion to
after-dark in the capital.
i
Kh
CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem
facebook.com/bar84hanoi
Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable
sofa-like seating and grungy
decor related to a past make
up the mix at this venue put
together by the people behind Barbetta.
a ng
+84 BAR
Qu
WILD WEST THEME BAR

98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822
Hu
Nguy
n Du
L Vn H u
h
Hn T
uyn
MODEL CLUB
CATWALK BAR
45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung
8pm to late
PHUC TAN
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan
Kiem
RELAX BAR
HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem
ROOFTOP
SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B
Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3946 1901
8am to midnight
TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE
ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem
tadioto.com
Located close to the Opera
House, this alternative, arty
bar is garnished in red and
white on the outside, with
warm brown and tones of
blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging
Shanghai and San Francisco,
engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the
latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.
ZONE 17
BAMBOO BAR
17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem
The first bar in what will
eventually (hopefully) be a
CAF / BOULANGERIE
6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269
7.30am to 11pm
Time has been good to this
airy, bistro-style caf and
patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital,
despite its prime location
prices remain reasonable
espresso-style coffees cost
around VND40,000 and
the cakes and croissants
are moreish. Also does filled
baguettes and a larger cafcum-restaurant menu. Has a
second establishment at 13
Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
Tin
Trn
Hn
g
o
Ngu
yn
Du
17 COWBOYS
n
Tr
L Thi T
Thi
Trn
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BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
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Nguyn
Tri Ph
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Ch
Cu
D
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L Thi T
Ph
Trn
g
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o
L Dun
PARIS DELI
Nh
o
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H
n
Bi
ng
Trn
Hn
LA FE VERTE
n
Bi
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Tr
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Xu
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L
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H
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Thi
Cu G
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Trn
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L Dun
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Lon
Cu
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Hong Di
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Tel: (04) 3825 0216

7am to 8pm
n
Y
HOAN KIEM
DISTRICT
zone dedicated to bars and

restaurants. A pool table, a
square bar in the middle of
the room and a barbecue until the early hours theres
quite an atmosphere in this
pleasant watering hole.
CAFES
CIAO CAF
RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3934 1494
7am to 11pm
A stones throw from the
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
this Saigonese franchise
tries its hand with a variety
of different western dishes
at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and
a steady, young Vietnamese
crowd, the establishment is
a great place to squash a
sandwich or bowl of pasta
and people watch. Oh, and
they also do coffee, too.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,
Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
TWITTER BEANS COFFEE

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760
twitterbeanscoffee.com
CINEMAS
CINEMATHEQUE
ARTS CINEMA
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648
Not a movie theatre per se,
but a private film club that
charges a membership fee in
return for entrance to a wide
selection of movies, new and
old. The management has
an eclectic taste and shows
films from all over the world.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES

AMERICAN CLUB
EVENT SPACE
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 1850
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

Tel: (04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com
EAT
AL FRESCOS
23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
ANGELINA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
11.30am to 2.30pm and
6.30am to late (restaurant)
11am to 2am (bar)
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts of
meat to the table for patrons
to pick and choose, all for a
set price. They also offer wine
pairings, a salad bar and an a
la carte menu, with a creative
selection of fruit caipirinhas
on hand to wash it all down.
The prices arent for anyone
on a budget, but the amount
and quality of meat is more
than worth cost.
CAF LAUTREC
MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
6282 5555
6am to 10pm
Featuring both -la-carte
and buffet dining as well
as an innovative Sunday
brunch, this namesake of the
French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a
mixture of international and
Mediterranean-style fare.
Has an extensive wine list
to match the cuisine, which
is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired
environment.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
Tel: (04) 3824 7280
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contem-
porary and thoughtfully

designed space over three
floors. Already with venues
in Saigon and Bangkok, the
essence of this popular
chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay, but everything
from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to
head to El Gaucho.
JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388
alfrescogroup.com
9.30am to midnight
Then newest venture from
the team behind Jaspas
and Pepperonis is an all-day
eating and drinking lounge fit
for all occasions. It has three
floors for different vibes
lounge bar, restaurant and
boardroom but fine imported steads can be found
on each, as well as seafood
and a huge wine list. A popular venue.
JASPAS
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba
Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
6.30am to midnight
Recently refurbished, the
Australian-influenced Jaspas is known for its attentive
service, tasty food and large
portions. A place with something for everyone, it has
proved itself to be popular
with both the western and
Asian expat communities
who come back again and
again. The comprehensive
menu is a fusion of western
and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is
mainly New World. Also has
a spacious bar and lounge
area that stays open late for
all the live sport.
LA BADIANE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3942 4509
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to
10pm. Closed Sunday night.
A white-washed, colonial
era villa replete with period
wooden shutters greets you
as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.
Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or
take to the leafy covered
terrace out back with its
walls lined with art and photography from 21st century
Hanoi. The menu here mixes
modern Gallic cuisine with a
touch of Mediterranean and
Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an
extensive wine list and an
excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.
hanoi
LE BEAULIEU
THE PROMOTIONS
CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15
Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3826 6919
6am to 10am, 11.30am
to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to
10.30pm
PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH
LUNO DAUTUNNO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823
7338
11am to 11pm
This old-favourite Italian
uses traditional wood ovens
to prepare some of the citys
finest pizzas, which range
from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.
Set inside a large, thoughtful
space seasoned chefs also
make fresh pastas, soups
and cheeses the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights
make it well worth a visit, as
does the large wine list and
choice of desserts.
Daewoo Dishes Out the

Summer Deals
Hanoi Daewoo Hotel is keeping
things sizzling throughout the
month of July with hot deals on
top-notch culinary delights. Caf
Promenade invites patrons to
enjoy their delicious buffet options
including BBQ, premium meat
and seafood, and homemade ice
cream while kicking back by the
poolside, with their swim ndine
buffet promotion. Groups of three
to 20 guests are welcome to enjoy
the largest swimming pool in
Hanoi with their reservation, not to
mention the fantastic food.
Hanoi Daewoo Hotel is located at
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh. Find them
online at daewoohotel.com
NINETEEN 11
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang
3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm
PANE E VINO
Fortuna Celebrates Summer

Fortuna Hotel is celebrating the
celestial tradition of mooncake
crafting with their stunning selection
of mooncake delights, available in
the hotel lobby from Jul. 11. The
cakes will showcase the most unique
tastes of Asia, including lotus seed,
yam, green tea and red bean, and will
feature a time-honoured tradition
of mooncake making during the
summer months.
Mooncakes are priced at
Bouillabaise fisherman soup at The Press Club
VND650,000 per box with 20
fisherman soup with garlic toast,
their deals from Jul. 1 to Jul. 30 on
percent discounts on those purchased
Coq au vin marinated chicken,
grilled delicacies, as well a seafood
before Aug. Fortuna Hotel Hanoi is
and Provencal grilled lamb chops
exclusive Nha Trang lobster.
located at 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh
with thyme. With every main dish
Throughout the month of July,
Fruity Summer Treats
comes a glass of Chateau Bouteilley, enjoy special deals on all ribs, for
Hotel de LOpera invites you to
compliments of The Warehouse.
VND180,000++ per person.
enjoy the sweet tastes of summer in
The Press Club Hanoi is located
Sheraton Hanoi Hotel is located at
Hanoi with a month of their favourite at 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Get
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu
fruity indulgence lychee. Satine
more information by visiting hanoiMing Restaurants Summer
Restaurant will feature roasted
pressclub.com
Makeover
duck braised with lychee dressing,
Sheratons Tasty Month of
Ming Restaurant, the Chinese
alongside a portion of lychee sorbet.
July
culinary jewel of Sofitel Plaza
Two and three-course menus are
Sheraton Hanoi Hotel is
Hanoi, is celebrating the warmer
available at VND250,000++ and
celebrating the flavours of red,
months of summer with a new
VND350,000++ respectively.
white and blue this month, with
menu of over 30 dishes designed to
Hotel de LOpera is located at 29
exclusive deals on American
compliment the season with light,
Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
cuisine from Jul. 1 to Jul. 27 at
luscious tastes. Signature dishes on
The Press Club Celebrates
Oven Dor Restaurant. Enjoy
the new menu include sauted fish
French Flavour
delectable BBQ ribs, pork and beef
maw with caviar, double-boiled
From Jul. 21 to Jul. 27 The Press
alongside fruit pies and ice cream
black chicken with conpoy and
Club Hanoi is hosting French Food for VND620,000++ per person for
oriental lamb chop with Mongolian
week. The week-long event features lunch, and VND990,000++ per
sauce, among many others.
an exclusive a la carte menu of
person for dinner.
Ming Restaurant is located on the
much-loved recipes from the French
Try something different at
second floor of Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
countryside, including Bouillabaise Hemispheres Restaurant with
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh
PAN-ITALIAN
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
8am to 10.30pm
Just a stroll away from the
Hanoi Opera House and
Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart
of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves
up authentic Italian food
and has done for as long as
anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated,
oven fresh pizzas and large
variety of pasta and salad
dishes look forward to fine
food done well at this eatery
that has the feel of Europe.
Huge wine lists, friendly staff
and a loveable owner.
PRESS CLUB
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To,
0888
hanoi-pressclub.com
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm
to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday
lunch
Wooden flooring, paneling
and bold but subtle colours
pervade this traditional but
contemporary, fine-dining
70-seater venue close to
the Opera House. Serving
up quality cuisine for over a
decade, Press Club boasts
a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine
room, a library and a vast
selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four
excellent wine pairing menus,
put together through the aid
of the Press Clubs extensive
new and old world wine list.
Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.
hanoi
n
A n Dng V g
TAY HO
DISTRICT
g
n
g V
Tn
u C
GROCERIES & LIQUOR
Ngu
yn
Ho
ng
CITIMART
Xu
PANE E VINO WINE SHOP
WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
This Italian favourite with a
huge food menu also has a
huge for-retail wine list that
is 100 percent focused on
fine wines and liquors from
Italy. Owner Hoang has great
knowledge of Italian wine and
a passion to match, which is
sure to land you with the best
wine for any occasion.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04)
3943 7226
Ni
WORK ROOM FOUR
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

Packexim Building Tower 1,
23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15,
An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho
workrmfour@gmail.com
workrmfour.tumblr.com
A place to work. A space to
create. Somewhere to see
something new. Work Room
Four is pulling together the
threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas,
exhibitions, workshops,
artist studios, courses, contacts and events.
BARS & CLUBS

88 LOUNGE
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 8029
88group.vn
5pm to late
A wine bar with a difference,
this addition to the watering
hole scene in West Lake
mixes contemporary design,
black ceilings, subtle lighting
and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine
lists in town. Not surprisingly
it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.
WESTERN CANNED FOODS
GROCERY STORE
Tel: (04) 3934 3854
Thanh
Bi
N guyn Phong S c
ARTS
HANOI ROCK CITY
LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Thm
g
Ho
Tel: 01633 166170

hanoirockcity.com
5pm to midnight
With a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an
upstairs space dedicated to
live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the
only venue in the capital
of its kind. Has weekly live
events featuring bands both
from Vietnam and overseas
established and up and
coming. Email jimihendrix@
hanoirockcity.com for more
information or check out
their page on Facebook.
HOUSE OF SON TINH
LIQUOR LOUNGE
(04) 3718 6377
sontinh.com
8am to 11.30pm
As part of the Highway 4
group, which now has its
offices in the establishments upstairs areas, this
bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish
furnishings is famed for its
luxurious rice wine liquors
and newly created cocktail
class. Does regular events
on the first floor and also
has a creative Vietnamese
food menu based on cuisine
sold at other restaurants in
the chain.
RED RIVER TEA ROOM
LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho
Open daily from 2pm.
Ph
Qun Th
Phan
nh P
h n g
nh
VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET
22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
n
Y
INTIMEX
Th
Ho
n
HANOI GOURMET
DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3943 1009
Hanoigourmet.com
The long-running Hanoi
Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and
artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a
look at the deli and sit down
for a light snack.
oa
SUPERMARKET
27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
Ho
n
Hong Quc Vit
FIVIMART
Tm
WINE RETAILER
Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3941 2789
Daloc.vn
hi
Ng
c Long Qun
DA LOC
BIKING CAFE
so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho
kub.vn
Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub
Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole
bringing thats become a favorite of the motorbike clubs.
Does good on-the-table bia
hoi and runs biking events.
BOOKWORM TOO
u
Di
u
SUPERMARKET
Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers,
Tel: (04) 3934 2999
KUB CAFE
regulars drinking out front

on plastic stools. Notorious
for its mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh to order,
Tracys is most famous for
their draft beers, claiming
to serve the coldest draft
beer in Hanoi, and always
in a frosted mug. For those
missing their dose of North
American sports, they play
all day via satellite on two
plasmas.
BOOK SHOPS
5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza,

24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: (04) 3824 3718
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and
bright pastel colours of
Wrap n Roll are just part
of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand
which is all about spring rolls
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with
two restaurants in Hanoi
the second in Royal City.
ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES /
CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES
Qu
n
WRAP & ROLL
salads, soups, ice cream,

muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
tay ho
Lo
ng
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414
hoteldelopera.com
Lc
SATINE
Located on the lakeside lane

just below Xuan Dieu, this
warm, quiet and friendly
pub offers a selection of international and local beers,
wine, cocktails and a nice
view of West Lake. Serving
pies and pasties from The
Cart, Vietnamese food from
Dieus next door, or delivery
from nearby favorites. Nonsmoking, unpretentious,
dog-friendly.
TAY TAP
MEET-UP SPOT
100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6917
4pm to late
Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar
with two beers on tap as
well as wine, cocktails and
spirits on the shelves this
newcomer venue has a grill
menu catering to the tastes
of both East and West. For
those in search of a good
old-fashioned Sloppy Joe
or grilled cheese, youll be
glad to know the kitchen is
stocked to the ceiling with
comfort foods.
TRACYS PUB AND GRILL
SPORTS BAR/GRILL
40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel:
(04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
11am to 12am
This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the
main drag of Xuan Dieu is
perpetually crowded with
NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS

1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay
Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
CAFES
COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
7am to 10pm
Finally the newest addition
to the Hanoi coffee scene
has opened a little closer to
town than the first outlet in
Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee
Bean is a multilevel, indoor/
outdoor caf overlooking
Westlake. With its LA coffee
and office feel, when you
walk in you might just forget
that youre in Westlake.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CHAIN
Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
7am to 11pm
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
COFFEE/BAKERY
43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6071
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
LA GRACE
ART CAFE & GALLERY

8B/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: 0912 666736
lagrace.com.vn
7.15am to 10pm
Located on a peaceful
street named after the famous painter, To Ngoc Van,
La Grace is a destination
for those who appreciate
lifes pleasures: drinks,
food, arts and sometimes
live music. Clean, comfortable and friendly, the venue
has a nice selection of
juices and smoothies and a
Vietnamese-cum-Japanese
food menu put together using organic vegetables. Set
lunches cost VND150,000,
and the caf also has strong
WiFi as well as separate nonsmoking and smoking areas.
SAINT HONORE
CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3933 2355
st.honorehn@gmail.com
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this
cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in
the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk
through the door. Serving
all day long, the downstairs
space is split into the bakery
on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the
other. The homely upstairs
lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.
Simple but tasty French and
international fare is served
at meal times.
TET DCOR CAF
ART CAF & ESPRESSO BAR

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai,
Tay Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
8am to 6pm, Tuesday to
Sunday
Cloistered among the back
streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan

Dieu, TET Dcor Caf is a destination for those who appreciate
lifes pleasures: coffee, food, art
and music. Simple and unpretentious, the caf has an oldfashioned warmth and rustic
feel combined with unique and
inspiring art installations.
nary classes are offered in these

well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will
guide you through the secrets of
Vietnamese cooking in an open
air courtyard.
HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS

VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE
68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 848301
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small cozy caf and sandwich
bar hidden away in Nghi Tam
Village. Serves and delivers tasty
baguettes, homemade juices,
quiches, pies, muffins and cakes.
The delivery service is quick and
reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE

(THBC)
CAF / TAPAS BAR

44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
9am to 10pm
Tucked down an alleyway just
off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle
Collective is not just a place for
all bicycle lovers, but a caf that
also sells Spanish tapas served
up with gin & tonic, if the mood
so takes you. Organising bicycle
tours, running yoga sessions
and holding music concerts in
their upstairs cafe area, they
also sell, rent and fix bikes and
are an official supplier of TREK
and SURLY cycling equipment.
Eclectic? Not a chance!
CLOTHING
GEORGES FASHION BOUTIQUE
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6233
With new styles arriving in store
every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses,
shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported
fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from
petite to average to the generous
figure. Alterations and a madeto-measure service are available
at no extra cost.
LATELIER
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

3718 6758
ateliervietnam.com
Stocks womens wear, leather
bags, shoes and handicrafts.
This chic boutique offers both
ready-to-wear and made-to-fit
clothing.
COOKING CLASSES
HIDDEN HANOI
COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912
254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese culi-
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BETTERWORLD
GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Fair trade or bought directly
from the artisans who made
them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the
world as well as second-hand
books, DVDs and more.
LA CASA
CONTEMPORARY DESIGN
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084
lacasavietnam.com.vn
A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other
household objects, this spot
has everything from beds and
bookshelves, to tableware and
silverware. The items are all
locally made by skilled artisans
from Hanoi and the surrounding
regions.
MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development nonprofit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories.
Styles vary from traditional to
patterned and Asian-inspired.
Founded in 2001 and with
outposts in several locations
around the region, the shop
employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an income and care for their families.
CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS

DONS TAY HO
BICYCLE RENTALS
3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE

(THBC)
CYCLING COLLECTIVE
44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
Tucked down an alleyway just
off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle
Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of
TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but
also rents and fixes bicycles. To
add to the eclectic, community
spirit they also organise bicycle
tours, run yoga sessions, hold
music concerts in their upstairs
cafe area and run a great menu
of Spanish tapas served up, if
you so wish, with gin & tonic.
Quite a mix!
EAT
AL FRESCOS
3719 5322
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
DA PAOLO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai
Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317
11am to 11pm
This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to
the famed lawn chair and coconut caf on West Lake has
all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long
time former manager of Luna
DAutunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas
from VND120,000 and other
Italian delicacies. Open every
day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.
DALUVA
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
3718 5831
daluva.com
8am until late
A popular hang-out for expats
and trendy Vietnamese in the
Xuan Dieu area on West Lake.
This bar and restaurant offers
casual dining with a classy,
Middle-Eastern twist, as well as
wine, tapas, events and attractive dcor.
DONS TAY HO
CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
Monday to Friday, 10am to late.
Weekends 8am to late
This lake-facing venue with
its top floor Oyster Bar is the
work of charismatic Canadian
restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing
on comfort food done well, the
main restaurant menu includes
anything from wood-grilled rare
tuna steak with fragrant Chinese
black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such
as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with
crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range
of imported oysters and has an
extensive wine list.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and
preparation with great service
in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three
floors. Already with venues in
Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is
quality top grade meats off the
grill. Steak is the mainstay, but
everything from chicken, pork
and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting

and an extensive wine list and
thats another reason to head to
El Gaucho.
HALIA HANOI
SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY
INTERNATIONAL
3946 0121
thehalia.com
Monday Saturday 11am to
11pm. Closed on Sundays
A multi-floored venue with a bar
area and a refined dining space.
The menu includes Singaporean
specialities such as the shrimp
satay salad and the chilli crab
spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light
Asian flavours is also on offer.
Has an extensive wine list.
HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD

GRILL
CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD

Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to
10pm
The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering
both the Northern and Southern
hemispheres. Choose from Black
Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye,
Rump and Tenderloin grilled to
perfection. Prefer Seafood
no problem, Lobster, Oysters,
Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and
Crabs are all available for your
dining pleasure, as well as an
impressive array of wines by the
glass & bottle from our
IL FARO
ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN
Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 6327 1142
Hidden away in Cong Doan Hotel,
this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned by the same people
behind Mediterraneo serves up
an assortment of French, Spanish and Italian dishes in a pleasant, white-washed yet Italianinfluenced atmosphere.
INDIA PALACE
NORTH INDIAN
10B Quang An, Tay Ho
eat.vn/indiapalace
North Indian cuisine with views
over West Lake, this revival of
the India Palace of old brings the
Indian subcontinent to Hanois
most popular suburb.
J.A.F.A.
INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3758 2400
7am to 11pm
One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is
a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages
are not the cheapest, but this
is made up for by service and
ambiance. They also have a full
menu featuring familiar western
dishes such as pizza and cheese-
hanoi
TOP EATS
THBC SPANISH TAPAS BAR
want to do a naked bike ride

in Hanoi, smiles Guim Valls
Teruel.
We are eating tapas in the
downstairs area of THBC, and mouth
half full, I stop. For not the first time in
his life Guim has come out with one of
those leftfield ideas of his. Its an idea that
knowing Guim may well come to fruition
after all, this is a guy whos cycled
around the world not once but twice.
You dont actually need to be 100
percent naked, continues the Catalonian.
You can wear shorts or Y-fronts. What I
want to do is make a skin-coloured body
suit and paint on abs and muscles. Then
it will look like Im naked although Ill
actually be wearing something.
Its from another idea of his that Guims
Spanish Tapas Bar has gradually developed.
What started off as a bicycle collective
has eventually transformed itself into an
Iberian-styled caf, bar and restaurant,
albeit still with a bicycle theme. The
bicycle side of things has now moved to a
dedicated shop on West Lake, a few doors
down from Spanish compadres Chula. On
this visit Ive also ditched the bicycles and
have come for the food.
Photos by Nick Ross
Youd get away with it if you do the ride

on Middle Warp, I say.
No way. I want to do it in Hanoi.
Around the lake.
From Tortilla to Octopus

If the number of Spanish customers can act
as a barometer, then Guims transformation
has so far been a success. There have been
a few worthy attempts in the capital at
creating a tapas bar, but Spanish tapas has
never quite worked here. Until now.
For me the key to making tapas is that
Iberian staple, the Spanish tortilla or
omelette (VND30,000 for a small portion
/ VND60,000 for a large). Its one of those
oh-so-simple dishes that is surprisingly
easy to get wrong. Yet the mark of a good
kitchen is one that keeps their tortilla
moist, not overly garlicky, slightly sweet
and soft. It musnt be dry. Guims chef does
this with aplomb and served up with bread
scratched with tomatoes and olive oil (pa
amb tomaquet in Catalan), the dish ticks all
the right boxes.
Another of Guims dishes, the pulpa a la
Gallega, the Galician octopus (VND71,000
/ VND142,000), is also excellent. Served
with slices of boiled potato and with the
whole dish drizzled in olive oil, Spanish

hand-carried-into-Vietnam paprika has
been sprinkled on top together with rock
salt to give it some bite. The octopus itself
is exceptional supple, meaty and far
from chewy making this into a to-die-for
dish. With some imported rock salt rather
than the local version, it could taste even
better. I tell Guim as much and he agrees.
Yes, it may be worth seeing what he can get
brought in from Spain.
My other pick are the garlic prawns or
gambas al ajillo (VND90,000 / VND168,000).
Im not going to mince words they are
sensational. Garlicky, sweet, melt in the
mouth and yet still slightly tough, the
prawns are served up with the butter sauce
in which they are cooked.
I have a group of Germans come in here
to drink beer, says Guim. They order
dish after dish of the prawns. They love the
stuff.
As the food gets cleared away, the
conversation returns to the naked bike ride.
Guim is obsessed.
Will it actually happen? I ask.
Of course it will, he smiles. Nick Ross
THBC Spanish Tapas Bar is at 44 Lane 31,
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi
burgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic

buffets and drink specials are
also offered.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
3718 5656
8am to 11pm
KITCHEN
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE

