Word Vietnam March 2015

NH XUT BN LAO NG
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CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

VIETNAM EDITION / TP 3 2015
MARCH 2015
NOT FOR SALE
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contents
wordvietnam.com
MARCH 2015
052
086
048
THE TALK
INSIDER
010 / Meet Fire with Fire
Lunar New Year fireworks
011 / The Big Five
Events to look out for this month
048 / Smile for the Camera
052 / Portraits of Vietnam
Racing to the top of Vietnams tallest

building
014 / The Disciples of Escoffier
The pinnacle of French cuisine
018 / Le Truc to Kim Ma
Easing congestion in the capital. But at

what expense?
PePe La Poule serves up fusion cuisine at

its most unique
Recording the idiosyncrasies of this land

A step back in ethnic minority time
012 / The Vertical Run
114 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
Getting that perfect grin
082 / Into the Highlands
BRIEFINGS
EAT & DRINK
086 / Burning Season
Beyond photographic clichs
094 / The Salt Fields
The Vietnam that few ever see
102/ Preserving the Past
Saigon is losing its heritage
110 / Arsenic in the Water
116 / Street Snacker Hanoi
On the menu: My Van Than
118 / Mystery Diner HCMC
Contemporary yet traditional at San Fu

Lou
120 / Street Snacker HCMC
On the menu: Com Ga Xoi Mo
FASHION
122 / Queens of the Electronic Age
Female DJs take the stand
A case for buying water filters
018
122
contents
128
166
188
168 / The Empty Wok
HCMC
TRAVEL
128 / The Tourist Trap
A day trip to Phuket
172 / Student Eye
026 / To-Do List
176 / A World of Good
155 / HCMC City Guide
HANOI
184 / Tieng Viet
164 / Coffee Cup
036 / To-Do List
166 / Top Eats A
044 / Overscene
FINAL SAY
188 / The Inside Story of the
Guerrilla War
170 / Top Eats B
136 / Hanoi City Guide
COLUMNS
138 / Coffee Cup
Chapter 6 of Wilfred Burchetts classic

account
146 / The Alchemist
140 / Recalling Hanoi
192 / The Last Call
150 / The Therapist
142 / Top Eats
Justin Mott is putting together two unlikely

mediums: photography and reality TV
152 / Medical Buff
145 / Food Promos
154 / Book Buff

142
158 / Business Buff

160 / Job Search
162 / Body and Temple
192
CONTRIBUTORS
For this months cover story, we asked some

of Vietnams best photographers to show
us the beauty they see here. Here are their
Vietnam aesthetics, in one sentence:
BRIAN VU
Vietnamese, 8-year pro

Vietnam is vibrant, full of
energy and extremes.
DEREK MIYAMOTO
American, 3-year pro

Vietnam is hot in every
sense of the word.
LE NGUYEN DUY PHUONG

Vietnam is a safe place but
dangerous, and vice versa.
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
EDITORIAL
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
editor@wordvietnam.com
ED WEINBERG
Deputy Editor
ed@wordvietnam.com
MADS MONSEN
Creative Director
mads@wordvietnam.com
HOA LE
Staff Editor
hoale@wordvietnam.com
KYLE PHANROY
Photo Editor
kyle@wordvietnam.com
DAVID MANN
Staff Editor
david.mann@wordvietnam.com
FRANCIS XAVIER
Staff Reporter
francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com
JULIE VOLA
Staff Photographer
julie@wordvietnam.com
MARK ALLAN
Website & Graphic Designer
mark@wordvietnam.com
NGUYEN LOC
Layout Designer
loc@wordvietnam.com
VU HA KIM VY
Marketing
vy@wordvietnam.com
JON ASPIN
Staff Writer
jon@wordvietnam.com
ADMINISTRATION
NICOLAS CORNET
French, 27-year pro

A long story, made by love
or distance, between quiet
landscapes and crazy cities.
QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY
American, 8-year pro

Hot, loud, dirty and cheap,
usually in the best possible
way.
TRI HUU LUU

So many places to
photograph and so little
time.
BAO ROSS
General Director
bao@wordvietnam.com
TRANG LE
Chief Accountant
trang@wordvietnam.com
ADVERTISING
BAO ROSS
General Director
bao@wordvietnam.com
TRINH BUI
Sales Executive
trinh@wordvietnam.com
CHAU GIANG
Area Sales Manager Hanoi
giang@wordvietnam.com
DISTRIBUTION
trinh@wordvietnam.com
SUBSCRIPTIONS
trang@wordvietnam.com
For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609 689 or Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668
Special thanks to Glen Riley, Trung Del, Katie Jacobs, Huyen Tran, Dana McNairn, Karen Gay,
Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Riccha Arora, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, Family Medical
Practice, Nicola Connolly, Simon Stanley, Owen Salisbury, Harry Hodge, To Thu Phuong, George
Burchett, Rhahn Croquevielle, An Soi, Niko Savvas, Lee Starnes, Nicolas Cornet, Alisher Sharip,
Quinn Ryan Mattingly, Tang Tang, Derek Miyamoto, Brian Vu, Tim Gerard Barker, Dave Perkes, Pieter
Janssen, Tri Huu Luu, Kelly Padgett, Le Nguyen Duy Phuong, Wei Shen Tan, Viet Ha Tran, Vu Minh
Quan, the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology, Nikolaj Svennevig, Thiery Beyne, NOI Pictures, Alex Garel,
Olivier Laude, Myka, Aris Van Calster and Justin Mott
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may be reproduced in
any form without prior
authorisation of the
owners.
VU MINH QUAN

A dreamland for all
photographers.
Word - Duong Huynh

Advertising JSC
*All the portrait photos used here were taken from

the photographers Facebook profiles
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CHUYN DU LCH & M THC

ISBN: 978-604-59-2900-1
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6 | Word March 2015 | wordvietnam.com
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Ba: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
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TT - BTTTT.
In xong v np lu chiu Qy 1 nm 2015.
The prelude
country.
Our photo editor,
Kyle Phanroy,
offered to take on the
task of speaking to
photographers and
compiling content.
Together with our
deputy editor, Ed
Weinberg, he came up
with the idea of cutting
text as a rule were
into words, lots of
them and making
this issue into a coffee
table-style publication.
Only you can tell
us if weve achieved
that. But filling this
months issue with
some stunning photo

essays and the work
of over 20 of the best
Vietnam-connected
photographers, Kyle
has unwittingly
become our first guest
editor. What you
see over the coming
pages is his own very
personal concept of
how to put together a
magazine.
From everyone at
Word, we hope the
Year of the Goat brings
you success, health
and happiness. 2015,
here we come! Nick
Ross, Chief Editor
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

VIETNAM EDITION / TP 3 2015
MARCH 2015
NOT FOR SALE
SP
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asked myself. Toying

with the idea for a
while I decided to put
it on ice.
In October we
started discussing
doing a photo issue
for the month directly
after Tet. Not only
would it reduce the
workload in a short
month we had to
be ready for print by
Feb. 16 this year
but with some solid
planning we would
be able to use Word
to showcase some of
the best photography
being produced in this
PH
OT
OG
RA
PH
Y
ast year a
friend in Hanoi
approached
me with an
idea. You should
hire a guest editor,
maybe once a year,
he explained. That
way you could get
a different take on
your magazine, a
different set of eyes
and ideas, a different
spin.
I immediately
warmed to the
prospect, my only
concern being the
expense. What would
a guest editor cost? I
NH XUT BN LAO NG
THIS MONTH'S COVER

Cover by DH Advertising
Photo by Tang Tang
HAVE YOUR SAY

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS? THEN LET US KNOW ON FACEBOOK FACEBOOK.COM/WORD.VIETNAM OR VIA TWITTER, @WORDVIETNAM.
NO MATTER HOW POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE YOUR THOUGHTS, WE LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU.
inbox
DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US
AT EDITOR@WORDVIETNAM.COM WERE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.
Bia
Burger Wars
(Cover Story, page 56, February

2015)
(Page 94, February 2015)

Selected comments from the
Facebook Group, Foodies in
Hanoi.
Your beer article (The Beer Fridge

Taste Test, page 72) is really
cracking me up, right now KM
Awesome infographics. Did you
buy them or did someone at
Word do them? MJ
One of our team, Vu Ha Kim Vy,
put together the infographics
That article about Belgians and
Belgian beer. Now, that was
naughty. Especially the Smurf
photo AC
cover story
How Beer Saved

Civilisation
ou might remember catchy

headlines like this making their
way around the blogosphere
a few years back. Premised on
evidence that beer was created before
bread, it suggested that early man needed
a psychoactive curveball to get away
from that survival instinct. It led to the
unproductive things we all love, like talking
late into the night, laughing for no good
reason, getting away from group-think all

the things we still look to beer for today.
And as beer in Vietnam has exploded in
popularity consumption has increased
nearly 300 percent countrywide in the past
10 years whats available has become
increasingly complex and varied. But the
basic things that beer gives us have been
here all along.
Over the next 20-or-so pages we look
at Vietnams beer scene in advance of

the biggest beer-drinking occasion of the
calendar year Tet. Its an exciting time
in Vietnams beer history, with more tastes
being represented, and more seeming
possible every day.
Its time for beer to once again do what
beer does best break up the boredom, and
give us all an outlet for toasting the finer
things in life.
Edward Dalton Oh dear! Word

is wrong again... Best burger
in town is mine, because all
pointless token salad has been
replaced by caramelised onions.
Mature cheddar, St Honore bun,
and a lean beef/fatty pork patty
in a 3:1 ratio. butchers block has
been replaced by this fancy new
invention called a plate. I call it
the Match Day Special.
Wayne Hamrick I have a feeling

Dons will be my favorite
once I try it. El Gaucho would
probably be up there too but I
just cant order anything other
than a steak once I step foot in
that place! Tracys would be so
much better if they used proper
cheese. Until then, I cant enjoy
their burgers at all. Daluvas
was excellent and that was from
delivery. I was very surprised.
And Im with Edward as well,
no need for a bunch of salad
on the burger. Lastly, burgers
with eggs on them should be
eliminated from the competition.
Uncertain (Germany or the

United States). Any Germans
on the panel?
Peter Vee En Guim, did you
not read the article? Yep, there
was a German...
Wayne Hamrick Funny
enough the US burger won the
competition. I definitely need
to try it.
Keith Thibert Funny enough
Wayne it took a Canadian to
cook an American burger to be
considered the best
Food
Andy Myers Stirring the pot a

little egg on a hamburger?
Were there no Americans on the
panel judging the hamburgers?
Also Im not a fan of burgers that
you cant get every layer in your
mouth with one bite But as I
said before some of these look
scrumptious and all look good
(minus the egg)! Absolutely have
to try the winner!!
Peter Vee En There were

indeed no Americans on the
panel...
The Criteria
We used the following criteria
to assess the burgers.
Each category was marked out of 10.
The bun
The patty
The sauce
Presentation
Overall taste
Price
Sren Lee Edward why use

lean beef? And then add fatty
pork to make it more juicy?
Sounds weird...
EAT & DRINK
HANOI
Burger Wars
Four expert judges battled lunchtime traffic, salad cravings and m

to taste 10 burgers in two days. David Mann delivers the verdict
dishing up the best beef burgers in Hanoi.
Photos by Julie Vola
here has been much talk recently

about which joint serves up the best
burger in Hanoi. So, we decided
to find out for ourselves and hit 10
restaurants known for the quality of their
make for the chal

Our instruction
give us your best
us two of them, e
Our entrants d
The Judges
P ETER T HE F OODIE N ACKEN
Guim Valls Teruel Hamburger

place of origin (by Wikipedia):
patties-inside-a-bun.
A quick disclaimer. Each restaurant
agreed to join the tasting this certainly
wasnt done blind. And each restaurant was
allowed to choose the burger they would
Tall, German, and armed with

razor sharp taste buds, Nacken
helps run the Foodies in Hanoi
Facebook group which has
accumulated more than 3,600
members since its inception.
Peter has dined in restaurants
from New York to Fiji but
maintains that at heart, Im still
a Hamburg-er.
94 | Word February 2015 | wordvietnam.com
DAVID THE FOOD WRITER MANN

Seasoned food writer, Word staff
editor and self-declared burger
lover.
S OREN T HE B UTCHER N IELSEN
This is one man who knows his

meat. A butcher turned food
production manager turned
hotdog-maker; Soren is the man
with the hottest wieners in town.
Pioneering Hanois first authentic
Danish hotdog stand, hes also
launching a range of authentic
German bratwursts and Italian
sausages.
C YPR
W INE
Few p
much
co-fou
pub, C
mana
impor
wordvietnam.c
the talk
THE TALK
TALK LEAD
Meet Fire with Fire
hen the international press

gave coverage to the Lunar
New Year, Vietnam with its
90 million people only got
one line. South Korea, who celebrate
Seollal, were also brushed to the side.
Instead the stakes all went to China,
Taiwan and Singapore, and something
called the Year of the Sheep. We dont
have sheep in Vietnam.

But as ever this Tet the flower markets
up and down this country packed
themselves to the hilt, the fireworks lit
up the midnight-hour sky, the pagodas
filled with the overpowering smell of too
much incense, and people talked about
luck, health, happiness and money as they
welcomed in The Year of the Goat.
Our creative director, Mads Monsen,

was able to get a lens-eye view of the
fireworks going off behind Saigons
tallest building, The Bitexco Tower. This
year, we believe, should be a good one.
Not just for Ho Chi Minh City, whose
boom has never quite stopped, but for
the whole country.
Fingers crossed.
the big five
18,20,21
MAR.
Hanoi (Mar. 18) + HCMC (Mar. 20-21)

FRANKENSTEIN
In last months Twitter

scare involving a bot who
said I want to kill people,
we again got a vision of a future
run amok. The question the
upcoming TNT Theatre Britain
production of Frankenstein asks
is a timeless one: How much
progress is too much?
In Vietnams finest opera
houses, this question will
once again be given a human
dimension by director Paul
Stebbings who previously
explored this style of serious
Gothic comedy in last years
Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde. So
says the press release, This
powerful work reveals why the
name Frankenstein resonates
18
in the modern
world like few
others... perhaps
our most potent
symbol for our
fear of a future
beyond human
control.
Frankenstein:
The Monster and
the Myth will
be performed at
the Hanoi Opera
House (1 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi) on Mar. 18
at 8pm, and at the Ho Chi Minh
City Opera House (7 Lam Son
Square, Q1, HCMC) on Mar. 20
at 11am and 8pm, and again on
08
Mar. 21 at 8pm. Tickets will be
available for sale at ticketbox.vn.
For more info, email gma@adgeurope.com
APR.
Hanoi
18-19
APR.
Cat Tien National Park
THE VERTICAL RUN TA LAI TROPHY NO. 2
Getting to the top of Landmark

72, the tallest building in Vietnam,
sounds like a grueling affair even
if you just take the elevator. But
for those who are up for testing
their strength (both body and
mind) on Saturday Apr. 18, then
expect the ascent on foot to take
between 15 and 30 minutes. As the
press release states 1,914 steps,
350 metres, 72 floors. Its a long
way to the top.
Now in its third edition, the 500
or so runners who will attempt
this feat will do so under the
spotlight of the worlds media.
Vertical runs are big, so big in fact
that theres a well-established
world circuit.
So, this year we are asking
you, yes you, dear reader, to get
involved and stretch those leg
muscles.
For more information go to
runhanoi.com or see our article on
page 12
In Cat Tien National Park, the

second edition of one of the most
rugged races Vietnam has ever
seen is taking place. There are
two speeds, Challenge and Extreme
with between 38km of course
length and 57km, not to mention
the kayak/swim portion. If youve
got a day-and-a-half to dedicate to
redefining your relationship with
the wild, the Ta Lai Trophy has the

trails, mountains, farmlands and
deep jungles for you.
The Ta Lai Trophy takes place
on Apr. 18 and Apr. 19 at Cat Tien
National Park. Teams of two pay
VND3.2 million per person, which
includes accommodation, meals and
transport. Contact talai-adventure.
vn for more info
APRIL
HCMC
PHARRELL WILLIAMS
Tets just finished, March is

slowly winding into gear
and you can tell that were
clutching at straws when were
about to report a rumour. But
sometimes rumours might quite
be true, especially when you hear
them from the horses mouth (sic).
SUNDAY
HCMC
INTERNATIONAL
WOMENS DAY
Vietnam is lucky enough to have

two Womens Days and just
because youre not expected to
buy flowers for this one doesnt
mean you should just forget
about it!
On Mar. 8 Saigon Outcast
is putting the attention back
where it should be on all
the fun stuff that women
contribute to our world. There
will be live performances of
songs by feminist icons like
Stevie Nicks and Joan Baez, DJs,
workshops, arts and crafts, stalls
selling things, spoken word
performances and speeches,
short films and more. Just like
last time, all proceeds will go to
Little Rose Shelter, a refuge for
young girls who are survivors
of or at risk for abuse and
trafficking in Vietnam.
The International Womens
Day celebration will be an all-day
thing at Saigon Outcast 188/1
Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC.
To find out other ways you can
help Little Rose Shelter, type in
littleroseshelter.wordpress.com
Yes, all being well, singersongwriter, rapper, producer

and fashion designer Pharrell
Williams will be playing
in Saigon in April. As ever,
details are scarce and
were not even able to report
which entity will be shuttling
this icon in. All we can say is
watch this space. Who needs
Shane Filan when you can get
Pharrell?
wordvietnam.com | March 2015 Word | 11
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HANOI
The Hanoi Vertical Run

Vertigo, anyone?
o the uninitiated it sounds like

madness, self-inflicted-pain
madness. Why, after all, would
anyone want to sprint up 1,914
stairs or 72 floors to the top of Vietnams
tallest building?
But says Hanoi Vertical Run organiser
David Shin, theres some logic to this
madness, a reason why this year an expected
500 contestants will sprint, jump, hobble,
crawl and wheeze their way to the top of
Keangnam Towers, Landmark 72.
Most people decide to take part
because of the challenge, he explains,
adding that most contestants take between
15 and 30 minutes to get to the top. The
sport attracts many fitness enthusiasts
looking for new ways to surpass themselves.
Participants are proud to say I have climbed
the tallest tower in my country!
Thats all well and good, but theyre
obviously not in my social circle, propping
up the bar with a Sapporo and dining out on
burgers at Dons and steaks at El Gaucho.
But, continues David, there is even more
reason for people to love what he calls one
of the rare sports that is perfectly adapted to

an urban setting.
Its the ideal challenge for city-dwellers
who are looking for a discipline to do
inside the city, he argues. This is a great
opportunity. Im sure all runners will feel
proud of achieving such a challenge. As
an added bonus, the view from the top of
Landmark 72 is amazing and serves as a
reward in itself.
Get with the Challenge

If unlike me (sorry, Im a cyclist) you are
going to limber up, get off your bar stool and
get yourself in shape for the Hanoi Vertical
Run, then David gives a few salient tips on
what to aim for.
Stair climbers focus most of their energy
on their thighs, he explains. The steady
push-down, pull-up motion keeps the front
and back of your thighs engaged the entire
time you're on the stairs; these are the most
likely areas to feel worn out first.
He then cites the advice of Dr.
Sergio Giulio Roi, the head of the
International Skyrunning Federations
Medical-Scientific Commission
In the beginning, go up one step at a
time and every so often, two at a time. The
technique is quite quick to learn but its
necessary to train at least twice a week, in
aerobic mode.
After a month, you can increase the number
of sessions and do brief repeats. In the final weeks
before the race, keep up your training schedule,
dont taper.
Have at least one days recovery between
each training session. For someone used to
running two to three times a week it shouldnt
be a problem. Its important to understand
that vertical running is a short exercise [like
sprinting].
So, are you going to take the plunge or,
erm, the ascent? Well, the first step is to
enter the event. Simply go to runhanoi.com
and fill in the forms. But dont expect to see
me at the starting line. Unless I can cycle
up, Ill be getting the elevator. Nick Ross
The Hanoi Vertical Run takes place on
Saturday Apr. 18 at Landmark 72 in Keangnam
Tower. Go to runhanoi.com for info. You know
you want to take part. You just know you do!
briefings
BRIEFINGS
VIETNAM
The Disciples
of Escoffier
eorges Auguste Escoffier

was a chef, restaurateur and
culinary writer who popularised
traditional French cooking
methods at the turn of the 19th century.
His legacy today is a society that acts as
a global vanguard of what Vincent Capa
calls French haute cuisine.
A Frenchman and true epicurean
himself, Vincent is the national treasurer
of Les Disciples LEscoffier in Vietnam, an
association in his words about culture,
sharing and transmission. Im lucky
enough to be his guest at the societys 2015
Gala Dinner at the Park Hyatt Saigon,
where my photographer Glen and I have the
gruelling assignment of struggling through
five courses of five-star food and wine.
Chef Sakal Phoeung is the current
president of Escoffier Vietnam and no
stranger to the pages of Word. He concurs
with Vincent.
We are here to help young chefs
in Vietnam, he begins. If they have
potential, we will take care of them,
referring to the regular masterclasses and
competitions that young Vietnamese chefs
have taken part in throughout the region.
Its all part of Escoffiers values of sharing
knowledge and passing on food culture,
predominantly that of France, but with
influences from all over the world.
Tonights menu is a case in point.
Its an embarrassment of riches, with
Norwegian salmon, French style scallop
and Vietnamese sturgeon caviar barely
scratching the surface of the fare on offer.
Despite being cooked by four world-class

chefs Marco Torre, Didier Corlou,
Vincent Leroux and Bertrand Sommereux
its by no means an exclusive club.
However, there are some basic rules. You
must enjoy food and wine, says a smiling
Eric Baudru, executive chef at Pullman
Saigon Centre. If you dont, then maybe
this is not for you.
The Knights Who Say

On the night Eric is among a number of
men and women knighted as a member
of the society, donning a red sash (red for
chefs, blue for gourmands and purple
for service professionals) and pledging in
front of his peers to always live the ideals
of Escoffier. Its an important looking
ceremony to the first timer, but its all done
in great humour, and served with more
than a healthy dose of self-deprecation.
Not to mention some high quality wine.
Among the convivial atmosphere I
caught up with Fabrice Carrasco, a regular
at these events. He summed up what the
association means to him.
It carries a lot of values that are good.
I come here to share the passion and
transmit the value of sharing, enjoying,
taking care of what you eat, who you are
and how you behave. After all, you dont
have to be a musician to enjoy the music!
Well said Fabrice. Jon Aspin
For more information on the LEscoffier
Society in Vietnam click on facebook.com/
saigon.escoffier or head to disciples-escoffierasia.com
Photos by Glen Riley
BRIEFINGS
HCMC
Science Project
Having an art teacher with a graffiti artist
spouse can work to a schools advantage
hey thought this looked like

a hospital or something,
they wanted to liven it up,
says Kris Kotcher about the
pre-mural halls of Australian International
Schools Thu Thiem campus. Now clad in
the bright watercolours of 14 of AISs most
talented art students and Kriss riotous
colour templates and trademark type of
squiggle-lipped, clenched-tooth scientist
that sterile past is hard to imagine.
Kris has worked with some of his wifes
art students before and, as one of Saigons
most active street artists, he was a natural
choice for the task.
They asked me to design a science
mural for this wall the wall currently
being stroked, splattered, livened up and
collaborated on and then teach the kids
how to paint a mural, show them the process

and everything. And then the students are
designing science murals for the rest of the
walls. Theirs will be more specific, like biology,
chemistry... this is like the science corridor.
Hes no stranger to science. We geek out a
little bit on string theory mural possibilities.
And his enthusiasm is infectious.
17-year-old May, painting the outline
around a bubbling beaker, gets introduced
to me as a good artist on her own. My
artwork? she asks, laughing. I dont know
how to describe it to you, but if you see it
you might decide for yourself...
We fist-bump.
Do you like science? I ask her.
I love this. Its so beautiful. Its like
combining two really weird things. Ed
Weinberg
briefings
briefings
IN TRANSITION
HANOI
Le Truc to Kim Ma
As Hanoi modernizes, so does its road layout.
anoi has long had its bottlenecks.

But over the past few years, a
number of changes to the road
system have helped to ease the
fume-infested pain of being stuck in a jam.
One solution has been to build
flyovers. Another has been to get rid of
traffic lights at big junctions and make
traffic turn right for 100m before forcing
a U-turn for any vehicle wishing to turn
left. It has worked. There is a better flow
on streets like Giang Vo, Kim Ma and
Nguyen Chi Thanh.
But in some cases, as in where one-way
Tran Phu narrows into a single lane as it
hits the next thoroughfare of Kim Ma, the

only solution has been to knock down
houses in this case colonial era houses
and widen the road.
Two of these projects have been
finished before Tet, the most notable is the
widening of Tran Phu between Le Truc
and Kim Ma. Costing a reported VND426
billion, the road was finished in January,
with the official opening on Feb. 15.
In a city not built for cars, changing the
infrastructure is painful. But if it makes
the traffic flow, then according to the
powers that be, its worth it.
Even if it means losing some history.
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HCMC
Playing Old
Saigon Monopoly
The idea was simple: get some people interested in Saigons past around a board game
set in that world, and watch them go. Photos by Francis Xavier
y the end of the game, Im pretty sure

everyone hated me. Oh, jokes were
made, quai puns laughed at, barters
arranged in lieu of crazy fines, but I
was the one holding most of the cards.
We were playing 1880 Saigon Monopoly,
a game modeled on the world of colonial
Saigon, and hour four was creeping
in. Architects Thien Huong (Tran Binh
Architects) and Archie Pizzini (HTA+pizzini
Architects) had already gone home.
Historian Tim Doling (historicvietnam.com),
tour guide Stuart Palmer (facebook.com/
stuexplorerclub) and the games creators, D
and T, were still on hand, yawning.
Theres one rule when it comes to playing
board games with friends: dont take the
game more seriously than they do.
Puns x Commentary
Learn from my bad example the purpose
of a game is to have fun, not to accrue
properties like a cold-blooded accountant.
And, when possible, to make jokes whenever
the opportunity comes up:

You cant charge rent, the state that
streets in at the moment. The Duxton
doesnt have any guests Tim, talking
about Rue Charner / present-day Nguyen Hue
I want you to all to know that this is
going towards steeple repairs D, on
collecting 10 piastres from each player, for
maintenance on the Notre-Dame Cathedral
Around Hour 2, it becomes a running
joke how Stuart keeps getting sent to jail
for public drunkenness, avoiding rent fines
he cant afford in the process. He isnt a
landowner, and somehow our capitalist
microcosm has stigmatised him.
Im just a douchebag in this city. Im
just walking around, getting drunk and
disorderlies, going to jail Stuart
Youre the first backpacker D
The neer-do-wells tramp around town,
as the balance of power shifts between Tim
and myself.
Safe as houses funny saying!
Stuart, avoiding my four houses on Rue
Pellerin / present-day Pasteur

This is why all those historical houses
are getting knocked down, because no
ones staying there D, on skipping Tims
1,400 piastre-a-night hotel on Rue Catinat
US$651,280 with inflation
The repartee continues, all through Ds
insolvency, as Stuart is strangely still in
the game. Hes been keeping afloat off
intermittent fees paid on his three quais
the old Saigon version of the railroads, just
with more depravity-seeking sailors we
theorise. This becomes a theme.
You could sell your body to science I
volunteer, as D is faced with a ruinous rent fee
Come and work on the quai! says
Stuart, with pimp-like zeal
Ed Weinberg
For info or to purchase 1880 Saigon
Monopoly, write to 1880saigonmonopoly@
gmail.com. We played the game at 1960s-style
caf La Tamia (38/05 Tran Khac Chan, Q1,
HCMC). No egos were bruised in the playing
of this game
briefings
BRIEFINGS
DANANG
Danang
Fireworks
Competition
In April, a growing tradition explodes
above Central Vietnam
yromaniacs of
Vietnam rejoice the
International Fireworks
Competition will be
held in Danang on Apr. 28 and
29. For two magical days the
beachside city will become a
psychedelic wonderland of
nighttime luminosities and
very, very loud noises.
This years festival is dubbed
Da Nang Symphony of
Colors. Now on a bi-annual
schedule, the 2013 edition
attracted 400,000 visitors
to Danang so heres the
heads up to book hotels early.
According to the website of
Furama Resort, teams from
all five continents will
be represented, including
squads from the United States,
Australia, South Africa, Poland
and Vietnam. Unorthodox
interpretations of geography
aside, it will truly be an
international affair.
The five teams will have
about 20 minutes to delight
and astound the crowds of
domestic and international

tourists expected to attend. The
fireworks competition is not the
only attraction of the weekend
there will also be boat parades,
flower floating and assorted
sporting events. City authorities
have already sought donations
to defray costs associated with
the festival, which have been
estimated at VND36.2 billion
(US$1.7 million).
Since its inception in 2008,
the Danang International
Fireworks Competition has
been one of Southeast Asias
largest fireworks events. The
recent decision to hold the
event every two years came
alongside increased planning
and financing. Hopefully the
added preparation time results
in a spectacular show.
Niko Savvas
For more info on the 2015
Danang International Fireworks
Competition, check danangfireworks.
com/difc-2015. Tickets range from
VND150,000 to VND2 million for
the non-cheap seats
Sports Digest
IN BRIEF
Halftime Events
Showcasing Pop Stars in
V-League
Many soccer clubs in Vietnam
have started to look to pop
stars as a source of inspiration
for both their players and
supporters, according to Tuoi Tre.
The latest team to join the
trend is Dong Thap FC, a
club headquartered in their
namesake province in the
Mekong Delta. Vietnamese
pop singer Bao Thy recently
performed at their Cao Lanh
Stadium, when Dong Thap FC
challenged Sanna Khanh Hoa
in the 2015 Toyota V-League 1,
which is the countrys top-flight
competition. Dong Thap FC
supporters also recently enjoyed
a performance by half-Korean
singer and actress Hari Won.
Hari, born to a South Korean
mother and a Vietnamese father,
sang two songs and inspired
the hosts to beat QNK Quang
Nam 3-0, which was apparent
encouragement for Dong Thap
FC to go on to invite Bao Thy for
their next game.
Funny Business for

Taekwondo Stars at
National Games
Ho Chi Minh City is
investigating its heavily-invested
Taekwondo team after four of
its top athletes played and won
gold medals for other provinces
at the 2014 National Games,
writes Thanh Nien. The team,
considered one of the countrys
strongest, with many athletes
winning medals at international
events, surprisingly ranked fifth
with only one gold medal at
the competition last December.
Several team members, however,
won gold medals for other
provinces, including Nguyen
Quoc Minh, who bagged a gold
for Binh Phuoc. Other players,
Phuoc Dai, Nguyen Bao and
Chi Khanh, won another gold
for Ca Mau after the Ho Chi
Minh City team itself withdrew
at the final round of the team
category. Phan Nguyen Nhu
Khue, director of HCMC Culture
and Sports Department, said he
has instructed the team to report
on accusations that it played for
hire and thus in essence sold
medals at the National Games.
Transsexual Players Ruled

Out for Womens Champs
Transsexual players are not
allowed to participate in the
National Womens Football
Championship, which will kick
off on Mar. 5, according to the
Vietnam Football Federation.
Thanh Nien reported officials
did not say whether there are
any players affected by this
ban, or how many there are.
The 2015 National Womens
Football Championship-Thai
Son Bac Cup will see the
competition of one new team,
Tao Dan from Ho Chi Minh
City, alongside six incumbents.
Seven teams will play each
other in two legs with the first
leg at Ho Chi Minh Citys
Thong Nhat Stadium from Mar.
5 to Mar. 26, and the second leg
at Ha Nams Phu Ly Stadium
from Jun. 21 to Jul. 12. The
champion will be awarded
VND300 million (US$14,050),
1.5 times more than last year.
The runner-up will get VND200
million and the third place
finisher will receive VND150
million. Organisers also grant
other awards, including fairplay team, best goalkeeper,
best player, top scorer and best
referee team.
New Academies to Open

in Vietnam
The NutiFood HAGL Arsenal
JMG Academy is scheduled
to open in soccer-mad Ho Chi
Minh City in June, according
to Vietnam News. The training
model of this institute will be
similar to those in other football
institutes of JMG, which is a
global sports organisation and
training company.
Viettel Sports Centre is also in
on the act, and is in the process
of setting up a football academy
in collaboration with European
giant Borussia Dortmund. The
military unit is home to young
players belonging to different
age groups, ranging from
U11 to U19. They are mainly
coached by former national
team players, including captain
Nguyen Hong Son, striker Dang
Phuong Nam and midfielder
Nguyen Hai Bien. The newlybuilt centre in Hanoi will be
used as Viettel FCs training
and accommodation complex in
the near future. Viettel expects
its club to participate in the
national premier V-League 1 in
2018.
SPORTS DIGEST
NATIONAL
Quidditch
From the sidelines, Harry Hodge sizes up
Vietnams month in sports
uggles beware! Ho
Chi Minh City is
about to get schooled
in the hottest sport
outside Hogwarts Academy.
Harry Potter fans are aware
of Quidditch, first seen in Harry
Potter and the Philosophers Stone,
with the young wizards zipping
around the sky on brooms to
ensure school glory. A version
on land has taken off, so to
speak, although seeing people
running around with brooms can
be a bit of an adjustment for the
uninitiated.
It is affiliated with a larger
Harry Potter fan organisation
called HogwartsVN, of which
Im also the founder, says Alex
Nguyen, who started playing the
sport in earnest while attending
Ohio State University. Im
now captain of GiantsQuid
(not a misprint: Yup, thats
GiantsQuid, a word play
between Giants Quidditch and
Giant Squid, Alex says).
Nguyen says Quidditch

is growing in popularity in
America, but is still a bit of a
mystery to Vietnamese locals,
which means the route to
legitimacy as a sport here is a bit
of an uphill battle.
We have a lot of support and
cheer from international friends
but general skepticism from
Vietnamese fans, she says.
And even some of our rather
cosmopolitan readers might
currently be raising eyebrows.
Alex shakes her head knowingly.
So anyway, Quidditch might
sound like a nerdy joke, she
says. It was. But now it has
become so huge that even people
who dont give a damn about
Harry Potter come play.
And all Harry Potter aside,
just think of it as a sport.
Quidditch HQ is at facebook.
com/HogwartsVietnam. Costs are
VND20,000 for a one-day pass, and
official members can throw down
VND300,000 for uniforms
Busy Month for U23s

Vietnams U23 team is set
to play a friendly match
against Thailand on Mar. 22 in
Bangkok, according to Vietnam
News. The team is also set
for a clash with Indonesia on
Mar. 7 at Thong Nhat Stadium
in Ho Chi Minh City. The
national football squad will
then will fly to Kuala Lumpur
for a continental event, which
will be held from Mar. 27 to
Mar. 31.
Swimmer Vien Aiming

for Olympic Final
Swimmer Nguyen Thi Anh
Vien aims to advance to
the top eight at the Rio de
Janeiro Olympics in 2016,
according to Vietnam News.
Vien officially won her berth
at the games after grabbing
two Standard As at the Asian
Games in South Korea last
October.
At the Incheon
competitions, Vien bagged
two bronze medals in the
womens 400m medley and
200m backstroke events. Vien,
who is training in the US, sees
her most important duty as
winning at the Singapore SEA
Games.
Photos Provided by Alex Nguyen
Golden Ball Nominees

Announced
Athletes Face Tough
Climb Ahead in Hanoi
The Rules
There are three balls. The first is called the Quaffle, which is
thrown through hoops at both ends of the field, like a basketball.
The second is a dodgeball-esque Bludger, played by throwing
it at whoever has the Quaffle; the person who gets hit must drop
the Quaffle. Then theres the Snitch, held by a runner wearing
full yellow who can run out of the field. Each team has three
Chasers to deal with the Quaffle-holder, two Beaters to deal with
the Bludger-tosser, and one Seeker to try and catch the Snitch.
A Quaffle through hoops is a 10-point score. Catching the
Snitch is 30 points. Once the Snitch is caught, the game ends.
Landmark 72, Vietnams

tallest building, will once
again be the site of Vietnams
highest stair climbing race,
the Hanoi Vertical Run.
Participants will have to
climb 1,914 steps on Apr.
18 if they want to cross the
finish line and enjoy the view
at the top of the 350-metretall tower. Race organisers
Sporting Republic are aiming
to attract 500 participants for
all categories.
The list of nominees for

the Golden Ball Award 2014,
which is organised by the Sai
Gon Giai Phong (Liberated
Saigon) newspaper, were
announced last month.
Players from the national
U19 team make up for 10 out
of the 11 male nominees for
the U21 best player award.
Female players will also
be honoured. The
winners will be
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to do list
Ho Chi Minh City
11-14
MAR.
ARIEL DORFMANS DEATH AND

THE MAIDEN
05
THURSDAY
FLAMENCO DANCE CLASS

Back by popular demand, this flamenco
dance class for adults will begin on Mar.
5 at Dancenters Thao Dien studio. Grab
your steady heeled shoes and join the class
every Thursday morning at 9am with Line
Busk Stehr whos danced flamenco in
Seville, Copenhagen and Stockholm. As per
usual, the first class is FREE for everyone,
so check your inhibitions at the door and
come ready to give it your all. If youve been

smart youve picked up your free Dancenter
membership already and can take advantage
of 10 percent off all class cards, workshops
and purchases made in shop. See you there
dancers!
Dancenter is at 53 Nguyen Dang Giai,
Q2, HCMC. For more information go to
dancentervn.com
07,14,21,28
SATURDAYS
The Saigon Players are bringing the drama

with this moral thriller about a woman who
believes that a stranger who comes to her
home is the doctor who tortured and raped her
many years before. First staged in Santiago,
Chile in 1991, the play had its world premiere
at Londons Royal Court Upstairs the same
year, winning Time Out magazines annual
award for best play. Thought provoking and
weighty in subject, this play will be of interest
to IB English students in town, who have it as
part of their syllabus. Break a leg Players.
Tickets are available until Mar. 10 for
VND200,000 at Boomarang Bistro Saigon,
107 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, HCMC (where it will be
performed Mar. 11 and Mar. 12) and La Habana,
6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, HCMC (where it will be
performed Mar. 13 and Mar. 14). You can also make
your reservations by email at saigonplayerstickets@
gmail.com. All shows are at 7pm
22
SUNDAY
OPEN DAY @ SAIGON STAR
SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTIES

Havent dipped your toes in the deep end
yet? Still waiting for the results of that
30-day ab challenge to come through? Stop
being so vain. Saigon Soul Pool Parties are
halfway through their season already, and
theyre still the best place to get wet in Ho
Chi Minh City. Until May 9 you can join 500+
revellers at Splash every Saturday afternoon,
for what we described back in December as
a 12-hour mini festival poolside at the

New World Hotel! So stop worrying about
aesthetics people, your pool party needs
you!
Saigon Soul Pool Parties go from 10am
to 10pm, at the New World Hotels Splash
Bar 76 Le Lai, Q1, HCMC. Admission is
VND150,000 free for hotel guests with
VIP cabanas and towel rentals available
Saigon Star International School is one of

the greenest and most spacious early years/
primary schools in Ho Chi Minh City, and
theyd like to take the opportunity of their
Open Day to show you what the possibilities
are in such a space.
In an area of District 2 less than 15 minutes
from Thao Dien, your kids will be able to get to
know Saigon Star through bouncy castles, water
balls, horse rides, arts and crafts, face-painting,
carnival games and the (teacher) dunking tank.
Food from Babas Kitchen, Zombie BBQ and Al
Frescos will stand alongside candy floss and
Baskin Robbins ice cream.
Saigon Star is in Residential Area No. 5, Thanh
My Loi Ward, Q2, HCMC. Festivities start at
11am and finish at 4pm, and theres free entry
and free transport (by prior arrangement) from
Thao Dien, Saigon Pearl and Phu My Hung. Call
(08) 3742 7827 to make arrangements, or check
saigonstarschool.edu.vn for more info
to do list
28
Ho Chi Minh City
SATURADAY
ONGOING
OPEN DAY @ THE AMERICAN

SCHOOL
Those looking for school options in the city
dont need to look too much further than
The American Schools Open Day at the
end of this month. Famed for developing
academic excellence and strength of
character amongst budding Obamas, you
can RSVP now for student-led tours, a meet
and greet of the teachers, the chance to grill
the administration and a family picnic on
the grass. Theyve also got college planning
information, student council displays and
performances by the music and drama
departments. What more can we say? Oh
yeah, theres an incentive programme for
early enrolment!
The American School is at 172-180 Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2, HCMC or check em out at
tas.edu.vn
EMBRACE YOUR INNER YOGI

Yoga is a powerful medicine apparently a
tool to enhance your everyday level of being. So reads the release we received from
Life Bright, who have been running yoga
practice and training courses for as long as
we can remember in Saigon. Theyve got
some new courses coming up this month,
where theres no actual pressure to get
things right perfect for the likes of us
at Word. Courses include a new Kids Yoga
Certification course on Apr. 4 and Apr. 5,
SAVE
great for teaching those junior yogis among

us who are having trouble fitting in, focusing
and dealing with stress. Theres also a Yoga
for Wellness course beginning on Mar. 21,
a nine-month course run over 10 intensive
weekends for those interested in an in-depth
study of Hatha, meditation and personal
empowerment. Namaste!
For more details and prices check out
suzannevian.com or email Suz at info@
suzannevian.com
05-26
JUL.
The
Date
05
SUMMER RENAISSANCE
APR.
DRAGON DASH ADVENTURE

Looking for more opportunities to get
covered in dirt and bump into a bunch of
man-made objects while running as fast as
you can to high-powered house music? Look
no further than Dragon Dash. Established
by what they say are experts with years of
experience, Dare Vietnam is a company that
focuses on organising sport events for the
adventure lover.
They also say you should take the
opportunity on Apr. 5 to show your mental
and physical strength through various
activities including running, jumping,

climbing and conquering every single
challenge on their five-kilometer race!
We say why the hell not.
An unmissable event for anyone
interested in team camaraderie and well
getting dirty. Do you dare to enter the
Dragons Den?
For more info have a look at their site at
darevietnam.com or email them at info@
darevietnam.com. Group bookings attract a
discount!
Renaissance International School Saigon

is offering a three-week experience of high
school students future at a Los Angelesbased university in the US. From their base
at Occidental College, students will get a
chance to have first-hand experience of
leading US universities like University of
California, University of Southern California
and Claremont College, and explore Los
Angeles with fun trips to Universal Studios,
Disneyland and the Hollywood Walk of Fame.
Total cost for the Renaissance Three-Week
Summer Programme is US$4,975 (VND106.96
million). The total spaces are limited, so contact
Renaissance at admissions@renaissance.edu.
vn, or go to renaissance.edu.vn/index.php/oxysummer-programme-2015 for more information
MICHELIN STAR CHEF XAVIER MATHIEU

