Word Vietnam January 2015 FA

NH XUT BN LAO NG
W
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CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

VIETNAM EDITION
JANUARY 2015
NOT FOR SALE
Hoegaarden Belgium 4.9 ALC

Stella Artois Belgium 5.0 ALC
Leffe Blond Belgium 6.6 ALC
contents
wordvietnam.com
JANUARY 2015
056
088
078
THE TALK
INSIDER
010 / A Letter to the Editor
050 / Lifes Better Barbecued
The roller coaster that is Word
Bringing western BBQ to the masses
011 / The Big Five
052 / The Rise of the

Convenience Store
Events to look out for this month
Fast food, WiFi and something called

choice
BRIEFINGS
012 / A Great Ride
056 / Mall Rats
A scooter ride for charity
019 / The Science of Video Games
What happens when nerds get together
020 / Dangling the Carrot
Getting street legal
This months cover story took us to

Vietnams selfie Meccas
078 / Another Burner in the Wall
Playing archaeologist with Saigon

Outcasts graffiti walls
084 / Festival Season in Vietnam
018
EAT & DRINK
Vietnams party kids get a taste of the

future
090 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
Halia Hanoi is stepping it up on Xuan

Dieu
092 / Street Snacker Hanoi
On the menu: Pho Ga
094 / Mystery Diner HCMC
La Bettola seduces with its menu, but

what about the food?
096 / Street Snacker HCMC
On the menu: Bo Kho
FASHION
098 / A New Skate of Mind
Henry Tran makes skate style look

effortless
088 / Standpoint Theories
Artistic collaboration hits the next level
098
contents
104
114
178
HCMC
TRAVEL
104 / Hokkaido Dreams
The prefecture where Japan breathes
108 / 22.5 Hours in Seoul
Meet Gillman Barrackes, the home of

contemporary art in Southeast Asia
124 / Travel Promos

HANOI
040 / To-Do List
046 / Overscene
125 / Hanoi City Guide
128 / Recalling Hanoi
130 / Coffee Cup
135 / Food Promos
4 | Word January 2015 | wordvietnam.com
038 / Overscene
145 / HCMC City Guide
A former resident returns
114 / Art in Singapore
030 / To-Do List
154 / Coffee Cup

156 / Top Eats A
164 / Top Eats B
162 / Food Promos
COLUMNS
134 / Student Eye
136 / The Alchemist
140 / The Therapist
142 / Medical Buff

144 / Book Buff
148 / Business Buff

150 / Job Search
152 / Body and Temple
158 / The Empty Wok
166 / A World of Good
176 / Tieng Viet
FINAL SAY
178 / The Inside Story of the
Guerrilla War
Chapter 4 of Wilfred Burchetts classic

account
182 / Even the Toothpaste is Not Real
Nikos having problems... again
184 / Dead Mall
When shoppers stop shopping
188 / The Last Call
We catch up with Santa on his (her) latest

trip to Vietnam
Tt c hnh nh v ni dung
trong n phm ny thuc bn
quyn ca n phm Word ca
C.Ty CP TMDVQCTruyn Thng
Dng Hunh. Mi s sao chp
khng c php s b xem l
vi phm lut S Hu Tr Tu hin
hnh ca nh nc Cng Ha X
Hi Ch Ngha Vit Nam.
Word is a registered
trademark. No content
may be reproduced in
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authorisation of the
owners.
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
EDITORIAL
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
editor@wordvietnam.com
ED WEINBERG
Deputy Editor
ed@wordvietnam.com
MADS MONSEN
Creative Director
mads@wordvietnam.com
HOA LE
Staff Editor
hoale@wordvietnam.com
KYLE PHANROY
Photo Editor
kyle@wordvietnam.com
DAVID MANN
Staff Editor
david.mann@wordvietnam.com
FRANCIS XAVIER
Staff Reporter
francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com
JULIE VOLA
Staff Photographer
julie@wordvietnam.com
For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609 689 or
Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668
MARK ALLAN
Website & Graphic Designer
mark@wordvietnam.com
NGUYEN LOC
Layout Designer
loc@wordvietnam.com
ADVERTISING
VU HA KIM VY
Marketing
vy@wordvietnam.com
JON ASPIN
Staff Writer
jon@wordvietnam.com
Word - Duong Huynh

Advertising JSC
ADMINISTRATION
BAO ROSS
General Director
bao@wordvietnam.com
BAO ROSS
General Director
bao@wordvietnam.com
TRANG LE
Chief Accountant
trang@wordvietnam.com
TRINH BUI
Sales Executive
trinh@wordvietnam.com
CHAU GIANG
Area Sales Manager Hanoi
giang@wordvietnam.com
DISTRIBUTION
trinh@wordvietnam.com
SUBSCRIPTIONS
trang@wordvietnam.com
Special thanks to David Harris, Glen Riley, Katie Jacobs, Huyen

Tran, Dana McNairn, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from
Bookworm, Riccha Arora, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, International
SOS, Nicola Connolly, Niko Savvas, Simon Stanley, Harry Hodge,
To Thu Phuong, George Burchett, Rachel Cabakoff, Henry Tran,
Linh Nguyen, Paul Rowe and Francis Claus
Seasons greetings from everyone at

Word. Some of us managed to make
this photo shoot, some didn't. But
we're all here in spirit. Wishing all our
readers and supporters a fantastic
year ahead. Lets make 2015 a good
one!
CHUYN DU LCH & M THC

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Sa bn in: Nick Ross
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Ba: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
Thc hin lin kt xut bn:

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ISBN: 978-604-59-1963-7
In xong v np lu chiu Qy 1 nm 2015.
The prelude
Along the way we got
a feel for one vision of
Vietnams future, one
that unsettles some even
as it gives others access
to worlds theyve never
known.
This is one of the
main focuses of Word,
to capture Vietnam as it
grasps its way towards
a future that seems
alternately fantastic
and bittersweet. When
Eden Centre in Saigon
was demolished to
make way for Vincom
Center A, something
was lost. Hang Da
Market in Hanoi went
the same way what
replaced it hasnt quite
worked. But Vietnams
metropolises arent
museums they are
among the worlds
fastest growing. If all

goes right, both Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City
could eventually enjoy
the same world-city
status as Singapore and
Bangkok.
In the preservational
push, certain nuances
are being lost. And one
of those nuances that
has been left out of the
argument is that these
new constructions
are evolving a culture
around them, one that
is no less interesting
and place-specific than
the culture theyre
replacing.
Aeon Mall in Ho Chi
Minh Citys Tan Phu is
one such experiment in
culture building and
by the 20-minute wait it
took to exit the parking
lot it seems like its

going to plan. Theres a
development around it
called Celadon City, and
it doesnt seem like an
exaggeration. Theyre
building a new world
on the outskirts of Ho
Chi Minh City in a
similar style to their
initiatives to the south
and west of Hanoi. The
mall is Celadon Citys
main street.
While the merits
of these massive
developments
are debatable, the
temperature-controlled,
aesthetically-refined
space they provide has
proven popular, and
doesnt look like its
going away any time
soon. Ed Weinberg,
Deputy Editor
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

VIETNAM EDITION
JANUARY 2015
W
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his past month

isnt only the
time of year
when uncanny
swarms of motorbikes
overwhelm downtown,
its also the time when
us skinflint types go
back to the scene of our
teenage triumphs and
trials thats right, the
mall.
So thats what we
decided to do for the
cover story this month,
Mall Rats. We explored
the holiday seasons
selfie Mecca and ate
plenty of middling food
court lunches, got some
insight into Japan and
Koreas expansionistic
commercial agendas
and dropped into the
arcade for the nightly
spandex-clad dance-off.
NH XUT BN LAO NG
THIS MONTH'S COVER

Cover by DH Advertising
Photo by David Harris
HAVE YOUR SAY

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS? THEN LET US KNOW ON FACEBOOK FACEBOOK.COM/WORD.VIETNAM OR VIA TWITTER, @WORDVIETNAM.
NO MATTER HOW POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE YOUR THOUGHTS, WE LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU.
inbox
The Will of the
People
I have read the
column by Tim
Doling (The Wordie
Awards, p. 88, December
2014). I understand
that, following
representation to the
authorities, the building
may be spared, or
at least the facade.
So, people in Ho Chi
Minh City sometimes
take notice when their
architectural heritage is
threatened. JN
Another One Bites

the Dust
Thats a bloody shame
(Sapa Market Closes,
posted in December
on wordvietnam.com).
Bad enough to tear it
down, but replace it
with a shopping mall?
Unbelievable. TT
DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US
AT EDITOR@WORDVIETNAM.COM WERE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.
Sweet Vibes
Just wanted to
say thank you for
including the Charity
Music Concert in
your November 2014
publication. The
concert was a big
success!
As someone who
has never commented
or written in for any
articles, just wanted to
say I love the article
A Bender with Beckham
(p. 12, December 2014)
by Niko Savvas in
this months issue!
Absolutely hilarious!!
Am still laughing five
minutes after reading
it.
Please send my
thanks to Niko for
providing some
needed relief while
waiting to be seen at a
dental clinic. LH
#wordgate
So the Word magazine
listed their top
restaurants in Vietnam
which many people
including me have
disagreed with, so we
will list our own top 50
list. Please post below
about the restaurants
you love the most in
Hanoi! Time limit is two
weeks for the list then
two weeks for trying and
voting. #FoodiesUnite
#FoodiesAssemble
MO, Foodies in Hanoi
Facebook group
Is this a public show of
support for [name redacted]?
#wordgate ME
I certainly hope not
[name redacted]! Id
prefer if this was a public
show of support for

the shared love of food
between the standard,
everyday people
prevailing over the
pretentious and arrogant
report of the irrelevant
opinions of a select few
quality judges ED
[Name redacted] that
is a little judgemental no?
it was about the quality
of food as opposed to the
pricing! EB
Word aint always the
word BH
Hey, [name redacted],
you seem like a stand up
guy so I dont wanna get
in a fb argument...
BUT
No name calling.
The Word is a great
institution, much like this
group (albeit has been

around for longer) and
calling a bunch of people
who are part of the expat
scene like everyone else
pretentious, arrogant
and irrelevant implies
that you think a group
of self-labelled foodies
is in fact the opposite, in
quite a dummy-spittingout way.
By all means do a poll,
and maybe statistically, it
is better. But dont trash
the opinion of educated,
knowledgeable peers.
I hope I see you at
the Moose & Roo later
to shake your hand and
assure you of no hard
feelings, but I cant let
this slide without a hold
up.
Correction
The artwork shown on page 135 of our December 2014 issue should have been
credited to Ngo Van Sac the work is called Up The Stream. We regret the omission.
the talk
LEAD ARTICLE
NATIONAL
A Letter to the Editor

Paul Rowe, resident of beautiful, historic Vung Tau, takes a ride
on that rollercoaster called Word
was in a good mood

when I when I opened
the [December 2014
issue of the] magazine.
With Christmas just
around the corner and my
ca phe sua nong dripping,
how could I not be in a
good mood? I started
reading. First, Nick Rosss
article which managed to
put a positive spin on the
metro upheaval in Saigon.
It also managed to
cleverly backhand Hanoi
at the same time. That
story was well received.
I turned the page.
Excellent; something
about Beckham visiting
Vietnam. Some guy called
Niko Savvas appears to
have gone drinking with
Beckham. Great, I cant
wait.
But Im not even
halfway through the
first paragraph when
my excellent mood
is shattered. David
Beckham is introduced
as The guy who used to
play soccer for the Los
Angeles Galaxy. What!
What! David Beckham,
six times captain for
England! David Beckham,
OBE! David Beckham,
the best paid player in the world! David
Beckham, the saviour of endangered animal
species! David Beckham, who owns his own
beer label! Described as The guy who used
to play soccer for the Los Angeles Galaxy.
I snorted and huffed through the rest of
Savvass article. I felt like I should chuck
Word in a bin and storm back to the security
of my home. I didnt. Im persistent.
Sweet Redemption
I turned the page. It did not look promising
The Axis of Not Cricket. This sounded
wrong on so many levels. But, what an
unexpected surprise. An article which was
basically sending out notice that the cricket
season is upon us and the Saigon cricket
scene needs players. That in itself wasnt
so surprising, because it was cricket season
and Saigon needs players.
It was the kernel of the article that got
should leave the coffee

shop and dump the Word
in the nearest trashcan.
Poor Niko
my spirits soaring. The story told of a

poor unfortunate from a country that was
outside of the realm of willow and leather.
Someone whose country plays games with
sticks and balls. A country that doesnt
bathe in the luxury of knowing their more
superior activity is Gods game. Thats
right, an American who converted to
cricket. Im not religious, but Aspins article
had me mentally shouting-out triumphant
hallelujahs. And to top it off, to show that
his faith was strong and permanent, he
tattooed the Aussie cricket crest on his now
fully redeemed body.
Wow! My emotions were on that
rollercoaster called Word. Dare I turn the
next page? I flicked through to page 29. I
stopped, my eyes narrowed-down, glued
to the authors name. Niko Savvas; yes,
the same Niko Savvas who penned the
blasphemous David Beckham article. I
could feel my spirits dropping already. I
But as I said before, I am

persistent. So I inched
carefully into this article;
a story which involved
Facebook. Apparently
Savvas had penned
something in Facebook
that was eating up his
conscience. Initially I
thought Great! Let him
roast in his own self-pity
and regrets. My spirits
started to lift again.
However, as Savvas
continued with what
was basically a soulbaring expos, something
happened inside me. My
spirits started dropping
again.
Poor Niko, I thought.
He revealed that the life
of a journalist isnt all
TV interviews, free beer
and award presentations.
It revolved around
pleasing his boss, his
fickle readers and keeping
his journalistic integrity.
Poor Niko, I thought
again. Lets not dwell on
that tear-inducing article.
In less time than it
takes to down one cup of coffee, my
emotions had gone from very happy to
crushed to praising the God of cricket
to uncertainty to sweet-revenge and
finally to guilt, all in the matter of a few
pages.
Does this mean I will refuse to read the
next issue of Word? Not likely. As always,
I will look forward to picking up the next
edition. And why not? The editors have
their fingers on the pulse of a vibrant
country, and their articles uncannily
mirror Vietnam. A country, which seems
to enjoy taking me or us on an emotional
rollercoaster.
A novelist, tour guide and teacher, Paul
Rowe has been living in Vung Tau for almost
a decade. Apparently his blood line now goes
back to Emperor Dinh, but to find out for
sure, you can check out both Paul and his wife
Sen on besttoursinvungtau.weebly.com
the big five
10
11 JAN. SUNDAY
JAN. SATURDAY
HANOI
HCMC
RUSSIA MEETS VIETNAM
For anyone put off by the ongoing

conflict in the Ukraine, time to put it all
aside in the name of live music.
Thats what CAMA ATK have certainly
done, with the arrival of Russian, electronic
post-rock threesome, I Am Waiting For You
Last Summer. Think guitars mixed with
electronic beats, and youll get the idea.
Not to be outdone, local Hanoi duo
Proportions will also be on-stage. Veterans
of the rock scene that emerged in the capital
in the late 1990s, their heartfelt vocals, epic
tremolo pickings, melodic riffs and widescreened lyrics contrast with loud-quiet
dynamics.
16
JAN. FRIDAY
HCMC
17-25
CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba

Trung, Hanoi. Entrance TBA. Doors are at 8pm
ROCK BATTLE
Okay, we usually dont copy-andpaste, but those jokers at James and

the Van Der Beeks and Orangutan
have been cleverer than we would have in
the time were devoting to this write-up. So
take it away boys:
On Saturday, January 16th witness the
greatest spectacle Saigon has seen since the
desolation of Nguyen Hue. Former welterweight title holder James and the Van Der Beeks
will be duking it out with Saigon's rising new
puncher Orangutan.
Support fight comes from Bears Love
War, who will be battling it out with himself.
Cornerman (lady) DJ Maraphoria will be mopping
up blood and spinning the between round tracks.
The action happens at The Cube Bar, 31B Ly
Tu Trong, Q1, HCMC, starting at 9pm. Entry
VND50,000
20
JAN.
HANOI
CLAP FESTIVAL
Dont get put off by the

title, Clap Festival could
potentially be one of the
most stunning arts-based film
festivals of the year. Organised
by the French Insitute in Vietnam
(IFV), eight days will be given
over to all seven types of film at
LEspace (24 Trang Tien, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi). So think short
5
film, documentary, feature film,
internet video, scripted reality,
TV movies and creative video.
The result of an ongoing
collaboration between French and
Vietnamese artists, entrance to all
screenings is free of charge. For a
schedule, head to clapfestival.com.
The only problem, the website is
only in French and Vietnamese.
Google Translate, anyone?
THE LAST OF THE GRAND

HOLIDAY BRUNCHES
Sure, youre just coming out of your

Christmas-New-Years-oh-whatthe-heck-whats-another-fancy-brunch hotel
buffet streak, but youre kind of missing
those 100-course meals. Mark Sunday Jan.
11 on your calendar if you love eight-hour
brunches particularly the kind with a
lot of ground to cover in three distinct
culinary zones spread over two floors, 15
live stations in total and enough free flow
cocktails and Veuve Cliquot to get you
through the day. The InterContinental will
be your host for this day of awesome excess,
and they sincerely hope it doesnt derail any
New Years resolutions.
The Sunday brunch to end all Sunday
brunches goes from 10am to 6pm at the InterCon
cnr. Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, HCMC
VND2.75 million++ a person, with 10 percent
discount on groups of 10 or more. For more
information or to make a reservation, call (08)
3520 9099 or email dine@icasianasaigon.com
JAN. TUESDAY
HCMC
LOUD MINORITY
PRESENTS MAC
DEMARCO
Saigon International Music Week

came and went, but it only whetted
your appetite for first-rate international
indie. Now Canadian sensation Mac
DeMarco is here to disabuse you of that
notion, and maybe get naked onstage.
Slate this in the categories of blissful
guitar pop, super fun show that will
make for a weird Tuesday night.
Mac DeMarco plays at Cargo
Bar 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
HCMC at 8pm, VND350,000
advance, VND450,000 at the door
(VND100,000 less across the board
with student ID). For tickets, check
ticketbox.vn or Asian Kitchen
185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, HCMC
wordvietnam.com | January 2015 Word | 11
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HCMC
A Great
Ride
Last months Charity
Scooter Ride brought the
classic bikes out en masse
he Saigon Times dubbed it the

Dong Nai Derby. I wanted to call it
Vietnams answer to the cult movie
Quadrophenia. Most of us were, after
all, travelling on classic scooters.
Yet while the Charity Scooter Ride in aid
of Hoa Mai Orphanage did take over 100
bikes to Dong Nai, we didnt have mods and
rockers. And it certainly wasnt a derby. Our
efficient friends who stood so stoically at
roadsides in the heat of the mid-morning sun
put paid to that. Round a bend, not obeying
the speed limit, and bang. Speed-gun bang.
10 or was it 15 got put to the Where is
your license? test. Not everyone got through.
That said, the Saigon Scooter Centreorganised drive out to Hoa Mai Orphanage
in Dong Nai was one of those days you dont
forget. Despite the glitches, it just seemed to
work.
At 8.30am the bikes and their drivers piled
down a side alley on Quoc Huong in Ho Chi
Minh Citys District 2, crowding out the space
usually taken up by a banh cuon stand.
We cant sell this morning, complained
the stand owner, shaking his head. He knows

me, you see, and needed someone to vent his
frustration on.
Its in aid of charity, I replied. And dont
worry, well be gone soon.
No answer. He walked away, still shaking
his head. Being charitable isnt for everyone,
especially when making a living is at stake.
Led in convoy by two members of the
District 12 motorbike club on their 1800cc
Honda Goldwings, to Mr Banh Cuons relief
by 9.30am we departed and headed to the
ferry in Cat Lai.
Dust, traffic, heat, dust, traffic, heat.
The 35km drive to our lunch-stop
restaurant in Long Thanh was hot and
sweaty. We just about all made it, but no
longer in convoy as had been the original
idea. Our stoic friends by the roadside made
sure of that.
Santa on a Harley
The next and most important stop was of
course the orphanage, the focus of the event.
Piling in, bike after classic bike, a vintage
scooter competition was set up in one end of

the complex, while all the gifts were piled up
at another.
With the kids assembled, dressed
impeccably in uniforms, the gift-giving
started. First it was ice cream a little
sweetener and then teddy bears.
Eventually Santa arrived on the back of
a custom Harley. Even though he had been
downing the beers over lunch (he wasnt
driving, you see), he still managed to put on
all the Ho Ho Hos and jingle bells that you
could throw a Christmas puppy at, delighting
the kids with his wonky beard and gaudy
gifts.
When we finally departed and headed back
to Saigon for the after party at Boomarang,
a camaraderie had built up between the
drivers. New friendships were formed,
connections made, old relationships revived.
It wasnt just the giving something back idea
that had us all enthused; it was the day and
the event itself.
As charity junkets go, this was one to
remember. Nick Ross
Photos by Dave Cumin
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HANOI
Race for Vietnams Wildlife
The Song Hong Half Marathon had its seventh outing in early December
hotos of hornless rhinos and caged

tigers dot the course. Race for
Vietnams Wildlife proclaim the
backs of the green and white race
shirts. Volunteers stand proudly by the
banners, directing runners with enthusiastic
waves. Doing well, they cheer. You can
do it Save Vietnams wildlife!
Dec. 7 dawned cool and clear for the
annual Song Hong Half Marathon. Cohosted by the Red River Runners (RRR) and
Education for Nature Vietnam (ENV), this
years race attracted over 350 participants
from 34 countries, 32 percent of whom were
Vietnamese.
Set by RRR volunteers, the 5km, 10km
and 21km courses wound through the
peaceful streets of Ciputra and along the
not-so-peaceful but pretty roads that ring
West Lake. Meeting every Saturday for a
10km social run, the group is well versed in
plotting the best paths to avoid traffic and
pollution the two biggest complaints of
any Hanoi runner.
The best part of RRR is the people, says
one long-time participant of the club. It
is so much fun to meet people of various
nationalities and backgrounds, who are all
brought together through the common bond
of running. Everyone is at a different level of
running as well. So there is always someone
to run with and someone to catch.
This was also true of this years race,
which attracted a range of running levels.
The Cause
As in 2013, all profits from the Song Hong
race went to ENV, a Hanoi-based NGO
working to increase understanding about
wildlife protection and conservation. This
year will not just be about participants
having fun and running the 21km, 10km
or 5km race, said Pablo Garcia, the Song

Hong Half Marathon event manager,
before the race. The 2014 marathon will
also contribute to the important cause
of protecting wildlife by helping to raise
awareness about the threats to Vietnams
wildlife, and encouraging the public not
to consume foods or medicines made from
wildlife.
As Vietnams wealth grows, so too does
the desire for exclusive, luxury products,
such as coveted wildlife goods, and this
increasing demand is having a significant
impact on global and domestic wildlife
trade. ENV, however, is confident that
improving knowledge, especially in the
younger generation, is the foundation for
decreasing wildlife trade.
The money [from the race] is essential
in helping us to reduce consumer demand
for wildlife products, strengthen law
enforcement and legislation, and mobilise
public participation in combating wildlife
crime, says the ENV communications team.
The Winners
Making it to the End
5 KM M EN
On the morning of the run, however, it

was crossing the finish line that was at the
forefront of most peoples minds. Whether
competing to win or just for the experience,
all runners seemed to be having fun
cheering each other on and enjoying the
clear, sunny morning.
It was Hugo Page from Canada, however,
who cruised into first for this years Song
Hong Half Marathon. He completed the
21km in a scant 1hr 21m, five minutes ahead
of his closest rival, Samuel Anderson.
Katie Jacobs
For more information on Red River Runners
click on redriverrunners.com. ENV can be found
at envietnam.org
Hiroki Umeda, Japan, 21:43
5 KM W OMEN
Gina Pulciani, USA, 24:54
10 KM M EN
Luke Kenny, Ireland, 38:12
10 KM W OMEN
Heidi Kay, USA, 50:51
21 KM M EN
Hugo Page, Canada, 1:21:29
21 KM W OMEN
Kristina Van Dijk, New Zealand, 1:41:23
briefings
BRIEFINGS
NHA TRANG
Altitude
A launch party in a storm
is a great success
rarely return to a place the day after

something momentous. Its a bit like
a criminal returning to the scene of
a crime. But in this instance there is
nothing illegal at stake. Rather its my
chance to see Altitude the day after its
reopening party.
The problem is that the relaunch of what is
presently Nha Trangs highest bar took place
in the middle of a storm the remnants
of Typhoon Hagupit that ravaged the
Philippines the week before. And yet rather
than running for cover, people turned up. In
fact well over 200 people of all nationalities
made the 28-floor ascent from the lobby of
the Sheraton. While the entertainment, space
age dcor and champagne made for what
was one of the best opening parties this year,
the wind and rain meant we never got the
chance to savour the outdoor terrace and the
views.
So I have decided to see what Altitude
would be like on a normal day, without the
tempest of a storm. Not that the weather has

quite returned to the Nha Trang standard
sunshine. It has been windy all day and the
sky has been overcast.
Straddling the Bay

I arrive at 8pm and there are only a handful
of customers. But by 8.30 Altitude is starting
to attract a fair few drinkers. With its white
and light blue neon-lit colour theme and
marble-coated lightboxes, this venue is quite
unique for Nha Trang, if not the whole of
Vietnam. Theres something snow-like about
it, a nice juxtaposition with the sun, sea and
sand of Nha Trang. I imagine this being the
kind of top-end watering hole youd find in
Moscow, Sydney or Hong Kong.
With the music pausing for a well-earned
breather, I leave my drink behind and head
out to the terrace. The views of night-lit Nha
Trang and the roaring sea are sensational.
And in the background are always the
mountains, the geographical feature that for
me gives Nha Trang its unique character. The

bay curves round on either side, and in the
distance the Hollywood lights of Vinpearl
shine into the night.
My mind flickers back to the night before.
Justin Murta was on the decks, local band
The Gypsy Flies added some live Latin, and
model, singer and non-stop celebrity Vu
Ha Anh performed twice. They all wooed
the crowd and at times the atmosphere was
electric. Well-known DJ Richard Garcia
played later on, but we missed him. By this
time we had returned to our hotel room to
sample the drunken delights of room service.
Yet it was one hell of a night. There was
no pretention, no seeing and being seen, no
dressing for impressing. Despite the storm,
it was just one of those events that seemed
to work, one of those nights where everyone
seemed to get on with everyone else.
Hell was it fun. Nick Ross
Altitude Bar is on the 28th Floor of Sheraton
Nha Trang
Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi

6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist
Tel:
T
el: (04) 3845 5224 - Fax: (04) 3747 4330
pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com
Au Lac Do Brazil I HC M C
238 P asteur
asteur, Dist. 3
Tel:
T
el: (08) 3820 71 57 - Fax: (08) 3820 7682
pr@aulacdobrazil.com
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HCMC
Marking A Mark
in Saigon
Making crumbling walls into art
hey are all around us. Theyve been

painted over, written on, leaned on,
weathered down, bulldozed and
re-built again. Theyve witnessed
historical events; they witness the
everyday hustle and bustle. These arent
just walls, they each tell a story.
Adrienne De Geer and Maria Graven have
captured these walls and are getting them
noticed.
Originally enthralled by the architecture
and adornments around Saigon, their eyes
were caught by the distressed walls. After
being photographed by Maria, the two knew
they had to do something with these walls in
some way or another cue Mark Your Wall.
Maria has been in Saigon for a year and
Adrienne over two, and both feel a close
connection to the city.
For me, the art is all around here. Even
the electricity wires, how they come together.
Its just this chaotic, growing, dynamic city
that just makes it amazing, Adrienne says.
You can see the history coming through the
walls. Every crack, every contrast.
Adriennes idea of capturing the walls
pairs with Marias photographic eye, and
together theyve discovered unique walls
all throughout Saigon ornamented with
distressed markings, phone numbers,
colourings and more.
Following the photographs, the project
came together in just a few short weeks, and
officially launched in October.
How It Works
Its all about catching the moment, because
the walls are changing all the time, says
Maria. The environment is changing them,
some have been painted over, the cracks get
bigger and bigger.
Flipping through a collection of 30 or 40
wall photos, a customer picks their wall.
Then it becomes yours to design. Without
taking away the original appearance of
the wall itself, customers are able to add

significant details or embellishments the
date they moved to Vietnam, their childrens
names, favourite colours and so on.
Next, Maria goes to work adding the
designs on her computer. The final product
is printed on a canvas of varying sizes,
branded with the address of the exact
location and paired with a customised
black frame. Its not just a wall, she says.
Youre giving it a mark and youre making
it personal.
We have the Facebook wall, we have
walls all around us, says Adrienne. A wall
is somewhere you make a mark.
Although this is just the beginning for
Mark Your Wall, the two are hoping to
incorporate Vietnams history into their
artwork.
Wed like to go into what happened
surrounding the walls, the buildings, the
address or the region. Wed really like
to build a story around the photo, says
Adrienne. Focus more on the history, but
also incorporate the contemporary arts of
Saigon.
Walls Without Boundaries

Still in the projects early stages, another idea
theyve been playing around with is giving
back to the community as well. But theyve
already changed the perspectives of a few,
and next time you wander past you may
notice something more than just the concrete
drilling company stencils.
The reason why we started this is
because we like the walls in Vietnam,
Adrienne says. This will always be the
core. Rachel Cabakoff
Mark Your Wall is available in sizes ranging
from mini (60x20cm, VND2.7 million) and midi
(120x40cm, VND4.8 million) to maxi (150x50
cm, VND5.2 million). To make your mark, visit
facebook.com/MarkYourWall or markyourwall.
com
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HCMC
The Science of Video Games

From the people who brought you countless international DJs and clever documentary
films comes... a 48-hour science video game programming jam??
he GameLAB project started off

as a science video game-making
collaboration between Fact & Fiction
Films, Wellcome Trust UK and the
Oxford Clinical Research Unit. The latter is a
large-scale clinical and public health research
unit based at the Hospital for Tropical
Diseases of both Ho Chi Minh City and
Hanoi. From there it sprawled to the point
that Fact & Fiction partner Nick Fernandez
was dressed up as a giant furry antibody at a
recent event at the Ho Chi Minh City Youth
Culture House.
And now theyre getting started with the
really fun stuff.
On Jan. 23, theyre renting a villa in Ho
Chi Minh City and packing it with scientists
and game programmers, while extending
an open invite to local game enthusiasts.
Once 6pm on the Friday rolls around, the
creativity starts. From there, you might

never look at malaria the same way again.
High Concept
What theyre aiming for is the type of unique
collaboration that the Wellcome Trust has
already stewarded in London, engaging
Vietnamese scientists to work together with
game designers on ideas that are educational
and entertaining. And the edutainment
model has come a long way since the days
of the flawed science-flaunting seen in
Star Wars (theres no sound in space, duh).
Nowadays we have Neil Degrasse Tyson
critiquing the science in Gravity, and science
games actually sell... well, at least the ones
with minimally realistic zombies in them.
The scientists will provide the scientific
concepts, while the game designers will
invoke the Candy Crush gods in pursuit of
a game that people will actually play. And

thats what well be on hand for getting a
first look at the games of science future.
In March and April, the finished products
will be rolled out, with public events at key
youth venues and shopping centres around
Ho Chi Minh City, as well as a presence online.
All this aims to connect the two things
teens do with their lives go to school and
play with technology. As the press release
says, We believe that its possible to create
truly engaging games that are based on truly
important science. With such strong links
to technology, there is a natural synergy
between science and gaming, which is
something we will fully take advantage of.
Ed Weinberg
The 48-hour game programming jam is on
from Jan. 23 at 6pm to Jan. 25 at 6pm. For more
details, check gamelabvn.com/en
briefings
BRIEFINGS
NATIONAL
Dangling the Carrot

From January, foreign driving licenses
will be accepted in Vietnam
efore we all leap for joy, lets take a

step to the right. The fact that from
the beginning of January, foreign
drivers licenses from countries
signed up to the Vienna Convention on
Road Traffic will be acceptable in Vietnam,
is a great thing. Not only do many of us
avoid the risk of on-the-spot fines, but
more importantly the insurance angle
is solved. If youre driving legally in
Vietnam on a foreign license, youll now
be covered if the worst occurs.
Yet, theres a little issue here. Most
foreigners living in Vietnam dont even think
of driving a motorbike before they move to
these climes. Which begs the question is
the new law actually going to have much
benefit? How many of us actually have a
motorbike license from back home?
The answer is, not many. But will the
change be beneficial? In part, yes.
Lets take my case.
I have a UK drivers license for a car. I
can now use this in Vietnam to drive a car
without having to apply for a Vietnamese
license. If I was to transfer it for a
Vietnamese license, then its validity would
only be for the length of my temporary
resident card. But more importantly, my
Vietnamese A1 motorbike license, which
presently has no expiry date, would
suddenly have an expiry date, too. This
would mean having to renew my license
every two years. Very frustrating.
In theory, the new rules mean that I dont
have to do that. Or do they?
Grey Areas
The problem with all changes to legislation
is the lack of clarity. So in the UK, for
example, Im allowed to drive on a license
issued overseas for six months. After that I
have to take the British driving test. Will a
similar scenario exist in Vietnam? At present
we dont know.
Holding an international driving permit,
which is easy to apply for in your home
country, means that you are allowed to
drive in 150 countries around the world
and dont have to sit a driving test in any
of those countries. However, they are only
valid for 12 months and while from January,
Vietnamese citizens will be able to apply for
these permits, its not clear if they will be
accepted in Vietnam.
Then theres a question of which countries
actually signed up or ratified the 1968 treaty.
According to the United Nations website
treatys.un.org, 73 countries have agreed to
the convention. This includes all of Western
Europe, the UK, Scandinavia, most of
Eastern Europe, the Russian Foundation,
Thailand, Indonesia, Brazil, Chile and South
Africa. But noticeably the US, Canada, Japan,
South Korea, India, Singapore, Malaysia,
Australia and New Zealand are excluded.
If you have a driving license issued in one
of these countries, will it be accepted in

Vietnam?
The answer once again is we dont
know, although holders of ASEAN driving
licenses will be covered, as they are accepted
throughout the whole region.
Getting Legal
Of course, having a valid driving in license
in Vietnam whether it is issued here or
overseas still means you require two more
pieces of documentation when you take
control of a vehicle. The first is insurance
which is only VND66,000 for 12 months for
a motorbike with a 50cc engine and above. If

you dont have it, youll get fined.
The second is, of course, papers. Your bike
or car must have valid papers. If it doesnt,
then your vehicle may well be confiscated
and never returned.
The moral of the story? My instinct tells
me that with these changes its going to get
even harder to drive a motorbike in Vietnam
without a valid license. More checks will be
made, more fines dished out and there will
definitely no longer be any excuses.
So, make sure you get a license. Its not
difficult. Nick Ross
Getting Your Driving License

There are three routes to getting a driving
license and they are based on whether or
not you have a license back home. Here
is what you need to know.
1) For those with no license overseas: You

will need to take both written and practical
exams to get a two-wheel or four-wheel
driving license in Vietnam. The written
exam is in Vietnamese.
2) For those with a car driving license
overseas: You can exchange your car

driving license overseas for a temporary
Vietnamese version. However, this only
lasts for the length of your visa or resident
permit. So, unless youre genuinely going
to drive a car in Vietnam, this is not worth
doing. What the overseas license does
allow you is the possibility of taking the test
for a motorbike license without having to
do the written test, which is in Vietnamese.
A
IT
TWO - WHEEL LICENSE HAS NO EXPIRY DATE .
LASTS FOR LIFE . It is the four-wheel

license that is restricted.
3) For those with both a car and motorbike

license overseas: Here you can simply
exchange your license for a Vietnamese
version. However, unless youre genuinely
going to drive a car in Vietnam, only
exchange your motorbike license. As
mentioned above, the two-wheel license
has no expiry date. Add a four-wheel
license to it, and you have to renew
everything once your visa and resident
card expires.
7 S TEPS TO G ETTING Y OUR L ICENSE

1) Get six 3x4cm passport photos taken
and have all your documents photocopied

passport, resident card or visa and
driving license.
2) Then head to the D EPARTMENT OF

T RANSPORT (63 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, HCMC /
16 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Hanoi). If you

have to take a driving test, you do not
make your application here. All you do is
pick up an application form.
3) Get your overseas driving license
notarised and translated into Vietnamese.

In Ho Chi Minh City go to the N OTARY
O FFICE (97 Pasteur, Q1), in Hanoi go to
C ONG TY D ICH T HUAT V AN V U (39/11 Hai
Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem). It takes 24 hours.
4) While youre waiting for your overseas
license, its a good idea to get your

passport and (if you have it) resident
card notarised. These dont need to be
translated. This is done at the P EOPLE S
C OMMITTEE B UILDING in Saigon (47 Le
Duan, Q1) or the N OTARY O FFICE (310 Ba
Trieu, Hai Ba Trung) in Hanoi.
5) The next step is to have a health check.
For Hanoi weve received conflicting

information some say you need a
health check at a hospital on Ly Thuong
Kiet, others say you dont. So best to
ask when you make your application. In
Saigon this means going to yet another
D EPARTMENT OF T RANSPORT office (252
Ly Chinh Thang, Q3, HCMC). The health
test takes five minutes. If you only need
to change your overseas license for a
temporary Vietnamese version, then this
can be done at the same office. For the
equivalent in Hanoi, go to the C AO B A
Q UAT office (see above).
6) Armed with all your notarised paperwork

and health certificate, the penultimate
step in Ho Chi Minh City is to go to the
D RIVING T EST C ENTRE (111 Tan Son Nhi,
Tan Phu). This is where you make your test
application. The test was at another centre
71/3/38 Che Lan Vien, Tan Phu, HCMC.
In Hanoi, the application can be made at
the C ENTRE FOR A UTOMOTIVE T RAINING AND
M ECHANISM (83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem). The test centre in downtown Hanoi
is at 1 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da.
7) Wait a month and receive your new,

shiny license.
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HAI PHONG
Let Yourself Go
Duong Giap makes art for the masses
ailing from Hai Phong, 21-yearold Culture and Tourism student

Duong Giap has been cultivating
a sideline one that aims to
influence the clichd scenes that his tourist
charges will come to Vietnam to see.
The Let Yourself Go project puts everyday
people on skateboards. Once a central part
of the series, now the skateboard functions
more as a symbol.
When Giap noticed that the characters
he was drawing were the workers and the
police, the people who must shoulder the
burden of work, which [stops them from]
liberating themselves and enjoying life, a
new focus emerged.
The skateboard, often seen as a frivolous
thing by workaday society, is used here as
an ecstatic tool, a way to recontextualise
the city streets that are usually working

places for his day labourers. Its not for the
spoiled child on the street, he says, its for
everyone. So dont hesitate to get your skate
on and enjoy it.
Its a cry often heard by optimistic 21-yearolds, but thats whats at the root of skate
culture: a fantastic, weightless experience of
the everyday, of the common objects on your
way. And thats what Giap hopes more of
Vietnams millions are able to appreciate.
Riffing down the projects philosophy,
Giap sums it up: Overcome the barriers of
the mind, enjoy life, do what you want but
couldnt do before, dont be worried about
the appreciation of others, please yourself
first! Ed Weinberg
For more of Duong Giaps artwork, check
behance.net/duonggiap
On the Margins
Banh Mi 37
Interview with Nguyen Thi Thanh Tri, 44. Words and
photos by Glen Riley. Translation by Kim Vy
Who is the owner? Is it a family run

business?
Why do you only serve meatball

banh mi?
Im the owner [said the woman serving up

the tasty meatball banh mi]. Its my own
business, not my familys.
When I got married and moved here, there

were many banh mi stands around serving
the same ham and pork style sandwiches. I
wanted to do something new and different
with a hope that Id lure new customers to my
banh mi stand. Thats exactly what happened.
Why did you choose this location?

Its near my husband familys house, where I
currently live.
Why do you think your banh mi are

so popular?
I dont know, I guess they just love my banh
mi! Maybe its the style and seasoning I use to
cook the meat.
When and who opened the banh mi

stand?
I opened the shop by myself, 16 or 17 years
ago.
When are you open? Why not all

day?
I usually stay open from 4pm to 8.30pm,
sometimes until 9pm. Im not able to stay
open all day because I run the stand by
myself. I need time to get everything ready
earlier in the day.
What changes have you seen in the

neighbourhood around your stand?
No, when I was 17 I had a stand that served

your average banh mi with ham and sliced
pork. When I got married and moved to this
neighbourhood with the husband I opened
this stand.
It keeps getting busier and busier. There are

more shops and its overcrowded. I remember
when the business first started there were
not many shops and people could park their
bikes wherever they wanted to buy my banh
mi. But now you saw it. I had to ask you
guys to make space in the alley and avoid
blocking the adjacent businesses.
How many sandwiches do you sell

in a day?
How long do you intend to stay

open? Do you have a future plan?
On average I sell between 350 and 400 per

night.
I think Ill stay open as long as Im allowed

to use the sidewalk. Future plans? Not really.
Is this your first food business?
I used to dream of having a serious banh mi

place but the rent in this area is too expensive
and I cant afford it.
Do you think there is a future in

street food in Saigon?
Yes. Vietnamese people love street food. It
has become part of Vietnamese food culture. I
think it will continue to flourish in the future.
Have the chain restaurants affected

your business?
No, I dont think so. Their food is always
more expensive compared to my banh mi. Plus
my service is quick, so you dont have to wait
as long as you do at KFC or Lotteria.
Banh Mi 37 is at 37 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Ho Chi
Minh City
briefings
Charity
The
Celebrity
Chefs
of
the
Month
This months spotlight is on the popular fundraising tactic of celebrity

chef dinners and one amazing organisation theyre working to support
Photos by Kyle Phanroy
he concept of the celebrity chef is

not a trend thats slowing down.
Leveraging amazing food in aid
of worthy causes makes sense
a chance to bring together the publics
desire for something high-end, and exploit
their willingness to part with cash in order
to experience it.
In Ho Chi Minh City last month it was
KIDS, a charity focused on the care and
rehabilitation of street children, that used
their pulling power to make a difference.
Alain Caron, Jacques Pourcel and Sakal
Phoeung were the celebrity chefs. Taking
place at Gils Braults Trois Gourmand in
Thao Dien, the Stars for Stars charity dinner
was a US$125 (VND2.68 million) per head
event billed as a gastronomic and wine
pairing evening with a unique menu cooked by
international Michelin chefs. It raised over
US$3,500 (VND75 million).
The Stars
Word caught up with the trio of Frenchmen
the night before the event, at Sofitel Plazas
LOlivier restaurant, where Sakal is
Executive Chef. Alain described for us the
connection he has with KIDS founder Julius
Jasper and says witnessing the street
children here firsthand was heart-breaking,
especially as a father himself. He calls what
Julius has done over the last 15 years here
amazing, including the building of five

separate shelters for girls and boys all
fully staffed and maintained. He remembers
the first dinner back in Holland, where they
managed to raise 36,000 (VND938 million)
in one night. It was from there that he saw
the possibilities.
Jacques also has a history with the
organisation, and with its founder. He has
his life, I have my life, Jacques says, but
over 16 years of friendship, sometimes they
interweave.
Jacques brings a Michelin star to the
table, direct from his flagship Les Jardin Des
Sens he runs with his twin brother Laurent
in Montpellier, while Sakal was one of the
featured chefs in the local version of the
long running Japanese TV show Iron Chef,
which aired here last year. He says that
guys like himself and Jacques are part of a
new generation, those who prefer to share
what they have learnt rather than only stay
France.
All three are no strangers to the media,
and being part of an event like Stars for the
Stars is something theyre used to the
week after this interview they were all
heading off to China for a similar event.
Suffice it to say I could spend another
page talking about the food, but what we ate
was French cuisine at its peak, and worthy
of anticipation. After getting past a crispy
sea bass, a delicious lobster bisque and a

luxurious foie gras, we had a wagyu beef
dish that had me recalling the very best
parts of every roast Id ever eaten in every
single mouthful. This celebrity chef dinner
thing could work!
The Cause
KIDS has been around in Vietnam since
Julian first visited here 15 years ago. As
a new father at the time, the fate of the
street children greatly affected him. At first
through the Womens Charity Association
(WOCA) and his familys business, Studio
Bazaar, Julius bore the costs of KIDS first safe
house, called Sunflower House. That was
in 1998.
Since then there have been four more safe
houses set up, and the charity has maintained
a simple mission the accommodation,
care and education of street children in
Vietnam. Today 120 children are housed,
and there is still close collaboration between
the two charities with WOCA providing
supervisors to work with the children in
each shelter. From there the children receive
adequate food and medical attention, are
loved, go to school and receive extra lessons
in English and computer science. Its Juliuss
great hope that KIDS will be able to give all
the children the same advantages and love
hes given his own children.
And to do that, theyll need your help.
Jon Aspin
To support KIDS, go to kidsinvietnam.org
Sports Digest
IN BRIEF
Suds and Smiles at

Beer Mile
Hot on the heels of the World
Beer Mile Championships in
Austin, Texas in November,
Word and Runclub.vn are
gauging interest in sponsoring
a similar event. Have you
got the stones to chug four
brewskis and run a mile in
humid Ho Chi Minh City?
Send your thoughts to harry@
wordvietnam.com.
Shuttler Makes it to
Third Round at US Event
Young player Pham Cao
Cuong lost to seed No. 2
Misha Zilberman of Israel in
the third round of the 2014
K&D Graphics/Yonex Grand Prix
Badminton Championships at the
Orange County Badminton
Club in Califonia, according
to Vietnam News. 18-yearold Cuong, Vietnams sole
representative, was defeated
2-0 (21-19, 21-17). Earlier,
Cuong, ranked No. 282 in the
world, beat Zulhelmi Zulkiffli
of Malaysia, world No. 348,
2-0 (22-20, 21-19) in the second
round of the US$50,000 event.
Weightlifter Sets New

National Record
Weightlifter Vuong Thi Huyen
of Hanoi broke the national
record in the women's 48-kg
category at the ongoing
National Sports Games in the
northern province of Nam
Dinh, according to Vietnam
News. The 22-year-old player
raised 181kg in total. Do Thi
Thu Hoai of the Ministry of
Public Security and Duong Thi
Bich Tuyen of Soc Trang were
the runners-up with 179kg and
174kg respectively. Around
300 athletes from 33 teams
competed at the games.
Hiroshima Draws Dong

Nai in Bien Hoa
A friendly match between
J-League Division 1 team
Sanfrecce Hiroshima and
Dong Nai FC ended in a 2-2
draw in Bien Hoa last month.
Pham Ngoc Quoc and Huynh
Kesley Alves scored for Dong
Nai. Dong Nai will be playing
in the V-League from this
month.
SPORTS DIGEST
NATIONAL
The Obstacle
Course
Dare to take on some weird obstacles. Words by Harry Hodge
bstacles are all around

us. They could be at
work, at home, on the
roads outside. Its how
we go about overcoming them
that makes things interesting.
The aptly-named Dragon
Adventure Race Events (DARE)
Vietnam group is staging
Ho Chi Minh Citys first
obstacle course competition,
in the vein of North American
favourites such as the Tough
Mudder, Spartan Race and
others. These all feature the
conventional running coupled
with overcoming mud pits, rope
ladders, jumping through tires

and the like.
Co-founder Onslo Carrington
told Word that he feels that
Vietnamese athletes are ready
for something different to
challenge them. (Its about)
taking them to that edge of
discomfort and stepping out of
their zone, he says.
Its an interesting time to
be in Ho Chi Minh City. For
those of us that moved here a
few years ago, there were no
Zumba classes or crossfit gyms
or night runs where people get
hosed with fluorescence and
DJs perform afterwards. And

all of a sudden, it seems theyre
all happening within months of
each other.
But Onslo isnt worried the
market is being overwhelmed
by too many new fitness
twists. Obviously theres a
possibility of saturation (in
the marketplace), he says.
But these wouldnt be coming
online if there wasnt an
appetite for them.
While he was careful not to
reveal too much ahead of the
event, one factor that can help
with the obstacle course is
Nguyen Garnering
Attention Following MLS
Selection
Former V-League star Lee
Nguyen capped a strong
season in North Americas
Major League Soccer (MLS) by
being named to the leagues
Top XI players as a member of
the New England Revolution,
according to the teams Twitter
account in December. He
joined the likes of French star
Thierry Henry of the New York
Red Bulls, American Landon
Donovan and Robbie Keane
of the Los Angeles Galaxy.
Nguyen is an American who
hails from Texas, but spent
time with Becamex Binh
Duong and Hoang Anh Gia Lai
of the V-League between 2009
and 2012. Numerous European
clubs have been linked to
Nguyen, with Englands
Southampton
and Fulham
squads
among
those
expressing
interest.
Photos by Dave Lemke / courtesy of Dragon Adventure Race Events
teamwork. A lot of people are

doing it with friends, and theyll
be helping each other out to do
it, Onslo says.
With two days worth of
racing set aside in April, one
day is likely to be for the
general public with another
for corporate clients. Onslo
and his associates are also
contemplating maintaining
points and standings so as to
set up an ongoing competition
that would lead to more
competitions and, of course,
repeat business from the
participants.
Onslo predicts that novices

will be able to do one loop
of a course, while more
seasoned athletes will be able
to do a second or possibly
third repetition to increase the
challenge. With the preliminary
events and team-building
sessions DARE has held, he is
confident Aprils competition
will be a big hit.
People really took to it, they
had a good time, he says. We
found out people want to be
pushed a bit.
For more information, visit
darevietnam.com
Official Calls for Probe

after AFF Cup Debacle
Vietnam Football Federation
(VFF) will request concerned
agencies to investigate
Vietnams incomprehensible
4-2 defeat to Malaysia at the AFF
Suzuki Cup 2014 semi-final, its
chairman said following the loss.
VFF chairman Le Hung
Dung told Thanh Nien in an
interview after the match ended
at My Dinh Stadium in Hanoi
that he was shocked by the
performance, citing the teams
outstanding performance in the
first leg of the game in Kuala
Lumpur, where Vietnam beat
hosts Malaysia 2-1 in a similarly
controversial affair.
Dung, who is Chairman of
Eximbank, told Tuoi Tre he felt
like he was being punched
watching the game at My Dinh.
Defensive lapses and a sluggish
all-around effort have raised
suspicions about what happened
between the two matches.
Malaysian Youth and Sports
Minister Khairy Jamaluddin
offered his apology to Vietnam,
saying on his Facebook page
that the violent fans do not
represent Malaysia.
Wrestler Reprimanded
for Rushing Ref
V-League Set to Kick

Off with 14 Teams
A Vietnamese wrestler has been

suspended after he physically
attacked a referee while
watching a match from the
stands at the 2014 National Sports
Festival in the northern province
of Thai Binh in early December,
according to Tuoi Tre.
Spectator Le Duy Hoi, a
wrestler from Team Can Tho City,
suddenly entered the competition
mat and began to beat Nguyen
Dinh Hung, the referee of the
mens 66kg match between Bui
Tuan Anh of Hanoi and Ngo The
Sao of the army team.
Hoi, who competes for Can
Tho on loan from the army team,
argued that the referee judged
unfairly against Sao, his former
teammate.
Just before the attack, Nghiem
Xuan Thai head of the wrestling
department of the army
publicly protested against Hung
during the same match because of
his purported unfair judgment.
After the incident, the
organising board met and
decided to suspend both Hoi
from competing and Thai from
coaching during the tournament.
Vietnam Professional
Federation (VPF) held a
meeting with leaders of
football teams and a drawing
ceremony in Hanoi in
December to announce the
main competition schedule
for the V-League, according to
Vietnamnet.vn.
Within the framework of
2015 National Cup, a football
match between Binh Duong
and Hai Phong will open the
2015 football season, which
will take place at Binh Duong
sport stadium.
14 domestic football teams
will participate in the V-League,
including Binh Duong, Dong
Nai, Dong Tam Long An,
Hanoi T&T, Hoang Anh Gia
Lai, Quang Nam, Khanh Hoa,
SHB Danang, Song Lam Nghe
An, Than Quang Ninh, Thanh
Hoa, Dong Thap, Hai
Phong and Can
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to do list
08,17,22
Ho Chi Minh City

JAN.
GET HEALTHY WITH CHIARA!