3719 2679
hungskitchen@gmail.com
7am to 9pm
Set inside a newly renovated
house with a large courtyard,
Kitchen is a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check
out the breakfast burrito), the
creatively titled sandwiches and
the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm)
and an innovative smattering of
healthy, smoothie-style drinks.
R&R TAVERN
RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6295 8215
Now on its third location, this
watering hole still lives up to
its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter,
and of course, some quality live
rock music. Its upstairs area
is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly
shows and events, while the
downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing
touch to the friendly community
environment.
RASA SINGAPURA
SINGAPORE PERANAKAN CUISINE

185 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3715 2992
rasasingapura-hanoi.com
5pm to midnight
This Singapore Peranakan Restaurant serves up authentic,
Straits fusion fare emanating
from Singapore, Malacca and
Penang. Boasting the mouthwatering nasi lemak as its signature
dish, all the fare here is homecooked by the owner / partner
who spent five years living and
studying in Singapore. This is
tasty, home-cooked, well-priced
fare in a pleasant but tranquil
setting.
SAINT HONORE
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
3933 2355
sainthonore.com.vn
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this bakery
and French-style
bistro is best visited in the
morning when that Gallic, freshcooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as
you walk through the door. The
downstairs space is split into the
bakery on one side with a small
non-smoking dining space on the
other. The upstairs lounge area
has standard tables as well as
sofa seating. Simple French

and international fare is served
at meal times. Has additional
venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba
Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc
Thach, Dong Da
THE PIE SHOP
TAKEAWAY PIES
2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena
Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 1507
thepieshophanoi@gmail.com
Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style
savoury pies and rolls. Available
in three convenient sizes (mini,
regular and large). Enjoy them
hot as a takeaway, or frozen to
keep for later.
THE SUSHI CLUB
CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE
10A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0934
544263
thesushiclub.info
The Akataiyo Group has operated Japanese restaurants in Vietnam for over 10 years. Located
up from Dons, the latest addition
The Sushi Club combines
traditional Japanese cuisine with
modern fare, serving up sushi,
sashimi, ramen and gyoza. A
comfy ambience, this eatery is
perfect for dates, business dinners, meeting friends and family gatherings. Private rooms
available.
EXPAT SERVIES
MAID IN VIETNAM
HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES
Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 3112
maidinvietnam.com
Offering a licensed hire service
for trained domestic and office
housemaids, cooks and nannies.
Courses include health checks,
housekeeping, safety, basic 1st
Aid, courses for external maids
and household management for
Vietnamese wives of foreigners.
FITNESS & YOGA

ELITE FITNESS
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

3718 6281
elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment,
separate cardio and spinning
areas and an indoor swimming
pool with a retractable roof. The
spacious studios and natural
light make it a welcoming place
to squeeze in a work out, but be
prepared to pay. This place is top
of the range.
HANOI CLUB
COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823
8115
thehanoiclub.com
VIETCLIMB
CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel:
0914 143185
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find,
VietClimb is a French-owned,
200-meter climbing gym with
state-of-the-art courses. There
are 100 different climbing routes
within the gym that are changed
every few months. They offer
clinics, classes and childrens
events. Membership and group
rates are available, but be sure
to check out the three-month
pass.
ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923
0253
An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety
of levels and styles, including
prenatal and postnatal classes,
restorative yoga, pilates and tai
chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates
mats, books, clothes, soaps,
Himalayan products and other
essential yoga equipment.
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS
ANNAM GOURMET
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 4487
FIVIMART
SUPERMARKET
Second Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1791
KITCHEN ART
KITCHENWARE
6680 2770
kitchenart.vn
Kitchen Art is a little haven for
all foodies, cooks and bakers
to grow their love and passion
for cooking and baking. Come to
Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients
to cook like a chef, take part in
regular demonstrations and
workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying
the peaceful West Lake view.
L'S PLACE
GROCERY SHOP
3719 9911
NATURALLY VIETNAM
ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130
naturallyvietnam.com
Offers food and beverage
produced in Vietnam with full
traceability and strict food
safety controls. Meat, egg, milk,
fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit
juices, liquors, coffee, water,
ice cream. Also, every Saturday
from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the
team convert the store yard into
the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a
cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for
expats and Vietnamese.
PUNTO ITALIA
COFFEE MACHINES
6258 3510
puntoitalia.asia
Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace
or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their
own brand coffee in capsules,
ready ground or as the original
roasted mix of beans.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04)
3719 8337
THE OASIS
ITALIAN DELI
3719 1196
A great place to get all kinds of
imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads
and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of
fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a
fantastic deli and cheese case.
Free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3718 3701
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams ultimate premium wine importer,
distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest
wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The
portfolio mixes the best of both
old and new world wines.
MEDICAL & DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

3934 0666
Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic also
known for its quality emergency
services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of
services from standard GP-style
check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist
care.
ONE DENTAL CLINIC
DENTISTS
8 Quang An, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 6168
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL

CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555
westcoastinternational.com
The Westcoast International
Dental Clinic is composed of
dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental
services throughout Vietnam.
The clinic provides the highest
quality technology, comfort and
after-service care to patients.
hanoi
THE ALCHEMIST
THE CONSCIOUSNESS OF ANIMALS
was recently asked to provide healing

to animals, wild animals nonetheless!
Im not a veterinarian or a zoologist
and I doubt the horsemanship training
I did at summer camp eons ago would
serve me much now. So, why was I
asked to help with the animals? Holistic
health care is becoming more and more
mainstream, and many people do not
view it as exclusive to humans.
When I ventured into the domain of
holistic healing, the multidimensional
aspect of life was laid out before me and
I discovered its not only humans who
have access or the birthright to a spiritual
existence or a connection to the Divine.
When I was asked to work with
animals on an energetic level it didnt
take me aback, it only exemplified how
far I had shifted in terms of conventional
wisdom. Hoping to do the most I could,
I sought out the guidance of a colleague
who communicates with animals. If I
could communicate with the animals,
they could express their needs and
thereby greatly enhance my ability to
help them.
Talking to Animals
How is it possible to communicate with
animals? Volumes of compiled research
has lead scientists to conclude that,
humans are not unique in possessing
the neurological substrates that generate
consciousness.
It is known that animals from a wide
variety of species experience emotions
ranging from joy to grief, and posttraumatic stress disorder, along with
empathy, jealousy and resentment. These
characteristics describe animal sentience.
Pioneering cognitive ethologist, Marc
Bekoff, defines animal sentience as the
ability to feel, perceive, or be conscious, or
to experience subjectivity. The European
Union recognizes an animal as sentient
if it is capable of being aware of its
surroundings, its relationships with other
animals and humans, and of sensations in
its own body, including pain, hunger, heat
or cold.
Hippocrates stated, The soul is the same
in all living creatures, although the body
of each is different. If were all the same,
then we should be able to communicate. To
BY KAREN GAY
connect with animals one needs to quiet the

mind in order to relate on a deeper level.
Changing our Perceptions

Ancient and modern tribal traditions
recognised the need for humans to
remember and establish their deep
connection to all of Life and Spirit. They
did not see themselves as separate from
other beings, instead they acknowledged
the oneness of all, and this enhanced their
physical, mental and spiritual health.
We need to see animals for the sentient
beings they are and treat them with the
respect that is their birthright. Whether
they are our companions, working
animals, or used in agriculture, or for
research, we as humans all share the
responsibility to ensure the humane
treatment of animals. In so doing, we
may recognize our common bond and
thus perhaps find our way back to the
wholeness of who we are.
Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is
a holistic health practitioner practicing in
Hanoi. For information on the types of services
provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com
hanoi
Reservations recommended.
ba dinh
MING PALACE
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT /
FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

BARBETTA
ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3734 9134
ETE BAR
FRENCH LOUNGE
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 751331
10am to midnight
A favourite among those who
roam further west of the
city centre, this multi-storey
restobar has been going
strong for more than two
years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar
guarding exactly 50 different
cocktails. For many the Ete
burger is right on the mark
as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. Its always
crowded especially during the weekends. Amiable
staff, pleasant vibes.
SUMMIT LOUNGE
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3823 8888 ext. 5314
4pm to Midnight Sunday to
Wednesday, 4pm to 2am
Thursday to Saturday
BOOKSHOPS
BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi
Kh
n
CAFES
CAF GOETHE
ARTS CAF
56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 3734 7395
CONG CAPHE
hng
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 2247 0602
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CHAIN
28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh
(Next to the Flag Tower) Tel:
(04) 3823 3339
7am to 11pm
MANZI
ARTS CAF & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
A stunningly designed contemporary caf and events
space that screams out the
words modern art. Housed
in a converted colonial-era
villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows
make up the mix here. Great
cuisine, too.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES

GOETHE INSTITUT
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh
Tel: (04) 3734 2251
goethe.de/hanoi
COOKING CLASSES
HANOI COOKING CENTRE
COOKING CENTRE
(04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a
school, retail outlet and caf,
where you can find classes
on not just Vietnamese
Hng
Bi
B Tr
i u
Trn
Hn
g
o
inh T
in H o n g
Hng
Q u n
Th
n
Tn
Ho
Ho
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04)

3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
Trn
g Th
i
Khm Thin
C
u
Th
c
ng
n
h
Th
n
h
ng
La
Hu
Na
m
Giai
L iu
g
n
Gi
Trn Ph
yn
Thi
Hc
La Th
nh
Cha Lng
g
Ln
ng
Ct Lin
h
Phng
n
g
nh
h
n
gL
La
T
BOOKWORM
Ngu
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3771 6372
10am to midnight
L Thi T
Kim M
Kim M
Hong
Sn Ty
Nguyn
Tri P
o Tn
Diu
Vng
Giai
i C
n
Liu
B
i
n
g
HIGHWAY 4
n
Xu
i Cn
Phng
g
n c
L
To
n
Hng
i Cn
Ph
nh
ng
H
Vn
Cao
Phan
nh
L Dun
n g
Qun
Hong
Hoa
Th
m
Th
Kh
n
h
Ca B
c
Thanh
n
Y
Ngu
y
n
Ho
Th
Q
Lo
ng
L c
Ph
Ni
Ho
n
g
Hong Quc Vit
ing an international version

of the mighty curry they
even sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the
northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza,
korma and the more Goan
vindaloo taking centre stage.
Also has a good range of
breads and tandoor-cooked
kebabs.
n
Y
BA DINH
DISTRICT
Trn Nhn Tng
cooking, but international

cuisine, held in a beautiful
setting. They also offer culinary tours.
EAT
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts
of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all
for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar
and an a la carte menu, with
a creative selection of fruit
caipirinhas on hand to wash
it all down. The prices arent
for anyone on a budget, but
the amount and quality of
meat is more than worth
cost.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3716 2959
10am to 10.30pm
Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history
that screams empathy make
this eatery one of the most
popular Indians in town. Sell-
HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT

SONG THU
(04) 3942 4448
hoasuaschool.com
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
MATCHBOX
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3734 3098
11am to 11pm
MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE
PAN-CHINESE
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
Elegant and luxurious, May
Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.
Showcasing a selection of
authentic Chinese culinary
delights and Yum Cha at its
finest, with seven private
dining rooms this is a place
to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim
sum menus and set menus.
PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
A fine dining destination at
the Sofitel Plaza serving
Cantonese and pan-Chinese
cuisine in a sleek modern
setting with private dining
rooms. With more than 80
dim sum selections available
along with Chinese entrees,
Mings is an ideal eatery for
those hungry for higher end
Chinese fare.
THE BISTRO
FRENCH FLAIR
2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3726 4782
thebistro.com.vn
7.30am to 9pm
A modern eatery offering
western cuisine with shades
of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink
and food deals and a warm
indoor atmosphere you
know, just how the French
do it.
FITNESS & YOGA

N SHAPE FITNESS
MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi
Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
MEDICAL & DENTAL

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE
MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
On the little street directly
below Kim Ma, with all sorts
of specialists including OB/
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT.
A Medium-sized practice
with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they
are used to treating expats.
Also a 24-hour emergency
service.

simply email us on
well try our best
hanoi
THE THERAPIST
WORKING IT OUT
This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health
counsellor, talks about the need to be assertive in the workplace
Dear Douglas,
I have been living in Vietnam for about
eight months now, working for an
international organisation I wont name. I
am in a mid-level position, not unlike the
work I have done for the past 12 years. I
am going through an experience I have
never had before and would like to get
some perspective. I can no longer talk to
my husband or teenage children about
this. They are tired of hearing it.
I think the problem is my boss. He is so
demanding and condescending that I am
completely intimidated by him. Last week
he was upset over a mistake I made and
said, I wonder if you are just stupid.
I have been telling myself that the
mistakes he points out are right and that
I need to do better and work harder to
make him happy. But now I am asking
myself if he really should treat me, and
others, like that. I am wondering if,
maybe, I need to do something differently
than to try to comply. I am constantly
preoccupied with worries about the
details of my job. I am sleeping poorly
and not much fun for my husband and
kids. I could never quit, but cant imagine
living like this for another year of my
contract.
Bruised and Confused
Dear B and C,
I am sorry to hear what you are going
through, and yes, it is time to get some
perspective about what is happening and
what you might do about it.
Because managerial models are often
hierarchical, we often believe that we
should tolerate behaviour that is hurtful
from someone who is above us in the
pecking order. His behaviour sounds
abusive to me and I will tell you why.
When someone attacks you as a person
saying you are stupid they have crossed
an important line. They are undermining
your confidence and actually hindering
your ability to do the tasks that define
your work. The fact you are upset by
this, not sleeping and feeling worried,
while accepting responsibility to improve
yourself, suggests to me that he is not
being respectful and supportive. It appears
he is caught up in a desire for power and
control, at your expense.
Yes, you need to gain perspective that
allows you to feel more empowered and
to find a way to assert your thoughts and
feelings to him about how his behaviour is
affecting you.
You, we all have the right to let someone
know if their behaviour hurts, irritates
or upsets us. Your boss needs some
thoughtful, constructive criticism that will

help you restore your confidence and to
improve your effectiveness at work. A few
sessions with a therapist might help you to
find a way to communicate your thoughts
and to help your boss see that being a
bully is really counterproductive.
Sometimes we respond to a threat
with passivity because we believe to
express our feelings means we are weak,
or because we feel weak in the face of
someone who uses their position and
tactics to create fear. We accept personal
(destructive) criticism because the other
person was right and therefore we have
to accept what they are saying about us.
Passivity very often leads to the lowering
of self-esteem and confidence, and can
therefore diminish the strength we need to
stand up for ourselves.
I encourage you to read up on the topic
of assertiveness, to help yourself find a
way to stop the dynamic that is doing you
harm in the workplace. You do not deserve
the treatment you are getting.
Be well,
Douglas
Do you have a question you would like
Douglass help with? You can email him at
douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details
will not be printed
hanoi
Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
elsewhere
A DONG PHOTO CO
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION
RECREATION
KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL
BARS & CLUBS

CAMA ATK
MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 01262 054970
Wednesday to Saturday,
6pm to midnight
With well-poured drinks, a
foosball table, no smoking
and a midnight closing time,
CAMA ATK knows exactly
what it wants to be and
thats refreshing. The space
is a part time venue for
smaller acts and DJs. The
venue is hip, comfortable
and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable
place to pull up a stool and
take pulls in a relaxed haven.
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS
CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088
VUVUZELA
MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba
Trung
CAF 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342
7.30am to 9.30pm
FRENCH GRILL
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc
Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04)
3833 5588
facebook.com/frenchgrill
Every day 6pm to 11pm
With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in
wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy
restaurant offers guests
a service experience with
crafted food difficult to find
in the capital.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3796 2647
10am to midnight
CAFES
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai
Ba Trung
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HAM HANH
ARTSY CAFE
170 Doi Can, Dong Da
The physical representation of arts, film and music
collective, The Onion Cellar,
this cafe with multiple areas
is as left field as the people
who created it.
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7.00am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
KY Y
JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386
11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to
10.30pm, closed Sunday
SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn
11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to

9.15pm
Situated in an art-deco villa
that was once owned by
a Vietnamese mandarin,
this establishment is now
owned and run by perhaps
the most famous French chef
in the country. With modestly
priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on
the dishes, which primarily
come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up
market establishment lures
in its high class customers
with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.
rant, bar and lounge blends

the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like
profiteroles with green tea
and caf fillings, a private
chefs table with a kitchen
view, and an extensive wine
list combined with modern
formal styling bring a unique
experience to Hanoi.
WILD LOTUS
CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE

55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204
potsnpans.vn
11.30am to late
Brought to you by a group of
former disadvantaged youth
from Hanois own KOTO, this
unique fine dining restau-
ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK
ALPHA LAPTOP
95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 4418
FUONG MAY ANH

5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3213 1568
NGUYEN CAU
ICE SKATING
Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen
Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936
469799
royalcity.com.vn
1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
X-FACTORY LASER TAG
HI-TECH USA
LASER TAG
77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai
Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106
x-factory-vn.com
DK COMPUTER
29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel:
3772 4772

Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261
PICO PLAZA
Kiem
MEDICAL & DENTAL

POTS N PANS
SWIMMING POOL
Landmark 72 Tower, Pham
Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)
3772 3801
landmark72.com
128 Hang Trong, Hoan

Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732
FRENCH HOSPITAL
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

simply email us on
well try our best
PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER
CARE AND IT SERVICES
No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983
011081
VIETSAD
34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 8771
SWIMMING POOLS
ARMY HOTEL
33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896
FOUR SEASONS
14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong
Da. Tel: 3537 6250
HANOI CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8115
www.hanoi-club.com
HORISON FITNESS CENTER

40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3733 0808
MELIA HOTEL
Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343
OLYMPIA
4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049
SAO MAI
10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 3161
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS

CENTER
1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8888
THAN NHAN
EAT
ASAHI SUSHI
ELECTRONICS
LA VERTICALE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3944 6317
verticale-hanoi.com
Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung,

(Inside the park)
THANG LOI HOTEL

200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
hanoi
han
noi
MEDICAL BUFF
STAYING HEALTHY IN THE SUMMER HEAT
ith the thermometer at a

Hanoi high, and humidity
rising, we all need to remind
ourselves how to stay healthy
in the summer heat. The danger for some
is heat exhaustion, which is a condition
whose symptoms may include weakness,
headache, dizziness, muscle cramps,
nausea or vomiting and rapid heart
beat. All of this as a result of your body
overheating.
Causes of heat exhaustion include
exposure to high temperatures, high
humidity and strenuous physical activity
(even golfing!). Without prompt treatment
it may become a life-threatening condition.
In hot weather, your body cools itself
mainly by sweating. Evaporation of sweat
lowers body temperature. However, when
you exercise strenuously especially in hot,
humid weather, your body is less able to
cool itself efficiently. If you suspect a heatrelated illness, stop exercising and get out
of the heat.
Treatment
In most cases, you can treat heat exhaustion
BY DR BRIAN MCNAULL
pressfoto.com
yourself by doing the following:

Rest in a cool place. Get to an airconditioned building or at least, find a
shady spot. Rest on your back with your
legs elevated higher than your heart level.
Drink cool fluids. Stick to water or sports
drinks (Gatorade). These drinks can replace
the sodium, chloride and potassium you
lose through sweating. Dont drink any
beverages that have alcohol or caffeine
these can promote fluid loss. Your bodys
ability to sweat and cool down depends
on adequate rehydration. Drink plenty of
water while youre working out, even if you
dont feel thirsty.
Apply cool water to your skin. If possible,
take a cool shower, sponge down or soak in
a cool bath.
Loosen clothing. Remove any tight
unnecessary clothing.
Contact us at FMP if your signs or
symptoms worsen, or if they dont improve
within 30 minutes.
Prevention
Wear loose-fitting, lightweight, light-coloured
clothing. Dark or tight clothing holds in heat
and doesnt let your body cool properly

because it inhibits sweat evaporation.
Lightweight, loose-fitting clothing promotes
sweat evaporation and cooling by letting
more air pass over your body.
Avoid the midday sun. Wear a lightweight,
wide-brimmed hat. Use an umbrella to
protect yourself from the sun. Apply
sunscreen to exposed skin. Exercise in the
morning or evening when its likely to be
cooler outdoors rather than the middle
of the day.
Drink plenty of fluids. Staying hydrated
will help your body sweat and maintain a
normal body temperature. Dont wait until
you feel thirsty.
Slow and easy. If youre used to exercising
indoors or in cooler weather, take it easy
at first. As your body adapts to the heat,
gradually increase the length and intensity
of your workouts. If you have a chronic
medical condition or take medication, ask
your doctor if you need to take additional
precautions.
Dr WB McNaull is the medical director at
Family Medical Practice 298I Kim Ma, Ba
Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3843 0748
hanoi
business
BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS /

MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
BUSINESS GROUPS
CORPORATE SERVICES
ICHAM
ENDO
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1

Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2229
icham.org
The Chamber has the main
purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and
to assist economic agents,
as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic
relations and cooperation
among entrepreneurs of
the various countries. The
Chamber will not engage in
commercial activities with
the aim of producing profits.
79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:

(04) 3783 2085
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2229
ccifv.org
A business group with over
240 members that supports the French business
community in Vietnam by
listening to their members
needs and expectations. Also
promotes Vietnam to French
companies and helps them in
developing their businesses
here.
EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
A confederate organisation
with strong ties to national
business associations in its
member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support
for the business interests of
European Union members in
Vietnam.
INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD
MARKET RESEARCH
xavier@indochinaresearch.
com
indochinaresearch.com
Active in Vietnam for more
than 20 years, Indochina
Research has the capacity to
run large research projects
in the country, for commercial and social purposes.
SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM

Business Center, Ground
Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B
Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: (04)
4772 0833
sbav-hanoi.org
INSURANCE
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel
Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3936 5370
Emergency: 0903 732365
insuranceinvietnam.com
Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal
lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has
been operational in Vietnam
since 1994 and offers free
advice and comparative
quotes.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
BRITISH VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BVIS)
H3-H4, Hoa Lan, Vincom
Village, Long Bien, Tel: (04)
3946 0435
bvisvietnam.com
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
International brand, Concordia, has highly performing
schools in both Hong Kong
and Shanghai at the top tier
of the educational system.
All instructors and teachers
are native English speakers
and admission applications
are accepted throughout
the year.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available for
students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is
one of the few private, international education options
in the capital. The institution
offers Cambridge IGCSE and
IB Diploma for students at
the secondary level. Located
near the Japanese Embassy.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF
VIETNAM
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai
Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183
www.isvietnam.org
The International School of
Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to
Grade 12 school serving the
international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts
students of any nationality
aged 3 and up. ISV offers
an international education
experience. Highly qualified
and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century
campus with the latest in
educational technology
plus excellent resources
for learning. Class sizes are
small.
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN
Unit 9 10, Shophouse
CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743
0360
3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung,
7243
C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri
New Urban, Tu Liem District,
Tel: +84 4 3794 0209
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with
a foreign teacher leading the
class with the assistance of a
Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student
ratio. KinderWorld provides
pre school education for
children from 18 months to
below 6 years.
QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF

HANOI
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
hanoi.qsi.org
With nearly four decades of
experience in international
education, QSI International
School of Hanoi is next in the
long line of quality schools
that have been established
by the Quality Schools International. The institution
specialises in instructing
pre-school and lower elementary age students.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (SIS)
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic
Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block
C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel:
3795 1036
www,kinderworld.net/sis
SIS provides international
education for students from

Primary up to University
Foundation Programme. A
strong curriculum combines
the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and
Vietnamese curricula, all
taught by qualified teachers.
Runs various co-curricula
activities and prepares
students for internationally
recognised qualifications:
iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE &
AS/A Level, GAC
rmit.edu.vn
A leading international provider of skills training and
professional staff development, RMIT offers both short
and long-term courses,
customised courses, and
can provide for either on or
off-campus clients. Known
for its Business MBA which
is open to both Vietnamese
and overseas students.
UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (UNIS)
CIMIGO
Ciputra International Village,

Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551
unishanoi.org
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
APOLLO
67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3943 2051
Apollo.edu.vn
Established in 1994, Apollo
offers high-quality and costeffective English language
classes including general
English, English for teens,
English for business communication and a pronunciation
clinic. One of the countrys
leading language centres.
BRITISH COUNCIL
20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3728 1922
britishcouncil.org
The cultural arm of the British governments presence
in Vietnam, the BC offers a
variety of English language
courses business writing, corporate training and
general English in a large
learning centre close to West
Lake.
LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM

62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3927 3399
languagelink.edu.vn
With four schools around
Hanoi, Language Link runs
international English language courses endorsed by
Cambridge University. One of
the top language centres in
the capital.
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
MARKET RESEARCH
142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3518 6696
vietnam@cimigo.com
cimigolive.com
MARKET RESEARCH
com
RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS

ALLIED PICKFORDS
Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan
Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The international home
moving company helps
make the burden of moving
a lot easier. As the largest
home moving company in
the world, Allied Pickfords
moves over 1,000 families
in over 175 countries every
day. Available with a full
range of services domestic moves, office moves and
storage whether you are
moving within Vietnam or
across the world.
ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO

Inland Customs Deport Area
(ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh,
Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882
asiantigergroup.com
Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of
moving households without
disruption ti family life. They
also offer pre-move advice
regarding customs and
shipping.
G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES

HKC Building, Suite 701, 285
Doi Can, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3762 3805
ghmsglobal.com
RMIT
Hanoi Resco Building, 521
Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3726 1460
JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS

6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is currently a leader in
the field. Has offices in both

Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

Suite 821, Vietnam Trade
Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong,
0805
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving,
pet transportation, relocation services including home
search, orientation, cultural
training, immigration services and records management. For more information
email info@santaferelo.
com.vn.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
ATLANTA RESIDENCES
49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 0912 239085
atlanta.com.vn
Atlanta Residences fully
serviced apartments have
been created to provide a
space where you can feel
at home. Within walking
distance from Hanois Opera
House and Hoan Kiem Lake,
this building offers a panel of
51 spacious apartments for
you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer
the luxury of a hotel mixed
with the peaceful comfort
and privacy of your home,
under one roof of course.
FRASER SUITES HANOI

(04) 3719 8877
Located in the West Lake
area, Fraser Suites Hanoi
consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four
bedrooms, which meet any
lifestyle. With a calming and
warm interior feel, each
apartment features all the
latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides
peace of mind.
SEDONA SUITES
No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 0888
sedonahotels.com.sg
SOMERSET GRAND HANOI

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3934 2342
somerset.com
Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive
facilities. 185 fully furnished
apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central
location.
BOOK BUFF
NOVELS FOR KIDS
This month Bookworms Truong takes a look at some of

the best childrens novels around
t Bookworm we often get asked

about the best fiction books to
buy children and young adults,
so we decided to look around the
web and find a site that gave a compilation
that was unbiased as to country of origin.
The best of the best is The Ultimate List
(booktrust.org/news-and-blogs/news/222). To
make it easy the books are listed in age
groups: 2 to 5; 6 to 8; 9 to 11; and 12 to 14
and beyond. Better still, instead of being a
dry old list, the books are displayed with
recent covers to make searching in kids
bookshops somewhat easier.
Another request we get is from
customers who want to get a home library
up and running. In this digital age where
a large proportion of readers download
books onto kindles, actual book home
libraries are becoming a thing of the past
and bookshelves a non-event in many
houses.
We asked some regular customers,
readers of quality fiction, about their
experiences with home libraries, and a
lot came to a consensus that the books on
their parents shelves had often influenced
their adolescent reading choices
particularly on days when rain, illness, or
boredom set in, and they had taken refuge
in the stories they found there.
So we looked around for compilations
of the 100 best books of all time to assist
these library builders and decided that
the list put out by the Guardian in 2003
(theguardian.com/books/2003/oct/12/features.
fiction) was about the best around, mainly
because a proportion of the books are

novels that every intelligent adolescent
and young adult should be exposed to in
print form print as opposed to movie
interpretation.
The Top 100

For the curious heres a list of these and
their placement on the top 100 list.
Daniel Defoes Robinson Crusoe and
his adventures on his castaway island
including the famous meeting with Man
Friday comes in at number three, with
Gullivers Travels by Jonathan Swift at
number four. The part about Gulliver
being tormented by the Lilliputians
is my favourite section of the book,
although I used to get a bit bewildered in
Brobdingnag.
In the teens, number 14, is Alexander
Dumas account of the escape of The Count
of Monte Christo from the dungeons of
Chateau Dif, an island near Marseille.
Dickens David Copperfield is at 16 and
has some of the best named characters in
literature with a happy ending to boot.
The twenties has Alices Adventures in
Wonderland by Lewis Carroll at 24 and
Louisa May Alcotts moving Little Women
is at 25. Although not on the list Id be
tempted to add Geraldine Brooks 2006
Pulitzer Prize retelling of Alcotts novel
to the library. Told from the fathers
viewpoint, March is a moving American
Civil War, anti-slavery read.
Mark Twains Huckleberry Finn and
his Mississippi adventures with the
un-runaway slave, Jim, comes in at 31 and

Jack Londons famous Arctic dog book, Call
of the Wild, is at 38. At 40 are the adventures
of the toffee-nosed Toad of Toad Hall and
his animal minders and their Edwardian
countryside ramble through The Wind in
the Willows by Kenneth Graham. The World
War One thriller that once kept young male
readers up at nights in a vice-like grip, The
Thirty-Nine Steps by John Buchan, gets a
nod at 44.
Seven more novels round off the list.
Salingers adolescent Holden Caulfield
who was riddled with angst and was the
protagonist of Catcher in the Rye stars at
61. E B Whites Charlotte's Web featuring a
pig and a spider spin into 63. Roald Dahls
illustrated book about Sophie and her
giant kidnapper, the BFG, is 88th.
Just scraping in at 98 is Phillip
Pullmans Northern Lights, which was
named the Carnegie of Carnegies in 2007,
thus, according to Americans, the best
English language kids book ever.
By the time they turn 18 I think that
most young people should also be
acquainted with Tolkiens Lord of the Rings
(64), Goldings Lord of the Flies (66) and
Harper Lees To Kill a Mockingbird (73).
For more information on Bookworm go to
bookwormhanoi.com. Besides their original
store on Chau Long, Bookworm have a second,
smaller shop in Nghi Tam Village in the West
Lake area. Located behind the Sheraton and
in the same alley as VilaTom Coffee, it can be
found at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam,
Tay Ho
Ho Chi Minh City
BUSINESS BUFF // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS // NON-FAMOUS PLACES //
A WORLD OF GOOD // FOOD PROMOS // STUDENT EYE
PHOTO BY FRANCIS XAVIER
HCMC
business
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES /
EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE /
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS /
RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING COWAN STRATEGIC BRAND PHIBIOUS
DESIGN
GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS

4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon
Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 0220
globaleye.com
PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS
Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796
pwc.com
SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES
6th Floor, Me Linh Point

Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
0938 220 255
vivianwcooper@gmail.com
TMF GROUP
Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon

Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910
2262
Tmg-group.com
ADVERTISING & MKTG

BBDO VIETNAM
74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 6662
bbdoasia.com
16th Floor, Bitexco Office

Tower, 1925 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064
cowandesign.com
DENTSU VIETNAM
AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005
Dentsu.com.vn
GREY GROUP
404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)
3929 1450
grey.com/vietnam
INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA
Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3740 6388
industrialdesignasia.com
MARKETEERS VIETNAM
FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh

Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933
3493
marketeersvietnam.com
OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower,
7274, Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821
9529
ogilvy.com
7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia

Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933
3377
phibious.com
An independent, creative
led communications company helps brands connect
and grow across Southeast
Asia. Clients include The
CocaCola Company, Asia
Pacific Breweries, Piaggio
and UPI.
PURPLE ASIA
9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050
purpleasia.com
RED | BRAND BUILDERS
Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45

Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820
0169
red.vn
Long-established branding
consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team
creates and shapes unique
marketing strategies that
add impact to international
and local brands from Viet-
nam to Australia.
RIVER ORCHID
10th Floor HDTC Building,
36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 2538
riverorchid.com
SAATCHI & SAATCHI

26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08)
3824 1207
saatchi.com
Ranked among the top 100
global advertising agencies,
S&S has worked with over
half of the 50 bestknown
brands in the world, providing advertisement planning,
direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic
design.
TBWA\VIETNAM
4th Floor, Saigon Finance
Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315
tbwa.com.vn
BUSINESS CONSULTING
BDG VIETNAM
11th Floor, Capital Place, 6
Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 7858
Bdg-vietnam.com
CONCETTI
33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3911 1481
Concetti.vn
GRANT THORNTON
ROUSE
6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58
Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 6770
iprights.com
STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3911 0965
starcorpvn.com
STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:
0904 410884
28th Floor, Saigon Trade

Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100
Gt.com.vn
TRACTUS ASIA LTD
INSPIRED IMAGE
XAGE CONSULTANCY
Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu

Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
0916 352573
Inspiredimage.co.uk
PRISM INFORMATION
TECHNOLOGY SERVICES
4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 7305 0905
prism.com.vn
164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel:

(08) 6291 2205
tractus-asia.com
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen

Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
BUSINESS GROUPS
AMCHAM
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
HCMC
CINEMAS
Showcasing the latest
Hollywood blockbusters
and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as
Megastar Media, Lotte
and Galaxy Cinema offer
the most up-to-date and
modern cinema-going
experiences in Saigon.
For those partial to more
esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and
Idecaf carry little known
Vietnamese and European
efforts.
CINEBOX
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10
Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
LOTTE CINEMA
13th Floor, Diamond Plaza,
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 38227897
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469
Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7
Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com
GALAXY CINEMA
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Tel: (08) 3920 6688
116 Nguyen Du, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 5235
246 Nguyen Hong Dao,
Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1
Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn
MEGASTAR CINEMA
Level 5, Crescent Mall,
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My
Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5412 2222
Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A
Truong Son, Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 6297 1981
Level 5, Parkson Paragon,
3 Nguyen Luong Bang,
Phu My Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5416 0088
megastar.vn
amchamvietnam.com
An independent association
of American and international businesses, the objective
of the American Chamber of
Commerce in Vietnam is to
promote trade and investment between the United
States and Vietnam.
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

2nd Floor, Eximland Building,
179EF Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
auschamvn.org
A licensed foreign business group established to
represent and promote the
interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam,
AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions,
governmental relations
meetings and charity events.
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF

VIETNAM
3829 8430
bbgv.org
CANCHAM
Room 305, New World Hotel,
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the
Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business
associates together and to
facilitate discussion forums
about business in Vietnam.
NORDCHAM
17th Floor, Petroland Tower,
12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08)
5416 0922
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP

VIETNAM
40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
pbgvn.com
SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy
Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6996
swissvietnam.com
CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES

AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD
14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364
ambrij.com
ENDO
406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh,
Tel: (08) 6292 2045
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.
venues to make any kind of

event a success.
COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM
EXPAT SERVICES
Bitexco Office Building, 7th

Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665
colliersmn.com/vietnam
CHUMS HOUSE
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

3920 7237
HAPPY HOUSE
International Plaza Building,

Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu
Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553
RESIDENT VIETNAM
CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701,

Q1, Tel: 01659 419916
Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
HOUSING & REAL ESTATE

CBRE
12th Floor, Me Linh Point
Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 6125
cbre.com
EVENT MANAGEMENT
CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS
Tel: 0906 761190
centerpiece-vn.com
info@centerpiece-vn.com
Centerpiece is an independent event planning company
run by expatriates that can
plan any event from private
parties, to corporate events
to weddings.
EVECOO
Tel: 0988 297990
evecoo.vn
GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6048
galaroyale.com.vn
ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD

268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan
Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880
THE CATERERS
46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel:
(08) 3812 6901
thecaterersvietnam.com.vn
Offers everything from canaps and cocktails, buffets
and set menus to barbeques
and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event
management and exclusive
CREATION
JONES LANG LASALLE

26th Foor, Saigon Trade
Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968
joneslanglasalle.com.vn
Jones Lang LaSalle
(NYSE:JLL) is a professional
services and investment
management firm offering specialized real estate
services to clients seeking
increased value by owning,
occupying and investing in
real estate. As a truly global
firm, they work and collaborate closely with their
colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to
bring best-in-class services,
people, and systems to their
clients in Vietnam.
Their offices in Ho Chi Minh
City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant
Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory,
Research and Consulting,
Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency,
Industrial Agency, Project
and Development Services,
Property Asset Management
Services, Hotel Investment
and Consultancy Services,
Integrated Facilities Management.
Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom

Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 7968
cushmanwakefield.vn
EASY SAIGON
Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is
a useful real estate website
helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.
Enquiries via their website
are welcome.
KNIGHT FRANK
Suite A, level 7, VTP Office
Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6777
knightfrank.com.vn
Founded in 1896, Knight
Frank has grown to become
the worlds largest privately
owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial,
residential and residential
development services.
NAMHOUSE CORPORATION
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental
properties, constructions
and interior decoration,
especially in District 2. Supports professional services
and aftersales.
SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor,
81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 9205
savills.com.vn
Savills Vietnam is a leading
property service provider
in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory

services, residential sales,
commercial leasing, asset
management, retail advisory, valuation, investment
advisory and other services.
SNAP
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Caf in District 2, Snap offers a web
based real estate search
service with information on
rental properties all around
the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse
to wading into the internet
depths for their needs.
SOTHEBYS INTERNATIONAL
REALTY
Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 2000
sothebysrealty.com.vn
THE NEST
369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc
Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901
thenest-vietnam.com
Wellknown property
search and real estate
agency with a useful website
listing properties available
for rent and sale, orientated
towards expats. Website is in
English, French and Spanish.
INSURANCE
BAOVIET INSURANCE
49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661
baoviet.com.vn
IF CONSULTING
IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A
Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 7362
insuranceinvietnam.com
Independent advisors that
represent top reputable
medical insurers provide
you with the best suitable
medical cover for individual,
family or company needs.
HCMC
BUSINESS BUFF
WORLD CUP DOLLARS
he World Cup is almost over and

as always it has been a fascinating
spectacle watching some of the
highest paid athletes in the world
compete for their countries glory.
This years tournament has been the
most expensive in history, costing Brazil
over US$16 billion (VND336 trillion), far
surpassing what has spent in the preceding
tournaments the highest previous cost was
US$6 billion (VND126 trillion) in Germany.
What is always interesting to me in all
sporting competitions is the value of the
players and how this reflects on the eventual
winner. Using a valuation based on players
market values at club level, taking in
salaries, stats, age and recent performances
in USD, the players have a total value of
US$7.9 billion (VND166 trillion).
To put some of the values in perspective,
the whole Australian team was valued
at less than their group rival Spains top
player, with Barcelona superstar Andres
Iniesta valued at US$69.4 million (VND1.46
trillion) while the entire Australian squad
was valued at US$56.7 millio (VND1.19
trillion). So lets look a little further into the
value placed on some of the players and
teams involved in this years tournament
and see if they have been worth the expense
at the World Cup.
Spain, the 2010 FIFA World Cup
champion, was ranked number two for total
market value its squad is worth US$633.7

million (VND13.3 trillion). This is just
behind host Brazil which ranked number
one with a net worth of US$666 million
(VND13.99 trillion).
Argentina was at number three their
squad includes the worlds most valuable
player, Lionel Messi, who is valued at
US$151.5 million (VND3.18 trillion).
Germany is ranked number four followed
by France and then under-performing
England whose squad was valued at
US$457.5 million (VND9.6 trillion).
At the other end of the spectrum, the
squads with the lowest market value were
the USA, Australia, Iran, giant killing Costa
Rica (US48 million / VND1.01 trillion) and
Honduras, whose team had a total market
value of US$41.8 million (VND877.6 billion).
More than Money

On top of the high cost of the players, there
were also some strange demands from
certain teams.
Portugal demanded a games console in
every room and six security guards, two
of whom were dedicated to look after
Cristiano Ronaldo at all times.
France required its hotel to replace its
bar soap for the liquid variety. Each room
needed to contain two types of liquid soaps:
one for showering and the other for washing
hands. The French Football Federation also
BY SHANE DILLON
insisted that every players room should be

identical, down to the colour of the paint.
Ecuador demanded a special room where
players could unwind, and an everyday
basket with different types of Ecuadorian
bananas in each room.
England asked for one of three hotel
restaurants to be for their exclusive use, a
dedicated video games room with three
TVs and the latest games, and they wanted
the sole use of the gym and swimming
pool for several hours every day. All their
rooms contained brand new furniture, beds,
wooden floors, rust-free balconies and air
conditioning.
Japan requested all rooms to have a
Jacuzzi.
Bosnia and Herzegovina demanded an
acoustic (sound-proofed) screen. The idea
was that players would dine on one side
and the coaching staff on the other. This way
their conversations would not be mixed
However none of these demands
compared with that of the German team
who after not being impressed by Brazils
existing facilities, built their own complex,
named Campo Bahia. This complex, which
was financed by sponsors, provided a
village atmosphere that also contained 13
houses and 65 rooms.
Shane works in the insurance industry in
Vietnam and studies economics. He can be
contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn
HCMC
BLUE CROSS VIETNAM
8th Floor, River View Tower,
7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08)
3821 9908
inquiry@bluecross.com.vn
www.bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part
of the Pacific Cross group
of companies with over 60
years experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.
Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable
service means they are the
strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are
getting the most out of your
insurance contact them for
a free quote.
IGLOBALASSIST
Tel: 0934 874271
Iglobalassist.com
LIBERTY INSURANCE
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3812 5125
libertyinsurance.com.vn
PRUDENTIAL
25th F, Saigon Trade Centre,
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 1660
prudential.com.vn
TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES

VIETNAM
THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT

GROUP
Huu Nghi Building, 35 Le

Loi, Q1
ten-pac.com
An independent agency representing local and international insurance companies
in Southeast Asia. A trusted
partner for health, employee
benefits and life insurance,
the team at Tenzing has over
30 years experience providing insurance advice.
27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3822 0907
ethicalinvestmentgroup.
co.uk
INTERIOR DESIGN
PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND
REMODELING
Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren
Hawk)
Thinking about upgrading a
bathroom? Perhaps a new
colour in the living room?
Maybe even a new wood
floor? Professional Painting
and Remodeling can help
with these and many other
projects. Provide international standards of quality
as well as professional and
timely service at reasonable
rates. Call today to schedule
a free evaluation.
INVESTMENT & FINANCE

DRAGON CAPITAL
1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo

Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
9355
dragoncapital.com
TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT
66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623
t-wm.com
VINACAPITAL
17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower,
3821 9930
vinacapital.com
A leading investment fund
management company with
extensive experience in the
emerging Vietnam market.
Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which
is a US$839 million investment fund.
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
ILA VIETNAM
146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3521 8788
ilavietnam.com
A foreign-owned education
and training company that
offers a range of educational
programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes,
corporate training, teacher
training and overseas study
consultancy and placement
services.
LATELIER
33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492
latelier-anphu.com
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van,
Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670
771
vietnameselanguagegarden.com
VLS SAIGON
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging
from basic conversational
Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and
advanced levels, as well as
special courses including
Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival
crash course.
VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE

TRAINING & TRANSLATION
37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6678 0914
vnccentre.com
1717
vietnamlaws.com
BAKER & MCKENZIE

12th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3829 5585
bakermckenzie.com
FRASERS LAW COMPANY

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The
Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733
frasersvn.com
GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8599
gide.com
INDOCHINE COUNSEL
Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam
Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 9640
indochinecounsel.com
MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3822 8860
mayerbrownjsm.com
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
EMBERS ASIA
VUS
189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800
vus-etsc.edu.vn
LEGAL SERVICES
ALLENS
Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29
Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu

Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728
embers-asia.com
ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288
erci.edu.vn
G&H
6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919
ghmsglobal.com
A 100 percent foreigninvested company focusing on
management services and
consulting with inhouse
programmes to meet the
particular requirements of
its clients. Offers teambuilding and academicbased
business and management
programmes.
XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
MARKET RESEARCH
CIMIGO
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727
cimigo.vn
An independent marketing
and brand research specialist operating in the Asia
Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes,
knowledge management,
developing marketing plans
and business models and
assessing market opportunities.
HCMC
BODY
AND
FEET FIRST
TEMPLE
BY PHIL KELLY
hen it comes to health and

fitness, being able to move
correctly is integral. Our bodies
are designed to move freely,
effectively and efficiently with all joints and
muscles interrelated through the amazing
Human Movement System (HMS). One
of the big topics at the moment is about
footwear and what is actually best for us.
The discussion is often about bigsoled supportive running shoes verses
minimalist or barefoot shoes. The fact
is as humans we are designed to not
need to wear shoes the skeletal and
neuromuscular structure of the feet, ankle
and in fact the entire body is purpose built
to move. However, our feet have always
needed protection from sharp and even
blunt objects to prevent injury.
The first modern day shoe was
manufactured about 250 years ago with
the first structurally supportive shoe only
arriving in the 1980s. What did we ever do
before this? The development of big-soled
supportive shoes is an interesting one,
but there are more pressing issues when it
comes to footwear.
Anyone who constantly wears footwear
that does not allow their feet to function
properly or creates weakness of the
musculature of the feet is putting the
rest of their body at risk of injury. The
human movement system functions
in an interdependent and interrelated
structure. If one part of the system is out
of alignment it will cause other parts of
the system or structure to compensate
and alter their alignment to rebalance the
overall movement system. For example, if
the muscles of the foot are weak, the foot
will generally pronate, resulting in the
ankle being forced into internal rotation.
The knee will then internally rotate causing
the thigh to do the same. As the thigh
internally rotates, the pelvis or hip with
drop and consequentially the lower spine
will then lapse to that side. The upper
spine therefore has to compensate and
curve to the opposite side elevating the
shoulder. As you can see from the diagram,
a malfunction of the foot can lead to
compensation elsewhere back pain can
often be the result of poor foot function.
The Trouble with Shoes

