Word Vietnam June2015 Print Issue

Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực
Vietnam Edition / Tập 6 2015

june 2015
not for sale
Looking
for Love
om
.c
am
tn
ie
dv
Nhà Xuất Bản Lao Động

or
w
Hoegaarden − Belgium − 4.9 ALC
Stella Artois − Belgium − 5.0 ALC
Leffe Blond − Belgium − 6.6 ALC
Contents
June 2015
062
090
050
THE TALK INSIDER 090 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

We try La Badiane, and it’s not bad
010 / So You Love Vietnamese 050 / The Ambassador (get the pun?)
Food? Ted Osius is looking forward to the
But you hate dissenting opinions. next 20 years 092 / Street Snacker Hanoi
Hmm. On the menu: Kem Caramen
052 / The Historian
011 / The Big Five Meeting the wizard of Kim Lan 094 / Mystery Diner HCMC
Events to look out for Checking out a Thao Dien
this month 058 / The Nepal Earthquake institution
Travelling through the devastation
BRIEFINGS 096 / Street Snacker HCMC
062 / Looking for Love On the menu: Kem Dua Thai
014 / This is Thingyan The ups and downs of dating
Getting wet in the New Year FASHION
EAT & DRINK
018 / ASEAN Pride 2.0 098 / Don Draper is Dead
Kicking out the jams, and the 080 / The Best Mexican Food But classic elegance lives on
homophobes in Saigon
We ate all the tacos
024 / Animal Rescue & Care
Has Been Rescued!
A new lease on life for 080
all involved
2 | Word June 2015 | wordvietnam.com 098

Contents
June 2015
104
120
182
TRAVEL 133 / Bar Stool 144 / Medical Buff
104 / 10 Reasons to Visit 135 / Coffee Cup 145 / Book Buff

Kazakhstan
#11: The Valley of Balls 136 / Top Eats 152 / Business Buff
112 / The Expat’s Guide to 142 / Food Promos 154 / Body and Temple
Travelling with Dad
P.S. He wants 10 copies of 146 / City Map 159 / Student Eye
this issue
HCMC 168 / The Empty Wok
120 / Destination Zero
How to talk about your trip to Ninh 030 / To-Do List 174 / A World of Good
Van Bay
038 / Overscene 178 / Tieng Viet
123 / Travel Promos
148 / HCMC City Guide FINAL SAY
124 / The Motorbike Diaries
Part 3: A 1,000km detour 164 / Bar Stool 182 / The Inside Story of the
Guerrilla War
126 / Spotlight: Mui Ne 166 / Top Eats A Chapter 9: On the mountainside
Joe’s Garden Resort and Café
170 / Top Eats B 188 / The Last Call
HANOI Chuong Dang is a real catch
176 / City Map
040 / To-Do List
COLUMNS
046 / Overscene 138 / The Alchemist 188
128 / Hanoi City Guide 140 / The Therapist
4 | Word June 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Contributors
This month we asked Word contributors:
“What’s your ideal date spot?”
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
Ed Weinberg
EDITORIAL
Deputy Editor
I like something open-air and easy- nick ross Ed Weinberg
going, like an unpretentious roof bar Chief Editor Deputy Editor
editor@wordvietnam.com ed@wordvietnam.com
or a beer on the Rainbow Bridge. I try to
avoid “interview” type settings as much as possible MADs monsen David Mann
— I just want to live my life, and see who fits in it. Creative Director Staff Editor
mads@wordvietnam.com david.mann@wordvietnam.com
David Mann
Staff Editor Kyle Phanroy Niko Savvas
I like nice cocktail bars. They Photo Editor Online Editor
disguise my Liz Lemon-style kyle@wordvietnam.com niko@wordvietnam.com
hopelessness at dating and give
me an air of confidence. Also strong Francis Xavier Julie Vola
drinks in case I need to get drunk fast. Staff Reporter Staff Photographer
francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com julie@wordvietnam.com
Simon Stanley
Contributing Writer mark allan Nguyen Loc
Even after 11 years together, my Website & Graphic Designer Layout Designer
wife and I still have date nights. mark@wordvietnam.com loc@wordvietnam.com
The last time was to the new 5KU vu ha kim vy Jon Aspin
Station on the canal. A pretty view Marketing Staff Writer
with cheap beer, cheap food and a vy@wordvietnam.com jon@wordvietnam.com
fun atmosphere — there was even
a magician pulling birds out of thin air. If you’re
with the right person it doesn't really matter where
you go.
ADMINISTRATION
Nick Ross
Chief Editor Bao ross trang le
I haven't dated for years, but when General Director Chief Accountant
I did, it would be somewhere a little bao@wordvietnam.com trang@wordvietnam.com
romantic, but also a place where I
could make a quick getaway if things
didn't go quite right.
ADVERTISING
Kyle Phanroy
Photo Editor bao ross Trinh Bui chau giang
My typical date night with the General Director Sales Executive Area Manager Hanoi
girlfriend would either be Sushi Bar bao@wordvietnam.com trinh@wordvietnam.com giang@wordvietnam.com
and a movie, or a French steak house...
Le Steak is closed so we mainly do DISTRIBUTION SUBSCRIPTIONS
Sushi Bar. trinh@wordvietnam.com trang@wordvietnam.com
Vu Ha Kim Vy
Marketing For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609 689 or Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668
I prefer dinners at home under
candlelight, with food cooked by me. Special thanks to Huyen Tran, Dana McNairn, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm,
Riccha Arora, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, Family Medical Practice, Simon Stanley, Harry Hodge, Tae
Niko Savvas Jun Park, George Burchett, Owen Salisbury, Trung Del, Noey Neumark, Harris Spencer, Matt
Online Editor Dworzanczyk, Sue Fleming, Nguyen Ha Linh, Annalise Frank, Natalia Martinez, Rachel Cabakoff,
There’s no reason to limit yourself Amber Strellis, Quoc Tin and Lubu
to a single “ideal date spot” —
movement is freedom, and freedom
is the most stimulating aphrodisiac, Word is a registered © Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung
which is why the back of my van is so trademark. No content trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản
perfect. may be reproduced in quyền của Ấn phẩm Word của
any form without prior C.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông
Jon Aspin authorisation of the Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép
Staff Writer owners. không được phép sẽ bị xem là
The nape of my neck. If she’s rubbing vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện
it, something’s gone right. © Word - Duong Huynh hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã
Advertising JSC Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.
Chuyên Đề Du Lịch & Ẩm Thực

ISBN: 978-604-59-2903-2 Nhà xuất bản Lao Động Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: In đến 15.000 cuốn, khổ 20.5 x 27cm
175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội Võ Thị Kim Thanh Công Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền In tại Công Ty TNHH MTV In Trần Phú
ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Thông Dương Huỳnh 71 – 73 – 75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM.
Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Sửa bản in: Nick Ross 87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô www.tranphuprint.com
Chi nhánh phía Nam Trình bày: Bao Ross Thành, Phường 4, Q. 3, TP. HCM. Số ĐKKHXB: 99 - 2015 / CXBIPH / 40- 08 / LĐ
85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 QĐXB SỐ: 47 / QĐCN - LĐ. Ngày 29 / 05 / 2015.
TP. HCM Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 ISBN: 978-604-59-2903-2
ĐT: +84 8 3839 0970 Email: info@wordvietnam.com SÁCH CHUYÊN QUẢNG CÁO
Fax: +84 8 3925 7205 Website: www.wordvietnam.com In xong và nộp lưu chiểu Qúy 2 năm 2015.
Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

wordvietnam.com | June 2015 Word | 7
The
requires a gritting revamp. The map is edge stories. Check CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC
VIETNAM EDITION / TẬP 6 2015
of the teeth, an extra back and gone is the out our main feature
JUNE 2015
NOT FOR SALE
push. It’s not easy. division of businesses on dating and look at

Yet over the past and services into its content. You’ll see
three issues we’ve location. Instead we’ve one or two surprising
been making changes. returned to that simple articles in there.
Prelude Many of them are not

so obvious — a lot of
our focus has been
beast of ordering — the
alphabet — and have
divided our listings into
We don’t aim to
please everyone. It’s
an impossible task.
Looking
W
online. This month it’s two sections: Essentials But we do aim to
hen you been more about the and On the Town. have a voice. And we
have to magazine. It’s a work in intend to challenge for Love
put out a One change is our progress; it will take pre-conceived ideas.
196-page layout. Look at the front another two or three When we started out a
magazine every section, The Talk. It’s months to get our decade ago, by default
month, you don’t cleaner, has more white listings where we want everything we wrote
OM
.C
AM
TN
have a moment to space and, we hope, is them. But it’s a start. had to be happy, happy,
IE
DV
NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG
OR
W
breathe. The act of easier to read. We’re The content is also happy. That blissful,
completing it to a also running larger, changing. We’re now innocent past is the THIS MONTH'S COVER
tight deadline takes better quality photos. aiming at deeper, more Vietnam of old. Now
Cover by DH Advertising
up all your energy. Our listings section involved stories — we need some edge. —
Trying something new has undergone a insider stories, cutting Nick Ross Photos by Nick Ross
Have Your Say

Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or
via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to
hearing from you.
Inbox
The Celtic Festival
You provided a performers or times. sparse. be hard pressed to for five hours and
blurb on the festival I will do my best to One group was prove it. Someone enduring mostly
(p34, May 2015) that describe what I saw. composed mainly said that was Celtic disappointment.
Do you have piqued my interest. The first group of Vietnamese music from Brittany I cannot say that
So I attended on played nothing but performers. They in France. Though one group was
any comments Saturday, May 16. southern French were good and well done, those bad or even one
We arrived at 3pm, jazz. They played songs such as the instrumentals did performer. But this
that you would around the time the well but it was not Water is Wide stirred little to move the was merely a very
like to air? If first group began to Celtic music. A ones soul as Celtic crowd. good music festival
play, and stayed for group or two later music often does. More of the same of a variety of
so, reach out five hours. played similar music The Vietnamese began to become music, not a Celtic
Music festival but threw in Molly instruments added quite tedious. We Music Festival. If
and touch us it was, but Celtic Malone, Whiskey in an interesting were at a Celtic there is a real Celtic
at editor@ Music Festival it the Jar, What Shall We touch to their Music Festival, and Music Festival,
was not. Since this Do with the Drunken performance. there was precious count me in, for I
wordvietnam. was pretty poorly Sailor? and Dirty Old Another group of little Celtic music. am huge fan and
com — we’re at planned there were Town. The following two pipers played We finally gave up want to get a front
no programmes outfits played well, Celtic music, I at 8pm and went row seat. — Joe
your fingertips. listing the but Celtic music was guess, but I would home after standing Skelton
Omission Can Gio by Speedboat Word T-Shirt Competition

Competition
Last month we published an article To follow are the winners of our
on the opening of Harmony at 90 Thanks to everyone who entered this May T-shirt competition run in
Nguyen Hue, Q1. Unfortunately, competition organised in conjunction conjunction with Score Tech. Your
we forgot to add the address to the with Les Rives in our May issue. T-shirts are on their way.
end of the article. Apologies for the Here are the winners: Seb Szymeczko; Tom Collin; Manh Tran;
omission. Michael Stanbrook Ran Tg; Tony; Han Lam; Dan Ruelle;
Phung Thi Thu Thuy Phuong Phuong; Le Thao Vi; Matt Bender
We’re running another
competition in this issue, so if you
missed out, there’s still another
chance to win. Same idea but
different, limited-edition design.

So You Love
Talk
Lead Vietnamese Food? Sticks and stones may break our bones…
I
n April, when we were for those international restaurants made it to the press, Word Vietnam. It
discussing the content of our mentioned above, it seemed fine serves no other purpose than being
cover story, it became clear that but you shouldn’t have said about an online troll that’s disguised as
one member of our editorial Vietnamese food in a rude way like being sapient, from a writer whose
team wasn’t too enthusiastic about that. profile highlights the fact that he’s
Vietnamese food. And yet our — If the only form of Vietnamese just a contrarian and takes the loyal
cover story, These are a Few of our cuisine you have tasted is chao ga, opposition for no other reason than
Favourite Things, was all about our bo kho, com tam and fish sauce, I to do it. I guess my main gripe with
favourite Vietnamese dishes. So, suggest you refrain from insulting an it, really, is: what was the point?
we said to the poor haunted soul, entire culture based on your limited Respect the culture and culinary
write about it. Why not? Tell us knowledge and experience. contributions from the country you
why. — Wow! So much for freedom of choose to make your home and meal
What followed was the piece, speech. Say what you think, back ticket.
Vietnamese Food Isn’t That Great it up with evidence, and how do — This was pretty difficult to read,
(page 88, May 2015). It was run as people respond? They throw insults. so trite, repetitive, predictable. I
a counterpoint to all our gushing This is food. Not religion or politics. know this kind of journalism —
ravings about the food in this It’s food. unexpected from Word. I know
country. In context, it made sense. It — You try too hard to have an edgy people there I respect a lot. This is
provided balance. opinion over something you barely melon. Or lime? What do you call
Yet when it appeared online, understand. A dumb article. that fruit?
without all the food porn preceding — Its no big deal guys, it’s one
it, the article was misinterpreted as… From Private Posters’ person’s opinion which is not at
well, a lot of things. Timelines all representative... Seriously, more
In the first sentence, “your — Wondering if the author even delicious food for us all.
correspondent” asked you, the knows what he’s talking about or — I think this was a great article.
reader, to “lower your pitchforks”. this is just a ridiculous trick to get Funny, while not being derogatory.
The opposite happened. Pitchforks attention for the clumsy ads at the Also, the person managing the
were raised, Salem-like witch stakes end of his article. If that’s the case, Facebook account is replying
were driven into the ground, and he got ours. to comments with lighthearted
the nooses came out. Both the article — Such a fool writing this article. wit. This makes them a great
and the writer got a public hanging. Worth reading to see how narrow- administrator!
There were even a few death threats. minded people are — The title is a bit clickbait-y but
Here’s what you said*. — There’s a guy who comments the author does have a bit of a
saying “so much for freedom of point... Although he fumbles it
From wordvietnam.com speech. Express your opinion and by mistaking Saigonese food for
— Your correspondent needs to quit get slammed. It’s just food.” No. This Vietnamese food in general… Hope
with the 1940’s mode of self-address guy is insulting the very heart of a the Word can scrape together some
and start talking in the first person. culture. Multiple cultures. change and send the author around
— The narrative style is as douchy as Vietnam on a little culinary trip.
the content. Bravo. From Expats in
— Let just say your article is so Ho Chi Minh City * The identity of the commenters
uncreditable. After reading this, — I’m having trouble wrapping has been omitted to protect their
I realized you were advertising my head around how this article anonymity.

Big5
The
1 Swedish band Twiggy Frostbite
Swedish Music Showcase Royal Ascot Garden Party book that flight while it’s still cheap.
We certainly have.
1 Thursday Jun. 11
CAMA ATK, Hanoi 3 Friday Jun. 19
British Consulate Gardens, To read our many articles on the
ASEAN Pride Festival, turn to pages 18,
HCMC
With so many of this country’s 43 and 50
Music embassies bringing in bands from
overseas, Sweden is determined not
In the UK, there are certain sporting
events that the whole country seems to From Singapore with Laughter
festivals, to be outdone. It’s the Scandinavian get up about — and we’re not talking Thursday Jun. 18 and Friday Jun. 19
nation’s national day on Jun. 6 and last referendums and the once non-stop
contemporary 5
The Boat House, HCMC;
year the home of the Volvo celebrated harassment of UKIP leader, Nigel House of Son Tinh, Hanoi
45 years of diplomatic relations with Farage. One of them is Royal Ascot.
dance, horse Vietnam, a feat that outfeats all of Fortunately, being the savvy Take Singapore’s top stand-up comic,
racing and Europe’s other countries. So, what
better way to strut your stuff and
souls that they are, and knowing a
Britishman’s love for aristocratic high
the award-winning Jinx Yeo, and put
him on the same stage as Singapore
comedy. show that ABBA really is a thing of
the past by bringing in three Swedish
fashion and outrageous hats, the
BBGV has decided to bring that most
comedy club owner and well-known
Dutch gagster, Kristel Zweers, and
Here are bands for a night of unadulterated live famous of horse racing institutions to you’ve got what could be a hell of an
music at CAMA ATK? Ho Chi Minh City — Royal Ascot. interesting show.
our picks for It’s gonna be a squeeze in there — You, too, can celebrate the antics But wait, you say, isn’t the stand-
the venue can fit in about 120 — but of a British race day by heading to up comedy that we know all done
the coming we reckon the gig on Jun. 11 is gonna the British Consulate on Jun. 19. It’s a in English? Well, it is. But you see,
month be a little bit special.
To find our more, turn to page 43
live feed on the big screen, a slap up
meal with a freeflow of booze — Stella
Singapore — like its fellow almost-a-
state Hong Kong — has got a thriving
Artois and Diageo are sponsoring this comedy scene. And this is what
Non one — and a whole lot more, too. You the promoters of this mini tour are
may even get to wear a fancy hat. bringing to Vietnam.
2 Saturday Jun. 13
IDECAF, HCMC For more info, turn to the article on
page 34
Expect laughter, laughter and even
more laughter. This one’s gonna be a
If you know what non means in whole lot of bellyaching fun.
Vietnamese, then you probably know ASEAN Pride Music Festival To find out more, click on facebook.com/
that a non la is a conical hat, the theme 2.0 saigoninternationalcomedy or facebook.
for a new Vietnamese stage show.
This will not be the first time that
4 Saturday Jun. 20
The American Club, Hanoi
com/sontinhloungebar
traditional and contemporary have

been brought together in Vietnam, but This is the BIG one for June. 4,000
we reckon the contemporary dance people, sweltering heat, The American
performance Non, which will premiere Club, the U.S. Embassy, CAMA,
at IDECAF on Jun. 13, could just be LGBT issues and a music festival that
one of those shows you must be at. screams the words ‘contemporary’
A Cirque du Soleil in the making, so and ‘modern Vietnam’. Oh, and did
to speak. The work of choreographer, we forget to mention that it’s 20 years
Vu Ngoc Khai and musician, Ngo since the trade embargo was lifted
Hong Quang, to find out more about with Vietnam?
this mash of Vietnamese folklore, No matter where you live in
traditional music and contemporary Vietnam, you should scribble a solid
dance, turn to page 32. note in your diary for this one and

Briefings
Hanoi
A Match Made
in Heaven?
Thanks to bilateral trade, New Zealand and Vietnam are getting closer
“N
ew Zealand’s match made in heaven.” us because we have a strong focus
expansive mountain Lim, who won MasterChef New on food safety and quality. We
ranges and long Zealand and starred in a show on know Vietnamese consumers are
coastlines make it the Asian Food Channel, spoke concerned about products that can
a haven for fresh produce,” says enthusiastically about her country’s be fake.”
Nadia Lim, a guest chef at the NZ grass-fed beef and cleanly raised According to Martin, food and
Food Connection event in Hanoi seafood. She demonstrated how beverage makes up 60 percent
last month. to cook greenshell mussel soup, of New Zealand’s exports to this
Hosted by New Zealand Trade comparing the broth to bun bo Hue. country. Going the other way, his
and Enterprise (NZTE), the event country imports rice, coffee, prawns
at the Sofitel Metropole offered a Lamb, Dragonfruit and Wine and pepper from Vietnam.
winding buffet of wine, fruit, beef, NZTE promotes trade in markets However, New Zealanders
mussels and other foods the island across Asia. It brought together have become increasingly fond
nation aims to encourage Vietnamese nine companies from New Zealand, of Vietnamese fruit — especially
companies to distribute. including Alliance Group, the dragonfruit and mangoes, says
“When I visited for the first country’s biggest lamb processor, the New Zealand ambassador to
time last year, Vietnam became New Zealand Natural ice cream and Vietnam, Heike Manning.
my favourite country to travel the wine producer Villa Maria. He adds: “By meeting New
to,” says Lim. “I just absolutely “Vietnam is our fastest growing Zealand standards (for imports),
love Vietnamese food. If you can market in Southeast Asia,” says Tony [Vietnam is] showing it can meet
pair New Zealand produce with Martin, NZTE’s consul general for some of the highest standards in the
Vietnamese ingredients… you have a Vietnam. “Vietnam imports from world.” — Annalise Frank

Briefings
International

This is Thingyan
In Myanmar the new year is all about water
I
t’s around 6am in the middle of comfort, you crouch around with Not for Everyone
April. I’m in the small town of a group of soaked locals. Their After some hours, you feel relief
Myeik on the coast of Myanmar. enthusiasm grows even higher — a when instead of hoses and ice water,
Not much has changed since white face is still a rare, giggle- you see kids with plastic containers.
George Orwell’s times. inducing sight here. Then your fear Especially the little ones — there’s
Citywide chanting comes on way kicks in as you see the real madness a good chance they’ll miss and you
too loud, echoing all through the ahead. get a bit of satisfaction when they
streets. But today, no wake up call is Makeshift stages set up along the do. Some taunt you with big, empty
needed. Everyone’s up early. Every road, one after another, as far as you buckets, just to watch you scramble
kid in town is already on the street, can see. for cover as they laugh. Everyone
in front of their house, wearing a Forget buckets! Those bucket around seems to have endless energy.
slightly evil and overexcited grin on kids were amateurs! Here, they’ve Well, you’ve had the thrill of your
their faces. They’ve been waiting for got industrial strength water hoses life but you’re exhausted and cold.
this day all year. shooting in every direction! Those You hop off, ready to call it a day.
In their hands is a weapon of damn things hurt! But you suck it And as you do, you face a young,
choice. The older ones tend to go up and as you open your eyes and reddish-robed monk, no older than
for buckets, the younger kids stick shake the water out of your ears, six or seven. And you are gripped by
to water guns or plastic bowls. among the wild bumper-to-bumper sadness.
Near each group there is a supply traffic, there’s a crowd dancing Monks don’t participate in the
magazine — a giant water cooler — around you, as if in a trance. water fun. He discreetly glances
filled not just with water but ice. A Bikes, cars, people on top of at his thoroughly-soaked peers
motorbike appears on the horizon, buses; anything on wheels. And swinging water left and right nearby
the first victim. The grins stretch hundreds, no thousands, on foot. and in his eyes there’s so much
wider, excitement grows higher. There are bicycles with creative longing, held-back excitement, envy.
Check your ammo, fix your grip on DIY sidecars carrying whole Before you know it, an older monk
the weapon. Get ready… Four days families. Drops of water fly through rushes the boy along and he’s gone.
of absolute madness is about to kick the air in slow motion. The roads You’re left on your own, in a brief
off. The countrywide water-war turn into rivers. moment of quiet contemplation…
starts with a merciless… Splash! “That’s such a waste of water!” you Apparently not brief enough.
This… is… Thingyan. think, as kids nearby recycle dirty Where the monk just stood, three
puddles to fill up their buckets. kids have taken his place. Splash!
Water Wars Then you get distracted with And again. Splash! And another.
Non-participation during Thingyan, the sweet smell of thanaka — the Splash!
the Burmese New Year and Water traditional sunscreen and cosmetic This is Thingyan. — Matt
Festival, is not an option. Neither is — that hangs in the air. It’s too Dworzanczyk
staying dry. Yet there’s not a single much for the senses. Someone Matt Dworzanczyk is a filmmaker,
grump in sight. The collective thrill hands you a beer but your ‘thanks’ writer and a long-time Hanoi expat,
is addictive. gets lost in the noise and you didn’t currently on a motorbike journey from
So you climb onto the open-back even catch his face. You pop it open Hanoi, loosely headed towards Nepal.
minivan, one of many. Around a and you drink it in one go. Seconds For more on Matt’s films and travels,
plastic tarp-covered speaker, which later you’re under water-cannon visit etheriumsky.com. You can follow
blasts bad pop way too loud for attack again. his monthly trip diary in Word

Briefings The Man
National with the Pan
Conquering the world with pancakes
A
few months ago, Willem ideas as to where to set up a kitchen. tables.
Karel Hendrik Dieleman They were the first of his many
started an adventure. An Asian Odyssey diners.
Travelling around the world It started as a token of appreciation Since then he’s carried this
was not enough for him. So he to the people who hosted him challenge to many destinations. His
decided to take a frying pan as his through couchsurfing during his frying pan has become a means for
companion and cook pancakes for travels. A pancake in return for a Willem to introduce himself to local
those, as he says, in need of more place to sleep. life, not only as a spectator but also
attention. In Dubai, Willem’s host suggested as a participant, cooking pancakes in
After visiting Hanoi and he get a frying pan to do something exchange for some joy.
cooking for 120 kids suffering the different. That is how it all began. He His next stop was Pakistan. Here,
consequences of Agent Orange, started cooking pancakes for some Willem made pancakes at a market
Willem travelled the length of construction workers in the city. right next to one of the biggest
Vietnam to reach Saigon. At the The workers — mostly from India, slums in Karachi. Then he headed to
end of April he surprised orphans Pakistan and Bangladesh — are the Chapursan Valley and after a drive
and elderly people at a pagoda in modern-day slaves of Dubai; they along the Karaokaram Highway, the
Binh Tan where he cooked up 100 have little freedom, work in hard eighth most dangerous road in the
pancakes stuffed with mango. conditions, searingly hot weather world, he arrived in Sost, the last
Willem doesn’t have a type. He and at very low rates of pay. So town before the border with China.
doesn’t seek to purely help the one day, Willem took his frying Here he celebrated his birthday
disadvantaged. He heads to his pan to their site and began to cook and cooked pancakes for the Wakhi
destination and asks around for pancakes, with oil barrels serving as people. This, he says, was one of his

Photos provided by Willem Dieleman
most touching experiences. Focused ever had. of art don’t get the appreciation he
on day-to-day survival, the Wakhi After Pakistan Willem went to India hopes for; after cooking up a large
don’t do birthdays. Here is what he and reached the Golden Temple in batch of pancakes some people have
writes in his blog: Amritsar which would be the home of asked for a fried egg instead.
The milk I used came straight from one his next cooking show. Helped by the It also takes some time to carry
of their cows. The flour came from their Sikh people, he made vegan pancakes out his project. The preparation takes
grain and the water came straight from without egg. In China he cooked two to three days. He has to ask for
the glacier. The only thing that wasn’t up pancakes in commemoration of permission and search out a place to
homemade was a topping. There was a International Women’s Day. From cook and people who can help him
small shop that only sold clothes, gasoline, there he moved onto Vietnam. His find all the ingredients. Yet, despite
tea and chocolate sweets. I decided to crush final stop was at the Tu Hanh Pagoda being difficult and often tiring, the
the chocolate sweets and melted them. in Binh Tan. After spending a few journey has been rewarding. Where so
Farishta invited all his friends, we listened hours serving up something sweet, he many travellers just pass on through
to music and I was taught how to dance moved onto Cambodia. and make little if any connection with
like a Wacky Wakhi. I also invited some local people, Willem has had much
men from the village. They didn’t like the The World is Round (Like a closer contact with the people he’s
pancakes that much and sat grumpy in the Pancake) cooked for.
corner, while the kids were dancing. It was Making pancakes around the world It’s something neither he nor his
a remarkable birthday. Afterwards one of isn’t always easy. Willem has found diners will ever forget. — Natalia
the grumpy older men told me: this was a that doors are not always open for Martinez
good birthday party, no?!’ It was. It was him. Sometimes his plans don’t work To follow Willem’s adventure click on
the best and only birthday party they’ve and at other times his culinary works pancakeadventures.com

Briefings ASEAN Pride 2.0
Hanoi Hanoi’s much loved annual music festival returns to the American Club
I
f the pouring summertime underground artists, while creating for an LGBT person in Vietnam:
sweat don’t matter, and all a safe space to celebrate sexual and overcoming that first high hurdle of
you care for is some hedonistic gender diversity. It’s already shaping coming out to the family.
rantings to live music, then up to be one of the year’s musical “For years, the US Mission to
the ASEAN Pride Music Festival highlights.” Vietnam has been forward-leaning
on Jun. 20 might just be up your The festival will also help on advancing LGBT rights and
Hanoi-style alley. celebrate the 20th anniversary of the wants this festival to highlight that
While last year’s shindig attracted normalisation of relations between no matter who you are or who you
a massive 4,000 revelers, all with the the United States and Vietnam. As love, everyone should be treated
aim of raising awareness of LGBT Secretary John Kerry has stated, “No equally and with respect.”
issues, this year’s offering will be two countries have worked harder, U.S. Ambassador to Vietnam,
just as good, if not better. With done more, and done better to try Ted Osius, who will also address
‘celebrating family’ rising to the top to bring themselves together and… festival-goers on Jun. 20, says the
of the agenda, 13 of the best live change the future.” festival is an important part of
musical acts from around Southeast the U.S. government’s efforts to
Asia will take the stage at the Diversity and Acceptance advocate equality for LGBT people
American Club (19-21 Hai Ba Trung, It’s only been three years since overseas.
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi), including the Vietnam’s first gay pride parade, “I’ve been to a lot of schools
headline act, US-Vietnamese queen Viet Pride, saw hundreds of now and what’s really interesting
of indie-rock, Thao Nguyen & the rainbow-clad cyclists pedal their is that there are kids — even at the
Get Down Stay Down. way through the capital. Events high school level — who are brave
Music fans can also rock out like ASEAN Pride aim to foster enough to stand up in front of 600
to Vietnam’s own transgender growing community acceptance of to 800 people and ask what are the
pop sensation Huong Giang Idol, diversity. obstacles if you’re gay,” he says.
Malaysia’s O.J. Law, Thai girl rockers Michael Turner, cultural affairs “My message to them and all of
Yellow Fang, Saigon’s COCC, To officer at the U.S. Embassy in their straight classmates is be who
Lam and his high-heel dance troupe, Hanoi, says the festival aims to you are — if you want to be happy,
DJ Lotus Disco and more. And those capture the energy and dynamism there’s no other way.”
looking for alternate action can enjoy of the local LGBT community in For more information about
a dedicated art space, a local makers Vietnam and in the ASEAN region the ASEAN Pride Music Festival
market and tasty food and drink in order to help raise awareness of 2.0, head to the ASEAN Music
outlets to keep you going late into the need for LGBT equality. Festival Facebook page or click on
the evening. “Last year the theme was camavietnam.org. Tickets are available
Organised jointly by the United ‘celebrating diversity’,” he online at ticketbox.vn or at CAMA
States Embassy in Hanoi and says. “This year [the local LGBT ATK, House of Son Tinh and Com Ga
CAMA Vietnam, says CAMA’s community] came up with the Café. The festival kicks off at 1pm and
Nick Greenfield, “ASEAN Pride theme ‘celebrating family’ because runs until 11pm. To read an interview
aims to showcase the quality and that is what they identified was with the U.S. Ambassador, Ted Osius,
diversity of the region’s emerging one of the biggest challenges turn to page 50

Photos by Aidan Dockery

Briefings Sunny Farm
HCMC On the outskirts of Ho Chi Minh City, an organic farm is teaching
Saigon’s schoolchildren the value of knowing what goes into your body
N
guyen “Sam” Vu Minh Quan’s education. Her involvement with the farm — The farming community in Vietnam
background is in tourism, but a brings our educational foundation to a is mostly made up of small households
few years ago he saw how even reliable level — the programmes are designed throughout the country. Enforcing an official
local children don’t understand and advised by her, to really provide an easy- organic certification is not a very economical
the backbone of Vietnam: its agricultural to-absorb learning experience. move to compete in the local low-price
heritage. Together with his mother — the market. The market overseas is very attractive
former principal of an elementary school, Word: Can you tell us about the range of tour — however, the lack of education and
and designer of educational curriculums — groups you cater to, and the ways in which understanding about trading terms renders a
he founded Sunny Farm, a teaching facility you try to engage them? change in the farming economy impossible.
that hosts groups of school-age children on Sam: We currently cater to children from But there are some collaborative farm goals
its 1.5 hectares of fertile, organic soil. In the the age of four to young adults of 18 and that are possible to achieve.
programme’s young history, it’s already seen sometimes older. — The local market is not ready for it,
thousands of impressionable children come despite the frequent news about highly
through and get their hands dirty, in service Word: What lasting impressions are you contaminated chemical produce... customers
of what Sam hopes will be a cleaner future. hoping they’ll take back with them? are still reluctant to choose clean produce.
Word took a trip to the Ho Chi Minh City Sam: The lasting impressions we’re hoping The reason for this might be because it is
outskirts to see progress in action, and ask they’ll take back are of understanding and hard to link the chemical produce to failing
Sam a few questions about his life’s work. caring for the environment. I want them health. And the numbers of people who are
to understand that the environment is really aware of environmental issues and pay
Word: What gave you the idea to start up this their surroundings, and it’s important to attention to produce origin are still scarce.
kind of educational venture in Ho Chi Minh pay attention to it and put your heart into — These issues aren’t threats to our
City? caring about it. educational aims; they are the reasons
Sam: The idea of owning a farm and Instead of emphasising environmental why Sunny Farm was founded. We link
developing it to be sustainable and self- idealism, the purpose of Sunny Farm is to our [organic mission] to environmental
sufficient is a rather strange idea in Vietnam. give our participants a different perspective friendliness rather than health issues. While
My family and I decided to open this farm to on farming. Many in Vietnam associate having participants experience activities
fill that hole, to share this lifestyle and inspire farming with dirty, hardworking menial on the farm, they can see how our crops
the youth to help their environment develop labour, not a rewarding activity in a deeper are grown from a little seed to a ready-
sustainably. sense. We hope our participants will see the to-consume product. This helps them to
bright future and rewards of natural farming, understand the importance of enjoying these
Word: What is your agricultural background? using both sustainability and self-sufficiency natural products in their finest form (without
How about the other people involved? as a compass. chemicals or pesticides).
Sam: I don’t have an extensive agricultural Our criteria for success are for 10 percent This is also the way we educate our
background — I just started learning about of participants to understand these basic participants about our farm’s produce.
this subject when I first bought the land. I environmental issues, and to support action. Even though our scale is small, the impact
started from scratch and grew with it. My And hopefully 10 percent of that number will spread.
background is in business and tourism will be willing to speak their mind and lead
hospitality. I graduated from RMIT and the charge. Word: In the future, is ‘organic’ going to have
ERC and have worked for some companies as much currency here as it does in other
before this. Word: I’ve noticed a lot of concern about places in the world?
The other person who has greatly agricultural practices in Vietnam, but Sam: Sooner or later Vietnam will develop
influenced our operation is my mom. She’s preferred “clean” practices aren’t associated and its community will demand higher
an ex-principal of a renowned state-owned with the word “organic” as clearly as they quality, cleaner products. And the ‘organic’
elementary school in Ho Chi Minh City. are in more developed countries. How does label will have a major impact on consumers’
She’s also an educational consultant, with this affect your educational aims? selection criteria. — Ed Weinberg
many years of establishing and preparing Sam: There several key points I would like to For more information on Sunny Farm, go to
curriculums and programmes for youth make here: sunnyfarmvn.com

Photos by Mads Monsen

Briefings B
efore I moved to Vietnam, I used to enjoy
running outdoors. Yet because of the bad
air quality, I no longer indulge as much as
I used to. Driving my motorbike around
the city, I cringe at the thought of all of the toxins I
inhale every time I leave the house. Yet I still cannot
National bring myself to sport a facemask.

The problem is that as a fashion accessory,
facemasks just don’t make the grade. And the selection
here is pitiful.
Do I want to look like…
1) I was just released from the hospital and am on
the mend from a deadly disease?
2) A ninja?
3) Or like the female version of Darth Vader?
Protect your health or keep a good fashion sense?
I know it sounds terrible, but I’d rather deal with the
exhaust fumes.
Vog What?
So when I heard about a new facemask company that
was producing organic, re-usable facemasks that make
a fashion statement, I was interested.
“I came across Vogmask in Singapore and was
intrigued,” says Cindy Tu, the Vietnam distributor.
“The filtering textile is actually sewn into the mask, has
a one-way exhale valve and can filter 99.978 percent of
all airborne contaminants. The design sensibility sets
the product apart.”
Emerging out of San Francisco, Vogmask has now
made its way across Asia. It didn’t reach Vietnam until
Tu contacted the company’s co-founder and became
the local distributor. Her website, vogmask.vn, was
launched in early May.
So what sets Vogmask apart from its competitors
sold on the side of the road?
You Are
Says Tu: “Vogmask is the first stylish, high efficiency,
well-fitting, comfortable and reusable filtering
facemask for general public use in the world.”
A big claim.
But she has a point. The product’s N99 filtering,
What You
or the middle layer of the mask, features nano-fiber
textiles that filter more than 99 percent of particles
larger than 0.3 microns. Meaning, not only is the
mask’s life expectancy longer, but it does a far better
Wear
job protecting you from those exhaust fumes behind
that honking bus than a mask bought from a street
vendor.
Wearable Art
Facemasks have become The facemask as a fashion statement is already gracing
the runways. Beijing-based designer and body painter,
a work of art Nina Griffee, has incorporated the Vogmask facemask
design into her Spring/Summer collection for Hong
Kong’s Fashion Week in early July.
But more important is the selection of colours and
patterns available — at present there are 35 options for
the fashion-conscious facemask wearer. From tie-dye to
plaid to quirky mermaids and a variety of solid colours
and additives, prices range from VND86,000 for the
head strap accessories to VND860,000 for the vegan
leather mask.
Buying a fashionable facemask is not going to solve
Vietnam’s growing issues with decreasing air quality.
And unless you wear it at all times, it’s not going to
help with indoor air pollution, which is worse than
pollution outdoors. But it is certainly going to give
you some personal — and stylish — protection from
all those unwelcome pollutants out there. — Rachel
Cabakoff
For more information visit vogmask.vn or facebook.com/
vogmask.vn

Briefings
HCMC Animal Rescue &
Care Has Been Rescued!
After losing the Cat House, ARC found a home
A
RC’s cat sanctuary was who demand their nannies bring As ARC says, “Fostering is ideal
on a quiet street on Thao them each day. We’ve had four cats for those who don’t want the long-
Dien until last month — adopted this weekend alone, which term commitment of owning a pet.
when the monthly bills is amazing, so having them there is ARC pays for all medical bills and
finally got to be too much. It was a definitely working.” vaccinations, and the foster family just
scary moment for one of Vietnam’s gets to take care of a kitten or dog until
leading lights in animal welfare. The Extended Family we find them a permanent home. We
What’s an animal rescue centre And just when you thought all was also take the pets back if they need to
without a centre? safe for Saigon’s cats and dogs, go away on business or holiday.”
That’s when Dr. Nguyen Van another crisis looms. That crisis is Sounds like a pretty sweet deal
Nghia stepped in. One of Vietnam’s seasonal — the annual exodus of to us.
most skilled vets — with a degree foster families that comes with the
from University of Bristol’s School summer lull. But this summer, it’s What You Can Do
of Clinical Veterinary Medicine, most of ARC’s hardcore supporters It’s a common problem for charities
membership in the British Small who are moving on, and leaving the — half of their time is spent just
Animal Veterinary Medicine many animals they’ve helped for raising enough money to continue
Association and a post lecturing at the next wave of kind souls to come their work. That’s why we’re
Nong Lam University — Dr. Nghia along. encouraging a monthly donation
has long championed ARC’s work. Those kind souls? You could be to ARC. It’s super easy, and it will
And this time, he saved the day. one. We see your heart swelling; help ease the monthly ordeal of
At his Saigon Pet Clinic you’ll do. And it’s easy. fundraising.
headquarters, Dr. Nghia donated So, kittens are the best, right? Well, Just type in gofundme.com/arcpets,
half of his front courtyard to kittens are the primary beneficiaries wipe away those sympathetic tears
house an ARC donation centre/ of foster care, as they’re too young and click on the donate tab. There’s
secondhand shop, and a new, super- to deal with the rambunctious older a checkbox for giving the amount
accessible cat house. Now animal types in the cat house. That dream you’ve inputted monthly, so go
lovers can come by unannounced, you had about just adopting kitten ahead and click that if you’re willing
and play with the fishing rod toys after kitten, trading them in when and able. Just consider it a small tax
dangling from grates in the doorway. they got too old? It turns out it’s on all your Pusheen the cat sticker
As volunteer Emma Paterson says, actually possible — and what’s usage. You know Top Hat Pusheen
“We have two regular four-year-olds more, it’s a kind thing to do. would approve.

Photos by Francis Xavier
Donate!
Three out of four cute ARC
cats agree, you should
probably pledge a monthly
donation in the VND200,000
range to keep them in catnip
and plush toys. The fourth cat
just wants you to donate all of
your houseplants.
Go to gofundme.com/arcpets
and put your money where
the cat’s mouths are!
Visit!
These cats need a little love,
even if you’re not going to
take them home. Stop in
across the way for some
clever ARC merch in their
secondhand shop.
Saigon Pet Clinic is at 33

Duong 41, Thao Dien, Q2,
HCMC. The Clinic is closed
for surgery between 11.30am
and 1.30pm, but otherwise
drop in when you like
Cat of the Month:

Kazuze
B
eauty has its price, and with
Kazuze that price is a little
cattitude. Her name means
‘Harmony’ in Japanese, but that’s
not exactly what she brings to the
cat house. Some words that come to
mind: feisty, imperial, persnickety.
She’s got beautiful long fur, and
we got the sense in our time with
her that a certain patient cat-lover
could bring out the best in her. After
assuming a defensive pose when we
entered, she gradually warmed to
our presence, bumping up against
our legs as she passed. But dogs,
don’t expect the same treatment.
She’s active, spayed, fully
vaccinated and waiting for you to
take her home today. Contact arcpets@
gmail.com to make your date with
kitty destiny.