So New Years has came and went and
with it your get-fit resolve. Certified health
coach and yoga teacher Chiara Squinzi is
here to give you give you some practical
insight with her New Year Resolution Series,
talks on how to eat right and get back into
that pre-Christmas shape. On Jan. 8, shell
be talking calorie calculation, meal planning
and fitness ideas at Cyril and You Sport
Center. On Jan. 17, shell be giving some
tips on how to reduce your meat-eating at
KAY Home Cooked Vegan Cuisine, with
complimentary samples of vegan food. And
on Jan. 22, shes coming to The Loop to help
you shake sugar and give you a healthy
dinner to show you how good the future will
be without it.
Chiaras New Year Resolution Series is Jan. 8,
7pm to 8.15pm at Cyril and You Sport Center,
49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, HCMC; Jan. 17, 4pm
to 5.15pm at KAY Home Cooked Vegan Cuisine,
Hem 84 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, HCMC; and
Jan. 22, 6.30pm to 8.15pm at The Loop, 49 Thao
Dien, Q2, HCMC. All talks are VND190,000,
RSVP at chiara@laholista.com
09
UNTIL FRIDAY
15&29
JAN.
CANVAS & WINE

SMALL THINGS EXHIBITION
Still running at VinGallery is the annual
Small Things exhibition. Presenting the works
of over 15 local and international artists at
affordable prices for the holiday season,
the exhibition gives original art a space
to be enjoyed, as well as the opportunity
for gift buyers to get creative. Get along
to VinGallery to see their series of small
paintings and handmade prints. Whilst your
there, check out our new range of books,
poster, calendars and canvas prints.
VinGallery is at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2 see their
site vingallery.com
If you think wine opens up your creative

neural pathways, allowing your genius ideas
to flow from brush to canvas more readily,
youre not alone. VinSpace has been running
Canvas & Wine nights for some time now, and
theyre proving popular amongst painters
and illustrators of all levels. Each session has
its own unique focus, where an instructor
will take you and your friends through a
specific technique, be it ink portrait (the
15th) or collage (the 29th), always preceded
by a wine tasting to open up said neural
pathways. Your own masterpiece could only
be a glass of Shiraz away!
Canvas & Wine happens both nights from
6.30pm to 9pm at VinSpace, 6 Le Van Mien, Q2,
HCMC vin-space.com
23
16&17
FRIDAY
JAN.
CONTEMPORARY JAZZ
FUSION WORKSHOP
Mylene Riou veteran of
New Yorks Alvin Ailey School
and the Rick Odums Jazz
Ballet of Paris is coming to
Dancenter to share her classic
jazz technique and free energycentric contemporary dance
style. For two days shell be
demoing this fusion style to
all comers, as well as focusing
on choreography and other
theatric elements.
Mylene Rious Contemporary
Jazz Fusion Workshop is at
Dancenter 53 Nguyen Dang
Giai, Q2 on Jan. 16, 7pm
to 9pm, and Jan. 17, 9am to
11am. Fees are VND100,000
for professional dancers and
performing arts students,
VND250,000 for the rest of us. For
more info click on dancenter.vn
BUDDHA BAR TURNS 10

If theres ever a night to put
into your diary, at Word we
are sure it is this one. Thao
Dien institution Buddha Bar
and Grill is hosting its 10th
Anniversary Party on Friday
Jan. 23, an event we reckon is
one that will be remembered.
Based in an area of Saigon
where establishments change
both name and hands on a
regular basis, a decade of
bar service is a landmark
achievement, making Buddha
Bar the oldest and most

established of all the bars in
District 2.
To give the party some
adrenal kicking spice, live band
Hoochie Cu Chi will be on hand
with their Jimmy Hendrix,
fish sauce-inspired Nuoc Mam
Experience.
As well as a wild wigs
competition for the craziest
hair wigged punters arriving
before 9pm will receive a free
beer or glass of wine drinks
will be knocked down to silly

prices. Pay VND100,000 for 10
beers before 10pm, and buy 10
shots to get five free all night.
Finger food, free Jager trains
and a raffle (get a free ticket
with every VND100,000 spend)
make up the entertainment
mix. Ah, maybe not. Punters
are required, too. Which means
youre going, right? We damn
well hope so.
Buddha Bar is at 7 Thao Dien,
Q2, HCMC
to do list
Ho Chi Minh City
PRIME MOVER
23
UNTIL FRIDAY
SAN ART SESSION 7 OPEN CALL

San Art Laboratory, Vietnams first
studio/residency programme,
is inviting applications for its
next session, Jun. 1 to Dec. 1
of the coming year. The three
artists chosen will follow the
three whove just entered
residence Hanoian artist Ta
Minh Duc, Tran Tuan from Hue
Emily Navarra
SAVE
Orchestrator of Standpoint Theories, Founder of Melting Pot

gemdartiste32.wix.com/standpointtheoriesvn
Trained in modern dance, Emilys been uniting niche arts scenes

in Saigon since she moved here three years ago. Starting with the
Saigon Outcast arts-and-music fest Melting Pot to the current
Standpoint Theories, her projects have been a flashpoint for
Saigons current arts renaissance
Show Im really excited

about
Is it strange to say my own?
Standpoint Theories featuring Le
Cat Trong Ly
and Orawan Arunrak from

Bangkok. Chosen artists will
receive accommodation, studio,
production funds of US$1,000
and a small living allowance.
For more information, head to
san-art.org/education/how-toapply-for-san-art-lab-session-7.
Applications close Jan. 23
The
Date
Peace Piece by Bill Evans
I wish this band would

come to town
Portugal the Man
Best night out last month How is the scene going in

A night alone on the river to
general?
people watch
Best meal from last

month
Theres a great little Indian
place on Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7
Isa Ca Ri An Do the guy
is doing it right by catering
to the locals; quick takeaway
style or you can sit down,
enjoy the butter chicken and a
cheap Saigon Red
Thing I posted on
Facebook that got the
most likes
My youngest sister getting
engaged
Funniest Youtube clip of

the month
Totino Boy! by Tim and Eric
Song I cant get out of

my head
My excitement is that it continues to flourish but my

concern is that no artist should
perform for free (beer exchange
or its good for experience
doesnt count)
The best secret in town

is
Ms. Thaos crab curry on the
corner of Hoang Dieu and Vinh
Khanh in Q4
Where I go when I go out

on my own
Any place with live music
If my older-yet-still-cool
Mom came to town, I
would take her to
The airport to catch a flight to
Danang. Shes a small town
gal so I think shed enjoy
the central part of the country
more
15-18
FEB.
TA LAI TET HOLIDAY CAMP

Even the most model parents
among us need some downtime
from the kids. We love em, but
handing them over to some
other responsible adults for a
few days can be bliss. Ta Lai
Adventure are just the men and
women for the job, because they
have adventure camps running
at Ta Lai Long House during the
official Tet Holiday.
For VND6.9 million per child

(inclusive) your little angels can
run riot at a ratio of five kids to
every one adult and get in some
much needed biking, kayaking,
swimming and trekking. An
early bird discount applies if you
book this month.
Contact Tai Lai Adventure on
0974 160827 or email them at info@
talai-adventure.vn
20-22
MAR.
18&19
APR.
VIETNAM VICTORY CHALLENGE

Mountain bike riders, your
time has come. The first
international-calibre stage race
to be held in Vietnam is hitting
Dalat this March. Expected
to become an annual event,
and draw riders from around
Southeast Asia, courses will
consist of the mountainous
roads and challenging trails
found all over the beautifully
scenic highland region.
Registration is priced at US$245
(VND5.3 million) and can be

done online. For those newer
to the sport, there will be a fun
ride option, which is still timed
as a race.
As always with these types
of events, a portion of the
proceeds from the event will go
to benefit local schools in the
area. Get on your bikes people,
this sounds pretty awesome.
For more detail visit
vietnamvictorychallenge.com
TA LAI TROPHY, 2ND EDITION

Adventure lovers and extreme
sports calendar models can
start gearing up now for the
second edition of the Ta Lai
Trophy. This year theyre calling
out for more mixed and ladies
teams, and promise more
colour, more sweat, more dust
and more fun in the jungle at
Cat Tien National Park. The
format remains the same,

with teams of two completing
either an extreme (6-8 hour)
or challenge (4-6 hour) course
by bike, kayak and by foot.
Dont leave your preparations
too late, registrations are open
now!
To register go to talaiadventure.vn
just in
Ho Chi Minh City
EUROCHAM RELEASES TRADE

WHITEBOOK
SKY LIGHT
Due to open in February, Word Vietnam
got a sneak preview of Sky Light, the
40-something-floor bar that will not only be
the highest in Nha Trang, but the highest
beachside bar in Vietnam.
Located on the top of the Havana Tower,
and next to InterContinental and Sheraton Nha
Trang, the bar will feature a huge, lighthousestyle skylight in its middle as well as seethrough walkways allowing guests to have a
direct downward view of the buildings below.

The people behind this venture are
determined to take advantage of the
phenomenal 360-degree views to make Sky
Light a destination. Besides top-end bar
fittings and dcor, and a restaurant, they will
be flying in well-known DJs and other artists
to provide a certain edge to Nha Trang that has
yet to exist.
Watch this space!
Concerned about transparency,

accountability or legal framework
implementation? We didnt think so
either, but in case you are, the European
Chamber of Commerce has released a white
paper highlighting concerns for European
businesses operating in Vietnam. Apparently
its important to be aware of the new trade
laws affecting such things. Nicola Connoly
from Adecco Vietnam knows a bit about all
of them and advised the government in its
recent upgrade to the labour code.
Our 7th edition Whitebook is handed
over at a time when Vietnam and Europe
are making strong efforts to increase trade,
she writes. As with previous editions, we
hope that the government will find it useful
when identifying and addressing current
issues and helping Vietnam become a more
attractive destination for foreign investment.
For further information, please contact Ms Nhien
Tran at Adecco nhien.tran@adecco.com.vn
North End Delis Italian Job. Its spicy and damned tasty, too
TO INFINITY AND BEYOND
THE NORTH END DELI (FINALLY!)
Whenever we at Word hear the term infinity

pool, we get excited. Could be something
to do with that early 1990s Elle MacPherson
swimsuit calendar we never threw away.
Anyway, Pullman Danang Beach Resort
has unveiled the newly-refurbished Azure
Beach Lounge a stylish venue overlooking
the turquoise waters of the East Sea and the
infinity-edged swimming pool. Its got three
distinct seating areas, including an open-air
bar serving cool cocktails you can Shake
Your Own Way, and an outdoor terrace
overlooking the sand and sea. Sound good?
Slow down, theres also a new menu fusing
Vietnams light and aromatic culinary arts
with modern, molecular techniques. See you at
the pool.
Check out pullman-danang.com for more
Okay, so we love awesome deli sandwiches

and despite being surrounded by
awesome sandwiches there is a type of
sandwich we miss very much. And North
End Deli is finally filling that void.
What goes on a North End Special? Why,
mortadella, salami, prosciutto, provolone,
roasted peppers, tomato, oil and vinegar,
of course. What if youre a veggie? Glad
you asked you get heaps of goat cheese,
eggplant, zucchini, onion, leak, roasted
peppers, oil and vinegar in your baguette.
We are getting hungry right now. Writing
4,000 word odes to the dignity of oil and
vinegar as condiments does that to us firstperson plural types.
The North End Deli is at 80C Xuan Thuy, Q2,
HCMC (08) 3744 2099
DONT MISS THE SWISS

Craving a unique food experience in the
city? Swiss House has authentic BavarianFrench-Italian inspired dishes coming out
of its clogs. Fondue, raclette, veal, schnitzel
and rosti are too rare in this city, and Swiss
House is aiming at changing that. The chef
imports all his ingredients and makes all the
dishes himself, so it truly is Swiss-made.
Swiss House is on 54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Pick
holes in their website at swisshousesaigon.com
The Month in The Observatory
DJ Vadim
ith a recent move to District

4, The Observatory has been
throwing off the chains of
downtown respectability in an
unprecedented way. As Loud Minoritys
Damian Kilroy wrote in a classy Facebook
shout-out:
FRIDAY 2ND
Local Suicide
Local Suicide are a DJ duo
based out of Berlin who
specialise in fusing the
electronic sounds of the world
with the soul of their own
home locales expect some
house, electro-swing and
techno. VND100,000 entry.
SATURDAY 3RD
Eclectic Aesthetic &
Optimist Club with Max
Cleo
Eclectic Aesthetic & Optimist
Club residents Nic Ford, Dan
Lo and Hibiya Line will bring
their explosive cocktail of
afrobeat, disco, house and
techno to the dance floor
this month featuring rising
local female DJ talent Max
Cleo. VND50,000 entry.
FRIDAY 9TH
Local Flavour
An all-star lineup of local DJs
New Observatory is ace. Respect to Dan

Bi Mong for bringing the best DJs and the
best dance music to one of the coolest spots in
HCMC.
No one else is doing it. John Morales and
Alton Miller playing the best stuff I've heard
in a long time, and all in the same spot for
Starchild, Dan Lo, Joey T,

Elia, Nic Ford, Hibiya Line, DJ
Ouch! will spin a select mix of
groove, house and harder stuff
all night long. VND50,000 entry.
SATURDAY 10TH
DJ Vadim
iLL Beats Saigon is holding their first event at The
Observatory with legendary
hip hop producer and DJ,
Ninja Tunes recording artist
DJ Vadim. VND150,000 entry,
VND100,000 for students,
with ID.
FRIDAY 16TH
Toby Tobias
Highly acclaimed DJ and
producer Toby Tobias returns
to play at the new Observatory
for the first time. On his last
visit, he tore up the dance floor
with his rare and select fusion
of disco, house and techno.
Expect more of that. Support
by Hibiya Line and Dan Lo,
VND150,000 entry.
200k???? I don't know how that sh*t works

but its insanely good. DJs in Saigon should
be there taking lessons.
All parties take place at the new late night
hub of 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC,
starting around 10pm
SATURDAY 17TH
Cheezy Gangztaz
This much-loved dapper DJ
duo is back to spin their eclectic mix of hip hop, trip hop,
soul, funk and more all in
their jazzy, wacky style.
FRIDAY 23RD
Liviu Groza
Berlin-based DJ and producer
Liviu Groza is coming to town
for the first time to lay down
his hypnotic approach to techno and house. Serious electronic stuff. Support by Nic
Ford and Elia, VND100,000.
SATURDAY 24TH
San Soda and Gratts
San Soda responsible for
sending the old Observatory
into one of its wildest states
of abandon last April is returning to town with another
powerhouse of the European
underground house scene,
Gratts. Expect an immersion
into the apex of the genres

vast possibilities. Support
by Hibiya Line, VND150,000
entry.
FRIDAY 30TH
Pablo Valentino
Pablo Valentino, co-founder
of FACES and MCDE record
labels, is coming to town to
lay down his massive mix of
eclectic sounds from swing
and hip hop to house, techno
and more. VND150,000 entry.
SATURDAY 31ST
Cliche Records Night
The Clich team Ocean Lam
and Amadei is flying over
from Hong Kong to reunite
with their Saigon-based counterpart and Observatory resident Hibiya Line. Get a taste
of the sounds emerging from
one of Asias foremost underground labels. VND100,000
entry.
just in
Ho Chi Minh City
BISTRO MY BANH MI
WELCOME TO CARAVELLE 2.0
FASHION4FREEDOMS HORSE
ANNIVERSARY
Fashion4Freedom is a social enterprise
making very cool shoes by applying their
clever eye for marketability to local craft.
They just won Vietnam Supply Chains
award for small-to-medium-sized enterprise
of the year. But more topically, they make
very cool shoes and theyve just come out
with another.
Country director Rachael Carson says,
Were occasionally asked if F4F has a new
seasonal collection of shoes. We usually
respond by reminding folks that dragons
have been in style for over 700 years, why
would we need something new?
But they did. Taking note of the eastern
traditions which inspire much of our
designs, she says, we decided to celebrate
F4Fs fifth year of development by reigning
in the Year of the Horse. Keep an eye out for
the Tiger in 2015!
Available at The House of Saigon 16-18-20
Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, HCMC. Find out more at
fashion4freedom.com
Although theyve been clever enough

about it that you may not have noticed, big
changes have been on at Caravelle. And 2015
brings an end to Phase 1 of those changes
and the return of Saigons favourite High Tea
spot Caf de lOpera (previously The Lobby
Lounge) and Vietnams first Champagne
Corner, in partnership with Moet Hennessey.
Check out Caravelles changes at
caravellehotel.com
OLD SAIGON MONOPOLY

Do you have what it takes to survive in the
cutthroat world of nineteenth century real
estate? the box reads. This is 1880 Saigon
Monopoly, a Monopoly-styled board game
with a place-specific feel, by the makers of
the Saigon Pub Crawl game. Community
Chest fines are meted out through cultural
experiences, like having to pay 15 Piastres
(old-time currency) to attend the theatre
in Cholon. Along the way youll learn
something, and maybe even become the
Real Estate King of Saigon way before that
guy who built the Fine Arts Museum. Hua
Bon Hoa yes, that was his name.
For more info or to pick up your own copy,
email 1880saigonmonopoly@gmail.com
SHRINE BAR OPENS ITS DOORS

We generally dont like mixing our drinking
with religion, but apparently its okay now
because the newest bar on the Ton That
Thiep strip, Shrine, has created a templelike atmosphere for dining and drinking.
Inspired by Bantay Srei, an ancient temple
of women from the time of the Angkor
kingdom, the bar serves up cocktails in
teapots to ladies in groups of four along with

a 40 percent discount during ladies-first
happy hour between 5pm and 8pm every
night! Throw in some free finger food for
everyone and wed say thats a pretty sacred
experience indeed. Ommmmmm.
Shrine is at 64 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Check em
out at shrinebarsaigon.com
Right up from the main post office, Bistro

My Banh My is hoping to add a little variety
to the citys banh mi options. Think an afterdark charcoal broiler menu featuring broiled
strip loin steaks, BBQ chicken, German
bratwurst, boiled parsley potatoes and
sauerkraut. But the focus is on the banh mi
and theyre exploring avenues rarely taken
by your typical cart vendor. We tried it. Its
good too. And apparently Bobby Chinn is
involved.
My Banh Mi is on 57 Nguyen Du, Q1,
HCMC (08) 3827 2145
THE NEXT STEP IN CONSCIOUS TOURISM

GEM CENTERS ROOFTOP RESTOBAR AND REALLY,
EVERYTHING
The GEM Center opened in late
November at the northern end
of District 1, and in the monthand-change its been around its
blown us away. Put together
by the team behind the two
leading wedding spaces in Ho
Chi Minh City Sinh Doi and
White Palace its the most
impressive building weve seen
in a long time. As our chief
editor said on coming back from
a pre-Christmas five-course
meal, Its a playground.

Its all wood and slick design,
with a recently opened roof
space called The LOG, a weird
and beautiful tree house of a
space. It also has 7,200sqm of
event space, making it the largest
event space in District 1. Watch
out shaky venues, GEM Center
is about to cannibalise you.
GEM Center is at 8 Nguyen Binh
Khiem, Q1, HCMC gemcenter.
com.vn
With Airbnb and Couchsurfing

changing travel accommodation
for the smarter, it was about
time someone catered to
travellers who want to do more
than just experience a creative
stay. Enter Withlocals a clever
new app thats connecting
travellers with locals all around
Southeast Asia who will invite
them to family dinners, take
them out on non-touristy tours
and do other fun stuff with

them. Founded May 2013 in the
Netherlands, they already have
a decent network of friendly
locals in Vietnam 148 offering
experiences of different stripes
and in eight other countries
in Asia.
To check out Withlocals, visit
withlocals.com where you can
also download apps for Apple or
Android phones
SAIGONOUTCAST.COM
Saigon Outcast isnt a brand,
but it should be. Where else
can the citys graffiti artists,
skate kids, indie film addicts,
music lovers and general fans of
eccentricity all get together and
indulge their obsessions? Not
many places, and its a need.
Recognising that, Saigon
Outcast has started a new
blog with street art and music

updates. All of Outcasts
greatest hits are there to
reminisce on including
picture galleries of vanished
wall masterpieces and parties
past but the future promises
some inventive things.
Check out SaigonOutcast.com at
saigonoutcast.com
overscene ho chi minh
comic con
Photos by Francis Xavier

Saigon's first comic con was a success,
with over 9,000 attendees and lots and
lots of Doraemons
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look
jagwar ma

The final event of Saigon International
Music Week brought down the house at
Cargo Bar
loreto christmas
market
Photos provided by Loreto

Christmas came early at Cargo, courtesy
of charity powerhouse Loreto and a horde
of kind hearts
an phu pool
beautifying
Photos by Ed Weinberg
Saigon Outcast took half of the proceeds
from Melting Pot 6 to repair the walls of a
nearby public pool, then add some colour
to do list
03
hanoi
SATURDAY
MIDNIGHT DISCO
Lotus Disco is one of the most talented
young Vietnamese DJ-slash-producers in the
land, and hell be putting his spin on disco
on Jan. 3 at CAMA ATK.
Expect him to drop his best record
collection at this one, in an attempt to turn
back the clock to when old school disco was
free, man, just like this event! Support comes
from Duy Tuan, the best hip-hop DJ in town.
Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm
10
09
FRIDAY
STRAIGHT NO MIXER
We couldnt have said it better than the press
release on this one: Bring Your Own Records,
Drink For Free! Friday Jan. 9 is CAMA ATKs
night supporting local record-collecting
habits. If you have some tunes you want to
play, take them down and get them on the

system. Seems like a pretty good formula
to us.
SATURDAY
SYSTEM RUFF
Do you like a little more booty in your
nights out? Are you all about that bass? Well
we may have found your nirvana.
On Jan. 10 System Ruff will be descending
on Madake with DJs Tung Tim, Duy Tuan
and Kap-01 from the Sub Elements crew
along with DJ Slo-Lo and Selecta Elpee from
Skank the Tank Sound System.
This mob of musical misfits and recalcitrant
selectaz are destined to F-up your night, in
the best way possible! Entrance is free, but
bring a straight up attitude and everything
will be fine. No treble.
Madake is at 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi.
The night will kick off around 10pm and go on late
BAMBOO AND SILK

Straight from performing in Paris as part of
the Vietnam Year in France, Bamboo and Silk,
a showcase of traditional Vietnamese folk
songs, will take to the stage at the LEspace
on Jan. 10 from 8pm.
The troupe will perform a range of
UNESCO-listed songs using traditional

instruments to recreate centuries-old
melodies. Tickets are available at LEspace
and cost VND160,000 (half price for students
and members).
LEspace is at 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
11 SUNDAY
HCC SUNDAY ROAST

I AM WAITING FOR YOU LAST SUMMER AND PROPORTIONS
Need some Russian electronic post-rock
rock in your life? If youre at CAMA ATK
on the Jan. 10 youre in the exact right
place. Russian post-rock act I am Waiting
For You Last Summer play atmospheric
tunes tinged by deep, progressive guitar
patches, thickened by steady industrial
electronics that pay homage to post-rock
16-31
JAN.
acts like Envy, God is an Astronaut and

Leaf. Okay
And supporting them are Hanoi heavy
metal scene veterans, Proportion, who
fans of contemporary screamo and posthardcore will find a lot to like about.
Warm your insides at the Hanoi Cooking

Centre with a traditional Sunday roast,
complete with all the trimmings. For
VND250,000 per person, tuck into plates of
roast lamb, potato, cauliflower cheese and
mint jelly before finishing with a sumptuous
golden syrup pudding with custard
(VND65,000). Available on Sunday Jan. 11
between 11.30 and 3pm.
For bookings email info@hanoicookingcentre.
com or call (04) 3715 0088. HCC is at 44 Chau
Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
AO DAI INSTALLATION
Goethe Institut is running one of its more
unusual exhibitions this month, thanks to
the work of artist Veronica Witte.
From Jan. 16 to Jan. 31, Witte will
present an elaborate multimedia space
installation using historic ao dais from the
collection of Thai Kim Lan. The ao dais will
be juxtaposed with video and elements
from daily life in Vietnam.
In the interview installation, eight
individuals from a 95-year-old court lady
of the empress to a 19-year-old student
talk with each other about the ao dais
without ever having met. Through this,
Witte develops fictional conversations
about preservation, time and the meaning
of ao dais.
The exhibition runs daily from 9am to
7pm and entrance is free of charge. On Jan.
17 at 7pm, there will also be a talk at the
Goethe Institut with Thai Kim Lan, Veronika
Witte, Tran Duc Anh Son and Tran Quang
Duc where they will discuss the importance

and the heritage of the historic garments
within Vietnamese culture and history.
The Goethe Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai
Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
to do list
24
hanoi
SATURDAY
ALL MONTH
JAZZ SINGER AT THE METROPOLE

LA CALCOTADA
Feast on traditionally prepared calots, a
type of Spanish green onion, as part of the
second Spanish Calotada Festival held in
Vietnam.
Hosted at tapas bar and bistro, La
Bicicleta, on Jan. 24 visitors can celebrate
this annual gastronomic event by savouring

tasty scallions prepared in the traditional
Catalan style: grilled, steamed, served with
romesco sauce and with a glass of red wine.
La Bicicleta is at 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Hanoi
New York based jazz diva Kristen Evelyn

Rossi is taking to the stage at the Sofitel
Legend Metropole this month to belt out a
repertoire of jazz, cabaret, burlesque and
Broadway-style tunes. Accompanied by the
hotels jazz ensemble, Rossi will command
the stage at Le Club every night between
Tuesday and Sunday from 8.45pm.
SAVE
The
Date
04
30
MOUTON ROTHSCHILD WINE DINNER
FRIDAY
POSITIVE MASS
This month, join Vietnams social cycling
movement as it heads for only the second
time to a new city Thanh Hoa. Unplanned
beyond a set meeting point and time, Positive
Mass takes you through the streets of different
cities each month, with the enjoyment of doing
it on two wheels. The next Positive Mass will
FEB.
take place on Jan. 30 at 8pm.

The Positive Mass meeting points are:
Hanoi: St Josephs Cathedral
HCMC: Cultural Labor Center
Thai Nguyen: City Museum
Son La: Viettel Building yard
Thanh Hoa: Hong Bang University
French Grill in the JW Marriott will be

hosting a Mouton Rothschild Wine Dinner on
Wednesday, Feb. 4 (VND 4,500,000++/person).
This event will see the iconic winery visit
Hanoi for a unique wine pairing dinner
thats sure to be high on the agenda of every
Hanoi A-lister worth their salt.
For more information or to book, call (04)
3833 5588 (Sales Center). JW Marriott is at
8 Do Duc Duc, Tu Liem, Hanoi or online at
jwmarriotthanoi.com
01
MAR.
HANOI DESIGN. NOW

After the success of the Open
Exhibition for Artists, Work
Room Four are hosting Hanoi
Design. Now to give all those
designers out there a chance
to show their talent while
networking with fellow
creatives.
With awards for best in show
and categories covering Interiors
to Product and Architecture

to Graphic, it will be a diverse
showcase of contemporary
design today in Vietnam.
To submit designs for entry
into the exhibition opening
on Mar. 22 go to workroomfour.
com. Guidelines and submission
details on the website. The
submission deadline is Mar. 1.
New Years resolution?
I promise myself that I will pay attention to the quality of air in

the New Year: I will provide 99.7 % clean air to my family and
loved ones!
just in
hanoi
UNIS RECEIVES AWARD
CHRONICLES OF A CORPORATE
HIPPY
Hanoi-based Australian writer and
photographer, Tim McMahon, has released
his first book, Chronicles of a Corporate Hippy,
which is now available on Amazon.
A raw, humorous and heart-felt account of
living and trying to cope in the 21st Century,
Tim believes he has survived it relatively
sane. The work covers some tough subjects
that are normally ignored due to fear such as
depression, death, suicide and breaking free
from the common and expected way of living
that we all seem to hold onto so tightly.
Born to a Christian family in the southern
suburbs of Sydney, Tim spent 15 years
working in corporate IT before walking
away from career, status and family. He has
since lived in Ecuador, Spain and Vietnam.
Through his spiritual odyssey he came
to realise some harsh realisations about
himself, life and his perception of the world
in which he used to live.
For more information on Chronicles, click on
corporate-hippy.com or do a search for the book
on amazon.com
BRIDGING A GAP
By the time you read this, Nhat Tan Bridge,
the 4km-long structure connecting the east
and west sides of the Red River, will have
been opened to traffic.
But when we went along to check in late
December, the workforce was still putting
on the lipstick. Conical-hatted women were
sweeping the highway and planting foliage
in the central reservation, while one of the
site managers explained that the bridge
would be opened on either Jan. 4 or Jan. 6.
He wasnt sure yet.
Linking the Tay Ho and Dong Anh
districts of Hanoi, the bridge will cut the
distance to Noi Bai Airport down to 12km. It
will also provide a vital communication link
between two previously disconnected parts
of the capital.
The opening of the bridge also known
as the Vietnam-Japan Friendship Bridge
has been timed to match the launch of
Noi Bai Airports new passenger terminal,
Terminal 2.
The United Nations International

School (UNIS) has been honoured with
the Governments Merit Award for its
contribution to development.
Headmaster Dr Chip Barder received the
award from deputy director general Pham
Chi Cuong of the Ministry of Education
and Trainings International Cooperation
Department during the Schools United
Nations Day celebrations.

Speaking to more than 2,000 students,
teachers and parents attending the event,
Mr Cuong acknowledged Dr Barders role
in advancing the schools commitment to
service and the development of education in
Vietnam.
For more information on UNIS, go to
unishanoi.org
TERMINAL 2
The new terminal at Hanois Noi Bai Airport,
Terminal 2, went into operation on Thursday
Dec. 25, with all international flights
departing from the facility from Dec. 31.
After three years of construction, the
four-storey, US$645.3 million passenger
terminal at Noi Bai International Airport in
Hanoi is the largest of its kind in Vietnam
so far. 996 meters long and with a total floor
area of over 139,000 square meters, the new

facility will be able to serve 10 to 15 million
passengers per year.
On Dec. 25, the Vietnamese national
carrier Vietnam Airlines was the first
aviation firm to use the terminal for its Flight
VN661 from Hanoi to Singapore. As of Dec.
31, Vietnam Airlines began using the new
facility for all its international flights.
THE SMOKEHOUSE
Is it a shift in the global axis of power?
Probably not. But the opening of the Moose
& Roo Smokehouse in the American Club,
an American Embassy-run piece of land in
downtown Hanoi, has certainly arched a few
eyebrows. Run by a Canadian, a Scot and
an Australian, is this a departure from the
Americanism of the club? The answer is no.
Says man at the helm, Keith Thibert,
the menu of this American-style grill
and barbecue joint pays homage to their
landlords, with a distinct US theme. Think
smoked pork ribs, smoked BBQ chicken,
pulled pork and smoked beef brisket, and
you get the idea. Add to this a selection
of American sides and a cocktail menu
influenced by one of the best mid-range

American bourbons around Knob Creek
and the smokehouse is about as American
as it can get. Already its getting some
positive plaudits.
Although only open for dinner, according
to Keith they will start lunch service at some
point in January (he hopes). And for anyone
worried that The Smokehouse may mean the
end of all those festivals the American Club
is famous for, dont. Part of the deal requires
The Smokehouse to vacate the premises for a
certain number of days a year.
The Moose & Roo Smokehouse is at the
American Club, 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi
CONG CAPHE
Remember the Domino theory? Well it seems
that Communist-themed, Hanoi-based
coffee chain Cong Caphe has taken it to
heart. With the opening of five new cafes at
the beginning of this year, the chain is now
growing its 12 spaces, a huge departure from
the miniscule original that opened a few
years back on Trieu Viet Vuong.
To visit the latest offerings in Cong Caphe
club, head to 46 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; 8+9 A1
Hoang Cau, Dong Da; 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho; 101- C6 Tran Huy Lieu, Ba Dinh and 2 Le
Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem
MAISON DE TET DCOR

If youre a fan of Tet Dcor Caf and Backyard
Bia Hoi, then youll like the latest offering
from entrepreneur and man behind the scenes,
Pete Wilkes.
Located on West Lake on the opposite side
of the water to Al Frescos, Dons and The
Rebublic, and set in a mock-colonial, yellowwashed walled villa, like its sister locations,
Maison de Tet Dcor oozes rustic class, and of
course, tasty caf-style fare.
Selling up smoothies, coffee and juices as
well as sandwiches, burgers, salads, organic
brown rice and soups, there is a healthy,
wholesome edge to the food and drink at
Maison, all with an ethnic minority edge.
Prices remain reasonable, too, with a meal
here going for between VND150,000 to
VND180,000 for a main, while fruit juices start
at VND50,000 and espresso-style coffee weighs
in at VND60,000.
And for anyone into the all-day breakfast,
here it is on offer from 7am to 5pm.

Maison de Tet Dcor is at 36 Duong Ven Ho,
Tay Ho, Hanoi
overscene hanoi
Art Vietnam Reopens

Photos by Julie Vola
Hanois best-known international art
gallery moved to new digs on Ly Quoc
Su and celebrated with a party, one
which brought in the arts community
and a whole load of dignitaries.
Kilomet 109
Photos byJulie Vola

The well-known homegrown fashion
brand and Manzi Art Space teamed up
for a catwalk show and an installation
that ran to the end of December. The
installation that is, not the runway.
art for you

There were two art fairs in Hanoi last
month. We visited the one organised by
Workroom Four and Manzi Art Space.
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look
The Smokehouse

The Canadian-Australian-Scottish run
Moose & Roo took over the American
Club last month with a new concept
American-style barbecue. Theyve even
got a Knob Creek cocktail list.
In the Name of Charity

Photos provided by InterContinental Hanoi
Westlake
Staff at the InterCon decided to give
something back to the community, with a
visit to the Birla Childrens Village.
Insider
MANY FACES // THE RISE OF THE CONVENIENCE STORE // MALL RATS // ANOTHER BURNER IN THE
WALL // FESTIVAL SEASON IN VIETNAM // STANDPOINT THEORIES // MYSTERY DINER HANOI // STREET
SNACKER HANOI // MYSTERY DINER HCMC // STREET SNACKER HCMC // FASHION // HOKKAIDO
DREAMS // 22.5 HOURS IN SEOUL // ART IN SINGAPORE
PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY
insider
MANY FACES
HCMC
Lifes Better Barbecued

Jon Aspin gets in conversation with Saigons grillmaster,
Gavin Crossley. Photos by Glen Riley
ould your life be better? How?

And are you a fan of barbecues?
Three questions that dont often
go together, unless your name is
Gavin Crossley. Im talking to him in his
Binh Thanh storage shed-cum-showroom,
barely six months after he asked himself the
same three things and then started Saigon
BBQs. For the record he answered yes and
yes to the first and third questions, while the
second has gotten him involved in a world
of dual fuel, wok burners and rotisseries
he never thought twice about five years ago.
That is, unless he was on the business end
of a pair of tongs, beer in hand and holding
forth on life as he knew it in his native
Sydney, Australia.
Gavin is Saigons newest player in the
hotly contested barbecue market, only with
one big difference hes no restaurateur.
You wont find him trawling the markets at
4am looking for the best deals on chicken
and squid. But that doesnt mean the Quan
Ut Uts, Barbecue Gardens and 5KUs of this
world should completely relax.
Gavins more like the Ray Kinsella of BBQ
you know, Kevin Costners Field of Dreams
character, the one who hears the heavenly
voice say, If you build it, [they] will come.
Yes, Gavins more like that, only in reverse.
Hes building them and sending them away
and its going pretty well.
Cooking with Gas

I cant supply my customers quick
enough, Gavin says of his fledgling new
enterprise. As soon as I get the stock from
my partner in Hanoi, theyre already sold. So
I just keep ordering more and waiting.
Running with the tagline Life is Better
Barbecued, Saigon BBQs was born out of
necessity, he says he simply couldnt find
a decent gas barbecue in the city.
I tried and tried for months to find a
good quality, gas-powered stainless steel
barbecue and grill in Saigon, but I couldnt,
he says. Thats when the idea came to start
doing something about it.
From conception in April 2014, through
sourcing the locally-made material and then
an easy-does-it launch in August, the
process hasnt taken that long. Despite this,
and as evidenced by his backlog of orders,
the idea is proving popular and not just
among expats familiar with the western

home barbecue concept.
Gavin says he wasnt worried about
the local tradition for charcoal barbecue,
evidenced in the success of a chain like
5KU, springing up over the last two years
in disused lots through-out Ho Chi Minh
City. The tradition of charcoal barbecue
here provides a unique flavour, and so we do
provide that dual-fuel option, but its much
less clean than gas.
It sounds a bit
cheesy, but Im not just
selling stainless steel
hotplates and grills
Im selling a lifestyle
Also, the Vietnamese definitely see it as
a status symbol. They want their shiny new
toy from me so they can have barbecues in
their nice new middle-class villas, and Im
happy to provide that for them.
But why leave one of the cradles of

modern barbecue for Vietnam?
I fell in love with this country in 2000
and then again in 2007, he says. So by 2009
I sold everything I had and packed my life
into a 19kg backpack. I spent the first two
years learning the language at university
this has helped me a lot. I met my wife a
couple of years ago, I have a good job, were
building a house and soon were having a
child.
And hes not leaving barbecue behind.
Barbecues are in your blood if youre
an Australian. Theres no mistaking that
barbecuing is part of your life. Its almost
inconceivable that you can ever live
without one. He smiles that grin again and
continues. It sounds a bit cheesy, but Im
not just selling stainless steel hot-plates and
grills, he leans in slightly to meet my eye,
ensuring I dont miss his punchline Im
selling a lifestyle.
And what about the dream? I ask,
alluding to taking on Saigon BBQs full time.
Well just see how it goes, he smiles again,
and I get the feeling itll go pretty well, one
hotplate at a time.
See the full range at saigonbbqs.com
Small Business in Action

When photographer Glen and I meet Gavin,
he is juggling a reasonably tight timeline. It
involves a conference call with China for his
day job at a container logistics company, this
interview, a photo shoot and about 15kg
of stainless steel barbecue.
The barbecue in question is the Frill Neck
3-Burner, the baby of the range. Its stable
mates are the Blue Tongue, the Iguana and
the T-Rex. All lizards, he says, laughing.
Hes strapping the Frill Neck to his trusty
Honda Cub before setting off on a regular
delivery to the expat enclave of Thao
Dien. Its a brisk 12-minute ride from where
we are now on Binh Quoi, a pleasant, often
tree-lined journey hes been travelling more
and more. We set off behind him and I cant
help but get excited about being part of
small business in action. I ask him if he ever
thought hed be doing this, and he replies
from under his helmet with what can only
be described as a broad Australian smile,
Never but Im glad I am.
insider
While in Hanoi they have
yet to make an impact, in
Saigon convenience stores
are everywhere. So, have
they changed the way
people shop? Or is there
something else at play?
Words by Nick Ross
n 2005 a forward-thinking entrepreneur

opened a convenience store in the gas
station on the corner of Saigons Hai Ba
Trung and Tran Cao Van streets. The move
was visionary yet it failed. Within months
the store closed down.
Fast forward a decade later while Hanoi
has yet to take the bait, in Ho Chi Minh City
the convenience store is everywhere. Now
the wars are here, with Circle K, Family
Mart, Shop & Go and Bs Mart battling for
customers. So intense is the conflict that the
chains are opening new outlets almost every
week.
Whats behind this sudden convenience
store explosion? Is it the product mix, the
international look and the aircon or is it
something else? And how is the traditional
corner shop, the tap hoa or mama and papa
grocery store, managing to fare? Unlike in
the west, where it was the supermarket that
dealt the fatal blow to the once ubiquitous
grocery store, something else is happening
here. Is the convenience store doing the same
in Vietnam?
I decided to investigate.
Price Watch
I started at Circle K on Xuan Thuy in Ho
Chi Minh Citys District 2. It wasnt the first
convenience store to open in the area. That
accolade goes to a smaller Circle K that
appeared on Thao Dien in 2012. But its the
larger of the two stores, and certainly the
only one with proper seating.
My first move was to do a price watch on
a small basket of goods. Heres what I found
at Circle K.
330ml can of Coca-Cola VND11,000
500ml bottle of La Vie VND5,500
Xylitol chewing gum VND5,500 or
VND6,000, depending on the flavour
Craven A cigarettes, pack of 20 VND20,000
54g Poca ready-salted potato chips
VND10,500
As I discovered later when I went to my
favourite corner shop, the ramshackle joint
two blocks away on the corner of Quoc
Huong and Le Van Mien, the prices at Circle
K were between 10 and 20 percent higher.
BUSINESS
HCMC
The Rise of the

Convenience
Store
This was for everything on the list except for

the Poca potato chips, which were the same
price. And Circle K had a special offer on the
larger bags.
On a trip to nearby competitors Family
Mart and Bs Mart, I discovered that these
two chains position themselves as a cheaper
alternative, although prices are still five
and 10 percent above the standard no-name
corner store. A can of Coca-Cola was going
for VND9,000 in both places while a La Vie
bottle cost VND5,000. In my favourite corner
shop, Coca-Cola was a mere VND8,000.
In my mind, Circle K is the market
leader. It has the highest profile the
brand sponsors a number of large-scale,
youth-orientated events and gigs, and
they are exclusive ticket-sellers for some
of the largest of these events. They have
constant competitions in store, a range of
promotions, sell the Circle K equivalent of
iced drinks such as Slush Puppy, and have a
distinct American theme. They are also more
expensive.
Yet the youth flock to Circle K in droves,
as they do to Family Mart and, to a lesser

extent, Bs Mart. So what are the convenience
stores doing right?
Middle-Income Vietnam
In 1950s America, a time of peace and
prosperity, a new market opened up the
youth market. With a low birth rate in the
1930s and an abundance of jobs, this was the
first time when teenagers and young adults
had money to spend. It was also the first era
in which the word teenager became widely
used.
Suddenly teenagers and college students
had cars, nice cars. They would go to drivethru restaurants or neon-lit diners, could
afford nice clothes, listened to a new kind of
music rock n roll and they began to
hang out.
A similar social revolution has been taking
place in Vietnam. New music mainly
K-pop has taken over YouTube views and
MP3 players. A pop culture has developed
that is growing ever more individual, ever
more varied, ever more exciting.
With greater prosperity Vietnam is now

a middle-income country young people
have money to spend. Large numbers of
teenagers and young adults now have their
own transport, and like the American youth
of 60 years ago, they like to hang out.
In the Circle K I often go to on Nguyen
Khac Nhu in District 1, both after and before
school the place is packed with school kids.
Some are buying snacks soft drinks,
fast food, potato chips, candy others are
quite simply hanging out in the seating
area, gossiping with their friends. Theyre
spending money, not much, but theyre
spending.
And in the Family Mart I check out on
Quoc Huong in District 2, the outside seating
area is monopolised by uniformed university
students from the newly opened campus
of Saigon International University, a few
doors down the road. Some are just drinking
bottles of water, while others have taken
advantage of the cheap snacks.
And this is what all the convenience stores
have done well. The snacks.
[Convenience stores]
havent quite changed
the way people shop.
Thats the role of
the supermarket,
the shopping mall
and online shopping.
Rather, they have
created a place for
young people to hang
out on the cheap
In Family Mart, fried Japanese-style

stick snacks cost between VND5,000 and
VND10,000 a go. You can also get fried
chicken drumsticks for VND19,000 a piece.
While in Circle K, the menu includes grilled
sausage (VND20,000), hot dogs (VND23,000),
mixed instant noodles (VND6,000) and banh
mi op la (VND9,000). And theres a range of
iced soft drinks at cheap prices.
Mix this all with aircon it gets hot in
Saigon and free Wifi, and you have the
perfect spot for kids to hang out on the
cheap.
But theres another addition to the formula
choice. When I was in Circle K, I counted
113 types of soft drink and 15 brands of beer.
In Family Mart, the soft drink selection was
down to 75, while the beer selection hit a
heady 19. There is something for everyone.
Back to the Grocery Store

That the convenience stores have managed
to tap into this new and growing market is
ingenious. Before they introduced the fast
food concept, free Wifi and in-store seating,
they struggled. There were only a few stores

around, and being more expensive meant
less customers.
Yet 60 percent of the Vietnams population
is under 30. And with GDP growth in 2013 at
5.4 percent and growing, more of this youth
qualifies for middle-class status, year by year
which means more disposable income.
Through a process of trial and error led by
Circle K, the convenience stores have now
found their market.
They havent quite changed the
way people shop. Thats the role of the
supermarket, the shopping mall and online
shopping. Rather, they have created a place
for young people to hang out on the cheap.
And theyre providing choice, a choice that
previously just did not exist.
Close to Home
At my favourite corner shop, I ask the owner
about business. Shes positive.
Were still doing okay, she explains,
and we still have our regular customers.
This is despite now having two Family
Marts, a Bs Mart and a Circle K in close

proximity.
The convenience stores are so expensive,
she adds. No-one goes there.
Maybe at night? I venture, not wanting
to openly disagree. They are open 24
hours.
Yes, she says. Possibly at night. But
only young people go to these places and
they dont have much money.
I laugh. Its true.
A Matter of Price
As I discovered after I wrote this piece,
Circle Ks prices change depending
on the area in which each store is
located. So, the outlets in District 2 and
Pham Ngu Lao, wealthy areas with a
large numbers of foreigners, are more
expensive. Elsewhere, prices are closer
to market standard. The difference
between the two pricing levels is about
10 percent.
cover story
Mall
Rats
The mall is taking over retail in Vietnam.

Or is it? We enter the world of the
shopping mall. Words by Hoa Le, David
Mann, Niko Savvas, Jon Aspin,
Ed Weinberg and Nick Ross
T
The Growing
Middle Class
With a potential market of 90 million
people, international brands are
desperate to enter this country. This
is supported by the market research.
According to Nielsen, between 2012
and 2020 the Vietnamese middle
class will grow by 145 percent.
In fact, in six countries surveyed
in Southeast Asia Vietnam, the
Philippines, Thailand, Malaysia,
Indonesia and Singapore total
consumption during this period will
grow from US$46 billion to US$310
billion. The size of the middle class
will also grow, to 44 million people or
approximately 8 percent of the total
population of all six nations. By 2030
this will more than double.
But those who have arrived have
discovered a simple fact of life.
According to Epinion, two thirds of
households in Vietnam earn less
than VND15 million a month. This
means there is little spending power.
Especially in the urban, working
class areas of Vietnam.
Take the stats further and you get
another reality check. 75 percent
of household spending goes on
savings, holidays, healthcare,
education and daily necessities.
That means of those two thirds who
are earning less than VND15 million
a month, only 25 percent of that
figure can be spent on the kind of
products sold in the malls. Take a
household with an income of VND15
million a month, once the necessities
have been taken care of, they
will only have VND3.75 million of
disposable income left over.
shopping
here used to be a rule of thumb

with Vietnams shopping malls
look at the shoppers and see how
many of them are actually carrying
bags. As I take a lunchtime walk through
Lotte Center, Hanois latest monument to
the heady world of retail, the answer in
front of my eyes remains the same. Not so
many.
This is not me going bottom of the barrel
or scraping up an opportunity to have a
dig at this Korean-built shrine to shopping
Lotte Center is the most modern and
certainly the most international of all the
malls in Vietnam. If you see development
and modernisation as positive, its a
welcome addition to Hanoi.
Rather the observation suggests that little
has changed in the world of the shopping
mall. For years now they have represented
the opportunity for a family outing, or
somewhere to head with friends. In the heat
they are the purveyor of aircon, a welcome
opportunity to cool off. And when youre
looking to relieve yourself, theres nowhere
better than a mall. There was a joke many
years ago about Saigons Diamond Plaza, the
first department store in the city. The only
reason people went there was because the
toilets were good.
Yet when it came to the physical act of
purchasing goods, in Vietnam the mall has
never quite been top of the agenda. Rather,
a trip to a shopping mall the Diamond
Plazas or Vincoms of this world has
always been seen as an excursion, one
which would end with a meal and drinks in
the food court or perhaps some purchases
in the supermarket. The belief is that the
not-so-humble mall in Vietnam has always
struggled.
But have they? Certainly a financial
advisor who worked for Diamond Plaza
until a few years ago talked to Word of their
first decade of operation in glowing terms.
But that was before the effects of the banking
crisis rippled through to Vietnam.
In an interview in September 2013, David
Lyons, the then country manager of real
estate firm Jones Lang LaSalle, told Word that
the malls outside of central Hanoi and Ho
Chi Minh City were the ones making money.
These arent the Crescent Malls or Royal
Cities of this world, but the likes of the Satra
Mart malls in Ho Chi Minh Citys District 10
and Binh Chanh or An Dong Plaza in District
5, the shopping complexes retailing to low
and mid-end customers, the consumers
searching out deals rather than being swept
away by the lure of the international brand.
The retail market is really struggling in
Vietnam at the moment, he explained. Its

only the low-end sector, the one that is a
small upgrade from the traditional market,
where profits are high.
Relationships
Huong is a mother and a businesswoman.

She has people at home to worry about the
daily necessities of running the house and
ensuring her kids are looked after. And yet
she still loves the draw of the market.
I go to Ben Thanh almost every day, she
says. I have friends there, we like to chat,
and I know where to buy good quality fruit,
vegetables, meat and fish.
Even though she loves the supermarket,
especially the well-stocked versions
overseas, and even though she gets pleasure
out of just shopping, her trips to the malls
are rare. When she does go there, like so
many others in Vietnam, she treats it as an
excursion. Theres some shopping involved,
but not too much.
I like to know the people who are
selling to me, she explains. I like to have a
bag test
relationship with them.

By its nature, modern shopping is a
transaction, without such relationships. Sure,
Huong could buy good quality products
in one of the countrys top malls and in its
increasingly international supermarkets.
But she doesnt. Shopping in such places
destroy for her one of the key things she
loves about going to the market personal
relationships.
Her experience is typical. In Vietnam
people, in particular women, love the
relationship-based atmosphere of the
market.
The mall has certainly made huge strides.
It is a place that people love to go. But to
become a part of everyday life, it is this issue
that must be overcome. It will happen. As
Vietnam modernises, so life will get more
impersonal. Market relationships will no
longer be so vital.
But how long it will take for the likes of
Hanois Lotte Center to be teaming with
shoppers carrying those all-important bags
is anyones guess. Nick Ross
Brands
At the end of 2012 a scandal broke in the
Vietnamese press. Gucci and Milano,
it was claimed, were importing fake
products from China and passing them off
as real. Little has been written in the media
since then, except that investigations are
ongoing. The suggestion was it may have
been the staff rather than the owners.
But the damage was already done.
The news did no more than reinforce a
commonly held view in Vietnam when
you buy branded products here, you can
never be quite sure that they are the Real
McCoy.
It is no mistake that those Vietnamese

with disposable income, the top
earners, prefer shopping overseas
to shopping in Vietnam: Singapore,
Bangkok, Hong Kong, or even as far
afield as Australia, Europe and North
America. Not only can they trust the
products they are buying, but the
variety is better and prices are usually
cheaper. Unless you are buying
online, via the likes of Lazada or the
growing numbers of Facebook shops,
purchasing branded goods in Vietnam
often means paying a premium.
The Family Outing
Photos by David Harris
t was 9am on Sunday morning when

my friend Lan Phuong began uploading
photos of her family hanging out in Royal
Citys Vincom Mega Mall. I could see her
husband and two kids (one a newborn baby),
her older sister and her kids, and her parents,
both in their mid 60s. Her entire family was
having a hanging-out weekend, everyone
dressed up and lots of photos taken. No one
looked like they were stressed at being awake

early on a Sunday morning or having to take
care of the four kids at once. In fact, they all
looked smiley and happy.
Its fun, Phuong says. You can do a
lot of things in the mall. My older kid can
play in the playground while my parents
and sister go shopping for perfume,
clothes, furniture, sometimes food. Almost
everything one can think of. Sometimes they

spend the whole day there.
And my friends family is not the only
family there. For most people who dont have
much time for a weekend getaway, large
shopping malls give them plenty of options
for the family gathering although,
Phuong admits, it can get overstimulating.
Hoa Le
Photo by Julie Vola
Supersize Me
or many expats living in Vietnam,

finding clothes that fit can be an
ongoing and sometimes emotional
struggle. Hours can be spent
perusing the crammed shelves of Hang Be,
affectionately known as Shoe Street, in
Hanois Old Quarter, only to end in tears
when told that that eye-catching pair of Vans
doesnt come upwards of US size 10.
The same can be true of visits to many
of Vietnams lively markets and modern

boutiques that, while definitely not short on
variety, simply dont stock items for the bigboned. And its not just shoes, either. Trips to
purchase T-shirts, pants and even blouses can
make expat shoppers a little hot under the
collar making the prospect of fashioning
togas out of bed sheets somewhat appealing.
While this status quo has provided a
generous boost to Vietnams impressive
network of tailors, the opening of modern

shopping complexes such as Hanois Lotte
Center potentially marks an end to those
arduous searches.
Stocking foreign brands in a wide selection
of sizes, the new Lotte has seen Hanois expat
community flock to the changing rooms.
But while you may have the option of better
sizing at your fingertips, you may have to pay
through the nose to get it. David Mann
The Vixens
uch like doctors, engineers,

and poets, promotional models
play an essential role in modern
society. Without their tireless
efforts, the hapless shopper would be
forced to select beer or face soaps using
only his own judgment and preferences.
The potential consequences are more
disastrous than one can imagine.
Yet despite the frequent opportunities
for face-to-bosom discourse, promotional
models remain mysteriously alluring to
the layman (or, more precisely, the un-laid
man). There is little we know about them,
save their enthusiasm for brands that are
a bit more expensive than the ones wed

normally choose.
How does one become a promotional
model? What are the qualities that
companies demand from prospective
angels of the aisles? Could you be a model
some day? No, of course you couldnt, but
arent you a little curious anyway?
Word is committed to bringing its
readers the hard-hitting investigatory
journalism they may or may not have
asked for, especially when miniskirts
are involved. In this spirit, we have
exhaustively researched (aka totally made
up) the key criteria that businesses use
to choose promotional models. For your

edification and amusement, our findings
are published below.
Appearance
The promotional model must be graceful

and elegant, a heavenly vision of
femininity manifested on earth to spread
joyous goodwill. Her smile should be
dazzling, her eyes full of laughter and
secret whispers. Her hair must fall like
liquid silk, and her mascara must be
expertly applied. Her fingernails should
sparkle like the pearls of the sea.
Her posture must be proud and
Photo by Kyle Phanroy
of Retail
dignified, her movements supple like

the wind amidst the reeds, no matter
the height of her stiletto heels. Her soft
and gentle curves, snugly wrapped in
company-provided attire that does not
reach mid-thigh, should call to mind
an empress of yore, like Cleopatra or
Catherine the Great.
No fat chicks.
Education
The promotional model should be a

scholarly woman, ideally trained in the
classics of Homer and Lao Tzu, with an
equal aptitude for languages, sciences,
and mathematics. Her skills in oratory

and rhetoric must be keen, and it would
be helpful for her to have a nuanced
appreciation of the logical properties
related to bivalence and the law of the
excluded middle.
In the absence of such candidates,
anyone with the ability to add and subtract
may be considered. Previous experience in
pointing at things is helpful. Postgraduate
degrees are preferred but not required.
Character
The mind and (especially) the body of a

promotional model must be exceptional,
but it is her heart that matters most.