VISITS SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA
th
From 17 to 21st March, Michelin Star Chef Xavier Mathieu

from Gordes, France, graces LOlivier Restaurant.
Started cooking since he was 15 years old, Chef Mathieu
is currently working at a one Michelin-starred restaurant
Xavier Mathieu - a temple of gastronomy which combines
originality and tradition of a Mediterranean and seasonally
reinterpreted cooking.
LOlivier Restaurant, Level 2
Emotion set menu for lunch at VND 680,000++
Magnifique set menu for lunch and dinner at VND 1,650,000++
* Except on the 19th of March
Cooking class for limited attendance on 21st March,
starting at 10 AM at VND 850,000++ per person
including lunch
All prices are subject to 10% VAT and 5% service charge.
Avantage Plus members will receive 10% discount on total
bill.
Sofitel Saigon Plaza

17 LE DUAN BOULEVARD - TEL: 08 3824 1555
H2077-FB1@SOFITEL.COM
WWW.SOFITEL.COM
to do list
Ho Chi Minh City
The Month in Vin

VinGallery / VinSpace Art Studio (6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC) and VinSpace Garage (95 Pasteur, Q1, HCMC) are both
part of the VinGallery empire, and this month theyre busier than ever. For more info on any of the following events, head
to vingallery.com
A print by printmaker Donna Clark
Monday 2nd
and five other locations when the Vin

exhibit closes on Mar. 21.
Precious Heritage
Thursday 5th
Hoi An-based Rhahn Croquevielle has

been getting Vietnams ethnic regions on
the map his work appearing in National
Geographic and on a list of the top 10
portrait photographers in the world, where
he placed number four. In his VinGallery
(6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC) debut, hell
show 35 of his soulful works: the old lady
laughing so much she cannot smoke her
pipe, the sadness and strength in a little
girl's eyes and the joy of young lovers
who are now 83 and 91 years old. The
first exhibition of a world tour, hell go to
France, Toronto, San Francisco, London
Mono-Printing
Printmaker Donna Clark is stopping by
VinSpace Art Studio (6 Le Van Mien,
Q2, HCMC) to teach her masterful use of
colour and light to all comers. Learn to use
layers of papers, stencils, ink and a variety
of textures to create a fabulous finished
piece.
Thursday 19th
Paint Like Monet
Monet makes a return to VinSpace Art
Studio (6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC) where

you, the budding artist, can learn to
share his French Impressionist styles for
everyone who still loves iridescent water
lilies. You know his style, now take a page
from his book.
Friday 27th
Trialogue
VinGallery (6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC)
is keeping it fresh with a new exhibit
featuring some of the most prolific graffiti
artists out there, Liar Ben, Holm and Kris
Kotcher. The opening is at 7pm, with
an after party at Saigon Outcast (188/1
Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC) to
follow.
to do list
Ho Chi Minh City
The Month in IDECAF

The French influence is alive at IDECAF, whether its film, classes or a singer-songwriter from Burkina Faso youre looking
for. Shows at 8pm, VND160,000, at 28 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC
Afrobeat and Afrofunk artist, Alif Naaba
Friday 20th
Thursday 26th
The Barefoot Prince
A Classical Tour-de-Force
Alif Naaba has earned his following in his

decade-plus on the international scene.
With a warm voice, smiling spirit and
Afrobeat/Afrofunk-folk sort of rhythm, he
sings about his country and Africa with a
convincing enthusiasm, one that doesnt
make it seem so far away.
Cao Thanh Lan is well-travelled and

studied, through some of the greatest
music halls and piano conservatories in
the world. A versatile pianist with a wide
range of stylistic influences, her repertoire
extends from classical to contemporary
music to interdisciplinary works. Gaining
glory at several national and international

competitions in Europe and in Asia
and winning the Special Prize at the
International Piano Competition in Hanoi in
2010 she has performed in South Korea,
Austria, Germany, Switzerland, Belgium,
Romania and the Netherlands as soloist
and as a chamber musician.
just in
Ho Chi Minh City
International Womens Day

Vietnams flower-craving women have it good with womens days for all seasons. If youve run out of ideas from the first time
around, these guys have you covered
At Equatorial, it will be the men doing the cooking this Women's Day
Sunday 8th
High and Well-Heeled
@ Eon51
eon51.com
So youve bought a flower (or not youre
not cheesy), whats next? How about a
VND1.7 million++ set menu 200 metres off
the ground? Eon51 has one of the best sunsets
in town, and this International Womens Day
theyll also have gifts for all women, and 50
percent off a special ladies cocktail.
Let the Man Do the Work

@ Equatorial
hcm.equatorial.com
Such is the mantra at District 5s Equatorial
this Womens Day in their two restaurants,
Chit Chat Caf and Orientica.
Providing the man a chefs hat, apron
and a recipe put together by the Equatorial
kitchen team, the man will take to one of the
three live cooking stations spread throughout
both restaurants and will cook directly for the
woman he loves (or at least, pretends to love).
Its a cooking class of sorts, an interactive
cooking class. More importantly, its a
different way for men to say to women how
much they really, truly care.
For more info call (08) 3839 7777 ext. 8000
(Chit Chat), ext. 8333 (Orientica) or email dine@
hcm.equatorial.com
celebrates International Womens Day for

a whole week. That means from Mar. 1
to Mar. 8 you can enjoy its spa and food
specials starting with a free 30-minute
facial treatment every time you purchase a
60-minute Swedish or aromatherapy body
massage (VND1.1 million++).
Compliment that with either of two
great value meal packages on Mar. 8 and
youll be one happy girl. Choose from
a 50-percent-off seafood buffet dinner
(VND910,000++) or lunch (VND610,00++)
at Parkview, or Dynastys offer of a free
Birds Nest Soup and fresh flower every
time you order a three-course Dragon
Garoupa (VND1.5 million++). How sweet.
A Week of Womens Day

@ New World Saigon Hotel
saigon.newworldhotels.com
New World loves the ladies so much it
Photo provided by New World Saigon
Covering All Bases

@ Renaissance Riverside Hotel
renaissance-saigon.com
Renaissance is keeping it simple but
classy your favourite style. From
Mar. 2 to Mar. 6, all women dining at the
Riverside Caf or Kabin get a 30 percent
discount on their meals and on Mar. 7
and Mar. 8 theres a 50 percent discount.
As these lunch and dinner buffets start at
VND660,000++ for food only, youll even
get to say that line about being a cheap
date again.
Roses are Red

@ Sheraton
sheratonsaigon.com
Whether you want to go Chinese or hotel
buffet-style, Sheraton has you covered.
Hang with Saigon Cafs craftsmen, and
enjoy fresh seafood, homemade sushi,
oven roasted prime rib with Yorkshire
pudding, steamed live scampi and crab,
foie gras cooked to order, a chocolate
fountain, assorted praline, chocolate
tiramisu and of course a free flow of
house wine. VND1.4 million++.
At Li Bai Restaurant, on offer are
steamed baby lobster, wok-fried king crab
leg with ginger and spring onion, foie
gras cooked to order, macadamia tarts,
chocolate mousse and a baked Mars bar
cheesecake, all in Vietnamese-inflected
comfort. Take advantage of that free
flow of house wine and beer, put that
complimentary rose behind your ear and
eat another dumpling. VND1,280,000++.
DIM TU TAC OPENS ON THE RIVER

Fans of Dim Sum have a new
location to call home, and it
includes a view of the Saigon
harbour. Serving a blend of
authentic Hong Kong and
Shanghai-style delicacies, this
addition to the local restaurant
scene might have you reaching
for your Jackie Chan tapes.
Packed with what they call
the soul of heaven and earth,
head chef Leung Kwong has over
40 years of culinary experience
under his belt, ensuring fans of
authentic dim sum will not be
disappointed. For their opening

the boys are also doing set menus
for a table of 10 (VND2 million),
so theres no excuse not to enjoy
what in their words are rare
moments of leisure in the vibrant
rhythm of urban life.
Dim Tu Tac restaurant is at 5
Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC,
and opens daily from 10am to
10pm (Mondays to Saturdays)
and 9am to 10pm (Sundays and
national holidays). Book your table
on (08) 3826 6668 or email them at
dimtutac@yahoo.com.hk
BROADEN YOUR HORIZONS AT HORIZON

Horizon International Bilingual
School is a private, prestigious
school with campuses in
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
Theyve got a special offer
on the table until the end of
the month for students of all
nationalities from two to 18
years of age. Proud to be the
first-ever bilingual school in
Vietnam, Horizon is offering 10
percent off tuition for the next
academic year when you pay a
quarter up front in March 25
percent off on summer school

programmes.
School principal Mehmet
Vural adds, As educators, it
is our duty to eliminate any
barriers students may face
in acquiring knowledge and
to prepare the best possible
learning environment for
them to achieve and excel
academically and holistically.
Check them out for yourself at
hibsvietnam.com or email them at
info@hibsvietnam.com
to do list
hanoi
04,11,18,25
MAR.
05&28
MAR.
SOLID GROOVE
If youve yet to make it down
to Factory 47, the latest bar to
pump out the tunes in the Old
Quarter, then Wednesday nights
Solid Groove might just be the
opportunity.
Set within the confines of this
industrial-styled watering hole
and DJ space, Solid Groove is DJ
Incognegros take on the best of
Latin, jazz and acid jazz with the
odd original soundtrack think
the likes of Hawaii Five-O

thrown in for fun.
Oh, and if you like your bar
food, Factory 47 has got a thing
about their burgers. Theyve
even complained to us that we
left them out of our Burger Wars
piece back in February. So, best
check em out.
Factory 47 is at 47 Ma May,
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or online at
facebook.com/factory47hanoi
THE ELECTRIC YARD DOGS

Not only are they a well-known
fixture on the Hanoi live music
circuit, but The Electric Yard
Dogs aka Simon Redington, Jez
Hartley and Mike Buscombe, are
also one of the best loved bands
in the capital. And on Thursday
Mar. 5 and Saturday Mar. 28
you can catch them on stage at
Rockstore.
Playing a high energy set
07
07
combining rockabilly, blues and

what they describe as real rock
n roll, the Yard Dogs are not
just crowd pleasers, but quality
musicians to boot. If youve yet to
see them or just love their sets
we at Word certainly do nows
your chance to get your fix.
Rockstore is at 61 Ma May, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi or online at facebook.
com/RockstoreHanoi
SATURDAY
SATURDAY
AWESOME TAPES FROM AFRICA
CAMA ATK and Moon

Gramophone have teamed up
to present a cassette-DJ set on
Saturday Mar. 7 from the highlyin-demand Awesome Tapes From
Africa.
Started by DJ and producer,
Brian Shimkovitz, as a way to
make artifacts available from the
cassette based music economy [he
has] encountered around Africa,
the collection of music rarely
found beyond the borders of
Africa has developed from a blog
into a commercial record label.
As Shimkovitz said in a 2012
interview with Wire, the blog has
led to artists featured on [his]
site, whose music has been freely
downloadable, [gaining] pockets

of fans outside Africa.
Armed with a suitcase full
of highlife, fuji, benga, tsonga
disco, soukous, hip-hop, rhumba
and ethio-soul cassette tapes
sourced on trips travelling across
the African continent, expect
Shimkovitzs DJ set to epitomize
the fun and vibrant spirit at the
heart of any great party.
Awesome Tapes from Africa
will be at CAMA ATK, 73 Mai
Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi on
Mar. 7. Tickets cost VND80,000
(advance) or VND120,000 (on
the door). For more info go to
awesometapes.com or soundcloud.
com/awesometapesfromafrica
IN HONOUR OF TRINH CONG SON

After the success of the album
and her concert Ha Huyen,
well-known singer Giang Trang
will be back with Ha Huyen 2
as she ventures into the world
of Trinh Cong Sons music. The
new album sees Giang Trang
and accompanying musicians
search for the essence of the
late Trinh Cong Son, Vietnams

most influential songwriter.
The performance will take place
at LEspace on Mar. 7 at 8pm.
Tickets are VND160,000 VND
(adults) or VND80,000 (students
and members) and are available
at LEspace, 24 Trang Tien, Hoan
Kiem
07,14,28
MAR.
HOLY CHIC!
Pharaohs Upper in the Lotte
Center in collaboration with
Uber and Nature Republic
Cosmetics will continue their
ladies night on Saturday Mar.
7, 14 and 28.
Ladies will drink free from
10pm to midnight from a select
cocktail menu (three choices
available) while Uber will
sponsor transport home at the
end of the evening for all new
users to a maximum value of
13
VND200,000.
To make the affair even more
attractive, Nature Republic
Cosmetics will hand out gifts,
samples and vouchers for
all women throughout the
evening, while an Evian Spa
voucher will be awarded for
the best female dancer. Time to
get shakin that booty!
Pharaohs Upper is on Floor 63
& 64 of the Lotte Center, Dao Tan,
Cong Vi, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
FRIDAY
CONNECT
To mark the 40th anniversary
of German-Vietnamese
diplomatic relations, the
Goethe-Institut is bringing a
new hip-hop production to
Hanoi on Friday Mar. 13.
Building on their first
collaboration performed back
in 2008, Berlin hip-hop dancer
and choreographer Raphael
Hillebrand and local B-Boy
specialist Khanh Linh Pham are
returning to the stage supported
by dance-media artist Christian
Mio Loclair.
The show adopts S.I.N.E.
choreography, incorporating
elements of light, space and
movement as well as unique
sound technology to provide
a mind-blowing audio-visual
display.
The show takes place at Cong
Nhan Theatre, 42 Trang Tien, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm. Free
tickets are available from Mar. 5 at
the Goethe-Institut Hanoi. Contact
thuha.dang@hanoi.goethe.org
to do list
14
hanoi
19
SATURDAY
THURSDAY
THE TASTE OF FRANCE
QUEER DISCO
Its quite rightly been gaining
a following, and this month
Hanois favourite monthly gay
disco is back on Saturday Mar.
14 at CAMA ATK.
Expect fem-pop, 1980s,
Madonna, Robyn, drag, highheels, glamour, glitter and a

night of body-popping fun.
CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac
De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors
are at 8pm.
21 MAR.
MARCO EFFE
MoTioN, Cocoon Records
and Madake are teaming up
on Saturday Mar. 21 to bring
an audio-visual performance
featuring Italian DJ and
producer, Marco Effe.
Using the self-created
sculptural work of artist and
scenographer Bad GraFX, the
visuals will react and evolve
with the music spinning on the
decks. Turntable time will go
to resident DJ Ali, Maggi and
the nights headliner, Marco
Effe. Now based in Berlin, Effe

has played at the top techno
clubs around the world and is
known for his ability to woo
the crowds with his amusing
and delightful style. Expect
this to be a night that grapples
with the senses in every, erm
sense of the word.
Entrance is VND100,000 and
this is one of those events that kicks
off late. Madake is at 81 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi or online at
facebook.com/madakehanoi
Got de France / Good

France will celebrate French
gastronomy in various
locations worldwide on Mar.
19 including a number of
well-known restaurants in Hanoi
and Hue.
With over 1,300 chefs on all
five continents expected to join
the event, says the press release,
"Special dinners will be served
simultaneously in participating
restaurants to honour the
merits of French cuisine, its
capacity for innovation, and
its values: sharing, enjoying,
and respecting the principles of
high quality, environmentally
responsible cuisine."
Fine words aside, the
restaurants taking part in
Vietnam include:
Caf Lautrec
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang Tien,
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
hoteldelopera.com
Le Beaulieu
Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo
Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
sofitel-legend.com/hanoi/en/
La Chemine
Pullman Hotel, 40 Cat Linh, Dong
Da, Hanoi
pullmanhotels.com
Le Parfum
La Residence Hotel & Spa, 5 Le
Loi, Hu
la-residence-hue.com
For more information on the menus
available at each venue, check directly
with the hotel. Alternatively, for more
information go to goodfrance.com
21 SATURDAY
ALIF NAABA
Visa for Creation winner Alif
Naaba will celebrate the
anniversary of his fourth album,
Yiki (Arise), recorded in 2013
between Kigali, Rwanda and
Paris Ouagadougou, Burkina
Faso at a special concert to be
held at LEspace on Mar. 21.
Steeped in the musical
traditions of West Africa,
Naabas colourful Afro-pop

pulses with polyrhythmic
percussion, harp-like kora
textures, funky bass and guitar
riffs.
Tickets are available at LEspace,
24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
and are priced at VND160,000
or VND80,000 (students and
members). Doors are at 8pm
to do list
hanoi
21 UNTIL MAR.
22
FROM MAR.
DESIGN EXHIBITION
THROUGH THE WINDOW

LEspace will be hosting the work
of artist Duong Thuy Duong
through to Mar. 21.
Entitled Through the Window,
Duong describes her work as what
she sees through her window after
the kids go to school.
I stay at home alone with
a cup of hot coffee in hand,
listening to Rachmaninoff and
looking out the window. It is
a large window overlooking
lush vegetation, the bright sun
of summer, the leaves fall in
26
autumn, the gray and gloomy

sky winter days and on the
fragile and icy space the arrival
of spring.
I like to stay and think like
this. Nothing important, just the
reflections of an ordinary person,
an ordinary woman, an ordinary
mother.
The coffee is cold, the music
has stopped, four seasons pass,
and ... I paint...
LEspace is at 24 Trang Tien, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi
THURSDAY
The first locally focused

product, interior, graphic and
architectural design exhibition
will open at Work Room Four on
Sunday Mar. 22.
Titled Hanoi Design. Now, the
event comprises of a design
showroom that will be open to
public and professionals for a
period of three weeks.
The designs on display have
all been created by artisans and
designers currently working
in Vietnam and fall into the
categories of: product, interior,
architecture and graphic.
The highlight of the event is
the presentation of the Hanoi
Design. Now Awards where
exemplary work and their
creators will be recognised

for raising the bar of quality,
nurturing innovation and
inspiring fellow creators. The
judging panel will seek out the
best on show to receive a variety
of awards.
The exhibition will run from
Mar. 23 to Apr. 9 and will be
open from 10am to 5pm except on
Thursdays where it will be open
until 9pm.
The award ceremony will take
place at 88 Lounge (88 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho) from 7pm on
Thursday Mar. 26. Work Room
Four is at Packexim Building
Tower 1, 24th Floor, Lane 15, An
Duong Vuong, Tay Ho, Hanoi or
online at workroomfour.com
THISQUIETARMY
CAMA ATK will continue to
host Moon Gramophones
night of experimental music,
thisquietarmy, on Thursday
Mar. 26.
Featuring the experimental
guitar-based project of
Montreal-based Eric Quach,
the show will revolve around
improvised drone music fused
with the textural and structural
elements of post-punk,
shoegaze, krautrock, post-rock,
black metal and doom metal.
Described as dark, melodic,

expansive and engaging,
Quachs performances are
mostly presented as a realtime score to hypnotic ethereal
visuals, which he creates
himself for each performance.
Support will come from two
new local Hanoi electronic acts:
Sound Awakener and Glitter
Troff.
CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac
De, Hai Ba Trung. Doors are at
8pm. Entrance TBA
just in
hanoi
SPIRITUAL TOUR TO YEN

TU AND CUA ONG
Starting this Spring, Paradise
Hotels & Cruises will be running
two-day, one-night tours from
Hanoi to the sacred sites of Yen Tu
and Cua Ong, staying at the newly
inaugurated Paradise Suites in
Halong. The luxury hotel built on
Tuan Chau Island allows visitors
the opportunity to spend time at
the sacred spots of Yen Tu and
Cua Ong Temple, visiting historic
relics such as the Bronze Temple
on Van Tuong Mountain and other
breathtaking landscapes.
Says Paradise CEO Nguyen
Cao Son, We believe this
pilgrimage tour will bring guests
the perfect balance between the
quest for spirituality and the
CHULA EXPANDS TO HOI AN AND SAIGON
wish for comfort, enabling a deep

rest for both soul and body.
Isn't it body and soul?
Prices start at VND2.3 million
for adults. For more information,
contact Chinh on 0936 508808 or
Long on 0989 046048
Hanois own JW Marriott Hotel

has been recognised as one of the
best hotels in Vietnam, scooping
a number of awards from both
national and international travel
bodies.
The hotel earned the title of
Best Hotel & Best Convention Hotel
in Vietnam from the International
Hotel Awards, Best of the Best
Award from Robb Report
magazine and a Travelers Choice

2015 Award from Tripadvisor.com.
Speaking about the recent
swathe of accolades, general
manager Bob Fabiano said: It is
wonderful to see recognition
for the effort of our team since the
hotels opening in delivering the
most exceptional experience.
JW Marriott is at 8 Do Duc Duc,
Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi
CHULA shop and send us some

pictures.
Saigon is also now on the
menu courtesy of Vietnam
Designer House (161A Hai Ba
Trung, Q1). Stocking a range
of Chula clothing, the tagline
which comes with this particular
move is, A good excuse to
come more often to the south
and try the delicious food.
For more information on Chula,
click on chulafashion.com
Photos by Trung Del
JW MARRIOTT GETS THE ACCOLADES
Spanish-inspired, Hanoi-based
fashion brand, Chula, has
expanded its operations to the
nether regions of Vietnam. In
other words, somewhere south
of Nam Dinh.
Their first port of call is a
new shop in Hoi An, just in
front of the market and next
to Ong Chua Pagoda at 26
Tran Phu. Say the owners of
Chula, If you are in Hoi An,
dont forget to stop in the new
ON THE SIDEWALK
Feeling the pressure to expand
outside of the Old Quarter,
omnipresent bar owner and
entrepreneur, Luong Van Mao,
has opened his latest bar and
grill, Sidewalk, in West Lake.
Boasting a huge outdoor area
as well as a slightly grungy
section perfect for live music, DJs
and even film nights, like Maos
other businesses, Sidewalk has

an endearing DIY feel to it.
Making it perfect for anyone
looking for something a bit more
down-to-earth in aspirational
West Lake.
Sidewalk is at 199D Nghi Tam,
Tay Ho. For more info, do a search
on Facebook for The Sidewalk
Outdoor Bar & Grill
NEW HANOI HOLISTIC

HEALTH GUIDE OUT
VIETNAM AIRLINES TO FLY TO LONDON HEATHROW
For anyone liking direct flights
to London, but who is fed up
with having to travel to Gatwick,
the citys second airport, well,
some good news.
From Mar. 31, Vietnam
Airlines will begin five direct
weekly services from Hanoi and
Ho Chi Minh City to Londons
Heathrow Airport, the largest
and most accessible airport in

the UK.
As a mark of the importance
Vietnam Airlines places in the
route, rather than running 777s
as it does at present to Gatwick,
Heathrow will be served with
the national carriers new fleet of
787 Dreamliners.
Hold onto your seats!
Perfect for anyone looking

for an alternative take on
health and wellness, a recently
updated Hanoi Holistic Health
Guide has just been released.
Complete with a comprehensive
roster of holistic and wellness
practitioners in Hanoi, this is a
must read for anyone living in
the capital.
To see the latest guide, click on
issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth
overscene hanoi
Gala Reveillon
Photos provided by AUF

The French Embassy put on a gala
in honour of a selection of alumni
Vietnamese students who have studied
overseas in France.
A Night of Clutter
Photos byJulie Vola

Says the CAMA ATK website:
A Night of Open Experimental
Improvised Collaborative Psychedelic
Sounds. Play, Listen, Rock Out.
Need we say more?
Le Soleil + Paolo &

Chi
Photos by Trung Del

After almost two months of shaking their
tail feathers on Nghi Tam, the bar with
the best name in Hanoi finally had their
grand opening. It was packed
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look
Soiree FranCaise
Photosby Trung Del

Courtesy of DJ Phil-Good, last
month Rockstore put on a night of all
things French perfect for a large
Francophone community starved of
good music.
Sidewalk
Photos by Trung Del

Mao, the entrepreneur behind some of
Hanois best-known bars, opened the
doors to his latest offering Sidewalk
Bar & Grill on Nghi Tam
Insider
SMILE FOR THE CAMERA // PORTRAITS OF VIETNAM // INTO THE HIGHLANDS // BURNING SEASON
// THE SALT FIELDS // PRESERVING THE PAST// ARSENIC IN THE WATER // MYSTERY DINER HANOI //
STREET SNACKER HANOI // MYSTERY DINER HCMC // STREET SNACKER HCMC // FASHION // THE
TOURIST TRAP
Kyle Phanroy
W HAT S
HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?
Photography requires patience. I waited for two

years to capture this just right.
insider
Photos on these two pages by Rehahn Croquevielle
INSIDER
NATIONAL
Smile for the Camera

Its the basic commandment of photography: Smile for the camera.
But for photographers Rhahn Croquevielle and An Soi,
this simple interaction is more than tooth-deep.
Words by Ed Weinberg
ust off the bat, the smile

techniques to be described wont
apply to everyone. If youre
getting too many frowns in your
snaps, Ive heard tickling works. If youre
a little bit camera-shy, try saying a word
that ends with an uh sound, like yoga
it will raise the corners of your mouth
naturally.
Now that thats settled, were going
to discuss some pro techniques. Hoi Anbased photographer Rhahn Croquevielle
has a unique technique get these
erstwhile models to cover their mouths.
These photos fall under the category of
happy accident. Rhahn says, First Ive
seen in some photos that they used to

especially women they used to cover
their mouths. I think its because its
elegant, its polite, maybe it was the way
to smile before. To not smile big.
So Ive noticed that. From an artistic
point of view, its nice. You can see the
old hands, the wrinkles... and you can see
the smile in the eyes finally, [because] you
dont see the mouth.
In the future, Rhahn is planning on an
exhibition of these photos under the
title of Hidden Smile. Its funny because it
became like a signature... of course there
are some photographers who have similar
pictures, in Indonesia or in another
country or even in Vietnam. And some

friends [will see the picture] and theyll
say, This is Rhahns picture!
Khong Co Rang?
Rhahn has lived in Vietnam for three
years, even opening his own restaurant
(Enjoy Restaurant at 13 Nguyen Phuc
Chu, Hoi An, with 57 flavours of ice
cream!). During that time, he says, hes
probably put on some weight, and his
Vietnamese friends arent shy about
letting him know. They say, Oh Rhahn,
youre fat now!
He doesnt take it personally.
Vietnamese they are like that, and so I
try to do the same. So when I see the old

lady, with no teeth, I say, Khong co rang?
You dont have teeth?
This is what he said to the old Hmong
woman in rural Mu Cang Chai, Yen Bai
Province, who raised her dyed-purple
hands to her mouth to make for one of
Rhahns most famous photographs.
It was lucky, before, that I didnt see
the purple on the hand, the dye. And I
shot it like that, smiling. I saw that thats
the perfect photo, no need to take more
photos. This is what I want.
The Monkey King
You might have seen An Sois niche-viral

YouTube video Thanh chup anh - Funiest
Vietnamese Photographer - Moonwalk, where
he does what it says on the tin. With the
lush green of Son La Provinces mountains
behind them, a newly-married couple tries
to keep it fresh on hour two or three of
their wedding shoot, while An gives them
some amusement.
In part two of the series, Acrobatic, he
rolls on the ground, at times acrobatically,
at other times just kicking his leg in the air.
About the YouTube videos, An says, It

was a boring shoot. We went to a place far
away, about a few hundred kilometres.
After the long trip, everyone got tired
and bored in the afternoon. The couple
didnt know how to pose, their faces were
just frozen. I didnt know what to do to
make them smile, so I just followed my
feelings.
In part three of the series, Monkey King,
he stands on one leg, wobbling weirdly
and kicking his raised leg in a controlled,
martial arts style. Back in university, he
Provided by An Soi
was in some dancing clubs and workout

classes, but now sometimes I dont even
know what Im doing.
The Voyeurs Dilemma
Its always hard to get people to smile for

pictures. People are not used to being
photographed, An says. They feel weird
when people are just staring at them, they
just cannot naturally smile. Even me. Im a
photographer, but I cannot smile and know
how to pose when being photographed, so I
understand how my clients feel.

But wedding photos are a special case.
There are few other times when nonprofessionals are asked to model for hours
on end.
And An puts more into the dilemma than
just asking people to say cheese. I know its
better to get myself, [the shoot] and the outfits
prepared well in advance. So that I can have
the best confidence and feel more comfortable
to have the best smiles during the shoot.
Every day I practise posing and smiling in
front of the mirror to face my fear, so that I
can overcome the fear [of others]. I think its

the best way.
Rhahn Croquevielles work can be found online
at rehahnphotographer.com. Ho Chi Minh Citys
VinGallery (6 Le Van Mien, Q2) will host an
exhibition of his work featuring Vietnams ethnic
minorities on Mar. 2, called Precious Heritage.
The centrepiece of the exhibit will be a 150cm x
120cm photograph on Kodak Endura paper. A
unique metallic gloss makes it appear like its
almost 3D
An Sois fan page can be found at facebook.com/
pages/Nguyen-Dinh-An/1492021581020066
cover story
Portraits
of Vietnam
T
he pictures youre about to see

are really pretty. Some are black
and white. Others are in colour.
All the pictures are linked to
Vietnam, but youd be hard-pressed to
guess that by looking at them.
When Word photo editor Kyle
Phanroy asked some of Vietnams most
talented photographers to contribute
their work for this issue, he had little
idea what to expect. Photography is an
artful science, like alchemy. Its difficult
to predict exactly what will work.
When it does, though, the results can be
spectacular.
Every good photographer has a
style, says Kyle. A lot of people over
here are really into portraits. But there
are photographers who do abstract
stuff, people who are minimalists.
In illustrating the spirit of Vietnam

with photos, we had a difficult task.
Capturing the essence of a single
moment is hard enough how do you
define an entire country?
Photography is a remarkably open
field. In many ways experience is
irrelevant you can take pictures for 50
years and still be a lousy photographer.
And the most technologically advanced
camera in the world is no match for an
iPhone if its buried in your pocket when
the parade rolls by.
The photographers featured in this
issue arent necessarily the most famous
in Vietnam (though some of them are) or
the longest tenured (though some have
been shooting for decades). However,
theyve demonstrated an ability to
record the idiosyncrasies of this land
to portray, in photographic form, the

moments that make life here unique.
They accomplish the feat in different
ways, but viewed together they present
an interesting composite image of
modern life in Vietnam.
Photography may be the most
accessible of the arts anyone can look
at a picture and instantly feel something.
You dont need a subtle appreciation of
shutter speeds and ISOs to know a great
photo when you see it. You feel a visceral
reaction your chest swells up, your
fingers clench, you squint for a closer
look. You notice a vivid colour, a peculiar
shadow, an indefinable melancholy that
seems to crawl up your fingers from
the page. And you say the same words
everyone says:
Whoa. Cool.
Lee Starnes
Nicolas Cornet Alisher Sharip
American
8 years pro experience
Shot with a Canon 5D Mark II, 24-70, 2.8L
French
Shot with a Mamiya 7 with 80mm lens,
Fuji Provia 120 film
W HAT S
An older man in the town of Tam Coc,

Northern Vietnam. 2014.
W HERE
IS ONE PLACE YOU DREAM TO
PHOTOGRAPH ?
Ha, wow... I guess Im supposed to have

this exotic locale, but honestly, Id love to sit
down with Tom Waits in a smoke-filled bar
and see how it unfolds.
W HAT DO YOU
DON T WORK ?
DO WHEN THINGS JUST
Read more, ask more questions, take more

risks... its the only way to push yourself.
W HAT S
Quang Ninh Province. Halong Bay. People of

Cua Van floating village. Jellyfish hunting.
W HERE
DO YOU PUT YOUR
LENS CAP WHEN SHOOTING ?
I leave the lens cap in the bag.

Out of the bag, the camera should always
be able to shoot, at any time.
W HERE
Uzbekistan / Russia / US / Belarus

2 years pro experience, plus related
experience as a researcher (for a PhD
project on spirit possession in Vietnam), as a
TV reporter and as a journalist
Shot with a Canon 6D and 50mm glass
W HAT S
An interplay between details on the wicker mat

and ghosty silhouettes under the black hole on
the wall, from where they come
and where they disappear.
S OMEONE
ISN T SMILING , AND YOU WANT
TO SHOOT THEM SMILING

PHOTOGRAPH ?
Mother India. [Its] a place I always

want to go back to make one more picture
before she (and I) disappear.
Id say: Please, dont smile!
HOW ?
Quinn Ryan
Mattingly
American
Shot with a Canon 5D II and 35 1.4L lens
W HAT S
A man and his chicken in portrait on a ferry

crossing somewhere in the Mekong.
D ESCRIBE V IETNAM
IN ONE SENTENCE :
Hot, loud, dirty and cheap,

usually in the best possible way.
TANG TANG
Vietnamese
Shot with a Canon
W HAT S
The woman is so beautiful in the ao dai.
AS
A PHOTOGRAPHER , WHAT QUESTIONS
DO NON - PHOTOGS ASK YOU THAT

DRIVE YOU CRAZY ?
Why the models face is dark.
Derek
Miyamoto
American
Shot with a Canon 5DII, 24-70 at 24mm
W HAT S
Vietnamese model Ngan Lieng stops Saigon

traffic between Parkson and Vincom in District 1.
M OST
MEMORABLE PHOTO SHOOT ?
Running around Harajuku, Tokyo, shooting

street fashion portraits on a stopover from SGN
to LAX. People really go for it with their clothing
style in Harajuku, and it was exciting to be
surrounded by people with such visions.
I only had about an hour to shoot, so I
frantically ran around engaging people in
broken, Google-translated Japanese to ask if
I could take their picture. Some werent into the
idea of having a stranger take their picture, but
a lot of people were caught off-guard
by the sight of my two-year-old son riding
on top of my luggage.
Brian Vu
Mads Monsen
Vietnamese
Shot with a Canon Eos M
W HAT S
Rainbow colours contrasted by ambiguity and

harsh lines create for an unpredictable image.
W HAT
TYPE OF MUSIC DO YOU LIKE TO LISTEN
TO WHILE SHOOTING ?
It varies from dance music or something more

patient and slow, depending on the day
and what Im shooting. Lately Ive been
listening to a lot of Foxes in Fiction.
M OST
Its difficult to choose. One of my favourite

photo shoots was shooting my best friend
and collaborator Lindsay in a pool covered
in flowers and paint colour.
Norwegian
25+ years pro experience
Shot with a Nikon
W HAT S
M OST
A peaceful view.
Shooting oil rigs for Petro Vietnam off the coast

of Vung Tau. Did three rigs in one day. We
were lucky to get clearance for takeoff due to
the strong wind. A bit stronger and the shoot
would be delayed.
W HERE
PHOTOGRAPH ?
Antarctica
Tim Gerard
Barker
Australian
Shot with a Canon EOS 5D Mark II and
Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM
(exposure: 1/320th at f/2.8, ISO200)
W HAT S
W HAT S
YOUR GO - TO SHOOTING STANCE ?
W HERE
IS ONE PLACE YOU
A woman shades herself with an umbrella

while working in the rice fields
of Yen Minh, Ha Giang.
Depends on the situation, Im a perfectionist
for dynamic compositional elements and
will get wherever I need to get to to make the
composition work at its best. Sometimes this
means Im lying on the ground, sometimes Im
climbing up a tree. I have a shaky hand
so I always make sure the camera is
supported by as many body parts
as possible to reduce any shake.
DREAM TO PHOTOGRAPH ?
Id love to visit Meghalaya in far east India

and photograph the living tree root bridges
made famous by Timothy Allens images from
the Human Planet series. I met Timothy a few
years ago and his stories of the place have
stayed inside my head since.
Dave Perkes
British
Shot with a Canon 5D Mk2, 70-200 at F4 IS
W HAT S
This shot is of a Vietnamese ding-dong

deal in Hoi An Market.
D ESCRIBE V IETNAM
IN ONE SENTENCE :
Vietnam is a microcosm of the sensual

experiences of Asia, [all] in one country.
W HERE
PHOTOGRAPH ?
I have been living, shooting and bringing

photographers on tours to Cambodia; for over
a decade. I have been living a dream and can
think of nowhere else on this planet Id want
to be.
Pieter Janssen
Glen riley
Dutch
Shot with Canon 10D, 1/13 seconds, F4.5, ISO
800
Canadian
20+ years experience
Shot with a Nikon
W HAT S
A cyclo driver at rest in a soon-to-be-torn-down

apartment block in Saigon
These concrete binoculars represent constant

observance and eternal construction. Despite the
pursuit of progress, old values the conical hat
will not disappear.
W HAT
DO YOU DO WHEN THINGS
JUST DON T WORK ?
I try different approaches and sometimes that

means drastic measures. Stepping out of my
comfort zone is one of them. When I did a photo
tour a few years ago we got caught in a heavy
downpour. Having about eight clients who were
about to get soaked I had to do something quickly.
So I entered someones house, something I
would never have done before. Both the family
and us photographers had a great time when
photographing them.
Luckily this is something you can do in Vietnam.
In any western country I would have been shot.
W HAT S
D ESCRIBE V IETNAM
IN ONE SENTENCE
A photographers paradise that never ceases

to amaze me.
W HAT
DO YOU DO WHEN THINGS
JUST DON T WORK ?
Keep trying until it does. That's the beauty of

shooting digital.
W HAT
LENS DO YOU KEEP ON YOUR
PRIMARY CAMERA BODY ?
Nikon 24mm 2.8
Tri Huu Luu

Vietnamese
Shot with a Canon 5D with 24-105mm lens
W HAT S
Tea pickers are picking tea leaves

in Thai Nguyen Province.
AS
A PHOTOGRAPHER , WHAT QUESTIONS
DO NON - PHOTOGS ASK YOU

THAT DRIVE YOU CRAZY ?
What camera are you using?
W HAT S
YOUR GO - TO SHOOTING STANCE ?
Up-close, respectful and no expectations.
Kelly Padgett
American
15 to 20 years pro experience
Shot with a Canon 5DMKIII, 35mm, F/1.4
W HAT S
W HAT S
YOUR APPROACH ?
Finding hope and light in the midst

of the darkness and chaos of life.
Be kind, be friendly and be respectful to the

people and things around you. If shooting a
person, spend a little time with them, get to
know them.
Le Nguyen
Duy Phuong
Vietnamese
Shot with a Canon 5D Mark II
W HAT S
This photo is [part of] the ongoing

project Holding Water.
M OST
It happened in the lake where I was taking

a photo of children. They sang for me.
Wei Shen Tan

Malaysian
Shot with a Nikon FM2
W HAT S
Portrait of a man by the lake in Mui Ne.

Taken during my first trip to Vietnam
circa 2011 to 2012.
D ESCRIBE V IETNAM
IN ONE SENTENCE :
It's f****** awesome.
Viet Ha Tran
Vietnamese
Shot with a Canon EOS 600D
W HAT S
W HERE
Wisdom tells me I am nothing. Love tells me I

am everything. Between the two
my life flows. Nisargadatta Maharaj
PHOTOGRAPH ?
An abandoned castle in
Poland or Czech Republic.
M OST
The shooting I did for Vogue Italia in April 2014.

It was a very huge shoot with 20 people and
about 24 costumes, I was the art director and
photographer. It was a tough shoot of
12 hours and I didnt have time
to sit down to eat or drink.
Vu Minh Quan
Vietnamese
Shot with a Canon 5D Mark III, lens 16-35 2.8 L
mk2, 70-200 2.8 non-IS, fix 100 2.8 L Macro
W HAT S
Cute child. This picture was taken in the northern

mountains of Vietnam Ha Giang Province.
D ESCRIBE V IETNAM
IN ONE SENTENCE :
A dreamland for all photographers.
insider
INSIDER
NATIONAL
Into the Highlands
An ongoing photographic exhibition at

the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology
in Hanoi documents Vietnams
ethnic minorities as they looked
and lived 60 years ago
hen Jean-Marie
Duchange was
posted to Vietnam,
he brought with him
the full range of photographic
equipment from France
together with two cameras a
Rolleiflex and a Semflex. It was
the early 1950s and he saw an
opportunity, an opportunity
that at the time few others could
grasp.
Working for the Department of
Public Health for Montagnards
in Southern Indochina, his three
years in what is now Central
Vietnam took him to five regions
and put him in contact with

a number of Vietnams ethnic
minorities. Although he was
neither an anthropologist nor
a photographer, he decided
to get involved. Thanks to
his development tanks and an
enlarger from France and the
most important thing a 6x6
[medium format, 56mm x 56mm]
twin-lens reflex camera he
documented what he saw and
the people he worked with.
Born in Saint-Nazaire in
France, Duchange passed away
in 2007. However, thanks to his
daughter and granddaughter,
his legacy lives on. In 2013, 200
negatives were donated to the

Vietnam Museum of Ethnology
as part of the celebrations of 40
years of diplomatic relations
between Vietnam and France.
These photos document the
customs, clothing, hairstyles,
musical instruments, rites and
ceremonies of the montagnards
the French term for the
indigenous peoples of Vietnam.
Where so much information
has been lost, they act as a vital
historical record on the lives of
Vietnams ethnic minorities.
Special thanks to the Vietnam
Museum of Ethnology for allowing
us to reproduce these images
insider
INSIDER
HANOI
Burning Season
Photos provided by Nikolaj Svennevig,
from his series Rice Fields
ts one of those photos that everyone

takes in Vietnam, a photographic clich.
Along with the woman in an ao dai
riding a bicycle and those photos of
smiling children, the archives of Vietnam
vacationers are filled with lush paddy
fields, rice farmers happily culling them.
Only when you see something so starkly
different do you realise what youve been
missing.
Danish photographer, Nikolaj Svennevig,
sees something else in these paddy fields,
under darkening skies.
Though they have their beauty, he
writes, the green paddy fields quickly
become visually trivial to me. But during the
planting and harvest seasons another world

opens up. Seeing whole families cutting,
carrying and threshing with their bare hands
stands in stark contrast to the modern Hanoi
and what I otherwise know from Denmark.
Its like miniature time travel.
The Harvest
Drawn to stories that hold the conflict
between Vietnams cultural richness and
its ascent to a modern developed society,
during last Octobers harvest he visited
some rice fields around Hanoi to observe
what was going on. Armed with two lenses
his EF 35mm f/1.4L and his EF 24-70 f/2.8L
he began to shoot.
Initially I shot without any intentions,

he writes. But going through my files from
the first day in the mud, I was drawn to the
darker images.
While the series is still in progress, there
is some truth to these grim depictions of
harvest season. With Hanois air quality
index in crisis, the incomplete combustions
of the leftover rice straw are a concern.
Pillars of smoke rise from everywhere
throughout the harvest season, writes
Nikolaj, since burning the rice straw seems
to be the only way of disposal.
Its estimated that over 80 percent of
paddy fields are burnt during peak harvest.
This engulfs Hanoi and the surrounding
areas in smoke for up to two months at a
time. With burnings typically taking place in
the late afternoons, falling temperatures aid
the spread of pollutants further afield.
Though smoke and greyness dominates
most of these photos, Nikolaj hints, its not
really the point. It is possible that the style
is pointing more inwards, he writes, rather
than trying to comment on the society or the
people in the pictures.
To see more of Nikolajs work, go to
nikolajsvennevig.dk
INSIDER
NHA TRANG
The Salt Fields
Just north of Nha Trang there is a special place,

one that French photographer Thiery Beyne
discovered on his motorbike.
Words by Nick Ross
f youve spent enough time travelling

Vietnam, you will know what to expect
from the countrys landscape: emerald green
paddy fields, jungle-covered mountains,
yellow-sand beaches, small farms, fishing
villages. The list is endless. Yet like every
country on this planet, Vietnam has its own
unique look, one that you gradually come to
recognise.
But occasionally you come across something
that surprises you. Thats exactly what
happened to Paris-born photographer, Thiery
Beyne, when he stumbled across the salt fields
in Doc Let, just north of Nha Trang.