Briefings
HCMC
Photo by Owen Salisbury

A
t this fine media establishment, for the occasional trip to FV Hospital, or to
we have long bemoaned the Boomarang and maybe a cinema or two,
lack of mid-range shopping unless you live there, why else would one
malls in Vietnam. The bottom want to visit the place?
end is catered for as is the top, but little in For Crescent Mall’s biannual shoe sales?
between. Fortunately, that long 20-minute
So when we heard about the newly journey out to Vivo was worth every
inaugurated Vivo Mall in Saigon’s District second. Walk into the air-conditioned
Vivo Mall
7, we leapt for joy. This, we were told, centre and you are greeted by space, lots
is mid-range. And this, we were led to of space. There are people, too. Always a
believe, is a place where shoppers actually good sign. And as I traverse the ground
spend their hard earned wads of dong, and floor with its as-of-yet-unopened quorum
not just in the restaurants and food court. of branded shops I realise that this is what
“Wow!“ we said. Is this country coming dreams are made of. Aspirational, wallet-
Shopping goes international of age? Has retail — mass shopping centre emptying dreams.
retail in the form that we know it the You see, Vivo Mall is not quite
world over — finally arrived? What joy! complete. The Co.opmart there doesn’t
What ecstasy! Now we no longer have to even sell baked beans! But the place
fly to big brother Bangkok or supersonic has already got enough to draw in the
Singapore to get our adrenalin rushes. Now punters. A sky park, the aforementioned
we can apply for credit cards and do it all supermarket, a huge kids play area,
here. a games centre, a bowling alley, Wall
Street English, California Fitness, Koh
Not So Fast… Thai, Sumo BBQ, Starbucks, a Harley
So far this was all just hearsay, and the showroom and a Nino Maxx. Plus there’s
problem with hearsay is that it comes from a lot more on its way, including Hamley’s
heretics, and well, heretics have nothing to Toy Store and Miss Selfridges. A big,
do whatsoever with this article. So, being ground-floor McDonald’s takes the place
the curious soul that I am, I decided to pay of workaday brands like Lotteria or KFC.
a long overdue visit. When it’s done and dusted, this place
Yet, it was tough. For some of us, the has possibilities. Serious possibilities. If
Phu My Hung area of Saigon is well and you want a shopping mecca in Vietnam,
truly the hinterland, the outskirts less this might just be it.
travelled, a suburban part of the city that International-style shopping in Vietnam?
we have just not explored. After all, except You may have just arrived. — Nick Ross

Sports From the sidelines, Harry Hodge sizes up Vietnam’s month in sports
Digest
The Saigon Geckos

For more than 20
I
n a city that changes as tournaments throughout Asia for all types of sportsmen and
quickly as Saigon, who including the Angkor 10s, Super sports lovers,” says club captain
years, the Saigon knew that one of the few 4 Cambodian League, Indochine Simon Robson. “We have a
constants over the last two Cup and Manila 10s. large number of supporters who
Geckos have decades in this city would be… its The membership ranges travel with the teams to coach,
rugby club? from New Zealanders, South manage and support the team.”
ensured rugby is The Saigon Geckos Rugby Africans, Aussies, French, Some of the annual stops for
Club was formed in 1992 by
part of the sporting a group of expats keen to
English, Irish, Welsh, Scottish
and Italian to Peruvian,
the Geckos include the SEA
Cup, with competition against
landscape in Ho welcome visiting teams and
tour the region participating
Argentinian, Japanese,
American and Russian. There
the Manila Nomads, Bangkok
Bangers, Jakarta Komodos and
Chi Minh City. in regular tournaments. As are also a number of Vietnamese Kuala Lumpur squads, as well
the only rugby club in Saigon, members, most of whom play as frequent tours to Cambodia.
Harry Hodge learns the Geckos welcome men touch rugby, with a few contact The club’s touch rugby section
and women of all ages and players here and there. holds two Jon Elwood Touch
more nationalities. Over the years “The Saigon Rugby Football Tournaments per year in April
they have been involved in Club is a very welcoming club and November, usually with 10

Foreign Athletes Rule head coach, Norimatsu
Ironman in Danang Takashi, Vietnam missed
South Africa’s James Cunnama their chances. Though players
became the champion at the made every effort, they were
VNG Ironman 70.3 triathlon still lacking in competitive
in Danang last month, the first experience, especially the
Ironman to be held in Vietnam. young footballers. The coach
Cunnama finished the also sent apologetic words to
challenges after three hours Vietnamese fans because the
and 51 minutes, followed by team could not reach its target
Australia’s Timothy Reed. of winning the title.
Terenzo Bozzone of New
Zealand, the 2008 Ironman Table Tennis Team in
70.3 World Champion, finished Turmoil
third. Members of the Vietnamese
In the women’s category, national table tennis team
Switzerland’s Caroline Steffen had to stage ‘an internal
claimed the top title, followed competition’ last month
by two Australians, Liz before joining the 2015
Blatchford and Dimity-Lee Southeast Asian (SEA)
Duke. Games in Singapore due to a
Under the scorching summer disagreement over the selection
sun, athletes had to compete of players, writes Tuoi Tre.
on a fast and scenic course Arguments broke out after
that began with a 1.9km ocean Dao Duy Hoang complained
swim, before a two-loop 90km about being eliminated from
bike course that took them taking part in the regional
along Danang’s coastline. multi-sport tournament,
The final 21km out-and-back forcing the General
run course passed many of Department of Sports to settle
Danang’s famous beach resorts the rift.
before finishing at the foot of Sports managers came
the Marble Mountains. to the conclusion that the
The race attracted more than best solution was to hold an
1,000 athletes from 54 countries internal competition to decide
and territories, including 63 on the five best female players
from the host nation. and five best male players to go
to Singapore.
Vietnam Takes Fourth in In the end, Hoang was not
Women’s selected for the team.
Championships
Vietnam finished fourth at the Vietnamese Gymnast
ASEAN Football Federation Golden in Europe
Women’s Championship after Vietnamese gymnast, Phan Thi
losing to the under-20 team Ha Thanh, won a gold medal
teams playing in two pools. comers “from rugby keen of Australia 4-3 during the on balance beam at the 2015
“This April tournament saw players who love playing the fourth-place playoff match in Varna World Challenge Cup
the first all girl plus one bloke, game to totally novice players Ho Chi Minh City last month, in Bulgaria last month, writes
the Lady Haus, take on all the who enjoy being part of a team according to Vietnam News. Thanh Nien.
other mixed teams of eight and a fun social scene.” A double from striker This was the second world
blokes and two girls,” says Princess Ibini-Isei helped gold medal for the 24-year-
Robson. propel the Australian visitors to old athlete from Hai Phong
The touch rugby section The Geckos’ an exciting 4-3 win over hosts in less than two months. On
provides an opportunity for Habitat Vietnam. Nguyen Thi Minh March 27, she
female, younger players and Nguyet and Nguyen Thi Tuyet netted a gold
the whole family to be involved Additional raining is on Dung scored for Vietnam. But medal, also on tes
upda
on a Saturday afternoon. Each Thursday night, 7.30pm to Vietnam’s happiness did not balance beam, Sendout yourp or
Saturday touch is played at 9pm, alternating between last long. During injury time, at the 2015 ab g grou @
in ry
RMIT, and on Sunday at Thao District 2 and District 7. Princess scored another goal to Doha World sportnt to har .com
Dien Sport’s Centre — both For more information, help Australia win 4-3. Challenge eve vietnam
from 4pm to 6pm. visit pitchero.com/clubs/ According to Vietnam’s Cup. word
Robson encourages all saigonrugbyclub.

ToDo
2
list HCMC
The places to go,
the things to do.
All on this month Heaven, Earth, Human
Wednesday Jun. 3 to Tuesday Jun. 9
in Ho Chi Minh City Museum Gallery, Q1
City and beyond The City Museum Gallery will

host the exhibition, Heaven, Earth,
Two Years and Counting Human, by award-winning laquer
The Bike Shop, Q2 artist Truong Be from Jun. 3 until
Tuesday Jun. 2 to Sunday Jun. 14 Jun. 9.
With his work exhibited
It feels like these guys have been extensively in Vietnam, Europe and
around for much longer, but turns Asia, Truong Be is widely recognised
out it’s only been two years in the as one of the leading artists working
saddle for our favourite bike shop. in laquer. Vibrant and mixing the
(We couldn’t believe it either). So, traditional with the contemporary,
to celebrate the most awesome rides his work is found in several
and (probably) the best after sales museums including the Vietnam
service in town, the outlet is running National Museum of Fine Arts and
a sale between Jun. 2 and Jun. 14, the Singapore Art Museum as well
a chance for you to stock up on as numerous private collections
all your cycling necessities on the internationally. He is currently the
cheap. dean of the College of Fine Arts in
They’re also hosting a good old Hue.
fashioned sausage sizzle on Sunday Heaven, Earth, Human opens on Jun.
Jun. 7, where you can expect some 3 at the City Museum Gallery, 92 Le
great deals, games, giveaways, and Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC
of course food and drink. They’ve
told us the tunes will start around
4pm, but come anytime. Just tell
them we sent you to put some ‘extra Cooking Class with Sakal The Canadian Connection
gas’ in your tyres. Phoeung Thursday Jun. 4
The Bike Shop is at 250 Nguyen Van Every Wednesday Phatty’s, Q1
Huong, Q2, HCMC. For info click on Sofitel Plaza, Q1
facebook.com/thebikeshopVN Saigon International Comedy
We can vouch for Sakal’s cooking and the Canadian Chamber of
An Evening with Tennessee skills ourselves, having been Commerce (CanCham) have
Williams on the good end of his culinary teamed up to bring in two
Wednesday Jun. 3 to Saturday Jun. 6 finesse a few times lately. stars of the Canadian comedy
Cargo, Q4 Executive Chef at Sofitel Plaza, scene, Pat Burtscher and Garret
Sakal loves nothing more than to Jamieson, for a night of unbridled,
We’ve been following this one since share his wealth of knowledge,
the auditions and now it’s time for honed over a career working
3
our friends at Dragonfly Theatre with the best there is in the
Company to deliver. Along with business. Even if you’re a rank
Saigon Sound System, for four nights amateur, this is time well spent
from Jun. 3 they are presenting an for you, your clients or just a
evening of authentic Cajun cuisine group of friends.
mixed in with some provocative Advanced bookings are required
international theatre. Performing five and cost VND850,000++ per person
of Tennessee William’s one-act plays, including a three-course lunch, a
wrapped around a three-course certificate and recipe booklet. Classes
meal, including two free drinks, take place at 10am every Wednesday
this will be a night of entertainment at L’Olivier Restaurant, Level 2,
rarely found in Saigon. Don’t miss Sofitel Plaza. A minimum of 5
out, seats have been selling fast. participants is needed to proceed
Tickets for the shows are still available with the class. To book your place,
1 at ticketbox.vn and on the door subject call (08) 3824 1555
to availability

Heart Beat #12
3 & 4.
2.
1.
Five on Tennessee Williams’ one-act plays will be performed at Cargo from Jun. 3 to Jun 6
Lacquer work by renowned artist, Truong Be
Friday Jun. 5
Canadian comics Pat Burtsher and Garret Jamieson will be bringing the house down on Jun. 4
Observatory, Q4
Local techno outfit Heart Beat is

back with a major name in the
contemporary techno movement:
Etapp Kyle. Having received critical
acclaim from the very highest
levels — and a recent release on Ben
Klock’s Klockworks label — this will
be a night of music to remember.
Support comes from Oko, Chris
Wolter, Bax and VJ Erol.
Entrance is free before 11pm,
VND150,000 after (or VND100,000
with student ID). The Observatory is at
5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
Saigon Summer Ball

Saturday Jun. 6
InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Q1
To celebrate midsummer, Saigon

Children’s Charity (SCC) is holding
its 7th Annual Saigon Summer Ball
on Saturday Jun. 6.
Raising important funds for
SCC’s work with disadvantaged
children, since its inception in 2009,
the Summer Ball has raised almost
US$370,000 (VND7.8 billion) to
support disadvantaged children and
young adults in Vietnam.
Held once again at the Intercon,
the ball will feature a Moët et
Chandon champagne reception, a
four-course dinner accompanied
by fine wines, a live auction, silent
auction and raffle as well as live
music and tunes spun later on by a
DJ.
4 To book your tickets, email
saigonsummerball@saigonchildren.
com or call (08) 3930 3502. The cost is
VND3.8 million per person or VND38
million for a table of 10. The Intercon is
at Kumho Plaza, cnr. Le Duan and Hai
Ba Trung, Q1, HCMC
Celebration
Saturday Jun. 6 and Sunday Jun. 7
Youth Culture House, Q1
Dancenter’s last 200-person

spectacular was tremendous,
and this one will be no less so.
north-of-the-border comedy on Jun. Tickets for the show cost Featuring 200 Dancenter-schooled
4 at Phatty’s. VND199,000 in advance or performers tapping their way
If you’re expecting them US VND220,000 on the door. Advance through jazz, ballet, hip hop,
vs. Canada jokes, you might just table bookings (minimum of four contemporary, tap, flamenco, belly
get them. But more importantly people per table) cost VND300,000 dance and high heel routines, it’s
you’re gonna get a night of non- per person. Entrance comes with a free a celebration of the true meaning
stop laughter from two comics draft San Miguel. To book your tickets behind dancing — to go out there
claiming accolades as long their click on saigoninternationalcomedy. and shake what you’ve got.
forearms. Both have appeared on TV com/book-a-seat. And to keep updated Celebration takes place at the Youth
numerous times, both play the UK on the event click on facebook.com/ Culture House, 4 Pham Ngoc Thach,
and Australian comedy circuits, both saigoninternationalcomedy. Phatty’s Q1, HCMC — 7.30pm on Jun. 6, 3pm
hit big time on the Edinburgh fringe is at 46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, on Jun. 7. Tickets start at VND150,000.
and both are, well, damn funny. HCMC For more info, go to dancenter.vn

ToDo
list HCMC
Eduardo de la Calle Non
Friday Jun. 12 Saturday Jun. 13
The places to go, Observatory, Q4 IDECAF, Q1
the things to do. With over 20 years experience as Meshing together old and new is
All on this month a DJ and producer, Eduardo de la
Calle knows how to move a party.
increasingly popular in Vietnam,
and the contemporary dance
2
in Ho Chi Minh He also knows a lot about electronic

music, and has made a documentary
performance Non, which will
premiere at IDECAF on Jun. 13, does and folklore music creates not only
City and beyond on it called BEATZ. This night will just that. a visual display of Vietnamese
begin with a screening of the movie, Choreographed by Vu Ngoc culture but illustrates this country’s
followed by a brief discussion Khai, Non is a project that combines musicality.
before an all-night DJ set by the man contemporary dance with Says Khai, “Dance gives me
himself. Vietnamese traditional music and is breath, dance gives me frame, dance
10pm screening the work not only of Khai, but dan gives me sound, light, space, sense
11pm discussion with Edouardo De nhi musician, Ngo Hong Quang. and a real true feeling.”
La Calle Taking artistic inspiration from IDECAF is at 28 Le Thanh Ton, Q1
11.30pm party starts aspects of Vietnamese culture and the performance kicks off at 8pm.
Entrance is free before midnight, such as the conical hat, soil, Tickets can be purchased from IDECAF
VND150,000 after. The Observatory is water, chung cake, giay cake and by calling (08) 3823 9968. Entrance
at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC traditional musical instruments, the is VND200,000 (VND150,000 for
combination of contemporary dance students)
1
Non, a show where contemporary dance meets traditional Vietnamese music
Eduardo de la Calle to play Observatory on Jun. 12
2.
1.

Word is working together
with Score-Tech apparel
company to create 10 limited
edition sports t-shirts in a
range of sizes:
XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL
The t-shirts will only be

made up once and will never
be available again. So, if you
want to get your mitts on
something unique, here's
your chance.
All you need to do is answer

the following question, tell us
your size and we will put
your answer in a hat for a
prize draw:
te nce:
t e th is sen
le
Comp
IN THHEERE WAS
T ORD.
THE W
Please send your answers to
vy@wordvietnam.com by Monday Jun.
15 expressing what size t-shirt you
are and which of the two t-shirt
styles you would prefer.
For more info on Score Tech click on score-tech.net

ToDo
list HCMC Boogie G
Saturday Jun. 13
Observatory, Q4
The places to go,
The DJ and promotion force behind
the things to do. bringing some of the most bumping
names to Bangkok — including
All on this month Egyptian Lover and Onra — Boogie
in Ho Chi Minh G will be back at The Observatory
to set the dance floor alight with his
City and beyond rare cuts of boogie, funk and lot of
groove. Support from Hibiya Line.
Entrance is free before midnight,
VND100,000 after. The Observatory is
at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
Royal Ascot Garden Party

Friday Jun. 19
British Consulate Gardens, Q1
Australians in Vietnam celebrate

their big horse racing meet-ups
every year, but up until now, the 2
Brits have remained surprisingly
quiet.
That’s all set to change with the Coronation Cup. Whether there will Cinthie
Royal Ascot Garden Party on the be a sweepstake to go with the big Friday Jun. 19
evening of Jun. 19. Famed for its screen antics, however, is something Observatory, Q4
elaborately decorated hats, high you’ll just have to find out on the
fashion and its ability to draw in the day. There will also be a fashion Berlin-based DJ, producer and
makers and shakers of top-end British parade and a lucky draw to win label boss of Beste Modus and
society, Royal Ascot is the pinnacle of return flights to London. Unison Wax, Cinthie has been
the British horse racing calendar. To register please email Phung at in the game since the 1990s. A
Sponsored by Stella Artois phung.banh@bbgv.org or call (08) 3829 resident at the renowned IPSE and
and Diageo, the night will pitch 8430 Ext. 107. Entrance is VND1.2 Humboldthain clubs where she is
dinner and freeflow drinks with million (BBGV members) or VND1.6 known for her vinyl-only sets of
a live satellite link-up to the races million (non-members). The British truly exquisite, bass-heavy and
themselves, culminating with the Consulate is at 25 Le Duan, Q1, HCMC party-rocking house, this is full-on
Berlin power. Support comes from
Nic Ford.
1 Entrance is free before midnight,
VND150,000 after. The Observatory
Royal Ascot is as much a fashion parade as it is a series of horse races
is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,

HCMC
Obey Radio Saigon

Berlin-based DJ, Cinthie, will play Observatory on Jun. 19
Saturday Jun. 20
Observatory, Q4
In collaboration with ILL Beats

Saigon, globally-renowned Obey
Radio is bringing their outfit to
Saigon for the first time. Featuring
LA-based beatmaker Free the
The Laguna Phuket Marathon
Robots alongside curator Roam

Elsewhere, also on the decks will
be Vietnam-based bass masters Jin
and Jase.
Entrance is VND150,000
(VND100,000 for students with ID).
The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4, HCMC
2.
3.
1.

Mugic Soundsystem
Saturday Jun. 27
Observatory, Q4
The Mugic crew of Ulysses, the best underground parties

Kentaro, Mislav and Dang in the Lion City. Expect a big
are back from Singapore show and an accompanying
to celebrate their seventh delegation of party-goers.
anniversary at The Observatory. Entrance is free before
The last time they visited in midnight, VND150,000 after. The
February they showed us what Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat
makes their nights some of Thanh, Q4, HCMC
#savethedate Although details of the bash

have yet to be released, this will 3
Phatty’s Sixth Birthday be a big one, with free drinks
Wednesday Jul. 1 thrown in as part of the deal. Be
Phatty’s, Q1 there or be… well, something else.
Phatty’s is at 46-48 Ton That
For anyone who’s spent a Thiep, Q1, HCMC. To find out
substantial portion of their life what they’re doing on their
in this fine city, it is difficult birthday, do a search for Phattys
to believe that Phatty’s, that Sports Bar n Grill on Facebook
Australian institution serving
up live televised sport and beer Train to be a Yoga
by the bucketload, is already six Teacher
years old. But swears man at From Aug. 27
the helm, Steve Hardy, on Jul. 1 Venue TBA
they will be just that. Six. And to
celebrate their coming of a new We still reckon too much yoga is
age they will be throwing one never enough, so we’re happy to
humdinger of a party. promote Ho Chi Minh’s resident
Born out of the dregs of Café guru in the field, Suzanne Vian, Laguna Lang Co Marathon
Latin, a now defunct Australian who keeps on delivering some Laguna Lang Co Resort, Hue
sports bar on Dong Du, when of the best yoga training courses Oct. 24 to Oct. 25
Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear in the region. Starting at the end
got together to bring us Phatty’s, of August, set your diaries for Following the success of the version, as well as a variety
few watering holes existed in the either the weekend only course Laguna Phuket Marathon, of fun runs for families and
Ton That Thiep area of District 1. from the 29th or the weekday its sister resort, the inaugural children.
But described my many asunder version starting from the Laguna Lang Co Marathon will Early bird rates apply from
as ‘operators’, their professional 27th. What more can we say? take place in beautiful Lang now until Aug. 31, with entrance
approach to running a bar not Namaste yogis. Co, an area renowned for its costing from VND129,000 for
only attracted the customers, You can find complete pristine coastlines, lush green the 2km run up to VND645,000
but also attracted other such dates, information and fees at jungles and rugged mountain for the full marathon. For more
watering holes to the area. The suzannevian.com or just drop her a peaks. The marathon weekend information and registration, visit
list is endless. line at info@suzannevian.com comprises a full and a half lagunalangmarathon.com

Just
HCMC IN 2
New The Hyatt Reopens

After three months of renovation,
restaurants, the Hyatt is officially returning to
normal business on Jun. 14. What the
bars and new look property will be actually
shops, new like is anyone’s guess, but based on
their previous offerings, it should be
services and something to write home about — if,
that is, you are into your five-star
all the odd luxury.
Watch this space.
bits and bobs The Park Hyatt is at 2 Lam Son
Square, Q1, HCMC
that pop up
in our inbox Boat House Reinvents Itself Boat House is at 40 Lily Road, APSC chicken breasts, perfectly pre-
If you remember District 2’s Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC portioned Australian grass-fed ribeye,
Boat House going downhill, well wings, drumsticks, pre-skewered
now it seems, the trajectory is barbecue skewers, homemade
looking upwards. Thanks to new Calling All Carnivores sausages and much, much more.
management, the menu at this District 2, it seems, knows no And from a cursory purchase of two
riverside venue has been revamped bounds when it comes to the ribeye steaks that were cooked at
as has the service. expansion of its drinking and home, the quality is good, too.
Specialising in American-style dining options. However, one To help get bodies — live bodies
comfort food — think dishes like savvy entrepreneur, Thanh Charles, — through the door, in typical
nachos, beef sliders, quesadillas, has opted for an alternative route. Australian style weekends out front
wraps, creative salads and a big Instead of selling the finished sees Thanh and the team fire up the
selection of burgers — and you’ll product, he’s selling the meat, the BBQ. Sausage sizzles and burgers
get the idea. Oh, and as for their substance puts it all together. were on the menu last month, and
frozen margaritas. Perfect for the Opening on the site formerly says Thanh, expect the Saturday and
hot summer sun. occupied by Vino, Meatworks is Sunday meat fiestas to continue for
All meaning that after a period of providing, well, meat. And lots of the next few months.
inactivity, Boat House has once more it. But here thanks to the expertise Meatworks is at 1 Street 2, Thao
become a go-to destination for Thao of an Australian butcher, it’s about Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2565 or online
Dien residents who just don’t know preparation. Everything is made up at meatworksasia.com
how to leave Thao Dien. for you in advance: pre-marinated

The Hamlet Project Auditions
The Hamlet Project is an
international art project aimed at
dispelling myths about Vietnam to
young people in the US. From this
month, six American artists will
arrive for a ten-week residency with
the aim of producing a 90-minute
movement-based adaptation of 1. Dishes from the new menu at Boat House
William Shakespeare’s Hamlet. And 2. The team behind the newly opened Meatworks
the best part? You can be in it. The 3. Meatworks is the latest butcher to come to Saigon’s Thao Dien area
company is calling for actors and 4. A 3-D rendition of the lobby at Le Meridien
dancers with auditions taking place
on Jun. 12 to Jun. 14 at Dancenter.
Another chance to showcase Ho Chi 3 4
Minh City’s emerging local talent.
To book an appointment send a
resume and headshot by Jun. 10 to
vietnamproject2015@gmail.com.
Dancenter is at 53 Nguyen Dang Giai,
Q2, HCMC
Le Meridien
Saigon Opens its Doors
Located just where Ton Duc Thang
bends away from the river on the
thoroughfare’s path towards District
3 is the newly opened, five-star Le
Meridien. Although the pomp and
ceremony of this recently inaugurated
property has yet to follow, according From Paris to Saigon KOTO Moves
to the hotel groups’ press release, It doesn’t get much more ‘now’ If you don’t know who or what
Le Méridien Saigon is set to be “the than crowd funding your first pop- KOTO is, then you’ve been living
gathering place for curious and up fashion outlet in Ho Chi Minh under a rock. Short for Know One,
creative-minded travellers”. City. That’s what Linda Mai Phung Teach One, KOTO is an NGO that
Adds the chain’s senior vice has done and now the homegrown provides on-the-job, fully certified
president, Lothar Pehl, “Vietnam’s fashion brand is ready to offer hospitality training to young adults
rich French influence is similar to that shoppers the first look at its Spring from disadvantaged backgrounds.
of Le Méridien. Our brand promises Summer collection. Featuring what As part of their programme,
to ‘unlock’ each destination it enters, they say are ‘timeless, glamorous’ KOTO has a restaurant, café and bar
and is sure to ignite a sensory Kathryn and Naya dresses, men staffed by its students and alumni,
discovery in Ho Chi Minh City’s are catered for, too, with something and this veritable institution has just
centre of commerce and culture.” they’ve called a ‘Viet Kieu print moved from its concealed alleyway
Welcome to the mad house, Le snapback’ on offer. Sounds like it off Hai Ba Trung to the top floor of
Meridien. Good Luck! might be a shirt. Hurry because the Kumho Plaza.
To celebrate the hotel’s opening, Le the shop is only open for a limited Visit the place, eat there, have a
Méridien Saigon is offering room rates time. beer or a coffee. You’ll enjoy it. And
starting from US$180++ (VND3.9 Linda Mai Phung is on the first floor, you’ll be making a difference, too.
million) per room per night. For more 28 Thai Van Lung, Q1, HCMC and is KOTO is at 3rd Floor Rooftop,
information or to make a reservation go only open until Jun. 20. For more info Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
to lemeridien.com/Saigon visit lindamaiphung.com 3822 9357
overscene HCMC
the mor the merrier harmony opens Organic Farmer’s

Photos by Nick Ross Photos by Nam Quan Market
North Irish comic Martin Mor made Dror Lam’s Vietnam-centric necklaces Photos by Nick Ross
the crowd bristle (yay beard puns) at finally have a home of their own Saigon Outcast’s first farmer market
Phatty’s was a hit, with 900 attendees getting
healthy for a change

If you have a noteworthy event which you think
would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look
dia projects craft whisky

Photos provided by DIA Projects festival
One of Saigon’s contemporary Photos by Owen Salisbury
backbones has finally hit the big time Antique Street curated a tasteful tasting
of some of America’s best bourbons and
ryes

ToDo
listHanoi
Hanoi’s got a lot going on this month, including
a huge international music festival. Here’s what
to do and where to go in the capital
1 Chilean Film Night

Every Tuesday — Jun. 2, Jun. 9, Jun.
16, Jun. 23 and Jun. 30
La Bicicleta, Tay Ho
Feast your eyes on a colourful range
of Chilean films, complete with
English subtitles, every week at La
Bicicleta, while feasting on delicious
Barcelona-style tapas. Kick off June
with a screening of the biographical
drama Violeta se fue a los cielos (2011).
Film nights run every Tuesday
from 7.30pm at La Bicicleta. For more
information, check out the programme on
the La Bicicleta Facebook page. Entrance
is free. La Bicicleta is at 44, Lane 31
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi
MoTioN by Etapp Kyle

Saturday Jun. 6
Madake, Tay Ho
Head to Madake to catch MoTioN,

an artistic performance combining
visual projections with music. Watch
R3aCtiOn come to life as self-created
sculptures react and evolve to special
beats supplied by critically acclaimed
guest DJ Etapp Kyle.
MoTioN will kick off at Madake (81
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi) from 10pm.
For more information, visit the Madake
Facebook page
Moments from Daily Life Stories Told in an Oriental
All month Way Hanoi Urban Flea Market
Vietnam Military History Museum, Until Sunday Jun. 20 Sunday Jun. 7
Ba Dinh Manzi, Ba Dinh Eden Garden, Tay Ho
Work by Do Tuan Anh — part of the exhibition, Stories Told in an Oriental Way
To celebrate the 61st anniversary Renowned as one of the most The Hanoi Urban Flea Market is back
of the victory of Dien Bien Phu, the formative artists in Vietnam, with its biggest flea market yet:
A 1951 oil portrait of Uncle Ho and General Giap by Van Duong Thanh
Vietnam Military History Museum Germany-based artist Do Tuan Anh Hanoi in Colors. Hosted at the newly
(28 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh) presents chronicles the feelings of darkness and re-opened Eden Garden (end of 264
this special exhibition on General isolation in his latest solo exhibition Au Co, Tay Ho), this relaxed urban
Vo Nguyen Giap. Opened with at Manzi Art Space, with a focus on his market presents a vibrant mish-mash
speeches from both Major General time in Solingen, Germany. of fashion boutiques, antiques stalls,
Nguyen Xuan Nang and Swedish The exhibition will run until Saturday homemade food stands, live music
Ambassador Camilla Mellander Jun. 20 and will be held at Manzi Art performances and pop-up eateries
last month, the exhibit will feature Space, 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh. For to help you while away those
artistic snapshots of the general’s life more information, visit the Manzi Art Sunday blues. There’s also Timeclub,
and will end on Sunday, Jul. 7. Space Facebook page. Entrance is free a recreation and entertainment kids
zone, offering a huge range of games
2 and activities to occupy the little
ones while you get some beers down
you. Sounds good, right?
Tickets are available for VND50,000
and can be purchased at ticketbox.vn or
at Timeclub. Kids under 12 enter free of
charge. Ticket numbers are limited. For
more information, visit the Hanoi Urban
Flea Market Facebook page
2.
1.

The Perfect
Date?
Word has teamed up with the Hotel
Metropole in Hanoi to offer a dating to
prize to one lucky couple.
Start the evening with dinner for two at Le

Beaulieu Restaurant followed by late night
cocktails at the Metropole's top-end bar
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one-night stay in a premium room with
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i s
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ToDo
listHanoi
Hanoi’s got a
lot going on
this month,
including
a huge
international
music
festival.
Here’s what
to do and
where to go
in the capital
European-Vietnamese Philadelphia, Here I Come! Summer Art School

Documentary Film Festival Friday Jun. 12 and Saturday Jun. 13 From Jun. 15
Wednesday, Jun. 10 Nha Hat Kich Theatre, Hoan Kiem Workroom Four, Tay Ho
Goethe Institut, Ba Dinh
From the same people who brought Occupy the kids this school
This year’s European-Vietnamese you an epic production of James holidays with one and two-week
Documentary Film Festival and the Giant Peach just last year, Summer Art School courses hosted
kicks off with a screening of the The Hanoi International Theatre by art and design consultancy
German production Sound of Society unveils its latest production, Work Room Four (Packexim
Heimat, presented by director Arne Philadelphia, Here I Come! this month Building, Tower 1, 24th Floor,
Birkenstock. A joint event between at the Nha Hat Kich Theatre (1 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay
cultural institutes and multiple Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem — behind Ho). Running from 9am to 3.30pm,
embassies in Vietnam, this nine-day the Opera House). A tragicomedy courses start on Jun. 15 and will
movie fest offers Hanoians the written by Irish playwright Brian allow kids to hone their creative
chance to view a wide range of Friel, the show centers on Gar and skills and learn from teachers with
documentary films from around his adventures on his last night in more than 15 years UK art and
Europe and Southeast Asia. the small Irish town of Ballybeg. design teaching experience.
The festival launch event will start HITS donates a percentage of proceeds For more information on the
from 6.30pm at the National Studio to a local charity. The performance will courses available and prices, click
for Documentary and Science Film be held at Nha Hat Kich Theatre, with on workroomfour.com. Young artists
Vietnam (465 Hoang Hoa Tham, Ba tickets costing VND200,000 per person. aged 17 and above can apply for work
Dinh). For more information and the Tickets can be bought at Kitchen, Puku experience as teaching assistants
full schedule, click on goethe.de/ins/ and The Hanoi Social Club. There
vn/en/han are three performances: Friday and
Saturday at 7.30pm as well as a matinee
performance at 1pm on the Saturday

1. Twiggy Frostbite and The Deer Tracks to play at CAMA ATK on Jun. 11
2. Photo from last year’s ASEAN Pride music festival at The American Club
3. Onion Cellar will be debuting a curated series of music documentaries, Sounds by Southeast, at ASEAN Pride. The films include
work by Vincent Moon, Harana, Y OUR Music and Yangon Calling
Photo by Aidan Dockery
2 3
ASEAN Pride Music Festival 2.0

Swedish (Music) Showcase Saturday Jun. 20
Thursday Jun. 11 The American Club, Hoan Kiem
CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung
The ASEAN Music Festival returns troupe, DJ Lotus Disco, and more.
Bust out your best (and worst) in 2015 with a bang, with artists This year’s fest will also
dance moves to the sounds of from the United States and around feature a debut from Sounds by
Sweden’s hottest young music the region take to the stage at the Southeast, The Onion Cellar’s
acts, thanks to this first-of-its- American Club. Jointly organized curated series of Southeast Asian
kind collaboration between by the U.S. Embassy and CAMA music documentaries, focusing on
CAMA Vietnam and The Vietnam, and marking the 20th musicians operating on the fringe
Swedish Embassy. The line up anniversary of diplomatic ties of society.
includes electro duo The Deer between Vietnam and the U.S., Doors open from 1pm, with
Tracks, famous folkpop band ASEAN Pride 2015: Celebrating community booths, arts and crafts
Twiggy Frostbite and Adora Eye, Family will build on last year’s and plenty of food and drink to
touted by many as the long lost festival in raising awareness keep you going into the evening.
love child of Bob Dylan and Tom about lesbian, gay, bisexual, ASEAN Pride 2015 will take place
Waits. and transgender (LGBT) issues. on Jun. 20 from 1pm until 11pm.
The Swedish Showcase will be Headlining the festival will For more information on ASEAN
held at CAMA ATK, 73A Mai Hac be U.S. indie rock band Thao Pride 2015, or to buy tickets, visit
De, Hai Ba Trung. Tickets cost Nguyen & The Get Down Stay www.aseanpride.com. And to read an
VND150,000 on the door or can be Down, alongside Vietnam’s own article on the festival, go to page 18
pre-purchased for VND80,000 in transgender pop sensation Huong The exhibition is open daily from
advance. For more information, visit Giang Idol, Malaysia’s O.J. Law, 8am until 4.30pm and ends on
the CAMA ATK Facebook page To Lam and his high-heel dance Sunday, Jul. 7

Just
Hanoi IN 1. A work in progress — the new VIP Bikes on West Lake
2. Hanoi Panic
VIP Moves
Everybody’s favourite social
enterprise, VIP Bikes, has upped
roots from its premises close to the
Old Quarter, to new surroundings
on the north end of West Lake.
A long time in coming — the
old space was just too small — VIP
trains up disadvantaged youth
to become Australian-certified
mechanics. In the process they
provide you, me and everyone else
1 asunder with some well-needed
assurance about our motorbikes —
here they repair them well, and fast,
too. Restoration is another part of
the service provided by VIP. So are
rentals.
But, if man at the helm Andrew
Souto has his way, the ground floor
of the new premises will be turned
into a proper, modern showroom
selling anything from motorbike
accessories to, well, anything to
do with bikes. And the downstairs
workshop will also be upgraded.
Watch this space, VIP Bikes is
going places. Will you be along for
the ride?
The new VIP Bikes is at 17 Ve Ho,
Tay Ho, Hanoi (opposite the rowing
club), or online at vipbikes.org
Zines, social
Hanoi Panic not Hai Phong? That’s exactly
enterprises 2 If you remember Hanoi Panic as what CapitaLand thought when
being a place where you could once their serviced residence business
and serviced buy Thai street food, think again. unit, The Ascott Limited, opened
apartments. The brand has just relaunched itself
as a bilingual zine dealing with all
up the first Somerset serviced
residence in what is one of this
What’s new things LGBT in the capital. country’s largest cities.
Available at Joma, Daluva, La Located in a prime urban area
in Hanoi Bicicleta and Oasis Bar, as one friend in the city, the 132-unit Somerset
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this weekend”. Whether they found the international airport, seaport,
it or not, we forgot to ascertain. But industrial zone and old town centre.
what we do know is that if you go With introductory rates starting
to facebook.com/hanoipanic, you might from VND1.65 million ++ per night
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National Day Photos by Julie Vola Photos by Julie Vola
Photos provided by the Embassy of A Viet Pride organised party at The We’re not quite sure what took place
Argentina at HRC on May 17 — the Wi-Fi was
American Club brought together a
Malbec, tango and all things from out and someone forgot to tell us
craft market, food and drink and the
Argentina. The South American — but we do know it involved live
city’s youth
community and their many friends music, alcoholic beverages and lots of
celebrated a night to remember at the people. Sounds like fun!
Melia Hanoi

If you have a noteworthy event which you think
would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look
art for you queer disco

Photos by Julie Vola Photos by Tung Del
Manzi and Workroom Four teamed The monthly 80s night at CAMA ATK
up to bring affordable art made by brought out the crowds for a night of
Vietnam-linked artists to the general glam, rock, dancing and a lotta, lotta
public fun. Madonna anyone?
Insider
The Ambassador / The Historian / The Nepal Earthquake / Looking For Love / The Cong Ca Phe Story / The
Best Mexican Food in Saigon / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Street Snacker Hanoi / Mystery Diner HCMC / Street
Snacker HCMC / Fashion / 10 Reasons to Visit Kazakhstan / The Expat's Guide to Travelling with Dad
Photo by Julie Vola
Insider
Many Faces National
The Ambassador
Always eager to mingle on the diplomatic cocktail circuit, David Mann met the
U.S. Ambassador Ted Osius to talk diplomacy, diapers and daily life in Vietnam.
Photo by Julie Vola

F
ew foreigners know Vietnam like “The fact that we’re engaging with
Ted Osius, a Maryland native who thousands of young people on Facebook,
first set foot on Vietnamese soil that wasn’t possible before. Now the internet
as a junior diplomat with the U.S. means that people are much more open in
Embassy in 1996. It was a time when their discussions, in their engagements with
he was able to cycle around the city each other about what kind of future they
anonymously and practise his Vietnamese want to have.”
on unassuming street vendors.
“In the north, people told me I sounded Family Life
like a southerner, and in the south people For a country with still evolving attitudes
told me I sounded like a northerner,” he towards sexual diversity, Ambassador
recalls. “It was mostly bicycles back then, Osius says Vietnam has been very accepting
there weren’t very many motorbikes.” towards him, husband Clayton Bond and
The period where Osius was first posted their two young children, Tabo, 16 months,
in Vietnam was the beginning of a new and Lucy, born earlier this year.
relationship between the two countries. It is “I’m the first out gay U.S. Ambassador
a relationship that has delivered astonishing in East Asia. That was something that just
and unforeseen gains in the two decades wasn’t possible a few years ago,” he says.
following the normalisation of relations and “When I joined the foreign service, that
the lifting of the U.S. trade embargo. was not the case. Now it is and I can have
Now Osius has returned to a different a husband and two children and come and
experience. Not only is Vietnam a vastly serve in this country that I actually know
altered place, but he is also the United very well. I can be judged based on my
States’ official envoy at a pivotal point in merits and my ability to do the job, not
the bilateral relationship, with a landmark based on what my family looks like. That’s a
comprehensive partnership laying the new thing and that’s a powerful thing.”
groundwork for closer political, economic Osius also wants his family immersed
and strategic ties that would have seemed in Vietnamese culture as much as possible,
highly unlikely just 20 years ago. with the aim that his children will forge the
“For me it’s a dream come true to be same bond he has with Vietnam.
back,” he said. “I served here from 1996 to “We have these wonderful Vietnamese
1998 and I speak the language, so it’s like people [working with us] who are kind of
a coming home. And it’s wonderful to be part of our extended family and adore our
here now to lay the foundation for a new children,” he says. “Our children will speak
relationship.” Vietnamese first and I’m very happy about
that.”
Stronger Ties With an impeccable 27-year-long career in
That new relationship is founded on nine the U.S. Foreign Service, Osius has served
pillars of cooperation laid out by Presidents postings in Jakarta, New Delhi, Bangkok and
Sang and Obama in 2013, ranging from Manila. This focus on Asia was deliberate
education to the environment. Ambassador and something he planned from day one.
Osius says his job is to make this ambitious “Asia is where it’s happening,” he
vision a reality. explains. “I made the decision at the
“I’ve been asked by President Obama beginning of my entry class that I was going
to deepen this partnership. To make this to spend my career in Asia. I’ve never looked
partnership, which has a framework, real. I back, and I’ve never been sorry.”
want to see a deep relationship on education, But it’s Vietnam, he says, that will always
on trade and economics, on human rights, be his second home.
on security, the environment, science and “For me it’s a dream come true. What I
technology and health. love about this country is that people are
“I believe we’re developing a joint vision so hospitable and warm and welcoming.
of what the next 20 years could look like. It’s I’ve loved it more than any other place I’ve
not just my vision, it’s Vietnam’s vision, it’s served.”
one that we’re developing together.” Ted Osius will be addressing festival-goers
Osius is also bringing a 21st-century at the ASEAN Pride festival on Jun. 20.
approach to diplomacy, with a strong Sponsored by the U.S. Embassy and organised
focus on connecting with Vietnam’s youth in conjunction with CAMA, last year’s event
through social media and regular speaking saw 5,000 people pass through the doors of the
engagements at local universities. Such American Club in Hanoi. As well as providing
efforts have paid off handsomely, earning some great live music, the festival aims to raise
him nearly 12,000 Facebook fans since awareness of LGBTQ issues in Vietnam. To read
arriving in December last year. more, turn to page 18.