There are two types of shoes that cause
major problems with peoples posture and
movement capabilities. The first is Asias
favourite the flip-flop or thong. The
second is a womans best friend the
high heel.
When most people wear flip-flops they

change the way they move and how the foot
strikes the ground when walking. These
changes in foot placement effects the way
you walk and hold yourself it changes
your entire posture and movement system.
A recent study found that people
wearing flip-flops take shorter steps and
shuffle their feet. These simple and minor
changes to the HMS completely changes
the natural gait and can trigger problems
and pain throughout the body, as it causes
joints to misalign.
Minor changes to foot placement and
function are amplified and lead to greater
malalignment in joints further up the body
at the knees, hips, spine and shoulders.
Flip-flops commonly cause the wearers to
develop a swayback posture, where the hips
protrude forward in front of the midline of
the body. This posture can cause problems
or pain within the hips and lower and
upper spine, not to mention that it looks
unattractive.
Well-Heeled?
The high heel is a fashion icon and they do
make womens legs look good. However,
from a functional and postural point of
view there is nothing worse.
If you have to wear high heels, wear them
for the shortest time possible and take them
off when sitting. Heels cause an array of
feet, ankle, pelvic and spinal complications,
and they actually deform the feet.
The big toe is pushed inwards into the

other toes creating a bunion or boney
growth at the joint of the big toe. The
combination of the narrow toebox and the
elevated heel can lead to numbness and
pain of the toes. Another study found that
pressure on the knee joint increased by 26
percent, which will cause the wearer to
develop quadriceps dominance and weaken
the glutes not great if you want a bum
like J-Lo.
High heels push the centre of mass
forward meaning the lower back has to
arch (lumbar lordosis), which can cause
tightness, stiffness and pain in the lower
back. At only three inches, heels will
increase the pressure on the balls of the feet
by 76 percent, causing all sorts of additional
foot and back problems.
High heels and Asias favourite footwear,
flip-flops, cause a lot of problems that
people are just not aware of. Try to walk
barefoot as much as possible, so that
the muscles of the feet can strengthen,
rebalance and you can feel where you need
to correct your posture.
Treat yourself to foot massages and be
conscious of how you stand. Your feet can
be the key to good posture and movement
dont abuse them by wearing bad
footwear.
Phil is founder and master trainer at Body
Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763
or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or
through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)
HCMC
com
MEKONG RESEARCH

Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314
mekongresearch.com
NIELSEN
CentrePoint Building, Level

4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088
vn.nielsen.com
TNS VIETNAM
3930 6631
Tnsvietnam.vn
With over 11 years in the
marketplace, TNS Vietnam
offers all three major market
research services customisation, access panels
and media monitoring to
a range of local and international clients.
PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES
DRAGON IMAGES
Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660
dragonimages.asia
Dragon Images production
studio is a professional team

of photographers, stylists.
shooting administrators,
casting managers and retouchers. They make photos
on various topics, from business to sport.
PUBLIC RELATIONS
MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS
Level 5, 273-273B Ben
Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 5517
matterhorncommunications.com
Providing public relations
and communications support to international and
local firms operating in
Vietnam. Specialising in
corporate communications,
media relations, corporate
social responsibility and media and issues management
and training.
VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462
veropr.com
Helps clients expand their
footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective
public relations campaigns.
Services offered include
branding, media relations,
event management, public
affairs and issues / crisis
management.
RECRUITMENT & HR
ADECCO VIETNAM
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26
- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3430
adecco.com.vn
Adecco is the world leader in
human resources solutions.
Established in Vietnam in
2011, Adecco offers a wide
array of global workforce
solutions and specialises in
finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.
HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

1st Floor, Thien Son Building,
5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com
G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM

CO., LTD.
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur,
District 1, HCMC.
Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th
Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba
Dinh District, Hanoi.
www.vieclambank.com
info@vieclambank.com
VieclamBank is a brand of
G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a
Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established
in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting
executive and senior level,
providing Vietnamese and
HCMC
KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS
Japanese candidates with

experience studying abroad
or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and
competitive service suitable
for many types of business.
VIETNAMWORKS.COM
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
RELOCATION AGENTS
LOGICAL MOVES VIETNAM

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international,
local, domestic and office moves for household
goods and personal effects
through our global partner
network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not
have documentation.
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
DANCENTER
53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,
funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
this modern dance studio.
HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com
AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM)

5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices
globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER

37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Inspirato.edu.vn
KIDS CLUB SAIGON

79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel:
0908 460267
kidsclubsaigon.com
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com
ALLIED PICKFORDS
12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices
in over 45 countries, Allied
Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also
provides tailored relocation
services.
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON

19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids
in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and
saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a
mixture of private and group classes.
PIANO CLASSES
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY
38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360

Saigonponyclub.com
Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower,

9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12,
District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3
826 7799
www.asiantigers-mobility.
com
Asian Tigers is one of the
largest regional move management specialists, with
services including door-todoor moving, housing and
school searches, local and
office moves and pet relocations.
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY
CROWN RELOCATIONS
Tel: 01225 636682

morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
SAIGON MOVEMENT
Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com
SAIGON SEAL TEAM

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
SAIGON PONY CLUB
28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to
16 years and private lessons for children and adults.
Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
TAE KWON DO
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
VINSPACE
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
2nd Floor Coteccons Office

Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien
Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3840 4237
crownrelo.com
JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is a leader in the field.
SAIGON EXPRESS
AGENCY LIMITED
7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo,
Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850
seal.com.vn
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

8FL, Thien Son Building, 5
Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers
local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including
home search, orientation,
cultural training, immigration services and records
management. Email info@
santaferelo.com.vn for info.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT
656 Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587
camlyapartment@hcm.
vnn.vn
DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES

No 01 Street No.104-BTT,
Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,
Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08)
3742 5678
enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury
Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from
two to four-bedroom units
with spectacular panoramic
views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite
bathrooms, separate work
and living areas, a balcony,
modern amenities, elegant
furnishings and carefully
chosen trimmings.
CITYVIEW

3822 1111
cityview.com.vn
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON RESIDENCES
Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon youll

find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The
residences offer panoramic
views of the downtown area.
NORFOLK MANSION
1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished
accommodation with attentive and discreet service.
Facilities include an outdoor
swimming pool, a gym, sauna
and steam room, as well as
two on-site restaurants.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
(08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank
hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort
lifestyle with the amenities
of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from
downtown by high-speed
boat shuttle.
SEDONA SUITES
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9666
sedonahotels.com.sg
SHERWOOD RESIDENCE
127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3823 2288
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a
luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime
location, comfort and class,
with fivestar facilities and
service.
SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C
Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
Somerset Chancellor Court,
Somerset Ho Chi Minh City
and Somerset Vista Ho Chi
Minh City serviced residences combine the space
and privacy of an apartment with the services of a
top-rated hotel. They come
with separate living and
dining areas, as well as a
fully equipped kitchen where
guests can prepare a meal
for themselves, their family
and friends.
DELIVERY
BEN STYLE
Tel: 0906 912730
www.vietnammm.com/
restaurants-ben-style
Healthy, calorie-counted
sandwich and deli fare
CHEZ GUIDO
Tel: (08) 3898 3747
www.chezguido.com
Vietnamese, international
fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches
DOMINOS PIZZA
Tel: (08) 3939 3030
www.dominos.vn
Pizzas, wings, desserts
EAT.VN
www.eat.vn
Delivery service website
for local restaurants
EL GATO NEGRO
Tel: (08) 6660 1577
Californian-style burritos
HUNGRYPANDA.VN
www.hungrypanda.vn
KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
www.kfcvietnam.com.vn
Fried chicken, chicken
burgers, sides
LOTTERIA
Tel: (08) 3910 0000
www.lotteria.vn
Burgers, fried chicken,
sides
PIZZA HUT (PHD)

Tel: (08) 3838 8388
www.pizzahut.vn
Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers
SCOOZI
Tel: (08) 3823 5795
www.scoozipizza.com
Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts
TACO BICH
www.tacobich.com
Homemade Mexican fare
WILLY WOOS
Tel: (08) 3941 5433
www.blackcatsaigon.com
US-style chicken and
waffles
VIETNAMMM
www.vietnammm.com
THE LANDMARK
5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2098
thelandmarkvietnam.com
65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a
comprehensive health club
for tenants and members,
a squash court and a 16th
floor swimming pool.

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
downtown
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
Binh Thanh
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING &

ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR &
WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
in
h
APOCALYPSE NOW
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
BEER REPUBLIC
MODERN BEER HALL

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel:
0945 858034
facebook.com/BeerRepublic
BLANCHYS TASH
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
0909 028293
Blanchystash.com
BOOTLEG DJ CAF
MINIMALIST CAF BAR

9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907
609202.
bootlegsaigon.com
Reminiscent of a New York
or London underground
watering hole, this is a great
place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts,
lunch by day and a variety of
DJ sets by night.
BOUDOIR LOUNGE
HOTEL LOUNGE BAR

Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
CARMEN
LIVE MUSIC / BAR

8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 7699
CUNHOUSE
LOUNGE BAR
Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
Tel: 0908 033982
DRUNKEN DUCK
EXPAT / SPORTS BAR

58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3915 2853
Subtle lighting, a pleasant
ambience, a pool table and
darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel
of a drinking man's pub. A
place to have fun, drink beer
or spirits and get in with the
party mood. Known for its 15
shooter challenge.
FUSE
TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP

3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
0919 206461
fuse.vn
GAME ON
SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel:
(08) 6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com
Ma
Ng
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Kh
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Th
i
Le
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Ng
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ue
Le
Lo
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District
10
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Ng
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en
Ca
ch
Du
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ha
n
an
Bi
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Tr
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Th
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Ham Nghi
District 2
Da
o
EXPAT BAR
3822 2644
Expats keep returning to
this smoky dive bar, largely
due to its amicable service,
brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart
games. A mainstay in the
local darts league.
District 3
To
n
Ba
Hu
ng
ICE BLUE
Ha
i
ie
n
LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595
hardrockcafe.vn
Du
HARD ROCK CAFE
Tr
an
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 1234
International dcor blends
seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces
with a wide-ranging drink
menu and hip dance tunes to
create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP
3823 6838
Bromas medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the
citys weirdest and coolest
events/random moments.
A sophisticated cocktail
menu and quite possibly the
best lamb burger in town.
Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.
in
h
Ph
Ho
2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)
BROMA
Huu
C
en
Ti
BARS & CLUBS
an
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Kie
n
Va
District 4
Vo
LA HABANA
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and
restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and
Cuban cuisine, as well as a
few German favourites such
as curry wurst and Wiener
schnitzel. Nightly live music
and regular salsa classes.
If youre in need of dense,

soulful atmosphere and
maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from
wherever, Last Call is your
stop and fast becoming
that of the similarly inclined.
Great happy hour deals for
early evening starters.
LA FENETRE SOLEIL
FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

3824 5994
A seductive watering whole
in a great corner location
thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese
fusion cuisine, imported
beer, classic cocktails, and
entertaining music events /
DJ sets.
LAST CALL
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 3122
lastcallsaigon.com
LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON
FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR

9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 0396
lerendezvousdesaigon.com
With such a meaningful
name - the meeting point
- this wine bistro boasts a
relaxed, friendly ambience,
perfect for unwinding with
an after work drink or to
enjoy time with friends.
Reasonably priced, has a
sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive
old and new world wine list.
LEVEL 23 WINE BAR
large whiskey selection and

upstairs pool table. Great
pizzas. And for a real treat,
check out their zesty rolls.
LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT
PACHARAN
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

Level 23, Sheraton Saigon
Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB

Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
LUSH
PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM
3824 2496
lush.vn
OBRIENS
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports
bar with classic pub dcor
is widely appreciated for its
excellent international fare,
SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6024
pacharansaigon.com
Legs of Iberian ham hang
from the ceiling in the
downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything
Spanish. Regular first-floor
live music and excellent eats
makes it a mainstay for the
wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.
PHATTYS
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed
HCMC
COFFEE CUP
TEGU CAF
ts late Thursday afternoon, and in the

middle of a typical Saigon downpour
a reporter pulls into an alley in front
of a small caf, praying for shelter.
Dress now dripping wet, she takes off
her shoes and glances inside. It doesnt take
long to get a good look at the place. Thin
and narrow, the whole caf is probably
the size of an apartment kitchen. Plastic
linoleum squares cover the floor; long
wooden tables and benches provide the
furnishings and vine-covered wallpaper
cover the walls. Overall its pretty basic.
Oh yeah, and then there are the animal
cages.
Welcome to Tegu Caf and Pet Club.
Lounging with Lizards

Located on Duong D1 in Binh Thanh,
newly-opened Tegu joins the rank of pet
cafs that are making their way around
Ho Chi Minh City. Instead of your typical
dog or cat joint see Ailucat Caf,
284C Nguyen Trong Tuyen, Phu Nhuan

Tegu is staking its claim to the hot
non-household territory that Babo Caf
(9 Chung Cu A3, Duong Hoa Phuong,
Phu Nhuan) simultaneously colonised:
reptiles. Tegus animal den features both
snakes and lizards, which can hang out
with customers while they sit back and
enjoy their coffee.
Compared to the other animal-centred
coffee hubs in Ho Chi Minh City, Tegu
is a bit basic. The extent of their kitchen
equipment seems to be a blender, a kettle,
a dishwashing rack and a sink, with one
flat screen TV adorning the wall. Yet
despite its simplicity, theres something
homey about the place. Between the
cafs keyboard and guitar theres always
someone playing live music, and the
bright lights from the reptile cages are
comforting.
Or maybe its just the chilled back vibe
emanating from the animals. A little over
10 reptiles are spread out over four cages,

and customers are welcome to interact
with them. The snakes and lizards can be
taken out of their cages for cuddles, hugs
and of course photo ops, and they arent
the only animals in house. Make sure to
spend some time with Tegus adorable
little pug puppy, who runs around
constantly between tables and chairs. Be
warned: he likes to nibble.
And then theres the coffee. Regular
black Vietnamese coffee costs only
VND14,000 (VND16,000 with condensed
milk) while other drinks like sodas, teas
and smoothies range from VND14,000 to
VND24,000.
Is this a place to get your regular daily
fix? Definitely not. But if youre looking
to take a break from your daily routine,
head over to Tegu and lay back with the
lizards. Margaret Smith
Tegu Caf is at 125 Duong D1, Binh
Thanh, and on facebook.com/tegu.coffee
HCMC
Caf Latin, Phattys has become the go-to,
Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international
cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array
of pub grub favourites.
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine
bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu
to complement the old and new world wines.
SAIGON SAIGON
XU
HOTEL MUSIC BAR

9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Som
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
STORM P
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738
Stormp.vn
VASCOS
MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR

The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 2888
Vascosgroup.com
A veteran fixture of Saigons nightlife scene,
Vascos offers a softly lit downstairs patio,
and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge
area with regular live music.
CAF / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known
for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a
range of international and Vietnamese dishes
to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior.
Regular DJ nights.
DANCE/HIP HOP
26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2262
velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9698
Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle,
Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet down-toearth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative,
Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement
the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking
and dining venue
VINO
WINE BAR / TAPAS

The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6299 1315
1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
vinovietnam.com
This downtown wine shops terrace is a
popular after work drinking spot, where
one can select from 10 wines by the glass,
a range of imported beer, and an excellent
tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the
great selection of wines in the shop and
pay a small corkage.
VINYL BAR
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623
vinylbarsaigon.com
A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a
backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes.
Has a darts area out back and is a popular
space for watching the live English Premier
League.
WINE BAR 38

38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968
With a huge selection of self-imported wines
from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a
lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian
menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.
WINE EMBASSY

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827
FANNY
ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633
fanny.com.vn
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL
80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3704
saigongivral.com
GOODY

133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339
HAGEN-DAZS
ZANZBAR
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7375
Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list,
subtle lighting, international tapas and a laidback, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the
offering at the all-new ZanZBar on the river
end of Dong Khoi. Popular with a businessy,
international crowd.
CAFES & ICE-CREAM
VELVET
with its location as much as its food.
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772
Auparcsaigon.com
Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc
offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean
food complemented with good coffee and
excellent desserts.
BACH DANG

11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 6683 5899; 20 Le
Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066
LUSINE
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674
9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor compliments
the spacious, whitewashed contemporary
interior of LUsine. A simple, creative menu
combines with reasonably priced coffee,
and a fashion store and art gallery out back.
Second location on Le Loi.
MAGONN THE CAFE

109 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9672
magonn.vn
Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright
and inviting space for everything from drinks
to bites. Coming with a crowd? The attic is a
quaint little spot to fit a cozy gathering.

26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2707
BASKIN ROBBINS
ICE CREAM PARLOUR

1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131
baskinrobbins.vn
CASBAH
MIDDLE EASTERN
59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5130
This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse
has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to
admire views of the city. With such a prime
downtown location, expect prices to match.
CENTRO
ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE

11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
5946
Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best
lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu
including panini and other typical fare.
COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL
Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3508 7285
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures customers into
the flagship store of this international caf
chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating
and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.
CREPERIE AND CAF
FRENCH
5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117
Known for its fantastic street-side seating
opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury
crepes, this hang out caf will impress you
HCMC
M2C CAFE
44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2495
facebook.com/m2ccafe
At M2C (Modern Meets
Culture), everything gets a
touch of modernity. From
the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows
immense local culture, done
with a modern flare. Be seen
here at one of the latest popular joint in town.
THE MORNING CAFE

2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
Have a book to read? Pick a
bright spot by the window
and get snuggly with the
comfy upholstery in this
second-floor cafe. With a
cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some
background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.
THE PRINT ROOM
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
3823 4990
Second-storey coffeehouse
offers a quiet atmosphere
to chill out or read from
their book-nook collection.
Comfortable couch seating,
open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
TRUNG NGUYEN
INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE
80 Dong Khoi, Q1
trungnguyen.com.vn
ZEST BISTRO & CAF
INTERNATIONAL
5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)
3911 5599
This two-storey building with
a mezzanine level boasts an
industrial style complex with
block walls, steel structures
and huge glass windows.
The mid-range menu offers
over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

ANUPA ECO LUXE
LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2394
anupa.net
Monday to Sunday, 9am to
8pm
This centrally located unique
boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique
which exclusively retails
the complete Anupa leather
and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other
unique eco brands such as
bamboo eyewear, pendant
scarves and cushion covers.
DEBENHAMS
ADULT & CHILDRENS WEAR

Vincom Center, 70-72 Le
Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
7592
GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN
DESIGN & JEWELLERY

6291 8162
galleryvivekkevin.com
9.30am to 8pm
This retail-cum-gallery
space specialises in contemporary and exclusive
handcrafted jewellery made
from handpicked gemstones
and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run
every month.
GEISHA & GEISHAS COFFEE AND

TEA HOUSE
CASUAL & EVENING WEAR

3829 4004
Contemporary ranges of
casual and evening wear
fused with Asian designs.
The apparel includes floral
dresses, jean skirts, printed
tees and street-style bags.
Enjoy a cup of coffee at their
caf after.
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
8755
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
IPA-NIMA
BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
9am to 9pm
LUSINE
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and
sophisticated clothing and
casual high-quality cottons
are stocked at this boutique/
caf. Lifestyle accessories
include shoes, homewares,
knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.
MANDARINA
TAILOR-MADE SHOES
171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 5267
MR & MRS SMITH
FACTORY OUTLET
(08) 3821 8019
9am to 9pm
This designer fashion outlet
sells a variety of clothing and
shoes produced in Vietnam.
All designs are brand new,
delivered from the factory
weekly and sold at factory
outlet prices.
SONG
ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65
Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3914 4088
asiasongdesign.com
T&V TAILOR
TAILORS
3824 4556
triciaandverona.com
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A
Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
COOKING CLASSES
SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY
HOA TUC
3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The
three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking
Vietnamese chef, includes a
trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.
VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu
Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 4201
bellavitafurniture.com
BOCONCEPT
DANISH FURNITURE
68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 6604; The Crescent
Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5413 7357
boconcept.vn
DIABOLO
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1803
9am to 8pm
EM EM
SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org
NGUYEN FRERES
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
3823 9459
8am to 8pm
NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY
EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS
3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1.
(08) 3824 7456
ninhkhuong.vn
SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

69 Dong Khoi, Q1
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre,
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
6115
www.nhaxinh.com
THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6657 0788

thefurniturewarehouse.
com.vn
EAT
3T QUAN NUONG
VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631
AL FRESCOS
INTERNATIONAL
38238424
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of
one of Vietnams most successful restaurant chains,
Al Frescos offers international, Australian-influenced
comfort fare in a pleasant
environment with efficient,
friendly service to match.
Excellent delivery service.
ASHOKA
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 1372
33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel :
(08) 3744 4177
ashokaindianrestaurant.
com
Long-running, awardwinning Indian restaurant
famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and
Chinese-Indian fare.
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAF
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European
caf fare think deli-style
sandwiches, salads and
mezzes, plus coffees and
juices served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and
green-tiled dcor.
HCMC
CENTRAL PARC BANH MI
BAHDJA
87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763
1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com
Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel,
Bahdja is Saigons first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber
North African and Mediterranean cuisine
cooked and served in a traditional Algerian
style. Best experienced in a group, this small
but pleasant restaurants soothing ambience
is matched by the owners genuine hospitality
and complimented by an array of tasty tajines
and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to
try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.
BARBECUE GARDEN
VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE
135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
3340; 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1
barbecuegarden.com
BASILICO
Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du
and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099
BEIRUT
LEBANESE
The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2188
BIBI@ALIBI
5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257
The legendary chef Bibis newest creation, a
convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean
cuisine using fresh products bought early
morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the
famous tarte tatin.
BLACK CAT
AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055
blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails,
mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular twostorey eatery close to the river.
BLANCHY STREET
JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8793
The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito,
the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine
at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and
most unusual in the city. All complemented
by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy
terrace out front.
BOMBAY INDIAN
INDIAN MALAY
57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114
BROTZEIT
GERMAN / RESTOBAR
Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 4206
brotzeit.co/kumholink
BUN CHA HA NOI
BUN CHA
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1
7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549

Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule,
New York-themed sandwich shop does
creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices
think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels.
Excellent delivery service.
CIAO BELLA
NEW YORK-ITALIAN
11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering
a range of tasty and affordable antipasti,
pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic
bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film
legends make for a relaxed and attractive
setting.
CORSO
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing
range of US and Australian steaks plus great
grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decentsized steaks start at VND390,000.
DRAGON NOODLE
JAPANESE NOODLES
29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008
ELBOW ROOM
AMERICAN
52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking USstyle diner ranges from meatball baguettes
to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken
salads and a selection of more expensive
international mains.
EL GAUCHO
5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an
Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage,
skewers, burger dishes and everything that
can come off a grill.
GANESH
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and
creamy and the curries are both authentic
and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the
best Indian in town. Very friendly service.
GOLDEN ELEPHANT
CLASSIC THAI
34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554
saigonssk@vnn.vn
GOURMETS DELIGHT
ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE

Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181
gourmetsdelight.com.vn
GRILLBAR
AIRCON STREETFOOD
122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7901
facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe
Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to it a range of grilled dishes,
typical of the barbecue fare youd find on
the street, and then add in three types of rice
and a range of organic products. Close to Ben
Thanh Market, this is com binh dan
HOA TUC
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1676
Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn
rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken
in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.
HOANG YEN
LA HOSTARIA
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080
lahostaria.com
This downtown hideaway with rusticstyle
decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello dantico.
Also specializes in excellent wood-fired
pizzas.
LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON
PAN-VIETNAMESE
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101
HOGS BREATH CAF
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai
Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar
atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers
regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy
hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.
INAHO
SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326
JASPAS WINE & GRILL
INTERNATIONAL FUSION
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good
and creative. Excellent service, an attractive
outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu.
Check out their pepper steaks.
KABIN
CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 815 Ton Duc
Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine
in an elegant, classic setting, with striking
dcor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to
VND900,000.
CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION

40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263
lebouchondesaigon.com
A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic
staples such as French onion soup, escargot,
and moules marinires, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world
wines.
LE JARDIN
CLASSIC FRENCH
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465
Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a
relaxed garden setting within the French
cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap
house wine is served by the carafe.
LUCCA
TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN
88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3691
A contemporary trattoria in the heart of
Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine
with New York flair in a beautifully designed
space with high ceilings. The menu features
both traditional antipasti and substantial
main courses.
LUONG SON
PAN-VIETNAMESE
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330
KOH THAI
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4423
Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai
classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and
more. Koh Thais creative cocktails merge
Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and
herbs.
LE BANH MI
12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1036
LOLIVIER
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with
its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and
ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant
has quarterly Michelin star promotions and
an award winning pastry team.
LA CUISINE
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant
bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu,
backed up with an extensive wine list.
MAY RESTAURANT
19 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686
may.restaurant19@gmail.com
7am to late
Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic
Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating,
an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the
Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this
multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out
their set lunches and happy hour.
MARKET 39
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 9999
MOGAMBO
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311
mogambo@saigonnet.vn
NAM GIAO
HUE CUISINE
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38
250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 9996
namgiao.com
HCMC
TOP EATS
KAY VEGAN BISTRO
ve been trying to fix my life. Wake up

at a regular time and exercise. Cut out
the bad stuff. Eat better.
In the course of this juvenation
theres no re in there, my bad habits
extend to well before my metabolism
slowed Ive started to go to Kims more
often. Just down the block from my house,
my roommates and I have always known
Kay Vegan Bistro as Kims because of
co-owner and matriarch Nguyen Kim
Chis pervasive presence. Judging from the
hellos and how are yous Kim showers
on her peak lunchtime diners, we cant be
the only ones with this strong association.
Its not the things you give, Kim says.
Youre also giving the meaning of it. Its
not about a single dish, its about the result,
and how much love I put in it.
Not About a Single Dish...

