Professional Documents
Culture Documents
VIETNAM EDITION
OCTOBER 2014
NH XUT BN LAO NG
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contents
wordvietnam.com
OCTOBER 2014
062
100
056
058 / Co Loa
THE TALK
010 / Save our Cities
BRIEFINGS
012 / Saving the Rhino
INSIDER
054 / Many Faces
MUSIC
084 / Howling for Halloween
LEISURE
092 / The Secondhand Furniture
Shop
FASHION
106 / Hipsters.
102
contents
122
184
188
038 / Overscene
HCMC
TRAVEL
FINAL SAY
184 / The Inside Story of the
Guerrilla War
Get it?
CONTRIBUTORS
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EDITORIAL
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
editor@wordvietnam.com
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Deputy Editor
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Creative Director
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HOA LE
Staff Editor
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KYLE PHANROY
Photo Editor
kyle@wordvietnam.com
DAVID HARRIS
Staff Photographer
david@wordvietnam.com
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Staff Reporter
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Layout Designer
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Online Editor
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Marketing
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NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
Almost definitely somewhere remote
in Indonesia. Maybe Ambon in The
Maluku Islands. Maybe somewhere in
Sulawesi. Or possibly even somewhere
like Lombok.
Tt c hnh nh v ni dung
trong n phm ny thuc bn
quyn ca n phm Word ca
C.Ty CP TMDVQCTruyn Thng
Dng Hunh. Mi s sao chp
khng c php s b xem l
vi phm lut S Hu Tr Tu hin
hnh ca nh nc Cng Ha X
Hi Ch Ngha Vit Nam.
9 786045 919590
6 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com
Nh xut bn Lao ng
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T: + 84 4 3851 5380
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The prelude
got to have a certain
type of personality
to be able to cope
with it, and youve
got to be the type of
person who thrives on
achieving goals.
In our cover
story this month
almost everyone we
spoke to at least,
certainly those not
from Southeast Asia
found that in this
region they work
harder than they did
back home. Much
harder. The downside
of being a well-paid
VIETNAM EDITION
OCTOBER 2014
W
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hile we
were on
deadline
for this
issue, one of our
staff members ended
up in hospital, on
a drip. There are a
number of reasons
for what happened,
but one contributing
factor was stress. No
matter how much
you plan in advance,
the deadline stress
of putting together
a daily, weekly or
monthly publication
is immense. Youve
NH XUT BN LAO NG
inbox
DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US
AT EDITOR@WORDVIETNAM.COM WERE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.
Cover Story
No.2
No.3
Coconuts
Cafs
No.4
Flower
Markets
Long Bien
Bridge
No.5
the talk
14-18
OCT.
31
3 -25-26 OCT.
22
OCT.
Without Stars
15
OCT.
Apocalaughs Now!
After a two-month
hiatus, the international
comedy that we all love
to love is returning to Saigons
Cargo Bar on Wednesday Oct.
15.
Part of a Southeast Asian
comedy tour, this month the
headliners at Apocalaughs Now
are the irrepressible David
Smiedt (RSA) and the punchlineperfect Ro Campbell (UK).
As ever, Magners will be on
hand to give you a dose of Irish
cider on the door, and the laughs
will also be ready and waiting
with the most unpromisable of
promises a gag a minute. Oh,
and for all you partygoers out
there, this is Apocalaughs Nows
one-year anniversary show.
Definitely not one to be missed.
The entrance surcharge is
VND250,000 and includes a free
Magners. For table bookings please
email saigoncomedynights@gmail.
com. Cargo Bar is at 7 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Doors open
at 8pm
Acclaimed contemporary
dance troupe, The James
Cousins Dance Company,
will be electrifying the big stage on
Oct. 22 (Hanoi) and Oct. 25 and 26
(HCMC).
Performing two emotionally
charged pieces Without Stars
and There We Have Been both are
inspired by the Haruki Murakami
novel, Norwegian Wood. With a
recent work by the same dance
24-25
OCT.
Balade En France
The Halloween
Covers Show
Where do you go
when you want to see
your favourite bands play as
your other favourite bands? Well
theres only one place in the
world if some of your favourite
bands are Saigon indie groups
and others are legends like
Parliament-Funkadelic,
Florence and the Machine and
The Misfits and thats Cargo
Bar on Halloween night. Add
in Arctic Monkeys, Bob Dylan,
New Order and Joan Baez, and
youll get in enough musical
impersonations to never have
to go to Thi Caf again.
The Halloween Covers Show
starts around 9pm at Cargo Bar
7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
HCMC. Check out the feature on
page 84
briefings
BRIEFINGS
SOUTH AFRICA
Will it Work?
According to UK newspaper, The Independent,
two pieces of recent research suggest
that celebrities are generally ineffective
at encouraging people to care about
foreign causes. Instead, say sociologists,
by appearing to be altruistic the chief
beneficiaries of star-studded attempts to
raise the profile of a good cause are the
celebrities themselves.
Yet, says Jane Cooper, the UNICEF UK
director of communications, Celebrities
have a unique ability to reach millions of
people, many of whom may not normally be
engaged.
There is no doubt that Hong Nhungs
public profile will benefit by taking up this
cause. But hopefully the real beneficiary will
be the rhino. Nick Ross
For more information on the work of ENV,
please go to envietnam.org
briefings
BRIEFINGS
NATIONAL
Meanwhile in Saigon...
As the maybe-calculated VietJetAir scandal
unfolded on the pages of the internet, an
uncanny coincidence was brewing. And
on Sep. 24, Facebook was again atwitter
over photos of models in red-and-yellow
swimwear this time taken within the walls
of Saigon barbecue restaurant Quan Ut Ut.
Apparently leaked by Okinawan male
model Taint, the photos show his fellow
models in playful repose, looking sexy,
sassy and generally like guys youd want to
be sharing one of Quan Ut Uts communal
tables with.
Ut Ut owner Tim Scott said, These photos
were leaked from a test shooting under a
contract between Quan Ut Ut and Uranus
[Modeling Agency]. They are not official
promotional photos of Quan Ut Ut.
Tim was kind enough to answer a few
questions:
Who are the sexy dudes?
They are international men of the catwalk.
They were recruited from Uranus Talent
Agency. They are somewhat elusive in public
due to their fame, and live more or less in
disguise most of the time.
Not so Fast
A strange story gets stranger in the case
of the Quan Ut Ut photo leak, a number of
Facebook forums unleaked them, deleting the
images amid a flurry of gay-bashing and LOLs.
In point of fact, even the fine periodical you
hold in your hands couldnt run them. To get
a glimpse of the Uranus Modeling Agency
forbidden fruit, click on haivl.com/photo/4723142,
where youll see the cheeky mankini photos
contrasted with the totally-printable ladies of
VietJetAir.
briefings
ADLINE
E
D
oct
31
BRIEFINGS
NATIONAL
WWWHW
WHO: Pros and amateurs of all ages.
WHERE: Bedrooms, rooftops, cafs,
caves, grandparents houses, Crazy
Buffalo, Phuc Tan, etc.
to kyle@wordvietnam.com. Tell us
whether it was shot via SLR/DSLR or a
smartphone, and your name. For full
contest details, check wordvietnam.com/
features/the-culture/selfiefaceoff.
briefings
Photo by Mitsuyo Miyazaki
oct
29
BRIEFINGS
HCMC
MONO
In A Glance
WHERE: C ARGO B AR (7 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4, HCMC)
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HCMC
The
Scooter Man
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HANOI
In Transition The
Halico Factory
After a century-plus, the curtains have closed on
another of Hanois colonial landmarks. Katie Jacobs
surveys the remains
Ch-ch-changes
A friend took me to see the factory a few
weeks ago. An avid explorer of the city, she
had discovered the old factory by chance.
Parking the scooter in front of an expanse
of rubble she turned to me in shock. Its
gone, she said. I was just here a few weeks
ago and now its gone.
Thats Hanoi for you. Buildings are always
disappearing.
We poked our heads through the flimsy
corrugated iron gates, trying to picture what
was there before. Piles of crumbling red
bricks, cakes of cement, metal pipes, bamboo
poles and old trash stretched half a kilometre
before us. You can still see one of the
original chimneys, my friend said, pointing
to where a group of women in conical hats
were rummaging through the mess in search
of anything valuable or useful.
Although it seemed the factory had
disappeared overnight, in actuality, it wasnt
meant to have made it past the summer
of 2012. Originally slated for demolition
years ago, Word published an article about
the factory in April 2012 and reported
that Halico had built a new factory on the
outskirts of the city.
A quick Google search of the old address
at 94 Lo Duc reveals that the now rubblefilled lot is to be the site of two new
21-storey apartment complexes designed
by Australian-owned firm Brown and
AssociatesArchitects. But there is one
reminder of the historic factory. On the
corner stands a bright blue umbrella with
white Halico lettering stamped across it,
under which you can still buy plastic bottles
filled with the famous wine.
briefings
BRIEFINGS
NATIONAL
Vietnamese
Womens Day
oct
20
Hai Ba Trung
Leaders of an uprising in 40CE which would
establish the last Vietnamese-ruled kingdom
for 500 years, the Trung sisters are the heroic
archetype for women in Vietnam. In what is
today northern Vietnam, they led a rebellion
against the Chinese occupation after Chinese
governor To Dinh killed the elder Trungs
husband, according the Complete Annals of
Dai Viet. With a mostly-female army, the
widow Trung Trac and her sister subjugated
65 cities on the backs of war elephants in the
first year of their rule, establishing a capital
in Me Linh part of present-day Hanoi.
Trung Trac named herself queen.
It took the ruling Chinese Han dynasty
two years to amass an army of over 10,000
under the command of one of Chinas
greatest generals, Ma Yuan, Queller of the
Deep. In the Chinese account, Ma Yuan
killed both Trung Trac and her sister Trung
A Powerful Tradition
Dicey historical interpretations aside, the
Trung sisters have been powerful symbols of
Vietnamese independence for nearly 2,000
years. In these photos from Womens Day in
Saigon, 1960, ao dai-clad women of all ages
march down modern-day Le Loi, mindful of
the tradition they carry.
Vinh Tuong, herself a participant three
years later, says, The organiser borrowed
the two elephants from the zoo and 20
horses from Phu Tho a province in
northern Vietnam, the site of the Hung
Kings ancient kingdom. The two girl
students who acted as the two hero Trung
sisters were from Trung Vuong High School
on Nguyen Binh Khiem in Ho Chi Minh
City, which Tuong also attended.
20 younger girl students from the 8th
grade are the Trung sisters soldiers, she
continues. One of them was my sister.
briefings
IN BRIEF
BRIEFINGS
Sports Digest
From the sidelines, Harry Hodge sizes up
Vietnams month in sports
Octagenarian
Overachiever
The Asia Book of Records
recognised 83-year-old
Vietnamese citizen Huynh
Van Rang for climbing the
3,143-metre-high Mount
Fansipan four times in northern
Vietnam, according to Tuoi Tre.
The Vietnam Book of Records
and the Hoang Lien Ecological
Tourism and Environmental
Education Center also
recognised his exploit.
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NATIONAL
STADIUM ROCKED
DOMINANT IN
DANANG
Photos by Kyle Phanroy
SWANS IN MANILA
Vietnamese runners
dashed to eight medals
at the Danang International
Marathon during the Labour
Day long weekend.
The marathon attracted
more than 3,600 athletes
from over 25 countries and
territories to compete in
a full marathon, a halfmarathon and a 5km fun
run.
In the full marathon,
Vietnam swept the podium
on the mens side, with
Tran Van Loi on top, Hoang
Nguyen Thanh taking
silver and Nguyen Van
Long nabbing bronze. On
the womens side, Hoang
Thi Thanh took gold with
Denmarks Annete Haudrun
taking second.
In the half-marathon, Do
Quoc Luat, Le Tuan and
Bui The Anh finished 1-2-3
for the men, and Phung Thi
Hang took the womens
division.
All proceeds from the
event benefitted Danang
Cancer Hospital.
on the margins
Owner: Tuan
Location: Corner of De Tham and Co Bac
How long have you been open? More than
one year.
Why did you decide to serve kebabs? Its
a new cuisine to Vietnamese people and
Vietnamese people like to try out new foods.
Why kebabs instead of banh mi? The meat
is slow roasted so its always hot and fresh
unlike banh mi sandwiches that use mostly
processed meat. All my ingredients are
purchased daily from the local market. The
profits for kebabs and banh mi are the same,
but I provide a better product.
What did you do before you opened your
kebab stand? I worked for a petroleum
company for several years. But, with the
economic downturn, my company went
bankrupt and I lost my job.
How does running a food stand compare
with your previous position? Running a
food stand is much better. The hours are
longer, but the profits are much higher than
my previous salary. Also when I sell out I
can go home. I set my own hours.
Where did you get the idea for a kebab
stand? My cousin is a resident in Germany
and he told me about it. I was convinced this
would be a successful business and invested
in four carts. As soon as the economy
improves I will bring the other carts out of
storage.
Where did you get the equipment? The spit
is made in Vietnam, but the heating element
had to be imported from Turkey.
How many do you sell in a day? One
average about 100. But on busy days I can
sell up to 200.
What are your hours of operation? I start at
3pm and finish at 9pm, or when I run out of
product.
Do you sell on rainy days? Of course. Im
under a canopy. Rain is not an issue for me.
What changes have you noticed about
Vietnam in the last 10 years? You see a lot of
change on the surface. But the cost of living
is rising much faster than the average family
income. The buying power of the average
consumer has declined. Same as anywhere
else in the world.
What is your opinion on the current
economy? Compared with four years ago its
slow. But, its stable at the moment.
What are your hopes for the future? I hope
the overall global economy improves along
with Vietnam. If it does, my revenue will
increase and I can put my other carts on the
street.
BRIEFINGS
HCMC
A Duong
Kebab Stand
By Glen Riley.
Riley. Translated by Mi Nguyen
and Le Thi Quynh Ngan
BRIEFINGS
NATIONAL
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Cat of the
Month
Nike
to do list
10
OCT. FRIDAY
03
OCT. FRIDAY
08
18
OCT. SATURDAY
OCT. WEDNESDAY
21-24
OCT.
IPAD CREATIVE KIDS
WORKSHOP
Your kid is getting one of those
long weekends, and youre
worried theyll just waste the
whole thing on their iPad. Well,
under the guidance of iKnow
and Ta Lai Longhouse, thats
not a bad thing! From Oct. 21
to 24, the iPad Creative Workshop
is coming to Cat Tien National
Park, filled with fun activities
that straddle the line between
electronic addiction and natural
immersion. iPads in their hands,
kids will go scavenger hunting,
stargazing, bamboo raft
building and, erm, kayaking.
Get their heads out of the Cloud
and back in the clouds where
they belong!
Kids from nine to 14 years
are invited on the iPad Creative
Workshop at Cat Tien National
Park. The fee is VND6 million net
for the three-night, four-day camp.
For more info, email info@talaiadventure.vn, or just stop by iKnow
63 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC
25
OCT. SATURDAY
Halloween
24TH FRIDAY
The Halloween Classic
JoyRide
Halloween is coming up, and
theres no better time to flaunt
your new costume than the
weekend before. The Bike Shop
is inviting you to mount your
trusty steed even dress it
up in a critical mass of fun
proportions, with prizes for
the best costumes! Make sure
you bring a good attitude, your
helmet and a bicycle with lights
to The Bike Shop at 7pm, and
get ready to celebrate the joy
of cycling with a horde of likeminded road racers!
The ride starts at 7pm at The Bike
Shop, 250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
HCMC. Contact thebikeshopvn@
gmail.com for info on bike rentals
to do list
Dance Parties
Photo by Dave Lemke
FRIDAY OCT. 3
Alex From Tokyo
Expertly eclectic and globally
recognized, Alex From Tokyo
has played in some of the most
well-respected underground
clubs on the planet. His sets go
from ethereal sounds to stringlicked instrumental syncopation,
stepping into the worlds of
both old school and advanced
house and techno. A veteran of
residencies in both Tokyo and New
York, this is his first Saigon show.
Alex From Tokyo will be excavating
Saigons chakras at The Observatory
(cnr. of Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1,
HCMC) with support from Hibiya Line.
Doors at 10pm, entry VND100,000
Lip Service
Resident sexologists Joey-T and
Starchild bring you a night of
smooth slow jams, R&B, hip-hop,
soul, boogie and music to groove
with your boo to. Get ready to
make sweet, sweet love on the
dancefloor all... night... long.
Lip Service will seduce you
at Broma (41 Nguyen Hue, Q1,
HCMC), VND50,000 entry
SATURDAY OCT. 4
Battle of the Month
Ok, so maybe its not the kind of
throwdown we hosted in August,
but Songs urban style dance show
has everything else urban, featuring
the dynamic styles of John Huy
Tran and Urban Dance Group, and
hip-hop dancers, circus performers,
beat-boxers, graffiti artists, My Tam,
Phuong Vy and others. At Hoa Binh
Theater Oct. 4, it will be the latest
attempt to catch dance lightning in a
bottle, or at least in a stage routine.
To get the full rundown on Songs
showcase at Hoa Binh Theater 3
SATURDAY OCT. 11
Outcast Live Music
Saturdays
Dat Phonk is one of Saigons
supafunkiest bands. And, at
Saigon Outcasts Live Music
Saturdays, theyll inundate you
with disco boogie jams.
Dat Phonk will devastate your
funk receptors at Saigon Outcast
(188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
HCMC), VND50,000 entry
THURSDAY OCT. 16
Last Calls Second
Anniversary
As a chillax hub, an after party
location and the place with the
best classy happy hour in town,
Last Calls become part of our
lives. And its hard to believe its
been only two years. The bar will
remind you of that fact on the 16th
with DJs, drinks, food and fun, the
usual mix of stuff weve gone to
them for from the start.
Last Calls second anniversary
party is 9pm till late at Last Call, 59
Dong Du, Q1, HCMC, freeee
FRIDAY OCT. 17
Gangster Cat Haus
CIS and Starchild deliver the deep
and dirty underground electric
jams that are needed to keep
your body moving all night. In
Starchilds words: Let's get weird!
Gangster Cat Haus will claw all of
your cortexes at Broma (41 Nguyen
Hue, Q1, HCMC), VND50,000 entry
FRIDAY OCT. 24
Anchorsong + Kay Suzuki
Anchorsong aka Masaaki
SATURDAY OCT. 25
Live Funk
Dat Phonk will be turning up
the funk meter to 11, while DJs
Starchild and Datodeo stir the
funk soup and play only the
dopest, dappest soul, funk, disco
and boogie vinyls!
Dat Phonk and DJs Starchild and
Datodeo are serving the funk soup at
La Fenetre Soleil (44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
HCMC), VND50,000 entry
SAVE
The
Date
01
NOV.
THE SAIGON
MELBOURNE CUP
For Australians, Nov. 1 is a
day to recall all the triumphs
of the past specifically
the past 153 years, each
of which has hosted the
Melbourne Cup, Australias
premiere horse racing derby.
AusCham hasnt forgotten
either, and theyre holding
the first Saigon Melbourne
Cup celebration at the aptlynamed Reverie Hotel.
The Saigon Melbourne Cup
will have special horse races
where people can purchase
horses with cash to win
prizes from sponsors. The
cash will be donated directly
to charity. In addition,
modelled off the Melbourne
Cups Fashions on the Field,
they will have Fashions on
the Gon, with 10 Vietnamese
models dressed in ao dais,
wearing striking hats that
have been designed by Kan
Kanemura exclusively for the
Saigon Melbourne Cup, and
an amateur catwalk category.
The Saigon Melbourne Cup
will be at the new Reverie Hotel
on Nov. 1, 11am to 4pm. For
more information or to reserve a
ticket for VND3 million, contact
events@auschamvn.org or (08)
3832 9912
7th TO 9th
NOV.
nov
07-. 09
12
22
NOV.
NOV.
to do list
22
NOV.
NIGHT MOVES
The Color Me Run guys are
back with another fun concept,
and a stupid cool international
megastar lined up for the afterconcert: DJ Lil Jon. The concept is
22
PRIME MOVER
DEC.
Dan Bi Mong
DJ Hibiya Line,
Founder/Art Director at
The Observatory
facebook.com/
theobservatoryhcmc
If my older-yet-still-cool
Mom came to town, I
would take her to
Shes already come two times!
And we did the grand slam!
She is now 70 and we did
crazy motorbike trips in the
mountains, partied together at
The Observatory and went to
have a street rum session her
endurance almost killed me!
just in
MAGONNS NEW
FLAGSHIP STORE
ITS FALL/WINTER IN
RB&K STYLE
LIMOCELLO IN DANANG
STEP AWAY FROM THE BAY
Mango Bay Phu Quoc is known
for its simple, eco-friendly
elegance. But not everyone
wants simplicity, so Mango
Bay is taking rustic luxury
to another level with five
elegant traditional bayview
villas on a hilltop eight metres
above the beach. Combining
BLACKOUT
New restaurants in Ho Chi
Minh City are a dime a veritable
dozen. But few can claim to be
as truly unique as Blackout.
Located upstairs in the
lounge space that was once
occupied by Vascos, opened
in early September this new
eatery is the only restaurant in
Vietnam where diners eat in
complete darkness.
Using a menu similar to
that of modern French and
Mediterranean restaurant
just in
The Art Wall
FRIDAY 3RD
Rapture in Lacquer
Hailing from the lacquer
village in Binh Duong, Nguyen
Quang Son was fated to pursue
the medium. But, with his
Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts
University background, he saw
uncommon possibilities for
lacquer, and has pursued them
in his Black and White exhibition
at Craig Thomas Gallery.
Eschewing the traditional
themes of temples and rural life
common to most Vietnamese
lacquer painting, Son has
chosen a more abstract route
for his latest collection.