Insider
Many Faces National
The Historian

Sue Fleming heads 20km out of Hanoi to Kim Lan and Kim Lan
meets a self-taught village elder who has been The historical importance of the ceramic
instrumental in getting the village in touch with its past. village of Kim Lan is not widely known
and yet this place is easily accessible
Photos by Julie Vola. Translation by Nguyen Ha Linh from Hanoi. In lanes along the Red
River, small family establishments with
N
their own coal-fired kilns are busily
guyen Viet Hong has spent the book tucked under his arm. We look in involved in the production of ceramics.
majority of his 79 years in the small amazement at the coins. The inscriptions are Kim Lan’s long history has been
rural village of Kim Lan in Gia Lam, clear — some are Chinese, many from the pieced together through archaeological
a district of Hanoi. But his depth of Tang dynasty, and others are Vietnamese and historical research. In AD865, the
knowledge and love of learning belie his from as early as the 10th century. Hong Chinese general, Cao Bien, was sent to
modest rural life. opens the thick tome, written in Chinese, administer Vietnam, known then as La
With a warm and welcoming smile, with information on early Chinese coins. Thanh. The general returned to China
Nguyen Viet Hong takes us into his home. “Because of my love of history I am but two soldiers remained to establish
We sit around a table in a traditional fascinated by these coins,” he explains. a settlement. This was when the village
wooden Vietnamese family house, drinking “They were discovered in Kim Lan. With of Kim Lan was born. Although Cao
tea and listening to Hong’s lively voice my knowledge of Chinese, and the help of a Bien was a Chinese general, he is
recount the story of his life. What had dictionary, I was able read about them.” remembered because of the industry
brought us to Kim Lan village, about 20km The most recent coins are dated 1008. and wealth that he brought to the
south-east of Hanoi, was an interest in Hong brings out another book from the village. There is a statue of him in the
ceramics, but the story of Hong’s life is far cupboard under the family altar. There dinh. The parallel sentences on the
more than a story about ancient pottery. gates speak of him.
Unusual items are hung on the walls It is believed that Kim Lan predated
of the room: a display of old coins; a
photocopy of a hand-drawn map from 1497,
“Hong did not attend a neighbouring Bat Trang and may have
been the earliest place in Vietnam to
showing Hanoi and the surrounding area, prestigious school and produce ceramics. In 1010, when Ly
including Kim Lan, Bat Trang and the Red
River; hand written parallel sentences in university. His deep Thai To, king of the newly independent
Vietnam, established his citadel at
Han Chinese script on either side of the
altar; photographs of a smartly-dressed
knowledge of history, Thang Long (now Hanoi), the village
supplied ceramics to the royal capital.
Hong at official gatherings. Through a archaeology and But ceramics from Kim Lan went
side door we glimpse a mini museum. Its
glass cabinets are crowded with pieces of pottery has instead much further than Hanoi. Excavations
in the village by the Vietnam Institute of
delicate pottery, ancient building tiles and
clay artifacts. We ask Hong how all these are
been acquired through Archaeology, Vietnam History Museum
and a Japanese archeological group,
linked to his life. a lifelong process found pieces that matched those found
in Japan and Korea, showing that
The Project of self-teaching and high quality ceramics were exported
Smiling, Hong jumps up from the table and
returns a few minutes later with a collection
learning” overseas from Kim Lan in the 13th and
14th centuries.
of coins mounted on a board and a thick In 1996, after floods eroded the
banks of the Red River, three pots
(each weighing 18kg) of ancient
Chinese, Japanese, Korean and
Vietnamese coins were discovered in
Kim Lan. Most were from the China’s
Tang dynasty but some were minted
much earlier. Why these coins were
buried is a mystery, but they show that
Kim Lan was once a wealthy village
and its people travelled and traded
extensively.
In 2013, the first community
museum in Vietnam opened in Kim
Lan. It was built with funds raised by
the community and by Nishimura
Masanari, the Japanese archaeologist
who spent 13 years living and
researching there.
Kim Lan still has the atmosphere of
a traditional village. Buddhist nuns care
for the peaceful pagoda, and the dinh
is an important community building.
The Catholic church has a stunning
French tile floor. In the busy market, the
people are welcoming.

are photographs of excavations, of pieces
of pottery and many of Hong with a man
called Nishi. How is this all connected to
him?
He explains.
“As a child I picked up pieces of pottery
from the riverbank, but had not thought
they were anything special. Many years
later I began to look carefully at these shards
and realised that they were not new. The
designs and glazes are different to the ones
used now. So I collected more pieces from
the riverbank, where flooding had eroded
the soil.”
On his retirement Hong joined up with
four other amateur archaeologists in the
village to form a community archaeological
project — Tim Ve Coi Nguon (Tracing the
Origins). By the year 2000, the group felt
confident enough about their discoveries
to write to the Institute of Archaeology in
Hanoi. The institute, along with the Vietnam
History Museum, excavated and found
pottery artifacts dating back to 7th century.
Who was Nishi and how did he fit into
the story?
“Nishimura Masanari was a young
Japanese archaeologist working in
Vietnam,” says Hong. “He came with his
Japanese wife and their two children to live
in Kim Lan while Nishi was working on his
thesis.”
Together with Hong they began to do
some research and became both colleagues
and firm friends. When Nishimura died in
an accident in 2013, he was buried in the
village.
Before Nishimura’s death, he and Hong
had achieved their dream for the village — a
museum. Here 300 exhibits are displayed,
many of them discovered and donated by
Hong. Hong proudly shows us around and
points out the photograph of himself and
his wife, and another of Nishimura.
Self-Taught
We listen to these stories but want to know
more about Hong himself.
Born in 1936, he was the first boy after
seven sisters. Being the eldest son of a
respected family that had been in the
village for many generations gave him
responsibilities. However, Hong’s special
place in his village is not only due to his
birth; it comes from his achievements.
Hong has a profound knowledge of the
ancient history of Vietnam. He acquired this
knowledge by being able to read in four
languages — Vietnamese, Chinese, French
and Russian. All his life he has studied, but
only attended formal schooling as a young
boy at a small school in the village dinh
(community temple). Here he was taught in
French. After three years, his father enrolled
him with a Chinese teacher, but a few
months later this teacher passed away. At
the age of fifteen, Hong married and again
studied Chinese and Han Nom (ancient
Vietnamese), with his father-in-law as his
teacher. He showed us the dedication that
he wrote in nom at the time of his marriage.
As a young man, Hong worked for a

“By the year 2000, the group felt confident Visiting Kim Lan
enough about their discoveries to write to To get to Kim Lan village, jump on the
47B bus and travel to the last stop.
the Institute of Archaeology in Hanoi. The Alternatively, cross over Chuong Duong
institute, along with the Vietnam History Bridge and drive south on the dyke
road. Pass the turning to the Eco Park
Museum, excavated and found pottery on your left and the turning to Bat Trang
on your right. Cross the canal, turn right
artifacts dating back to 7th century” and drive for about 2km. The museum
is open at weekends.

short time at a Hanoi printing house. This
gave him the opportunity to extend his
knowledge of languages and history; he
learnt to read and write in Vietnamese and
studied books in French and Chinese. Later
he learnt Russian by reading novels and
listening to the radio.
Hong’s eyes twinkle as he talks about
his time in Hanoi. I ask him what had
impressed him most.
“I was fascinated by the city, by the
cosmopolitan atmosphere, the food, the
books and the bicycles,” he recalls. “I rented
a bike by the hour to teach himself to ride.”
On returning to Kim Lan in 1954, Hong
became a Vietnamese teacher but, needing
a steady income to support his family, he
got a job at a ceramics factory in Bat Trang.
He worked there until his retirement. This
began his interest in pottery, an interest that
has continued to this day.
Hong shows us some of the pieces he
has collected — many more are now in the
History Museum in Hanoi or the village

museum. Attached to the family house is
a pottery workshop with a traditional,
coal-fired kiln where Hong still works
with his son and daughter-in-law.
Listening to Hong, watching
him read and explain the Chinese
inscriptions in the coin book and on
the parallel sentences (which he had
inscribed) on the gateway of the
dinh, it is difficult to believe that
he did not attend a prestigious
school and university. His
deep knowledge of history,
archaeology and pottery has
instead been acquired through
a lifelong process of self-
teaching and learning.
Inscriptions on the gates of
the dinh speak of Kim Lan as an
important place because of its
ceramic skills and the number of
scholars that have come from the
village. Hong is the modern-day
link to that tradition.
Special Thanks
A note of thanks to the interpreter for
this article, Nguyen Ha Linh. This
piece was only possible thanks to
her translation skills. Linh is a student
at Hanoi University. She is studying
Chinese and wants to become a
scholar and researcher.

Insider
insider National
The Nepal Earthquake

The earthquake that hit Nepal on at the end of April has been devastating. Here are
two personal accounts from people living in Vietnam of what happened

“‘When it starts to shake, there is nothing you
can do. It’s like something is moving yourself
backwards and forwards, 10cm to each side’”
David Mann, Word’s staff editor based collapsing on them.

in Hanoi, had a different experience. The “All the communication had shut down
earthquake struck before he and his partner and we couldn’t contact our driver. We were
flew into Kathmandu. For some reason, the supposed to be catching a flight. We couldn’t
airline decided not to tell them. They, too, contact anyone.”
got stuck. Kim Oanh starts showing me pictures.
Here are their stories. At 11.39 she took photos of where they
were eating. Opposite the restaurant was a
Henri and Kim Oanh temple, and in the temple, leaning out the
Henri, Kim Oanh and their son Duy were window, was a boy with a pigeon on his
in Kathmandu’s historic Durbar Square shoulder. She took a picture of the boy.
when the earthquake struck. A UNESCO- It was right before the earthquake and
listed heritage site, many of the buildings they had just finished lunch. She had gone
collapsed. They were fortunate. Theirs out onto the restaurant’s balcony.
didn’t. “I saw some foreigners, some tourists
“We were in a small restaurant,” says walking around the stupas, taking photos,
Henri. “We were lucky because my wife and then all of sudden, bang. The first
and my son Duy wanted to have local food. earthquake. It lasted five seconds. The
So we went to the cheapest restaurant. The second earthquake was the first big one. It
W
building didn’t go down and we were okay. lasted 10 seconds. Two stupas went down.
ith its epicentre close to Gorkha in “When it starts to shake, there is nothing Then came the third earthquake, another
Central Nepal, the 7.9 magnitude you can do. It’s like something is moving big shake. One more stupa crashed to the
earthquake that struck on Apr. yourself backwards and forwards, 10cm to ground.
26 has been responsible for the each side. “While the buildings collapsed, we just
deaths of almost 9,000 people. According to the “And then, suddenly, we just saw couldn’t move.”
UN, another 6.6 million people live in districts buildings collapsing.” She then shows me a film. Once again her
affected by the disaster. “Boom, boom,” chimes in Kim Oanh, hands are unsteady as she runs me through
Many have been left homeless and the making gestures with her hands. “And it. In the film the ground starts to shake
country is already reported to be running people were shouting.” again. And in another video she shows me,
out of water and food. There are also Henri continues. you can hear the panic in her voice as she
frequent power cuts. One can only imagine “We managed to get outside and people searches for her husband, Henri.
how much the Nepalese have been suffering. were shouting. They were looking for their “We were so lucky,” she says. “We were so
Film-maker Henri Phimasset and kids, their friends. Foreigners were hugging lucky. I remember saying to myself, please
restaurant owner Kim Oanh were on holiday each other and trying to be safe. don’t shake again.”
with their son when the earthquake struck. “The Nepalese came from other areas Fortune was on their side. The family
They saw buildings collapse in front of nearby to stand with us. They’re used to the found their guide and they went to the car.
their eyes and count themselves lucky. Very shaking, and when this happens they always They drove to the airport, but had to stop
lucky. It took them three days to get out of go to areas where there’s space around twice because of the shaking.
Kathmandu. them, because there’s no risk of buildings “When we arrived, all the flights were

“‘As the plane lifted off there was this universal sigh of relief from all
the passengers. Nobody had actually believed we were going to leave.
Within 10 minutes, everyone on board had fallen asleep’”
cancelled,” continues Kim Oanh. “It was a

big mess. So we had to decide whether we
should go back into Katmandu to a hotel or
move to a new place. But to go somewhere
else would have been six hours by car. We
didn’t know what it was going to be like on
the street or what had happened with the
bridges. So we decided to return to a hotel in
Katmandu.”
By chance they managed to find a good
hotel that had been designed to withstand
earthquakes. They stayed there for three
nights.
“The first night was extremely scary
because no-one dared to sleep in their
room,” says Kim Oanh. “The hotel lobby
was like a refugee camp. People from all
around the world brought down their
pillows and blankets and all slept together.
“But every night there were still some
aftershocks. The first two nights we woke
up in the middle of the night because
people started screaming — it had been
shaking again. But we just decided that we
needed to get a flight as soon as possible
because our son just needed to be home.”
On the third day after phone calls back
to Vietnam, they were able to get on a
plane to Guangzhou.
Says Henri: “It was amazing, as the
aircraft lifted off there was this universal
sigh of relief from all the passengers.
Photos by Kim Oanh
Nobody had actually believed we were

going to leave. Within 10 minutes,
everyone on board had fallen asleep. We
were exhausted.”
Adds Kim Oanh: “Now we’re back I’m
still shaking. I haven’t slept well all week Before and after the earthquake. The top left image was shot an hour before the Nepal
and I’ve lost my appetite.” earthquake in Kathmandu. The other three were taken in its immediate aftermath.

David Mann rattling above the bed. Almost as soon as I decide the best thing we can do is head for
It’s 8.10pm in Guangzhou and we’re realise what’s happening, the aftershock is Pokhara by car.
wondering why our flight to Kathmandu over. With the sun rising, we can see that the As we drive through the outskirts of
hasn’t left. Then, almost on cue, the gate sign building opposite ours has been reduced to Kathmandu that we come face-to-face
flashes an update: “Delay due to ‘OTHER rubble. with the true impact of the devastation.
REASON’”. Everyone looks around, We head to the airport where thousands Relief workers pull bodies from crushed
confused. The airline staff tell me there’s of frantic people are trying to push their way buildings, people crowd open spaces in
been an earthquake so the plane is leaving into the terminal, desperate to buy a ticket small tents and thousands are scrambling to
late. There’s no Wi-Fi and no-one knows on one of the few international flights that board buses leaving the city.
anything. haven’t been cancelled. Armed guards try to The pattern of destruction is erratic.
Nine hours later, and we are still none maintain control. There are long stretches with no damage.
the wiser as we exit the airport. A cool Exhausted, hungry and without a ticket, Then all at once you see dozens of buildings
breeze whips across our faces as we turn a we soon give up on getting inside the leaning on each other like dominos.
corner and see thousands upon thousands terminal. Another weary traveller explains Occasionally there are enormous mounds
of people camped outside the airport’s that the few flights leaving are booked out of rubble.
entrances. for three days. A Dutch girl warns us that Heading to Pokhara was the right decision.
What the hell is going on? the 72 hours after the quake is the “danger It was largely unaffected and life was
Tired and confused, we hail a taxi. zone”. resuming as normal. We changed our trek to
As we journey to the hotel, the driver Eventually we find an empty China somewhere untouched by the quake and met
carefully navigates around swathes of Southern Airlines office on the fourth floor of people who told us the devastating impact the
people huddling in the middle of the roads. an old airport building. We decide to camp earthquake would have on their livelihoods, in
Through darkness we spot the occasional out until a staff member turns up. Other addition to the tragic human cost.
collapsed building or damaged wall. angry passengers from our arrival flight Nepal is a beautiful country with
“A 7.9 earthquake. People are very soon join us, with us all wondering how an incredible people: easily one of the most
scared,” our taxi driver tells us. “No-one has airline could ethically fly its passengers into magnificent places I’ve travelled to. I
gone back into their house. So many people a disaster zone without a word of warning? hope to return someday soon and would
have died.” The death toll is estimated After an hour or so, we hear a familiar encourage others to visit, when it becomes
at 2,300, but that figure would tragically rumble and the ground begins to shake safe to do so.
skyrocket in coming days. violently. People start screaming and More importantly, I would encourage
At the hotel, there’s no power and guests scrambling under tables. We grab each other people to donate much-needed funds to the
are asleep in the lobby. We manage to and stand under the nearest doorway. It relief efforts.
connect to nearby Wi-Fi and our phones stops after 40 seconds and everyone starts If you’d like to help the relief efforts, consider
soon start pinging with messages from running down the stairs, certain the building donating to Plan Nepal. Active in Nepal since
worried loved ones. The magnitude of the is about to collapse. 1978, they work to support child rights and
situation hits home and we agree to leave Our trekking guide in Pokhara is soon end child poverty. They’re currently setting up
Nepal as soon as possible. in touch and tells us that everything is fine at least 100 temporary schools, helping 12,000
The sound of breaking glass rouses us there. Unable to secure a flight that would children regain some stability in their lives —
from our sleep at 5.30am. The light shade is leave within the 72-hour buffer zone, we donate at plan-international.org

Cover Story

Looking for Love
For some people it’s easy. Take a high school sweetheart,
add some kisses, settle down in Aruba and start
a horse farm. Your bronzed, Aruban
ocean-god children will thank you.
The rest of us get a bit older, more particular,

harder to perfectly match. We get skilled at the social stuff,
well, more skilled anyway. We meet people, some amazing
and some not. And we realise that love is a bit more
illusory than they portray it in the movies.
But we go on dates anyway. They’re fun, sexy, horrifying,

everything we look for in a story to tell our friends
over Sunday brunch. And, ever so occasionally,
they lead us to what we’re all searching for in life.
Photo by Francis Xavier.
Thanks to Quoc Tin (475-477 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, HCMC) for providing the mannequins.

Dating in the Dark
As the ‘dining in the dark’ concept has become more popular, we set out to find out
what would happen if we combined that with another always-trending topic — expat
dating. Cupid played by Jon Aspin. Photos by Nick Ross

Solomon, 35 Anniken, 27
Rachel, 24 Calvin, 37
Les, 29 Dannie, 31
Henrike, 28 Lee, 31
“I
t’s going to be low-key kind of scrutiny you can do without. into the mix for photography’s sake,
mate, really light-hearted, Going out in public with someone and these singles would be relying
no pressure at all,” I said. you barely know can be bad enough. on more than simple good looks and
“You’ll meet some great Doing it in front of a magazine subtle body language to impress the
girls, you’ll have a few drinks — crew for the general public’s opposite sex.
you’ll love it.” consumption? Are you crazy?
Two days later, and Lee is Of course this wasn’t an ordinary Looking for Love
sweating under the glare of date we were inviting people on. Recruited from various ‘social
professional flare lights, I’m Inspired by the popularity of the networks’, my first signing was
interviewing him on-camera and my pitch-black nights out offered by our youngest dater, 24-year-old
editor is probing his eyelids with a ‘dining in the dark’ restaurants — “all-American” freelance writer and
Canon-480 zoom. Lee’s still smiling, and an idea supplied by two friends Word contributor Rachel. Next came
but my sales pitch does seem to have of the magazine — for this issue we English teacher Henrike, 28, from
gone a little left of true. Welcome to decided to play with the rules a little. Amsterdam, followed by financial
Word’s blind speed date. The formula? Four girls, four guys, services product manager Dannie,
Anyone who’s ever been on a seven minutes and a mission. Throw 31, a recent arrival from the “weird
date knows that this is exactly the blindfolds and a non-dark restaurant date” capital of LA. Rounding out

“Les had the chance to make his
dates say ‘fish sauce’ as many
times as possible, while Henrike
was tasked with finding out the
strangest place anyone had ever
spent the night. Turns out the
inside of a tractor tyre is a pretty
good place to get your head down”

my intercontinental girl quartet was
‘wildcard’ entry Anniken, 27, an
Estonian filmmaker and teacher here
— yes, the one with the purple hair.
On the boys’ side, always on
board were Lee, a 31-year-old gym
owner and boxing instructor from
Bristol, England, wearing possibly
the best shirt in Saigon, as well as
nice guy Solomon from Hawaii, 35,
and a former US Marine. Following
their lead were kite-surfing singer-
songwriter Les, 29, from Melbourne,
and San Francisco-native Calvin, a
37-year-old talent manager about
town and one of the funniest cats
you’ll meet.
It’s a good-looking group in
anyone’s language, and a fair
representation of what’s on offer for
single Saigonites. I was right to feel
happy with my work as cupid.
Pre-Date
Of course all of our participants
had some nerves — these were real
people in a real setting — but in the
pre-date interviews a theme became
clear. No-one had any expectations.
“None at all,” said Solomon. “I
just came here because I thought it
sounded like a pretty cool idea; meet
some new people, have a couple
drinks, it should be a good time.”
Right on.
Anniken was a little more
circumspect, admitting that she’d
just been out on what she called an
‘amazing’ date the night before, and
was having a little trouble clearing
her mind for this one. “I don’t know
what to say, it’s weird. I have to go
brush my hair, he’s about to take my
portrait.”
Keeping the boys and girls apart
proved a fun game in itself. Arriving
earlier than the girls, and having
done their best on-camera work
already, the boys were dispatched
from dating ground zero — Lu Bu
in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 2 —
to the nearest watering hole. Here
they imbibed some Dutch courage
while the ladies did their thing. On
collecting the men I then led them on
what I’m claiming as Saigon’s first
‘blindfolded speed-date elephant
walk’ back to the restaurant.
The Mission is a Man

After this spectacle, table-by-table
introductions were made and these
eight fearless singletons were let
loose on each other — for seven
minutes each. Fearing awkward
silences, I installed a ‘secret mission’.
Les had the chance to make his dates
say “fish sauce” as many times as
possible, while Henrike was tasked
with finding out the strangest place
anyone had ever spent the night.

“Anniken gave us a dose of Estonian
reality. ‘I think everyone should date
blind for the first three months, and
really get to know each other. Because
even though I found all of the guys
interesting while blindfolded, as soon as
we revealed, I lost interest immediately.
I think I have to go back and think
about a few things’”
Turns out the inside of a tractor tyre the mission, I was more interested in this conversation translate into any
is a pretty good place to get your the guys I was meeting!” action? Would Les sweep Rachel off
head down. Some couldn’t resist breaching the her feet and put her in his suitcase
Moving through the rotations visual gap by initiating contact with back to Australia? Would Dannie
the conversations were flowing each other beyond the strangers’ jump into Solomon’s arms and
a lot more easily than I expected, voice that sat opposite. When I declare undying love for her new
and though it seemed initially like saw handholding going on, I was Latino Marine?
seven minutes per date would be a impressed, and wondered if my Anniken gave us a dose of
long time, it was the opposite. “The cupid’s arrow would actually find Estonian reality. “I think everyone
time ran out so fast,” said Rachel its mark. should date blind for the first three
later. “By the time you did the usual months, and really get to know each
intros, the mission just became a The Reveal other. Because even though I found
distraction, but I guess it was pretty Having built up 28 minutes worth all of the guys interesting while
fun to try, even though I failed.” of anticipation, we were all looking blindfolded, as soon as we revealed,
Dannie was more blunt, “I ignored forward to the reveal. Would all I lost interest immediately. I think I

have to go back and think about a admitted to having a strategy. “I frame our communication —
few things.” knew what I wanted to find out, our daters talked openly. There
Nice guy Solomon may have had so I tried my best to control the was no awkward eye contact or
his fancy taken by one or two of his conversation. I don’t think there uncomfortable body language to
dates, but at day’s end was keeping was any obvious ‘chemistry’ per se, deal with, and what started out
his cards close to his chest, as was but they were all very lovely ladies as a bit of fun ended up being an
Henrike. “I really enjoyed the to talk to.” interesting social experiment.
experience, it’s super interesting to Whether or not love comes “Not seeing the other person, I
build up a picture in your head of to town, one thing was clear; really had to rely on listening to
what that person looks like from not being able to see the other get to know them,” said Les. “It’s
their voice, and then when you see person opened up our daters a definitely made me realise how
them, it’s nothing like what you lot more than they all expected. important that is. I probably don’t
expect.” Without distraction by physical do it enough.”
But did any sparks fly at all? appearance and body language Check out more from behind the
Calvin was the only one who — visual cues that usually scenes online at wordvietnam.com

How to Ruin
a Date in Vietnam
Trust Niko Savvas… he’s a professional
I
n Vietnam, dating is like singing: frozen yogurt emporium would be Bore Them to Tears
most people are terrible at it, yet perfect. If his English is poor and There’s still a chance that your
they do it all the time. The problem you are hard of hearing, choose the date will be so starved for human
is endemic. If you’ve lived here a loudest discotheque in the city. If he interaction that he won’t notice
while and are or were single, you’ve can’t swim, go to the pool — your your elaborate attempts at
probably had at least a handful of problem may resolve itself quicker sabotage. You’ll need to ratchet up
truly awful dates. And each time you than you’d think! the intensity if you have any hope
likely found yourself thinking: Dear It’s important for both you and of binging on Game of Thrones and
god, when will this be over? your date to dislike the venue equally. microwaved Indian food later.
You are a busy person, and your If you choose a place that your date While politics, religion, and your
time is valuable. You can’t afford to can tolerate with little effort, you may grandmother’s views on late-term
waste precious hours of your life find yourself trapped there for hours, abortions are normally excellent
listening to ugly, boring people talk lingering like a stale elevator fart. conversation topics, try to avoid
about their ugly, boring problems. controversial subjects that might
You’ve got more important things to Dress to Depress pique your date’s interest. Instead,
do. If you wanted to hear a tedious According to National Geographic, focus on the horrific injustices
spiel about deadbeat fathers, you’d roughly 30 percent of neurons in the you have endured since early
answer your kids’ phone calls. human brain are devoted to sight. childhood.
There’s a simple and effective way We place a great deal of importance Were you a better fingerpainter
to avoid these unpleasant situations: in what we can see. Coincidentally, than Bart Larsen? You’re goddamn
don’t go on dates. Unfortunately, the other 70 percent of our brain’s right you were, even if you don’t
most people refuse to take this advice. neurons are devoted to criticising have the smiley-face stickers
Hope springs eternal in the human what we see. The clothes you wear to prove it. Don’t stop there.
breast, though it probably shouldn’t, can send a clear message to your No schoolyard anecdote is too
and nothing is more hopeful or date about how little you value his hackneyed, no familial quarrel too
stupid than a person who hasn’t company. insipid, no venereal disease too pus-
gotten laid lately. It’s common knowledge that filled to refrain from mentioning. Be
With this in mind, here is a guide horizontal stripes make you look careful, though. If your date finds
to making your next inept foray into taller and eyeglasses make you look anything relatable in your stream of
romance as swift and painless as like a nerd, but why stop there? There inanities, you may never get to find
possible. are literally thousands of fashion out whom Khaleesi is pissing off
don’ts that can smother your date’s this week.
Choose an Unsuitable libido before it stirs. Here are some of
Location the more popular ones: If That Doesn’t Work…
Think of the last place you had fun Choose a heavy, stiff-necked shirt The ancient Japanese practice
on a date (then weep at the thought that will cause you to sweat profusely. of Seppuku, literally “stomach-
of your wasted youth). Call to mind In Vietnam’s humid climate, it cutting”, was once common practice
the music, the food, the ambience — shouldn’t take more than a few among disheartened samurai. While
what were the specific reasons you minutes for large, dark sweat-rings sliding a razor-sharp sword into
felt happy there? to start leaking from your armpits. your abdomen might seem like a
You’ll want to pick a spot that Around your neck, drape the fur of drastic measure to get out of a date,
is the exact opposite of that place. the most endangered animal you can it still beats nursing a watery glass
If your date is lactose-intolerant, a find. Flaunt your stretch marks. of ca phe da at 2am.

Locals
DON’T: Take
pictures with
flowers, or
of flowers on
their own.
Animals
This is the
Vietnamese DON’T: Take pictures with slave
lady equiva- animals. Yes, the elephant pics are
lent of those almost as bad.
drugged
tiger pic-
tures every-
one hates,
and it’s your
best clue
DO: “I am your nerdy to stay far
colleague in the day and away. What
your best drinking buddy at is this, a
night.” We only wanted fifth-grade
to know two things, and Valentine’s
these are both of them. card?
Travellers people we haven’t people. No, you can’t

already met yet (and bring them on our
DON’T: Have a long are fated to meet date.
list of cities you’ve again and again). But
travelled through. don’t be one of those DO: Have friends
That only means people we hate. We in common. Neither
that you’ve probably will know. of us are probably
slept with two creeps, yay!
people per city, and DO: Meet us halfway.
that’s f****** gross. Eventually, Tinder Appearances
dates can be like
DO: Tell us if you’re pulling teeth. “Want DON’T: State racial
travelling. Showing to check this place preferences. Just keep
travellers awesome out, I hear it has a your misanthropic
stuff they’d never nice happy hour” tendencies bottled
find on their own is gets lame when it’s up inside as you
fun and makes them really the cheap calmly swipe left.
more likely to kiss place you go to
us. Until about the in order to hide DO: State your height.
10th time, then we potentially awkward One of our friends
basically feel like a situations from your once went on a date DO: Take pictures with dogs wearing
sex tour guide. friends. If you want (wearing heels) with
to dispel a little a guy who was about neckerchiefs. Listen, if there’s
Expats weirdness, find a her height. Right at
cool hangout you’re the start, he said, one thing which dog people and
DON’T: Like crappy both comfortable “You’re much taller
stuff. We know that with. than I thought” — cat people can agree on, it’s that
our expat scenes and she said, “You’re
are villages — we Friends much shorter than I dogs with tasteful accessories
complain about it thought!” The date
often enough. And DON’T: Have shots didn’t get much are just the best.
it’s awesome to meet of you and a million better.

Tinder Do’s and Don’ts
The times they are a-changin’, and Ed Weinberg has figured out some tricks to look for
love on Vietnam’s favourite dating app. Female perspective by Sandee Woodside
Cats
DO: Post a picture of
a cat head on your sexy
body. #catwang.
DON’T: Post a picture of

a kitten wearing a tiara.
Selfies your phone in the

bathroom mirror?
DON’T: Put up blurry DO: Show your
selfies. Is this your idea incandescent smile
of a party picture? brightening up a
Getting drunk cigarette break. You’re
and mishandling so pretty.

between irony
and just doing
something we’ve
Sports
seen a million
times. DON’T: Show yoga
Self-Esteem pictures taken from
Sex DON’T: Give the
‘No-one can tell you
behind. We know you’re
what you are worth spiritual but until you
DO: Post tasteful shots that show us except for yourself’
self-description. And do contortionist s***
you have a nice bod. Hello. what exactly are
you telling yourself? we’re not interested.
That you need to tell
smiling strangers
that they shouldn’t
demean you?
DO: Have some

written description
involving sarcasm
and science. We like
people that can
laugh at themselves,
and probably
subscribe to Nihilist
Arby’s.
Intelligence
DON’T: Use clip art
of a broken heart on a
cheek, while pouting.
DO: Show tattoos that

say existential things
in foreign languages.
Quirkiness DON’T: Show that

DON’T: Say ‘warrior 2’ pose you’re
“Nothing about me”
or “Normal” in the doing in front of Machu
self-description.
Picchu.
DO: Say “Work like a
geek, play like a freak.”
Is this a meme? We Romantic able to capture that
like it. It’s got two Possibilities heart stopping first
of our favourite impression, and
words in there, DON’T: Pictures of make it go on and on.
and it rhymes. You weddings are kind of
DON’T: Talk about sex in loud ways. probably have style. weird. Do you go to Platonic Ideals
weddings often? Do
Everyone likes sex, but you’re just Excitement you want to have a DON’T: Say you’re
wedding soon? Is “just looking for
looking for attention. DON’T: Jump in the attending weddings friends.” Didn’t
air with your feet pulled one of your hobbies? you make enough
up and your head held friends by randomly
Duckface never have with peace signs. No, you’re not backwards, carried away DO: Blown out requesting people
signs. Only if you want being ironic. by the awesome beach background framing over Facebook?
DON’T: Duckface. to give us a quick tip or mountain you’re you biting your lip. A
that you are terrible. DO: Make the “ok” standing in front of. We Tinder impression DO: Be honest about
DO: Puff your cheeks hand gesture. It’s a want to know you’re has advantages and your boundaries.
out around a duckface Peace Signs little bit cleverer fun — but whoa, calm disadvantages, and Boundaries are fine
smile, bracketing all that than the peace sign. down. one of its advantages as long as you’re not
will be wrong with the DON’T: Be a You have reached over real first defensive about them.
children we hope you Westerner doing peace the tipping point DO: Laugh. impressions is being “I mean no disrespect

Fetishes Clip Art
DO: Post Cosplay photos. DON’T: Use clip art of a heart dug
into beach sand, with a wave rolling
over it, and a flower inside of it.
but please swipe left

if you’re expecting DON’T: Post
sex after a few lines
of text” is about as pictures of
good as it gets in DO: Use cute little stickers on your
this category, and you licking
we might still think whimsical photos. Sometimes.
you’re negging us. someone’s foot.
Heartfelt Foot fetishes
Statements
are fine, but
DON’T: Say
“Even I’m going we’re not sure I’m selfish, impatient, and a
with pain I don’t
care, I’ll fight and we want to little insecure. I make mistakes,
stand up with my
freedom, peace and kiss you now. I’m out of control, and at times
confident.” TMI. hard to handle. But if you can’t
handle me at my worst, then
DON’T: Say that Marilyn Monroe you sure as hell don’t deserve
quote. Just one question: Are you me at my best.
Marilyn Monroe? Really, are you?

How to Land a Lad
On the streets of Saigon’s backpacker area,
Ed Weinberg and Francis Xavier ask about
seduction techniques and learn some
of the best tricks that people drinking
Theresa, 51, Wales beers at 4pm can muster
“Oh, I’m good at maths.”
John, 25, Manchester, UK Cory, 27, Queensland, Australia Michael, 27, Ghana
“I think I just chat s*** to them “I keep touching girls “Smile. When I look at you and I smile,
for a while, and if they’re cool I inappropriately until I find a girl and you smile back at me then it’s ok.”
eventually... yea I don’t know. I’m who has Daddy issues.”
not sure. Are you recording this
b*******?”
Stef, 26, Australia

“I think that after you work out that
Francis, 24, Ho Chi Minh City they’re cute, and that they actually have
Lutz, 23, Germany “I show them my tattoos.” a good conversation, then you kind of
“I’m honest about what I feel, what just pay a lot of interest to them, and
I think, what I’m passionate about. most guys like girls being nice to them.
No tricking around.” But I’m not the flirty girl, so if I like them
I just tell them and see what happens.”
Thanh, 28, Gia Lai Province

“I like office man.”
Lassi, 35, Finland
“It’s such a long time ago that
I don’t actually remember. You
should ask my wife.” Thao, 21, Quang Tri Province
“If the right one comes next to me, I
smile at him and I talk with him.”
Isaac, 30, Uganda

“Wow, it’s complicated. It’s too
complicated but... I don’t how to explain.
Zam, 45, Kerala, India Sometimes it just happens, it’s normal.
“I pay for them. I make them feel Maybe you just entered somewhere,
like they’re comfortable with me. I entered the bar, and you feel like eye Thang, 20, Ho Chi Minh City
find a simple smile makes them feel contact. And you feel like — oh, she’s hot. “I don’t know, because I can’t think
better.” And you go over there and talk to her.” about that. I’ve never liked a girl.”

/ Bag a Babe
Claudia, 32, Lisbon, Portugal Marc, 29, Melbourne, Australia
“Well actually, love is kind of a fate Duy, 34, Mekong Delta “Aw dude, I’m so bad at picking up
thing. You can force no one to like “The one I like? I like everything.” chicks. I normally will just sit there
you. And if you eventually turn until they come over to me, and then
yourself into someone you’re not, I’m like, ‘Ok, I can do this now.’”
sooner or later that will fall off and
everything will be exposed.”
Lucy, 27, Nottingham, UK Lan, 29, Hanoi

“Talk about sex as soon as possible. “I have married already. But before I
Share sex stories, drug-related sex meet my husband we laughing and
Katalina, 21, Toronto, Canada stories as well. They’re always ones waiting, and become tied together.”
“If I really like him then I run away.” that are good to go down.”
Mia, 21, Montréal, Canada

Natalia, 19, Oxfordshire, UK “Laugh at everything, touch their
“Just the classic flutter-the-eyelids, hands. Want some chips?”
push-up-the-boobs kind of trick.” Alex, 21, Virginia, US
“You show them the best part of you,
the part that is most likely to attract
them. If you think about your self traits,
like if you’re really funny, or if you’re
really patient and understanding, show
that to them. If you’re really funny and
you’re just going up to talk to them,
then tell them a joke or something.”
Alex, 20, Montréal, Canada
“I buy them a beer. I say, ‘Want to
Vi, 29, Ho Chi Minh City drink something?’”
“There are always guys hitting on
me, so I never have to do anything.”
Fiona, 35, New York City, US

“Well there’s always the physical
aspect of it, of course. But my eyes, Moctar, 22, Tokyo, Japan
my eyes do the talking. I read eyes. “I will go up to her and just talk —
Moto Taxi, “Too old”, Ho Chi Minh City I look into the person’s eyes, and if what should I say? Ok, ‘Hi.’ Oh yea. I
“Buy some?” they say something back to me...” always get stuck in the friend zone.”

Messy Break-Ups
When cross-cultural marriages fall apart, in Vietnam the whole world
seems to know about it. Words by Nick Ross. Photo by Kyle Phanroy
D
Communicate, My Friend
ave (name changed)
doesn’t live in Vietnam The biggest challenge when you
The simple fact, says Michael, is
you must learn to communicate. “In the
any more. He was lucky.
Not because this fine
go cross-cultural is language, or
so says Singaporean social work
A lack of communication and bad
listening are the two other key
UK, you
country treated him with contempt consultant and university professor, causes of friction. assume
or disdain. Far from it. But if he
had stayed he would have lost his
Michael Ong.
The owner of Tea Talk, a Cau
“[Friction] can start from very
minor or even trivial issues,” he people will
marriage. With two young kids
playing at being toddlers and a
Giay-located café in Hanoi that
offers free formal and informal
explains. “We hold assumptions
based on our cultural context. So
queue, in
business started and run together
with his wife, the break-up would
counseling to both Vietnamese and
foreigners, Michael also wrote the
in cross-cultural marriages, such
assumptions should be clarified.”
Vietnam
have been messy. country’s university curriculum for We expect people to behave in you
Moving to the UK took his
wife away from the annual Tet
social work.
“Both [partners] may be equally
certain ways based on our cultural
background. In the UK, you assume
don’t. In
moratorium on gambling. In the first
year she lost VND600 million at tien
proficient in the language, e.g.
English, but languages are socially
people will queue, in Vietnam
you don’t. In Vietnam, babies are
Vietnam,
len, a popular card game. 12 months constructed,” he explains. “As such, the realm of women. Men don’t babies are
later she gambled away the couple’s
apartment. So, after some messy,
the same word use may have a very
different meaning considering the
get involved — they’re not even
supposed to change nappies. In the
the realm
tearful nights out on the booze,
Mike chose make or break. He went
context of each person’s culture and
upbringing.”
West, men are expected to take an
equal role.
of women.
back to the country of his birth, wife As we talk, an example comes The problem, adds Michael, is Men
and kids in tow. Two years later the
couple are selling their business
up — the English phrase ‘such a
shame’.
that if these “assumptions” are not
dealt with, or are “kept under the don’t get
in Vietnam to make the move
permanent.
There are two words for shame
in Vietnamese — nhuc, which is
carpet”, then they can grow into
“unmanageable ‘fights’ and ‘huge
involved
Brian (name also changed) wasn’t connected to the word dia nhuc, blow ups’ that result in breakups.” — they’re
so lucky. Not only did he lose his
house, he lost his family. His better
which means hell (or more literally,
the place of shame). Holding it Together not even
or perhaps more spendthrift half
had a gambling problem. She card-
The other word is xau ho, which
means anything from shy to
We don’t know the full story. But
my guess is that there was a huge
supposed
gamed away the house the couple embarrassed. It’s the kind of word communication issue between to change
had worked so hard for. When they
split, Brian took the elder son to live
you say about a shy child, or about
someone who has done something a
Brian and his wife. Despite the
losing-the-house disaster, they nappies. In
with him in Saigon. His ex took the
younger boy to the countryside.
little bit silly and feels embarrassed
about it. It’s a light version, a very
could have kept both the marriage
and the family together. They
the West,
Father and son finally reunited light version of the word ashamed. didn’t. men are
a year later, but they couldn’t
communicate. The boy could only
So, translate ‘such a shame’
directly into Vietnamese, and you
Dave, however, got it right.
He didn’t seek out counseling — expected
speak Vietnamese. In his time in this
country, Canadian-born Brian had
just don’t get the right meaning.
‘What a pity’, however, which
that’s not his way — but on those
drunken nights out after his wife’s
to take an
picked up only a few words of the has the same meaning as ‘such a misdemeanours he poured out his equal role”
lingo. shame’, translates directly — rat tiec heart. His friends gave him advice
There are many stories like these or toi nghiep. Use this phrase and and he listened.
floating around Vietnam, but rarely everyone will understand perfectly. “For the sake of your kids,”
do you hear both sides. If you’re In cross-cultural marriages, said one, “try and keep the family
a foreigner, you will know of the misunderstandings due to language together. If you move to the UK and
pain Dave and Brian went through are a frequent cause of friction. it still doesn’t work, then at least
as their wives brought on disaster. you can walk away knowing that
You will hear about how terrible The Cultural Angle you tried.”
the Vietnamese wife is, about all the Another key issue, says Michael, Added another: “You need to
horrendous things she did in the is behaviour. Social behaviour try and forgive. She knows she’s
name of money. peculiar to each culture. In Vietnam, screwed up. But if you constantly
If you’re Vietnamese, you will for example, care and concern can hold that against her, then it will
hear about the personality of often come across to Westerners as affect your relationship.”
Dave and Brian, how difficult or ‘mothering’. Says Michael, the only
stubborn or arrogant they are, their “I counseled a Westerner on the way to make a cross-cultural
obsessions, their possessiveness, verge of breaking up with his Asian relationship work is through good
their jealousy. You will hear about girlfriend,” he recalls. “She was communication, to find a way to
their stinginess with money and ‘mothering’ him, asking him to eat, overcome all the differences created
their lack of compassion for the go wash his hands and so on. At by culture.
wife’s family. one point he got mad with her. He This means you need to “clarify,
But never will you hear both sides. came to me for some help. I framed clarify and clarify. Don’t make
They don’t communicate. the ‘mothering’ behaviour in the assumptions when communicating.
Relationships and marriage are context of the family situation of You should have good listening
difficult. You have to work at them. the Asian girlfriend. That was her skills. Ask ‘What do you mean?’
But when they are cross-cultural, ‘love language’. The couple is now when you don’t understand. Seek
they are doubly so. happily married.” to understand and be understood.”

Food and Drink
Faced with a tough choice,

and four times the
recommended daily
allowance of meats,
Owen Salisbury grits
and grinds through
the best taco options
this city has to offer.
Photos by Kyle Phanroy
E
ven as I type this, I’m eating a
burrito. Kind of sad, isn’t it?
Less than a week after a 10-hour
marathon of gorging through the
best carnitas, nachos, huevos and tacos Ho
Chi Minh City has to offer, and I’m back at
the trough.
But why not? I am from California,
and I’m pretty sure we invented Mexican
food, as well as the internet, Hollywood
and pomposity. (Actually, we had three
Californios on this trip. You can’t escape us.)
Here’s the thing you should know about
Mexican food — and sorry editor Nick,
Americans are convinced we know The
Truth about it — it comes in varieties. How
can one pick the best when every place
has its own way, its own history, its own
culinary signature?
By eating our guts out is one honest answer.
The more honest answer is that — to be
honest — we can’t.
Still, let us try. Let us intrepid five — Ed,
our deputy editor; Natalia, the Latina in the
mix; Kyle, photo editor and brother of the
guy behind the now-part-of-Saigon-folklore
Gringos; Amber, our friend along for the
ride; and me — guide you through the
nascent world of Vietnamese-Mexican food,
comprising four restaurants, each vying to
outdo each other in fish tacos, nachos and
assorted other gooditas.
We began the day at Khoi Thom, easily
the most beautiful spot, travelled through
rain and thunder to La Fiesta, detoured
through an American craft whiskey festival,
dined by riverside at The Boathouse and
ended — appropriately — at Zombie BBQ,
which took exquisite care of our bloated
bellies and empty brains.
Our thanks go out to each of the
restaurants involved for feeding us
just enough to not slay us through
overindulgence.
Each of us had our favourites, our pet
dishes. We hashed out disputes, bickered
over authenticity and sampled extensively.
This series of mini-reports should give you
not only the substance, but the — excuse the
pun — flavour of the best Mexican feast this
city’s ever seen.

The Best Overall
I’d thought of doing this chronologically, rancheros — a mountain of beans, cheese
but what the hell, let’s start with the best. and chorizo topped by two perfectly
The winner is Tex-Mex joint La Fiesta, cooked eggs — as one of the three best
heart-and-soul-child of Scott and Duc dishes of the night. I picked it as first, to be
Marquis of District 7 mainstay Scott and honest, but the ultra-high levels of insulin
Binh’s — who want me to assure you that hit later may have prejudiced me in the
that everything on the menu can be made slightest. Endurance eating — not for the
vegetarian. With its spartan décor of weak of pancreas.
painted luchador masks on the wall, and Many of us also chose the molé, though
animated by Scott’s own warm liveliness, as Natalia commented, “I wish there had
we ate simply sublime huevos rancheros, been more chocolate.”
nachos that divided us (were the chips too “I feel a little guilty for how much we all
thick? Opinions differ) and fish tacos that loved the corn,” said Amber, daring to meet
Ed will tell you about. my challenge to be witty.
Every judge save one picked the huevos Pro tip: Try La Fiesta’s Mexican Street Corn.
eat & drink hcmc
The Best Mexican Food

in Saigon
La Fiesta’s fish tacos

The Beauty Spot
Another area of surprising unanimity was in grease in the experience. Health nuts, that’s
best, most beautiful atmosphere: Khoi Thom, for you: the most beautiful spot is also the
whose peaceful outdoor seating caused most Fresh-Mex, emphasizing veggies over
us to make the tactical mistake of eating cheesy, meaty weightiness.
everything offered at this, our first stop. I can Be warned, though: as Natalia said, “I was
highly recommend the chicken fajitas. missing more of the spiciness,” commenting
“The fajitas hit everything right,” I quote that too many restaurants cater to Euro-
myself. Frankly, though, I wish they’d go American wimpiness in that arena.
more authentic with the tortillas and chips, Pro tip: Plan your next six-margarita lunch
and several — Kyle — wished for more here, and pass out in their beautiful garden.
Khoi Thom’s fish tacos

“How can one pick the best when
every place has its own way,
its own history, its own culinary
signature? By eating our guts out
is one honest answer”

The Boat House’s carnitas nachos

The Dark Horse
A surprising contender for best food was This was in response to Ed commenting that
District 2’s The Boat House, where new he could drink the chipotle sauce from “the
managers Jeff and Maggie plied us with pump”. So... yeah, that echoed our state of
food in a sly attempt to discombobulate rival mind pretty well.
Zombie BBQ. For me, the carne asada tacos were a
As Amber said, “These are the nachos gift from home, where — by the time you
we’ve been waiting for,” when presented read this — I’ll be gorging myself again on
with their mountainous pile of carnitas- authentic Cali-Mex carne asada everything.
topped nachos and trays of salsa, sour cream Pro tip: Don’t let mosquitos eat you — you’re
and guacamole. the apex predator here, dammit.