The spirit of civic responsibility should
inspire her at all times, even when lesser
souls might be tempted to duck into the
backroom to check Facebook or play a
quick game of Candy Crush. She must
conduct her duties with integrity and
attentiveness. Napping on the job might
be acceptable for air traffic controllers or
paramedics, but the promotional model
holds herself to a higher standard.
For she is an embodiment of excellence,
and excellence never rests. Even after
lunch, or when its really hot outside.
Niko Savvas
8 Observations
During Lunch
Break
Percentage of food court staff observed wearing Crocs: 14 percent
Best place to take a date: Royal City Vinpearl Ice Rink
Number of people observed doing needle point on their lunch break: 2
Handsomest mall security guards: Vincom security guards tend to be the sexiest
Best place in Hanoi to join the 220-metre-high club: Lotte Center Hanoi's 67th floor Top of Hanoi bar
The most comfortable mall caf in Ho Chi Minh City: Paris Baguette in Vincom Center B (leather couches!)
Best Doraemon imagery: Aeon Mall Tan Phus Doraemon Tofu Factory
Best all-season selfie: In front of the Crescent Mall aquarium
The Sushi at Aeon Mall...
Photo by Francis Xavier
Its not very good, and I dont know why. Aeon Mall Tan Phu employee
vercrowded and busy as heck

are just the first adjectives that
come to mind when talking about
shopping malls in Hanoi. But
with its new stores and five-star hotel
complex, Lotte has proven that spending
the weekend in a shopping mall doesnt
have to be boring or overwhelming.
Just a few steps away from the store
area towards the Lotte Hotel, one can
indulge in a few hours of tranquility at
the 35th-floor Evian Spa, or enjoy an
open-air dinner on one of the citys most
picturesque rooftops.
Located on what would be the 67th
floor of the Lotte Center, the Top of Hanoi
brasserie and bar blows everyones mind
with breathtaking 360-degree views of the
city, overseeing the many charming lakes,
the Red River and the colourful nighttime
street lights. Occasionally, Top of Hanoi
also has live music or a DJ to add to the
ambience.
On windy winter days, you can choose to
stay indoors while still enjoying the majestic
view at the Pharaohs Bar and Upper on the
63rd floor. With such a variety of relaxation
options available, the shopping experience
in Hanoi has reached a new level a higher
one. Hoa Le
Not Just
Massage Chairs
Aesthetic
Sensibilities
heres a store on the second floor of

Ho Chi Minh Citys Vincom Center B,
whose evenly-spaced window display
brackets break the recessed lighting
in such a way that it spills into the hall like
the autumn sun through a forest. Its a ballet
of clean lines. The two fingers that inspired
selfie-takers throw up only add to the effect.
Elsewhere, there sit two ice-textured

pillars for people to pose in front of, metallic
angels dangling off. An arcing sign reading
DREAMLAND hangs between them. The
clean black facade of the Emporio Armani
store beckons. And flitting between these
photogenic beacons is an army of glamour
girls, smartphones in hand.
Stepping outside, the palms are strung

with bluish-white lights, paralleling the
dreamy edgework that rises up Vincom Bs
27 floors. Some sit on the ledges that border
the shrubbery, staring at the flow of people
in and around the mall entrance. Its a cool,
holiday season night. From here the people
seem like the main attraction. Ed Weinberg
The Kids
are Alright
n Ho Chi Minh Citys Aeon Mall Tan

Phu, Word had a chance to speak with
some of the bright young stars of the
non-competitive dance circuit the
ones who wear spandex to the mall, in
hopes of furthering their Dance Dance
Revolution high scores.
Word: How often do you guys come here to
play this game?
Pi: Very often. Every day.
Word: Where do you live?
Pi: Nearby.
Word: Do you go to clubs to dance?

Pi: No, just here.
Word: How old are you?

Pi: Im 17.
Word: Do you have competitions?

Pi: No, we just come here and we know
each other.
Word: Do you go other places in the mall?

Pi: Yes, for eating.
Word: When youre not at the mall, what do you

do for fun?
Pi: I dont know. Sometimes I stay at home to
check my Facebook. Sometimes I go to church.
Word: So you go to church, check Facebook or
go to the mall?
Pi: Yes.
Word: Where do you eat?

Pi: I think Ive eaten everything.
Word: Have you eaten at the Doraemon Tofu
Factory?
Pi: Yeah!
Word: Its good, right?
Pi: Delicious.
Mall Date
ave you ever wondered why

teenagers show more affection for
each other in a shopping mall rather
than outside on the street? Well they
do, and my two teenage cousins told me why.
When we come to a shopping mall, we
feel like were in some sort of entertainment
place and its more natural. No one judges
us because they are all busy shopping or

looking around, says cousin Hang. This
makes it easier for her to summon the
courage to hold her boyfriends hand, or
give him a hug from time to time and, of
course, take selfies.
While what others think is still important
to teenagers like my cousins, they have
become more free in behaving intimately

with their partners in public places. In
Hanoi, people used to come to quiet places
such as Lenin Park or the benches on West
Lake to get in their canoodling. Nowadays,
unstructured entertainment spaces like
shopping malls, ice rinks and bowling centres
give them more chances to do so. Hoa Le
Photo by Julie Vola
K-Shop
hen Korean pop culture and

K-pop swept through Asia in
the early 2000s, few predicted
how pervasive it would be. Fast
forward a decade and Korean film, soap
and music stars are now important brand
ambassadors for Korean companies looking
to cash in on their popularity abroad.
According to real estate and retail
consultancy CBRE, pop groups such as
Girls Generation and Super Junior, as well
as soap My Love from the Star, have carved a
prominent niche in the Vietnamese market
and South Korean retailers have taken

notice. Just last year, the unveiling of the
new Lotte Center in Hanois Ba Dinh District
saw throngs of young Vietnamese flock to
the malls grand opening to get a glimpse
of Girls Generation, flown in for the lavish
event.
The power of K-pop becomes evident
with a stroll through the lower levels of the
towering Lotte Center. Famous K-pop stars
adorn a litany of cosmetic, fashion and tech
brand billboards while on the ground floor,
teens line up to take selfies with cardboard
cut-outs of their K-pop idols.

However, the new shopping complex also
seems to be spreading some of the subtler
elements of Korean culture. I like how there
are aspects of Korean customer service and
lots of Korean food, says mother-of-three,
Nguyen Chi Linh, referring to the hordes of
Korean coffee, fast food and shopping outlets
on the upper levels. At the entrance there
is a person who bows as you walk in to the
store. Being able to experience a piece of
Korea in Hanoi definitely makes shopping
more special. David Mann
Confessions of a
eons trying to put a Japanese

spin its Vietnam, trying to
do Japan well. They didnt let
us use the public toilets for a
while, we had to go down two stairs to use
the toilets. We asked them why, they said,
Its Japanese culture.
Were speaking with an employee in Ho
Chi Minh Citys Aeon Mall Tan Phu, whos
observed many of the growing pains the
mid-end Japanese mall has gone through
since it opened in January of last year.
During this time, the mall has dealt with
challenges unique to its far-from-downtown
location, like cows in the taxi line and
people unskilled with escalators trying to
take their shopping carts on.
Tan Phu is quite a working class area,
a place where people come to sell their
wares. People from the countryside to the
north come to Tan Phu to sell at a few main
streets and a few main markets. So theres
already that kind of immigration from the
countryside happening. Its pretty rough

and tumble.
But then Celadon [City, the residential
development that Aeon Mall is part of]
have bought a huge area and its very
sanitised. So youve got a park thats
beautifully clean, a manmade lake in the
middle. New high-rise blocks with proper
swimming pools and stuff. And at the heart
of it is Aeon.
So you have this free flow of people
just coming into Aeon on the way back
from work... who are in this pristine
Japanese shopping mall, but their life has
been going from the field, going from the
slaughterhouse, and bringing wares to
[nearby main street] Tan Ky Tan Quy. Now
theres this stop-off point, people are using
it as a stop-off point to chill out in. No-one is
going there to buy anything.
One of the things that lends itself to the
no-money experience is the free parking
space for 4,000 motorbikes and 500 cars.
Many people go there every day. At night

the hallways are full, yet most stores are
empty.
You see people part with money
occasionally, for like sushi or fried chicken.
But its like an experience.
You get people who just want to sit in
the elevator and ride it up and down, or
do the loops of the escalators. Loads of
pictures... everythings shoulder-height,
you can pose with everything outside every
shop. Everythings got an image. You get
queues of people to take pictures with the
Levis sign.
Tell Me About the

Escalators
Yeah, youve got the old people, who are

led on by kids. Theyre so scared, theyre
so so scared of moving stairs. Theyre
your most common demographic of funny
people on the escalators. They take three,
four seconds to get on, and when they get
Mall Employee
on its very sharp movements. You wait,

and then you pounce on your opportunity
to get on the escalators.
Then you got the confident teenagers,
early 20s. And theyre walking on without
breaking stride, then sitting down.
Then youve got the busy mothers with
like three kids in the trolley [at Aeon, its
very common to see families load their kids

up in the shopping trolleys]. And they just
make a beeline for the escalator with the
shopping cart, and put it on and try to hold
it. How does that work? Oh, they usually
get pulled off by the security, they stop the
escalator. Theres security at the bottom and
top of every escalator. Ed Weinberg
Shopping
with Roubles
orning at the Nha Trang Centre,

the only mall in Nha Trang. Not
that its quite that, any more. When
the mall first opened four years
ago, the concept of several different shops
in one, four-storey precinct didnt work
in provincial Nha Trang. So the owners
transformed it into the equivalent of an
upscale market, giving the shopping centre a
department store makeover, but without the
Parkson-style branding.
But on this Saturday morning I wonder
to myself, is this place working? Are people
actually making money here? From the
surprising number of concessions you
would think the answer is yes. International
brands mixed with local enterprise are

everywhere. But except for a few Russians
in pairs and the odd, three generation-strong
Chinese family, the place is empty. Even the
fourth-floor food court has not quite opened
its doors. The staff is there, but theyre in
gossip mode, chatting away before the rush
of the lunch trade. If theres such a thing as
a rush.
By 2pm the mall has started to fill up. A
little. The fourth floor games area, arcade
and bowling alley are doing a modicum
of business here the customers are
Vietnamese. And the next-door food court
also has some movement. Yet half the
customers are Russian. With cheap food on
offer, air-con and signage in three languages

English, Vietnamese and Russian you
can see the attraction. Elsewhere in the mall,
it remains almost dead. Only here is there
some life.
I descend towards the ground floor
and see a large-bellied man, sunburnt
and topless, ascending the other side of
the escalators. Hes with his partner
fortunately shes dressed for the occasion.
For a moment I think to try and take a photo
topless in a shopping mall is incongruous.
But Im embarrassed. Why would I want to
take a photo of him?
Instead a conversation I had the previous
night comes to mind. I find myself
Photos by Nick Ross
beginning to worry again. Not for the state

of the Russian male in conservative Vietnam.
But for the mall, itself, and Nha Trang.
Since the crisis in Ukraine kicked off,
and since oil prices started to plummet, the
rouble has lost 50 percent of its value against
the US Dollar. Now Putin is calling for
Russians to tighten their belts. Quite simply,
travelling to Vietnam is no longer as cheap
as it was a year ago. Nha Trang is one of the
main beneficiaries of Russian tourism. Head
to the beach, and all the sunbathers are from
Russia.
According to one hotelier, there are
normally 35 direct charter flights a month
to Nha Trang. Over the next two months
only a few are booked in after Tet there

are none.
The city is already struggling to cope
with a downturn in tourism. The economic
reality in Russia is biting in the most
unexpected of places. But with Putins latest
announcement, the city is set to struggle
more.
Nha Trang Centre is owned by Diamond
Bay, explains one Nha Trang-based expat.
Their guests are mainly Russian and their
shuttle bus into town drops everyone off
at the mall. Thats why there are so many
Russians there.
If Putin has his way, not for much longer.
Nick Ross
The Anatomy
of Success
Photos by Glen Riley
o try and sort out what separates

the good from the truly awful,
we spoke to a man whos been
involved in the launch of several
malls, including Savico Megamall in
Hanoi and Phu My Hungs Crescent
Mall in Ho Chi Minh City. Hes Chris
Elkin, managing director of Red Brand
Builders in Vietnam, a brand consultancy
specialising in building emotional
connections with consumers.
Chris talks about the need in Vietnam to
be social, to have a space to congregate and
to watch each other (preferably in air-con) as
a key to success for potential developers. Its
these public spaces he says often executed
as an atrium or relaxed seating arrangement,
spaces he refers to as town halls that
allow people to be themselves. These are
proxies of spaces where people traditionally
share, eat, drink, enjoy entertainment,
gossip and catch up. In other words he
says, be human. He feels that malls without
that kind of space quickly start to feel
claustrophobic, lack any sense of life or
delight and generally become unpleasant
places to be.
But it not just about public space, he says.

Its also about creating an active calendar
of activity around that space, and executing
a consistent brand message well before
putting ads in the paper telling people abut
your fantastic new shopping centre.
The best retail developers put the
customer experience, the total brand
experience at the heart of the way they create
space, says Chris. And by that we mean
going through a very distinctive process of
creating a unique brand positioning which
is then used to build something customers
want. (This includes) retail mix, food,
beverage, entertainment and that space to
enjoy the mall.
What Vietnamese
Shoppers Want
So what about what people want inside

their malls? Apart from space, what are they
going to buy? Chris points out the tendency
in the recent past for developers to think,
Ive got a great location here, this deserves
to be filled with luxury.
This clearly ignores a massive percentage
of the existing audience in this country,
Chris says. And for most Vietnamese

shoppers, they cant afford it, so they
cannot engage with the mall.
You can see this on any given Sunday;
Vietnamese families on an outing,
observing high-end brand stores like
foreign objects, even taking pictures with
these aspirational brands.
It all comes back to knowing who your
customer is, says Chris. The majority of
people in Vietnam who can afford luxury
travel frequently, so they buy luxury at
a better price in other markets, and with
more options. The most successful malls
here have a wide range of retail offerings,
more driven by everyday Vietnamese
brands, targeted to different lifestyles and
age ranges.
Chris points to Saigon Square as a success
in getting this mix right, and believes there
is still opportunity for an internationalstyle mall to tailor their messages and
create individual shopping zones' that
would appeal to a wider range of shoppers.
People dont want to come to a mall and
feel embarrassed because the offerings are
so completely out of reach. Jon Aspin
insider
Mural by Dai Lam Moc and Nhat Be
ARTS
GRAFFITI
Another Burner
in the Wall
Though they often dont last a week, Saigon Outcasts
artistic experiments are having a permanent effect.
Words by Ed Weinberg.
Photos provided by Linh Nguyen and the artists
Suby One
Age: 35
Years writing: 20
W HAT S
YOUR STYLE LIKE ?
My style always goes with my mood,

can be wild, experimental, simple... I hate
doing the same piece twice.
H OW MANY
O UTCAST ?
PIECES HAVE YOU DONE AT
Im in Vietnam a year now, and Outcast is

the first place Ive painted. I think Ive done
over 20 pieces there.
W HAT S
DONE ?
YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE YOU VE
At Outcast I would say a girls portrait.
W HY
DO YOU PAINT AT
O UTCAST ?
Outcast is a damn dope place, because

theyve got all that young people can ask
a ramp for skating, walls for painting,
music, live bands... and nice staff!
Mural by Ans Pham and Chuck Mayfield
Chicko
Crew: 10S
Age: 24
Years writing: 7
W HAT S
YOUR STYLE LIKE ?
I love to do characters, and I do letters,

too. Simple style.
W HY
DO YOU PAINT AT
O UTCAST ?
I like painting at Outcast because they

have a cool place, chill music, kind
people and they love graffiti.
ts in the name Outcast. Ever since

Saigon Outcast started up two-andsome years ago, its been a haven for
the kind of youth culture that doesnt
play at the Ho Chi Minh City Youth
Culture House.
And surrounding the anything-goes
scheduling the afternoon skate sessions,
the music-and-arts festivals, the rock-paperscissors competitions are four walls of
bright acrylic colour, laid down weekly by
Saigons best graffiti artists. This is what
Outcast co-founder Linh Nguyen and I are
here to chat about today.
The Beginning
It evolved spontaneously, Linh says.
Outcast was self-built. We didnt have a
space until they came hes referring
to the people whove formed the Outcast
community, the people skating and writing
graffiti on this lazy Tuesday afternoon.
Then they came and built a Totoro oven
[an earth oven in the shape of Studio Ghibli
cartoon character Totoro], they came and did
graffiti, they came and built a ramp, they
came and used the space.
The Saigon Projects crew put the first
paint on wall. They were some of the first
Anoir
Crews: NC + LGS
Age: 19
Years writing: 8 years
W HAT S
YOUR STYLE LIKE ?
I mix some things from my favourite

styles together and add something of my
own in it. Id like to say Saigon style.
H OW
MANY PIECES HAVE YOU
DONE AT
O UTCAST ?
I cant count.
W HAT
KIND OF PAINT DO YOU
USUALLY USE ?
I use local paint together with imported

cans (Kolour and Montana).
W HAT S YOUR FAVOURITE

YOU VE DONE ?
PIECE
My favourite piece I have ever done is

one on a District 5 rooftop.
W HY
DO YOU PAINT AT
O UTCAST ?
Its cool because its different. There aint

no place for us like this before.
DAOS501
Crews: 10S, NewDay + EVE
Age: Still young
Years writing: 8
W HAT S
YOUR STYLE LIKE ?
I started with old school letters and

tried painting some different styles but
nothing special. Now Im still doing
old school letters and some comic
characters.
On average, Linh says, the wall gets

painted over twice a week. Theres so
much paint its going to preserve this wall
for a thousand years
W HAT
KIND OF PAINT DO YOU
USUALLY USE ?
Any brands. Playing with many kinds of

spray paint is an exciting game.
W HAT S
YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE ?
Im on the way to creating it.
W HY
DO YOU PAINT AT
O UTCAST ?
1) The owners are super cool. 2) The

spot is great where I can paint, chill
and hang out with friends.
Frenemy
Age: 33
Years writing: 14
W HAT S
YOUR STYLE LIKE ?
I do both letters and characters. I have a

name I do when I paint letters and a name
I use for my characters. Frenemy is the
name I use for my character work and my
style is very influenced by cartoons and
illustrations I loved as a kid. I like funky
colours and I have a whole world of wideeyed characters I create.
H OW MANY
O UTCAST ?
PIECES HAVE YOU DONE AT
I moved here about two years ago now,

and I have probably painted about 20
different things at Outcast since I have
been here.

YOU VE DONE ?
PIECE
Its hard to say. I really like the dog on the

skateboard I recently painted on the front
wall... But I also really like the one I did of
one of my monster characters holding a
sword in one hand and a weird balloon
creature in the other while riding a little dog
monster thing. That one was pretty fun as
well.
W HY
DO YOU PAINT AT
O UTCAST ?
Before I moved here I was looking up

anything I could find about graffiti in
Saigon, and Outcast was the first thing to
pop up. Graffiti is such a huge part of my
life and the tool I used to connect with other
artists anywhere I travel around the world.
Outcast gave me that easy meeting point,
and through Outcast I have been able to
meet all of the best friends I have here in
Saigon. It is by far my favourite spot to
hang out at in the city. Its nice to have a
place we can all meet and paint at with no
worries.
writers in the city now split into two or

three factions. There may or may not be
some beefs there.
The graffiti scene used to be really
small, Linh says. Now its expanded.
People are moving in different directions,
and theyve kind of moved away from the
main group, doing their own thing.
But in the beginning, everyone was on
the same page. After Outcast opened, Linh
says, [the artists] came over more and more.
Then they asked to use this place to host the
Style Jam. That was the first graffiti event
the first event at Outcast.
The graffiti was here from then till now.
Only recently did I decide to take photos,
only a year ago. Before it just got painted
over.
How many generations of pieces have
been painted over? On average, Linh says,
the wall gets painted over twice a week.

Often they take off a piece of paint [from
their pieces]. Theres so much paint its going
to preserve this wall for a thousand years.
Theres only one first-generation piece still
up there. Los Angeles-based graf legend El
Mac created a portrait of an old Vietnamese
woman, drawn way back when he was a
special guest at that first graffiti event at
Outcast. The portrait is split by the threshold
of the middle bathroom.
We had a timing fan, Linh says, and
its cooler was over the El Mac piece. And I
literally just said to the guy Remove it, I
want [the piece] back.
All-City
Outcasts walls have become a lightning rod
for graffiti artists just passing through. Linh
says, We had Regan Ha-Ha one of the
Holm (The Tooth)

worlds most influential graf artists he
came and stayed here, the first resident
artist.
Ha-Ha came, spur of the moment, off
an exhibition in Singapore. It was a happy
accident, like so much of Outcasts history
has been. Co-founder Doan Phuong Has
boyfriend knew him and invited him to stay
a few weeks. He did workshops, Linh
says, taught people how to cut stencils.
Every day he joined in the activities,
watching movies, talking to people, having
interviews. He has a big obsession with
UFOs he talked about UFOs quite a lot.
There are some few-week-old artworks
on the containers that Ha-Ha slept in
the scaffolding isnt up all the time but
otherwise everything else on the walls was
painted within the week. They pick a spot
and they paint, Linh says. And its always
the same people. They know the artist, they

know that this is only here for two or three
days, they leave it and theyll go and paint
another spot. Its all respect.
Linhs idea now is to mobilise some of
the frenetic energy thats made Outcast
such a creative turbine. In November,
they took VND10 million raised at the
Melting Pot arts fest and put it towards the
restoration of the An Phu public pool. They
repaired its crumbling walls, then set 20
artists in their network the task of doing the
paint job, spray cans supplied.
It all came together in one afternoon.
Now the kids dont swim in the shadow
of decay rather, their surrounds are a
supernatural blend of Outcast aesthetic.
And just like that, the brilliant, ephemeral
colour Outcast is incubating is having a
permanent effect.
Age: Over 30 but under 50

Years writing: I started when I was 12,
but had some breaks in between
W HAT S
YOUR STYLE LIKE ?
I do characters.
H OW MANY PIECES
AT O UTCAST ?
HAVE YOU DONE
Around 10, I guess. I didnt count.

YOU VE DONE ?
PIECE
I just recently started a new style, less

comicy, more anatomically correct. I did
two of these pieces so far, they are my
favourite at the moment.
W HY
DO YOU PAINT AT
O UTCAST ?
I love the vibe, the freedom, the music,

and the owners are so nice.
insider
ARTS
NATIONAL
Festival Season
in Vietnam
From a 40-DJ festival in a national park to a week of topflight indie acts, to Vietnams first comic con,
festival chronicler Ed Weinberg has seen
the future of the festival in Vietnam,
and it is good. Photos by Francis Xavier
and Ed Weinberg
estivals are the paradise of those

who live for the weekend. I tried
reading through a mass of websearch numbers about them US$4
billion spent on EDM shows worldwide,
circa 2012; some HuffPo article saying 78
percent of Millenials would rather spend
their money on experiences over things
then I put the computer away. It was
time to head up to Hanoi for Quest.
Quest Festival
Nov. 28 30
It was a quest getting to Quest. We started
out too late, and were enjoying the
countryside journey too much to speed
through. We finished our beers at a roadside
com place as twilight settled, and there were
other complicating factors when we hit the
slick of highway gravel at 50km/h.
We had planned on sleeping both nights
in the lakeside tents Quest had clustered in
one of those team-building campgrounds,
right outside of Ba Vi National Park. Instead
we passed the Friday 10km away, in a
small town next to a military hospital. My
passenger Duhwee was waiting for the one
doctor on shift to suture the gash below
his right knee, while I was holding my raw
right arm away from my cream-coloured
T-shirt, red-coloured antiseptic dripping on
the waiting room floor and eventually my
hotel sheets.
When we finally rattled in the next
morning it was like a DIY dreamland.
The grounds were strewn with climbable,
tire-constructed geodesic domes; fairy-tale
wooden bridges and more solidly built
sundecks; three music areas in various
stages of improvisation; psychedelic, twodimensional owls; mountains towering
over everything. The theme was Cosmic
Animals a perfect match for the
experienced festival-goers fancy dress
wardrobe. People swam and drank, waiting
for sunset.
But before the all-night party, before
Alton Millers headlining set of Detroit
underground house, before the mellow
Sunday afternoon scene of hula-hoops, Indian
summer and subaudible bass there was a
sublime moment. In the smallest dance area,
1990s-era hip-hop bounced off a phalanx of
teepees. People danced in between, trailing
feathers and other festival tat. The sun
crept towards the tips of the mountains and
people walked slowly by the waters edge,
contemplating the moment at hand.
Saigon International Music Week

Nov. 26 Dec. 4
Getting back to Saigon on Dec. 4, I dropped
my bags off at home, and headed down
to the last show of Loud Minoritys
inaugural Saigon International Music Week
a confluence of the touring schedules of
three well-established indie bands, with a
Vietnamese showcase thrown in for good
measure.
I got to Cargo Bar in time to crush

a beer with the long lineup of people
smoking outside. Local electronic
act Space//Panther warmed up the
audience for psychedelic headliners
Jagwar Ma the last of a festival slate
that also included The Vaccines and The
Lemonheads.
I looked all around this hip indie show
for signs of a festival happening. People
were dressed cool, the light show was
overpowering and stadium-worthy. The
buzz was audible.
But the most telling sign I saw was
splashed all over the front doors
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL MUSIC
WEEK. The sponsors right below the
bands (sh*t, Word, get on your sponsoring
game!). Budweisers angular bowtie
backdrop complemented the clean lines of
Cargo Bars latest space arrangement.
Its a good thing I got in a cheeky 333
before check-in. The menus sole beer
option reinforced what the lit-up displays
and stage bookends claimed that
Budweiser is indeed Made for Music
(although, super props on the Flor de Caa
rum that now graces the menu!).
I remembered the 3am water shortage
at Quest (not to mention running out of
mulled wine!). Such shortages werent a
problem here.
A couple years ago, Cargo Bar owner
Rod Quinton gave me some insight into his
ambitions which had by then brought
Bob Dylan to Vietnam and put on SoundFest
Vietnam, the countrys biggest, most
Vietnamese festival to this day. Both were
very expensive, and Dylan taught Rod that
he couldnt do it alone.
When Coca-Cola and Samsung were
brought onto SoundFest, it was to do things
that the logistics here dont otherwise allow.
They brought K-pop superstars Big Bang over
for a six-song performance as well as a
whole slew of foreign production talent at
a cost of several billion VND. It takes a lot of
VND40,000 tickets to recoup that far more
than the 40,000 to 50,000 attendees bought.
And Loud Minoritys Damian Kilroy
admitted as much at the end of the
show. Before the obligatory thanks to
the performers, crowd and staff, Damian
said, Thanks to Budweiser whether
you like their sh*t or not, they make this
possible.
Anyway, the show was great. At one
point, Jagwar Mas lead singer said, Its
amazing to be in here. What a trip. I didnt
think in our wildest dreams that wed
be playing in THINKING PAUSE
Saigon. Haha, whatever. They didnt need
to say anything. The dubby, tropical bass
drops permeated this blissed-out crowd
(Come Save Me wow! This is a song that
you need to have your internal organs
subwoofed for!).
As a solid section of the crowd migrated
to The Observatorys new location next
door to see guitarist Jono Mas DJ set, the
clock hit midnight and we got a sense the
party would never end.
Saigon Comic Con 2014

Dec. 7
Just when I thought I had an understanding
of the Vietnamese festival, Saigon Comic Con
threw me a curveball. Sexy Mario and Luigi
tend to have that effect on people.
At the Star Movies HD booth, two lanky
Vietnamese dudes were dressed in oversized
Captain America and Iron Man costumes.
They challenged passersby to feats of
strength, like arm wrestling and sumo. A
schoolgirl wandered by and somehow pulled
Captain America out of his circle, winning a
bit of branded swag. She was not in costume.
We finally found our way inside. This is
where the concourse was, where most of the
cosplayers hung out, met fans and posed for
pictures.
This was the real heart of the festival, the
real soul and gears the kids who arent
paid, with nothing to promote except their
alter egos. They werent trying to build up
grassroots support for midnight airings of

Captain America: The Winter Soldier, they
were celebrating their favourite holiday,
the one in which they get to dress up in
fancy costumes.
It was Lady Thors first time in costume.
She said, I see this in the movie, so I
decided to be Lady Thor.
Shes with Deadpool whos totally my
favourite cosplay character, after I saw 20
Deadpools wreak havoc photo op-wise on
the floor of the New York Comic Con. They all
had that goofy, ironic streak, those long black
ovals around their eyes that made them look
like slow lorises. This Deadpool seemed to
have a similar sense of humour and the
fact that he couldnt speak any English but
could give the trademark double thumbs-up
just endeared me more.
I chatted with Lady Thor a bit, about
how much her friend loves Deadpool,
how she sewed both of their costumes and
about how excited they both were for this
This was the real

heart of the festival,
the real soul and gears
the kids who arent
paid, with nothing to
promote except their
alter egos
first-time-ever western comics dress-up

opportunity. Then a gang of rifle-toting
badasses demanded her attention. The
zombie-war militants posed them for a
photo, like real-life action figures Lady
Thor with hammer in mid-swing, Deadpool
holding his hands up in deadpan alarm.
And then there were the serious types.
The two super babes being posed by a
reflector-wielding photographer, leotard
on leotard, knife on gun. An arcane demon
bride, with an attendant following her,
holding up the tail of her wedding dress
another steadying the metal wing apparatus
strapped to her back. The pro cosplayers,
who pose for pictures all damn day.
Vani was dressed as Orlando Blooms
character from Lord of the Rings, alongside
her similarly dressed Team CAM cosplay
group teammate, with whom shed later do
battle onstage (she lost).
Were very excited that Ho Chi Minh
City has a comic con, she said. Some of
our members have been waiting a long time

for this. You see her she pointed to a
jubilant, light stick-holding Nightwing
shes so excited.
Ms. Fortune, from the League of Legends
online game, hails from Tay Ninh, 90km
northwest of Ho Chi Minh City. Shed come
to the city before for things like this she
and the friend cosplaying next to her are the
only Tay Ninh natives who are into this stuff.
At the festival, they found some kindred
spirits, not just in a vague sense. They
were actually sitting with 10 other League of
Legends cosplayers, who all love this stuff as
much as they do.
I think its in my blood, she said.
Whats Ms. Fortune like? I asked.
Shoot everybody, she said, smiling.
Shes a hunter.
And what did she think about the festival?
This festival is a place for everybody to
have friends, she said. This is the first time
that Vietnam has a festival like this.
Festival FYI
B EST F ESTIVAL S URPRISE
Flor de Caa rum on pour at Cargo Bar

my favourite rum in the world. So what
if they didnt have the seven-year?
B EST D RESSED
Tie between the professional

cosplayers of Team CAM, and my
Saigonese friends who came to Quest
with me, all dressed in matching wolf
T-shirts we had printed at a local shop.
Y OU W ILL N EVER B ELIEVE ...
Actually, youll likely believe everything

written here, unless youre one of
those distrustful, overly-scrutinising
types. But the setting for Quest was
pretty unbelievable deep grooves
reverberating off the mountains, skinnydipping in the sea.
insider
Au Co and her children
ARTS
NATIONAL
Standpoint Theories
When this music-dance-visuals collaboration enters its second life this year,
it will be in the service of something greater than the sum of its parts.
Words by Ed Weinberg. Illustrations provided by Trung Hoang
hen Standpoint Theories again

takes the stage at Ho Chi Minh
Citys Cargo Bar (7 Nguyen
Tat Thanh, Q4) this Jan. 9 to
Jan. 11 and at TBD dates in Danang,
Hue and Hanoi later this year it will
be in a much different form than in its
first run in November 2013. Back then, it
From the tale of Princess Lieu Hanh
was a dazzling experiment, a heady jam

session by some of Saigons most creative
creatives, testing the bounds of what they
could do in a room together. Now with
months of full-time preparation invested
and a fuller team assembled it feels like
all that potential is about to translate into
something lasting.
Like last rendition, the three pillars of the
performance are music, dance and visuals.
In the mix are superstar singer Le Cat Trong
Ly (54,000 Facebook likes, whoa!), electronic
band Space//Panther, members of hip hop
group The Love Below, dance punk band
James and the Van Der Beeks and live visual
collective L.A.V. Masterminded by dancer
Emily Navarra, the calibre of these separate
elements is as sharp as anything available in
Vietnam.
But this time, the collaboration is in the
service of something more ambitious than
experimentation. Illustrator Trung Hoang
is designing the visual backdrop based on
six Vietnamese legends, and everyone on
stage will be working at creating a visceral
environment for the transmission of these
myths.
To fully enjoy what will be one of

Vietnams most singular performances in
any form, it helps to have some background.
And so Word presents some background for
the myths that will be depicted.
Au Co, Mother of the Vietnamese

People
Au Co was the kindhearted mountain fairy
who married Lac Long Quan, a dragon
king from the sea, and gave birth to the
forebears of the modern Vietnamese people.
Despite their love, Au Co felt the pull of the
mountains and Lac Long Quan yearned for
the sea, so they split up their 100 children
and parted ways. The 50 that Au Co raised
in mountainous northern Vietnam became
the intelligent, strong leaders who would
rule Vietnam for the next 2,000 years.
Son Tinh, The God of Mountains,

and Thuy Tinh, The God of Water
This myth explains the practice of tidal
irrigation in Vietnamese farming and the
destructive floods of monsoon season.
In the story, Son Tinh and Thuy Tinh
are equally matched suitors for the hand
Son Tinh, The God of Mountains
of a beautiful daughter of the 18th Hong

Bang king. Since the king couldnt decide
between them, he decided to give his
daughter to the first man to bring over
a suitable wedding gift. When Son Tinh
arrived just moments before him and
spirited the girl away, Thuy Tinh was
furious.
Thuy Tinh chased after the happy couple,
summoning all the winds and rains he
could. But Son Tinh had magic of his own,
and raised himself and his new wife above
the flooding on a spontaneous mountain,
erecting dikes for the farmers caught in
between. Eventually Thuy Tinh gave up,
but to this day those on the floodplains still
suffer his eternal bitterness.
Princess Lieu Hanh, The Hungry

Ghost
This story of the mother goddess cult Dao
Mau bounces between heaven and earth.
Lieu Hanh was a daughter of the Jade
Emperor, banished from heaven in front
of a righteous man a man whod been
knocked unconscious during his wifes
pregnancy and somehow found himself in
the Heavenly Palace. This righteous man
went back to earth, and had a righteous
daughter. When that daughter died young
and went to heaven, she was granted the
title of Princess Lieu Hanh.
Lieu Hanh returned to earth on the
second anniversary of her death to see her
husband, and promise that they would one
day reunite. After that she wandered around

playing a flute, switching in appearance
between an old woman and a beautiful,
young woman, and punishing those who
teased her.
Later she met an orphan who she thought
was the incarnation of her now long-dead
husband. She gave him poetry, he fell in
love. They married and he became a great
scholar. Eventually it was time for her to
return to heaven, and she left her family
behind.
Nowadays, people sweep abandoned
graves on her death anniversary the
Pure Brightness Festival out of respect
to her, and feed hungry ghosts with their
offerings.
Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER
HANOI
Halia Hanoi
The Singaporean-inspired Halia is one of the few top-end restaurants on Xuan Dieu.
But with so much local competition, how is it matching up? Photos by David Harris
ts common knowledge that when it

comes to fusion cuisine, Vietnams
capital boasts some of the best crosspollinating kitchens in the country.
The mushrooming of bicultural eateries,
especially during the past decade, has
made fusion dining a staple of Hanois
culinary scene.
All of this has been good news for
Hanoian foodies who can now enjoy a
host of Asian-European cuisine and other
culinary mash-ups dished up by locally run
establishments such as Pots n Pots and a
host of foreign competitors.
Singaporean eatery Halia, or ginger
in Malay, has been a mainstay of Hanois
fusion scene since the christening of its first
overseas branch back in 2008. Not long
after, it was recognised as one of the top
eateries in the capital by the Miele Guide
and has since been a performer in the citys
TripAdvisor Top 10.
A unique marriage of European cooking
methodologies and distinct Asian flavours,
Halia has inked a spot on the culinary
map with favourites such as its chilli crab

spaghetti, rack of lamb with Japanese spices
and frozen ginger-nougat parfait. The threecourse lunch set, priced at VND300,000, has
also made it a popular choice with the citys
well-heeled power-lunchers.
Now located in a renovated townhouse
on Xuan Dieu, Halia has moved its
offerings to arguably one of the most
competitive culinary strips in Hanoi.
Located within a stones throw of Highway
Four and around the corner from the
mushrooming culinary strip of Quang An,
Halia has picked a tough battle among a
fierce batch of competitors.
The Experience
The new digs are impressive. A refined
faade of black tiling and wall-mounted
blossoms flow into a warm entryway where
the restaurants bar is located. As you walk
in, black-attired waiters greet you with a
warm smile and lead you into an opulent
dining room of bronze couches and dark
timber furniture.
With a table boasting an impressive

view of West Lake, our attentive waitress
placed complimentary glasses of mulled
wine on our table and ceremoniously began
explaining the evening specials. Sipping
our tasty mulled wines, we flicked through
the pages of our leather-bound menus,
allowing the wine to warm our windbattered bodies.
To start, we opted for the whole roasted
baby pumpkin stuffed with roasted
eggplant, seasonal mushrooms and
toasted almond flakes (VND120,000). Each
steaming mouthful was succulent and
moist, while the almonds added a nice
crunch to the otherwise soft texture.
After whisking away our empty plates, an
immaculate platter of chestnut-stuffed duck
breast and nem vui (VND300,000) arrived
almost instantly. A rich mote of vincotto
sauce was the perfect accompaniment to
the succulent duck breast and white wine
poached pear. A dollop of cherry tomato
confit added a pleasant dash of tangy
flavours to balance out the dish.
THE VERDICT
13
FOOD
12
SERVICE
13
DCOR
Resisting the allure of Halias infamous

ginger nougat parfait (VND100,000), we
ordered the intriguing pandan crme brulee
with sweet attap palm seed (VND90,000).
The greenish crme brulee ceiling gave
a satisfying crack as we savoured the
subtle tastes of pandan and palm seed that
complimented the sweet caramel flavour.
Combined with a scoop of tasty coconut ice
cream and chunks of fresh mango, the dessert
was a fitting end to the delicious meal.
There are plenty of creative and
indulgent options to satisfy even the most
sophisticated palette, ranging from panseared river fish with mushroom ragout
and chorizo (VND280,000), to oxtail pot pie
(VND450,000). The service is also top-notch,
with the international waiting staff trained at
Halias flagship outlet in Singapore.
While the prices might seem a little steep,
the amazing service and thoughtful cuisine
make Halia a compelling choice for special
occasions.
Halia Hanoi is at 29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Hanoi
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
Food & drink
STREET SNACKER
HANOI
Pho Ga
Despite being a Hanoi staple, little has been written about pho ga.
Huyen Tran goes back to basics. Photos by Julie Vola
was surprised when our chief editor

told me that we had not yet covered a
full story on pho ga Hanoi chicken
noodles. To me, pho ga is one of the
most basic staple dishes available in local
street food. And that makes people food
writers like me think that it must have been
written about long ago. Yet it hasnt.
To Hanoians, eating pho ga is part of the
daily routine. Served for breakfast, its also
great for a quick lunch when you have
to rush back to work. Or if you skip your
lunch and find yourself craving food midafternoon, nothing is better than having a
steaming bowl of pho ga sat in front of you!
Ive even enjoyed it while out riding my
bike in the cold of night its the kind of
dish you can grab at a street-side noodle
stall. As Hanoians can eat pho ga all day (and
all night), people consider it a basic part of
their life its almost taken for granted.
However, when it comes to perfecting the
taste, it is not that simple to excel at this
simple dish.
Living Legend
Although good pho ga eateries can be found
everywhere in the capital, for me, one in
particular is a standout Pho Ga Ba Lam.
Just off the junction of Nam Ngu and Phan
Boi Chau, it is the joint close to the legendary
Pho Bo Kiem, the beef noodle joint that
many feel sells the most addictive bowl of
soup in Hanoi.
In the 1980s, Pho Ga Ba Lam was a wellknown destination in Hanoi. At that time,
it was a privilege if someone invited you to
go to Pho Ga Ba Lam, wrote the acclaimed
Vietnamese writer, Nguyen Quang Thieu.
Grandma Lam, the eatery owner and
chef, was a sophisticated dresser her
appearance represented the elegance of the
Trang An people, the old name used for the
people of Hanoi. It was her who created the
recipe that made her eatery famous.
Major international newspapers,
including CBS and CNN rushed to Hanoi for
[her pho] continues Thieu. I even saw the
photos of Pho Ga Ba Lam on their panels,
shirts and cameras. It not only made the

eatery proud, but during this period it made
Hanoians proud, too.
Then grandma Lam passed away. Her
daughters inherited the family business.
People kept looking for the soul and the
spirit of the dish that their mother created,
but they ended up in regret says the
writer.
That is the opinion of many from my
grandparents generation. But for youngsters
of my age and many other Hanoians, Pho
Ga Ba Lam still keeps the traditional taste of
chicken noodles.
The Remains of the Day

Walking down Nam Ngu, the small eatery at
No. 7 is opposite a classy Western restaurant.
Yet it remains traditional. The eatery
welcomes diners inside by its large-sized
pots of broth and old-style charcoal briquette
stove, a table displaying the chicken meat
and noodles, and a middle-aged lady sitting
next to the table.
The shop is filled with Hanoi old-style

ambience. The green window near the table
is spotted with dust, the yellow-painted
walls match up with French-style bricks on
the floor. On the walls hang old certificates
given by the Hanoi authorities of yesteryear,
and next to them is a photo frame with two
fading newspaper clippings. This picture is
the eaterys pride and joy.
It is 40 years since the day my mum first
opened the eatery, says grandma Lams
oldest daughter. It is named after her and
after she passed away, we four siblings
began to run this shop as an asset from our
mum.
She continues: My mum was very strict
about how you cook pho ga. We cannot
make it the same as her. But I try to keep the
core ingredient standards. For instance, the
major element is we have to choose good
Vietnamese chickens, which are raised in
countryside. It is a failure if the chicken
meat is fatty and loose like Chinese chicken.
The chicken meat must be soft. It is rich in
taste, and sweet when you chew. Vietnamese
countrysides chickens have a very gentle
fragrance when boiling! We buy chicken
from Phu Tho Province.
A delicious bowl of pho ga must have a
sweet, but light broth, with shining chicken
fat, chopped green spring onions, and must
be topped with fresh onion with green leaves
together and the bulb soaked in boiling
water.
Coming to the eatery around midafternoon, you may see lots of freshly boiled
chicken displayed on the table. The chickens
are prepared the day before so they can be
served the next day. Some people even order
chicken organs for their noodle soup. Others
deliberately head to the eatery late afternoon
to eat the chicken feet as a snack.
Nothing is wasted here, she laughs.
Pho Ga Ba Lam is at 7 Nam Ngu, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi. The eatery opens from early
morning until 7.30pm and a bowl of pho ga costs
VND35,000. Don't be mistaken by the next-door
beef noodle shop with big signage at No. 9
Food & drink
MYSTERY DINER
HCMC
La Bettola
Our anonymous food reviewer heads to an Italian thats been receiving good reviews.
But will it get the same feedback under a different spotlight? Photos by Kyle Phanroy
f I had to pick one style of cuisine to

eat daily for the rest of my life, Italian
would be it. The variety, from hearty
peasant simplicity to haute Michelin
perfectionism; the range of ingredients
and flavours; the vivid colours; the
regional specialties. They all speak to me.
Like many Italian restaurants, La Bettola
doesnt focus, but offers a sitting gastro-tour
of Italy from Val dAosta to Puglia. Opened
in May 2014 by owners Nguyen Thi Kim
Hanh and Giuseppe Amorello, and steered
by chef Giuseppe, La Bettola lies under the
shadow of Bitexco Tower, amid a bubble of
higher-end restaurants.
Id heard good things from friends, seen
some good comments online, and thrilled to
try another interpretation of my favourite
cuisine.
A Question of Choice
Some problems you wish happened more,
like poring over the menu for the fourth
time because too many choices beckon.
That menu seduced me dishes I
hadnt seen since the last time Id visited
Italy, ingredients rarer than snow in
Vietnam, enough to reach any taste, yet not
overstretched.
The wine list ran for pages, with countryspanning selections, but I wondered why
the cocktail and spirits section omitted
drinks like grappa and limoncello that are
synonymous with Italy and which Id
seen in the downstairs bar.
Finalizing our order took ages. My dining

companion and I settled on the flagship
appetizer La Bettola (VND280,000),
a bchamel and Bolognese lasagna
(VND225,000), and beef filet with truffle
sauce (VND480,000). To complement this
luxury, we needed a bold, cleansing wine,
and we both chose one of three house reds, a
sangiovese blend (VND120,000 per glass).
Finding Balance
The bread basket and the speed at which
it arrived impressed me, and we dipped
breadsticks and baguette chunks in the
herb-laden oil and vinegar.
My friend gaped at her first taste of the
sangiovese, a classic pan-Italian grape
made into wines from the toe to the Po.
Earthy, with nice tannins and a sparkling
acidity, its bouquet alone was dizzying. For
a house wine, this was a good choice.
The palate-washing tartness would
prove essential later.
Waiters whisked our appetizer La
Bettola in shortly, a substantial board of
rosemary focaccia, roasted, paper-thin
pork, arugula and cherry tomatoes. The
focaccia gleamed with crystals of sea-salt
that over-dominated all the other flavours.
Some flavours need a lighter touch, and
with the salt brushed off, it became a wellcrafted appetizer simple ingredients
melded into a complex experience of taste
and texture.
Our entrees arrived simultaneously, to
the kitchens credit, though the plating and

presentation lacked flair.
Lavish, dense, the generous portions
of rare filet and truffle sauce were almost
overwhelming, but the wine kept it from
clogging my mouth. Ignoring the soggy
potatoes and black-crisped onions, we
focused on the imported beef, and with a
touch of salt and a brush of pepper, found
its balance: where all flavours worked in
harmony.
The lasagna came imbalanced somewhat
differently half roasted coffee brown,
half perfect bubbling gold cheese and
ivory bechamel. Something I love about la
cucina Italiana is the fresh, al dente pasta.
Unfortunately these oversoft noodles
didnt provide enough foundation for the
smooth flavors of bechamel, cheese and
tomato-meat sauce.
Stuffed, we opted for dessert, and
here La Bettola delivered. Like a lemoninfused crme brulee, the Crema Catalanas
(VND115,000) flavours were tuned to
perfection, the zesty lemon fading into the
sweet, the seared sugar crust crackling in
the crema. We must have been among the
last to try it, since regular crme brulee
replaced it on the menu just recently.
The chocolate gelato (VND40,000)
seemed to be just ice cream. Gelato, made
from milk, is denser and carries complex
flavours better than its cream-based cousin.
Still, it tasted fine.
And there it was; the ingredients were
THE VERDICT
10
FOOD
fine. That night, however, something in the

kitchen wasnt hitting prime time.
A Good Experience But

Neither was the decor; a confused mlange
of Italian city-views run through Photoshop
so they resembled charcoal sketches on one
wall and a wavy, modernist texturing on the
other, with odd hanging lights. The scuffed
walls and streaky window needed a good,
regular scrubbing.
The waiters hovered in and out of my
peripheral vision, as if unsure whether to
approach. When they did, they gave good
service with excellent manners.
The worst blot on the evening was not
La Bettolas fault sitting next to a table
of screaming drunks destroys serenity and
romance.
Just an off night, perhaps. It felt like
being on the shakedown voyage of a luxury
cruise: all the pieces assembled, but not yet
working with effortless efficiency.
La Bettola didnt exactly disappoint
where it counted the food but hardly
did it dazzle, and the rest could be much
improved, especially when dinner for two
can hit well over VND2 million with wine.
Yet I enjoyed myself. Part of the fun of
top-end dining is the novelty, which means
the occasional bumpy night. Still, with so
many other choices nearby, Id want to
know theyd sorted their system before I
return on my own dime
La Bettola is at 84 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Ho Chi
Minh City
11
SERVICE
DCOR
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
Food & drink

STREET SNACKER
HCMC
The Best Bo Kho

in Saigon
Beef stew for breakfast, lunch and dinner? Lets do this. Simon Stanley scours
Saigons backstreets in search of the citys best bo kho. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
nother delicious reminder of

Frances hand in Vietnamese
cuisine, bo kho (braised beef)
is a distant cousin of the classic
boeuf bourguignon. This complex dish
sees morsels of beef stewed for hour
upon hour alongside herbs and spices

of both French and Vietnamese descent.
Star anise, coriander seeds, lemongrass,
cinnamon its all in there. Served with
banh mi or poured over noodles, think
pho bo on steroids. The thick aromatic
broth bursts with flavour, enveloping

hunger-busting chunks of carrot, fresh
basil leaves and the oh-so-tender meat.
Grab your spoon and napkin as we go
Goldilocks on the ultimate in Vietnamese
comfort food.
The Lady in the Alleyway
Pho or Kho?
Corner of Hem 57, Nguyen Thong, Q3

This looks more like soup than bo kho way too much gravy, not
enough beef. Lacking carrots, a plate of bean sprouts helps bulk
it out. Its 11am and the scattering of discarded lime peels on the
ground suggests weve missed the party. I suspect were sampling
the leftovers of something much better. Despite our tardiness,
it tastes very good. The stock is thick and bold and the meat is
beautifully tender if slightly fatty (as one should expect). The
banh mi is faultless still fresh and fluffy. At only VND20,000 a
portion, well be back.
7/10 Timing is everything
Bo Kho Ut Nhung, 109/7 Nguyen Thien Thuat, Q3

Serving pho bo until 11am, bo kho makes its entrance here at around 1pm.
Unfortunately, our inkling is that were looking at a revamped version of
the mornings pho. While its fresh and flavoursome, the broth is noticeably
light, lacking that oomph and gravy-like consistency Id expected. There
is plenty of good quality beef, but its thinly sliced and Im missing that
slow-cooked texture. It reminds me of my mums Sunday roast.
At 12.50pm, I think were too early the meat and flavours
havent yet stewed properly. The empty tables around us say the
locals might agree. VND35,000 a go.
6.5/10 Simmering with potential
A Waiting Game
The Outsider
Hem 194, Vo Van Tan, Q3

We pull up to find an empty food-cart standing alone in this narrow
alleyway. Too early? Too late? Its just after 1pm and it could go either
way. Three oclock! comes a voice from an open window to a clang
of pots and pans. Now it really is like waiting for mums roast.
We kick a ball about for two hours and return. It was worth the
wait. Served with a smile and plenty of carrots, Im taken back to
the hearty stews of a British winter. Packing some mighty flavours,
theres also a hint of warming spiciness.
And the beef? Perfection. Very little fat. It peels and falls apart
beautifully. VND35,000.
9.5/10 Empty bowls all round
70 Vu Huy Tan, Binh Thanh

This place was not on our itinerary. Wed had high hopes for a
nearby pavement vendor that were dashed by MSG cramps and
disappointment. Luckily we spot a pho and bo kho joint round the
corner and duck in to try our luck. It pays off.
The broth is delicious. Clearly homemade, the presence of star
anise is more noticeable than other offerings around the city. It tastes
old-fashioned, traditional.
Unfortunately the dish as a whole is a little too traditional for our
tastes the large amount of fat and gristle surrounding the beef
leaves our bowls looking shamefully untouched. VND 30,000.
6.5/10 Great broth, great bread... so close
The Winner
welcome layer of heat lingers in the background. And carrots,

too! Thumbs up so far.
It all hangs on the beef theres lots of it and Im not seeing
much fat at all. Wow. And we have our winner.
Out-of-this-world tender and loaded with flavour. The best yet.
VND33,000.
10/10 Goldilocks wants seconds
Ba Nam opens at 7am and sells out fast. Arrive before 10am to avoid
disappointment
Ba Nam, Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong, Q10

As a family affair operating since before 1975, it really is
like going back in time here. Ancient apartment blocks loom
overhead, chickens scurry at your feet and giant vats of the good
stuff bubble away beneath a faded tarpaulin. Accompanying a
warm banh mi, the bo kho arrives and I dive in to my sixth bowl in
two days.
The broth is deep, complex and hits all the right notes. A
fashion
A NEW
SKATE OF MIND
Modeling by Henry Tran
Clothing by Bam Skate Shop (174 Bui Vien,
Q1, HCMC)
When it comes to Vietnams skate kids, skating is a lifetime commitment. Every afternoon in Ho Chi
Minh City, youll see them on the sidewalk on Le Duan, in 23/9 Park and of course at Saigon
Outcast, where this session was captured.
Although skate style has become tied in with indie fashion, for these guys its all about the practical
applications. When we asked Henry to change into another outfit, he said, Nah, Im comfortable
like this until we repeated that it was actually a fashion shoot. And thats the true essence of the
style, with clothes just there to catch the wind.
Winter
in Hanoi
A change in the weather ushers in a change
in the fashion. And with temperatures
starting to dip, time to get out the winter
clothing
Shirt VND195,000 | Pants VND450,000
Shirt VND220,000 | Shorts VND320,000
Amy
Jacket, shirt and pants
from
Kilometer
109
| Silver bracelet from

Emporium, VND1,300,000
| Shoes from Emporium,
VND800,000
Laurinda
Jumpsuit from Kilometer
109
Bracelet
from
Emporium
Shoes VND850,000 | Pants VND450,000
Shirt VND390,000 | Pants VND450,000
Hat VND250,000 | Shirt VND350,000 | Pants VND490,000
travel
TRAVEL
INTERNATIONAL
Hokkaido Dreams
Where To Stay
I N S APPORO : H OTEL C LUBBY S APPORO
Hotel Clubby is a centrally-located hotel,

right across from the ivy-covered brick
building that housed the first Sapporo beer
brewery. Their concept is in rooms with about
50 percent more space than your average
Sapporo hotel room, at similar rates. I had
space to do my morning yoga routine, which
I consider a win. The breakfast buffet was
also tremendous.
For more info or to book a stay, go to
sapporofactory.jp/clubby
I N L AKE T OYA : T OYA S ANSUI H OTEL K AFU
Unless youre a volcanic seismologist or

someone who was supposed to attend the
2008 G8 Summit but is very late, youre
probably going to Lake Toya to relax. In
that case, I can heartily recommend Toya
Sansui Hotel Kafu. Everyone was really nice,
in typical ryokan style it felt more like
staying at a relatives house than a hotel.
They have two sex-separated onsen areas,
which switch sides at 9pm nightly so you can
experience both.
The lobby has an easy elegance, like
something out of a 1980s magazine ad for a
cigarette. Everywhere people are subdued,
wearing their yukatas, quietly chatting. A man
with big boxy sunglasses takes a picture of
two pumpkins sitting beneath a side table.
Rays of light stream through the curtain of
trees outside the lobbys picture window. Its
enough to make you think the morning will
never end, the easy rays of light will continue
to fall in increasingly charming angles.
Their real site is sansui-hotel.com, but
you non-Japanese speakers are better
off trying ryokan.or.jp/english/yado/
main/03430
Ed Weinberg has had enough of crazy Asian cities.