Nguyen Quang Sons Black
and White opening reception goes
from 6pm to 9pm at Craig Thomas
Gallery, 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1,
HCMC. The exhibition runs until
Nov. 3
SATURDAY 11TH
Art Market, Cubed
WEDNESDAY 15TH
Craig Thomas Gallery at
the Sofitel
Craig Thomas Gallery will
follow up its successful Bui
Tien Tuan exhibition with
another hotel wall hanging
of one of Vietnams brightest
stars, Hanoi-based Nguyen
The Hung. The retrospective
will focus on his Little Flowers
ALL MONTH
Breaking the Fifth Wall
Hanoi-based photographer
Jamie Maxtone-Graham is
taking his practice into a new
arena with his first Galerie
Quynh exhibition within the
frame of his photographs. In
That Little Distance, the artist
combines the roles of subject
and photographer, appearing in
every image and playing with
the symbolism of light and
location.
Shot in a former State-owned
and now vacant pharmaceutical
factory in Hanoi, the only light
in these pictures comes from
a large, north-facing window,
which permits only a soft,
indirect light throughout the
course of the day. The subjects
Maxtone-Graham poses with
are unidentified they exist
equally in relation to one
another.
That Little Distance is on view
at Galerie Quynhs downtown
location Level 2, 151/3 Dong
Khoi, Q1, HCMC until Oct. 31
Independence Day
Brooks Brothers
disney at ais
to do list
03-04
hanoi
OCT.
04
OCT. SATURDAY
DJ CHAMBER AT EDEN
04-10
OCT.
05
OCT. SUNDAY
09
10
OCT. THURSDAY
OCT. FRIDAY
EDM AT EDEN
Hanois number one EDM party
electronic dance music to me
and you is returning to Eden
Hanoi on Friday Oct. 10.
Expect fire shows, magic and
dancers going wild to Vietnams
best EDM gurus who will be
spinning on the decks late into
the night.
Entrance is VND100,000 and the
event goes on until late. Eden Hanoi
is at 264 Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi
STITCH N BITCH
Knitters unite Stitch n Bitch,
a pastime dating back to World
War II, is coming to Time Club
in Hanoi for the first time ever
on Oct. 9.
Socially-minded aficionados
of the yarn-based arts are invited
for an evening of witty banter,
insightful cultural commentary,
and adorable cat sweaters. While
traditionally used as a forum
for politically active women to
challenge societal norms, Stitch
n Bitch is open to needlewielders of all genders, abilities
and conversational interests.
The bitch begins at 7pm at Time
Club (6, 1/62 Au Co, Tay Ho,
Hanoi). Tickets are VND100,000
includes free drink and a
free knitting lesson. For more
information, check out facebook.com/
timeclubhanoi
11
OCT. SATURDAY
SOPHIE MAURIN
Performing in Hanoi on Oct.
11, French singer-songwriter
Sophie Maurin burst onto the
international music scene with
her 2013 album Far Away.
While often praised for her
silky, feminine voice, Maurin
is also an accomplished pianist
and budding architect. She has
to do list
hanoi
23-24
OCT.
OKTOBERFEST AT THE JW
MARRIOTT
18
12 OCT. SUNDAY
LA TRAVIATA
Cinematheque will screen a
classic version of Verdis La
Traviata on Sunday Oct. 12.
A story of unrequited love,
death, duels, masked balls and
revenge, the opera is based
on the novel, The Lady of the
Camellias, first published in 1848
by Alexandre Dumas, fils. La
Traviata is arguably the worlds
most popular opera.
The screening will take place at
7pm and Cinematheque is at 22A
Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi.
For more information email info@
hanoioperaguild.com
17
OCT. SATURDAY
OCT. FRIDAY
Symphony Orchestra.
Their diverse talents and
influences have delighted
audiences at home and
abroad and due to the groups
popularity and the intimate
seating arrangement, it is
recommended to reserve
tickets in advance by emailing
manzihanoi@gmail.com.
The performance is hosted by
Manzi Art Space (14 Phan Huy Ich,
Ba Dinh, Hanoi) and begins at 8pm.
Surcharge at door: VND200,000
23
ANCHORSONG
Hosted by CAMA ATK,
Anchorsong aka Masaaki Yoshida
will be performing for the first
time in Hanoi on Oct. 25 as part of
his Autumn Asia tour.
A product of the Londonbased Tru Thoughts label (which
counts Quantic, Mr. Scruff, and
Zed Bias amongst its artists),
Yoshida blends layers of blissful
electronica into an atmospheric
experience that has been likened
to watching a painter drawing
on a white canvas. His live
performances have mesmerised
audiences from England to Japan.
Avid members of the local music
scene will be pleased to know
that Yoshida will be accompanied
by ATK resident and DomDom
wonder-experimentalist, Nguyen
Do Minh Quan.
CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac
De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. The
concert begins at 8pm. Tickets are
VND80,000
OCT. THURSDAY
28
25
OCT. THURSDAY
laid-back atmosphere.
Entrance is VND100,000 and
includes a free beer or soft drink,
plus all the delicious herbal
tea you care to drink. Because
nothing says reggae party like
herbs and tea.
The party starts at 7pm. Find
Time Club at 6, 1/62 Au Co, Tay
Ho, Hanoi or online at facebook.
com/timeclubhanoi
OCT. TUESDAY
A DAY OF NOURISHMENT
On Tuesday Oct. 28, TET
Lifestyle Collection is holding
a Day of Nourishment at
their private organic farm,
Fragrant Path Green Tea Nature
Gardens, located only 45
minutes from Hanoi.
Leaving TET Dcor Caf
at 9am and followed by a
45-minute drive into the nature
of Dai Lai Lake, the programme
consists of a 1.5 hour organic
Vietnamese cooking class, and
an organic feast for lunch set
29
OCT. WEDNESDAY
to do list
30
hanoi
OCT. THURSDAY
ALL MONTH
LAFIDKI
CAMA ATK are continuing their
Thursday night electronica with
French / Cambodian musician
Lafidki on Thursday Oct. 30.
With his live sets evolving
around abstract electronics, noise
and sequenced multi-layered
rhythms, playing live is always
an experiment for Lafidki. His
music choices are spontaneous,
his decisions made through
the energy of people and space
around him.
Having performed around the
world in cities as diverse as St
Petersburg, Seoul and Bangkok,
this is a rare chance to catch a
unique musician at what he does
best.
Entrance to the event is
VND50,000 and doors are at 8pm.
CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De,
Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
PIKNIC ELECTRONIK
31
HANOI COMRADES
HALLOWEEN PARTY AT
TIME CLUB
OCT. FRIDAY
A HAUNTED (BUT
POSITIVE) MASS
The monthly bike ride inspired by
Critical Mass that has reached 300
cities worldwide continues this
month on Friday Oct. 31 at 8pm.
Titled Positive Mass or Dap
Cho Suong, the ride will pedal
off in Hanoi at St. Josephs
Cathedral on Nha Tho / Nha
Chung. From there the cyclists
will traverse the streets of the
capital en masse. With the ride
taking place on Halloween, this
month is the opportunity to
dress scary and deathly sharp,
all in aid of frightening off those
motorbikes, cars and trucks out
there. Now wouldnt that be
something!
Everyone is welcome to join free
of charge. Simply turn up at the
allotted time and date. For further
information go to thbc.vn
OCTOBER MOVIES
THBC Spanish Tapas Bar (44
Lane 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho) is
continuing their season of movies
celebrating Spanish culture every
Sunday throughout October.
With all films shown in
Spanish and accompanied by
English subtitles, entrance is
free and even if you are not
sure about the films you can
still indulge in the finer arts of
Spanish food and drink.
The month kicks off on Sunday
Oct. 5 with Eva. On Sunday
Oct. 12 the movie Fados will be
screened followed by Todas las
Canciones Hablan de mi on Oct.
19. The month climaxes with Los
Lunes al Sol on Sunday Oct. 26.
All movies start at 7.30pm so
just in
hanoi
THE REPUBLIC
terraces, the second-floor area
with views over the lake.
Themed as an upmarket
gastropub with a menu
focused on upscale comfort
food, The Republic has five TV
screens inside and one outside
for watching the live sports.
They also serve up daily
promotions that
mix in drink
and food.
The Republic
is at 7A Quang
An, Tay Ho,
Hanoi or online
at republic.vn
MEDITATION IN TAY HO
For anyone interested in using
mind over chaotic Hanoi
matter, then the recently
establish Oneness Meditation
Group at KI Studio (112 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho) may just be the
answer.
Meeting every Thursday
from 10.30am to 12pm, the
group practices relaxation
meditation, ancient chakra
meditation, a forgiveness
process, setting intentions and
the receiving of the Oneness
Blessing. Intended to help
overscene hanoi
Wedding Fair at JW
Marriott
queer forever
Not So Ordinary
briefings
BRIEFINGS
NATIONAL
This is
the Month that Was
From Bendgate to VietJetAir marketing photos all the way through to
Hanois Old Quarter, September was a month to remember
Bagged!
Equally viral, especially in Ho Chi Minh
City, is a growing plague called plastic bag
syndrome. An epidemic common to the
whole of Vietnam but particularly resistant
to treatment in the countrys (second) largest
city, the metropoliss Environment Protection
Fund have discovered that Saigon consumes
around 9 million plastic bags a day
equivalent to 50 to 70 tonnes.
These shocking figures are pushing
plastic bag producers into urgent action.
Encouraged by their friends in The Ministry
of Natural Resources and Environment,
there are now an astonishing 17 companies
in Vietnam producing environmentallyfriendly, biodegradable bags. Now all they
need is a market. A tough one, that one.
The first problem is price biodegradable
Insider
MANY FACES // DONT GO CHASING CORACLES // CO LOA // THE CITIES // HOWLING FOR
HALLOWEEN // SAIGON VINYL QUEST // THE SECONDHAND FURNITURE SHOP //
THE STRIP // THE GREAT HANOI STARBUCKS EXPERIMENT // MYSTERY DINER HANOI //
STREET SNACKER HANOI // MYSTERY DINER HCMC // FASHION // THE PEOPLE OF MYANMAR //
FORMULA ONE // CU CHI THE HARD WAY
PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY
????????????????????????????????????????
insider
The woman behind Saigon Chamber Music, Tran Nguyet
Sa is trying to create an environment that allows young
Vietnamese classical musicians the opportunity to thrive.
Photo by Kyle Phanroy
Building a Dream
Having both worked and studied extensively
overseas at one point she was a journalist for
the BBC World Service in London Sa first got
her idea for starting Saigon Chamber Music in
2008 after finishing a course in arts management
at the Kennedy Center for Performing Arts in
the US. Feeling renergised and inspired to
do things differently she visited Yellow Barn
Music Festival in Vermont and Kneisel Hall
Music Festival in Maine.
MANY FACES
HCMC
Tran
Nguyet Sa
insider
INSIDER
DANANG
Dont Go
Chasing Coracles
In Danang, Phong Lan meets one elderly fisherman still
making coracles the traditional way with bamboo and
an old technique. Photos by Khanh Hong
For many years, coracles floating near My Khe Beach have been
a graceful sight. They are seen as good symbols of the mountain
and the sea, the bamboo prevailing over the strong waves
wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 57
insider
HISTORY
HANOI
Co Loa
Just 15km from Central Hanoi, a trip to the citadel of Co Loa reveals a forgotten
story about Vietnams film industry. Words and photos by Nick Ross
A Surprising Find
As I made to leave, the area took on a new
dimension. Interested to see if there was any
more to Co Loa than meets the eye, I twisted
and turned down some back streets and then
a red-earthed path before ending up round
the back of a deserted building. Although Id
noticed it before it stands opposite the main
entrance to the citadel Id identified it as
one of those ugly, municipally-built buildings
Getting There
Take either Chuong Duong or Long Bien
Bridges over the Red River and follow the
road until you go over Cau Duong Bridge.
Turn left onto Highway 3 and follow the
road 7km until you see signs for Co Loa.
Cover Story
The Cities
Bangkok
Phnom Penh
Hong Kong
Singapore
Jakarta
Manila
Yangon
Kuala Lumpur
Hanoi
Bangkok
Le Nguyen
30s / Vietnamese / Reporter at the BBC
VND100.000
STATS
Despite having a fairly high GDP per
capita VND121.4 million* prices
in both Thailand and Bangkok remain
relatively on the low side. In Bangkok a
Big Mac Meal costs a mere VND100,000
and the hourly rate for hiring a cleaner
is also cheap at VND48,000. However,
accommodation is more costly than in
Vietnam VND25.7 million a month or
an 85sqm apartment in an
expensive area.**
*Provided by The World Bank
**Provided by expatistan.com
Tim Russell
Mentally in his 20s, physically in his 40s / British /
Married / Managing director for Remote Lands
Time in Saigon: 10 years
Time in Bangkok: 2 years
Life
Work
STATS
The general mood about the economy
is not so great, though. 93 percent of
Thais think their country is in a recession
although roughly 1 in 2 Thais think
the recession will end in the next 12
months.***
***Provided by Nielson
Ho Chi Minh
Nguyen Thuy Linh
32 / Vietnamese / Married /
Managing directors assistant at Asia Golf Club
212
STATS
VND2,136,000
Connla Stokes
VND1,047,000
City
HCMC
Hanoi
STATS
That Ho Chi Minh City is cheaper than
Hanoi is due to the sophisticated end of
life rather than the basic necessities like
food, accommodation and transport. Take
a pair of Levis 501s or their equivalent.
In Hanoi they weigh in at VND2,136,000
a pair whereas in Ho Chi Minh City,
theyre a pinch at just VND1,047,000.
Leather shoes are also more expensive
up north 62 percent more expensive.
As is gym membership and wine. In fact,
anything deemed to be luxury is
just that little bit more costly
in Vietnams capital.**
**Provided by expatistan.com
Phnom Penh
Niamh McLoughlin
VND
21.3
million
STATS
National GDP per capita (2013):
VND21.3 million
Change in GDP per capita between
2010 and 2013: +28.74%*
*Provided by The World Bank
Circumstances
Pros
Problems
Etc.
Darren Gall
50s / Australian / Single /
Wine specialist for The Warehouse
Time in Hanoi: 6 months
Time in Phnom Penh: 5 years
Circumstances
Pros
Cons
Moving On
STATS
Expensive City Ranking (out of 230 cities):
Not ranked
Which means: Based on the answers of
142 respondents, Phnom Penh is slightly
more expensive than Hanoi. Clothes are
double the price of Ho Chi Minh City,
while both food and transportation are
19% and 29% cheaper respectively.**
**Provided by expatistan.com
Hong Kong
TH
STATS
David Stout
Late 20s / American / Single / Journalist
Time in Hong Kong: 1 year
Time in Hanoi: 2.5 years
Formerly a resident of Hanoi, US-born
David Stout left an editorial position at
Word Vietnam to work for a publication
in Myanmar. It was around the time the
country started opening up and was a step
towards forwarding his career in the media.
Now a breaking news reporter for TIME in
Hong Kong, this late 20-something journalist
has made the city his home. Its tough, but
the rewards, it seems, are proving fruitful.
The Pros
The Cons
I Miss
STATS
Says market research giant Nielsen***,
despite the ongoing recession, job
prospects in this dynamic powerhouse
are good to excellent so say 54% of
respondents. However, the economic
outlook over the next year is not so
good, with only 23% of those surveyed
expecting things to improve.
***Provided by Nielson
Singapore
RD
STATS
Chu Nga
28 / Vietnamese / Single /
Working in commodity trading
Time in Hanoi: 20 years
Time in Singapore: 8 years
Why did you move to Singapore?
I was offered a full scholarship through
the Singapore Ministry of Foreign Affairs
to study business administration at the
National University of Singapore.
Was it difficult to adapt to life here at the
beginning?
I found it not too difficult, although there
were a lot of overwhelmingly new things for
me. Online forums such as the Vietnamese
student community were very helpful to
help me get settled down.
What do you like about working in
Singapore?
Singapore has been a global financial hub
and is becoming even more of one. Having
the opportunity to work in Singapore for me
is beneficial, worthwhile and interesting. It
is a very international working environment:
in a team you can expect to have people
from all over the world.
Whats the balance like between work and
play?
Generally Singapore is considered a high
Ian Paynton
Late 20s / British / Super single /
Publisher of regional magazines for
Haymarket Media Group /
Co-wner of creative agency We Create
Time in Hanoi: 2.5 years
VND
200
000
Circumstances
Pros
Cons
Compare/Contrast
STATS
Singapore's wealth and extravagance
have a downfall the cost of living,
especially if youre an expat. The average
cost to rent an 85sqm apartment in an
expensive area is VND84.7 million per
month. Fortunately food remains cheap.
Hawker courts still routinely serve up
dishes for VND68,000 to VND85,000 a go.
And even the more pricey restaurants are
relatively inexpensive. Just dont go for
the beer here youre routinely paying
over VND200,000 for a half pint.
Jakarta
Eammon Sadler
50s / British / Divorced / Entrepreneur
Time in Jakarta: 23 years
Melbourne
Jakarta
STATS
The largest city in Southeast Asia, despite
its regional importance Jakarta remains
relatively cheap for expats. 182nd on the
Expat Cost of Living Index*, life here is
marginally cheaper than Bangkok and
21% more costly than in Hanoi.
To put this in a wider perspective,
living in Jakarta is exactly half the cost
of living in Melbourne.
*Provided by expatistan.com
As an entrepreneur I am always
working, but I enjoy what I do so I dont
really view it as work. Some people climb
mountains as an enjoyable challenge. Some
play team sports. I create businesses.
The expats I know here are a close
group of friends of all nationalities. Even
after 23 years I have no close Indonesian
friends. I speak the language but the
culture is more of a challenge.
Its easy to get your house cleaned or
your car serviced, but if its something
important better to do it yourself. But
thats true everywhere in my experience.
Paul Kanwar
Mid-40s / British / Married / Sales and marketing
director for a healthcare company
Time in Jakarta: 10 years
How long have you lived overseas?
Been overseas since just after birth in Kent,
until 16. Left again in 1997. Im a thirdculture kid.
Why did you move to Jakarta?
I was transferred here from a previous
posting in Saigon. It was an easy decision to
move here as I used to live here in 1997/1998
when the city was in flames and people
were getting shot. Then I came out as an
expat from London, sight unseen. Anything
was better than that dangerous era.
What are the drawbacks about life there?
The quick journey times make Saigon feel
like a provincial town compared to the daily
traffic nightmare that everyone experiences
in Jakarta. Traffic jams and the lack of
modern public transport are the biggest
downside of living in this city. Now that
more cars are being sold in Indonesia, you
only have to imagine what Bangkok would
be like without the Skytrain or underground.
The city of Jakarta has a population of
around 10 or 11 million. This rises to 13
million on a workday. Greater Jakarta has a
population of over 30 million, making it the
second largest conurbation in the world after
Greater Tokyo.
VND
630
000
STATS
When it comes to the not-so-fine things
of life, Jakarta has its downfalls. A
bottle of good table wine averages out
VND630,000 a go, while supermarketpurchased beer costs VND44,000 per
half litre bottle. Fortunately, clothing is
cheap about the half the price of Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City as is gym
membership. To keep yourself in trim,
expect to pay an average monthly fee of
VND924,000.
Manila
VND
30
Nguyen Ba Hung
million
STATS
Manila is 2.7% more expensive than
Bangkok and roughly half as expensive
as Shanghai. The cost of living in Ho
Chi Minh City is a third cheaper than it
is in Manila. The big difference between
Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Manila
is housing an average 85sqm
apartment in an expensive area
costs VND30 million.*
*The Cost of Living Index, Expatistan.com
Working in Manila
Pros
Cons
Robert Wyld
Mid-50s / British / In a Relationship / President & CEO
of Manulife Chinabank Life Assurance Corporation
Time in Manila: 2.5 years
5
STATS
Yangon
Jim Abril
Late 20s / Filipino / Single / Creative Director
for Mango Marketing (affilitated with JWT)
Time Overseas (including Saigon): 14 years
Time in Yangon: 4 years
Moving to Ho Chi Minh City in his teens,
after completing his degree in Manila, Jim
returned to Vietnam to start off his career
in graphic design. Working for Word as art
director, he followed his parents to Yangon
when they moved there in 2010. He was
supposed to stay for 12 months. Four years
later is he is still living in Myanmars largest
city and is working with clients such as
Unilever, Carlsberg and Telenor.
Alex Falter
30s / British / Setting up a textiles factory in Yangon
Time in Hanoi: 5 years
Time travelling to Yangon: 18 months
Based out of Hanoi and with a textiles
factory in Bac Giang, Alex works for Vert,
an arm of a Dutch fashion group. He is
presently setting up a manufacturing
entity along with a garment trade school in
Yangon.
Why are you setting up another arm of your
business in Yangon?
We feel that Myanmar, with a 55 million
population, will be one of the last bastions
of manufacturing in Asia. Elsewhere
in Asia, wages are rising higher than
productivity. We are working with the
local garments associations and NGOs
to ensure we can set a strong standard of
Corporate Social Responsibiliy (CSR) from
the outset.
What are transportation and commute
times like to get to and from work and to
get around the city?
Terrible! I stay near Inya Lake and during
peak rush hour it will take me over an hour
to reach The Strand. Thats just 12km. There
are no motorbikes to jump on they are
illegal in central Yangon. There is little public
transport either, just cheap, clapped out
Toyota taxis.
What are the salary levels like in Yangon
for locals and expats?
Myanmar salaries are very low for the
mass populace around VND2.6 million
per month on the outskirts of Yangon. If
you speak English and are Universityeducated, salaries can be anywhere from
VND10.5 million to VND21 million a
month for talented locals. But they are in
high demand and usually have their own
companies as their families had money to
educate them. There are some extremely
wealthy individuals in Yangon. Expats are
generally better paid than in Hanoi.