On the day I go down in my official
capacity, its definitely about the food, all
15 courses of it. Id given Kim the heads up
about this review, and asked if she could
prepare a few dishes to be photographed.
Perhaps I should have been more specific.
Before photographer Francis and I knew
to pace ourselves, wed already eaten a
plate of lightly fried spring rolls, picked all

the ricotta and olives from the Kay Caprese
salad and devoured Kays self-styled tapas
offerings plates of jerky-like dehydrated
mushrooms and seaweed. When the tangy
som tam papaya salad and sweet, richlyflavoured pad Thai arrived dishes I
regularly eat at Kay la carte we knew
we were wading into deep waters.
The tom yum soup acted as a sort of
interlude between the first half of our
meal and the next. Fresher and cleaner
than Thai style tom yum, with less coconut
as befits Vietnamese tastes, it acted as
a semi-spicy palate cleanser. The green
curry was awesome as always its one
of their specialities.
By the time we got to the minced soft
tofu sauced holy basil which the chef
incorrectly remembered as my favourite;
it comes a distant second to my everyday
jam, the pomelo salad wed gathered
enough steam to put an exclamation mark
on our meal, in the form of an empty plate.
Then came one dessert. Then came another.
If youve noticed a Thai emphasis in
the dishes mentioned, its because Thai
dishes are the most widely covered by their
international vegetarian menu. Shipments
of herbs and spices come in weekly from

Thailand, and Kims Mercure Koh Changawarded Certificate of Culinary Achievement
in Thai Cooking hangs in front.
Sticking it through, I finished a
tremendously satisfying scoop of
vanilla ice cream. Vegan? you might be
thinking Really? Kay is vegan more
in the Vietnamese sense of the word a
restaurant dedicated to an anti-cruelty,
pro-health vegetarian ethos, with the
occasional dairy product thrown in.
This is hardly an impartial review, but
judge it on the basis of my long-standing
patronage. Kay and nearby Lau Nam Chay
An Nhien (94 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1) are
my two favourite Vietnamese vegetarian
restaurants my favourite cuisine in
Saigon (shout-outs also go to Japanese
veggie oasis Ploughmans Garden [58
So 1, Tran Nao, Q2] and the Cao Daiadministered Dinh Y [171B Cong Quynh,
Q1]).
Kay will continue to receive my business
and my affection, even after my health kick
tapers off. With Kims, its never about a
single dish. Ed Weinberg
Kay Vegan Bistro is at 84A Nguyen Dinh
Chieu, Q1, in the alley Hem Cay Diep
NHA HANG NGON
VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD

160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131
NINETEEN
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
OMG!
QUAN BUI 2
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515
With its leafy roof garden and chic interior,
Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open
kitchen.
REFINERY
FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1
A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from
Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell
modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a
jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades this popular
French-style bistro and wine bar which once
housed the citys opium refinery. The cuisine
runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.
OSAKA RAMEN
REFLECTIONS
OPERA
RIVERSIDE CAF
JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My
Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7
Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
Unpretentious, casual but elegant restaurant
with a triedandtested Italian menu backed
up by a compact wine list from regions like
Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and impressive open kitchens.
PACHARAN
SPANISH / EUROPEAN
97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924
Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs
bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in
warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharans
food menu is traditionally Spanish.
PASHA
TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL
25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677
pasha.com.vn
Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant
close to the mosque with Islamic-style white
dome dcor and comfortable, cushioned
seating.Authentically Turkish cuisine with a
sprinkling of western fare thrown in.
PENDOLASCO
PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian
restaurant serves up quality homemade
pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and
grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.
PIZZA 4PS
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet
delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and
calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more
traditional varieties.
PROPAGANDA
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1
Part of the group that includes Au Parc
and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of
barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda
Art murals and prints.
INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING

3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
Renaissance Riverside, 815 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
Offers versatile allday dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to
watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT
PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of
dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong,
Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms
and a main dining area seating over 300.
Good for events.
SKEWERS
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini
carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range
of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop
skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.
TANDOOR

74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839
Tandoorvietnam.com
TEMPLE CLUB
SAIGON CAF
PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old
Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple
Club is one of the citys best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.
SEOUL HOUSE
THE BURGER CORNER
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297
INTERNATIONAL
43 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0094
HCMC
NON-FAMOUS PLACES
237 NO TRANG LONG FAIRY TALE CASTLE
In an ongoing series originally published on the blog From Saigon, Non-Famous

Places seeks to take readers to Ho Chi Minh City landmarks left o most maps,
whose stories make up the very fabric of the city itself
3-year-old Le Thanh Cong just

doesnt care. Why do we want to
see his house? Oh, people always
come to see the house, he doesnt
mind. Can we take some pictures? Sure we
can take some pictures.
But when we ask details, his willingness
hits a roadblock. Why was the house built
out here? He doesnt know. How old is it? He
cant say. Hes just an old man who will die
soon, living here.
Until a few years ago his mother
also lived in the house, along with the
seven members of younger generations
currently residing there. Her room is still
unoccupied. Faded letters reading Mung
le thuong tho ba Nguyen Thi Quy 100 tuoi
Happy birthday and long live 100-yearold grandmother Nguyen Thi Quy stay
glued to the wall. A 100-year-old cabinet
made of the rare wood his family trafficked
in, sits in the front room between alabasterwhite pillars.
Illustration by Lys Bui
Through the Generations

Congs grandfather, Le Minh Tri, built the
house before Cong was born. Owing to a
recent stroke and the vagaries of old age, he
hardly remembers anything about his elder,
besides for his Annamite origins Tri came
from modern-day Central Vietnam.
But Cong does remember one thing about
the baroque structure his grandfather built,
whose pointed roof breaks the fence-line
separating it from Binh Thanhs busy No
Trang Long Street. No concrete was used in
its building the uneven hues of its surface,
cracked but remarkably well preserved, are a
product of a simple lime-and-sugar mixture.
The pointed roof itself is the rarest feature
of the house. The Notre Dame Cathedral is
the only other building in Saigon with that
type of hinged, pitched-tile roof, curlicue
embellishments occurring rhythmically down
its stone ridges.
Congs father, Le Thanh Tri, harvested
wood from forests to the north Trang Bom
and Dinh Quan forests in Dong Nai Province,

and Dong Xoai forest in Binh Phuoc Province,
site of the Battle of Dong Xoai in 1965.
Although Cong managed a lumber
business, he didnt have to go to the
forest. And soon, the wilderness around
237 No Trang Long began to change. From
a haunted area with tales of wartime
bodies dumped into the nearby Saigon
River post-1975 the neighbourhood began
to develop into the populous area of today.
What was once a solitary outpost among
rubber plantations, the gateway between
central Saigon and an unsettled world, is
now only an outpost of memory between a
Thegioididong electronics store and a garden
caf. And the world continues to progress,
outside the vine-wreathed fences of 237 No
Trang Long. Ed Weinberg
The From Saigon blog is at from-saigon.tumblr.
com. Site selection and guidance comes from Tim
Doling. To see his work on the history of Vietnam,
go to historicvietnam.com
HCMC
THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON
54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 2079
swisshousesaigon.com
Serving up authentic cuisine
spanning the three linguistic
regions of Switzerland, as
well as dishes from Bavaria
and Austria, this attractive,
two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant also boasts a beer
cellar in the basement.
TOKYO BBQ
JAPANESE BARBECUE
15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2527
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this
a great drinking and dining
venue
WARDA
MIDDLE-EASTERN
71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3822
info@wardavn.com
The deep colours, Arabic dcor and cushioned outdoor
terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.
The food is good, too, taking
in tabouleh, houmous, falafel
and mutabbal, shwarmas
and more. Sells authentic
shisha.
WRAP & ROLL

3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.
YAMANEKO
JAPANESE / OKINAWA
(08) 3823 8433
yamanekovn.com
Funky Yamaneko down an
alley off Le Thanh Ton offers delicious, unpretentious
Okinawan fare alongside
mainland staples. Does a
great set lunch deal.
YU CHU
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 3520 9999
Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles,
fresh dim sum and hot wok

dishes within an impeccably
designed open kitchen, as
diners look on. Stylish and
spectacular.
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

ANUPA YOGA
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2394
anupa.net/yoga-anupa
CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE
FITNESS CENTRE
Queen Ann Building, 2830
32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
5999
Cfyc.com.vn
NUTRIFORT
GENERAL FITNESS
2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8560
nutrifort.com
Offers fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. There is also a
spa and a restaurant serving
caloriecalibrated meals.
RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH

CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033
SAIGON FITNESS CO.
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
SHERATON FITNESS
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

3824 1555
THE LANDMARK CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext. 176
In addition to the squash
court, facilities include a
fullyequipped gym room, a
rooftop swimming pool and
separate male and female
saunas.
GALLERIES
BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART
GALLERY
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 3695
bluespacearts.com
DOGMA
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese
propaganda art and a collection put together over the
last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the

majority of the work comes
from the war period when
provocative poster art was
used to inspire and motivate.
Sells prints of the originals
and related products.
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS

MUSEUM
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 4441
baotangmythuattphcm.vn
PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3181
07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 3166
phuongmaigallery.com
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

(08) 3822 9332
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from
the likes of Fauchon. The
deli upstairs in the Hai Ba
Trung branch serves tasty
baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free
WiFi, and offers probably
the best selection of cheese
and cured meats in town.
Free delivery for Districts 1,
2 and 3.
BACCHUS CORNER
WINE SHOP
158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 3306
bacchuscorner.com
A range of spirits, whiskies
and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over
the world with an especially
good selection from France,
Chile and South Africa. Also
has an excellent range of
single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an onsite
wine tasting machine, the
Enomatic, the first of its kind
in Vietnam.
DALOC
WINE SHOP
74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 5404 3575
daloc.vn
KIM HAI BUTCHERS
BUTCHERS
73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 4376
kimhai.vn
PHUONG HA
GROCERS
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 1318
RED APRON
WINE SHOP
22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 0021
HCMC
HC
CMC
A WORLD
OF
THE SKY IS NOT FALLING
ts no secret I love a good

international day, especially the lesser
known ones that dont come with
their own celebrity endorsement
(ack!). This month will see the
celebration of World Population Day
and thats got me thinking about a few
things.
When the earths population hit seven
billion in 2011, the handwringing began. I
was told gravely there were just too many
mouths to feed and thus the planet faced
imminent collapse. Or really soon, anyway.
Like in 50 years. Talk continues to centre
on food scarcity, resource wars and
ecological collapse.
I still meet folks from the UK (population
63 million) or the US (319 million), who are
staggered at Vietnams temerity in creating
a population of 90 million, ignoring the
fact its land mass is 22 percent larger than
the UKs and has far more land under
irrigation. Yes, thinking about population
also means thinking about countries that
have skewed sex ratios at birth. (Vietnams
is around 111 boys to 100 girls.) There
remain strong cultural preferences for boys
here and as such, although sex-selection

abortion is ostensibly illegal, ultrasound is
not. Within the next few decades a number
of countries around the world will face a
disturbing lack of brides for millions of
men. That will certainly affect populations.
Peaks and Troughs

But the biggest reason Im thinking about
this international day is because frankly
this many people on the planet is an
achievement. Were healthier and we live
longer. And even better, the UN says by
about 2050, the worlds population growth
will likely peak at around 10 billion and
start declining. Why? Because it already
has in many parts of the world. In other
words, getting old is what were doing, not
making babies (sure some are, but not all
of us). That all has to do with fertility and
replacement rates. Countries like Tunisia,
Brazil and Thailand have fertility rates
below their population replacement rates
and then there are countries like Japan,
Germany or Ukraine.
How did this happen? Population
issues are poverty issues. When we
GOOD
BY DANA MCNAIRN
focus attention and resources on the

education, health and reproductive rights
of adolescent girls and women (and boys
and men), they are better able to make
informed choices that can and do transform
their communities. This means things like
jobs, media literacy and reduced infant
mortality. Population is important, but
where were at is not a call to panic. Sure
its easier to feed a billion less people
than a billion more, but we are not seven
billion hunter-gatherers either. Scarcity and
famine are acts of political will. Humanity
has consistently adapted to and thrived
in its environment, making better use
of agricultural outputs. More education
means people make better choices about
their food supply chains, their environment
and their use (or not) of resources.
All those doomsday prophets who
predict a pending world collapse will
continue to wait for the apocalypse. Only,
theyll be waiting a long time.
Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit
social enterprise and vocational training
programme for at-risk youth. She can be
contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au
HCMC
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE SHOP
(08) 3825 8826
One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition
to their excellent range of
wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.
centre located in District

1. Experienced American,
French, and Vietnamese
doctors provide the full
spectrum health care. Plus
sports medicine, cosmetic
treatments, skin care and
surgical consultations.
VEGGYS
GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8526
VINIFERA
WINE SHOP
7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0860
viniferavn.com
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP
74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6299 1315
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines.
Also offers regular popular
wine courses. The outdoor
terrace area is the perfect
spot to sample a new vintage.
HAIRDRESSERS
VENUS
41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3829 6298
MEDICAL & DENTAL

ACCADENT
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com
CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI)
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic
provides general practice
and a range of specialties
including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and
traditional medicine.
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.
FV SAIGON CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6290 6167
fvhospital.com
Stateoftheart medical
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3827 6999
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic
offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to
treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and
facial care team. The clinic
utilises the latest therapies.
WESTCOAST INTL DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL
CLINIC
Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6999
The Practice, Level 1, 71-79
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
6777
westcoastinternational.com
An international dental clinic
equipped with the latest
technology, the comfortable
clinics offer cosmetic and
implant dentistry with a focus on making each patients
experience anxiety and pain
free.
SALONS & SPAS

AQUA DAY SPA
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
aquadayspasaigon.com
FAME NAILS SALON

3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909
682 827
famenails.com
GLOW SPA
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8368
glowsaigon.com
Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages
lasting from 30 minutes, to
two-hour hot stone therapy,
includes one suite with a
Jacuzzi bath; offers hand
and foot care and a hair
styling area.
INDOCHINE SPA
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a
peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic
scents and lulling melodies.
Customers are pampered
by qualified therapists using

natural French products in
a clean and pleasant environment.
JASMINE
(08) 3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
Sparelated salon with a
good reputation for quality
and comfort offers washes
and leisurely haircuts from
VND330,000 plus a range of
related services including
massage and some excellent treatments.
MEKONG BLISS SPA

112, Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
6299 0563
10am to 10pm (last booking
9.30pm)
Q SPA & SALON

31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08)
3905 4609
Qspaandsalon.com
An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with
wooden floors, flowers and
flowing drapes makes this
an excellent atmosphere in
which to enjoy a massage.
Also offers hair styling and
facials.
ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Specialising in all forms of
skincare, this is welldesigned, ambient and outfitted
day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and
foot treatments.
SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND

HEALTH CLUB
3rd Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3520 9999
THANH SANCTUARY
Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
0885
THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL

CLUB
22nd floor, Sailing Tower,
111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
2220 2600
spa1960.vn
THE SPA
Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu
Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3514 9007
Saigon Centre, 3M Floor,
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
1800
thespavietnam.com
THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
XUAN SPA
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
1234
hyattpure.com
HCMC
FOOD PROMOS
Peking Duck
@ Shang Palace
shangpalace.com.vn
This month Shang Palaces Hong Kongtrained chefs have a chance to show off
their speciality Peking Duck, with a 30
percent discount offer VND560,000++
per duck. With a history of more than 600
years under its belt, isnt it time you gave
the worlds most famous duck a try?
May Days
facebook.com/may.restaurant.bar
May Restaurant and Bar is stirring
the Dong Khoi pot with some superb
specials, like a VND199,000 set lunch,
available weekdays and featuring an
appetiser, main, dessert and your choice
of tea or coffee. And while youre there,
you might as well stay through their
3pm to 7pm happy hour, featuring buyone-get-one cocktails from their menu of
70-plus, and buy-two-get-one winesby-the-glass from a selection of 20-plus
vintages.
The Early Bird Gets the Worm,

and Huevos Rancheros
@ Snap Caf
facebook.com/thesnapcafe
Snap Caf has come up with a wild
offer that might even motivate some
early visits from summer breakers
free breakfast with any Italian coffee
purchase. These breakfasts arent just
any slapdash dishes, but actual real
breakfasts youd pay for, like an ovenbaked Cajun clay pot fry-up and those
aforementioned huevos rancheros. After a
successful run in June, theyre bringing
the offer back in July, but only between
the weekday hours of 7.30am to 9.30am,
and only one per person, greedy.
Go Pandas!
foodpanda.vn
Foodpanda.com is your best friend while
watching the footie as we enter the
single-elimination rounds of the World
Cup. Stock up on some treats for those
late-night marathons with discounts
up to 50 percent and chances to win an
Apple iPad Mini, to pass those footballless daytime hours. Through Jul. 10, post
the hashtag #foodball2014 on Facebook or
Twitter via foodball.foodpanda.com to reap
your rewards, and make some silly puns
while youre at it.
The Art of Artichokes

@ Reflections, Caravelle Hotel
The Peking Duck at Shang Palace
caravellehotel.com
Reflections is drawing inspiration
from the gourmet gardens of Dalat this
summer, with Chef Darren Watson and
his team showcasing the subtle flavours
of the artichoke. From Jul. 12 to Jul. 18,
Reflections will stuff artichokes into
appetisers such as stuffed artichoke
hearts and artichoke carpaccio, and

mains such as sous vide duck breast with
artichoke gratin and Cajun marinated
salmon fillet with artichoke blinis.
Artichoke enthusiasts can also order any
three courses from the a la carte menu
for VND810,000, or any four courses for
VND938,000.
HCMC
GINKGO
pham ngu lao
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING

& ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
GALLERIES
BAKERIES
CRUMBS
BAKERY
117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 1992
crumbs.com.vn
Dubbed the local bakery,
Crumbs serves up a variety
of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and
garlicbased buns and loafs,
meatfilled pastries, sweet
pastries, healthconscious
breads and more. There is
also a breakfast menu and
variety of sandwiches available.
TOUS LES JOURS
KOREAN BAKERY
(08) 3914 4350
BARS & CLUBS

BIA TUOI 33
BIA HOI
33 Bui Vien, Q1
BREAD & BUTTER
ternational and Vietnamese

cuisine. Check out their daily
drink specials and Tuesday
night pub quizzes.
LONG PHI
FRENCH / RESTOBAR
3837 2704
French-run but universally
appealing, Long Phi has been
serving the backpacker area
with excellent cuisine and
occasional live music since
1990. Excellent late-night
bistro cuisine.
SAIGON VIBRATIONS
REGGAE BAR
143 Nguyen Trai, Q1
facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae
inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the
name of that most special
of sounds the one from
Jamaica.
SEVENTEEN SALOON
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT
FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8452
With a free book exchange,
and tasty Sunday night
roasts, the tiny Bread &
Butter is a perfect place for
homesick expats and beer
enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served
here exclusively in Ho Chi
Minh City).
THEMED MUSIC BAR

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
Wild West-themed bar
doubles as a music venue,
where three talented Filipino
bands (B&U, Wild West and
Most Wanted) play covers of
rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2
and Guns n Roses. Top shelf
spirits and friendly, hostess
style table service are the
name game here.
GO2
SPOTTED COW
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 9575
GODMOTHER BAR
RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE /
WESTERN
3832 4589
godmothersaigon.com
Only a couple blocks from
the bru-haha of Bui Vien,
Godmothers is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent
mojitos, good food, and the
weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJs.
LE PUB
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
Tel: (08) 3837 7679
Warm colors, artsy dcor
and a friendly ambiance
combine to create a perfect
setting for enjoying tasty in-
INTERNATIONAL / SPORT
3920 7670
Alfrescosgroup.com
Spotted Cow delivers the
fun-loving atmosphere that
its playfully decorated black
and white spotted interior
promises, as well as decent
international comfort food,
a range of happy hours, live
sports, and darts.
THE OBSERVATORY
BAR, ART & MUSIC SPACE

Cnr. Le Lai and Ton That
Tung, Q1, Tel: 0906 359440
theobservatory-hcmc.com
The Observatory is DJ Hibiya Line's new youth culture
hub, just off Pham Ngo Lao.
With its two-floor, nook-andcranny setup, it combines
caf culture, cocktails, art,
DJ nights now the home
base for the Optimist Club
live music and various "hap-
penings", sprinkling them

throughout its cozy corners.
THI CAF
LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE

224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2929
T&R TAVERN
DIVE BAR
57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 9839
UNIVERSAL BAR
LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR

90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633
343933
universalbarsaigon.com
CAFES
BOBBY BREWERS
INTERNATIONAL
3920 4090
bobbybrewers.com
Choose from a full range
of caf beverages and a
fast-food style menu as you
watch the latest Hollywood
hits in their upstairs lounge.
Check website for movie locations and schedule.
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
MARATHON
BUDGET CLOTHING
3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019
PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
papaya-tshirt.com
ORANGE
BUDGET CLOTHING
3820 2620
9am to 10pm
U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:
0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 9780
EAT
CHICCO DICAFF CAF
ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE

213 Bui Vien, Q1
facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee
Set just off the street on the
quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco
Dicaff serves an expat and
local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured
concoctions, from a five-seat
coffee bar.
INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.