Taken over a number of visits, the imagery
captured through his lens is in part typical of
Vietnam the conical hats, the facemasks, the
women carrying bamboo poles with baskets.
Yet the setting is so unique that his photos take
on a whole new resonance. As Beyne points
out, Nobody knows about the salt fields
except the inhabitants of this region and some
photographers. I wanted to show that there
are other businesses in Vietnam, trades that we
can not imagine.
Working in extreme heat the
temperatures here often rise to 40oC the salt

workers arrive at sunrise to mine and collect
salt. Conditions are harsh and, says Beyne,
working for months on end, feet and hands in
salt, cant be very good for them.
And yet the women are always smiling,
always telling jokes. They approach you with
kindness, and are happy to be photographed.
The people of this region are very poor
working in the salt fields is womens work.
The men do the fishing.
Based in Nha Trang for five years, Beyne
has been photographing Vietnam for well over
a decade. His images are presently being put

together in a trilogy of works called Spirit of
Vietnam. The first in the series, Femmes Women,
which contains striking photos of Vietnamese
women in a range of guises and locations, was
published at the end of last year.
For more information on Femmes Women,
message Thiery Beyne on facebook.com/thiery.
beyne. Beynes images were provided by the
Vietnam-based photo agency, NOI pictures. For
more information or to see their stock images of
Vietnam and Southeast Asia, click on images.
noipictures.com
Struggling with its colour scheme: The Central Post Office in Saigon
INSIDER
HCMC
Preserving the Past

Much of Old Saigon is disappearing, and fast.
Alex Garel is documenting what is still left
The semi-destroyed, colonial-era building at 213 Dong Khoi
evelopment has many pros, but it

also has its cons. And in Saigon it
means the destruction of the city
that was once called the Paris of the
Orient, the Pearl of the Far East.
For Paris-born photographer Alex Garel,
the gradual disappearance of many of the
citys most historic buildings is painful.
So painful that hes decided to document
them, and capture them through his lens
before they are razed to the ground.
[People only think about] money

today, he says. They erase old houses
just to build a new building. And the
architecture is not good. They dont think
about the old architecture or mixing new
with old. They just think short term and
about making money.
For the Record

He started his project in October 2013,
shooting in HDR with a 17mm 1.4F
A view of downtown Saigon from Thu Thiem on the other side of the river
The back side of a French-built bank in the heart of the city
tilt-shift lens. After Tet he will start

working on a book together with historian
Tim Doling, covering not only District 1,
but the outlying areas of the city.
For his knowledge and understanding
of history, Doling will be working on the
text, while Alex is working on the photos.
In his attempts to get the perfect shot hes
often been hampered by the weather
and the pollution.
During the rainy season, I could only
schedule one or two hours a day for

shooting, which was pretty short, he
explains. Now [that] the good weather
has come, its better. But its a bit foggy
right now, so I cannot shoot. When its
foggy I do inside shots, and when its not I
do outside.
Hes also had issues with getting access
to buildings, most notably the structure
that once stood at 213 Dong Khoi.
I tried by every way possible to get
inside, he recalls. But they didnt allow

me. They wouldnt even communicate
with me about this. I had to go in when
they closed the doors.
He adds: Im trying to get the
maximum information, the maximum
amount of photographs now, because Im
sure in one or two years, a lot of these
places will disappear.
To see more of Alexs photos go to instagram.
com/saigonsnaps
The original staircase inside a colonial-era building
Despite renovation and reconstruction elsewhere, this early 20th-century bridge remains intact
Saigon train station at night
A view of the city from up on high in District 4
insider
INSIDER
HANOI
Arsenic in the Water

Nothing gets a headline like a health crisis. After a study made international
headlines in 2013, Katie Jacobs followed up with the author
to see how the apocalypse is coming along.
cience books are stacked in a

bookcase, posters decorate the walls,
and rows of desks face towards the
blackboard. Im back at university.
Well not exactly, but listening to a professor
explain about the chemical and geological
composition of the ground around Hanoi
is certainly bringing back memories of my
university Geomorphology class although
if my professors were as concise and
enthusiastic as Professor Pham Hung Viet,
my grades would have probably been better.
Professor Viet is the director of the
Research Centre for Environmental
Technology and Sustainable Development
(CETASD) at Vietnam National University.
And in recent years, his research on
arsenic contamination in water has gained
international attention.
A Study in Arsenic
This all sounds pretty scary, but what
actually is arsenic? Its usually associated
with old-fashioned mystery novels it was
Mr. Mustard, in the kitchen, with the flagon of
arsenic! but what is it doing in our water?
Lets start at the beginning. Arsenic is a
metalloid element that occurs naturally in
the earths crust. It is also highly toxic, has
no smell or taste and is a common ingredient
in pesticides and fertilisers, most famously

rat poison. This makes it a convenient
murder weapon in many Agatha Christie
mysteries. In concentrated doses arsenic
is lethal, but even in relatively small doses
(Vietnams legal limit is in line with WHO
standards at 10 g/L, or 0.01mg/L) arsenic
causes a myriad of symptoms such as
vomiting, diarrhoea, cramping, hair loss and
nail pigmentation.
Arsenic is distributed in soil throughout
the world. Thus, the potential for natural
arsenic contamination in groundwater is
virtually universal. The conditions, however,
need to be perfect for this to actually
happen. For arsenic to leave the bedrock, a
balance of iron, micro-bacteria and organic
matter needs to be created. In this perfect
environment, the arsenic and iron will bind
together and when they come into contact
with the micro-bacteria they start to reduce
(leach) into the aquifer.
Organic matter is vital to feed the microbacteria and so, arsenic contamination
usually occurs in what is known as the
Holocene layer, 30 to 60 metres below the
surface (11,700 years ago to present), where
organic matter is still present. When wells
are dug by water factories they dig 90 to
150 metres below the surface and into the
Pleistocene layer (2,588,000 to 11,700 years

ago) where there is no organic matter
remaining, thus no micro-organisms. As a
result, the iron and arsenic cannot leach into
the aquifer.
That is unless there is a break in the
clay barrier separating the Holocene and
Pleistocene layers, but more on that later.
The Case of the Himalayan

Sediment
In the 1990s, Bangladesh was rocked
by a series of studies that found that
hundreds of village wells dug to curb
the high levels of waterborne disease
carried in polluted surface water were
contaminated with arsenic. Studies
showed that the Holocene layer of soil
contained high levels of iron ores bound
with arsenic, which had been transported
via river sediment from the Himalayan
mountain range.
As this news was coming to light,
Professor Viet realised that if the Ganges
Delta contained high levels of arsenic from
the Himalayas, then so too could the Red
River and Mekong Deltas. This whole area
shares similar hydro-geology, he explains.
Sitting in my Hanoi study, the Himalayas
seem a very long way away. But for
ARSENIC FACTS
naturally in the earths crust. It is also highly toxic, has no

smell or taste and is a common ingredient in pesticides and
fertilisers, most famously rat poison
ASSOCIATED HEALTH RISKS
GROUNDWATER ARSENIC
BUILDUP REQUIRES TWO
INGREDIENTS:
A mineral
source of arsenic
ARSENIC is a metalloid element that occurs
Repeated consumption of arsenic in

even small doses can lead to:
VOMITING
DIARRHOEA
CRAMPS
HAIR LOSS
NAIL PIGMENTATION
Slow-moving,
alkaline, anoxic water
As
PROBABILITY OF ARSENIC LEVELS
A lower likelihood of high arsenic correlates with:

26
Fe
High iron levels
Public water
Low 0%
Heavy rainfall
High 100%
THE ARSENIC CYCLE
As-contaminated
irrigation water
Arsenical
herbicides
and
pesticides
Human exposure
to arsenic
Atmospheric
precipitation
As-contaminated
food grain
As-contaminated
drinking water
As-contaminated
milk / meat
Volatile arsenic
Straw
burning
As-contaminated
rice straw
Shallow tube well
Hand tube well

As
Miner
Weathering
Soil solution
arsenic
Co-precipitation
As
As
As
Sorption on organomineral colloids
Hydrous Fe,
Mn, Al oxides
Arsenic-contaminated groundwater
Source: scialert.net
Supplying urban centres with safe drinking water is a challenge

faced around the world. In order to ensure Hanoi moves towards
a sustainable and healthy solution to this issue, more emphasis
is needed on keeping surface water clean
hundreds of thousands of years, the rich
soils travelling all the way from the
Himalayas, collecting further nutrients on
their journey, have been deposited here
resulting in lush agricultural land, full
of nutrients and minerals. When Emperor
Ly Thai To first moved his capital city here
one thousand years ago, the nutrient rich
soil and plentiful water supply attracted
him to the area. Unfortunately, those
same properties also create the perfect
environment for arsenic to leach into the
ground water.
Scene of the Crime

Professor Viets study on arsenic in Hanois
groundwater began in 1998, when CETASD
partnered with colleagues from the Swiss
Federal Insitute for Aquatic Science and
Technology (EAWAG) to test water around
the city. The results were alarming, and
highly variable.
While areas to the north of the city
showed very little trace of arsenic, it was a
different story in the nutrient rich soils to the
south. Professor Viet and his team zeroed in
on the fishing village of Van Phuc, close to
the banks of the Red River in Hoang Mai,
where high arsenic levels had been recorded.
The immediate concern was for the people
living in the area, who dug shallow wells
directly into the contaminated Holocene
aquifer. But, as Professor Viet explains,
they already unknowingly remove most
of the arsenic from their water. Many rural
residents use home filtration systems based
on a simple sand filter, which oxidises the
water and catches the iron particles by
filtering out the iron they are also filtering
out the arsenic sticking to the iron. Of bigger
concern, however, are the changing water
patterns far below ground.
As the city of Hanoi expands and water
needs increase, more and more wells are
being dug into the Pleistocene layer to
collect water that was once considered safe.
The problem is, when bottling companies
and public water plants drill wells, they
have to dig a few before they find a good
one, says Professor Viet. So we end up
with all these unused holes that puncture
the barrier between the Holocene and

Pleistocene aquifers.
There are also naturally occurring areas
where the clay barrier is thin. So when a lot
of water is pumped from the Pleistocene
aquifer, water and materials from the
Holocene layer may be pulled through to
replace it. Thus, if there is arsenic in the
area, it could be drawn into the previously
arsenic-free Pleistocene layer.
The now contaminated Pleistocene
water is then pumped out of the ground
and distributed through pipes and bottles
around the city.
Finding the Antidote

Luckily the arsenic seems to move very
slowly, much slower that the water itself,
says Professor Viet, estimating that Hanoi
has 16 to 20 years until there is widespread
contamination of the soil and water
throughout the city. One of the most obvious
strategies to prevent this is to reduce the
pumping of groundwater. Professor Viet
and other experts agree that focus should
be turned to cleaning up surface water such
as rivers and dams. This goes hand in hand
with improving the process of sanitation for
drinking water.
The good news is that the government
is working to decrease Hanois reliance on
groundwater. Since the study was released,
attention has turned to drawing more water
from Hoa Binh Reservoir to the west of the
capital.
Supplying urban centres with safe
drinking water while ensuring
environmental protection is a challenge
faced around the world. In order to ensure
Hanoi moves towards a sustainable and
healthy solution to this issue, more emphasis
is needed on keeping surface water clean,
and improving public education about
reducing water consumption. Clean water
is a precious resource and should be treated
as such.
Something Smells Fishy

In the meantime, however, there are a
few things residents can do to avoid
arsenic. Professor Viet gave me a few tips
for detecting arsenic in water. Arsenic is

colourless and tasteless so its tricky to pick
out but since it attaches itself to iron,
the presence of iron is an indicator of the
presence of arsenic. Iron, thankfully, is quite
easy to see and smell.
A good way to tell if the water contains
iron is to smell it, says Professor Viet. If it
smells fishy it probably contains iron, and as
such, likely arsenic.
He also suggests making a cup of green
tea. Vietnamese tea should be a light golden
colour, but if it turns a dark colour, there is
elevated iron for sure.
These are obviously not foolproof methods
for arsenic detection, so where possible one
is safer sticking to bottled water. The team
at the CETASD have tested all major brands
of bottled water using NanoSky, a filtration
system designed by Professor Viet and his
colleagues. Although all brands tested safe to
drink, Professor Viet recommends La Vie for
taste and mineral content. There are a lot of
good things in water too, he explains we
dont want to remove them all.
There is also the option of equipping your
house with water filters. Companies such as
BMS Vietnam (water-filter-vietnam.com) sell
imported, German-made BWT filters that not
only remove bacteria and chlorine, but also
arsenic and other metals. One of the benefits
of a water filter is that you drink less bottled
water, says Kristof Szabo, Hanoi operations
manager for BMS Vietnam. Although the
water itself may be fine, there are concerns
about the potential for chemicals from the
plastic bottles leaking into the water.
Moreover, with less energy consumption
and waste, water filters are without a doubt
a more sustainable option. Besides, whats
better than turning on the tap and having
clean water stream out? Thats a luxury we
dont always appreciate until its gone.
Back in the classroom, Professor Viet and
I finish our tea (a lovely golden colour).
What will you do for Tet? he asks as we
stand to leave. He smiles and nods when I
tell of my plans to visit Myanmar.
Watch out for the water, he says, there
is probably arsenic from the Himalayas
there, too.
Food & drink
MYSTERY DINER
HANOI
PP La Poule
Fusion cuisine? Its a designation that has many a chef running for
the hills. But as our mystery diner can attest, at Pepe La Poule it is the
name of the culinary game. Photos by Julie Vola
t first glance, figuring out what

PP La Poule does can be a little
bit confusing. While owner and
head chef Yu Masuda hails from
Japan, Japanese food cant be found on
the menu. The French name is exactly that
a name. But what you will find wont
exactly disappoint. In fact, PP La Poules
creative trifecta of Spanish, Chinese and
Italian cuisine has caught the attention
of many within its first few months of
opening.
With experience cooking in the kitchens
of five-star hotels from the Conrad-Hilton
in Japan to a stint at Hanois own Hilton
Opera, Masudas flair for international cuisine
has resulted in a surprisingly cohesive and

well-priced menu that allows diners to pair
Spanish tapas dishes like shrimp fried in
anchovy butter (VND90,000) with Chinese
specialities such as spicy Szechuan beef stew
(VND75,000).
Italian cuisine is strongly represented with
an authentic selection of pastas, ranging
from spaghetti vongole bianco with clams
(VND128,000) to lasagna with minced beef
and pork (VND135,000). The rest of the menu
is a maze of curry stews and Chinese noodle
dishes, varying from fried Shanghai noodles
(VND135,000) to spicy pork and sesame
ramen.
One downside of this culinary collision is
that it feels almost impossible to choose. At the

same time, how many restaurants give you the
option to turn your average lunch into a fun
ethnic mash-up?
Tapas with Dumplings

For starters, a sizzling plate of shrimp
ajillo (VND90,000) was carried over to our
table, instantly bathing us with fragrant
aromas of garlic, butter and anchovies. An
accompanying baguette torn up and used
for dipping was a nice touch to soak up all of
those nice salty flavours that perfectly whetted
our appetites.
Following suit, a pot of steamed clams
(VND80,000) gave us a second opportunity
THE VERDICT
10
FOOD
11
SERVICE
11
DCOR
to dip our crusty bread in a

wholesome broth that infused
the clams with a succulent and
lingering taste.
A steaming bowl of generously
stuffed Chinese dumplings in soup
(VND65,000) instantly warmed
our insides as a perfect precursor
to the main course, the restaurants
feted braised spare ribs and mango
with balsamic vinegar sauce
(VND159,000).
Arriving with a dollop of fluffy
mashed potatoes and steamed
asparagus, the generously sized
ribs arched over the plate like a
mini Sydney Harbour Bridge.
Each tug of the fork revealed

they were perfectly cooked, with
the flesh collapsing off the bone.
Although I was initially sceptical
about the addition of mango, it
added a pleasantly sweetness that
complimented the smoky taste of
the slow-cooked meat.
Despite its comprehensive menu,
PP La Poule offers a limited
selection in the way of desserts.
Our almond pudding (VND50,000)
whilst light, didnt feel like a
satisfying conclusion to what had
been very satisfying appetizers and
mains. It was also just a little too
sweet for our taste.
This aside, there are plenty of

reasons to visit PePe La Poule,
at least once. The eclectic menu
guarantees a fun mix and match of
tasty dishes that are well conceived
and well executed. You also wont
be disappointed with the location,
with the restaurant occupying prime
real estate at the tip of the Quang
An Jetty. The top floor, particularly,
offers an impressive open-air dining
room with 360-degree views of
Hanoi and West Lake that could
prove a popular spot come the
summer months.
PP La Poule is at 27, 50/62 Dang
Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Hanoi
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
Food & drink
STREET SNACKER
HANOI
My Van Than
From Chinese import to a Hanoi staple, wonton noodles or my
van than are found all over the capital. Words by Huyen Tran.
anoi has its own unique food

culture, one that has been
affected by Chinese and French
influences. Take Hanois street
side banh my. Different from the original
French baguette, it has been adapted to
local tastes, as has banh my sot vang (beef
stew in red wine sauce) and bo bit tet
(Vietnamese beef steak with bread). When
it comes to Chinese-originated food, my
van than or wonton noodles is a perfect
example of how Hanoians have altered a
Chinese dish to enjoy it in their own way.
According to my grandmother, wonton
noodles first appeared in Hanoi in the
1930s when merchants from Guangdong
immigrated to Vietnam. With the presence
of these Chinese settlers came their cuisine
Chinese street peddlers began selling
wonton noodles. Wherever these peddlers
went, the sound of their bamboo sticks
beating against each other became a feature
of the wonton noodles of the time.
At first, traditional Hanoians found it
difficult to eat, says my grandmother.
So for a long time the dish was not so well
known. The peddlers then changed the
recipe, used local ingredients and made it a
mix between Hanoi and Chinese cuisine.
Nowadays, wonton noodle peddlers can
no longer be found in Hanoi, but people can
easily find my van than in eateries across the
city, cooked up not only by chefs of Chinese
origin, but also by Hanoians.
My van than is now prepared by

Hanoians with much less ingredients than
its Chinese original version, adds my
grandmother.
Wonton Desire
To Hanoians, good my van than must have
a clear, sweet and light broth, made from
ingredients including fresh shrimp, pork
bones, dried sturgeon, Chinese herbal
medicine and salt. The noodles, made from
flour and eggs, must be fresh, soft and
pliable. The wonton dough, after being
boiled, must be transparent. Its fillings
minced pork and minced shrimp must
be fresh and rich. Chinese-style barbecued
pork, mushrooms, a quarter of boiled egg, a
fresh shrimp and vegetables are added to the
soup, and in some eateries, Hanoian chefs
also add a piece of boiled liver.
Good my van than can be found all over
the city, but if you want to discover the
original taste made by the Chinese, then
head to Hang Chieu.
Three my van than eateries line this
bustling street Phuong Beo (19 Hang
Chieu, Hoan Kiem) and Binh Tay (54 Hang
Chieu, Hoan Kiem) are said to be two of the
best wanton noodle joints in town.
My grandfather is Chinese and he was
a merchant in Saigon, says the owner of
Phuong Beo. Then he moved to Hanoi and
started selling my van than.
According to my grandfather, the secret
to a delicious my van than lies in the broth,

which is only achieved if you cook it with
a lot of fresh shrimp. You cannot fake it.
Besides the shrimp, the dried sturgeon is
another secret. Another challenge is getting
the amount of salt just right.
Besides its broth, Phuong Beo is also wellknown for its soft and delicious noodles.
To make sure the noodles are tasty, soft
but pliable, you must remember the formula
2 hot 1 cold, she says. It means after
soaking the dry noodles twice in boiling
water, you need to put it into cold water once.
The wontons are even more challenging.
To make the clear skin of the wonton, you
must wait for a specific period of time for
the dough to rise, so that you can have a
thin and transparent cover to wrap over the
fillings.
Now in its third generation, the owner
admits that the way she cooks my van
than has changed since the time of her
grandfather. However, generation after
generation, the essence of the original recipe
is still there.
She adds: We intend to give this eatery
to my son. When he takes it over, over time
peoples tastes will change. He will need
to know how to adapt the soup to modern
times.
My Van Than at 54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem
and 19 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem are open from
early morning until late at night. A bowl costs
between VND30,000 and VND35,000
Food & drink
MYSTERY DINER
HCMC
San Fu Lou
Our anonymous food reviewer visited San Fu Lou, a recently
opened Chinese restaurant thats been making some waves.
o Chi Minh Citys food scene has

been booming, and weve seen
many firsts in the last few years
new restaurants, new styles,
new cuisines, all appearing regularly. Its a
quiet flourishing, marking a new maturity.
Weve got more choices than ever before,
including with Chinese food.
San Fu Lou is hardly the first Chinese
restaurant, nor dim sum joint, to hit this city,
but its one of a small number of hip Chinese
eateries that cater to an international mix of
Vietnamese, expats and tourists. Snugly tucked
into the front corner of the AB Tower, its
highly visible, and usually visibly full.
My companion and I arrived sans
reservation, and servers whisked us to a
polished wooden table with benches straight
out of a 19th-century Shanghai inn, leaving
us with menus and what appeared to be
scorecards. Shrugging, I appreciated the size of
the menu; good variety without over-reaching.
Style All its Own

The ordering system is unusual a partialservice system. Customers fill out their cards,
ticking off how many portions of whichever
items they fancy. Waiters offer advice, and
do other, typical waiter-style things. A minor
variant of the norm, but worth noting. Some
customers mightnt like doing even that little

work at a sit-down restaurant.
Splurging on beef fried rice
(VND140,000), wagyu beef and shitake
dumplings (VND65,000/3 pieces),
SFL Signature duck and black truffle
dumplings (VND65,000/3 pieces), prawns
in rice-flour rolls (VND65,000/3 pieces),
and the San Fu Lou BBQ Combination of
chicken, duck and pork (VND220,000), to
drink we ordered a large pot of unusually
fragrant Puer tea (VND65,000). For
dessert, we stayed conservative: mango
pudding (VND55,000) and fried banana
with sesame seeds and vanilla ice cream
(VND65,000).
The BBQ arrived first, and the meat
tasted great: well-marinated, tender, juicy.
All the dim sum arrived pretty much
at once rather than in stages, as is more
usual. I delighted in the wagyu and shitake
dumplings, simultaneously rich and
delicate. The other dishes were also lovely:
steamed just right, great proportions of
dough to filling, and well-thought out
combinations of ingredients. Last came
the fried rice, solid but unspectacular.
The desserts, too, were solid not too
sweet, not too filling, a relaxed ending to a
relaxed meal.
Balance in All Things

The consistency caught my attention:
every dish worked, and was prepared
well, with attention to detail. All the sauces
complimented their dumplings; the tea went
with everything. Said in one word, Id say
balance: all flavours harmonious, nothing
over-daring nor stuffily old, decent portions
at a very reasonable price.
The servers make their ordering system
work and although we had that one small
hitch of everything arriving at once, they did
their job politely and efficiently.
Somewhere between a traditional Chinese
pharmacy, gallery and nightclub, San Fu
Lous decoration scheme is a fun, quirky
mix. It works, and the ambience supports
the food dining is an experience for all the
senses.
Overall, it offers great value for money, tasty
food, good service and a refreshingly fun,
playful style. If youre craving some dim sum,
check it out; Im glad I did, and Ill be going
back on my own dime the next time I just have
to eat char sil bao or curried prawn dumplings.
Ultimately, thats the sincerest compliment a
food writer can offer a restaurant.
San Fu Lou is open from 7am to 3am and is
located on the Ground Floor, AB Building, 76 Le
Lai, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City
THE VERDICT
12
FOOD
12
SERVICE
13
DCOR
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
Food & drink
STREET SNACKER
HCMC
Com Ga Xoi Mo
This month, Simon Stanley samples Saigons take on a classic

fried chicken and rice. Photos by Glen Riley
here arent many corners of

the globe where poultry and
hot oil isnt being combined in
some glorious, crispy, sizzling
manifestation of deliciousness. And
Vietnam is no exception. With over 140
KFC outlets now in operation across the
country, the good Colonels offerings are
never more than a website click away. Of
course, for the connoisseurs among you,
a branch of Popeyes isnt too hard to find
either. Now Im not here to judge, but
Ill take eating from a china plate over a
bucket any day.
But enough preamble. This is Vietnam,
and we are street snackers. The pavement is
our dining room and Im hungry.
Napkins At The Ready

Tucked inside the ground floor pocket of
a crumbling colonial residence, beneath
a large illuminated cartoon chicken and
flanked by a lineup of crooked patchwork
parasols, Com Ga Xoi Mo Su Su is one of
Saigons favourite spots for fried chicken
and rice.
Without menus, the choice is simple
leg (including the thigh) or wing

(including the breast). My dining
companion and I point to our own legs in
unison and our order is placed. And heres
where things get interesting.
Peering inside the kitchen, its clear that
this is no ordinary chicken shop. A literal
translation of xoi mo comes out as flush the
fat. Doesnt sound too appetising, but hang
in there. While most commercial frying
methods see either partial or complete
submersion in hot oil, another traditional
option is to continually pour the bubbling
inferno over the meat by hand.
But dinnertime is nigh and the hungry
masses are approaching. Cooking each
piece of meat to order will take a lot of
hands or a lot of time. What to do?
Enter Su Sus secret weapon: a veritable
fried chicken factory of a machine designed
and built by the restaurants owner. In
standby mode, it could be any normal
industrial catering device a shiny
aluminium grill perhaps but flick the red
power button and stand back. Somewhere
in its core a motor whirs to life and from
a raised reservoir a deluge of hot oil rains
down tropical-storm fashion, blanketing

the wire rack of chicken below before being
collected and pumped back to the top. Ive
never seen anything like it.
VFC
Inventiveness aside, how does it all taste?
Im quite picky when it comes to chicken
skin it has to be crisp and not too slimy.
Su Sus is just that. Arriving steaming and
still sizzling, its textbook golden brown
in colour and smells divine. The meat
inside is juicy without being saturated (a
result of the pouring method), and the
secret recipe dipping sauce adds a kick of
flavour. Tasting like a soy-barbecue-teriyaki
hybrid and loaded with fresh garlic, were
devouring it.
Looking at the plates of other diners, it
seems that some portions are bigger than
others. Su Sus chickens clearly vary in
plumpness. I make a mental note to ask
for a fatter bird next time as my serving is
stripped to the bone and gone all too soon.
Com Ga Xoi Mo Su Su is at 55 Tu Xuong,
Q3, Ho Chi Minh City. Meals are VND40,000,
or VND30,000 for chicken only
fashion
BRAND
AMBASSADORS
Whats beer without the eye candy?
your creepy uncle maybe used to say.
Well the beer companies in Vietnam
have obliged, with helpful ladies
wandering table to table, offering
you ice and generally acting as the
sweetest billboards youve ever
seen.
Well, these ladies dont only

dispense ice here they get a bit
freaky with a lagers best friend.
Photos by Francis Xavier
DJ M Y S UNNIE
Experience: 2 years
You can see me play at: Beer club xpose,
MTV bar
Genres: Vinahouse, EDM
My outfits and looks help me do my
job better. They also help me have more
confidence in front of an audience. [But
when I am hired] I think it is because I do a
good job. To be a real DJ you have to have
passion, passion to do your work well. The
looks are just a minor part of my job.
Queens of the
Electronic Age
ts an open secret. Though most of these

women can actually spin records (or
programme Serato), thats not the only
reason theyre getting the gigs. And
dressed in low-cut crop tops, form-fitting
miniskirts, just the right amount of purple
glitter lipstick they dont hide it.
While certain Facebook groups might be
painting these ladies with a rather broad
brush, all the DJs posing here are sexy
and they know it. Playing to crowds bodyrockin to the sounds of beat music, theyve
decided that a little visual stimulation isnt a
bad thing either.
Photography: O LIVIER L AUDE

Hair & Makeup: M YKA
Styling: A RIS V AN C ALSTER
Assistant: F RANCIS X AVIER
DJ T Y T Y
Experience: 4 years
You can see me play at: Shadow Club,
Fuse, Avalon, Diamond Club
Genres: EDM, Hiphouse, Tech House, Deep
House
I love being photographed. But this shoot
is different as I am wearing different types of
clothing to what I normally wear. Its helped me
learn about styles from the past.
If you are attractive it creates a good
impression being beautiful has many
factors to it, like how you dress, walk and treat
people or customers. However, being a good
DJ or not will determine whether you stay at
your house venue for long or if you are invited
to play at other events. So I have to have both
of these factors to be successful. But theres
one more thing. Luck.
DJ T rang C hu
Experience: 3 years
You can see me play at:
Hangover Beer Club, TATU
Lounge, 85 Club
Genres: Electro House, EDM,
Deep House
I really like people taking
photographs of me its my
hobby and I like to look good.
[My looks are important for my
job] because they help create a
good impression on other
people. They also help
me feel more selfconfident about doing
my job.
travel
TRAVEL
INTERNATIONAL
The
Tourist Trap
Courtesy of a stop on a cruise, Nick Ross found himself
with eight hours to spare in Patong, the main beach
resort in Phuket. Heres what he found
hukets best-known beach town,

Patong, doesnt have the best
of reputations. The Kuta of
Thailand, the west coasts answer
to Pattaya caters for the lowest common
denominator sun, sea, beer and cheap
thrills. So when I stepped off a cruise
boat with eight hours ahead of me before
moving onto my next destination, I
thought I already had the town summed
up. Typical, low-end Thailand.
Yet there is something visually enticing
about this place, a bombardment on the
senses, a vibrancy that calls at you. I felt
like I should hate Patong, yet everywhere I
looked I found myself being seduced.
Maybe its the non-stop tourist season
bustle, the crowded municipal beach, the

street-side stores selling cheap tack, or the
watering holes on every block. Maybe its
even the endless massage parlours, with
heavily made-up, mini-skirted masseuses
standing outside, ushering you in. Or perhaps
the ubiquitous neon signage, each gaudy
advertisement trying to outdo the next.
No matter how much you may love or
hate places like these white sand clichs
like Cancun, Mallorca, Kuta, Pattaya they
all have something to draw in the tourists,
and to keep them coming back. Patong is no
different.
I wouldnt choose to go to Patong on
holiday. But having been there, I can now
understand how so many others would.
travel
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HCMC - INTERNATIONAL / HCMC - DELUXE / HCMC - MID-RANGE / HCMC - BUDGET / HOI
AN & DANANG / HUE & LANG CO / NHA TRANG / PHAN THIET & MUI NE / PHONG NHA / PHU
QUOC / SAPA / VUNG TAU & HO TRAM / TRAVEL SERVICES HANOI / TRAVEL SERVICES ELSEWHERE
DALAT
ANA MANDARA VILLAS
$$$$
Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063)
3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE
$$$$
12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
tours of the serene Halong

Bay, aboard reproduction
wooden junks. Two or three
night trips with a wide range
of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.
CUC PHUONG
$
Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh
Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006
cucphuongtourism.com
EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES,

HALONG BAY
DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL
172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
Located in central Dalat,
this is the perfect place for
budget travellers. Quiet,
newly refurbished with
beautiful mountain and city
views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and
snack bar in all rooms with
a downstairs coffee shop
and computers in the lobby
for guest use.
$$$$
Tel: (04) 3935 1888
emeraude-cruises.com
Reproductions, of 19th
century paddle steamers,
trawl around Halong Bay
in colonial style. A classic
experience, complete with,
overnight accommodations
in impeccable cabins suites.
LA FERME DU COLVERT
$$
Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh,
Tel: 02183 825662
etoile-des-mers.com
LA VIE VU LINH
$
Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen
Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743
lavievulinh.com
MAI CHAU ECOLODGE

DALAT TRAIN VILLA
Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 381 6365
dalattrainvilla.com
Located near the Dalat Train
Station, the Dalat Train Villa
is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.
In its grounds is a 1910
train carriage which has
been renovated into a bar
and cafe. Located within 10
minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.
TRUNG CANG HOTEL
$
22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 2663
AROUND HANOI
BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER
HOTEL
$$$
KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong
Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031)
388 0888
pearlriverhotel.vn
BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY
$$$
Tel: 0933 446542
bhayacruises.com
Experience breathtaking
Na Phon, Hoa Binh, Tel: (04)

6275 1271
maichau.ecolodge.asia
Occupies a private hill in Na
Phon Village in Mai Chau,
Hoa Binh a beautiful valley
roughly 135km southwest of
Hanoi Mai Chau Ecolodge
is a new four-star property
featuring 21 bungalows built
and operated with ecological
principles in mind.
MAI CHAU LODGE
$$$
Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh,
Tel: (0218) 386 8959
maichaulodge.com
NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY
$$
Ha Long Road, Bai Chay
Ward, Ha Long City, Quang
Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108
novotelhalong.com.vn
TAM COC GARDEN RESORT

Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu,
Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249
2118
contact@tamcocgarden.
com
tamcocgarden.com
Surrounded by rice fields
and spectacular karsts,
Tam Coc Garden is a haven

of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury.
Spacious rooms with rustic
and chic dcor, a pool with
breathtaking views, a beautiful garden, and panoramic
views over the fields and
mountains. The perfect place
to relax.
HANOI - INTERNATIONAL
CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL
$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 6270 6688
crowneplazawesthanoi.com
This premier five-star
property lies beside the My
Dinh National Stadium and
Convention Centre. Boasts
two swimming pools, a spa,
and a fitness centre in its 24
stories.
DAEWOO HOTEL
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3831 5555
www.hanoi-daewoohotel.
com
This enormous structure
offers the most modern of
amenities, and with four
restaurants and two bars,
the events staff is well
equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National
Convention Center, and a
favourite of the business
traveller, Daewoo even
boasts an outdoor driving
range. Shortly to become a
Marriot property.
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI

6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3831 3333
www.fortuna.vn
This 350-room four-star set
up in the heart of Hanois financial district has a variety
of rooms on offer, a capital
lounge and three restaurants that serve Japanese,
Chinese and international
cuisine. And like youd expect, theres a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a
separate spa and treatment
facility for men and women.
Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business
deals on rooms and spaces
to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.
HOTEL DE LOPERA
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
Resting just a step away
from the Opera House, the
hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.
The first boutique five star
in the heart of Hanoi, the
lavish, uniquely designed
107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and
are complimented by two
restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.
HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI

20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944
9396
hanoi.hgi.com
With 86 fully-equipped
guestrooms and suites, this
is the first Hilton Garden
Inn property in Southeast
Asia. Centrally located and
a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel
offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with
complimentary business and
fitness centres making it
perfect for the international
business or leisure traveller.
HILTON HANOI OPERA

1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500
hanoi.hilton.com
Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short
stroll from the Old Quarter,
this five-star hotel is a Hanoi
landmark. With 269 fullyequipped rooms and suites,
theres plenty for the discerning business and leisure
traveller to choose from.
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI
WESTLAKE
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6270 8888
www.hanoi.intercontinental.
com
This stunning property built
over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.
Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable,
top-end accommodation and
all the mod-cons make up the
mix here together with the
resorts three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar,
a watering hole located on a
thoroughfare over the lake.
Great gym and health club.
JW MARRIOTT HANOI
8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu
Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833
5588
jwmarriotthanoi.com
From the expressive architecture outside to the
authentic signature JW
Marriott services inside,
this Marriott hotel in Hanoi
is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next

door to the National Convention Centre.
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and

tranquil courtyards, this
peaceful property features
picturesque views of West
Lake and is less than 10
minutes from downtown.
In addition to the luxurious
rooms, the hotel offers an
outdoor swimming pool and
great relaxation and fitness
facilities, including a tennis
court and spa. There are well
equipped conference rooms
and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.
MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER

43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933
5688
maydeville.com
The largest four-star hotel
in Hanois Old Quarter, 110
rooms, a swimming pool, a
top floor terrace bar and a
location just a stones throw
from Hoan Kiem Lake make
this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in
the heart of the action.
MELIA HANOI
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
www.meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central
Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws
plenty of business travellers and is also a popular
venue for conferences and
wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant
restaurants, stylish bars,
fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house
guests satisfied.
MVENPICK HOTEL HANOI

83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
www.moevenpick-hanoi.
com
With its distinctive French
architecture and top end service, Mvenpick Hotel Hanoi
is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day
restaurant and a lounge bar
are available to satiate their
clientele while the kinetic gym
and wellness studio offer an
excellent range of equipment.
Massage and sauna facilities
are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154
well-appointed rooms and
suites, 93 are non-smoking.
PULLMAN HOTEL
$$$$
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3733 0808
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and
suites, a contemporary
lobby, an excellent buffet,
and a la carte restaurant,
this Accor group property
is prestigious and close to
the Old Quarter.
SHERATON
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
www.sheraton.com/hanoi
SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE

HANOI
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
www.sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French
colonial period is probably
still the finest in todays Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was)
anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where
the service is impeccable
and the luxurious facilities
complement the ambiance of
a bygone era. Definitely the
place to put the Comtessa up
for a night.
SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI

1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3823 8888
Boasting Hanois best views
of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake
and the Red River, Sofitel
Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.
The 5-star hotel features
317 luxurious, comfortable
guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view
ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.
HANOI MID-RANGE
6 ON SIXTEEN
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
www.sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to
grace Hanois Old Quarter,
the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with
handicrafts and antique.
Breakfast is included and in
the long, lounge restaurant
on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is
served up with fresh fruit
juices and Lavazza coffee.
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL
$$$
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928
6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the
Old Quarter, this little slice of
heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient
restaurant, serves the finest
in international and Vietnamese cuisine.
MAISON DHANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
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Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem
Lake, this glowing pearl in
the heart of Hanoi provides
tranquility with an art gallery
and piano bar.
MAY DE VILLE
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988
Set in the old French Quarter
a short walk from the Opera
House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining
contemporary architecture
with traditional Vietnamese
style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including
four suites.
HANOI BUDGET
HANOI BACKBACKERS HOSTEL
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 5372
www.hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town,
with bunk-style beds mixed
or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus
a couple of double suites
from VND250,000. A place
to meet like-minded fold in
the Old Quarter.
HCMC - INTERNATIONAL
CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Reports
2006 list of the worlds top
100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular
rooftop Saigon Saigon bar,
and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.
DUXTON HOTEL
$$$
63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2999
saigon.duxtonhotels.com
Famous for its daylong
rotatingmenu buffets, the
Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym,
spa, and fine dining.
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex
offers: 14 instant offices,
seven meeting rooms, a
600-capacity ballroom, spa,
outdoor swimming pool, a
gym, 24-hour fine dining,
24-hours room service, and
limousine services.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON
$$$$$
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh
City, resides the Asiana with
signature dining options,
an innovative cocktail bar,
exclusive spa and health
club, together with luxury
boutique arcade.
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON
$$$$
2A4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture,
spacious rooms, and a fine
selection of fine dining, with
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
NEW WORLD HOTEL
$$$$
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
Former guests include U.S.
presidents two Bushes,
Clinton and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event
as well as a hotel, New World
is one of the best luxury
stops in town.
PARK HYATT
$$$$$
2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in
location, everything one
would expect from the Hyatt.
The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants
have garnered an excellent
reputation, as has the landscaped pool.
PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE
$$$
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property
boasts seven dining and
entertainment outlets, a
business centre, meeting
rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.
The Equatorial also has an
on-site casino.
$$$$$
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the
site of the old Metropole,
this upscale, contemporary
property boasts 306 signature rooms combining
design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine,
a great downtown location
and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600
guests make up the mix.
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON
REX HOTEL
EQUATORIAL
$$$$$
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 7777
$$$$
3829 2185
rexhotelvietnam.com
Brimming with history the
Rexs openair fifthfloor
bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now
five-star property, boasts
designer fashion and a shopping arcade.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the
Saigon River, a 15-minute
scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town,
Riversides complementary
shuttle services take you
right in the city centre. With
152 fully equipped serviced
apartments, the property
offers special packages for
short-term stay starting at
VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.
RIVERSIDE HOTEL
$$$$$
1819-20 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417
riversidehotelsg.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers
complimentary Wi-Fi, airport
pickup or drop off, a 4th floor
ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River
Restaurant.
SHERATON
$$$$$
88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of
the best locations in town,
with firstclass facilities,
an openair restaurant 23
floors above the city and
a live music venue on the
same floor.
(08) 3829 9201

continentalhotel.com.vn
This charming old hotel has
been fted in literature and
in film. In the heart of Saigon,
this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.
Airport. With spectacular

city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming
pool, there is little reason not
to choose this shining star.
NORFOLK HOTEL
ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$$
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique
business hotel is located
minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and
is renowned for its fabulous
steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.
NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE
$$$
167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3822 4866
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has
a contemporary feel, an
international buffet The
Square a rooftop bar, and
a wellness centre including a
swimming pool, gym, sauna
and spa.
STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL
$$$
144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
The newly-built hotel is near
Tan Son Nhat International
HCMC - MID-RANGE
$$
3822 5914
kimdohotel.com
that overlook the bank of

the Saigon River, this is truly
someplace special.
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL
$$$
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,
Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256
9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
HCMC - BUDGET
EMM HOTEL
DUC VUONG HOTEL
157 Pasteur, Q3
A sleek, contemporary threestar hotel that mixes vintage
appeal and modern chic
thanks to a subdued palette
of white and grey around two
pop colours: azalea pink
and green hot pepper. Part
of the Thien Minh Group that
includes Victoria Hotels and
Buffalo Tours.
$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 6992
ducvuonghotel.com
Free WiFi offered in every
room. Low prices, friendly
staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps
from the backpackers area.
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2
$$$
46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa
Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
THAO DIEN VILLAGE
$$
195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2222
thaodienvillage.com
A colonialstyle hotel and
spa offers fine Italian, Thai
and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view
DUNA HOTEL
$
167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel:
(08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
HONG HOA HOTEL
$
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
SINH HUONG HOTEL
$
157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
Josephs Hotel
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
Next to the cathedral
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA
$$$$
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
This 20story building in
downtown Saigon, caters
to upscale business and
leisure travelers seeking a
classic yet contemporary
stay in Saigon.
WINDSOR PLAZA
$$$
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its
own shopping hub (including
a bank), fine dining, a sauna,
health club, and superb
panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest
Oktoberfest in the region.
HCMC - DELUXE
CONTINENTAL
$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
Free wi-fi, international breakfast,

spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,
multi-shower, friendly service
www.josephshotel.com
5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
travel
HOI AN & DANANG
AN BANG BEACH RETREAT
An Bang Beach, Hoi An
www.anbangbeachretreat.
com
CUA DAI
$
544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:
(0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$
Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu
Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 396 1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn
FURAMA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
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THE NAM HAI
$$$$
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village,
Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394
0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive
swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant
spa on a lotus pond. Each
massive room has its own
espresso machine, pre
programmed iPod and both
indoor and outdoor showers.
VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT

AND SPA
Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510)
392 7040
victoriahotels.asia
HUE & LANG CO

ANGSANA LANG CO
$$$$
Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da
Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang
Resort and Spa is beachfront
with a stunning view of the
Marble Mountains. There
are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnams South
Central Coast, Angsana Lang
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encompasses the resorts contemporary buildings and chic
interiors.
LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI
BANYAN TREE LANG CO
HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA
$$$
Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui
Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel:
(0510) 354 5105
domainedetamhai.com
LIFE RESORT HOI AN
$$$
1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An,
Tel: (0510) 391 4555
life-resorts.com
MERCURE DANANG
$$$
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379
7777
mercure-danang.com
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/
lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The
Banyan Tree offers privacy
and unparalleled exclusivity
with all-pool villas reflecting
the cultural and historical
legacy of past Vietnamese
dynastic periods.
LA RESIDENCE
$$$$
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383
7475
laresidencehue.com
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang
Tel: (0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the stunning
white sands of Bac My An
Beach, the stylish Pullman
Danang Beach Resort is
an oasis of activities and
facilities for the modern
traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is
perfect for a family holiday
or romantic beach getaway.
And with extensive function
facilities, Pullman Danang
also provides the a great location for your next incentive
getaway or event.
$
66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382
6736
hoangphuonghotel.com
NHA TRANG
EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX
SENSES SPA
$$$$
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)
352 2222
sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/
destination
2.6 hectares of private
beachside gardens and
villastyle accommodation
furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool
bar and the signature Six
Senses Spa.
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT
$
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this
budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG
$$$$
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:
(058) 398 9666
mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG
$$$
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:
(058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with
154 guestrooms, all with
a terrace and sea view.
Complete with a pool, spa,
restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up
to 200 delegates.
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH

VAN BAY
$$$$
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372
8222
sixsenses.com/resorts/
ninh-van-bay/destination
The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.
The location is stunning, on a
bay accessible only by boat.
SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL

AND SPA
$$$$
26 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058)
388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang
SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA
$$$
1214 Tran Phu, Nha Trang,
Tel: (058) 382 0999
sunrisenhatrang.com.vn
PHAN THIET & MUI NE

NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB &
BAR
Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan
Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068)
627 2727
ninhchubay.com
Enjoy the private beach with
excellent facilities and have a
massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon
to become a fully fledged
resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria,
draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this
one of a kind destination.
PHAN THIET & MUI NE

ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND
SPA
$$$$
8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
374 3777
allezboo.com
This resort offers exotic
Balistyle, thatched roof

honeymoon villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms,
fresh seafood, Vietnamese
cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing
and parasailing.
BLUE OCEAN RESORT
$$$$
384 7322
blueoceanresort.com.vn
life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH
$$$$
384 7111
cocobeach.net
With charming wooden
bungalows, a private beach,
a swimming pool (both with
attached bars) and a French
restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who
opened it in 1995.
MIA RESORT MUI NE
$$$
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
PRINCESS DANNAM RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh,
Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222
princessannam.com
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,
Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria
chain, the thatchedroof
bungalows and family villas
are set in exotic gardens
with an infinity swimming
pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and
jacuzzi.
PHONG NHA
EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR
$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail.
com
A hostel and street-front bar
all in one. Has a pleasant,
airy atmosphere in the bar
and restaurant area while
the 52 dorm beds four
beds to a room go for
US$8 (VND168,000) each a
night.
HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY
$$
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
phong-nha-homestay.com
PEPPER HOUSE
$
Tel: 01678 731560
pepperhouse-homestay.com
PHONG NHA FARMSTAY
$$
Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers joint has
a great bar and restaurant
area, a swimming pool out
back and views overlooking
paddy fields and mountains.
Rooms start at VND600,000
for a twin or double, with a
family room for five costing
VND1.4 million a night.
PHONG NHA LAKE RESORT
$$
Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo
Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052)
367 5999
phongnhalakehouse.com
SAIGON - PHONG NHA
$$$
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016
sgphongnhahotel@yahoo.
com.vn
PHU QUOC
BEACH CLUB RESORT
$$
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island
guesthouse featuring a
beachside restaurant, and
includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and
tours are easily arranged.
Discount rates during rainy
season.
CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua
Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang,
Tel: (077) 399 5895
centarahotelsresorts.com
MANGO BAY
$$
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An ecofriendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.
SAPA
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
$$
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203
871946
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from its
bar restaurant, the Cat Cat
Guesthouse is paradise at
very reasonable rates. The
rooms have big windows,
balconies, and log fireplaces.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$$
Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai
Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)

topasecolodge.com
With its panoramic views of
the surrounding mountains
and valley, Topas Ecolodge
is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and
quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains the
landscape, the fresh air and
the ethnic peoples. Guests
stay in private bungalows
with dinner served in a local
stilt house restaurant.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$
24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel:
0203 872404
topasecolodge.com
For the environmentally
conscientious, 25 individual
lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar
technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also
organises treks and bicycle
tours.
VICTORIA SAPA
$$$
Tel: 0203 871522
victoriahotels.asia
VUNG TAU & HO TRAM

BINH AN VILLAGE
$$$$
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
CON DAO RESORT
$$
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con
Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064)
383 0939
condaoresort.vn
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND

SPA
$$$$
Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is
the ideal getaway from Ho
Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely
bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa
and two swimming pools.
HO TRAM SANCTUARY
$$$$
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come
with their own pool and have
direct access to the beach.
Extras include tennis courts,
a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.
REX HOTEL
$$
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
SIX SENSES CON DAO
$$$$
Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao
travel
THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP
Phuoc Thuan Commune,
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand - Ho Tram Strip
is Vietnams first large
scale integrated resort and
ultimately will include a
1,100-room five-star hotel,
a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting
space, an exclusive VIP area,
as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.
The first 541-room tower
of this development opened
in July 2013 with its casino
including 90 live tables and
614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room
tower is on track to open in
2015.
TRAVEL SERVICES HANOI

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com
www.buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at
the service of all Vietnamese
and expatriate residents
in Vietnam offering easy,
hassle-free travel around
the world and in Vietnam,
with the highest standards
of customer care. This
premium Travel Agency
has been created to help
travelers select their destinations and organize their
trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and
ensure that all journeys are
enjoyable and successful.
BTA customizes leisure and
corporate travel plans while
offering a selected range of
small group tours.
EXO TRAVEL
66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3828 2150
exotravel.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel
agency with an extensive
operational track record in
the Indochina region and
beyond. Providing up-market
services, Exotissimo brings
their clients close to culture
through personalised tours.
Also find travel desks at the

Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which
are open on weekends and
holidays.
HANDSPAN TRAVEL
78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3926 2828
www.handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers
with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular
and isolated locations in
Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable
and responsible tourism
initiatives. Also provides to
excursions to more wellworn destinations.
HG TRAVEL
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
www.hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising
in small-group tours around
Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole
representative agent for
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities
in Africa www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines
(www.aa.com) and Turkish
Airlines (www.thy.com).
INDOCHINA LAND
61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2852
www.indochina-land.com
Indochina Land is a French
local travel agency for
expatriates and tourists
who want to see northern
Vietnam in a personal and
tailored way. Think small
knowledgeable teams of
Vietnamese and French
who share their passion for
discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on
freedom, family, health trips
and classic home stays. They
will show you around Ha Giang, too.
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
www.intrepidtravel.com/
vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is
an international travel company operating in Vietnam
since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks
and small group adventures.
With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid
focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City,
Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong
Bay, Sapa and beyond to get
you up close to Vietnams
people, cuisine, history and
culture.
SYRENA CRUISES
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 7214
www.syrenacruises.com
If youre thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while
enjoying luxury comfort,
Syrena Cruises could be the
quencher youre looking for.
Forget drinking games and
backpackers by relaxing on
one of the two wooden boats
from the fleet. Alone, as a
couple or with a group, 34
luxurious cabins and suites
are all ready for action. All
you have to do is decide on
how long you want to holiday for.
TRAVEL SENSE ASIA

Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
Tel: (04) 3715 3977
kien@travelsense.asia
A homegrown travel agency providing small group
journeys and tailor-made
holidays to Vietnam, Laos,
Cambodia, Myanmar and
Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisors Top 10 of best tours in
Hanoi since 2010.
travel to small group tours,

explore the world or Vietnam.
CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING

SERVICE
12th floor, 242 Cong Quynh,
District 1, HCMC
Call center: 1900 5454 40
www.en.chudu24.com
info.en@chudu24.com
Chudu24.com - the locally
famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is
known for having the best
prices and reliable service.
If you are looking for great
local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com.
It has been the #1 Vietnam
hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.
EXO TRAVEL
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)
3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotravel.com
A reliable and experienced
travel company operating
through Southeast Asia,
Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the
region, many including insights into culinary customs,
handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.
Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel
insurance, to corporate
companies, family and individual travelers.
GINKGO VOYAGE
1st Floor, 130 Nguyen Cong
Tru, Q1, HCMC
Tel: (08) 3914 3344
ginkgovoyage.com
Offers a full range of quality travel services to both
domestic and international
travellers, including private
and customized tours, small
group tours, hotels bookings
as well as corporate travel
/ MICE solutions in Vietnam
and further. Email info@
ginkgovoyage.com for info.
TERRAVERDE
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di,
Ward 4, Tan Binh District,
Tel: (08) 3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through
the Mekong Delta, trekking
in the highlands, or lazing in
a junk on Ha Long Bay all
while making a difference in
peoples lives then this
company will suit you well.
FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY
VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

(08) 3824 7744
flightravelco.com
169A De Tham, Q1, Tel:

01222 993585
vietnamvespaadventure.
com
Vespa Adventure offers
multiday tours of southern
and coastal Vietnam on the
back of a luxury motorbike
powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead
the way.
TRAVEL SERVICES ELSEWHERE

BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS
Tel: (08) 6298 5659
backofthebiketours.com
Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street
food to give customers a
truly immersive Vietnamese
experience.
BEENINASIA.COM
www.beeninasia.com
info@beeninasia.com
Online travel in Southeast
Asia. Offers you selection of
best hotels and great tours.
Create your own trip or we
can tailor make your itinerary.
MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui
Ne, Tel: 0908 400108
mantasailing.org
TU TRAVEL
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho
City, Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
TRAVEL SERVICES HCMC

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY
70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702;
157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi
Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827
9170
www.buffalotours.com
This premium travel agency
helps travelers select their
destinations and organize
their trips. From corporate
Hanoi
COFFEE CUP // RECALLING HANOI // TOP EATS // FOOD PROMOS // THE ALCHEMIST // THE
THERAPIST // MEDICAL BUFF // BOOK BUFF
Julie vola
W HAT S
The Space in Between. A new housing

development in Danang.
hanoi
business
BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS /

MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
BUSINESS GROUPS
ICHAM
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1
Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2229
icham.org
The Chamber has the main
purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and
to assist economic agents,
as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic
relations and cooperation
among entrepreneurs of
the various countries. The
Chamber will not engage in
commercial activities with
the aim of producing profits.
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2229
ccifv.org
A business group with over
240 members that supports the French business
community in Vietnam by
listening to their members
needs and expectations. Also
promotes Vietnam to French
companies and helps them in
developing their businesses
here.
EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
A confederate organisation
with strong ties to national
business associations in its
member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support
for the business interests of
European Union members in
Vietnam.
INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD
MARKET RESEARCH
xavier@indochinaresearch.
com
indochinaresearch.com
Active in Vietnam for more
than 20 years, Indochina
Research has the capacity to
run large research projects
in the country, for commercial and social purposes.
CORPORATE SERVICES
ENDO
79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3783 2085
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manu-
facturing for local resorts,

restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.
INSURANCE
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel
Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3936 5370
Emergency: 0903 732365
insuranceinvietnam.com
Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal
lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has
been operational in Vietnam
since 1994 and offers free
advice and comparative
quotes.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL, HANOI
Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes
Riverside, Long Bien, Hanoi
Tel: 04 3946 0435
www.bishanoi.com
The British International
School (BIS) Hanoi, is a selective, independent, co-educational day school. It provides
a British style education for
an international student
body operating from a modern purpose-built campus
in the vibrant and cultured
city of Hanoi. The National
Curriculum for England, International General Certificate of Secondary Education
(IGCSE) and Advanced Level
(A Level) are taught to English speaking students from
Pre-School to Year 13. The
International Baccalaureate
(IB) Diploma will, pending IB
authorization, be offered
from 2016 onwards.
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
International brand, Concordia, has highly performing
schools in both Hong Kong
and Shanghai at the top tier
of the educational system.
All instructors and teachers
are native English speakers
and admission applications
are accepted throughout
the year.
ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN HANOI
3rd floor, Tower A, Keangnam Landmark, DinhNghe,
Me Tri. Tel: 0965 588888
etonhouse.edu.vn
Thanks to a unique curriculum used in over 100
schools, a stimulating and
motivating environment, and
a child-centred approach,
children at Eton House make
rapid progress and achieve
their maximum potential.
Classes offeredfor students
aged 18 months to 6 years
and there isan Open Door
Policy at all times.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available for
students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is
one of the few private, international education options
in the capital. The institution
offers Cambridge IGCSE and
IB Diploma for students at
the secondary level. Located
near the Japanese Embassy.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF
VIETNAM
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai
Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183
www.isvietnam.org
The International School of
Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to
Grade 12 school serving the
international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts
students of any nationality
aged 3 and up. ISV offers
an international education
experience. Highly qualified
and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century
campus with the latest in
educational technology
plus excellent resources
for learning. Class sizes are
small.
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with
a foreign teacher leading the
class with the assistance of a
Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student
ratio. KinderWorld provides
pre school education for
children from 18 months to
below 6 years.
QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF

HANOI
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
hanoi.qsi.org
With nearly four decades of
experience in international
education, QSI International
School of Hanoi is next in the
long line of quality schools
that have been established
by the Quality Schools International. The institution
specialises in instructing
pre-school and lower elementary age students.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (SIS)
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic
Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block
C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel:
3795 1036
www,kinderworld.net/sis
SIS provides international
education for students from
Primary up to University
Foundation Programme. A
strong curriculum combines
the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and
Vietnamese curricula, all
taught by qualified teachers.
Runs various co-curricula
activities and prepares
students for internationally
recognised qualifications:
iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE &
AS/A Level, GAC
Unit 9 10, Shophouse

CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743
0360
3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934
7243
C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri
New Urban, Tu Liem District,
Tel: +84 4 3794 0209
APOLLO
67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3943 2051
Apollo.edu.vn
Established in 1994, Apollo
offers high-quality and costeffective English language
classes including general
English, English for teens,
English for business communication and a pronunciation
clinic. One of the countrys
RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS
BRITISH COUNCIL
20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3728 1922
britishcouncil.org
The cultural arm of the British governments presence
in Vietnam, the BC offers a
variety of English language
courses business writing, corporate training and
general English in a large
learning centre close to West
Lake.
AGS FOUR WINDS

41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 8762
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices
globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.
LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM

62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3927 3399
languagelink.edu.vn
With four schools around
Hanoi, Language Link runs
international English language courses endorsed by
Cambridge University. One of
the top language centres in
the capital.
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
RMIT
Hanoi Resco Building, 521
Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3726 1460
rmit.edu.vn
A leading international provider of skills training and
professional staff development, RMIT offers both short
and long-term courses,
customised courses, and
can provide for either on or
off-campus clients. Known
for its Business MBA which
is open to both Vietnamese
and overseas students.
ALLIED PICKFORDS
Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan
Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The international home
moving company helps
make the burden of moving
a lot easier. As the largest
home moving company in
the world, Allied Pickfords
moves over 1,000 families
in over 175 countries every
day. Available with a full
range of services domestic moves, office moves and
storage whether you are
moving within Vietnam or
across the world.
JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS

6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is currently a leader in
the field. Has offices in both
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES
MARKET RESEARCH
CIMIGO
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN
leading language centres.
142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel:

(04) 3518 6696
vietnam@cimigo.com
cimigolive.com
MARKET RESEARCH
com
Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers
local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including
home search, orientation,
cultural training, immigration services and records
management. For more information email Vietnam@
santaferelo.com.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
ATLANTA RESIDENCES
49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 0912 239085
hanoi
COFFEE CUP
HANOI HOUSE
ne of the amazing things about

Hanoi is that even after youve
been living here for a couple of
years and begin to feel like you
know everything, someone can show
you a hidden gem thats been under your
nose the entire time.
This was exactly how I felt one evening
when a friend dragged me out of Barbetta
on Ly Quoc Su and down a hidden alley
off St. Josephs Cathedral. The honking
and bright lights of the Old Quarter soon
vanished and I began navigating the
winding, narrow staircase to Hanoi House.
Pushing through a wooden door, we
Photos by Trung Del
stumbled into a warmly lit room neatly

arranged with small stools and wooden
tables. Pairs of shoes lay next to quaint
wooden staircases that led up to cubbylike mezzanines where small groups were
huddled around steaming cups of ca phe.
Underneath, couples sat in warm booths
reading menus under the glow of lit
candles.
It took me a second to realize that the
caf was actually part of a familys house.
Seeing us arrive, a family member jumped
to his feet, greeted us with a friendly smile
and handed us menus.
Like many traditional cafes in the city,
Hanoi House isnt the place to come for a

full-blown meal. The menu offers a modest
selection of Vietnamese coffees, smoothies,
snacks and for those winding down from a
night at Barbetta, reasonably priced bottles
of Bia Ha Noi (VND23,000).
But the main to visit Hanoi House is
for the experience. Its quiet; its intimate
and its simple. The staff will treat you
like youre a guest in their home. More
importantly, youll get to see what life is
like beyond the neon lights and among the
back alleys of Hanoi. David Mann
Hanoi House is hidden away at 2nd Floor,
47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
hanoi
atlanta.com.vn
Atlanta Residences fully
serviced apartments have
been created to provide a
space where you can feel
at home. Within walking
distance from Hanois Opera
House and Hoan Kiem Lake,
this building offers a panel of
51 spacious apartments for
you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer
the luxury of a hotel mixed
with the peaceful comfort
and privacy of your home,
under one roof of course.
FRASER SUITES HANOI

(04) 3719 8877
Located in the West Lake
area, Fraser Suites Hanoi
consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four
bedrooms, which meet any
lifestyle. With a calming and
warm interior feel, each
apartment features all the
latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides
peace of mind.
SOMERSET GRAND HANOI

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3934 2342
somerset.com
Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive
facilities. 185 fully furnished
apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central
location.
SPORTS GARMENTS
SCORE-TECH
44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: 01203 802832
A 100 percent foreigninvested company offering
personalised sport garments. Using the latest printing technology as well as a
design team from Barcelona,
Score-Tech controls the
whole production process
from producing fabrics and
sewing to printing. Big and
small orders of garments
produced for all sporting
needs.
Do you think you should be

listed on these pages? If so,
simply email us on
listings@wordvietnam.com
and well see what we can
do. We cant promise but
well try our best
old quarter
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS
BARS & CLUBS

CHEEKY QUARTER
LATE NIGHT LOCAL

1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
01679 647254
8pm to late
Last building on the right
before Hang Buom, this
popular with the French
(and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has
the same Old Quarter vibe;
small, cosy and personal
with funky twists and an
awesome logo. Spread over
two floors with good tunes,
drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till
late. Also does tasty paninis
into the early hours.
DRAGONFLY
DANCEHALL LOUNGE
15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 4926 2177
11am to late
One of the better venues in
the Old Quarter for dancing
on the weekends. Although
crammed into a small space,
cheap drinks and a mix of
chart chits makes Dragonfly
the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident
looking to get up on the
dance floor. If you dont feel
like dancing, relax upstairs
with shisha and friends with
one of the two lounges on
the second floor. The sister
venue on Phung Hung has a
bigger menu and an earlier
opening hour (11am instead
of 6pm) but still keeps with
the shisha, pool table and
dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.
FATCAT BAR
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

0986 495211
linkhanoi.com
4pm to late
Straddling Bia Hoi Corner
and the cobblestoned end
of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a
small establishment from the
minds behind the party and
event organisers, LinkHanoi.
The bar has tables filling the
first floor and spilling onto
the sidewalk as well as a
small loft area for lounging.
Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting
at VND500,000 and a DJ on
the decks make up the mix.
FUNKY BUDDHA
ELECTRO LOUNGE
(04) 3292 7614
8pm to late
HAIR OF THE DOG
LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE

32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
0947 893232
10am to late
HALF MAN HALF NOODLE
LATE DIVE BAR

62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3926 1943
3pm to late
IRISH WOLFHOUND
IRISH PUB
4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821
irishwolfhoundpub.com
8am to 2am
The open-air watering hole
with seating on the pavement
is a great spot to enjoy a tall
dark stout or light pilsner at
anytime, day or night. What it
lacks in gaudy decorations,
it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and
billiards on the third floor.
Has a decent food menu and
even better pizzas.
LA BOMBA LATINA
LATIN BAR
46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: 0917 245155
LE PUB
BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL
RESTOBAR
25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 2104
7am to midnight
Dark red walls and even
darker brown seating run
through the homely and
casual Le Pub, one of the few
bars in town with a regular
stream of clientele. A long
list of imported beer, Tiger
draft, a decent international
cum Vietnamese food menu,
happy hour specials and live
sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets
involved in the local community through regular events.
MAOS RED LOUNGE
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

(04) 3926 3104
MOJITO BAR
CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR

19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan
Kiem
facebook.com/mojito.bar.
lounge
Decked out in wooden panelling and bare brick, this
tastefully designed watering
whole in the Old Quarter is
known for its prize-winning
bartender and excellent
cocktails
POLITE PUB
LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3825 0959
5pm to 2am
A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest
pubs in the city, this staple
watering hole on Bao Khanh
continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi
has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals
and expats who find solace
in the nightly conversations
at the long bar, billiards and
live football matches.
ROCKSTORE
LIVE MUSIC BAR
01653 336087
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock
Cafe without the stigma and
the expensive prices. Nightly
live music or DJing events
are coupled with creative
decor, a selection of Belgian
Beer and a food menu.
SPY BAR
HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802
TEMPLE BAR
NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR

Tel: (04) 6675 7908
TET BAR
LATE-NIGHT BAR
2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 3050
THE SPOT
LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE

(04) 3935 1874
8am to midnight
CAFES
JOMA
INTERNATIONAL CAFE
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem
joma.biz
Housed in a two-storey converted, colonial-era villa, the
concept of the third Joma is
the same as at its two other
cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter,
and a great selection of
sandwiches, bagels, salads,
cakes, ice-cream and tea.
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
COFFEE/BAKERY
222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 3388
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice

of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi
in 2009. Joma contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3825 0216
7am to 8pm
MOCA CAFE
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
(04) 3825 6334
8am to 10pm
Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly
location gives Moca a large
amount of guidebook-driven
clientele. But dont let this put
you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good
WiFi and some of the best
coffee in town makes this
a great spot to while away
a couple of hours. The food
menu mixes Vietnamese fare
with sandwiches, western
and pan-Asian mains.
PUKU
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745
Open 24 hours
This spacious spot on food
street is open around the
clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along
with more eclectic Irish
nachos, cottage pies and
pan-Asian fare. Upstairs
is fit for social gatherings
and live music while the nosmoking downstairs space
is filled with people working
and socialising. Serves as
community centre, catering
both to ravenous backpackers whove just arrived off
the night train from Sapa and
locals looking to meet up.
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938
2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small a cozy caf hidden
on the quietest of Hanoian
streets. Serves and delivers
tasty baguettes, homemade
juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery

service is quick and reliable,
which makes this lunchtime
favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting
in a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

BOO SKATESHOP
SKATESHOP
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 1147
Booskateshop.com
CONTRABAND
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9891
Launched in Hanoi in 2007,
Contraband targets young
hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look
after making them ideal for
work and travel. New styles
are introduced each month
with limited production runs,
offering a sense of exclusivity.
LATELIER
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 2419
ateliervietnam.com
The downtown store of this
well-known chic boutique.
Stocks womens wear,
leather bags, shoes and
handicrafts. Offers both
ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem.
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
RECALLING HANOI
PART 11
andscape is entangled with history

and peoples lives. No matter
how young we are or what social
position we have, we all have
stories to tell.
The book I am working on, Recalling
Hanoi, is my vision of Hanoi, a tapestry
weaved out of portraits, peoples stories
and the urban landscape that hosts them.

I ask people living in the city to tell
me about a place in Hanoi that holds
memories. It can be about anything a
personal story intertwined with history; a
great event; everyday little stories that our
lives are made of. These stories, along with
the photographs of the storyteller and the
location provide depth.

Through this collection I am attempting
to create an intimate, multi-layered portrait
of this city through its collective memory.
The hope is that the audience will connect
to other peoples lives and also to their own
memories in an attempt to understand this
beautiful city.
he had become so familiar to me. We ran

into each other's arms, we had been looking
forward to that moment for such a long time.
He was very gentle and I was so happy to
be with him. Time passed by, we were in a
relationship, which lasted for nearly one year.
He was travelling from the UK to Vietnam
quite often until November 2009. Every
time he landed, I was there at the airport.
Sometimes flights were delayed. I had to wait
for hours, having coffee and looking out the
windows at all the airplanes taking off and
landing. A few times we even went to the
airport early just to spend time together.
Eventually, he decided to live in Vietnam
long term; but it didnt work out because

he didnt like Hanoi. He got depressed
and we broke up in March 2010. When he
left Vietnam for Japan in May I went with
him to the airport. He wanted to check in
as early as possible to avoid spending too
much time with me.
We kissed each other goodbye. This last
kiss was so fast and lacked emotion from
him. He was so indifferent. He told me
abruptly that he didnt love me any more
and I should never think he would come
back. It was painful. We gave each other the
last kiss and hug. They were not like the first
time they were fast and full of regrets.
Loc
In Transit
Location: Noi Bai Airport
I first saw Ashley in March 2009. He was on
his way back to Cambodia from a friends
wedding in China. He took the train and
had a quick stop in Hanoi. I saw him sitting
by Hoan Kiem Lake, so I went and talked
with him for a while.
Then he gave me his email address
because he wanted to keep in touch and
I wrote mine in his notebook. One day, I
received an unexpected email from him. We
kept on talking nearly every day for around
two months via the internet and he wanted
to come and see me.
When we saw each other again at the
airport I instantly recognised him because
hanoi
BY JULIE VOLA
Quang
Crossing the River
Location: Red River
Long Bien Bridge was once very
important, being the only link in the
city between the two sides of the Red
River. It was the only way the train
could go to Hai Phong and to the
northern provinces, and it also brought
ammunition and supplies from China.
So when they targeted the bridge with
laser-guided bombs to try to destroy
it, the train had to stop in Yen Vien or
Dong Anh stations on the other side
of the Red River. During repairs, the
army would build temporary bridges,
5km up or downstream. All the trucks
and cars would form small lines and
soldiers would show them how to

cross the river. Only having one bridge
to cross the Red River you cant
imagine it now.
The Cham ferry was very close to
where Thang Long Bridge is now, just a
few hundred yards away. It was the only
other way to cross the river. As teenagers
who had been evacuated from Hanoi,
we had to cross the Red River by ferry to
return to see our parents.
The ferry was quite big: 60 to 80
tons. All the trucks could unload onto
it. Of course it was dangerous but not
because of the ferry itself. The danger
came from the B52s if the ferry

was in the middle of the river and
the planes dropped bombs on it, we
wouldnt have stood a chance. The Red
River also posed a threat, especially
during the rainy season when it
became fierce. At those times you had
to work with the flow, moving up or
downstream just to get across, then
readjusting your course when you were
near the other side.
This is the 11th excerpt from Julie Volas
work, Recalling Hanoi. The work is
presently being serialised in Word. For more
information email juls.vola@gmail.com
hanoi
TOP EATS
MAISON DE TET DCOR CAF
he best way to overcome the

March winter blues in Hanoi
is heading indoors and diving
into a big bowl of homemade
tomato soup accompanied by a crusty
baguette, of course.
Thats how I ended up at Maison de
Tet Dcor one drizzly Sunday before Tet.
This handsome French villa on Ven Ho
Street overlooks West Lake and offers
three snugly furnished levels festooned
with local art, rustic wooden benches and
comfy cushions woven from Sapa-sourced
fabrics.
Its the fulfillment of a dream for owner
and manager Pete Wilkes, an Australian.

Since moving to Hanoi 10 years ago,
he wanted to create a community hub
where he could serve delicious, homecooked food in a relaxed and friendly
environment. But he also wanted to
employ and train disadvantaged youth to
make a larger impact.
In 2013, he opened the original Tet
Dcor Caf and from that experience he
has established his pice de rsistance
the Maison de Tet Dcor.
Aside from a mountain of freshly baked
cakes and pastries adorning the entrance
table, regulars will also notice some
new additions to the menu, including

a delicious range of soups, homemade
burgers and seasonal specialities like the
beef bourguignon in slow cooked red
wine beef stew (VND180,000) or the roast
chicken rubbed with garlic, thyme and
Dijon mustard with homemade gravy
(VND180,000).
Those seeking a lighter option may find
themselves seduced by the winter salad
(VND150,000) a refreshing combination of
pomelo, raisins, apple, rocket, almonds and
a nice, creamy goats cheese. David Mann
Maison de Tet Dcor Caf is at 36 Duong
Ven Ho, Tay Ho, Hanoi
hanoi
move to the capital has seen
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3828 6965
This shops motto Western
sizes, Vietnamese prices,
says it all. While mostly retailing womens separates
in soft cotton jersey and
linen, the store also carries a range of accessories
like embroidered canvas
totes and printed tees. Has
a good selection of unique
mens shirts.
THREE TREES
JEWELLERY
(04) 3928 8725
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang
Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 2645
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital will see
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
CAFE DE PARIS
FRENCH BISTRO
12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327
cafedeparis-hanoi.com
8am to 11pm
Thanks to its original tiled
floor, cast iron backed chairs
and wall-hung black and
white photography, there is
something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving
up a simple menu of snacks
such as quiche Lorraine,
Paris beurre and croque
monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has
a daily specials board and a
decent range of pizzas.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
Tel: (04) 3993 1399
10am to 10.30pm
A slither of a joint serving
up the same fare that the
lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an
international version of the
mighty curry they even
sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent
with masala, dopiaza, korma
and the more Goan vindaloo
taking centre stage. Also has
a good range of breads and
tandoor-cooked kebabs.
GREEN MANGO
WESTERN / VIETNAMESE
18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9916
greenmango.vn
7.30am to 11.30pm
GREEN TANGERINE
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

(04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
10am to 11pm daily
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets
you as you walk into this
French era-built villa that
houses the main section of
this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing
mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine,
blended in with Vietnamese
ingredients and cooking
styles, the resultant fare
has had customers coming
back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids
menu is also available, as is a
wine list focusing mainly on
French wines.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su,
0639
10am to midnight
LITTLE INDIA
INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE

32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 1859
littleindianhn@gmail.com
LA RESTAURANT
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 8933
8am to 10pm
The complimentary warm
bread with rosemary is
reason enough to visit this
homely spot featuring hearty
lentil and black bean soups,
along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef
tenderloin or tofu with chilli
and mushrooms. We arent
quite sure why the Miele
Guide nominated it as one of
Asias finest restaurants as
service is lackadaisical and
tables could use candles to
improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately
tasty dishes more than make
up for any quips.
goes over two floors and

has a welcome and inviting
three-level outdoor terrace
high up amid the concrete
and cables of the Old Quarter.
NAMASTE HANOI
PAN-INDIAN
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 3935 2400
namastehanoi.com
11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10.30pm
The latest newcomer to the
Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in
dishes from both northern
and southern India using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you
between VND150,000 and
VND300,000 and everything
is there, from curries and
breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or
out with a free delivery.
thekafe.vn
Spacious, casual, energetic
and beautifully designed, The
KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy
the modern urban diner.
Preparing fresh food and
drinks that show respect to
natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe,
this caf-cum-restaurant is
a popular choice for Hanois
metrosexual community.
THE MOOSE AND ROO
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,
Tel:(04) 3200 1289
Contemporary Australian
and Canadian comfort food
in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.
Best known for their Scotch
egg, poutine and burgers.
Clever changing imagery on
the walls.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
(04) 3828 9052
8am to 11pm
A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed caf
and bar with an extensive
list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well
as full courses such as
veal, and duck with currant
sauce. Known for its good,
European-style coffee and
first-floor terrace area with
views over the cathedral.
Has a second garden restaurant on Xuan Dieu.
LITTLE HANOI
21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 8333
7.30am to 11pm
MEDITERRANEO
PAN-ITALIAN
(04) 3826 6288
10am to 11pm
This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral
serves all the traditional
Italian fare you could need
homemade mozzarella
and fresh pasta, spinach
and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
boards, soups, salads and
fish. Throw in an extensive
wine list, a traditional wood
fire oven and a balcony spot
looking over Hanois trendy
caf scene and youre onto
a winner.
MILLENIUM
PAN-FRENCH
11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10pm
Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium
restaurant is the minimal
and chic result of a Caf Des
Arts makeover. The streets
new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking
OLD HANOI
GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 8337
10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm
Gordon Ramsay once filmed
a show at this restaurant in
a renovated French villa and
now the ribs carry his namesake. But its the twist on old
world favourites, think fried
snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo,
in a casually elegant setting
that make this spot near
the train tracks standout.
Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and
check the schedule for live
traditional music.
PROVECHO
TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL

0912 223966
The successor of My Burger
My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny,
multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style,
chargrilled burgers from
around VND50,000 with a
range of additional toppings
including jalapeno peppers,
smoked bacon, mushrooms,
cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also
has a good range of Tex-Mex
fare, a number of pan-Asian
dishes and a decent delivery
service.
SOUTHGATE
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 1979
southgatehanoi.com
THE KAFE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 6245
TAMARIND
CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN
(04) 3926 0580
5.30am to 10.30pm
Perhaps the only restaurant
in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesnt focus on
faux meat. Features a wide
range of juices and shakes
in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has
Asian favourites like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu
and Thai glass noodle salad,
along with some falafel and
western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will
find something to try on this
menu.
THE LOFT STOP CAF
FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES

11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
8am to 11pm
SPICE
CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT

(04) 3926 0580
TANDOOR
PAN-INDIAN
(04) 3824 5359
11am to 10.30pm
A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising
in Northern Indian cuisine.
Has an indoor and upstairs,
white tablecloth aircon
area with a more casual
dining and bar space out
front. Does excellent kebabs
served from an authentic
tandoor oven as well as the
full range of mainly North
Indian curries. Also has a
branch in Saigon and does
excellent set lunches.
ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAF
FITNESS & YOGA

STUDIO FIVE
YOGA & WELLNESS

5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04)
6263.1515
http://studio5.vn
facebook.com/yogastudio5
6am to 8pm
An international and professional Yoga Studio providing
more than 20 different yoga
styles such as: Hatha Yoga,
Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga,
Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with
infrared heater), Power Yoga
and much more, with a flexible schedule of 10 classes
per day. Bring harmony
back into your life Studio
Five is the perfect place to
reconnect your mind with
your body.
ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong
Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3923 0253
An international Yoga studio
providing classes across a
variety of levels and styles,
including prenatal and
postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai
chi. Also have a yogic shop
offering incense, yoga and
pilates mats, books, clothes,
soaps, Himalayan products
and other essential yoga
equipment.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR

BACCHUS CORNER
WINE RETAILER
1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 1393
Part of the Tan Khoa chain,
the largest liquor and wine
distributor in the country,
the walls here are lined with
a decent selection of wines,
pleasantly arrayed and back
lit. Besides their selection of
new and old world wines
Helpful staff and free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 7666
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams
ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of
the greatest wines from the
best wine-growing regions
on the planet. The portfolio
mixes the best of both old
and new world wines.
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3923 0253
hanoi
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE
SOCIETY (HITS)
hoan kiem
THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com
LESPACE
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT
PARIS DELI
B i
Triu
Hng
Hu
Phan
Chu
Trin
h
Q u
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inh Ti
n H o n g
Hng
Phng
H n g G
Hng iu
Hng
Phng
Qun
Nguy
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Trn
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Hn T
uyn
MODEL CLUB
CATWALK BAR
45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung
8pm to late
PHUC TAN
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan
Kiem
RELAX BAR
HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem
ROOFTOP
SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B
Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3946 1901
8am to midnight
TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE
ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem
tadioto.com
Located close to the Opera
House, this alternative, arty
bar is garnished in red and
white on the outside, with
warm brown and tones of
blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging
Shanghai and San Francisco,
engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the
latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.
ZONE 17
BAMBOO BAR
17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem
The first bar in what will
eventually (hopefully) be a
CAF / BOULANGERIE
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269
7.30am to 11pm
Time has been good to this
airy, bistro-style caf and
patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital,
despite its prime location
prices remain reasonable
espresso-style coffees cost
around VND40,000 and
the cakes and croissants
are moreish. Also does filled
baguettes and a larger cafcum-restaurant menu. Has a
second establishment at 13
Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
Tin
nh D
Kh
Trn
FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
6282 5555
Hoteldelopera.com
7am to 2am
La Fe Verte (or the Green
Fairy) is a metaphor for the
decadence of another age,
an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The
signature bar of the Hotel
de lOpra Hanoi where, just
as in Paris at the dawn of the
20th century, the making of an
evening drink a lavish event
of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge
atmosphere, great music and
ultra-contemporary interior
design combine to bring a
genuine sense of occasion to
after-dark in the capital.
CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem
facebook.com/bar84hanoi
Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable
sofa-like seating and grungy
decor related to a past make
up the mix at this venue put
together by the people behind Barbetta.
+84 BAR
g
Hn
WILD WEST THEME BAR

98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822
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BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
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Tel: (04) 3825 0216

7am to 8pm
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HOAN KIEM
DISTRICT
zone dedicated to bars and

restaurants. A pool table, a
square bar in the middle of
the room and a barbecue until the early hours theres
quite an atmosphere in this
pleasant watering hole.
CAFES
CIAO CAF
RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3934 1494
7am to 11pm
A stones throw from the
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
this Saigonese franchise
tries its hand with a variety
of different western dishes
at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and
a steady, young Vietnamese
crowd, the establishment is
a great place to squash a
sandwich or bowl of pasta
and people watch. Oh, and
they also do coffee, too.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,
Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
TWITTER BEANS COFFEE

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760
twitterbeanscoffee.com
CINEMAS
CINEMATHEQUE
ARTS CINEMA
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648
Not a movie theatre per se,
but a private film club that
charges a membership fee in
return for entrance to a wide
selection of movies, new and
old. The management has
an eclectic taste and shows
films from all over the world.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES

AMERICAN CLUB
EVENT SPACE
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 1850
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