238
STATS
Kuala Lumpur
VND
221
million
STATS
Malaysia, and by default Kuala Lumpur,
has a GDP per capita of VND221 million*.
Amazingly this isnt reflected in the cost
of living. An average 85sqm apartment in
an expensive area is only 24% more costly
than the equivalent accommodation in
Ho Chi Minh City. Yet GDP per capita is
over five times higher in Malaysia than
it is in Vietnam. Food is also in a similar
price range to Vietnam, while clothing
and petrol are far cheaper.**
The killer, however, is going out.
With the taxes applied to alcohol, it can
be a very costly affair expect to pay
upwards of VND100,000 a beer. As for
spirits, lets not go there
*Provided by The World Bank
**These stats are found on expatistan.com
Dung Le
30s / Vietnamese / single / travel agent
Time in Kuala Lumpur: 1.5 years
The woman and face behind the Hanoi-based
travel agency, Zoom Zoom Lets Go to the
Countryside, Dung Le has spent time overseas
in both the US (Alaska) and more recently,
Kuala Lumpur.
I moved to Kuala Lumpur because I had
a job offer working as a travel agent in KL. It
was a very easy decision since I love travelling
places, meeting people, experiencing other
cultures and living in other countries.
The salary levels are based on job title,
skills, experience and education. Since I have
a degree and I am a foreigner, when my
company offered me a job, they had to make
sure they were paying the salary that could
cover my living expenses, housing and some
savings. It was higher than that back home in
Vietnam.
My salary could cover everything. I had
a comfortable life. I rented a nice apartment
with a swimming pool and a nice gym. I could
afford to go out, go shopping or dine out. I
could travel to other cities, islands around
Malaysia over the weekends or even travel
to other countries like Singapore, Thailand,
Indonesia and The Philippines.
I shared an apartment with two other
expats. Our apartment building had
everything we could wish for and I had my
own en-suite bedroom. It cost me about
VND7.5 million a month.
Jonathan Atherton
50s / Australian / married / stand-up comedian
Time in Kuala Lumpur: 1.5 years
Time living overseas: More than 25 years
What do you do?
I am a stand-up comic and, such whores that
we comics are, I will work for anyone who
has the cash.
Hanoi
Nick Ross
Just turned 40 / British / Married /
Chief editor of Word Vietnam
Time in Hanoi: 1.5 years and subsequently,
once a month
Time in Vietnam: 14 years
Moving up to Hanoi
STATS
Hanoi is ranked 207 out of 230 cities in
the Cost of Living Index*. This makes
it 3.4% cheaper than Phnom Penh
(Cambodia) and 4.7% more expensive
than Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnam). The
cost of living in Singapore is 2.94 times
as expensive as it is in Hanoi.
When it comes to differences between
its nemesis, Ho Chi Minh City, two areas
can be pulled out. First is food in
Hanoi its just a touch cheaper. The real
downer, however, is luxury goods. If you
want your bargains and to buy all those
brands on the fly, head down south.
Even better, go overseas.
*expatistan.com
Recent times
Pros
Cons
Brendan Aupy
31 / Irish / Single / English teacher
Time in Saigon: 1 year
Time in Hanoi: 1.5 years
I moved to Hanoi because... I was attracted to
living in a different part of Vietnam. I lasted
three weeks in the small northern town [I left
Saigon to work in]. It was not as advertised,
for example no accommodation, just a shtty
cheap hotel with pink lights everywhere if
you know what I mean... I ended up getting a
job in the city centre of Hanoi.
I miss Saigon for... the food. In particular
Vietnamese BBQ restaurants, they dont seem
to be as popular in Hanoi. Also the western
restaurants here are not great and expensive,
whereas in Saigon you are spoilt for choice.
The locals are also a bit rude in some places
around Hanoi. I think in Saigon they are a bit
more tolerable towards western people, and
more forgiving for not speaking the language.
I find getting around the city... to be slightly
easier in Hanoi, the flow of traffic is not as
bad.
The nightlife is better in... Saigon its a
lot better for people that like to have more
options. Given that there is a curfew here, you
74%
STATS
music
At A Glance
WHERE: C ARGO B AR (7 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4, HCMC)
WHEN: Oct. 31
TBD STUFF: Check facebook.com/
cargosaigon
INSIDER
HCMC
Howling for
Halloween
Courtesy of Saigons best, live, original music-writing
bands, a night of cover music mayhem is making its way
to Cargo just in time for Halloween. Heres whats in
store. Words by Ed Weinberg. Photos by Francis Xavier
The Misfits
American, 1977-1983, Horror Punk
the reins.
The Halloween show has gotten bigger
this year, with acts that run across eras and
genres. And that can only be a good thing for
Saigons burgeoning indie scene.
Matt says, The Halloween cover show
is a big deal in Athens, Georgia, where the
whole city is walking around in costume,
bar-hopping from the Beatles to the Dead
Milkmen to Throbbing Gristle, depending
on what youre in the mood for. And playing
a good cover show on Halloween has a
noticeably positive effect on the amount of
fans you'll get out to see your actual band
play in the year to follow.
This year, we'll have more bands,
Gareth says, and I'm fing pumped.
Arctic Monkeys
Joan Baez
Bob Dylan
Parliament-Funkadelic
New Order
British, 2007-Present,
Art Rock/Baroque Pop
British,
1980-1993/1998-2007/2011-Present,
New Wave/Post-Punk
Why Florence?
Music
When we Vietnamese
talk vinyl, we think of
giant hi-fi systems, fancy
glossy turntables, rare
records of middleaged Vietnamese dudes
dressed to the nines,
smoking cigarettes with a
cup of coffee on the side
looking oh-so-bourgeois
and sophisticated,
listening to classical or
jazz records of artists
they probably know
nothing about
INSIDER
HCMC
Saigon
Vinyl Quest
The owner of a new, secondhand turntable,
Francis Xavier goes on a turbulent quest through
the dustbins of history to find out where can you
buy secondhand records in Saigon?
Desperation Diggings
When digging through old vinyl in Saigon,
be prepared for some sneezing from the
musty smell of old records. Youll find
strange Japanese bands youve never heard
of, whose names you cant pronounce.
Theres also a decent amount of popular
1980s music, but somehow no sign of new
wave groups like New Order or Depeche
Mode.
When looking through the Jazz-Country
section, youll discover all kinds of Sinatra
and Connie Francis hits, but not a single
Miles Davis or Cal Tjader record. But youre
in luck if youre into Easy Listening
thats the biggest section in every store
Ive been to. And dont forget Richard
Clayderman and Celine Dion.
Prices, however, are good. You can get
unknown Japanese records from VND20,000
to VND80,000. They are in good shape and
play even better, louder than other records
youll get. Others are usually somewhere
between VND100,000 to VND250,000
towards the more expensive end for easy
listening stuff. New records are always
VND500,000 and up.
The Source
V IETNAM A UDIO V ISUALS F ORUM
vnav.vn
You can find big or small record stores
here, as well as those mentioned
G IA D INH A UDIO
T HE T EA T IME LP
D J V U LP S HOP
D UNG A UDIO
D AN S INH M ARKET
leisure
LEISURE
HANOI
The Secondhand
Furniture Shop
In search of an authentic aura, Julie Vola searched high and low for Hanois
fabled secondhand furniture sellers, and soon found a whole stockpile of it
92 | Word October 2014 | wordvietnam.com
Second Chances
My new housemate is just like me except
with a fixation on finding the perfect old
desk to repair. So we asked around. Like an
urban legend, many people had heard of
a place where it was probably possible to
find secondhand furniture, but the location
was always elusively somewhere on the
HANOI
The Strip
Peering past new coats of paint, Maureen Littlejohn heads to Quang An in Tay Ho to
get a look at a transformed neighbourhoods first steps. Photos by David Harris
and Al Frescos.
Why have these establishments veered
off Xuan Dieus well-beaten path? Ask
any of the proprietors and theyll give you
the same answer: too congested, rising
rents, and a widening of the road at the
top end have stalled opportunities for
growth along the busy West Lake artery.
Query them about Quang Ans strongest
points and theyll come back with the
view, parking, walkability and room to
expand. Plus, theyre hoping the cluster of
international cuisine will generate return
business from curious clients who want to
try something new.
Lakeside pioneer Don Berger, owner
of Dons Bistro, has been in his Quang
Indian Summer
Between The Republic and R&R
Waterfront, India Palace took up residence
a few months ago and is counting on its
food and location to attract customers.
We were on Xuan Dieu for nine years
Growing Pains
Any downsides to all this new activity? Some
critics say its too expat-focused. Others say the
prices are too high. The proprietors counter, if
youre looking for local Vietnamese street food
or a bia hoi, dont come to West Lake.
With such a mix of international
restaurants opening in the area, says The
Republics Chris Vella, people will want to
come out a few times a week to try different
places. We can create a new food culture.
Further Down
On the far end of Quang An in an area
once occupied only by the coconut
cafes and Italian restaurant Da Paolo,
a new hub is growing. With the Phu
Tay Ho pagoda on one side, this little
enclave has already added the popular
Bia Hoi 68, the alternative Tet Dcor
Caf and the more upmarket Backyard
Bia Hoi to its midst. A number of local
restaurants also take up space and
opened at the end of September was a
more upmarket version of Tay Tap.
Watch this space!
HANOI
In July, the American coffee behemoth upped the stakes on its bid to conquer
the Vietnamese market but will it pay o? David Mann gets the word
on Starbucks move into the capital. Photos by David Harris
Backlash
Thats not to say that everyone has welcomed
the US companys arrival.
Its not strong enough compared with
Vietnamese coffee, says taxi driver Thuan
Anh. To pay VND80,000 is also very
expensive, so I think most people wont be
able to afford it.
On the other side of the socioeconomic
spectrum, Hanoi University student Trang
Pham is among a host of coffee-drinkers
who think the novelty of the companys
brand may not be enough to attract young
consumers in the long run.
I went with some friends once. It was nice
but we actually prefer going to the Coffee
Inn, because its cheaper and the coffee tastes
better, she says. But I think the atmosphere
is very mature which is why I think it is
popular with the older business crowd.
Expat Joshua Zukas says, more than
Starbucks economic impact, some will
bemoan the larger impact on Vietnamese
culture.
Having more choice is a good thing
but its annoying from a foreigners
perspective to come to Vietnam and see
Made in Vietnam
All of this overlooks the fact the American
coffee giants entry into Vietnam may benefit
local coffee producers and the industrys 1.6
million workers mostly from the Central
Highlands who rely on the coffee sector to
earn their living.
Starbucks has promised to look at
sourcing more of its coffee locally, which has
reportedly led to some Vietnamese farmers
changing their crops to Arabica beans. At the
moment, however, local newspapers have
reported that Starbucks continues to source
most of its coffee from Yunnan, China.
The branded merchandise that adorns the
walls of Starbucks is also affixed with Made
in China stickers, another reminder of the
importance of economies of scale to their
business model.
For now, none of this has diminished the
novelty of Starbucks entry into the capital,
which has largely been successful. And while
its probably unlikely that it will go broke, time
will tell if Vietnam will truly take off its conical
hat off to the worlds biggest coffee chain.
MYSTERY DINER
HANOI
Foodshop 45
With Namaste tightening up the competition in Hanois Indian food
scene, our mystery diner goes to an old favourite to see if it still delivers.
Photos by David Harris
THE VERDICT
12.5
FOOD
13
SERVICE
10
DCOR
STREET SNACKER
HANOI
For this months Street Snacker, Huyen Tran tries the sunburnt girl of
bun cas. Photos by David Harris
Taking Sides
So now youll ask, which version is better?
It is so hard to vote, says Huong. For
someone like me who used to live in the
seaport city, the way we cook our bun ca
is a tradition of my hometown. But when
I moved here, I got the Hanoi taste, and
its not simply a crush. I am dedicated to
making it better every day, making it as
elegant as it can be.
The Hanoi version of bun ca can be found at
Bun Ca Huong Quynh, 195 and 243 Xa Dan,
Dong Da. The Hai Phong version is offered at
103-D1 Tran Huy Lieu, Ba Dinh. A bowl of bun
ca ranges from VND30,000 to VND45,000
MYSTERY DINER
HCMC
Saigon Indian
One of the citys longest running Indian restaurants, our undercover
reported decided to check out this local favourite. Photos by Glen Riley
Southern Flavour
My trips to Saigon Indian have always
Indian Chinese
With a delivery order thrown in between
my next visit the standouts were the
ochre-based bhindi dry fry (VND65,000)
and the vegetable chettinad (VND70,000),
both dishes that even my mother-in-law
raved over this time round I hit up the
Indian-Chinese section of the menu.
Introduced by Saigon Indian five or
six years ago, as far as I know this is the
only restaurant in Vietnam serving up
this hybrid cuisine immensely popular in
India.
Adjusted to fit the local palate, Indian
Chinese cuisine has been developed over
the past century by the Chinese living in
Kolkata. Flavoured with cumin, coriander
seeds and turmeric, today it is an integral
part of the countrys cuisine.
Not quite sure what to expect, I went for
the paneer Manchurian dry (VND84,000).
It fit perfectly into my preconceptions of
how this hybrid should taste. Essentially
glutinous sweet and sour cottage cheese,
combined with garlic, ginger, green chilli
THE VERDICT
12.5
FOOD
10
SERVICE
12
DCOR
fashion
HIPSTERS.
Words by Duhwee Pham and Ed Weinberg.
Photos by David Harris and Francis
Xavier. Thank you Thanh Em for helping
with the shoot.
HIPSTERS HANOI
Da Noi La (B.I)
Age: 28
Occupation: Production manager at
C.Ks Studio Workstation facebook.
com/C.Ks.Studio
Starting out in the b-boy era, he
hung with the first generation of
hipsters in Hanoi. But as comfortable
as they are, baggy clothes never sat
right with him. Remember The Curious
both
professionally
personally.
and
the
been
youth
dressing
of
Vietnam
with
the
on
Theyve
toned
up
with
tips
from
Tumblr
the
castaways
of
our
more
futuristic
Age: 20
Occupation: The Spicy Bartender of
Daluva, personal stylist, graphic
designer and most importantly The
Queen of Saigon
A
new
addition
to
the
hipster
his
presence
within
the
options
are
limited
Age: 20
Occupation:
Student
at
London
Tuan Anh
Age: 23
Occupation:
Student
at
London
mostly
goes
casual,
street-
time
looking
up
trends,
SCENESTER SAIGON
Frankenstein Truong
Age: 24
Occupation: Multimedia visualist,
freelance
fashion
photographer,
styles.
Franks
favourite
Thao Dominic
Age: 21
Occupation:
editor,
Freelance
runs
the
photo
fashion/
with
cardigans
shirts.
and
Her
floral
kimono
tribal-pattern
favourite
items
Personally
to
me,
would
motto,
and
am
totally
Mike Pham
Age: 26
Occupation: Co-founder and creative
director of Mayhem Saigon facebook.
com/Mayhem.Saigon
Mike
likes
listening
to
music,
Sunny Nguyen
Age: 25
Occupation: Avid culture cultivator
She calls her style intellectual
trailer trash which she gets by
making
contrasting
things
work.
Japanese
floral
Avec attitude.
Sunny recognises a responsibility
to shape and encourage the younger
generation and their talents in
that way, upholding the richness of
Vietnamese culture.
travel
TRAVEL
INTERNATIONAL
Bagan
Often compared to Angkor Wat by people
who call any island with some sand and a
coconut tree the Hawaii of _____, Bagan
Kalaw
Kalaw is a colonial-era hill station in the
central Shan State. A cool and mountainous
place, it was settled by Indian and Nepali
railroad workers after their British overlords
decided that was cheaper than sending them
home. Today most foreign visitors stop there
only briefly en route to Inle Lake, a much
more popular tourist destination. Aside from
a central market and a handful of Nepali
restaurants, there isnt much to do in Kalaw.
Especially when you arrive at 4am.
When I stepped off the bus, I was stunned
by the frigid air. In southern Myanmar I had
never stopped sweating, yet here I might
Hpa An
Hpa An, a tiny town in Myanmars
southeastern Kayin State, is famous for
its cave temples. I use the word famous
liberally few foreign tourists make the
bumpy, crowded journey by night bus from
Yangon. Only a few guesthouses are even
licensed to allow non-Burmese.
Some of the cave temples feature
communal swimming holes fed by
streams of cool, greenish water that trickle
down from the mountains and provide
a welcome respite from the oppressive
Burmese heat. The desk clerk at my
guesthouse recommended I stop at one
for an afternoon dip to catch an authentic
glimpse of local life. It wasnt a hard sell.
When I arrived at the little grotto, I was
welcomed by a frenzy of activity old
travel
The bo
within aompf, boompf
300km split second, boompf of c
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the douh they go dow of each car h anging down
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u
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and eng und 170km/ notches be m speeds o s
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enomen
both dr
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I
Formula
TRAVEL
SINGAP
ORE
One
The Finale
As the cars head to the starting grid, were
downstairs in the festival area, watching the
drama unfold on huge screens. The crowd is
thin but all the pop-up restaurant stalls and
bars already have queues. As the checkered
flag waves, theres a roar from the fans.
45 seconds later the ground beside us
rumbles as the cars fly past out of our sight.
Another 1 minute and 50 seconds later it
happens again, but this time as the field
starts to stretch, the roar is longer. Lap 3, lap
4, lap 5, it extends even further, and then it
starts to come in bursts.
Nothing can prepare you for the
sensation of watching Formula 1 live. TV
doesnt do it justice. First is the speed. Its
phenomenal blink and the cars are gone.
Then the noise. The new V6 Turbo engines
mean that the roar of previous years has
been tempered earplugs are now only
travel
TRAVEL
HCMC
Promising Beginnings
I jump out of bed at 6.30am, raring to go. A
The plantation
stretches as far
as the eyes can
see, and it seems
almost unreal
that we are still
close to the newly
industrialised
parts of Ho Chi
Minh City
The Tunnels
No visit to Vietnam would be complete
without a trip to the Cu Chi Tunnels,
networks of underground passageways
dating back to 1948 that were used by proUnion forces. After recovering in the van,
we embark on a leisurely walking tour as
our guide shows us the various bunkers
and tunnels both original and widened
for larger tourists. It is inspiring to see the
ingenuity that can be brought by need.
Our guide gives us the full lowdown
on how the tunnels were layered and
interconnected, even designed with natural
air conditioning. There are also bunkers
for surgeries on injured combatants, and
travel
Our distribution outlets. Look for the colour closest to you for a
copy of Word magazine. It's free just as all other good things in life.
AIRLINES
travel
AIR ASIA
$$$$
Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063)
3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE
$$$$
12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
$$$
Tel: 0933 446542
bhayacruises.com
Experience breathtaking
tours of the serene Halong
Bay, aboard reproduction
wooden junks. Two or three
night trips with a wide range
of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.
CUC PHUONG
$
Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh
Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006
cucphuongtourism.com
$$$$
Tel: (04) 3935 1888
emeraude-cruises.com
Reproductions, of 19th
century paddle steamers,
trawl around Halong Bay
in colonial style. A classic
experience, complete with,
overnight accommodations
in impeccable cabins suites.
LA FERME DU COLVERT
$$
Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh,
Tel: 02183 825662
etoile-des-mers.com
LA VIE VU LINH
$
Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen
Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743
lavievulinh.com
$
22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 2663
AROUND HANOI
BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER
HOTEL
$$$
KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong
Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031)
388 0888
pearlriverhotel.vn
$$$
Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh,
Tel: (0218) 386 8959
maichaulodge.com
$$
Ha Long Road, Bai Chay
Ward, Ha Long City, Quang
Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108
novotelhalong.com.vn
HANOI - INTERNATIONAL
plimentary Wi-Fi.
$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 6270 6688
crowneplazawesthanoi.com
This premier five-star
property lies beside the My
Dinh National Stadium and
Convention Centre. Boasts
two swimming pools, a spa,
and a fitness centre in its 24
stories.
DAEWOO HOTEL
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3831 5555
www.hanoi-daewoohotel.
com
This enormous structure
offers the most modern of
amenities, and with four
restaurants and two bars,
the events staff is well
equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National
Convention Center, and a
favourite of the business
traveller, Daewoo even
boasts an outdoor driving
range. Shortly to become a
Marriot property.
HOTEL DE LOPERA
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
Resting just a step away
from the Opera House, the
hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.
The first boutique five star
in the heart of Hanoi, the
lavish, uniquely designed
107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and
are complimented by two
restaurants, a bar and com-
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI
WESTLAKE
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6270 8888
www.hanoi.intercontinental.
com
This stunning property built
over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.
Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable,
top-end accommodation and
all the mod-cons make up the
mix here together with the
resorts three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar,
a watering hole located on a
thoroughfare over the lake.
Great gym and health club.
JW MARRIOTT HANOI
8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu
Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833
5588
jwmarriotthanoi.com
From the expressive architecture outside to the
authentic signature JW
Marriott services inside,
this Marriott hotel in Hanoi
is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next
door to the National Convention Centre.
MELIA HANOI
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
www.meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central
Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws
plenty of business travellers and is also a popular
venue for conferences and
wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant
restaurants, stylish bars,
fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house
guests satisfied.
PULLMAN HOTEL
$$$$
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3733 0808
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and
suites, a contemporary
lobby, an excellent buffet,
and a la carte restaurant,
this Accor group property
is prestigious and close to
the Old Quarter.
SHERATON
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
www.sheraton.com/hanoi
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and
tranquil courtyards, this
peaceful property features
picturesque views of West
Lake and is less than 10
minutes from downtown.