BAM SKATE SHOP
SKATEWEAR / STREET
641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BLUE DRAGON
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2084
8am to 10.30pm
BABAS KITCHEN

3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian
does the full range of fare
from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka
masala, kormas, kebabs and
fiery vindaloos.
BURRITO REVOLUTION
TEX-MEX / STREET STALL

714882
CHIS CAF
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable caf is a rarity
in the backpacker area for
its genuinely good musical
playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked
potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a
popular motorbike rental
service.
CORIANDER
THAI / VIETNAMESE
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837
1311
JJS FISH N CHIPS
FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL

Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De
Tham, Q1
LA CANTINA
TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
MARGHERITA
ITALIAN / TEX-MEX
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
SISTERS CAFE
VIETNAMESE/WESTERN
Tel: 0903 643446
Light wood paneling, beige
walls and locally themed
artwork help to create a
fresh and airy ambience in
this caf-cum-restaurant
that is owned by the woman
behind Chis Caf. Also does
visa extensions and motorbike rental.
THE HUNGRY PIG
BACON BAR / CAFE

3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and
more bacon, all set in airy,
spacious atmosphere, and
you get The Hungry Pig, an
eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty
through to the bacon Caesar.
A popular hangout.
TIN NGHIA
VEGAN
(08) 3821 2538
One of the citys oldest eateries (established in 1925)
does some of the cheapest
and tastiest vegan cuisine in
town, all cooked up without
onions, garlic or MSG.
WRAP & ROLL

226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check
out the second floor, junglein-the-wall dcor at this
particular branch. Unique
and refreshing.
infatuated venue is a caf

and restaurant by day and
a sidewalk drinking joint
by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.
GALLERIES
GALERIE QUYNH
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8019
galeriequynh.com
In addition to working with
artists based in Vietnam,
Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from
around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports
education through talks, lectures and publications.
TATTOO ARTISTS
With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over
the past few years there
has been an increase in
the number of tattoo studios around the city.
Customers have the
choice of picking their
own tattoo out of the
many look books on offer
in the studios or bringing
in their own design. Most
of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.
Pricing depends on size
and style.
LAC VIET TATTOO 608
Dien Bien Phu, Q10

Tel: (08) 3830 4668
106 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: (08) 3821 7068
lacviettattoo.com
SAIGON BODY ART
135 Cong Quynh, Q1

Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com
SAIGON INK
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1

Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com
SAIGON TATTOO
31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net
SAIGON TATTOO GROUP

81 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn
TATTOO SAIGON
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1

Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com
TATTOO TAM BI
209 Bui Vien, Q1

Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat.com
ZEUS
GREEK / KEBAB
3837 3248
ZOOM CAF
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures.
com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespa-

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
district 1
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
Binh Thanh
BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

/ COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
in
h
BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)
CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL

37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1,
Tel: 0906 780081
CHILL SKYBAR
TOP-END BAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
For the spectacular views
alone, Chill Skybar remains
the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped
bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering
holes in the city.
HOA VIEN
CZECH BREWHOUSE
3825 8605
hoavien.vn
MZ CLUB
LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB

56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 5258
m-zing.com
SHOOTERS BEER HOUSE

31 Le Quy Don, Q1
THE ORIENT
SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1
facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
An attractive, spacious,
brick-wall interior, a long
bar, high table seating, big
screens, a pool table and
live music. A great venue for
a few beers and more.
VUVUZELA

11 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3910 2281
BOOKS
LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM
PHONG
82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 7858
Nam Phong Bookstore was
founded at the of end 2002 in
Ho Chi Minh City as the first
and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.
Only books written in French
BANKSY CAFE
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 01699 990003
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
A small but swanky cafe,
Banksy promises a young
and vibrant hideout in an
old 1960s-era apartment
building. Remember to head
up the steep stairs within to
dig into their secret stash of
clothes and accessories.
CAFE THOAI VIEN

159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: 0918 115657
cafethoaivien.com
Veer off the street and find
yourself plunging straight
into lush greenery. Cafe
Thoai Vien serves up a
spacious and airy setting
to enjoy a quiet sip. From
small eats to big bites and
everything to drink, its a
great place to unwind from
all that buzz.
INTERNATIONAL
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3833 3648
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
DECIBEL
INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense,
this two-floor, relaxed caf
offers beautiful decor and
unique original events like
live music, film screenings,
and art exhibits. Great prices
and food with daily specials.
I.D. CAF
District
10
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben
Thanh Market, i.d offers
casual caf dining with a
wide variety of food and
beverages. Where modern
design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.
LAN MIEN DINING CAFE
76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
2718
The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of
this popular, contemporary
caf. Enjoy live music on
weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese
or espresso-based coffee.
LE PETIT CAF
FRENCH
112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6291 2067
MOCKINGBIRD CAFE
4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
Sitting atop of a number of
cafe establishments in an old
apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a
romantic time over mojitos,
or good ol caffeine-infused
relaxation.
THE OTHER PERSON CAFE

2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
Fancy being served up by
maids in costume? Call for
a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking
while spending an afternoon
in this candy-land inspired
cafe.
THINGS CAFE
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
Feel the calm and serenity
of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old
Apartment. The quaint and
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i
ICE CREAM PARLOUR

4 Truong Han Sieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6674 6763
Bi
en
ie
n
Ca
ch
KEM NHAN
Du
Th
an
g8
Ng
.H
ue
Ham Nghi
District 2
Da
o
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da

Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701
Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews
in Saigon. Using own grown
and specially sourced Dalat
beans, speciality coffee such
as cold drip, siphon, and
Chemex are must haves for
the avid coffee drinker.
Tr
u
h
an
QUAN NHAU
18A/31/B22 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, Q1
(A) CAFE
District 3
Hu
n
ANH DUCS
CAFES
INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH
97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3844 3295
saigongivral.com
To
n
Ba
Tr
an

79 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, Tel:
0919 584884
info@ahoybeerclub.vn
GIVRAL CAF
Ha
i
in
h
Ph
Ho
AHOY BEER CLUB
are for sale, covering for all

ages and tastes. A catalogue
is available at namphongsaigon.com
Huu
C
en
Ti
BARS & CLUBS
an
g
t
Kie
n
Va
District 4
Vo
relaxing atmosphere sets for

some alone time, or quality
conversations held over a
drink or two.

BOSSINI
UNISEX CASUAL WEAR

22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3839 2292
Bossini.com
GAYA CLOTHING
HAND-MADE / DESIGNER
Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van
Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925
1495
Gayavietnam.com
Clothing is designed and
tailor-made by renowned
designer Romyda Keth, and
concentrates mainly on
womens wear. Gaya sells
colourful, sexy evening
dresses, embroidered floral
skirts and cute chiffon tops.
THUY NGA DESIGN
BUSINESSWEAR / CASUAL
19-21 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3820 3574
thuyngadesign.com
8am to 8pm
COOKING CLASSES
OVERLAND CLUB
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm
The Overland Club organises
pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
monthly special activities,
such as the Soba Festival,
pottery painting classes, the
art of decorating paper and
multinational cuisine days.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

GAYA
CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 1495
gayavietnam.com
Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II
buildings in the city, Gaya has
a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps
and tableware, with all products both constructed and
designed locally. You can
find a wide range of mirrors
and lacquerware with bowls,
vases and contemporary
Asian-style boxes as well as
a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all
colours and designs. Prices
here match the quality of the
products.
EAT
27 GRILL
GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
Besides the spectacular
views, the cuisine at 27 Grill
is a real draw, with steaks
and other international
grill-style fare in a refined
yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and
an extensive wine list make
up the mix.
CAF IF
VIETNAMESE FRENCH
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3846 9853
MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a
French twist, cooked fresh
to order. Dishes include noo-
dle soup, steamed ravioli and

beef stew, stir fries, hot pots
and curries.
COBALT
ROOFTOP RESTOBAR
Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon
Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686
pullman-saigon-centre.com
A tapas-style contemporary
international menu in an
equally modern chic space,
Cobalt also has panoramic
views over the city thanks to
its 30th-floor location. Has a
focus on wine matching and
tasting. A hotel restaurant
with a difference.
COM TAM THUAN KIEU
COM TAM (BITTY RICE)

26 Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 0935
comtamthuankieu.com.vn
DYNASTY
CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Elegant surroundings, top
quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable,
roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese
restaurants in town, with a
classic dim sum menu.
LION CITY
SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery,
plating up the likes of nasi
lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well
as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish
HCMC
head curry.
MAY RESTAURANT
INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE
3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08)
3910 1277
May-cloud.com
Meaning Cloud, May utilises homemade recipes
and broths developed by the
restaurateurs father, such
as pan-fried duck breast
served with nuoc mam and
ginger, and 1940s style
spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in
an Indochine atmosphere.
MONSOON
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)
6290 8899
Traditional pan-Southeast
Asian favourites served in
a visually arresting setting
within a French colonial-era
villa, just minutes from the
backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy
juices and smoothies.
NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE
AMERICAN / FRENCH
2527 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373
steakhouse.com.vn
NYSW is well known for
serving up formidable prime
signature cuts of New York
strip steak, rib eye, double
strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.
QUAN UT UT
AMERICAN VIETNAMESE GRILL

168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 4500
quanutut.com
On-site American grilltype fare in a Vietnamese,
wooden table setting. Think
ribs, burgers and all things
hearty at this immensely
popular eatery.
PARKVIEW
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Flagship restaurant of The
New World Hotel, serving
lavish buffets all day. Many
cooking stations ranging
from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads,
cold cuts, cheese plates and
desserts.
QUAN BUI
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3602 2241
Make sure to try the sauted
shrimps with cashew nuts
and crispy fried tofu with
lime wedge, at this popular,
high-quality eatery where all
food is served in traditional
crockery.
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH

DAN
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 7751

STAR FITNESS GYM
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91
Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253
Steve Chipman, who had a
hand in establishing gyms
at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness one of
Vietnams largest and bestequipped gyms.
THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & POOL

Ruby Towers Saigon
Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514
9009
saigonriverclub.com
GALLERIES
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3925 1990
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel:

0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Located in a quiet corner
of District 1, Craig Thomas
Gallery offers a compelling
mix of up-and-coming and
established local artists. In
operation since 2009, its
founder has been promoting
Vietnamese art for a decade.
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 4545
Well-regarded clinic offering
general examinations and
specialising in pediatrics,
digestive diseases, cardiology, womens health and
internal medicine. Offers a
membership programme
and cooperates with most
insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.
SAN ART
WE LINK
CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY
3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel:

(08) 3840 0183
San-art.org
San Art is an independent,
artist-run exhibition space
that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an
exchange programme that
invites international artists/
curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
SALONS & SPAS
CITYSMART
Horizon Tower, 214 Tran
Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3526 8833
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills
and character building for
comprehensive development.
GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF

VIETNAM
Somerset Chancellor Court,
1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
7008
gymboreeclasses.com.vn
re.com
MEDICAL
COUNSELLING
64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 2900
contact@welink.vn
Psychological counselling services for individual,
group and family. Diverse
counsellors and therapists,
using Cognitive Behaviour
Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For
adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French
and Spanish spoken.
& DENTAL

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
CAT MOC SPA

63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)
6295 8926
catmocspa.com
Aimed exclusively at ladies
and couples only, treatments
at this Japanese spa include
facial, body and foot care,
and Japanese-style haircuts,
as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.
SPA TROPIC
79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910

5575
spatropic.com
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean
Consulate. Spa Tropic has
a long-standing reputation
among expats and visitors
alike for its professional
quality service.
HCMC
district 2
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS

& FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR &
WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL /
SALONS & SPAS
DISTRICT 2
i
Ni
g
H n
Bn
Thao Dien
Qu
Located in a villa-style
building, this An Phu-based
shop stocks antique repro
furniture. All products are
samples, so its limited and
exclusive with only one or
two pieces of each particular
item. Also has a great range
of imported fabrics up on the
2nd floor and an in-house
sewing room for cushions,
sofas and curtains. Offers
custom-made furniture and
delivery within four weeks.
Home dcor orders are also
available.
Ng
uy
n
V
n
Xa
Binh Thanh
Ngu
o
ng
c H
Qu
n
N
y
Xun Th
y
Xun Th
Hu Cnh
BAKERIES
BAKEUP ATELIER
BAKERY
Tel: (08) 6281 8392
The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien,
Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries
such as croissants, pain au
chocolat, pain raisins, pizza
dough, pates feuillete and
much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc,
Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and
Ho Chi Minh City.
LOAVES & FISHES
BAKERY / CAFE
5, Street 11, Thao Dien, Q2
Tel: (08) 3519 4118
harvestbaking.net
PAT A CHOU
FRENCH BAKERY
25 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3743 2445
VOELKER
BAKERY
6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
Frenchrun bakery selling
probably the tastiest range
of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passionfruit tart is
a must try.
BARS & CLUBS

BAAN THAI
g
n Hon
n
uy
Ng
SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE
DISTRICT 2
Th
Ni
nh
Song H
Nguy
n No
Xa
Xa
nh
Song H
Tr
Binh Thanh
No
Trn
Mai Ch
ng
H
y n Vn
Th
CHI LAI
HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese
furniture brand is a good
choice for most families
with its respected high-quality designs and competitive
prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and
Dien Bien Phu, the spacious
showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such
as table sets, shelves and
kitchen cabinets. There is a
large selection of carpets as
well as numerous choices of
curtains and accessories.
FEELING TROPIC
3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
A bar and a Thai restaurant
all in one, the focus here is
not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live
sports. Lots of live sports.
The Thai cuisine is cooked
up by no-holds-barred Thai
chefs.
BMV PUB & GRILL

38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel:
01299 839314
facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill
With its seven TVs, full-size
mezzanine area, pool table
and aircon lounge space,
BMV is the perfect place in
District 2 to relax and watch
the sports. Has live music on
Thursday and Friday nights,
and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in
Thao Dien.
BUDDHA BAR
RESTOBAR
3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
Just across the lane from
McSorleys, this pub with an
eccentric European tilt and
some nice, authentic cuisine
draws an older crowd with
darts, pool and weekly poker
tourneys.
MCSORLEYS
IRISH BAR
4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126
9026006
Standing in the former home
of Gaudi, McSorelys is full of
surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool,

reggae parties, comedy
nights, and sporting events
projected onto the patio wall.
SAIGON OUTCAST
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAF BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com
Up-cycling and innovative
design form the foundation
for this bar / arts venue /
mini- skate park. Come for
barbeque and reasonably
priced drinks, stick around
for entertaining events and
adorable puppies.
THE FAN CLUB
SPORTS BAR
Ground Floor, The Vista,
628C Hanoi Highway, Q2
dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub
12 quality screens and eight
draught beers, music spun
by DJs, excellent burgers,
quiz nights and barbecues.
All in an attractive, contemporary environment.
CAFES
AGNES CAFE
COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable cafe
in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat,
smoothies, juices, pastries
and desserts all day. Offers
a western-fare breakfast,
lunch and dinner menu with
a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with

salads and more typical
international cuisine. Now
open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed
and intimate.
CAF EVITA
LAID-BACK CAF / RESTAURANT

230A Nguyen Van Huong,
Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512
3888

LITTLE ANH-EM
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: 0917 567506
In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies
and children up to 10 years
old, Little Anh-Em stocks
sleeping bags and other accessories.
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

AUSTIN HOME
REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 0023
austinhomeinteriors.com
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181
8am to 6pm, closed Sundays
Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this
three-storey building is so
packed full of items for sale
that it doesnt seem to have
enough space for all of its
products. The basement
storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets,
while the second level stocks
all types of indoor furniture
except beds. Accessories
are found on the level above.
Special orders are taken for
delivery within three weeks.
Also offers a rental service.
THE FURNITURE HOUSE
HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643
EAT
AGNES CAF
CAF FARE / TEX-MEX

11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable caf
offering up a western-fare
breakfast, lunch and dinner
menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in
with salads and more typical
international cuisine. Open
until 10pm.
BAAN THAI
PAN-THAI
3744 5453
SHOPPING MALLS
DIAMOND PLAZA
34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08)
3825 7750
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel:
(08) 2222 0383
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
PARKSON PLAZA
35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3827 7636
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
SAIGON CENTRE
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)
3829 4888
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
SAIGON SQUARE
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,
Q1
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics
SAIGON TAX
Trading Centre
135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3821 3849
9am to 9.30pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics, Souvenirs,
Restaurant
VINCOM CENTER
70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3936 9999
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
ZEN PLAZA
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel:
(08) 3925 0339
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
baanthai-anphu.com
Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this
An Phu eatery. The menu
has a whole page dedicated
to tom yum soup as well
as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine
cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.
HCMC
SPORTS
BOAT HOUSE
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790
Live music, mini-festivals and
functions are regular events
at this spacious restobar in
An Phu on the banks of the
Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.
LA CLOSERIE DELISA
CRICKET
ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET
CLUB OF SAIGON)
Richard Carrington, Tel:
0909 967 353
richard.carrington@market-edge.asia
eccsaigon.com
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF

SAIGON)
Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228
770 038
deepteshgill@gmail.com
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN

SAIGON)
Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
973 244
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON

CRICKET CLUB)
Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail.
com
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA

CRICKET CLUB)
Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903
998 824
SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM
SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)
Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB)

Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908
200 598
manish@ambrij.com
FOOTBALL
AND
RUGBY
024 or Viet Luu 0909 500

171.
astere@hotmail.fr
SAIGON RAIDERS
Saigonraiders.com
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
saigonrugbyfootballclub@
yahoo.com
SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
SPORTS GENERAL
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS

LEAGUE
thesidl.com
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL

CLUB
saigonshootersnetball.
blogspot.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
SQUASH
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext 176
TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

436A/33 Ba Thang Hai,
Q10, Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn
AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van

Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com
XROCK CLIMBING
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON
7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,

Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
Contact Fred on 0919 709
FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT

52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2
A tropical garden ambience
that is at once French yet
contemporary Indochinese
is the home of this table
dhote style restaurant and
bar. Classic French cuisine
at reasonable prices in the
heart of Thao Dien.
LA PLANCHA
(08) 6281 8521
LU BU
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08)
6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
Drawing inspiration from
the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean
and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run
restaurant bathed in white
focuses on wholesome,
fresh ingredients, with
breads, cheeses, pickles,
pastas and preserves made
on site daily from scratch. A
well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.
Has petanque on the terrace.
Saturday evenings. Have a

second restaurant in Mui Ne.
THE DECK
MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon
River across from Thanh
Da Island, this innovative
restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a
Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails
and a long wine list.
THE LOOP
HEALTHY CAF FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)
3602 6385

AQUAFIT
AQUABIKING
65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao
Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
008985
aquafit.vn
K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY
BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS

100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: 0909 540030
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS
(08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also
offering fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes

include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving caloriecalibrated meals.
CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER
BOXING / FITNESS
49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel:
0947 771326
cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An Phu,
started by fitness guru Cyril
Terrones, features the same
personalised mentorship
Cyrils clients love. Includes
Zumba, salsa, boxing and
fitness for kids and adults
every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes
in installments of 10. Also
has kids classes. Boxing on
Tuesday and Saturday at
4pm and circuit training on
Thursday at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril
himself.
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE

100%
MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES

26B Thao Dien, Q2
100percentvn.com
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2630
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from the
likes of Fauchon. The deli
upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung
branch serves tasty baguette
rolls in a comfortable lounge
area with free WiFi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured
meats in town. Free delivery
for Districts 1, 2 and 3.
CLASSIC FINE FOODS
GROCERIES & IMPORTER

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street),
Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the citys five
star hotels, also distributing
brands like San Pellegrino,
Rougie foie gras, Galbani
cheese, fresh poultries,
meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all
the products at the gourmet
shop on location.
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP
Corner of Thao Dien & Duong
2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
MEKONG MERCHANT
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE /

SEAFOOD
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6478
info@mekongmerchant.com
The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the
place in An Phu. Set around
a cobble-stoned courtyard
the cuisine includes gourmet
seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.
PAPAGAYO
FRENCH BISTRO / COCKTAILS

(08) 6252 1333
facebook.com/papagayosaigon
TAMAGO
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag
in Thao Dien, Tamago has
indoor and out door seating,
a terrace and private rooms.
They have a ladies night on
Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on
HCMC
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines
with a portfolio spanning
old and new world as well
as everything in between.
The outdoor terrace area is
the perfect spot to sample a
new tipple.
HAIRDRESSERS
ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON
HAIR & BEAUTY
Fideco Riverview Building,
3744 6475
anthony@aglondonsalon.
com.vn
CONCEPT COIFFURE
(08) 3519 4625
Conceptcoiffure.vn
Open daily from 9am to 8pm
Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship
salon Venus Coiffure to a villa
in Thao Dien. A full range of
services is offered including
a dedicated kids salon.
and IB Diploma Programme

(DP).
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (BIS)
Tel: (08) 3744 2335
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved
by the British Government,
BIS provides a British style
curriculum for an international student body from
pre-school to Year 13. The
school is staffed by British
qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by
the Council of International
Schools and a member of
FOBISIA, BIS is the largest
international school in Vietnam.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI

MINH CITY (ISHCMC)
(08) 3898 9100
ishcmc.com
The only fully authorized IB
World School in Ho Chi Minh
City, ISHCMC has been
awarding graduates with an
IB Diploma and sending them
off to high-profile overseas
universities since 1999.
MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS)
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao
Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam.
Tel: (08) 7300 7257
info@eishcmc.com
www.eishcmc.com
Located in the heart of Thao
Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School
Ho Chi Minh City offers a
supportive and challenging
academic education from
Early Years to Grade 12
based on the IB curriculum.
EIS is a Nobel Talent School
and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school
educates global citizens to
enjoy learning, inquiring and
caring for others.
AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (AIS)
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744
6960; Thu Thiem Campus,
264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West
Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International
School is an IB World School
with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering
an international education
from kindergarten to senior
school with the IB Primary
Years Programme (PYP),
Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE)
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage childrens engagement with
their surroundings, MIS
offers children from age
three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as
a variety of extracurricular
activities.
SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL

CHILDCARE CENTRE
15 Street 12, perpendicular
to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
3740 8081
saigonkidskindergarten.
com
SKECC has evolved over 10
years to create a creative,
playful learning environment for children ages two
to six. Limited class sizes and
highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for
all students.
SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL
Residential Area No. 5,
Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge
International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates
Montessori methods into
nursery and kindergarten
programmes to create a
stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes
allow experienced teachers
to cater to individual needs.
SMARTKIDS
1172 Thao Dien Compound,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare
centre provides children
ages 18 months to six years
with a high quality education
in a playful and friendly environment.
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL

OF VIETNAM
172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
theamericanschool.edu.vn
KIDS
FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
www.firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for
two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training
wheels or stabilisers, and
support proper balance development.
MEDICAL & DENTAL

3744 2000
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
GREGORY BEALE
THERAPY
01268 654 202
gregbealetherapyfitness.
com
SALONS & SPAS

AUTHENTIC SPA
Thao Dien Village, Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744
2222
AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON
104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,

Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321
district 3
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES /

CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS /
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
BARS & CLUBS
ACOUSTIC
LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3930 2239
Though only 1km from the
city centre, Acoustic is well
off most foreigners radars.
Come see the Vietnamese
house band play nightly, as
well as performances from
overseas bands and guest
artists.
CLOUD 9
LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE

6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong
Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel:
0907 502951
CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS
LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE

224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948
031323
WOODSTOCK BAR
MUSIC BAR / CAFE

39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3.
Tel: (08) 39304075
metallicbar.com
Showcases a variety of different types of music anything from rock, pop and rap
to Latino as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica,
Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana
and Guns n Roses. Covered
live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music
starts at 8.30pm.
PLAN B
CONTEMPORARY BAR
0987 684761
INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building
with an outdoor courwrd,
the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to
relax. The mouth-watering
western menu is on the expensive side.
OPERATION: TEAROOM
TEA ROOM
335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3,
Tel: 0169 3583563
operationteavietnam.com
Traverse a wooden bridge
over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000,
in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware
available for purchase.