The Final Resting Spot
“Ok, Word Magazine post-mortem,” Ed said. cooking meat chemically, a bit of science
“Day of the Dead has arrived.” trickery I frankly love, along with raw meat.
Zombie BBQ — already reviewed in this To be brutally honest, we were all pretty
magazine for its BBQ — serves up some burnt by this point, arriving in the rain
mean Mexican food, delighting us with at nearly 10pm, and staggering out into
dishes no one else attempted as well as with another, later rain like — yes, I’m going for
genuine Mexican Jarritos fruit soda, and was it — zombies.
the only place that provided wet-naps. Pro tip: Try the house-made, hibiscus-infused
We also got an excellent ceviche and a Patron tequila — or the tiki bar when it opens
Vera Cruz shrimp cocktail, both ways of soon.

The Unexpected, or “Holy S***, most variety and the most food for your
They Have Liquid Cheese in dong. Get thee out, and try ‘em all.
Vietnam?” If that sound like a cop-out, ya got me. I
I just want to say that finding that Zombie like food. Hell, I love it. The way it looks,
BBQ serves nachos with liquid cheese smells, tastes, the creative things chefs do to
brought tears of patriotic fervor to my delight us with this most transient of arts.
eyes, as a bald-eagle screamed and an F-22 I like writing about it, taking pictures of it,
nuked Nazi-terrorists. cooking it, eating it. I want more Mexican
“They’re like something I’d expect to food in this city, more and better, because that
find at a baseball game,” said Kyle, and I fills the hole in my soul left by the absence of
fist-pumped in agreement. Super Taqueria’s carne asada burritos.
So let us know, readers. What’s your best
In Sum Mexican food in the city?
I keep coming back to the variety of The Word sincerely thanks Khoi Thom, La
opinion expressed (and how stupid I Fiesta, The Boathouse, Zombie BBQ, Zoom Café
sound in audio recordings) and so my final and Robert Nussbaum for their hospitality, and
words to you are these: the best Mexican apologises for any hurt feelings the mild snark
food in the city is where you feel best, may cause. I’ll eat at all of your restaurants
where things taste best, where you get the again, I promise
Zombie BBQ’s ceviche and Vera Cruz shrimp cocktail

Day of the Nacho “I just want to say
Nachos, first invented in 1943 by a dude that finding that
named Nacho — I swear this is true, and
that Oct. 21 is the International Day of the
Zombie BBQ serves
Nacho — formed an integral part of our nachos with liquid
quest to find the best Mexican food this
very un-Mexican city has to offer. cheese brought tears
Each restaurant threw down with their
version of the dish. One of the things that
of patriotic fervor to
makes nachos so great, of course, is my eyes, as a bald-
their versatility, and we saw our share.
This is another one of those cop-outs, but eagle screamed and
— as with nachos themselves, there are
no rules for nacho roundups.
an F-22 nuked Nazi-
terrorists. ‘They’re like
T he B est
We staggered to T he B oathouse ’ s something I’d expect
table, and within minutes, owner Jeff had
deposited a pile of nachos so huge I
to find at a baseball
could barely see over them.
“It’s huge,” Amber said from behind the
game,’ said Kyle,
pile of carnitas, sliced peppers and ooey and I fist-pumped in
gooey cheese.
Despite being full, we kept coming
agreement”
back to the fully homemade goodness,
and that power is what earned them this
spot. barbecued beef liberally mixed in with the
chips and beans, mouth-watering chunks
T he H ealthiest that slightly clashed with the downmarket
This may be unfair, but K hoi T hom ’ s appeal of their fast food chic.
nachos were as airy and green as their
outdoor seating... especially given their T he C ontroversial O nes
relative lack of cheese and chicken. If Every band has its badboy. L a F iesta ’ s
you like nachos, but don’t like triple- nachos fill that role. Me? I love ‘em.
bypass surgery, these are the nachos Others... not so much. The chips are
for you. house-made, thick and crunchy as hell,
But let’s be honest. We don’t eat and the nacho-pile is a mixture of like
Mexican food for our health. 18 different ingredients — not exactly
the limpid simplicity some expect. The
T he M ost A merican resultant tower split the difference between
I may be US-centric, a little, but I was the other restaurants — not as healthy
honestly delighted by the appearance as Khoi Thom’s, but more so than the
of Z ombie BBQ’ s liquid, petroleum- others; not as oddly compelling as The
byproduct 7-11 cheese, which I haven’t Boathouse’s, yet still with its fans; not as
eaten since my last visit to Taco Bell. American as Zombie’s, but the only ones
What was also American was the made Tex-Mex style.
La Fiesta’s nachos
Best Mex
We had our pets, but through dint of
clever bargaining and horse-trading,
managed to cobble together a list of the
best dishes. Each of us picked three,
and I recalled elementary maths to score
them and average them.
#1: L a F iesta ’ s huevos rancheros

(available in vegetarian! For some
unknown reason!).
My comment: holy s***.
Others’ comments: far more eloquent,
sadly unrecorded.
#2: Z ombie BBQ’ s ceviche .

My comment: if the parrotfish were any
fresher, it would bite you with its lippy,
corral-eating jaws.
Others’ comments: “Spoiler: that was
my favourite dish of the day,” said Ed
in the Zombie post-mortem.

The Best Fish Tacos in HCMC The Boat House’s blackened mahi-mahi tacos
Fishes were first taco’d in northern Mexico,

before gaining notoriety as a southern
California classic, in their battered and
corn tortilla-wrapped form. From there, they
travelled up the coast to the San Francisco
Bay Area, where I first encountered them
in a cute shop with a whittled wooden fish
attached to the bathroom key. It’s been love
ever since.
Out here, they have the whitefish, but
do they have the moves? The fish-savvy
amongst us decided to find out.
Below are the results.
#1: T he B oathouse ’ s blackened mahi -

mahi tacos . These tangy numbers cut
through our malaise with their freshness, and
the consistency differential brought by the
hard shell. Although not playing by the same
rules as the rest of the competitors — they
were grilled rather than battered — they take
first place on the back of Grade A whitefish
and no fuss.
#2: Z oom C afé . Although price points

weren’t a main consideration here, Zoom’s
awesome Fish Taco Tuesday promo
— three tacos for VND60,000 — must be Other Creatures of the Deep
recognised. Add that to the overall balance
of ingredients and the flavour of the fish and Gaining some buzz lately are the duck
you’ve got a winner. Although, as tester Jon tacos that Calvin Godfrey first wrote about
said, “For my mouth I want a bit more zing.” on Medium — an outrageously savoury
meeting of streetside rotisserie duck and
#3: L a F iesta . The fish tacos at La Fiesta just-made-that-day corn tortillas from
were traditional, we all agreed, but some S aigon T acos . Taco mastermind Robert
were left unimpressed. Kyle offered a Nussbaum met me in an obscure part of
defense of their perceived lack of flavour: “It’s the District 2 roadmap, an inconspicuous
a pretty light dish. You’re not supposed to eat location at 554 Nguyen Thi Dinh with vit on
one, you’re supposed to eat five.” the signboard.
But on the flip side, Kyle took issue with the We ordered a herbaceous half-duck for
one untraditional factor. “While the breading VND250,000, which came with a beautifully
had crispiness, I don’t know if it was the right salty-sweet hoisin variant, a ramekin of
La Fiesta’s huevos rancheros
kind of breading. That was more like the kind Saigon Tacos’ proprietary salsa roja,
of breading you do on chicken than one you diced salsa veggies and eight steaming
do on fish.” tortillas. We folded them up and dug in.
And guess what? It was heaven. Those
#4: K hoi T hom . Packed with mango salsa meats. Those tacos. Those accoutrements.
and super-fresh fish, Khoi Thom’s offering It would have taken top slot in our best
#3: a tie, between K hoi T hom ’ s was its Fresh-Mex style in a nutshell. The Mexican tasting, I’m pretty sure.
chicken fajitas and Z ombie BBQ’ s flavour balance was interesting, but the corn The combination was outrageous, a
gator tacos . tortilla was sorely missed. And, as Kyle said, rolling flavourball of sweet, spice, duck,
My comments: first, the chicken was “the signature taste of fish tacos comes from corn, fresh veg and crisp cucumber, from
perfectly cooked. Second, I like eating the corn tortilla”. first bite to last. Yes, I’m fully aware I used
things that want to eat me (screw you, “But,” he pondered, thinking of the flavour the word ‘outrageous’ twice in the last four
beef, you’re just not macho enough). possibilities, “at the same time, the corn might paragraphs. But I got saliva all over my
Others’ comments: “The meat was just have clashed with the mango salsa. The flour thesaurus, so that’ll have to do.
perfectly cooked,” said Natalia. “The is more of a neutral flavour.” Also falling into this category of fantastic
meat had weird bones in it,” said Kyle. Also worth noting is that this tasting was and overlooked sea dwellers are the grilled
You figure out which they’re referring to. the first dangerous step towards Natalia’s octopus fajitas at K hoi T hom . Besides
eventual salad rant. for requesting nachos and tacos from
H onorable mention : T he B oat each of the restos on our list we left it to
H ouse ’ s carnitas nachos that #5: T he B oathouse ’ s breaded fish their discretion, and this niche item got
everyone kept coming back to, despite tacos . Boathouse’s grilled prizewinners lost in the shuffle. Which wasn’t a bad
near-terminal pain in our bellies. When stood diametrically opposed to the bet on our vanilla preferences, as Khoi
you’re already that full, and are served restaurant’s other, more traditional fish Thom’s chicken fajitas ranked pretty high
a pile of meat and cheese that you can’t taco offering. Wrapped in wax paper and on our overall score sheet. But, speaking
stay away from, the cooks are doing giant-sized tortilla, this one overwhelmed us from personal preference, these squeaky
something right/horribly, horribly wrong to with sauce, lettuce... “and cheese?” asked morsels would have bested any dish
your arteries. Natalia. “No.” except the duck. — Ed Weinberg

Food and Drink
MYSTERY DINER hanoi
La Badiane
Our masked gourmand ventures into one Vietnam’s consensus best
spots to see what’s up. Photos by Trung Del
W
hen it comes to Thus, with our stomachs rumbling This relaxed outdoor setting —
finding French food in and expectations riding high, we ideal for al fresco summer lunches,
Vietnam, the choices decided there was no better time to by the way — also allows you to
are aplenty. In Hanoi pay a visit. get a whiff of the fragrant aromas
especially, French cuisine can emanating from the stainless steel
also be found branching off into Down the Rabbit Hole kitchen, where white-clad sous
delicious fusion varieties that can be Just steps from Quan An Ngon chefs put the final touches on exotic
found all over the city. and tucked into the side alley of looking fare.
Opened by French friends Minh Nam Ngu, La Badiane is housed in
Spielmann, Benjamin Rascalou a grand villa. The glowing white All Class
and Anthony Balenci in 2008, facade makes for a striking contrast First impressions are all positive,
La Badiane has since become a from the bustling pho ga stalls and and very classy. Inside, we’re seated
staple of Hanoi’s top-end dining packed shophouses on either side. on the upper floor; a luxuriously
circuit. Indeed, its elegant interiors The décor exudes the kind of decorated room of burgundy table
and innovative take on French casual elegance you’d expect from clothes and vivid art works that
gastronomy have made it one of a top-end French establishment. create a nice, warm ambience.
Vietnam’s most respected eateries. Outside, the stone walkway flows Menus are promptly delivered
Named in the Miele Guide’s past painted French shutters and and the friendly waiters respond
Top 500 Restaurants in Asia, La white archways into a leafy open- confidently to questions about the
Badiane was also named in our air patio, the occasional artwork restaurant’s specialties.
very own Word Magazine top 10 list making for a pleasant splash of As we sip on glasses of the house
of the best restaurants in Hanoi. colour. rosé (VND120,000), we sink into our

THE VERDICT
14
Food
14
Service
13
Décor
Food, Decor and

comfy chairs and steal glances at The lamb shank is perfectly already full from the generous Service are each
the food on the surrounding tables. cooked and collapses at the first portions, but we soldier on. rated on a scale
Before long, our entrée arrives, a nudge of my fork. Whilst I’m The banana nem (VND245,000), of 0 to 15.
divine-tasting grilled eggplant and normally accustomed to getting a cute collection of fragrant and 13 — 15
silky goats cheese rolled in Italian lamb shank that’s still on the sticky banana spring rolls, come
extraordinary to
Parma ham, pesto and balsamic bone, I’m instantly won over drizzled with a heavenly hazelnut-
sauce (VND265,000). by the neatly organised piles of and-pistachio salted caramel sauce. perfection
Across the table, my companion succulent braised lamb soaking in The apple and strawberry crumble 10 — 12.5 very
savours each mouthful of the the “spiced lamb liquorice juice” is also a knockout, accompanied by good to excellent
salmon tartar (VND265,000), and misted with an aromatic basil a scoop of tangy lemon sorbet and 8 — 9.5 good to
seasoned with herbs and dry perfume. The pumpkin salad a sweet balsamic glaze. Yum. very good
fruits and accompanied by a thick and feta cheese add an extra From start to finish, La Badiane 5 — 7.5 fair to
goat cheese sauce, arugula and layer of decadence to the already is all class. The excellent service, good
soy sprouts that help balance the sumptuous meat, resulting in pure fantastic food and the chic
richness. gastronomic bliss. surroundings make it a pleasant
0 — 4.5 poor
As soon as our forks hit the table, Across the table, the beef place to relax in the heart of the to fair
our plates are promptly whisked tenderloin has disappeared, each city. But while the prices are a little
away and replaced with our main forkful of steak accompanied bit more than the average meal, The Word reviews
meals, a stunning looking mille- by a generous dollop of pea it’s the perfect place to splurge on anonymously and
feuille lamb shank (VND595,000) mousseline and smothered in rich those special occasions. pays for all meals
for me and the Australian grilled five-pepper sauce. La Badiane is located at 10 Nam
beef tenderloin for my date. By the time dessert arrives, we’re Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Food and Drink
Street Snacker hanoi
Kem Caramen Hang Than

As the weather heats up, Huyen Tran offers her favourite summertime treat for your
inspection, Hanoi’s best crème caramel. Photos by Harris Spencer
B
y now the heat has gotten irritating. this: “We opened this shop in 1995, which The look of the plate of custard isn’t the
We can actually feel the sweat means it is 20 years old this year. We are only stunning thing here — with a smooth
drip down our back and legs even confident that our caramel is no less delicious and shining, coffee-coloured layer of topping,
standing in the shade. But come than any hotel’s in Hanoi, because many hotels bathed in tan caramel. Once you take a scoop
evening, the day relaxes, and people start order our dessert!” She wouldn’t say how of the luscious, bouncy custard, you’ll be
losing that pained look. And this is also the they came up with the idea of making this compelled to take another, and then many
time of day when young Hanoians rush out of French dessert in Hanoi, localising it with local other scoops. You might want to come here
house, and head for drink or dessert shops to ingredients and a soft caramel top. between diets.
get the best refreshment they can imagine. “A challenging life forces people to be This “hard-to-resist” caramel is the main
Hang Than Street is a gathering place creative in coming up with ideas of how to chorus in a variety of dessert selections. They
that has been popular with Hanoi’s young earn a living,” she went on. “In our case, we also mix their caramel with other options —
demographic for years. The area houses many used to be merchants selling different things for instance, caramel with fruits, caramel with
dessert shops, amongst which Kem Caramen at the market, until our siblings came up with jelly, caramel with fermented purple sticky
Duong Hoa, said to be one of the best in town, idea of making caramel and yoghurt. And rice. The homemade yoghourt and che xoai
and a must-try for travellers. we could have never thought at the time that also contribute to the popularity.
The eatery offers a wide selection of our shop would become the breadwinner It’s the throng of people that gathers
desserts, including crème caramel, homemade for the whole family.” Kem Caramen Duong in front of the Hang Than branch every
yoghurt, coconut jelly, mango sweet dessert Hoa now has three outlets — on Hang Than, afternoon and evening that convinced them
(che xoai), ice cream in coconut and homemade Nguyen Khac Nhu and Tran Tu Binh. to open the other two branches. But even
cakes. However, crème caramel — kem caramen People often say that when an eatery though the original shop is always packed
— is the signature food of this streetside eatery. enlarges or increases its business scale, the with diners, the feeling of enjoying their
This explains why “Kem Caramen” is written in quality goes down. But this eatery is an delicious crème caramel on tiny stools on
super-sized letters on their shop signage. exception. Their crème caramel has been the street, surrounded by the old French
Food blogger Mark Lowerson writes consistent in quality throughout the years, buildings and sometimes being rewarded
on stickyrice.typepad.com that the truncated and is still as irresistible as ever. “I think our with a slight breeze of summer sunset is the
cone of custard on the crème caramel had caramel is even more delicious than it was experience I always long for on summer
him rewriting his definitions of perfection. I in the past, because we did not ‘invent’ the nights.
couldn’t agree more. recipe of making crème caramel, we had to Kem Caramen Duong Hoa’s shops are located at
learn it from others. Therefore, we always 29 Hang Than, Ba Dinh; 33 Nguyen Khac Nhu,
A Tradition in the Making remind ourselves to improve it, and embrace Ba Dinh; and 101 C5 Tran Tu Binh, Cau Giay,
I sat with one of the owners, and she told me every customer recommendation.” Hanoi. The crème caramel goes for VND7,000

Food and Drink
MYSTERY DINER HCMC
La Plancha
Our undercover critic checks out a Thao
Dien institution. Photos by Nick Ross
F
rom the welcoming red halo tub chairs, La Plancha’s famously replacements do not detract too much
of its neon signage, we step enormous food and drinks menus are from the essence of the dish, we find
through La Plancha’s large placed before us. Being a restaurant La Plancha’s version to be slightly out
outdoor terrace to the coolness with a Spanish name — a traditional on its ratios. The beautifully baked
of its indoor dining room where our iron-plate method of cooking — a slab of cheese dominates just a few
reserved table awaits. A friendly French owner with a clear taste for lonely slices of potato, while a clutch
member of staff directs us to a spot wine and cheese, and a city-wide of chorizo hides in one corner.
just a metre or so from the bar. reputation for superb pizzas, you’d be
It’s not ideal, but we’ll follow hard-pressed not to find something Tough Decisions
their lead with this. When a cloud of you like here. The list is staggering. Despite my original plan to dive into
cigarette smoke billows over us from Starter options are dominated a crisp Mediterranean-style pizza,
a group of drinkers standing nearby, by salads, ranging from a Nicoise the extensive list of grilled meat and
we clock the fact that every single (VND135,000) to a tempting seafood catches me off-guard and is
table (inside and out) carries an chorizo and potato-based Iberica suddenly my priority. Fortunately
ashtray. Having just showered and (VND175,000). After a complex we’re able to chalk up a compromise
suited-up in our Saturday evening decision-making process we order — a round of tapas-style mini pizzas
finest, we decide that a table outside a Plancha-style tartiflette to share to fuel our culinary deliberations.
might be best — a request that is (VND145,000). This speciality And yes, their pizzas are very good.
quickly dealt with without fuss. from the Savoie border region of Offering Angus steaks, tiger
We suspect we’re not their first France traditionally blends smoky prawns, sea bass and duck (to name
guests to face such a predicament bacon lardons, fried onions and a few highlights), La Plancha is a
when we learn that a separate non- slices of potato, with deliciously carnivore’s dream. We opt for a
smoking extension to the main dining pungent Reblochon cheese. Chorizo salmon steak with rice (VND265,000)
room is due to open in early June. and a mellow Swiss cheese are and an ostrich steak with a red
As we settle into large rattan the substitutes here. While such wine sauce and French fries

THE VERDICT
11
Food
12
Service
10
Décor
(VND235,000). Cooked perfectly Their banana nem is easily the best Inside, the bright lights and
rare, the deep flavours of the ostrich I’ve eaten, the luxurious vanilla ice wide-open space make for a
riff nicely with the sweetness of the cream could give Haagen-whatever a slightly canteen-esque feel, yet it’s Food, Decor and
red wine reduction. With forkfuls of run for its money, and the chocolate relaxed and informal and suits the Service are each
fries to soak it all up, I’m a happy mousse is like a cocoa-lined cloud. restaurant’s family-friendly style. rated on a scale
customer. The salmon is a beaut too, Our favourite is the crème brûlée. By contrast, the outside space feels of 0 to 15.
expertly-grilled and served with a We end up locked in an intense a little too dark and laden with 13 — 15
zingy sauce to compliment the fresh, teaspoon duel over its crunchy shadows — a problem that would be
extraordinary to
clean flavour of the fish. golden shards and silky innards. easily reme-died with a candle or oil
If, by some strange reason, you lamp on each table. perfection
haven’t made a choice by the time A Family Night Out Having children’s cartoons on one 10 — 12.5 very
you reach this part of the menu, With Vietnamese dishes and side of the room, a smoky bar on the good to excellent
the pasta section should do the job. children’s meals also available, other and a mind-boggling array of 8 — 9.5 good to
For those with willpower to make choice seems to be the main draw at gourmet cuisine in between, this place very good
it there, the pizza list hides on the La Plancha. Catering for every taste, feels a little confused about what it 5 — 7.5 fair to
back page — last but certainly not it’s a clear favourite for the expat wants to be. Less may be more here.
good
least. Your choices roll upwards family crowd — who seem to have Overall, however, the numbers
from a fresh mozzarella Margarita descended en masse on the evening suggest it’s a winner. Dishing up
0 — 4.5 poor
(VND105,000) to a decadent of our visit. Kids bound through the hearty, comforting food cooked to to fair
camembert et miel (VND195,000). dining space, relaying between the exacting standards, La Plancha offers
Desserts are equally eclectic — a giant TV showing cartoons inside a taste of home, even for those of us The Word reviews
thoughtful taster-plate catches our and the painting station outside. For without French, Spanish or Italian anonymously and
eye (VND105,000). Mini versions those expecting a quiet, romantic heritage. pays for all meals
of four of La Plancha’s homemade dining experience, you may wish to La Plancha is at 25 Tran Ngoc Dien,
favourites arrive, looking exquisite. look elsewhere. Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC
Food and Drink
Street Snacker HCMC
Kem Dua Thai

This month, Natalia Martinez ventures away from typical street fare to sample the
Vietnamese turn on Thai coconut ice cream. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
L
iving in the hot weather of Ho Chi What Makes it Special? coconut milk doesn’t contain lactose, so eat all
Minh City might be overwhelming You may have never seen an ice cream quite you like without worrying about those pesky
for some, but look at it this way: at so customised, and you might find it weird at side effects.
least you have an excuse to enjoy first. But it’s a rich, cold treat that every sweet And now, the topping party is just about
refreshing ice cream any time of the year. tooth should sample. to start. Vendors make the dish even more
Ask Canadians if they can do such a thing Kem dua Thai differs from other ice creams enjoyable by adding roasted peanuts, kernels
on Christmas. for many reasons, starting with the way it is of boiled corn and sticky rice — which
Another perk of living in this part of the presented. The coconut ice cream is served presents a vibrant purple colour extracted
world is that you will be introduced to new in a Thai coconut shell. These tiny coconuts, from the magenta plant. Besides all that,
flavours and unique designs. And kem dua originally from Thailand, are grown in Ben you also get shavings of crispy, deep-fried
Thai is a perfect example. Tre province. coconut. Depending on the shop or stall,
This icy treat became popular in Up till this point, you’re probably finding you might find some other toppings such as
Thailand a long time ago, and recently this completely normal. Except for the fact pumpkin or palm fruit.
it made its way to Vietnam. Some shops that it’s made with coconut milk, which To complete this adorable masterpiece, a
have already been selling it for two years. contains the necessary fat to make ice cream. generous dollop of coconut cream is applied.
And even though this ice cream remains This will make your ice cream melt faster In addition to the ice cream, the coconut
a unique and hard-to-find treat, it has than the cow-milk kind, but it does more water extracted from the coconut bowl is
already reached the top of the Vietnamese than that. It affects the flavour, and the way served alongside, rounding off the experience.
foodie’s list. it’s digested. Take note, lactose intolerants: For coconut lovers this is definitely a must.
Our Go-To Spots

C a -R em K em X oi D ua B ui V ien K em X oi D ua C o G iang
241C Cach Mang Tang Tam, Q3, HCMC 106A Le Thi Rieng, Q1, HCMC 89 Co Giang, Q1, HCMC
5pm to 10pm 10am to 10pm 4pm to 10pm
VND30,000 VND28,000 VND19,000
This tiny and cosy establishment, which A veteran in the business, it offers a warm A modest food stall with many street
will double in size next June, opened last space open for long hours where you can find food options in case you want to get
October to the delight of icy treat fans. Here a few coconut ice cream variations, as well as more than dessert. There is a sad lack
you will find a richer coconut ice cream, other icy treats. This branch also has a stall at of flavour in the ice cream here, but a
which the owner makes using a special 103 Bui Vien, Q1, where you can find their ice notoriously large amount of toppings
machine brought from Thailand. Its product cream for a cheaper price (VND20,000) from served with it.
is served with boiled pumpkin strips. 6pm to 10pm.
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Travel
Bozzhyr Valley, one

of many of the quite
amazing landscapes in
Kazakhstan

travel international
10 Reasons to Visit
Kazakhstan
Tim Russell boldly went where few people
have gone on vacation — Kazakhstan
Photos in this article by Tim Russell

T
he immigration officer at behind Vietnam, you won’t get jetlag. And if flight to Aktau. “But when they know you,
Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport my experience is anything to go by, the flight they will take you to their hearts.”
stares blankly at my boarding pass will be mostly empty giving you plenty of He’s right.
for several seconds, before passing room to stretch out. You might initially be fooled into thinking
it onto a colleague. She too stares at it for the Kazakhs are a surly bunch, as they
some considerable time, before shaking You Can Visit Almaty resolutely refuse to return your increasingly
her head and returning it to him. He looks Kazakhstan’s former capital is a charming, manic smiles. But then something wonderful
up at me. compact city with a disorientatingly happens — the scowling old babushka on
“Where you go?” European feel — the tree-lined avenues, the train reaches into her bag and shares her
“Almaty.” baroque architecture, and snowcapped food with you, before inviting you to visit
“Where is… Almaty?” mountains are more reminiscent of Vienna her family when you get to Shymkent. The
“Kazakhstan.” or Zurich than an Asian city. Almaty is grim-faced train conductor happily poses
He looks at me, looks down at my booming, with luxury hotels, international for pictures with you, and asks you to show
boarding pass again, laughs, and stamps my restaurants and shopping malls springing your wife how handsome Kazakh men are.
passport, before wishing me good luck, as if up, yet it still retains a likeable small-town A random stranger presses a gift into your
he thinks I’ll need it. ambience. hand and then vanishes. A genuine, heartfelt
Such is Kazakhstan’s image problem. It As well as exploring the sights of the welcome from people not even close to being
hides in plain sight as the world’s ninth- city itself — the bustling Green Bazaar, the jaded or corrupted by tourism.
biggest country, and one of its least known: beautiful Zenkov Cathedral, the impressive
indeed, had it not been for Sacha Baron- Central Mosque — you can also ski, hike The Landscapes are Stunning
Cohen’s 2006 film Borat (not, it must be said, and bike in the surrounding mountains. Kazakhstan’s seismically turbulent geology
a particularly accurate portrayal of Kazakh And as the country’s main transport hub, has created a quite extraordinary landscape
life — the Kazakhstan scenes were filmed in it’s the starting point for plane, train and bus of towering mountains, huge canyons,
Romania, and the character speaks Polish), journeys to more remote areas. epic deserts and bizarre rock formations.
it’s doubtful that many of us would have Charyn Canyon, for example, a three-
heard of it at all. There Are No Tourists hour drive from Almaty, could easily pass
Even I, sitting on a mostly empty Air I spent eight days in the south of the country for the Grand Canyon’s slightly smaller
Astana flight to Almaty, had little idea of and only on my last day did I encounter brother, and it’s just one of several stunning
what awaited me when I arrived, other any other Western visitors. Kazakhstan gorges. And in Mangystau, a mostly
than thankfully inaccurate preconceptions apparently gets over 3 million tourists per deserted peninsula on the Caspian Sea,
about surly, possibly corrupt immigration year, but I have no idea when they come or you’ll find the Bozzhyr Valley, the Karagiye
officials, lashings of vodka and Ladas. Okay, where they go, as they were conspicuous Depression, and Kazakhstan’s own Uluru,
I was right about the Ladas, but otherwise by their absence. So while this means there Sherkala Mountain. All amazing sights
Kazakhstan surprised and delighted me is a lack of tourism infrastructure, which which, anywhere else in the world, would
by being completely different to what I can make seeing the country difficult — no be swarming with tourists. But here you’ll
expected. backpacker buses, no car and driver rental, be alone, experiencing the rare sensation
So here are ten good reasons why and a scarcity of English-speaking service of gazing out on a landscape that hasn’t
you should cast aside all thoughts of staff — it also means you’ll have most changed in millions of years.
moustachioed, mankini-wearing imbeciles, attractions to yourself, undisturbed by
and jump on a flight to Kazakhstan. hawkers, buses and other travellers. The Great Outdoors
In fact, so rare are tourists that, when With few towns and cities and such
You Can Fly Direct from Hanoi or my group arrived in Mangystau, we were beautiful landscapes, Kazakhstan is
Ho Chi Minh City greeted by most of the local village, given a definitely an outdoor country. Without
Yes, unlikely though it may seem, twice huge feast, and even photographed by the leaving the environs of Almaty you can ski
a week there’s a direct flight from Ho local newspapers. at Shymbulak (in the running for the 2022
Chi Minh City and Hanoi to Almaty, Winter Olympics), go biking in the Tien Shan
Kazakhstan’s former capital (it was replaced The People Are Lovely mountains, or hike, horseride or quadbike
by Astana in 1997). It’s a seven-hour flight, “Kazakhstan people never smile,” says the through Charyn Canyon. The country’s
but with Kazakhstan being just one hour Kazakh student sitting next to me on the low population density (one of the world’s
“You might initially be fooled into thinking the Kazakhs are a

surly bunch. But then something wonderful happens — the scowling
old babushka on the train reaches into her bag and shares her food
with you… [and] the grim-faced train conductor happily poses
for pictures with you”

Zenkhov Cathedral.
Kazakhstan's main
religions are Islam
and Russian Orth-
dox Christianity

Charyn Canyon has an
uncanny resemblance
to the Grand Canyon
is Nevada. Except that
no-one has ever heard
of the place

A lada and a mosque...
Not much has changed
in this region where
Central Asia meets the
former Soviet Union

1. The Valley of Balls
2.The Arystan Bab Mausoleum
3.Villagers from Mangystau
1 2
“Kazakhstan is rich in historical and archaeological remnants, from the

fossil-filled, 80-million-year-old spherical rocks of the Valley of Balls,
via the Tamerlane-era mausoleums and fortifications of Turkestan,
to the Soviet-era architecture of Almaty and Aktau”
lowest at a mere 6.5 people per km2) makes nomads or the Brezhnev era (old Leonid was good stuff). Factor in all that healthy outdoor
it a haven for wildlife, so birdwatchers General Secretary of the Kazakhstan SSR activity, and you’ll come back a new person.
and naturalists are in heaven. And that prior to becoming President). I’m not going to pretend Kazakhstan is
remarkable scenery, coupled with a dazzling an easy trip. It’s hard going, travelling huge
purity of natural light, makes Kazakhstan a It’s Mostly Untouched by Modern distances over bumpy roads or, in many
paradise for photographers. Life areas, no roads at all; taking long overnight
Kazakhstan offers the rare sight of train journeys in cramped shared cabins;
The Food is Hearty landscapes utterly untouched by human staying at basic hotels with little concept
If you’re a vegetarian or a fussy eater, hands — no roads, houses, agriculture of guest service; eating the same meal
Kazakhstan isn’t for you. The country’s or electricity pylons. But it’s not just the every day; and generally surrendering the
cuisine may suffer from a lack of variety, but landscape that is in a time warp. Camels comforts of modern life. But as the saying
it’s robust and hearty; perfect for anyone graze by the roadside as old men ride by goes, no pain no gain, and the gains in
wanting to get in touch with the inner on donkeys; women in headscarves pray Kazakhstan — the people, the scenery, and
caveman. We’re talking huge metal skewers in centuries-old mosques; what few cars the general sense of going where few people
of grilled lamb; chunks of fatty horsemeat there are are often delayed while farmers have gone before — are worth a bit (okay, a
sausage; rounds of bread the size of car on horseback herd cows along the road; lot) of roughing it. As are the photographs
tyres; groaning plates of pilau rice; boiled and even in Almaty, the McStarbucks of the and the memories with which you’ll return.
sheep’s head; fermented camel’s milk. What West are yet to make their presence felt. The And you see, I didn’t even mention Borat…
it lacks in finesse it makes up for in quantity, driving force behind the country is a much- Tim Russell travelled to Kazakhstan as a guest
and if my trip is anything to go by, hygiene derided and now forgotten remnant of the of Turan Asia. For flight information to Almaty,
standards are high. Which, given the 1980s — the Lada 1600. Cheap, economical click on airstana.com
unspeakable state of Kazakhstan’s toilets, is and hard-wearing, it is to Kazakhstan what
a very good thing. the Honda Dream is to Vietnam. The country
wouldn’t run without it. 3
It Has an Epic History
As befits a country that has been inhabited It’s the Perfect Place for a Detox
since Neolithic times, Kazakhstan is rich Kazakhstan’s simplicity and its lack of
in historical and archaeological remnants, development make it the perfect destination
from the fossil-filled, 80-million-year-old to detox from modern life. Junk food is
spherical rocks of the Valley of Balls, via the non-existent outside the big cities. All hotels
Tamerlane-era mausoleums and fortifications offer Wi-Fi, but it never, ever works, and
of Turkestan, to the Soviet-era architecture the country’s 3G reception is patchy at best.
of Almaty and Aktau. You’ll need a guide or And with the country being 70 percent
a guidebook to learn about it, as what little Muslim, you’re more likely to overdo it on
signage that exists is in Kazakh and Russian, tea than booze (though the local beer is very
but the country has a fascinating history, good, and vodka can be had for as little as
whether you’re interested in 11th-century VND20,000 a bottle or VND60,000 for the

Travel
travel domestic
The Expat’s Guide

to Travelling with Dad
Though it had been a while since Ed Weinberg went on vacation with Dad,
two father-son weeks reminded him what boys’ vacations are all about
“I don’t know
about your dads,
but mine is the
smartest man in
the world”

La Residence Hue
O
n my third trip home since moving adoptive home, but now I could see it written We booked a car to take us around the
to Saigon, everyone started coming on his face, and in all those photos he made temples, starting at sunrise. When our driver
around. This time, the standard me pose in. told us he’d wait in the car, we realised the
question “When are you coming Over the next couple Saigon days, we deal. Siem Reap buyers beware: you will get
back?” lost a bit of its currency. And Dad puttered around a bit. We saw the fireworks, charged for everything.
started to make vague comments about and went over to my cleaner’s house the next We chinned up and went exploring, along
coming for a visit. day for Tet lunch. That night he blew out the with 1,000 other people. But after an hour
After some back-and-forth — involving candles on another birthday. A few friends of bumping around and taking pictures
food photos, viral videos and a harder sell came, and we Skyped my mother in when it of statues, we decided to look for some
than I’d yet given him — our plans evolved. was time for the birthday speech. guidance. And here’s where we encountered
He’d come over at the start of Tet break, The next day we woke up, scrambled to our first challenge.
celebrate his 70th birthday on Feb. 19 with all the airport, and started our 12-day, five-stop All of the tour guides were booked up, of
the other ‘Tet orphans’, then accompany me grind. course. But Dad improvised. While I went
on my first whole-country travel. to the bathroom, he chatted with strangers.
On Feb. 17, Dad arrived. Fresh off 24 hours Dad’s Dream And a nice couple from California ended up
in transit, he was raring to go. I took him to I’d budgeted in three nights for Siem Reap — inviting us to share their tour.
the Tet flower market on the back of my bike. the only stop he’d explicitly requested — and Our guide was the cheeky and
He thrilled at seeing a passing biker with booked the hotel. We thought getting the tour knowledgeable Ho Kimhoeun — Kim for
seven beer cases stacked between his legs. guide would be the easy part. But nothing is short (kimhoeun.kpt@gmail.com). He had jokes,
He’d never expressed too much interest in my easy over Tet. which my Dad loves. He also had a good

Victoria Can Tho Resort Karavansara Retreat, Siem Reap
amount of experience. I can’t remember the Day 3 we headed to Kulen Mountain — the
number of times my Dad expressed our good magic mountain where the Angkor kings A Quick Intro to Dad
luck at finding him. harvested their temple stone. This was a holy
Day 1 was the small temple loop — place, a place of pilgrimage, where even the — He was born in Philadelphia, and
Angkor Wat, Bayon (the one with 216 tourists seemed to be part of the magic. currently resides in New Jersey
faces of the god-king carved in) and the
tree-swarmed Tomb Raider temple. Then The Fortune-Telling Monk — He owns a documentary film
we attended the Vaudevillian Phare circus When Kim offered us a turn at prophecy, distribution business
(pharecambodiancircus.org). It was super cool. Dad told him a story. It was nearly 30 years
Dad loves cultural stuff. ago that he got his last fortune told, this time — While working in the New York City
Day 2 was the large temple loop — far less in tarot. And it was damning. That night, Dept. of City Planning, he supported
crowded, no less beautiful. That night we he got a call about his mother — she’d just my Uncle Fred’s petition about
went to Park Hyatt Siem Reap’s (siemreap. had a stroke. Over the next year, as both of releasing snakes in the city to help
park.hyatt.com) free Apsara dance performance his parents’ health deteriorated, his business with the rat problem
— damn spectacular, taking place twice struggled. The young man who’d told his
weekly in the Hyatt’s pristine, fire-lit central fortune — one of my mother’s students — — He loves classical music, and
courtyard. Then we met some friends at 1940s never read tarot again. thinks our cat does too
Shanghai-style Madame Wong Cocktail Bar I, however, told Kim I’d do it.
(misswong.net) for a drink, which is more my I put a thin folio of Hindu Vedas on my — He once ate 14 lobsters at a single
kind of cultural experience. head, parting its pages with a pencil. Handing lobster buffet sitting

it back to the monk, he told me about the underwater while Dad watched, I felt like headed out for the night, leaving the
page I’d landed on, describing Armara. we’d finally redeemed ourselves. shirts and underwear hanging by an open
“Armara was chosen by the king, Mohov window. But Hanoi’s a bitch for line-
Shuth, to be his queen,” Kim translated. Father Knows Best drying, especially when your window
“She was a commoner, and was elevated Dad warned me that if we did certain things opens onto a wall.
to the royalty. Armara was really good, in our fairly upmarket hotels, we wouldn’t Everything was still damp when we
she was really educated, really useful. be invited back. He reminded me to write got back, and we were leaving the hotel
Everything got better.” a TripAdvisor review for Karavansara, our at 7.30am the next morning. So Dad
I asked about her parents — I’d made Siem Reap accommodation. The sweet young improvised, and took the blow dryer to
my pre-fortune wish for the happiness manager Rel apparently talked with him for each article of clothing separately. I can still
and good health of mine — and Kim said, “10 minutes” about how nice it would be if hear that sound in my mind.
“Sure, of course! For her parents too.” we would do this. “It’s a good job for her,” he This ties into Pro Tip #1: if it makes him
Seeing my good luck, Dad decided to reasoned, “and it’s a small thing we can do to happy, don’t fight it. Maybe Dad wants to
give it a try too. And he landed on the help her out.” spend your siesta time washing clothes he
worst page in the book — about Yama, Sideways related to this is something doesn’t need in the sink, maybe he wants to
the god of judgment, who normally exists I slowly realised: Dad is a prototypical buy a US$10 T-shirt at Angkor Wat. If he’s
between hell and earth. When I asked mark. A woman approached us after our happy, you should be happy.
Kim about Yama, he said, “In one day, the overpriced boat ride into Cambodia’s
god of Yama got into hell to see what was Tonle Sap Lake, holding plates adorned Understanding Vietnam
going on. In one day, the assistants of the with our blinking, mid-conversation faces, I don’t know about your dads, but mine is
Yama burned everything in the hell.” and Dad seemed to entertain her US$10 the smartest man in the world.
His wish had been for my good fortune. offer. Small moves that help me to avoid In the morning, Dad was reading a
On Kim’s urging, we started spreading rip-offs in my daily life — like ordering book I bought him before the trip, Neil L.
money around — 100 Riel notes (VND500) food in Vietnamese — were futile. We paid Jamieson’s Understanding Vietnam (never
to anyone who asked. We went up a VND50,000 a bowl for our streetside pho on mind the two other books he tore through in
winding staircase to pay our respects our first night in Hanoi. I wasn’t looking to the first week). Though I bought the book for
to the golden Buddha carved into the cause a scene. him, I didn’t get past the first 30 pages, and
mountaintop, touching his eyes and The next day, Dad wanted to do some he was teaching me things. He read a poem
mouth, dropping 100’s everywhere we washing. Our schedule was pretty tight, to me at breakfast about colonial resentment:
could. only two nights in each place minus travel Marry a mere boy for rice and a tunic?
Later, swimming under a nearby time. But Dad brought the Woolite. Even in hunger and rags one still knows shame.
waterfall, dunking young monks After he did some sink washing we My parents taught me long ago,