In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers
an outdoor swimming pool
www.airasia.com
AIR FRANCE
130 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3825 8583
www.airfrance.com.vn
AIR MEKONG
1st Floor, Centre Point
Building, 106 Nguyen Van
Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: (08) 3846 3999
www.airmekong.com.vn
AMERICAN AIRLINES
194 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330
www.aa.com
CATHAY PACIFIC
5th Floor, Centec Tower,
72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3
Tel: 3822 3203
www.cathaypacific.com/
vn
CHINA AIRLINES
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Tel: 3911 1591
www.china-airlines.com
JAPAN AIRLINES
3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3821 9098
www.vn.jal.com
JETSTAR PACIFIC
www.jetstar.com/vn
KOREAN AIR
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3824 2878
www.koreanair.com
LAO AIRLINES
93 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: 3822 6990
www.laoairlines.com
MALAYSIA AIRLINES
Ground Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1
Tel: 3829 2529
www.malaysiaairlines.
com
SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Saigon Tower Bulding,
Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3823 1588
www.singaporeair.com
THAI AIRWAYS
29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3822 3365
www.thaiairways.com.vn
TIGER AIRWAYS
www.tigerair.com
VIETJETAIR
www.vietjetair.com
VIETNAM AIRLINES
27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
Tel: 3832 0320
www.vietnamairlines.com
travel
HANOI MID-RANGE
6 ON SIXTEEN
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
www.sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to
grace Hanois Old Quarter,
the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with
handicrafts and antique.
Breakfast is included and in
the long, lounge restaurant
on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is
served up with fresh fruit
juices and Lavazza coffee.
$$$
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928
6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the
Old Quarter, this little slice of
heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient
restaurant, serves the finest
in international and Vietnamese cuisine.
$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem
Lake, this glowing pearl in
the heart of Hanoi provides
tranquility with an art gallery
and piano bar.
MAY DE VILLE
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988
Set in the old French Quarter
a short walk from the Opera
House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining
contemporary architecture
with traditional Vietnamese
style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including
four suites.
HANOI BUDGET
HANOI BACKBACKERS HOSTEL
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 5372
www.hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town,
with bunk-style beds mixed
or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus
a couple of double suites
from VND250,000. A place
to meet like-minded fold in
the Old Quarter.
HCMC - INTERNATIONAL
CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Reports
2006 list of the worlds top
100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular
rooftop Saigon Saigon bar,
and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.
DUXTON HOTEL
$$$
63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2999
saigon.duxtonhotels.com
Famous for its daylong
rotatingmenu buffets, the
Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym,
spa, and fine dining.
limousine services.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON
$$$$$
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh
City, resides the Asiana with
signature dining options,
an innovative cocktail bar,
exclusive spa and health
club, together with luxury
boutique arcade.
$$$$
2A4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture,
spacious rooms, and a fine
selection of fine dining, with
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
$$$$
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Former guests include U.S.
presidents two Bushes,
Clinton and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event
as well as a hotel, New World
is one of the best luxury
stops in town.
PARK HYATT
$$$$$
2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in
location, everything one
would expect from the Hyatt.
The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants
have garnered an excellent
reputation, as has the landscaped pool.
$$$
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property
boasts seven dining and
entertainment outlets, a
business centre, meeting
rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.
The Equatorial also has an
on-site casino.
REX HOTEL
$$$$$
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 7777
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex
offers: 14 instant offices,
seven meeting rooms, a
600-capacity ballroom, spa,
outdoor swimming pool, a
gym, 24-hour fine dining,
24-hours room service, and
RIVERSIDE HOTEL
$$$$$
1819-20 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417
riversidehotelsg.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers
complimentary Wi-Fi, airport
pickup or drop off, a 4th floor
ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River
Restaurant.
SHERATON
$$$$
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
This 20story building in
downtown Saigon, caters
to upscale business and
leisure travelers seeking a
classic yet contemporary
stay in Saigon.
WINDSOR PLAZA
$$$
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its
own shopping hub (including
a bank), fine dining, a sauna,
health club, and superb
panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest
Oktoberfest in the region.
HCMC - DELUXE
CONTINENTAL
$$$$$
88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of
the best locations in town,
with firstclass facilities,
an openair restaurant 23
floors above the city and
$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn
This charming old hotel has
been fted in literature and
in film. In the heart of Saigon,
this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.
HOTEL MAJESTIC
$$$
1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 5517
majesticsaigon.com.vn
NORFOLK HOTEL
$$$
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique
business hotel is located
minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and
is renowned for its fabulous
steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.
$$$
167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3822 4866
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has
a contemporary feel, an
international buffet The
Square a rooftop bar, and
a wellness centre including a
swimming pool, gym, sauna
and spa.
$$$
144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
The newly-built hotel is near
Tan Son Nhat International
Airport. With spectacular
Josephs Hotel
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
Next to the cathedral
$$$$$
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the
site of the old Metropole,
this upscale, contemporary
property boasts 306 signature rooms combining
design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine,
a great downtown location
and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600
guests make up the mix.
EQUATORIAL
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
$$$$
141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2185
rexhotelvietnam.com
Brimming with history the
Rexs openair fifthfloor
bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now
five-star property, boasts
designer fashion and a shopping arcade.
travel
city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming
pool, there is little reason not
to choose this shining star.
HCMC - MID-RANGE
ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$
133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 5914
kimdohotel.com
EMM HOTEL
157 Pasteur, Q3
A sleek, contemporary
three-star hotel that mixes
vintage appeal and modern
chic thanks to a subdued
palette of white and grey
around two pop colours:
azalea pink and green hot
pepper. Part of the Thien
Minh Group that includes
Victoria Hotels and Buffalo
Tours.
$$$
46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa
Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
$$
195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2222
thaodienvillage.com
A colonialstyle hotel and
spa offers fine Italian, Thai
and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view
that overlook the bank of
the Saigon River, this is truly
someplace special.
$$$
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,
Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256
9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
HCMC - BUDGET
DUC VUONG HOTEL
$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 6992
ducvuonghotel.com
Free WiFi offered in every
room. Low prices, friendly
staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps
from the backpackers area.
DUNA HOTEL
$
167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel:
(08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
$
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
$
157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
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CUA DAI
$
544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:
(0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
$$$
Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu
Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 396 1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
$$$$
Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da
Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang
Resort and Spa is beachfront
with a stunning view of the
Marble Mountains. There
are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.
$$$
Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui
Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel:
(0510) 354 5105
domainedetamhai.com
$$$
1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An,
Tel: (0510) 391 4555
life-resorts.com
MERCURE DANANG
$$$
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379
7777
mercure-danang.com
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the white sands
of Bac My An beach close
to both Danang and Hoi An,
the welcoming and modern
Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities
and facilities for a dynamic
escape. Perfect for a family
holiday or a romantic beach
getaway.
$$$$
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village,
Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394
0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnams South
Central Coast, Angsana Lang
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encompasses the resorts contemporary buildings and chic
interiors.
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/
lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The
Banyan Tree offers privacy
and unparalleled exclusivity
with all-pool villas reflecting
the cultural and historical
legacy of past Vietnamese
dynastic periods.
LA RESIDENCE
$$$$
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383
7475
laresidencehue.com
$
66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382
6736
hoangphuonghotel.com
NHA TRANG
EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX
SENSES SPA
$$$$
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)
352 2222
sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/
destination
2.6 hectares of private
beachside gardens and
villastyle accommodation
furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool
bar and the signature Six
Senses Spa.
$
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this
budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.
$$$$
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:
(058) 398 9666
mianhatrang.com
$$$
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:
(058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with
154 guestrooms, all with
a terrace and sea view.
Complete with a pool, spa,
restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up
to 200 delegates.
$$$
1214 Tran Phu, Nha Trang,
Tel: (058) 382 0999
sunrisenhatrang.com.vn
$$
Tel: (058) 384 0501
whaleislandresort.com
$$$$
8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
374 3777
allezboo.com
This resort offers exotic
Balistyle, thatched roof
honeymoon villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms,
fresh seafood, Vietnamese
cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing
and parasailing.
$$$$
54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
384 7322
blueoceanresort.com.vn
life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH
$$$$
58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
384 7111
cocobeach.net
With charming wooden
bungalows, a private beach,
a swimming pool (both with
attached bars) and a French
restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who
opened it in 1995.
$$$
24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
$$$$
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,
Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria
chain, the thatchedroof
bungalows and family villas
are set in exotic gardens
with an infinity swimming
pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and
jacuzzi.
PHONG NHA
EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR
$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail.
com
A hostel and street-front bar
all in one. Has a pleasant,
airy atmosphere in the bar
and restaurant area while
the 52 dorm beds four
beds to a room go for
US$8 (VND168,000) each a
night.
HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY
$$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
phong-nha-homestay.com
PEPPER HOUSE
$
Tel: 01678 731560
pepperhouse-homestay.com
$$
Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers joint
has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool
out back and views overlooking paddy fields and
mountains. Rooms start at
VND600,000 for a twin or
$$
Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo
Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052)
367 5999
phongnhalakehouse.com
$$$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016
sgphongnhahotel@yahoo.
com.vn
PHU QUOC
BEACH CLUB RESORT
$$
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island
guesthouse featuring a
beachside restaurant, and
includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and
tours are easily arranged.
Discount rates during rainy
season.
$$$$
Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua
Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang,
Tel: (077) 399 5895
centarahotelsresorts.com
MANGO BAY
$$
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An ecofriendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.
SAPA
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
$$
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203
871946
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from its
bar restaurant, the Cat Cat
Guesthouse is paradise at
very reasonable rates. The
rooms have big windows,
balconies, and log fireplaces.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$$
Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai
Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)
topasecolodge.com
With its panoramic views of
the surrounding mountains
and valley, Topas Ecolodge
is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and
quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains the
landscape, the fresh air and
the ethnic peoples. Guests
stay in private bungalows
travel
with dinner served in a local
stilt house restaurant.
REX HOTEL
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$
24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel:
0203 872404
topasecolodge.com
For the environmentally
conscientious, 25 individual
lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar
technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also
organises treks and bicycle
tours.
VICTORIA SAPA
$$$
Tel: 0203 871522
victoriahotels.asia
$$$$
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
$$
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con
Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064)
383 0939
condaoresort.vn
HO TRAM SANCTUARY
$$$$
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come
with their own pool and have
direct access to the beach.
Extras include tennis courts,
a mini supermarket, and cy-
$$
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
$$$$
Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao
EXOTISSIMO
66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3828 2150
www.exotissimo.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel
agency with an extensive
operational track record in
the Indochina region and
beyond. Providing up-market
services, Exotissimo brings
their clients close to culture
through personalised tours.
Also find travel desks at the
Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which
are open on weekends and
holidays.
HANDSPAN TRAVEL
78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3926 2828
www.handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers
with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular
and isolated locations in
Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable
and responsible tourism
initiatives. Also provides to
excursions to more wellworn destinations.
SYRENA CRUISES
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 7214
www.syrenacruises.com
If youre thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while
enjoying luxury comfort,
Syrena Cruises could be the
quencher youre looking for.
Forget drinking games and
backpackers by relaxing on
one of the two wooden boats
from the fleet. Alone, as a
couple or with a group, 34
luxurious cabins and suites
are all ready for action. All
you have to do is decide on
how long you want to holiday for.
EXOTISSIMO
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)
3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotissimo.com
A reliable and experienced
travel company operating
through Southeast Asia,
Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the
region, many including insights into culinary customs,
handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.
HG TRAVEL
47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
www.hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising
in small-group tours around
Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole
representative agent for
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities
in Africa www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines
(www.aa.com) and Turkish
Airlines (www.thy.com).
www.cocobeach.net
paradise@cocobeach.net
INDOCHINA LAND
61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2852
www.indochina-land.com
travel
TRAVEL PROMOS
FLY VIETNAM
flyvietnam.com
TERRAVERDE
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di,
Ward 4, Tan Binh District,
Tel: (08) 3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through
the Mekong Delta, trekking
in the highlands, or lazing in
a junk on Ha Long Bay all
while making a difference in
peoples lives then this
company will suit you well.
TU TRAVEL
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho
City, Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
Golf Seaside
@ InterContinental Nha Trang
nhatrang.intercontinental.com
Golf couples: get your clubs
out. The InterCon Nha Trang is
partnering with Vinpearl Golf Club
Nha Trang to get you swinging,
with a cushy deluxe room for
you to enjoy afterwards based on
double occupancy. The Golf Package
starts at VND3.7 million++ per
person, with a minimum stay of
two nights.
Womens Day
@ Novotel Nha Trang
novotel-nhatrang.com
As the Novotel Nha Trang knows,
ladies love seafood. So what better
gift to give the women in your
Van Chai
vanchai-vn.com
Thanh Hoa, that province just
north of Vinh and south of Ninh
Binh, is home to one top-end resort
Van Chai. And from Oct. 1 to
Dec. 31 this oasis in the middle of
all that chaos is offering deals to
keep you calm. With rooms going
for only VND1.4 nett per night,
guests can also take advantage
of the 10 percent discount at the
propertys restaurant and 20
percent off all treatments at Co
Nature Spa.
Email sales@vanchai-vn.com for
details
Hanoi
RECALLING HANOI // COFFEE CUP // FOOD PROMOS // THE ALCHEMIST // THE THERAPIST //
MEDICAL BUFF // BOOK BUFF
PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA
wordvietnam.com | October 2014 Word | 131
hanoi
old quarter
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS
DRAGONFLY
DANCEHALL LOUNGE
15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 4926 2177
11am to late
One of the better venues in
the Old Quarter for dancing
on the weekends. Although
crammed into a small space,
cheap drinks and a mix of
chart chits makes Dragonfly
the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident
looking to get up on the
dance floor. If you dont feel
like dancing, relax upstairs
with shisha and friends with
one of the two lounges on
the second floor. The sister
venue on Phung Hung has a
bigger menu and an earlier
opening hour (11am instead
of 6pm) but still keeps with
the shisha, pool table and
dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.
FATCAT BAR
FUNKY BUDDHA
ELECTRO LOUNGE
2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3292 7614
8pm to late
IRISH WOLFHOUND
IRISH PUB
4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821
irishwolfhoundpub.com
8am to 2am
The open-air watering hole
with seating on the pavement
is a great spot to enjoy a tall
dark stout or light pilsner at
anytime, day or night. What it
lacks in gaudy decorations,
it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and
billiards on the third floor.
Has a decent food menu and
even better pizzas.
LA BOMBA LATINA
LATIN BAR
46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: 0917 245155
LE PUB
BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL
RESTOBAR
25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 2104
7am to midnight
Dark red walls and even
darker brown seating run
through the homely and
casual Le Pub, one of the few
bars in town with a regular
stream of clientele. A long
list of imported beer, Tiger
draft, a decent international
cum Vietnamese food menu,
happy hour specials and live
sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets
involved in the local community through regular events.
MOJITO BAR
THE CART
POLITE PUB
LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3825 0959
5pm to 2am
A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest
pubs in the city, this staple
watering hole on Bao Khanh
continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi
has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals
and expats who find solace
in the nightly conversations
at the long bar, billiards and
live football matches.
ROCKSTORE
LIVE MUSIC BAR
61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
01653 336087
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock
Cafe without the stigma and
the expensive prices. Nightly
live music or DJing events
are coupled with creative
decor, a selection of Belgian
Beer and a food menu.
SPY BAR
TEMPLE BAR
TET BAR
LATE-NIGHT BAR
2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 3050
THE SPOT
CAFES
CAFE PHO CO
JOMA
INTERNATIONAL CAFE
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem
joma.biz
Housed in a two-storey con-
COFFEE/BAKERY
222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 3388
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi
in 2009. Joma contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KINH DO
MOCA CAFE
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
(04) 3825 6334
8am to 10pm
Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly
location gives Moca a large
amount of guidebook-driven
clientele. But dont let this put
you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good
WiFi and some of the best
coffee in town makes this
a great spot to while away
a couple of hours. The food
menu mixes Vietnamese fare
with sandwiches, western
and pan-Asian mains.
PUKU
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745
Open 24 hours
This spacious spot on food
street is open around the
clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along
with more eclectic Irish
nachos, cottage pies and
pan-Asian fare. Upstairs
is fit for social gatherings
and live music while the no-
SKATESHOP
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 1147
Booskateshop.com
CONTRABAND
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9891
Launched in Hanoi in 2007,
Contraband targets young
hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look
after making them ideal for
work and travel. New styles
are introduced each month
LATELIER
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem.
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital has seen
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3828 6965
This shops motto Western
sizes, Vietnamese prices,
says it all. While mostly retailing womens separates
in soft cotton jersey and
linen, the store also carries a range of accessories
like embroidered canvas
totes and printed tees. Has
a good selection of unique
mens shirts.
THREE TREES
JEWELLERY
15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3928 8725
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang
Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
hanoi
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 2645
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital will see
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
CAFE DE PARIS
FRENCH BISTRO
12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327
cafedeparis-hanoi.com
8am to 11pm
Thanks to its original tiled
floor, cast iron backed
chairs and wall-hung black
and white photography,
there is something decidedly
charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar.
Serving up a simple menu
of snacks such as quiche
Lorraine, Paris beurre and
croque monsieur, there is
also a selection of classic
but unpretentious French
mains. Has a daily specials
board and a decent range
of pizzas.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3993 1399
10am to 10.30pm
A slither of a joint serving
up the same fare that the
lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an
international version of the
mighty curry they even
sell pork and beef here the
menu keeps to the northern
part of the subcontinent with
masala, dopiaza, korma and
the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a
good range of breads and
tandoor-cooked kebabs.
GREEN MANGO
WESTERN / VIETNAMESE
18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9916
greenmango.vn
7.30am to 11.30pm
GREEN TANGERINE
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926
0639
10am to midnight
LITTLE INDIA
LA RESTAURANT
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 8933
8am to 10pm
The complimentary warm
bread with rosemary is
reason enough to visit this
homely spot featuring hearty
lentil and black bean soups,
along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef
tenderloin or tofu with chilli
and mushrooms. We arent
quite sure why the Miele
Guide nominated it as one of
Asias finest restaurants as
service is lackadaisical and
tables could use candles to
improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately
tasty dishes more than make
up for any quips.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3828 9052
8am to 11pm
A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed caf
and bar with an extensive
list of reliable cuisine. Tapas
are available, as well as full
courses such as veal, and
duck with currant sauce.
Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-
LITTLE HANOI
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 8333
7.30am to 11pm
MEDITERRANEO
PAN-ITALIAN
23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3826 6288
10am to 11pm
This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral
serves all the traditional
Italian fare you could need
homemade mozzarella
and fresh pasta, spinach
and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
boards, soups, salads and
fish. Throw in an extensive
wine list, a traditional wood
fire oven and a balcony spot
looking over Hanois trendy
caf scene and youre onto
a winner.
MILLENIUM
PAN-FRENCH
11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10pm
Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium
restaurant is the minimal
and chic result of a Caf Des
Arts makeover. The streets
new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking
goes over two floors and
has a welcome and inviting
three-level outdoor terrace
high up amid the concrete
and cables of the Old Quarter.
NAMASTE HANOI
PAN-INDIAN
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 3935 2400
namastehanoi.com
11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10.30pm
The latest newcomer to the
Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in
dishes from both northern
and southern India using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you
between VND150,000 and
VND300,000 and everything
is there, from curries and
breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or
out with a free delivery.
OLD HANOI
GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 8337
10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm
Gordon Ramsay once filmed
a show at this restaurant in
a renovated French villa and
now the ribs carry his namesake. But its the twist on old
world favourites, think fried
snail spring rolls and min-
SOUTHGATE
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 1979
southgatehanoi.com
THE KAFE
TAMARIND
CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN
80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 0580
5.30am to 10.30pm
Perhaps the only restaurant
in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesnt focus on
faux meat. Features a wide
range of juices and shakes
in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has
Asian favourites like veg-
SPICE
TANDOOR
PAN-INDIAN
24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3824 5359
11am to 10.30pm
A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising
in Northern Indian cuisine.
Has an indoor and upstairs,
white tablecloth aircon
area with a more casual
dining and bar space out
front. Does excellent kebabs
served from an authentic
tandoor oven as well as the
full range of mainly North
Indian curries. Also has a
branch in Saigon and does
excellent set lunches.
ZENITH YOGA
WINE RETAILER
1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 1393
Part of the Tan Khoa chain,
the largest liquor and wine
distributor in the country,
the walls here are lined with
a decent selection of wines,
pleasantly arrayed and back
lit. Besides their selection of
new and old world wines
Helpful staff and free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 7666
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams
ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of
the greatest wines from the
best wine-growing regions
on the planet. The portfolio
mixes the best of both old
and new world wines.
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
SUPERMARKETS
BIG C SUPERMARKET
222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau
Giay
FIVIMART
210 Tran Quang Khai,
Hoan Kiem
10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh
671 Hong Hoa Tham,
Ba Dinh
71 Nguyen Chi Thanh,
Dong Da
51 Xun Dieu, Tay Ho
93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
Online shopping: www.
fivimart.com.vn
INTIMEX
22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan
Kiem
131-135 Hao Nam, Dong
Da
17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba
Trung
27 Huynh Thuc Khang,
Dong Da
METRO
126 Tam Trinh, Yen So,
Hoang Mai
Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue,
Tu Liem
RECALLING HANOI
PART SIX
Ms Thu
Sons and lovers
Location: Truc Bach Lake
It was a summers evening. I was selling
tickets and we had so many young
customers that night. Suddenly a lady
appeared who seemed to be looking for
something. After a while she came to ask
me if her son was boating on the lake. I
had no idea, so she explained that she was
unhappy with him meeting his girlfriend
in places like this when they were only
high school students. His motorbike was
in the car park nearby, so she wanted to
rent a boat to find him on the lake. I could
not let her disturb the other customers by
hanoi
BY JULIE VOLA
Son Lam
Living a Dream
Location: The stadium at the University of Foreign Languages
It might be my bad luck to have been born
disabled, but I have never felt sorry for
myself. Instead, I had a marvellous dream.