Tel: (04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com
EAT
AL FRESCOS
23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
ANGELINA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
11.30am to 2.30pm and
6.30am to late (restaurant)
11am to 2am (bar)
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts of
meat to the table for patrons
to pick and choose, all for a
set price. They also offer wine
pairings, a salad bar and an a
la carte menu, with a creative
selection of fruit caipirinhas
on hand to wash it all down.
The prices arent for anyone
on a budget, but the amount
and quality of meat is more
than worth cost.
CAF LAUTREC
MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
6282 5555
6am to 10pm
Featuring both -la-carte
and buffet dining as well
as an innovative Sunday
brunch, this namesake of the
French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a
mixture of international and
Mediterranean-style fare.
Has an extensive wine list
to match the cuisine, which
is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired
environment.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
Tel: (04) 3824 7280
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contem-
porary and thoughtfully

designed space over three
floors. Already with venues
in Saigon and Bangkok, the
essence of this popular
chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay, but everything
from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to
head to El Gaucho.
JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388
alfrescogroup.com
9.30am to midnight
Then newest venture from
the team behind Jaspas
and Pepperonis is an all-day
eating and drinking lounge fit
for all occasions. It has three
floors for different vibes
lounge bar, restaurant and
boardroom but fine imported steads can be found
on each, as well as seafood
and a huge wine list. A popular venue.
JASPAS
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba
Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
6.30am to midnight
Recently refurbished, the
Australian-influenced Jaspas is known for its attentive
service, tasty food and large
portions. A place with something for everyone, it has
proved itself to be popular
with both the western and
Asian expat communities
who come back again and
again. The comprehensive
menu is a fusion of western
and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is
mainly New World. Also has
a spacious bar and lounge
area that stays open late for
all the live sport.
LA BADIANE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3942 4509
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to
10pm. Closed Sunday night.
A white-washed, colonial
era villa replete with period
wooden shutters greets you
as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.
Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or
take to the leafy covered
terrace out back with its
walls lined with art and photography from 21st century
Hanoi. The menu here mixes
modern Gallic cuisine with a
touch of Mediterranean and
Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an
extensive wine list and an
excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.
hanoi
FOOD PROMOS
WOMENS DAY IN HANOI
LE BEAULIEU
CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15
Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3826 6919
6am to 10am, 11.30am
to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to
10.30pm
LUNO DAUTUNNO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823
7338
11am to 11pm
This old-favourite Italian
uses traditional wood ovens
to prepare some of the citys
finest pizzas, which range
from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.
Set inside a large, thoughtful
space seasoned chefs also
make fresh pastas, soups
and cheeses the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights
make it well worth a visit, as
does the large wine list and
choice of desserts.
NINETEEN 11
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang
3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm
PANE E VINO
High Tea at the Sheraton Hanoi
Womens Day at
Oven DOr
The Sheratons buffet
restaurant, Oven DOr,
is putting on a spread
on Mar. 7 and Mar. 8 to
celebrate International
Womens Day. Costing
VND1.5 million++
(including a free flow
of wine, beer and soft
drinks), each lady will
be gifted a voucher for a
complimentary Afternoon
Hi-Tea Buffet for when
she next comes to the
hotel.
The Sheraton Hanoi is
at K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan
Dieu, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3719
9000 or online at sheraton.
com/hanoi
Womens Day at The

Spa
To celebrate Womens
Day on Mar. 8, the Evian
SPA HANOI is offering
a special promotion: buy

one body massage get
a free 30-minute facial
massage. You can also
spoil that special woman
in your life with other
signature treatments on
hand.
For more information, call
(04) 3333 1723 or email spa.
concierge@lotte.net
Womens Day Feasts

at Fortuna
Express your appreciation
for the women in your
life by treating them
to a tasting menu at
Emperor Restaurant.
Specially handcrafted and
prepared by head chef
Kenji, the Best Taste Menu
is available at Capital
Lounge from Mar. 2 to
Mar. 8 (VND1,600,000++
per person). A Vietnamese
three-course set menu
at the Tiffin Restaurant
(VND 280,000++/set) is
also on offer during this
period.
Fortuna Hotel Hanoi is at
6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Ha
Noi, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 ext.
6461 / 6160
Carving Buffet at
Grill 63
A new lunch option has
hit the tables at Grill 63
restaurant in Lotte Hotel
Hanoi. Running from
Monday to Friday every
week, from 11.30am
to 2.30pm, the buffet
includes a carvery station
with a great selection
of meats, all available
for VND290,000++ per
person. Youll also be able
to enjoy a stunning view
of Hanoi from the 63rd
floor.
For more information,
call (04) 3333 1501 or email
reservation.fb@lotte.net
PAN-ITALIAN
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
8am to 10.30pm
Just a stroll away from the
Hanoi Opera House and
Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart
of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves
up authentic Italian food
and has done for as long as
anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated,
oven fresh pizzas and large
variety of pasta and salad
dishes look forward to fine
food done well at this eatery
that has the feel of Europe.
Huge wine lists, friendly staff
and a loveable owner.
PRESS CLUB
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To,
0888
hanoi-pressclub.com
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm
to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday
lunch
Wooden flooring, paneling
and bold but subtle colours
pervade this traditional but
contemporary, fine-dining
70-seater venue close to
the Opera House. Serving
up quality cuisine for over a
decade, Press Club boasts
a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine
room, a library and a vast
selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four
excellent wine pairing menus,
put together through the aid
of the Press Clubs extensive
new and old world wine list.
Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.
SATINE
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414
hoteldelopera.com
WRAP & ROLL

5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza,
Tel: (04) 3824 3718
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and
bright pastel colours of
Wrap n Roll are just part
of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand
which is all about spring rolls
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with
two restaurants in Hanoi
the second in Royal City.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR

CITIMART
SUPERMARKET
Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers,
Tel: (04) 3934 2999
DA LOC
WINE RETAILER
Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3941 2789
Daloc.vn
FIVIMART
SUPERMARKET
27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
HANOI GOURMET
DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3943 1009
Hanoigourmet.com
The long-running Hanoi
Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and
artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a
look at the deli and sit down
for a light snack.
INTIMEX
VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET
22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
PANE E VINO WINE SHOP
WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
This Italian favourite with a
huge food menu also has a
huge for-retail wine list that
is 100 percent focused on
fine wines and liquors from
Italy. Owner Hoang has great
knowledge of Italian wine and
a passion to match, which is
sure to land you with the best
wine for any occasion.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04)
3943 7226
WESTERN CANNED FOODS
GROCERY STORE
Tel: (04) 3934 3854
hanoi
THE ALCHEMIST
HOUSE KEEPING
aving just moved house and

being in the process of setting up
the rooms, this quote by Rumer
Godden jumped out at me:
Everyone is a house with four rooms:
physical, mental, emotional and spiritual.
Unless we go into every room every day,
even if only to keep it aired, we are not a
complete person.
Humans are multifaceted beings, but life
sometimes pulls us too far in one direction
and as a result we wind up spending too
much time in one room. As such, other
aspects of our being are neglected; we lose
our equilibrium; we fall into disharmony
within our self and with our surroundings,
and subsequently we are not living the
wholeness of who we are.
Winds of Change
At this time on Earth, with so many
transformational energies coming in from
the cosmos, we need to ensure we spend
quality time in each one of our four rooms.
The more we connect with all aspects of our
self; the more we take time to harmonise

our various energetic bodies, the easier it
will be for us to move with ease through
the turbulent winds of change we are
experiencing.
Your House
The following has been stated many
times, but is worth repeating it is
important to create sacred time for your
self. Enter your house; spend time in
all of the rooms for they are each equally
important and represent an aspect of your
multidimensionality, your wholeness.
The physical room paradoxically may be
the easiest to relate to since it represents
our tangible, physical body however it
is often neglected. Common abuses are lack
of sleep, malnutrition and lack of exercise.
To ensure this room is well aired, it needs
to be regularly revitalised. Correcting the
above-mentioned abuses are all important,
however adequate rest is vital.
Our muscles are not the only things
we lose if not used, our mind also needs
BY KAREN GAY
regular exercise in order for this room

to stay well aired. Be a lifelong learner;
expand your mind by engaging in activities
that stimulate and regenerate your mental
capacity.
The quality of our relationships is a
reflection of our emotional wellbeing. Ways
in which to balance and harmonise your
emotional aspect are to practice empathy,
compassion and forgiveness.
Seeking the Divine in all things helps us
keep our spiritual room well aired. Spend
time in nature; engage in activities that
allow for introspection and that uplift your
spirit; bring joy to all that you do.
Embrace
Embark on some spring cleaning. Do some
dusting in each of your four rooms, open
the windows and embrace the winds of
change with the fullness of your being.
Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is
a holistic health practitioner practicing in
Hanoi. For information on the types of services
provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com
tay ho
ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES /
CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES
n
A n Dng V g
TAY HO
DISTRICT
Lc
Lo
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Qu
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Tn
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Xu
THE REPUBLIC
MODERN SPORTS BAR

7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116
republic.vn
A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery
showing live sport and boasting a convivial
atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food
menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials
and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.
hi
Ng
c Long Qun
u
Di
u
n
Ni
Thanh
Th
ARTS
WORK ROOM FOUR
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No.
49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho
workrmfour@gmail.com
workrmfour.tumblr.com
A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room
Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective
that promotes collaboration and new ideas,
exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.
BARS & CLUBS

88 LOUNGE
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029.
88group.vn
5pm to late
A wine bar with a difference, this addition to
the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes
contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle
lighting and an international aesthetic with
one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele.
Well worth a visit.
HANOI ROCK CITY
LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633
166170
hanoirockcity.com
5pm to midnight
With a downstairs, English-style pub garden
area and an upstairs space dedicated to live
music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is
the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has
weekly live events featuring bands both from
Thm
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Bi
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Ho
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Hong Quc Vit
TAY TAP
BAR & GRILL

No. 20, Lane 50/59/17, Dang Thai Mai, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917
taytap.com
Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with beer and cider on tap, this
recently relocated venue next to Da Paolo
mixes contemporary international comfort
food on the first floor with live music and an
often raucous atmosphere. Amazing West
Lake views from their top floor terrace.
Ngu
yn
Ho
ng
delivery from nearby favorites. Non-smoking,

unpretentious, dog-friendly.
Vietnam and overseas established and up

and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out
their page on Facebook.
HOUSE OF SON TINH
LIQUOR LOUNGE
31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377
sontinh.com
8am to 11.30pm
As part of the Highway 4 group, which now
has its offices in the establishments upstairs
areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted
with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed
for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly
created cocktail class. Does regular events
on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold
at other restaurants in the chain.
MADAKE
CONTEMPORARY RESTOBAR
81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665
or 0984 002181
With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar and restaurant is ideal
for those seeking a fusion of Western and
Eastern cuisine. Famed for its many weekday and weekend events, the ambient Asianstyle dcor, weekend DJ nights and general
atmosphere makes Madake a popular West
Lake go-to joint.
RED RIVER TEA ROOM
LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho
Open daily from 2pm.
Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan
Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers
a selection of international and local beers,
wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake.
Serving pies and pasties from The Cart,
Vietnamese food from Dieus next door, or
TRACYS PUB AND GRILL
SPORTS BAR/GRILL
40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
11am to 12am
This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on
the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually
crowded with regulars drinking out front
on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouthwatering burgers, cooked fresh to order,
Tracys is most famous for their draft beers,
claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in
Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those
missing their dose of North American sports,
they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.
BOOK SHOPS
BOOKWORM TOO
NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS

1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829
2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary scene since 2001. It has been
around the block quite a bit and now shares
a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over
15,000 new and second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys
used books and offers free travel advice. Has
a second shop in Tay Ho
CAFES
COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
7am to 10pm
Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town
than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for
the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea,
the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/
outdoor caf overlooking Westlake. With its
LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in
you might just forget that youre in Westlake.
hanoi
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
COFFEE/BAKERY
(04) 3718 6071
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KUB CAFE
BIKING CAFE
so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho
kub.vn
Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub
Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole
bringing thats become a favorite of the motorbike clubs.
Does good on-the-table bia
hoi and runs biking events.
SAINT HONORE
CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3933 2355
st.honorehn@gmail.com
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this
cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in
the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk
through the door. Serving
all day long, the downstairs
space is split into the bakery
on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the
other. The homely upstairs
lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating.
Simple but tasty French and
international fare is served
at meal times.
TET DCOR CAF
ART CAF & ESPRESSO BAR

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai,
Tay Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
8am to 6pm, Tuesday to
Sunday
Cloistered among the back
streets of West Lake and
sheltered from the noise of
Xuan Dieu, TET Dcor Caf is
a destination for those who
appreciate lifes pleasures:
coffee, food, art and music.
Simple and unpretentious,
the caf has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel
combined with unique and

inspiring art installations.
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam
Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938
2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small cozy caf and sandwich bar hidden away in
Nghi Tam Village. Serves
and delivers tasty baguettes,
homemade juices, quiches,
pies, muffins and cakes. The
delivery service is quick and
reliable, which makes this
lunchtime favourite ideal
for when you need to eat at
the desk.
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE

(THBC)
CAF / TAPAS BAR

44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
9am to 10pm
Tucked down an alleyway
just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not
just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a caf that also sells
Spanish tapas served up
with gin & tonic, if the mood
so takes you. Organising
bicycle tours, running yoga
sessions and holding music
concerts in their upstairs
cafe area, they also sell, rent
and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and
SURLY cycling equipment.
Eclectic? Not a chance!
CLOTHING
0912 254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese
culinary classes are offered
in these well-appointed and
clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you
through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open
air courtyard.
HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS

VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE
68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0976 848301
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BETTERWORLD
GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Fair trade or bought directly
from the artisans who made
them, Betterworld stocks
unusual handicrafts from
around the world as well as
second-hand books, DVDs
and more.
LA CASA
CONTEMPORARY DESIGN
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084
lacasavietnam.com.vn
A shop whose speciality
is designing furniture and
other household objects,
this spot has everything from
beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The
items are all locally made by
skilled artisans from Hanoi
and the surrounding regions.
MEKONG QUILTS
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
(04) 3718 6233
With new styles arriving in
store every second day, this
shop offers a huge range of
dresses, shirts, pants, skirts
and accessories in local and
imported fabrics. Clothes fit
all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure.
Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
LATELIER
CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS
GEORGES FASHION BOUTIQUE
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

(04) 3718 6758
ateliervietnam.com
Stocks womens wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique
offers both ready-to-wear
and made-to-fit clothing.
COOKING CLASSES
HIDDEN HANOI
COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel:
(Bamboo) and First (balance) bicycles and cycling

equipment. Also rent bicycles (city, MTB or touring)
and organise guided bicycle
tours under the name Urban
Discovery, with a 25-year
experienced European mechanic as part of the team.
Closed Mondays.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
(04) 3719 5322
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
COUSINS
3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel:
01238 670098
A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine
at reasonable prices in a
spacious, airy atmosphere.
Blackboards, whitewashed,
bare-brick walls, period tiles,
a well-chosen wine list and
an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the
formula.
DA PAOLO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang
Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6317
11am to 11pm
This airy, contemporary
looking Italian restaurant
next to the famed lawn chair
and coconut caf on West
Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic.
Run by the long time former
manager of Luna DAutunno,
it features scrumptious
wood-fired oven pizzas from
VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every
day for lunch and dinner,
delivery is also available.
DALUVA
BICYCLE RENTALS
3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
(04) 3718 5831
daluva.com
8am until late
A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area
on West Lake. This bar and
restaurant offers casual
dining with a classy, MiddleEastern twist, as well as
wine, tapas, events and attractive dcor.
THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE)
DONS TAY HO
DONS TAY HO
CYCLING COLLECTIVE
29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 3156
thbc.vn
A place for bicycle lovers,
THBC is the official supplier
of ORBEA, DEDA, MEKONG
CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
Monday to Friday, 10am to
late. Weekends 8am to late
This lake-facing venue with

its top floor Oyster Bar is the
work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine
connoisseur Donald Berger.
Focusing on comfort food
done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything
from wood-grilled rare tuna
steak with fragrant Chinese
black bean beurre noir to
gourmet pizza and pasta
dishes such as the likes of
Iberian pata negro ham egg
pasta served with crushed
roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range
of imported oysters and has
an extensive wine list.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
(04) 3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully
designed space over three
floors. Already with venues
in Saigon and Bangkok, the
essence of this popular
chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay, but everything
from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to
head to El Gaucho.
Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and

Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood no
problem, Lobster, Oysters,
Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams
and Crabs are all available
for your dining pleasure, as
well as an impressive array
of wines by the glass & bottle
from our
IL FARO
ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN
Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel
Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6327 1142
Hidden away in Cong Doan
Hotel, this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned
by the same people behind
Mediterraneo serves up
an assortment of French,
Spanish and Italian dishes
in a pleasant, white-washed
yet Italian-influenced atmosphere.
INDIA PALACE
NORTH INDIAN
10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel:
01247 668668
indiapalacehn@vnn.vn
Like a phoenix rising from
the ashes, so India Palace
has once again returned
to Tay Ho, this time on the
strip between Dons and The
Warehouse. Tasty North
Indian fare in a pleasant
environment from the team
behind Tandoor.
J.A.F.A.
HALIA HANOI
SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY
INTERNATIONAL
(04) 3946 0121
thehalia.com
Daily 11am to 11pm
A multi-floored venue with a
bar area and a refined dining
space. The menu includes
Singaporean specialities
such as the shrimp satay
salad and the chilli crab
spaghetti. A pan-European
classical menu mixed in with
light Asian flavours is also
on offer. Has an extensive
wine list.
HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL
CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD

Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719
9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm
to 10pm
The newest Steak & Seafood
dining experience in Hanoi.
Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the
Northern and Southern
hemispheres. Choose from
Black Angus, US Prime
INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3758 2400
7am to 11pm
One of the larger and more
comfortable bars in Hanoi,
J.A.F.A. is a great place for
drinking cocktails by the
pool. The beverages are
not the cheapest, but this is
made up for by service and
ambiance. They also have a
full menu featuring familiar
western dishes such as pizza
and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are
also offered.
KITCHEN
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE

(04) 3719 2679
hungskitchen@gmail.com
7am to 9pm
Set inside a newly renovated house with a large
courtyard, Kitchen is a great
space for eating the decent
breakfasts (check out the
breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and
the selection of international
salads. Also does a range of
Mexican dishes (available
after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy,
smoothie-style drinks.
R&R TAVERN
RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6295 8215
Now on its third location, this
watering hole still lives up to
its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter,
and of course, some quality live
rock music. Its upstairs area is
equipped with a sound system
and stage setup for weekly shows
and events, while the downstairs
area houses a classic bar that
gives a finishing touch to the
friendly community environment.
SAINT HONORE
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
3933 2355
sainthonore.com.vn
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this bakery
and French-style bistro is best
visited in the morning when that
Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through
the door. The downstairs space
is split into the bakery on one side
with a small non-smoking dining
space on the other. The upstairs
lounge area has standard tables
as well as sofa seating. Simple
French and international fare
is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien,
Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8
Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da
THE PIE SHOP
TAKEAWAY PIES
2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena
Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 1507
thepieshophanoi@gmail.com
Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style
savoury pies and rolls. Available
in three convenient sizes (mini,
regular and large). Enjoy them
hot as a takeaway, or frozen to
keep for later.
ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE
VEGETARIAN / VEGAN
247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904
356561
zenithyogavietnam.com
8.30am to 8pm
A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga
simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural
ingredients, the cuisine has no
additional additives or MSG
and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is
instead on eating whole food in
its natural state local, fresh,
seasonal and organic.
EXPAT SERVIES
MAID IN VIETNAM
HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES
Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 3112
maidinvietnam.com
Offering a licensed hire service
for trained domestic and office
housemaids, cooks and nannies.
Courses include health checks,
housekeeping, safety, basic 1st
Aid, courses for external maids

and household management for
Vietnamese wives of foreigners.
FITNESS & YOGA

ELITE FITNESS
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

3718 6281
elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment,
separate cardio and spinning
areas and an indoor swimming
pool with a retractable roof. The
spacious studios and natural
light make it a welcoming place
to squeeze in a work out, but be
prepared to pay. This place is top
of the range.
HANOI CLUB
COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823
8115
thehanoiclub.com
HANOI OIS
hanoinetball@gmail.com
Hanoi Ois Netball Club is a mixed
ability, mixed gender club for
adults wanting to enjoy team
sport while also improving fitness and developing skills. The
club plays every Tuesday from
6pm to 7pm at UNIS. Email for
more information
VIETCLIMB
CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel:
0914 143185
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find,
VietClimb is a French-owned,
200-meter climbing gym with
state-of-the-art courses. There
are 100 different climbing routes
within the gym that are changed
every few months. They offer
clinics, classes and childrens
events. Membership and group
rates are available, but be sure to
check out the three-month pass.
ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923
0253
An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety
of levels and styles, including
prenatal and postnatal classes,
restorative yoga, pilates and tai
chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates
mats, books, clothes, soaps,
Himalayan products and other
essential yoga equipment.
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS
ANNAM GOURMET
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 4487
KITCHEN ART
KITCHENWARE
6680 2770
kitchenart.vn
Kitchen Art is a little haven for

all foodies, cooks and bakers
to grow their love and passion
for cooking and baking. Come to
Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients
to cook like a chef, take part in
regular demonstrations and
workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying
the peaceful West Lake view.
L'S PLACE
GROCERY SHOP
3719 9911
NATURALLY VIETNAM
ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130
naturallyvietnam.com
Offers food and beverage
produced in Vietnam with full
traceability and strict food
safety controls. Meat, egg, milk,
fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit
juices, liquors, coffee, water,
ice cream. Also, every Saturday
from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the
team convert the store yard into
the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a
cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for
expats and Vietnamese.
PUNTO ITALIA
COFFEE MACHINES
62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6258 3510
puntoitalia.asia
Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace
or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their
own brand coffee in capsules,
ready ground or as the original
roasted mix of beans.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04)
3719 8337
THE OASIS
ITALIAN DELI
3719 1196
A great place to get all kinds of
imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads
and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of
fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a
fantastic deli and cheese case.
Free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3718 3701
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams ultimate premium wine importer,
distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest
wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The
portfolio mixes the best of both
old and new world wines.
HOLISTIC HEALTH
A-ROAMING BODYWORKER
karen@a-roamingbodyworker.
com
a-roamingbodyworker.com
Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include
craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage,
healing stones massage, as well
as energy healing including Reiki
and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops
are also available.
MEDICAL & DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC
3934 0666
Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic also
known for its quality emergency
services. Doctors and consultants
also provide a range of services
from standard GP-style checkups through to vaccinations,
paediatrics and specialist care.
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL

CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555
westcoastinternational.com
The Westcoast International
Dental Clinic is composed of
dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental
services throughout Vietnam.
The clinic provides the highest
quality technology, comfort and
after-service care to patients.
SUPERMARKETS
BIG C SUPERMARKET
222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay
CITIMART HANOI TOWERS

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung
FIVIMART
210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan
Kiem
10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh
671 Hong Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh
71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da
51 Xun Dieu, Tay Ho
93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
Online shopping: www.fivimart.
com.vn
HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET

36 Cat Linh, Dong Da
INTIMEX
22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da
17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung
27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da
METRO
126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang
Mai
Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu
Liem
hanoi
THE THERAPIST
This month
Douglas
Holwerda,
American
trained and
licensed
mental health
counsellor,
advises on how
to deal with
a creeping
neurosis
Dear Douglas,
I have been married to my wife for 10
years. She has always been serious and
responsible about how we plan and live
our lives. She is organised and prepared in
everything that she does.
Since we have moved to Vietnam two
years ago with our two young children, I
have seen a trend in her that is concerning
me. What once felt like planning ahead
has now become constant worry. My wife
is becoming anal about the details of life.
Shes got lists; she anticipates unlikely
things that could go wrong; she is often
fearful. What makes it difficult is that I
often feel like I am doing things to appease
her worry, and that they really are more
than is necessary. I have had little success
convincing her to chill out. Is there hope
that she can change this before it has a
negative impact on our children?
Worried about a worrier
Hello Worried,
You are seeing in your wife a problem that
exists for many people, and also that the
problem has an effect on those around them
(in this case you and your children). You are
wondering if there is something that can be
done, particularly since your efforts have
not been successful and you find yourself
going along with her as a way of dealing
with it.
It is quite common for family and friends
to accommodate those we love, who are
being influenced by emotions or conditions
that distort their perspective.

Distorted thinking is a by-product of
anxiety, depression, alcoholism, narcissism
and many other mental health-related
disorders. Worry is often one of the ways
that someone who has generalised anxiety
exhibits behaviours that are influenced by
that anxiety. A degree of anxiety or worry
keeps us alert and aware of how to deal
with a life that has dangers and threats. Too
much anxiety, particularly when it is not
understood as such, generates worry.
The underlying assumption of the
worrier is that they can prevent negative
outcomes by anticipating them. As the
anxiety intensifies, the effort focused on
anticipating the dangers increases to a point
where it is based on unrealistic possibilities.
People can lose the ability to make a
realistic risk assessment often with
more emphasis on the worst scenario than
on the likeliness of it happening. Because
most of the anxiety is played out in our
imagination, there is a tendency for anxiety
to create more anxiety.
It is not uncommon for parents to
experience anxiety in a way that they
havent before they first have children. The
fact that a child is dependent and needs
protection and care can feel overwhelming.
It can also be threatening to ones sense
of emotional safety when moving to and
living in a country that represents new and
different ways of living. Many people feel
disrupted and anxious when adapting to
a new place, people and culture. This can
often turn into anxiety or depression.

One of the great things in the field of
psychology is that we know more than
we ever did before, both about what it is
that defines a mental health problem, and
what it is that can be done. While it is not
always easy to overcome mood disorders
like anxiety and depression, it can be done.
In addition to therapists who are trained
to help people address these problems
there is much being written that is very
helpful both in assessing the problem and
instituting solutions.
Rather than trying to offer an abbreviated
version of the solutions to worrying, I will
send you to a website from the Center for
Clinical Interventions that will provide a
more complete understanding of what it
takes to address it. I might add that both you
and your wife might benefit from learning
about different parts of the problem.
You might read the modules on the topic
of assertiveness, which might help you
communicate with her in a balanced way
about what you are willing to do or not do
as a response to her worry. If she is open
to it, show her the modules on worrying
and ask her to see if the shoe fits. Here
is the website: cci.health.wa.gov.au/resources/
consumers.cfm
I wish wellness to you and your family.
Douglas
Do you have a question you would like
Douglass help with? You can email him at
douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details
will not be printed
hanoi
to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim
sum menus and set menus.
Reservations recommended.
ba dinh
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT /
FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

BARBETTA
ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3734 9134
ETE BAR
FRENCH LOUNGE
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 751331
10am to midnight
A favourite among those who
roam further west of the
city centre, this multi-storey
restobar has been going
strong for more than two
years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar
guarding exactly 50 different
cocktails. For many the Ete
burger is right on the mark
as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. Its always
crowded especially during the weekends. Amiable
staff, pleasant vibes.
ALTERNATIVE DANCE CLUB

18 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh
facebook.com/vaulthanoi
The work of Mao, the enigmatic personality behind
Maos Red Lounge and The
Coach House, this underground homage to nighttime
decadence sits in the gap
between The Old Quarter
and West Lake, bringing in a
range of DJs and nightly entertainment. A great addition
to the scene.
BOOKWORM
BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
CAFES
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 2247 0602
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAF
COURTYARD CAFE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh
9am to 5.30pm. Open every
day
Relax in a leafy courtyard,
air-con dining room or under
a covered roof terrace with
a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian
coffee, beer, wine or freshly
squeezed juice. Order from
a seasonally changing
menu or try one of the allday breakfast specials for
VND110,000, including juice
and coffee or tea.
MANZI
ARTS CAF & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
A stunningly designed contemporary caf and events
space that screams out the
words modern art. Housed
in a converted colonial-era
villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows
make up the mix here. Great
cuisine, too.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES

GOETHE INSTITUT
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh
Tel: (04) 3734 2251
goethe.de/hanoi
COOKING CLASSES
HANOI COOKING CENTRE
COOKING CENTRE
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HIGHWAY 4
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THE VAULT
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boo seating and a history

that screams empathy make
this eatery one of the most
popular Indians in town. Selling an international version
of the mighty curry they
even sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the
northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza,
korma and the more Goan
vindaloo taking centre stage.
Also has a good range of
breads and tandoor-cooked
kebabs.
n
Y
BA DINH
DISTRICT
Trn Nhn Tng

(04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a
school, retail outlet and caf,
where you can find classes
on not just Vietnamese
cooking, but international
cuisine, held in a beautiful
setting. They also offer culinary tours.
EAT
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
Open for over a decade,
Au Lac Do Brazil is home to
the Hanoi's best Churrasco
menu with a wide variety of
meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through
to D-rump steak and smoked
hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in
Vietnam, Passadors bring
the meat skewers to your
table, and you, the customer
then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.
Best washed down with red
wine or a Caipirinha or five.
FOODSHOP 45
MING PALACE
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3716 2959
10am to 10.30pm
Lakeside location, low bam-
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3771 6372
10am to midnight
HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT

SONG THU
(04) 3942 4448
hoasuaschool.com
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
MATCHBOX
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3734 3098
11am to 11pm
MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE
PAN-CHINESE
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
Elegant and luxurious, May
Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.
Showcasing a selection of
authentic Chinese culinary
delights and Yum Cha at its
finest, with seven private
dining rooms this is a place
PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
A fine dining destination at
the Sofitel Plaza serving
Cantonese and pan-Chinese
cuisine in a sleek modern
setting with private dining
rooms. With more than 80
dim sum selections available
along with Chinese entrees,
Mings is an ideal eatery for
those hungry for higher end
Chinese fare.
THE BISTRO
FRENCH FLAIR
2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3726 4782
thebistro.com.vn
7.30am to 9pm
A modern eatery offering
western cuisine with shades
of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink
and food deals and a warm
indoor atmosphere you
know, just how the French
do it.
FITNESS & YOGA

N SHAPE FITNESS
MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi
Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
MEDICAL & DENTAL

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE
MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
On the little street directly
below Kim Ma, with all sorts
of specialists including OB/
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT.
A Medium-sized practice
with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they
are used to treating expats.
Also a 24-hour emergency
service.

simply email us on
well try our best
hanoi
MEDICAL BUFF
ENDOMETRIOSIS AWARENESS WEEK
ar. 8 is International Womens

Day and while we use
it as a time to celebrate
the women in the world,
it is also an opportunity to focus on
womens health. Mar. 3 through to
Mar. 9 also marks Endometriosis
Awareness Week, a worldwide
initiative to support knowledge and
treatment of endometriosis, a hidden
and often painful condition that affects
approximately 1 in 10 women.
Endometriosis is a condition where
endometrial tissue is found outside the
uterus. It is trapped in the pelvic area and
lower tummy (abdomen) but can also exist
within the muscular wall of the uterus.
This is called adenomyosis. The displaced
endometrial tissue bleeds with each
menstrual cycle, creating adhesions.
If symptoms develop they typically
begin between the ages of 25 to 40. It can
be, but is not always hereditary. While
endometriosis is not a cancerous condition,
if left untreated, it becomes worse in about
4 in 10 cases.
Symptoms of Endometriosis
Killer cramps and painful menstruation.
This pain is more severe than typical period
pain, and can be so intense that the person
affected can faint. The pain typically begins
a few days before the period and usually
lasts the whole of the period. It can also
occur during ovulation
Painful intercourse
Chronic or intermittent pelvic pain and
abdominal bloating
Chronic lower back pain
Reduced fertility
Diarrhea or constipation
Headaches
More Specific Symptoms of

Adenomyosis
Other menstrual symptoms may occur. For
example, bleeding in between periods or
long and heavy periods.
Diagnosis
The symptoms caused by endometriosis
can be caused by other conditions.
Therefore, if any of the above symptoms
BY DR. ELISABETH BLANCHI
become persistent then tests are

usually advised to find the cause of the
symptoms.
Treatment
Endometriosis is typically treated with
hormone therapy, most commonly with
oral contraceptive pills, though other
hormone treatments (such as an IUD
Mirena) are also used, and in some cases,
surgery is recommended.
If you are suffering from symptoms that
indicate endometriosis, the best course
of action is to schedule an appointment
with your gynecologist to rule out other
conditions with similar symptoms, and
receive advice on treatment and the next
steps to take.
Dr. Elisabeth Blanchi is a gynecologist and
obstetrician at Family Medical Practice in
Hanoi, which also has locations in Vietnams
other major cities. For information or
assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08)
3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511)
3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively, click on
vietnammedicalpractice.com
hanoi
Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
elsewhere
A DONG PHOTO CO
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION
RECREATION
KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL
BARS & CLUBS

CAMA ATK
MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 01262 054970
Wednesday to Saturday,
6pm to midnight
With well-poured drinks, a
foosball table, no smoking
and a midnight closing time,
CAMA ATK knows exactly
what it wants to be and
thats refreshing. The space
is a part time venue for
smaller acts and DJs. The
venue is hip, comfortable
and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable
place to pull up a stool and
take pulls in a relaxed haven.
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS
CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088
VUVUZELA
MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba
Trung
CAF 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342
7.30am to 9.30pm
FRENCH GRILL
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc
Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04)
3833 5588
facebook.com/frenchgrill
Every day 6pm to 11pm
With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in
wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy
restaurant offers guests
a service experience with
crafted food difficult to find
in the capital.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3796 2647
10am to midnight
CAFES
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai
Ba Trung
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HAM HANH
ARTSY CAFE
170 Doi Can, Dong Da
The physical representation of arts, film and music
collective, The Onion Cellar,
this cafe with multiple areas
is as left field as the people
who created it.
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7.00am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
KY Y
JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386
11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to
10.30pm, closed Sunday
SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn
11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to

9.15pm
Situated in an art-deco villa
that was once owned by
a Vietnamese mandarin,
this establishment is now
owned and run by perhaps
the most famous French chef
in the country. With modestly
priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on
the dishes, which primarily
come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up
market establishment lures
in its high class customers
with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.
rant, bar and lounge blends

the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like
profiteroles with green tea
and caf fillings, a private
chefs table with a kitchen
view, and an extensive wine
list combined with modern
formal styling bring a unique
experience to Hanoi.
WILD LOTUS
CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE

55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204
potsnpans.vn
11.30am to late
Brought to you by a group of
former disadvantaged youth
from Hanois own KOTO, this
unique fine dining restau-
ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK
ALPHA LAPTOP
95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 4418
FUONG MAY ANH

5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3213 1568
NGUYEN CAU
ICE SKATING
Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen
Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936
469799
royalcity.com.vn
1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
X-FACTORY LASER TAG
HI-TECH USA
LASER TAG
77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai
Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106
x-factory-vn.com
DK COMPUTER
29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel:
3772 4772
23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan

Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261
PICO PLAZA
35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem
MEDICAL & DENTAL

POTS N PANS
SWIMMING POOL
Landmark 72 Tower, Pham
Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)
3772 3801
landmark72.com
128 Hang Trong, Hoan

Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732
FRENCH HOSPITAL
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

simply email us on
well try our best
PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER
CARE AND IT SERVICES
No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983
011081
VIETSAD
34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 8771
SWIMMING POOLS
ARMY HOTEL
33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896
FOUR SEASONS
14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong
Da. Tel: 3537 6250
HANOI CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8115
www.hanoi-club.com
HORISON FITNESS CENTER

40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3733 0808
MELIA HOTEL
Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343
OLYMPIA
4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049
SAO MAI
10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 3161
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS

CENTER
1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8888
THAN NHAN
EAT
ASAHI SUSHI
ELECTRONICS
LA VERTICALE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3944 6317
verticale-hanoi.com
Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung,

(Inside the park)
THANG LOI HOTEL

200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
hanoi
BOOK BUFF
Bookworms owner/manager Truong says that The Year of the Goat will have
two definite contenders at the top of the bestseller list. Both are by octogenarian authors who havent published in years
Go Set a Watchman
Harper Lees first novel about racism
in Americas southern states, To Kill a
Mockingbird, was released in 1960 and won
the Pulitzer Prize. Since then its been a
perennial on most major lists of the best
works of fiction from the 20th century. Her
two main characters, Scout and Atticus,
are universally admired and beloved. For
adolescent girls who wanted liberation from
the frilly shackles of 1950 expectations of
sugar and spice and all things nice, Scout
provided a hero and role model.
Before Harper Lee wrote what was
regarded as her one and only, she
apparently worked on drafts of two other
manuscripts. One was Go Set a Watchman,
which will be released as a sequel to
Mockingbird. Set 20 years after the events
of Mockingbird, it narrates Scouts return to
the town of Maycomb to visit her father,
Atticus. Other familiar characters also
reappear hopefully the mockingbird, Boo
Radley, being among them.
Should Harper Lee allow the release of her
other manuscript, titled Atticus, then public
reaction will be in the giddy stratosphere.
The Festival of Insignificance

Many in the legion of Milan Kundera fans
cut their Kundera appreciation teeth on the
sixth of his fourteen novels, The Unbearable
Lightnesss of Being, published in 1984.
Now, after a decade, his latest book will be
released and many hope that it will result
in him being awarded the Nobel Prize for
Literature given for a body of work over
a lifetime.
The French version of the new book has
already topped charts in Italy, Spain and

France where the Czech-born author has
lived for 40 years.
The books publisher describes it as wryly
comic and quite surreal and [providing]
a deeply serious glance at the ultimate
insignificance of life and politics. Its told
through the daily lives of four friends in
modern-day Paris and feels incredibly
relevant to the world we live in now.
Reviewers say that it is one of Kunderas
most significant works.
Those who want to re-immerse themselves
in The Unbearable Lightness will reacquaint
themselves with the womanising surgeon
Tomas, his anguished wife Tereza, Sabina, a
free-spirited artist who is the lover of both
Tomas and Swiss professor Franz, Tomas
estranged son Simon and Karenin the female
dog ultimately responsible for reuniting
the family when they are relocated to a
collective farm. Readers will find themselves
in 1960s Prague, from the heady days of
the Prague Spring to the aftermath of the
ensuing, spirit-crushing Soviet invasion.
An Oldie for the Neo-Libs

One of the literary icons of neo-liberalism,
Ayn Rand, is very popular with lots of
business studies-inclined Vietnamese
readers, and it wont surprise us if a new
edition of her 1935 novella Anthem tops the
Bookworm bestseller list.
Anthem is a dystopian opus less than 100
large-print pages long. It takes place in an
unnamed place in the future and fulfills
all our deepest dreads about having our
individuality and freedom of choice usurped
by a dominant power. In fact, the use of I or
ego is punishable by death, and people have

numbers rather than names.
As in all her fictional works, Rands
heroes expound the central principles of
her philosophy of objectivism, in which she
proposes that the proper moral purpose of
life is the pursuit of ones own happiness, and
that the only proper moral social system is the
one embedded in laissez-faire capitalism.
A Severed Head for Younger

Readers
A recently released book, Noggin, will
really go down well with teenage readers.
Travis is 16 and dying of leukemia when
he decides to have his head cryogenically
frozen after he dies, so that, at a later date,
it can be sewn onto a donor body.
That later date happens within five years,
and Travis becomes conscious in hospital
not too long behind the times.
Its a funny, enormously entertaining
read, and because things like head
transplants are a possibility, because the
medical terms used sound believable,
because cryogenics is already a thing and
because the future portrayed is not too far
off, young readers will be engrossed.
It encapsulates enough youthful romance
to make the present enjoyable, and a hint of
an optimistic future where medical research
may make youthful cancer deaths a thing of
the dim, dark past.
And it has a worthwhile message that
you should try and live in the present,
while also realising that the future isnt too
far away.
For more information on Bookworm go to
bookwormhanoi.com
Ho Chi Minh City

BUSINESS BUFF // JOB SEARCH // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS A //
THE EMPTY WOK // TOP EATS B // STUDENT EYE // A WORLD OF GOOD
Francis Xavier
W HAT S
A modern Vietnamese girl in the middle of an

old decaying building, reminiscing about the
past. Saigon is battling between old and new.
HCMC
business
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES /
EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE /
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS /
RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING
PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS
Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796
pwc.com
SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES
6th Floor, Me Linh Point

Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
0938 220 255
vivianwcooper@gmail.com
TMF GROUP
Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon

Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910
2262
Tmg-group.com
ADVERTISING & MKTG

BBDO VIETNAM
74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 6662
bbdoasia.com
COWAN STRATEGIC BRAND

DESIGN
16th Floor, Bitexco Office

Tower, 1925 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064
cowandesign.com
GREY GROUP
led communications company helps brands connect

and grow across Southeast
Asia. Clients include The
CocaCola Company, Asia
Pacific Breweries, Piaggio
and UPI.
404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)

3929 1450
grey.com/vietnam
PURPLE ASIA
DENTSU VIETNAM
AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005
Dentsu.com.vn
INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA
Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3740 6388
industrialdesignasia.com
MARKETEERS VIETNAM
FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh

Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933
3493
marketeersvietnam.com
OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower,
7274, Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821
9529
ogilvy.com
PHIBIOUS
7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia

Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933
3377
phibious.com
An independent, creative
9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh

Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050
purpleasia.com
RED | BRAND BUILDERS
Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45

Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820
0169
red.vn
Long-established branding
consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team
creates and shapes unique
marketing strategies that
add impact to international
and local brands from Vietnam to Australia.
RIVER ORCHID
10th Floor HDTC Building,
36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 2538
riverorchid.com
SAATCHI & SAATCHI

26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08)
3824 1207
saatchi.com
Ranked among the top 100
global advertising agencies,
S&S has worked with over
half of the 50 bestknown
brands in the world, providing advertisement planning,
direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic
design.
TBWA\VIETNAM
4th Floor, Saigon Finance
Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315
tbwa.com.vn
BUSINESS CONSULTING
BDG VIETNAM
11th Floor, Capital Place, 6
Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 7858
Bdg-vietnam.com
CONCETTI
33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3911 1481
Concetti.vn
GRANT THORNTON
28th Floor, Saigon Trade
Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100
Gt.com.vn
INSPIRED IMAGE
Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu
Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
0916 352573
Inspiredimage.co.uk
PRISM INFORMATION
TECHNOLOGY SERVICES
4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 7305 0905
prism.com.vn
ROUSE
6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58
Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 6770
iprights.com
STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3911 0965
starcorpvn.com
STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:
0904 410884
TRACTUS ASIA LTD

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6291 2205
tractus-asia.com
XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
BUSINESS GROUPS
AMCHAM
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
amchamvietnam.com
An independent association
of American and international businesses, the objective
of the American Chamber of
Commerce in Vietnam is to
promote trade and investment between the United
States and Vietnam.
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