A girl who runs after boys brings ridicule light tourism in Hue’s Imperial City and on Where We Stayed
upon herself. Victoria Can Tho’s up-river excursions. I
— Nguyen Khuyen tried to match Dad up with some cool, age- S iem R eap — Karavansara Retreat
Like our tour guide in Siem Reap, this book appropriate friends. Even now, a month after (karavansara.com)
gave Dad some context. It helped him to better him leaving, my friends are still asking about A boutique-styled hotel with a trellised,
understand what’s evolved here. him — and teasing me about having had a white Modernist concrete facade. Their
Later, we wandered into an exhibition of art glimpse into my future. sister property is in Kyoto, Japan
about Hanoi’s Long Bien Bridge, at Maison des We slowed down after Hanoi — we
Arts (maisondesartshanoi.com). Dad had just read did about six different things in our one H anoi — Tryst Hotel (trysthotel.com)
about its birth, and this encounter was one of full day there — instead concentrating on A tidy, sleek and inexpensive location
those synchronistic travel threads it seemed we eating well, hanging out in our lush hotels near Hanoi’s Old Quarter. We never did
were meant to pick up. (and swimming in La Résidence Hue’s and learn why it was called “Tryst”
The owner, Nga, told us about her project, Victoria Can Tho’s lush pools) and walking
while Dad wisely held back. He’d just read around aimlessly. These are basically the H ue — La Résidence
about Paul Doumer, the governor-general things I do in my everyday life here, the life I (la-residence-hue.com)
of French Indochina at the time. During the wanted to let Dad see. A luxury hotel adapted from the old
bridge’s three-year construction, 3,000 forced When we returned to Saigon, we met more French governor’s mansion, with a
labourers were drafted, many dying on the friends, went to more cafés. We bought more beautiful pool added on. The colonial
way to its completion. shirts (to make a total of 20+ on the trip), and aura was strong in this one
But when Nga told us her motivation spent one of our dinners going place to place
for preserving Long Bien, Dad began to to get in as much of my local favourites as we H oi A n — Pomelo Garden Homestay
understand how Vietnamese people make could. The next night, Dad took my friends out Villa (pomelohomestay.com)
sense of their complex history. to Cuc Gach Quan. This four-room homestay was built by
“We believe there are many souls under the On the morning he was leaving, he told me two former five-star hotel employees,
bridge,” Nga said. something he’d expressed a few times already. right near a bucolic shrimp pond
“I see why you want to live here,” he said. He
The Rest of the Trip saw the energy of this place, he went on, it was C an T ho — Victoria Can Tho Resort
I don’t want this to turn into one of my Skype all around. (victoriahotels.asia/cantho)
phone calls home (Mom will be more than And that’s the best thing he left me with, Our last stop of the trip, Victoria Can
happy to fill you in on the details). Suffice it besides for a five-pound salami and two loaves Tho provided the relaxation we were
to say we had fun, through cafés, hotels and of rye bread. The idea that he gets what my life looking for — in an all-inclusive resort
laundry blow-drying sessions. We did some here is about, and he approves. type of setting

Dalat This enormous structure INTERCONTINENTAL suites, a contemporary lob- minibar. The Orient restau-
Travel
offers the most modern of HANOI WESTLAKE by, an excellent buffet, and a rant, serves the finest in in-
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tractions in Dalat. 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan rooms, elegant restaurants, Imperial Suite. ropean-style hostel in town,
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 stylish bars, fully equipped with bunk-style beds mixed
9396 fitness centre with sophisti- M M M or single-sex dorms starting
TRUNG CANG HOTEL hanoi.hgi.com cated service always make at VND150,000, plus a cou-
$ With 86 fully-equipped in-house guests satisfied. Hanoi – Mid-Range ple of double suites from
22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: guestrooms and suites, this VND250,000. A place to meet
(063) 382 2663 is the first Hilton Garden Inn MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI like-minded fold in the Old
property in Southeast Asia. 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan 6 ON SIXTEEN Quarter.
M M M Centrally located and a short Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
stroll from the historic Old moevenpick-hanoi.com sixonsixteen.com M M M
Hanoi – Quarter, the hotel offers a full With its distinctive French Another boutique hotel to
International service restaurant, a stylish architecture and top end grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the HCMC –
bar, along with complimen- service, Mövenpick Hotel six rooms here mix contem- International
tary business and fitness Hanoi is aimed squarely at porary and fresh with handi-
CROWNE PLAZA WEST centres making it perfect for corporate travellers. An all- crafts and antique. Breakfast
INTERNATIONAL the international business or day restaurant and a lounge is included and in the long, CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$ leisure traveller. bar are available to satiate lounge restaurant on the $$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Com- their clientele while the ki- second floor, home-style Vi- 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
mune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: Hilton Hanoi Opera netic gym and wellness stu- etnamese fare is served up (08) 3823 4999
(04) 6270 6688 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, dio offer an excellent range with fresh fruit juices and caravellehotel.com
crowneplazawesthanoi.com Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500 of equipment. Massage and Lavazza coffee. Winner of Robb Report’s 2006
This premier five-star prop- hanoi.hilton.com sauna facilities are avail- list of the world’s top 100
erty lies beside the My Situated next to the iconic able for guests seeking to GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE luxury hotels, the Caravelle
Dinh National Stadium and Hanoi Opera House and a rejuvenate. Of the 154 well- HOTEL houses the popular rooftop
Convention Centre. Boasts short stroll from the Old appointed rooms and suites, $$$ Saigon Saigon bar, and the
two swimming pools, a spa, Quarter, this five-star hotel is 93 are non-smoking. 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan restaurants Nineteen and
and a fitness centre in its 24 a Hanoi landmark. With 269 Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 Reflections.
stories. fully-equipped rooms and PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL 6969
suites, there’s plenty for the $$$$ goldensilkhotel.com EQUATORIAL
DAEWOO HOTEL discerning business and lei- 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) Located in the centre of the $$$
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) sure traveller to choose from. 3733 0688 Old Quarter, this little slice of 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
3831 5555 pullman-hanoi.com heaven offers complimentary (08) 3839 7777
hanoi-daewoohotel.com With deluxe rooms and sundries and a replenishable equatorial.com/hcm

This massive property boasts host up to 600 guests make NORFOLK HOTEL Free Wi–Fi offered in every
seven dining and entertain- up the mix. $$$ room. Low prices, friendly FURAMA RESORT AND
ment outlets, a business 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: staff, clean rooms. This mod- SPA
centre, meeting rooms and RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS (08) 3829 5368 ern oasis is only a few steps $$$$
a comprehensive fitness cen- 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: norfolkhotel.com.vn from the backpacker’s area. Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, PULLMAN DANANG BEACH
tre and spa. The Equatorial (08) 3744 4111 Intimate atmosphere and ex- Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: RESORT
also has an on-site casino. riverside-apartments.com cellent service, this boutique DUNA HOTEL (0511) 384 7888 $$$$
Situated on the banks of the business hotel is located $ furamavietnam.com Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON Saigon River, a 15-minute minutes from famous land- 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: Hanh Son, Danang
$$$$$ scenic boat ride or 20-min- marks, designer shops, and (08) 3837 3699 HYATT REGENCY DANANG Tel: (0511) 395 8888
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: ute bus ride from town, is renowned for its fabulous dunahotel.com RESORT AND SPA pullman-danang.com
(08) 3925 7777 Riverside’s complementary steaks at its in-house restau- $$$$ Located on the stunning
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn shuttle services take you rant, Corso. HONG HOA HOTEL Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da white sands of Bac My An
The five-star hotel and ser- right in the city centre. With $ Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234 Beach, the stylish Pullman
viced apartment complex 152 fully equipped serviced NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, danang.regency.hyatt.com Danang Beach Resort is
offers: 14 instant offices, apartments, the property $$$ Tel: (08) 3836 1915 The Hyatt Regency Danang an oasis of activities and
seven meeting rooms, a offers special packages for 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) honghoavn.com Resort and Spa is beachfront facilities for the modern
600-capacity ballroom, spa, short-term stay starting at 3822 4866 with a stunning view of the traveller. With an idyllic set-
outdoor swimming pool, a VND2.1 million per apart- novotel-saigon-centre.com SINH HUONG HOTEL Marble Mountains. There are ting, this luxury property is
gym, 24-hour fine dining, ment per night for a one- Novotel Saigon Centre has $ 182 luxurious residences and perfect for a family holiday
24-hours room service, and bedroom facility. a contemporary feel, an 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 27 private ocean villas, each or romantic beach getaway.
limousine services. international buffet — The 3827 4648 with a private pool. And with extensive function
RIVERSIDE RENAISSANCE Square — a rooftop bar, and sinhhuonghotel.com.vn facilities, Pullman Danang
INTERCONTINENTAL $$$$$ a wellness centre including a MERCURE DANANG also provides the a great lo-
ASIANA SAIGON 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, swimming pool, gym, sauna M M M $$$ cation for your next incentive
$$$$$ Tel: (08) 3825 1417 and spa. Lot A1 Zone Green Island, getaway or event.
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, riversidehotelsg.com Hoi An & Danang Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 This distinct French ar- Villa Song Saigon Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777
intercontinental.com/saigon chitectural wonder offers $$$ mercure-danang.com THE NAM HAI
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh complimentary Wi-Fi, airport 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, An Bang Beach Retreat Set on the Han River, this $$$$
City, resides the Asiana with pickup or drop off, a 4th floor Tel: (08) 3744 6090 An Bang Beach, Hoi An well-appointed, Accor-man- Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Vil-
signature dining options, ballroom, and authentic Viet- villasong.com anbangbeachretreat.com aged property is one of the lage, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510)
an innovative cocktail bar, namese cuisine at the River Deliberately located away nicest hotels in Central Dan- 394 0000
exclusive spa and health Restaurant. from the city centre in Thao CUA DAI ang. Kitsch but contemporary ghmhotels.com
club, together with luxury Dien, this riverside boutique $ design and some phenome- Includes three massive
boutique arcade. SHERATON villa-style hotel is a sanctu- 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: nal views over the city make swimming pools, a gour-
$$$$$ ary of peace and calm — a (0510) 386 2231 up the mix. met restaurant and elegant
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) rarity in Ho Chi Minh City. hotelcuadai-hoian.com/ spa on a lotus pond. Each
SAIGON 3827 2828 Beautiful, Indochine-influ- massive room has its own
$$$$ sheraton.com/saigon enced design, a great set- DANANG BEACH RESORT espresso machine, pre–pro-
2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: Sheraton boasts one of ting and good drinking and $$$ grammed iPod and both
(08) 3823 3333 the best locations in town, dining options make this a Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh indoor and outdoor showers.
legendsaigon.com with first–class facilities, an great, non-city centre choice. Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396
Immaculate architecture, open–air restaurant 23 floors 1800
spacious rooms, and a fine above the city and a live mu- STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL danangbeachresort.com.vn
selection of fine dining, with sic venue on the same floor. $$$
buffets specialising in Ameri- 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
cana and Pan-Asian cuisine. SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
Joseph’s Hotel
$$$$ starcitysaigon.vn
NEW WORLD HOTEL 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) The newly-built hotel is near
$$$$ 3824 1555 Tan Son Nhat International
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 sofitel.com Airport. With spectacular
8888 This 20–story building in city views and a comfortably-
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Former guests include U.S.
downtown Saigon, caters to
upscale business and leisure
designed outdoor swimming
pool, there is little reason not
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
presidents — two Bushes, travelers seeking a classic to choose this shining star. Next to the cathedral
Clinton — and K-Pop sen- yet contemporary stay in
sation Bi Rain. An ongoing Saigon. M M M
event as well as a hotel,
New World is one of the best WINDSOR PLAZA HCMC - Mid-Range
luxury stops in town. $$$
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:
PARK HYATT (08) 3833 6688 ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$$$$ windsorplazahotel.com $$
2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: The full ensemble with its 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
(08) 3824 1234 own shopping hub (includ- 3822 5914
saigon.park.hyatt.com ing a bank), fine dining, kimdohotel.com
Fabulous in style, prime in a sauna, health club, and
location, everything one superb panoramic views of LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2
would expect from the Hyatt. the cityscape. Also hosts $$$
The Square One and Italian- the largest Oktoberfest in 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan,
themed Opera restaurants the region. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926
have garnered an excellent lanlanhotel.com.vn
reputation, as has the land- M M M
scaped pool. THE ALCOVE LIBRARY
HCMC – Deluxe HOTEL
PULLMAN SAIGON $$$
CENTRE 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,
$$$$$ CONTINENTAL Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: $$$ alcovehotel.com.vn
(08) 3838 8686 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
pullmanhotels.com (08) 3829 9201 M M M
Recently completed on the continentalhotel.com.vn Free wi-fi, international breakfast,
site of the old Metropole, this This charming old hotel has HCMC – Budget
upscale, contemporary prop- been fêted in literature and spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,
erty boasts 306 signature in film. In the heart of Sai- multi-shower, friendly service
rooms combining design, gon, this is the first choice to DUC VUONG HOTEL
comfort and connectivity. highlight Vietnamese culture. $
Innovative cuisine, a great 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) www.josephshotel.com
downtown location and high- 3920 6992 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
tech meeting venues able to ducvuonghotel.com

Destination Zero
How to Talk About Your Trip to Ninh Van Bay
Humblebragging about your stay at a

five-star resort can be challenging, but
Niko Savvas is here to help
C
ongratulations! refrigerated chamber to find
You’ve recently them).
returned from Six
Senses Ninh Van Bay, Peasant Friend: Was your room
Nha Trang’s most luxurious nice?
beach resort! This secluded You: Yeah. It was pretty close to
garden of seaside paradise, the beach.
nestled into the rocks of a Nobody needs to know that
verdant peninsula atop a your room was actually a
sparkling crystal bay, is so private villa, or that your private
ridiculously picturesque that villa had a private beach, or that
your photos will hurt your your private villa was separated
friends’ feelings. from your private beach only
You’re a warm, by your private emerald infinity
compassionate human being pool. It’s best to avoid over-
(extremely good-looking and using the word “private”.
financially successful, too,
like most guests at Ninh Van Peasant Friend: Did you try the
Bay) — so compassionate, spa?
in fact, that you’d be terribly You: Uh huh, we got massages from
perturbed* if your holiday some Australian guy.
tales aroused undue jealousy in Key points: it was just a
those around you. massage, not a cranio-sacral
So how can you tell your realignment therapy session,
colleagues, in-laws, and fellow and the Australian was just
caviar aficionados about your a guy, not an internationally
trip without sending them renowned wellness guru with
into fits of envious rage? By 15 years of experience and rock-
following the suggestions hard abs.
below, of course!
Peasant Friend: When did you get
Peasant Friend: How was the back?
food? You: Yesterday.
You: It was OK. I had eggs for Try not to weep as you recall the
breakfast. sublime pleasure of waking up
Don’t mention that your “eggs” to gently crashing waves, or the
came in the form of a custom soft calls of tropical birds, or the
omelette prepared in front of friendly smiles of the resort staff
you by a white-hatted chef, as they waved goodbye. Speak
or that the chef was standing not of the ephemerality of life,
next to an enormous buffet nor the fleeting transience of all
table teeming with pain au lovely things. Just gaze sadly
chocolat, lemon cakes and into the distance and savour the
freshly-baked muffins. It’s memories of your all-too-brief
acceptable to discuss the wide visit to heaven.
selection of organic juices and Then show everyone ALL of
off-the-vine fruits, but try to your Instagram photos.
stay mum about the gourmet To learn more about Six
meat-and-cheese platters and Senses Ninh Van Bay or to make
the complimentary sparkling a reservation, visit sixsenses.
wines (or that you walked into com/resorts/ninh-van-bay/
an enormous glass-walled, destination
M M M JUNGLE BEACH RESORT one of a kind destination. easytigerphongnha@gmail. (077) 399 0011
Travel
$ com salindaresort.com
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Blue Ocean Resort A hostel and street-front bar A five-star luxury beach
Hue & Lang Co Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384 $$$$ resort, hotel and spa right
all in one. Has a pleasant,
junglebeachvietnam.com 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui airy atmosphere in the bar on the beach of Phu Quoc
On a secluded promon- Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) and restaurant area while island in the peaceful town
ANGSANA LANG CO 384 7322 of Duong To, just 4km from
tory north of Nha Trang, this the 52 dorm beds — four
$$$$ blueoceanresort.com.vn the international airport of
budget place is all about beds to a room — go for US$8
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Com- life-resorts.com Phu Quoc.
hammocks, the sea, the (VND168,000) each a night.
mune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
jungle and nature.
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800 COCO BEACH M M M
angsana.com/en/lang_co Ho Khanh's Homestay
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ $$
Located on Vietnam’s South 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Sapa
$$$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Central Coast, Angsana Lang Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shim-
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: 384 7111 phong-nha-homestay.com
(058) 398 9666 cocobeach.net CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
mering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encom-
mianhatrang.com With charming wooden bun- Phong Nha Farmstay $$
galows, a private beach, a $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203
passes the resort’s contem- swimming pool (both with 871946
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
porary buildings and chic attached bars) and a French catcathotel.com
$$$ Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
interiors. restaurant, Coco Beach con- The best view in town from
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 5135
BANYAN TREE LANG CO
(058) 625 6900 tinues to be run by those phong-nha-cave.com its bar restaurant, the Cat
$$$$
novotel-nhatrang.com who opened it in 1995. The first western-run farm- Cat Guesthouse is paradise
This four-star hotel with 154 stay in Phong Nha, this well- at very reasonable rates. The
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Com- Joe’s Garden Resort rooms have big windows,
guestrooms, all with a ter- appointed travellers’ joint
mune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, $$ balconies, and log fireplaces.
race and sea view. Complete has a great bar and restau-
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham
with a pool, spa, restaurant, rant area, a swimming pool
banyantree.com/en/lang_co Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 Topas Ecolodge
bar and meeting room that out back and views over-
Built on a crescent bay, The 7177 $$$
caters for up to 200 del- looking paddy fields and
Banyan Tree offers privacy joescafemuine.com Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai
egates. mountains. Rooms start at
and unparalleled exclusivity A leafy, seafront bungalow Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)
with all-pool villas reflecting VND600,000 for a twin or
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY resort and café with nightly double, with a family room topasecolodge.com
the cultural and historical live music all in one. Remi- With its panoramic views of
Ninh Van Bay for five costing VND1.4 mil-
legacy of past Vietnamese niscent of the type of places the surrounding mountains
$$$$ lion a night.
dynastic periods. you’d find on the Thai is- and valley, Topas Ecolodge
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,
LA RESIDENCE
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 lands, an international and M M M is the perfect place to expe-
8222 Asian food menu together rience the remoteness and
$$$$
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383
sixsenses.com/resorts/ninh- with a cheap happy hour Phu Quoc quiet of the Northern Viet-
7475
van-bay/destination on beer make up the relax- namese mountains — the
The upmarket Tatler maga- ing mix. landscape, the fresh air and
la–residence–hue.com the ethnic peoples. Guests
zine voted top hotel of 2006. BEACH CLUB RESORT
The location is stunning, on a MIA RESORT MUI NE $$ stay in private bungalows
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $$$$ with dinner served in a local
bay accessible only by boat. Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui stilt house restaurant.
66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island,
SHERATON NHA TRANG Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440 Tel: (077) 398 0998
6736 miamuine.com M M M
hoangphuonghotel.com HOTEL AND SPA beachclubvietnam.com
$$$$ A quaint and popular is-
26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) VICTORIA PHAN THIET RE- land guesthouse featuring a Vung Tau & Ho Tram
M M M 388 0000 SORT AND SPA beachside restaurant, and in-
Nha Trang sheraton.com/nhatrang $$$$ cludes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, rental, boat trips and tours BINH AN VILLAGE
M M M Tel: (062) 381 3000 are easily arranged. Discount $$$$
victoriahotels.asia rates during rainy season. 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
EVASON ANA MANDARA
AND SIX SENSES SPA
Phan Thiet & Mui Ne Another beachfront Victoria (064) 335 1553
chain, the thatched–roof MANGO BAY binhanvillage.com
$$$$ bungalows and family villas
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha $$
Ninh Chu Bay Beach are set in exotic gardens with Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, CON DAO RESORT
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) an infinity swimming pool, $$
Club & Bar Tel: 0903 382207
352 2222
sixsenses.com/evason-re- Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan a seafood restaurant, spa, mangobayphuquoc.com Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao,
Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) beauty salon and jacuzzi. An eco–friendly approach Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939
sorts/ana-mandara/desti- condaoresort.vn
627 2727 with a gorgeous beachside
nation M M M
2.6 hectares of private beach-
ninhchubay.com location, the bungalows are
Enjoy the private beach with made of rammed earth, no HO TRAM BEACH RESORT
side gardens and villa–style Phong Nha AND SPA
excellent facilities and have a TVs or telephones (although
accommodation furnished $$$$
massage. Evenings are sub- Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
in traditional native woods, Tel: (064) 378 1525
lime at this beach club, soon sunsets from the beach bar.
this resort offers verandah Easy Tiger and Jungle hotramresort.com
to become a fully fledged
dining, a pool bar and the Bar This attractive property is the
signature Six Senses Spa.
resort. Grilled seafood, Eu- Salinda Phu Quoc Is-
ropean sausages, sangria, $ land, Resort and Spa ideal getaway from Ho Chi
draught beer, and speciality- Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Minh City. 63 uniquely bun-
infused vodka all make this Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844 Commune, Phu Quoc, Tel: galows and villas promise a
Photo by Matt Dworzanczyk

Travel Promos
Noi Aman Spa Lake
Six Senses Vietnam most devoted offspring. So make it easy, and cooking in between. Packages start at
sixsenses.com with a special Asian set dinner at his VND2,150,000 per person, per night.
Six Senses Vietnam are inviting you to favourite beach getaway. Cookbook Café’s
celebrate your summer with them and are six-course dinner should have everything Pullman Danang
sweetening the deal for Vietnam residents he’s looking for, including a complimentary pullman-danang.com
this year. On the price of all rooms they’re glass of sparkling wine — and his favourite June is seafood month at Restaurant Epice,
including round trip airport transfers, present, a mug that probably says ‘World’s and if a restaurant with a perfect little
a daily buffet breakfast and a bevy of Best Dad’. All this plus live music, Jun. 21 slice of beach nearby is emphasising their
adventure and wellness programmes at — VND499,000++ per person. seafood offerings, you know there’s got
all three of their five-star luxury resorts. to be something special going on. Every
White Night Saturday evening in June and July, throw
The Wonders of Vietnam @ InterContinental Danang down your hard-earned VND695,000 net
@ La Résidence Hue danang.intercontinental.com for the freshest scallops, oysters, fish and
la-residence-hue.com Admit it, you’ve always wanted to be grill you can handle, or carouse their clay
La Résidence and Spa Hue are rolling Don Johnson. Now you can Miami Vice pots for some Thai green chicken curry or
out what General Manager Phan Trong your way through M Privé’s new White braised beed Massaman — saving some
Minh calls “the most intensive experience Nights, dressed in your most pristine to room for the chocolate fountain treats, of
of Vietnam that any traveler could have a backdrop of the Monkey Mountains. course.
inside a single week”. Incorporating five Drinks pour for free for ladies from
UNESCO sites, The Wonders of Vietnam 9pm to 11pm, and the dreamlike vibes Father’s Day Feast
package shepherds travellers from the continue all through the night. Every last @ Novotel Nha Trang
‘stupendous grottos’ of the world’s Saturday of the month, 9pm till late. novotel-nhatrang.com
largest cave system, into the pavilions Enjoy a poolside BBQ dinner with Dad, and
and palaces of East Asia’s most charming Paradise Hotels and Cruises don’t even entertain thoughts of not eating
imperial city. “Hanoi and Saigon are paradisevietnam.com all the fresh seafood and Australian beef he
fine destinations, but these sites are the One of Halong Bay’s premiere vacation wants you to eat — you’re a growing boy/
Vietnam that every traveller dreams of.” specialists is now combining their girl, after all. If you can get him away from
You won’t get an argument from us. specialities — offering two and three day the other tremendous plans you have lined
packages that combine their hotels and up early, he’ll get a free drink from 6pm
Father’s Day, Asia-Style cruises, plus much more. Take a spin on to 7pm. And if you’re that good a planner,
@ InterContinental Nha Trang the Paradise Luxury vessel, then dock you might as well sign up early — booking
nhatrang.intercontinental.com for the night at stylish Paradise Suites a day in advance lops 15 percent off the
Father’s Day can sneak up on even the Hotel, island-hopping, caving, kayaking VND630,000++ rate.

The Motorbike Diaries Part 3: A 1,000km DETOUR
Riding on the back of Nemo, his motorbike

from Vietnam, Matt Dworzanczyk continues
his cross-Asia journey via Thailand
DAY 39 reach my arm into Burma from here. But unlike others I showed him my papers!
VIP treatment nope! Can’t cross here, either…
The initial goal was to continue from Laos Chiang Dao for the night. Found a perfect DAY 48
into Myanmar. With Myanmar’s restrictions camping spot in a forest, by a river, really Bad Day
on foreign motorbikes, I wasn’t getting my scenic. Made two ‘acquaintances’. They 10km out of town, bike dies. Another 30km
hopes up but planned to try my luck at every moo, smell, get too close for comfort and — first fall. 20km more — mad rain.
possible crossing anyways. Indeed, from Laos won’t stop following me. Lost my spare sparkplug somewhere, tore
it was ‘no go’. Well, off to Thailand then! up my only pair of shoes and spent the day
Arrived like a VIP — with a police DAY 43 drenched. Lucky the tent and sleeping pad
motorcade! The Trap absorbed the damage from the fall. Nemo’s
5km into Thailand, I suddenly remember Big happening right outside Pai! Cops put fine and I’ll find new shoes. Tomorrow will
— damn, they drive on the left! up a checkpoint and with huge grins pull go better.
over every backpacker on their rental bikes
DAY 41 ‘ticketing’ them for not having licenses. DAY 51
Stalker Cows Oh, how much satisfaction it gave me to The War
Tachileik border crossing. I can practically turn the guy’s grin upside down when Mae Sot border crossing. Almost but still no…
Found a guesthouse. There’s a mad of proud American high schoolers in town after all to mark some 6,000km on the
looking French guy chasing after me. He saving the locals from imminent demise road.
keeps calling me ‘champion’ and offers all through their gracious voluntourism.
his help since “you Polish people helped us DAY 61
French in the war!” DAY 58 Parting with Nemo
…which war? One Night in Bangkok I tried every crossing. Reached out
Of all the crazy roads I’ve been on, to every contact. No chance to cross
DAY 55 Bangkok driving is by far the most into Burma with Nemo. That means
Umphang stressful. Corrupt cops and mad rain don’t Nemo’s catching a boat to Bangladesh.
There is no road from Umphang to help. No, Bangkok, I didn’t like you much I’m hitching a ride to Ranong, crossing
Bangkok. I should’ve checked before before and guess I won’t this time either. Myanmar bike-less and we reconnect in 4
driving 200km to a dead end. Then again The night? Bottles of Sangsom on weeks. Not ideal, but it’ll be an adventure
— I like it here. Quiet, peaceful, perfect obnoxious Khao San Road, riding in either way. Safe journey, Nemo.
little noodle shop nearby, a nice café circles through the city, sneaking into a For more on Matt’s films and travels, check
where I can write; plenty of nature… and high-rise swimming pool at 3am (getting out the Etherium Sky Production Blog at
to remind me it’s still Thailand, a group kicked out soon after). A decent night www.EtheriumSky.com/ProdBlog

Spotlight
Joe’s Garden Resort and Cafe
J
oe Springer-Miller used to be flair, creativity and passion came and went. always pinch yourself and imagine.
well-known in Saigon — with a Life, that ‘ol little devil, kicked in, and the day-
surname of such double-barrel to-day humdrum and troubles of running and Hotel Mui Ne
uniqueness, you’re unlikely to be maintaining a business took over. Three years ago another dream was fulfilled
forgotten. A one-time corporate expat, a They’ve done well. Seven years later and and Thao and Joe moved from their
photographer and one of the forces behind Joe and Thao are a two-car family, have a original, non-seafront location to one on the
Saigon Players, he then did what every four-year-old son and another child on the beach. With it came bungalows. Wooden,
happy-go-lucky man in the prime of his way. Yet, what dreams don’t tell you is that leave-thatched bungalows by the sea.
life just shouldn’t do. He fell in love. life isn’t made to be simple. The plight of They have since built and repaired, added
The unfortunate recipient of his affection the once bustling Mui Ne has become their greenery and a small swimming pool.
was a graceful lady called Thao, a District 9 plight. Yet their bungalows by the sea, no matter
dreamer who could at once be both full of Much of the beachfront has eroded — there how relaxing and rustically well-appointed
joy and yet distracted and thoughtful. are times when the sand is non-existent. are no longer as busy as they once were.
The Maine native she fell for was also Places such as Mia Resort have found a way It’s the Mui Ne trend. The Russians are no
a dreamer, and the couple quickly went round this. Thanks to clever construction, longer there in their swarms, and many of
head over high heels for each other. After they always have a beach. Joe is trying to the destination’s former customers have
an extended romance and an even longer follow suit. However, the appearance of migrated elsewhere.
extended marriage and honeymoon, they too many businesses vying for a declining Joe, though is bullish. He believes. And
settled in Mui Ne to live, work and love by number of tourists has stretched many a he still has that ear-to-ear smile and a
the sea. They went to live their dream. resort, bar and restaurant to the limit. Joe’s twinkle in his eye. Thao is the epitome of
That is how Joe’s Cafe was born. is one of the few places that is busy. Their graceful charm.
nightly live music and international comfort For theirs is a love story that continues,
Love Song food menu holds them in good stead. So and with a new baby soon due, it will move
In real life, dreams are only a pale shade does the lounge lizard-style atmosphere into its next phase. — Nick Ross
of themselves, and while at the start the and the feeling that you could be on a Joe’s Café and Garden Resort is at 86 Nguyen
couple gave themselves body and soul to Thai island. You’re not — Vietnam doesn’t Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
their project, as time went by, the moment for do Thai-island holidays. But you could 384 7177 or online at joescafemuine.com

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Hanoi
Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eats / The Alchemist / The Therapist / Food Promos / Medical Buff /
Book Buff
Photo by Julie Vola
Hanoi
Alternative Health Business Groups HANOI INTERNATIONAL eco-chic lifestyle. The prod-
THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) ucts — clothing, accessories
THEATRE GROUP and furniture — are made
A-Roaming Amcham hitshanoi.com from natural silk and organ-
Bodyworker 4th Floor, InterContinental ic cotton certified to global
g karen@a-roamingbody-
worker.com
Hanoi,
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
HANOI CLUB
COUNTRY CLUB
organic standards. Metiseko
is also certified by the fair-
a-roamingbodyworker.com 3934 2790 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) trade, Textile Exchange.
Essentials Provides various holistic

healing modalities. Services
include craniosacral therapy,
amchamhanoi.com
Auscham
3823 8115
thehanoiclub.com THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
deep tissue massage, prena- 4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai Hanoi Ois 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
tal massage, healing stones Ba Trung NETBALL CLUB (04) 3828 6965 Airlines
massage, as well as energy
healing including Reiki and
Tel: 0909 710994
auschamvn.org
ghanoinetball@gmail.com This shop’s motto “Western
sizes, Vietnamese prices”,
Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops L’ESPACE says it all. While mostly re-
are also available. BBGV FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE tailing women’s separates AIR ASIA
Floor 1, Hanoi Central Office 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: in soft cotton jersey and airasia.com
Hanoi Holistic Bldg 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, (04) 3936 2164 linen, the store also car-
Health Guide Hoan Kiem vphanoi-lespace.com ries a range of accessories
issuu.com/hanoiholistiche- Tel: (04) 3934 8681 like embroidered canvas
alth bbgv.org totes and printed tees. Has AIR FRANCE
A guide to various holistic M M M a good selection of unique airfrance.com.vn
health practitioners in Hanoi. CCIFV men’s shirts.
Only available online, but a Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Clothing
great information source. Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 THREE TREES
2229 JEWELLERY CATHAY PACIFIC
ccifv.org BOO SKATESHOP 15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: cathaypacific.com/vn
M M M SKATESHOP (04) 3928 8725
Eurocham 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
Bookshops G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 (04) 3923 1147
M M M CHINA AIRLINES
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: booskateshop.com
(04) 3715 2228 china-airlines.com
CONTRABAND
Cooking Classes
BOOKWORM eurochamvn.org
BOOK SHOP CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: Icham 23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, JAPAN AIRLINES
HANOI COOKING CENTRE
(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Tel: (04) 3928 9891
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) Launched in Hanoi in 2007,
COOKING CENTRE vn.jal.com
Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
3829 2322 3715 2229 Contraband targets young
(04) 3715 0088
Bookworm has been the cor- icham.org hip working women. Gar-
hanoicookingcentre.com
nerstone of Hanoi’s literary ments are made from versa- JETSTAR PACIFIC
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a
scene since 2001. It has been Singapore Business tile fabrics that are comfort-
able to wear and easy to look
school, retail outlet and café, jetstar.com/vn/en
around the block quite a bit Association Vietnam where you can find classes
and now shares a space with Business Center Fortuna Ho- after – making them ideal for
on not just Vietnamese
Hanoi Cooking Centre. With tel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh work and travel. New styles
cooking, but international
over 15,000 new and second- sbav-hanoi.org are introduced each month
cuisine, held in a beautiful KOREAN AIR
hand fiction and nonfiction with limited production runs, koreanair.com
setting. They also offer culi-
titles in stock, the shop also offering a sense of exclusiv-
buys used books and offers
M M M ity.
nary tours.
free travel advice. Has a sec- HIDDEN HANOI
ond shop in Tay Ho Cinemas GEORGE’S FASHION BOU- LAO AIRLINES
COOKING CENTRE
TIQUE laoairlines.com
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel:
Librairie Française CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
0912 254045
de Hanoi Cinematheque 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
ARTS CINEMA (04) 3718 6233
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
FRENCH BOOKSHOP
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, A wide range of Vietnamese MALAYSIA
23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, With new styles arriving in
Tel: (04) 3936 2648 culinary classes are offered
Tel: (04) 3726 4896 store every second day, this
in these well-appointed and AIRLINES
Not a movie theatre per se, shop offers a huge range of
but a private film club that clean facilities. The knowl- malaysiaairlines.com
Trang Tien Bookstore dresses, shirts, pants, skirts
charges a membership fee edgeable staff will guide
VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS and accessories in local and
in return for entrance to a you through the secrets of
44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: imported fabrics. Clothes fit
wide selection of movies, Vietnamese cooking in an
(04) 3936 2151 all sizes, from petite to aver- SINGAPORE
new and old. The manage- open air courtyard.
age to the generous figure. AIRLINES
Weekend Bookworm ment has an eclectic taste Alterations and a made-to-
and shows films and opera singaporeair.com
CHILDREN’S & VIETNAM-THEMED measure service are avail-
BOOKS from all over the world. Call able at no extra cost. M M M
1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho to arrange membership.
Tel: (04) 3829 2322 L’ATELIER Crafts & Furniture THAI AIRWAYS
With its main store located M M M WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES thaiairways.com.vn
in Chau Long, sharing space 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6758 Betterworld
with Hanoi Cooking Centre, Clubs & Societies
ateliervietnam.com GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
the second edition in Tay Ho
Stocks women’s wear, leath- 8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho TIGER AIRWAYS
specialises in children’s and
er bags, shoes and handi- Fair trade or bought directly
Vietnamese themed books, AMERICAN CLUB from the artisans who made
tigerair.com
as well as selling bao cap EVENT SPACE crafts. This chic boutique of-
fers both ready-to-wear and them, Betterworld stocks
(Subsidy Era) furniture and a 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
made-to-fit clothing. unusual handicrafts from
range of souvenirs and gifts. Tel: (04) 3824 1850 around the world as well as VIETJETAIR
Open weekends only.
METISEKO second-hand books, DVDs vietjetair.com
GOETHE INSTITUT and more.
Xunhasaba GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem
metiseko.com Mekong Quilts
32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3734 2251
Tel: (04) 3825 4068 A lifestyle brand that started HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS VIETNAM
goethe.de/hanoi 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s AIRLINES
(04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang
M M M move to the capital has seen
Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
vietnamairlines.com
them bring us their creative,
poetic prints designed for an 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831
Hanoi
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non-profit quilt shop featur- of dental professionals who 96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
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accessories. Styles vary from dental services throughout Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
Vietnam. The clinic provides
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traditional to patterned and 3941 2789
& Medical Clinics
Asian-inspired. Founded in the highest quality technolo- Daloc.vn
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the region, the shop em-
ploys women in rural areas,
care to patients. HANOI GOURMET
DELI / WINE SHOP
6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
Bumrungrad
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Shopping
enabling them to make an M M M (04) 3943 1009
HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK
HOSPITAL
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income and care for their Hanoigourmet.com 136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel:
families. Galleries (04) 3715 3717
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ECO-CHIC Art Vietnam Gallery 38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) Shopping
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(04) 3935 2645 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, kitchenart.vn MEDICAL The Manor,
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298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: Me Tri Street,
artvietnamgallery.com L's Place
(04) 3843 0748 My Dinh, Tu Liem
Established in 2002, this GROCERY SHOP
vietnammedicalpractice.com
M M M American-run gallery has 3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
On the little street directly
Tel: (04) 3787 5500
championed Vietnamese 3719 9911
Cycling below Kim Ma, with all sorts
contemporary art for more
of specialists including OB/
than two decades. Holds NATURALLY VIETNAM
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16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) national doctors, but they are Cau Giay, Hanoi,
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used to treating expats. Also
3719 3719 GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS naturallyvietnam.com a 24-hour emergency service. Tel: 1900 555596
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CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST The first experimental art 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04)
15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: Tel: (04) 3333 6016
space in Hanoi, the non-prof- 3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay
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55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: Viet Tower Plaza,
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BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS Vietnam Arts Museum WESTERN CANNED FOODS Tel: (04) 3537 8666
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66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, 17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
hongngochospital.vn
Tel: (04) 3733 2131 Tel: (04) 3934 3854
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Well-known medical clinic
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also known for its quality
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emergency services. Doctors
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718
and consultants also provide Center
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Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
QSI International tel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan
Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04) vn.alliedpickfords.com
3946 0435
School of Hanoi M M M The largest home moving
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay santaferelo.com
bishanoi.com company in the world, Allied
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418 Property Rentals With over 150 offices around
A selective, independent, Pickfords moves over 1,000
hanoi.qsi.org the world, Santa Fe offers lo-
co-educational day school. families in over 175 countries
QSI International School of Fair Real Estate cal and international moving,
Provides a British-style every day. Has a full range of
Hanoi is next in a long line RENTALS pet transportation, relocation
education following the services — domestic moves,
of ‘quality schools’ estab- 6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) services including home
National Curriculum for Eng- office moves and storage —
lished by the Quality Schools 3718 6332 search, orientation, cultural
land, with students taking both inside and outside of
International. The institution fair-realestate.com training, immigration servic-
IGCSE and A Level. Pending Vietnam.
specialises in instructing pre- es and records management.
authorization, will offer the
school and lower elementary Gia Long Housing
IB programme from 2016 JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS
onwards.
age students. RENTALS
6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
MMM
R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay
Singapore Internation- (04)3826 0334
Concordia Interna- Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589
al School jvkasia.com
tional School Hanoi gialonghousing.com Focused primarily on the in-
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau ternational and local move-
Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Hanoi Renting
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878 ment of household goods,
Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block
concordiahanoi.org RENTALS
JVK is currently a leader in
C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: 3758 No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac
A non-profit entity, Concor- the field. Has offices in both
2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Long Quan, Tay Ho
dia has highly performing
Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: 3795 1036
schools in both Hong Kong
kinderworld.net/sis
and Shanghai at the top tier
Provides an international
of the educational system.
education for students from
All instructors and teachers
Primary up to University
are native English speakers
level. A strong curriculum
and admission applications
combines the best aspects of
are accepted throughout
the Singaporean, Australian
the year.
and Vietnamese curricula, all
taught by qualified teachers.
Hanoi International
Runs various co-curricula
School
activities and prepares stu-
48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel:
dents for internationally
(04) 3832 8140
recognised qualifications:
hisvietnam.com
iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE &
With schooling available
AS/A Level, GAC.
for students studying at
elementary through to sec-
United Nations Inter-
ondary levels of education,
national School (UNIS)
HIS is one of the few private,
G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan,
international education op-
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551
tions in the capital. Offers
unishanoi.org
Cambridge IGCSE and IB
Established in 1988, 1,050
Diploma for students at the
students from 60 na-
secondary level.
tionalities follow the IB
programme from aged 3
International School
through to aged 18. A not-
of Vietnam
for-profit entity, UNIS aims
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai
for its students to emerge as
Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,
responsible stewards of our
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183
global society and natural
isvietnam.org
environment.
A not-for-profit, pre-kinder-
garten to Grade 12 school
serving the international M M M
and local community of Ha-
noi. ISV accepts students of Motorbike Rental
any nationality aged 3 and & Repairs
up. Highly qualified and
experienced international
educators are supported by Anh Dung
a 21st-century campus with MOTORBIKE RENTALS
the latest in educational 37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
technology plus excellent 0915 066096
resources for learning. Class

Hanoi
Sports, Fitness sional Yoga Studio providing ZENITH YOGA Hanoi Sports Shop
& Yoga more than 20 different yoga YOGA & MEDITATION 146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel:
styles such as: Hatha Yoga, 247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong (04) 2218 5757
Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga, Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) hanoisport.vn
ELITE FITNESS Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with 3923 0253
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE infrared heater), Power Yoga An international Yoga studio
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: and much more, with a flexi- providing classes across a
(04) 3718 6281 ble schedule of 10 classes per variety of levels and styles,
Essentials elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features
top-of-the-line fitness
day. Bring harmony back into
your life — Studio Five is the
perfect place to reconnect
including prenatal and post-
natal classes, restorative
yoga, pilates and tai chi.
Score-Tech
44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
equipment, separate cardio
and spinning areas and an
your mind with your body. Also have a yogic shop offer-
ing incense, yoga and pilates
(04) 3718 8246
score-tech.net Super-
indoor swimming pool with VIETCLIMB mats, books, clothes, soaps, Apparel company offer- markets
a retractable roof. The spa- CLIMBING CENTRE Himalayan products and oth- ing personalised sport
cious studios and natural 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, er essential yoga equipment. garments for companies,
light make it a welcoming Tel: 0914 143185 schools and professional
Big C
place to squeeze in a work vietclimb.vn M M M sports clubs using the latest
222 Tran Duy Hung,
out, but be prepared to pay. Although a little hard to find, printing technology with a
This place is top of the range. VietClimb is a French-owned, Sportswear design team from Barcelo- Cau Giay;
200-meter climbing gym & Equipment na. Score-Tech controls the Garden Shopping
N SHAPE FITNESS with state-of-the-art cours- whole production process Centre, The Manor,
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5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Adidas Football printing to sewing. Big and
Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) gym that are changed every FOOTBALL & SPORTS small orders for all sporting bigc.vn
6266 0495 few months. They offer clin- 19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) and commercial needs.
nshapefitness.vn ics, classes and children’s 6273 3095 CITIMART
events. Membership and
Ground Floor,
STUDIO FIVE group rates are available, Boo Skateshop Umove Travel
YOGA & WELLNESS but be sure to check out the SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING and Outdoors Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai
5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai three-month pass. 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515 (04) 3923 1147 13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: (04) 3934 2999
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Tel: (04) 3755 1617
metro.com.vn
Photo by Harris Spencer