I loved football and football players from
England the land of fog, or so I was
told. My own difficulty prevented me from
running after the ball with all my body and
soul like those great players, so I decided
that I could run with them from backstage
instead as a football commentator.
My dream meant I was interested in
studying foreign languages, starting with
English and then later Japanese. In the
hanoi
COFFEE CUP
CAF NHA SAN
Access to Inspiration
As you walk through coloured drapes
into the cafs calming open-air layout,
youll feel like youve stepped back
in time. The furniture itself is from
Vietnams Subsidy Era, while everything
from empty mortar shells, transistor
radios, water canisters and antique
medals line the shelves in an ode to the
countrys wartime history.
The menus have been enscribed
onto worn Russian volumes of books,
in between pages of Cyrillic code. In
some parts of the cafe, tables have been
replaced with old green war chests that
were used to transport weapons during
the war. A restored Honda 67 and a
rusty Thong Nhat bicycle also make
hanoi
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE
SOCIETY (HITS)
hoan kiem
THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com
LESPACE
PARIS DELI
B i
Triu
Hng
Hu
Phan
Chu
Trin
h
Q u
n S
inh Ti
n H o n g
Hng
Phng
H n g G
Hng iu
Hng
Phng
Qun
Nguy
n Du
Trn
Hn
g
o
L Vn H u
h
Hn T
uyn
MODEL CLUB
CATWALK BAR
45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung
8pm to late
PHUC TAN
RELAX BAR
ROOFTOP
SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B
Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3946 1901
8am to midnight
ZONE 17
CAF / BOULANGERIE
6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269
7.30am to 11pm
Time has been good to this
airy, bistro-style caf and
patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital,
despite its prime location
prices remain reasonable
espresso-style coffees cost
around VND40,000 and
the cakes and croissants
are moreish. Also does filled
baguettes and a larger cafcum-restaurant menu. Has a
second establishment at 13
Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
Tin
nh D
Kh
Trn
FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
6282 5555
Hoteldelopera.com
7am to 2am
La Fe Verte (or the Green
Fairy) is a metaphor for the
decadence of another age,
an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The
signature bar of the Hotel
de lOpra Hanoi where, just
as in Paris at the dawn of the
20th century, the making of an
evening drink a lavish event
of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge
atmosphere, great music and
ultra-contemporary interior
design combine to bring a
genuine sense of occasion to
after-dark in the capital.
+84 BAR
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17 COWBOYS
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L Thi T
Ngu
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Nguyn
Tri Ph
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D
t
L Thi T
Trn
g
ng
Ch
Cu
Nh
o
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H
Ph
Thi
Cu G
ng
Trn
Hn
g
o
L Dun
n
Bi
n
Tr
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Xu
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L
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H
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Bi
L Dun
n
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H
Trn
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LA FE VERTE
g
Lon
Cu
Ph
Hong Di
u
n
Y
HOAN KIEM
DISTRICT
BAMBOO BAR
17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem
The first bar in what will
eventually (hopefully) be a
CAFES
CIAO CAF
RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3934 1494
7am to 11pm
A stones throw from the
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
this Saigonese franchise
tries its hand with a variety
of different western dishes
at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and
a steady, young Vietnamese
crowd, the establishment is
a great place to squash a
sandwich or bowl of pasta
and people watch. Oh, and
they also do coffee, too.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,
Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
KINH DO
CINEMAS
CINEMATHEQUE
ARTS CINEMA
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648
Not a movie theatre per se,
but a private film club that
charges a membership fee in
return for entrance to a wide
selection of movies, new and
old. The management has
an eclectic taste and shows
films from all over the world.
EVENT SPACE
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 1850
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
ANGELINA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
11.30am to 2.30pm and
6.30am to late (restaurant)
11am to 2am (bar)
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts of
meat to the table for patrons
to pick and choose, all for a
set price. They also offer wine
pairings, a salad bar and an a
la carte menu, with a creative
selection of fruit caipirinhas
on hand to wash it all down.
The prices arent for anyone
on a budget, but the amount
and quality of meat is more
than worth cost.
CAF LAUTREC
MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
6282 5555
6am to 10pm
Featuring both -la-carte
and buffet dining as well
as an innovative Sunday
brunch, this namesake of the
French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a
mixture of international and
Mediterranean-style fare.
Has an extensive wine list
to match the cuisine, which
is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired
environment.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 7280
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contem-
JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388
alfrescogroup.com
9.30am to midnight
Then newest venture from
the team behind Jaspas
and Pepperonis is an all-day
eating and drinking lounge fit
for all occasions. It has three
floors for different vibes
lounge bar, restaurant and
boardroom but fine imported steads can be found
on each, as well as seafood
and a huge wine list. A popular venue.
JASPAS
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba
Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
6.30am to midnight
Recently refurbished, the
Australian-influenced Jaspas is known for its attentive
service, tasty food and large
portions. A place with something for everyone, it has
proved itself to be popular
with both the western and
Asian expat communities
who come back again and
again. The comprehensive
menu is a fusion of western
and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is
mainly New World. Also has
a spacious bar and lounge
area that stays open late for
all the live sport.
LA BADIANE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3942 4509
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to
10pm. Closed Sunday night.
A white-washed, colonial
era villa replete with period
wooden shutters greets you
as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.
Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or
take to the leafy covered
terrace out back with its
walls lined with art and photography from 21st century
Hanoi. The menu here mixes
modern Gallic cuisine with a
touch of Mediterranean and
Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an
extensive wine list and an
excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.
hanoi
SATINE
FOOD PROMOS
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414
hoteldelopera.com
SUPERMARKET
Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 2999
DA LOC
WINE RETAILER
96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3941 2789
Daloc.vn
FIVIMART
SUPERMARKET
27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
HANOI GOURMET
INTIMEX
VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET
22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04)
3943 7226
GROCERY STORE
17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 3854
Steamboat Weekends
Just in time for the cooler weather
of the Hanoi Autumn, El Oriental
at The Melia is putting on a special
steamboat menu every Friday and
Saturday from 5.30pm to 10pm.
Every steamboat is for two
people and there are three options
classic (VND480,000++), mixed
(VND 550,000++) and premium
seafood VND 750,000++).
For more information and
reservations, please contact: (04) 3934
3343 ext. 7507. The Melia is at 44B Ly
Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
hanoi
LUNO DAUTUNNO
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
tay ho
ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES /
CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES
CLASSIC ITALIAN
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823
7338
11am to 11pm
This old-favourite Italian
uses traditional wood ovens
to prepare some of the citys
finest pizzas, which range
from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.
Set inside a large, thoughtful
space seasoned chefs also
make fresh pastas, soups
and cheeses the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights
make it well worth a visit, as
does the large wine list and
choice of desserts.
n
A n Dng V g
TAY HO
DISTRICT
Tn
u C
Xu
c Long Qun
Ni
Thanh
Ho
n
ARTS
WORK ROOM FOUR
Thm
g
Ho
Bi
hanoirockcity.com
5pm to midnight
With a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an
upstairs space dedicated to
live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the
only venue in the capital
of its kind. Has weekly live
events featuring bands both
from Vietnam and overseas
established and up and
coming. Email jimihendrix@
hanoirockcity.com for more
information or check out
their page on Facebook.
LIQUOR LOUNGE
31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6377
sontinh.com
8am to 11.30pm
As part of the Highway 4
group, which now has its
offices in the establishments upstairs areas, this
bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish
furnishings is famed for its
luxurious rice wine liquors
and newly created cocktail
class. Does regular events
on the first floor and also
has a creative Vietnamese
food menu based on cuisine
sold at other restaurants in
the chain.
MADAKE
CONTEMPORARY RESTOBAR
81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 6276 6665 or 0984
002181
Ph
Qun Th
Phan
nh P
h n g
TAY TAP
SPORTS BAR/GRILL
40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel:
(04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
11am to 12am
This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the
main drag of Xuan Dieu is
perpetually crowded with
regulars drinking out front
on plastic stools. Notorious
for its mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh to order,
Tracys is most famous for
their draft beers, claiming
to serve the coldest draft
beer in Hanoi, and always
in a frosted mug. For those
missing their dose of North
American sports, they play
all day via satellite on two
plasmas.
COFFEE/BAKERY
43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6071
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KUB CAFE
BIKING CAFE
so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho
kub.vn
Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub
Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole
bringing thats become a favorite of the motorbike clubs.
Does good on-the-table bia
hoi and runs biking events.
nh
N guyn Phong S c
Th
n
Y
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934
0888
hanoi-pressclub.com
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm
to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday
lunch
Wooden flooring, paneling
and bold but subtle colours
pervade this traditional but
contemporary, fine-dining
70-seater venue close to
the Opera House. Serving
up quality cuisine for over a
decade, Press Club boasts
a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine
room, a library and a vast
selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four
excellent wine pairing menus,
put together through the aid
of the Press Clubs extensive
new and old world wine list.
Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.
Tm
PRESS CLUB
oa
PAN-ITALIAN
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
8am to 10.30pm
Just a stroll away from the
Hanoi Opera House and
Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart
of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves
up authentic Italian food
and has done for as long as
anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated,
oven fresh pizzas and large
variety of pasta and salad
dishes look forward to fine
food done well at this eatery
that has the feel of Europe.
Huge wine lists, friendly staff
and a loveable owner.
Ho
n
PANE E VINO
hi
Ng
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm
Di
u
NINETEEN 11
Qu
n
g
n
g V
Ngu
yn
Ho
ng
Lo
ng
Lc
LE BEAULIEU
MEET-UP SPOT
100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6917
4pm to late
Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar
with two beers on tap as
well as wine, cocktails and
spirits on the shelves this
newcomer venue has a grill
menu catering to the tastes
of both East and West. For
BOOK SHOPS
BOOKWORM TOO
CAFES
COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
LA GRACE
SAINT HONORE
CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3933 2355
st.honorehn@gmail.com
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this
cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in
the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk
through the door. Serving
all day long, the downstairs
space is split into the bakery
on one side with a small non-
hanoi
THE ALCHEMIST
ONE LIFE TO LIVE
Fact of Lives
In the spiritual realm, reincarnation
is accepted as fact and it is from this
standpoint I base this article. The article
is not an argument for the existence of
reincarnation the empirical evidence
is lacking to scientifically confirm it
however there have been some interesting
studies that warrant a closer look at the
topic.
BY KAREN GAY
THE CART
CLOTHING
GEORGES FASHION BOUTIQUE
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6233
With new styles arriving in store
every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses,
shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported
fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from
petite to average to the generous
figure. Alterations and a madeto-measure service are available
at no extra cost.
LATELIER
COOKING CLASSES
HIDDEN HANOI
COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912
254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these
well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will
guide you through the secrets of
Vietnamese cooking in an open
air courtyard.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3719 5322
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
DA PAOLO
GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Fair trade or bought directly
from the artisans who made
them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the
world as well as second-hand
books, DVDs and more.
LA CASA
CONTEMPORARY DESIGN
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084
lacasavietnam.com.vn
A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other
household objects, this spot
has everything from beds and
bookshelves, to tableware and
silverware. The items are all
locally made by skilled artisans
from Hanoi and the surrounding
regions.
MEKONG QUILTS
BICYCLE RENTALS
16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
CYCLING COLLECTIVE
44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai
Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317
11am to 11pm
This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to
the famed lawn chair and coconut caf on West Lake has
all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long
time former manager of Luna
DAutunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas
from VND120,000 and other
Italian delicacies. Open every
day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.
DALUVA
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 5831
daluva.com
8am until late
A popular hang-out for expats
and trendy Vietnamese in the
Xuan Dieu area on West Lake.
This bar and restaurant offers
casual dining with a classy,
Middle-Eastern twist, as well as
wine, tapas, events and attractive dcor.
DONS TAY HO
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and
preparation with great service
in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three
floors. Already with venues in
Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is
quality top grade meats off the
grill. Steak is the mainstay, but
everything from chicken, pork
and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting
and an extensive wine list and
thats another reason to head to
El Gaucho.
HALIA HANOI
SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY
INTERNATIONAL
29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3946 0121
thehalia.com
Daily 11am to 11pm
A multi-floored venue with a bar
area and a refined dining space.
The menu includes Singaporean
specialities such as the shrimp
satay salad and the chilli crab
spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light
Asian flavours is also on offer.
Has an extensive wine list.
IL FARO
ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN
Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 6327 1142
Hidden away in Cong Doan Hotel,
this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned by the same people
behind Mediterraneo serves up
an assortment of French, Spanish and Italian dishes in a pleasant, white-washed yet Italianinfluenced atmosphere.
INDIA PALACE
NORTH INDIAN
10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247
668668
indiapalacehn@vnn.vn
Like a phoenix rising from the
ashes, so India Palace has once
again returned to Tay Ho, this
time on the strip between Dons
and The Warehouse. Tasty North
Indian fare in a pleasant envi-
hanoi
THE THERAPIST
This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health
counsellor, deals with a question of trauma and healing
Dear Douglas,
A housemate, who is also a friend of mine,
witnessed a gruesome motorbike accident,
where the passenger was thrown into a pole
and then run over by another motorbike.
She died at the scene. Other people were
also hurt. He is definitely freaked out. He is
having trouble sleeping and skipped work
yesterday. His friends are worried about
him and not sure how to help him. Should
he see a psychologist? How can we convince
him to go?
Worried Friends
Friends,
He is fortunate that he has friends who are
paying attention and concerned for him.
Yes, he has been traumatised, and will
undoubtedly need to work through the
ways that this event has affected him.
Often the first response is to be flooded
with images and details of the event.
He may have wanted to talk about it
again and again. Other times, a person is
overwhelmed and seems to shut down any
emotional response and becomes distant
and disconnected. Shock is a kind of internal
protection device that keeps someone from
being overwhelmed. Eventually, it is likely
that he will notice that he is thinking and
feeling differently. Traumas are events
J.A.F.A.
INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3758 2400
7am to 11pm
One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is
a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages
are not the cheapest, but this
is made up for by service and
ambiance. They also have a full
menu featuring familiar western
dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic
buffets and drink specials are
also offered.
KITCHEN
R&R TAVERN
SAINT HONORE
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3933 2355
sainthonore.com.vn
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this bakery
and French-style bistro is best
visited in the morning when that
Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through
the door. The downstairs space is
split into the bakery on one side
with a small non-smoking dining
space on the other. The upstairs
lounge area has standard tables
as well as sofa seating. Simple
French and international fare
is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien,
Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8
Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da
TAKEAWAY PIES
2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena
CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE
10A Quang An (ngo 27 Xuan
Dieu), Tay Ho.
Tel: 0934 544263
thesushiclub.info
Featuring a delicious combination of contemporary Japanese
dishes as well as other traditional Japanese favorites, The Sushi
Club combines great cuisine with
charming views over West Lake.
The ambience is warm and comfortable making it the perfect
place for dating, business dinners, meeting friends and family
gatherings. Quiet private rooms
are available.
EXPAT SERVIES
MAID IN VIETNAM
HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES
Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 3112
maidinvietnam.com
Offering a licensed hire service
for trained domestic and office
housemaids, cooks and nannies.
Courses include health checks,
housekeeping, safety, basic 1st
Aid, courses for external maids
and household management for
Vietnamese wives of foreigners.
HANOI CLUB
COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823
8115
thehanoiclub.com
HANOI OIS
hanoinetball@gmail.com
Hanoi Ois Netball Club is a mixed
ability, mixed gender club for
adults wanting to enjoy team
sport while also improving fitness and developing skills. The
club plays every Tuesday from
6pm to 7pm at UNIS. Email for
more information
VIETCLIMB
CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel:
0914 143185
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find,
VietClimb is a French-owned,
200-meter climbing gym with
state-of-the-art courses. There
are 100 different climbing routes
within the gym that are changed
every few months. They offer
clinics, classes and childrens
events. Membership and group
rates are available, but be sure to
check out the three-month pass.
ZENITH YOGA
ANNAM GOURMET
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 4487
KITCHEN ART
KITCHENWARE
38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6680 2770
kitchenart.vn
Kitchen Art is a little haven for
all foodies, cooks and bakers
to grow their love and passion
for cooking and baking. Come to
Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients
to cook like a chef, take part in
regular demonstrations and
workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying
the peaceful West Lake view.
L'S PLACE
GROCERY SHOP
3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3719 9911
NATURALLY VIETNAM
PUNTO ITALIA
COFFEE MACHINES
62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6258 3510
puntoitalia.asia
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04)
3719 8337
THE OASIS
ITALIAN DELI
24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3719 1196
A great place to get all kinds of
imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads
and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of
fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a
fantastic deli and cheese case.
Free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3718 3701
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams ultimate premium wine importer,
distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest
wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The
portfolio mixes the best of both
old and new world wines.
HOLISTIC HEALTH
A-ROAMING BODYWORKER
karen@a-roamingbodyworker.
com
a-roamingbodyworker.com
Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include
craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage,
healing stones massage, as well
as energy healing including Reiki
and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops
are also available.
hanoi
ba dinh
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT /
FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL
FOODSHOP 45
Ph
ETE BAR
FRENCH LOUNGE
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 751331
10am to midnight
A favourite among those who
roam further west of the
city centre, this multi-storey
restobar has been going
strong for more than two
years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar
guarding exactly 50 different
cocktails. For many the Ete
burger is right on the mark
as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. Its always
crowded especially during the weekends. Amiable
staff, pleasant vibes.
SUMMIT LOUNGE
BOOKSHOPS
BOOKWORM
BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
CAFES
CAF GOETHE
ARTS CAF
56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 3734 7395
CONG CAPHE
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HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh
(Next to the Flag Tower) Tel:
(04) 3823 3339
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
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THE VAULT
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BA DINH
DISTRICT
COOKING CLASSES
HANOI COOKING CENTRE
COOKING CENTRE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a
school, retail outlet and caf,
where you can find classes
on not just Vietnamese
cooking, but international
cuisine, held in a beautiful
setting. They also offer culinary tours.
EAT
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
Open for over a decade,
Au Lac Do Brazil is home to
the Hanoi's best Churrasco
menu with a wide variety of
meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through
to D-rump steak and smoked
hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in
Vietnam, Passadors bring
the meat skewers to your
table, and you, the customer
then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.
Best washed down with red
wine or a Caipirinha or five.
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3716 2959
10am to 10.30pm
Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history
that screams empathy make
this eatery one of the most
popular Indians in town. Selling an international version
of the mighty curry they
even sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the
northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza,
korma and the more Goan
vindaloo taking centre stage.
Also has a good range of
breads and tandoor-cooked
kebabs.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3771 6372
10am to midnight
MATCHBOX
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3734 3098
11am to 11pm
PAN-CHINESE
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
Elegant and luxurious, May
Man has long been regard-
MING PALACE
PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
A fine dining destination at
the Sofitel Plaza serving
Cantonese and pan-Chinese
cuisine in a sleek modern
setting with private dining
rooms. With more than 80
dim sum selections available
along with Chinese entrees,
Mings is an ideal eatery for
those hungry for higher end
Chinese fare.
THE BISTRO
FRENCH FLAIR
2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3726 4782
thebistro.com.vn
7.30am to 9pm
A modern eatery offering
western cuisine with shades
of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink
and food deals and a warm
indoor atmosphere you
know, just how the French
do it.
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
On the little street directly
below Kim Ma, with all sorts
of specialists including OB/
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT.
A Medium-sized practice
with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they
are used to treating expats.
Also a 24-hour emergency
service.
hanoi
Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
elsewhere
A DONG PHOTO CO
RECREATION
KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL
CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088
VUVUZELA
CAF 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342
7.30am to 9.30pm
FRENCH GRILL
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc
Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04)
3833 5588
facebook.com/frenchgrill
Every day 6pm to 11pm
With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in
wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy
restaurant offers guests
a service experience with
crafted food difficult to find
in the capital.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3796 2647
10am to midnight
CAFES
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
CONG CAPHE
HAM HANH
ARTSY CAFE
170 Doi Can, Dong Da
The physical representation of arts, film and music
collective, The Onion Cellar,
this cafe with multiple areas
is as left field as the people
who created it.
KY Y
SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn
WILD LOTUS
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204
potsnpans.vn
11.30am to late
Brought to you by a group of
former disadvantaged youth
from Hanois own KOTO, this
unique fine dining restau-
ALPHA LAPTOP
95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 4418
NGUYEN CAU
ICE SKATING
Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen
Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936
469799
royalcity.com.vn
HI-TECH USA
LASER TAG
77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai
Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106
x-factory-vn.com
DK COMPUTER
29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel:
3772 4772
PICO PLAZA
35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem
SWIMMING POOL
Landmark 72 Tower, Pham
Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)
3772 3801
landmark72.com
FRENCH HOSPITAL
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER
CARE AND IT SERVICES
No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983
011081
VIETSAD
34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 8771
SWIMMING POOLS
ARMY HOTEL
33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896
FOUR SEASONS
14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong
Da. Tel: 3537 6250
HANOI CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8115
www.hanoi-club.com
MELIA HOTEL
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343
OLYMPIA
4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049
SAO MAI
10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 3161
THAN NHAN
EAT
ASAHI SUSHI
ELECTRONICS
LA VERTICALE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3944 6317
verticale-hanoi.com
hanoi
MEDICAL BUFF
INFLUENZA VACCINATION FAQS
hanoi
business
CORPORATE SERVICES
ICHAM
ENDO
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2229
ccifv.org
A business group with over
240 members that supports the French business
community in Vietnam by
listening to their members
needs and expectations. Also
promotes Vietnam to French
companies and helps them in
developing their businesses
here.
EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
A confederate organisation
with strong ties to national
business associations in its
member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support
for the business interests of
European Union members in
Vietnam.
MARKET RESEARCH
xavier@indochinaresearch.
com
indochinaresearch.com
Active in Vietnam for more
than 20 years, Indochina
Research has the capacity to
run large research projects
in the country, for commercial and social purposes.
INSURANCE
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel
Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3936 5370
Emergency: 0903 732365
insuranceinvietnam.com
Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal
lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has
been operational in Vietnam
since 1994 and offers free
advice and comparative
quotes.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
BRITISH VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BVIS)
H3-H4, Hoa Lan, Vincom
Village, Long Bien, Tel: (04)
3946 0435
bvisvietnam.com
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
International brand, Concordia, has highly performing
schools in both Hong Kong
and Shanghai at the top tier
of the educational system.
All instructors and teachers
are native English speakers
and admission applications
are accepted throughout
the year.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF
VIETNAM
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai
Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183
www.isvietnam.org
The International School of
Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to
Grade 12 school serving the
international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts
students of any nationality
aged 3 and up. ISV offers
an international education
experience. Highly qualified
and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century
campus with the latest in
educational technology
plus excellent resources
for learning. Class sizes are
small.
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN
Unit 9 10, Shophouse
CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743
0360
3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934
7243
C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri
New Urban, Tu Liem District,
Tel: +84 4 3794 0209
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with
a foreign teacher leading the
class with the assistance of a
Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student
ratio. KinderWorld provides
pre school education for
children from 18 months to
below 6 years.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (SIS)
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic
Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block
C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel:
3795 1036
www,kinderworld.net/sis
SIS provides international
rmit.edu.vn
A leading international provider of skills training and
professional staff development, RMIT offers both short
and long-term courses,
customised courses, and
can provide for either on or
off-campus clients. Known
for its Business MBA which
is open to both Vietnamese
and overseas students.
CIMIGO
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
APOLLO
67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3943 2051
Apollo.edu.vn
Established in 1994, Apollo
offers high-quality and costeffective English language
classes including general
English, English for teens,
English for business communication and a pronunciation
clinic. One of the countrys
leading language centres.
BRITISH COUNCIL
20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3728 1922
britishcouncil.org
The cultural arm of the British governments presence
in Vietnam, the BC offers a
variety of English language
courses business writing, corporate training and
general English in a large
learning centre close to West
Lake.
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
MARKET RESEARCH
142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3518 6696
vietnam@cimigo.com
cimigolive.com
MARKET RESEARCH
xavier@indochinaresearch.
com
indochinaresearch.com
Active in Vietnam for more
than 20 years, Indochina
Research has the capacity to
run large research projects
in the country, for commercial and social purposes.
RMIT
Hanoi Resco Building, 521
Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3726 1460
SERVICED APARTMENTS
ATLANTA RESIDENCES
49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 0912 239085
atlanta.com.vn
Atlanta Residences fully
serviced apartments have
been created to provide a
space where you can feel
at home. Within walking
distance from Hanois Opera
House and Hoan Kiem Lake,
this building offers a panel of
51 spacious apartments for
you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer
the luxury of a hotel mixed
with the peaceful comfort
and privacy of your home,
under one roof of course.
SEDONA SUITES
No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 0888
sedonahotels.com.sg
hanoi
BOOK BUFF
This month Bookworms Truong does an informal census of some young readers favourite books
BUSINESS BUFFD // JOB SEARCH // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS //
THE EMPTY WOK // A WORLD OF GOOD // FOOD PROMOS // STUDENT EYE // NON-FAMOUS PLACES
PHOTO BY GLEN RILEY
HCMC
business
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES /
EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE /
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS /
RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING COWAN STRATEGIC BRAND PHIBIOUS
DESIGN
PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS
TMF GROUP
DENTSU VIETNAM
AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005
Dentsu.com.vn
GREY GROUP
404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)
3929 1450
grey.com/vietnam
MARKETEERS VIETNAM
PURPLE ASIA
9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050
purpleasia.com
nam to Australia.
RIVER ORCHID
10th Floor HDTC Building,
36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 2538
riverorchid.com
TBWA\VIETNAM
4th Floor, Saigon Finance
Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315
tbwa.com.vn
BUSINESS CONSULTING
BDG VIETNAM
11th Floor, Capital Place, 6
Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 7858
Bdg-vietnam.com
CONCETTI
33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3911 1481
Concetti.vn
GRANT THORNTON
ROUSE
6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58
Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 6770
iprights.com
INSPIRED IMAGE
XAGE CONSULTANCY
PRISM INFORMATION
TECHNOLOGY SERVICES
4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 7305 0905
prism.com.vn
BUSINESS GROUPS
AMCHAM
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
HCMC
CINEMAS
Showcasing the latest
Hollywood blockbusters
and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as
Megastar Media, Lotte
and Galaxy Cinema offer
the most up-to-date and
modern cinema-going
experiences in Saigon.
For those partial to more
esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and
Idecaf carry little known
Vietnamese and European
efforts.
CINEBOX
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10
Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
LOTTE CINEMA
13th Floor, Diamond Plaza,
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 38227897
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469
Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7
Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com
GALAXY CINEMA
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Tel: (08) 3920 6688
116 Nguyen Du, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 5235
246 Nguyen Hong Dao,
Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1
Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn
MEGASTAR CINEMA
Level 5, Crescent Mall,
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My
Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5412 2222
Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A
Truong Son, Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 6297 1981
Level 5, Parkson Paragon,
3 Nguyen Luong Bang,
Phu My Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5416 0088
megastar.vn
amchamvietnam.com
An independent association
of American and international businesses, the objective
of the American Chamber of
Commerce in Vietnam is to
promote trade and investment between the United
States and Vietnam.
CANCHAM
Room 305, New World Hotel,
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the
Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business
associates together and to
facilitate discussion forums
about business in Vietnam.
NORDCHAM
17th Floor, Petroland Tower,
12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08)
5416 0922
nordcham.com
ENDO
406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh,
Tel: (08) 6292 2045
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.
EVENT MANAGEMENT
CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS
Tel: 0906 761190
centerpiece-vn.com
info@centerpiece-vn.com
Centerpiece is an independent event planning company
run by expatriates that can
plan any event from private
parties, to corporate events
to weddings.
EVECOO
Tel: 0988 297990
evecoo.vn
THE CATERERS
46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel:
(08) 3812 6901
thecaterersvietnam.com.vn
Offers everything from canaps and cocktails, buffets
and set menus to barbeques
and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event
EXPAT SERVICES
CREATION
CHUMS HOUSE
HAPPY HOUSE
RESIDENT VIETNAM
EASY SAIGON
Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is
a useful real estate website
helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.
Enquiries via their website
are welcome.
KNIGHT FRANK
Suite A, level 7, VTP Office
Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6777
knightfrank.com.vn
Founded in 1896, Knight
Frank has grown to become
the worlds largest privately
owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial,
residential and residential
development services.
SNAP
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Caf in District 2, Snap offers a web
based real estate search
service with information on
rental properties all around
the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse
to wading into the internet
depths for their needs.
SOTHEBYS INTERNATIONAL
REALTY
Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 2000
sothebysrealty.com.vn
THE NEST
369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc
Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901
thenest-vietnam.com
Wellknown property
search and real estate
agency with a useful website
listing properties available
for rent and sale, orientated
towards expats. Website is in
English, French and Spanish.
NAMHOUSE CORPORATION
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental
properties, constructions
and interior decoration,
especially in District 2. Supports professional services
and aftersales.
INSURANCE
BAOVIET INSURANCE
49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661
baoviet.com.vn
IF CONSULTING
SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD
Fideco Tower, 18th Floor,
81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 9205
savills.com.vn
HCMC
BUSINESS BUFF
SO YOU WANT TO BE A BILLIONAIRE?
BY SHANE DILLON
10) Death
Google has hired biophysicist Cynthia Kenyon from the University of California to
join its Project Calico anti-aging team. Her
experiments have produced a roundworm
as old as the equivalent of 80 human years,
which looks and acts the equivalent of 40.
Google admits its a moonshot, but its
proved pretty decent at those in the past.
9) Unhackable Passwords
According to the recent mass scale hacking events, no-one has a secure password
anymore. Hackers have, through brute
force, so far been able to break through
practically every firewall ever invented.
Many companies are trying to turn
smartphones into car keys for online
applications, while others focus on a type
of cryptology known as obfuscation
which conceals how programmes operate.
7) Cost-Effective Desalination
Clean drinking water is still major concern
for a large part of the worlds population,
and in the future this will be even more of
an issue. Droughts are increasingly common in the developing world, as well as
in parts of North America and Australia.
The problem is cost; current methods of
desalination are far too expensive to scale.
If a solution is not found soon, we will
have to rely on conservationists convincing governments to act which means
we have already lost.
4) Clean Coal
A recent article in Bloomberg stated carbon
capture and storage may be more
important though much less publicised
than any renewable-energy technology
for decades to come, since it would
allow the world to keep burning its most
abundant fuel source. Whoever figures
2) Rural Internet
Most of the world agrees this has huge
potential for creating greater equality in
the world. The frontrunner for this is Project Loon from Google. They plan to send
renewable-powered balloons to the edge
of space to create an internet network in
remote parts of the world.
1) Wireless Power
This is already pretty close, with top dogs
at Apple saying pursuing greater efficiency in batteries is a trap. The key is to
find ways of squeezing more efficiency out
of the devices other parts and capturing power from whats around you. University of Washington engineers, among
others, are at work on harvesting existing
television and cellular transmissions and
turning them into a power source.
Shane works in Vietnam; he can be
contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn
HCMC
medical insurers provide
you with the best suitable
medical cover for individual,
family or company needs.
IGLOBALASSIST
Tel: 0934 874271
Iglobalassist.com
LIBERTY INSURANCE
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana
INTERIOR DESIGN
PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND
REMODELING
Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren
Hawk)
Thinking about upgrading a
bathroom? Perhaps a new
colour in the living room?
Maybe even a new wood
floor? Professional Painting
and Remodeling can help
with these and many other
projects. Provide international standards of quality
as well as professional and
timely service at reasonable
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
ILA VIETNAM
PRUDENTIAL
25th F, Saigon Trade Centre,
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 1660
prudential.com.vn
THE ETHICAL
INVESTMENT GROUP
27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0907
ethicalinvestmentgroup.
co.uk
VINACAPITAL
17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower,
115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3821 9930
vinacapital.com
A leading investment fund
management company with
extensive experience in the
emerging Vietnam market.
Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which
is a US$839 million investment fund.
LATELIER
33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492
latelier-anphu.com
VLS SAIGON
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging
from basic conversational
Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and
advanced levels, as well as
special courses including
Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival
crash course.
VUS
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
EMBERS ASIA
LEGAL SERVICES
ALLENS
Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29
Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
1717
vietnamlaws.com
INDOCHINE COUNSEL
Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam
Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 9640
indochinecounsel.com
G&H
6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919
ghmsglobal.com
A 100 percent foreigninvested company focusing on
management services and
consulting with inhouse
programmes to meet the
particular requirements of
its clients. Offers teambuilding and academicbased
business and management
programmes.
XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
HCMC
JOB SEARCH
BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS
BY NICOLA CONNOLLY
HCMC
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
NIELSEN
MARKET RESEARCH
CIMIGO
9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727
cimigo.vn
An independent marketing
and brand research specialist operating in the Asia
Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes,
knowledge management,
developing marketing plans
and business models and
assessing market opportunities.
MEKONG RESEARCH
TNS VIETNAM
58 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)
3930 6631
Tnsvietnam.vn
With over 11 years in the
marketplace, TNS Vietnam
offers all three major market
research services customisation, access panels
and media monitoring to
a range of local and international clients.
PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES
DRAGON IMAGES
Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660
dragonimages.asia
Dragon Images production
studio is a professional team
of photographers, stylists.
shooting administrators,
casting managers and retouchers. They make photos
on various topics, from business to sport.
PUBLIC RELATIONS
MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS
Level 5, 273-273B Ben
Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 5517
matterhorncommunications.com
Providing public relations
and communications support to international and
local firms operating in
Vietnam. Specialising in
corporate communications,
media relations, corporate
social responsibility and media and issues management
and training.
RECRUITMENT & HR
ADECCO VIETNAM
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26
VIETNAMWORKS.COM
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
RELOCATION AGENTS
ALLIED PICKFORDS
12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices
in over 45 countries, Allied
Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also
CROWN RELOCATIONS
2nd Floor Coteccons Office
Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien
Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3840 4237
crownrelo.com
HCMC
BODY
AND
REAL HELP
TEMPLE
BY PHIL KELLY
End results
Any trainer that can answer these
questions to your satisfaction should
be able to help you get results. Personal
training is not about beasting you in
a workout, but assessing your needs
and developing a plan to achieve your
goals. Your trainer should be able to
clearly map-out your journey with them
and explain the expected progression
involved.
Employing a trainer can exponentially
improve your workout effectiveness
and efficiency, as they provide educated
structures and guidelines. However, if
you are not seeing results within four
weeks, you need to ask some questions.
Be a conscious customer and youll get
what youre paying for.
Phil is founder and master trainer at Body
Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763
or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or
through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)
HCMC
KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS
DANCENTER
53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,
funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
this modern dance studio.
PIANO CLASSES
Tel: 01225 636682
morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
SAIGON MOVEMENT
Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com
TAE KWON DO
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
VINSPACE
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
RESIDENT VIETNAM
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers
local and international
moving, pet transportation, relocation services
including home search, orientation, cultural training,
immigration services and
records management. Email
Vietnam@santaferelo.com
for info.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT
656 Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587
camlyapartment@hcm.
vnn.vn
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank
hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort
lifestyle with the amenities
of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from
downtown by high-speed
boat shuttle.
SEDONA SUITES
SAIGON EXPRESS
AGENCY LIMITED
SHERWOOD RESIDENCE
TATTOO ARTISTS
With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over
the past few years there
has been an increase in
the number of tattoo studios around the city.
Customers have the
choice of picking their
own tattoo out of the
many look books on offer
in the studios or bringing
in their own design. Most
of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.
Pricing depends on size
and style.
CITYVIEW
SAIGON INK
SAIGON TATTOO
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON RESIDENCES
Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon youll
find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The
residences offer panoramic
views of the downtown area.
TATTOO SAIGON
TATTOO TAM BI
NORFOLK MANSION
1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxu-
DELIVERY
BEN STYLE
Tel: 0906 912730
www.vietnammm.com/
restaurants-ben-style
Healthy, calorie-counted
sandwich and deli fare
CHEZ GUIDO
Tel: (08) 3898 3747
www.chezguido.com
Vietnamese, international
fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches
DOMINOS PIZZA
Tel: (08) 3939 3030
www.dominos.vn
Pizzas, wings, desserts
EAT.VN
www.eat.vn
Delivery service website
for local restaurants
EL GATO NEGRO
Tel: (08) 6660 1577
Californian-style burritos
HUNGRYPANDA.VN
www.hungrypanda.vn
Delivery service website
for local restaurants
KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
www.kfcvietnam.com.vn
Fried chicken, chicken
burgers, sides
LOTTERIA
SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES
8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C
Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
Somerset Chancellor Court,
Somerset Ho Chi Minh City
and Somerset Vista Ho Chi
Minh City serviced residences combine the space
and privacy of an apartment with the services of a
top-rated hotel. They come
with separate living and
dining areas, as well as a
fully equipped kitchen where
guests can prepare a meal
for themselves, their family
and friends.
SCOOZI
Tel: (08) 3823 5795
www.scoozipizza.com
Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts
TACO BICH
www.tacobich.com
Homemade Mexican fare
WILLY WOOS
Tel: (08) 3941 5433
www.blackcatsaigon.com
US-style chicken and
waffles
VIETNAMMM
THE LANDMARK
5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2098
thelandmarkvietnam.com
65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a
comprehensive health club
for tenants and members,
a squash court and a 16th
floor swimming pool.
www.vietnammm.com
Delivery service website
for local restaurants
HCMC
downtown
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
BEER REPUBLIC
BLANCHYS TASH
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
0909 028293
Blanchystash.com
BOOTLEG DJ CAF
BOUDOIR LOUNGE
BROMA
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP
41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 6838
Bromas medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the
citys weirdest and coolest
events/random moments.
A sophisticated cocktail
menu and quite possibly the
best lamb burger in town.
Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.
CARMEN
CUNHOUSE
LOUNGE BAR
Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
GAME ON
SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel:
(08) 6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com
EXPAT BAR
54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2644
Expats keep returning to
this smoky dive bar, largely
due to its amicable service,
brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart
games. A mainstay in the
local darts league.
LA HABANA
LA FENETRE SOLEIL
Huu
C
Ng
uy
en
g
ng
Le
Lo
i
Th
an
g8
Ng
.H
ue
Ham Nghi
District 2
t
Kie
n
Va
District 4
LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON
an
Th
i
Le
ng
Vo
FUSE
cT
ha
n
Da
o
District
10
Ma
Du
ie
n
Ca
ch
Tr
u
Du
h
an
Ng
uy
en
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 3122
lastcallsaigon.com
If youre in need of dense,
soulful atmosphere and
maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from
wherever, Last Call is your
stop and fast becoming
that of the similarly inclined.
Great happy hour deals for
early evening starters.
Hu
ng
DRUNKEN DUCK
Kh
ai
Ph
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
LAST CALL
Ba
Tr
an
APOCALYPSE NOW
Ha
i
Bi
e
District 3
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
International dcor blends
seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces
with a wide-ranging drink
menu and hip dance tunes to
create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.
DJ sets.
To
n
Ho
an
g
in
h
en
Ti
Binh Thanh
in
h
LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT
LUSH
PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM
2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 2496
lush.vn
OBRIENS
PACHARAN
3825 6024
pacharansaigon.com
Legs of Iberian ham hang
from the ceiling in the
downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything
Spanish. Regular first-floor
live music and excellent eats
makes it a mainstay for the
wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.
PHATTYS
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed
Caf Latin, Phattys has
become the go-to, Aussie
beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international
cricket to Aussie rules and
serving an array of pub grub
favourites.
SAIGON SAIGON
STORM P
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4738
Stormp.vn
HIP RESTOBAR
31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel:
0903 369798
facebook.com/thecubesaigon
A sleek, industrial looking
restobar with edgy dcor
and just a hint of Spanish
style. Tapas, sangria, Iberi-
THE ORIENT
VINO
VASCOS
VELVET
DANCE/HIP HOP
26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2262
velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.
com
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and lounge-
VINYL BAR
WINE BAR 38
HCMC
selection of the good stuff
sold by the glass.
WINE EMBASSY
BACH DANG
BASKIN ROBBINS
CASBAH
XU
ZANZBAR
EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2772
Auparcsaigon.com
Set in a shophouse-style
building, Au Parc offers a
chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced Eu-
MIDDLE EASTERN
59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 5130
This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both
cozy indoor and rooftop
seating to admire views of
the city. With such a prime
downtown location, expect
prices to match.
CENTRO
INTERNATIONAL
Metropolitan Building, 235
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508
7285
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
FRENCH
5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 9117
FANNY
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL
80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3704
saigongivral.com
GOODY
GUANABANA SMOOTHIES
HAGEN-DAZS
LUSINE
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B
Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
0703
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor
compliments the spacious,
whitewashed contemporary
interior of LUsine. A simple,
creative menu combines
with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and
art gallery out back. Second
location on Le Loi.
M2C CAFE
44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2495
facebook.com/m2ccafe
At M2C (Modern Meets
Culture), everything gets a
touch of modernity. From
the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows
immense local culture, done
with a modern flare. Be seen
here at one of the latest popular joint in town.
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4990
Second-storey coffeehouse
offers a quiet atmosphere
to chill out or read from
their book-nook collection.
Comfortable couch seating,
open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
TRUNG NGUYEN
INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE
80 Dong Khoi, Q1
trungnguyen.com.vn
INTERNATIONAL
5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)
3911 5599
This two-storey building with
a mezzanine level boasts an
industrial style complex with
block walls, steel structures
and huge glass windows.
The mid-range menu offers
over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.
DEBENHAMS
GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
8755
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
IPA-NIMA
LUSINE
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and
sophisticated clothing and
casual high-quality cottons
are stocked at this boutique/
caf. Lifestyle accessories
include shoes, homewares,
knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.
MANDARINA
TAILOR-MADE SHOES
171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 5267
FACTORY OUTLET
43 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 8019
9am to 9pm
This designer fashion outlet
sells a variety of clothing and
shoes produced in Vietnam.
All designs are brand new,
delivered from the factory
weekly and sold at factory
outlet prices.
HCMC
COFFEE CUP
TOILET KINGDOM
establishment.
We want to bring Ho Chi Minh City
young people a different way to have
coffee, explained manager Quang,
adding that a similar caf has already
been set up in Hanoi.
Showing me around the place, I
pointed at one of the little steaming
poops on one of the walls. As I cracked
up at the sight of it, Quang exclaimed,
Its sh-t! with unbridled glee.
A Bit of a Bummer
Right down to smoothies named
King Toilet (strawberry, raspberry,
blueberry and vanilla VND69,000)
and a parfait named Pink Love Toilet
(vanilla, strawberry and fresh berries
VND68,000), the drinks are named just
as whimsically as the place is decorated.