2nd Floor, Eximland Building,
179EF Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
auschamvn.org
A licensed foreign busi-
ness group established to

represent and promote the
interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam,
AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions,
governmental relations
meetings and charity events.
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF

VIETNAM
3829 8430
bbgv.org
CANCHAM
Room 305, New World Hotel,
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the
Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business
associates together and to
facilitate discussion forums
about business in Vietnam.
NORDCHAM
17th Floor, Petroland Tower,
12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08)
5416 0922
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP

VIETNAM
40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
pbgvn.com
SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy
Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6996
swissvietnam.com
HCMC
CINEMAS
Showcasing the latest
Hollywood blockbusters
and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as
Megastar Media, Lotte
and Galaxy Cinema offer
the most up-to-date and
modern cinema-going
experiences in Saigon.
For those partial to more
esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and
Idecaf carry little known
Vietnamese and European
efforts.
CINEBOX
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10
Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
LOTTE CINEMA
13th Floor, Diamond Plaza,
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 38227897
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469
Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7
Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com
GALAXY CINEMA
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Tel: (08) 3920 6688
116 Nguyen Du, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 5235
246 Nguyen Hong Dao,
Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1
Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn
MEGASTAR CINEMA
Level 5, Crescent Mall,
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My
Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5412 2222
Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A
Truong Son, Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 6297 1981
Level 5, Parkson Paragon,
3 Nguyen Luong Bang,
Phu My Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5416 0088
megastar.vn
EVENT MANAGEMENT
CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS
Tel: 0906 761190
centerpiece-vn.com
info@centerpiece-vn.com
Centerpiece is an independent event planning company
run by expatriates that can
plan any event from private
parties, to corporate events
to weddings.
EVECOO
Tel: 0988 297990
evecoo.vn
GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6048
galaroyale.com.vn
ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD

268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan
Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880
THE CATERERS
46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel:
(08) 3812 6901
thecaterersvietnam.com.vn
Offers everything from canaps and cocktails, buffets
and set menus to barbeques
and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event
management and exclusive
venues to make any kind of
event a success.
EXPAT SERVICES
AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD

14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364
ambrij.com
ENDO
406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh,
Tel: (08) 6292 2045
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.
COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM

Bitexco Office Building, 7th
Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665
colliersmn.com/vietnam
CREATION
International Plaza Building,
Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu
Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553
CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom
Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 7968
cushmanwakefield.vn
EASY SAIGON
Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is
a useful real estate website
helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.
Enquiries via their website
are welcome.
CHUMS HOUSE
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

3920 7237
HAPPY HOUSE
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701,

Q1, Tel: 01659 419916
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu

Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
HOUSING & REAL ESTATE

CBRE
12th Floor, Me Linh Point
Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 6125
cbre.com
JONES LANG LASALLE

CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES
Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory,

Research and Consulting,
Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency,
Industrial Agency, Project
and Development Services,
Property Asset Management
Services, Hotel Investment
and Consultancy Services,
Integrated Facilities Management.
26th Foor, Saigon Trade

Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968
joneslanglasalle.com.vn
Jones Lang LaSalle
(NYSE:JLL) is a professional
services and investment
management firm offering specialized real estate
services to clients seeking
increased value by owning,
occupying and investing in
real estate. As a truly global
firm, they work and collaborate closely with their
colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to
bring best-in-class services,
people, and systems to their
clients in Vietnam.
Their offices in Ho Chi Minh
City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant
KNIGHT FRANK
Suite A, level 7, VTP Office
Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6777
knightfrank.com.vn
Founded in 1896, Knight
Frank has grown to become
the worlds largest privately
owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial,
residential and residential
development services.
advisory and other services.
Iglobalassist.com
james.pruss@aol.com
SNAP
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Caf in District 2, Snap offers a web
based real estate search
service with information on
rental properties all around
the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse
to wading into the internet
depths for their needs.
SOTHEBYS INTERNATIONAL
REALTY
Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 2000
sothebysrealty.com.vn
THE NEST
369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc
Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901
thenest-vietnam.com
Wellknown property
search and real estate
agency with a useful website
listing properties available
for rent and sale, orientated
towards expats. Website is in
English, French and Spanish.
INSURANCE
BAOVIET INSURANCE
49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661
baoviet.com.vn
IF CONSULTING
IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A
Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 7362
insuranceinvietnam.com
Independent advisors that
represent top reputable
medical insurers provide
you with the best suitable
medical cover for individual,
family or company needs.
NAMHOUSE CORPORATION
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental
properties, constructions
and interior decoration,
especially in District 2. Supports professional services
and aftersales.
SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor,
81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 9205
savills.com.vn
Savills Vietnam is a leading
property service provider
in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory
services, residential sales,
commercial leasing, asset
management, retail advisory, valuation, investment
IGLOBALASSIST
BLUE CROSS VIETNAM

8th Floor, River View Tower,
7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08)
3821 9908
inquiry@bluecross.com.vn
www.bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part
of the Pacific Cross group
of companies with over 60
years experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.
Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable
service means they are the
strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are
getting the most out of your
insurance contact them for
a free quote.
LIBERTY INSURANCE
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3812 5125
libertyinsurance.com.vn
PRUDENTIAL
25th F, Saigon Trade Centre,
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 1660
prudential.com.vn
TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES

181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 5367
ten-pac.com
A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of
insurance solutions from the
best local and international
providers. Recommendations are based exclusively
on client needs.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
(ABCIS)
Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833; Saigon South
Campus 2 (Foundation Stage
& Early Primary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833
theabcis.com
Rated as outstanding by
British government inspectors, academic results puts
ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide.
Provides education for two
to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.
BIS provides a British style

curriculum for an international student body from
pre-school to Year 13. The
school is staffed by British
qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by
the Council of International
Schools and a member of
FOBISIA, BIS is the largest
international school in Vietnam.
CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
13C Phong Phu Commune,
Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412
3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam
serves local and foreign
students from Kindergarten
to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the
internationally recognised
Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting
academic excellence.
CITYSMART
Horizon Tower, 214 Tran
Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3526 8833
7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational
programmes, as well as life
skills and character building
for comprehensive development.
AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (AIS)
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744
6960; Thu Thiem Campus,
264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West
Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International
School is an IB World School
with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering
an international education
from kindergarten to senior
school with the IB Primary
Years Programme (PYP),
Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE)
and IB Diploma Programme
(DP).
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (BIS)
Tel: (08) 3744 2335
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved
by the British Government,
EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS)
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao
Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam.
Tel: (08) 7300 7257
info@eishcmc.com
www.eishcmc.com
Located in the heart of Thao
Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School
Ho Chi Minh City offers a
supportive and challenging
academic education from
Early Years to Grade 12
based on the IB curriculum.
EIS is a Nobel Talent School
and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school
educates global citizens to
enjoy learning, inquiring and
caring for others.
GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF

VIETNAM
Somerset Chancellor Court,
1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
7008
gymboreeclasses.com.vn
HCMC
BUSINESS BUFF
ATTACK OF THE MEN
BY SHANE DILLON
WHO, women in Russia live on average 12

years longer than men, a larger difference
than anywhere else in the world. The
only countries that come close are other
former states of the Soviet Union. It is this
difference in life expectancy that makes
the population in those states particularly
female.
War and Genocide in Rwanda,

Cambodia and Iraq
Disruptive events such as wars and
genocides show in the data as well. Since
they tend to claim more mens lives than
womens, the populations sex ratio
usually shifts female.
The Homogenous Top
read a report this month regarding

global population statistics and saw
an interesting fact: Men currently
outnumber women worldwide by 60
million people. So this month I delved
into the reasons why and found out
some interesting things regarding male/
female population numbers in different
countries.
In 2013, 49.59 percent of the global
population was women. 81 countries had
a majority of women, 37 countries had a
majority of men, 75 were within 0.5 percent
of gender parity.
Left to nature alone, the population on
earth would be give or take 50 percent
men and 50 percent women, according
to whats become known as Fishers
Principle. The fact that women generally
live longer is compensated by the fact of
more boys being born than girls (107 boys
per 100 girls in 2013).
In 1961, the earliest year the World Bank
provides data, the world was within 0.09
percentage points of a perfectly equal
distribution. Ever since, the gap has
widened; the following are the reasons
why.
India and China

Even though a majority of countries have
more women than men, the most populous
countries in the world are also highly
imbalanced towards men: China has nearly
50 million more men than women, India
43 million, which is why there is a male
surplus worldwide.
Gender imbalance starts at birth.
Both China and India are infamous for

widespread gender selective abortions
and female infanticide. Both countries
have birth sex ratios that are well off
the worldwide average. In 2013, China
saw 1.11 boys born per girl and India
1.12, as compared to 1.07 worldwide.
The availability of affordable prenatal
diagnostic techniques has only accentuated
the trend, which means the gender gap in
the general population is bound to widen
in the coming years, as more balanced
older generations pass away.
Migrant Workers on the Arabian

Peninsula
The most gender imbalanced states
in 2013 were all found on the Arabian
Peninsula, Qatar being the most extreme.
Less than one-quarter of all people who
lived in Qatar in 2013 were women. Those
countries have attracted a lot of migrant
workers for male-dominated industries,
especially after oil prices started rising in
the 1970s and the industry grew. Millions
of men, mostly from South Asia, came
to work on the Arabian Peninsula, but
werent allowed to bring their spouses and
children with them, thus throwing gender
ratios off balance.
Russian Drinking
The former Soviet states are notorious
for mens short life expectancy, which
is largely attributed to alcohol-related
deaths. Strikingly, Russia currently has
more than twice as many women than
men above the age of 65. According to the
One of the strongest predictors of a

countrys sex ratio is how developed it
is. Highly developed countries tend to
have more women in their population.
13 of the top 15 countries in the Human
Development Index (which measures
health, education and prosperity) have a
female population above 50 percent.
African Balance
Africas population is more gender
balanced than any other continents was
in 2013. In fact, a majority of countries in
Africa has both genders within 49.5 percent
and 50.5 percent of the total population.
The Americas
Mass emigration from Mexico to the US
starting in the 1990s significantly changed
the sex ratio in Mexico. Between 1990
and 2010, more than 7.5 million Mexican
immigrants crossed the border to the
US. Since more men than women left
Mexico, the ratio of women in the Mexican
population rose sharply.
Hong Kong Single Ladies

Hong Kong, Sri Lanka, and Nepal are
the countries that have seen the strongest
move towards a more female population
over the past five decades. The share of
women in Hong Kongs population has
skyrocketed from below 48 percent in
1980 to over 53 percent in 2013, from one
of the lowest in the world to one of the
highest. Two diverging migration patterns
have led to this: emigration of mostly
men to mainland China, and an influx of
mostly female domestic workers from the
Philippines and Indonesia to the island.
Shane is interested in interesting things.
He can be contacted at shanedillon@
bluecross.com.vn
HCMC
LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN
102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052
lgkids.vn
Energized Engaged Empowered
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI

MINH CITY (ISHCMC)
MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL

(08) 3898 9100
admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn
www.ishcmc.com
The most established international school in HCMC,
ISHCMC recently celebrated
20 years of success. A fully
accredited IB World School,
authorised to teach all three
programmes of the International Baccalaureate curriculum to students aged 2
to 18 years, ISHCMC is fully
accredited by both the Council of International Schools
(CIS) and the New England
Association of Schools and
Colleges (NEASC), two of the
most prestigious international accreditation organisations. Has over 1,000 students from over 50 different
nationalities.
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage childrens engagement with their
surroundings, MIS offers
children from age three to 12
a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of
extracurricular activities.
RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL SAIGON
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7,
Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext
120/121/122
renaissance.edu.vn
Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum
based upon the British curriculum complemented by
the International Primary
Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a
family school with first-class
facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool,
mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and
drama rooms, science labs
and an all-weather pitch.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON

PEARL (ISSP)
SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL

CHILDCARE CENTRE

Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788
admissions@issp.edu.vn
Set in a purpose-built campus, International School
Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an
elementary school catering for ages 18 months to
11 years. With 90 percent
of their teachers having
masters degrees, they are
able to promise a vigorous
American curriculum while
including specialist subjects
such as music, art, sport and
languages.
15 Street 12, perpendicular

to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
3740 8081
saigonkidskindergarten.
com
SKECC has evolved over 10
years to create a creative,
playful learning environment for children ages two
to six. Limited class sizes and
highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for
all students.
KIDS CLUB SAIGON

79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7;
27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5412 5944
kidsclubsaigon.com
Early childhood centres in
Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes
for children ages two to five.
Known for unique facilities,
experienced staff, highquality learning resources,
and small class sizes.
KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE

Crescent Residence 2, 107
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907
099 480
kindermusik-vietnam.com
SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (SSIS)
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from
elementary to high-school,
emphasizing a multicultural
student environment and a
commitment to wellrounded
education at all levels.
programmes to create a
stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes
allow experienced teachers
to cater to individual needs.
SMARTKIDS
1172 Thao Dien Compound,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare
centre provides children
ages 18 months to six years
with a high quality education
in a playful and friendly environment.
Residential Area No. 5,

Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge
International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates
Montessori methods into
nursery and kindergarten
ILA VIETNAM
146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3521 8788
ilavietnam.com
A foreign-owned education
and training company that
offers a range of educational
programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes,
corporate training, teacher
training and overseas study
consultancy and placement
services.
LATELIER
33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492
latelier-anphu.com
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN
172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,

Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
tas.edu.vn
135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van,

Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670
771
vietnameselanguagegarden.com
VAS
98 Cach Mang Thang Tam,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278
vas.edu.vn
INTERIOR DESIGN
PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND
REMODELING
Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren
Hawk)
Thinking about upgrading a
bathroom? Perhaps a new
colour in the living room?
Maybe even a new wood
floor? Professional Painting
and Remodeling can help
with these and many other
projects. Provide international standards of quality
as well as professional and
timely service at reasonable
rates. Call today to schedule
a free evaluation.
INVESTMENT & FINANCE

DRAGON CAPITAL
1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo

Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
9355
dragoncapital.com
THE ETHICAL
INVESTMENT GROUP
27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0907
ethicalinvestmentgroup.
co.uk
TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT
66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623
t-wm.com
VINACAPITAL
SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower,

3821 9930
vinacapital.com
A leading investment fund
management company with
extensive experience in the
emerging Vietnam market.
Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which
is a US$839 million investment fund.
VLS SAIGON
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging
from basic conversational
Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and
advanced levels, as well as
special courses including
Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival
crash course.
VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE

TRAINING & TRANSLATION
37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6678 0914
vnccentre.com
VUS
189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800
vus-etsc.edu.vn
LEGAL SERVICES
ALLENS
Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29
Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
1717
vietnamlaws.com
BAKER & MCKENZIE

12th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3829 5585
bakermckenzie.com
FRASERS LAW COMPANY

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The
Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733
frasersvn.com
GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8599
gide.com
INDOCHINE COUNSEL
Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam

Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 9640
indochinecounsel.com
MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3822 8860
mayerbrownjsm.com
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
EMBERS ASIA
80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728
embers-asia.com
ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288
erci.edu.vn
G&H
6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919
ghmsglobal.com
A 100 percent foreigninvested company focusing on
management services and
consulting with inhouse
programmes to meet the
particular requirements of
its clients. Offers teambuilding and academicbased
business and management
programmes.
XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911
0454
xageconsulting.com
MARKET RESEARCH
CIMIGO
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727
cimigo.vn
An independent marketing
and brand research specialist operating in the Asia
Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes,
knowledge management,
developing marketing plans
and business models and
assessing market opportunities.

com
MEKONG RESEARCH

Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314
mekongresearch.com
NIELSEN
CentrePoint Building, Level

4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088
vn.nielsen.com
TNS VIETNAM
3930 6631
Tnsvietnam.vn
With over 11 years in the

marketplace, TNS Vietnam
offers all three major market
research services customisation, access panels
and media monitoring to
a range of local and international clients.
PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES
DRAGON IMAGES
Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660
dragonimages.asia
Dragon Images production
studio is a professional team
of photographers, stylists.
shooting administrators,
casting managers and retouchers. They make photos
on various topics, from business to sport.
PUBLIC RELATIONS
MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS
Level 5, 273-273B Ben
Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 5517
matterhorncommunications.com
Providing public relations
and communications support to international and
local firms operating in
Vietnam. Specialising in
corporate communications,
media relations, corporate
social responsibility and
media and issues management and training.
VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462
veropr.com
Helps clients expand their
footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective
public relations campaigns.
Services offered include
branding, media relations,
event management, public
affairs and issues / crisis
management.
RECRUITMENT & HR
ADECCO VIETNAM
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26
- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3430
adecco.com.vn
Adecco is the world leader in
human resources solutions.
Established in Vietnam in
2011, Adecco offers a wide
array of global workforce
solutions and specialises in
finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.
HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

1st Floor, Thien Son Building,
5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com
HCMC
JOB SEARCH
GROWING VIETNAMS WORKFORCE
lthough having a relatively low

unemployment rate compared to
other countries in Asia, Vietnam
is facing a tough challenge
with its younger workforce. By the end
of 2014, 6.3 percent of youths between
the ages of 15 to 24 were out of a job;
which is even more alarming when 20.75
percent of fresh graduates (aged 20 to 24)
are unable to find work.
However, 62 percent of companies in
Vietnam stated difficulties in filling jobs in
2014. This talent mismatch will continue
to damage the economy, leading to poor
prospects for millions of families, missed
innovation and a shortfall in growth.
Urgent actions by both the government and
business are needed to address these issues.
Competitiveness
In the latest release of the Global Talent
Competitiveness Index 2014, produced by
Adecco Group, INSEAD and Singapores
Human Capital Leadership Institute,
Vietnam is ranked 75 out of 93 countries.
Measuring each countrys performance in
six areas, or pillars, the GTCI focuses on
how countries produce and acquire talent
(input), and the quality and type of skills
that are available for the labour market as a
result (output). Though it has a high score in
innovation and entrepreneurship, Vietnam
performance in developing its own talent
via formal education and lifelong learning is
quite low. This can create a wider skills gap
for the country in the future.
Issues with formal training are also
reflected in the productivity of the

Vietnam workforce. A report released by
the International Labour Organization
in 2014 put Vietnams productivity at
1/15 of Singapore and 1/6 of Malaysia.
Proper training is one of the main
reasons for Vietnams low productivity
as less than 20 percent of the workforce is
properly trained, thus unable to meet the
requirements of the labour market.
In another survey of 200 businesses in
Central Vietnam, the respondents revealed
that most graduates from vocational
schools did not meet their requirements.
The Role of Education

As growing talent is critical to being
talent-competitive, Vietnam needs more
investment in formal education. Despite
its dramatic growth for enrolment at
tertiary level over the past decade from
10 percent in 2000, to 16 percent in 2005
and 25 percent in 2013 the number of
teachers remains essentially unchanged.
This is despite recent increases in
budgetary allocations, liberalised private
sector involvement and the encouragement
of foreign participation in education and
training services.
Foreign provision will not, however,
solve the problem of under-capacity
or poor teaching standards. A report
by Harvard Ash Institute at Kenney
School also pointed out that Vietnamese
universities are not producing the educated
workforce that Vietnams economy and
society demand. Surveys conducted
BY NICOLA CONNOLLY
by government-linked associations
have found that as many as 50 percent
of Vietnamese university graduates
are unable to find jobs in their area of
specialisation, evidence that the disconnect
between classroom and the needs of the
market is large.
As such, in developing its own talent,
Vietnam also needs to expand beyond
formal education into boosting lifelong learning and growth opportunities
linked to professional experience. This
is essential to ensure that employers
have access to the skills they need.
Previous research by Adecco found that
countries with established systems of
work-based vocational training, such as
Switzerland, Germany and Austria, have
been most successful in tackling youth
unemployment, a key indicator of the
talent mismatch. The current rate of youth
unemployment in Germany stands at 7.6
percent, compared to the European average
of 23 percent.
Temporary work and internships can
help young people to take their first step
onto the career ladder or into a permanent
position. In companies like Adecco, young
people are being exposed to higherlevel job skills through programmes like
one-month work placements in large
companies across the world. In Adeccos
experience, 52 percent of these placements
received job offers at the end of the period.
Nicola Connolly is the general director
of Adecco Vietnam and chairwoman of the
European Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam
HCMC
G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM
CO., LTD.
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur,
District 1, HCMC.
Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th
Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba
Dinh District, Hanoi.
www.vieclambank.com
info@vieclambank.com
VieclamBank is a brand of
G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a
Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established
in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting
executive and senior level,
providing Vietnamese and
Japanese candidates with
experience studying abroad
or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective
and competitive service
suitable for many types of
business.
VIETNAMWORKS.COM
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
RELOCATION AGENTS
3840 4237
crownrelo.com
JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is a leader in the field.
LOGICAL MOVES VIETNAM

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international,
local, domestic and office moves for household
goods and personal effects
through our global partner
network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not
have documentation.
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM)
5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices
globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.
ALLIED PICKFORDS
12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices
in over 45 countries, Allied
Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also
provides tailored relocation
services.
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY

Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower,
9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12,
District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3
826 7799
www.asiantigers-mobility.
com
Asian Tigers is one of the
largest regional move management specialists, with
services including door-todoor moving, housing and
school searches, local and
office moves and pet relocations.
CROWN RELOCATIONS
2nd Floor Coteccons Office
Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien
Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
8FL, Thien Son Building, 5

Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers
local and international
moving, pet transportation, relocation services
including home search, orientation, cultural training,
immigration services and
records management. Email
Vietnam@santaferelo.com
for info.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT
656 Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587
camlyapartment@hcm.
vnn.vn
DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES

No 01 Street No.104-BTT,
Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,
Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08)
3742 5678
enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury
Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from
two to four-bedroom units
with spectacular panoramic
views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite
bathrooms, separate work
and living areas, a balcony,
modern amenities, elegant
furnishings and carefully
chosen trimmings.
CITYVIEW

3822 1111
cityview.com.vn
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON RESIDENCES
Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon youll
find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The
residences offer panoramic
views of the downtown area.
NORFOLK MANSION
1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished
accommodation with attentive and discreet service.
Facilities include an outdoor
swimming pool, a gym, sauna
and steam room, as well as
two on-site restaurants.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
(08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank
hectares, Riverside Apart-
ments combines a resort

lifestyle with the amenities
of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from
downtown by high-speed
boat shuttle.
SEDONA SUITES
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9666
sedonahotels.com.sg
SHERWOOD RESIDENCE
127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3823 2288
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a
luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime
location, comfort and class,
with fivestar facilities and
service.
with separate living and

dining areas, as well as a
fully equipped kitchen where
guests can prepare a meal
for themselves, their family
and friends.
THE LANDMARK
5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2098
thelandmarkvietnam.com
65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a
comprehensive health club
for tenants and members,
a squash court and a 16th
floor swimming pool.
AIRLINES
AIR ASIA
www.airasia.com
AIR FRANCE
130 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3825 8583
www.airfrance.com.vn
AIR MEKONG
1st Floor, Centre Point
Building, 106 Nguyen Van
Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: (08) 3846 3999
www.airmekong.com.vn
AMERICAN AIRLINES
194 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330
www.aa.com
CATHAY PACIFIC
SERVICED APARTMENTS
SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES
SCORE-TECH
8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C
Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
Somerset Chancellor Court,
Somerset Ho Chi Minh City
and Somerset Vista Ho Chi
Minh City serviced residences combine the space
and privacy of an apartment with the services of a
top-rated hotel. They come
260 TTH21, Tan Thai Hiep,

Q12, Tel: (08) 3711 9958
A 100 percent foreigninvested company offering
personalised sport garments. Using the latest printing technology as well as a
design team from Barcelona,
Score-Tech controls the
whole production process
from producing fabrics and
sewing to printing. Big and
small orders of garments
produced for all sporting
needs.
5th Floor, Centec Tower,

72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3
Tel: 3822 3203
www.cathaypacific.com/
vn
CHINA AIRLINES
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Tel: 3911 1591
www.china-airlines.com
JAPAN AIRLINES
3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3821 9098
www.vn.jal.com
JETSTAR PACIFIC
www.jetstar.com/vn
KOREAN AIR
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3824 2878
www.koreanair.com
LAO AIRLINES
93 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: 3822 6990
www.laoairlines.com
MALAYSIA AIRLINES
Ground Floor, Saigon
Thang, Q1
Tel: 3829 2529
www.malaysiaairlines.
com
SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Saigon Tower Bulding,
Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3823 1588
www.singaporeair.com
THAI AIRWAYS
29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3822 3365
www.thaiairways.com.vn
TIGER AIRWAYS
www.tigerair.com
VIETJETAIR
www.vietjetair.com
VIETNAM AIRLINES
27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
Tel: 3832 0320
www.vietnamairlines.com
HCMC
BODY
AND
TEMPLE
THE UNHEALTHY NORMAL
n todays society you should

be striving to be as abnormal
as possible. The norm is now
the unhealthy, the norm is
now over-fat, the norm is now
contracting a chronic disease and
the norm now does not know
how good it feels to be fit and to
move freely.
What is normal for the human
body? The normal should be
optimal function or the body as
a system working the way it is
designed to work. Yet I think the
norm is far from that these days.
It is staggering to think that
two of every three people are
overweight, one in three people
will get cancer in their lives, nine
out of 10 individuals who develop
lung cancer are smokers and one
in 10 have type 2 diabetes. In the
US, which tracks such statistics,
coronary heart disease is the
leading cause of death; it killed
more than one in every four who
died in 2006.
The really sad thing is these
statistics are only growing and
chronic diseases are affecting
younger and younger people.
And all of the above diseases
are classified as largely
PREVENTABLE.
It is now almost normal to be
unhealthy, out of shape and sick.
Is this now the new expectation?
The accepted state of living? Are
these statistics really the numbers
you want to live by? If you are
fit and healthy are you now the
extraordinary?
The Lunar New Year has
begun and its time to take a look
at yourself and the state of our
relationships with food, movement
and health. Simple actions are all
it would take to have tons more
energy, feel amazing and look ten
years younger. There are a number
of clear trends the have influenced
this normal unhealthiness. Here
are the ones to really look out for:
their workout, but then go on to have a

more sedentary week than non-gym users.
Consider that the average workout is 600
kcals (two times per week = 1,200 calories)
and walking to work for a half-hour every
day will burn 150 kcals each way (10 times
per week = 1,500 calories). Simply stand
and move it will make all the difference.
Avoid Good Fats

Good fats are essential to health and fat
loss. They provide healthy Omega-3 fatty
acids, vitamins K, D and E and help to train
your body to use fat as a fuel. It is again
no coincidence that obesity rates started to
skyrocket after the Low-Fat Guidelines (the
food pyramid) was introduced. Guess what
the fat was replaced with sugar!
Get More and Better Sleep
The Social Weight Gainer

Here in Vietnam, as in many cities and
countries, the social activities strongly rotate
around food and alcohol. These graphs
illustrate the trend that the more social the
event (larger number of people) the more
calories are likely to be consumed up to
a whooping 72 percent more! Other studies
found that people are consuming more
calories at the weekend than during the week.
Are your social outings ruining your fat loss
and fitness desires?
Avoid Sugar at All Costs

In the 1980s, the obesity
epidemic really took off. Is it
any coincidence that the trend
line for sugar increase and
obesity percentage escalation is
almost exact?
BY PHIL KELLY
Move More
Sitting is killing us get up and simply move!
150 calories every day makes a difference.
Many people visit a gym twice per week for
Sleep is now considered the fourth

macronutrient. It is extremely important
for both fat loss and health. A number of
my clients suffer from sleep apnea, once
we diagnose and treat the issue they feel
like their quality of life has improved out of
this world. Even without a sleep issue, the
average sleep quantity has reduced by two
hours over a 40-year period between 1960
and 2000.
What might be more important is
the deterioration of sleep quality. The
use of electrical devices in the evening,
sitting under strong artificial lighting,
not sleeping in total darkness and noise
pollution all greatly influence restful and
restorative sleep.
Individuals often see food as a treat,

especially with children. The next time
you feel like treating yourself or your child
with a soda or sugary food, think about
these statistics and ask yourself do you
want to be normal or extraordinary?
Phil is founder and master trainer at Body
Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763,
at bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star
Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)
HCMC
downtown
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING &

ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR &
WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
BEER REPUBLIC
MODERN BEER HALL

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel:
0945 858034
facebook.com/BeerRepublic
BLANCHYS TASH
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
0909 028293
Blanchystash.com
BOOTLEG DJ CAF
MINIMALIST CAF BAR

9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907
609202.
bootlegsaigon.com
Reminiscent of a New York
or London underground
watering hole, this is a great
place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts,
lunch by day and a variety of
DJ sets by night.
TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP

3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
0919 206461
fuse.vn
GAME ON
SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel:
(08) 6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com
A fresh feel thanks to the
large space and light-wood
tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole
a popular bar for televised
sports, pub food, darts, pool
and more.
HARD ROCK CAFE
LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595
hardrockcafe.vn
ICE BLUE
HOTEL LOUNGE BAR

Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
EXPAT BAR
3822 2644
Expats keep returning to
this smoky dive bar, largely
due to its amicable service,
brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart
games. A mainstay in the
local darts league.
BROMA, NOT A BAR
LA HABANA
BOUDOIR LOUNGE
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP
3823 6838
Bromas medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the
citys weirdest and coolest
events/random moments.
A sophisticated cocktail
menu and quite possibly the
best lamb burger in town.
Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.
CARMEN
LIVE MUSIC / BAR

8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 7699
CUNHOUSE
LOUNGE BAR
Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
Tel: 0908 033982
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and
restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and
Cuban cuisine, as well as a
few German favourites such
as curry wurst and Wiener
schnitzel. Nightly live music
and regular salsa classes.
LA FENETRE SOLEIL
FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 5994
A seductive watering whole
in a great corner location
thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese
fusion cuisine, imported
beer, classic cocktails, and
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

Level 23, Sheraton Saigon
Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT
LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB

Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
MAY RESTAURANT & BAR
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 7375
mayrestaurant.com.vn
Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting,
international comfort food
done well and a laid-back,
lightbox-lit ambience. Has
a downstairs bar area and
upstairs restaurant. Popular
with a businessy, international crowd.
MARTINI BAR
LOUNGE BAR
3rd Floor, Caravelle Saigon,
19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Martinis with various combinations of premium spirits
and other fresh flavours
figure prominently on the
drink menu at this classic
Indochine-styled bar, all
Th
i
Le
Huu
C
g
ng
Ng
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Le
Lo
i
Th
an
g8
Ham Nghi
Da
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District 2
t
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Va
Vo
put together by Caravelles

award-winning mixologists.
OMG!
FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen
An Ninh, Q1
A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with
a lounge bar just 50m from
Ben Thanh Market. Features
a glass shell modeled in the
image of the Eiffel Tower, a
jungle-like atmosphere and
views over central Saigon.
OBRIENS
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports
bar with classic pub dcor
is widely appreciated for its
excellent international fare,
large whiskey selection and
upstairs pool table. Great
pizzas. And for a real treat,
check out their zesty rolls.
PACHARAN
SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6024
pacharansaigon.com
Legs of Iberian ham hang
from the ceiling in the
downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything
Spanish. Regular first-floor
live music and excellent eats
makes it a mainstay for the
wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.
PARK LOUNGE
cT
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n
Ng
uy
en
an
Du
n
Bi
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ng
Hu
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District
10
Ma
Tr
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Du
h
an
Ng
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en
Ca
ch
LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON
LEVEL 23 WINE BAR
Ba
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 3122
lastcallsaigon.com
If youre in need of dense,
soulful atmosphere and
maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from
wherever, Last Call is your
stop and fast becoming
that of the similarly inclined.
Great happy hour deals for
early evening starters.
FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR

9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 0396
lerendezvousdesaigon.com
With such a meaningful
name - the meeting point
- this wine bistro boasts a
relaxed, friendly ambience,
perfect for unwinding with
an after work drink or to
enjoy time with friends.
Reasonably priced, has a
sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive
old and new world wine list.
Ha
i
ie
n
LAST CALL
District 3
Kh
ai
Ph
APOCALYPSE NOW
FUSE
entertaining music events /

DJ sets.
Tr
an
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 1234
International dcor blends
seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces
with a wide-ranging drink
menu and hip dance tunes to
create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.
EXPAT / SPORTS BAR

58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3915 2853
Subtle lighting, a pleasant
ambience, a pool table and
darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel
of a drinking man's pub. A
place to have fun, drink beer
or spirits and get in with the
party mood. Known for its 15
shooter challenge.
To
n
Ho
2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)
DRUNKEN DUCK
an
g
in
h
en
Ti
BARS & CLUBS
Binh Thanh
in
h
LOUNGE BAR & CAFE

Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam
Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
District 4
An elegant, ground floor

venue in The Hyatt, perfect
for social and business
gatherings. As well as nightly
live music, serves afternoon
tea staples including warm
scones with generous portions of homemade jam and
clotted cream.
PHATTYS
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed
Caf Latin, Phattys has
become the go-to, Aussie
beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international
cricket to Aussie rules and
serving an array of pub grub
favourites.
SAIGON RANGER
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 7300 0559
facebook.com/saigonranger
Aspiring to be a focal point
for artistic activities, the
space at Saigon Ranger has
been established to create
encounter and dialogue between different forms of art.
Boasts concrete floors, dark
wooden furniture, quirky
wall designs and a stage for
live music and other types of
performance.
SAIGON SAIGON BAR
LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR

9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon,
Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
This iconic bar is a great
place to watch the sun go
down over the city and relax

for a few drinks with friends.
Has live entertainment six
nights a week courtesy of
resident Cuban band, Qvans,
from 9pm Wednesday to
Monday.
SHRINE BAR
STYLISH LOUNGE BAR

61 Ton Thap Thiet, Q1
shrinebarsaigon.com
Shrine creates a drinking
and dining experience in
a temple-like atmosphere.
Inspired by Bantay Srei, a
temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are
covered in statues depicting
ancient Khmer gods and
kings. With ambient lighting
and town tempo music, here
its all about good cocktails
and an even better atmosphere.
STORM P
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4738
Stormp.vn
THE CUBE BAR
HIP RESTOBAR
31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel:
0903 369798
facebook.com/thecubesaigon
A sleek, industrial looking
restobar with edgy dcor
and just a hint of Spanish
style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and
an emphasis on all things
Latin.
THE OBSERVATORY
BAR, ART & DJ SPACE
5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat)
Known for its late night par-
HCMC
COFFEE CUP
BIKE CAFE'
kay, so its not really a

caf, but more like an
open workshop space.
Bike diagrams dot the
walls, and theres a real gearhead
feel.
Phuc owns the place, and has
been cycling since 2010. He and his
friends used to be into motocross,
then they got into mountain biking.
Recently, Phuc opened up his
workshop space to the public, but
as of now its really just a hangout
for his fellow bike nuts. There
werent any places like this in
Saigon, so I decided to open one.
Supposedly they have coffee
we were told the guy who knows
how to work the oversized grinders
we saw wasnt in on the day we
visited but a handful of bike
geeks were drinking beers and
water at 11.30am. As good a way to
kill time during rush hour as any.
Ed Weinberg
Bike Caf is at 133 Nguyen Phuc
Nguyen, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City
Photos by Kyle Phanroy
HCMC
ties and focus on international artists, Observatory
is now at a bigger space in
District 4. Complete with a
new balcony overlooking
the Saigon River and an even
larger sound system, The
Observatory is a key node
in the Asian underground
music circuit.
THE ORIENT
SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1
facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
An attractive, spacious,
brick-wall interior, a long
bar, high table seating, big
screens, a pool table and
live music. A great venue for
a few beers and more.
VASCOS
MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR

The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
2888
Vascosgroup.com
A veteran fixture of Saigons
nightlife scene, Vascos offers a softly lit downstairs
patio, and an upstairs Blue
Room chill out lounge area
with regular live music.
VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE
INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
facebook.com/vespersaigon
A sophisticated yet downto-earth cocktail bar and
restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit
selections in town. Serves
creative, Japanese and
German-influenced cuisine
to supplement the drinks.
VINO
WINE BAR / TAPAS

The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299
1315
1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6281 9059
vinovietnam.com
This downtown wine shops
terrace is a popular after
work drinking spot, where
one can select from 10
wines by the glass, a range
of imported beer, and an
excellent tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the
great selection of wines in
the shop and pay a small
corkage.
VINYL BAR
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907
890623
vinylbarsaigon.com
A small but popular bar
with all the shenanigans of
the nightlife scene set to a
backdrop of classic 60s, 70s
and 80s tunes. Has a darts
area out back and is a popular space for watching the
live English Premier League.
WINE BAR 38

3829 3968
With a huge selection of
self-imported wines from
Bordeaux, this classy but
contemporary venue is a
wine bar downstairs, and a
lounge on the first floor. Has
a French-Asian menu paired
to all the wines, with a huge
selection of the good stuff
sold by the glass.
WINE EMBASSY

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 7827
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving
30 wines by the glass, all
at reasonable prices. Has
an excellent food menu to
complement the old and new
world wines.
WONDER BAR
HOSTESS BAR
54 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: 0923 337070
Decked out in white, a huge
rectangular bar takes up the
main space making this the
perfect venue for quite literally propping up the bar. Bar
games and select-your-own
music are part of the deal.
XU
CAF / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 8468
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its
cocktails and wine list. It
serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly
decorated interior. Regular
DJ nights.
CAFES & ICE-CREAM

AU PARC
EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2772
Auparcsaigon.com
Set in a shophouse-style
building, Au Parc offers a
chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean
food complemented with
good coffee and excellent
desserts.
BACH DANG
ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE

26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2707
BASKIN ROBBINS
ICE CREAM PARLOUR

1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
7308 3131
baskinrobbins.vn
CASBAH
MIDDLE EASTERN
59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 5130
This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both
cozy indoor and rooftop
seating to admire views of
the city. With such a prime
downtown location, expect
prices to match.
CENTRO
ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE

Tel: (08) 3827 5946
Conveniently located near
the Caravelle Hotel, this
casual cafe serves one of
the best lattes in town with
a mid-range Italian menu
including panini and other
typical fare.
COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL
Metropolitan Building, 235
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508
7285
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
CREPERIE AND CAF
FRENCH
3829 9117
Known for its fantastic
street-side seating opposite
the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out
caf will impress you with its
location as much as its food.
FANNY

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 1633
fanny.com.vn
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL
80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3704
saigongivral.com
GOODY

(08) 3829 9339
GUANABANA SMOOTHIES
CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909
824830
guanabanasmoothies.com
An American-style juice
bar and caf dedicated
to healthy, nutricious
smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and
condensed milk. A pleasant,
contemporary environment
adds to the theme.
HAGEN-DAZS

6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066
LUSINE
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B
Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
0703
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor
compliments the spacious,
whitewashed contemporary
interior of LUsine. A simple,
creative menu combines
with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and
art gallery out back. Second
location on Le Loi.
MAGONN THE CAFE

(08) 3822 9672
magonn.vn
Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything
from drinks to bites. Coming
with a crowd? The attic is a
quaint little spot to fit a cozy
gathering.
M2C CAFE
44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2495
facebook.com/m2ccafe
At M2C (Modern Meets
Culture), everything gets a
touch of modernity. From
the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows
immense local culture, done
with a modern flare. Be seen
here at one of the latest popular joint in town.
PLANTRIP CHA
TEA ROOM
8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung
Street, Q1
Tel: 0945 830905
Tea, tea and more tea, all in
a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha
customers go on a sensory
journey to experience the
tastes and smells of teas
from across Asia, Europe,
America and the Middle East.
THE MORNING CAFE

2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
Have a book to read? Pick a
bright spot by the window
and get snuggly with the
comfy upholstery in this
second-floor cafe. With a
cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some
background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.
THE PRINT ROOM
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
3823 4990
Second-storey coffeehouse
offers a quiet atmosphere
to chill out or read from
their book-nook collection.
Comfortable couch seating,

open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
TRUNG NGUYEN
INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE
80 Dong Khoi, Q1
trungnguyen.com.vn
ZEST BISTRO & CAF
INTERNATIONAL
5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)
3911 5599
This two-storey building with
a mezzanine level boasts an
industrial style complex with
block walls, steel structures
and huge glass windows.
The mid-range menu offers
over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

ANUPA ECO LUXE
LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2394
anupa.net
Monday to Sunday, 9am to
8pm
This centrally located unique
boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique
which exclusively retails
the complete Anupa leather
and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other
unique eco brands such as
bamboo eyewear, pendant
scarves and cushion covers.
DEBENHAMS
ADULT & CHILDRENS WEAR

Vincom Center, 70-72 Le
Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
7592
GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN
DESIGN & JEWELLERY

6291 8162
galleryvivekkevin.com
9.30am to 8pm
This retail-cum-gallery
space specialises in contemporary and exclusive
handcrafted jewellery made
from handpicked gemstones
and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run
every month.
GEISHA & GEISHAS COFFEE AND

TEA HOUSE
CASUAL & EVENING WEAR

3829 4004
Contemporary ranges of
casual and evening wear
fused with Asian designs.
The apparel includes floral
dresses, jean skirts, printed
tees and street-style bags.
Enjoy a cup of coffee at their
caf after.
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
8755
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnam-
themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run

store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
IPA-NIMA
BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
9am to 9pm
LUSINE
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and
sophisticated clothing and
casual high-quality cottons
are stocked at this boutique/
caf. Lifestyle accessories
include shoes, homewares,
knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.
MANDARINA
TAILOR-MADE SHOES
(08) 3827 5267
SONG
ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65
Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3914 4088
asiasongdesign.com
T&V TAILOR
TAILORS
3824 4556
triciaandverona.com
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A
Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
COOKING CLASSES
SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY
HOA TUC
3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The
three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking
Vietnamese chef, includes a
trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.
VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu
Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com
HCMC
TOP EATS
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON
hen hitting the

buffet, I have a
method. A light
plate at first;
some sushi, some charcuterie,
maybe some oysters. Some
coffee somewhere in there. No
Bloody Mary yet.
Its clever, but its not
foolproof. The occasional
Champagne on the Lawn
picnic brunch with some
super-tempting plump sausages
sitting next to the grill can
complicate things.
Last months blankets-onthe-lawn brunch blowout was
the latest buffet innovation
on InterCons 2015 slate. The
month before it was a VND2.75
million++ super brunch
Photos by Ed Weinberg
eight hours, three culinary

zones, 15 live stations. Theyre
shaking things up a bit on the
hotel brunch front, and it seems
to be working.
But its reaping havoc on my
brunch technique. So on days
like the picnic brunch, I just say
to hell with it, grab as many
bacon-wrapped things as I can,
and make the most of it.
Ed Weinberg
The InterContinental Asiana
Saigon is on the corner of Le Duan
and Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Ho Chi
Minh City. Market 39 has the
regular buffet breakfast, lunch
and dinner on weekdays, with
brunch happening on the weekends.
Visit intercontinental.com/saigon
for more specifics
HCMC
CRAFTS & FURNITURE
BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 4201
bellavitafurniture.com
BOCONCEPT
DANISH FURNITURE
68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 6604; The Crescent
Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5413 7357
boconcept.vn
DIABOLO
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

3825 1803
9am to 8pm
EM EM
SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm
LUXURY FURNITURE IN VIETNAM

Tel: 0909 042765
luxury-furniture-vietnam.
com
A complete and exclusive
range of furniture produced
by high-end furniture producers in Vietnam and also
in Europe (Austria, Denmark,
Germany, Italy, France).
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org
NGUYEN FRERES
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
3823 9459
8am to 8pm
NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY
EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS
3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1.
(08) 3824 7456
ninhkhuong.vn
SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

69 Dong Khoi, Q1
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110

mekong-quilts.org
tion with classic cream and

green-tiled dcor.
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre,
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
6115
www.nhaxinh.com
THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse.
com.vn
EAT
3T QUAN NUONG
VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631
AL FRESCOS
INTERNATIONAL
38238424
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of
one of Vietnams most successful restaurant chains,
Al Frescos offers international, Australian-influenced
comfort fare in a pleasant
environment with efficient,
friendly service to match.
Excellent delivery service.
ASHOKA
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 1372
33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel :
(08) 3744 4177
ashokaindianrestaurant.
com
Long-running, awardwinning Indian restaurant
famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and
Chinese-Indian fare.
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAF
3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European
caf fare think deli-style
sandwiches, salads and
mezzes, plus coffees and
juices served at a popular park-side Le Duan loca-
BAHDJA
87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1,
Tel: 0122 763 1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail.
com
Located just beneath Au Lac
Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigons first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic,
multi-ethnic Berber North
African and Mediterranean
cuisine cooked and served
in a traditional Algerian style.
Best experienced in a group,
this small but pleasant restaurants soothing ambience
is matched by the owners
genuine hospitality and
complimented by an array of
tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Make sure to
try the excellent Moroccan
wine, too.
BARBECUE GARDEN
VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE
135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3340; 134-136
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1
barbecuegarden.com
BASILICO
Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza,
Cnr. Nguyen Du and Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099
BIBI@ALIBI
5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6257
The legendary chef Bibis
newest creation, a convivial
restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh
products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish
dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.
BLACK CAT
AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 2055
blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers,
tasty Vietnamese-styled
sandwiches, spiced up
cocktails, mains and more,
all served up with a Californian edge at this small but
popular two-storey eatery
close to the river.
BLANCHY STREET
JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai
Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
8793
The work of former Nobu
chef Martin Brito, the
Japanese-South American
fusion cuisine at Blanchy
Street is among the tastiest
and most unusual in the city.
All complemented by fresh,
contemporary decor and a
leafy terrace out front.
BOMBAY INDIAN
INDIAN MALAY
57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel:
0903 863114
BROTZEIT
GERMAN / RESTOBAR
Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206
brotzeit.co/kumholink
BUN CHA HA NOI
BUN CHA
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1
CENTRAL PARC BANH MI

7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 8549
Part of the Au Parc group,
this miniscule, New Yorkthemed sandwich shop does
creative lunchtime fare at
excellent prices think
baguettes, wraps, focaccia
and bagels. Excellent delivery service.
tipasti, pastas, and pizzas.