BAM SKATE SHOP
SKATEWEAR / STREET
0903 641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BOO
STREETWEAR
187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3
boo.vn
CRAFTS
Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba

Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822
4866
Located on the 20th floor
with stunning views of the
city, houses an upscale,
contemporary interior and
an outdoor terrace. A good
venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip
ambience.
ROCKFANCLUB BAR
CAFES & ICE-CREAM

ANS INTERIOR CAF
40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3823 3398
BUDS
ICE-CREAM PARLOUR
relaxation after a long day

at work.
REMIX DECO
HIDEAWAY
& FURNITURE
ONTOP BAR
ROCK BAR
25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08)
6290 7489
simply email us on
well try our best

Tel: (08) 3932 2778
budsicecream.com.vn
ATC FURNITURE
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08)
39326455
SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)
38403946
atc-craft.com
Filled with the scent of
nature, is it what you are
looking for to spice up the
living space of your home?
Come to ATC FURNITURE,
you will find a wide range of
modern-designed products
(sofas, chairs, beds...) manufactured from eco-friendly
materials (water hyacinth &
rattan). Our outdoor (poly
rattan) wicker-furniture
range is suited to your balcony or garden space. A
hanging (hammock) chair
is irresistible for complete
INDOOR FURNITURE
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com
EAT
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN / BUFFET
3820 7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Latino ambiance with great
meat dishes and attractive,
spacious dcor. The churrasco, with 12 cuts of barbecued and cured meats
plus unlimited salad, is hand
carved at your table. Can
get busy.
BANH CANH HOANG TY
BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
Namsonsteak.com
HIGHWAY 4
NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE
3602 2069
highway4.com
Named after the mountain
highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to
the north, Highway 4 serves
up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does
excellent Son Tinh branded
rice wine.
JOIE DE VIVRE
WESTERN / FRENCH
292/10, Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066
facebook.com/joie.vn
PHO HOA
PHO EATERY
260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3829 7943
SHRI
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower,
7274 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
A breezy terrace, indoor
bar and separate dining
room with sweeping views
over central Saigon make
up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought
out and romantic venue, with
excellent food.
HCMC
TIB
HUE / VIETNAMESE
(08) 3829 7242
Tibrestaurant.com.vn
VIET CHAY
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MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY
YOGA
Tel: 0909 648193
michelle@michellelloyd.com
michellelloyd.com
American trained and licensed massage therapist
and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and
massage spaces in Districts
2 and 3. Private and group
yoga classes. Home visits
available.
SAIGON BELLY DANCE
BELLY DANCE
No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do
Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832
9429
saigonbellydance.com
YKC HAIR STUDIO

(08) 3829 2791
programmes, as well as life

skills and character building
for comprehensive development.
VAS
98 Cach Mang Thang Tam,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278
vas.edu.vn
MEDICAL & DENTAL

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC
CITYSMART
7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational
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INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
The worlds leading provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7
emergency care. Specialist
care is available in many
fields.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

H
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HAIRDRESSERS
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Tr
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VEGAN
Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
vietchay.vn
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SUSHI / SASHIMI
53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh
Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930
0039
sushidiningaoi.com
Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi,
sashimi, and other dishes
such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles
in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set
lunches. Probably the best
sushi in town.
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Th
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INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC

MEDICAL CLINIC
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District 1
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Tr
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Ng
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Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com
Globally renowned provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare
offers full dental services
in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide
high skilled dental service.
Orthodontics is also available.
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DISTRICT 3
Binh Thanh

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222
starlightdental.net
Longestablished, modern
clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese
dentists. A favourite of the
foreign residential community due to its modern and
effective treatments allied
with extremely reasonable

prices.
AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC
CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
A clinic provides world class
Chiropractic, Physiotherapy
and Foot Care. We specialize
in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee
pain, sports injuries, and all
types of foot problems. We
also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome
in children and adult.
INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL

CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1
Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908
453 338
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
HOSPITAL
EASTERN MEDICINE
Tel: (08) 3932 6579
SALONS & SPAS

AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
YKC SPA
(08) 3829 2791
ykcspa.com
HCMC
STUDENT EYE
SENIOR YEAR
eens love to be on top especially

being in the oldest gang, the seniors
of their school. Seniors always seem
somewhat different, a bit special
and maybe even privileged. Well for a start,
they are given the whole common room to
themselves, a lounge where they can study,
eat and hang out with their friends. And
there seem to be many other perks, starting
from some of the most trivial things like
getting to sit in the front row during school
assemblies, or having their tests graded
before the other classes. And for juniors,
the idea of finally taking over the spots of
the seniors seems very exciting.
But a couple of weeks into senior year,
this glamorous image that the juniors used
to dream of has faded a little. Turns out
seniority isnt as fun as it once seemed.
Top of the Food Chain

First of all, the ex-juniors have now
pressfoto.com
become the people that they once looked

up to. This may sound like a great
accomplishment, but this also means there
isnt anyone they can look up to, who
they can follow. For younger students, the
near future is much more comprehensible
they can just look at what the upper
grade levels are like. But when they
become seniors and reach the top of the
pyramid, their future seems much more
obscure. And not knowing what could
happen next is often quite frightening
for teens, as well as the fact that they are
subject to the eyes of the whole school
community.
But senior year is also frightening for
other reasons. Teens usually imagine
this time to be the time when life finally
makes sense, when they finally find
themselves or at least thats what its
supposed to be. But really, many of these
young teens, who are only 17 or 18, have
no idea what they want to study, which

university they want to go to, or what
they want to become in the future. Like
the assignments they once faced, the
deadlines of all of these nerve-wracking
life decisions seem to have suddenly
taken a huge step closer.
After 12 years of elementary school,
middle school and high school, you
would expect teens to be extzremely
thrilled to graduate. This part is true, but
these feelings may be mixed with other
not-so-exciting elements.
Theyll refuse to admit it, but in the
corner of their hearts, they will hesitate to
leave school, wishing to stay back a little
longer and delay the huge wave of life.
Now theyre only a step away from reality
and all the intimidating responsibilities
that will be thrown at them as soon as
they step out of the stronghold of senior
year. Tae Jun Park
HCMC
complexs lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a
gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track
their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash
courts, pool, steam bath and
nutrition bar.
phu my hung
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE
& YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL
ng
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ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

(ABCIS)
Nguyn c C
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Nguyn Vn
INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS

206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel:
01654 058401 / 01629
546534
cezsaigon@gmail.com
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PANORMA FITNESS
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DISTRICT 7
PHU MY HUNG
BAKERIES
LAMOUR
BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn
SAVOURE
BAKERY
Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7
SIMRANS
BAKERY
SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908
828552
simrans.sg
BARS & CLUBS

BANANA BAR
EXPAT BAR
SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3282
A downstairs pool table, an
open, street side terrace and
specials on Tiger draft, this
fun but slightly run-down
joint is a local haunt for many
a resident of Saigon South.
PEACHES
CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
0999
Known as the Curry Pub,
this pleasant Saigon South
watering hole mixes the beer
with all things curry anything from Goan fish curries
to beef rendangs and more.
A popular local haunt.
RUBY SOHO
CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 3900
THE TAVERN
EXPAT & SPORTS BAR

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang
Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
3900
The first bar established in
Saigon South, great food,
great music and loads of
laughs. Has regular live
music nights, theme nights
and a variety of live sports
events to please everybody.
Big screens and outdoor
seating add to the mix, with
BBQs available for parties
and events.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton
Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413
7355
bellavitafurniture.com
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110; S17 Sky
Garden, Nguyen Van Linh,
Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758
mekong-creations.org
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen
Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271
7758
mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6657
www.nhaxinh.com
EAT
BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON
INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and
bar on The Crescent with
great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned
international fare, all set in
a contemporary, spacious
environment.
CHAM CHARM
LUXURY INDOCHINA
2 Phan Van Chuong, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 9999
EL GAUCHO
Unit CR1-12, The Crescent,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304
MING DYNASTY
LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE

23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 5555
NATHALIES
THAI / VIETNAMESE
S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 0822
nathaliesrestaurant.com
SALT & PEPPER
PAN-ITALIAN
The Crescent, Phu My Hung,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 4848
SCOTT AND BINHS
INTERNATIONAL
15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948
901465
bizuhotel.com/main/pages/
scottbinhs.php
Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this
restaurant boasts a full bar,
ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus
on the creative use of local
ingredients.

CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My
Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277
The-crescent.com
Overlooking the Crescent
Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08)

5431 1833; Saigon South
Campus 2 (Foundation Stage
& Early Primary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833
theabcis.com
Rated as outstanding by
British government inspectors, academic results puts
ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide.
Provides education for two
to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.
CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
13C Phong Phu Commune,
Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412
3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam
serves local and foreign
students from Kindergarten
to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the
internationally recognised
Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting
academic excellence.
KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE

Crescent Residence 2, 107
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907
099 480
kindermusik-vietnam.com
LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL

KINDERGARTEN
102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052
lgkids.vn
RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL SAIGON
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7,
Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext
120/121/122
renaissance.edu.vn
Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum
based upon the British curriculum complemented by
the International Primary
Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a
family school with first-class
facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool,
mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and

drama rooms, science labs
and an all-weather pitch.
SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (SSIS)
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
Offers an American-style
education (SAT, IB and AP)
from elementary to highschool, emphasizing a multicultural student environment and a commitment to
wellrounded education at
all levels.
MEDICAL & DENTAL
AMERICAN EYE CENTER

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7
Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759
www.americaneyecentervn.
com
American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My
Hung, providing eye care
services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist
with 17 years of experience.
The American-standard
facility is equipped with
state of the art equipments
for the early detection and
treatment of important eye
diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic
eye disease treatments.
Cosmetic procedures such
as eyelid surgery and Botox
injections are also available.
FV HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 3333
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital
whose standard of health
care matches that found
anywhere, with 19 fulltime
French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing
expertise in 30 medical and
surgical areas, especially
maternity care.
HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,
Tel: 0906 684 969
simply email us on
well try our best
Nhng bo tng
b qun lng
H Ni c nhiu bo tng nm ri rc khp ni. Trong s , c nhng ci chng ta cha bao
gi nghe n c. Lucy Sexton ti thm ba trong s nhng bo tng t ngi bit n ny
nghe nhng cu chuyn qu kh m chng khoc ln mnh. nh bi Julie Vola
rn con ph L Thng Kit, nhng

ngi i lm mi bui sng vn cn ang
ngi ng, do vy h d dng b qua a
ch s 67 l mt ta nh khoc tm o
mu vng c trng nh bao ngi nh H Ni.
i vi nhng ngi khch du lch khu ph c
Hng Bc, mt h thng ca g ti mu cng khng
to nn s khc bit trong chui nhng ngi nh
tng chng nh bt tn v c mt tin chng my
c sc. Nhng nhng a ch ny thng t khi
khin bn bn khon hay t m v chng. Thc
ra, chng l nhng bo tng khim tn nm trong
nhng gc nh rt bnh thng ca thnh ph. H
Ni c ri rc nhng bo tng nh th.
C nhng bo tng ni ting nht th gii v mt
s l do hin nhin: h c nhng b su tp honh
trng, nhng bui trin lm c phong cch, ni
dung hp dn, c nhng ta nh mang ti cm gic
bn ang sng trong lch s, v h c cch tip th
tt. Th cn nhng bo tng khng ai bit ti th
sao, nhng ni b chn vi trong nhng chic m
bng , dy leo mc kn v kh thi?
Chng c ang lu tr nhng bu vt khng?
Chng c xng ng c lu khng? Ti i tm
li gii cho nhng cu tr li ny trong sut my
ngy thng qua cc din n x hi, qua li bn
b, v dnh hng gi ln quanh H Ni.
2 gi chiu trong mt bui chiu th 6 oi bc,
ti n s nh 67 trng hon ton vng v. Mt tm
bin ghi ch Bo tng mi gi ti vo. Ti n
y mt vi ln ri. Mt ln l vo ba tic ngy
thiu nhi. Ln khc l dp ti ni chuyn vi ch
Giang, th k ca th vin xin php c vo
thm bo tng. V ln th 3 ny, ti thc s c

chim ngng v p ca n.
Bo Tng Cng An
Suy ngh u tin ca ti v Bo tng Cng An H
Ni l n s th hin c s tn ti t ngi bit
n ca mnh. H nhn qua nhng cnh ca knh
vung trong ln n thm trc, ti thy c hai snh
c treo cc bc tranh. Tht ngc nhin khi bc
vo v ti nhn ra bo tng ny ln hn ti tng
tng rt nhiu. Mc d khng th tm thy mt t
ting Anh no, bo tng vn lm ti hiu c phn
no qua cc bc nh, nhng bc tng sp nh,
nhng chic n pin, v c nhng chic my to
khng kh v nhng hnh ma-n-canh mc ng
phc. Nhng chic phng ny c gn gi cn
thn v sp xp theo th t thi gian theo nhng s
kin lch s v nhng anh hng dn tc, vi mt vi
n anh hng tiu biu trong cc s kin .
C mt bc tng c dnh ton b ni v
c Nguyn Th Li, mt trong s n trinh st him
hoi v hy sinh nm 1950 khi c cho lm n tung
chic tu chin ca Php DInville nh cht n ci
trang l thuc phin cha trong mt va li bun lu.
Kh c th ni ci no n tng hn gia s kin
hy sinh hay thc t v hot ng bun bn thuc
phin t do ny ca Php.
c xy dng vo nm 2008, Bo Tng Cng
An lu gi khong 1000 ti liu v nh. Nhng bc
nh c la chn hi ln xn ny to cm gic
nh mt album i gia nh: nhng ngi ln tui
bt tay k kt ti nhng hip c c tnh lch s,
nhng khonh khc c gng to s hi hc ca cc
s quan cng an, nhng bc nh cc em b c

sinh ra t cnh nhng bc ni v ti phm.
Bo tng ny c xy dng phc v cho
nhng ngi cnh st v mi ngi ti xem, Giang
ni vi ti. y l ni cc chin s hc c v
truyn thng ngnh v cng l ni tn vinh nhng
thnh tu ca h.
Mc d vo c bn trong, ti cn phi c s
cho php bi cnh st nhng chng ti c th thc
hin thng qua cn b qun l khu vc ti c quan
ti h cho n tt c mi ngi thc s c mong
mun c thm quan. Nu c nhng bc nh treo
trn tng khin bn cm thy k cc th hy ngh
n gin rng, cng nh vi gia nh vy, chng ta
thng nhn thy nhng im thiu hon ho trong
qu kh ca mnh. y khng phi l lc nh
gi m nn l lc nm bt c hi hiu thm v cch
nhng ngi cng an nhn nhn v chnh mnh.
Khi bui thm bo tng ca ti n hi kt thc,
ti nghe thy ting bng bn ang c nh u
v ting mit giy th thao. l hai ngi cnh
st v hu v mt chic bn bng bn trong phng
gii lao ca th vin. H nhanh chng gi ghm
c, ct b qun o y m hi vo trong ti tp ca
mnh ri thn mt bt tay nhau v ra v, li ta
nh s 67 vi s vng v thng thy.
Bo tng Kim Hon

Sau chuyn ngao du ti Bo tng Cng An, ti
mun ti mt ni no khc m d dng tip cn
hn. Nm n mnh trong mt ni gin d gia con
ng ng c xe c ph c, nh Kim Ngn
cha ng mt cu chuyn th v v nhng ngi
lm ngh kim hon xa. Khng phi ni ting v

b su tp cc ch tc hay nhng bc tranh sn
du, cu chuyn v s hnh thnh t thi c nt v
khi c gy dng li ca ngi nh ny li l im
thu ht chnh.
H Ni hay Thng Long th ca Vit Nam
vi nhiu bin chuyn v c rt nhiu tn gi.
Nhng n lun c bit n vi c im l trung
tm bun bn t xa. Ngi nh ny c sinh ra
bi nhu cu bun bn vo th k 15. nh c ba
mc ch l phc v hnh chnh, vn ha v tn
ngng. y l ni trung tm v kt ni ba mc
ch ny ca lng ngh th cng. nh Kim Ngn
ph Hng Bc l ni bun bn nhng thi bc, dy
ngh luyn kim, v l ni dn lng th cng t tin
ca lng ngh. Khng r chnh xc ngi nh ny
c xy dng khi no nhng n c s dng
phc v nhng mc ch trn qua rt nhiu nm,
v sau ny thm mt s hot ng na nh gio
dc, y t v c tp hun qun s. Nm 2009, ngi
nh ny b hng nhiu v tn ti qu lu v b
ln chim bi 25 h dn. Vi s gip ca chnh
quyn thnh ph Toulouse, Php v thnh ph H
Ni, ngi nh ny c khi phc mt ln
na n phc v ng mc ch l thc y nhng
hot ng trao i vn ha v tn ngng.
Vo mt s ngy, ngi nh ny m ca ti x
chiu thu ht mt hai khch l t b ht hn
bi hng khi v nhng nt nhc pht ra t y.
Trong cn phng pha trong, thy Bch Vn cng
vi mt vi ngh s na ct ln nhng vn th
v tnh yu v nhng tn tht hong tc. Ca Tr,
mt loi hnh m nhc vi ba nhc c ti gin, l
mt trong nhng cch ngi nh ny tip cn mi
ngi cc la tui. Bn cng c th chi mt vi
giai iu v ni chuyn vi nhng ngh s sau bui
biu din. Ti khng mun ri khi y mt cht
no v khng h ho hng quay li m thanh
ca con ph Hng Bc hin i vi nhng ting
ci, tp m ca du khch nc ngoi v th nh
sng cha tng tn ti thi k khi ngi nh
c sinh ra. Nhng bo tng tt l nhng ci c
s thay i v nh Kim Ngn khng phi l
mt ngoi l.
Bo tng ca nhng con th nhi

Trng i hc Khoa hc T nhin c mt kin
trc Php c xy dng nm 1904 mang nhiu d
m ca qu kh. tng trn cng, Bo tng ng
vt nm trn mt mi vm bng gch gm s v
nm cnh nhng chic ca knh cao hai tng trng
kh chng mt. Lc ny, ti ch mun nhn ngm
nhng ngi sinh vin ang hi h i qua nhng
khung ca s v m mng, nhng ti tip tc
nhng nc thang vi nhng b xng voi ang
nhn xung t trn cao v ti gp c ng V
Ngc Thanh. y l ngi ph trch bo tng, gio
s, chuyn gia bo tn, nh nghin cu linh trng,
v gim c ca mt t chc quc t, l mt ngi
nh b nhng mnh m v tn ty vi cng vic,
v l ngi m n ci ca ng khng giu ni tr
thng minh v tn ca mnh.
Ging nh nhng nh khoa hc tn ty, ng
Thanh t m, ch trng vo qu trnh ca vic lm
v lun lun t m vi nhng cu hi. ng bt u
a ti i mt vng trong vn phng, c gng m
kha chic ca bng g c k mc d ca knh
pha trn chic tay nm ca chic ca khng
cn t lu. Cn phng vi nhng chic khay ng
dng c, nhng t bo c gp li v nhng chic
l ng formaldehyde sng la. Khng c gng t
ra dng cm, ng Thanh ni vi ti v nhng giai
on c nt v thiu tu sa, lm gim s lng

khch thm quan bo tng, v i khi nhng
lc ng lm vic qu nhiu n ni phi ng li
trong vn phng. L ngi c u c thc t, ng
Thanh chia s mt cch thng thn nhng khng
c s nn n y. Khi ti hi lm th no ng
c th cn bng gia cng vic v vic qun l
bo tng ny, ng tr li rt nhanh rng: Nghin
cu lun lun c u tin. Hay ni cch khc,
nhng con th lun lun c u tin.
Chuyn thm quan ca ti tip tc vi nhp
iu d chu. Nhng chic phng c cht y
bi nhng con gu c nhi xc, b st ngm,
v nhng ch chim bm cht vo cnh vi nhng
mng vut t thi tin s. Nhng mu vt ny
hoc l c thu thp bi ng Thanh, hoc l
mn qu bo tng nhn c trong c th k
qua; tt c chng u mang trong mnh nhng
cu chuyn th v. Nu bn c c hi n y, ti
khuyn bn nn hi ng v cu chuyn hai ch
chim cnh ct c ln c pha Nga tng, hay
con thn ln c bt bi Hong t Nht Bn,
ngi c cho l c thi gian sng Vit
Nam nghin cu v cng tc bo tn.
ng Thanh cng lm ti c nhng suy ngh
th v v gio dc, vn ha v nhng ro cn bi
vic thc thi lut i vi vic bo v mi trng
sng v cc loi th Vit Nam. y l nc
ng th 20 th gii v a dng sinh hc, nhng
vic bo v mi trng mnh m c trong sch
v, nhng c ti 20 phn trm nhng loi linh
trng ang trong tnh trng cc k nguy cp c
Vit Nam. Bn thn bo tng ny v ngi qun
l tn ty ca n ni ln rt nhiu v s cng
thng gia qu kh, hin ti v tng lai ca Vit
Nam. y l bo tng xng ng c ngi ta
ti thm nhiu ln tht ng bun n khng c
kinh ph thc hin iu .
Trong ln thm quan tm hiu nhng cu
chuyn ng sau nhng bo tng khp mnh ny,
ti gia hn hp ng ca ti H Ni. Ti c
cm gic xm nhp vo qu kh cm nhn
mt hng v khc m nhng chic bo tng ny
mang ti. Nhng ni ny khng gii thiu ngh
thut, vn ha, v lch s theo mt phong cch
ho nhong v d dng cm nhn. Chng i hi
khch thm quan gn kt vi nhng din bin
cng thng theo thi gian tn ti ni y, trong
tri tim ca th Vit Nam chnh l Thng
Long hay H Ni.
Thng tin
NH KIM NGN
42 Hng Bc, Hon Kim, in thoi: 0913 544876
M ca hng ngy ti 17h. Min ph. Ca tr biu
din vo th 4, th 6 v Ch Nht vo lc 20h. V
vo ca 200.000VN
BO TNG NG VT H NI
19 L Thnh Tng, Hon Kim
Ch m ca nu c hn trc. Min ph. Lin h vi
ng V Ngc Thanh qua email
vnthanh@fpt.vn hoc gi 0913 544615.
BO TNG CNG AN H NI
67 L Thng Kit, Hon Kim
M ca th 3, th 4 v th 5 t 8h30-11h sng
vo 1h30 ti 4h chiu. Min ph. Lm vic trc
tip vi c Giang yu cu vo thm quan. Bn
s nhn c cu tr li thng ch sau mt ngy.
237
Lu i C Tch
Da theo mt lot bi vit
trn blog From Saigon,
mc Nhng Ni Cha
c Bit n ca chng
ti s a bn c n
mt trong nhng a im
b b qun, ni m nhng
cu chuyn ca n gp
phn to dng nn b mt
ca thnh ph. nh minh
ha bi Lys Bi
L Thnh Cng, th h th 3 sng