Its also pretty family friendly; the only
booze on hand seemed to be Baileys
for your coffee. The Toilet Coffee (iced
coffee with vanilla and strawberry
VND58,000) was only remarkable for
its toilet-like cup, which is more kitschy
than gross once youve gotten your head
around the place. If anything, the drink
itself was a bit of a bummer, so to speak,
HCMC
SONG
T&V TAILOR
TAILORS
39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556
triciaandverona.com
VESPA SHOP
COOKING CLASSES
SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC
74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine
with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour
lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben
Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients
for the class.
SAPA
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 6115
www.nhaxinh.com
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn
EAT
BARBECUE GARDEN
VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE
135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
3340; 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1
barbecuegarden.com
BASILICO
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du
and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099
intercontinental.com/saigon
BEIRUT
LEBANESE
The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2188
BIBI@ALIBI
5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257
The legendary chef Bibis newest creation, a
convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean
cuisine using fresh products bought early
morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the
famous tarte tatin.
3T QUAN NUONG
VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08)
3821 1631
AL FRESCOS
INTERNATIONAL
27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of one of Vietnams
most successful restaurant chains, Al
Frescos offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match.
Excellent delivery service.
BLACK CAT
AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055
blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails,
mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular twostorey eatery close to the river.
BLANCHY STREET
ASHOKA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
4201
bellavitafurniture.com
BOCONCEPT
DANISH FURNITURE
68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6604; The
Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 7357
boconcept.vn
DIABOLO
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAF
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European caf fare
think deli-style sandwiches, salads and
mezzes, plus coffees and juices served at
a popular park-side Le Duan location with
classic cream and green-tiled dcor.
EM EM
SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm
MEKONG CREATIONS
NGUYEN FRERES
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459
8am to 8pm
EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS
83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9079; 42 Le
Loi, Q1. (08) 3824 7456
ninhkhuong.vn
BAHDJA
87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763
1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com
Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel,
Bahdja is Saigons first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber
North African and Mediterranean cuisine
cooked and served in a traditional Algerian
style. Best experienced in a group, this small
but pleasant restaurants soothing ambience
is matched by the owners genuine hospitality
and complimented by an array of tasty tajines
and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to
try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.
HCMC
The work of former Nobu
chef Martin Brito, the
Japanese-South American
fusion cuisine at Blanchy
Street is among the tastiest
and most unusual in the city.
All complemented by fresh,
contemporary decor and a
leafy terrace out front.
BOMBAY INDIAN
INDIAN MALAY
57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel:
0903 863114
BROTZEIT
GERMAN / RESTOBAR
Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206
brotzeit.co/kumholink
BUN CHA
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1
CIAO BELLA
NEW YORK-ITALIAN
11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range
of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas.
Friendly staff and rustic
bare brick walls adorned
with Hollywood film legends
make for a relaxed and attractive setting.
CORSO
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant,
the enticing range of US and
Australian steaks plus great
grill and comfort food menu
in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite.
Decent-sized steaks start at
VND390,000.
DRAGON NOODLE
JAPANESE NOODLES
29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0008
ELBOW ROOM
AMERICAN
52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style
diner ranges from meatball
baguettes to chilli burgers,
pizzas, blackened chicken
salads and a selection of
more expensive international mains.
EL GAUCHO
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1879
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.
GANESH
GOLDEN ELEPHANT
CLASSIC THAI
34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 8554
saigonssk@vnn.vn
GOURMETS DELIGHT
GRILLBAR
AIRCON STREETFOOD
122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 7901
facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe
Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to
it a range of grilled dishes,
typical of the barbecue fare
youd find on the street, and
then add in three types of
rice and a range of organic
products. Close to Ben
Thanh Market, this is com
binh dan
HOA TUC
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
1676
Highly rated restaurant
with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include
pink pomelo squid and crab
salad, mustard leaf prawn
rolls, fishcake wraps and
barbecue chicken in ginger,
onions and a lime leaf marinade.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 1101
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub
such as burgers, salads
and prime rib steaks with a
sports bar atmosphere, this
Australian chain also offers
regular promotions and a
4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.
INAHO
SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 0326
INTERNATIONAL FUSION
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant,
the international offerings
here are consistently good
and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor
terrace area, and a good
kids menu. Check out their
pepper steaks.
LE BANH MI
12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 1036
LOLIVIER
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
1555
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic
atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls
and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant
has quarterly Michelin star
promotions and an award
winning pastry team.
CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel,
815 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033
marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet
Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with
striking dcor and the bonus of views over the Saigon
River. Dishes range from
VND80,000 to VND900,000.
KOH THAI
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
2229 8882
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in
white specialises in a mix
of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine.
Has a small but well thought
out menu, backed up with an
extensive wine list.
LA HOSTARIA
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 1080
lahostaria.com
This downtown hideaway
with rusticstyle decorative
trawls features fresh, light
regional cuisine from across
Italy. Try the carpaccio misto
di pesce and agnello dantico.
Also specializes in excellent
wood-fired pizzas.
LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON
LA BETTOLA
KABIN
LA CUISINE
LITTLE ITALY
84 Ho Tung Mau Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 4402
labettolasaigon.com
Located in the heart of Saigon, La Bettola is the only
restaurant in town managed
by two Italian chefs and an
Italian waiter. A wood-fired
pizza oven, a downstairs bar
and a stylish, elegant setting
on the second floor are part
of the mix. As is the homemade mozzarella, ricotta
cheese, ravioli magro, tortelli
mushrooms, pappardelle
and mascarpone cheese for
the tiramisu, which is made
fresh every day. Has a great
selection of Italian wine.
LE JARDIN
CLASSIC FRENCH
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8465
Unpretentious but tasty
French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French
cultural centre. The robust,
bistro-style cuisine is very
well-priced, and excellent,
LUCCA
TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN
88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3691
A contemporary trattoria in the heart of
Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine
with New York flair in a beautifully designed
space with high ceilings. The menu features
both traditional antipasti and substantial
main courses.
LUONG SON
PAN-VIETNAMESE
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330
OPERA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Unpretentious, casual but elegant restaurant
with a triedandtested Italian menu backed
up by a compact wine list from regions like
Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and impressive open kitchens.
PACHARAN
SPANISH / EUROPEAN
97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924
Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs
bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in
warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharans
food menu is traditionally Spanish.
PASHA
MAY RESTAURANT
19 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686
may.restaurant19@gmail.com
7am to late
Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic
Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating,
an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the
Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this
multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out
their set lunches and happy hour.
MARKET 39
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
MOGAMBO
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311
mogambo@saigonnet.vn
NAM GIAO
HUE CUISINE
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38
250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 9996
namgiao.com
NINETEEN
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
OMG!
OSAKA RAMEN
JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My
Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7
TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL
25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677
pasha.com.vn
Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant
close to the mosque with Islamic-style white
dome dcor and comfortable, cushioned
seating.Authentically Turkish cuisine with a
sprinkling of western fare thrown in.
PENDOLASCO
PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian
restaurant serves up quality homemade
pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and
grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.
PIZZA 4PS
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet
delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and
calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more
traditional varieties.
PROPAGANDA
QUAN BUI 2
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515
With its leafy roof garden and chic interior,
Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open
kitchen.
REFINERY
REFLECTIONS
RIVERSIDE CAF
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
Renaissance Riverside, 815 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
Offers versatile allday dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to
watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.
SAIGON CAF
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SEOUL HOUSE
KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of
dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong,
Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms
and a main dining area seating over 300.
Good for events.
SKEWERS
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini
carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range
of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop
skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.
TANDOOR
TEMPLE CLUB
PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old
Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple
Club is one of the citys best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.
INTERNATIONAL
43 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0094
HCMC
TOP EATS
KEP N KEM
The Basics
Two flavours of homemade ice-cream are
churned out daily from a rotating selection
of 30, with recent highlights including
white chocolate, coffee and a French-style
guava sorbet. The day of our visit its
HCMC
TOKYO BBQ
JAPANESE BARBECUE
15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2527
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this
a great drinking and dining
venue
WARDA
MIDDLE-EASTERN
71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3822
info@wardavn.com
The deep colours, Arabic dcor and cushioned outdoor
terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.
The food is good, too, taking
in tabouleh, houmous, falafel
and mutabbal, shwarmas
and more. Sells authentic
shisha.
YAMANEKO
JAPANESE / OKINAWA
13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8433
yamanekovn.com
Funky Yamaneko down an
alley off Le Thanh Ton offers delicious, unpretentious
Okinawan fare alongside
mainland staples. Does a
great set lunch deal.
YU CHU
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles,
fresh dim sum and hot wok
dishes within an impeccably
designed open kitchen, as
diners look on. Stylish and
spectacular.
FITNESS CENTRE
Queen Ann Building, 2830
32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
5999
Cfyc.com.vn
NUTRIFORT
GENERAL FITNESS
2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8560
nutrifort.com
Offers fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. There is also a
spa and a restaurant serving
caloriecalibrated meals.
SHERATON FITNESS
GALLERIES
BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART
GALLERY
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 3695
bluespacearts.com
DOGMA
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese
propaganda art and a collection put together over the
last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the
majority of the work comes
from the war period when
provocative poster art was
used to inspire and motivate.
Sells prints of the originals
and related products.
BACCHUS CORNER
WINE SHOP
158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 3306
bacchuscorner.com
A range of spirits, whiskies
and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over
the world with an especially
good selection from France,
Chile and South Africa. Also
has an excellent range of
single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an onsite
wine tasting machine, the
Enomatic, the first of its kind
in Vietnam.
DALOC
WINE SHOP
74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 5404 3575
daloc.vn
BUTCHERS
73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 4376
kimhai.vn
PHUONG HA
GROCERS
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 1318
RED APRON
WINE SHOP
22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 0021
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE SHOP
15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8826
One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition
to their excellent range of
wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.
HCMC
The Ingredients
4 pieces of lemongrass
3cm of galangal / Chinese ginger
1 cup coconut milk, canned or fresh
3 to 4 fresh green chillies
2 fresh red chilies
100g of fresh coriander, with stems
Handful of fresh basil/kaffir lime leaves
1 medium-size onion
3 to 4 cloves of garlic
tsp cumin powder
1 tbsp cooking oil
cup water
cup lime juice
Salt to taste
tsp sugar
Seasonal Vegetables medium diced (i.e.
1 red bell pepper, cup broccoli, cup
eggplant, cup carrots, cup long beans
and/or cup mushrooms)
Optional: add cup tofu to increase
protein
Method
First, chop the lemongrass, onion, garlic,
galangal, coriander and green chillies
then add cumin, salt and sugar and
blend it in a mixer to a fine paste. Add
HCMC
VEGGYS
VINIFERA
WINE SHOP
7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0860
viniferavn.com
WINE SHOP
74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6299 1315
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines.
Also offers regular popular
wine courses. The outdoor
terrace area is the perfect
spot to sample a new vintage.
HAIRDRESSERS
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.
FV SAIGON CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6290 6167
fvhospital.com
Stateoftheart medical
centre located in District
1. Experienced American,
French, and Vietnamese
doctors provide the full
spectrum health care. Plus
sports medicine, cosmetic
treatments, skin care and
surgical consultations.
VENUS
41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3829 6298
JASMINE
GLOW SPA
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8368
glowsaigon.com
Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages
lasting from 30 minutes, to
two-hour hot stone therapy,
includes one suite with a
Jacuzzi bath; offers hand
and foot care and a hair
styling area.
INDOCHINE SPA
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a
peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic
scents and lulling melodies.
Customers are pampered
by qualified therapists using
natural French products in
THANH SANCTUARY
Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
0885
THE SPA
Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu
Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3514 9007
Saigon Centre, 3M Floor,
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
1800
thespavietnam.com
XUAN SPA
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
1234
hyattpure.com
HCMC
A WORLD
OF
GOOD
BY DANA MCNAIRN
GOs are
in the
news
with
jet-setting
executives being
grounded and
dire warnings
that reputations
are in jeopardy
because charities
cant control
their boardroom
and C-suite
extravagances.
Excesses? Tell
me that paying
a single person
US$534 million
(VND111.2
trillion) a year is
not excess. More
like obscene.
That ignoble
distinction goes
to Leon Black,
chair of private
equity group
Apollo.
The for-profit
sectors average
CEO pay is
US$13.9 million (VND292 billion) but
hey, Larry Page at Google only makes
a measly US$1 million. Last year the
median salary for a charity CEO was
US$126,000 (VND2.65 billion). Clearly
somethings awry here.
A country director I know here who
works for a highly-reputable education
and livelihoods INGO manages a budget
of US$100 million (VND21 trillion) and
over 100 staff. Those arent bake sale
figures. What do you think hes paid?
What do you think he ought to be paid?
What I dont understand is those who
insist that if you work in the nonprofit or
charity or development sector you have
to dress in rags and even better, selfflagellate regularly.
A Double Standard
HCMC
641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BLUE DRAGON
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2084
8am to 10.30pm
BAKERY
117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 1992
crumbs.com.vn
Dubbed the local bakery,
Crumbs serves up a variety
of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and
garlicbased buns and loafs,
meatfilled pastries, sweet
pastries, healthconscious
breads and more. There is
also a breakfast menu and
variety of sandwiches available.
KOREAN BAKERY
59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 4350
BIA HOI
33 Bui Vien, Q1
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT
FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8452
With a free book exchange,
and tasty Sunday night
roasts, the tiny Bread &
Butter is a perfect place for
homesick expats and beer
enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served
here exclusively in Ho Chi
Minh City).
GO2
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 9575
GODMOTHER BAR
RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE /
WESTERN
129 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3832 4589
godmothersaigon.com
Only a couple blocks from
the bru-haha of Bui Vien,
Godmothers is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent
mojitos, good food, and the
weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJs.
LONG PHI
FRENCH / RESTOBAR
207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 2704
French-run but universally
appealing, Long Phi has been
serving the backpacker area
with excellent cuisine and
occasional live music since
1990. Excellent late-night
bistro cuisine.
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3837 7679
Warm colors, artsy dcor
and a friendly ambiance
combine to create a perfect
THI CAF
T&R TAVERN
DIVE BAR
57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 9839
UNIVERSAL BAR
SAIGON VIBRATIONS
REGGAE BAR
143 Nguyen Trai, Q1
facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae
inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the
name of that most special
of sounds the one from
Jamaica.
SEVENTEEN SALOON
SPOTTED COW
INTERNATIONAL / SPORT
111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 7670
Alfrescosgroup.com
Spotted Cow delivers the
fun-loving atmosphere that
its playfully decorated black
and white spotted interior
promises, as well as decent
international comfort food,
a range of happy hours, live
sports, and darts.
THE OBSERVATORY
LE PUB
GINKGO
CAFES
BOBBY BREWERS
INTERNATIONAL
45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 4090
bobbybrewers.com
Choose from a full range
of caf beverages and a
fast-food style menu as you
watch the latest Hollywood
hits in their upstairs lounge.
Check website for movie locations and schedule.
INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
SKATEWEAR / STREET
174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
MARATHON
BUDGET CLOTHING
147 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019
PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
papaya-tshirt.com
ORANGE
BUDGET CLOTHING
152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3820 2620
9am to 10pm
U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:
0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com
CORIANDER
THAI / VIETNAMESE
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837
1311
TIN NGHIA
VEGAN
9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 2538
One of the citys oldest eateries (established in 1925)
does some of the cheapest
and tastiest vegan cuisine in
town, all cooked up without
onions, garlic or MSG.
LA CANTINA
TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE
175/3 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
MARGHERITA
ITALIAN / TEX-MEX
175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
SISTERS CAFE
VIETNAMESE/WESTERN
185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: 0903 643446
Light wood paneling, beige
walls and locally themed
artwork help to create a
fresh and airy ambience in
this caf-cum-restaurant
that is owned by the woman
behind Chis Caf. Also does
visa extensions and motorbike rental.
ZEUS
GREEK / KEBAB
164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 3248
ZOOM CAF
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures.
com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a caf
and restaurant by day and
a sidewalk drinking joint
by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.
EAT
BABAS KITCHEN
BURRITO REVOLUTION
CHIS CAF
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable caf is a rarity
in the backpacker area for
its genuinely good musical
playlist. Excellent, build-
GALLERIES
GALERIE QUYNH
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8019
galeriequynh.com
In addition to working with
artists based in Vietnam,
Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from
around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports
education through talks, lectures and publications.
HCMC
district 1
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
HOA VIEN
CZECH BREWHOUSE
28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 8605
hoavien.vn
MZ CLUB
SAIGON VIBRATIONS
REGGAE BAR
143 Nguyen Trai, Q1
facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
Saigons first reggae bar
located close to The Observatory on the other side of
Pham Ngu Lao. Open late,
holds a number of nights
like Tropical Wednesday,
Thursday-before-midnightshots-only ladies night and
Underground Saturdays, all
in an attempt to pump things
up for the party seekers in
town.
BOOKS
LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM
PHONG
82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 7858
Nam Phong Bookstore was
founded at the of end 2002 in
Ho Chi Minh City as the first
and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.
Only books written in French
are for sale, covering for all
ages and tastes. A catalogue
is available at namphongsaigon.com
CAFES
(A) CAFE
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da
Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701
Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews
INTERNATIONAL
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3833 3648
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
DECIBEL
INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense,
this two-floor, relaxed caf
offers beautiful decor and
unique original events like
live music, film screenings,
and art exhibits. Great prices
and food with daily specials.
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH
97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3844 3295
saigongivral.com
I.D. CAF
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben
District
10
Le
Huu
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Le
Lo
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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
2718
The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of
this popular, contemporary
caf. Enjoy live music on
weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese
or espresso-based coffee.
an
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Bi
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Ca
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Kh
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Ph
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Ham Nghi
District 2
Da
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BANKSY CAFE
District 3
Hu
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CHILL SKYBAR
Ha
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Ba
t
Kie
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Va
Tr
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To
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Ho
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Ti
Binh Thanh
in
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District 4
Vo
LE PETIT CAF
FRENCH
112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6291 2067
MOCKINGBIRD CAFE
4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
Sitting atop of a number of
cafe establishments in an old
apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a
romantic time over mojitos,
or good ol caffeine-infused
relaxation.
THINGS CAFE
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
Feel the calm and serenity
of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old
Apartment. The quaint and
relaxing atmosphere sets for
some alone time, or quality
conversations held over a
drink or two.
GAYA CLOTHING
HAND-MADE / DESIGNER
Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van
Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925
1495
Gayavietnam.com
Clothing is designed and
tailor-made by renowned
designer Romyda Keth, and
concentrates mainly on
womens wear. Gaya sells
colourful, sexy evening
dresses, embroidered floral
skirts and cute chiffon tops.
COOKING CLASSES
OVERLAND CLUB
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm
The Overland Club organises
pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
monthly special activities,
such as the Soba Festival,
pottery painting classes, the
art of decorating paper and
multinational cuisine days.
CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 1495
gayavietnam.com
Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II
buildings in the city, Gaya has
a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps
and tableware, with all products both constructed and
designed locally. You can
find a wide range of mirrors
and lacquerware with bowls,
vases and contemporary
Asian-style boxes as well as
a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all
colours and designs. Prices
here match the quality of the
products.
EAT
27 GRILL
GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
Besides the spectacular
views, the cuisine at 27 Grill
is a real draw, with steaks
and other international
grill-style fare in a refined
yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and
an extensive wine list make
up the mix.
CAF IF
VIETNAMESE FRENCH
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3846 9853
MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a
French twist, cooked fresh
to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and
beef stew, stir fries, hot pots
and curries.
COBALT
ROOFTOP RESTOBAR
Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon
Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686
pullman-saigon-centre.com
A tapas-style contemporary
international menu in an
equally modern chic space,
Cobalt also has panoramic
views over the city thanks to
its 30th-floor location. Has a
focus on wine matching and
tasting. A hotel restaurant
with a difference.
DYNASTY
CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
LION CITY
SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery,
plating up the likes of nasi
lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well
as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish
head curry.
MAY RESTAURANT
INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE
3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08)
3910 1277
May-cloud.com
Meaning Cloud, May utilises homemade recipes
and broths developed by the
restaurateurs father, such
as pan-fried duck breast
served with nuoc mam and
ginger, and 1940s style
spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in
an Indochine atmosphere.
MONSOON
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)
6290 8899
Traditional pan-Southeast
Asian favourites served in
a visually arresting setting
within a French colonial-era
villa, just minutes from the
backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy
HCMC
juices and smoothies.
AMERICAN / FRENCH
2527 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373
steakhouse.com.vn
NYSW is well known for
serving up formidable prime
signature cuts of New York
strip steak, rib eye, double
strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.
QUAN UT UT
PARKVIEW
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Flagship restaurant of The
New World Hotel, serving
lavish buffets all day. Many
cooking stations ranging
from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads,
cold cuts, cheese plates and
desserts.
QUAN BUI
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3602 2241
Make sure to try the sauted
shrimps with cashew nuts
and crispy fried tofu with
lime wedge, at this popular,
high-quality eatery where all
food is served in traditional
crockery.
QUAN UT UT
US-STYLE BARBECUE
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 4500
facebook.com/quanutut
Its a no-brainer, right?
American-style barbecue in
a contemporary Vietnamese,
quan nhau-style setting. Of
course it is, which is why
Quan Ut Ut is constantly
packed with grill-obsessed
diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue
and Platinum pale ale served
on tap.
GALLERIES
SAN ART
3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel:
(08) 3840 0183
San-art.org
San Art is an independent,
artist-run exhibition space
that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an
exchange programme that
invites international artists/
curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
CITYSMART
Horizon Tower, 214 Tran
Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3526 8833
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills
and character building for
comprehensive development.
& DENTAL
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 4545
Well-regarded clinic offering
general examinations and
specialising in pediatrics,
digestive diseases, cardiology, womens health and
internal medicine. Offers a
membership programme
and cooperates with most
insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.