Bar Stool 6 Degrees
Photos by Harris Spencer
O
nly in Hanoi do you sleek tables and even sleeker So, yes, 6 Degrees is exactly refreshing whiskey sour, and
enter a rooftop bar patrons. Even on the hottest the kind of place where you you can bet your motorbike-
by walking through nights, the relatively high go for a YouTube-worthy riding butt that it’ll be delicious.
a shiny Mini Cooper altitude allows the rooftop proposal or to mull over pros They also serve everything
dealership. Veer to the right lounge to maintain a delicate and cons before dropping from pan-seared salmon with
of the colourful lineup of cars breeze. Fairy tale-like plants a load of dong on a bright mango salsa to thick and crispy
and enter the magical glass punctuate the sprawling floor, yellow car. And yes, when a fries to juicy lamb chops. One
elevator, where an attendant clustering in a lush garden in shiny building protrudes like of the bar’s co-owners, Hoang
is waiting just to save you the the corner. (The owners’ father a diamond-encrusted thumb Mai, is at the helm in the
chore of pressing the button. is a bonsai collector). above the expressway, it’s kitchen, and brings her culinary
Ride up to the eighth Fleets of well-dressed toddlers easy to feel underdressed and school knowhow (she trained at
floor and get your iPhone’s prance by, no doubt taking a overwhelmed. But hear me out. Le Cordon Bleu in California)
panorama mode fired up, break from their parents’ fancy 6 Degrees is actually a pretty to the Vietnamese and Western
because you’ll want to take a cocktail parties over yonder in chill place. dishes alike. The dishes are
picture of this view. On a clear one of 6 Degrees’ many private The design is smart and complex in flavour but simple in
night, from the highest perch event spaces. Girls at adjacent simple. From the modern presentation. The seabass I had
in the ‘hood, you can see for tables take identical selfies. white chairs to the glass-walled was adorned with lightly-grilled
kilometres in all directions, People sip smoothies alongside balconies to the sturdy wood zucchini slices and a baguette,
across West Lake one way and their Cosmopolitans. tables, this bar knows that its and the spring rolls and grilled
the Red River the other. crazy amazing view of Hanoi is pork in my upscale take on bun
You might hear cheers from Not Just For Proposals all the decor it needs. If you’re cha nem were perfectly seasoned
the table beside you, where the In many ways, 6 Degrees not feeling the roof, you can and textured.
10th proposal of the week has screams new Hanoi. It rises always just stop on the second 6 Degrees will soon start
just been sealed. A few months like a phoenix from the ashes floor, where 6 Degrees’ more serving breakfast, making
ago, a YouTube video of an epic that are the Nghi Tam traffic modest cafe serves the same this venue truly a place for all
proposal — think sky writing fumes. The building itself has food and drink menu. occasions. I strongly advise
and rose petals — was circulated a bright Mini Cooper crawling 6 Degrees’ expansive, you check it out, even if you’re
all over the Hanoi Interwebs, up its side, almost like it’s beautifully-designed menu not in the market for a car or
catapulting 6 Degrees to taunting the drab cockroaches is chock full of silly jokes a marriage proposal. — Noey
romantic-rooftop-sunset- that make their way up and punny items. You can Neumark
lakeview-proposal status. decrepit apartment buildings in sip a boozy Manhattan, a Six Degrees is at 189 Nghi Tam,
White lights twinkle above neighbouring alleyways. tart strawberry mojito, or a Tay Ho, Hanoi

Hanoi
Bars, Clubs & able place to pull up a stool food menu. nearby favorites. Unpreten- The Republic
Beer Clubs and take pulls in a relaxed tious, dog-friendly. MODERN SPORTS BAR
haven. 7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:
Le Soleil & Paolo 0904 010116
+84 Bar and Chi ROCKSTORE republic.vn
CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR Eden Hanoi DIVE BAR LIVE MUSIC BAR A contemporary mid-range
23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE 284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: bar and eatery showing
facebook.com/bar84hanoi End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho 0915 663993 01653 336087 live sport and boasting a
On the Town Housed in a colonial build-

ing, bare brick, comfortable
sofa-like seating and grungy
facebook.com/edengargen
When it comes to outdoor
parties, big outdoor parties,
facebook.com/lesoleil-
paoloandchi
A self-style dive bar and live
facebook.com/Rockstore-
Hanoi
Hanoi's home-made, home-
convivial atmosphere. Has
a creative comfort food
menu, excellent breakfasts,
decor related to a past make the setting at Eden makes music space with a distinct grown version of Hard Rock daily specials and a popular
up the mix at this venue put this place difficult to beat, Gallic feel. A pleasant ambi- Cafe without the stigma and second-floor outdoor terrace.
together by the people be- with well over a 1,000 revel- ence and tasty cuisine add to the expensive prices. Nightly
hind Barbetta. lers packing in at the week- the offerings at this popular, live music or DJing events are
ends. Check out their Face- West Lake venue. coupled with creative decor, THE ROOFTOP
book page for the party list. a selection of Belgian Beer SKYLINE LOUNGE
88 LOUNGE and a food menu. Check 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR Madake their Facebook page for Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: ETE BAR BAR & EVENT SPACE details. Tel: (04) 3946 1901
(04) 3718 8029 FRENCH LOUNGE 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: therooftop.vn
88group.vn 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, (04) 6276 6665 The first up-on-high bar and
A wine bar with a difference, Tel: 0976 751331 facebook.com/madakehanoi Sidewalk Hanoi restaurant in the capital and
this mainstay on the water- A favourite among those With a stunning garden DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE still a leader in its field. With
ing hole scene in West Lake who roam further west of overlooking a peaceful lo- 199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho DJs spinning EDM and great
mixes contemporary design, the city centre, this multi- tus pond, this bar is famed facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi views of the city, this is a
black ceilings, subtle lighting storey restobar has been go- for it’s many weekday and A bar and grill with an ec- must for a more Vietnamese,
and an international aesthet- ing strong for more than two weekend events, its ambient lectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor top-shelf experience.
ic with one of the best wine years. It has balconies, mez- Asian-style décor, DJ nights setting. Regular DJ nights and
lists in town. Not surprisingly zanine seating and a long bar and general atmosphere. live music add to the great
it is developing a faithful cli- guarding exactly 50 different A popular West Lake go-to ambience. Check out their The Unicorn Bar
entele. Well worth a visit. cocktails. For many the Ete joint. grill fare. Tasty. COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE
burger is right on the mark 2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel:
as are the sandwiches, tar- 0904 886266
ANGELINA tines and salads. It’s always MAO’S RED LOUNGE SPY BAR The latest offering of well-
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN crowded — especially during LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR HOLE IN THE WALL known champion bartender,
Sofitel Metopole Legend Ho- the weekends. Amiable staff, 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn of-
tel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, pleasant vibes. (04) 3926 3104 Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 fers up a lounge space, a
Tel: (04) 3826 6919 There’s only one Mao and A cheap, cheerful and wel- small bar area and an attrac-
Top-end bar and Italian res- there’s only one red lounge. coming slither of a watering tive seating space out front.
taurant all in one. Five star FATCAT BAR This late-night bar has been hole popular with expats and Now, as for the cocktails…
prices, but has an atmos- DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT going for years, and despite anyone looking for some
phere to match and a great 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: its Old Quarter dive status, good conversation. Cheap
cocktail selection. The kind 0986 495211 it still packs in the drinkers. beers, oodles of Jameson’s TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL
of place you’ll order a wagyu linkhanoi.com and often open late. Oh, and SPORTS BAR/GRILL
and eat it at the bar. A small establishment from check out the Danish hotdog 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel:
the minds behind the party PHUC TAN stand out front. To die for. (04) 6675 9838
and event organisers, LinkH- LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR tracyspub.com
Backyard Bia Hoi anoi. The bar has tables fill- 51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan A miniscule sports bar on
UPMARKET BIA HOI ing the first floor and spilling Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785 TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR the main drag of Xuan Dieu
15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho onto the sidewalk as well as Now located on the river AND CAFE is perpetually crowded with
From the Tet Lifestyle collec- a small loft area for lounging. in between Long Bien and ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE regulars drinking out front on
tion, this outdoor, hideaway, Chuong Duong Bridges, this 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem plastic stools. Notorious for
garden-based bia hoi is every late night, DJ bar is notorious tadioto.com its burgers, cooked fresh to
bit as attractive (and popu- HANOI ROCK CITY for… well, being Phuc Tan. Located close to the Opera order, Tracy’s is also famous
lar) as its café peers in the LIVE MUSIC VENUE Almost every Hanoi-based House, this alternative, arty for their draft beers, claim-
West Lake area. A Vietnam- 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, reveler has ended up here bar is garnished in red and ing to serve the coldest draft
ese-style food menu and Tel: 01633 166170 at some point. It’s just one white on the outside, with beer in Hanoi.
regular live music make up facebook.com/hrc.hanoi of those places. warm brown and tones of
the mix. Has a downstairs, English- blue on the inside. Creat-
style pub garden area and ing an atmosphere merging VUVUZELA
an upstairs space dedicated POLITE PUB Shanghai and San Francisco, MODERN BEER HALL
BARBETTA to live music and live pro- LONG BAR engaging contemporary art- 2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba
ARTSY BAR & CAFE duction. Weekly live events 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: work lines the walls at the Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922
34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, feature bands and DJs both (04) 3825 0959 latest incarnation of this vuvuzela.com.vn
Tel: (04) 3734 9134 from Vietnam and overseas 5pm to 2am well-known and well-loved When Vuvuzela opened up,
Set in a colonial villa, when — established and up and Probably the closest thing space. mixing the Hooters concept
it comes to design, the funky coming. Hanoi has to an authentic from the US with a beer hall,
but comfortable Barbetta English-style pub, Polite is drinking food and a DJ booth,
with its roof terrace is dif- frequented by a steady mix The Nest it created the start of a new
ficult to beat. A great place HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS of locals and expats who find VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB scene — beer clubs. The origi-
for coffee, beer or even a CZECH MICROBREWERY solace in the nightly conver- Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay nal Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh
bite to eat. 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, sations at the long bar, pool Ho, Tel: 0947 890333 Tong is still going strong,
Tel: (04) 3972 5088 and live football matches. facebook.com/Nest. but it’s so popular that it’s
Lounge.09XuanDieu best to book your table in
CAMA ATK The West Lake location sug- advance. For a full list of
MUSIC & ARTS BAR HOUSE OF SON TINH RED RIVER TEA ROOM gests that this is the kind of Hanoi locations, check their
73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, LIQUOR LOUNGE LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE bar that will attract expats. website.
Tel: 01262 054970 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho It does. But thanks to the
cama-atk.com (04) 3718 6377 facebook.com/pages/Red- Vietnamese atmosphere, Cafes
With well-poured drinks, sontinh.com River-Tea-Room there’s a nice mix of local
a foosball table, no smok- This bar-cum-restaurant is Located on the lakeside lane and foreign over the three
ing and a midnight closing outfitted with comfortable, just below Xuan Dieu, this floors of lounge seating, DJ Annam Cafe
time, CAMA ATK knows ex- stylish furnishings and is warm, quiet and friendly pub booths and dance areas. DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE
actly what it wants to be famed for its luxurious rice offers a selection of interna- The views here are pretty Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu,
— and that’s refreshing. The wine liquors and newly cre- tional and local beers, wine, eye-catching, too. Tay Ho
space is a part time venue ated cocktail class. Does cocktails and a nice view A trendy, deli-style café con-
for smaller acts and DJs. The regular events including of West Lake. Serving pies nected to Annam Gourmet
venue is hip, comfortable comedy nights and shows all and pasties from The Cart, next door. Bright and fresh
and will likely provide the the live football. Also known Vietnamese food from Dieu’s décor is complemented by
serious drinker with a reli- for its creative Vietnamese next door, or delivery from shelves stocked with im-

Coffee Cup Hoa 10 Gio
Photos by Harris Spencer
I
f you’re not too fussed get just a hint of the colour and Emotion Lounge. same can be also said with
about drink quality and vibrance that awaits upstairs. Fortunately, Hoa 10 the refreshing green tea and
you’re craving vibrant, Indeed, style is something that Gio’s impressive design longan, for VND40,000.
comfortable spaces to break Hoa 10 Gio does with ease credentials haven’t resulted Venture too far off the beaten
up the monotony of your and has done to great effect in an exorbitant pricelist. And track though and you’ll find
weekly pilgrimage to Cong Ca in three self-contained suites while the menu won’t exactly yourself with a bland cup
Phe, there’s no going past Hoa that boast trendy décor, comfy have you leaping to write of soya bean powder with
10 Gio. furnishings and powerful air a review on TripAdvisor, it hot water, or the ca phe ha
Tucked away on Hang Voi conditioning to boot. will keep you satisfied as you thanh (VND40,000) — which
behind Hoan Kiem Lake, this while away the hours. The translates to “Hanoi special
florist-cum-café is the ideal A World of Weird Vietnamese coffee is good and coffee”, but is actually an
spot to camp out with your After somewhere quiet to sensibly priced at VND28,000. oily, bitter concoction of black
laptop and watch life buzz hit the books? Settle down The friendly staff can also work coffee, condensed milk and
by on the streets below. The with a cup of strong ca phe in wonders with a tiny espresso butter.
neighbourhood alone is worth the Vintage Library. Feeling machine, pumping a mean latté But if you stick with the
the trip, with a charming array chatty? Catch up with a friend for VND45,000. basics and don’t mind doing
of modern cafés and boutiques under one of the miniature If you’ve hit your caffeine so, you’ll have yourself a
interspersed with the odd pho indoor gazebos in the floral- quota for the day, the pomelo- relaxing and comfortable oasis
ga stand spilling out onto the themed Secret Garden. Or if and-honey tea (VND25,000) to spend those hot summer
sidewalk. you’re just feeling plain “meh”, is a delicious alternative and days. — David Mann
As you pass through the watch YouTube videos on your comes with a generous helping Hoa 10 Gio is at 26 Hang Voi,
florist on the first floor, you’ll phone in the curiously-named of real pomelo pulp. The Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Top Eats La Bicicleta
H
idden in the mess and a strength. People don’t destiny in the kitchen’s hands While I think it could use a bit
of alleyways behind necessarily seek it out, he tells and splurge on the tasting more salt, I find this pasta salad
Elegant Suites in West me, so much as they stumble menu (VND295,000 per person). overall refreshing and keep
Lake, you can reach upon it. Once you stumble upon sneaking more bites.
La Bicicleta by turning off of it, though, I reckon you’ll want Impressions To the pasta’s left sits
Quang An at the suggestion to seek it out for future visits. I sat down with Guim on a a thick slab of multigrain
of an unassuming sign, or you You can approach the food recent weekday to sample La bread topped with sautéed
can get there by turning left, options here in any number Bicicleta’s set lunch and some mushrooms in a creamy garlic
then left and the going straight of ways. Go on a date and test of their other menu highlights. sauce and sprinkled with
down alley 31 from Xuan Dieu. your relationship’s strength It’s a rough life. Here were my greens. Although difficult to
You can approach it a myriad by trying to choose just a few impressions: eat gracefully, what with those
of other ways, too, but I’ll items from the bistro’s multi- The penne in the set pesky mushrooms sliding
spare you the confusion. The paged menu. Treat yourself on lunch’s starring pasta dish is around, the sauce getting all
point is this: La Bicicleta can be a weekday with the generous appropriately al dente and the over my hands and the herbs
hard to find. set lunch, sweetly priced at just textural variety — from the sticking to my hungry lips, the
Restaurateur Guim Valls VND95,000. Bring a group so creamy avocado to the juicy toast is worth the struggle.
Teruel cites the restaurant’s you can explore the tapas menu tomatoes to the crunch of fresh The croquetas’ buttery insides
location as both a challenge without abandon. Leave your herbs — is just about perfect. and crispy outsides are truly
Photos by Julie Vola
indulgent, from the explosion of the next day for paella. Twist that delightfully pervades each vegetable markets.
juicy roast meat to the béchamel my arm, I tell him. Proper dish to the crisp bitterness of In other ways, the menu at
that gloriously seeps from the paella takes nearly an hour to the kitchen’s homegrown herbs La Bicicleta is authentically
jambon pillow of perfection. make, so Guim advises guests atop grains and proteins alike. Spanish, from its adherence to
Next up is a sizzling plate to order it in advance. And the tradition of paella despite
of garlic prawns. Perfectly after my experience tasting it, Trial and Error customer confusion (“It’s not
seasoned with the ideal blend I just advise you to order it, La Bicicleta embraces its supposed to be yellow!”) to its
of spice and salt, the prawns period. With each forkful of this Hanoian setting. After a devotion to Spanish drinking
swim in a thin red sauce flecked heaping pile of rice, I discover series of trial runs, Chef Jordi customs (every drink comes
with crispy slices of garlic. I a new layer of flavour, from the Llagosteria figured out which with a complimentary snack).
lap up the sauce, oil and garlic briny notes that ring in with Vietnamese breed of rice works I’m no Spaniard, but dining
with a fresh baguette that’s just each sliver of seafood to the best in a paella, and found the at La Bicicleta makes me feel
been brought to the table. The paprika’s subtle smokiness. perfect local potato to achieve like I’m one step closer. —
fried calamari rings are equally This is the kind of place that the desired crunchy-creamy David Mann
addictive, with a crispy coat Spaniards and non-Spaniards sensation for the patatas bravas. La Bicicleta is at 44 Ngo 31
that stays impressively intact as alike will return to time and He’s also taken full advantage Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi
I bite into the tender core. again. The food is bursting of the freshness of ingredients or online at facebook.com/
Guim insists that I return with flavour, from the garlic afforded by Hanoi’s fruit and labicicletahanoi

The Alchemist Bring on the Sun By Karen Gay
W
ith summer's arrival come advised. Exposure to the sun allows the Perhaps it would be wise to take the
opportunities for basking body to naturally produce vitamin D. advice of Corey Hart, and wear your
poolside in the company of In recent years research has shown the sunglasses at night.
friends. I was doing just that significant role vitamin D plays in our
recently when the conversation turned health. Some doctors consider it to be more Eat Your Sunscreen
to protecting ourselves from the sun. We important than vitamin C. It seems that the importance of a healthy
relied on our shade umbrella to diffuse The sun makes us feel happy. When the diet cannot be overstated. Diets high in
the intensity of the UV rays and chose body is exposed to sunlight, the production processed foods lead to the impairment
not to use conventional sunscreen. We of the mood-enhancing neurotransmitter of intercellular communication, suppress
didn’t want to put ourselves at greater serotonin increases. immune functions, damage our DNA and
health risk by applying toxic chemicals “Turn your face toward the sun and the are linked to the skin-ageing effects of
to our skin. shadows will fall behind you.” — Maori wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. Skin
Now to be fair, there are safe alternatives Proverb cells are strengthened and nourished
to conventional synthetic sunscreens and internally with real food and plenty of
sun blocks. I advise the reader to look for The Eyes Have It water. When your skin is well nourished
non-toxic products if your exposure to the Not only have we learned to cover our skin it responds better to sunlight.
sun is to be prolonged. from the sun, we also hide our eyes behind Spiritually, the sun is our direct link
To a large extent the sun has become an sunglasses — blocking the most direct path to the creator. As we connect with it the
object to be feared. Although our skin can of communication to the brain for processes nurturing we receive allows for deeper
be vulnerable to sunburn, avoidance of the that improve our health and enhance our feelings of peace and wellbeing.
sun can actually lead to greater health risks. mood. Rather than shun the sun, salute it, as
Appropriate doses of sunlight are essential When the eyes absorb sunlight, the do the yogis in an expression of gratitude
to our overall wellbeing. The following are production and release of another for its life-giving light and sustenance.
a few reasons to seek out the sun. neurotransmitter, melatonin, also increases. Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker,
Together these hormones regulate our is a holistic health practitioner
Mood Enhancer mood, emotions, memory, self-esteem, practicing in Hanoi. For information
The sun is good for you, plain and simple. sleep habits, appetite, digestion and body on the types of services provided, visit
Like everything else, moderation is temperature. a-roamingbodyworker.com

Hanoi
ported gourmet goods and Hanoi Cooking words ‘modern art’. Housed A cozy midsize café/restau- ASAHI SUSHI
cafeteria-style furniture. An Centre Café in a converted colonial-era rant where you can forget SUSHI RESTAURANT
eye-catching temptation for COURTYARD CAFE villa, a continuous flow of ex- the heat and bustle of Hanoi. 288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,
weary shoppers. 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh hibitions, talks, experimen- The atmosphere is relaxed Tel: (04) 3974 5945
Relax in a leafy courtyard, tal music and game shows and here you can imagine, asahisushi.vn
air-con dining room or un- make up the mix here. Great for a second, that you’re
CIAO CAFÉ der a covered roof terrace cuisine, too. sitting in a European café.
RESTO LOUNGE with a Vietnamese ca phe, The ood is fresh and inter- CAFÉ 129
On the Town 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3934 1494
A stone’s throw from the
Italian coffee, beer, wine or
freshly squeezed juice. Order
from a seasonally changing
Moc Cafe
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
nationally inspired, and has
an excellent top-floor terrace.
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3821 5342
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, menu or try one of the all- 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Long-running, slightly in-
this Saigonese franchise of- day breakfast specials for (04) 3825 6334 Yolo congruous hole-in-the-wall
fers a variety of different VND110,000, including juice Set in a slightly run down FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE café and restaurant that
western dishes at reasonable and coffee or tea. colonial villa, the faded but 32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh has served up up a Western
prices. Loaded with booths charmingly run down French- facebook.com/YoloCoffee- menu since the late 1990s.
and a steady, young Viet- styled retro interior, good Shops Check out their and their ex-
namese crowd, the estab- Hanoi House WiFi and some of the best Boasting an abundance of cellent breakfasts, all scoffed
lishment is a great place to HIDEAWAY CAFE coffee in town makes this communal seating, funky de- down in a traditional, Viet-
squash a sandwich or bowl 2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, a great spot to while away cor and a full roster of regu- namese environment.
of pasta and people watch. Hoan Kiem a couple of hours. The food lar live music performances,
They also do coffee. Set in a colonial-era build- menu mixes Vietnamese fare this rollicking café-slash-bar
ing with equally colonial- with sandwiches, western has quickly earned a place in Cousins
era styled furnishings, this and pan-Asian mains. the hearts of Hanoi’s young CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
COFFEE BEAN hidden away family house and trendy. Fun, unpreten- 3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho,
AND TEA LEAF café is one of those gems tious and unashamedly Tel: 01238 670098
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE synonymous with Hanoi. Puku quirky, it’s endearing use of facebook.com/cousins.hanoi
28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Quiet, intimate and simple, INTERNATIONAL / CAFE recycled furniture — antiques A contemporary, French-
Tel: (04) 3715 4240 the staff will treat you like 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan and colourful artwork create influenced restaurant sell-
coffeebean.com you’re a guest in their home. Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 a vibrant atmosphere — ing international cuisine
This American-style chain This spacious spot on Food make for a popular hangout. at reasonable prices in a
cafe is a multilevel, indoor/ Street is open around the Open 24 hours. spacious, airy atmosphere.
outdoor café overlooking HIGHLANDS COFFEE clock, offering Aussie-inspired Blackboards, whitewashed,
Westlake. With its LA coffee CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN comfort food along with more bare-brick walls, period
and office feel, when you 5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan eclectic Irish nachos, cottage Zenith Vegetarian Cafe tiles, a well-chosen wine
walk in you might just forget Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; pies and pan-Asian fare. Up- VEGETARIAN / VEGAN list and an outdoor terrace
that you’re in Hanoi. Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, stairs is fit for social gather- 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, overlooking the lake make
Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, ings and live music while the Tel: 0904 356561 up the formula.
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem no-smoking downstairs space zenithyogavietnam.com
CONG CAPHE highlandscoffee.com.vn is filled with people working A vegetarian and vegan cafe
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE With numerous locations and socialising. Serves as respecting the philosophy of DA PAOLO
152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba around town, what originally community centre, especially yoga — simple living, mindful CLASSIC ITALIAN
Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba started as a fourth-floor joint late at night. thinking. Using 100 percent 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai
Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; overlooking the lake has natural ingredients, the cui- Mai, Tay Ho,
15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A become one of the most sine has no additional addi- Tel: (04) 3718 6317
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho popular, home-grown cafes SAINT HONORE tives or MSG and is cooked This airy, contemporary look-
congcaphe.com in Vietnam. CAFE / BOULANGERIE using the minimal amount ing Italian restaurant next to
With a kitsch, communist- 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, of oil. The stress is instead the famed lawn chair and co-
driven theme saturating this Tel: (04) 3933 2355 on eating whole food in its conut café on West Lake has
quaint cafe, most patrons Joma This cafe and French-style natural state. all the right ingredients to
are young Vietnamese bo- COFFEE/BAKERY boulangerie is best visited become a classic. Run by the
hemians and artsy expats. 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem; in the morning when that long time former manager of
Sip on a blended cup of joe 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery M M M Luna D’Autunno, it features
with beans from the Central Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To aroma hits you as you walk scrumptious wood-fired oven
Highlands, knock back one of Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) through the door. The down- Eat pizzas from VND120,000 and
the many different types of 3718 6071 stairs space is split into the other Italian delicacies. Open
tea available or sip on fresh- joma.biz bakery on one side with a every day for lunch and din-
ly squeezed juice from the Popular café with a con- small non-smoking dining AL FRESCO’S ner, delivery is also available.
Spartan cups in one of the temporary western feel to space on the other. The up- AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
hippest café chains in town. the counter-style service stairs lounge area has stand- 24 Quang An, Tay Ho,
and atmosphere. The food ard tables as well as sofa Tel: (04) 3938 1155 DALUVA
is all there, too: breakfasts, seating. Simple but tasty alfrescogroup.com FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
D’Alice salads, soups, ice cream, French and international 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
BOUTIQUE CAFE muffins, cakes, cereals and fare is served at meal times. Tel: (04) 3718 5831
89 Trieu Viet Vuong, bagels. Starting in Laos in daluva.com
Hai Ba Trung 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi A popular hang-out for ex-
Put together coffee and cake in 2009. Joma contributes 2 TET DÉCOR CAFÉ pats and trendy Vietnamese
and you get one of those percent of each sale to chari- ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR in the Xuan Dieu area on
timeless combinations. And table organisations. Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, AU LAC DO BRAZIL West Lake. This bar and res-
if you really want to binge on Tay Ho BRAZILIAN taurant offers casual dining
the cake-end, then check out tet-lifestyle-collection.com 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, with a classy, Middle-Eastern
d’Alice and its quirky interior. Kinh Do Cloistered among the back Tel: (04) 3845 5224 twist, as well as wine, tapas,
Perfect for that more modern PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE streets of West Lake and aulacdobrazil.com events and attractive décor.
combination of sweet tooth 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, sheltered from the noise of A Brazilian churrascaria
and iThingy. Tel: (04) 3825 0216 Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is offering all-you-can-eat
One of the longest-running a destination for those who grilled meat and seafood on DON’S TAY HO
cafes in town, this hole-in- appreciate life’s pleasures: the skewer. In typical Brazil- CONTEMPORARY NORTH
Duy Tri the-wall, no frills café-cum- coffee, food, art and music. ian rodízio fashion, waiters AMERICAN
VIETNAMESE CAFÉ restaurant home-makes its Simple and unpretentious, bring cuts of meat to the 16 Quang An, Tay Ho,
43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho patisseries and is renowned the café has an old-fash- table for patrons to pick and Tel: (04) 3719 3719
The longest-running café in for its excellent yoghurt. ioned warmth and rustic feel choose, all for a set price. Dons-bistro.com
the capital, this 1936-estab- combined with unique and They also offer wine pair- This lake-facing venue with
lished, three-floored space is inspiring art installations. ings, a salad bar and an a la its top floor Oyster Bar is
simplicity at its finest. Even MANZI ARTSPACE carte menu, with a creative the work of charismatic
the coffee here sticks to its ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY selection of fruit caipirinhas. Canadian restaurateur and
roots — it’s made using the 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, The Hanoi Social Club wine connoisseur Donald
same blend of Arabica and Tel: (04) 3716 3397 CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY Berger. Focusing on comfort
Robusta cooked up by its facebook.com/manzihanoi 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, food done well, the main
founders. Unpretentious, en- A stunningly designed con- Tel: (04) 3938 2117 restaurant menu includes
dearing and old-fashioned. temporary café and events facebook.com/thehanoiso- anything from wood-grilled
space that screams out the cialclub rare tuna steak with fragrant

The Therapist Bullying
Dear Douglas,
I am a middle school student who has an
assignment to write a report on human
behaviour. I recently read a news article
about a 12-year-old girl who committed
suicide after having been bullied for a
long time, and no-one stopped it. I want to
know many things, especially why people
bully. I also want to know about how to
handle it if someone tries to bully me or
my friends. What can people do to stop
it? Should adults do more or is it up to the
kids to handle it? Also, how does it affect
people who are bullied? Are they damaged
in the future? — Linh
Hello Linh,
Thank you for asking very good questions
about an important topic. Bullying is
something that happens universally —
everywhere in the world, in every culture.
The answers I will give you are from the
point of view of psychology. Whenever we
try to answer the question “why?” we are
creating theories to explain the way things This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed
are. mental health counsellor, talks about why people bully and
Bullying has to do with power. It is
when one or more people misuse power how bullying can be prevented
to intimidate or hurt someone else. One
theory is that when a person has self-
confidence, self esteem or self respect, Assertiveness is when we are able to but they probably need acceptance and
they feel good about themselves. They are stand up for ourselves and to not allow inclusion as much as anyone. Only seeing
empowered. That means they have power someone to have power over us. It comes them as bad people feeds the low esteem
on the inside, power over themselves. They from the understanding that we all have that drives their need for power. Even
don’t want power over other people. They equal rights and that we are not more people who do bad things are not bad
want to empower other people. important or less important than anyone people — if we take the time to know them.
When people are lacking in self- else. For most people it takes a while to Your last questions are good questions
confidence, self esteem, and self respect, feel strong and assertive. We also need and important for people to understand.
and don’t feel very good about themselves to understand that it is important to ask At the core of every human there is a
they tend to be in one of two categories. for support. We can’t always solve every sense of our self worth, self esteem and
1) Some feel weak or not confident in problem alone so we need to turn to friends, self respect, our ability to love ourselves
themselves. Sometimes they try hard to fit brothers and sisters, parents, teachers and in a healthy way, not better or worse
in, or do things to win approval. Or they counselors for support. The other part than anyone else. So, all of the things
might withdraw and separate themselves is to create atmospheres in schools and that influence that part of us are very
from the group feeling more comfortable working environments where cooperation important. Bullying can cause people to
on their own. and connection is more important than feel bad about themselves and sometimes
2) Some who lack confidence try to competition and separation. Bullying can it can take a long time for a person to get
increase the feelings of approval by being come out of environments where it feels like the confidence they deserve. The worst
more powerful than those around them. people are against each other — power is scenario is when they become helpless
They might cover up their low esteem with that way that they ‘win’. and hopeless and decide it is better to
a “mask” of over-confidence and this can Stopping someone from the behaviour escape life than to live in the pain they are
lead to abusing power and bullying. The that is bullying has two parts. One part in. That is why it is so important that we
feeling of power can be addictive. is to set limits and make it clear that understand and stop bullying.
So the answer to why people bully is bullying behaviour is not acceptable. Thank you, Linh, for raising awareness
that they are trying to make up for feeling Sometimes it means they will need to suffer about bullying.
“not good enough” by getting a good consequences. Often we need adults to help — Douglas
feeling that comes from being powerful us with that. The other part is to see beyond Do you have a question you would like
over someone else. When we are already the behaviour to the person inside. Douglas’s help with? You can email him at
confident, we don’t feel the need to put Maybe people who bully are seeking douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details
someone else down to put ourselves up. attention and approval in the wrong way, will not be printed

Hanoi
again and again. A traditional 3934 8325 Known for its good, European-
Vietnamese and kids menu is alfrescosgroup.com style coffee and first-floor ter-
also available, as is a wine list Recently refurbished, the Austral- race area with views over the
focusing mainly on French wines. ian-influenced Jaspa’s is known cathedral.
for its attentive service, tasty
food and large portions. Popular
HALIA HANOI with both the western and Asian LA VERTICALE
SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY IN- expat communities who come CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
On the Town TERNATIONAL

29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3946 0121
back again and again. The com-
prehensive menu is a fusion of
western and Asian cooking. The
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel:
(04) 3944 6317
verticale-hanoi.com
thehalia.com cocktails come large and the Situated in an art-deco villa,
A multi-floored venue with a bar wine is mainly New World. this establishment is run by the
Chinese black bean beurre noir area and a refined dining space. most famous French chef in the
to gourmet pizza and pasta dish- The menu includes Singaporean country. With modestly priced set
es Excellent range of imported specialities such as the shrimp KOTO ON VAN MIEU lunches and subtle Vietnamese
oysters, great breakfasts and an satay salad and the chilli crab RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR touches on the dishes, the up
extensive wine list. spaghetti. A pan-European clas- 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, market establishment lures in
sical menu mixed in with light Tel: (04) 3747 0337 its high class customers with
Asian flavours is also on offer. koto.com.au quality Vietnamese-French fu-
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE Has an extensive wine list. The restaurant arm of Koto, an sion cuisine.
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE F&B training school for disad-
11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: vantaged youth. Authentic Asian
(04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, HIGHWAY 4 and European cuisine is served LE BEAULIEU
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC over four big floors of restaurant CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET
elgaucho.com.vn 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, space. It’s cushioned, comfort- Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo
With venues in Saigon and Bang- Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, able and has a rooftop terrace, Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
kok, the essence of El Gaucho Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639; too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun Tel: (04) 3826 6919
is quality top grade meats off 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pas- The Metropole’s signature restau-
the grill. Steak is the mainstay 3771 6372 tas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs rant serving up both classic and
— the USDA cuts are to die for The home of Son Tinh liquor, and sandwiches all under one contemporary French fare. Buffet
— but everything from chicken, Highway 4 is also known for its homely roof. options mix with an a la carte
pork and seafood is also up for communal dining and ethnic menu and an ambience that
grabs. Add to this a backdrop of food menu taking in dishes from could be straight out of Paris.
low Latin music, low, subtle light- around the regions of northern KY Y
ing, an extensive wine list and Vietnam. Try out their catfish JAPANESE RICE EATERY
slick service. There’s a reason El spring rolls. Phenomenal! 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba LUNA D’AUTUNNO
Gaucho is so successful — every- Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 CLASSIC ITALIAN
thing’s being taken care of. Not to be mistake for a sushi 27 Nam Ngu,
India Palace joint, this wonderful restaurant Tel: (04) 3823 7338
NORTH INDIAN is your typical, Japanese working lunadautunno.vn
FOODSHOP 45 10B Quang An, Tay Ho person’s rice eatery. Has a bar This old-favourite Italian uses tra-
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN Tel: 01247 668668 area downstairs and booth-like ditional wood ovens to prepare
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, indiapalacehn@vnn.vn seating on the upper floors. some of the city’s finest pizzas,
Tel: (04) 3716 2959 Like a phoenix rising from the which range from VND100,000 to
foodshop45.com ashes, so India Palace has once build-your-own-skies-the-limit.
Lakeside location and low bam- again returned to Tay Ho, this LA BADIANE Set inside a large, thoughtful
boo seating, this eatery is one time on the strip between Don’s CONTEMPORARY FRENCH space seasoned chefs also make
of the most popular Indians in and The Warehouse. Tasty North 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, fresh pastas, soups and cheeses.
town. Selling an international Indian fare in a pleasant envi- Tel: (04) 3942 4509 Has regular live music and a
version of the mighty curry — ronment from the team behind labadiane-hanoi.com great Italian wine list.
they even sell pork and beef Tandoor. A white-washed, colonial era
here — the menu keeps to the villa replete with period wooden
northern part of the subcontinent shutters greets you as you enter MAY MAN CHINESE
with masala, dopiaza, korma and J.A.F.A. this contemporary French restau- CUISINE
the more Goan vindaloo taking INTERNATIONAL rant. The menu here mixes mod- PAN-CHINESE
centre stage. G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, ern Gallic cuisine with a touch Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba
Tel: (04) 3758 2400 of Mediterranean and Vietnam Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
One of the larger and more com- thrown in, all creating an inno- fortuna.vn
French Grill fortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is vative and evocative selection of Elegant and luxurious, May Man
TOP-END GRILL a great place for drinking cock- fare. Has an extensive wine list. has long been regarded as one of
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, tails by the pool. The beverages the best Chinese restaurants in
Me Tri, Tu Liem, are not the cheapest, but this Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of
Tel: (04) 3833 5588 is made up for by service and La Bicicleta authentic Chinese fare together
facebook.com/frenchgrill ambiance. They also have a full BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO with dim sum, May Man boasts
With unique decor, contempo- menu featuring familiar western 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: extensive a la carte menus, dim
rary ambience, a walk-in wine dishes such as pizza and cheese- (04) 3718 8246 sum menus and set menus. Res-
cooler and a delectable seafood burgers and cater for large par- thbc.vn ervations recommended.
bar, this classy restaurant offers ties or dinner functions. Periodic Spanish Tapas fare is available
guests a service experience with buffets and drink specials are elsewhere, but this is the only
crafted food difficult to find in also offered. eatery where it is authentic and MEDITERRANEO
the capital. from Barcelona. Great selection PAN-ITALIAN
of sandwiches, tapas and paella 23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem,
JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE as well as enormous Spanish- Tel: (04) 3826 6288
GREEN TANGERINE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL style gin and tonics, Tinto de Ve- This long-running, cozy restau-
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: rano, carajillos and sangria. Also rant near the cathedral serves
48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, (04) 3938 8388 known for its moreish, Catalan- all the traditional Italian fare
Tel: (04) 3825 1286 alfrescogroup.com style desserts. Closed Mondays. you could need — homemade
greentangerinehanoi.com An all-day eating and drinking mozzarella and fresh pasta, spin-
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard lounge fit for all occasions, with ach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
with dark green cast-iron backed of course, a focus on steak. Has LA SALSA boards, soups, salads and fish.
chairs greets you as you walk three floors all with different IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN Boasts an extensive wine list and
into this French era-built villa vibes, the kind of slick service 5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: a traditional wood fire oven.
that houses the main section you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s (04) 3995 0950
of this Indochina-styled res- Group and an extensive wine list. lasalsa-hanoi.com
taurant. Serving up an enticing A small but eternally popular MING PALACE
mix of classic and contemporary Spanish-themed café and bar PAN-CHINESE
French cuisine, blended in with JASPA’S with an extensive list of reliable Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba
Vietnamese ingredients and INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN cuisine. Tapas are available, as Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
cooking styles, the resultant fare Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung well as full courses such as veal, A fine dining destination at the
has had customers coming back (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) and duck with currant sauce. Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese
Food Promos Hanoi
Chef Theo Russell is on the case, at Milan Restaurant in the InterContinental Westlake
Prawn Paradise London on the Lake — for stays between now and Oct. 31 —
@ Sofitel Plaza Hanoi @ InterContinental Westlake Hilton Hanoi Opera and Hilton Garden
sofitel.com/hanoi intercontinental.com/hanoi Inn are offering up to 30 percent off on
For such experienced prawn preparers The new menu debuting this month at room rates. With rates so generous, you
as the guys at Ming Restaurant, new Milan Restaurant will feature some might want to even consider showing
challenges are necessary. Hence the fusion Italian dishes — combining yourself some hospitality.
must-try dishes this month: baked authentic styles with local ingredients.
fresh prawn with golden minced garlic Masterminding the transformation is Volcanic Grill
in superior soya sauce, fried prawn renowned InterContinental London @ Highway4
with salt and pepper Hong Kong style, Park Lane chef Theo Randall. With highway4.com
deep-fried prawn in Hong Kong chilli more than 25 years of top-end culinary Those crazy dudes at Highway4 are at
sauce with rice cake. Take them in experience, it seems Hanoi’s fine dining it again — this time importing volcanic
with a 50 percent discount on New scene just got a bit more packed. rocks from Australia, and throwing on
Zealand wines — VND580,000++ for the a daily selection of meat and seafood.
weekday lunch buffet, VND660,000++ Guest in Town? VND308,000 feeds two or three — and
for weekends. @ Hilton Hanoi they’ll even throw in a draught beer
hanoi.hilton.com per person, a free-flow of iced tea and a
For guests reserving through Jun. 30 complimentary dessert.