Heading up to Hokkaido, in the north of Japan,
he found the cure
ts been a tiring overnight trip on the

shinkonsen bullet train, but the whoosh
of mountain air puts a spring back
in my step. Its fall. The leaves in
Hokkaido are still in the early stages of
dying, turning that mottled golden colour
that fills the lanes of Hokkaido University
with amateur photographers.
Akiko turns up, just in time to prevent me
from making the culinary mistake Ill later

make anyway eating the squid saucecoated, black-bunned Halloween burger at
McDonalds.
The Sapporo Ski Jump

First off, we head to the gondola ride up
Sapporos Olympic hill. Its a good point
to begin my initiation. Looking down on
the well-planned grid, I get a sense of this

pioneered city, which remains less in the
thrall of its layers of history than in the clean
nature that surrounds it.
Old timers still think of the 1972 Winter
Olympics every time Sapporo is mentioned.
Now, the downhill portion is a popular
tourist attraction, with the bright blue lift
chairs taking smiling tourists (they smile at
Akikos three-year-old son Kazu, in the seat
in front of me, before their smile carries over
to me) up to a glassed-in, ice cream-selling
observatory. Kazu spots large bugs that hes
never seen in Saigon, walking on the inside
of the windows. In the InterCon Residences
hes been raised in for most of his three
years, stripy bugs like these are a rarity.
A Short History of
Rock-Paper-Scissors
According to Wikipedia, the game dates
back to Han Dynasty era China (206
BC 220 AD), where it was called
shoushiling hand command. The
three throws switched around a bit upon its
import to Japan, where it started
Snake > Slug > Frog > Snake
before eventually settling into its
modern shape in the late 19th century.
While the jeu Japanois spread through
Europe and the US in the 1920s and
1930s, it is now used to decide court
cases (see 2006 Florida case Avista
Management v. Wausau Underwriters)
and peacefully settle disputes as to who
sits in the middle car seat.
The Japanese version, ever ahead of
the game, is now featured in a strip-poker
type variant called yakyuken, which has
become a minor part of the local porn
culture.
D RAWING : From left to right: slug
(namekuji), frog (kawazu) and snake (hebi)
The Perfect Pour

The Sapporo tour guides were methodical
about their three-minute pours in fact,
the draught taps had a half-step for
unleashing the 30 percent straight foam
that crowns a perfect pour. From the can,
here are the steps to follow:
1 ST S TEP : Pour beer from a decent
height, until the foam reaches the 60

percent level.
2 ND S TEP : Wait until the ration of foam
and beer reaches 50/50. Holding the beer

close, pour until the foam reaches the 90
percent point on the glass.
3 RD S TEP : Let the
foam settle again,

and pour slowly until
the beer/foam split is
70/30. The beer should
reach the horizontal
line of the glasss
Sapporo star, while the
foam crests over the
rim of the glass in an
iceberg-like tip.
The Sapporo Beer Factory

Unlike the Vietnamese Sapporo factory in
Long An Province, the factory in Hokkaido
is set up for touring with crates even
laid out in the trademark star shape on
the production floor. Wall-fastened lamps
backlight the clean lines of the corridors,
orange-tinted halogen gives the production
floor that industrial parking lot feel.
We see the seamer the machine that
seams the can lids onto the cans whirring
at full-speed. Our guide points to a wall with
an endless stack of Sapporo cans in front
thats how many cans it seams up in a
minute, 900.
Taking a can in two pieces, she opens a
glass case onto a mini-seamer, spinning it
to life in front of us. She takes out a cute,
freshly-seamed coin bank, which we will
later rock-paper-scissors for.
Were served a glass of the Black Label
variety, with a beautiful two-finger width

head the perfect Black Label creamy,
clear, cold. Then our guide sets us on each
other at rock-paper-scissors called janken
in Japan, the land of its modern origin. I
win and get the can coin bank. My secret:
mishear the Japanese language prompt and
keep my hand balled up in rock form.
Eruption Bay
We drive out to Lake Toya. The leaves are
changing, the wooded mountains roll past.
The water swirls in this vacation caldera.
The dormant volcanoes vent for holiday
photographers.
We take the Usuzan Ropeway to the
top of Mt. Usu. From the mountaintop,
the changing colours of the leaves give
the mountains a living texture, rippling
through golf courses and roads like
What To Do
IN SAPPORO: THE SAPPORO BEER GARDEN
used to cook their food.

For more info, go to sapporo-biergarten.jp
I N S APPORO : S APPORO C ITIZENS D ISASTER

P REVENTION C ENTER
bit, and my animal instinct kicked in. I was

frightened. When I made it out, I felt Id
survived something.
For more info, go to city.sapporo.jp/
shobo/tenji
I N S APPORO : M OERENUMA P ARK
lot of other stuff like this sculpture park

that took 17 years to complete. And its
breathtaking.
For more info, go to sapporo-park.or.jp/
moere
I N L AKE T OYA : T HE U SUZAN R OPEWAY
gondola ride to its summit, and except for

the steam venting up in picturesque valleys,
things were relatively calm and wondrous.
For more info, go to wakasaresort.com/
usuzan
The Sapporo Museum is just the preamble.

Take it all in, then get ready to eat some
serious lamb.
Theyll give you a plastic bag for your
jacket as good as the lamb smells now,
you should use it. The delicacy is called
jingisukan Genghis Khan rumoured
to be so-named because it was the meat
of choice among Mongolian soldiers.
The dome-shaped skillet is meant to the
soldiers helmets, which they supposedly
Akiko wanted to show me what an

earthquake feels like, so we went to
the disaster museum. We sat in a fake
living room balanced on a mechanical
platform, then the attendant dialed up the
9.0-magnitude 2011 Tohoku earthquake
the fourth most powerful earthquake in
recorded history. The couches we were
sitting on shook a lot. I tried standing up,
and sat back down. Apparently thats not a
good idea.
I went into the Smoke Evacuation
Simulation Corner next, solo. Vapour was
pumped in, as I stayed low and clung to
the walls. My flashlight started dying but I
didnt know, I just thought the smoke was
super thick. I couldnt find my way for a
veins. They frame the seismic red rock of

Mt. Showa Sin-zan, a beautiful coat the
mountain will shed in the next eruption.
Even the colours, like slow-motion fire,
burn like the heat vacationers otherwise
seek to harness in this resort place of hot
cocoa and onsens.
We Eat Sushi
Back in Sapporo, the Nagoyaka Tei
conveyor-belt sushi restaurant has the
best sushi Ive ever eaten: supple, buttery,
perfectly-balanced and whatever other
good sushi adjectives you can throw at it.
Akiko says, Salmon eggs are a speciality
of Hokkaido.
You say everything is a speciality of
Hokkaido! I counter.
Thats right, Akiko says, undeterred,
because Hokkaido is a seafood paradise.
Once upon a time, Japanese-American

Isamu Noguchi built those amoebalooking glass tables that were really
cutting edge in the 1950s. He also built a
People travel to Lake Toya to take in the
hot springs and the natural beauty that
produces them all in Japans first
geopark, Toya Caldera, and Usu Volcano
Geopark.
This is where Fusakichi Omori pioneered
the study of volcanic seismology
correlating minor earth tremors to future
volcanic potential. Much of his work led into
the latter-day discovery of plate tectonics.
Theres a pretty convenient statue photo-op
on the side of the boiling sister volcano to
Mt. Usu, the Showa Sin-zan lava dome.
Mt. Usu last went off in 2000. We took the
22.5 Ho
urs in S
eoul
TRAVEL
INTERN
ATIONA
L
A decad
e
on a sto -long resident
pover to
of
North A South Korea,
returne
meric
d to the
capital t a Glen Riley
through
o
differen look at it
t eyes
Jogye Temple, Insadong
ts been more than a year since Ive

revisited Korea and its the first time
as a tourist. With a long stopover at the
ready before my winter trip to Canada,
I decided on a challenge to see as much
of Seoul as possible in twenty-two-and-ahalf hours.
Knowing I could only scratch the surface
of the photography gold that the metropolis
has to offer, together with a photo pal I
pushed straight into the heart of the city
Dongdaemun and Insadong. Both areas still
retain UNESCO sites and generation-old
shops. Yet they are nestled between modern
towers of glass and steel, the structures that
have swallowed up the Seoul I once knew.
For anyone looking at the struggles
Vietnam is going through with modern
versus old, todays architecture versus that
of the past, Seoul is a lesson. Despite the
space-age look of the 21st century Asian city,
theyve managed to maintain a strong sense
of the past, and a strong sense of the culture
that makes this city unique.
3
1. Dumplings steaming
2. Doors of Jogye Temple, Insadong
3. Dumpling stand in Insadong
4. Cheongyecheon River
5. The most wired country on earth
6. Lantern advertising
7. Steamed acorns on the street
8. A nation so wired the coffee cue buzzers have TVs
1. One of hundreds of department stores

that populate the city of Seoul
2. 1am on the streets of Dongdaemun
3. Drying cabbage for soup and side dishes
4. Random street-art found
all over downtown Seoul
5. Museum and Centre For Arts and Culture
Getting There
The likes of Asian Airlines, Korean Air
and Vietnam Airlines run direct flights
from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh
City to Seoul. Return flights start at
around US$500 (VND10.5 million).
For a budget option, VietJetAir
launched direct flights from Hanoi in
the summer of 2014.
travel
TRAVEL
INTERNATIONAL
Art in Singapore
A trip to the Gillman Barracks reveals what is likely the most astonishing collection of
contemporary art in Southeast Asia. Words by Nick Ross. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
ts been raining, not heavily, but

enough to dampen the high spirits of
our trip to Singapore. Yet as we get
out of the car, the grey skies seem to
dissipate. We are stunned. Singapore has
a fair share of converted former army
barracks and hill forts, but nothing has
prepared us for what we see in Gillman
Barracks.
Built in 1936 to accommodate the
expansion of the British infantry, with
independence the site was taken over by the
Singapore Armed Forces. Despite the army
vacating the hilly, jungle-like outpost in the
1990s, it was only in 2012 that the barracks

were developed into what they are today
a lush, green, 6.4-hectare contemporary art
space.
It is this art, joined with the workmanlike
colonial architecture of the era as well as the
surrounding greenery that greets us as we
descend the car, that makes jaws fall open
and eyes pop.
Yet as we take a guided walk around
the area it is massive see the public
art and wander through a number of the
17 contemporary art galleries, it is the
grandeur of Gillman that begins to astound
us. I am well-travelled, but never have I

seen somewhere so colossal and in such an
environment devoted purely to art.
The Art Drive

The first gallery we enter is at Number One
Lock Road Yeo Workshop. The brainchild
of Sothebys Institute graduate Audrey Yeo,
a former founding partner of Galerie 8 in
Londons Hackney, the Yeo Workshop is one
of only two Singaporean-owned galleries in
the barracks. Here Audrey is not just actively
trying to sell art she is presently hosting
a five-artist exhibition called Ad Hoc shes
(Left) One of the palimpsests by awardwinning Chinese artist Sun Xun, on display
at Shanghart Gallery; (Below) A work of
public art in the creation process - part of the
Drive project; (Right) The inside of the Yeo
Workshop during the September exhibition,
Ad Hoc; (Bottom Right) A work of completed
public art on display in Gillman Barracks
It is this art, joined

with the workmanlike
colonial architecture
of the era as well
as the surrounding
greenery that
makes jaws fall open
and eyes pop
also trying to promote art to everyday

Singaporeans.
At the time we meet her she is working
on a project called Drive (artdrive.com.sg), a
public art festival designed to coincide with
the second-year anniversary of Gillman
Barracks and Singapore Art Week in January
2015. It is this festival that has created the
outdoor artworks we see as we gradually
make our way around the complex.
The project came from a need to
respond to what was going on in Gillman
Barracks, she explains. There is a wealth
of knowledge here and we have a lot of
artists around making work, but the general
public is not privy to this. In Singapore
there is a bit of a gap in terms of what
people know about culture, or how to even
relate to culture. This is where Drive is
concentrated. So I thought it would be great
to make the art here available for everybody

else.
The concept of Drive was to search for
artists to create public works of art that
would be displayed on the walls of the
barracks. This would then be interlinked
with art walks the opportunity for
everyday people to be guided around the
site artist talks, workshops and talks by
well-known critics. The project ends this
month with a prize-giving ceremony on
Jan. 23.
However, as Audrey readily admits,
finding artists for the project was difficult.
Artists in Singapore, she says, want to be
paid. Yet a project like Drive is a Kickstarter
project, only existing because of sponsors.
There is no direct financial benefit.
This is not a profitable thing to do, she
explains.
Sun Xun, Pintaldi and Leibovitz

As our art walk starts, the skies open again.
We find shelter in a covered walkway and
then stick close to the walls of the various
galleries. We then enter one of the sites
main buildings and peer into Pearl Lam
Gallery. We are entranced.
Running a group exhibition of six
Chinese artists Lan Zhenghui, Qiu
Deshu, Qin Yufen, Wang Dongling, Wang
Tiande and Zhang Wei suddenly Im
viewing the type and quality of art that
I rarely see in Vietnam. Titled The Art of
Line: Contemporary Chinese Ink and Brush,
it is easy to see how the Pearl Lam Gallery
is attracting buyers. The curation, the
mystique, the black-and-white ink works
mixed with works in colour. Were only
supposed to be taking a glance, but myself
and our photographer are getting sucked in.
Next door, the Shanghart Gallery is
equally entrancing, with its 23 palimpsests
collection by award-winning Chinese
artist Sun Xun. And as we move on
through the complex, other exhibitions
catch my eye. The Cristiano Pintaldi
exhibition Suspended Animations, with
his recreation of the scientific process on
canvas, is startling, and almost opposite
we stumble upon an Annie Leibovitz
exhibition at the Sundaram Tagore gallery,
(Above and Left) Work from Suspended

Animations by Cristiano Pintaldi. On display at
Partners and Mucciaccia; (Top Right) The Art
of Line at Pearl Lam Gallery; (Bottom Right)
An image from the Annie Leibovitz exhibition
at Sundaram Tagore
giving me the chance to see close up the

work of perhaps my favourite portrait
photographer.
Nothing has prepared us for this
we quite simply had no idea. But were
being rushed on by our guides. We have
other places to go, other things to see.
Fortunately we manage to delay our
itinerary and later we get to see more of
the public art. That, too, makes us think. I
could stay here all day and come back the
next.
The Market
What creates this space is the growing
art market in Singapore. Its not just
Singaporeans who are collecting, but
Americans, Italians, Japanese and French.
People from everywhere. The Lion City,
and in particular Gillman Barracks, is
becoming a Southeast Asian hub for art.

Audrey Yeo agrees.
Singapore is an international port so
we are very different from the rest of the
region, she says. People know we are
not like Vietnam or Indonesia, where they
can get something really special. They
understand that there are all kinds of
different people living here, and there will
be all types of art production. You have to
be quite adventurous to live somewhere
like Vietnam. Its the same with art. Some
people just arent adventurous enough to go
to Jakarta or Manila. So they come here to
pick up their works.
For more information on the Gillman
Barracks and their various exhibitions, head to
gillmanbarracks.com. To find out more about
the various talks and events associated with the
barracks, click on arnoldiiartsclub.com
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$
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Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat,
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Located near the Dalat Train
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TRUNG CANG HOTEL
$
22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 2663
AROUND HANOI
BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER
HOTEL
$$$
KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong
Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031)
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BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY
$$$
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Experience breathtaking
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maichau.ecolodge.asia
Occupies a private hill in Na
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MAI CHAU LODGE
$$$
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NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY
$$
Ha Long Road, Bai Chay
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Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu,
Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249
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contact@tamcocgarden.
com
tamcocgarden.com
Surrounded by rice fields
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Tam Coc Garden is a haven

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Spacious rooms with rustic
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mountains. The perfect place
to relax.
HANOI - INTERNATIONAL
CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL
$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 6270 6688
crowneplazawesthanoi.com
This premier five-star
property lies beside the My
Dinh National Stadium and
Convention Centre. Boasts
two swimming pools, a spa,
and a fitness centre in its 24
stories.
DAEWOO HOTEL
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3831 5555
www.hanoi-daewoohotel.
com
This enormous structure
offers the most modern of
amenities, and with four
restaurants and two bars,
the events staff is well
equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National
Convention Center, and a
favourite of the business
traveller, Daewoo even
boasts an outdoor driving
range. Shortly to become a
Marriot property.
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI

6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3831 3333
www.fortuna.vn
This 350-room four-star set
up in the heart of Hanois financial district has a variety
of rooms on offer, a capital
lounge and three restaurants that serve Japanese,
Chinese and international
cuisine. And like youd expect, theres a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a
separate spa and treatment
facility for men and women.
Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business
deals on rooms and spaces
to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.
HOTEL DE LOPERA
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
Resting just a step away
from the Opera House, the
hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.
The first boutique five star
in the heart of Hanoi, the
lavish, uniquely designed
107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and
are complimented by two
restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.
HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI

20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944
9396
hanoi.hgi.com
With 86 fully-equipped
guestrooms and suites, this
is the first Hilton Garden
Inn property in Southeast
Asia. Centrally located and
a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel
offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with
complimentary business and
fitness centres making it
perfect for the international
business or leisure traveller.
HILTON HANOI OPERA

1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500
hanoi.hilton.com
Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short
stroll from the Old Quarter,
this five-star hotel is a Hanoi
landmark. With 269 fullyequipped rooms and suites,
theres plenty for the discerning business and leisure
traveller to choose from.
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI
WESTLAKE
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6270 8888
www.hanoi.intercontinental.
com
This stunning property built
over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.
Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable,
top-end accommodation and
all the mod-cons make up the
mix here together with the
resorts three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar,
a watering hole located on a
thoroughfare over the lake.
Great gym and health club.
JW MARRIOTT HANOI
8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu
Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833
5588
jwmarriotthanoi.com
From the expressive architecture outside to the
authentic signature JW
Marriott services inside,
this Marriott hotel in Hanoi
is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next

door to the National Convention Centre.
MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER

43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933
5688
maydeville.com
The largest four-star hotel
in Hanois Old Quarter, 110
rooms, a swimming pool, a
top floor terrace bar and a
location just a stones throw
from Hoan Kiem Lake make
this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in
the heart of the action.
MELIA HANOI
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
www.meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central
Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws
plenty of business travellers and is also a popular
venue for conferences and
wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant
restaurants, stylish bars,
fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house
guests satisfied.
MVENPICK HOTEL HANOI

83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
www.moevenpick-hanoi.
com
With its distinctive French
architecture and top end service, Mvenpick Hotel Hanoi
is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day
restaurant and a lounge bar
are available to satiate their
clientele while the kinetic gym
and wellness studio offer an
excellent range of equipment.
Massage and sauna facilities
are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154
well-appointed rooms and
suites, 93 are non-smoking.
PULLMAN HOTEL
$$$$
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3733 0808
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and
suites, a contemporary
lobby, an excellent buffet,
and a la carte restaurant,
this Accor group property
is prestigious and close to
the Old Quarter.
SHERATON
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
www.sheraton.com/hanoi
www.airasia.com
AIR FRANCE
130 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3825 8583
www.airfrance.com.vn
AIR MEKONG
1st Floor, Centre Point
Building, 106 Nguyen Van
Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: (08) 3846 3999
www.airmekong.com.vn
AMERICAN AIRLINES
194 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330
www.aa.com
CATHAY PACIFIC
5th Floor, Centec Tower,
72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3
Tel: 3822 3203
www.cathaypacific.com/
vn
CHINA AIRLINES
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Tel: 3911 1591
www.china-airlines.com
JAPAN AIRLINES
3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3821 9098
www.vn.jal.com
JETSTAR PACIFIC
www.jetstar.com/vn
KOREAN AIR
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3824 2878
www.koreanair.com
LAO AIRLINES
93 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: 3822 6990
www.laoairlines.com
MALAYSIA AIRLINES
Ground Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1
Tel: 3829 2529
www.malaysiaairlines.
com
SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Saigon Tower Bulding,
Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3823 1588
www.singaporeair.com
THAI AIRWAYS
29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3822 3365
www.thaiairways.com.vn
TIGER AIRWAYS
www.tigerair.com
VIETJETAIR
www.vietjetair.com
VIETNAM AIRLINES
27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
Tel: 3832 0320
www.vietnamairlines.com
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Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and
tranquil courtyards, this
peaceful property features
picturesque views of West
Lake and is less than 10
minutes from downtown.
In addition to the luxurious
rooms, the hotel offers an
outdoor swimming pool and
great relaxation and fitness
facilities, including a tennis
court and spa. There are well
equipped conference rooms
and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.
SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE

HANOI
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
www.sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French
colonial period is probably
still the finest in todays Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was)
anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where
the service is impeccable
and the luxurious facilities
complement the ambiance of
a bygone era. Definitely the
place to put the Comtessa up
for a night.
SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI

1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3823 8888
Boasting Hanois best views
of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake
and the Red River, Sofitel
Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.
The 5-star hotel features
317 luxurious, comfortable
guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view
ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.
HANOI MID-RANGE
6 ON SIXTEEN
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
www.sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to
grace Hanois Old Quarter,
the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with
handicrafts and antique.
Breakfast is included and in
the long, lounge restaurant
on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is
served up with fresh fruit
juices and Lavazza coffee.
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL
$$$
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928
6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the
Old Quarter, this little slice of
heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient
restaurant, serves the finest
in international and Vietnamese cuisine.
MAISON DHANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem
Lake, this glowing pearl in
the heart of Hanoi provides
tranquility with an art gallery
and piano bar.
MAY DE VILLE
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988
Set in the old French Quarter
a short walk from the Opera
House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining
contemporary architecture
with traditional Vietnamese
style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including
four suites.
HANOI BUDGET
HANOI BACKBACKERS HOSTEL
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 5372
www.hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town,
with bunk-style beds mixed
or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus
a couple of double suites
from VND250,000. A place
to meet like-minded fold in
the Old Quarter.
HCMC - INTERNATIONAL
CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Reports
2006 list of the worlds top
100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular
rooftop Saigon Saigon bar,
and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.
DUXTON HOTEL
$$$
63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2999
saigon.duxtonhotels.com
Famous for its daylong
rotatingmenu buffets, the
Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym,
spa, and fine dining.
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex

offers: 14 instant offices,
seven meeting rooms, a
600-capacity ballroom, spa,
outdoor swimming pool, a
gym, 24-hour fine dining,
24-hours room service, and
limousine services.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON
$$$$$
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh
City, resides the Asiana with
signature dining options,
an innovative cocktail bar,
exclusive spa and health
club, together with luxury
boutique arcade.
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON
$$$$
2A4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture,
spacious rooms, and a fine
selection of fine dining, with
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
NEW WORLD HOTEL
$$$$
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Former guests include U.S.
presidents two Bushes,
Clinton and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event
as well as a hotel, New World
is one of the best luxury
stops in town.
PARK HYATT
$$$$$
2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in
location, everything one
would expect from the Hyatt.
The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants
have garnered an excellent
reputation, as has the landscaped pool.
$$$
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property
boasts seven dining and
entertainment outlets, a
business centre, meeting
rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.
The Equatorial also has an
on-site casino.
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON
REX HOTEL
$$$$$
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 7777
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the
Saigon River, a 15-minute
scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town,
Riversides complementary
shuttle services take you
right in the city centre. With
152 fully equipped serviced
apartments, the property
offers special packages for
short-term stay starting at
VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.
RIVERSIDE HOTEL
$$$$$
1819-20 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417
riversidehotelsg.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers
complimentary Wi-Fi, airport
pickup or drop off, a 4th floor
ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River
Restaurant.
SHERATON
$$$$$
88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of
the best locations in town,
with firstclass facilities,
an openair restaurant 23
floors above the city and
a live music venue on the
same floor.
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA
$$$$
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
This 20story building in
downtown Saigon, caters
to upscale business and
leisure travelers seeking a
classic yet contemporary
stay in Saigon.
WINDSOR PLAZA
$$$
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its
own shopping hub (including
a bank), fine dining, a sauna,
health club, and superb
panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest
Oktoberfest in the region.
HCMC - DELUXE
CONTINENTAL
$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn
This charming old hotel has

been fted in literature and
in film. In the heart of Saigon,
this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.
HOTEL MAJESTIC
$$$
3829 5517
majesticsaigon.com.vn
NORFOLK HOTEL
$$$
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique
business hotel is located
minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and
is renowned for its fabulous
steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.
NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE
$$$
167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3822 4866
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has
a contemporary feel, an
international buffet The
Square a rooftop bar, and
a wellness centre including a
swimming pool, gym, sauna
and spa.
STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL
$$$
144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Josephs Hotel
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
Next to the cathedral
PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE
$$$$$
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the
site of the old Metropole,
this upscale, contemporary
property boasts 306 signature rooms combining
design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine,
a great downtown location
and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600
guests make up the mix.
EQUATORIAL
Brimming with history the

Rexs openair fifthfloor
bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now
five-star property, boasts
designer fashion and a shopping arcade.
$$$$
3829 2185
rexhotelvietnam.com
Free wi-fi, international breakfast,

spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,
multi-shower, friendly service
www.josephshotel.com
5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
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Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
The newly-built hotel is near
Tan Son Nhat International
Airport. With spectacular
city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming
pool, there is little reason not
to choose this shining star.
HCMC - MID-RANGE
ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$
3822 5914
kimdohotel.com
EMM HOTEL
157 Pasteur, Q3
A sleek, contemporary threestar hotel that mixes vintage
appeal and modern chic
thanks to a subdued palette
of white and grey around two
pop colours: azalea pink
and green hot pepper. Part
of the Thien Minh Group that
includes Victoria Hotels and
Buffalo Tours.
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2
$$$
46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa
Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
THAO DIEN VILLAGE
$$
195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2222
thaodienvillage.com
A colonialstyle hotel and
spa offers fine Italian, Thai
and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view
that overlook the bank of
the Saigon River, this is truly
someplace special.
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL
$$$
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,
Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256
9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
HCMC - BUDGET
DUC VUONG HOTEL
$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 6992
ducvuonghotel.com
Free WiFi offered in every
room. Low prices, friendly
staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps
from the backpackers area.
DUNA HOTEL
$
167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel:
(08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
HONG HOA HOTEL
$
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
SINH HUONG HOTEL
$
157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4648
Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
HOI AN & DANANG

AN BANG BEACH RETREAT
An Bang Beach, Hoi An
www.anbangbeachretreat.
com
CUA DAI
$
544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:
(0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$
Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu
Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 396 1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn
FURAMA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da
Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang
Resort and Spa is beachfront
with a stunning view of the
Marble Mountains. There
are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.
LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI
$$$
Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui
Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel:
(0510) 354 5105
domainedetamhai.com
LIFE RESORT HOI AN
$$$
1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An,
Tel: (0510) 391 4555
life-resorts.com
MERCURE DANANG
$$$
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379
7777
mercure-danang.com
PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang
Tel: (0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the stunning
white sands of Bac My An
Beach, the stylish Pullman
Danang Beach Resort is
an oasis of activities and
facilities for the modern
traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is
perfect for a family holiday
or romantic beach getaway.
And with extensive function
facilities, Pullman Danang
also provides the a great location for your next incentive
getaway or event.
THE NAM HAI
$$$$
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village,
Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394
0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive
swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant
spa on a lotus pond. Each
massive room has its own
espresso machine, pre
programmed iPod and both
indoor and outdoor showers.
VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT

AND SPA
Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510)
392 7040
victoriahotels.asia
HUE & LANG CO

ANGSANA LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnams South
Central Coast, Angsana Lang
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encompasses the resorts contemporary buildings and chic
interiors.
BANYAN TREE LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/
lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The
Banyan Tree offers privacy
and unparalleled exclusivity
with all-pool villas reflecting
the cultural and historical
legacy of past Vietnamese
dynastic periods.
LA RESIDENCE
$$$$
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383
7475
laresidencehue.com
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL
$
66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382
6736
hoangphuonghotel.com
NHA TRANG
EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX
SENSES SPA
$$$$
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)
352 2222
sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/
destination
2.6 hectares of private
beachside gardens and
villastyle accommodation
furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool
bar and the signature Six
Senses Spa.
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT
$
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this
budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG
$$$$
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:
(058) 398 9666
mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG
$$$
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:
(058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with
154 guestrooms, all with
a terrace and sea view.
Complete with a pool, spa,
restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up
to 200 delegates.
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH

VAN BAY
$$$$
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372
8222
sixsenses.com/resorts/
ninh-van-bay/destination
The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.
The location is stunning, on a
bay accessible only by boat.
SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL

AND SPA
$$$$
26 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058)
388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang
SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA
$$$
1214 Tran Phu, Nha Trang,
Tel: (058) 382 0999
sunrisenhatrang.com.vn
PHAN THIET & MUI NE

NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB &
BAR
Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan
Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068)
627 2727
ninhchubay.com
Enjoy the private beach with
excellent facilities and have a
massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon
to become a fully fledged
resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria,
draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this
one of a kind destination.
PHAN THIET & MUI NE

ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND
SPA
$$$$
8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
374 3777
allezboo.com
This resort offers exotic
Balistyle, thatched roof

honeymoon villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms,
fresh seafood, Vietnamese
cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing
and parasailing.
BLUE OCEAN RESORT
$$$$
384 7322
blueoceanresort.com.vn
life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH
$$$$
384 7111
cocobeach.net
With charming wooden
bungalows, a private beach,
a swimming pool (both with
attached bars) and a French
restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who
opened it in 1995.
MIA RESORT MUI NE
$$$
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
PRINCESS DANNAM RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh,
Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222
princessannam.com
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,
Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria
chain, the thatchedroof
bungalows and family villas
are set in exotic gardens
with an infinity swimming
pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and
jacuzzi.
PHONG NHA
EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR
$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail.
com
A hostel and street-front bar
all in one. Has a pleasant,
airy atmosphere in the bar
and restaurant area while
the 52 dorm beds four
beds to a room go for
US$8 (VND168,000) each a
night.
HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY
$$
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
phong-nha-homestay.com
PEPPER HOUSE
$
Tel: 01678 731560
pepperhouse-homestay.com
PHONG NHA FARMSTAY
$$
Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers joint
has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool
out back and views overlooking paddy fields and
mountains. Rooms start at
VND600,000 for a twin or
double, with a family room
for five costing VND1.4 million a night.
PHONG NHA LAKE RESORT
$$
Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo
Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052)
367 5999
phongnhalakehouse.com
SAIGON - PHONG NHA
$$$
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016
sgphongnhahotel@yahoo.
com.vn
PHU QUOC
BEACH CLUB RESORT
$$
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island
guesthouse featuring a
beachside restaurant, and
includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and
tours are easily arranged.
Discount rates during rainy
season.
CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua
Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang,
Tel: (077) 399 5895
centarahotelsresorts.com
MANGO BAY
$$
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An ecofriendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.
SAPA
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
$$
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203
871946
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from its
bar restaurant, the Cat Cat
Guesthouse is paradise at
very reasonable rates. The
rooms have big windows,
balconies, and log fireplaces.
travel
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$$
Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai
Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)
topasecolodge.com
With its panoramic views of
the surrounding mountains
and valley, Topas Ecolodge
is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and
quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains the
landscape, the fresh air and
the ethnic peoples. Guests
stay in private bungalows
with dinner served in a local
stilt house restaurant.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$
24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel:
0203 872404
topasecolodge.com
For the environmentally
conscientious, 25 individual
lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar
technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also
organises treks and bicycle
tours.
VICTORIA SAPA
$$$
Tel: 0203 871522
victoriahotels.asia
VUNG TAU & HO TRAM

BINH AN VILLAGE
$$$$
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
CON DAO RESORT
$$
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con
Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064)
383 0939
condaoresort.vn
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND

SPA
$$$$
Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is
the ideal getaway from Ho
Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely
bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa
and two swimming pools.
HO TRAM SANCTUARY
$$$$
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come
with their own pool and have
direct access to the beach.
Extras include tennis courts,
a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.
REX HOTEL
$$
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
SIX SENSES CON DAO
$$$$
Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao
THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP

Phuoc Thuan Commune,
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand - Ho Tram Strip
is Vietnams first large
scale integrated resort and
ultimately will include a
1,100-room five-star hotel,
a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting
space, an exclusive VIP area,
as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.
The first 541-room tower
of this development opened
in July 2013 with its casino
including 90 live tables and
614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room
tower is on track to open in
2015.
TRAVEL SERVICES HANOI

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com
www.buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at
the service of all Vietnamese
and expatriate residents
in Vietnam offering easy,
hassle-free travel around
the world and in Vietnam,
with the highest standards
of customer care. This

premium Travel Agency
has been created to help
travelers select their destinations and organize their
trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and
ensure that all journeys are
enjoyable and successful.
BTA customizes leisure and
corporate travel plans while
offering a selected range of
small group tours.
EXO TRAVEL
66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3828 2150
exotravel.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel
agency with an extensive
operational track record in
the Indochina region and
beyond. Providing up-market
services, Exotissimo brings
their clients close to culture
through personalised tours.
Also find travel desks at the
Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which
are open on weekends and
holidays.
HANDSPAN TRAVEL
78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3926 2828
www.handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers
with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular
and isolated locations in
Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable
and responsible tourism
initiatives. Also provides to
excursions to more wellworn destinations.
INDOCHINA LAND
SYRENA CRUISES
61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)

3715 2852
www.indochina-land.com
Indochina Land is a French
local travel agency for
expatriates and tourists
who want to see northern
Vietnam in a personal and
tailored way. Think small
knowledgeable teams of
Vietnamese and French
who share their passion for
discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on
freedom, family, health trips
and classic home stays. They
will show you around Ha Giang, too.
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:

(04) 3719 7214
www.syrenacruises.com
If youre thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while
enjoying luxury comfort,
Syrena Cruises could be the
quencher youre looking for.
Forget drinking games and
backpackers by relaxing on
one of the two wooden boats
from the fleet. Alone, as a
couple or with a group, 34
luxurious cabins and suites
are all ready for action. All
you have to do is decide on
how long you want to holiday for.
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
www.intrepidtravel.com/
vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is
an international travel company operating in Vietnam
since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks
and small group adventures.
With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid
focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City,
Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong
Bay, Sapa and beyond to get
you up close to Vietnams
people, cuisine, history and
culture.
TRAVEL SERVICES HCMC

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY
70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702;
157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi
Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827
9170
www.buffalotours.com
This premium travel agency
helps travelers select their
destinations and organize
their trips. From corporate
travel to small group tours,
explore the world or Vietnam.
CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING

SERVICE
12th floor, 242 Cong Quynh,
District 1, HCMC
Call center: 1900 5454 40

www.en.chudu24.com
info.en@chudu24.com
Chudu24.com - the locally
famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is
known for having the best
prices and reliable service.
If you are looking for great
local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com.
It has been the #1 Vietnam
hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.
EXO TRAVEL
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)
3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotravel.com
A reliable and experienced
travel company operating
through Southeast Asia,
Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the
region, many including insights into culinary customs,
handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.
FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

(08) 3824 7744
flightravelco.com
Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel
insurance, to corporate
companies, family and individual travelers.
HG TRAVEL
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
www.hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising
in small-group tours around
Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole
representative agent for
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities
in Africa www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines
(www.aa.com) and Turkish
Airlines (www.thy.com).
www.cocobeach.net
paradise@cocobeach.net
Coco Beach Resort
58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, W. Ham Tien

Phan Thiet, Vietnam
+84-(0)62-3847111 / 2 / 3
travel
GINKGO VOYAGE
TRAVEL PROMOS
1st Floor, 130 Nguyen Cong

Tru, Q1, HCMC
Tel: (08) 3914 3344
ginkgovoyage.com
Offers a full range of quality travel services to both
domestic and international
travellers, including private
and customized tours, small
group tours, hotels bookings
as well as corporate travel
/ MICE solutions in Vietnam
and further. Email info@
ginkgovoyage.com for info.
PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel:
0904 193308
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
TERRAVERDE
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di,
Ward 4, Tan Binh District,
Tel: (08) 3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through
the Mekong Delta, trekking
in the highlands, or lazing in
a junk on Ha Long Bay all
while making a difference in
peoples lives then this
company will suit you well.
VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

169A De Tham, Q1, Tel:
01222 993585
vietnamvespaadventure.
com
Vespa Adventure offers
multiday tours of southern
and coastal Vietnam on the
back of a luxury motorbike
powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead
the way.
TRAVEL SERVICES ELSEWHERE

BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS
Tel: (08) 6298 5659
backofthebiketours.com
Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street
food to give customers a
truly immersive Vietnamese
experience.
BEENINASIA.COM
www.beeninasia.com
info@beeninasia.com
Online travel in Southeast
Asia. Offers you selection of
best hotels and great tours.
Create your own trip or we
can tailor make your itinerary.
MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui
Ne, Tel: 0908 400108
mantasailing.org
TU TRAVEL
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho
City, Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
The presidential villa at Six Senses Ninh Van Bay
Greenhouse goes Italian

@ Hyatt Regency Danang
danang.regency.hyatt.com
Some people have hard jobs. Then
there are the guys at the Hyatt
Danang, who say they spent
November testing recipes for
the new range of Italian dishes
now on the menu at Greenhouse.
To support the change theyve
also brought in bona fide Italian
Chef Marco Pistillo to bring
the restaurant to the next level
of excellence. A separate menu
will be available to highlight
some of Marcos signature dishes,
including a scallop and prawn
spaghetti, braised veal shank
ossobuco and fresh burratta. Mama
Mia!
Mango Bay Gets a New

Chef
@ Mango Bay Phu Quoc
mangobayphuquoc.com
Phu Quoc Island is one of those
rare sites of legitimate tropical
island splendour a true jewel
in the Vietnamese tourism crown.
Mango Bay Resort takes that
experience to the level it deserves,
and theyve just announced a new
French chef.
Thibaut Metier is the man,
bringing with him his European
experience and a fresh set

of eyes to play some of the
freshest seafood in Asia. Expect
a Mediterranean twist on some
French classic techniques, with a
fusion of Asian flavour thrown
in for good measure. If you need
another reason to visit paradise,
the guys at Mango Bay hope that
this is it.
Says General Manager Ronan
Le Bihan, Mango Bay is a
culinary experience in itself. We
pride ourselves on having one of
the best cuisines on the island.
Dulich Deluxe has Luxury

covered
travel.nttv.biz
In the not to be missed section
of Dulich Deluxes website this
month you can find some great
deals including Vinpearl Resort
Phu Quoc from VND4.4 million++
per person per day for their Deluxe
garden view room including 3
meals, and An Lam Ninh Van Bay
from VND4.4 million++ per person
per day for the Hill Rock Villa with
cruise to the island included.
Banyan Tree Lang Co
Six Senses Tet Holiday

specials
banyantree.com
We love our golf and spa
treatments here at Word. So when
we heard Banyan Tree Lang Co
were offering unlimited both,
we couldnt keep it to ourselves.
Book for two nights or more
between now and Mar. 29, and
unlimited back rubs, birdies and
body scrubs could be yours. Valid
for any stay between now and
Mar. 31, itll only set you back
VND10.55 million++ per night.
This ultimate package includes
accommodation for two, daily
breakfast, airport transfer and
shuttle service to Hoi An and
Hue.
sixsenses.com
Six Senses Hotel Resorts and Spas set
the benchmark for luxury in Vietnam,
and theyve got some great packages
to enjoy over the Tet holiday period
at all three of their properties. This
includes a 15 percent discount on
spa treatments and 20 percent at
the Ana Beach House restaurant
for those staying at the Evason Ana
Mandara Nha Trang. Packages at
Six Senses Con Dao and Ninh Van
Bay resorts from VND8 million++
both include breakfast and round trip
airport shuttle and boat transfers. In
Nha Trang the Garden View Room
is a steal from VND3.9 million++ on
select dates this month.
Hanoi
RECALLING HANOI // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS // STUDENT EYE // FOOD PROMOS //
THE ALCHEMIST // THE THERAPIST // MEDICAL BUFF // BOOK BUFF
PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA
hanoi
business
BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS /

MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
BUSINESS GROUPS
ICHAM
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1
Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2229
icham.org
The Chamber has the main
purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and
to assist economic agents,
as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic
relations and cooperation
among entrepreneurs of
the various countries. The
Chamber will not engage in
commercial activities with
the aim of producing profits.
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2229
ccifv.org
A business group with over
240 members that supports the French business
community in Vietnam by
listening to their members
needs and expectations. Also
promotes Vietnam to French
companies and helps them in
developing their businesses
here.
EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
A confederate organisation
with strong ties to national
business associations in its
member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support
for the business interests of
European Union members in
Vietnam.
INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD
MARKET RESEARCH
xavier@indochinaresearch.
com
indochinaresearch.com
Active in Vietnam for more
than 20 years, Indochina
Research has the capacity to
run large research projects
in the country, for commercial and social purposes.
CORPORATE SERVICES
ENDO
79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3783 2085
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manu-
facturing for local resorts,

restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.
INSURANCE
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel
Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3936 5370
Emergency: 0903 732365
insuranceinvietnam.com
Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal
lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has
been operational in Vietnam
since 1994 and offers free
advice and comparative
quotes.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL, HANOI
Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes
Riverside, Long Bien, Hanoi
Tel: 04 3946 0435
www.bishanoi.com
The British International
School (BIS) Hanoi, is a selective, independent, co-educational day school. It provides
a British style education for
an international student
body operating from a modern purpose-built campus
in the vibrant and cultured
city of Hanoi. The National
Curriculum for England, International General Certificate of Secondary Education
(IGCSE) and Advanced Level
(A Level) are taught to English speaking students from
Pre-School to Year 13. The
International Baccalaureate
(IB) Diploma will, pending IB
authorization, be offered
from 2016 onwards.
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
International brand, Concordia, has highly performing
schools in both Hong Kong
and Shanghai at the top tier
of the educational system.
All instructors and teachers
are native English speakers
and admission applications
are accepted throughout
the year.
ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN HANOI
3rd floor, Tower A, Keangnam Landmark, DinhNghe,
Me Tri. Tel: 0965 588888
etonhouse.edu.vn
Thanks to a unique curriculum used in over 100
schools, a stimulating and
motivating environment, and
a child-centred approach,
children at Eton House make
rapid progress and achieve
their maximum potential.
Classes offeredfor students
aged 18 months to 6 years
and there isan Open Door
Policy at all times.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available for
students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is
one of the few private, international education options
in the capital. The institution
offers Cambridge IGCSE and
IB Diploma for students at
the secondary level. Located
near the Japanese Embassy.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF
VIETNAM
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai
Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183
www.isvietnam.org
The International School of
Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to
Grade 12 school serving the
international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts
students of any nationality
aged 3 and up. ISV offers
an international education
experience. Highly qualified
and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century
campus with the latest in
educational technology
plus excellent resources
for learning. Class sizes are
small.
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with
a foreign teacher leading the
class with the assistance of a
Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student
ratio. KinderWorld provides
pre school education for
children from 18 months to
below 6 years.
QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF

HANOI
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
hanoi.qsi.org
With nearly four decades of
experience in international
education, QSI International
School of Hanoi is next in the
long line of quality schools
that have been established
by the Quality Schools International. The institution
specialises in instructing
pre-school and lower elementary age students.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (SIS)
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic
Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block
C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel:
3795 1036
www,kinderworld.net/sis
SIS provides international
education for students from
Primary up to University
Foundation Programme. A
strong curriculum combines
the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and
Vietnamese curricula, all
taught by qualified teachers.
Runs various co-curricula
activities and prepares
students for internationally
recognised qualifications:
iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE &
AS/A Level, GAC
Unit 9 10, Shophouse

CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743
0360
3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934
7243
C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri
New Urban, Tu Liem District,
Tel: +84 4 3794 0209
APOLLO
67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3943 2051
Apollo.edu.vn
Established in 1994, Apollo
offers high-quality and costeffective English language
classes including general
English, English for teens,
English for business communication and a pronunciation
clinic. One of the countrys
RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS
BRITISH COUNCIL
20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3728 1922
britishcouncil.org
The cultural arm of the British governments presence
in Vietnam, the BC offers a
variety of English language
courses business writing, corporate training and
general English in a large
learning centre close to West
Lake.
AGS FOUR WINDS

41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 8762
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices
globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.
LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM

62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3927 3399
languagelink.edu.vn
With four schools around
Hanoi, Language Link runs
international English language courses endorsed by
Cambridge University. One of
the top language centres in
the capital.
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
RMIT
Hanoi Resco Building, 521
Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3726 1460
rmit.edu.vn
A leading international provider of skills training and
professional staff development, RMIT offers both short
and long-term courses,
customised courses, and
can provide for either on or
off-campus clients. Known
for its Business MBA which
is open to both Vietnamese
and overseas students.
ALLIED PICKFORDS
Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan
Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The international home
moving company helps
make the burden of moving
a lot easier. As the largest
home moving company in
the world, Allied Pickfords
moves over 1,000 families
in over 175 countries every
day. Available with a full
range of services domestic moves, office moves and
storage whether you are
moving within Vietnam or
across the world.
ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO

Inland Customs Deport Area
(ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh,
Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882
asiantigergroup.com
Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of
moving households without
disruption ti family life. They
also offer pre-move advice
regarding customs and
shipping.
JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS
MARKET RESEARCH
CIMIGO
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN
leading language centres.
142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel:

(04) 3518 6696
vietnam@cimigo.com
cimigolive.com
MARKET RESEARCH
com
6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:

(04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is currently a leader in
the field. Has offices in both
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers
local and international moving, pet transportation, re-
hanoi
location services including
home search, orientation,
cultural training, immigration services and records
management. For more information email Vietnam@
santaferelo.com.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
ATLANTA RESIDENCES
49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 0912 239085
atlanta.com.vn
Atlanta Residences fully
serviced apartments have
been created to provide a
space where you can feel
at home. Within walking
distance from Hanois Opera
House and Hoan Kiem Lake,
this building offers a panel of
51 spacious apartments for
you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer
the luxury of a hotel mixed
with the peaceful comfort
and privacy of your home,
under one roof of course.
old quarter
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS
BARS & CLUBS

CHEEKY QUARTER
LATE NIGHT LOCAL

1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
01679 647254
8pm to late
Last building on the right
before Hang Buom, this
popular with the French
(and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has
the same Old Quarter vibe;
small, cosy and personal
with funky twists and an
awesome logo. Spread over
two floors with good tunes,
drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till
late. Also does tasty paninis
into the early hours.
DRAGONFLY
FRASER SUITES HANOI
(04) 3719 8877
Located in the West Lake
area, Fraser Suites Hanoi
consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four
bedrooms, which meet any
lifestyle. With a calming and
warm interior feel, each
apartment features all the
latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides
peace of mind.
SOMERSET GRAND HANOI

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3934 2342
somerset.com
Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive
facilities. 185 fully furnished
apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central
location.
SPORTS GARMENTS
SCORE-TECH
44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: 01203 802832
A 100 percent foreigninvested company offering
personalised sport garments. Using the latest printing technology as well as a
design team from Barcelona,
Score-Tech controls the
whole production process
from producing fabrics and
sewing to printing. Big and
small orders of garments
produced for all sporting
needs.
DANCEHALL LOUNGE
15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 4926 2177
11am to late
One of the better venues in
the Old Quarter for dancing
on the weekends. Although
crammed into a small space,
cheap drinks and a mix of
chart chits makes Dragonfly
the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident
looking to get up on the
dance floor. If you dont feel
like dancing, relax upstairs
with shisha and friends with
one of the two lounges on
the second floor. The sister
venue on Phung Hung has a
bigger menu and an earlier
opening hour (11am instead
of 6pm) but still keeps with
the shisha, pool table and
dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.
FATCAT BAR
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

0986 495211
linkhanoi.com
4pm to late
Straddling Bia Hoi Corner
and the cobblestoned end
of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a
small establishment from the
minds behind the party and
event organisers, LinkHanoi.
The bar has tables filling the
first floor and spilling onto
the sidewalk as well as a
small loft area for lounging.
Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting
at VND500,000 and a DJ on
the decks make up the mix.
FUNKY BUDDHA
ELECTRO LOUNGE
(04) 3292 7614
8pm to late
HAIR OF THE DOG
LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE

32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
0947 893232
10am to late
HALF MAN HALF NOODLE
LATE DIVE BAR

62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3926 1943
3pm to late
IRISH WOLFHOUND
IRISH PUB
4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821
irishwolfhoundpub.com
8am to 2am
The open-air watering hole
with seating on the pavement
is a great spot to enjoy a tall
dark stout or light pilsner at
anytime, day or night. What it
lacks in gaudy decorations,
it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and
billiards on the third floor.
Has a decent food menu and
even better pizzas.
LA BOMBA LATINA
LATIN BAR
46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: 0917 245155
LE PUB
BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL
RESTOBAR
25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 2104
7am to midnight
Dark red walls and even
darker brown seating run
through the homely and
casual Le Pub, one of the few
bars in town with a regular
stream of clientele. A long
list of imported beer, Tiger
draft, a decent international
cum Vietnamese food menu,
happy hour specials and live
sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets
involved in the local community through regular events.
MAOS RED LOUNGE
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

(04) 3926 3104
MOJITO BAR
CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR

19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan
Kiem
facebook.com/mojito.bar.
lounge
Decked out in wooden panelling and bare brick, this
tastefully designed watering
whole in the Old Quarter is
known for its prize-winning
bartender and excellent
cocktails
POLITE PUB
LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3825 0959
5pm to 2am
A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest
pubs in the city, this staple
watering hole on Bao Khanh
continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi
has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals
and expats who find solace
in the nightly conversations
at the long bar, billiards and
live football matches.
ROCKSTORE
LIVE MUSIC BAR
01653 336087
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock
Cafe without the stigma and
the expensive prices. Nightly
live music or DJing events
are coupled with creative
decor, a selection of Belgian
Beer and a food menu.
SPY BAR
HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802
TEMPLE BAR
NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR

Tel: (04) 6675 7908
TET BAR
LATE-NIGHT BAR
2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 3050
THE SPOT
LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE

(04) 3935 1874
8am to midnight
CAFES
JOMA
INTERNATIONAL CAFE
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem
joma.biz
Housed in a two-storey converted, colonial-era villa, the
concept of the third Joma is
the same as at its two other
cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter,
and a great selection of
sandwiches, bagels, salads,
cakes, ice-cream and tea.
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
COFFEE/BAKERY
222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 3388
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice

of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi
in 2009. Joma contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3825 0216
7am to 8pm
MOCA CAFE
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
(04) 3825 6334
8am to 10pm
Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly
location gives Moca a large
amount of guidebook-driven
clientele. But dont let this put
you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good
WiFi and some of the best
coffee in town makes this
a great spot to while away
a couple of hours. The food
menu mixes Vietnamese fare
with sandwiches, western
and pan-Asian mains.
PUKU
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745
Open 24 hours
This spacious spot on food
street is open around the
clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along
with more eclectic Irish
nachos, cottage pies and
pan-Asian fare. Upstairs
is fit for social gatherings
and live music while the nosmoking downstairs space
is filled with people working
and socialising. Serves as
community centre, catering
both to ravenous backpackers whove just arrived off
the night train from Sapa and
locals looking to meet up.
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938
2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small a cozy caf hidden
on the quietest of Hanoian
streets. Serves and delivers
tasty baguettes, homemade
juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery

service is quick and reliable,
which makes this lunchtime
favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting
in a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

BOO SKATESHOP
SKATESHOP
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 1147
Booskateshop.com
CONTRABAND
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9891
Launched in Hanoi in 2007,
Contraband targets young
hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look
after making them ideal for
work and travel. New styles
are introduced each month
with limited production runs,
offering a sense of exclusivity.
LATELIER
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 2419
ateliervietnam.com
The downtown store of this
well-known chic boutique.
Stocks womens wear,
leather bags, shoes and
handicrafts. Offers both
ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem.
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
RECALLING HANOI
PART NINE
andscape is entangled with history

and peoples lives. No matter
how young we are or what social
position we have, we all have
stories to tell.
The book I am working on, Recalling
Hanoi, is my vision of Hanoi, a tapestry
weaved out of portraits, peoples stories
and the urban landscape that hosts them.