Friendly staff and rustic
bare brick walls adorned
with Hollywood film legends
make for a relaxed and attractive setting.
GOLDEN ELEPHANT
CORSO
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant,
the enticing range of US and
Australian steaks plus great
grill and comfort food menu
in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite.
Decent-sized steaks start at
VND390,000.
DRAGON NOODLE
JAPANESE NOODLES
3521 0008
ELBOW ROOM
AMERICAN
3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style
diner ranges from meatball
baguettes to chilli burgers,
pizzas, blackened chicken
salads and a selection of
more expensive international mains.
EL GAUCHO
5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1879
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.
CIAO BELLA
NEW YORK-ITALIAN
3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range
of tasty and affordable an-
The ubiquitous mint sauce

is thick and creamy and the
curries are both authentic
and smoky. Ganesh is rated
by many as the best Indian in
town. Very friendly service.
GANESH
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
CLASSIC THAI
3822 8554
saigonssk@vnn.vn
GOURMETS DELIGHT
ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE

Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana
Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3521 8181
gourmetsdelight.com.vn
GRILLBAR
AIRCON STREETFOOD
(08) 3822 7901
facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe
Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to
it a range of grilled dishes,
typical of the barbecue fare
youd find on the street, and
then add in three types of
rice and a range of organic
products. Close to Ben
Thanh Market, this is com
binh dan
HOA TUC
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
1676
Highly rated restaurant
with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include
pink pomelo squid and crab
salad, mustard leaf prawn
rolls, fishcake wraps and
barbecue chicken in ginger,
onions and a lime leaf marinade.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
3823 1101
HOGS BREATH CAF
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1,
HCMC
THE EMPTY WOK

SWEET N SOUR FISH
BY RICCHA ARORA
A food blogger
and self-styled
chef, this month
Riccha Arora
returns to one
of those dishes
synonymous
with Asia
ffering a classic combination of

flavours, sweet and sour fish is
one of the best known dishes
coming from East Asia. When
the fried fish is dipped in this sauce, it
gets a savoury, crispy and yet slightly
soggy texture. The perfect balance of
flavours, the source is caramelized, with
bell pepper, onions and fresh pineapple
adding the final touch.
Made with simple ingredients that most
people keep in their kitchen, the sauce can also
be used with fried shrimp, pork or chicken.
Ingredients
For the fish
Any whole, firm fish I used pomfret
3 tablespoons of cornstarch
1 cup of onions, diced in medium square sizes
2 cups of mixed red, green and yellow bell
pepper diced into medium-sized squares
1 cup fresh pineapple diced into mediumsized squares
5 minced cloves of garlic
1 inch ginger, finely chopped.
3 tablespoons of oil for frying fish, alternately
you can choose to deep fry as well
Photo by Kyle Phanroy
2 whole dried red chillis ( optional)

For the sauce
4 tablespoons tomato ketchup
cup pineapple juice, canned or fresh
2 cups fish or vegetable stock
teaspoon white pepper powder
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons of cornstarch
1 teaspoon of dark soy sauce
2 tablespoons of rice vinegar
Salt to taste
Method
1) Take the whole pomfret, clean it, wash
and then pat dry with a cloth. Next cut
three big slits on the belly this will allow
sauce to penetrate inside the fish. Rub half
a teaspoon of salt and three tablespoons of
cornstarch evenly over the fish. Put aside
for 10 minutes.
2) Mix the tomato ketchup, pineapple juice
and soy sauce in a bowl and stir well. Add
one cup of vegetable stock.
3) Put half a tablespoon of oil in a pan and
heat it, add garlic followed by ginger and
whole chilli. Sautee for one minute. Next

add the onions and cook them until they are
transparent. Add the sauce you have just
mixed together and bring the contents to a
simmering boil. Add the sugar and then the
bell peppers.
4) Add the remaining vegetable stock to the
sauce together with the diced pineapple. To
thicken, take two tablespoons of cornstarch
and mix it with cold water to make a paste.
Then add it to the sauce and allow to cook
for two minutes. When this is done, add the
rice vinegar and turn off the flame.
5) To pan fry the fish, take a grilling pan
with a heavy bottom, add three tablespoons
of oil and heat. Then place the fish on the
pan and let it shallow fry on both sides on a
low light. Do not cover with a lid.
6) Once the fish is crisp and cooked, pour
over the hot sauce and serve with garnish
and steamed rice.
Riccha Arora runs the Facebook page Sassy
Kitchen facebook.com/arorassassykitchen.
You can also check out her website
arorasassykitchen.com
HCMC
Tel: (08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar
atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers
regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy
hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.
INAHO
SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326
JASPAS WINE & GRILL
INTERNATIONAL FUSION
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good
and creative. Excellent service, an attractive
outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu.
Check out their pepper steaks.
KABIN
CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 815 Ton Duc
Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine
in an elegant, classic setting, with striking
dcor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to
VND900,000.
KOH THAI
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4423
Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai
classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and
more. Koh Thais creative cocktails merge
Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and
herbs.
LA HOSTARIA
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080
lahostaria.com
This downtown hideaway with rusticstyle
decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello dantico.
Also specializes in excellent wood-fired
pizzas.
LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON
CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION

40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263
lebouchondesaigon.com
A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic
staples such as French onion soup, escargot,
and moules marinires, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world
wines.
LE JARDIN
CLASSIC FRENCH
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465
Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a
relaxed garden setting within the French
cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap
house wine is served by the carafe.
LUONG SON
PAN-VIETNAMESE
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330
OSAKA RAMEN
JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My
Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7
OPERA
Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
A contemporary, casual, trattoria-style restaurant with al fresco dining overlooking
the Opera House. Specialising in both traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine,
the restaurant also features an impressive
breakfast menu.
PACHARAN
SPANISH / EUROPEAN
97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924
Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs
bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in
warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharans
food menu is traditionally Spanish.
PENDOLASCO
PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian
restaurant serves up quality homemade
pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and
grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.
MAY RESTAURANT
LOLIVIER
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with
its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and
ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant
has quarterly Michelin star promotions and
an award winning pastry team.
LA BETTOLA
LITTLE ITALY
84 Ho Tung Mau Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4402
labettolasaigon.com
Located in the heart of Saigon, La Bettola is
the only restaurant in town managed by two
Italian chefs and an Italian waiter. A woodfired pizza oven, a downstairs bar and a
stylish, elegant setting on the second floor
are part of the mix. As is the home-made
mozzarella, ricotta cheese, ravioli magro,
tortelli mushrooms, pappardelle and mascarpone cheese for the tiramisu, which is
made fresh every day. Has a great selection
of Italian wine.
LA CUISINE
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant
bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu,
backed up with an extensive wine list.
19 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

may.restaurant19@gmail.com
7am to late
Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic
Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating,
an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the
Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this
multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out
their set lunches and happy hour.
MARKET 39
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 9999
MOGAMBO
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311
mogambo@saigonnet.vn
NAM GIAO
HUE CUISINE
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38
250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 9996
namgiao.com
NHA HANG NGON
VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD

160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131
NINETEEN
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
HCMC
TOP EATS
TEMPLE CLUB
longside Cuc Gach

Quan and May
Cloud, Temple Club
is one of the best
places to take visitors when
one wants to show them
the grandeur of old-time
Saigon. The name Temple
Club features in a great bit
of dinner-table trivia sonamed because it used to be
the guesthouse for the Hindu
temple across the street, back
in the time when Saigon
was home to a significant
population of Indian traders
from Pondicherry. But forgive
your guests if they ease
away from the conversation
to take in the exposed brick
walls, vaulted ceilings and
delicately carved reminders
of the past.
The food here is classical
Vietnamese, with clay pots
and rice beds supporting
traditional offerings. The

dishes dont hit the same notes
of the home-style versions
of cuisine available at other
colonial spots on the moms
in town agenda, but there are
gems like shrimp in coconut
milk and Chinese-style grilled
pork spare ribs to keep her
happy.
But you didnt come here
just for the food. Work those
trustworthy supplements into
your order (morning glory
and lotus salad? yes and yes)
and finish your night on the
1880s-vintage balcony or in the
lounge. Sip on some whiskey,
smoke a cigar and take in the
view its a window into the
past and present, a timeless
version of Saigon.
Ed Weinberg
The Temple Club is at 29-31
Ton That Thiep, Q1, Ho Chi
Minh City
HCMC
PIZZA 4PS
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
(08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated
Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet
delicious pies such as tuna
curry pizza and calamari
seaweed pizza, as well as
more traditional varieties.
PROPAGANDA
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1
Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up
classic Vietnamese cuisine
in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with
Propaganda Art murals and
prints.
QUAN BUI 2
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 1515
With its leafy roof garden
and chic interior, Quan Bui
offers a wide selection of
Vietnamese cuisine which is
cooked in their open kitchen.
REFINERY
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades
this popular French-style
bistro and wine bar which
once housed the citys
opium refinery. The cuisine
runs from creative salads
through to Mediterranean
influenced mains.
REFLECTIONS
INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING

3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19
Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08)

3823 4999
RIVERSIDE CAF
Renaissance Riverside,
815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 0033
Offers versatile allday dining of international quality,
with the bonus of being able
to watch the action on the
river sidewalk. Features
western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT
PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21
Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes
and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong
Kong, Shang Palace has nine
private dining rooms and a
main dining area seating
over 300. Good for events.
VIETNAMESE
First Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1234
An atmospheric Ho Chi
Minh City restaurant featuring simple and authentic
Vietnamese and Western
cuisine offered from an
impressive display of integrated show kitchens to
serve guests in five different
dining areas. Open for lunch
and dinner.
TANDOOR
SAFFRON
PAN-MEDITERRANEAN
51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1
Tel: (08) 3824 8358
Sporting food from around
the Mediterranean rim, this
compact and cozy eatery
with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with
expats and tourists alike.
Reservations advised.
SAIGON CAF
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SAN FU LOU
CANTONESE KITCHEN
Ground Floor, AB Building,
76A Le Lai, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 9513
sanfulou.com
Open until 3am, this popular,
contemporary Cantonese
dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in
a space that takes Chinese
dining in Saigon to a new
level. And if you like your dim
sum, look no further.
SEOUL HOUSE
KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4297
SKEWERS
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious
Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging
from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki,
a range of dips, mousaka,
osso buco and lamb chop
skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

(08) 3930 4839
Tandoorvietnam.com
TEMPLE CLUB
PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon,
the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one
of the citys best-preserved
buildings. Serving quality
Vietnamese and Indochine
cuisine at reasonable prices.
SORAE
SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE

Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689
soraesushi.com
Set over two floors, this
astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant
and lounge brings to Saigon
the type of environment and
ambience youd expect of
New York, Singapore, Hong
Kong and Dubai. With the
dcor comes a modern take
on Japanese fare. A place to
see and be seen.
SQUARE ONE
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL /
THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON

54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 2079
swisshousesaigon.com
Serving up authentic cuisine
spanning the three linguistic
regions of Switzerland, as
well as dishes from Bavaria
and Austria, this attractive,
two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant also boasts a beer
cellar in the basement.
TOKYO BBQ
JAPANESE BARBECUE
15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2527
VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE
INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
facebook.com/vespersaigon
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a
sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting
and a great spirit selection.
Serves creative, Japanese
and German-influenced
cuisine to supplement the
drinks and has a separate
dining space.
WARDA
MIDDLE-EASTERN
71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3822
info@wardavn.com
The deep colours, Arabic dcor and cushioned outdoor
terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.
The food is good, too, taking
in tabouleh, houmous, falafel
and mutabbal, shwarmas
and more. Sells authentic
shisha.
alley off Le Thanh Ton offers delicious, unpretentious

Okinawan fare alongside
mainland staples. Does a
great set lunch deal.
YU CHU
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 3520 9999
Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles,
fresh dim sum and hot wok
dishes within an impeccably
designed open kitchen, as
diners look on. Stylish and
spectacular.
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

ANUPA YOGA
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822

2394
anupa.net/yoga-anupa
CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE
FITNESS CENTRE
Queen Ann Building, 2830
32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
5999
Cfyc.com.vn
WRAP & ROLL

(08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen
Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.
YAMANEKO
JAPANESE / OKINAWA
(08) 3823 8433
yamanekovn.com
Funky Yamaneko down an
NUTRIFORT
GENERAL FITNESS
2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8560
nutrifort.com
Offers fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. There is also a
spa and a restaurant serving
caloriecalibrated meals.
RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH

CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033
HCMC
STUDENT EYE
A NUMBERS GAME
magician says: Pick a card! Any

card! and you pick the card.
Suddenly the number on that
card means so much to you. For
some reason, it became your number. The
number you were born to, even though
you didnt even care about it when you
learnt how to count. But now, it carries a
whole new meaning.
Its baffling how numbers can play such
an important role in our lives. Everyone
knows. Students know.
Every one or two weeks, our graded
papers get handed back to us. Above all, one
thing stands out: the number we were given,
our grade. Like the number on the card, we
sometimes cant help but think that numbers
define us in some way. But do they?
Grades, A Serious Business

Since secondary school, I think of grades
the same way a working adult would think
of salary. At the end of every trimester,
when they hand me the transcript, I have
to make sure that my numbers are high

enough to secure my future. This puts a lot
of pressure on students (including me) and
makes learning less like learning and
more like earning.
I will confess that I harbour a certain
pride from my relatively high scores. To me,
grades were never a measure of my capacity;
instead, theyre a mark of prestige. If school
is like a mini model of our society, then this
earning level puts me in good position.
This is especially true considering
the fact that when processing college
applications, the first thing people will
generally look at are your transcripts. As if
we are nothing but numbered chess pieces,
they will judge us even before seeing our
faces or talking to us. Evidently, GPAs have
the power to decide more than how we
think of ourselves. They also decide what
others think of us.
Grades, A Serious Problem

Ever since I was little, Ive been standing
between two opinions: either grades do

matter or grades do not matter. In this day
and age, when our transcripts have become
our second identity cards, a line that is too
often blurred is the one standing between
who we are on the whole, and our grades.
We can only get universal grading standards
from standardising our educations to a
certain extent. But what happens when some
of us dont quite fit the norm?
A grade is more than just a number or
a letter, it is a label, a burden. If we are
convinced of something for long enough,
eventually we will believe it. This also
implies that our grades, like our childhood
fears, only have a grip on us if we let them.
The question isnt whether or not our
grades define us, its whether or not we let
our grades define us. To Thu Phuong
To Thu Phuong is a high school junior at
Alexandre Yersin French High School (Lyce
Franais Alexandre Yersin) in Hanoi, lfay.
com.vn
HCMC
SAIGON FITNESS CO.
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
SHERATON FITNESS
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

3824 1555
THE LANDMARK CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext. 176
In addition to the squash
court, facilities include a
fullyequipped gym room, a
rooftop swimming pool and
separate male and female
saunas.
GALLERIES
BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART
GALLERY
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 3695
bluespacearts.com
DOGMA
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese
propaganda art and a collection put together over the
last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the
majority of the work comes
from the war period when
provocative poster art was
used to inspire and motivate.
Sells prints of the originals
and related products.
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS

MUSEUM
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 4441
baotangmythuattphcm.vn
PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3181
07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 3166
phuongmaigallery.com
deli upstairs in the Hai Ba

Trung branch serves tasty
baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free
WiFi, and offers probably
the best selection of cheese
and cured meats in town.
Free delivery for Districts 1,
2 and 3.
BACCHUS CORNER
WINE SHOP
158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 3306
bacchuscorner.com
A range of spirits, whiskies
and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over
the world with an especially
good selection from France,
Chile and South Africa. Also
has an excellent range of
single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an onsite
wine tasting machine, the
Enomatic, the first of its kind
in Vietnam.
DALOC
WINE SHOP
74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 5404 3575
daloc.vn
KIM HAI BUTCHERS
BUTCHERS
73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 4376
kimhai.vn
PHUONG HA
GROCERS
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 1318
RED APRON
WINE SHOP
22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 0021
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE SHOP
(08) 3825 8826
One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition
to their excellent range of
wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.
VEGGYS
GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8526
41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3829 6298
MEDICAL & DENTAL

ACCADENT
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com
CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI)
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic
provides general practice
and a range of specialties
including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and
acupuncture.
WESTCOAST INTL DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL
CLINIC
Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6999
The Practice, Level 1, 71-79
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
6777
westcoastinternational.com
An international dental clinic
equipped with the latest
technology, the comfortable
clinics offer cosmetic and
implant dentistry with a focus on making each patients
experience anxiety and pain
free.
SALONS & SPAS

AQUA DAY SPA
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
aquadayspasaigon.com
FAME NAILS SALON

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.
3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909

682 827
famenails.com
GLOW SPA
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8368
glowsaigon.com
Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages
lasting from 30 minutes, to
two-hour hot stone therapy,
includes one suite with a

Jacuzzi bath; offers hand
and foot care and a hair
styling area.
INDOCHINE SPA
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a
peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic
scents and lulling melodies.
Customers are pampered
by qualified therapists using
natural French products in
a clean and pleasant environment.
JASMINE
45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
Sparelated salon with a
good reputation for quality
and comfort offers washes
and leisurely haircuts from
VND330,000 plus a range of
related services including
massage and some excellent treatments.
Q SPA & SALON

31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08)
3905 4609
Qspaandsalon.com
An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with
wooden floors, flowers and
flowing drapes makes this
an excellent atmosphere in
which to enjoy a massage.
Also offers hair styling and

facials.
ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Specialising in all forms of
skincare, this is welldesigned, ambient and outfitted
day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and
foot treatments.
SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND

HEALTH CLUB
3rd Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3520 9999
THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL

CLUB
22nd floor, Sailing Tower,
111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
2220 2600
spa1960.vn
THE SPA
Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu
Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3514 9007
Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65
Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1800
thespavietnam.com
THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
XUAN SPA
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
hyattpure.com
FV SAIGON CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6290 6167
fvhospital.com
Stateoftheart medical
centre located in District
1. Experienced American,
French, and Vietnamese
doctors provide the full
spectrum health care. Plus
sports medicine, cosmetic
treatments, skin care and
surgical consultations.
VINIFERA
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE
WINE SHOP
7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0860
viniferavn.com
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
VINO WINE SHOP
GROCERY & DELI

(08) 3822 9332
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from
the likes of Fauchon. The
HAIRDRESSERS
VENUS
WINE SHOP
(08) 6299 1315
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines.
Also offers regular popular
wine courses. The outdoor
terrace area is the perfect
spot to sample a new vintage.
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3827 6999
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic
offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to
treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and
facial care team. The clinic
utilises the latest therapies.
HCMC
pham ngu lao
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING

& ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
GALLERIES
BAKERIES
CRUMBS
BAKERY
117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 1992
crumbs.com.vn
Dubbed the local bakery,
Crumbs serves up a variety
of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and
garlicbased buns and loafs,
meatfilled pastries, sweet
pastries, healthconscious
breads and more. There is
also a breakfast menu and
variety of sandwiches available.
TOUS LES JOURS
KOREAN BAKERY
(08) 3914 4350
BARS & CLUBS

BIA TUOI 33
BIA HOI
33 Bui Vien, Q1
BREAD & BUTTER
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT
FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8452
With a free book exchange,
and tasty Sunday night
roasts, the tiny Bread &
Butter is a perfect place for
homesick expats and beer
enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served
here exclusively in Ho Chi
Minh City).
GO2
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 9575
GODMOTHER BAR
RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE /
WESTERN
3832 4589
godmothersaigon.com
Only a couple blocks from
the bru-haha of Bui Vien,
Godmothers is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent
mojitos, good food, and the
weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJs.
LE PUB
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
Tel: (08) 3837 7679
Warm colors, artsy dcor
and a friendly ambiance
combine to create a perfect
setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese

cuisine. Check out their daily
drink specials and Tuesday
night pub quizzes.
UNIVERSAL BAR
LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR

90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633
343933
universalbarsaigon.com
LONG PHI
FRENCH / RESTOBAR
3837 2704
French-run but universally
appealing, Long Phi has been
serving the backpacker area
with excellent cuisine and
occasional live music since
1990. Excellent late-night
bistro cuisine.
SAIGON VIBRATIONS
REGGAE BAR
143 Nguyen Trai, Q1
facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae
inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the
name of that most special
of sounds the one from
Jamaica.
SEVENTEEN SALOON
THEMED MUSIC BAR

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
Wild West-themed bar
doubles as a music venue,
where three talented Filipino
bands (B&U, Wild West and
Most Wanted) play covers of
rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2
and Guns n Roses. Top shelf
spirits and friendly, hostess
style table service are the
name game here.
SPOTTED COW
CAFES
BOBBY BREWERS
INTERNATIONAL
3920 4090
bobbybrewers.com
Choose from a full range
of caf beverages and a
fast-food style menu as you
watch the latest Hollywood
hits in their upstairs lounge.
Check website for movie locations and schedule.
CHICCO DICAFF CAF
ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE

213 Bui Vien, Q1
facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee
Set just off the street on the
quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco
Dicaff serves an expat and
local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured
concoctions, from a five-seat
coffee bar.
INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
THI CAF
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2084
8am to 10.30pm
DIVE BAR
57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 9839
MARATHON
LA CANTINA
BUDGET CLOTHING
3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019
PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
papaya-tshirt.com
THAI / VIETNAMESE
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837
1311
JJS FISH N CHIPS
FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL

Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De
Tham, Q1
TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
BUDGET CLOTHING
3820 2620
9am to 10pm
U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:
0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com
ITALIAN / TEX-MEX
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
PUNJABI INDIAN RESTAURANT
NORTH INDIAN / PUNJAB

40/23 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3508 3777
monuvn@gmail.com
Ignore the non-trendy, holein-the-wall appearance. This
side-street Indian serves
up some excellent fare at
reasonable prices, with a
number of Punjabi specialities to boot.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 9780
EAT
3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian
does the full range of fare
from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka
masala, kormas, kebabs and
fiery vindaloos.
BURRITO REVOLUTION
SISTERS CAFE
VIETNAMESE/WESTERN
Tel: 0903 643446
Light wood paneling, beige
walls and locally themed
artwork help to create a
fresh and airy ambience in
this caf-cum-restaurant
that is owned by the woman
behind Chis Caf. Also does
visa extensions and motorbike rental.
TAM HAO HANDPULLED NOODLES

CHINESE NOODLES
195A De Tham, Q1
tamhao.com
Nothing gets better than a
bowl of tasteful broth and
hand-pulled Chinese noodles, especially when its
from Tam Hao. Hip interior
design draws many a traveller into this tasteful but
non-fancy hotel noodle restaurant, leaving them craving for more.

SKATEWEAR / STREET
641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BLUE DRAGON
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnam-
CHIS CAF
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable caf is a rarity
in the backpacker area for
its genuinely good musical
playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked
potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a
popular motorbike rental
service.
TIN NGHIA
VEGAN
(08) 3821 2538
One of the citys oldest eateries (established in 1925)
does some of the cheapest
and tastiest vegan cuisine in
town, all cooked up without
onions, garlic or MSG.
MARGHERITA
ORANGE
TEX-MEX / STREET STALL

714882
BAM SKATE SHOP
T&R TAVERN
CORIANDER
BABAS KITCHEN
INTERNATIONAL / SPORT
3920 7670
Alfrescosgroup.com
Spotted Cow delivers the
fun-loving atmosphere that
its playfully decorated black
and white spotted interior
promises, as well as decent
international comfort food,
a range of happy hours, live
sports, and darts.
LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE

224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2929
themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run

store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
THE HUNGRY PIG
BACON BAR / CAFE

3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and
more bacon, all set in airy,
spacious atmosphere, and
you get The Hungry Pig, an
eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty
through to the bacon Caesar.
A popular hangout.
WRAP & ROLL

226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check
out the second floor, junglein-the-wall dcor at this
particular branch. Unique
and refreshing.
ZEUS
GREEK / KEBAB
3837 3248
ZOOM CAF
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures.
com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a caf
and restaurant by day and
a sidewalk drinking joint
by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.
GALLERIES
GALERIE QUYNH
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8019
galeriequynh.com
In addition to working with
artists based in Vietnam,
Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from
around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports
education through talks, lectures and publications.

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
district 1
BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

/ COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
Binh Thanh
in
h
an
Tr
u
Th
i
ie
n
Le
Huu
C
cT
ha
n
ng
Th
an
g8
Le
Lo
i
ng
Ng
.H
ue
Ham Nghi
District 2
Hu
ng
Da
o
District
10
t
Kie
Tr
an
n
Va
District 4
Vo
BARS & CLUBS

BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)
CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL

37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1,
Tel: 0906 780081
CHILL SKYBAR
TOP-END BAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
For the spectacular views
alone, Chill Skybar remains
the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped
bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering
holes in the city.
HOA VIEN
CZECH BREWHOUSE
3825 8605
hoavien.vn
vatory on the other side of

Pham Ngu Lao. Open late,
holds a number of nights
like Tropical Wednesday,
Thursday-before-midnightshots-only ladies night and
Underground Saturdays, all
in an attempt to pump things
up for the party seekers in
town.
BOOKS
LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM
PHONG
82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 7858
Nam Phong Bookstore was
founded at the of end 2002 in
Ho Chi Minh City as the first
and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.
Only books written in French
are for sale, covering for all
ages and tastes. A catalogue
is available at namphongsaigon.com
MZ CLUB
LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB

56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 5258
m-zing.com
SAIGON VIBRATIONS
Du
Ng
uy
en
Ma
Du
Ba
h
an
Ng
uy
en
Kh
ai
Ph
n
Bi
e
To
n
Ho
Ha
i
Ca
ch
in
h
en
Ti
District 3
an
g
REGGAE BAR
143 Nguyen Trai, Q1
facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
Saigons first reggae bar
located close to The Obser-
CAFES
(A) CAFE
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da
Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701
Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews
in Saigon. Using own grown
and specially sourced Dalat
beans, speciality coffee such
as cold drip, siphon, and

Chemex are must haves for
the avid coffee drinker.
BANKSY CAFE
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 01699 990003
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
A small but swanky cafe,
Banksy promises a young
and vibrant hideout in an
old 1960s-era apartment
building. Remember to head
up the steep stairs within to
dig into their secret stash of
clothes and accessories.
CAFE THOAI VIEN

159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: 0918 115657
cafethoaivien.com
Veer off the street and find
yourself plunging straight
into lush greenery. Cafe
Thoai Vien serves up a
spacious and airy setting
to enjoy a quiet sip. From
small eats to big bites and
everything to drink, its a
great place to unwind from
all that buzz.
INTERNATIONAL
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3833 3648
coffeebean.com.vn
HCMC
A WORLD
OF
MEN GET READY
GOOD
BY DANA MCNAIRN
Nobel Prize Laureate, Malala Yousafzai
love this month because its my

sisters birthday. I hate this month
because it also means International
Womens Day on the 8th.
Lets start with what we know. This
year is the 20th anniversary of the Beijing
Declaration and Platform for Action
(expanding on the what and how of
the inalienable rights of women and
girls) and the 15th anniversary of Security
Council Resolution 1325 on Women,
Peace and Security (womens equal and
full participation in the prevention and
resolution of conflicts, peacebuilding and
peacekeeping).
Okay, lets see how far weve come. A few
years ago an INGO surveyed 4,000 children
on three continents. In Rwanda and India,
65 percent of respondents totally or partially
agreed with the statement a woman should
tolerate violence in order to keep her family
together. In India, 60 percent of respondents
agreed if resources are scarce it is better to
educate a boy instead of a girl. In one of
the first comprehensive national surveys
undertaken in Vietnam, one in three women
reported being beaten by their husbands.
Yet Vietnam has a fairly advanced legal
framework, which includes the Gender
Equality Law, the Law on Domestic Violence
Prevention and Control and related policies
promoting gender equality and addressing

domestic violence.
UN Women, no slouch in this
department, advocates gender equality
by getting the boys out. And the men, too.
Too bad theyre running such a vapid and
insulting campaign, HeForShe, fronted by a
young, white, western-privileged celebrity.
Thatll definitely get the patriarchys
attention, wont it?
Closer to Home
Okay, reality check. How about starting
a little closer to home? How about in the
home? This is where real change must start.
If a boy sees his male relatives treating
women and girls with respect, chances are
he will too. If he sees contempt, abuse and
violence what do you think?
What I dont understand is why this
is news to anyone. Mens use of violence
or subjugation is part of a perverse
affirmation of male norms and masculinity.
So the key is primary prevention that
shows the benefits of healthy relationships
and the positive roles men play as fathers,
role models and changemakers. Lets create
safe spaces for men and boys to deal with
the violence theyve experienced.
Gender equality will not be achieved
unless men and boys (as well as women
and girls) are persuaded of the importance

of equal opportunities for all.
A colleague sent me a link to a story
on Temple Universitys Board of Trustees
and the media mayhem about the Board
repeatedly going to bat for Bill Cosby as
he faces sexual assault allegations by 15
women. The press called up the Board
Chairman, who responded by shouting
into the phone, Im tired of this shit! Is
that so, Mr Patrick OConnor?
You know what Im tired of? Im tired
of the need to remind folks of some lame
once-a-year oh, and arent women great
day for the global contributions they make.
Each. And. Every. Single. Day. Im tired
that women still do not have full
participatory citizenship and rights around
the world.
But I was glad when Malala Yousafzai
won a Nobel Peace Prize. I could hear the
collective Nooooooo! shrieking from the
wild-eyed misogynists.
Cmon boys: Theres a train a-coming
/ You dont need no baggage / Just a-get on
board.
Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit
social enterprise and vocational training
programme for at-risk youth. She can be
contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au
HCMC
Large portioned coffee
lures customers into the
flagship store of this international caf chain. The
contemporary, yet generic
atmosphere is bolstered by
comfortable seating and a
menu to satisfy any sweet
tooth.
DECIBEL
INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense,
this two-floor, relaxed caf
offers beautiful decor and
unique original events like
live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great
prices and food with daily
specials.
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH
97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3844 3295
saigongivral.com
I.D. CAF
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben
Thanh Market, i.d offers
casual caf dining with a
wide variety of food and
beverages. Where modern
design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.
LAN MIEN DINING CAFE
76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
2718
The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of
this popular, contemporary
caf. Enjoy live music on
weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese
or espresso-based coffee.
LE PETIT CAF
FRENCH
112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6291 2067
MOCKINGBIRD CAFE
4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
Sitting atop of a number of
cafe establishments in an old
apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a
romantic time over mojitos,
or good ol caffeine-infused
relaxation.
while spending an afternoon

in this candy-land inspired
cafe.
phere. Subtle lighting and

an extensive wine list make
up the mix.
THINGS CAFE
CAF IF
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,

Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
Feel the calm and serenity
of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old
Apartment. The quaint and
relaxing atmosphere sets for
some alone time, or quality
conversations held over a
drink or two.
COBALT
COOKING CLASSES
OVERLAND CLUB
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm
The Overland Club organises
pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
monthly special activities,
such as the Soba Festival,
pottery painting classes, the
art of decorating paper and
multinational cuisine days.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

GAYA
CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 1495
gayavietnam.com
Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II
buildings in the city, Gaya has
a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps
and tableware, with all products both constructed and
designed locally. You can
find a wide range of mirrors
and lacquerware with bowls,
vases and contemporary
Asian-style boxes as well as
a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all
colours and designs. Prices
here match the quality of the
products.
EAT
27 GRILL
THE OTHER PERSON CAFE

2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
Fancy being served up by
maids in costume? Call for
a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking
VIETNAMESE FRENCH
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3846 9853
MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a
French twist, cooked fresh
to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and
beef stew, stir fries, hot pots
and curries.
GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
Besides the spectacular
views, the cuisine at 27 Grill
is a real draw, with steaks
and other international
grill-style fare in a refined
yet contemporary atmos-
ROOFTOP RESTOBAR
Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon
Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686
pullman-saigon-centre.com
A tapas-style contemporary
international menu in an
equally modern chic space,
Cobalt also has panoramic
views over the city thanks to
its 30th-floor location. Has a
focus on wine matching and
tasting. A hotel restaurant
with a difference.
DYNASTY
CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Elegant surroundings, top
quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable,
roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese
restaurants in town, with a
classic dim sum menu.
LION CITY
SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery,
plating up the likes of nasi
lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well
as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish
head curry.
MAY RESTAURANT
INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE
3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08)
3910 1277
May-cloud.com
Meaning Cloud, May utilises homemade recipes
and broths developed by the
restaurateurs father, such
as pan-fried duck breast
served with nuoc mam and
ginger, and 1940s style
spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in
an Indochine atmosphere.
MONSOON
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)
HCMC
US-STYLE BARBECUE
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 4500
facebook.com/quanutut
Its a no-brainer, right?
American-style barbecue in
a contemporary Vietnamese,
quan nhau-style setting. Of
course it is, which is why
Quan Ut Ut is constantly
packed with grill-obsessed
diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue
and Platinum pale ale served
on tap.
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH

DAN
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 7751

STAR FITNESS GYM
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91
Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic
provides general practice
and a range of specialties
including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and
acupuncture.
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)

6295 8926
catmocspa.com
Aimed exclusively at ladies
and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa
include facial, body and foot
care, and Japanese-style
haircuts, as well as steamsauna, paraffin and waxing
services.
HAIR BAR
CONTEMPORARY SALON
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(FREEPHONE) 1800 1108
hairbar.vn
A unique themed hair salon
where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment
only, giving female clients the
opportunity to get their hair
done on the run. Of course,
they have to look fabulous,
too. Fortunately this is one of
Hair Bars specialities. Check
the salon out on Facebook:
facebook.com/hairbarvn.
SPA TROPIC
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3925 1990
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910

5575
spatropic.com
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean
Consulate. Spa Tropic has
a long-standing reputation
among expats and visitors
alike for its professional
quality service.
Ni
BAKERIES
BAKEUP ATELIER
BAKERY
Tel: (08) 6281 8392
The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien,
Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries
such as croissants, pain au
chocolat, pain raisins, pizza
dough, pates feuillete and
much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc,
Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and
Ho Chi Minh City.
VOELKER
BAKERY
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
Frenchrun bakery selling
probably the tastiest range
of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passionfruit tart is
a must try.
BARS & CLUBS

BAAN THAI
SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE

3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
A bar and a Thai restaurant
all in one, the focus here is
not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live
sports. Lots of live sports.
The Thai cuisine is cooked
up by no-holds-barred Thai
chefs.
BMV PUB & GRILL

38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel:
01299 839314
facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill
With its seven TVs, full-size
Xa
Song H
Ni
nh
Song H
DISTRICT 2
mezzanine area, pool table

and aircon lounge space,
BMV is the perfect place in
District 2 to relax and watch
the sports. Has live music on
Thursday and Friday nights,
and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in
Thao Dien.
BUDDHA BAR
RESTOBAR
3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
Just across the lane from
McSorleys, this pub with an
eccentric European tilt and
some nice, authentic cuisine
draws an older crowd with
darts, pool and weekly poker
tourneys.
MCSORLEYS
IRISH BAR
4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126
9026006
Standing in the former home
of Gaudi, McSorelys is full of
surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool,
reggae parties, comedy
nights, and sporting events
projected onto the patio wall.
SAIGON OUTCAST
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAF BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com
Up-cycling and innovative
design form the foundation
for this bar / arts venue /
mini- skate park. Come for
barbeque and reasonably
priced drinks, stick around
for entertaining events and
adorable puppies.
nh
Th
Xa
Mai Ch
No
Trn
n Hong
QUAN UT UT
CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI)
CAT MOC SPA
Ng
N
y
Nguy
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3602 2241
Make sure to try the sauted
shrimps with cashew nuts
and crispy fried tofu with
lime wedge, at this popular,
high-quality eatery where all
food is served in traditional
crockery.
& DENTAL
n No
Hu Cnh
Xun Th
y
Xun Th
Xa
n
uy
Th
QUAN BUI
SALONS & SPAS
Binh Thanh
re.com
MEDICAL
Binh Thanh
ng
c H
Qu
3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel:

(08) 3840 0183
San-art.org
San Art is an independent,
artist-run exhibition space
that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an
exchange programme that
invites international artists/
curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
WE LINK
COUNSELLING
64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 2900
contact@welink.vn
Psychological counselling services for individual,
group and family. Diverse
counsellors and therapists,
using Cognitive Behaviour
Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For
adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French
and Spanish spoken.
Thao Dien
i
u
ng
H
y n Vn
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Flagship restaurant of The
New World Hotel, serving
lavish buffets all day. Many
cooking stations ranging
from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads,
cold cuts, cheese plates and
desserts.
SAN ART
DISTRICT 2
hQ
Bn
Ngu
PARKVIEW
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel:

0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Located in a quiet corner
of District 1, Craig Thomas
Gallery offers a compelling
mix of up-and-coming and
established local artists. In
operation since 2009, its
founder has been promoting
Vietnamese art for a decade.
(08) 3910 4545
Well-regarded clinic offering
general examinations and
specialising in pediatrics,
digestive diseases, cardiology, womens health and
internal medicine. Offers a
membership programme
and cooperates with most
insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.
district 2
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS

& FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR &
WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL /
SALONS & SPAS
g
H n
CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY
AMERICAN / FRENCH
2527 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373
steakhouse.com.vn
NYSW is well known for
serving up formidable prime
signature cuts of New York
strip steak, rib eye, double
strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
V
n
NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE
GALLERIES
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
Ng
uy
n
Steve Chipman, who had a

hand in establishing gyms
at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness one of
Vietnams largest and bestequipped gyms.
Tr
6290 8899
Traditional pan-Southeast
Asian favourites served in
a visually arresting setting
within a French colonial-era
villa, just minutes from the
backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy
juices and smoothies.
THE FAN CLUB
SPORTS BAR
Ground Floor, The Vista,
628C Hanoi Highway, Q2
dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub
12 quality screens and eight
draught beers, music spun
by DJs, excellent burgers,
quiz nights and barbecues.
All in an attractive, contemporary environment.
CAFES
AGNES CAFE
COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable cafe
in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat,
smoothies, juices, pastries
and desserts all day. Offers
a western-fare breakfast,
lunch and dinner menu with
a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with
salads and more typical
international cuisine. Now
open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed
and intimate.
CAF EVITA
LAID-BACK CAF / RESTAURANT