WE LINK
COUNSELLING
64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 2900
contact@welink.vn
Psychological counselling services for individual,
group and family. Diverse
counsellors and therapists,
using Cognitive Behaviour
Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For
adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French
and Spanish spoken.
HAIR BAR
CONTEMPORARY SALON
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(FREEPHONE) 1800 1108
hairbar.vn
A unique themed hair salon
where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment
only, giving female clients the
opportunity to get their hair
done on the run. Of course,
they have to look fabulous,
too. Fortunately this is one of
Hair Bars specialities. Check
the salon out on Facebook:
facebook.com/hairbarvn.
SPA TROPIC
HCMC
two pieces of each particular
item. Also has a great range
of imported fabrics up on the
2nd floor and an in-house
sewing room for cushions,
sofas and curtains. Offers
custom-made furniture and
delivery within four weeks.
Home dcor orders are also
available.
district 2
CHI LAI
DISTRICT 2
Ni
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Xa
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Ngu
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BAKERY
244 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 6281 8392
The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien,
Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries
such as croissants, pain au
chocolat, pain raisins, pizza
dough, pates feuillete and
much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc,
Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and
Ho Chi Minh City.
BAKERY / CAFE
5, Street 11, Thao Dien, Q2
Tel: (08) 3519 4118
harvestbaking.net
VOELKER
BAKERY
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
Frenchrun bakery selling
probably the tastiest range
of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passionfruit tart is
a must try.
Xa
DISTRICT 2
temporary bar area and live
sports. Lots of live sports.
The Thai cuisine is cooked
up by no-holds-barred Thai
chefs.
BUDDHA BAR
RESTOBAR
7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
Just across the lane from
McSorleys, this pub with an
eccentric European tilt and
some nice, authentic cuisine
draws an older crowd with
darts, pool and weekly poker
tourneys.
MCSORLEYS
IRISH BAR
4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126
9026006
Standing in the former home
of Gaudi, McSorelys is full of
surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool,
reggae parties, comedy
nights, and sporting events
projected onto the patio wall.
SAIGON OUTCAST
SPORTS BAR
Ground Floor, The Vista,
628C Hanoi Highway, Q2
dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub
12 quality screens and eight
draught beers, music spun
by DJs, excellent burgers,
quiz nights and barbecues.
All in an attractive, contemporary environment.
CAFES
AGNES CAFE
Th
Tr
BAKEUP ATELIER
Ni
nh
Song H
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n Hon
Hu Cnh
BAKERIES
Nguy
n
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No
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Song H
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Mai Ch
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Binh Thanh
Th
and intimate.
CAF EVITA
VESPA SHOP
HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese
furniture brand is a good
choice for most families
with its respected high-quality designs and competitive
prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and
Dien Bien Phu, the spacious
showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such
as table sets, shelves and
kitchen cabinets. There is a
large selection of carpets as
well as numerous choices of
curtains and accessories.
FEELING TROPIC
HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643
EAT
AGNES CAF
SHOPPING MALLS
DIAMOND PLAZA
34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08)
3825 7750
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
PARKSON PLAZA
35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3827 7636
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
SAIGON CENTRE
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)
3829 4888
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
SAIGON SQUARE
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,
Q1
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics
SAIGON TAX
Trading Centre
135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3821 3849
9am to 9.30pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Souvenirs,
Restaurant
VINCOM CENTER
70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3936 9999
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
ZEN PLAZA
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel:
(08) 3925 0339
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine
cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.
BAAN THAI
PAN-THAI
55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this
An Phu eatery. The menu
has a whole page dedicated
to tom yum soup as well
BOAT HOUSE
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790
Live music, mini-festivals and
functions are regular events
at this spacious restobar in
An Phu on the banks of the
HCMC
SPORTS
Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.
LA CLOSERIE DELISA
CRICKET
ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET
CLUB OF SAIGON)
Richard Carrington, Tel:
0909 967 353
richard.carrington@market-edge.asia
eccsaigon.com
SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM
SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)
Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
FOOTBALL
AND
RUGBY
SAIGON RAIDERS
Saigonraiders.com
SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
SPORTS GENERAL
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
SQUASH
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext 176
thelandmarkvietnam.com
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
XROCK CLIMBING
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON
LA PLANCHA
25 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6281 8521
LU BU
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08)
6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
Drawing inspiration from
the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean
and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run
restaurant bathed in white
focuses on wholesome,
fresh ingredients, with
breads, cheeses, pickles,
pastas and preserves made
on site daily from scratch. A
well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.
Has petanque on the terrace.
TAMAGO
CHIARA SQUINZI
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag
in Thao Dien, Tamago has
indoor and out door seating,
a terrace and private rooms.
They have a ladies night on
Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on
Saturday evenings. Have a
second restaurant in Mui Ne.
THE DECK
THE LOOP
AQUABIKING
65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao
Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
008985
aquafit.vn
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also
offering fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving caloriecalibrated meals.
BOXING / FITNESS
49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2. Tel:
0947 77 13 26
Cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An Phu,
started by fitness guru Cyril
features the same personalized mentorship Cyrils
clients love. Includes yoga,
boxing and fitness for kids
and adults every day. No
membership fees. Pay for
classes in installments of
10. Also has kids activites
classes. Monday to Friday
every week at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by
Cyril himself.
MEKONG MERCHANT
PAPAGAYO
PENDOLASCO
PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Saigons longest running
HCMC
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from the
likes of Fauchon. The deli
upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung
branch serves tasty baguette
rolls in a comfortable lounge
area with free WiFi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured
meats in town. Free delivery
for Districts 1, 2 and 3.
WINE SHOP
Corner of Thao Dien & Duong
2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines
with a portfolio spanning
old and new world as well
as everything in between.
The outdoor terrace area is
the perfect spot to sample a
new tipple.
HAIRDRESSERS
CONCEPT COIFFURE
48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4625
Conceptcoiffure.vn
Open daily from 9am to 8pm
Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship
salon Venus Coiffure to a villa
in Thao Dien. A full range of
services is offered including
a dedicated kids salon.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS)
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao
Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam.
Tel: (08) 7300 7257
info@eishcmc.com
www.eishcmc.com
Located in the heart of Thao
Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School
Ho Chi Minh City offers a
supportive and challenging
academic education from
Early Years to Grade 12
based on the IB curriculum.
EIS is a Nobel Talent School
and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school
educates global citizens to
enjoy learning, inquiring and
caring for others.
AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (AIS)
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744
6960; Thu Thiem Campus,
264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West
Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International
School is an IB World School
with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering
an international education
from kindergarten to senior
school with the IB Primary
Years Programme (PYP),
Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE)
and IB Diploma Programme
(DP).
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (BIS)
246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2335
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved
by the British Government,
BIS provides a British style
curriculum for an international student body from
pre-school to Year 13. The
school is staffed by British
qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by
the Council of International
Schools and a member of
FOBISIA, BIS is the largest
international school in Vietnam.
MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage childrens engagement with
their surroundings, MIS
offers children from age
three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as
a variety of extracurricular
activities.
SMARTKIDS
1172 Thao Dien Compound,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare
centre provides children
ages 18 months to six years
with a high quality education
in a playful and friendly environment.
KIDS
FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
www.firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for
two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training
wheels or stabilisers, and
support proper balance development.
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2000
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.
district 3
LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3930 2239
Though only 1km from the
city centre, Acoustic is well
off most foreigners radars.
Come see the Vietnamese
house band play nightly, as
well as performances from
overseas bands and guest
artists.
CLOUD 9
WOODSTOCK BAR
PLAN B
CONTEMPORARY BAR
147 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
0987 684761
HIDEAWAY
INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building
with an outdoor courwrd,
the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to
relax. The mouth-watering
western menu is on the expensive side.
OPERATION: TEAROOM
TEA ROOM
335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3,
Tel: 0169 3583563
operationteavietnam.com
Traverse a wooden bridge
over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000,
in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware
available for purchase.
BOO
STREETWEAR
187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3
boo.vn
CRAFTS
& FURNITURE
ONTOP BAR
Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba
Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822
4866
Located on the 20th floor
with stunning views of the
city, houses an upscale,
contemporary interior and
an outdoor terrace. A good
venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip
ambience.
ROCKFANCLUB BAR
ROCK BAR
25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08)
6290 7489
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3823 3398
BUDS
ICE-CREAM PARLOUR
ATC FURNITURE
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08)
39326455
SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)
38403946
atc-craft.com
Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living
space of your home? Come
to ATC FURNITURE, you will
find a wide range of moderndesigned products (sofas,
chairs, beds...) manufactured
from eco-friendly materials
(water hyacinth & rattan). Our
outdoor (poly rattan) wickerfurniture range is suited
to your balcony or garden
space. A hanging (hammock)
chair is irresistible for complete relaxation after a long
day at work.
REMIX DECO
INDOOR FURNITURE
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com
EAT
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3820 7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Open for over a decade, Au
Lac Do Brazil is home to the
city's best Churrasco menu
with a wide variety of meats
from Calabrian sausage
and picanha through to
D-rump steak and smoked
hams. Pioneering the eatas-much-as-you-can theme
in Vietnam, Passadors bring
the meat skewers to your
table, and you, the customer
then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.
Best washed down with red
wine or a Caipirinha or five.
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
Namsonsteak.com
HIGHWAY 4
NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE
101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)
3602 2069
highway4.com
Named after the mountain
highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to
the north, Highway 4 serves
up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does
excellent Son Tinh branded
rice wine.
JOIE DE VIVRE
WESTERN / FRENCH
292/10, Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066
facebook.com/joie.vn
PHO HOA
PHO EATERY
260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3829 7943
SHRI
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower,
7274 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
A breezy terrace, indoor
HCMC
SUSHI / SASHIMI
53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh
Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930
0039
sushidiningaoi.com
Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi,
sashimi, and other dishes
such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles
in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set
lunches. Probably the best
sushi in town.
HUE / VIETNAMESE
187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3829 7242
Tibrestaurant.com.vn
VIET CHAY
Qu
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BELLY DANCE
No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do
Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832
9429
saigonbellydance.com
HAIRDRESSERS
YOGA
Tel: 0909 648193
michelle@michellelloyd.com
michellelloyd.com
American trained and licensed massage therapist
and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and
massage spaces in Districts
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VEGAN
Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
vietchay.vn
Th
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
CITYSMART
7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488
citysmart.vn
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DISTRICT 3
VAS
CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
A clinic provides world class
Chiropractic, Physiotherapy
and Foot Care. We specialize
in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee
pain, sports injuries, and all
types of foot problems. We
also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome
in children and adult.
TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
HOSPITAL
EASTERN MEDICINE
187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3932 6579
YKC SPA
219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3829 2791
ykcspa.com
HCMC
FOOD PROMOS
El Gaucho Goes Prix Fixe
elgaucho.asia
El Gauchos new restaurant at 74/1 Hai Ba
Trung (Q1, HCMC) already has a thriving
lunch trade, and with a new set lunch
menu starting at VND690,000 things are
about to get crazy. From 11am to 5pm, this
menu offers a variety of choices for starter,
main course and dessert, including tea or
coffee. And of course, the a la carte menu
is always available if you need to get
the 1,000g USDA rib eye at 3pm, go for it.
Sheraton Celebrations
sheratonsaigon.com
Sheraton starts this special month
by churning out the bratwurst every
Saturday in October at Saigon Caf,
along with other German delicacies like
farmer style pate, pork jelly, German cold
cuts, oven-roasted pork knuckle, roast
garlic pork neck and cheese spatzle. The
VND1.01 million++ bill includes a free
flow of house wine, coffee and tea.
Saigon Caf strikes again this
Halloween, with a buffet featuring
Halloween fare like youve never tasted,
including pumpkin salad, coleslaw,
Kansas City BBQ ribs, layered hamburger
pie, oven-roasted USDA beef prime rib,
candied yams, oyster Rockefeller and tasty
desserts like New York cheese cake and
Boston cream pie. The VND1.3 million++
includes free flows of wine, coffee and tea.
@ Mvenpick Saigon
moevenpick-saigon.com
On Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday
nights, Mvenpicks Japanese option,
Iki, offers the best raw deal in town
VND299,000++ for all the fresh sashimi,
sushi, nigiri, temaki and miso soup you can
eat. Surrounded by the modern trappings
Mvenpick is known for, youll snack down
on some of the best Japanese food in town.
During the rest of the week, their Business
Set Lunch gives a sturdy portion of Japanese
for a very respectable VND139,000++
available Monday to Friday lunchtimes.
parkhyattsaigon.com
Park Hyatt is taking the opportunity of
Vietnamese Womens Day to punctuate
their month-long dedication to Breast
Cancer Awareness Month, with a pink
decorating theme greeting hotel guests
and a special pink surprise awaiting all
resto guests on Oct. 20.
In addition, the much-loved afternoon
tea is getting sweeter with an all-pink
set-up. From chocolate-coated berries to
meringues and macaroons, pink lovers
will get the best colour in their lives by
visiting Park Lounge this month.
@ Caravelle Hotel
caravellehotel.com
Grapes grown on the foothills of the
Andes Mountains and ripened under the
Argentinian sun are the stars of a one-night
wine encounter at Caravelle. The famous
Mendoza regions Trapiche Winery will be
on show in a four-course gourmet menu
at Reflections, featuring the winerys
acclaimed Iscay MalbecCabernet Franc,
Iscay MerlotMalbec and more. The Taste of
the Andes will take place on Oct. 9 at 7pm,
priced at VND1.48 million net contact
0906 900523 for more information.
renaissance-saigon.com
The Riverside Cafs Executive Ghost
Chef is on the loose this Oct. 30 and
Oct. 31 making your taste buds feel
things they thought theyd never feel. For
VND1 million++ VND1.3 million++
including free flows of wine, beer and
Halloween cocktails youll go a long
way towards ensuring your Halloween is
much more treat than trick.
HCMC
courts, pool, steam bath and
nutrition bar.
phu my hung
PANORMA FITNESS
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE
& YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL
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INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
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CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
DISTRICT 7
PHU MY HUNG
BAKERIES
LAMOUR
SAVOURE
BAKERY
Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7
SIMRANS
BAKERY
SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908
828552
simrans.sg
EXPAT BAR
SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3282
A downstairs pool table, an
open, street side terrace and
specials on Tiger draft, this
fun but slightly run-down
joint is a local haunt for many
a resident of Saigon South.
PEACHES
CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
0999
Known as the Curry Pub,
this pleasant Saigon South
watering hole mixes the beer
with all things curry anything from Goan fish curries
to beef rendangs and more.
A popular local haunt.
RUBY SOHO
CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 3900
THE TAVERN
HIGH-END FURNITURE
The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton
Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413
7355
bellavitafurniture.com
MEKONG CREATIONS
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen
Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271
7758
mekong-quilts.org
EAT
BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON
INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and
bar on The Crescent with
great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned
international fare, all set in
a contemporary, spacious
environment.
EL GAUCHO
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
Unit CR1-12, The Crescent,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304
MING DYNASTY
NATHALIES
THAI / VIETNAMESE
S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 0822
nathaliesrestaurant.com
INTERNATIONAL
15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948
901465
bizuhotel.com/main/pages/
scottbinhs.php
Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this
restaurant boasts a full bar,
ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus
on the creative use of local
ingredients.
RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL SAIGON
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7,
Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext
120/121/122
renaissance.edu.vn
FV HOSPITAL
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 3333
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital
whose standard of health
care matches that found
anywhere, with 19 fulltime
French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing
expertise in 30 medical and
surgical areas, especially
maternity care.
EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,
Tel: 0906 684 969
HCMC
STUDENT EYE
THE THING ABOUT TEACHERS
passionate, understanding
or respectful those are
qualities any teacher should
have.
A great teacher, however,
is a personal notion. For me,
a few names and a few faces
came to mind and I was able
to discern one trait that they
all share: a slight disregard
for the rules. My old physics
and chemistry teacher used
to make fun of my shoes, only
when he left did I realise how
much I enjoyed his classes; my
sardonic humanities teacher
couldnt resist the urge to start
conversations with his classes
about the hidden facts of
history, and sometimes forgot
the curriculum altogether;
and last but not least, my
bizarre seventh grade French
teacher, who could be cuttingly
sarcastic, but also astonishingly
profound. Its not that the rules
didnt apply to them or that
these teachers were too good to
follow them. They just preferred
to carve out their own paths.
And maybe thats what I
yearned for the whole time: a
pioneering spirit.
HCMC
NON-FAMOUS PLACES
3 VO TRUONG TOAN: BEHIND THE SUGARCANE STAND
New Life
A young girl runs around in a white
dress, smiling, patting down halls in her
plastic shoes, blurring out of photos. Her
grandfather Hues husband, Nguyen
Quoc Nam looks lovingly on and tosses
Chin Dch
Cu Ly T Gic
S Hiu Qu Ch?
hng ta nh c k gy ra khng t vn .
u tin l v tr ca chng. Vit Nam,
ngoi tr mt s t cc trng hp ngoi
l, hu ht nhng ta nh ny u nm
trung tm thnh ph. Vi qu t c hn, ngi ta
lun ngh n gii php xa b chng v thay vo
l nhng ta nh cao tng. V mt gi tr khu t
v nhng li ch v kinh t n mang li, nhng to
nh chc tri nh th n gin l mang li hiu qu
cao hn.
Vic bo tn cng l mt vn . i vi nhiu
cng ty xy dng hay ch s hu ca nhng ta
nh ny, vic xa b chng v xy mi li hon ton
thng tiu tn t hn so vi vic bo tn v u t
vo nhng ta nh ang xp x v nt.
Yu t ch quan cng ng vai tr quan trng,
c bit vi nhng ni c gi tr v mt di sn.
Nhng ta nh nh Nh Ht Ln hay khch sn
Metropole H Ni hay Nh Ht Ln v ch Bn
Thnh thnh ph H Ch Minh l nhng ni
ng u trong danh sch di sn. Nhng cng trnh
ny l nhng a danh vi gi tr v mt lch s, tinh
thn v c kin trc. Nhng ta nh khc khng
c c sc mnh . Mt khi nhng gi tr di sn
cng cao, nhng ta nh cng c sc mnh c
bo tn.
V tt nhin, vic quy hoch th cng c ting
ni ring ca n. C H Ni v thnh ph H Ch
Minh u ang trong cc giai on pht trin. Vi
nhng thit k mang tn gi tin b hay honh
trng, mt s ta nh s c cu sng, nhng mt
Tin b hay Bo tn
Ti V Tn v Hn Th Na
Nhm ma ng i c cho
n, The James Cousins Dance
Company, s bng n trn sn khu
vo ngy 22/10 (H Ni) v 25
26/10 (TP. HCM).
H s biu din hai phn y cm
xc Without Stars v There We
Have c hai phn u c ly
cm hng t cun tiu thuyt ca
Haruki Murakami, Rng Na Uy. Mt
tc phm gn y ca nhm ma ny
c nh ph bnh ma ngi
H NI SUT THNG
VIETNAM
In the Nam Bo
At first I held on to the barrel of the
shouldered rifle of the guerilla ahead of
me, but soon my eyes could distinguish the
white triangle of his haversack and I was
able to follow him closely enough to avoid
taking a wrong turn on the narrow, winding
track. We walked as fast and as noiselessly as
the crackling, dried leaves under our rubber
sandals would permit.
Finally we halted, haversacks were
dumped on the ground. Now there were
broad smiles, more handshakes and the
Who was
Wilfred Burchett?
There have been many intrepid journalists,
but Wilfred Burchett (1911 1983) was
one of the most unique. His moment
came on Sep. 5, 1945, when Londons
Daily Express printed his Morse code
dispatch on the horrors of Hiroshima
the first public report detailing the postatomic effects on the city.
Although his report was one of
the scoops of the century, there was
much more to Burchetts intrepidness.
Starting in 1936, when he left his native
Australia to help Jewish refugees escape
Hitlers Germany, he began a career
of championing the underdog. Despite
turning 60 during the American War he
still travelled hundreds of kilometres to
cover it, often sheltering in tunnels with
NVA and Viet Cong soldiers against
attacks by US forces.
HCMC
Resentment
on the Road
How Niko Savvas learned to stop worrying
and love the calm. Illustration by Mads Monsen
A Difference of Degrees
Several days later, we speak via Skype
(Klaus and Nadia had just finished leading
a meditation retreat in France). I tell them
about the struggles of everyday life in
Saigon. I describe the frustration of my daily
commute how dozens of times each day,
I am confronted with the thoughtless, selfish
actions of others. Klaus nods patiently a
seasoned nomad himself, he knows what I
am talking about. There is a fundamental
difference between Asian and western
cultures. In the west, we are considerate,
but we are not tolerant. We hold the door
Home Alone
On my way out, I said thank you and
goodbye to all the doctors and nurses and the
security guard and the couple who were now
being examined by one of the interns.
The other intern, the one who gave the
running commentary on my procedure,
walked me outside to the kiosk where you
pay. I hobbled slowly and gingerly beside
him carrying my helmet as he explained
the drugs I needed (antibiotics, antiinflammatories, pain-killers), and the various
tinctures and patches to clean the wound.
When I had paid my bill, we stood outside
in the hospital car park. It was close to one
oclock in the morning and still warm.
He said, You come here along.
I said, What?
He said, You should have someone to...
to...
Ah yes. I came here alone.
You dont have someone take you home?
No, I have no-one, I said, suddenly
surprised by how sad that statement was.
He looked at the motorbike helmet in my
hand and then down at my foot. Will you
drive okay?
I flexed my toes by about a micrometre.
Sure, I said. Dont worry.
Dara O Foghlu is an Irish writer living in
Hanoi
Doing business in
Vietnam poses its own set