I ask people living in the city to tell
me about a place in Hanoi that holds
memories. It can be about anything a
personal story intertwined with history; a
great event; everyday little stories that our
lives are made of. These stories, along with
the photographs of the storyteller and the
location provide depth.

Through this collection I am attempting
to create an intimate, multi-layered portrait
of this city through its collective memory.
The hope is that the audience will connect
to other peoples lives and also to their own
memories in an attempt to understand this
beautiful city.
staircase imagining it was a big house

where each stair was a new floor. In
the courtyard we used to play soccer or
badminton. In the kitchenette we would
make rice.
There is a lot of jealousy between
people in the house. When I renovated
the apartment I had to hide it from my
neighbours so the older people wouldnt
try to stop it. They didnt want me to
renovate; they talked about me behind
my back to the workers in my house to
make them stop working for me. They

said horrible things about me just because
they were jealous I could pay for the
renovation and they could not.
I love my apartment; Im very attached
to it, but I will move out because its too
complicated. Every time I have guests
round, the whole neighbourhood knows
about it and they watch me. When they
realise that I will stare right back and not
back down, they stop annoying me and
they are all smiles, but I ignore them.
Minh
A House Made of Glass
Location: Tuc Mac Street
There are 16 families in the house. It used
to be a French house, one of the oldest in
Hanoi. After the war with the French, it
was divided into apartments.
I have lived here my whole life: first
with my mother then alone after she
passed away. When I used to come back
home from France where I was studying,
I would always have this strong feeling of
being where I belong, a familiar feeling of
being home.
When I was a child we played on the
hanoi
BY JULIE VOLA
Hien
Vietnam Champion
Location: Van Quan Lake
It was Dec. 28, 2008, the day of the ASEAN
Football Federation cup final between
Vietnam and Thailand. Although we were
preparing for our exams, we couldnt
concentrate on our studies. The first match in
Thailand had put Vietnam ahead of Thailand
by 2-1, making people even more eager for
us to win.
By early evening, we were all gathered
at the caf beside Van Quan Lake. The
restaurant was full of people with flags,
banners and slogans saying Vietnam
Champions. The atmosphere was electric,
particularly during the first half when
Thailand suddenly scored, sending us all into
turmoil at the prospect of losing. Although
the Vietnamese team was physically weaker,

they were playing their best, attacking
ceaselessly. The Thai team was no less
competitive, pulling stunts for the Vietnamese
fans and showing off their skills.
Time flew by with no more goals, then in
the final minute of the match, Vietnam was
awarded a corner. None of us could sit still.
Minh Phuong took the corner, crossing the
ball to Le Cong Vinh, and... GOAL!
The cafe exploded. We hugged each other,
singing and dancing. Everyone went into
the street in celebration even the taxis
and the buses were free. The streets were
packed with people, and everything was
red, with the Vietnam star everywhere. We
were shaking hands, hugging each other

and waving flags to celebrate. Pots, pans,
buckets people used whatever they
could find to make a noise in celebration.
People lined the street. Sometimes they
were chanting Vietnam Victory, Vietnam
champion and sang the song As Uncle Ho
in the fun of victory.
Even now I still cannot forget that moment
and the proud feeling of triumph. As a
Vietnamese person, I loved my country even
more. I was so proud.
This is the ninth excerpt from Julie Volas work,
Recalling Hanoi. The work is presently being
serialised in Word. For more information email
juls.vola@gmail.com
hanoi
COFFEE CUP
YOLO
oasting an abundance of
communal seating, funky decor
and a full roster of regular live
music performances, Yolo Caf
Lounge appears to be a venue that lives
by its name. Located a stones throw
from the popular watering hole Barbetta
on Cao Ba Quat, this rollicking cafslash-bar has quickly earned a place in
the hearts of Hanois young (or young at
heart) and trendy.
Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly
quirky, its easy to see why Yolo has
become one of Hanois most visited
hangouts. An endearing use of recycled
furniture antiques and colourful
artwork create a vibrant atmosphere
while a mish-mash of metal rods,
concrete boulders and empty wine bottles
in the entryway show off a wild and
unpredictable side, synonymous with its
acronymic name.
Live and Loud

But while wonky metal sculptures and
recycled furniture arent necessarily
uncommon in Hanois emerging scene of
artisan cafes, what makes Yolo unique is
Photos by David Harris
that it feels partially inspired by a 1950s

burger joint. Scantily clothed Vargas girls
straddle the walls while the restored faade
of an old pickup truck hangs suspended
above the cafs central performance space
as if plucked from a period Burger King
commercial.
If patrons are disappointed with the lack
of waiters on roller-skates or big neon signs
out front, they may be impressed with
the weekly servings of live music belted
out only metres away from the cafs long
wooden benches and raised bar stools.
These are periodically cleared to make way
for the jumping crowds of music lovers that
flock to Yolo for its wide range of music
offerings, varying from rock and reggae
music to digital and dub tunes. Around the
corner from the central bar, visitors can also
retreat to the lounges green room, home to
a lavish selection of foreign wines.
An Oasis of Calm
While the venue really comes alive at
night, by day it slows to become a quiet
oasis tucked away from the hustle and
bustle. The furnished balconies are
perfect for sitting and watching the
world go by, while an inviting selection

of comfy armchairs make it easy to wile
away the hours with a good book. If
youre in need of a place to clear the
growing backlog of freelance deadlines,
Yolos long benches and tasty ca phe
sua da (VND30,000) make it a suitable
workstation to grind away the hours.
On sunny days, the top floor plays
host to patrons toasting the sunshine on
the outdoor patio, while enjoying freshly
barbecued skewers of beef, capsicum and
eggplant (VND50,000 including a drink)
cooked up by the friendly staff. The venue
also offers free Larue beer between 7.30pm
and 8.30pm on Thursdays and Saturdays,
attracting a decent sized crowd that hops
between Yolo and Barbetta.
If youre after a barista-made coffee,
however, this isnt the place to come for your
daily flat white. But if youre after a unique
and vibrant space to work, catch up with
friends or sample the local music talent, Yolo
provides a fun and compelling alternative to
your run-of-the-mill caf. David Mann
Yolo is open 24 hours and is at 32C Cao Ba
Quat, Ba Dinh, Hanoi or online at facebook.
com/YoloCoffeeShops
hanoi
move to the capital has seen
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3828 6965
This shops motto Western
sizes, Vietnamese prices,
says it all. While mostly retailing womens separates
in soft cotton jersey and
linen, the store also carries a range of accessories
like embroidered canvas
totes and printed tees. Has
a good selection of unique
mens shirts.
THREE TREES
JEWELLERY
(04) 3928 8725
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang
Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 2645
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital will see
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
CAFE DE PARIS
FRENCH BISTRO
12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327
cafedeparis-hanoi.com
8am to 11pm
Thanks to its original tiled
floor, cast iron backed chairs
and wall-hung black and
white photography, there is
something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving
up a simple menu of snacks
such as quiche Lorraine,
Paris beurre and croque
monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has
a daily specials board and a
decent range of pizzas.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
Tel: (04) 3993 1399
10am to 10.30pm
A slither of a joint serving
up the same fare that the
lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an
international version of the
mighty curry they even
sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent
with masala, dopiaza, korma
and the more Goan vindaloo
taking centre stage. Also has
a good range of breads and
tandoor-cooked kebabs.
GREEN MANGO
WESTERN / VIETNAMESE
18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9916
greenmango.vn
7.30am to 11.30pm
GREEN TANGERINE
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

(04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
10am to 11pm daily
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets
you as you walk into this
French era-built villa that
houses the main section of
this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing
mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine,
blended in with Vietnamese
ingredients and cooking
styles, the resultant fare
has had customers coming
back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids
menu is also available, as is a
wine list focusing mainly on
French wines.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su,
0639
10am to midnight
LITTLE INDIA
INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE

32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 1859
littleindianhn@gmail.com
LA RESTAURANT
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 8933
8am to 10pm
The complimentary warm
bread with rosemary is
reason enough to visit this
homely spot featuring hearty
lentil and black bean soups,
along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef
tenderloin or tofu with chilli
and mushrooms. We arent
quite sure why the Miele
Guide nominated it as one of
Asias finest restaurants as
service is lackadaisical and
tables could use candles to
improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately
tasty dishes more than make
up for any quips.
goes over two floors and

has a welcome and inviting
three-level outdoor terrace
high up amid the concrete
and cables of the Old Quarter.
NAMASTE HANOI
PAN-INDIAN
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 3935 2400
namastehanoi.com
11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10.30pm
The latest newcomer to the
Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in
dishes from both northern
and southern India using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you
between VND150,000 and
VND300,000 and everything
is there, from curries and
breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or
out with a free delivery.
thekafe.vn
Spacious, casual, energetic
and beautifully designed, The
KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy
the modern urban diner.
Preparing fresh food and
drinks that show respect to
natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe,
this caf-cum-restaurant is
a popular choice for Hanois
metrosexual community.
THE MOOSE AND ROO
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,
Tel:(04) 3200 1289
Contemporary Australian
and Canadian comfort food
in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.
Best known for their Scotch
egg, poutine and burgers.
Clever changing imagery on
the walls.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
(04) 3828 9052
8am to 11pm
A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed caf
and bar with an extensive
list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well
as full courses such as
veal, and duck with currant
sauce. Known for its good,
European-style coffee and
first-floor terrace area with
views over the cathedral.
Has a second garden restaurant on Xuan Dieu.
LITTLE HANOI
21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 8333
7.30am to 11pm
MEDITERRANEO
PAN-ITALIAN
(04) 3826 6288
10am to 11pm
This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral
serves all the traditional
Italian fare you could need
homemade mozzarella
and fresh pasta, spinach
and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
boards, soups, salads and
fish. Throw in an extensive
wine list, a traditional wood
fire oven and a balcony spot
looking over Hanois trendy
caf scene and youre onto
a winner.
MILLENIUM
PAN-FRENCH
11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10pm
Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium
restaurant is the minimal
and chic result of a Caf Des
Arts makeover. The streets
new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking
OLD HANOI
GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 8337
10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm
Gordon Ramsay once filmed
a show at this restaurant in
a renovated French villa and
now the ribs carry his namesake. But its the twist on old
world favourites, think fried
snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo,
in a casually elegant setting
that make this spot near
the train tracks standout.
Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and
check the schedule for live
traditional music.
PROVECHO
TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL

0912 223966
The successor of My Burger
My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny,
multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style,
chargrilled burgers from
around VND50,000 with a
range of additional toppings
including jalapeno peppers,
smoked bacon, mushrooms,
cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also
has a good range of Tex-Mex
fare, a number of pan-Asian
dishes and a decent delivery
service.
SOUTHGATE
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 1979
southgatehanoi.com
THE KAFE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 6245
TAMARIND
CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN
(04) 3926 0580
5.30am to 10.30pm
Perhaps the only restaurant
in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesnt focus on
faux meat. Features a wide
range of juices and shakes
in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has
Asian favourites like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu
and Thai glass noodle salad,
along with some falafel and
western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will
find something to try on this
menu.
THE LOFT STOP CAF
FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES

11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
8am to 11pm
SPICE
CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT

(04) 3926 0580
TANDOOR
PAN-INDIAN
(04) 3824 5359
11am to 10.30pm
A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising
in Northern Indian cuisine.
Has an indoor and upstairs,
white tablecloth aircon
area with a more casual
dining and bar space out
front. Does excellent kebabs
served from an authentic
tandoor oven as well as the
full range of mainly North
Indian curries. Also has a
branch in Saigon and does
excellent set lunches.
ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAF
FITNESS & YOGA

STUDIO FIVE
YOGA & WELLNESS

5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04)
6263.1515
http://studio5.vn
facebook.com/yogastudio5
6am to 8pm
An international and professional Yoga Studio providing
more than 20 different yoga
styles such as: Hatha Yoga,
Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga,
Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with
infrared heater), Power Yoga
and much more, with a flexible schedule of 10 classes
per day. Bring harmony
back into your life Studio
Five is the perfect place to
reconnect your mind with
your body.
ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong
Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3923 0253
An international Yoga studio
providing classes across a
variety of levels and styles,
including prenatal and
postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai
chi. Also have a yogic shop
offering incense, yoga and
pilates mats, books, clothes,
soaps, Himalayan products
and other essential yoga
equipment.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR

BACCHUS CORNER
WINE RETAILER
1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 1393
Part of the Tan Khoa chain,
the largest liquor and wine
distributor in the country,
the walls here are lined with
a decent selection of wines,
pleasantly arrayed and back
lit. Besides their selection of
new and old world wines
Helpful staff and free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 7666
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams
ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of
the greatest wines from the
best wine-growing regions
on the planet. The portfolio
mixes the best of both old
and new world wines.
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3923 0253
hanoi
TOP EATS
CAU GO VIETNAMESE CUISINE
rom the sixth-floor restaurant

balcony of Cau Go Vietnamese
Cuisine you can neither hear
the stabbing horn section and
bub-a-bub beat of a million rumbling
motorbikes, nor the roosters playing their
wailing call-and-response with the cats in
heat. From here, looking out over Hoan
Kiem Lake, it seems that the conductor
of this sprawling, free-jazz orchestra has
told the players to take five. With Ngoc
Son Temple and Turtle Tower mirrored
in the shimmering water, Hanoi looks
positively serene.
Of course, this place is much more
than just its view, although that alone
warrants a laundry list of superlatives.
The dcor, too, has a certain Zen flow to it,
and transmits a sense of time recaptured
from the past through its antique fans,
distressed French shutters and the vintage
uniforms of the waiting staff. Even the
leather-bound menu opens with the words,
An invitation to the past.
A Modern Twist
Open less than a year, this Cau Go, meaning
wooden bridge, has already jumped from
#31 to #7 on Trip Advisor, and its easy to
see why. Head chef Dao Thi Bay, who cut
her teeth for about 20 years in Ho Chi Minh

City, takes a contemporary approach to
traditional Vietnamese cuisine, and does
so with an artistic flourish present in every
dish.
The extensive menu takes a tour of the
countrys specialities. A Saigon favourite,
mustard leaves rolled with shrimp and
pork (VND100,000), is tied with the leaf
of a spring onion like a lovingly-made
Christmas gift, and comes with a sweet
and sour dipping sauce. The crunch of the
carrot, cucumber, and lotus root inside the
parcel is given substance by the butterflied
shrimp resting on top, while the mustard
leaf itself releases a subtle and satisfying
afterglow.
The friendly staff, who remove
themselves to a discreet distance, are
nevertheless alert and attentive there
is no roaring Em oi! here, thankfully.
Its all very civilised. My waiter suggested
two of the chefs specials, seabass with
passion fruit sauce (VND120,000), and
tofu deep-fried with lemongrass and chilli
(VND90,000).
Passion Fruit and Thirst Quenchers

The battered seabass had a crisp exterior,
which was softened by a sweet and spicy
passion fruit sauce that became more and

more viscous as it cooled. Although one
of the pieces of fish was slightly dry from
sitting a few seconds too long in the hot oil,
the joy of licking that honey-thick sauce
from my lips was such delicious fun I could
order it again and again.
The homemade tofu, which the waiter
seemed particularly proud of, was without
doubt the most delicate Ive ever tasted.
Golden brown and heaped with dry-fried
lemongrass and chilli, these melt-inyour-mouth cubes of joy are a must for
tofu-lovers.
Although there was no chocolatey
option on the menu, this was more than
made up for by the wide selection of
cocktails. Of these, the Cau Go pho quencher
(VND120,000) stood out. Made from gin,
Cointreau, coriander, cinnamon, lime, anise
and cardamom, this unusual concoction is
all of Vietnam in a glass.
With the distant sounds of the players
riffing wildly down below and calling
you back to the present, this oasis is hard
to leave. But when you do, you can take
up your place in the orchestra once more
feeling rejuvenated. Dara O Foghlu
Cau Go Vietnamese Cuisine is at Floor 5 & 6,
7 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
hanoi
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE
SOCIETY (HITS)
hoan kiem
THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com
LESPACE
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT
PARIS DELI
B i
Triu
Hng
Hu
Phan
Chu
Trin
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Q u
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Hng
Phng
H n g G
Hng iu
Hng
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Qun
Nguy
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Trn
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Hn T
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MODEL CLUB
CATWALK BAR
45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung
8pm to late
PHUC TAN
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan
Kiem
RELAX BAR
HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem
ROOFTOP
SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B
Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3946 1901
8am to midnight
TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE
ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem
tadioto.com
Located close to the Opera
House, this alternative, arty
bar is garnished in red and
white on the outside, with
warm brown and tones of
blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging
Shanghai and San Francisco,
engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the
latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.
ZONE 17
CAF / BOULANGERIE
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269
7.30am to 11pm
Time has been good to this
airy, bistro-style caf and
patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital,
despite its prime location
prices remain reasonable
espresso-style coffees cost
around VND40,000 and
the cakes and croissants
are moreish. Also does filled
baguettes and a larger cafcum-restaurant menu. Has a
second establishment at 13
Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
Tin
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FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
6282 5555
Hoteldelopera.com
7am to 2am
La Fe Verte (or the Green
Fairy) is a metaphor for the
decadence of another age,
an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The
signature bar of the Hotel
de lOpra Hanoi where, just
as in Paris at the dawn of the
20th century, the making of an
evening drink a lavish event
of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge
atmosphere, great music and
ultra-contemporary interior
design combine to bring a
genuine sense of occasion to
after-dark in the capital.
CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem
facebook.com/bar84hanoi
Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable
sofa-like seating and grungy
decor related to a past make
up the mix at this venue put
together by the people behind Barbetta.
+84 BAR
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WILD WEST THEME BAR

98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822
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BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
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Tel: (04) 3825 0216

7am to 8pm
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HOAN KIEM
DISTRICT
BAMBOO BAR
17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem
The first bar in what will
eventually (hopefully) be a
zone dedicated to bars and

restaurants. A pool table, a
square bar in the middle of
the room and a barbecue until the early hours theres
quite an atmosphere in this
pleasant watering hole.
CAFES
CIAO CAF
RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3934 1494
7am to 11pm
A stones throw from the
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
this Saigonese franchise
tries its hand with a variety
of different western dishes
at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and
a steady, young Vietnamese
crowd, the establishment is
a great place to squash a
sandwich or bowl of pasta
and people watch. Oh, and
they also do coffee, too.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,
Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
TWITTER BEANS COFFEE

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760
twitterbeanscoffee.com
CINEMAS
CINEMATHEQUE
ARTS CINEMA
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648
Not a movie theatre per se,
but a private film club that
charges a membership fee in
return for entrance to a wide
selection of movies, new and
old. The management has
an eclectic taste and shows
films from all over the world.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES

AMERICAN CLUB
EVENT SPACE
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 1850
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

Tel: (04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com
EAT
AL FRESCOS
23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
ANGELINA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
11.30am to 2.30pm and
6.30am to late (restaurant)
11am to 2am (bar)
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts of
meat to the table for patrons
to pick and choose, all for a
set price. They also offer wine
pairings, a salad bar and an a
la carte menu, with a creative
selection of fruit caipirinhas
on hand to wash it all down.
The prices arent for anyone
on a budget, but the amount
and quality of meat is more
than worth cost.
CAF LAUTREC
MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
6282 5555
6am to 10pm
Featuring both -la-carte
and buffet dining as well
as an innovative Sunday
brunch, this namesake of the
French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a
mixture of international and
Mediterranean-style fare.
Has an extensive wine list
to match the cuisine, which
is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired
environment.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
Tel: (04) 3824 7280
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contem-
porary and thoughtfully

designed space over three
floors. Already with venues
in Saigon and Bangkok, the
essence of this popular
chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay, but everything
from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to
head to El Gaucho.
JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388
alfrescogroup.com
9.30am to midnight
Then newest venture from
the team behind Jaspas
and Pepperonis is an all-day
eating and drinking lounge fit
for all occasions. It has three
floors for different vibes
lounge bar, restaurant and
boardroom but fine imported steads can be found
on each, as well as seafood
and a huge wine list. A popular venue.
JASPAS
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba
Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
6.30am to midnight
Recently refurbished, the
Australian-influenced Jaspas is known for its attentive
service, tasty food and large
portions. A place with something for everyone, it has
proved itself to be popular
with both the western and
Asian expat communities
who come back again and
again. The comprehensive
menu is a fusion of western
and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is
mainly New World. Also has
a spacious bar and lounge
area that stays open late for
all the live sport.
LA BADIANE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3942 4509
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to
10pm. Closed Sunday night.
A white-washed, colonial
era villa replete with period
wooden shutters greets you
as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.
Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or
take to the leafy covered
terrace out back with its
walls lined with art and photography from 21st century
Hanoi. The menu here mixes
modern Gallic cuisine with a
touch of Mediterranean and
Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an
extensive wine list and an
excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.
hanoi
STUDENT EYE
CLASS PHOTOS
he other day, I had to stay at

school a bit later than usual.
Although its certainly not my
first time doing such a thing,
it is the first time I stopped to look at
what was around me. Suddenly, under
the pale glow of the nighttime lights,
the same bleached white walls that I
was so familiar with had an eerie feel to
them. Hallways and classrooms seemed
abandoned.
The temperature was slightly lower
than normal and being the extremely
courageous person that I know I am, I
hightailed it out of there without looking
back. Then I realised something.
The school I go to, prestigiously referred
to as the one-and-only French school in Hanoi,
has its own personal identity. Its pretty
clich to say it, but yes, we really do carry
ourselves with a certain je ne sais quoi
(dont ask, it literally translates to I dont
know what its that kind of charm).
Regardless of the fact that most of us
arent showing up to class out of our own
volition, we still are the only things that

make the school come alive. Knowing that,
we are all pretty neglectful when it comes
to immortalising the memories of our
presence.
But the school is more circumspect.
Every year around October or November,
each class spares half an hour out of their
packed schedules to go out to the preschool recess area and snap two pictures.
Click, click, done.
When we were in primary school, it felt
special. After 11 years (and 11 class photos),
its significance has somewhat faded.
What we arent aware of is that years
from now, when were too busy dealing
with our lives, when all of our old friends
have fallen into the little box of forgotten
things, those photos will be valuable
emotional proof of who we used to be,
footprints of our personal evolution.
Old and New

We or at least my generation, myself
included are currently more interested in
the new. The past (like my old class photos)

is generally tucked away in a neat corner,
somewhere between the Twilight Zone and
old socks.
But just the other day, a friend of mine
published a Facebook album filled with
past class photos (from our school, of
course) that go way back. In one, the
way the students dress seemed slightly
off in another, my history teacher still
has hair. It was then that I figured out
that what was old for some could be
completely new for me. And in a similar
way, our old class photos will someday
become new for us, somewhere down the
road of life.
This Christmas, I plan to hang my old
class photos up for display not as a
way to dwell on the past, but as a little
celebration of the old becoming new again.
To Thu Phuong
To Thu Phuong is a high school junior at
Alexandre Yersin French High School (Lyce
Franais Alexandre Yersin) in Hanoi, lfay.
com.vn
hanoi
FOOD PROMOS
Oysters at The Press Club
LE BEAULIEU
CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15
Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3826 6919
6am to 10am, 11.30am
to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to
10.30pm
LUNO DAUTUNNO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823
7338
11am to 11pm
This old-favourite Italian
uses traditional wood ovens
to prepare some of the citys
finest pizzas, which range
from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.
Set inside a large, thoughtful
space seasoned chefs also
make fresh pastas, soups
and cheeses the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights
make it well worth a visit, as
does the large wine list and
choice of desserts.
NINETEEN 11
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang
3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm
PANE E VINO
Dim Sum Mania

Enjoy all you can eat dim
sum between Monday and
Saturday this month at
the Fortuna Hotel. Diners
will also be able to feast
on a wide range of dim
sum, noodle and dessert
favourites with the venues
Sunday dim sum brunch
option and extensive a la
carte menu. Prices start at
VND298,000++ for adults
and VND 149,000++ for
kids
The Fortuna Hotel is at 6
Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
Oysters and mussels

at Press Club
Savour the taste of fresh
oysters and salty mussels
this month at the Press
Club. Tuck into fresh
oysters (VND32,000
each) or enjoy grilled
oysters served with green
onions, tomatoes and
cilantro (VND95,000 for
three). Diners can also try
specially prepared Oyster
Rock Fellers served with
sauted spinach and a
creamy cheese sauce (VND
95,000 for three).
If youre in the mood
for mussels, try them in

the classic mariniresstyle, served with French
fries or with blue cheese
sauce (both VND 305,000).
Otherwise, tuck into
a hearty plate of spicy
mussels spaghetti (VND
260,000) while enjoying
a complimentary glass of
Tiger beer.
The Press Club is at 59A
Ly Dao Thanh, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi
Sangria and Paella

Thursdays
Enjoy two free tapas dishes
with a jug of homemade
sangria after work, or,
enjoy real Spanish paella
on Thursdays for only
VND125,000 per serving
at La Bicicleta. Once
a favourite of dictator
General Franco, this
authentic, tasty treat is now
available at Hanois only
Barcelona bistro each week.
In addition, anyone who
travels to La Bicicleta by
bicycle will receive a 15
percent discount of their
bill.
La Bicicleta is at 44 Ngo 31
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi
Super Sunday Brunch

The JW Marriott in My
Dinh is pulling out all the
stops with their Super
Sunday Brunch at JW
Caf. Running every
Sunday from 12pm to
3pm, the buffet includes
lobster, pan-fried foie
gras, seafood and a
kids corner. At VND
1,100,000++ per person,
there's something for
everyone.
For more information or
to book, call (04) 3833 5588
(Sales Center)
A Date with Ming

Beat a path as fast as you
can to The Sofitel Plazas
Ming Restaurant this
month which goes all
Hong Kong action flick
every week thanks to its
all-you-can-eat Dim Sum
Sundays (VND660,000++
per adult and
VND420,000++ per child).
Yes, this is definitely a
concept that we Worders
can get right behind.
For more information or to
book, call (04) 3823 8888 ext.
5318 or email H3553-FB1@
sofitel.com
PAN-ITALIAN
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
8am to 10.30pm
Just a stroll away from the
Hanoi Opera House and
Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart
of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves
up authentic Italian food
and has done for as long as
anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated,
oven fresh pizzas and large
variety of pasta and salad
dishes look forward to fine
food done well at this eatery
that has the feel of Europe.
Huge wine lists, friendly staff
and a loveable owner.
PRESS CLUB
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To,
0888
hanoi-pressclub.com
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm
to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday
lunch
Wooden flooring, paneling
and bold but subtle colours
pervade this traditional but
contemporary, fine-dining
70-seater venue close to
the Opera House. Serving
up quality cuisine for over a
decade, Press Club boasts
a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine
room, a library and a vast
selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four
excellent wine pairing menus,
put together through the aid
of the Press Clubs extensive
new and old world wine list.
Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.
SATINE
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414
hoteldelopera.com
WRAP & ROLL

5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza,
Tel: (04) 3824 3718
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and
bright pastel colours of
Wrap n Roll are just part
of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand
which is all about spring rolls
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with
two restaurants in Hanoi
the second in Royal City.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR

CITIMART
SUPERMARKET
Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers,
Tel: (04) 3934 2999
DA LOC
WINE RETAILER
Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3941 2789
Daloc.vn
FIVIMART
SUPERMARKET
27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
HANOI GOURMET
DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3943 1009
Hanoigourmet.com
The long-running Hanoi
Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and
artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a
look at the deli and sit down
for a light snack.
INTIMEX
VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET
22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
PANE E VINO WINE SHOP
WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
This Italian favourite with a
huge food menu also has a
huge for-retail wine list that
is 100 percent focused on
fine wines and liquors from
Italy. Owner Hoang has great
knowledge of Italian wine and
a passion to match, which is
sure to land you with the best
wine for any occasion.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04)
3943 7226
WESTERN CANNED FOODS
GROCERY STORE
Tel: (04) 3934 3854
hanoi
THE ALCHEMIST
A DIGITAL DETOX
s we leave behind the seasons

holiday festivities, it can be all
too easy to quickly re-immerse
ourselves into the fast pace of
our everyday lives. Creating sacred time
and space helps us to manage the stresses
of life and keep us balanced mentally,
emotionally and physically.
Jack Kornfield, one of the leading
Buddhist teachers in America, says,
When we get caught up in the busyness
of the world, we lose connection with one
another and ourselves. Letting go of the
busyness allows us to enter into a greater
state of communion with ourselves and to
lead a more authentic life.
The following are suggestions for
staying more connected to ourselves
as well as those around us in 2015 and
beyond.
Disconnect!
In todays high tech world we are virtually
plugged in 24/7. Even with our devices
turned off, the amount of electromagnetic
energy constantly running in the
background is enough to affect our quality
of life on various levels sleep, mood,
concentration and overall wellness.
The negative effect of being tethered
to our technology has been presented
in numerous scientific publications,
and although it is not feasible for every

individual to completely disconnect
from the digital world, setting time
away from our devices is more and more
recommended by medical and mental
health officials around the world.
By disconnecting, we are able to
recharge our mind and body, rest our
brain, develop our creative side and be
available for opportunities that invite
intellectual stimulation.
Connect to Nature
Another way to recharge our body, mind
and spirit is to get outside. There is
growing empirical evidence that direct
exposure to nature is essential for the
physical and emotional health of children
and adults.
Studies show that a 20-minute walk
in nature is enough to not only alleviate
symptoms of depression and boost vitality
levels but also reduce stress and enhance
mental clarity. Nature brings us to the here
and now, it teaches us about the circle of
life and our interconnectedness. Nature
offers us the opportunity to re-establish
our authentic connection to the planet and
thus the universe.
Be Present
Maintaining authentic connections to the
BY KAREN GAY
people in our lives is essential for healthy

relationships. Engaging with our digital
device in the presence of others sends
a clear message that we are not fully
present, that our mind is elsewhere. This
type of behaviour can adversely affect
our relationships, creating feelings of
frustration and lack of worth.
Allowing our devices to constantly
be the primary focus in our lives affects
the nature of how we interact with those
around us. If left unchecked there is a risk
of losing the openness and depth that can
come from a meaningful interaction with
the person in front of us.
Unplug Yourself
Just as a dietary detox can help us balance
the bodys systems and enhance our
wellness, so too can a digital detox help
re-establish the equilibrium in our lives as
we reconnect to ourselves, to each other
and to nature.
If you would like to try a digital
detox join the upcoming National Day of
Unplugging and discover the richness of life
off the grid. Visit nationaldayofunplugging.
com for more information.
Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is
a holistic health practitioner practicing in
Hanoi. For information on the types of services
provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com
tay ho
ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES /
CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES
n
A n Dng V g
TAY HO
DISTRICT
Lc
Lo
ng
Qu
n
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n
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Tn
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Xu
THE REPUBLIC
MODERN SPORTS BAR

7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116
republic.vn
A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery
showing live sport and boasting a convivial
atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food
menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials
and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.
hi
Ng
c Long Qun
u
Di
u
n
Ni
Thanh
Th
ARTS
WORK ROOM FOUR
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No.
49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho
workrmfour@gmail.com
workrmfour.tumblr.com
A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room
Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective
that promotes collaboration and new ideas,
exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.
BARS & CLUBS

88 LOUNGE
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029.
88group.vn
5pm to late
A wine bar with a difference, this addition to
the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes
contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle
lighting and an international aesthetic with
one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele.
Well worth a visit.
HANOI ROCK CITY
LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633
166170
hanoirockcity.com
5pm to midnight
With a downstairs, English-style pub garden
area and an upstairs space dedicated to live
music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is
the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has
weekly live events featuring bands both from
Thm
g
Ho
Ph
Qun Th
Phan
nh P
h n g
nh
Ho
n
Bi
oa
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Y
N guyn Phong S c
Tm
Ho
n
Hong Quc Vit
TAY TAP
BAR & GRILL

No. 20, Lane 50/59/17, Dang Thai Mai, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917
taytap.com
Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with beer and cider on tap, this
recently relocated venue next to Da Paolo
mixes contemporary international comfort
food on the first floor with live music and an
often raucous atmosphere. Amazing West
Lake views from their top floor terrace.
Ngu
yn
Ho
ng
delivery from nearby favorites. Non-smoking,

unpretentious, dog-friendly.
Vietnam and overseas established and up

and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out
their page on Facebook.
HOUSE OF SON TINH
LIQUOR LOUNGE
31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377
sontinh.com
8am to 11.30pm
As part of the Highway 4 group, which now
has its offices in the establishments upstairs
areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted
with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed
for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly
created cocktail class. Does regular events
on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold
at other restaurants in the chain.
MADAKE
CONTEMPORARY RESTOBAR
81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665
or 0984 002181
With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar and restaurant is ideal
for those seeking a fusion of Western and
Eastern cuisine. Famed for its many weekday and weekend events, the ambient Asianstyle dcor, weekend DJ nights and general
atmosphere makes Madake a popular West
Lake go-to joint.
RED RIVER TEA ROOM
LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho
Open daily from 2pm.
Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan
Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers
a selection of international and local beers,
wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake.
Serving pies and pasties from The Cart,
Vietnamese food from Dieus next door, or
TRACYS PUB AND GRILL
SPORTS BAR/GRILL
40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
11am to 12am
This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on
the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually
crowded with regulars drinking out front
on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouthwatering burgers, cooked fresh to order,
Tracys is most famous for their draft beers,
claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in
Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those
missing their dose of North American sports,
they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.
BOOK SHOPS
BOOKWORM TOO
NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS

1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829
2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary scene since 2001. It has been
around the block quite a bit and now shares
a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over
15,000 new and second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys
used books and offers free travel advice. Has
a second shop in Tay Ho
CAFES
COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
7am to 10pm
Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town
than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for
the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea,
the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/
outdoor caf overlooking Westlake. With its
LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in
you might just forget that youre in Westlake.
hanoi
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CHAIN
Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
7am to 11pm
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
COFFEE/BAKERY
(04) 3718 6071
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KUB CAFE
BIKING CAFE
so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho
kub.vn
Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub
Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole
bringing thats become a favorite of the motorbike clubs.
Does good on-the-table bia
hoi and runs biking events.
SAINT HONORE
CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3933 2355
st.honorehn@gmail.com
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this
cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in
the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk
through the door. Serving
all day long, the downstairs
space is split into the bakery
on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the
other. The homely upstairs
lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.
Simple but tasty French and
international fare is served
at meal times.
TET DCOR CAF
ART CAF & ESPRESSO BAR

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai,
Tay Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
8am to 6pm, Tuesday to
Sunday
Cloistered among the back
streets of West Lake and
sheltered from the noise of
Xuan Dieu, TET Dcor Caf is
a destination for those who
appreciate lifes pleasures:
coffee, food, art and music.
Simple and unpretentious,
the caf has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel
combined with unique and

inspiring art installations.
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam
Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938
2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small cozy caf and sandwich bar hidden away in
Nghi Tam Village. Serves
and delivers tasty baguettes,
homemade juices, quiches,
pies, muffins and cakes. The
delivery service is quick and
reliable, which makes this
lunchtime favourite ideal
for when you need to eat at
the desk.
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE

(THBC)
CAF / TAPAS BAR

44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
9am to 10pm
Tucked down an alleyway
just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not
just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a caf that also sells
Spanish tapas served up
with gin & tonic, if the mood
so takes you. Organising
bicycle tours, running yoga
sessions and holding music
concerts in their upstairs
cafe area, they also sell, rent
and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and
SURLY cycling equipment.
Eclectic? Not a chance!
CLOTHING
0912 254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese
culinary classes are offered
in these well-appointed and
clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you
through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open
air courtyard.
HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS

VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE
68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0976 848301
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BETTERWORLD
GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Fair trade or bought directly
from the artisans who made
them, Betterworld stocks
unusual handicrafts from
around the world as well as
second-hand books, DVDs
and more.
LA CASA
CONTEMPORARY DESIGN
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084
lacasavietnam.com.vn
A shop whose speciality
is designing furniture and
other household objects,
this spot has everything from
beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The
items are all locally made by
skilled artisans from Hanoi
and the surrounding regions.
MEKONG QUILTS
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
(04) 3718 6233
With new styles arriving in
store every second day, this
shop offers a huge range of
dresses, shirts, pants, skirts
and accessories in local and
imported fabrics. Clothes fit
all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure.
Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
LATELIER
CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS
GEORGES FASHION BOUTIQUE
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

(04) 3718 6758
ateliervietnam.com
Stocks womens wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique
offers both ready-to-wear
and made-to-fit clothing.
COOKING CLASSES
HIDDEN HANOI
COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel:
(Bamboo) and First (balance) bicycles and cycling

equipment. Also rent bicycles (city, MTB or touring)
and organise guided bicycle
tours under the name Urban
Discovery, with a 25-year
experienced European mechanic as part of the team.
Closed Mondays.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
(04) 3719 5322
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
COUSINS
3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel:
01238 670098
A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine
at reasonable prices in a
spacious, airy atmosphere.
Blackboards, whitewashed,
bare-brick walls, period tiles,
a well-chosen wine list and
an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the
formula.
DA PAOLO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang
Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6317
11am to 11pm
This airy, contemporary
looking Italian restaurant
next to the famed lawn chair
and coconut caf on West
Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic.
Run by the long time former
manager of Luna DAutunno,
it features scrumptious
wood-fired oven pizzas from
VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every
day for lunch and dinner,
delivery is also available.
DALUVA
BICYCLE RENTALS
3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
(04) 3718 5831
daluva.com
8am until late
A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area
on West Lake. This bar and
restaurant offers casual
dining with a classy, MiddleEastern twist, as well as
wine, tapas, events and attractive dcor.
THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE)
DONS TAY HO
DONS TAY HO
CYCLING COLLECTIVE
29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 3156
thbc.vn
A place for bicycle lovers,
THBC is the official supplier
of ORBEA, DEDA, MEKONG
CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
Monday to Friday, 10am to
late. Weekends 8am to late
This lake-facing venue with

its top floor Oyster Bar is the
work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine
connoisseur Donald Berger.
Focusing on comfort food
done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything
from wood-grilled rare tuna
steak with fragrant Chinese
black bean beurre noir to
gourmet pizza and pasta
dishes such as the likes of
Iberian pata negro ham egg
pasta served with crushed
roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range
of imported oysters and has
an extensive wine list.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
(04) 3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully
designed space over three
floors. Already with venues
in Saigon and Bangkok, the
essence of this popular
chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay, but everything
from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to
head to El Gaucho.
Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and

Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood no
problem, Lobster, Oysters,
Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams
and Crabs are all available
for your dining pleasure, as
well as an impressive array
of wines by the glass & bottle
from our
IL FARO
ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN
Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel
Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6327 1142
Hidden away in Cong Doan
Hotel, this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned
by the same people behind
Mediterraneo serves up
an assortment of French,
Spanish and Italian dishes
in a pleasant, white-washed
yet Italian-influenced atmosphere.
INDIA PALACE
NORTH INDIAN
10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel:
01247 668668
indiapalacehn@vnn.vn
Like a phoenix rising from
the ashes, so India Palace
has once again returned
to Tay Ho, this time on the
strip between Dons and The
Warehouse. Tasty North
Indian fare in a pleasant
environment from the team
behind Tandoor.
J.A.F.A.
HALIA HANOI
SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY
INTERNATIONAL
(04) 3946 0121
thehalia.com
Daily 11am to 11pm
A multi-floored venue with a
bar area and a refined dining
space. The menu includes
Singaporean specialities
such as the shrimp satay
salad and the chilli crab
spaghetti. A pan-European
classical menu mixed in with
light Asian flavours is also
on offer. Has an extensive
wine list.
HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL
CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD

Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719
9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm
to 10pm
The newest Steak & Seafood
dining experience in Hanoi.
Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the
Northern and Southern
hemispheres. Choose from
Black Angus, US Prime
INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3758 2400
7am to 11pm
One of the larger and more
comfortable bars in Hanoi,
J.A.F.A. is a great place for
drinking cocktails by the
pool. The beverages are
not the cheapest, but this is
made up for by service and
ambiance. They also have a
full menu featuring familiar
western dishes such as pizza
and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are
also offered.
KITCHEN
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE

(04) 3719 2679
hungskitchen@gmail.com
7am to 9pm
Set inside a newly renovated house with a large
courtyard, Kitchen is a great
space for eating the decent
breakfasts (check out the
breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and
the selection of international
salads. Also does a range of
Mexican dishes (available
after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy,
smoothie-style drinks.
R&R TAVERN
RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6295 8215
Now on its third location, this
watering hole still lives up to
its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter,
and of course, some quality live
rock music. Its upstairs area is
equipped with a sound system
and stage setup for weekly shows
and events, while the downstairs
area houses a classic bar that
gives a finishing touch to the
friendly community environment.
SAINT HONORE
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
3933 2355
sainthonore.com.vn
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this bakery
and French-style bistro is best
visited in the morning when that
Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through
the door. The downstairs space is
split into the bakery on one side
with a small non-smoking dining
space on the other. The upstairs
lounge area has standard tables
as well as sofa seating. Simple
French and international fare
is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien,
Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8
Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da
THE PIE SHOP
TAKEAWAY PIES
2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena
Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 1507
thepieshophanoi@gmail.com
Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style
savoury pies and rolls. Available
in three convenient sizes (mini,
regular and large). Enjoy them
hot as a takeaway, or frozen to
keep for later.
EXPAT SERVIES
MAID IN VIETNAM
HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES
Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 3112
maidinvietnam.com
Offering a licensed hire service
for trained domestic and office
housemaids, cooks and nannies.
Courses include health checks,
housekeeping, safety, basic 1st
Aid, courses for external maids
and household management for
Vietnamese wives of foreigners.
3718 6281
elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment,
separate cardio and spinning
areas and an indoor swimming
pool with a retractable roof. The
spacious studios and natural
light make it a welcoming place
to squeeze in a work out, but be
prepared to pay. This place is top
of the range.
HANOI CLUB
ELITE FITNESS
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

L'S PLACE
GROCERY SHOP
3719 9911
hanoinetball@gmail.com
Hanoi Ois Netball Club is a mixed
ability, mixed gender club for
adults wanting to enjoy team
sport while also improving fitness and developing skills. The
club plays every Tuesday from
6pm to 7pm at UNIS. Email for
more information
VIETCLIMB
PUNTO ITALIA
HANOI OIS
CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel:
0914 143185
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find,
VietClimb is a French-owned,
200-meter climbing gym with
state-of-the-art courses. There
are 100 different climbing routes
within the gym that are changed
every few months. They offer
clinics, classes and childrens
events. Membership and group
rates are available, but be sure to
check out the three-month pass.
ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923
0253
An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety
of levels and styles, including
prenatal and postnatal classes,
restorative yoga, pilates and tai
chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates
mats, books, clothes, soaps,
Himalayan products and other
essential yoga equipment.
COFFEE MACHINES
62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6258 3510
puntoitalia.asia
Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace
or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their
own brand coffee in capsules,
ready ground or as the original
roasted mix of beans.
ANNAM GOURMET
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 4487
KITCHENWARE
6680 2770
kitchenart.vn
Kitchen Art is a little haven for
all foodies, cooks and bakers
to grow their love and passion
for cooking and baking. Come to
Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients
MEDICAL & DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

3934 0666
Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic also
known for its quality emergency
services. Doctors and consultants
also provide a range of services
from standard GP-style checkups through to vaccinations,
paediatrics and specialist care.
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL

CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555
westcoastinternational.com
The Westcoast International
Dental Clinic is composed of
dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental
services throughout Vietnam.
The clinic provides the highest
quality technology, comfort and
after-service care to patients.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04)
3719 8337
THE OASIS
ITALIAN DELI
3719 1196
A great place to get all kinds of
imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads
and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of
fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a
fantastic deli and cheese case.
Free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS
com
a-roamingbodyworker.com
Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include
craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage,
healing stones massage, as well
as energy healing including Reiki
and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops
are also available.
NATURALLY VIETNAM
ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130
naturallyvietnam.com
Offers food and beverage
produced in Vietnam with full
traceability and strict food
safety controls. Meat, egg, milk,
fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit
juices, liquors, coffee, water,
ice cream. Also, every Saturday
from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the
team convert the store yard into
the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a
cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for
expats and Vietnamese.
COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823
8115
thehanoiclub.com
KITCHEN ART
FITNESS & YOGA
to cook like a chef, take part in

regular demonstrations and
workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying
the peaceful West Lake view.
WINE RETAILER
27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3718 3701
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams ultimate premium wine importer,
distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest
wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The
portfolio mixes the best of both
old and new world wines.
HOLISTIC HEALTH
A-ROAMING BODYWORKER
karen@a-roamingbodyworker.
SUPERMARKETS
BIG C SUPERMARKET
222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay
CITIMART HANOI TOWERS

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung
FIVIMART
210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan
Kiem
10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh
671 Hong Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh
71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da
51 Xun Dieu, Tay Ho
93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
Online shopping: www.fivimart.
com.vn
HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET

36 Cat Linh, Dong Da
INTIMEX
22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da
17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung
27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da
METRO
126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang
Mai
Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu
Liem
hanoi
THE THERAPIST
This month Douglas Holwerda,

American trained and licensed mental
health counsellor, talks about the
cultural dimensions of psychology
Dear Douglas,
I am Vietnamese and interested in
psychology. I read your letters every month
in the Word. I look at the lesson and feel like
it is right for me, but sometimes I wonder if
it doesnt fit for Vietnamese people. Do you
have Vietnamese patients? Does psychology
work for them the same as for other people?
Curious Hanh
Dear Curious Hanh,
Thank you for asking a very good question
about how culture is a part of psychology.
As a psychotherapist it is important to be
very aware of cultural differences as I work
with clients. There is research in the field
that tries to understand which traits are
universally human, as opposed to what is
culturally and circumstantially determined
in the way people think, feel and respond to
life. Gender, age or developmental stages,
socioeconomic conditions and even sibling
position (birth order) are other aspects
of psychology, and are considered when
providing therapy.
You are asking me specifically about how
it might be different for me to work with
a Vietnamese person than someone from
another country. One of the reasons I am
living in Vietnam is because I am interested
in understanding more about Eastern
thought the psychology of people here
and its influence on life.
I do see differences that are unlike the

differences I see between those people
within Western culture. I have done
presentations in Hanoi, in the past, as a
way of trying to help people resolve with
their frustrations or confusion when they
deal with people who think and function
differently than the ways they have become
socialised to think and function.
Without realising it we are all full of
internal norms that guide our assumptions
and expectations when we communicate
with others. We have values, predicated on
those of the culture or family we grew up in
that might not be part of our own awareness.
We all interpret the world around us and
particularly the actions of others through
the lens of our own culturally-influenced
perspective. This can lead to conflict,
confusion and judgements that reinforce
stereotypes and set people in opposition to
one another us and them.
Understanding that these differences are
built-in but not really part of what connects
us as humans, allows us to suspend our
differences in order to find the common
ground on which we can live and function
together. Sometimes it means to agree to
disagree. It is part of creating the bridges
we need to function together in the modern
world. But, this is not the same as what we
do in therapy.
Psychotherapy can work for many
different cultures because it is not a place

where you come to get advice or to be told
what you should do. As a therapist, I try
to guide the process of self-discovery by
helping people identify what is wrong
why they are coming to see me and to
see if insight into oneself and knowledge
about common problems (like depression or
anxiety) can combine to empower a person
to change. People often feel better simply
from increasing their awareness and from
feeling cared for and supported by someone
who is trying to understand.
Sometimes we carry unresolved issues or
distorted beliefs about ourselves for a long
time, and in discovering the ways they are
affecting us we unburden ourselves from
the weight they impose. Sometimes we need
encouragement to stand up for ourselves, set
boundaries and/or make changes that are in
line with the person we have become.
Therapy is meant to be stylised to the
individual and the problems they are
presenting. There is no right way to live that
applies to everyone. The important thing is
that therapy is helping you be you. I hope I
have answered your questions.
Be well,
Douglas
Do you have a question you would like
Douglass help with? You can email him at
douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details
will not be printed
hanoi
ba dinh
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT /
FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL
FOODSHOP 45
Ph
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

BARBETTA
ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3734 9134
ETE BAR
FRENCH LOUNGE
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 751331
10am to midnight
A favourite among those who
roam further west of the
city centre, this multi-storey
restobar has been going
strong for more than two
years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar
guarding exactly 50 different
cocktails. For many the Ete
burger is right on the mark
as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. Its always
crowded especially during the weekends. Amiable
staff, pleasant vibes.
SUMMIT LOUNGE
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3823 8888 ext. 5314
4pm to Midnight Sunday to
Wednesday, 4pm to 2am
Thursday to Saturday
ALTERNATIVE DANCE CLUB

18 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh
facebook.com/vaulthanoi
The work of Mao, the enigmatic personality behind
Maos Red Lounge and The
Ho
Coach House, this underground homage to nighttime

decadence sits in the gap
between The Old Quarter
and West Lake, bringing in a
range of DJs and nightly entertainment. A great addition
to the scene.
BOOKSHOPS
BOOKWORM
BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
CAFES
CAF GOETHE
ARTS CAF
56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 3734 7395
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 2247 0602
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
Ca B
c
quaint cafe, most patrons

are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CHAIN
28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh
(Next to the Flag Tower) Tel:
(04) 3823 3339
7am to 11pm
MANZI
ARTS CAF & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
A stunningly designed contemporary caf and events
space that screams out the
words modern art. Housed
in a converted colonial-era
villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows
make up the mix here. Great
cuisine, too.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES

GOETHE INSTITUT
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh
B Tr
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Hng
Bi
Q u n
Phng
Trn
Hn
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Khm Thin
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Nguyn
Tri Ph
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Hng
Th
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Th
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La
Trn
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Na
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Giai
L iu
Ct Lin
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Diu
Vng
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Cao
Liu
Giai
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Trn Ph
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La Th
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Cha Lng
Hu
Ngu
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L Thi T
Kim M
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Sn Ty
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Xu
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Phng
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Kim M
THE VAULT
Phan
nh
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Kh
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hT
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Ph
Qun
Hong
Hoa
Th
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Th
Ngu
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Hong
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Th
Thanh
Ho
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Hong Quc Vit
Ni
Hng
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BA DINH
DISTRICT
Trn Nhn Tng
Tel: (04) 3734 2251

goethe.de/hanoi
COOKING CLASSES
HANOI COOKING CENTRE
COOKING CENTRE
(04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a
school, retail outlet and caf,
where you can find classes
on not just Vietnamese
cooking, but international
cuisine, held in a beautiful
setting. They also offer culinary tours.
EAT
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
Open for over a decade,
Au Lac Do Brazil is home to
the Hanoi's best Churrasco
menu with a wide variety of
meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through
to D-rump steak and smoked
hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in
Vietnam, Passadors bring
the meat skewers to your
table, and you, the customer
then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.
Best washed down with red
wine or a Caipirinha or five.
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3716 2959
10am to 10.30pm
Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history
that screams empathy make
this eatery one of the most
popular Indians in town. Selling an international version
of the mighty curry they
even sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the
northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza,
korma and the more Goan
vindaloo taking centre stage.
Also has a good range of
breads and tandoor-cooked
kebabs.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3771 6372
10am to midnight
HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT

SONG THU
(04) 3942 4448
hoasuaschool.com
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
MATCHBOX
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3734 3098
11am to 11pm
MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE
PAN-CHINESE
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
Elegant and luxurious, May
Man has long been regard-
ed as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.