230A Nguyen Van Huong,
Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512
3888

LITTLE ANH-EM
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: 0917 567506
In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies
and children up to 10 years
old, Little Anh-Em stocks
sleeping bags and other accessories.
HCMC
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

AUSTIN HOME
REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 0023
austinhomeinteriors.com
Located in a villa-style
building, this An Phu-based
shop stocks antique repro
furniture. All products are
samples, so its limited and
exclusive with only one or
two pieces of each particular
item. Also has a great range
of imported fabrics up on the
2nd floor and an in-house
sewing room for cushions,
sofas and curtains. Offers
custom-made furniture and
delivery within four weeks.
Home dcor orders are also
available.
TATTOO ARTISTS
With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over
the past few years there
has been an increase in
the number of tattoo studios around the city.
Customers have the
choice of picking their
own tattoo out of the
many look books on offer
in the studios or bringing
in their own design. Most
of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.
Pricing depends on size
and style.
LAC VIET TATTOO 608
Dien Bien Phu, Q10

Tel: (08) 3830 4668
106 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: (08) 3821 7068
lacviettattoo.com
SAIGON BODY ART
135 Cong Quynh, Q1

Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com
SAIGON INK
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1

Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com
SAIGON TATTOO
31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net
CHI LAI
HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese
furniture brand is a good
choice for most families with
its respected high-quality
designs and competitive
prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach
and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises
in sofas and other furniture
such as table sets, shelves
and kitchen cabinets. There
is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous
choices of curtains and accessories.
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181
8am to 6pm, closed Sundays
Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this
three-storey building is so
packed full of items for sale
that it doesnt seem to have
enough space for all of its
products. The basement
storey carries outdoor
furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table
sets, while the second level
stocks all types of indoor
furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the
level above. Special orders
are taken for delivery within
three weeks. Also offers a
rental service.
GAYA
CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
(08) 6281 9680
gayavietnam.com
Set in a typical suburban
villa, Gaya sells chic and
sophisticated indoor and
outdoor
sofas, rugs, lamps, jewellery, scents, bedding, lacquerware and tableware,
all in a showroom-style
environment designed to
give you a sense of how to
construct that perfect interior. Also boasts a wine and
champagne bar that serves
up finger food, both indoors
and out front in the garden
by the pool.
THE FURNITURE HOUSE
HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643
TATTOO TAM BI
209 Bui Vien, Q1

Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat.com
PAN-THAI
3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this
An Phu eatery. The menu
has a whole page dedicated
to tom yum soup as well
as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine
cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.
BOAT HOUSE
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790
Live music, mini-festivals and
functions are regular events
at this spacious restobar in
An Phu on the banks of the
Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.
BOOM BOOM BURGER
US-STYLE BURGER JOINT

2 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
532378
boomboomburgers.wago.co
A simple and tasty menu
similar to that of the USs InN-Out burger, the tiny Boom
Boom has chosen to focus on
the fundamentals of the perfect burger sweet potato
fries, jalapeno-infused beef
patties and special avocado
blends.
LA CLOSERIE DELISA
FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT

52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2
A tropical garden ambience
that is at once French yet
contemporary Indochinese
is the home of this table
dhote style restaurant and
bar. Classic French cuisine
at reasonable prices in the
heart of Thao Dien.
LU BU
81 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1

Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com
BAAN THAI
FEELING TROPIC
SAIGON TATTOO GROUP
TATTOO SAIGON
breakfast, lunch and dinner

menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in
with salads and more typical
international cuisine. Open
until 10pm.
EAT
AGNES CAF
CAF FARE / TEX-MEX

11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable caf
offering up a western-fare
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08)
6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
Drawing inspiration from
the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean
and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run
restaurant bathed in white
HCMC
DELIVERY
BEN STYLE
Tel: 0906 912730
www.vietnammm.com/
restaurants-ben-style
Healthy, calorie-counted
sandwich and deli fare
focuses on wholesome,
fresh ingredients, with
breads, cheeses, pickles,
pastas and preserves made
on site daily from scratch. A
well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.
Has petanque on the terrace.
DOMINOS PIZZA
Tel: (08) 3939 3030
www.dominos.vn
Pizzas, wings, desserts
EAT.VN
www.eat.vn
Delivery service website
for local restaurants
AQUAFIT
MEKONG MERCHANT
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE /

SEAFOOD
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6478
info@mekongmerchant.com
The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the
place in An Phu. Set around
a cobble-stoned courtyard
the cuisine includes gourmet
seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.
EL GATO NEGRO
Tel: (08) 6660 1577
Californian-style burritos
HUNGRYPANDA.VN
www.hungrypanda.vn
KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
www.kfcvietnam.com.vn
Fried chicken, chicken
burgers, sides
LOTTERIA
Tel: (08) 3910 0000
www.lotteria.vn
Burgers, fried chicken,
sides
PIZZA HUT (PHD)

Tel: (08) 3838 8388
www.pizzahut.vn
Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers
SCOOZI
Tel: (08) 3823 5795
www.scoozipizza.com
Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts
WILLY WOOS
Tel: (08) 3941 5433
www.blackcatsaigon.com
US-style chicken and
waffles
VIETNAMMM
www.vietnammm.com
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE
AQUABIKING
65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao
Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
008985
aquafit.vn
CHIARA SQUINZI
Tel: 01278 163620
laholista.com
Experienced health coach
and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients
achieve health and weight
goals through an innovative
holistic approach of food,
body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.
PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Saigons longest running
Italian restaurant, classic fare is combined with a
special contemporary menu
that brings together a fusion
of European dishes, cooked
up with Italian flair. Excellent Facebook-based delivery service. Go to facebook.
com/Pendolasco2 for full
menu and info.
MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES

26B Thao Dien, Q2
100percentvn.com
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2630
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from the
likes of Fauchon. The deli
upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung
branch serves tasty baguette
rolls in a comfortable lounge
area with free WiFi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured
meats in town. Free delivery
for Districts 1, 2 and 3.
TAMAGO
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag
in Thao Dien, Tamago has
indoor and out door seating,
a terrace and private rooms.
They have a ladies night on
Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on
Saturday evenings. Have a
second restaurant in Mui Ne.
THE DECK
MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon
River across from Thanh
Da Island, this innovative
restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a
Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails
and a long wine list.
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also
offering fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving caloriecalibrated meals.
CLASSIC FINE FOODS
GROCERIES & IMPORTER

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street),
Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the citys five
star hotels, also distributing
brands like San Pellegrino,
Rougie foie gras, Galbani
cheese, fresh poultries,
meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all
the products at the gourmet
shop on location.
KIDS
www.firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for
two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training
wheels or stabilisers, and
support proper balance development.
MEDICAL & DENTAL

3744 2000
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
SALONS & SPAS

AUTHENTIC SPA
Thao Dien Village, Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744
2222
AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
VINO WINE SHOP
CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER
BOXING / FITNESS
49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2. Tel:
0947 77 13 26
Cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An Phu,
started by fitness guru Cyril
features the same personalized mentorship Cyrils
clients love. Includes yoga,
boxing and fitness for kids
and adults every day. No
membership fees. Pay for
classes in installments of
10. Also has kids activites
classes. Monday to Friday
every week at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by
Cyril himself.
WINE SHOP
Corner of Thao Dien & Duong
2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines
with a portfolio spanning
old and new world as well
as everything in between.
The outdoor terrace area is
the perfect spot to sample a
new tipple.
HAIRDRESSERS
CONCEPT COIFFURE
(08) 3519 4625
Conceptcoiffure.vn
Open daily from 9am to 8pm
Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship
salon Venus Coiffure to a villa
in Thao Dien. A full range of
services is offered including
SHOPPING MALLS
DIAMOND PLAZA
FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY
BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS

100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: 0909 540030
a dedicated kids salon.
100%
PENDOLASCO
TACO BICH
www.tacobich.com
Homemade Mexican fare
HEALTHY CAF FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)
3602 6385
CHEZ GUIDO
Tel: (08) 3898 3747
www.chezguido.com
Vietnamese, international
fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches
THE LOOP
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON
104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,

Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321
34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08)

3825 7750
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel:
(08) 2222 0383
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
PARKSON PLAZA
35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3827 7636
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
SAIGON CENTRE
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)
3829 4888
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
SAIGON SQUARE
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,
Q1
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics
SAIGON TAX
Trading Centre
135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3821 3849
9am to 9.30pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics, Souvenirs,
Restaurant
VINCOM CENTER

simply email us on
well try our best
70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

Tel: (08) 3936 9999
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
ZEN PLAZA
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel:
(08) 3925 0339
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
HCMC
with an outdoor courwrd,
the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to
relax. The mouth-watering
western menu is on the expensive side.
district 3
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES /

CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS /
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
ACOUSTIC
Th
n
LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3930 2239
Though only 1km from the
city centre, Acoustic is well
off most foreigners radars.
Come see the Vietnamese
house band play nightly, as
well as performances from
overseas bands and guest
artists.
CLOUD 9
LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE

6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong
Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel:
0907 502951
CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS
LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE

224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948
031323
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Showcases a variety of different types of music anything from rock, pop and rap
to Latino as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica,
Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana
and Guns n Roses. Covered
live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music
starts at 8.30pm.
ONTOP BAR
Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba
Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822

4866
Located on the 20th floor
with stunning views of the
city, houses an upscale,
contemporary interior and
an outdoor terrace. A good
venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip
ambience.
CAFES & ICE-CREAM

ANS INTERIOR CAF
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WOODSTOCK BAR
MUSIC BAR / CAFE

39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3.
Tel: (08) 39304075
metallicbar.com
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BARS & CLUBS
i
Ha
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BAM SKATE SHOP

SKATEWEAR / STREET
0903 641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BOO
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STREETWEAR
187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3
District
10
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District 1
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TEA ROOM
335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3,
Tel: 0169 3583563
operationteavietnam.com
Traverse a wooden bridge
over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000,
in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware
available for purchase.
Tr
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Binh Thanh
DISTRICT 3
OPERATION: TEAROOM
40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel:

(08) 3823 3398
BUDS
ICE-CREAM PARLOUR
Tel: (08) 3932 2778
budsicecream.com.vn
HIDEAWAY
INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building
boo.vn
CRAFTS
& FURNITURE
ATC FURNITURE
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08)
39326455
SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)
38403946
atc-craft.com
Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living
space of your home? Come
to ATC FURNITURE, you will
find a wide range of moderndesigned products (sofas,
chairs, beds...) manufactured
from eco-friendly materials
(water hyacinth & rattan). Our
outdoor (poly rattan) wickerfurniture range is suited
to your balcony or garden
space. A hanging (hammock)
chair is irresistible for complete relaxation after a long
day at work.
HCMC
SPORTS
REMIX DECO
INDOOR FURNITURE
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com
EAT
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
CRICKET
ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET
CLUB OF SAIGON)
Richard Carrington, Tel:
0909 967 353
richard.carrington@market-edge.asia
eccsaigon.com
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF

SAIGON)
Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228
770 038
deepteshgill@gmail.com
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN

SAIGON)
Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
973 244
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON

CRICKET CLUB)
Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail.
com
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA

CRICKET CLUB)
Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903
998 824
SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM
SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)
Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB)

Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908
200 598
manish@ambrij.com
FOOTBALL
AND
RUGBY
024 or Viet Luu 0909 500

171.
astere@hotmail.fr
SAIGON RAIDERS
Saigonraiders.com
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
saigonrugbyfootballclub@
yahoo.com
SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
SPORTS GENERAL
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS

LEAGUE
thesidl.com
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL

CLUB
saigonshootersnetball.
blogspot.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY
BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
Namsonsteak.com
HIGHWAY 4
NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE
3602 2069
highway4.com
Named after the mountain
highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to
the north, Highway 4 serves
up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does
excellent Son Tinh branded
rice wine.
JOIE DE VIVRE
28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)

7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
WESTERN / FRENCH
292/10, Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066
facebook.com/joie.vn
SQUASH
PHO HOA
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc

Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext 176
TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

436A/33 Ba Thang Hai,
Q10, Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van

Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
gauloisdesaigon.com
XROCK CLIMBING
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON
7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,

Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
Contact Fred on 0919 709
BANH CANH HOANG TY
RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM
AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
3820 7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Open for over a decade, Au
Lac Do Brazil is home to the
city's best Churrasco menu
with a wide variety of meats
from Calabrian sausage
and picanha through to
D-rump steak and smoked
hams. Pioneering the eatas-much-as-you-can theme
in Vietnam, Passadors bring
the meat skewers to your
table, and you, the customer
then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.
Best washed down with red
wine or a Caipirinha or five.
PHO EATERY
260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3829 7943
SHRI
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower,
7274 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
A breezy terrace, indoor
bar and separate dining
room with sweeping views
over central Saigon make
up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought
out and romantic venue,
with excellent food.
SUSHI DINING AOI
SUSHI / SASHIMI
53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh
Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930
0039
sushidiningaoi.com
Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi,
sashimi, and other dishes
such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles
in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set
lunches. Probably the best
sushi in town.
KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS
TIB
HUE / VIETNAMESE
(08) 3829 7242
Tibrestaurant.com.vn
VIET CHAY
VEGAN
Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
vietchay.vn

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY
YOGA
Tel: 0909 648193
michelle@michellelloyd.com
michellelloyd.com
American trained and licensed massage therapist
and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and
massage spaces in Districts
2 and 3. Private and group
yoga classes. Home visits
available.
SAIGON BELLY DANCE
BELLY DANCE
No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do
Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832
9429
saigonbellydance.com
HAIRDRESSERS
YKC HAIR STUDIO

(08) 3829 2791
MEDICAL & DENTAL

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222
starlightdental.net
Longestablished, modern
clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese
dentists. A favourite of the
foreign residential community due to its modern and
effective treatments allied
with extremely reasonable
prices.
AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC

CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
A clinic provides world class
Chiropractic, Physiotherapy
and Foot Care. We specialize
in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee
DANCENTER
53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,
funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
this modern dance studio.
HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER

37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Inspirato.edu.vn
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON

19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids
in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and
saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a
mixture of private and group classes.
PIANO CLASSES
Tel: 01225 636682
morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
SAIGON MOVEMENT
Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com
SAIGON SEAL TEAM

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
SAIGON PONY CLUB

38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Saigonponyclub.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to
16 years and private lessons for children and adults.
Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
TAE KWON DO
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
VINSPACE
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
HCMC
pain, sports injuries, and all
types of foot problems. We
also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome
in children and adult.
INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL

CLINIC
phu my hung
PANORMA FITNESS
L in
V
n
Tr
nh
C
Ph
Nguy
c
n
n
V
n
T
n
Tr
n
L
n
uy
INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS

206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel:
01654 058401 / 01629
546534
cezsaigon@gmail.com
gB
g
n

simply email us on
well try our best
n
Ti
t
nD
T
Ng

(08) 3829 2791
ykcspa.com
Ph
YKC SPA
n
T
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
H Huy Tp
AVEDA HERBAL SPA
n
B
SALONS & SPAS
g
n
L
Nguyn c C
EASTERN MEDICINE
Tel: (08) 3932 6579
n
uy
Nguyn Vn Linh
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My
Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277
The-crescent.com
Overlooking the Crescent
complexs lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a
gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track
their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash
courts, pool, steam bath and
nutrition bar.
Nguyn
ng Ch
Ng
Linh
CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB
n
uy
Ng
Nguyn Vn
MEDICAL & DENTAL
DISTRICT 7
AMERICAN EYE CENTER
PHU MY HUNG
BAKERIES
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE
TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
HOSPITAL
ng
yn
Ch
N gu
INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC

MEDICAL CLINIC

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1
Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908
453 338
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE
& YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL

Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
Globally renowned provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare
offers full dental services
in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide
high skilled dental service.
Orthodontics is also available.
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
The worlds leading provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7
emergency care. Specialist
care is available in many
fields.
South sets this joint apart.
LAMOUR
BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn
SAVOURE
BAKERY
Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7
SIMRANS
BAKERY
SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908
828552
simrans.sg
BARS & CLUBS

BANANA BAR
EXPAT BAR
SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3282
A downstairs pool table, an
open, street side terrace and
specials on Tiger draft, this
fun but slightly run-down
joint is a local haunt for many
a resident of Saigon South.
PEACHES
CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
0999
Known as the Curry Pub,
this pleasant Saigon South
watering hole mixes the beer
with all things curry anything from Goan fish curries

to beef rendangs and more.
A popular local haunt.
RUBY SOHO
CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 3900
mekong-creations.org
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen
Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271
7758
mekong-quilts.org
EAT
BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON
INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and
bar on The Crescent with
great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned
international fare, all set in
a contemporary, spacious
environment.
EL GAUCHO
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton
Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413
7355
bellavitafurniture.com
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110; S17 Sky
Garden, Nguyen Van Linh,
Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758
PAN-VIETNAMESE
The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304
MING DYNASTY
LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE

23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 5555
NATHALIES
THE TAVERN
EXPAT & SPORTS BAR

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang
Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
3900
The first bar established in
Saigon South, great food,
great music and loads of
laughs. Has regular live
music nights, theme nights
and a variety of live sports
events to please everybody.
Big screens and outdoor
seating add to the mix, with
BBQs available for parties
and events.
HOANG YEN
Unit CR1-12, The Crescent,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.
THAI / VIETNAMESE
S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 0822
nathaliesrestaurant.com
SCOTT AND BINHS
INTERNATIONAL
15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948
901465
bizuhotel.com/main/pages/
scottbinhs.php
Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this
restaurant boasts a full bar,
ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus
on the creative use of local
ingredients.
VIVA TAPAS BAR & GRILL
GRILL & BAR/ TAPAS

R4-28 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7
facebook.com/VIVATapasBar.pmh
As well as classical Andalusian tapas, VIVA serves up a
selection of original but flavourful dishes for those who
dare to try. A Mediterranean-themed interior and a desire to provide something not
presently available in Saigon
5th Floor, Crescent Plaza,

105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7
Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759
www.americaneyecentervn.
com
American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My
Hung, providing eye care
services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist
with 17 years of experience.
The American-standard
facility is equipped with
state of the art equipments
for the early detection and
treatment of important eye
diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic
eye disease treatments.
Cosmetic procedures such
as eyelid surgery and Botox
injections are also available.
FV HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 3333
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital
whose standard of health
care matches that found
anywhere, with 19 fulltime
French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing
expertise in 30 medical and
surgical areas, especially
maternity care.
HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER
EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,
Tel: 0906 684 969
Ph Bin Patong
Ti mt im dng chn ca chuyn i, Nick Ross
vi tm gi t i ca mnh, lang thang trong khu
Patong, bi bin chnh Phuket. Di y l
nhng g anh tm thy
th trn bin ni ting nht ca Phuket,

Patong khng c ting tt. Patong hay
cn gi l 'Kuta ca Thi Lan', l i th
ca Pattaya t b bin pha ty ny, cng
c nhng iu c bn chung ca mt vng bin
mt tri, bin, bia v cm gic mnh gi r.
V vy, khi ti bc ra khi thuyn vi tm gi
trong tay trc khi thuyn i n im tip theo,
ti ngh rng mnh chun b y thng tin.
Patong l mt th trn r tin in hnh ca Thi.
Tuy nhin, c mt ci g trc quan hp
dn v ni ny, mt cuc tn cng vo cc gic
quan, mt s sng ng vy gi bn. Ti ngh
mnh khng thch Patong cho lm, nhng khi
nhn vo mi th, ti thy mnh b cm d.
C l l do s nhn nhp khng ngng
ca ma du lch khi thnh ph bin ny tr
nn ng c vi cc ca hng dc ph, bn
gi r v rt nhiu qun bar. C l l do
nhng tim massage nhiu bt tn vi nhn
vin trang im mc vy ngn ng bn ngoi,
cho mi bn. Hoc c l l do cc bng n
neon mi ni, bng no cng y mu sc c
gng vt tri hn cc bng khc.
Chuyn bn yu ght nhng ni nh th ny
bao nhiu khng quan trng nhng bi bin
ct trng nh Cancun, Mallorca, Kuta, Pattaya
tt c u c mt ci g thu ht khch du
lch, v thi thc h quay tr li. Patong khng
l mt ngoi l
C l, ti khng mun chn Patong cho
k ngh ca mnh. Nhng khi c ,
gi y ti hiu ti sao nhiu ngi khc li
sn sng chn n.
Vo Ty Nguyn
Mt trin lm nh gii thiu v cuc sng v chn dung
ca dn tc thiu s Vit Nam ca 60 nm trc, ang
din ra ti Bo Tng Dn Tc Hc Vit Nam ti H Ni
hi Jean - Marie Duchange c y thc

n Vit Nam, ng em theo y
cc thit b t Php cng vi hai my
nh mt Rolleiflex v mt Semflex.
l vo u nhng nm 50, ng nhn thy
mt c hi m vo thi im ch c vi ngi
c th c c.
Lm vic cho B Y t Cng Cng cho Min
Ni Min Nam ng Dng, ng c c hi
tri qua ba nm n thm nm vng ca min
Trung Vit Nam v tip xc vi mt s dn tc
min ni. Mc d ng khng phi l "mt nh
nhn chng hc hay mt nhip nh gia", ng
vn quyt nh "tham gia". Cm n "chic hp
trng phim v my phng nh mang t Php
v iu quan trng nht mt my nh hai
ng knh 6x6 [nh dng trung bnh, 56mm x
56mm]", ng ghi chp nhng iu mt thy v
nhng ngi m ng lm vic cng.

Sinh ra Saint - Nazaire ti Php,
Duchange qua i vo nm 2007. Tuy nhin,
nh con gi v chu gi ca mnh, di sn ca
ng vn cn sng mi. Nm 2013, 200 phim
bn m c tng cho Bo Tng Dn Tc
Hc Vit Nam nh l mt phn ca l k nim
40 nm quan h ngoi giao gia Vit Nam v
Php. Nhng hnh nh t liu v hi quan,
trang phc, kiu tc, dng c m nhc, nghi l
v cc nghi l ca ngi Min Ni. Khi c qu
nhiu thng tin b tht lc, nhng bc nh
ny tr thnh mt ghi nhn lch s quan trng
i vi i sng ca ng bo dn tc thiu s
ca Vit Nam.
c bit cm n ti Bo Tng Dn Tc Hc
Vit Nam cho php chng ti s dng li
nhng hnh nh trn
VIETNAM AIRLINES S BAY TI SN BAY HEATHROW

Sn bay Heathrow ca Lun n gi y c tin
vui dnh cho nhng ai thch bay trc tip n
thnh ph ny m khng mun phi ti sn bay
Gatwick.
T ngy 31/3, hng Vietnam Airlines s bt
u nm chuyn bay trc tip hng tun t H
Ni v Thnh ph H Ch Minh n sn bay ln
nht v d di chuyn nht ca Anh Quc sn

bay Heathrow ca Lun n.
V l mt trong nhng im n quan trng,
Vietnam Airlines s a my bay Boeing 787
Dreamliner mi vo hot ng ti Heathrow
trong khi Gatwick vn l my bay Boeing 777.
Xin qu khch yn v!
V KCH FRANKENSTEIN
Thng trc, mt cng b y e da "Ti

mun git ngi" trn Twitter ca mt r-bt
lm cho chng ta c mt vin cnh v tng
lai ht sc in khng. Cu hi bt h dnh
cho sn phm sp ti ca nh ht TNT Theatre
Britain v v Frankenstein l: "Pht trin bao
nhiu l qu nhiu?"
nhng nh ht tuyt vi nht Vit Nam,
cu hi ny mt ln na c a ra theo
chiu hng con ngi, di s ch o ca
o din Paul Stebbings ngi trc
khm ph phong cch "hi kch mang m
cht Gothic" trong v Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde
nm trc. V vy, theo thng co bo ch, "tc
phm mnh m ny cho thy l do ti sao ci
tn 'Frankenstein' li vang di trong th gii
hin i ging nh mt vi tc phm khc... C
l n l biu tng mnh nht cho vic chng
ta s hi mt tng lai ngoi tm kim sot ca
con ngi."
Frankenstein: Qui Vt v Huyn Thoi s
c biu din ti Nh ht H Ni (1 Trng
Tin, Hon Kim, H Ni) vo ngy 18/3 lc
20:00, v ti Nh ht Thnh ph H Ch Minh
(7 Cng trng Lam Sn, Q1, TP H Ch Minh)
vo ngy 20/3 lc 11:00 v 20:00, v mt ln
na vo ngy 21/3 lc 20;00. V s c bn ti
phng v. bit thm thng tin, xin email v
gma@adg-europe.com
CUC THI DRAGON DASH
Bn ang tm kim c hi c ln ln trn

bn bn hay m sm vo cc chng ngi vt
nhn to trong khi ang chy tht nhanh vi
ting nhc c ng n ? Khng c dp no
hn cuc thi Dragon Dash. c bit cuc thi
ny c t chc bi 'cc chuyn gia nhiu
nm kinh nghim', Dare Vietnam l cng ty
chuyn v "cc s kin th thao cho nhng
ngi yu thch mo him".
Cng c khuyn l bn nn ginh ly c
hi ngy 5/4 ny "th hin sc mnh tinh
thn ln th cht thng qua cc hot ng khc

nhau bao gm nh chy, nhy, leo tro v chinh
phc mi th thch trong vng ua di 5 km!"
Ti sao li khng ch?
L mt s kin khng th b qua cho bt c
ai thch th vi cc hot ng c tnh ng i
cao v cng nh... ln ln trn bn bn. Bn c
dm tham gia mt i rng?
bit thm chi tit, xin gh trang web
darevietnam.com hoc email v info@darevietnam.
com. Gim gi c ng k theo nhm!
CP T LI LN 2
Cp T Li ln hai ca mt trong nhng cuc

ua kh khn nht tng din ra Vit Nam
s c t chc Vn Quc Gia Ct Tin. C
hai mc , Th Thch v Dc Sc vi chiu
di cuc ua l khong 38km v 57km, cha k
n phn thi ua thuyn kayak/bi. Nu bn
c th dnh mt ngy ri kim chng kh
nng ca bn vi thin nhin, cp T Li c
tiu chun v ng mn, i ni, cnh ng
v rng rm cho bn.
Cp T Li s din ra vo ngy 18 19/4
ti Vn Quc Gia Ct Tin. Ph tham gia l
3,2 triu ng mi ngi cho mt i hai ngi,
trong bao gm chi ph n, v di chuyn.
Lin talai-adventure.vn bit thm chi tit
The final say

THE FINAL SAY
NATIONAL
The Inside Story of

the Guerrilla War
Chapter 6: Ratios and Battle Tactics

For the next 10 issues, Word is presenting excerpts from Wilfred Burchetts seminal
account of the American War. A close friend of Ho Chi Minh, Burchett was the only
westerner to be embedded with the Viet Cong frontlines in the early 1960s.
This work was written in 1964
Of Arms and Men
The Liberation Fronts armed forces have
obviously not been behind other branches
in rapid expansion. How many effectives
the Front has is a sore spot, but I am sure
there are more than the highest US estimates
I have seen published. Dang Thanh Chau,
who is vice president of the Liberation Youth
Federation, told me that 500,000 young
people between the ages of 16 and 25 were
enrolled in the Federation. Of these, 100,000
had left their villages to enlist in the armed
forces and other Front organisations.
This did not include those in local selfdefense units, and Chau said that at least
half of Federation members who remain in
the villages are expected to enlist in them.
Chau, a quiet, earnest young man with
thick-lensed spectacles, listed the main
immediate tasks of his organisation as:

Get the maximum number of youth in the
liberated zones enlisted in the Fronts regular
armed forces and guerillas.
Use all forms of struggle to prevent
youth in the Saigon-controlled areas from being
constipated.
Appeal to the youth in the Saigoncontrolled zones to come to the liberated zones
and enlist in their armed forces.
Push ahead with dismantling strategic
hamlets in the Saigon-controlled areas.
Consolidate and develop the resistance or
combat villages in the liberated zones.
As to how fast the Front forces are
expanding, a regiment I visited provides
a good example. It was formed in October
1961 with only 300 men and 120 rifles,
the latter either homemade or old French

models, contributed by former combatants
of the armed religious sects. Their first
engagement took place within a month of
the regiment being formed, an ambush in
which they captured three machine guns
and 25 rifles, killed a district commander
and captured his deputy.
Every month for a year, they carried out
at least one operation, including (in June
1962) an audacious attack against the Trung
Hoa parachutist training centre near Saigon
which yielded a rich haul of arms. Then in
November 1962 they took four months off
for a political and technical training course,
summing up all their experiences, negative
as well as positive.
It was typical of the nature of the Front
forces and of the war that the regiment

could decide to take four months off from
the war for political and technical education.
It meant that by the end of 1962 they were
calling the tune in the area where they
operated; it was they and not Saigon who
decided when and where there would be
engagements.
After the course, continued the
commander, a straight, soldierly figure, we
had a clearer idea of our mission. We saw it
better against the background of the whole
struggle; our men had a firmer political
stand and their morale was heightened
further. Our first operation afterwards
was March 24, 1963, when we attacked the
key Sam Xoo stronghold. We wiped out
the garrison and the enemy was forced to
withdraw from three more posts.
The regiment carried out 14 operations
during the next 12 months. On the last
one I was taken along with a battalion on
a two-day operation. It resulted in three
posts being wiped out, and the strategic
hamlets they controlled were dismantled.
By the end of 1963, the regiment was up to
full strength in men and arms. Nearly 600
pieces of its present armament are captured
US arms, including 37mm machine guns,
highly appreciated against helicopters and
planes, 57mm recoilless cannon which are
so efficient against tanks and blockhouses.
The rest of their arms were made in the local
arsenals.
Between the end of 1961 and 1963, this
regiment had trebled its effectives and had
captured five modern arms for every old
one it started out with. I believe this is a
fair average of what has been going on in
all Front units. It illustrates the magnitude
of the problem of the US High Command
in Saigon. The original idea of General
Maxwell Taylor and the highest military
pundits in the Pentagon was that in guerilla
warfare a ten or eleven to one superiority is
essential as a starting point in anti-guerilla
operations.
At the end of 1961, when the USA moved
into South Vietnam in a big way, setting up a
US command in Saigon under General Paul
D. Harking, they calculated that Diemist
numerical superiority was around ten to
one. It seems this was not far out. General
Harkins plan was to increase this to a 20 to
one superiority by the end of 1962. According
to British experience in Malaya, the pundits
believed, the remaining resistance could
then be cleaned up within six months. The
more favourable ratio was to be achieved
by a speedy expansion of the Saigon forces;
the wiping out of a substantial part of the
guerillas. In fact the expansion targets were
never reached; the desertion rate on the
contrary was stepped up; the guerilla forces
expanded instead of diminishing. The result
of that first year of US command was to
reduce a ten to one superiority to one of
about six or seven to one.
War of Movement
On the evening of Mar. 16, I marched with a
battalion at the regiment referred to earlier
together with the regimental commander

to a point about four miles northwest of
Tay Ninh. We marched in single columns,
the troops adorned with bits of greenery,
until sundown when there was no further
danger of planes. They were all smiles
and confidence; some of them marched in
pairs with bazookas slung between two
pairs of shoulders; others with base plates
and barrels of mortars divided between
them, and a surprisingly high proportion of
automatic arms. Uniforms were nondescript,
according to the colour of the cloth that had
been made available to the tailoring unit. But
the Fronts military leaders do not think it
is essential that their troops should be clad
exactly the same; the main thing is that their
aims and ideas about the enemy should be
uniform.
At around 10pm, I was left swinging
in a hammock in a safe position, with an
interpreter and a couple of guards; troops
and command post moved on, with lamps
out and no cigarettes. The target was a post
guarding a strategic hamlet at Cai Xuyen,

three miles from Tay Ninh city. For my own
safety, I was not permitted to get any closer
to the scene of action.
Zero hour was 11.30pm and a few
minutes later, I heard some bursts of rifle
and automatic fire that ended surprisingly
quickly. Around midnight, however, there
was a terrific series of explosions and flashes
all around, and we took to the slit trenches.
Artillery and mortar shells were bursting
everywhere and it seemed the battalion had
run into far more serious opposition than
expected.
A relatively small force was being used
to attack the post while a much larger one
was ready to deal with the reinforcements.
By the noise, it seemed a full-scale battle
was raging. It kept up for about an hour,
then died away. But in the small hours of
the morning, the commander turned up
full of smiles and said: There was no fight.
We started to cut through the barbed wire
with shears, but as there was no reaction,
we hacked through the wooden poles and
toppled over big sections of the fence. When
we fired a few rounds at the post and started
the assault, the garrison fled into the houses;
some of them hid in the wells. It took us
nearly two hours to round up 31 of them.
They never fired a single shot.

But what was all that artillery and mortar
fire? Ah, that always happens. If other
posts know that one is being attacked, they
fire their artillery all over the place. They
dont aim at anything in particular but they
figure if they keep on firing at least their post
wont be attacked that night.
Next morning we waited for the counterattack with reinforcements, but nothing
happened. It had been expected that there
would be a fair-sized battle during the day
and the battalion would withdraw during
the night. But apart from a few mesdemoiselles
there was nothing.
The commander decided to attack another
post the second night, though this was not
in the programme. After dusk, we moved
off again, this time to the south of Tay Ninh.
I was left in a dugout on the banks of the
Cam Co Long River. The target this time was
Thanh Dong, less than three miles southwest
of the city.
The enemy has some gunboats
downstream, said the commander, and
he is bound to come out this time. There
were almost the same noises as the previous
night, starting around midnight. The
commander turned up around 8am with
a disgusted look on his face. Nothing,
he said. The garrison fled without

firing a shot. And if they havent sent
reinforcements by now, it means theyre not
coming at all. He decided on something
really audacious to attack in broad
daylight a post at Thanh Trung, only oneand-a-half miles from the city.
Theyll have to send reinforcements
from Tay Ninh this time, he said, and after
downing a few bowls of rice, he strode off
again. But, incredible as it seems, at the
sight of the Viet Cong moving towards them
in broad daylight, the Thanh Trung garrison
fled into Tay Ninh City, and again there
was no reaction. In the actions, including
the night bombardments, the battalion had
not a single casualty. Each of the three posts
controlled a strategic hamlet and, once
the garrison had been dealt with or fled,
the people turned out to help the troops
demolish the barbed wire fences and post
fortifications. The 20-odd weapons captured
at Cai Xuyen were turned over to a selfdefense corps set up on the spot and the
battalion detached a few men at each hamlet
to help them organise their defenses.
The commander regarded the operations
as a non-success. The main thing now
is to destroy the enemy forces in this area,
he said. We dont have any transport to
get at their main forces quickly. It is much

better for us to take advantage of their
helicopters and trucks to bring their forces
to us, where it is convenient to deal with
them. But on this occasion it failed they
didnt come out.
To celebrate, however, on the way back
to a base area the battalions hunting unit
shot two elephants and two wild boars; as
one elephant provides plenty of excellent
meat for several days for a whole battalion,
everyone was in high spirits. For several
days afterwards, I dined off wild boar soup
and elephant steaks, which one could easily
mistake for good filet mignon.
The wipe out enemy-posts-andannihilate-reinforcements tactic remained
the main Liberation Army counter to the
superior mobility of the Saigon forces. The
New York Times international edition of May
16-17, 1964, for instance, reported on a battle
25 miles north of Saigon in which half of
two Ranger companies were wiped out,
with at least 54 killed:
Reliable sources said the ambush was set by
four to eight Viet Cong companies numbering
at least 300 men. They baited the trap shortly
after midnight with simultaneous attacks
on five outposts clustered near a provincial
highway... The defenders fought in the eerie light
of parachute flares dropped by US Air Force

C-123s to illuminate the battlefield.
Ranger relief companies set off on foot at
dawn, marching directly into the Viet Cong trap.
The Viet Cong then opened fire from all sides of
the road...
An American source describe the fighting
as one of the bloodiest encounters of the year.
We make the same mistakes all the time, an
American adviser commented. There is an
average of one major Viet Cong ambush every
week. American advisers are concentrating much
of their effort on making the South Vietnamese
ambush-conscious.
And this gloomy account is capped as
usual by the wishful-thinking estimate
of Viet Cong casualties. Only three rebel
bodies were found, but a Vietnamese officer
estimated that 100 were killed, mainly by
artillery.
The Ranger companies are regarded
as the elite, most combat-ready troops
among the Saigon forces. They are the
pride of US instructors, specially trained
in guerilla tactics. In the Special Warfare
manual captured with the four US prisoners
at the Hiep Hoa Special Forces training
camp, the Rangers are always depicted as
on the giving and not the receiving end
of ambushes. In fact, the Liberation Army
has wiped out a large proportion of them

either in their beds or in operations such
as the New York Times reported. By the first
half of 1964, as the Rangers were in fact
the most combative troops, the Front was
concentrating its attention on them.
The only counter the US command has
yet found to the new tactic is to abandon
posts without waiting for a fight. Thus
after the overthrow of Ngo Dinh Diem,
General Harkins ordered the abandonment
of all posts garrisoned by less than 150
men, a total of around 300 posts, mainly
in the rich Ca Mau peninsula area of the
Mekong Delta, seating a vacuum which was
immediately filled by the Front forces.
Wilfred Burchett was an Australian reporter
often described at the rebel journalist for his
stories about the American War from the other
side. After years of being at odds with the
Australian government, last year the Melbourne
Press Club inducted him into their Hall of Fame.
Burchett was also the journalist to break the
scoop of the 20th century the devastation
caused by dropping nuclear bombs on Hiroshima
and Nagasaki.
Special thanks to George Burchett for
allowing us to republish this work. Please note
that some place names in this piece have been
changed to reflect their modern-day spelling
The last call

On the back of making the first-ever
reality TV show about photography
Photo Face-Off we catch up
with award-winning, Hanoi-based
photographer Justin Mott
I based myself in Hanoi because
from the moment I arrived here as a tourist I felt welcomed. Visually the city is
amazing. It has so much character, there is
always something new to shoot and I never
get bored exploring. I travel all over Southeast Asia for work, but Hanoi will always
be my home.
Working in Southeast Asia is a
blessing. Each country is unique and every

assignment is diverse. Living in this region
allows me the opportunity to shoot editorial, commercial and wedding work. I love
all three sectors.
My break as a photographer came

when I was assigned a story in Malaysia for
the New York Times. It was a tricky story to
get access to and my image made the front
page. After that I was on the radar of the
editors there. From there they have sent me
all over Asia Ive now covered over 100
assignments for them.
Being successful is personal. For me

success is loving your job and I absolutely
love what I do.
Good photojournalism should be real
never fake a story or fake reality. Your job

as a photojournalist is to document the truth
and be fair to both sides of the story.
The age of the DSLR has made a

lot of professional photographers angry
because they think its saturating our market.
I disagree. I think its great because it makes
photography more accessible. More people can
share the experience and joy of photography.
Lighting is where you create your mood
to your image. Its an element of photography often overlooked by professional

photographers. A key part of your personal
style is how you see and capture light.
Working with other photographers

is fantastic. I love being pushed by my
colleagues and I love sharing ideas and
techniques.
Photo Face-Off... was a one-of-a-kind

experience. I never thought my ugly face
would make it on TV. It was loads of fun being part of a reality show about photography
and I met some talented young photogra-
phers all over Southeast Asia. I'm hoping for

a second season.
can provoke an emotion with your images,

people will remember them.
Doing assignments for the New York

Times is in my opinion the pinnacle of
If there was one thing I could change

about the world of photography I
photojournalism. Its been an honour and a

dream since I was at university.
The work I am most proud of is

probably my personal work on Agent
Orange victims because Ive seen it have a
direct impact on people.
Being featured on the BBC was
would tell people to stop following the rules

of photography. Sure, a basic understanding
of the technical side of photography is imperative, but once you grasp that you must
learn to break the rules and discover your
own personal style. If you follow all the rules
you will just shoot like every other person
out there and what fun is that.
a huge surprise. I respect their level of

journalism and they have such huge reach
globally. I hope I represented Vietnam fairly
in my images.
My ultimate goal is to keep growing

my brand Mott Visuals, and to keep growing and improving personally as a visual
storyteller.
Images say more than words
Photo Face-Off is presently showing on History

Channel Asia historyasia.com/shows/
photofaceoff
because if they are done properly, they are

emblazoned in someones mind. If you

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NH XUT BN LAO NG

CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

Come and see

A fully accredited IB World School,

Carla, Grade 5 & Ella, Grade 2

Hoegaarden Belgium 4.9 ALC

010 / Meet Fire with Fire

Lunar New Year fireworks

011 / The Big Five

Events to look out for this month

048 / Smile for the Camera

052 / Portraits of Vietnam

Racing to the top of Vietnams tallest

014 / The Disciples of Escoffier

The pinnacle of French cuisine

018 / Le Truc to Kim Ma

Easing congestion in the capital. But at

PePe La Poule serves up fusion cuisine at

Recording the idiosyncrasies of this land

012 / The Vertical Run

114 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

Getting that perfect grin

082 / Into the Highlands

EAT & DRINK

086 / Burning Season

Beyond photographic clichs

094 / The Salt Fields

The Vietnam that few ever see

102/ Preserving the Past

Saigon is losing its heritage

110 / Arsenic in the Water

116 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: My Van Than

118 / Mystery Diner HCMC

Contemporary yet traditional at San Fu

120 / Street Snacker HCMC

On the menu: Com Ga Xoi Mo

Female DJs take the stand

A case for buying water filters

168 / The Empty Wok

A day trip to Phuket

172 / Student Eye

026 / To-Do List

176 / A World of Good

155 / HCMC City Guide

184 / Tieng Viet

164 / Coffee Cup

036 / To-Do List

166 / Top Eats A

170 / Top Eats B

136 / Hanoi City Guide

138 / Coffee Cup

Chapter 6 of Wilfred Burchetts classic

146 / The Alchemist

140 / Recalling Hanoi

192 / The Last Call

150 / The Therapist

142 / Top Eats

Justin Mott is putting together two unlikely

152 / Medical Buff

145 / Food Promos

154 / Book Buff

158 / Business Buff

For this months cover story, we asked some