Hanoi
this upscale yet casual restau- when that Gallic, fresh-cooked Bit Tet Ngon So 5
rant maintains an ambience of aroma of bread, croissants and VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK
elegance, luxury and mystery. patisseries hits you as you walk 20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh
The cuisine mixes international through the door. The downstairs
fare with twists on Vietnamese space is split into the bakery
cuisine and comes complete with on one side with a small non- Bun Bo Nam Bo
a formidable wine list and an in- smoking dining space on the BUN BO NAM BO
house sommelier. other. The upstairs lounge area 67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem
On the Town OLD HANOI

has standard tables as well as
sofa seating. Simple French and
international fare is served at Bun Cha Dac Kim
GOURMET VIETNAMESE meal times. BUN CHA
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67
and pan-Chinese cuisine in a (04) 3747 8337 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem
sleek modern setting with pri- hanoixua.vn/en THE CART
vate dining rooms. With more Gordon Ramsay once filmed SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ
than 80 dim sum selections a show at this restaurant in a 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Vil- KCC (Kien Can Cook)
available along with Chinese en- renovated French villa and now lage, Tay Ho, COM RANG DUA BO
trees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery the ribs carry his namesake. But Tel: (04) 3938 2513 57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da
for those hungry for higher end it’s the twist on old world favour- thecartfood.com
Chinese fare. ites, think fried snail spring rolls Small cozy café and sandwich
and miniature vegetarian banh bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Mien Tron Hanh
xeo, all in a casually elegant set- Village. Serves and delivers tasty MIXED GLASS NOODLES
MOOSE AND ROO ting that make this spot near the baguettes, homemade juices, 7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN train tracks a standout. quiches, pies, muffins and cakes.
RESTAURANT The delivery service is quick and
42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) reliable, which makes this lunch- My Van Than
3200 1289 PANE E VINO time favourite ideal for when you WONTON NOODLES
Contemporary Australian and Ca- PAN-ITALIAN need to eat at the desk. 54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem
nadian comfort food in a pleas- 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem,
ant setting together with a nice Tel: (04) 3826 9080
bar area. Best known for their facebook.com/panevinoHN THE KAFE Pho Bo Cu Chieu
Scotch egg, poutine and burg- Just a stroll away from the Hanoi CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE PHO BO
ers. Clever changing imagery on Opera House, Pane e Vino serves 18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem
the walls. up authentic Italian food and has (04) 3747 6245
done for as long as anyone can thekafe.vn
remember. Renowned for the Spacious, casual, energetic and Pho Cuon Hung Ben
Moose and Roo highly rated, oven fresh pizzas beautifully designed, The KAfe PHO CUON
Smokehouse and large variety of pasta and serves up unfussy comfort food 26 Nguyen Khac Hieu,
AMERICAN GRILL salad dishes — look forward to that aims to satisfy the modern Ba Dinh
The American Club, 19-21 Hai fine food done well at this eat- urban diner. Preparing fresh food
Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) ery that has the feel of Europe. and drinks that show respect to
3939 2470 Huge wine lists, friendly staff and natural ingredients and flavours Pho Ga Ba Lam
mooseandroo.com a loveable owner. from around the globe, this ca- PHO GA
There’s a reason for Smoke- fé-cum-restaurant is a popular 7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem
house’s popularity — the ex- choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual
cellent, on-site smoked meats POTS ‘N PANS community.
together with all the typical, CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE Pho Ga Hang Dieu
American-style sides. Set in the 57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: PHO GA
American Club, dining is both (04) 3944 0204 WRAP & ROLL 1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem
indoors and out, and comes potsnpans.vn 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai
with the best bourbon selection Brought to you by a group of for- Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
in town. mer disadvantaged youth from Tel: (04) 3824 3718 Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan
Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique wrap-roll.com PHO BO
fine dining restaurant, bar and The lime green walls and bright 49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem
NAMASTE HANOI lounge blends the old with the pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are
PAN-INDIAN new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, just part of the theme of this
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, like profiteroles with green tea homegrown, Vietnamese brand Pho Ly Quoc Su
Tel: (04) 3935 2400 and café fillings, a private chef’s which is all about spring rolls PHO BO
namastehanoi.com table with a kitchen view, and of all types, and healthy, Hue- 10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem
The well-loved Namaste special- an extensive wine list combined influenced cuisine. Now with
ises in dishes from both northern with modern formal styling bring two restaurants in Hanoi — the
and southern India — using Halal a unique experience to Hanoi. second in Royal City. Pho Thin Lo Duc
meat throughout. Hosted by the SAUTEED BEEF PHO
gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost 13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
you between VND150,000 and PRESS CLUB M M M
VND300,000 and everything is CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
there, from curries and breads 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Streetfood Pho Tron
to soups and desserts. Kiem, MIXED PHO
Tel: (04) 3934 0888 5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma
hanoi-pressclub.com 3 Chi Em May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom,
Nan n Kabab Wooden flooring, paneling and PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can,
49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, bold but subtle colours pervade 18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Hoan Kiem
Tel: 0922 087799 this traditional but contempo-
Specialising in Pakistani cuisine rary, fine-dining 70-seater venue
and of course nan bread and ke- close to the Opera House. Serv- Banh Cuon Hang Ga Pho Tu Lun
babs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo ing up quality cuisine for over a BANH CUON PHO BO
tabled, laid back eatery also sells decade, Press Club boasts a bar 14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem 23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
fare from Afganistan and India. area, two private dining rooms,
In a sentence? Curry, but not as including a wine room, a library
you know it. and a vast selection of cigars, all Banh Da Tron Xoi Hang Hom
in an elegant atmosphere. BANH DA TRON STICKY RICE
6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho 44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem
NINETEEN 11
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN SAINT HONORE
The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, BOULANGERIE / BISTRO Banh Mi 25
Hoan Kiem, 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, STREETSIDE BANH MI
Tel: (04) 3933 4801 Tel: (04) 3933 2355 25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem
nineteen11.com.vn sainthonore.com.vn
Named after the completion This bakery and French-style bis-
date of the Hanoi Opera House, tro is best visited in the morning
Medical Buff Summer Safety Tips By Dr. Ian Santos
S
ummertime is always a favourite recommends kids limit sun exposure you are not biking with your child, make
for children: warm weather, between 10am and 4pm. Reserve these sure they have a buddy system in the
school holidays and many hours for indoor craft projects. event of an emergency or injury.
different activities. While If kids must be outside make sure
the summertime is usually a fun and they cover up with a wide brimmed hat Prevent Dehydration
wonderful time for them, us adults have and cotton clothing. Reapply sunscreen Make a conscious effort to ensure that kids
to worry about increased risks of injury every two hours. Use about one ounce of are more than sufficiently hydrated when
and illness from swimming and other sunscreen at each application to ensure outside exercising, and that they eat foods
outdoor adventures. adequate coverage. with high water content such as oranges,
By taking a few extra measures, parents apples and celery sticks.
can make sure that more time is spent Bicycle Safety If kids are playing in the hot part of the
poolside than bedside this summer. In Hanoi, we have issues with bike safety, day (10am to 4 pm) send them out with
namely the nature of road rules. Biking plenty of water and ask that they take
Water Safety is a healthy fun activity that doesn’t a break each hour. Teach older kids the
In Vietnam, there are two water safety necessarily have to be dangerous. Keep signs of dehydration such as headaches,
concerns: drowning and cleanliness. In kids as safe as possible with helmets and exhaustion and tingling hands and feet.
all cases of children swimming, even in strict riding rules. Also, remind kids of the importance of
shallow bodies of water, they need to be Buy helmets that have a sticker stating sunscreen — sunburn inhibits the body’s
supervised by an adult familiar with first approval by the Consumer Product Safety ability to cool itself, which can lead to
aid and CPR. To protect against unclean Commission. Always fasten the strap on dehydration.
water, make sure your children are only the bike helmet and make sure the fit is Dr. Ian Santos is a pediatrician at Family
swimming in areas that are properly snug to the head. Set parameters about Medical Practice, which is located in Vietnam’s
treated. where kids are allowed to ride. Make major cities. For information or assistance call (04)
sure they know hand signals and caution 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08) 3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh
Sun Exposure against riding too close to any kind of City) or (0511) 3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively,
The American Academy of Pediatrics vehicle, including parked cars. Also, if click on vietnammedicalpractice.com

Book Buff philosophy lite
This month Truong at Bookworm looks at books and comic strips that have successfully
brought philosophical ideas to their readers
A Boy and His Tiger — The The Canine Condition about the death of each dog necessitates
Complete Set In a bar in reading the novella, Fifteen Dogs
If we present day
accept that Toronto, Altruism
philosophy is inebriated Controversial
the discussion gods Hermes ethicist and
of general and Apollo philosopher
problems argue about Peter Singer
concerning the relative has long
things such worth of championed
as existence, humanity. altruism and
knowledge, “I advocates
truth, beauty, wonder,” said living
justice, optimistic modestly
validity, Hermes, and donating
mind, and “what it a large part
language then most of us would also agree would be like of your
that the comic strip characters Calvin and if animals had human intelligence.” income —
Hobbes are philosophers. “I’ll wager a year’s servitude,” said often much
Although the two, boy and stuffed tiger, pessimistic Apollo, ‘that animals — any more than
finished their 10-year life span in 1995, they animal you choose — would be even more the traditional tenth, or tithe — to the
are re-run in 50 countries. unhappy than humans are, if they had most effective charities; researching and
Hobbes, the tiger, was named by his human intelligence.” discussing with others which charities are
creator, Bill Watterson, after the 17th If one of the animals dies happy, Hermes the most effective or drawing on research
century political philosopher Thomas will triumph — which makes us all seem done by other independent evaluators;
Hobbes who argued that the proletariat can a bit pathetic if a one-in-15 chance for choosing the career in which you can
never govern itself because the condition of happiness is considered a fair bet. earn most, not in order to be able to live
man is a condition of war against everyone They choose 15 dogs that are in a vet affluently but so that they can do more
and that the only way for civil society to hospital and set them free, invested with good; giving part of your body — blood,
exist is to submit to a sovereign power. human consciousness. bone marrow, or even a kidney — to a
Sounds a bit like the philosophy of The dogs previously communicated in a stranger.
a host of modern governments and it manner that was essentially sparse and in The book, The Most Good You Can Do,
gained credence because the Federalists which what mattered was social standing describes effective altruists and how
in the US used Hobbes’ views when they and physical need. But the ability to form their altruism is spread. Although it may
manufactured their constitution after abstract thoughts necessitated the creation seem that Singer is advocating a radical
Independence. of a new language. This became divisive. lifestyle, he is really saying that we don’t
Calvin, the forever small boy, is named Human awareness doesn’t lend well to need to get a guilt trip about doing the
after the stern, 16th century religious dog pack mentality because it emphasizes most good possible, but simply do the
reformer, John Calvin, who preached independence and self-importance. A most good that you as an individual can
predestination and that only submission to pack needs unity and all members have to do.
the absolute sovereign could save mankind understand the world and its rules in the Effective altruism demands targeted,
from damnation. same way and know their exact place in the evidence-based giving that does the
Both main characters are often in denial hierarchy. most good to alleviate poverty and
of their basic philosophical stance and a In the same way that intelligence is not reduce suffering and the chapter that
lot of us mere human fans see ourselves spread equally among humans, each of the gets up the noses of some charitable
perfectly echoed in them. 15 dogs’ intellects were limited by breed organizations is, Choosing the Best
Those with a philosophical bent love and experience and, like humans, they had Organization, which means that you
reading the series because of the conflicts to face up to large questions such as what is don’t donate to a charitable organization
that Hobbesian and Calvanistic mindsets happiness and what is a fulfilled life. Some based on the percentage of funds used for
have when they try to impose their wanted to formulate their own philosophies administration and overheads, but rather
pessimistic values on a post modern and others’ desired a hierarchical by researching the impact of a programme
world that challenges them. Feminism proclamation. on its beneficiaries.
successfully rears its head in opposition to Overarching this thoughtful work is the It’s good read particularly at a time in
Calvin’s patriarchal determination. author’s contemplation about the virtues of history when many affluent countries are
The series is set in Ohio, Middle love. Is the core of a good life giving love cutting back on overseas aid.
America, and there are four books in the and being loved in return? For more information on Bookworm go to
boxed set. To find out who wins the bet and also bookwormhanoi.com

11 22
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Ham wordvietnam.com | June 2015 Word | 147
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Ho Chi Minh City
Business Buff / Body and Temple / Student Eye / Bar Stool / Top Eats / The Empty Wok / A World of Good
Photo by Francis Xavier

HCMC
Bakeries L’AMOUR Nam Phong Bookstore was facilitate discussion forums
BAKERY & CAFE founded at the of end 2002 about business in Vietnam.
Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, in Ho Chi Minh City as the
ABC Bakery Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072 first and only francophone
BAKERY & CAFÉ lamourbakery.com.vn bookshop in the whole of NORDCHAM
223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Vietnam. Only books written 17th Floor, Petroland Tower,
phamngulao.abcbakery.co in French are for sale, cover- 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08)
Baguettes, croissants, pizza, TOUS LES JOURS ing for all ages and tastes. 5416 0922
Essentials cakes, muffins, donuts and BAKERY & CAFE A catalogue is available at nordcham.com
brownies, this bakery and 180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran namphongsaigon.com
Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen
café all in one is a popu-
lar stop for those heading Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach PHILIPPINES BUSINESS Shopping
through the Backpacker
District. Online ordering
Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte
Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho,
PNC
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE
GROUP VIETNAM
40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Malls
available. Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 BOOKSTORE Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
touslesjoursbakery.com 2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor pbgvn.com Diamond Plaza
The background of this Ko- Parkson Center, 35-45 Le 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel:
Bread Talk rean bakery chain makes Thanh Ton, Q1 (08) 3825 7750
CHAIN BAKERY interesting reading. Estab- pnc.com.vn SINGAPORE BUSINESS
9am to 10pm
106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, lished in 1996, in 2004 they Although there are some GROUP
English-language texts in 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Cosmetics, Perfume,
Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo opened in the US, 2005 in
China and 2007 in Vietnam. this modern, well laid out Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Clothing, Accessories,
City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh,
Q7 French-styled with an Asian bookstore, the focus here Tel: (08) 3823 3046 Electronics, Café, Food
breadtalkvietnam.com touch, the bare-brick décor is on all things Vietnamese. sbghcm.org Court
A Singaporean bakery chain makes this a popular joint. Worth checking out, thought,
that is vying for the Vietnam Has over 25 locations in Vi- for the occasional gem. M M M
cake and bread market. Pro- etnam. Hung Vuong
duces Asian-friendly patisse- Clothing & Plaza
ries and cakes in a spacious, M M M Accessories 126 Hung Vuong, Q5.
airy atmosphere. Has eight VOELKER Tel: (08) 2222 0383
locations and counting. BAKERY Business Groups
9.30am to 10pm
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) ANUPA ECO LUXE
6296 0066 Cosmetics, Perfume,
LEATHER & JEWELLERY Clothing, Accessories,
CRUMBS voelker-vietnam.com American Chamber of 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
BAKERY & CAFE French–run bakery selling Commerce (AmCham) Electronics, Café, Food
2394
117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) probably the tastiest range of New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Court
anupa.net
3836 1992 patisseries, breads, quiches Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
Monday to Sunday, 9am
crumbs.com.vn and pies in town. The signa- amchamvietnam.com to 8pm
Dubbed “the local bakery”, ture passion–fruit tart is a This centrally located unique Parkson Plaza
Crumbs serves up a variety must try. boutique has been con- 35-45 Le Thanh Ton,
of baked goods including ba- AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER verted into an eco-boutique Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636
guettes, muffins, cheese and OF COMMERCE which exclusively retails the
garlic–based buns and loafs, M M M (AusCham) complete Anupa leather
9.30am to 10pm
2nd Floor, Eximland Building, Cosmetics, Perfume,
meat–filled pastries, sweet and semi-precious jewel-
pastries, health–conscious Bookshops 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, lery range as well as other
Clothing, Accessories,
breads and more. There is Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 Electronics, Café, Food
unique eco brands such as
also a breakfast menu and auschamvn.org bamboo eyewear, pendant Court
variety of sandwiches avail- Fahasa
scarves and cushion covers.
able. Excellent Australian- VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE
style meat pies. BOOKSTORE BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP Saigon Centre
40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le OF VIETNAM (BBGV) BAM SKATE SHOP 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)
Loi, Q1 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
fahasa.com SKATEWEAR / STREET 3829 4888
Harvest Baking 3829 8430
174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 9am to 9pm
AMERICAN BAKERY Selling up a good selection of bbgv.org 641826
English language books — in Cosmetics, Perfume,
harvestbaking.net Bamskateshop.com.vn
With a production facility in a range of reading areas — Clothing, Accessories,
Thu Duc, Harvest Baking fo- this multi-storied bookshop Canadian Chamber of Electronics, Café, Food
cuses on both the retail and also does stationery, toys Commerce (CanCham) Court
BLUE DRAGON
non-retail trade, cooking up and a range of related prod- Room 305, New World Hotel,
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
the best American-style bak- ucts. Has a good selection of 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
ery products in the city. Has ESL texts. 3754 Saigon Square
2210 2084
an excellent home delivery canchamvietnam.org 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi
service. Check the website Open to all nationalities, the
Librairie Francaise Nghia, Q1
for details. Canadian Chamber of Com- GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN
Nam Phong merce aims to create an ef- 9am to 9pm
DESIGN & JEWELLERY Cosmetics, Perfume,
82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) fective network of business
35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) Clothing, Accessories,
3914 7858 associates together and to
6291 8162 Electronics
galleryvivekkevin.com
This retail-cum-gallery space
specialises in contemporary
and exclusive handcrafted Vincom Center
jewellery made from hand- 70-72 Le Thanh Ton,
picked gemstones and Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999
raw materials. Exhibitions 9am to 10pm
and gallery talks run every Cosmetics, Perfume,
month. Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Café, Food
Court
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: Zen Plaza
(08) 6270 5928 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1
ginkgo-vietnam.com Tel: (08) 3925 0339
Quality, original, Vietnam- 9am to 10pm
themed tees are the show- Cosmetics, Perfume,
piece at this airy French-run Clothing, Accessories,
store. Designs are inspired Electronics, Café, Food
by anything from the Viet- Court
namese flag, local telecom

wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style M M M
imagery.
Cooking Classes
IPA-NIMA
BAGS & ACCESSORIES OVERLAND CLUB
77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
(08) 3824 2701 overlandclub.jp
ipa-nima.com The Overland Club organises
pottery classes, Vietnamese-
Airlines LITTLE ANH-EM
Japanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING monthly special activities,
37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: such as the Soba Festival,
0917 567506 pottery painting classes, the
AIR ASIA In addition to a varied selec- art of decorating paper and
airasia.com tion of garments for babies multinational cuisine days.
and children up to 10 years
old, Little Anh-Em stocks
sleeping bags and other ac- SAIGON COOKING
AIR FRANCE cessories. CLASSES BY HOA TUC
airfrance.com.vn 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 8485
L’USINE saigoncookingclass.com
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES Learn to cook quality Viet-
CATHAY PACIFIC First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, namese cuisine with local
cathaypacific.com/vn Tel: (08) 6674 9565 specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-
lusinespace.com hour lesson, conducted by
Exclusive labels, elegant and an English-speaking Viet-
sophisticated clothing and namese chef, includes a trip
CHINA AIRLINES casual high-quality cottons around Ben Thanh Market to
china-airlines.com are stocked at this boutique/ gather fresh ingredients for
café. Lifestyle accessories the class.
include shoes, homewares,
knickknacks, cameras, sta-
JAPAN AIRLINES tionery and a range of vin- VIETNAM COOKERY
vn.jal.com tage bicycles. CENTRE
Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu
Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
MANDARINA vietnamese-cooking-class-
JETSTAR PACIFIC TAILOR-MADE SHOES saigon.com
171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
jetstar.com/vn/en (08) 3827 5267
M M M
KOREAN AIR ORANGE
BUDGET CLOTHING Crafts & Furniture
koreanair.com 152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3820 2620
9am to 10pm ATC FURNITURE
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
LAO AIRLINES 268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,
laoairlines.com PAPAYA Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932
BUDGET CLOTHING 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
232 Bui Vien, Q1 Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)
papaya-tshirt.com 3840 3946
MALAYSIA atc-craft.com
AIRLINES Sells a wide range of modern-
malaysiaairlines.com T&V TAILOR designed products (sofas,
TAILORS chairs, beds) manufactured
39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) from eco-friendly materials
3824 4556 such as water hyacinth and
SINGAPORE triciaandverona.com rattan. Sells furniture for
both indoor and outdoor use.
AIRLINES
singaporeair.com U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR AUSTIN HOME
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS
0978 967588 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
THAI AIRWAYS (08) 3519 0023
Ubesthouse.com
thaiairways.com.vn austinhomeinteriors.com
This An Phu-based shop
VESPA SHOP stocks antique repro furni-
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS ture. All products are sam-
TIGER AIRWAYS 80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 ples, so it’s limited and ex-
tigerair.com Stocks a wide range of Ves- clusive with only one or two
pa-inspired tidbits and mem- pieces of each particular
orabilia including t-shirts, item. Also has a great range
riding gear, Italian helmets, of imported fabrics up on the
VIETJETAIR Respro face masks, DVDs, 2nd floor and an in-house
vietjetair.com books, bags, magazines, sewing room for cushions,
posters and more. Rental sofas and curtains. Offers
scooters and bikes available. custom-made furniture and
delivery within four weeks.
VIETNAM
AIRLINES
vietnamairlines.com

Business Buff First Jobs By Shane Dillon
JK Rowling's first job was teaching EFL
M
y first job was on a farm picking Jeff Bezos (VND136.5 trillion) had very humble be-
fruit in South East Queensland Well here is some good news for me. He ginnings. After immigrating from Ukraine
and my first job with a major also had his start at the golden arches and with his mother, he helped pay her cancer
company was at McDonald’s is now worth over US$30 billion (VND645 medical bills by sweeping the floor at a
as they opened their flagship store in trillion) as the founder of Amazon. He is local grocery store. He later dropped out
the medium size town I went to high often quoted giving credit to his time at of college to accept a job at Yahoo which
school in. And while I never aspired to McDonalds for teaching him valuable life he then quit to launch WhatsApp.
the McManagement position they always lessons.
pushed, it certainly did teach me a few Mark Zuckerberg
things about work ethics and the fact that I Steve Ballmer The exception to the rule, he has only ever
didn’t want either of those jobs as an adult. The Microsoft CEO worth over US$20 had one job. Worth an estimated US$34
So, on the first job-related theme this billion (VND430 trillion) started in the billion (VND731 trillion), Mark’s first
month, I have looked into the first jobs cake and brownie business as an assistant and only ever job thus far has been as the
of some people who became the world’s production manager. owner of Facebook.
wealthiest to see where they started on
the professional ladder. David H Murdoch Warren Buffet
The owner of Dole, the multinational Currently the richest man in the US,
Michael Jordan with a monopoly on the banana business, he started out as a newspaper delivery
Currently worth a US$1 billion (VND21.5 is worth around US$3 billion (VND64.5 boy. With an estimated worth of over
trillion), his first job was as a hotel trillion). He started out pumping gas at US$70billion (VND1,505 trillion), at a
maintenance man. Maybe that’s where the his local petrol station. Next time you are later stage in his life he bought the paper
following phrase came from: “You miss filling up your Honda take a look at the he originally worked for.
100 percent of the leaves you don’t rake.” guy and see if you can see the same glint
in his eye. J.K. Rowling and Jack Ma
Michael S. Dell And for the all the EFL teachers reading
Currently worth around US$14 billion George Lucas this, two of the wealthiest people in the
(VND301 trillion), he started out a dish- May-the-force-be-with-you George Lucas world started out in the same profession.
washer in a Chinese Restaurant. Though has made over US$5 billion (VND107.5 J.K Rowling of the Harry Potter billions
he founded one of the largest computer trillion) in the movie business. His first and Jack Ma, the executive chairman of
companies in the world, he started out in job was as a teaching assistant where he the Alibaba group. Both had their first
the kitchen at age 12. helped teach navy cadets about filmmak- professional jobs in EFL.
ing while he earned his undergrad degree Shane would teach EFL if it meant
Richard Branson at USC. becoming a billionaire in the future, too. He
Now the owner of airlines and worth can be contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.
nearly US$5 billion (VND107.5 trillion), Jan Koum com.vn
he started out by breeding and selling The Ukrainian-born inventor of What-
birds to his classmates at the age of 11. sApp, currently worth over US$6.5 billion

HCMC
CHI LAI THE FURNITURE
HOME FURNISHINGS WAREHOUSE
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
(08) 3519 4543 3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
chilai.com (08) 6657 0788
This well-known Vietnam- thefurniturewarehouse.
ese furniture brand is a com.vn
good choice for most fami-
Essentials lies with its respected high-

quality designs and competi-
tive prices. Located on the
M M M
corner of Pham Ngoc Thach Cycling
and Dien Bien Phu, the spa-
cious showroom specialises
in sofas and other furniture FirstBIKE Vietnam
such as table sets, shelves firstBIKE.com.vn
and kitchen cabinets. There FirstBIKE balance bikes for
is a large selection of carpets two to five-year-olds elimi-
as well as numerous choices nate the need for training
of curtains and accessories. wheels or stabilisers, and
support proper balance de-
velopment.
EM EM
SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) Jett Cycles
3829 4408 OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM
8am to 9.30pm 384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi
Sau, Q3
jett-cycles.com
FEELING TROPIC The showroom home of Jett
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES Cycles, a homegrown cy-
51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, cling company with all prod-
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 ucts designed in Vietnam.
Specialising in interior de- Sells up budget bicycles to
signs and landscaping, this high-end product, with the
three-storey building is so full range of accessories in
packed full of items for sale between. Also stocks GT and
that it doesn’t seem to have Cannondale.
enough space for all of its
products. The basement sto-
rey carries outdoor furniture Saigon Cycles
such as bamboo-imitation CYCLING & ACCESSORIES
and mosaic table sets, while 44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1
the second level stocks all Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08)
types of indoor furniture ex- 5410 3114
cept beds. Accessories are xedapcaocap.com
found on the level above. Specialising in Trek and Surly,
Saigon Cycles is also famed
for its Sunday morning rides.
MEKONG CREATIONS Sells the full range of acces-
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS sories and also does bicycle
35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: repairs.
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org
The Bike Shop
CYCLING & ACCESSORIES
NGUYEN FRERES 250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS Tel: (08) 3744 6405
2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) thebikeshopvn.com
3823 9459 The go-to location for all your
8am to 8pm cycling needs in District 2.
Sells a range of brands in-
cluding Cannondale, Jett, GT
MEKONG QUILTS and Aluboo, as well as the
HAND-MADE QUILTS full selection of accessories.
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: Organises regular cycle rides,
(08) 2210 3110 does repairs and rentals.
mekong-quilts.org Check facebook.com/the-
bikeshopvn for more details.
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS M M M
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65
Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115 Dental Clinics
nhaxinh.com
ACCADENT
REMIX DECO INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
INDOOR FURNITURE Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190 accadent.com
remixdeco.com
INTERNATIONAL SOS
THE FURNITURE HOUSE DENTAL CLINIC
HOME FURNISHINGS INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
Globally renowned provider
of medical assistance and in-

Body and
A Grain Obsession
Temple By Phil Kelly
I
n recent years there has been a products. Gluten acts like glue and it Is Rice Really That Bad for Us?
growing awareness that grain or gums up your internal functions causing Life in Asia seems to go hand in hand with
wheat products are not the best food inflammation. Inflammation is now rice at meal times. And compared to pasta
for us to be consuming. Even though recognised as the actual main cause of and bread, rice is a much better option! Rice
‘conventional wisdom’ from government chronic diseases like cancer and heart has a low toxic load and the storage protein
guidelines and numerous experts disease. Gluten is also known to cause in rice is called glutelin, which doesn’t have
recommend that a healthful diet should increased fatigue, joint pain, brain fog, anything to do with gluten. Therefore, rice
consist of six to 11 daily servings. irritability, depression, acne, eczema, is gluten-free.
These guidelines also state that lupus, migraines, chronic fatigue, Crohn’s However, rice has minimal nutritional
we should choose whole grains for disease, autism, irritable bowls and value — particularly white rice, as it has
more nutritional value and extra fibre. dermatitis. Furthermore, it contributes to been stripped of almost all its minerals and
However, UCLA evolutionary biologist mal-absorption issues, which results in fibre in the refining process. This means
Jared Diamond suggests that these vitamin and mineral deficiencies. that the energy provided will be digested
recommendations are the “worst mistake “We’ve been eating grains for a long and released into the blood stream quickly.
in the history of the human race” — for the time, how can this all of a sudden be the If there has been no energy demand or
reasons that refined grains and wheat drive cause of all these problems?” you ask. Well, deficit this energy will be converted to fat
excess insulin production, fat storage and what isn’t common knowledge is that in and stored. I’m not saying never eat rice.
heart disease. the 1970s wheat was genetically modified I’m saying it’s a better option than pasta,
They are allergenic, immune-suppressing to contain more gluten and produce higher there are optimal times to eat it and there
and inferior in nutritional value to plants yields per harvest. The human species are also much better options available.
and animals. In addition, whole grains was never meant to absorb all this garbage Some grain alternatives and great
are possibly worse due to their offensive gluten contained in these modified foods. carbohydrate sources of choice are quinoa,
pro-inflammatory, immune and digestive The more we mess with our food, the more sweet potato, buckwheat and vegetables.
system disturbing agents. we mess with our health. The best thing is all of these are available in
Please don’t make the mistake of your friendly neighbourhood supermarket.
Haters, Gluten is a Thing jumping on the gluten-free bandwagon Phil is founder and master trainer at Body
All this comes down to the compound and just eating gluten-free junk food. You Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763
called gluten. What is gluten? Gluten have to adopt a J.E.R.F. approach: Just Eat or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or
is a protein found in wheat and grain Real Food! through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

HCMC
ternational healthcare offers established local artists. In
full dental services in the operation since 2009, its Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists
clinic. Foreign and Vietnam- founder has been promoting
ese dentists provide high Vietnamese art for a decade.
skilled dental service. Or-
thodontics is also available.
Ope
DOGMA
nin g 015
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
An Phu Summer 2
Essentials
Maple Healthcare dogmacollection.com
DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS The home of Vietnamese
Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 propaganda art and a col-
(across from FV Hospital), Tel: lection put together over the
Tel: (08) 5410 0100 last two decades by art col-
maplehealthcare.net lector Dominic Scriven, the
Specialising in healthcare, majority of the work comes
dental services and chiro- from the war period when
practic medicine, the re- provocative poster art was
cently opened Maple Health- used to inspire and motivate.
care comes replete with the Sells prints of the originals
latest technology together and related products.
with efficient and comfort-
able service.
GALERIE QUYNH
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
Minh Khai Dental 3836 8019
clinic galeriequynh.com
international dental clinic In addition to working with
199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, artists based in Vietnam,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399 Galerie Quynh also exhib-
its the work of artists from
around the world. This well-
established gallery supports
education through talks, lec-
am Award for “Excellence in
tures and publications.
4 Vietn Dent
10 - 201 by Vietnam Economic Times istry
20 ”
STARLIGHT DENTAL HO CHI MINH CITY FINE
CLINIC ARTS MUSEUM Starlight An Phu Starlight City Center
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: 24 Thao Dien, 02 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te,
2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, (08) 3829 4441 Dist.2, HCMC Dist.3, HCM City
Tel: (08) 3822 6222 baotangmythuattphcm.vn
24, Thao Dien,Q2 Set in one of the finest starlightdental@gmail.com (Ho Con Rua - Turtle Lake)
starlightdental.net remaining buildings of www.starlightdental.net Tel: 38 22 62 22
Long–established, modern colonial-era Vietnam, this MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Dist.1, HCM City - Tel: 39 25 33 99
clinic with French, Cana- multi-storey museum houses NO.1 DENTAL CLINIC 51 Ba Thang Hai Street, Dist.10, HCM City - Tel: 39 29 09 09
dian, Belgian & Vietnamese collections spanning centu-
dentists. A favourite of the ries of Vietnamese art. Has
foreign residential commu- regular exhibitions.
nity due to its modern and
effective treatments allied
with extremely reasonable SAN ART
prices. 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh,
Tel: (08) 6294 7059
san-art.org
San Art is an independ-
ent, artist-run exhibition
space that offers residency
programmes for young art-
WESTCOAST INT’L DEN- ists, lecture series and an
TAL CLINIC exchange programme that
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC invites international artists /
Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung curators to organise or col-
Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 laborate on exhibitions.
The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong
Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777
westcoastinternational.com M M M
An international dental clinic
equipped with the latest Groceries & Liquor
technology, the comfortable
clinics offer cosmetic and
implant dentistry with a fo- ANNAM GOURMET
cus on making each patient’s MARKET
experience anxiety and pain GROCERY & DELI
free. 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630
M M M Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Galleries French–owned grocery shop
stocking a large range of
foods, organic fruit and
CRAIG THOMAS vegetables, imported beers
GALLERY and wines. Also sells luxury
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: branded products from the
0903 888431 likes of Fauchon. The deli
cthomasgallery.com upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung
Located in a quiet corner branch serves tasty baguette
of District 1, Craig Thomas rolls in a comfortable lounge
Gallery offers a compelling area with free Wi–Fi, and of-
mix of up-and-coming and fers probably the best selec-
tion of cheese and cured

HCMC
meats in town.
M M M JASMINE
45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
CLASSIC FINE FOODS Hairdressers, (08) 3827 2737
GROCERIES & IMPORTER Salons & Spas Jasminespa.vn
No. 17, Street 12 (perpen- Spa–related salon with a
dicular to Tran Nao street), good reputation for quality
Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105 AVEDA HERBAL SPA and comfort offers washes
Essentials
classicfinefoods.com Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao and leisurely haircuts from
Supplier for the city’s five– Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 VND330,000 plus a range of
star hotels, also distributing avedaherbal@gmail.com related services including
brands like San Pellegrino,
Rougie foie gras, Galbani
massage and some excellent
treatments. Sports
cheese, fresh poultries, CAT MOC SPA
meat, live seafood and veg- 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)
etables. You can now find all 6295 8926 QUYNH BEAUTY SALON Cricket astere@hotmail.fr
the products at the gourmet catmocspa.com 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
shop on location. Aimed exclusively at ladies Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321
and couples only, treatments A District 2 favourite, this is ECCS (THE ENGLISH SAIGON RAIDERS
at this Japanese spa include the salon to head to for any- CRICKET CLUB OF Saigonraiders.com
facial, body and foot care, thing from massage to hair- SAIGON)
and Japanese-style haircuts, cuts, hairwashing to nails. Richard Carrington, Tel:
as well as steam-sauna, par- 0909 967 353 SAIGON RUGBY CLUB
Cheap prices, too.
affin and waxing services. richard.car rington@ RMIT University, 702 Nguy-
market-edge.asia en Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
eccsaigon.com saigonrugbyfootballclub@
SPA TROPIC yahoo.com
CONCEPT COIFFURE 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08)
48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 3910 5575 ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET
(08) 3519 4625 spatropic.com CLUB OF SAIGON) SAIGON SAINTS
Meatworks Butchery Conceptcoiffure.vn Spa Tropic is a stylish bou- Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 saigonsaints.com
BUTCHERS Hair stylist and colourist spe- tique spa housed in the 770 038
1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) cialist Sandrine has relocated refurbished former Chilean deepteshgill@gmail.com Sports — General
3744 2565 her long-standing flagship Consulate. Spa Tropic has
meatworksasia.com salon Venus Coiffure to a villa a long-standing reputation
Focusing on the retail trade, in Thao Dien. A full range of among expats and visitors ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
the meat at this Australian- services is offered including alike for its professional CLUB IN SAIGON) saigonhash.com
managed butcher comes a dedicated kids salon. quality service. Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
pre-prepared and, if you so 973 244
wish, pre-marinated. Sells M M M gmunish29@yahoo.co.in RANGERS BASEBALL
up some of the best import- FAME NAILS SALON TEAM
ed meats in town together 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 Hospitals & isao.shimokawaji@sap-
with homemade sausages, 682 827 Medical Clinics PSSC (PAKISTAN porobeer.co.jp
free-range products and famenails.com SAIGON CRICKET CLUB)
excellent Australian grass- Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
fed steak. AMERICAN 469 090 SAIGON INTERNATIONAL
GLOW SPA CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC samie.cashmiri@gmail. DARTS LEAGUE
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: CHIROPRACTOR com thesidl.com
(08) 3823 8368 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,
PHUONG HA glowsaigon.com Tel: (08) 3939 3930
GROCERS Modern and bright down- www.acc.vn SACC (SAIGON AUS- SAIGON INTERNATIONAL
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) town spa, offers massages ACC provides effective chi- TRALIA CRICKET CLUB) SOFTBALL LEAGUE
3914 1318 lasting from 30 minutes, to ropractic, physiotherapy, Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 saigonsoftball.info
A small yet amazingly well- two-hour hot stone therapy, acupuncture and foot care 998 824
stocked store that puts includes one suite with a treatments through the use sacccricket@gmail.com
many a supermarket in this Jacuzzi bath; offers hand of cutting edge technology SAIGON SHOOTERS NET-
country to shame. As well and foot care and a hair for back, neck and knee BALL CLUB
as a dizzying selection of styling area. pain, sports injuries as well SSC (SRI LANKA saigonshootersnetball.
imported foods, also sells as all types of foot related SPORTS CLUB) blogspot.com
frozen meat and fish, fruit, problems without the need Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
vegetables, herbs, spices Hair Bar of drugs or surgery. 571 010
and a wide selection of dairy CONTEMPORARY SALON suhard.amit@yahoo.com SAIGON SPORTS ACAD-
products. EMY
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREE-
28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
PHONE) 1800 1108 American Eye Center
UCC (UNITED CRICKET 7303 1100
hairbar.vn 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 saigonsportsacademy.com
THE WAREHOUSE CLUB)
A unique themed hair salon Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
WINE SHOP where stylists use no scis- Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 npasifali@hotmail.com
15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: sors but styling equipment americaneyecentervn.com SQUASH
(08) 3825 8826 only, giving female clients American Eye Center is lo- The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
One of the busiest wine re- the opportunity to get their cated in the heart of Phu My VIETNAM CRICKET AS- Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
tailers in town. In addition hair done on the run. Of Hung, providing eye care ser- SOCIATION (VCA) 2098 ext 176
to their excellent range of course, they have to look vices to Adults and Children Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 thelandmarkvietnam.com
wines, they also stock im- fabulous, too. Fortunately by an American Board-cer- 200 598
ported beers, bottled mineral this is one of Hair Bar’s spe- tified ophthalmologist with manish@ambrij.com
water and spirits. cialities. Check the salon out 17 years of experience. The TORNADOS HOCKEY
on Facebook: facebook.com/ American-standard facility is Football & Rugby CLUB
hairbarvn. equipped with state of the 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10,
VEGGY’S art equipments for the early Tel: 0938 889899
GROCERS & DELI detection and treatment of AUSTRALIAN RULES James.chew@vietnam-
29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: INDOCHINE SPA important eye diseases from FOOTBALL hockey.vn
(08) 3823 8526 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: Lasik and cataract surgeries Tel: 0937 683 230
Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, (08) 3827 7188 to presbyopia, glaucoma vietnamswans.com
Veggy’s retails some of the Indochine-spa.com.vn and diabetic eye disease ULTIMATE FRISBEE
best quality fruit and veg Indochine Spa provides a treatments. Cosmetic proce- RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van
available in the city. Also peaceful and serene atmos- dures such as eyelid surgery LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON Linh, Q7
has a wide selection of im- phere with aromatic scents and Botox injections are also gauloisdesaigon.com Saigon-ultimate.com
ported food products includ- and lulling melodies. Cus- available.
ing USDA beef, the same beef tomers are pampered by
served up at El Gaucho. qualified therapists using OLYMPIQUE SAIGON X–ROCK CLIMBING
natural French products in Contact Fred on 0919 709 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
a clean and pleasant envi- 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 Tel: (08) 6278 5794
ronment. 171. xrockclimbing.com

Centre Medical HAPPINESS (HANH
Internationale (CMI) PHUC) ORIENTAL
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC MEDICINE CENTER
1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) EASTERN MEDICINE
3827 2366 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,
cmi-vietnam.com Tel: 0906 684 969
This French medical clinic
provides general practice
and a range of specialties INTERNATIONAL SOS
including cardiology, gyne- HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC
cology, psychotherapy, oph-
Cinemas thalmology, paediatrics and
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
acupuncture. Tel: (08) 3829 8424
Showcasing the latest internationalsos.com
Hollywood blockbusters The world’s leading provider
FAMILY MEDICAL of medical assistance and in-
and 3D cinematic PRACTICE HCMC ternational healthcare offers
sensations, chains such INTERNATIONAL CLINIC primary health care, diagnos-
as Megastar Media, Lotte Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, tic services and 24/7 emer-
and Galaxy Cinema Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848; 95 gency care. Specialist care is
offer the most up-to-date Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 available in many fields.
and modern cinema- 2000
going experiences in vietnammedicalpractice.com
Saigon. For those partial Full–service 24–hour health-
care provider with highly–
to more esoteric and
qualified doctors handling
independent flicks, everything from emergen-
smaller outlets such as cies to tests and X–rays, in–
Cinebox and Idecaf carry patient and out–patient care, SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC
little known Vietnamese check–ups, travel medicine SKIN CARE / COSMETICS
and European efforts. and medical evacuations. Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 6999
sianclinic.com
FV HOSPITAL The Australian and Cana-
Cinebox INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL dian managed SIAN Clinic
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon offers a wide range of sk-
Tel: (08) 3862 2425 South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) incare medical therapies to
cinebox.vn 5411 3333 treat problems by an expe-
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 rienced dermatologist and
fvhospital.com facial care team. The clinic
International hospital utilises the latest therapies.
Lotte Cinema whose standard of health
13th Floor, Diamond care matches that found
Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 anywhere, with 19 full–time
Tel: (08) 38227897 French doctors and 58 Viet- Stamford Skin Centre
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, namese doctors, providing SKIN CARE / COSMETICS
469 Nguyen Huu Tho, expertise in 30 medical and 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:
Q7 surgical areas, especially ma- (08) 3925 1990
ternity care. stamfordskin.com
Tel: (08) 3775 2521 Stamford Skin Centre offers a
lottecinemavn.com broad range of medical and
FV SAIGON CLINIC aesthetic skin treatments.
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Their international derma-
Galaxy Cinema 3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial tologists and doctors ensure
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: accurate diagnosis and safe
Tel: (08) 3920 6688 (08) 6290 6167 treatment procedures. It
fvhospital.com houses excellent equipment
116 Nguyen Du, Q1 State–of–the–art medical cen- for a variety of procedures.
Tel: (08) 3823 5235 tre located in District 1. Ex-
246 Nguyen Hong Dao, perienced American, French,
Tan Binh and Vietnamese doctors pro- TRADITIONAL
Tel: (08) 3849 4567 vide the full spectrum health MEDICINE HOSPITAL
galaxycine.vn care. Plus sports medicine, EASTERN MEDICINE
cosmetic treatments, skin 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
care and surgical consulta- Tel: (08) 3932 6579
tions.
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 VICTORIA HEALTHCARE
Tel: (08) 3829 5451 Hanh Phuc INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
idecaf.gov.vn International INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Hospital 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL (08) 3910 4545
Binh Duong Boulevard, Th- victoriavn.com
Megastar uan An District, Binh Duong Well-regarded clinic offering
Cinema Tel: (0650) 363 6068 general examinations and
Level 5, Crescent Mall, hanhphuchospital.com specialising in pediatrics, di-
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu Claiming to be the first Sin- gestive diseases, cardiology,
My Hung, Q7 gapore-standard hospital in women’s health and internal
Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Ho Chi Minh City, this institu- medicine. Offers a member-
tion based on the outskirts ship programme and coop-
Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A
of town is gaining a growing erates with most insurance
Truong Son, Tan Binh reputation for service and companies in Vietnam and
Tel: (08) 6297 1981 treatment. Specialises in pro- abroad.
Level 5, Parkson viding healthcare to women
Paragon, 3 Nguyen and children. Has a clinic at
Luong Bang, Phu My 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 M M M
Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5416 0088
megastar.vn

HCMC
Insurance tors, academic results puts tional school in Vietnam
ABCIS among the top 8 per- serves local and foreign
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Provides education for two to to grade 12. Talented, certi-
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and friendly environment. internationally recognised
Ontario curriculum to cre-
ate a student-centred learn-
Essentials
AUSTRALIAN ing environment promoting
BLUE CROSS VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL academic excellence. Has a International School
SCHOOL (AIS) newly built campus. Saigon Pearl (ISSP)
4th Floor, Continental Tower, 81-
85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Tattoo
9908 Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788
bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
issp.edu.vn
Set in a purpose-built cam-
Artists
of the Pacific Cross group Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; pus, International School
of companies with over 60 Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an With tattoos becoming
years’ experience in provid- Chi Tho (East-West High- elementary school cater- increasingly popular,
ing health and travel insur- way), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) ing for ages 18 months to over the past few years
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insuranceinasia.com 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Talent School and is part dren’s engagement with
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libertyinsurance.com.vn largest international school in Energized Engaged Empowered Renaissance is an Interna-
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ance, health insurance, home 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) the International Primary Saigon Ink
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tional Pre-School Ho A fully accredited IB World family school with first-class
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tattoovietnam.com
Tenzing Pacific School, authorised to teach
Services 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, all three programmes of the theatre, swimming pool,
181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, International Baccalaureate mini-pool, play-areas, gym-
(08) 3821 5367 Tel: (08) 6287 0804 curriculum to students aged nasium, IT labs, music and Saigon Tattoo
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best local and international the early years, an Inquire- Association of Schools and SAIGON KIDS
EDUCATIONAL
Saigon Tattoo
providers. Recommendations Think-Learn approach is fol- Colleges (NEASC), two of the
are based exclusively on cli- lowed, inspired by the Reggio most prestigious interna- CHILDCARE CENTRE Group
ent needs. Emilia Project of Northern It- tional accreditation organi- 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08) 81 Bui Vien, Q1
aly. It is a play-based, inquiry sations. Has over 1,000 stu- 3740 8081 Tel: 0908 573339
model in which children co- dents from over 50 different saigonkidskindergarten.com xamnghethuat.vn
M M M construct their learning in nationalities. SKECC has evolved over 10
close, respectful collabora- years to create a creative,
International tion with their teachers. This playful learning environ-
Schools Tattoo Saigon
helps us provide an environment for children ages two
ment where children take Kids Club Saigon to six. Limited class sizes and 128 Nguyen Cu Trinh,
responsibility for their own 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; highly engaged teachers en- Q1
ABC International learning, allowing them a 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) sure personal attention for Tel: 0938 303838
School (ABCIS) head start in life. 5412 5944 all students. tattoosaigon.com
Saigon South Campus 1 kidsclubsaigon.com
(Primary & Secondary), Tel: Early childhood centres in
(08) 5431 1833; Saigon South Phu My Hung offering crea- Tattoo Tam Bi
Campus 2 (Foundation Stage CANADIAN tive play-based programmes 209 Bui Vien, Q1
& Early Primary), Tel: (08) INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL for children ages two to five.
5431 1833 7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, Known for unique facilities, Tel: 0919 034383
theabcis.com Tel: (08) 5412 3456 experienced staff, high- xamphunnghethuat.
Rated as ‘outstanding’ by cis.edu.vn quality learning resources, com
British government inspec- The first Canadian interna- and small class sizes.