Showcasing a selection of
authentic Chinese culinary
delights and Yum Cha at its
finest, with seven private
dining rooms this is a place
to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim
sum menus and set menus.
Reservations recommended.
MING PALACE
PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
A fine dining destination at
the Sofitel Plaza serving
Cantonese and pan-Chinese
cuisine in a sleek modern
setting with private dining
rooms. With more than 80
dim sum selections available
along with Chinese entrees,
Mings is an ideal eatery for
those hungry for higher end
Chinese fare.
THE BISTRO
FRENCH FLAIR
2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3726 4782
thebistro.com.vn
7.30am to 9pm
A modern eatery offering
western cuisine with shades
of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink
and food deals and a warm
indoor atmosphere you
know, just how the French
do it.
FITNESS & YOGA

N SHAPE FITNESS
MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi
Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
MEDICAL & DENTAL

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE
MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
On the little street directly
below Kim Ma, with all sorts
of specialists including OB/
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT.
A Medium-sized practice
with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they
are used to treating expats.
Also a 24-hour emergency
service.
hanoi
MEDICAL BUFF
5 TIPS ON PREPARING FOR EMERGENCIES
y global standards Vietnam is a

safe place to live for foreigners
violent crime is relatively low
and the sluggish traffic makes
high-speed collisions rare. But accidents
and medical emergencies, ranging from
severe food poisoning and heart attacks
to motorbike/ road accidents and bar
fights, can happen to anybody.
Almost everyone who has been in
a medical emergency wishes that they
had done something differently: namely
preparation. The following five simple tips
are worth remembering and may help you
should the unexpected occur.
Tip #1 Know Your Numbers

The thing that often stalls medical
treatment and notification of family is
simply that the information isnt available.
So its worthwhile storing emergency
numbers for family and anyone else
involved with your household, as well
as your insurance details and preferred
hospital address in all of your family
phones. International SOS even has
a smartphone app, ensuring all your
personal information is just one click away.
Tip #2 Know Where to Go

Plan which hospital or clinic youll go to in
case of an emergency, and have it written

down in Vietnamese to avoid confusion.
If you do have to call an ambulance, you
may be expected to pay for the ride to the
hospital in cash. This is particularly the
case with local ambulance providers, so
keep a few million VND in cash at home at
all times.
Tip #3 Treat Chronic Conditions

Many medical emergencies result from
missing medication or poor control of
medical problems like diabetes or asthma.
Make sure that you have a regular checkup for any chronic condition and have
enough medication, especially when
travelling.
You should also be aware that not
all medication is available in Vietnam
due to different regulations. Consider
bringing enough medication from your
home country or speak to your doctors or
pharmacists about starting on a locallyavailable alternative.
And if you do start feeling ill, symptoms
should be treated early in order to avoid
complications.
Tip #4 Learn CPR

Hopefully youll never have to use it,
but its simple to learn and could save a
BY DR. HERVE MANGON
life. And while youre at it, have anyone

involved in your household learn it as well.
I would also recommend having first aid
kits at home to deal with minor conditions.
Tip # 5 Build a Support Network

Expats living in Vietnam may lack a strong
support network meaning a person
you can count on when push comes to
shove. It certainly helps to have a local
friend or colleague you know will help out
(especially if you dont speak Vietnamese)
on speed dial in case you find yourself in a
local hospital.
Save These Numbers, Save a Life

Police: 113
Fire: 114
Ambulance: 115
International SOS Hanoi Clinic: (04) 3934
0666
International SOS Ho Chi Minh City
Clinic: (08) 38298520
International SOS Vung Tau Clinic: (06)
4385 8776
Dr. Herve Mangon is Chief Medical
Officer at International SOS Hanoi Clinic.
International SOS is located in Hanoi, Saigon
and Vung Tau for more information, go to
internationalsos.com
hanoi
Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
elsewhere
A DONG PHOTO CO
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION
RECREATION
KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL
BARS & CLUBS

CAMA ATK
MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 01262 054970
Wednesday to Saturday,
6pm to midnight
With well-poured drinks, a
foosball table, no smoking
and a midnight closing time,
CAMA ATK knows exactly
what it wants to be and
thats refreshing. The space
is a part time venue for
smaller acts and DJs. The
venue is hip, comfortable
and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable
place to pull up a stool and
take pulls in a relaxed haven.
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS
CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088
VUVUZELA
MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba
Trung
CAF 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342
7.30am to 9.30pm
FRENCH GRILL
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc
Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04)
3833 5588
facebook.com/frenchgrill
Every day 6pm to 11pm
With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in
wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy
restaurant offers guests
a service experience with
crafted food difficult to find
in the capital.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3796 2647
10am to midnight
CAFES
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE
152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai
Ba Trung
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HAM HANH
ARTSY CAFE
170 Doi Can, Dong Da
The physical representation of arts, film and music
collective, The Onion Cellar,
this cafe with multiple areas
is as left field as the people
who created it.
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7.00am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
KY Y
JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386
11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to
10.30pm, closed Sunday
rant, bar and lounge blends

the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like
profiteroles with green tea
and caf fillings, a private
chefs table with a kitchen
view, and an extensive wine
list combined with modern
formal styling bring a unique
experience to Hanoi.
WILD LOTUS
CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE

55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204
potsnpans.vn
11.30am to late
Brought to you by a group of
former disadvantaged youth
from Hanois own KOTO, this
unique fine dining restau-
SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn
ALPHA LAPTOP
95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 4418
FUONG MAY ANH

5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3213 1568
NGUYEN CAU
ICE SKATING
Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen
Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936
469799
royalcity.com.vn
1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
X-FACTORY LASER TAG
HI-TECH USA
LASER TAG
77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai
Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106
x-factory-vn.com
DK COMPUTER
29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel:
3772 4772
23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan

Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261
PICO PLAZA
35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem
MEDICAL & DENTAL

POTS N PANS
ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK
128 Hang Trong, Hoan

Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732
FRENCH HOSPITAL
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
Do you think you should be

listed on these pages? If so,
simply email us on
listings@wordvietnam.com
and well see what we can
do. We cant promise but
well try our best
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,
PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER
CARE AND IT SERVICES
No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983
011081
VIETSAD
34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 8771
SWIMMING POOLS
ARMY HOTEL
33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896
FOUR SEASONS
Say...
14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong

Da. Tel: 3537 6250
HANOI CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8115
www.hanoi-club.com
HORISON FITNESS CENTER

40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3733 0808
MELIA HOTEL
Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343
OLYMPIA
4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049
SAO MAI
10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 3161
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS

CENTER
1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8888
THAN NHAN
EAT
ASAHI SUSHI
11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to

9.15pm
Situated in an art-deco villa
that was once owned by
a Vietnamese mandarin,
this establishment is now
owned and run by perhaps
the most famous French chef
in the country. With modestly
priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on
the dishes, which primarily
come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up
market establishment lures
in its high class customers
with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.
SWIMMING POOL
Landmark 72 Tower, Pham
Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)
3772 3801
landmark72.com
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
CONG CAPHE
ELECTRONICS
LA VERTICALE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3944 6317
verticale-hanoi.com
Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung,

(Inside the park)
THANG LOI HOTEL

200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
hanoi
BOOK BUFF
This month, Bookworms Truong recaps the book groups latest reads on cities
Jerusalem The Biography
Hanoi, Biography of a City
One member gave a rave review about

the recently released paperback, Jerusalem
The Biography, by Simon Sebag
Monteffiore.
It begins about 3,000 years ago, when
King David captured a small mountain
stronghold in Canaan and set up a city
that covered about 5 hectares and housed
around 1,200 people. It ends with the
Israeli occupation of the city in 1967, after
the Six Day War.
No occupation of Jerusalem has
lasted for any great historical length of
time and as the author suggests in
his epilogue, the present occupiers are
definitely on shaky ground.
Its a gripping book packed with
fascinating and grisly details, as it follows
Jerusalems history that was, and still is,
one of betrayal, looting, rape, massacre,
sadistic torture, fanaticism, persecution,
corruption, hypocrisy and spirituality.
None of the occupiers be they Hebrew,
Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Crusader,
Ottoman, Albanian, Christian or Zionist
have been anything but bloodthirsty.
Israeli intellectual Amos Oz says of
Jerusalem: The city has been destroyed,
rebuilt, destroyed and rebuilt again.
Jerusalem is an old nymphomaniac who
squeezes lover after lover to death before
shrugging him off with a yawn. Shes
a black widow who devours her mates
while they are penetrating her.
Its a brilliant historical read but
the fainthearted should be aware that
slaughter abounds in each chapter
sometimes on every page.
A second group member brought up a

biography closer to home, William Logans
Hanoi, Biography of a City, which is in
constant demand by historians, architects,
urban planners and sociologists.
Its a scholarly book and is a
multidisciplinary survey within a
historical framework, supported by maps,
illustrations and photos. It traces the
growth of the city from the lengthy Chinese
imprint, through the French colonial halfcentury, the brief Japanese occupation and
the transformation during post-American
War reconstruction.
The last two chapters deal with the
supercharged growth since Doi Moi,
the impact of the charge into capitalism
and overheated building booms, and the
need to preserve a lot of the citys unique
architectural heritage.
Istanbul: Memories and the City

One group member came from a more
literary perspective and held up Nobel
Prize winner Orhan Pamuks Istanbul:
Memories and the City. Its Pamuks
childhood memoir of a city that is far more
varied and exotic than any of its European
counterparts. It is written in a painterly way
and presents elegant miniatures of scenes
piled upon eloquent scenes.
Its got loads of photos and is an
amazing portrait of a city at a mid-century
crossroads, as it came to terms with
Westernisation and being part of Europe
while balancing tradition and Islam.
Parmuk loves his city and presents it, warts
and all.
Its the type of book that you read more

than once, and if youve ever been to
Istanbul, it will stir up your travel bugs
to get back for a while and re-explore the
Bosphorus. If you plan to go to Turkey
soon then it will make you drool with
anticipation. Its that good!
The Epic of Gilgamesh

Our lover of antiquarian artefacts and history
lets us into the secret of Gilgamesh the epic
poem telling the story of Uruk, now a ruin in
southern Iraq that was used by the US Army
as target practice during its recent invasions.
The poem the oldest book in the
world, chiseled into stone tablets
has been translated by David Stephen
Mitchell and titled The Epic of Gilgamesh.
Its the creation legend of the ancient
Mesopotamian city of Ur, telling of the
young giant Gilgamesh and his quest for
immortality which like most of such
quests is doomed to heroic failure.
Mitchell tells the story like a modern
action film that, as it unfolds, has similarities
to other creation stories. For example,
there are Garden of Eden and great flood
scenarios. Mitchell has translated other epics
such as Tao Te Ching and the Bhagavad-Gita
with the same contemporary verve.
A reviewer, Ray Olsen, says that Mitchel
understands the poem to be overarchingly
concerned with self-discovery and
acceptance, while also appreciating that
humans are mortal, hence less than the
gods, but also capable of love, and thus
greater than mere gods.
For more information on Bookworm go to
bookwormhanoi.com
Ho Chi Minh City

BUSINESS BUFF // JOB SEARCH // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS //
THE EMPTY WOK // TOP EATS // A WORLD OF GOOD
PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY
HCMC
business
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES /
EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE /
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS /
RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING
PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS
Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796
pwc.com
SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES
6th Floor, Me Linh Point

Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
0938 220 255
vivianwcooper@gmail.com
TMF GROUP
Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon

Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910
2262
Tmg-group.com
ADVERTISING & MKTG

BBDO VIETNAM
74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 6662
bbdoasia.com
COWAN STRATEGIC BRAND

DESIGN
16th Floor, Bitexco Office

Tower, 1925 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064
cowandesign.com
GREY GROUP
led communications company helps brands connect

and grow across Southeast
Asia. Clients include The
CocaCola Company, Asia
Pacific Breweries, Piaggio
and UPI.
404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)

3929 1450
grey.com/vietnam
PURPLE ASIA
DENTSU VIETNAM
AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005
Dentsu.com.vn
INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA
Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3740 6388
industrialdesignasia.com
MARKETEERS VIETNAM
FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh

Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933
3493
marketeersvietnam.com
OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower,
7274, Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821
9529
ogilvy.com
PHIBIOUS
7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia

Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933
3377
phibious.com
An independent, creative
9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh

Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050
purpleasia.com
RED | BRAND BUILDERS
Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45

Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820
0169
red.vn
Long-established branding
consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team
creates and shapes unique
marketing strategies that
add impact to international
and local brands from Vietnam to Australia.
RIVER ORCHID
10th Floor HDTC Building,
36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 2538
riverorchid.com
SAATCHI & SAATCHI

26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08)
3824 1207
saatchi.com
Ranked among the top 100
global advertising agencies,
S&S has worked with over
half of the 50 bestknown
brands in the world, providing advertisement planning,
direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic
design.
TBWA\VIETNAM
4th Floor, Saigon Finance
Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315
tbwa.com.vn
BUSINESS CONSULTING
BDG VIETNAM
11th Floor, Capital Place, 6
Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 7858
Bdg-vietnam.com
CONCETTI
33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3911 1481
Concetti.vn
GRANT THORNTON
28th Floor, Saigon Trade
Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100
Gt.com.vn
INSPIRED IMAGE
Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu
Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
0916 352573
Inspiredimage.co.uk
PRISM INFORMATION
TECHNOLOGY SERVICES
4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 7305 0905
prism.com.vn
ROUSE
6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58
Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 6770
iprights.com
STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3911 0965
starcorpvn.com
STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:
0904 410884
TRACTUS ASIA LTD

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6291 2205
tractus-asia.com
XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
BUSINESS GROUPS
AMCHAM
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
amchamvietnam.com
An independent association
of American and international businesses, the objective
of the American Chamber of
Commerce in Vietnam is to
promote trade and investment between the United
States and Vietnam.
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

2nd Floor, Eximland Building,
179EF Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
auschamvn.org
A licensed foreign busi-
ness group established to

represent and promote the
interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam,
AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions,
governmental relations
meetings and charity events.
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF

VIETNAM
3829 8430
bbgv.org
CANCHAM
Room 305, New World Hotel,
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the
Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business
associates together and to
facilitate discussion forums
about business in Vietnam.
NORDCHAM
17th Floor, Petroland Tower,
12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08)
5416 0922
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP

VIETNAM
40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
pbgvn.com
SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy
Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6996
swissvietnam.com
HCMC
CINEMAS
Showcasing the latest
Hollywood blockbusters
and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as
Megastar Media, Lotte
and Galaxy Cinema offer
the most up-to-date and
modern cinema-going
experiences in Saigon.
For those partial to more
esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and
Idecaf carry little known
Vietnamese and European
efforts.
CINEBOX
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10
Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
LOTTE CINEMA
13th Floor, Diamond Plaza,
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 38227897
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469
Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7
Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com
GALAXY CINEMA
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Tel: (08) 3920 6688
116 Nguyen Du, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 5235
246 Nguyen Hong Dao,
Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1
Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn
MEGASTAR CINEMA
Level 5, Crescent Mall,
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My
Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5412 2222
Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A
Truong Son, Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 6297 1981
Level 5, Parkson Paragon,
3 Nguyen Luong Bang,
Phu My Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5416 0088
megastar.vn
EVENT MANAGEMENT
CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS
Tel: 0906 761190
centerpiece-vn.com
info@centerpiece-vn.com
Centerpiece is an independent event planning company
run by expatriates that can
plan any event from private
parties, to corporate events
to weddings.
EVECOO
Tel: 0988 297990
evecoo.vn
GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6048
galaroyale.com.vn
ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD

268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan
Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880
THE CATERERS
46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel:
(08) 3812 6901
thecaterersvietnam.com.vn
Offers everything from canaps and cocktails, buffets
and set menus to barbeques
and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event
management and exclusive
venues to make any kind of
event a success.
EXPAT SERVICES
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 7237
HAPPY HOUSE
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701,

Q1, Tel: 01659 419916
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu

Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
HOUSING & REAL ESTATE

CBRE
12th Floor, Me Linh Point
Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 6125
cbre.com
AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD

14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364
ambrij.com
ENDO
406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh,
Tel: (08) 6292 2045
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.
26th Foor, Saigon Trade

Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968
joneslanglasalle.com.vn
Jones Lang LaSalle
(NYSE:JLL) is a professional
services and investment
management firm offering specialized real estate
services to clients seeking
increased value by owning,
occupying and investing in
real estate. As a truly global
firm, they work and collaborate closely with their
colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to
bring best-in-class services,
people, and systems to their
clients in Vietnam.
Their offices in Ho Chi Minh
City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant
advisory and other services.
SNAP
COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM

Bitexco Office Building, 7th
Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665
colliersmn.com/vietnam
SOTHEBYS INTERNATIONAL
REALTY
CREATION
International Plaza Building,
Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu
Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553
CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom
Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 7968
cushmanwakefield.vn
EASY SAIGON
Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is
a useful real estate website
helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.
Enquiries via their website
are welcome.
KNIGHT FRANK
Suite A, level 7, VTP Office
Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6777
knightfrank.com.vn
Founded in 1896, Knight
Frank has grown to become
the worlds largest privately
owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial,
residential and residential
development services.
Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial

Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 2000
sothebysrealty.com.vn
THE NEST
369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc
Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901
thenest-vietnam.com
Wellknown property
search and real estate
agency with a useful website
listing properties available
for rent and sale, orientated
towards expats. Website is in
English, French and Spanish.
INSURANCE
BAOVIET INSURANCE
49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661
baoviet.com.vn
IF CONSULTING
IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A
Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 7362
insuranceinvietnam.com
Independent advisors that
represent top reputable
medical insurers provide
you with the best suitable
medical cover for individual,
family or company needs.
NAMHOUSE CORPORATION
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental
properties, constructions
and interior decoration,
especially in District 2. Supports professional services
and aftersales.
SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor,
81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 9205
savills.com.vn
Savills Vietnam is a leading
property service provider
in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory
services, residential sales,
commercial leasing, asset
management, retail advisory, valuation, investment
IGLOBALASSIST
Tel: 0934 874271
Iglobalassist.com
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Caf in District 2, Snap offers a web
based real estate search
service with information on
rental properties all around
the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse
to wading into the internet
depths for their needs.
CHUMS HOUSE
JONES LANG LASALLE

CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES
Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory,

Research and Consulting,
Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency,
Industrial Agency, Project
and Development Services,
Property Asset Management
Services, Hotel Investment
and Consultancy Services,
Integrated Facilities Management.
BLUE CROSS VIETNAM

8th Floor, River View Tower,
7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08)
3821 9908
inquiry@bluecross.com.vn
www.bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part
of the Pacific Cross group
of companies with over 60
years experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.
Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable
service means they are the
strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are
getting the most out of your
insurance contact them for
a free quote.
LIBERTY INSURANCE
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3812 5125
libertyinsurance.com.vn
PRUDENTIAL
25th F, Saigon Trade Centre,
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 1660
prudential.com.vn
TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES

VIETNAM
Huu Nghi Building, 35 Le
Loi, Q1
ten-pac.com
An independent agency representing local and international insurance companies
in Southeast Asia. A trusted
partner for health, employee
benefits and life insurance,
the team at Tenzing has over
30 years experience providing insurance advice.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
(ABCIS)
Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833; Saigon South
Campus 2 (Foundation Stage
& Early Primary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833
theabcis.com
Rated as outstanding by
British government inspectors, academic results puts
ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide.
Provides education for two
to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved
by the British Government,
BIS provides a British style
curriculum for an international student body from
pre-school to Year 13. The
school is staffed by British
qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by
the Council of International
Schools and a member of
FOBISIA, BIS is the largest
international school in Vietnam.
CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
13C Phong Phu Commune,
Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412
3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam
serves local and foreign
students from Kindergarten
to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the
internationally recognised
Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting
academic excellence.
CITYSMART
Horizon Tower, 214 Tran
Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3526 8833
7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational
programmes, as well as life
skills and character building
for comprehensive development.
AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (AIS)
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744
6960; Thu Thiem Campus,
264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West
Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International
School is an IB World School
with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering
an international education
from kindergarten to senior
school with the IB Primary
Years Programme (PYP),
Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE)
and IB Diploma Programme
(DP).
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (BIS)
Tel: (08) 3744 2335
EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS)
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao
Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam.
Tel: (08) 7300 7257
info@eishcmc.com
www.eishcmc.com
Located in the heart of Thao
Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School
Ho Chi Minh City offers a
supportive and challenging
academic education from
Early Years to Grade 12
based on the IB curriculum.
EIS is a Nobel Talent School
and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school
educates global citizens to
enjoy learning, inquiring and
caring for others.
GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF

VIETNAM
Somerset Chancellor Court,
1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi
HCMC
BUSINESS BUFF
THE FUTURE IS NOW
BY SHANE DILLON
ow its 2015, and how

Vietnam and the world have
changed over the last year. Its
apparently only the beginning of
bigger and greater, stranger and more diverse
changes to come. So this month I have taken
out my crystal ball to look at some of the
mind blowing ways society, as we know it,
will change in the coming years and probably
sooner than you may think.
on approval for this technology.
Real chocolate may disappear. The
Bye bye beauty. Some of the worlds

most beautiful natural flora and fauna is disappearing at an alarming rate. Reports predict
over 75 percent of the species that existed 100
years ago will become extinct in the lifetime
of this generation.
Everyone will have a cell phone. In
AI doctors. Nearly 80 percent of medical
No more cash. It was the Swedes who

invented the bank note but now the
majority of their banks no longer handle cash,
nor do their public buses accept cash, and a
number of businesses only transact through
bank cards. Some churches also offer this
form of transaction when they take collections
on Sunday.
only 20 years cell phones have gone from

elitist toy to common device for all people
with approximately 6.8 billion active cell
phone accounts globally. Taking into account
that some countries have more accounts than
people, even in some of poorest regions in the
world current subscription rates are around
90 per 100 people a higher ratio than access
to working toilets.
Poverty is going away. In 1950 it was

about 1 in 2 below the poverty line, in 2005
it was 1 in 5 and it is heading to 1 in 40 by
2050.
Driverless cars. They should be main-
stream by 2035 in the developed world,

saving 30,000 lives, five billion commuting
hours and US$500 billion in costs related to
accidents in the US alone.
cacao plant takes years to yield a crop, making it extremely difficult for small farms
which collectively produce the majority of the
worlds supply to profit. With increased
environmental impact on crops over the coming years, the chocolate bar could become as
expensive as caviar.
reports contain errors due to human doctors

the technology is getting close to replace
them altogether in diagnostics of medical
problems and medical administration.
Instant translation. I personally cannot
wait for this one with Google saying they

are within a few years of launching an application that offers instant voice translation
services.
3D printing. This could have huge impacts
in so many areas altering manufacturing,

causing China and the developing world to
no longer be the worlds workshops, making
retailers redundant as orders can be fulfilled
directly to the customer, and changing
medicine through cheaper prosthetics and
bio-printed organs, tissue and bones.
already successfully helped a paralysed man

to walk again by transplanting cells from his
nose.
Population explosion. Between now and

2050, there will be major growth, with half
occurring in Africa Nigeria is expected to
take the third-most populated country spot
from the US in the next three decades.
Genetic surgery. The technology called
Supersonic travel. In theory the technol-
Spinal cord injuries. Researchers have
CRISPR may soon replace pills to cure

disease, which works by seeking out gene
sequences and replacing them with healthy
DNA. Two companies are currently working
ogy should be able to create a plane that

travels close to 19,000 miles per hour, turning
travel time between Tokyo and New York into
under an hour.
Organs for anyone. Scientists can already

grow a large number of body parts that have
been transplanted into patients. In the near
future this should extend to complex organs
such as lungs and hearts.
No more trash. A recent expedition to the

Amazon by a group of Yale researchers has
led to the discovery of a fungus that can break
down plastic. If this is the game-changer they
think it could be, landfills will become a thing
of the past.
Cyborg power. The US director of National
Intelligence predicts that by 2030 humanmachine interfaces will provide superhuman
strength, speed and abilities such as night
vision and enhanced memory recall. This will
also open up the very real possibility of hacking a human.
Living to be much older. It is thought
the first humans to live over 150 years have

already been born.
Shane hopes to live to be a 150-year-old super
cyborg he can be contacted at shanedillon@
bluecross.com.vn
HCMC
Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
7008
gymboreeclasses.com.vn
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI

MINH CITY (ISHCMC)
(08) 3898 9100
ishcmc.com
The only fully authorized IB
World School in Ho Chi Minh
City, ISHCMC has been
awarding graduates with an
IB Diploma and sending them
off to high-profile overseas
universities since 1999.
RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL SAIGON
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7,
Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext
120/121/122
renaissance.edu.vn
Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum
based upon the British curriculum complemented by
the International Primary
Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a
family school with first-class
facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool,
mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and
drama rooms, science labs
and an all-weather pitch.
SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL

CHILDCARE CENTRE
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON

PEARL (ISSP)
Thanh Tel: (8) 2222 7788
admissions@issp.edu.vn
The International School
Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an
elementary school, catering
for ages 18 months to 11
years. With over 90 percent
of teachers having achieved
Master's degrees, ISSP focus on a rigorous American
curriculum.
KIDS CLUB SAIGON

79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7;
27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5412 5944
kidsclubsaigon.com
Early childhood centres in
Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes
for children ages two to five.
Known for unique facilities,
experienced staff, highquality learning resources,
and small class sizes.
KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE

Crescent Residence 2, 107
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907
099 480
kindermusik-vietnam.com
LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL

KINDERGARTEN
102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052
lgkids.vn
MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage childrens engagement with their
surroundings, MIS offers
children from age three to 12
a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of
extracurricular activities.
15 Street 12, perpendicular

to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
3740 8081
saigonkidskindergarten.
com
SKECC has evolved over 10
years to create a creative,
playful learning environment for children ages two
to six. Limited class sizes and
highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for
all students.
SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (SSIS)
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from
elementary to high-school,
emphasizing a multicultural
student environment and a
commitment to wellrounded
education at all levels.
SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL
Residential Area No. 5,
Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge
International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates
Montessori methods into
nursery and kindergarten
programmes to create a
stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes
allow experienced teachers
to cater to individual needs.
SMARTKIDS
1172 Thao Dien Compound,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare
centre provides children
ages 18 months to six years
with a high quality education
in a playful and friendly environment.
consultancy and placement

services.
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL

OF VIETNAM
LATELIER
172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,

Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
theamericanschool.edu.vn
33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492
latelier-anphu.com
VAS
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN
98 Cach Mang Thang Tam,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278
vas.edu.vn
INTERIOR DESIGN
PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND
REMODELING
Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren
Hawk)
Thinking about upgrading a
bathroom? Perhaps a new
colour in the living room?
Maybe even a new wood
floor? Professional Painting
and Remodeling can help
with these and many other
projects. Provide international standards of quality
as well as professional and
timely service at reasonable
rates. Call today to schedule
a free evaluation.
INVESTMENT & FINANCE

DRAGON CAPITAL
1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo

Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
9355
dragoncapital.com
THE ETHICAL
INVESTMENT GROUP
27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0907
ethicalinvestmentgroup.
co.uk
TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT
135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van,

Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670
771
vietnameselanguagegarden.com
Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam

Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 9640
indochinecounsel.com
MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3822 8860
mayerbrownjsm.com
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
VLS SAIGON
EMBERS ASIA
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging
from basic conversational
Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and
advanced levels, as well as
special courses including
Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival
crash course.
80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu

Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728
embers-asia.com
VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE

TRAINING & TRANSLATION
37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6678 0914
vnccentre.com
VUS
189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800
vus-etsc.edu.vn
LEGAL SERVICES
ALLENS
Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29
Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
1717
vietnamlaws.com
BAKER & MCKENZIE
66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623
t-wm.com
12th Floor, Saigon Tower,

3829 5585
bakermckenzie.com
VINACAPITAL
FRASERS LAW COMPANY
17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower,

3821 9930
vinacapital.com
A leading investment fund
management company with
extensive experience in the
emerging Vietnam market.
Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which
is a US$839 million investment fund.
INDOCHINE COUNSEL
Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The

Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733
frasersvn.com
GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8599
gide.com
ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288
erci.edu.vn
G&H
6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919
ghmsglobal.com
A 100 percent foreigninvested company focusing on
management services and
consulting with inhouse
programmes to meet the
particular requirements of
its clients. Offers teambuilding and academicbased
business and management
programmes.
XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911
0454
xageconsulting.com
Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes,

knowledge management,
developing marketing plans
and business models and
assessing market opportunities.

com
MEKONG RESEARCH

Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314
mekongresearch.com
NIELSEN
CentrePoint Building, Level

4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088
vn.nielsen.com
TNS VIETNAM
3930 6631
Tnsvietnam.vn
With over 11 years in the
marketplace, TNS Vietnam
offers all three major market
research services customisation, access panels
and media monitoring to
a range of local and international clients.
PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES
DRAGON IMAGES
MARKET RESEARCH
CIMIGO
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727
cimigo.vn
An independent marketing
and brand research specialist operating in the Asia
Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat

Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660
dragonimages.asia
Dragon Images production
studio is a professional team
of photographers, stylists.
shooting administrators,
casting managers and retouchers. They make photos
on various topics, from business to sport.
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
ILA VIETNAM
146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3521 8788
ilavietnam.com
A foreign-owned education
and training company that
offers a range of educational
programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes,
corporate training, teacher
training and overseas study
HCMC
JOB SEARCH
LABOUR SUBLEASING IN VIETNAM
relatively new sector in Vietnam

introduced in the revised
Labour Code in 2013, subleasing
facilitates the assignment of
an employee to a company in need of
short-term help. Although this form of
work is welcomed, there remain a number of
shortcomings to be addressed, most notably
in limiting private employment agencies
from offering the full range of workforce
solutions.
Additionally, the types of subleased
occupations covered by the regulations
do not reflect the exact nature of the work
currently performed by private employment
agency workers and required by user
enterprises. The lack of flexibility in this
area is likely to cause major operational and
compliance issues for market participants,
and does not address the requirements of
user enterprises in the market.
The Role of Private Employment

Agencies
As Vietnam is moving from an agricultural to
a manufacturing-based economy, the need for
a flexible workforce has become increasingly
prevalent. There continues to be a lack of
skilled workforce and high unemployment
in the 18 to 25 years age range. Private
employment agencies create a stepping stone
into permanent employment via the services
of temporary staffing not only employing

but also giving the job training which is
required in Vietnam.
Furthermore, private employment
agencies have been able to assist public
employment services that struggle with the
changing needs of enterprises and employees
alike. Various organisations recognise that
private employment agencies can contribute
to the functioning of the labour market as a
whole. By allowing these agents to offer a
full range of services, including temporary
work, contingency staffing, outsourcing
and managed business services, Vietnam
would be better equipped to fill the gaps
of a changing labour market. The lack of
human resources and a skilled workforce is
recognised as one of the biggest challenges to
Vietnams economy.
Private employment agencies employ 9.5
million people worldwide, with over 700,000
jobs created through the use of a temporary
workforce. It is estimated that regarding
the abovementioned types of services, if
the worldwide statistics were applied to
Vietnam, this would result in the creation of
jobs for 70 percent of the 18 to 24-year-olds
entering the workforce every year.
Research conducted by the Vietnam
Employment Agencies Federation (VEAF) in
2013 show that the top 10 agencies employ
over 13,500 people and generate revenue in
BY NICOLA CONNOLLY
excess of 42 million (VND1.12 trillion) per

annum. The VEAF believes the industry is
worth over 100 million (VND2.67 trillion)
revenue in 2014 and will continue to grow,
hence adapting the nature of this work is
very important.
Opening up Vietnam to allow for a
temporary staffing model under the guidance
of the Ministry of Labour, Invalids and Social
Affairs and working with the VEAF
would ensure full protection of employees
rights and statutory insurances, and would
allow self-governance in the industry. There
is an inverse relationship between the
temporary work penetration rate and the
level of informal employment in a country,
and these measures would allow the young
workforce to gain invaluable experience and
build up their skill set.
This would contribute to increasing the
number of skilled workers in Vietnam, and
potentially provide a resource pool for future
investment projects providing for longterm employment. As a result, international
corporations would be more inclined to
establish operations in the country, leading
to further benefits for Vietnam such as
knowledge transfer and sharing of best
practices.
Nicola Connolly is the general director of
Adecco Vietnam and chairwoman of the European
Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam
HCMC
PUBLIC RELATIONS
MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS
Level 5, 273-273B Ben
Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 5517
matterhorncommunications.com
Providing public relations
and communications support to international and
local firms operating in
Vietnam. Specialising in
corporate communications,
media relations, corporate
social responsibility and media and issues management
and training.
experience studying abroad

or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective
and competitive service
suitable for many types of
business.
VIETNAMWORKS.COM
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
RELOCATION AGENTS
ternational and local movement of household goods,

JVK is a leader in the field.
7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang,

Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462
veropr.com
Helps clients expand their
footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective
public relations campaigns.
Services offered include
branding, media relations,
event management, public
affairs and issues / crisis
management.
AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM)

5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices
globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.
ALLIED PICKFORDS
RECRUITMENT & HR
ADECCO VIETNAM
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26
- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3430
adecco.com.vn
Adecco is the world leader in
human resources solutions.
Established in Vietnam in
2011, Adecco offers a wide
array of global workforce
solutions and specialises in
finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.
HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

1st Floor, Thien Son Building,
5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com
G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM

CO., LTD.
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur,
District 1, HCMC.
Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th
Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba
Dinh District, Hanoi.
www.vieclambank.com
info@vieclambank.com
VieclamBank is a brand of
G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a
Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established
in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting
executive and senior level,
providing Vietnamese and
Japanese candidates with
12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices
in over 45 countries, Allied
Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also
provides tailored relocation
services.

3822 1111
cityview.com.vn
LOGICAL MOVES VIETNAM

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international,
local, domestic and office moves for household
goods and personal effects
through our global partner
network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not
have documentation.
RESIDENT VIETNAM
VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS
CITYVIEW
Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu

Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
SAIGON EXPRESS
AGENCY LIMITED
7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo,
Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850
seal.com.vn
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

8FL, Thien Son Building, 5
Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers
local and international
moving, pet transportation, relocation services
including home search, orientation, cultural training,
immigration services and
records management. Email
Vietnam@santaferelo.com
for info.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON RESIDENCES
Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon youll
find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The
residences offer panoramic
views of the downtown area.
NORFOLK MANSION
1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished
accommodation with attentive and discreet service.
Facilities include an outdoor
swimming pool, a gym, sauna
and steam room, as well as
two on-site restaurants.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
(08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank
hectares, Riverside Apart-
ments combines a resort

lifestyle with the amenities
of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from
downtown by high-speed
boat shuttle.
SEDONA SUITES
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9666
sedonahotels.com.sg
SHERWOOD RESIDENCE
127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3823 2288
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a
luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime
location, comfort and class,
with fivestar facilities and
service.
with separate living and

dining areas, as well as a
fully equipped kitchen where
guests can prepare a meal
for themselves, their family
and friends.
THE LANDMARK
5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2098
thelandmarkvietnam.com
65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a
comprehensive health club
for tenants and members,
a squash court and a 16th
floor swimming pool.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES
SCORE-TECH
8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C
Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
Somerset Chancellor Court,
Somerset Ho Chi Minh City
and Somerset Vista Ho Chi
Minh City serviced residences combine the space
and privacy of an apartment with the services of a
top-rated hotel. They come
260 TTH21, Tan Thai Hiep,

Q12, Tel: (08) 3711 9958
A 100 percent foreigninvested company offering
personalised sport garments. Using the latest printing technology as well as a
design team from Barcelona,
Score-Tech controls the
whole production process
from producing fabrics and
sewing to printing. Big and
small orders of garments
produced for all sporting
needs.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

656 Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587
camlyapartment@hcm.
vnn.vn
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY

Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower,
9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12,
District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3
826 7799
www.asiantigers-mobility.
com
Asian Tigers is one of the
largest regional move management specialists, with
services including door-todoor moving, housing and
school searches, local and
office moves and pet relocations.
CROWN RELOCATIONS
2nd Floor Coteccons Office
Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien
Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3840 4237
crownrelo.com
JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the in-
DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES

No 01 Street No.104-BTT,
Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,
Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08)
3742 5678
enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury
Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from
two to four-bedroom units
with spectacular panoramic
views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite
bathrooms, separate work
and living areas, a balcony,
modern amenities, elegant
furnishings and carefully
chosen trimmings.
HCMC
BODY
AND
TEMPLE
THE TOP FIVE DONTS FOR THE NEW YEAR
BY PHIL KELLY
ts the time of year when many health

and fitness magazines have their top
lists of how to achieve various body
composition goals with countdowns
such as 14 days to a six-pack, lose 3
inches in 7 days, get amazing arms,
legs and abs in 8 moves and so on. All
these statements are just unsubstantiated
fluff to get you to purchase their latest
edition. I feel youre better off knowing
whats best not to do, as the below five
points are more likely to bring better long
term results than an unrealistic cover
story.
1) Dont Practise Insanity

Albert Einstein said that the definition
of insanity is doing the same thing
over and over again and expecting a
different result. In past New Years, have
you resolved to lose weight and failed?
Committed to get fitter and healthier
by joining a gym and then not using
the membership? Or undertaken the
eat less, do more methodology, which
makes you feel terrible and give up on
your goals?
Heres a stat for you: self-directed fat
loss programmes fail a staggering 98
percent of the time. Make 2015 the year
you try a new approach.
brisk half-hour walk to work every day

(150kcals each way) = 1,500 calories per
week.
Simply move. Get out of the chair
and walk everyone should be taking a
minimum of 10,000 steps per day.
2) Dont Sit
3) At The Gym
Inactivity is not just making us fat it

is killing us. There is a lot of research
supporting the fact that a lack of
physical activity is impacting our society
negatively. The British Heart Foundation
estimate that around 37 percent of deaths
from cardiovascular heart disease (CHD)
are related to a lack of physical activity,
compared to 19 percent from smoking.
The Joint Health Survey of 1999 found
that 75 percent of women and 63 percent
of men are less physically active than the
recommended levels for health gain. This
research is even more significant when
considering that in the last 20 years,
obesity has tripled, yet levels of calorie
consumption have reduced slightly over
the last 50 years (Obesity in Britain BMJ,
1995). In other words, we are actually
eating less but getting fatter.
The simple fix is to move more. Im
not talking about running or planned
exercise. Many people visit a gym twice
per week for their workout, but then
go on to have a more sedentary week
than non-gym users. If we consider that
the average workout 600kcals x 2 =
1,200 calories per week. Compared to a
a) Limit isolation exercises

Every session should aim to conduct full
body, functional exercises to develop
complete muscle unity, fitness and
optimal gene expression (broad athletic
competence with optimal strength-toweight ratio). What that means is perform
squats, dips, chins and deadlifts not leg
adductor, triceps kickbacks and shoulder
shrugs to elicit the best hormone
profile and metabolic expenditure.
b) Stay away from machines

No machines equals improved
stability, coordination, balance,
proprioperception and increased energy
expenditure. Exercises ideally need to
be multidirectional movements only
performing isolated exercise to rebalance
muscle strength: length relationships
or develop specific areas for aesthetical
reasons.
Remember this motto: Seven days
training on machines makes one weak!
4) Dont Be Dehydrated
We live in a hot climate. Water is often
the most neglected nutrient. Dehydration
leads to higher cortisol output. Cortisol

is the stress hormone related to body fat
storage in the abdominal area.
As a rule of thumb, you should
drink approximately 800ml to 1 litre of
water per 23kg of bodyweight. The best
indication that you are staying wellhydrated is that your morning urine
should be clear and odourless.
5) Dont Stay Up Late

Your body requires deep, restful,
restorative sleep to heal, detoxify,
maintain cognitive benefits, and keep
all systems running smoothly. Research
shows that most people do not get
enough sleep, but also the quality of sleep
is often interrupted and not restorative.
Sleep deprivation seriously obstructs
fat loss and muscle building. Lack of
sleep lowers androgen levels and growth
hormone levels, thus depriving you of
some serious fat burning and muscle
growing chemicals and mechanisms.
There is a huge link between being
overweight/obese and lack of sleep.
While there are many mistakes that can
be made in trying to lose fat, gain health
and improve fitness, correcting these five
errors will help you achieve results faster
than ever.
Phil is founder & master trainer at Body
Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934
782763, at his website bodyexpertsystems.com
or through Star Fitness starfitnesssaigon.
com
HCMC
downtown
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING &

ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR &
WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
BEER REPUBLIC
MODERN BEER HALL

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel:
0945 858034
facebook.com/BeerRepublic
BLANCHYS TASH
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
0909 028293
Blanchystash.com
BOOTLEG DJ CAF
MINIMALIST CAF BAR

9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907
609202.
bootlegsaigon.com
Reminiscent of a New York
or London underground
watering hole, this is a great
place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts,
lunch by day and a variety of
DJ sets by night.
BOUDOIR LOUNGE
HOTEL LOUNGE BAR

Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
BROMA
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP
3823 6838
Bromas medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the
citys weirdest and coolest
events/random moments.
A sophisticated cocktail
menu and quite possibly the
best lamb burger in town.
Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.
CARMEN
LIVE MUSIC / BAR

8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 7699
CUNHOUSE
LOUNGE BAR
Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
Tel: 0908 033982
TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP

3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
0919 206461
fuse.vn
GAME ON
SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel:
(08) 6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com
HARD ROCK CAFE
LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595
hardrockcafe.vn
ICE BLUE
EXPAT BAR
3822 2644
Expats keep returning to
this smoky dive bar, largely
due to its amicable service,
brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart
games. A mainstay in the
local darts league.
LA HABANA
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and
restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and
Cuban cuisine, as well as a
few German favourites such
as curry wurst and Wiener
schnitzel. Nightly live music
and regular salsa classes.
LA FENETRE SOLEIL
FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 5994
A seductive watering whole
in a great corner location
thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese
fusion cuisine, imported
beer, classic cocktails, and
entertaining music events /
DJ sets.
LAST CALL
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 3122
FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR

9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 0396
lerendezvousdesaigon.com
With such a meaningful
name - the meeting point
- this wine bistro boasts a
relaxed, friendly ambience,
perfect for unwinding with
an after work drink or to
enjoy time with friends.
Reasonably priced, has a
sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive
old and new world wine list.
LEVEL 23 WINE BAR
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

Level 23, Sheraton Saigon
Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT
LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB

Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
OBRIENS
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports
bar with classic pub dcor
is widely appreciated for its
excellent international fare,
large whiskey selection and
upstairs pool table. Great
pizzas. And for a real treat,
check out their zesty rolls.
PACHARAN
SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6024
pacharansaigon.com
Legs of Iberian ham hang
from the ceiling in the
downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything
Spanish. Regular first-floor
live music and excellent eats
makes it a mainstay for the
wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.
PARK LOUNGE
LOUNGE BAR & CAFE

Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam
Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
Huu
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Ng
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Le
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Th
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Le
Lo
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Ham Nghi
District 2
t
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Va
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An elegant, ground floor
venue in The Hyatt, perfect
for social and business
gatherings. As well as nightly
live music, serves afternoon
tea staples including warm
scones with generous portions of homemade jam and
clotted cream.
PHATTYS
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed
Caf Latin, Phattys has
become the go-to, Aussie
beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international
cricket to Aussie rules and
serving an array of pub grub
favourites.
SAIGON RANGER
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 7300 0559
facebook.com/saigonranger
Aspiring to be a focal point
for artistic activities, the
space at Saigon Ranger has
been established to create
encounter and dialogue between different forms of art.
Boasts concrete floors, dark
wooden furniture, quirky
wall designs and a stage for
live music and other types of
performance.
SAIGON SAIGON
cT
ha
n
Da
o
District
10
Ma
Du
h
an
Ng
uy
en
Ca
ch
Tr
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Th
i
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n
an
Ba
Du
Bi
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Ha
i
Hu
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LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON
District 3
Kh
ai
Ph
APOCALYPSE NOW
FUSE
lastcallsaigon.com
If youre in need of dense,
soulful atmosphere and
maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from
wherever, Last Call is your
stop and fast becoming
that of the similarly inclined.
Great happy hour deals for
early evening starters.
Tr
an
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 1234
International dcor blends
seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces
with a wide-ranging drink
menu and hip dance tunes to
create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.
EXPAT / SPORTS BAR

58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3915 2853
Subtle lighting, a pleasant
ambience, a pool table and
darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel
of a drinking man's pub. A
place to have fun, drink beer
or spirits and get in with the
party mood. Known for its 15
shooter challenge.
To
n
Ho
2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)
DRUNKEN DUCK
an
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in
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en
Ti
BARS & CLUBS
Binh Thanh
in
h
HOTEL MUSIC BAR

9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 1923 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
District 4
STORM P
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4738
Stormp.vn
THE CUBE BAR
HIP RESTOBAR
31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel:
0903 369798
facebook.com/thecubesaigon
A sleek, industrial looking
restobar with edgy dcor
and just a hint of Spanish
style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and
an emphasis on all things
Latin.
THE OBSERVATORY
BAR, ART & DJ SPACE
5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat)
Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory
is now at a bigger space in
District 4. Complete with a
new balcony overlooking
the Saigon River and an even
larger sound system, The
Observatory is a key node
in the Asian underground
music circuit.
THE ORIENT
SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1
facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
An attractive, spacious,
brick-wall interior, a long
bar, high table seating, big
screens, a pool table and
live music. A great venue for
a few beers and more.
VASCOS
MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR

The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824

2888
Vascosgroup.com
A veteran fixture of Saigons
nightlife scene, Vascos offers a softly lit downstairs
patio, and an upstairs Blue
Room chill out lounge area
with regular live music.
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this
a great drinking and dining
venue
VINO
WINE BAR / TAPAS

The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299
1315
1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6281 9059
vinovietnam.com
This downtown wine shops
terrace is a popular after
work drinking spot, where
one can select from 10
wines by the glass, a range
of imported beer, and an
excellent tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the
great selection of wines in
the shop and pay a small
corkage.
VINYL BAR
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907
890623
HCMC
COFFEE CUP
THE WORKSHOP
outing itself as Vietnams

first speciality coffee bar,
The Workshop takes Saigons
favourite tipple to new heights,
blending science, art and passion in
pursuit of the ultimate brew.
Entering this airy loft-space, with its
industrial light fittings, exposed girders
and contemporary artworks, one could
easily imagine the skyline of Manhattan
appearing through the panorama of
windows. Chunky wooden tables,
vintage stools, polished metal and stone,
its an Instagrammers dream, and Im
not surprised to learn that designers
and furniture experts rank among The
Workshops team of owners a team
which also includes two coffee farmers.
This is where this coffee joint stands above
the rest.
From the Berry to the Cup

Single-origin Arabica varieties sourced
directly from the teams farms in Dalat
are roasted and ground in-house. Dont
expect flavourings or syrups here. At The
Workshop, the taste of the bean is the
focus.
Ill admit, Im more of a tea person. Im
out of my depth and Ive already worked
out that my usual kerbside call of ca phe

sua da just wont fly here. Beyond the
standard lineup of machine options, Im
looking down at words like pour-over,
immersion, Aeropress and Kone. Its a
whole new world, but I want in.
Educate me, is all I say to Huong
our own personal barista as were
shown to the Brew Bar for our induction.
This 360-degree centrepiece is a veritable
altar to all things java.
At The Workshop, says Huong, we
want to help people appreciate the best
of Vietnamese coffee. Many tourists leave
Vietnam thinking that the coffee here is
bad quality, too dark, too strong but its
not true.
Huong describes the brewing methods
on offer five pour-overs (for a lighter
taste) and three immersions and
explains the subtle flavour differences each
one can reveal. She clearly knows what
shes talking about and were happy to let
her make the decisions.
For the next five minutes Im back in
high-school science class. Conical flasks,
digital thermometers, clamps, stands,
weights and tubes are assembled before us.
A gas burner is brought in and Huong and
colleague Van Anh get to work.
Absolute Perfection
Their attention to detail is staggering.
Van Anh works the syphon like a
master chemist approaching alchemy,
meticulously adjusting the gas to keep
the process running at the optimal rate.
Ask for it iced and theyll actually take a
scientific scale and weigh the cubes for a
perfect ratio.
As my first taste of real coffee, Im
instantly converted. Besides the syphoned
Red Bourbon, we also have a Chemex
pour of Typica Dalat. Both are remarkably
distinct one packing fruity notes, the
other slightly floral. Everything I normally
dislike about coffee is absent; the overly
bitter taste, the rasping at the back of the
mouth and the mid-afternoon jitters.
Our coffees are very high quality, says
Huong, so they have less caffeine. I have
to sample every cup I make so I know this
is true!
And with that endorsement, we
order another. Eyeing up the list of food
offerings, we contemplate staying all day.
In the company of Huong and her team,
its very tempting. Simon Stanley
The Workshop is at 27 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Ho
Chi Minh City. For more info visit facebook.
com/the.workshop.coffee
HCMC
vinylbarsaigon.com
A small but popular bar
with all the shenanigans of
the nightlife scene set to a
backdrop of classic 60s, 70s
and 80s tunes. Has a darts
area out back and is a popular space for watching the
live English Premier League.
WINE BAR 38

3829 3968
With a huge selection of
self-imported wines from
Bordeaux, this classy but
contemporary venue is a
wine bar downstairs, and a
lounge on the first floor. Has
a French-Asian menu paired
to all the wines, with a huge
selection of the good stuff
sold by the glass.
WINE EMBASSY

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 7827
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving
30 wines by the glass, all
at reasonable prices. Has
an excellent food menu to
complement the old and new
world wines.
XU
CAF / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 8468
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its
cocktails and wine list. It
serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly
decorated interior. Regular
DJ nights.
ZANZBAR
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 7375
Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting,
international tapas and a
laid-back, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the offering at the all-new ZanZBar
on the river end of Dong Khoi.
Popular with a businessy, international crowd.
CAFES & ICE-CREAM

AU PARC
EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2772
Auparcsaigon.com
Set in a shophouse-style
building, Au Parc offers a
chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean
food complemented with
good coffee and excellent
desserts.
BACH DANG
ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE

26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2707
BASKIN ROBBINS
ICE CREAM PARLOUR

1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
7308 3131
baskinrobbins.vn
CASBAH
MIDDLE EASTERN
59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 5130
This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both
cozy indoor and rooftop
seating to admire views of
the city. With such a prime
downtown location, expect
prices to match.
CENTRO
ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE

11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3827 5946
Conveniently located near
the Caravelle Hotel, this
casual cafe serves one of
the best lattes in town with
a mid-range Italian menu
including panini and other
typical fare.
COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL
Metropolitan Building, 235
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508
7285
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
CREPERIE AND CAF
FRENCH
3829 9117
Known for its fantastic
street-side seating opposite
the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out
caf will impress you with its
location as much as its food.
FANNY

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 1633
fanny.com.vn
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL
80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3704
saigongivral.com
GOODY

(08) 3829 9339
GUANABANA SMOOTHIES
CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909
824830
guanabanasmoothies.com
An American-style juice
bar and caf dedicated

to healthy, nutricious
smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and
condensed milk. A pleasant,
contemporary environment
adds to the theme.
HAGEN-DAZS

6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066
LUSINE
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B
Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
0703
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor
compliments the spacious,
whitewashed contemporary
interior of LUsine. A simple,
creative menu combines
with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and
art gallery out back. Second
location on Le Loi.
MAGONN THE CAFE

(08) 3822 9672
magonn.vn
Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything
from drinks to bites. Coming
with a crowd? The attic is a
quaint little spot to fit a cozy
gathering.
M2C CAFE
44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2495
facebook.com/m2ccafe
At M2C (Modern Meets
Culture), everything gets a
touch of modernity. From
the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows
immense local culture, done
with a modern flare. Be seen
here at one of the latest popular joint in town.
PLANTRIP CHA
TEA ROOM
8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung
Street, Q1
Tel: 0945 830905
Tea, tea and more tea, all in
a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha
customers go on a sensory
journey to experience the
tastes and smells of teas
from across Asia, Europe,
America and the Middle East.
THE MORNING CAFE

2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
Have a book to read? Pick a
bright spot by the window
and get snuggly with the
comfy upholstery in this
second-floor cafe. With a
cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some

background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.
THE PRINT ROOM
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
3823 4990
Second-storey coffeehouse
offers a quiet atmosphere
to chill out or read from
their book-nook collection.
Comfortable couch seating,
open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
TRUNG NGUYEN
INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE
80 Dong Khoi, Q1
trungnguyen.com.vn
ZEST BISTRO & CAF
INTERNATIONAL
5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)
3911 5599
This two-storey building with
a mezzanine level boasts an
industrial style complex with
block walls, steel structures
and huge glass windows.
The mid-range menu offers
over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

ANUPA ECO LUXE
LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2394
anupa.net
Monday to Sunday, 9am to
8pm
This centrally located unique
boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique
which exclusively retails
the complete Anupa leather
and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other
unique eco brands such as
bamboo eyewear, pendant
scarves and cushion covers.
DEBENHAMS
ADULT & CHILDRENS WEAR

Vincom Center, 70-72 Le
Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
7592
GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN
DESIGN & JEWELLERY

6291 8162
galleryvivekkevin.com
9.30am to 8pm
This retail-cum-gallery
space specialises in contemporary and exclusive
handcrafted jewellery made
from handpicked gemstones
and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run
every month.
GEISHA & GEISHAS COFFEE AND

TEA HOUSE
CASUAL & EVENING WEAR

3829 4004
Contemporary ranges of
casual and evening wear

fused with Asian designs.
The apparel includes floral
dresses, jean skirts, printed
tees and street-style bags.
Enjoy a cup of coffee at their
caf after.
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
8755
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The
three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking
Vietnamese chef, includes a
trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.
VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu
Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 4201
bellavitafurniture.com
IPA-NIMA
BOCONCEPT
LUSINE
DIABOLO
BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
9am to 9pm
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and
sophisticated clothing and
casual high-quality cottons
are stocked at this boutique/
caf. Lifestyle accessories
include shoes, homewares,
knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.
MANDARINA
TAILOR-MADE SHOES
(08) 3827 5267
SONG
ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65
Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3914 4088
asiasongdesign.com
T&V TAILOR
TAILORS
3824 4556
triciaandverona.com
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A
Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
COOKING CLASSES
SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY
HOA TUC
3825 8485
DANISH FURNITURE
68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 6604; The Crescent
Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5413 7357
boconcept.vn
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

3825 1803
9am to 8pm
EM EM
SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm
LUXURY FURNITURE IN VIETNAM

Tel: 0909 042765
luxury-furniture-vietnam.
com
A complete and exclusive
range of furniture produced
by high-end furniture producers in Vietnam and also
in Europe (Austria, Denmark,
Germany, Italy, France).
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org
NGUYEN FRERES
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
3823 9459
8am to 8pm
NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY
EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS
3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1.
(08) 3824 7456
ninhkhuong.vn
SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