trng ngi nh, nm nay 83 tui.
Trong nhiu nm qua, c nhiu
nh bo, hc sinh, nh nghin cu v
khch i ng xin php c chp hnh ngi
nh ng ang . C l v th, c qu quen
thuc vi vic tip khch vng lai hi thm v
lch s ngi nh m gia nh c sinh sng. V
tui cao, k c v ngi nh phai nho trng
tm tr c. Nhng g cn st li l nhng mu
chuyn ngn khng lin mch m chng ti c
gng ghi chp li.
Vi nm trc, thn ph ca c vn cn
sng mnh kho cng vi by ngi con
chu trong ngi nh. Dng ch giy "Mng
l thng th b Nguyn Th Qu, 100 tui"
vn cn nh trn tng. Khi c b ra i, gian
phng ni c vn trng cho n nay.
gian phng chnh c t t th lm bng loi
g qu nay hn trm tui.
Cc th h
ng ni ca c, nh L Minh Tr, ngi c
cho l xy dng nn ngi nh. ng l ngi
gc An Nam min Trung Vit Nam by gi.
C chng cn nh g nhiu ngoi vic ngi nh
khng xy dng bng b tng nhng bng mt
hn hp ng v vi. Ngi nh m cht ba

rc c th hin r rt qua mi ngi cao cong
vt. Mt c im c th tm thy Kin trc
ca nh Th c B.
Cha ca c, ng L Thnh Tr, khai thc
g t rng Trng Bom, nh Qun L ng
Nai, rng ng Xoi Bnh Phc. Mc d
l ngi tip qun cng vic gia nh qun l
nghip g, nhng c Cng cha i rng khai
thc bao gi. V khi khu vc rng ln xung
quanh cn nh 237 N Trang Long bt u
thay i. T khu vc ma m vi nhng
cu chuyn v nhng xc ngi cht thi chin
c vi gn khu vc Sng Si Gn sau
1975 khu vc ln cn bt u pht trin thnh
khu vc ng dn nh ngy nay. Tng l mt
ni c c trong n in cao su, mt cnh
cng ni lin trung tm Si Gn v mt th
gii khng n nh, gi y n ch l ni trong
tr nh, nm gia ca hng Th Gii Di ng
v mt caf vn. V th gii vn xoay u bn
ngoi hng ro y dy leo ca cn nh s 237
N Trang Long. Ed Weinberg
Xem blog From Saigon ti website fromsaigon.tumblr.com. T vn ni dung t Tim
Doling. xem thm cc ti liu v lch s Vit
Nam ca anh, xin gh historicvietnam.com
GII UA H TRM
Gii thi u Le Fruit Triathlon thng Nm va qua
bin H Trm khng ch l mt ni th gin,
m gi y vi hnh nh y, An Ton B Bin H
Trm v An Ton B Bin Vit Nam s t chc
mt gii bi ua t thin vo ngy 10/8. Resort H
Trm s l khu vc t chc gii bi ua ng bin
ny vi hai gii: 500m bi v 500m chy b trn
ct, v 1km bi v 1km chy b trn ct. Tt c tin
thu c s c dng cho cc bui hun luyn bi
li t thin cho tr em do cht ui l nguyn
nhn ln nht gy t vong tr em Vit Nam v
s c gii thng t The Grand Ho Tram Strip,
California Fitness, Boomarang v nhng nh ti
tr khc cho cc nhm ua ng u.
Gii ua H Trm s bt u lc 8 gi sng
ngy 10/8 ti Resort H Trm. Ph tham gia cho
gii 500m bi/500m chy b l 750,000 ng v
950,000 ng cho gii cn li. bit thm chi tit,
xin gh trang web hotramoceanrace.weebly.com
hoc xem bi vit trang 192
Hnh nh bi Thch Bo Khanh
SN ART PHIN 6: KU GI THAM GIA

IM SCH: PHA SAU MI NGI
Cng vi Nh xut bn Tr, tc gi Lorenzo
Angeloni ng thi nh ngoi giao ca i s
qun ti H Ni ra mt cun tiu thuyt Pha
Sau Mi Ngi. Cun tiu thuyt tm l ny c
tn ting Anh l Behind The Stage, xoay quanh
cuc gp g gia hai nhn vt, mi ngi mang
theo mnh nhng vt thng ca cuc hn nhn
tht bi trc. Cuc gp g v chp ni tng nh
tr li cho h ngha trn vn ca cuc sng,
nhng h vn chu nhng m nh t qu kh.
Cu chuyn din ra Rome, nhng khung hnh
thp thong ng sau cc nt thng trm ca hai
nhn vt chnh. Ni bt ln l nhng day dt ni
tm ca hai con ngi sng trong x hi hin i
ngy nay. Bt u cun sch bng nhng u tranh
ni tm ca nhn vt nam, tc gi mun i su
phn tch, th hin nhng cm xc v nhng tn
thng ca nam nhn vt chnh, v khng nh
khng hn ph n lun lun l ngi phi chu
ng v chp nhn. Huyn Trn
D cu chuyn khng kt thc c hu, tc gi
m ra mt din n vi tn gi If I were Michi
tm dch l Nu ti l Michi n nhn nhng
tng ng gp t cc c gi Vit Nam.
Chng trnh Sn Art studio/lu tr ang chun b cho ln th 6, v ku gi cc ngh s di 35 tui

t cc nc ng Nam ng k tham gia vi hn ng k l ngy 5/8. Cng nh Phin 4 trin lm
nhm Mind, Flesh, Matter ca cc ngh s Lai Diu H, L Phi Long v Nguyn Vn Du vn s c
trng by Sn Art (3 M Linh, Bnh Thnh) cho n ngy 31/7 phin mi ny s cung cp cho cc
ngh s mt studio ngh thut v khu nh trong vng su thng, cng vi mt khon tr cp 21 triu
ng sng tc cc tc phm ngh thut d kin s c trng by vo thng 5 nm ti.
bit thm chi tit, xin gh trang web san-art.org/education/how-to-apply-for-san-art-lab-session-6,
hoc gi email v hello@san-art.org
H NI, CHY I!
i vi cc v vua thi Trung C, l hi Ty Ban Nha San
Fermin c th l mt ngy l tn gio ko di mi ngy vi
nhiu truyn thng lu i cng nhng nghi l tm linh,
nhng i vi hu ht chng ta, San Fermin c ngha l
khong thi gian cho nhng ngi tm kim mo him trn
ton th gii t tp li cho mt iu duy nht b b rt.
Vi n lc mang li mt cht hng v truyn thng
Ty Ban Nha n th nu truyn thng c ngha l
mt ci cht liu lnh do b b hc th qun bar Ty Ban
Nha The Hanoi Bicycle Collective s ch th hin iu
trn ng ph. Gii ua s bt u t Phng Quang An
gn Xun Diu t 12 gi tra ngy 6/7. Vi nhng con b
tht? Khng, tt c nhng g bn cn lm l ct dy giy v
thm mt cht ch.
The Hanoi Bicycle Collective nm ti 44, ng 31, Xun
Diu, ln u tin t chc Gii ua San Fermin Ca Nhng
Con B H Ni. bit thm thng tin v a im c th,
xin email v hanoibicycle@gmail.com
The final say

OPINION
Breaking Up Bad
An open letter to women by Alexander Mayall
Dear Women,
When it comes to you, Im no expert. You can love me or try to forget me. I might
deserve the last part. Im just A. Mayall after all what did you expect? Im not
the best and not the worst, just one man with a story you might enjoy. Its about
karma, internet dating and how I got stung by both.
or long periods of the last three

years, I have used my power as an
educated, professional foreigner for
evil instead of good. I dated you
with no intention of forming a meaningful
relationship. I lied to you about my
profession, my age, my whereabouts and
even my name if I felt like it. If we saw
each other more than once, theres a chance
I went behind your back to see other girls
then WhatsAppd you from their house. I
used social media to chat to other women,
possibly while we were face to face at
dinner, and on more than one occasion
I went directly from seeing you straight
to someone else. I was a great guy living
among you in the city. A real keeper.
Before I arrived in Saigon, Id had some
success with women. Dont scoff at this. Id
also endured failure, however, and it was
in the context of this failure that the period
of aforementioned offending occurred. No
excuses, though, I just wasnt a very nice
guy. The cock and balls of it was that my exwife was a nutcase, so I had to divorce her.
This was the breakdown of a relationship
that started with the heady euphoria
of a holiday romance, segued into visa
complications, then fell apart completely
during a slow motion roller derby train
wreck that took two years to complete. The
split was still B for brutal, and it became
part of my emotional backstory for the next
18 months. My Breaking up Bad.
After two long of expertly working this
story into every conversation I ever had,
plus all the debauchery and straight out lies,
right on cue I met someone great in Saigon.
A potential game changer, only online. My
housemate had dared me and there it was,
this attractive, smiling girl was messaging
me. So we met, and despite my reservations
about the method, she was awesome. Hot,
athletic, fun and stable. An insatiable MILF,
only with a kind heart and generous spirit
too. She had a good job and a similar history
to me, without all the debaucherous lying
bits, which I left out of my profile as well.
The relationship grew quickly, and before
I knew it, I was spending the weekends
at her upmarket apartment complex and

thinking I had it all, because I did. But
thats exactly when it changed. All of a
sudden personal moments were being
posted on Facebook. Why? Then she was
fielding questions about the long term
that made me sweat. Hmmm Ive only
known you for six weeks. At the time I wasnt
completely averse to it all, but my reptile
brain started to kick in and I became
unnecessarily paranoid about her recent
history, my own, her childs father, the
future, my goals, my job, China, the ozone
layer and pretty soon alarm bells were
ringing along my entire cerebral cortex. I
wish Id had some Xanax to deal with the
situation. Instead, I went to my drinking
buddies for advice. What do I do bro? How do
I handle this chick, man?
**********
As expats we skirt a fine line. How long
are you here for? What are you doing?
Have you just been arrested? Myriad
potentialities can prevent you from going
where only some dare to go the longterm relationship with a local lady. The
reality of my situation, at that time, was
that I couldnt in all honesty answer the
questions I would have asked myself if
I were her. Like, Whats this guy up to?
Whats his plan? Where is this going? And
how is he so incredibly handsome? Everything
was still up in the air, and as Ive learnt
since, certain women of a certain age want
stability and security.
If youre still asking yourself what youll
be doing next month and not next year,
you might not be measuring up in this
department. I wasnt, and thats the honest
truth. So, despite her declaration of love,
in hindsight it wasnt surprising that after
a couple more Q-and-As didnt quite go
the way she wanted, she pulled the pin
and quickly jumped ship onto an older,
more stable, (definitely less exciting), but
altogether more reliable charter.
At first I didnt lose it. I didnt break up
bad. I was calm blue oceans and a couple of
boozy nights out with girls Id met before

to ease the pain. So it was bulletproof me,
straight back into the selfish hedonism of
my life before this girl. But it was a facade,
and the reality of that situation quickly
sunk in when I woke up next to some
strange blonde girl, and I realised how sad
it was, and how sad Id been, and what a
great opportunity I had spurned, and why
wont she pick up my calls?!
What happened? Had my own brain
sabotaged me again? Surely she would
take me back, Im amazing. But it was
too late. 123 missed calls, 45 Facebook
messages 39 of them apologising
for the first six a bunch of flowers, a
card and one inappropriate visit to her
building werent going to change that.
Unsurprisingly, they only served as
confirmation of her decision. The steadier,
older ship had already left the port with
her in tow, not even waving goodbye.
**********
To all the single women still reading I say
sorry. To the men who choose to wield
their power like second-rate Don Drapers,
I say enjoy the ride, but remember that
eventually youll only have yourself to
answer to. For those of you who have
arrived here with your girl from home
and survived this far, I envy you. These
permutations have been sorted out for you,
and youre in a healthy, stable, committed
relationship, right? Your penis has an
owner, and even though its not you,
youre probably quite happy.
My simple advice is to be honest at
all times, and stay that way. If you break
up bad it will be sad, but remember that
youre in exactly the right place to be just
like I was before.
Yours Sincerely,
A. Mayall
The views published in this article are those
of the writer and do not in any way represent
the opinions of Word Vietnam
The final say
THE SCENE
On Transience
Here today, gone tomorrow its the story with so

many of Vietnams local expat bands. But is Vietnams
culture of transience that bad for local music?
Words by Karen Hewell
n May of this year, Word ran an issue

on the local music scene in Vietnam,
titled The Music Issue. Over 24 pages we
documented the countrys burgeoning
music scene, from recording studios to
venues to local talent. The storys bread
and butter was a roundup of 25 local bands
throughout the country that we thought,
along with talent, had one very important
thing: staying power.
One of them was Hanois quirky, expatled outfit, The Say Oms, a band with a clever
name and a violin. To us, they seemed like
the perfect musical trifecta catchy original
lyrics, oddball instrumentals and lots of
chemistry. Theyd only been around for nine
months when we featured them, but they
already seemed like seasoned pros and had
the fanbase to match.
It was pretty exciting to see an expat band
with so much promise, and we thought wed

finally found one that could make a genuine
impact on local music. These guys, we
thought, these guys will stick around. To
say the least, we were pretty confident.
And soon after, we were rewarded for our
hubris.
The Say Oms played their final show at
Cama ATK on Jun. 7, a mere month after
we had published our music story featuring
their promising future. Like a bad high
school break-up, we found out via Facebook.
The finest band in Hanoi comes back to
ATK for their final performance all together,
read the event page. As members travel
across the globe to pastures new, ATK
hosts them for a summer session and what
will undoubtedly be a very special and
memorable night.
Pastures new? But certainly they couldnt
be finished with this particular pasture.

When we interviewed them, after all,
theyd promised us trumpets. Trumpets.
Now they were doing what so many expat
bands before them had done moving on
just as theyd wooed us into starry-eyed
submission, leaving behind a citys music
scene that so desperately needed them.
At the time, it was hard not to feel a little
betrayed, but the situation wasnt anything
new. When it comes to local music and
its resident expat bands, were like jaded
divorcees. Every time we fall in love with
some hot new group and their cutesy lyrics,
guitar strumming and adorable stage antics,
theyre off flirting with another point on
a map. We found out quickly that being
a devout fan of a local expat-led band is
synonymous with heartbreak, and we
learned not to be so surprised when they
upped and left.
Scenes without Life

The trend has had a disheartening effect
on both Hanoi and Saigons music scenes,
which cant seem to hold on to any nonVietnamese act long enough to build any
kind of momentum. The fault cant even be
placed on the shoulders of the band members

themselves. Most come to Vietnam with
no plans of staying for the long haul, and
even those that do probably dont play in a
band because its an avenue to becoming an
international music sensation. Life happens,
and sometimes that means your band cant.
So, Vietnam must be forever doomed
to a constant carousel of here today, gone
tomorrow foreign musicians that will never
make any lasting impact on the country.
Right?
Not really.
Theres a fundamental flaw in how
we think about transience. By assuming
that longevity is directly proportional to
worth, we sentence any group of foreign
musicians with different life trajectories to
creative invalidation. To say that an expat
band which, say, writes 20 original songs,
plays five killer gigs and garners a hundred
dedicated fans over the span of a year and
then calls it quits for one reason or another
isnt worthwhile, then weve probably
forgotten about the whole reason people
make music.
There have been plenty of bands with
short lifespans that have created a legacy
for themselves that carried on for years,
sometimes decades, after the band broke
up. Take The Pixies, for example. After their
acrimonious split in 1993 following a
playing career of only seven years the
bands popularity mounted until they
were widely recognised as one of the most

influential bands on the alternative rock
boom in the early 1990s.
And when the band reunited in 2004, they
managed to play a sold-out reunion tour
without having been anywhere near a stage
for over a decade, and to many fans who
only started listening to their music after
their demise. Why? Because they had created
a legacy a legacy which was nurtured by
a dedicated fanbase intent on keeping their
music alive.
Not Forgotten
Theres a lesson in this for music lovers
in Vietnam. Part of the responsibility for
building a music scene with valuable foreign
contributions is squarely on the shoulders of
the fans, and not the bands. Going to every
gig that a band plays in the year that theyre
together before unceremoniously dropping
them the moment they part ways is a surefire
way to screw over any music scene. Perhaps
the problem is in the fact that the fans, too,
are usually transient but certainly through
the magic of thumb drives and the Internet,
music can be passed down through the expat
generations.
Doing something as simple as buying
an album when a band is together and
then still playing it after theyve moved on
could completely transform how expats
listen to locally grown music in Vietnam.
Taking it a step further and sharing it with
They were doing what so many bands

before them had done moving on just as
theyd wooed us into starry-eyed submission,
leaving behind a citys music scene that so
desperately needed them
incoming foreign residents could be that

much more influential.
It could be the key to a paradigm shift
that the countrys expat creative sphere
desperately needs, and a way for incoming
foreign musicians to appreciate how local
expat musicians past lives could influence
their own contributions to the scene. There
is plenty of cross over from one generation
to another, and many opportunities to pass
along some of Hanois own music legacies.
After all, who says Hanois future
residents have to go without The Say Oms
charming odes to pick-up trucks and their
inflatable giraffe mascot? They might not
have ever seen them live and on stage
and listening to them through a pair of
headphones might be a distant second to
seeing them in the flesh but its certainly
better than not hearing them at all.
Maybe 10 years down the line after
Hanois music lovers have passed down to
the citys next generation their own love of
the band The Say Oms will play a reunion
show. Maybe the audience will be a group
of expats and locals whove only heard of
them through word of mouth and hand-medown playlists. And who knows? Maybe
well finally get those trumpets we were
promised.
Do you have any thoughts or comments
on this piece? If so, please email editor@
wordvietnam.com. We look forward to hearing
from you
The last call

The Ocean Race in Ho Tram this August is raising funds to help teach local children
to swim. We speak to Pam OReilly, the woman behind Water Safety Vietnam and the
swimming lessons in the Ho Tram area that are saving peoples lives
Learning to swim
is easy when
you are young and fearless and you have
nice clean water to swim in. Vietnamese
kids have the first two items ticked but not
always the third.
When I first came here in 2011,

looking at the best ways to teach kids to
swim, locating clean water became my first
priority. This is when my association with
resorts such as Ho Tram Beach Resort began. We used their salt water pool in 2012
and 2013, brought over swim teachers from
Australia and had more than 300 local kids
complete the swim programme.
The community pool at Ho Tram

is an amazing asset for this small fishing village on the Ho Tram coast. In 2011,
parents had no concept of swimming
lessons. A consortium of business people
got together and built a community pool
The Ho Tram Water Safety Consortium.
They appointed a pool manager and now,
each day during the school holidays, 60
kids are being taught to swim by local
swim teachers. Lessons are an hour long
and each course goes for four weeks. Many
can now swim 100 metres and an interschool swim meet is planned. Competition
will be fierce!
Giving something back to the community has meant involving the people of
Ho Tram directly in our project. Local men
have been trained by Water Safety Vietnam.
These men volunteer their time to give back
to their community in the form of coaching
and helping other people to learn to swim.
Weve made the event easy
Saving lives is our absolute priority. More than 35 kids per day drown in
Vietnam! This is the third-highest rate in the
world. Water Safety Vietnam is committed to
reducing that drowning rate. UNICEF notes
that teaching children how to swim is a
proven intervention for child injury prevention, and that this could save many lives.
My hopes are that this event will
The Ocean Race is the idea of New

Zealander, Steve Meikle. When I first met
him, I was impressed by his enthusiasm and
how committed he was in assisting us at
achieving our goal. (As well as organising a
fun weekend and a motivation to get fitter!)
We chose Ho Tram Beach Resort

for the race because it has great facilities and the location is stunning. The resort is
ecologically friendly and provides a beautiful calm oasis not far from bustling Vung Tau
or Ho Chi Minh City. It is very easy to access
and affordable. The seas are normally calm
at this time of the year and the sand hard

and easy to run on.
so
you dont need any specialised equipment
or to be a seasoned triathlete or athlete. You
can choose the run or swim a distance that
suits you best. Make up a team with your
friends or work colleagues and have a great
weekend away.
raise awareness of the issue of children

drowning in Vietnam. Perhaps after a successful first year, this will become an annual
event and provide much needed funds to
continue our work.
By taking part or just being there

you will add support to a very good cause.
But more importantly, you will enjoy a fun
weekend with like-minded people interested in surf and sand, good company and
delicious seafood.
The Ocean Race takes part on Aug. 10 at Ho
Tram Beach Resort. For more information go to
hotramoceanrace.weebly.com or email Steve on
oksteven@hotmail.com. To find out about Pams
project in Ho Tram, go to watersafetyvietnam.
com or hotramwatersafety.com

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CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

010 / The Summer Break

050 / Hanois Forgotten Museums

Business gets put on hold

Lesser-known tributes to the past

011 / The Big Five

054 / The Jungle Book

Events to look out for this month

082 / Pest Control

012 / In the Ring

The animals we dont want to save

Taking the fight to Bangkok

022 / Songs, Surf and Whisky Slaps

024 / Charity of the Month

Our cover story this month is for

088 / The Hong Kong Connection

Taking stock of Saigons fishing

2 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

096 / The Insiders Guide to

100 / In Search of Meaning (on a

EAT & DRINK

106 / Oh, This is Ladies Night

112 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

113 / Street Snacker Hanoi

114 / Mystery Diner HCMC

138 / Coffee Cup

140 / Recalling Hanoi

Showing their true colours

143 / Hanoi Promos

122 / The Fashion Designer

Bending light in the land of smiles

130 / Destination Zero

155 / HCMC City Guide

132 / Photography Tips

135 / Travel Promos

4 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

146 / Top Eats

164 / Coffee Cup

174 / Food Promos

150 / The Therapist

192 / The Last Call

CHUYN DU LCH & M THC

Chu trch nhim xut bn:

Thc hin lin kt xut bn:

In n 15.000 cun, kh 20.5 x 27cm

those who live here in

CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

THIS MONTH'S COVER

HAVE YOUR SAY

H2H Bike Ride

The Marguerite Garden Bay

8 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

the 2,100 kilometres got

The ride has also been

Photo by: Staffan Scherz

The Summer Break

chools out and summer is in full swing. In

10 | Word July 2014 | wordvietnam.com

And its not just restaurants that experience this

That the major cities in Vietnam seem to shut down for

the big five

KILL THE FLOOR

On Jul. 5 and Jul. 6, world-class

DJ Visa is fast becoming one of the