69 Dong Khoi, Q1
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre,
HCMC
TOP EATS
TUKTUK THAI BISTRO
ituated on the high street food

hub of Le Thanh Ton, TukTuk
Thai Bistro offers diners an
on-trend bistro experience that
has quickly become popular in the
city. Not only have local foodies taken
to down-to-earth Bangkok chef Saran
Jittiboonruans modern take on Thai
cuisine, they have also been revelling
in an atmosphere befitting of their
taste for stripped-down but upmarket
scenes such is the blend that TukTuk
achieves.
With an Art Deco feel reminiscent of the
Lusines and Au Parcs of this world, spread
over three floors, the black, white and
grey matte finish, industrial steel furniture
and contrasting earthy touches all strike
a chord. Whether you're on the top-floor
garden terrace or in any of the other four
relaxed eating spaces, TukTuk feels like
its arrival on the scene has been perfectly
timed.
Looks aside, Sarans menu is replete
with crispy salads, classic curries,
authentic tom yums and moreish laabs.
However, that doesnt quite do justice
to where TukTuk has upped the ante
on appetisers and soups that youre
encouraged to share.
Taste Test
Arriving early for Friday lunch,
photographer Francis and I were treated to
a not-on-the menu Christmas special poh
taek hoi naang rom a lemongrass and thailime leaf soup with dried chilli, holy basil,
enoki mushroom and the freshest oysters
Ive had in a long time. Ask for it, because
the combination of textures, the fragrant
sweetness of the broth and a punchline of
juicy flavour from each oyster sent my taste
buds into a welcome overload.
Accompanying that was a tasting plate
of crispy whitebait, braised pork belly,
Chinese sausage and authentic Thai
vegetables around a kapi shrimp paste
fried rice the khoa kluk kapi (VND85,000).
Consider it a lighter-on-its-feet version
of a Spanish paella you dont want to
end making sharing it a considerable
compromise.
Next to this was a unique take on what
to do with blood cockles. Wrap them up
in coriander, lemongrass and shallots,
add mango, ginger, a bunch of smokedried chilli and call it the yam hoi kraeng
(VND110,000). This was contemporary
Thailand on a plate, easily delivering the
most spice kick of the day, and made us
both reach for our hibiscus flower and chia
seed juices.
To finish we were delivered a reassuring
vegetarian tom yam hed (VND65,000). A
more salty counterpoint to what we had
just eaten, it still achieved that warm fuzzy
feeling you get when you know youve just
eaten great food.
Sometimes, though, its the little things
that you remember most fondly, and in
TukTuks case its the juices, served up jamjar style and often with condiments of their
own, that almost steal the show --- almost.
Coming off a mild hangover (I do have
the reputation of the journalistic profession
to maintain), the lemongrass and pandan
juice (VND40,000) was quite simply cool
liquid gold. Utilising pandan leaf that
Saran assured me was sourced from his
home country, it works in perfect harmony
with the citrus lemongrass, rounding out a
mildly sweet, slightly nutty floral finish that
made me giddy between the nose, mouth
and brain.
As I sipped it while waiting for Francis
to show up, my mood went from slightly
embarrassed to be getting paid to eat at this
place, to completely excited to be eating
there again, and it delivered. Jon Aspin
TukTuk Thai Bistro is at 17/11 Le Thanh Ton,
Q1, HCMC facebook.com/tuktukthaibistro
HCMC
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
6115
www.nhaxinh.com
THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse.
com.vn
EAT
3T QUAN NUONG
VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631
AL FRESCOS
INTERNATIONAL
38238424
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of
one of Vietnams most successful restaurant chains,
Al Frescos offers international, Australian-influenced
comfort fare in a pleasant
environment with efficient,
friendly service to match.
Excellent delivery service.
ASHOKA
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 1372
33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel :
(08) 3744 4177
ashokaindianrestaurant.
com
Long-running, awardwinning Indian restaurant
famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and
Chinese-Indian fare.
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAF
3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European
caf fare think deli-style
sandwiches, salads and
mezzes, plus coffees and
juices served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and
green-tiled dcor.
BAHDJA
87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1,
Tel: 0122 763 1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail.
com
Located just beneath Au Lac
Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigons first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic,
multi-ethnic Berber North
African and Mediterranean
cuisine cooked and served
in a traditional Algerian style.
Best experienced in a group,
this small but pleasant restaurants soothing ambience
is matched by the owners
genuine hospitality and
complimented by an array of
tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Make sure to
try the excellent Moroccan
wine, too.
BARBECUE GARDEN
VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE
135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3340; 134-136
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1
barbecuegarden.com
BASILICO
Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza,
Cnr. Nguyen Du and Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099
BIBI@ALIBI
5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6257
The legendary chef Bibis
newest creation, a convivial
restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh
products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish
dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.
BLACK CAT
AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2055
blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers,
tasty Vietnamese-styled
sandwiches, spiced up
cocktails, mains and more,
all served up with a Californian edge at this small but
popular two-storey eatery
close to the river.
BLANCHY STREET
JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai
Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
8793
The work of former Nobu
chef Martin Brito, the
Japanese-South American
fusion cuisine at Blanchy
Street is among the tastiest
and most unusual in the city.
All complemented by fresh,
contemporary decor and a
leafy terrace out front.
BOMBAY INDIAN
INDIAN MALAY
57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel:
0903 863114
BROTZEIT
GERMAN / RESTOBAR
Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206
brotzeit.co/kumholink
BUN CHA HA NOI
BUN CHA
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1
CENTRAL PARC BANH MI

7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 8549
Part of the Au Parc group,
this miniscule, New Yorkthemed sandwich shop does
creative lunchtime fare at
excellent prices think
baguettes, wraps, focaccia
and bagels. Excellent delivery service.
Friendly staff and rustic

bare brick walls adorned
with Hollywood film legends
make for a relaxed and attractive setting.
CORSO
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant,
the enticing range of US and
Australian steaks plus great
grill and comfort food menu
in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite.
Decent-sized steaks start at
VND390,000.
DRAGON NOODLE
JAPANESE NOODLES
3521 0008
ELBOW ROOM
AMERICAN
3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style
diner ranges from meatball
baguettes to chilli burgers,
pizzas, blackened chicken
salads and a selection of
more expensive international mains.
EL GAUCHO
5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1879
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.
CIAO BELLA
NEW YORK-ITALIAN
3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range
of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas.
GANESH
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
The ubiquitous mint sauce
is thick and creamy and the

curries are both authentic
and smoky. Ganesh is rated
by many as the best Indian in
town. Very friendly service.
GOLDEN ELEPHANT
CLASSIC THAI
3822 8554
saigonssk@vnn.vn
GOURMETS DELIGHT
ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE

Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana
Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3521 8181
gourmetsdelight.com.vn
GRILLBAR
AIRCON STREETFOOD
(08) 3822 7901
facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe
Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to
it a range of grilled dishes,
typical of the barbecue fare
youd find on the street, and
then add in three types of
rice and a range of organic
products. Close to Ben
Thanh Market, this is com
binh dan
HOA TUC
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
1676
Highly rated restaurant
with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include
pink pomelo squid and crab
salad, mustard leaf prawn
rolls, fishcake wraps and
barbecue chicken in ginger,
onions and a lime leaf marinade.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
3823 1101
HOGS BREATH CAF
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub
such as burgers, salads
and prime rib steaks with a
sports bar atmosphere, this
Australian chain also offers
regular promotions and a
4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.
INAHO
SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 0326
JASPAS WINE & GRILL
INTERNATIONAL FUSION
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant,
the international offerings
here are consistently good
and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor
terrace area, and a good
kids menu. Check out their
pepper steaks.
KABIN
CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel,
815 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033
marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet
Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with
striking dcor and the bonus of views over the Saigon
River. Dishes range from
VND80,000 to VND900,000.
KOH THAI
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
4423
Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics
alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thais
creative cocktails merge
Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.
LE BANH MI
12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 1036
HCMC
THE EMPTY WOK

MIDDLE EASTERN PILAF WITH LAMB AND DRIED NUTS!
A food blogger and self-styled

chef, this month Riccha Arora
indulges her sweet tooth
A food blogger and self-styled chef, this month Riccha Arora gets exotic
pilaf is a dish in which rice is

cooked in a seasoned broth. But
this dish adds in boneless lamb,
dried nuts, almonds, cumin,
cinnamon, cardamom and rose essence
it will remind you of someplace exotic
youd like to travel, far, far away.
We cook the lamb first, and them mix it
with rice thats been soaked in plain water
and then cooked in lamb broth. The process
takes a bit long but is worth waiting for!
Cooking time: 1 hour and 20 minutes

Ingredients for Cooking the Lamb
500g boneless lamb, medium pieces
2 tbsp ginger garlic paste
1 cup chopped mint leaves
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1 tbsp lemon juice
2-3 bay leaves
2 whole black cardamoms and 3 whole green
cardamoms
1/2 tsp fennel powder
1/2 tsp clove powder
1/2 tsp cumin powder
1 inch cinnamon stick
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
Red chilli powder and salt to taste

2 cups water
1 tbsp butter
1/2 tbsp cooking oil
Ingredients for the Rice

1 cup basmati rice (long grain) thats been
soaked in water for 1 hour
1/2 cup mixed roasted dried nuts (almonds,
pistachios, pine nuts, raisins, others of your
choosing)
1/4 tsp rose water or rose essence
Cooking the Lamb

1) Heat oil and butter in a deep pan and add
bay leaves, whole black cardamom, whole
green cardamom and cinnamon stick. Next,
add ginger garlic paste and saut till its
golden brown.
2) Then add lamb pieces and cook for 10
minutes. Next add fennel powder, clove
powder, cumin powder, black pepper, red
chilli powder and salt to taste. Saut all
together.
3) Follow with mint leaves, cilantro
leaves and lemon juice, then add 2 cups of
water and cover. Keep the flame low and
cook until the lamb is very well cooked
about 45 minutes.
4) Once cooked, strain out broth from
the lamb, mint and cilantro leaves and keep
aside. We will use this broth for cooking the
rice.
Making the Rice

1) Turn the flame on medium, and in a
separate deep pan add lamb pieces. Next
layer it with soaked rice on top (drain the
water of rice used for soaking).
2) Follow with the mixed roasted dried
nuts and lamb broth. The broth should be
two cups, if the broth has dried up you can
add some extra water. The idea is to cook the
rice in two cups of water (the ratio is 1 cup
basmati rice is to 2 cups of water).
3) Now add rose essence as well.
4) Cover the lid fully, and let the rice cook
with lamb broth and all the wonderful spices
for 15 minutes on low flame. You can check
when the rice is fully cooked. Then let the
dish cool down, still covered, for 10 minutes
so that the exotic flavours are all intact.
5) Finally, serve it with your flavoured
yoghurt of your choice.
Riccha Arora runs the Facebook page Sassy
Kitchen facebook.com/arorassassykitchen
HCMC
LOLIVIER
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with
its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and
ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant
has quarterly Michelin star promotions and
an award winning pastry team.
LA BETTOLA
LITTLE ITALY
84 Ho Tung Mau Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4402
labettolasaigon.com
Located in the heart of Saigon, La Bettola is
the only restaurant in town managed by two
Italian chefs and an Italian waiter. A woodfired pizza oven, a downstairs bar and a
stylish, elegant setting on the second floor
are part of the mix. As is the home-made
mozzarella, ricotta cheese, ravioli magro,
tortelli mushrooms, pappardelle and mascarpone cheese for the tiramisu, which is
made fresh every day. Has a great selection
of Italian wine.
LA CUISINE
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant
bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu,
backed up with an extensive wine list.
LA HOSTARIA
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080
lahostaria.com
This downtown hideaway with rusticstyle
decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello dantico.
Also specializes in excellent wood-fired
pizzas.
LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON
CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION

40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263
lebouchondesaigon.com
A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic
staples such as French onion soup, escargot,
and moules marinires, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world
wines.
LUONG SON
PAN-VIETNAMESE
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330
Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs

bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in
warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharans
food menu is traditionally Spanish.
PASHA
MAY RESTAURANT
19 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686
may.restaurant19@gmail.com
7am to late
Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic
Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating,
an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the
Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this
multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out
their set lunches and happy hour.
MARKET 39
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 9999
MOGAMBO
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311
mogambo@saigonnet.vn
NAM GIAO
HUE CUISINE
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38
250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 9996
namgiao.com
TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL
25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677
pasha.com.vn
Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant
close to the mosque with Islamic-style white
dome dcor and comfortable, cushioned
seating.Authentically Turkish cuisine with a
sprinkling of western fare thrown in.
PENDOLASCO
PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian
restaurant serves up quality homemade
pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and
grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.
PIZZA 4PS
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet
delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and
calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more
traditional varieties.
NHA HANG NGON
VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD

160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131
NINETEEN
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
OMG!
FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1
A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from
Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell
modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a
jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.
OSAKA RAMEN
LE JARDIN
CLASSIC FRENCH
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465
Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a
relaxed garden setting within the French
cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap
house wine is served by the carafe.
LUCCA
TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN
88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3691
A contemporary trattoria in the heart of
Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine
with New York flair in a beautifully designed
space with high ceilings. The menu features
both traditional antipasti and substantial
main courses.
JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My
Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7
OPERA
Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
A contemporary, casual, trattoria-style restaurant with al fresco dining overlooking
the Opera House. Specialising in both traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine,
the restaurant also features an impressive
breakfast menu.
PACHARAN
SPANISH / EUROPEAN
97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924
HCMC
PROPAGANDA
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1
Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up
classic Vietnamese cuisine
in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with
Propaganda Art murals and
prints.
QUAN BUI 2
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 1515
With its leafy roof garden
and chic interior, Quan Bui
offers a wide selection of
Vietnamese cuisine which is
cooked in their open kitchen.
REFINERY
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades
this popular French-style
bistro and wine bar which
once housed the citys
opium refinery. The cuisine
runs from creative salads
through to Mediterranean
influenced mains.
REFLECTIONS
INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING

3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19
Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4999
RIVERSIDE CAF
Renaissance Riverside,
815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 0033
Offers versatile allday dining of international quality,
with the bonus of being able
to watch the action on the
river sidewalk. Features
western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.
SAIGON CAF
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant

and lounge brings to Saigon
the type of environment and
ambience youd expect of
New York, Singapore, Hong
Kong and Dubai. With the
dcor comes a modern take
on Japanese fare. A place to
see and be seen.
SEOUL HOUSE
KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4297
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT
PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21
Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes
and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong
Kong, Shang Palace has nine
private dining rooms and a
main dining area seating
over 300. Good for events.
SQUARE ONE
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL /
VIETNAMESE
First Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1234
An atmospheric Ho Chi
Minh City restaurant featuring simple and authentic
Vietnamese and Western
cuisine offered from an
impressive display of integrated show kitchens to
serve guests in five different
dining areas. Open for lunch
and dinner.
TANDOOR
SKEWERS
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious
Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging
from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki,
a range of dips, mousaka,
osso buco and lamb chop
skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.
SORAE
SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE

Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689
soraesushi.com
Set over two floors, this

74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3930 4839
Tandoorvietnam.com
TEMPLE CLUB
PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon,
the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one
of the citys best-preserved
buildings. Serving quality
Vietnamese and Indochine
cuisine at reasonable prices.
THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON

54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 2079
swisshousesaigon.com
Serving up authentic cuisine
spanning the three linguistic
regions of Switzerland, as
well as dishes from Bavaria
and Austria, this attractive,
two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant also boasts a beer
cellar in the basement.
TOKYO BBQ
JAPANESE BARBECUE
15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2527
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this
a great drinking and dining
venue
WARDA
MIDDLE-EASTERN
71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3822
info@wardavn.com
The deep colours, Arabic dcor and cushioned outdoor
terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.
The food is good, too, taking
in tabouleh, houmous, falafel
and mutabbal, shwarmas
and more. Sells authentic
shisha.
YAMANEKO
JAPANESE / OKINAWA
13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8433
yamanekovn.com
Funky Yamaneko down an
alley off Le Thanh Ton offers delicious, unpretentious
Okinawan fare alongside
mainland staples. Does a
great set lunch deal.
WRAP & ROLL

(08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen
NUTRIFORT
GENERAL FITNESS
2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8560
nutrifort.com
Offers fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. There is also a
spa and a restaurant serving
caloriecalibrated meals.
RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH

CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033
SAIGON FITNESS CO.

YU CHU
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 3520 9999
Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles,
fresh dim sum and hot wok
dishes within an impeccably
designed open kitchen, as
diners look on. Stylish and
spectacular.
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
SHERATON FITNESS
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

3824 1555
THE LANDMARK CLUB
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

ANUPA YOGA
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822

2394
anupa.net/yoga-anupa
CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE
THE BURGER CORNER
INTERNATIONAL
3821 0094
Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971

wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.
FITNESS CENTRE
Queen Ann Building, 2830
32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
5999
Cfyc.com.vn
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext. 176
In addition to the squash
court, facilities include a
fullyequipped gym room, a
rooftop swimming pool and
separate male and female
saunas.
GALLERIES
BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART
GALLERY
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3821 3695
bluespacearts.com
DOGMA
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades
by art collector Dominic Scriven,
the majority of the work comes
from the war period when provocative poster art was used to
inspire and motivate. Sells prints
of the originals and related products.
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4441
baotangmythuattphcm.vn
PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 3181
07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 3166
phuongmaigallery.com
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

3822 9332
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious French
owned grocery shop stocking a
large range of foods, organic
fruit and vegetables, imported
beers and wines. Also sells
luxury branded products from
the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch
serves tasty baguette rolls in a
comfortable lounge area with
free WiFi, and offers probably
the best selection of cheese and
cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.
BACCHUS CORNER
WINE SHOP
158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829
3306
bacchuscorner.com
A range of spirits, whiskies
and wines at affordable prices.
Wines come from all over the
world with an especially good
selection from France, Chile
and South Africa. Also has an
excellent range of single malts,
top shelf tequilas and has an
onsite wine tasting machine,
the Enomatic, the first of its kind
in Vietnam.
DALOC
WINE SHOP
74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
5404 3575
daloc.vn
KIM HAI BUTCHERS
BUTCHERS
73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 4376
kimhai.vn
PHUONG HA
GROCERS
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914
1318
RED APRON
WINE SHOP
22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 0021
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE SHOP
15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 8826
One of the busiest wine retailers
in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also
stock imported beers, bottled
mineral water and spirits.
VEGGYS
GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8526
VINIFERA
WINE SHOP
7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0860
viniferavn.com
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP
74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
6299 1315
Professional advice on selecting
and tasting wines. Also offers
regular popular wine courses.
The outdoor terrace area is the
perfect spot to sample a new
vintage.
HAIRDRESSERS
VENUS
41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 6298
MEDICAL & DENTAL

ACCADENT
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com
CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL

(CMI)
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC
1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic provides general practice and a
range of specialties including
cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine.
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 7848
vietnammedicalpractice.com
Fullservice 24hour healthcare provider with highlyqualified doctors handling everything
from emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and outpatient care, checkups, travel
medicine and medical evacuations.
FV SAIGON CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
6290 6167
fvhospital.com
Stateoftheart medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and
Vietnamese doctors provide the
full spectrum health care. Plus
sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical
consultations.
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 6999
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian
managed SIAN Clinic offers a
wide range of skincare medical
therapies to treat problems by
an experienced dermatologist
and facial care team. The clinic
utilises the latest therapies.
WESTCOAST INTL DENTAL CLINIC

Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen
Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
6999
The Practice, Level 1, 71-79
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
6777
westcoastinternational.com
An international dental clinic
equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer
cosmetic and implant dentistry
with a focus on making each patients experience anxiety and
pain free.
INDOCHINE SPA
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with
aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered
by qualified therapists using
natural French products in a
clean and pleasant environment.
JASMINE
45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
Sparelated salon with a good
reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely
haircuts from VND330,000 plus
a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.
MEKONG BLISS SPA

112, Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299
0563
10am to 10pm (last booking
9.30pm)
Q SPA & SALON

31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08) 3905
4609
Qspaandsalon.com
An old world, Indochine-esque
interior complete with wooden
floors, flowers and flowing
drapes makes this an excellent
atmosphere in which to enjoy a
massage. Also offers hair styling
and facials.
ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is welldesigned,
ambient and outfitted day spa
offers body treatments as well
as facials and foot treatments.
SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH

CLUB
3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung &
Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
SALONS & SPAS

AQUA DAY SPA
Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel
and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: (08) 3827 2828
aquadayspasaigon.com
THANH SANCTUARY
Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0885
THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB

22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A
Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 2220 2600
spa1960.vn
FAME NAILS SALON
THE SPA
3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909

682 827
famenails.com
Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu

Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514
9007
Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65 Le
Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1800
thespavietnam.com
GLOW SPA
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8368
glowsaigon.com
Modern and bright downtown
spa, offers massages lasting
from 30 minutes, to two-hour
hot stone therapy, includes one
suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers
hand and foot care and a hair
styling area.
THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
XUAN SPA
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 1234
hyattpure.com
HCMC
FOOD PROMOS
A food blogger and self-styled

chef, this month Riccha Arora
indulges her sweet tooth
A dish from the foie gras buffet every Friday at The Sheraton
Epicure is a noun
Hotel Equatorial
epicure.com.vn
A person who cultivates a discerning
taste for good food and wine is called an
Epicure. Theyre also a catering company
based in District 2, happy to take
your bookings to let the festive season
continue! They want you to know that
whether you are hosting a dinner party
for friends at home, a relaxed summer
garden party, a barbecue or a lavish
reception, their blend of experience,
planning and attention to detail will
ensure a successful occasion every time.
So there you have it, check them out next
time you need a discerning palate at your
party.
equatorial.com/hcm
Youve gotten your small break, but soon
there will be more shopping to do. Hotel
Equatorial wants to be part of the solution
not part of the problem, which is why
theyre offering their top-notch Tet Hamper
and takeaway Tet goodies from Jan. 2 to
Feb. 19. And thats not all from Jan. 10 to
Feb. 20 take in a little Tet preview at Chit
Chats Tet Buffet, priced at VND798,000++.
Foie Gras and Aussie Themed

Nights
@ Sheraton Saigon
sheratonsaigon.com
Saigon Caf likes to mix it up every now
and then and a foie gras themed buffet

definitely counts as mixing it up. Every
Friday in January you can experience foie
gras with apricot and blue berry coulis,
goose liver foam, foie gras terrine, or beef
tenderloin with goose liver sauce, all with a
free flow of taste-complementing sparkling
wine VND1.05 million++.
Stop in Saturdays for the Aussie themed
buffet with a wide range of Australian
favourites, including kangaroo tail broth
with barley, Aussie leg of lamb with
chunky roast vegetables, prime rib of beef
with Yorkshire pudding and horseradish
sauce, roasted honey coated pumpkins and
Four n Twenty pies with mushy peas
VND1.05 million++.
HCMC
pham ngu lao
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING

& ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
GALLERIES
BAKERIES
CRUMBS
BAKERY
117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 1992
crumbs.com.vn
Dubbed the local bakery,
Crumbs serves up a variety
of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and
garlicbased buns and loafs,
meatfilled pastries, sweet
pastries, healthconscious
breads and more. There is
also a breakfast menu and
variety of sandwiches available.
TOUS LES JOURS
KOREAN BAKERY
(08) 3914 4350
BARS & CLUBS

BIA TUOI 33
BIA HOI
33 Bui Vien, Q1
BREAD & BUTTER
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT
FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8452
With a free book exchange,
and tasty Sunday night
roasts, the tiny Bread &
Butter is a perfect place for
homesick expats and beer
enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served
here exclusively in Ho Chi
Minh City).
GO2
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 9575
GODMOTHER BAR
RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE /
WESTERN
3832 4589
godmothersaigon.com
Only a couple blocks from
the bru-haha of Bui Vien,
Godmothers is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent
mojitos, good food, and the
weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJs.
LE PUB
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
Tel: (08) 3837 7679
Warm colors, artsy dcor
and a friendly ambiance
combine to create a perfect
setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese

cuisine. Check out their daily
drink specials and Tuesday
night pub quizzes.
UNIVERSAL BAR
LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR

90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633
343933
universalbarsaigon.com
LONG PHI
FRENCH / RESTOBAR
3837 2704
French-run but universally
appealing, Long Phi has been
serving the backpacker area
with excellent cuisine and
occasional live music since
1990. Excellent late-night
bistro cuisine.
SAIGON VIBRATIONS
REGGAE BAR
143 Nguyen Trai, Q1
facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae
inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the
name of that most special
of sounds the one from
Jamaica.
SEVENTEEN SALOON
THEMED MUSIC BAR

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
Wild West-themed bar
doubles as a music venue,
where three talented Filipino
bands (B&U, Wild West and
Most Wanted) play covers of
rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2
and Guns n Roses. Top shelf
spirits and friendly, hostess
style table service are the
name game here.
SPOTTED COW
CAFES
BOBBY BREWERS
INTERNATIONAL
3920 4090
bobbybrewers.com
Choose from a full range
of caf beverages and a
fast-food style menu as you
watch the latest Hollywood
hits in their upstairs lounge.
Check website for movie locations and schedule.
CHICCO DICAFF CAF
ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE

213 Bui Vien, Q1
facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee
Set just off the street on the
quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco
Dicaff serves an expat and
local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured
concoctions, from a five-seat
coffee bar.
INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
INTERNATIONAL / SPORT
3920 7670
Alfrescosgroup.com
Spotted Cow delivers the
fun-loving atmosphere that
its playfully decorated black
and white spotted interior
promises, as well as decent
international comfort food,
a range of happy hours, live
sports, and darts.
BAM SKATE SHOP
THI CAF
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2084
8am to 10.30pm
LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE

224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2929
T&R TAVERN
DIVE BAR
57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 9839

SKATEWEAR / STREET
641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BLUE DRAGON
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnam-
HCMC
TOP EATS
PROPAGANDA VIETNAMESE BISTRO
magine a slice of Vietnam lifted out of

its tiny plastic chair and taken around
the world. It picks up a taste for wine
and some culinary finesse in Paris, it
scours the vintage vinyl stores of Brixton,
Kingston and Harlem for its tunes,
and kicks back over brunch in a trendy
Brooklyn diner. This is how I imagine
Propaganda was born.
Since January 2014, this buzzing joint on
Han Thuyen has been serving up superb
modern Vietnamese cuisine in a chic yet
relaxed urban setting to an old-school
soundtrack so cool they could probably do
away with the aircon. Frequently packed
with locals, tourists and expats, Propaganda
is much more than your average foreignerfriendly eatery on the District 1 tourist
trail. There are no gimmicks here. With
Vietnamese roots entwined with western
inspiration, its a merging of cultures in just
the right balance.
Whats a Vietnamese Bistro Anyway?

We wanted to revisit Vietnamese cuisine,
explains restaurant manager / French expat
Cindy Kawak. In Vietnam and all around
the world, it is always very similar. We
wanted to twist it a little bit.
To understand what she means, check
out their lineup of made-to-order fresh
spring rolls served sushi style in
Photos by Glen Riley
bite-sized rows. If you order fresh rolls

in Vietnam, she says, you will almost
always have shrimp and pork. Here we
are using ingredients that Vietnamese
people eat every day to innovate the classic
recipes.
Combinations such as omelette and
avocado, duck with ginger-infused
fish sauce and barbecued squid with
vegetables all demonstrate a mastery of
local ingredients and flavours, combined
with a refreshingly modern approach. Add
to this a carefully selected yet surprisingly
affordable imported wine list, and you start
to get the picture.
And the verdict? It works perfectly.
Theyre not meddling with what we know
and love. The flavour combinations are
unexpected yet in many ways comfortingly
familiar.
Its not fusion, says Cindy. We are not
putting foie gras in there, for example.
Along with old friends like pho ga, pho bo
and bo luc lac (here served tender and juicy
and packed with flavour alongside sweet
potato fries), inventive soups, tempting
salads and hearty meat and rice dishes are
also available. Be sure to investigate the
specials board too.
On my visit, for starters I sampled the
wild pepper and green mango salad.
Topped with moist, grilled chicken breast,
it was Vietnam on a plate the balance of
flavours in the dressing was spot on, the

salad crunchy and fresh. Nothing is premade here.
All Day Every Day

Propaganda opens for breakfast at 7.30
every morning, with two set menus of
homemade banh mi and noodle soups
served until 10.45am. For brunch, lunch
or dinner, go a la carte or ditch the menu
completely and let Cindy and her team
choose for you with their food and wine
Discovery options. Showcasing four
of their favourite dishes alongside three
glasses of carefully paired wines and
rounded off with a pot of organic green tea,
at VND450,000 its a bargain of a feast.
Propaganda is big on wine, but if grape
juice just aint your thing, it seems every
beer in Saigon has also been rounded up
and listed here. Teas, coffees, fruit shakes
and juices also firmly establish Propaganda
as an all-day hangout youll keep returning
to.
Finally, a note on their desserts they
are very good, and dangerously affordable.
The chia seed custard was light yet
decadent, but the Marou dark chocolate ice
cream left me speechless in delight.
Its homemade, says Cindy, smiling.
Of course! Simon Stanley
Propaganda is at 21 Han Thuyen, Q1,
HCMC. For more info visit propaganda.vn
HCMC
themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
CORIANDER
MARATHON
LA CANTINA
BUDGET CLOTHING
3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019
PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
papaya-tshirt.com
THAI / VIETNAMESE
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837
1311
JJS FISH N CHIPS
FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL

Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De
Tham, Q1
TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:
0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com
ITALIAN / TEX-MEX
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
PUNJABI INDIAN RESTAURANT
NORTH INDIAN / PUNJAB

40/23 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3508 3777
monuvn@gmail.com
Ignore the non-trendy, holein-the-wall appearance. This
side-street Indian serves
up some excellent fare at
reasonable prices, with a
number of Punjabi specialities to boot.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 9780
EAT
BABAS KITCHEN

3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian
does the full range of fare
from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka
masala, kormas, kebabs and
fiery vindaloos.
BURRITO REVOLUTION
TEX-MEX / STREET STALL

714882
CHIS CAF
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable caf is a rarity
in the backpacker area for
its genuinely good musical
playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked
potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a
popular motorbike rental
service.
VEGAN
(08) 3821 2538
One of the citys oldest eateries (established in 1925)
does some of the cheapest
and tastiest vegan cuisine in
town, all cooked up without
onions, garlic or MSG.
MARGHERITA
ORANGE
BUDGET CLOTHING
3820 2620
9am to 10pm
TIN NGHIA
SISTERS CAFE
VIETNAMESE/WESTERN
Tel: 0903 643446
Light wood paneling, beige
walls and locally themed
artwork help to create a
fresh and airy ambience in
this caf-cum-restaurant
that is owned by the woman
behind Chis Caf. Also does
visa extensions and motorbike rental.
TAM HAO HANDPULLED NOODLES

CHINESE NOODLES
195A De Tham, Q1
tamhao.com
Nothing gets better than a
bowl of tasteful broth and
hand-pulled Chinese noodles, especially when its
from Tam Hao. Hip interior
design draws many a traveller into this tasteful but
non-fancy hotel noodle restaurant, leaving them craving for more.
THE HUNGRY PIG
BACON BAR / CAFE

3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and
more bacon, all set in airy,
spacious atmosphere, and
you get The Hungry Pig, an
eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty
through to the bacon Caesar.
A popular hangout.
WRAP & ROLL

226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check
out the second floor, junglein-the-wall dcor at this
particular branch. Unique
and refreshing.
ZEUS
GREEK / KEBAB
3837 3248
ZOOM CAF
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures.
com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a caf
and restaurant by day and
a sidewalk drinking joint
by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.
GALLERIES
GALERIE QUYNH
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8019
galeriequynh.com
In addition to working with
artists based in Vietnam,
Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from
around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports
education through talks, lectures and publications.

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
A WORLD
OF
MARRYING MONEY AND MISSION
had another column written for this

month, but a recent government
declaration regarding Article 10 in the
Law on Enterprises made me jump for
joy and write this instead.
Vietnam has announced its legal
recognition of social enterprises effective
July 2015, and this is a positive step in
furthering socioeconomic development
in Vietnam. Many women and men
have long been advocating for this
recognition. While the business-charity
hybrid is not a new idea, the exciting
part is the acknowledgement of social
enterprises ability to address social and
environmental issues through marketoriented solutions.
Microfinance in Vietnam was an early
form of social finance when the Womens
Union started the TYM Fund in 1992, to
provide credit and savings as a poverty
alleviation mechanism. Social enterprise
can be for profit or nonprofit and has
different names, such as cooperatives,
charity or benevolent societies. Some
readers might not know that Goodwill
Industries in North America has sold
donated clothing for more than 100
years in order to fund job training
programming. Social entrepreneurialism
is about marrying money and mission.

Maybe you havent heard of Craftlink,
Safe Living Company or Huong Hoa
Cassava Starch Factory in Vietnam, but
youve likely heard of Grameen Bank,
Teach For America and Kiva.
The Finer Points

Article 10s finer points still need to
be hammered out, such as a concise
definition for Vietnam, but I think
most would agree that social enterprise
utilises business tools to forge social
good. Currently the government says a
social enterprise is one that uses at least
51 percent of the annual profits of the
business to reinvest in order to achieve
the [social mission]. This may come as
a bit of a shock for, say, cafs employing
the disabled or those returning 10 percent
of gross to their mission. There is a big
difference between socially responsible
businesses and social enterprise. As Ive
said, these are still nascent days.
Yet, there are those who still call this
hybrid model doubtful or worse, a
sham, especially if impact investing is
involved. At the end of the day its still
only about profit, a woman recently
told me. But this person, working in the
GOOD
BY DANA MCNAIRN
nonprofit sphere, neednt be alarmed. Its

not a scheme by venture capital wolves
dressed up in humanitarian clothing.
Id argue it creates opportunities for
community organisations to access new
sources of much-needed funds.
Article 10 further states that the
government is committed to [adopting]
policies to encourage, support and
promote the development of social
enterprise, which signals Vietnams
willingness to become a leader in social
entrepreneurialism by fostering the right
environment to do so.
Social enterprise is not a panacea
to cure the worlds ills, but its very
hybridity is another useful tool in an
increasingly ramped-up toolbox to bring
about durable, transformative change
to solving those so-called intractable
problems.
This recognition is also cause for
celebration about those daunting
Sisyphean challenges: you can push a
rock up a mountain and not lose the rock.
Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a
nonprofit social enterprise and vocational
training programme for at-risk youth. She
can be contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.
au
HCMC
district 1
BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

/ COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
Binh Thanh
in
h
an
Tr
u
Th
i
ie
n
Le
Huu
C
cT
ha
n
ng
Th
an
g8
Le
Lo
i
ng
Ng
.H
ue
Ham Nghi
District 2
Hu
ng
Da
o
District
10
t
Kie
Tr
an
n
Va
District 4
Vo
BARS & CLUBS

BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)
CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL

37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1,
Tel: 0906 780081
CHILL SKYBAR
TOP-END BAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
For the spectacular views
alone, Chill Skybar remains
the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped
bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering
holes in the city.
HOA VIEN
CZECH BREWHOUSE
3825 8605
hoavien.vn
vatory on the other side of

Pham Ngu Lao. Open late,
holds a number of nights
like Tropical Wednesday,
Thursday-before-midnightshots-only ladies night and
Underground Saturdays, all
in an attempt to pump things
up for the party seekers in
town.
BOOKS
LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM
PHONG
82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 7858
Nam Phong Bookstore was
founded at the of end 2002 in
Ho Chi Minh City as the first
and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.
Only books written in French
are for sale, covering for all
ages and tastes. A catalogue
is available at namphongsaigon.com
MZ CLUB
LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB

56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 5258
m-zing.com
SAIGON VIBRATIONS
Du
Ng
uy
en
Ma
Du
Ba
h
an
Ng
uy
en
Kh
ai
Ph
n
Bi
e
To
n
Ho
Ha
i
Ca
ch
in
h
en
Ti
District 3
an
g
REGGAE BAR
143 Nguyen Trai, Q1
facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
Saigons first reggae bar
located close to The Obser-
CAFES
(A) CAFE
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da
Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701
Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews
in Saigon. Using own grown
and specially sourced Dalat
beans, speciality coffee such
as cold drip, siphon, and

Chemex are must haves for
the avid coffee drinker.
BANKSY CAFE
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 01699 990003
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
A small but swanky cafe,
Banksy promises a young
and vibrant hideout in an
old 1960s-era apartment
building. Remember to head
up the steep stairs within to
dig into their secret stash of
clothes and accessories.
CAFE THOAI VIEN

159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: 0918 115657
cafethoaivien.com
Veer off the street and find
yourself plunging straight
into lush greenery. Cafe
Thoai Vien serves up a
spacious and airy setting
to enjoy a quiet sip. From
small eats to big bites and
everything to drink, its a
great place to unwind from
all that buzz.
INTERNATIONAL
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3833 3648
coffeebean.com.vn
HCMC
Large portioned coffee
lures customers into the
flagship store of this international caf chain. The
contemporary, yet generic
atmosphere is bolstered by
comfortable seating and a
menu to satisfy any sweet
tooth.
DECIBEL
INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense,
this two-floor, relaxed caf
offers beautiful decor and
unique original events like
live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great
prices and food with daily
specials.
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH
97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3844 3295
saigongivral.com
I.D. CAF
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben
Thanh Market, i.d offers
casual caf dining with a
wide variety of food and
beverages. Where modern
design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.
LAN MIEN DINING CAFE
76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
2718
The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of
this popular, contemporary
caf. Enjoy live music on
weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese
or espresso-based coffee.
LE PETIT CAF
FRENCH
112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6291 2067
MOCKINGBIRD CAFE
4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
Sitting atop of a number of
cafe establishments in an old
apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a
romantic time over mojitos,
or good ol caffeine-infused
relaxation.
while spending an afternoon

in this candy-land inspired
cafe.
phere. Subtle lighting and

an extensive wine list make
up the mix.
THINGS CAFE
CAF IF
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,

Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
Feel the calm and serenity
of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old
Apartment. The quaint and
relaxing atmosphere sets for
some alone time, or quality
conversations held over a
drink or two.
COBALT
COOKING CLASSES
OVERLAND CLUB
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm
The Overland Club organises
pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
monthly special activities,
such as the Soba Festival,
pottery painting classes, the
art of decorating paper and
multinational cuisine days.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

GAYA
CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 1495
gayavietnam.com
Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II
buildings in the city, Gaya has
a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps
and tableware, with all products both constructed and
designed locally. You can
find a wide range of mirrors
and lacquerware with bowls,
vases and contemporary
Asian-style boxes as well as
a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all
colours and designs. Prices
here match the quality of the
products.
EAT
27 GRILL
THE OTHER PERSON CAFE

2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
Fancy being served up by
maids in costume? Call for
a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking
VIETNAMESE FRENCH
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3846 9853
MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a
French twist, cooked fresh
to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and
beef stew, stir fries, hot pots
and curries.
GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
Besides the spectacular
views, the cuisine at 27 Grill
is a real draw, with steaks
and other international
grill-style fare in a refined
yet contemporary atmos-
ROOFTOP RESTOBAR
Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon
Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686
pullman-saigon-centre.com
A tapas-style contemporary
international menu in an
equally modern chic space,
Cobalt also has panoramic
views over the city thanks to
its 30th-floor location. Has a
focus on wine matching and
tasting. A hotel restaurant
with a difference.
DYNASTY
CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Elegant surroundings, top
quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable,
roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese
restaurants in town, with a
classic dim sum menu.
LION CITY
SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery,
plating up the likes of nasi
lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well
as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish
head curry.
MAY RESTAURANT
INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE
3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08)
3910 1277
May-cloud.com
Meaning Cloud, May utilises homemade recipes
and broths developed by the
restaurateurs father, such
as pan-fried duck breast
served with nuoc mam and
ginger, and 1940s style
spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in
an Indochine atmosphere.
6290 8899
Traditional pan-Southeast
Asian favourites served in
a visually arresting setting
within a French colonial-era
villa, just minutes from the
backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy
juices and smoothies.
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)
Well-regarded clinic offering

general examinations and
specialising in pediatrics,
digestive diseases, cardiology, womens health and
internal medicine. Offers a
membership programme
and cooperates with most
insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.
NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE
AMERICAN / FRENCH
2527 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373
steakhouse.com.vn
NYSW is well known for
serving up formidable prime
signature cuts of New York
strip steak, rib eye, double
strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.
PARKVIEW
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Flagship restaurant of The
New World Hotel, serving
lavish buffets all day. Many
cooking stations ranging
from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads,
cold cuts, cheese plates and
desserts.
QUAN BUI
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3602 2241
Make sure to try the sauted
shrimps with cashew nuts
and crispy fried tofu with
lime wedge, at this popular,
high-quality eatery where all
food is served in traditional
crockery.
QUAN UT UT
US-STYLE BARBECUE
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 4500
facebook.com/quanutut
Its a no-brainer, right?
American-style barbecue in
a contemporary Vietnamese,
quan nhau-style setting. Of
course it is, which is why
Quan Ut Ut is constantly
packed with grill-obsessed
diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue
and Platinum pale ale served
on tap.
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH

DAN
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 7751

MONSOON
Manor Apartments, 91
Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253
Steve Chipman, who had a
hand in establishing gyms
at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness one of
Vietnams largest and bestequipped gyms.
STAR FITNESS GYM
HEALTH CLUB & GYM
GALLERIES
CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel:
0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Located in a quiet corner
of District 1, Craig Thomas
Gallery offers a compelling
mix of up-and-coming and
established local artists. In
operation since 2009, its
founder has been promoting
Vietnamese art for a decade.
WE LINK
COUNSELLING
64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 2900
contact@welink.vn
Psychological counselling services for individual,
group and family. Diverse
counsellors and therapists,
using Cognitive Behaviour
Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For
adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French
and Spanish spoken.
SAN ART
3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel:
(08) 3840 0183
San-art.org
San Art is an independent,
artist-run exhibition space
that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an
exchange programme that
invites international artists/
curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
re.com
MEDICAL
& DENTAL
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3925 1990
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 4545
SALONS & SPAS

CAT MOC SPA
63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)
6295 8926
catmocspa.com
Aimed exclusively at ladies
and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa
include facial, body and foot
care, and Japanese-style
haircuts, as well as steamsauna, paraffin and waxing
services.
HAIR BAR
CONTEMPORARY SALON
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(FREEPHONE) 1800 1108
hairbar.vn
A unique themed hair salon
where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment
only, giving female clients the
opportunity to get their hair
done on the run. Of course,
they have to look fabulous,
too. Fortunately this is one of
Hair Bars specialities. Check
the salon out on Facebook:
facebook.com/hairbarvn.
SPA TROPIC
79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910

5575
spatropic.com
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean
Consulate. Spa Tropic has
a long-standing reputation
among expats and visitors
alike for its professional
quality service.
HCMC
two pieces of each particular
item. Also has a great range
of imported fabrics up on the
2nd floor and an in-house
sewing room for cushions,
sofas and curtains. Offers
custom-made furniture and
delivery within four weeks.
Home dcor orders are also
available.
district 2
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS

& FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR &
WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL /
SALONS & SPAS
DISTRICT 2
CHI LAI
Ni
Thao Dien
i
u
g
H n
hQ
Bn
Ng
uy
n
V
n
Xa
Binh Thanh
Ngu
o
Xun Th
y
Xun Th
BAKERY
Tel: (08) 6281 8392
The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien,
Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries
such as croissants, pain au
chocolat, pain raisins, pizza
dough, pates feuillete and
much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc,
Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and
Ho Chi Minh City.
VOELKER
BAKERY
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
Frenchrun bakery selling
probably the tastiest range
of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passionfruit tart is
a must try.
BARS & CLUBS

BAAN THAI
SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE

3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
A bar and a Thai restaurant
all in one, the focus here is
not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live
sports. Lots of live sports.
The Thai cuisine is cooked
up by no-holds-barred Thai
chefs.
Xa
DISTRICT 2
BMV PUB & GRILL
38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel:
01299 839314
facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill
With its seven TVs, full-size
mezzanine area, pool table
and aircon lounge space,
BMV is the perfect place in
District 2 to relax and watch
the sports. Has live music on
Thursday and Friday nights,
and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in
Thao Dien.
BUDDHA BAR
RESTOBAR
3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
Just across the lane from
McSorleys, this pub with an
eccentric European tilt and
some nice, authentic cuisine
draws an older crowd with
darts, pool and weekly poker
tourneys.
MCSORLEYS
IRISH BAR
4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126
9026006
Standing in the former home
of Gaudi, McSorelys is full of
surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool,
reggae parties, comedy
nights, and sporting events
projected onto the patio wall.
SAIGON OUTCAST
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAF BAR
188/1 Nguyen Van Huong,

Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com
Up-cycling and innovative
design form the foundation
for this bar / arts venue /
mini- skate park. Come for
barbeque and reasonably
priced drinks, stick around
for entertaining events and
adorable puppies.
THE FAN CLUB
SPORTS BAR
Ground Floor, The Vista,
628C Hanoi Highway, Q2
dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub
12 quality screens and eight
draught beers, music spun
by DJs, excellent burgers,
quiz nights and barbecues.
All in an attractive, contemporary environment.
CAFES
AGNES CAFE
COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable cafe
in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat,
smoothies, juices, pastries
and desserts all day. Offers
a western-fare breakfast,
lunch and dinner menu with
a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with
salads and more typical
international cuisine. Now
open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed
and intimate.
CAF EVITA
LAID-BACK CAF / RESTAURANT

230A Nguyen Van Huong,
Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512
3888

LITTLE ANH-EM
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: 0917 567506
In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies
and children up to 10 years
old, Little Anh-Em stocks
sleeping bags and other accessories.
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

AUSTIN HOME
REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 0023
austinhomeinteriors.com
Located in a villa-style
building, this An Phu-based
shop stocks antique repro
furniture. All products are
samples, so its limited and
exclusive with only one or
AGNES CAF
CAF FARE / TEX-MEX

11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable caf
offering up a western-fare
breakfast, lunch and dinner
menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in
with salads and more typical
international cuisine. Open
until 10pm.
BAAN THAI
PAN-THAI
3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this
An Phu eatery. The menu
has a whole page dedicated
to tom yum soup as well
as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine
cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.
BOAT HOUSE
Th
Tr
BAKEUP ATELIER
Ni
nh
Song H
g
n Hon
Hu Cnh
BAKERIES
Nguy
n
uy
Ng
No
Trn
nh
Song H
n No
Xa
Mai Ch
ng
H
ng
c H
Qu
y n Vn
Binh Thanh
Th
HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese
furniture brand is a good
choice for most families with
its respected high-quality
designs and competitive
prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach
and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises
in sofas and other furniture
such as table sets, shelves
and kitchen cabinets. There
is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous
choices of curtains and accessories.
EAT
FEELING TROPIC
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181
8am to 6pm, closed Sundays
Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this
three-storey building is so
packed full of items for sale
that it doesnt seem to have
enough space for all of its
products. The basement
storey carries outdoor
furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table
sets, while the second level
stocks all types of indoor
furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the
level above. Special orders
are taken for delivery within
three weeks. Also offers a
rental service.
GAYA
CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
(08) 6281 9680
gayavietnam.com
Set in a typical suburban
villa, Gaya sells chic and
sophisticated indoor and
outdoor
sofas, rugs, lamps, jewellery, scents, bedding, lacquerware and tableware,
all in a showroom-style
environment designed to
give you a sense of how to
construct that perfect interior. Also boasts a wine and
champagne bar that serves
up finger food, both indoors
and out front in the garden
by the pool.
THE FURNITURE HOUSE
HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790
TATTOO ARTISTS
With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over
the past few years there
has been an increase in
the number of tattoo studios around the city.
Customers have the
choice of picking their
own tattoo out of the
many look books on offer
in the studios or bringing
in their own design. Most
of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.
Pricing depends on size
and style.
LAC VIET TATTOO 608
Dien Bien Phu, Q10

Tel: (08) 3830 4668
106 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: (08) 3821 7068
lacviettattoo.com
SAIGON BODY ART
135 Cong Quynh, Q1

Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com
SAIGON INK
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1

Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com
SAIGON TATTOO
31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net
SAIGON TATTOO GROUP

81 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn
TATTOO SAIGON
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1

Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com
TATTOO TAM BI
209 Bui Vien, Q1

Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat.com
HCMC
DELIVERY
BEN STYLE
Tel: 0906 912730

www.vietnammm.com/
restaurants-ben-style
Healthy, calorie-counted
sandwich and deli fare
Boom has chosen to focus on

the fundamentals of the perfect burger sweet potato
fries, jalapeno-infused beef
patties and special avocado
blends.
CHEZ GUIDO
Tel: (08) 3898 3747

www.chezguido.com
Vietnamese, international
fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches
DOMINOS PIZZA
Tel: (08) 3939 3030

www.dominos.vn
Pizzas, wings, desserts
EAT.VN
www.eat.vn
Delivery service website
for local restaurants
EL GATO NEGRO
Tel: (08) 6660 1577

Californian-style burritos
HUNGRYPANDA.VN
www.hungrypanda.vn
KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999

www.kfcvietnam.com.vn
Fried chicken, chicken
burgers, sides
LOTTERIA
Tel: (08) 3910 0000

www.lotteria.vn
Burgers, fried chicken,
sides
PIZZA HUT (PHD)
LA CLOSERIE DELISA
FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT

52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2
A tropical garden ambience
that is at once French yet
contemporary Indochinese
is the home of this table
dhote style restaurant and
bar. Classic French cuisine
at reasonable prices in the
heart of Thao Dien.
LU BU
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08)
6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
Drawing inspiration from
the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean
and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run
restaurant bathed in white
focuses on wholesome,
fresh ingredients, with
breads, cheeses, pickles,
pastas and preserves made
on site daily from scratch. A
well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.
Has petanque on the terrace.
Tel: (08) 3838 8388

www.pizzahut.vn
Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers
SCOOZI
Tel: (08) 3823 5795

www.scoozipizza.com
Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts
TACO BICH
www.tacobich.com
Homemade Mexican fare
WILLY WOOS
Tel: (08) 3941 5433

www.blackcatsaigon.com
US-style chicken and
waffles
VIETNAMMM
MEKONG MERCHANT
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE /

SEAFOOD
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6478
info@mekongmerchant.com
The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the
place in An Phu. Set around
a cobble-stoned courtyard
the cuisine includes gourmet
seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.
TAMAGO
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag
in Thao Dien, Tamago has
indoor and out door seating,
a terrace and private rooms.
They have a ladies night on
Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on
Saturday evenings. Have a
second restaurant in Mui Ne.
THE DECK
MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon
River across from Thanh
Da Island, this innovative
restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a
Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails
and a long wine list.
THE LOOP
HEALTHY CAF FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)
3602 6385

AQUAFIT
AQUABIKING
65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao
Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
008985
aquafit.vn
CHIARA SQUINZI
Tel: 01278 163620
laholista.com
Experienced health coach
and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients
achieve health and weight
goals through an innovative
holistic approach of food,
body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.
K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY
BOOM BOOM BURGER
US-STYLE BURGER JOINT

2 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
532378
boomboomburgers.wago.co
A simple and tasty menu
similar to that of the USs InN-Out burger, the tiny Boom
PENDOLASCO
PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Saigons longest running
Italian restaurant, classic fare is combined with a
special contemporary menu
that brings together a fusion
of European dishes, cooked
up with Italian flair. Excellent Facebook-based delivery service. Go to facebook.
com/Pendolasco2 for full
menu and info.
BOXING / FITNESS
49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2. Tel:
0947 77 13 26
Cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An Phu,
started by fitness guru Cyril
features the same personalized mentorship Cyrils
clients love. Includes yoga,
boxing and fitness for kids
and adults every day. No
membership fees. Pay for
classes in installments of
10. Also has kids activites
classes. Monday to Friday
every week at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by
Cyril himself.
100%
MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES

26B Thao Dien, Q2
100percentvn.com
BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS

100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: 0909 540030
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also
offering fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving caloriecalibrated meals.
GROCERY & DELI

41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2630
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from the
likes of Fauchon. The deli
upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung
branch serves tasty baguette
rolls in a comfortable lounge
area with free WiFi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured
meats in town. Free delivery
for Districts 1, 2 and 3.
HAIRDRESSERS
CONCEPT COIFFURE
(08) 3519 4625
Conceptcoiffure.vn
Open daily from 9am to 8pm
Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship
salon Venus Coiffure to a villa
in Thao Dien. A full range of
services is offered including
a dedicated kids salon.
KIDS
FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
www.firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for
two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training
wheels or stabilisers, and
support proper balance development.
WINE SHOP
Corner of Thao Dien & Duong
34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08)

3825 7750
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel:

(08) 2222 0383
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
PARKSON PLAZA
35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3827 7636
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)

3829 4888
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
SAIGON SQUARE
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,
Q1
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics
SAIGON TAX
MEDICAL & DENTAL

3744 2000
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.
SALONS & SPAS
Trading Centre
135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3821 3849
9am to 9.30pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics, Souvenirs,
Restaurant
VINCOM CENTER
70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3936 9999
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
ZEN PLAZA
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel:
(08) 3925 0339
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
AUTHENTIC SPA
Thao Dien Village, Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744
2222
AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON

VINO WINE SHOP
DIAMOND PLAZA
SAIGON CENTRE
CLASSIC FINE FOODS
GROCERIES & IMPORTER

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street),
Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the citys five
star hotels, also distributing
brands like San Pellegrino,
Rougie foie gras, Galbani
cheese, fresh poultries,
meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all
the products at the gourmet
shop on location.
SHOPPING MALLS
HUNG VUONG PLAZA
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
www.vietnammm.com
Live music, mini-festivals and

functions are regular events
at this spacious restobar in
An Phu on the banks of the
Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.
CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER
2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059

Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines
with a portfolio spanning
old and new world as well
as everything in between.
The outdoor terrace area is
the perfect spot to sample a
new tipple.
104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,

Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
ing renders a great spot to
relax. The mouth-watering
western menu is on the expensive side.
district 3
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES /

CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS /
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
ACOUSTIC
LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3930 2239
Though only 1km from the
city centre, Acoustic is well
off most foreigners radars.
Come see the Vietnamese
house band play nightly, as
well as performances from
overseas bands and guest
artists.
Th
n
CLOUD 9
LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE

6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong
Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel:
0907 502951
CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS
LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE

224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948
031323
MUSIC BAR / CAFE

39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3.
Tel: (08) 39304075
metallicbar.com
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Showcases a variety of different types of music anything from rock, pop and rap
to Latino as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica,
Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana
and Guns n Roses. Covered
live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music
starts at 8.30pm.
ONTOP BAR
Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba
Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822
4866
Located on the 20th floor
with stunning views of the
city, houses an upscale,
contemporary interior and
an outdoor terrace. A good
venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip
ambience.
CAFES & ICE-CREAM

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BAM SKATE SHOP
Tr
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40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel:
SKATEWEAR / STREET
0903 641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BOO
STREETWEAR
187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3
boo.vn
CRAFTS
& FURNITURE
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District
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District 1
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TEA ROOM
335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3,
Tel: 0169 3583563
operationteavietnam.com
Traverse a wooden bridge
over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000,
in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware
available for purchase.
V
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T
Ng
n
uy
n
Th
Binh Thanh
DISTRICT 3
OPERATION: TEAROOM
(08) 3823 3398
BUDS
ICE-CREAM PARLOUR
Tel: (08) 3932 2778
budsicecream.com.vn
HIDEAWAY
INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building
with an outdoor courwrd,
the ample soft, sofa seat-
ATC FURNITURE
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08)
39326455
SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)
38403946
atc-craft.com
Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living
space of your home? Come
to ATC FURNITURE, you will
find a wide range of moderndesigned products (sofas,
chairs, beds...) manufactured
from eco-friendly materials
(water hyacinth & rattan). Our
outdoor (poly rattan) wickerfurniture range is suited
to your balcony or garden
space. A hanging (hammock)
chair is irresistible for complete relaxation after a long
day at work.
HCMC
SPORTS
REMIX DECO
INDOOR FURNITURE
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com
EAT
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
CRICKET
ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET
CLUB OF SAIGON)
Richard Carrington, Tel:
0909 967 353
richard.carrington@market-edge.asia
eccsaigon.com
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF

SAIGON)
Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228
770 038
deepteshgill@gmail.com
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN

SAIGON)
Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
973 244
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON

CRICKET CLUB)
Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail.
com
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA

CRICKET CLUB)
Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903
998 824
SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM
SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)
Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB)

Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908
200 598
manish@ambrij.com
FOOTBALL
AND
RUGBY
024 or Viet Luu 0909 500

171.
astere@hotmail.fr
SAIGON RAIDERS
Saigonraiders.com
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
saigonrugbyfootballclub@
yahoo.com
SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
SPORTS GENERAL
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS

LEAGUE
thesidl.com
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL

CLUB
saigonshootersnetball.
blogspot.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY
BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
Namsonsteak.com
HIGHWAY 4
NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE
3602 2069
highway4.com
Named after the mountain
highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to
the north, Highway 4 serves
up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does
excellent Son Tinh branded
rice wine.
JOIE DE VIVRE
28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)

7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
WESTERN / FRENCH
292/10, Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066
facebook.com/joie.vn
SQUASH
PHO HOA
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc

Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext 176
TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

436A/33 Ba Thang Hai,
Q10, Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van

Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
gauloisdesaigon.com
XROCK CLIMBING
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON
7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,

Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
Contact Fred on 0919 709
BANH CANH HOANG TY
RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM
AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
3820 7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Open for over a decade, Au
Lac Do Brazil is home to the
city's best Churrasco menu
with a wide variety of meats
from Calabrian sausage
and picanha through to
D-rump steak and smoked
hams. Pioneering the eatas-much-as-you-can theme
in Vietnam, Passadors bring
the meat skewers to your
table, and you, the customer
then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.
Best washed down with red
wine or a Caipirinha or five.
PHO EATERY
260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3829 7943
SHRI
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower,
7274 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
A breezy terrace, indoor
bar and separate dining
room with sweeping views
over central Saigon make
up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought
out and romantic venue,
with excellent food.
SUSHI DINING AOI
SUSHI / SASHIMI
53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh
Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930
0039
sushidiningaoi.com
Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi,
sashimi, and other dishes
such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles
in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set
lunches. Probably the best
sushi in town.
KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS
TIB
HUE / VIETNAMESE
(08) 3829 7242
Tibrestaurant.com.vn
VIET CHAY
VEGAN
Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
vietchay.vn

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY
YOGA
Tel: 0909 648193
michelle@michellelloyd.com
michellelloyd.com
American trained and licensed massage therapist
and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and
massage spaces in Districts
2 and 3. Private and group
yoga classes. Home visits
available.
SAIGON BELLY DANCE
BELLY DANCE
No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do
Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832
9429
saigonbellydance.com
HAIRDRESSERS
YKC HAIR STUDIO

(08) 3829 2791
MEDICAL & DENTAL

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222
starlightdental.net
Longestablished, modern
clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese
dentists. A favourite of the
foreign residential community due to its modern and
effective treatments allied
with extremely reasonable
prices.
AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC

CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
A clinic provides world class
Chiropractic, Physiotherapy
and Foot Care. We specialize
in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee
DANCENTER
53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,
funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
this modern dance studio.
HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER

37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Inspirato.edu.vn
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON

19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids
in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and
saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a
mixture of private and group classes.
PIANO CLASSES
Tel: 01225 636682
morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
SAIGON MOVEMENT
Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com
SAIGON SEAL TEAM

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
SAIGON PONY CLUB

38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Saigonponyclub.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to
16 years and private lessons for children and adults.
Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
TAE KWON DO
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
VINSPACE
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
HCMC
pain, sports injuries, and all
types of foot problems. We
also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome
in children and adult.
INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL

CLINIC
phu my hung
PANORMA FITNESS
L in
V
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Tr
nh
C
Ph
Nguy
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INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS

206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel:
01654 058401 / 01629
546534
cezsaigon@gmail.com
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simply email us on
well try our best
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(08) 3829 2791
ykcspa.com
Ph
YKC SPA
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Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
H Huy Tp
AVEDA HERBAL SPA
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SALONS & SPAS
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Nguyn c C
EASTERN MEDICINE
Tel: (08) 3932 6579
n
uy
Nguyn Vn Linh
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My
Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277
The-crescent.com
Overlooking the Crescent
complexs lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a
gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track
their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash
courts, pool, steam bath and
nutrition bar.
Nguyn
ng Ch
Ng
Linh
CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB
n
uy
Ng
Nguyn Vn
DISTRICT 7
BAKERIES
LAMOUR
BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn
SAVOURE
BAKERY
Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7
SIMRANS
BAKERY
SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908
828552
simrans.sg
BARS & CLUBS

BANANA BAR
EXPAT BAR
SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3282
A downstairs pool table, an
open, street side terrace and
specials on Tiger draft, this
fun but slightly run-down
joint is a local haunt for many
a resident of Saigon South.
PEACHES
CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
0999
Known as the Curry Pub,
this pleasant Saigon South
watering hole mixes the beer
MEDICAL & DENTAL

AMERICAN EYE CENTER
PHU MY HUNG
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE
TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
HOSPITAL
ng
yn
Ch
N gu
INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC

MEDICAL CLINIC

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1
Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908
453 338
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE
& YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL

Tel: (08) 3829 8424
Globally renowned provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare
offers full dental services
in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide
high skilled dental service.
Orthodontics is also available.
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

Tel: (08) 3829 8424
The worlds leading provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7
emergency care. Specialist
care is available in many
fields.
South sets this joint apart.
with all things curry anything from Goan fish curries

to beef rendangs and more.
A popular local haunt.
RUBY SOHO
CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 3900
mekong-creations.org
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen
Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271
7758
mekong-quilts.org
EAT
BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON
INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and
bar on The Crescent with
great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned
international fare, all set in
a contemporary, spacious
environment.
EL GAUCHO
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton
Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413
7355
bellavitafurniture.com
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110; S17 Sky
Garden, Nguyen Van Linh,
Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758
PAN-VIETNAMESE
The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304
MING DYNASTY
LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE

23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 5555
NATHALIES
THE TAVERN
EXPAT & SPORTS BAR

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang
Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
3900
The first bar established in
Saigon South, great food,
great music and loads of
laughs. Has regular live
music nights, theme nights
and a variety of live sports
events to please everybody.
Big screens and outdoor
seating add to the mix, with
BBQs available for parties
and events.
HOANG YEN
Unit CR1-12, The Crescent,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.
THAI / VIETNAMESE
S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 0822
nathaliesrestaurant.com
SCOTT AND BINHS
INTERNATIONAL
15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948
901465
bizuhotel.com/main/pages/
scottbinhs.php
Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this
restaurant boasts a full bar,
ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus
on the creative use of local
ingredients.
VIVA TAPAS BAR & GRILL
GRILL & BAR/ TAPAS

R4-28 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7
facebook.com/VIVATapasBar.pmh
As well as classical Andalusian tapas, VIVA serves up a
selection of original but flavourful dishes for those who
dare to try. A Mediterranean-themed interior and a desire to provide something not
presently available in Saigon
5th Floor, Crescent Plaza,

105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7
Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759
www.americaneyecentervn.
com
American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My
Hung, providing eye care
services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist
with 17 years of experience.
The American-standard
facility is equipped with
state of the art equipments
for the early detection and
treatment of important eye
diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic
eye disease treatments.
Cosmetic procedures such
as eyelid surgery and Botox
injections are also available.
FV HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 3333
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital
whose standard of health
care matches that found
anywhere, with 19 fulltime
French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing
expertise in 30 medical and
surgical areas, especially
maternity care.
HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER
EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,
Tel: 0906 684 969
Ngh Thut Singapore

Chuyn i Gillman Barracks h m b su tp ng kinh ngc nht ca ngh thut
ng i ng Nam . Vit bi Nick Ross. Hnh nh bi Kyle Phanroy
a nhiu, khng ln ht, nhng

lm gim tinh thn ca chng ti
trong chuyn i Singapore. Tuy nhin,
khi chng ti ra khi xe, bu tri xm
xt dng nh bin mt. Chng ti ngy ngt.
Singapore c hng rt nhiu t nhng doanh
tri qun i v pho i trn i c c tu sa
li, nhng chng ti vn cha chun b cho nhng
g chng ti sp thy Gillman Barracks.
c xy dng vo nm 1936 p ng vic
m rng lnh b binh ca Anh, vi khu vc c
lp di s kim sot ca Singapore. Mc d qun
i rt khi cc tin n khu rng ni trong
nhng nm 1990, nhng mi n nm 2012 cc
doanh tri mi c pht trin nh ngy hm nay
mt khng gian ngh thut ng i rng 6,4
ha ti tt.
l ngh thut, kt hp vi kin trc thuc
a kho lo ca thi i cng nh hng cy xanh
bao quanh cho n chng ti khi chng ti xung
xe, lm cho chng ti ngc nhin trn mt, ming
nh thnh ch O.
Tuy nhin, khi chng ti i b xung quanh khu
vc ny phi ni l n rt ln thng thc
ngh thut cng cng v i loanh quanh qua mt
s tc phm ngh thut ca phng trng by ngh
thut ng i s 17, s hng v ca Gillman lm

chng ti sng st. Ti gii du lch, nhng cha
bao gi ti thy mt ni no to ln v trong
mt mi trng dng nh hon ton dnh cho
ngh thut nh th ny.
D n Drive
B su tp u tin chng ti xem l Number One

Lock Road Yeo Workshop. L a con tr tu
ca Hc Vin Sotheby v l mt cu thnh vin
sng lp Galerie 8 Hackney ti London, Yeo
Workshop ca Audrey Yeo l mt trong hai phng
trng by ca Singapore ti tri ngh thut ny.
Tuy nhin, Audrey khng ch c gng tch cc bn
ngh thut c hin ang t chc mt cuc trin
lm ca nm ngh s c gi l Ad Hoc c
cng ang c gng hng ngy thc y ngh thut
n ngi dn Singapore.
Lc chng ti gp c y, c ang lm vic trn
mt d n gi l Drive (artdrive.com.sg), mt l hi
ngh thut cng cng c thit k mng hai nm
k nim Gillman Barracks v Singapore Art Week
(Tun L Ngh Thut Singapore) vo thng Ging
nm 2015. y l l hi vi nhng tc phm ngh
thut ngoi tri nh chng ti s thy khi chng
ti i n khu phc hp.
"D n ny n t mt nhu cu p ng vi
nhng g ang din ra trong Gillman Barracks,"
c gii thch. "Kin thc ngh thut y phong
ph v chng ti c rt nhiu ngh s xung quanh
ang lm vic, nhng khu vc ny khng dnh cho
ngi bnh thng. Singapore c mt khong
cch gia nhng g m ngi ta hiu bit v vn
ha, hoc thm ch lin quan n vn ha. y
l ni Drive tp trung. V vy, ti ngh rng n s
tuyt vi khi lm cho ngh thut y cng dnh
cho tt c mi ngi khc. "
Mc tiu ca Drive l tm kim cc ngh s
to ra cc tc phm ngh thut cng cng c
trng by trn cc bc tng ca tri. iu ny
sau s c lin kt vi cc cuc tn mn ngh
thut l c hi cho mi ngi i b di s
hng dn tham quan ngh thut trong khu
vc cc cuc ni chuyn ca cc ngh s, hi
tho v cc cuc trao i ca cc nh ph bnh ni
ting. D n kt thc vi mt bui l trao gii vo
ngy 23 thng 1.
Tuy nhin, Audrey sn sng tha nhn, vic tm
kim cc ngh s cho d n rt kh khn. Ngh s
Singapore, c cho hay, mun c tr tin. Tuy
nhin, d n nh Drive l mt d n tin phong,
ch hin hu do cc nh ti tr. Khng c li ch
l ngh thut,
kt hp vi kin trc
thuc a kho lo
ca thi i cng
nh hng cy xanh
bao quanh cho n
chng ti khi chng
ti xung xe, lm cho
chng ti ngc nhin
trn mt, ming nh
thnh ch O.
ti chnh trc tip.

"y khng phi l mt iu c li nhun," c
gii thch.
Sun Xun, Pintaldi v Leibovitz
Khi chuyn tn mn tham quan ngh thut ca

chng ti bt u, bu tri sng tr li. Chng ti
tm thy ni tr ma trong mt li i kn o v
gn cc bc tng ca cc phng trng by khc
nhau. Sau , chng ti i vo mt trong cc ta
nh chnh ca khu vc v xem Pearl Lam Gallery.
Chng ti tht s m mn.
Trng by cc tc phm ca mt nhm su
ngh s Trung Quc Lan Zhenghui, Qiu Deshu,
Qin Yufen, Wang Dongling, Wang Tiande v
Zhang Wei t nhin ti pht hin mt loi
ngh thut vi cht lng m ti him khi thy
Vit Nam. C ta The Art of Line: Contemporary
Chinese Ink and Brush (Dng Ngh Thut: C v
Mc Trung Quc ng i), d dng hiu ti sao
Pearl Lam Gallery thu ht ngi mua. S kt hp,
v p huyn b, cc tc phm mc en v trng
kt hp ha hp nhp nhng vi cc cng trnh
mu sc khc. Chng ti ch nh xem mt cht,
nhng ti v nhip nh gia c b ht vo.
Tip theo, Shanghart Gallery cng khng km
phn m hoc, vi b su tp 23 bc ha ca ngh

s ginh c cc gii thng ngi Trung
Quc Sun Xun. V khi chng ti i vo khu phc
hp, cc trin lm khc bt s ch ca ti. Trin
lm Suspended Animations ca Cristiano Pintaldi,
l nhng bc tranh th hin tin trnh khoa hc
y ngc nhin, v nm gn nh i din l cuc
trin lm Annie Leibovitz ti trng by Sundaram
Tagore, cho ti c hi nhn cn cnh cng vic
ca mt nhip nh gia chn dung m c l ti yu
thch.
Chng ti khng chun b cho iu ny
chng ti ch n gin l khng ngh ti. Nhng
chng ti ang b x y vo chnh con ng i
ca mnh. Chng ti c ni khc i vi nhng
th khc xem. May mn thay, chng ti tr
hon hnh trnh ca mnh v quyt nh nn li
thng thc thm ngh thut cng cng. iu
cng lm cho chng ti ngh ngi. Ti c th li
y c ngy v tr li vo ngy tip theo.
Th Trng Ngh Thut
Th trng ngh thut ang pht trin Singapore

to ra khng gian ny. Khng ch ngi Singapore
mi thu thp cc tc phm ngh thut, nhng c
ngi M, , Nht Bn v Php. Mi ngi t khp
mi ni. Thnh Ph S T Bin ny, v c bit

Gillman Barracks, ang tr thnh mt trung tm
ngh thut trong khu vc ng Nam .
Audrey Yeo ng .
"Singapore l mt cng quc t nn chng ti rt
khc so vi nhng phn cn li ca khu vc", c
ni. "Mi ngi bit rng chng ti khng ging
nh Vit Nam hay Indonesia, ni m h c th c
c mt ci g thc s c bit. H hiu rng
c tt c cc loi ngi khc nhau sng y, v
s c tt c cc loi sn phm ngh thut. Bn phi
kh mo him khi sng mt ni nh Vit Nam.
N ging nh ngh thut. Mt s ngi khng
mo him n Jakarta hay Manila. V vy, h
n y chn ra cc tc phm ca h."
bit thm thng tin v Gillman Barracks
v trin lm ca h, xin gh gillmanbarracks.
com. tm hiu thm v cc cuc tho lun v
cc s kin lin quan n tri ngh thut, xin vo
arnoldiiartsclub.com
Hnh nh bi Dave Cumin
Gii ua V i Sng Hoang D

Vit Nam
Gii Marathon Sng Hng ln th by din ra hi u thng 12.
nh nh t gic b ca sng v h b nht

trong lng ngu nhin xut hin khp
ni. Chnh v th, dng ch "Gii ua
V i Sng Hoang D Vit Nam"
c in trn lng nhng chic o ua mu xanh
l v trng. Cc tnh nguyn vin t ho ng
cnh nhng bng rn, hng dn vn ng vin
vi nhng ci vy tay nhit tnh. "Lm tt lm",
h c v. "Bn c th lm iu ... Hy bo v
ng vt hoang d ca Vit Nam!"
Ngy 07/12 cht mt m v trong xanh cho Gii
Marathon Sng Hng. ng t chc bi Red River
Runners (RRR) v Education for Nature Vietnam
(ENV), gii ua nm nay thu ht hn 350 ngi
tham gia t 34 quc gia, chim 32% l ngi Vit
Nam.
c sp xp bi cc tnh nguyn vin ca RRR,
cc chng ua 5km, 10km v 21km c thng
thong qua cc con ph yn bnh ca Ciputra v
dc theo nhng con ng khng yn bnh lm
quanh H Ty. Hp mt mi th by cho bui chy
b x giao 10km, nhm thnh tho nhng con
ng v tm ra cch tt nht trnh giao thng
v nhim hai vn ln nht ca bt k ngi
chy b no H Ni.
"Phn tt nht ca RRR l ngi tham gia", mt
ngi tham gia lu nm ca cu lc b cho bit. "S
rt th v khi gp g nhng ngi thuc cc quc
tch v ngun gc khc nhau, mi ngi n vi
nhau v mt nim vui chung l chy b. Mi ngi
cng u c sc chy khc nhau. V vy, lun lun
c mt ai chy cng hay mt ngi no
rt theo. "
iu ny ng vi cuc ua nm nay, thu ht
mt lot cc sc chy khc nhau.
L Do
Nm 2013, tt c li nhun t gii ua Sng Hng

u dnh cho ENV, mt t chc phi chnh ph ti
H Ni gip nng cao hiu bit v bo v v bo tn
ng vt hoang d. "Nm nay s khng phi ch

cho nhng ngi tham gia vui v hay n thun
chy ua 21km, 10km hay 5km," Pablo Garcia,
ngi qun l Gii Marathon Sng Hng cho bit
trc cuc ua. "Gii Marathon 2014 ny cng
s gp phn quan trng vo vic bo v ng vt
hoang d bng cch gip nng cao nhn thc cc
mi e da n ng vt hoang d ca Vit Nam,
v khuyn khch cng chng khng tiu th cc loi
thc phm hoc thuc lm t ng vt hoang d."
Khi Vit Nam thnh vng pht trin, ham mun
cc sn phm c quyn v sang trng cng s pht
trin, chng hn nh cc sn phm ng vt hoang
d, v nhu cu ngy cng tng ny c mt tc ng
ng k n hot ng bun bn ton cu v trong
nc. Tuy nhin, ENV t tin c th nng cao kin
thc, c bit l trong th h tr, l nn tng gim
hot ng bun bn ng vt hoang d.
"S tin t cuc ua l iu thit yu trong vic
gip chng ta gim nhu cu tiu dng i vi sn
phm ng vt hoang d, tng cng thc thi php
lut, v huy ng s tham gia ca cng chng trong
u tranh chng ti phm ng vt hoang d," cc
nhm truyn thng ENV cho bit.
Hon Thnh
Tuy nhin, vo bui sng bui chy ua, ngh u

tin ca nhiu ngi l phi cn ch. Cho d chy
ua l ginh chin thng, hoc ch cho nhng
kinh nghim, tt c cc vn ng vin dng nh
u vui c v ng vin nhau v thng thc
mt bui sng trong xanh y nng.
Ngi v ch u tin ca Gii Marathon Sng
Hng nm nay l Hugo Page n t Canada. ng
hon thnh 21km trong 1h 21 pht t i, nm pht
trc i th gn nht ca mnh, Samuel Anderson.
Katie Jacobs
bit thm thng tin v Red River Runners, xin
vo redriverrunners.com. ENV c th c tm thy
ti envietnam.org
Ngi Chin Thng

5KM NAM
Hiroki Umeda, Nht Bn, 21 pht 43 giy
5KM N
Gina Pulciani, M, 24 pht 54 giy
10KM NAM
Luke Kenny, Ireland, 38 pht 12 giy
10KM N
Heidi Kay, M, 50 pht 51giy
21KM NAM
Hugo Page, Canada, 1 gi 21 pht 29 giy
21KM N
Kristina Van Dijk, New Zealand, 1 gi 41
pht 23 giy
Gii Phng Bn Thn
17-25
THNG 1
H NI
Dng Gip ang lm ngh thut cho cng chng
L HI V TAY
Khng nn b la bi ci tn, Clap Festival

(L hi V Tay) c th l mt trong nhng l hi
ngh thut phim tuyt vi nht trong nm. c
t chc bi Vin Php ti Vit Nam (IFV), tt c
by loi phim, bao gm: phim ngn, phim ti liu,
phim truyn, video trn internet, scripted reality,
phim truyn hnh v video sng to, s c trnh
chiu trong tm ngy ti L'Espace (24 Trng Tin,
Hon Kim, H Ni).
L kt qu ca s hp tc lin tc gia cc
ngh s Php v Vit, tt c cc bui chiu u
min ph. bit thm thng tin v lch chiu,
xin gh clapfestival.com.
n t Hi Phng, chng sinh vin Du

Lch v Vn Ha 21 tui Dng Gip
nui dng mt th vui tay tri
mt th vui th hin cc quang cnh
bnh thng trong cuc sng hng ngy m du
khch phi quan tm.
D n Let Yourself Go (Gii Phng Bn Thn)
th hin nhng con ngi bnh thng trn vn
trt. Tng l mt phn trung tm ca d n,
tm vn trt gi y mang ngha hn l mt
biu tng.
Gip nhn thy rng cc nhn vt m anh
v nh cc cng nhn v cnh st, nhng ngi
"phi gnh vc gnh nng cng vic, ngn h gii
phng bn thn v tn hng cuc sng," mt s
quan tm mi.
Vn trt, thng c xem nh l tr chi
ca x hi hng ngy, c s dng nh l mt
cng c em li s phn khch, mt cch
lm mi cc con ng thnh ph m thng
l ni lm vic cho ngi lao ng hng ngy.

"N khng phi cho nhng a tr h hng
trn ng ph," anh ni, "nhng cho tt c mi
ngi. V vy, ng ngn ngi trt vn v tn
hng n."
l mt ting khc thng c chng
trai 21 tui lc quan ny nghe c, nhng
l ngun gc ca vn ha trt vn: mt kinh
nghim khng trng lng tuyt vi mi ngy,
ca nhng con ngi bnh thng quen thuc
trn ng i ca bn. V l nhng g Gip hy
vng hng triu ngi Vit Nam c th qu trng.
Lp i lp li trit l ca d n ny, Gip tm
tt: "Vt qua nhng ro cn ca l tr, tn hng
cuc sng, lm nhng g bn mun lm nhng
khng th lm trc y, khng phi lo lng v s
nh gi ca ngi khc, hy lm cho mnh u
tin!" Ed Weinberg
bit thm cc tc phm ngh thut ca
Dng Gip, xin gh behance.net/duonggiap
20
THNG 1
H CH MINH
LOUD MINORITY GII THIU MAC DEMARCO
23
THNG 1
SN ART PHIN 7
Phng Th Nghim Sn Art, chng trnh trm

studio/c tr ngh thut u tin ca Vit
Nam, ang ku gi cc ngh s tham gia cho
phin tip theo, t 1/6 n 1/12 nm ti. Ba
ngh s c la chn s theo ba ngi va
bc vo trm c tr ngh s ngi H Ni
T Minh c, Trn Tun t Hu v Orawan
Arunrak t Bangkok. Ngh s c la chn s

nhn c ch , phng lm vic, qu ti tr
mc 1.000 USD (21 triu ng) v mt ph cp
sinh hot nh.
bit thm thng tin, xin gh san-art.
org/education/how-to-apply-for-san-art-labsession-7. Nhn h s n ht ngy 23/1
Tun m Nhc Quc t Si Gn n v i,

nhng n ch lm cn thm ca bn vi th loi
indie quc t hng nht. Gi y Mac DeMarco
t Canada s xut hin em n cc cm xc
tuyt nh nht, c th l mt cm xc phn khch
trn sn khu. Hy xp m din ny trong danh
sch 'm guitar nhc pop y cm hng' v 'bui
trnh din siu vui c dnh cho mt m th
Ba k l'.
Mac DeMarco biu din ti Cargo Bar 7
Nguyn Tt Thnh, Q4, TP.HCM lc 8 gi ti,
350,000 ng cho v t trc, v 450.000 ng
mua ti ca (gim 100.000 ng cho nhng ai
c th sinh vin). mua v, vo ticketbox.vn
hay Asian Kitchen 185/22 Phm Ng Lo, Q1,
TP.HCM
The final say

THE FINAL SAY
VIETNAM
The Inside
Story of the
Guerrilla War
Chapter 4: Integrated with the Enemy
For the next 12 issues, Word is presenting excerpts from
Wilfred Burchetts seminal account of the American War.
A close friend of Ho Chi Minh, Burchett was the only
westerner to be embedded with the Viet Cong frontlines
in the early 1960s. This work was written in 1964
In the Mekong Delta
It became a standard joke during the latter
phase of my travels to ask from time to time
whether I was in liberated or controlled
territory and, if troops were around, to ask if
they were theirs or yours. On numerous
occasions I stayed in hamlets which were
liberated while on the other side of a river
or strategic highway was another hamlet
belonging to the same village which was
enemy-controlled. In one such case, I
asked the head of the local village committee
if the enemy ever came over to have a look.
Yes, he replied with a broad peasants
grin, in this region we let them send in
a patrol from time to time and even the
district chief may come because officially
they pretend this is their hamlet and we do,
too; in fact they know its ours. They round
up a few local people and threaten them:
We know youre all Viet Cong here. You just
watch your step. Well fix you some day.
But the people say: What can we do if
you abandon us? How can we help it if the
Viet Cong come? Why dont you come back
and have a garrison again?
The district chief can only fume and
rage. He knows very well that if a garrison
is reinstalled, it will be the very people hes
speaking to who will either win the troops
over by propaganda or will wipe out the
post one night. But he dare not play too
tough. He remembers what happened to
his predecessor who was a thorough despot
and murdered many patriots until he was
dealt with himself. He also knows that if his
troops start any rough stuff, most of them
would never leave the hamlet alive. He can
do nothing about that either.
So, living integrated with the enemy
was not only a phrase I was often to hear,
but it was a habit to which I was becoming

accustomed. The situation around the Saigon
area seemed complicated enough, but this
was nothing compared to that in the Mekong
Delta, as explained to me over a map by
Nguyen Huu Tho, the Saigon lawyer who as
President of the National Front of Liberation,
qualifies as Viet Cong No. 1 in Western
press terminology.
He is a mild, professorial person of great
charm, with much of the city-bred, liberal
intellectual about him. When we met for the
first time, deep in a patch of jungle which
had taken me many months of tough travel
on horseback, on foot and by sampan to
reach, it was he who wore the silk shirt and
slacks of a Europeanised Saigon host, and I
who wore the black cottons and rubber-tire
sandals of the Viet Cong.
My mind went back to almost exactly 10
years previously when another Vietnamese
leader had emerged from the jungle
shadows with similar outstretched hands.
A cape thrown over his thin shoulders and
brown cottons of the North Vietnamese
peasants, his famous wispy beard straggling
down from a gaunt face, it was Ho Chi
Minh; the place, the Tay Nguyen jungle of
North Vietnam; the time, the beginning of
the battle of Dien Bien Phu. Six months after
that meeting, I entered Hanoi with the first
units of the victorious Vietnamese Peoples
Army. I mentally noted that I must not ask
President Nguyen Huu Tho if six months
later I would be entering Saigon with the
first units of a victorious Liberation army.
As to my question about the Mekong
Delta, Nguyen Huu Tho showed me how,
for military and administrative purposes, the
Front divides the Mekong Delta into two parts,
Zones 1 and 2, which roughly correspond to

Saigons Fourth Tactical Zone. With the main
channel of the Mekong as the dividing line,
Zone 1 lies to the West, Zone 2 to the East.
In Zone 1, President Tho explained, there
were 368 villages of which only 36 were
completely liberated at the end of March
1964. But these villages comprise 3,200
hamlets of which 2,500 were in Front hands.
In the liberated hamlets lived 2,000,000 of a
total of 3,100,000 inhabitants of Zone I. We
can collect taxes and recruit for our armed
forces in the liberated villages, explained
Nguyen Huu Tho, The enemy cannot touch
our populations and is having increasing
difficulties in trying to collect taxes and
conscripts in the 700 hamlets under his

nominal control.
The situation was similar in Zone 2,
where of 494 villages, a little over 100 were
completely liberated, 91 under Saigon
control and the rest from half to twothirds liberated. Of the total population of
2,700,000, about 1,800,000 lived in liberated
hamlets; another 400,000 in urban centres,
provincial and district capitals, and the
remaining 500,000 in guerilla zones
controlled by the Front at least at night.
This sort of situation is possible only
under conditions of special war which
has to look different from the old type
colonial war, since it has to operate under a
national government and army. The fact

that during the decisive Ap Bac battle, the
villagers of Ap Bac could march off to the
local provincial governor to protest that
their village was being attacked by their
government is another example of the
other side of the medal of the American
special war invention.
In the first resistance war, it would be
impossible to march off to protest to a
provincial governor he was French
and each side mutually accepted the
other as the enemy. That was clear. But
the Ap Bac villagers could protest to the
governor: You represent the government.
Your job is to protect us. Why have you
sent planes and artillery to destroy our

village? We demand compensation for
every house and tree destroyed. I do not
know the results of the Ap Bac protests, but
in very many cases, the population from
liberated villages did extract compensation
for property damage during mopping
up operations and enemy raids. In such
demonstrations people from liberated
and controlled hamlets often took part
together and the local authorities had no
way of distinguishing them.
The pretense that the Saigon regime is
a national government, said Nguyen Huu
Tho, opens up unlimited possibilities for
coordinating military with political struggle.
City Demonstrations
One of the forms of coordinating political
with military struggle, as Nguyen
Huu Tho explained it, was that of mass
demonstrations to thwart enemy military
activity, or to support that of the Front. From
one early spontaneous example, a whole
system was worked out.
Villagers of Trang Bang District of Tay
Ninh Province had been tipped off that
troops were on their way to their village
on a mopping up operation. The whole
population left en masse, old people and
children, everyone with all the belongings
they could carry, driving their pigs and
buffalo ahead of them and poured into the
district centre with 800 buffalo.
They occupied the whole town, paralysed
traffic and at the office of the district chief,
they said: We heard troops are coming to
destroy our village. We dont dare remain
there. You are the government, you must
protect us. Find a place for us to sleep. We
must have rice and food for the children.
The district chief, who always combines
the functions of district military commander,
had to call off the operation and spent the
next few days getting the town cleaned up
from what the pigs and buffalo left behind
them.
Word of this soon spread and similar
actions started to take place on a more
scientific basis. Le Thi Thieu, a dimpled,
peach-skinned young beauty from Ben Tre
Province southwest of Saigon and justly
famed for the beauty of its women is
known throughout the Delta as an efficient
organiser of demonstrations.
After the success at Trang Bang, she
said, we in Ben Tre decided to calculate
the exact space of the streets and squares of
all district centres and even the provincial
capital. It took some time, but we had to

know how many people were needed to fill
up the whole space. Then we could organise
the necessary number from the countryside.
This had to be done carefully, too, so the
exact numbers would arrive from different
directions to be in the town by 5am. The
leaders of each group had to know which
streets and squares they were to occupy.
We arranged things so that every square
yard of space was occupied by our human
sea so the target town would be paralysed
by dawn. In this way it was impossible
to repress us, because troops and police
couldnt move; nothing could move, in fact,
except us.
We organised demonstrations of up to
20,000 people, almost all women, in my
province and neighboring My Tho. If the

authorities were able to call out troops
and they threatened to open fire, we had
special spokeswomen, with high political
consciousness, usually from the Soldiers
Mothers organisation of the first resistance.
A conversation would go like this:
Sons, you could all be my children. My two
lads are in your army! She would pull out a
couple of photos of soldiers in Diemist uniforms.
They look just like you, she would continue.
If you shoot at us, it would be like shooting at
your own mother. You shoot at the young women
behind me, it would be like shooting at your own
wives. Their husbands are also in your army.
Why have we come here? To stop people getting
killed. Maybe your mother is in a village being
bombarded at this very moment. Or your wife
is being raped by Diemist troops. If you dont
believe that such things happen, Ill introduce
you to two soldiers wives from our hamlet who
were raped a few weeks ago.
One particular demonstration Le
Thi Thien described was at the Ben Tre
provincial capital and was to protest the use
of air-sprayed chemicals to destroy crops
and livestock. Villagers carried branches
from fruit trees, leaves from banana palms
withered by the chemicals; dead pigs,
ducks and chickens a real exhibition of
destruction. They hurled them into piles in
front of the troops and shouted:
Look at that. Thats why were here, to
protest about that. We dont carry arms,
weve not come to harm you or cause
trouble. Keep your bullets for the enemies
of the people, for those who are killing your
own mothers and wives. But if you feel
some glory in shooting at us, do so. But in
shooting at us, youll dishonour your own
wives and mothers.
All this has a devastating effect on the
morale of the soldiers who are all peasants
and some of whose wives and mothers
may very well be in the crowd. It is another
aspect of special war which General
Maxwell Taylor probably did not take into
account when he laid down the principle of

using exclusively local troops under a US
command.
Once the war started to go badly these
local troops were wide open to disaffection
and the Fronts chignon battalions as
they were called because of the chignon
style of hairdo favored by the women of the
South exploited this to the full. Saigon
officers were said to be more terrified of the
chignon battalions and their activities
than the Viet Cong proper. Certainly,
desertions made up a high proportion of
Saigons monthly casualties and these were
largely the work of the skilled women
propagandists.
Cannon-Spikers
Apart from those who organise or participate
in the actions at district and provincial
centres, there are in every village groups of
women known as cannon-spikers.
In one cannon-spiking operation I heard
of, the village women and children raced
towards the artillery team as they were
making their preparations, driving pigs and
buffalo ahead of them, carrying chickens
under their arms; within minutes, chickens
were all over cannon and shells, pigs and
buffalo were milling around. Women and
children jammed in around the guns and
squatting on the piles of shells were wailing
and shouting: If youre going to shell our
village, this is the only safe place for us
to be. Such incidents multiplied by the
thousand build up to a terribly effective
politico-military weapon, wielded with
consummate courage and skill.
Every night in some part of South Vietnam
or another, wherever there are Saigon posts
there are hundreds or thousands of girls,
megaphones in hand, seeping around in the
grass or trees around the posts. Whenever
possible the girl at any particular post will
have a relative inside. She starts the evening
programme by chanting a poem, evoking
memories of home and village life. There
may be a couple of shots fired in her general
direction, as the first response. She will call
her relative by name:
Chanh, Chanh, its your cousin Thi Lan.
Why do you shoot? Im only a village girl. I
dont have any arms. I thought you and your
friends must be lonely and bored there, so I
came to chant some poems.
The programme continues with softly
chanted poems and songs, carefully chosen
village tearjerkers.
Then: Chanh, Chanh. Are you listening?
Theres good news from your village. Little
Chi has done very well at school. By the way,
your village has been liberated and a nice bit
of paddy field along the river has been set
aside for you. Some of your friends in the
army, too.
More songs and poems. Chanh, why
dont you give up this dishonourable life,
leave the bad road you are on and come back
to your village. Be on the side of the people,
before it is too late. Why should you get
yourself killed for the Yankees? There may
be more shots at this, but the real shots have

gone home, not only in the mind of Chanh,
but in those of the whole garrison.
The next time he is called out on an
operation, Chanh will be thinking of that bit
of rice field down by the river, bent only on
surviving to sink a plough into it. And very
probably he like 45,000 other Chanhs and
Nguyens in 1963 will slip away one night
to contact the Front forces, either to join them
or to get a pass to return to the bit of rice
land down by the river. The poems outside
the posts never fail to produce deserters,
I was assured by both poem-chanters and
deserters themselves. An incredibly effective
form of special counter-warfare!

Wilfred Burchett was an Australian reporter
often described at the rebel journalist for his
stories about the American War from the other
side. After years of being at odds with the
Australian government, last year the Melbourne
Press Club inducted him into their Hall of Fame.
Burchett was also the journalist who broke the
scoop of the 20th century the devastation
caused by dropping nuclear bombs on Hiroshima
and Nagasaki.
Special thanks to George Burchett for allowing
us to republish this work. Please note that some
place names in this piece have been changed to
reflect their modern-day spelling
The final say
THE FINAL SAY
OPINION
Even the
Toothpaste is Not Real
Authenticity is a concern in todays shopping environment. Well, Niko Savvas
can tell his Prada from his Praduh, but subtler doubts have been eating
away at his existential well-being...
ecently I went to the dentist. She

was nice and wore a white coat, so
I trusted her to poke my teeth with
sharp things. She agreed to poke and
scrape and gouge my teeth until they were
clean, for an escalating fee. If my teeth didnt
take too long to clean, the visit would be quite
cheap.
About an hour later, scarcely able to
contain her glee, the dentist informed me
that she was finished. There was a small
pile of petrified coffee remains on the paper
bib. Very, very dirty, she said, chuckling
like shed just bought new shoes. Do you
brush?
I felt mortified. I brush obsessively at

least six times a day.
And thats when I stopped buying
toothpaste at the convenience store down the
street. Because who knows what is real here,
and what is not?
Locals Shopping Abroad

Pham Van Thoai knows what I mean. Hes
the Vietnamese tourist who made headlines
by breaking down in tears after a Singaporean
shopkeeper cheated him. Mr. Thoai had
travelled to Singapore to purchase an iPhone
6 for his girlfriend, which qualifies him for
Boyfriend of the Year.
Mr. Thoai, a factory worker, drew some

criticism from online commenters who
questioned why he would travel to a foreign
country to purchase such an expensive item.
This is quite unfair Mr. Thoai should
be free to spend his hard earned money
as he sees fit, and his desire to purchase a
guaranteed authentic product is admirable.
Mr. Thoai wanted a genuine iPhone 6, and
so he went to Singapore. There is nothing
wrong with an iPhone 6; it has many excellent
features, including a clock. While clocks and
iPhones are useful, however, there are many
other products just as essential to our health
and well-being. Such as toothpaste.
I would love to purchase my toothpaste

in Singapore. It seems like a nation with
trustworthy dental products. I contacted
Gabriel Kang, who organised an online
fundraiser for Mr. Thoai after he was
scammed. I asked Mr. Kang some questions
about his charitable work, but my real
motivation was to start a dialogue that could
eventually lead to the topic of 100 percent
pure toothpaste, and how I could acquire
some.
Sadly, Mr. Kangs response only directed
me to a link titled: We need to make this
right, send him an iphone6! He informed me
that he did not know Mr. Thoai and had no
contact information for him, so I could not
ask Mr. Thoai about Singaporean toothpaste
either. As a fellow authenticity-enthusiast, his
insight would have been appreciated.
Toothpaste was only the start. If we cannot
have faith in the ooze we use to soothe a
tooth, what can we really believe in? After
I realised that Id been brushing my teeth
with a lie, I began to question all the other
seemingly benign products on our shelves.
Whos to say that shampoo is real? What if
instead of building luscious volume, youre
actually coating your scalp with industrial
runoff? It might smell like lavender, but then
again my toothpaste tasted minty fresh. The
box was sparkly, too. Appearances are often
misleading.
Take these cotton swabs, for example. They
look perfectly ordinary thin little sticks,
tiny white poofs at each end. Harmless,
right? Certainly, until one is lodged halfway

up your ear canal and snaps in half, a
common design flaw of cheap, Chinese-made
cotton swabs. A knockoff cotton swab could
literally kill you, possibly.
I contacted a friend who lives in Singapore
and asked her about cotton swabs. She
assured me that cotton swabs, in her country
at least, were absolutely safe and posed
little risk of injury when used correctly. She
also recommended wetting the cotton swab
slightly before inserting it into the ear, to
reduce the sensation that youre about to stab
your own brain.
A more adventurous person mightve
tried, yet who knows what lurks inside that
box of local off-brand Q-tips? Normally
I wouldve calmed my nerves with a tall
glass of milk, but it occurred to me that
the milk Id just bought had been sitting in
the store on an unrefrigerated pallet for an
indeterminate amount of time. You cannot
trust unrefrigerated milk, no matter what
pseudoscientific explanation is given.
My friend in Singapore said that the milk
there is always kept cold.
Trusting Your Retailers

Losing your confidence as a consumer is
challenging. Once you begin to question the
authenticity of the products you buy, the
world becomes a dark and ominous place.
Even your Nike ir Jordan's lose their shine.
Every trip to the market is fraught with peril;
every afternoon at the mall ends in tears and
broken sunglasses.
A man offers you what might be
a perfectly good Rolex for US$25
(VND525,000), and you turn him down.
Who are you to say if it is genuine or not?
The sock in which he keeps it looks thick
and well-kept, the perfect kind of sock for
holding luxury timepieces. His sales pitch
is flawless, yet you cannot bring yourself to
buy the watch.
Even in the most fashionable designer
boutiques, doubt and paranoia are hiding
behind the mannequins. What looks like an
expensive leather handbag might really be
a pile of cleverly arranged scorpions, ready
to inject you with blood-curdling poison the
instant you pick it up. A silk tie? Perhaps
either that or radioactive barnacles from a
Mekong trawler pressed flat and painted
silver.
I wish that, like Mr. Thoai, I could take a
shopping trip to Singapore, where the only
things buyers must fear are unscrupulous
store owners and their vaguely worded
warranty agreements. But writing pays far
less than factory work, and while he needed
only an iPhone (he even declined to accept
most of the cash and gifts collected on his
behalf, saying he didnt want to take too
much), I need everything.
If anybody in Singapore is reading this,
please send toothpaste.
Authentic Rolexes, non-scorpion-made leather
handbags and lots and lots of toothpaste can be
sent to Niko Savvas, c/o Word offices
The final say
FINAL SAY
NATIONAL
Dead Mall
Malls are a relatively new phenomenon in Vietnam and unlike their dying cousins
worldwide, they still see their glory days being ahead of them.
But, Katie Jacobs asks, do they have the ingredients for lasting success?
ead mall. Sounding like the

name of a new indie-rock band,
it is actually the term used
to describe the phenomenon
afflicting hundreds of shopping malls
across America. Here in Vietnam, however,
the mall scene is surging. As a recent trip
to the new Lotte Center mall in Hanoi
revealed, Hanoians cant get enough of
the glimmering lights, rolling escalators
and omnipresent sales assistants. But do
Vietnamese malls really have it all?
The Hypothesis
When setting out to write this article the
question was clear with a decline in
retail and growing pressure from global
e-commerce, what are local mall investors
doing to fight competition and ensure
profitability? I quickly realised, however,
that understanding the global shopping
mall industry was not nearly so simple,
nor the correlation between rising online
spending and declining in-store shopping
so direct. As I delved into the research it
became clear that not all shopping malls
around the world are in decline (although
many of them are), and just because a
slew of new high-end malls are opening
in Vietnam, it doesnt mean they are all
successful.
So, as Vietnam ventures further into the
development of mall culture, how will
investors ensure profitability in the face of

rising e-commerce?
The Theory of Evolution

Despite eye-catching headlines
proclaiming the Death of the American
Mall (The Guardian, Jun. 14, 2014) and
websites such as deadmall.com, 2014 saw
a resurgence in optimism, with many
economists and retail specialists claiming
the mall will not die.
Shopping malls have long been a
quintessential part of the worlds suburban
culture. From their post-World War II
heyday to the rapidly changing shopping
environment of the past decade these
blocky monuments of shiny consumerism
hold a firm place in suburban life. The
smaller and weaker may be dying out, but
the strong are, as Charles Darwin would
have predicted, evolving and adapting to a
changing environment.
Despite the rise in online shopping, the
majority of consumers worldwide still
visit brick-and-mortar stores to purchase
luxury products. Moreover, anchor
stores large department stores such as
Bloomingdales and Macys continue to
drive the majority of foot traffic. In the US,
anchors are so vital that shopping malls
without them are considered dead.
To ensure the consumers keep coming,
however, developers are re-creating malls
as destinations, not just places to shop.

In addition to the usual movie theatre,
entertainment and lifestyle options such as
expansive gyms, luxury spas and high-end
restaurants are becoming standard.
New malls are more ambitious,
promising a big day out, not just a new
pair of jeans, reported The Economist in
February 2013. Making this model pay,
however, is the challenge one thats
especially relevant in Vietnam. Malls need
to be more than a popular hangout; they
need to keep people coming back and,
most importantly, spending money.
Evaluating E-Commerce
In the past decade, online shopping and
e-commerce have become easier, cheaper
and more secure. Increasing numbers
of consumers are turning away from
brick-and-mortar stores and logging
online to find what they need. Even my
grandmother in rural Australia bought
online recently. Instead of driving to
several stores to find a specific battery for
her vacuum cleaner, she was able to get
exactly what she wanted in minutes. And
it was cheaper.
And slowly but surely, e-commerce
is coming to Vietnam. The Vietnamese
Ministry of Industry and Trades 2013
Index reported that the country is leading
the e-commerce market in Southeast Asia.
While rising wealth

and growing disposable
incomes mean that
consumers are
shopping more than
ever, Vietnams malls
seem to be struggling
to capture this
market
At a Nov. 25 press meeting, Sean

Preston, Visa country manager for
Vietnam, announced that 19 percent of
payments from Vietnamese cardholders
are via e-commerce. A figure that Visa
predicts is set to rise As the internet
and smartphone become an integral part
of daily life for Vietnamese, there will be
a growing trend where consumers spend
more time and money shopping online.
Executives at Vingroup, the countrys
leading property developer and mall
operator, agree. In February 2014 the
company announced the upcoming launch
of VinEcom, an e-commerce website that
will offer a range of products aimed at
consumers throughout Vietnam. In a
recent interview, former VinEcom director
Le Thi Thu Thuy, predicted that annual
e-commerce transactions in Vietnam
may increase to as much as US$15 billion
(VND320 trillion) in the next six years.
In Search of Consumers
Although Vietnamese malls increasingly
incorporate the same destination
environment of entertainment, dining and
accommodation being employed half a
world away, the local market is lacking
the two crucial pillars that have ensured
successful malls abroad remain profitable.
Unlike the US, where consumers still buy
high-end products in-store, the wealthy
Vietnamese shoppers interviewed for

this article insisted that they never shop
in the luxury stores found in many local
malls. Instead, Vietnamese consumers are
increasingly buying luxury brands online
and abroad. Also unlike the US, Vietnam
does not yet have anchor stores to ensure
consumers return to the mall.
While researching this article I met
with acquaintances working in well-paid
office jobs in Hanoi. I already knew from
previous conversations that the women
were keen shoppers, but I was surprised to
learn just how attached they are to online
buying. We probably shop online nearly
everyday, said one of the three young
women whose names are being kept
anonymous, since they all admitted to
shopping during work hours and did not
want to get in trouble with their manager.
I never go to malls to shop, agreed
another, or if I do its only to window
shop.
All agreed that clothes and accessories in
Vietnam were poor quality and overpriced.
We prefer to either shop online for
cheaper clothes or buy luxury items when
we travel abroad, said the third woman,
who confessed to having a weakness for
high-end American fashion brands.
Last year, I visited Royal City in Hanoi
soon after it opened. I remember it clearly
because the place was a mad house. It was
a hot summer day, pouring rain, and the

mall was full of people trying to escape
the weather. The ice-skating rink was
hopping, there were lines for the movie
theatre and I saw more than one group
donning swimsuits on their way into the
underground water park. Restaurants were
crowded and it was impossible to find a
free table for lunch. The shops, however,
were quiet. Of the few people browsing the
racks, even less were purchasing.
Royal City is an ideal shopping,
entertainment and recreational
destination, Vingroups former vicechairwoman Le Thi Thu Thuy said at the
opening in July 2013. Although Vincom
seems to have scored on the entertainment
and recreational front, from observation,
retail is lagging. In theory, while rising
wealth and growing disposable incomes
mean that consumers are shopping more
than ever, Vietnams malls seem to be
struggling to capture this market.
This does not mean that retail stores
in Vietnamese malls are doomed to fail,
but it does mean that investors and mall
designers need to push the bar higher
to create better and brighter without
skimping on quality. The potential is there,
but if they succumb to pitfalls of high
prices and low quality, they risk what I
have come to think of as the indie-band
syndrome Dead Mall.
The last call

Our celestial being of the month is the one and
only Santa Claus, whos been ladling out the
presents and occasionally getting drunk on a
Santa pub crawl since the days when you still
believed in him! Word is here to confirm that hes
real and here he (or she) is, getting real.
Christmas this year... is special my 85th Christmas
since the Coca-Cola Company invented me!
I decided to rest the reindeer and sleigh on
this trip because... Chinese medicine is not on my
shopping list.
My flying motorbike... is under 50cc, so I dont need a

license.
The Christmas lights in Saigon... are all North Poleapproved, elf-strung and catgut-crafted err, theyre fine.
Chimneys in Vietnam... have been out of style since

The Great Saigon Freeze of 1947 (it went down to 15
degrees!). Nowadays, we use air-con ducts.
The most popular presents... are dolls. But let me
tell you, those roadside sellers are really biting into the
business.
The visa issues... are a breeze! The North Pole gets
lumped in with the rest of Northern Europe.
My favourite Santa present requests...

are Wu Tang Clan CDs. The late, great Ol Dirty
Bastard wasnt lying when he said, Wu Tang is
for the children.
The best Christmas visit this year... was

actually pre-Christmas. You might have noticed
me marching along with 150 of our largest elves
through Ho Chi Minh City on Dec. 13, ice-cold
Christmas cheer in hand.
I prefer Christmas to Tet because... it
comes sooner!
But I love Tet because... its a way to
leave up your Christmas decorations for three

months without anyone calling you lazy.
Global warming... will be a good thing for

the Hanoi leg of the trip. But overall, its a
bad, bad thing. Theres a reason that were
loading the sleigh up with bicycles these
days.
If I could change one thing about

Christmas, I would... change its over-
commercialistic, capitocracy-dominated
nature. But heck, its a living!
If my mother could see me now...

shed probably chuckle at the irony of me
judging which children are naughty and
which are nice I got quite a few stockings full
of coal way back when!

Word Vietnam January 2015 FA

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NH XUT BN LAO NG

CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

Hoegaarden Belgium 4.9 ALC

010 / A Letter to the Editor

050 / Lifes Better Barbecued

The roller coaster that is Word

Bringing western BBQ to the masses

011 / The Big Five

052 / The Rise of the

Events to look out for this month

Fast food, WiFi and something called

056 / Mall Rats

A scooter ride for charity

019 / The Science of Video Games

What happens when nerds get together

020 / Dangling the Carrot

Getting street legal

This months cover story took us to

078 / Another Burner in the Wall

Playing archaeologist with Saigon

084 / Festival Season in Vietnam

EAT & DRINK

Vietnams party kids get a taste of the

090 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

Halia Hanoi is stepping it up on Xuan

092 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: Pho Ga

094 / Mystery Diner HCMC

La Bettola seduces with its menu, but

096 / Street Snacker HCMC

On the menu: Bo Kho

Henry Tran makes skate style look

088 / Standpoint Theories

Artistic collaboration hits the next level

The prefecture where Japan breathes

108 / 22.5 Hours in Seoul

Meet Gillman Barrackes, the home of

124 / Travel Promos

4 | Word January 2015 | wordvietnam.com

A former resident returns

114 / Art in Singapore

030 / To-Do List

154 / Coffee Cup

142 / Medical Buff

148 / Business Buff

Chapter 4 of Wilfred Burchetts classic

182 / Even the Toothpaste is Not Real

Nikos having problems... again

184 / Dead Mall

When shoppers stop shopping

188 / The Last Call

We catch up with Santa on his (her) latest

Word - Duong Huynh

Special thanks to David Harris, Glen Riley, Katie Jacobs, Huyen

Seasons greetings from everyone at

CHUYN DU LCH & M THC

Chu trch nhim xut bn:

Thc hin lin kt xut bn:

In n 15.000 cun, kh 20.5 x 27cm

fastest growing. If all

lot it seems like its

CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

his past month

THIS MONTH'S COVER