Student Eye School’s Out Forever By Tae Jun Park
M
any high school seniors around Last Moments fun to indulge in some already-conquered
the world are going through It seems we try so hard to cherish these Metal Slug X, but sooner or later you want
what I’m going through — that last moments partly because we fear to return to your ‘normal’ life.
‘last period’ before making what will come after them, and partly Similarly, the numerous Skype calls
the transition to another stage of life. because we fear they will never come I’ll make with my high school buddies
As graduation approaches, each day is back. The “great new opportunities” — in and the international rates I’ll spend
filled with last moments with friends, the words of all college brochures — that on fake bowls of pho will only be short
family and familiar foods, accompanied lie ahead of us are certainly exciting, but remembrances of a life I no longer live.
by the feeling that you’ll never be so I can’t help but feel that after years of But I also know that no matter
young again. And, as a foreigner who has struggling to become respected leaders of how hard I try to organise the perfect
accepted Hanoi as my true home, there our communities, we are starting all over last moment and how successful or
is an especially long list of ‘lasts’ to go again in a bigger and harsher world. We’ll catastrophic those attempts turn out to be,
through. become freshmen thrown into a strange it will not change their value in the future.
Soon, whether or not I realise it, I will new environment; we’ll struggle to find Those memories, experiences and lessons
have my last bowl of genuine Hanoi friends who will sit with us during lunch. will be reminders that some part of me
pho, my last hangout with my group of But more importantly, as soon as we get is still the naughty, fearless and hopeful
friends, my last taxi ride where the driver through the last hangout, the last meal, the teen who was able to find inspiration
giggles at my Vietnamese accent. And last taxi ride, what used to be our present and lifelong dreams from stupid pranks,
knowing that, I find myself struggling will become history. awkward laughter and the smell of broth
to make those last experiences extra I’m sure all the keepsakes I’ve gathered and herbs.
special and memorable. Lying in bed, I until now will be tucked somewhere safe Tae Jun Park is a high school senior at the
think of fancy dinners with my friends at along with my memories — and once in a United Nations International School of Hanoi,
expensive restaurants, or the craziest and while, I might even go searching for them unishanoi.org. Next year, he is planning to
funniest prank we could pull on our last in whatever becomes of my bedroom. It study engineering at Seoul National University
day of school. will be like playing an old video game: it’s in Korea

HCMC
SAIGON SOUTH RESIDENT VIETNAM website in Vietnam. Post
INTERNATIONAL Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu you’re the position you’re
SCHOOL (SSIS) Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 looking for and wait for the
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: residentvietnam.com responses. You’ll get many.
(08) 5413 0901 Also a good site for expat
ssis.edu.vn jobseekers.
Offers an American-style ed- SNAP
ucation (SAT, IB and AP) from 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien,
M M M
Essentials elementary to high-school,
emphasizing a multi–cultural
student environment and a
Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Café in Dis- Relocation Agents
commitment to well–round- trict 2, Snap offers a web–
ed education at all levels. based real estate search
service with information on
rental properties all around
SAIGON STAR the city, as well as an advi-
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL sory service for those averse
AGS FOUR WINDS (VIET-
Residential Area No. 5,
Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
to wading into the internet
depths for their needs. NAM)
5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A
Kids Classes & Sports
3742 7827
Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08)
saigonstarschool.edu.vn DANCENTER
3521 0071
Supported by the Cam- THE NEST 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
bridge International Primary 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in interna- dancentervn.com
Programme, SSIS integrates Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901 Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,
tional removals and relo-
Montessori methods into thenest-vietnam.com funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
cations, with 130 offices
nursery and kindergarten Well–known property search this modern dance studio.
globally, we can move your
programmes to create a and real estate agency with
property to and from any
stimulating learning envi- a useful website listing prop-
location.
ronment. Small class sizes erties available for rent and
allow experienced teachers sale, orientated towards ex- HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING
to cater to individual needs. pats. Website is in English, 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
French and Spanish. helenekling.com
ALLIED PICKFORDS
SMARTKIDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Build-
ing, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER
1172 Thao Dien Compound, M M M Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, alliedpickfords.com Inspirato.edu.vn
Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Recruitment & HR With more than 800 offices
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: in over 45 countries, Allied
(08) 3519 4236 Pickfords is one of the world- MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE
smartkidsinfo.com wide leaders in removal ser- 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
ADECCO VIETNAM
This international childcare vices. In Vietnam, Allied also Minhnguyenpiano.com
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26
centre provides children ages provides tailored relocation
- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
18 months to six years with services.
3915 3430

a high quality education in adecco.com.vn PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON
a playful and friendly envi- Adecco is the world leader in 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
ronment. ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY
human resources solutions. paa.com.vn
Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower,
Established in Vietnam in Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids
9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12,
2011, Adecco offers a wide in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3
array of global workforce and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and
172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, 826 7799
solutions and specialises in a mixture of private and group classes.
Q2, Tel: 0903 952223 finance & legal, sales, mar-
asiantigers-mobility.com
tas.edu.vn Asian Tigers is one of the
keting & events, IT, engineer-
largest regional move man-
ing & technical, and office. PIANO CLASSES
agement specialists, with
M M M services including door-to- Tel: 01225 636682
HR2B/TALENT
door moving, housing and morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
Property Rentals RECRUITMENT JSC
school searches, local and
office moves and pet relo-
1st Floor, Thien Son Building,
cations. SAIGON MOVEMENT
5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
CHUM’S HOUSE Tel: 0987 027 722
(08) 6288 3888
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) saigonmovement@gmail.com
3920 7237
hr2b.com
JVK INTERNATIONAL
MOVERS
1st Floor, Saigon Port Build- SAIGON SEAL TEAM
G.A. CONSULTANTS
EASY SAIGON ing, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
VIETNAM CO., LTD.
Tel: 0932 112694 Tel: (08) 3826 7655
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room
easysaigon.com jvkasia.com
2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur,
The Easy Saigon website is Focused primarily on the in-
a useful real estate website
District 1, HCMC. SAIGON PONY CLUB
ternational and local move-
helping expats to find apart-
vieclambank.com 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
ment of household goods,
ments in Ho Chi Minh City.
VieclamBank is a Japanese
JVK is a leader in the field. Saigonponyclub.com
invested human resources
Enquiries via their website
consulting company. Estab-
are welcome.
lished in 2006 in Vietnam, SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY
LOGICAL MOVES
the company focuses on re- 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
— VIETNAM
cruiting executive and senior saigonsportsacademy.com
HAPPY HOUSE 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
level, providing Vietnamese International coaches provide training in soccer, basket-
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Tel: (08) 3941 5322
and Japanese candidates
Q1, Tel: 01659 419916
with experience studying
logicalmoves.net ball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16
Specialists in international, years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth
abroad or working in foreign soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
local, domestic and office
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HCMC
Bars & Clubs GAME ON Warm colors, artsy décor and
BREAD & BUTTER SPORTS BAR a friendly ambiance combine
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) to create a perfect setting for
2 LAM SON 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6251 9898 enjoying tasty international
(MARTINI BAR) 3836 8452 gameonsaigon.com and Vietnamese cuisine.
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL With a free book exchange, A fresh feel thanks to the Gets busy at weekends with
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, and tasty Sunday night large space and light-wood a clientele made up of hip,
Tel: (08) 3824 1234 roasts, the tiny Bread & tables makes this Australi- young Vietnamese and the
On The Town
saigon.park.hyatt.com Butter is a perfect place for an-influenced watering hole occasional foreigner.
International décor blends homesick expats and beer a popular bar for televised
seamlessly with local sports, pub food, darts, pool
themes. Style joins forces
enthusiasts (excellent Hue-
Brewed Huda beer served and more. LONG PHI Delivery
with a wide-ranging drink here exclusively in Ho Chi FRENCH / RESTOBAR
menu and hip dance tunes Minh City). 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
to create one of the most HOA VIEN 3837 2704
tasteful if pricier bars in CZECH BREWHOUSE French-run but universally Ben Style
Saigon. 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) appealing, Long Phi has been Tel: 0906 912730
Broma, Not a Bar
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 3825 8605 serving the backpacker area www.
41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) hoavien.vn with excellent cuisine and vietnammm.com/
ACOUSTIC BAR 3823 6838 The original microbrewery, occasional live music since restaurants-ben-style
LIVE MUSIC Broma’s medieval rooftop- this large, wooden-pan- 1990. Excellent late-night
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: cocktail lounge conglomera- elled, brass-kegged Czech bistro cuisine.
(08) 3930 2239 tion is a magnet for the city’s Brewhouse is as popular as
Though only 1km from the it was 15 years ago when
Chez Guido
weirdest and coolest events/ Tel: (08) 3898 3747
city centre, Acoustic is well random moments. A sophis- it was first opened. Does a May Restaurant
off most foreigners’ radars. ticated cocktail menu and great food menu to accom- & Bar www.chezguido.com
Come see the Vietnamese quite possibly the best lamb pany the home-brewed beer. LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR
house band play nightly, as burger in town. Check out 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
well as performances from their bun bo Hue-inspired 6291 3686 Domino’s Pizza
overseas bands and guest cocktail. ICE BLUE mayrestaurant.com.vn Tel: (08) 3939 3030
artists. EXPAT BAR An international comfort-
food menu mixes with
www.dominos.vn
54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
BUDDHA BAR 3822 2644 excellent cocktails and an
APOCALYPSE NOW RESTOBAR Expats keep returning to extensive winelist at this
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) this smoky dive bar, largely attractive, international bar Eat.Vn
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3345 6345 due to its amicable service, and restaurant. Dine at the www.eat.vn
3825 6124 Buddhabarsaigon.com brewsky-downing atmos- bar or upstairs in the restau-
apocalypsesaigon.com Just across the lane from phere, and spirited dart rant space.
An institution and the kind of Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with games. A mainstay in the
place you end up drunk after an eccentric European tilt local darts league.
midnight. Famed for its not- Number Five HUNGRYPANDA.
and some nice, authentic VN
so-salubrious clientele, this cuisine draws an older crowd EXPAT BAR
two-floor establishment with with darts, pool and weekly LA HABANA 44 Pasteur, Q1 www.hungrypanda.vn
DJs and occasional live music poker tourneys. CUBAN / MUSIC BAR The original expat bar, this
is also famed for its hotdogs, 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) institution of a place gets
which are served up in the 3829 5180 packed every night thanks to KFC
garden terrace out back. CENTRO lahabana-saigon.com its drinking hall atmosphere,
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
LOUNGE BAR & CAFÉ Cuban-themed bar and res- attractive bar staff and Ger-
taurant selling an exciting man food menu. Has regular www.kfcvietnam.
11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, com.vn
BAAN THAI Tel: (08) 3827 5946 range of Spanish and Cuban live music.
SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE A café during the day and cuisine, as well as a few Ger-
55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) a bar at night, this kitschly man favourites such as curry
3744 5453 designed but nonetheless at- wurst and Wiener schnitzel. OMG! Lotteria
baanthai-anphu.com tractive establishment is one Nightly live music and regu- FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR Tel: (08) 3910 0000
A bar and a Thai restaurant of the few places in town ca- lar salsa classes. Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen www.lotteria.vn
all in one, the focus here tering for the pink dollar. Has An Ninh, Q1
is not just the cuisine but taken over from where the A contemporary and attrac-
a contemporary bar area now defunct Q Bar left off. LA FENETRE SOLEIL tive rooftop restaurant with
and live sports. Lots of live FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR a lounge bar just 50m from Pizza Hut (PHD)
sports. The Thai cuisine is 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) Ben Thanh Market. Features Tel: (08) 3838 8388
cooked up by no-holds- Chill Skybar 3824 5994 a glass shell modeled in the www.pizzahut.vn
barred Thai chefs. TOP-END BAR & TERRACE A seductive watering whole image of the Eiffel Tower, a
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, in a great corner location jungle-like atmosphere and
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 thanks to its old Saigon views over central Saigon.
BLANCHY’S TASH glamour, Japanese-Vietnam-
Scoozi
chillsaigon.com Tel: (08) 3823 5795
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB For the spectacular views ese fusion cuisine, imported
95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 beer, classic cocktails, and O’BRIEN’S www.scoozipizza.com
alone, Chill Skybar remains
028293 the place to go to mix top- entertaining music events IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL
blanchystash.com end, outdoor terrace drinking / DJ sets. 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
A multi-storey bar with décor around an oval-shaped bar (08) 3829 3198 Taco Bich
and atmosphere more akin with cityscapes of Saigon. irish-barsaigon.com www.tacobich.com
to such an establishment in One of the top watering LAST CALL This Irish-themed sports
New York or London. Has a holes in the city. AFTERHOURS LOUNGE bar with classic pub décor
reputation for bringing in 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) is widely appreciated for its
big-name DJs. And when we 3823 3122 excellent international fare, Vietnammm
say big, we mean big. Check EON Heli Bar lastcallsaigon.com large whiskey selection and www.vietnammm.com
their website for details. LOUNGE BAR If you’re in need of dense, upstairs pool table. Great
Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai soulful atmosphere and pizzas. And for a real treat,
Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750 maybe an artisanal cocktail check out their zesty rolls.
BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ eon51.com on your way back from wher-
MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR Breathtaking views require a ever, Last Call is your stop
9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 vantage point and EON Heli — and fast becoming that of OnTop Bar
609202. Bar is by far the highest spot the similarly inclined. Great Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba
bootlegsaigon.com in Saigon for a spectacular happy hour deals for early Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866
Reminiscent of a New York or cityscape, appealing drinks evening starters. Located on the 20th floor
London underground water- and a vibrant ambience. with stunning views of the
ing hole, this is a great place Night live music and DJs. city, houses an upscale,
to enjoy Mediterranean influ- LE PUB contemporary interior and
enced breakfasts, lunch by INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR an outdoor terrace. A good
day and a variety of DJ sets 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, venue to chill out in a re-
by night. Tel: (08) 3837 7679 laxed and casual, yet hip

ambience. mosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, THE TAVERN Settle into the Javanese-style interior and en-
a temple from the ancient Angkor EXPAT & SPORTS BAR joy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon.
kingdom, the walls are covered in R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat
PEACHES statues depicting ancient Khmer Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip,
CURRY PUB gods and kings. With ambient The first bar established in Saigon siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, lighting and town tempo music, South, great food, great music and avid coffee drinker.
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 here it’s all about good cocktails loads of laughs. Has regular live
Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this and an even better atmosphere. music nights, theme nights and
pleasant Saigon South water- a variety of live sports events to Banksy Cafe
ing hole mixes the beer with all please everybody. Big screens and 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699
things curry — anything from Goan SEVENTEEN SALOON outdoor seating add to the mix, 990003
fish curries to beef rendangs and THEMED MUSIC BAR with BBQs available for parties sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
more. A popular local haunt. 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) and events. A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a
3914 0007 young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-
seventeensaloon.com.vn era apartment building. Remember to head
PHATTY’S Wild West-themed bar doubles as Vesper Gourmet Lounge up the steep stairs within to dig into their
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS a music venue, where three tal- INTERNATIONAL secret stash of clothes and accessories.
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) ented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc
3821 0796 West and Most Wanted) play cov- Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698
phattysbar.com ers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 facebook.com/vespersaigon Cafe Thoai Vien
From its roots as the famed Café and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spir- A sophisticated yet down-to-earth 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657
Latin, Phatty’s has become the go- its and friendly, hostess style table cocktail bar and restaurant with cafethoaivien.com
to, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports service are the name game here. subtle lighting and one of the best Veer off the street and find yourself plunging
viewing emporium, showing eve- spirit selections in town. Serves straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien
rything from international cricket creative, Japanese and German- serves up a spacious and airy setting to en-
to Aussie rules and serving an ar- SPOTTED COW influenced cuisine to supplement joy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites
ray of pub grub favourites. INTERNATIONAL / SPORT the drinks. and everything to drink, it’s a great place to
111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 unwind from all that buzz.
7670
RUBY SOHO Alfrescosgroup.com VINYL BAR
CARTOON BAR Spotted Cow delivers the fun-lov- MUSIC & SPORTS BAR CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) ing atmosphere that its playfully 70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE
5410 3900 decorated black and white spotted vinylbarsaigon.com 213 Bui Vien, Q1
A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks interior promises, as well as de- A small but popular bar with all facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee
to its cartoon décor and light but cent international comfort food, a the shenanigans of the nightlife Set just off the street on the quiet end of
fun ambience. Has a reasonable range of happy hours, live sports, scene set to a backdrop of classic Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and
food menu to complement the and darts. 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and
drinks. area out back and is a popular flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat cof-
space for watching the live English fee bar.
STORM P Premier League.
SAIGON OUTCAST DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF
188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 4738 WINE BAR 38 INTERNATIONAL
0122 4283198 Stormp.vn CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; Metropolitan
Saigonoutcast.com Named after the Danish artist 38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1
Up-cycling and innovative design Storm P, this long-running bar is 3968
form the foundation for this bar / the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian With a huge selection of self-im-
arts venue / mini-skate park and community thanks to its laid-back ported wines from Bordeaux, this
graffiti space. Come for barbeque atmosphere and excellent food classy but contemporary venue
and reasonably priced drinks, menu. A good place to watch the is a wine bar downstairs, and a
stick around for entertaining live sports. lounge on the first floor. Has a
events and markets. French-Asian menu paired to all
the wines, with a huge selection
The Cube Bar of the good stuff sold by the glass.
Saigon Ranger HIP RESTOBAR
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903
5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 369798 WINE EMBASSY
7300 0559 facebook.com/thecubesaigon CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
facebook.com/saigonranger A sleek, industrial looking restobar 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
Aspiring to be a focal point for with edgy décor and just a hint 7827
artistic activities, the space at of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, wineembassy.com.vn
Saigon Ranger has been estab- Iberian-influenced cocktails and A two-storey, contemporary-
lished to create encounter and an emphasis on all things Latin. designed wine bar serving 30
dialogue between different forms wines by the glass, all at reason-
of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark able prices. Has an excellent food
wooden furniture, quirky wall de- The Observatory menu to complement the old and
signs and a stage for live music BAR, ART & DJ SPACE new world wines.
and other types of performance. 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite
Elisa Boat)
Known for its late night parties XU
Saigon Saigon Bar and focus on international art- CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR
LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR ists, Observatory is now at a bigger 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 19- space in District 4. Complete with 3824 8468
23 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) a new balcony overlooking the xusaigon.com
3823 4999 Saigon River and an even larger This iconic upmarket downtown
caravellehotel.com sound system, The Observatory is bar is known for its cocktails and
This iconic bar is a great place to a key node in the Asian under- wine list. It serves a range of inter-
watch the sun go down over the ground music circuit. national and Vietnamese dishes to
city and relax for a few drinks with be enjoyed in its richly decorated
friends. Has live entertainment six interior. Regular DJ nights.
nights a week courtesy of resident The Orient
Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR
Wednesday to Monday. 24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 M M M
facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
An attractive, spacious, brick-wall Cafes & Ice-Cream
Shrine Bar interior, a long bar, high table seat-
LOUNGE BAR ing, big screens, a pool table and
61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1 live music. A great venue for a few (a) cafe
shrinebarsaigon.com beers and more. 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao,
Shrine creates a drinking and din- Q1, Tel: 0903 199701
ing experience in a temple-like at-

Bar Stool Powers Bar
F
ull disclosure readers; I might not also reminiscent of some of the front bars with its proximity to one of the best late
want you to know about this bar. I use to frequent in cities like Melbourne, night ramen and ‘gyoza’ joints I’ve ever
Let me explain why. and grungier parts of East London. been to. It must be said that these two have
It’s not that I’m the head of some From the well-worn furnishings and been working in perfect harmony for me
‘secret social elite’ here in Saigon. Far from décor, the downstairs lounge room vibe since I discovered this gem. If I was ever to
it. It’s more that Powers Bar is mine, I’m (there is also an upstairs section for the odd write a column called Great Nights Out in
claiming it, and while I’m sure you’re private party) and the glow of its well- the City, I’d start with this combo. Just walk
not one of the ‘tanktop romeo’ types that stocked mantle, Powers is everything I like 20 metres to the right outside the doors and
line Bui Vien, nor one of the many sleazy my closest friends to be; stripped-back, you can’t miss it.
‘creepers’ this city breeds, I just can’t take unpretentious and consistent. Consistent Given its heritage, then, it’s no surprise
the risk that you are. because it also serves the best quality to find it thriving where it does. In among
Therefore, if you are, and that takes some alcohol you can pay for, which will cost the cavernous alleyways off one of the
balls to admit, please discontinue reading. you the usual amount. city’s busiest high streets, it’s an area where
Avail yourself of any of the other finely Looking like anything but a chain, turns you feel you’ve finally found the old town
written articles in this month’s issue, and out the Powers Bar concept has a couple of you’ve been missing. To get there might
stay away from Powers; I just can’t have cousins in Tokyo. “It’s all about comfort,” be the hardest thing you do all night, but
you turning my new favourite place in the says bar manager and cocktail-maker Ryo, simply turn left off Le Thanh Ton and into
city into something it’s not meant to be. a friendly guy from Osaka with a penchant the last gated hem before you hit Thai Van
for talking about his favourite baseball Lung, then veer right. That’s when you’ll
Japanese Dive Bar Heaven team the Hanshin Tigers. Just ask him spot the small ‘Powers’ sign, a glow of red
The thing that I like about this District 1 about it to get the conversation rolling. light, and possibly myself, nursing a Jack
dive is that I like a lot of things. Located in Opened a year-and-a-half ago, the mix and Coke and talking in broken English to
the ‘Japanese Quarter’ off Le Thanh Ton, of clientele is Japanese-heavy, many of my newest best friend. — Jon Aspin
going there has been like returning to a whom live in the area. This aids that sense Powers Bar is at D/C: 17/27 Le Thanh Ton,
country I only recently fell in love with. It’s of escape from Vietnam you’ll get, along Q1, HCMC

HCMC
coffeebean.com.vn touch of modernity. From
Large portioned coffee lures the rich menu of Vietnam-
customers into the flagship ese food and drinks, shows
store of this international immense local culture, done
café chain. The contempo- with a modern flare. Be seen
rary, yet generic atmosphere here at one of the latest pop-
is bolstered by comfortable ular joint in town.
seating and a menu to sat-
On The Town isfy any sweet tooth.

Mockingbird Cafe
4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
DECIBEL Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
INTERNATIONAL facebook.com/mockingbird-
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: coffee
(08) 6271 0115 Sitting atop of a number of
Decibel.vn cafe establishments in an old
Trendy without pretense, apartment complex, Mock-
this two-floor, relaxed café ingbird is just the place for
offers beautiful decor and a romantic time over mojitos,
unique original events like or good ol’ caffeine-infused
live music, film screenings, relaxation.
and art exhibits. Great prices
and food with daily specials.
Plantrip Cha
TEA ROOM
Guanabana Smoothies 8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR Tel: 0945 830905
23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 Tea, tea and more tea, all in
824830 a contemporary, quirky en-
guanabanasmoothies.com vironment. At Plantrip Cha
An American-style juice customers go on a sensory
bar and café dedicated journey to experience the
to healthy, nutricious tastes and smells of teas
smoothies that avoid the lo- from across Asia, Europe,
cal obsession with sugar and America and the Middle East.
condensed milk. A pleasant,
contemporary environment Bordeaux de Maucaillou - France - 13.5% Vol
Chateau Paveil De Luze Margaux - France - 13.5% Vol
adds to the theme. THE LOOP
HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS
49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)
HIDEAWAY 3602 6385
INTERNATIONAL Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, décor helps create the café-
Tel: (08) 3822 4222 style atmosphere at this Eu-
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com ropean-influenced café and
Hidden in a colonial building restaurant. Sells excellent
with an outdoor courtyard, coffee and if you like bagels,
the ample soft, sofa seating here you’ll be in heaven.
renders a great spot to relax.
The mouth-watering western
menu is well-priced and The Morning Cafe
maintains a creative flair. 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
I.D. CAFÉ Have a book to read? Pick
CONTEMPORARY CAFE a bright spot by the win-
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: dow and get snuggly with
(08) 3822 2910 the comfy upholstery in
Idcafe.net this second-floor cafe. With
Centrally located near Ben a cup of well-brewed cof-
Thanh Market, i.d offers cas- fee, accompanied by some
ual café dining with a wide background jazz, it is an
variety of food and bever- afternoon well-spent.
ages. Where modern design
and a warm ambience meet
for coffee. The Other
Person Cafe
2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
L’USINE Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH facebook.com/TheOtherPer-
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, sonCafe
Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Fancy being served up by
Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703 maids in costume? Call for
lusinespace.com a booking and enjoyed cus-
French-style wooden decor tomized service to your liking
compliments the spacious, while spending an afternoon
whitewashed contemporary in this candy-land inspired
interior of L’Usine. A simple, cafe.
creative menu combines
with reasonably priced cof-
fee, and a fashion store and THE PRINT ROOM
art gallery out back. Second CONTEMPORARY CAFE
location on Le Loi. 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4990
Second-storey coffeehouse
M2C Cafe offers a quiet atmosphere to
44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) chill out or read from their
3822 2495 book-nook collection. Com-
facebook.com/m2ccafe fortable couch seating, open
At M2C (Modern Meets table space and a cappuc-
Culture), everything gets a cino costs VND40,000.

Top Eats Kokoïs
L
ocated in what was a former indoor area and on the back terrace. Greys, Yet one style of restaurant that has never
furniture warehouse with a pho purples, an uncovered concrete floor and quite come to the suburbs are the sister
shop out front, Kokoïs is Thao metallic bar tops add to the look. Where eateries of Au Parc and Refinery. Famed
Dien’s latest go-to restaurant — at the ceilings have been lowered to allow for their Mediterranean-influenced salads,
least, judging by a Sunday afternoon for the aircon factor, period-style floor wraps and sandwiches, few have managed
visit. The place was packed. Mekong tilings and wall-to-wall mirrors make what to bring a version of their offerings to the
Merchant-style packed. could potentially be a cramped, enclosed hinterlands.
What sets this new-kid-on-the-block, room feel spacious. It’s an old trick, but it’s This is where Kokoïs may be succeeding
European-styled eatery apart from its effective. where others have failed. Although there
peers is the space. As spaces go, this has are at present only six salads on the
possibilities, and the French owners behind The Bistro menu, all are as creative as the next. Take
this latest venture have used it to good But it’s not just ambience that draws in the Kokoïs Salad (VND170,000) with the
effect. the customers — and here it’s fresh, light colours of its beetroot and smoked magret
Branded as a “café, bistro and store”, and airy — but also the service, and most duck replicating the purple-based tints of
the furniture store, warehouse-like look importantly, the food. the venue. Served up with strawberries,
of yesteryear has been complemented Over the past few years, District 7 and arugula, cherry tomatoes, nuts and a
rather than altered. With high ceilings — District 2 have transformed themselves into balsamic vinegar-based dressing, this
there’s a spacious, open mezzanine level destinations that can offer the same calibre is every bit as good as the offerings in
here — the design makes for an industrial of options as downtown. And the same town. If I hadn’t had ordered a tartine to
yet homey ambience in the fan-cooled variety of options. go with my salad, I would have downed
the lot. It was moreish, particularly the (toast topped with a beer or ale-based bread was sweet!
odd combination of contrasting sweet and bechamel cheddar cheese sauce). To me I’m picking up on the finest of details
smoky flavours offered by the beetroot and it suggested everything that I like about here, details that most diners would never
the duck. My only comment — a touch too creative, contemporary cuisine — you take notice. And these are the kind of details
much balsamic vinegar. different concepts and dishes, and see how that two months-worth of operation cannot
On the sandwich front, the menu you can mix them together. get under control. To make a restaurant
here boasts six types of tartine and As I discovered, the key difference here work, you need six months to a year.
three burgers, including a tuna burger between a croque madame and what I was Yet I saw enough here to know that
(VND220,000 ) and chicken and avocado offered was that everything was served on providing Kokoïs keeps on top of its game,
burger (VND195,000). There is also a top of a doorstop-style slice of thick white then this place will establish itself as
‘butcher’s corner’ focusing on meat dishes bread. Don’t get me wrong. While the another go-to eatery in the Thao Dien area
with a range of steaks and ribs served up tartine was tasty — I went through every of Saigon. And with so many restaurants
with salad and fries. A small offering of last bite — and filled those hidden stomach out there offering below-par service and
Vietnamese dishes also makes the menu, corners that only a starch-heavy dish can food, this is something the area desperately
as do share-worthy starter platters and reach, its name and description on the needs. — Nick Ross
desserts. menu didn’t match up with the offering. It Kokoïs is at 24 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC, or
The Welsh Tartine (VND160,000), just wasn’t Welsh. What served as bechamel at kokois.com. The venue has a small shop out
however, intrigued me most. The menu sauce wasn’t strong enough (did they front selling anything from products by Kepi
seemed to claim it as a French croque forget the mustard? I certainly couldn’t to Old Saigon Monopoly, soaps, candles and
madame-style version of the Welsh rarebit taste the beer) and, heavens above, the ethnic minority-made bags

The Empty Wok
Homemade Pesto Sauce with Pasta and Prawns By Riccha Arora
Photo by Kyle Phanroy
T
o me, pesto used to be one of Ingredients tossed with pasta.
those things that sounded like a Pesto Sauce
‘Genovese’ mystery. However, I — 4 tbsp olive oil, Cooking the Pasta
have since discovered that it is — 8 walnut kernels Fill a large, tall pot with water and place
super easy and fast to make. — ½ cup basil leaves over a high heat. When the water begins to
The key ingredients are fresh basil — 5 cloves of garlic boil, add salt to it.
leaves, pine nuts, Parmesan cheese and — 4 tbsp Parmesan cheese Add pasta to the water and stir frequently
olive oil. However pine nuts have always — salt and crushed black pepper to taste for the first two minutes, then occasionally
been scarce in Vietnam and are 10 times until the end of the cooking process. Before
more expensive than walnuts, cashew Pasta turning off the flame, taste it to see if it is
nuts or almonds. — 300g spaghetti or any other type of pasta cooked to your liking. If the pasta is al dente,
So in this recipe I will be using good — type you should feel a slight resistance when you
quality walnuts instead of pine nuts. The — ½ tsp salt bite into it or cut it with a fork.
textures are the same but there is a subtle — 1 tsp olive oil Take a non-stick pan and heat 1 teaspoon
taste difference. Despite the change in — 3-4 prawns deveined of olive oil. Next add the prawns and toss
ingredients, this pesto sauce remains full for 2 minutes until pink.
of bold flavours and tastes like summer Preparation Add the boiled pasta into the pan directly
on a plate. The best thing about it is you Pesto sauce from the boiled water using kitchen tongs.
can spread it over your toast, turkey Add the walnut kernels, basil leaves, crushed Allow a few drops of water in as well —
or Panini, as well as serve it up with black pepper, garlic and olive oil to a blender this will keep pasta moist .
anything from mushrooms and prawns and blend into a coarsely ground paste. Then add the pesto sauce and toss well
to chicken. You can even use it as just a Next add Parmesan cheese, salt and mix with the pasta on a medium slow flame.
dip. in well. The pesto sauce is now ready to be After mixing it well, turn off the flame.

HCMC
ASHOKA barred Thai chefs. Creatively named burgers, and curries.
Things Cafe NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN tasty Vietnamese-styled
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: sandwiches, spiced up
(08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu BABA’S KITCHEN cocktails, mains and more, CHI’S CAFÉ
Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205 NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
facebook.com/thingscafe Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 all served up with a Califor-
ashokaindianrestaurant. 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) nian edge at this small but 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
Feel the calm and serenity 3838 6661 3837 2502
of this rustic little quiet cor- com popular two-storey eatery
Long-running, award-winning babaskitchen.in close to the river. Chiscafe.com
ner tucked away in an Old This affable café is a rarity
On The Town Indian restaurant famed for This pleasant, airy Indian
Apartment. The quaint and does the full range of fare in the backpacker area for
relaxing atmosphere sets for its excellent kebabs, creamy
curries and Chinese-Indian from all ends of the subcon- BLANCHY STREET its genuinely good musical
some alone time, or quality tinent, from dosas and va- playlist. Excellent, build-
conversations held over a fare. JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN
das through to chicken tikka The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba your-own breakfasts, baked
drink or two. masala, kormas, kebabs and potatoes, toasties, Vietnam-
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793
fiery vindaloos. Has a deliv- The work of former Nobu ese fare and more. Has a
ery outlet in District 2. popular motorbike rental
M M M chef Martin Brito, the Japa-
nese-South American fusion service.
Eat Au Lac Do Brazil cuisine at Blanchy Street
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO is among the tastiest and
238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 most unusual in the city. All CIAO BELLA
complemented by fresh, con- NEW YORK-ITALIAN
3T QUAN NUONG 7157
aulacdobrazil.com temporary decor and a leafy 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
VIETNAMESE BBQ 3822 3329
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Au Lac Do Brazil is home to terrace out front.
the city's best Churrasco BAHDJA saigonrestaurantgroup.com
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 New York-style Italian restau-
The original, on-the-table menu with a wide variety of
meats from Calabrian sau- Tel: 0122 763 1261 BOAT HOUSE rant offering a range of tasty
barbecue restaurant still bahdjarestaurant@gmail. and affordable antipasti, pas-
goes strong thanks to its sage and picanha through AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
to D-rump steak and smoked com 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior tas, and pizzas. Friendly staff
rooftop atmosphere, excel- Located just above the Thai and rustic bare brick walls
lent service and even better hams. Pioneering the eat-as- Compound, Thao Dien, Q2,
much-as-you-can theme in restaurant Spice, Bahdja is Tel: (08) 3744 6790 adorned with Hollywood film
fish, seafood and meats. An Saigon’s first ever Algerian legends make for a relaxed
institution. Vietnam, passadors bring A revamp has seen this riv-
the meat skewers to your restaurant, serving authen- erside restaurant get a new and attractive setting.
table, and you, the customer tic, multi-ethnic Berber management and a new
then choose your accompa- North African and Mediter- menu — think American-style
27 Grill ranean cuisine cooked and CORIANDER
GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT niments from the salad bar. burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex
served in a traditional Alge- together with soup and salad THAI / VIETNAMESE
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Best washed down with red
wine or a caipirinha or five. rian style. Best experienced and you’ll get the idea. Ex- 16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 in a group, this pleasant 3837 1311
chillsaigon.com cellent nachos and frozen
restaurant’s soothing ambi- margaritas. A small, homely Vietnamese-
Besides the spectacular ence is matched by the own- owned Thai restaurant that
views, the cuisine at 27 Grill ers’ genuine hospitality and over the past decade has
is a real draw, with steaks AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAFÉ complimented by an array of BOOMARANG quite rightly gained a strong
and other international grill- tasty tajines and couscous- local and expat following. Try
style fare in a refined yet 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) BISTRO SAIGON
3829 2772 based dishes. Has a lovely INTERNATIONAL / GRILL their pad thai — to die for.
contemporary atmosphere.
Subtle lighting and an ex- auparcsaigon.com semi-outdoor terrace area. CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,
tensive wine list make up Consistently tasty European Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
café fare — think deli-style 5413 6592 CORSO
the mix.
sandwiches, salads and boomarang.com.vn STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
mezzes, plus coffees and BIBI@ALIBI Australian themed but Sin- 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
juices — served at a popu- 5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) gaporean-owned eatery and (08) 3829 5368
AL FRESCO’S 3825 6257 norfolkhotel.com.vn
INTERNATIONAL lar park-side Le Duan loca- bar on The Crescent with
tion with classic cream and The home of legendary great terraced seating spe- Although a hotel restaurant,
27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) French chef Bibi, this con- the enticing range of US and
38238424 green-tiled décor. cializing in huge-portioned
vivial restaurant serving international fare, all set in Australian steaks plus great
alfrescosgroup.com Mediterranean cuisine uses grill and comfort food menu
The downtown outlet of one a contemporary, spacious
BAAN THAI fresh products bought early environment. in this contemporary eat-
of Vietnam’s most successful morning at the market by ery make for a quality bite.
PAN-THAI
restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s Bibi himself. Delicious meats Decent-sized steaks start at
55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
offers international, Australi- and fish dishes together with CAFÉ IF VND390,000.
3744 5453
an-influenced comfort fare in
baanthai-anphu.com the famous tarte tatin. Has a VIETNAMESE FRENCH
a pleasant environment with daily specials board. 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)
Subtle lighting and comfort-
efficient, friendly service to 3846 9853 ELBOW ROOM
able sofa-like seating at this
match. Also has an excel- MSG-free traditional Vi- AMERICAN
An Phu eatery. The menu
lent garden-style branch at BLACK CAT etnamese cuisine with a 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
has a whole page dedicated
89 Xuan Thuy, Q2. French twist, cooked fresh to 4327
to tom yum soup as well AMERICAN
as firey larb moo and Lao- 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) order. Dishes include noodle elbowroom.com.vn
tian som tam. Thai cuisine 3829 2055 soup, steamed ravioli and The comfort food on of-
cooked up by no-holds- blackcatsaigon.com beef stew, stir fries, hot pots fer at this striking US-style

Top Eats Tapas Saigon
C
hecking the TripAdvisor listing servicio” — cheap tapas and good service? menu breaks down into ‘meat’, ‘seafood’
for Tapas Saigon, we ran into an All on a street without much motorbike and ‘other’ kinds of tapas. We tried one or
eyebrow-raise. The 10 reviews traffic? Ok, we were sold. two of each, and finished the meal with a
produced a decent overall of 4.0, Heading to the Tan Dinh elbow of District complimentary churro dish (VND29,000)
but near the top was a one-star review, 1, we stepped inside Tapas Saigon’s trim two that my gluten-intolerant dinner mates
which pointed out how most of the other floors, amid jaunty Mediterranean colours couldn’t eat. The churros were good.
reviewers were first-timers. Scrolling and eerily evocative bullfighting photos, Megan said, “If I didn’t have class
down the list, we saw this was true — which were hung at the haphazard angles tomorrow, I’d eat one of those even though
until we came to two laudatory reviews at you’d expect to find at a place with more it would make me super sick.” I had two of
the end, both written in Spanish. history. Tapas Saigon hasn’t achieved that them, as she urged me on.
Online Editor Niko dusted off his kind of aura yet, but they’re working on it. Our tapas choices included corn flour
“poquito” Spanish vocabulary and went tortinos with wild boar minced meat
to work. “Sencillo pero bueno,” he read — Plate after Plate (VND89,000). Megan was overjoyed.
simple but good. “Tapas baratas y buen Staying away from mains, the six-page “Coming from someone who hasn’t eaten
bread in a long time, they’re perfectly scheduling quirk until I bit into a rubbery the Tapas Saigon mayo-bomb. If your child
flavourful, crispy, moist and wonderful.” tentacle — which almost squeaked as I is one of those vegetables-are-gross types,
For me they were the best dish of the night. chewed my salty way through it. This was you might want to order this for him.
The “Tapas Saigon sauce” — aka, the one underwhelming dish that came The sangria (VND245,000/1.3L)?
mayonnaise — smothered patatas bravas our way. Another solid rendition, one that we drank
(VND34,000) weren’t far off from that The paella (VND74,000) is mandatory, of a tidy two pitchers of.
best-dish territory, with a perfect deep-fry course — a super-solid rendition that packs Sitting over the remnants of the meal,
balance of crispy skin yielding to creamy in the seafood, and is easily splittable even we felt full and over-stimulated, both from
potato. if it says that it’s for one person. the food and from the décor. And this, it
Less impressive were the undercooked Lastly, we got the grilled vegetable seemed to us, was the true take-home of
potatoes that came in the visually plate (VND64,000), a dippable selection Tapas Saigon — a meal as a window onto a
appealing octopus dish pulpo gallego of tomato, cauliflower, zucchini, onion, different experience of life. — Ed Weinberg
(VND74,000) — one of two octopus dishes mushroom and pepper, complemented Tapas Saigon is at 53/26B Tran Khanh Du,
on the menu. I was pretty thrilled by this with a dill dipping sauce and some more of Q1, HCMC

HCMC
diner ranges from meatball may be a bit sterile, but its chefs — come from disadvan- quan nhau, this fan-cooled and smoothies.
baguettes to chilli burgers, amply made up for by the ef- taged backgrounds and are downtown eating and drink-
pizzas, blackened chicken ficient service and excellent being trained on the jon in ing haunt is famed for two
salads and a selection of cuisine. Now with a number hospitality. Serves up tasty things: it’s on the table, NAM GIAO
more expensive international of restaurants around town. Vietnamese cuisine, to boot! grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo HUE CUISINE
mains. (marinated beef) and oddi- 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
ties such as sautéed scor- (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong
HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ L’OLIVIER pion. A great place to take Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08)
On The Town
EL GAUCHO AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN out-of-town guests. 3925 9996
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE Ground Floor, Bitexco Finan- Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le namgiao.com
74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) cial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 If you want to take friends,
3827 2090; 5D Nguyen Sieu, (08) 3915 6066 sofitel.com MARKET 39 relatives or people out of
Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879; Unit hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Exuding a southern Gallic INTERNATIONAL BUFFET town to eat Hue-style street
CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu Mixing hearty pub grub such atmosphere with its tiled Ground Floor, InterContinen- food in a hygienic yet down-
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 as burgers, salads and prime veranda, pastel-coloured tal Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai to-earth environment, Nam
6909 rib steaks with a sports bar walls and ficus trees, this Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: Giao is the place. Not only
elgaucho.com.vn atmosphere, this Australian traditional French restaurant (08) 3520 9999 is it well-priced, but the bun
A themed eatery mixing chain also offers regular has quarterly Michelin star intercontinental.com/saigon bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com
an Argentinian steakhouse promotions and a 4pm to promotions and an award hen, banh bot loc and other
theme with pork, chicken, 7pm happy hour. Excellent winning pastry team. such dishes are excellent.
lamb, homemade spicy outdoor terrace.
sausage, skewers, burger
dishes and everything that LA CUISINE NINETEEN
can come off a grill. Slick INAHO FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
service, a good wine menu, SUSHI / SASHIMI 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel,
and caramel vodka teasers 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 2229 8882 May Restaurant 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
at the end of the meal. Prob- (08) 3829 0326 lacuisine.com.vn INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD (08) 3823 4999
ably serves up the best steak A sushi bar needs a good This intimate, open-kitch- 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) caravellehotel.com
in town. chef, and the chef-owner of ened restaurant bathed in 6291 3686 One of the top three buf-
Inaho is one of the best. Sit white specialises in a mix may.restaurant19@gmail. fet restaurants in town.
downstairs at the low-key of contemporary Mediter- com Although the selection is
EON51 Fine Dining bar or upstairs in the private ranean and French cuisine. Casual yet stylish, May plac- small, the meats, fishes and
TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN VIP rooms. Either way, this Has a small but well thought es international-style wining seafoods are all fresh, and
Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai is one of the best sushi and out menu, backed up with and dining in the heart of everything you eat here is
Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750 sashimi joints in town. an extensive wine list. historic Saigon. Subtle light- quality.
eon51.com ing, comfortable seating, an
Situated on level 51 of the extensive wine and cocktail
most iconic building in JASPA’S WINE & GRILL LE JARDIN list, and beautifully crafted OSAKA RAMEN
town, Eon51 Fine Dining INTERNATIONAL FUSION CLASSIC FRENCH comfort food from Europe, JAPANESE NOODLES
offers a unique fine dining The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) the Antipodes and Asia all 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04,
experience accompanied by Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 3825 8465 make up the mix at this multi- Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu
unparalleled 3600 pictur- Alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious but tasty floored restaurant and bar. My Hung, Q7
esque views of Saigon. The Although a chain restaurant, French fare in a relaxed gar- Check out their set lunches If you fancy dosing out on
sky-high restaurant proffers the international offerings den setting within the French and happy hour. ramen and soba noodles,
the taste of Europe in Asia, here are consistently good cultural centre. The robust, then Osaka Ramen is noo-
orchestrated from the finest and creative. Excellent ser- bistro-style cuisine is very dle soup heaven. A typically
local foods and top-quality vice, an attractive outdoor well-priced, and excellent, Japanese aircon environment
imported ingredients. terrace area, and a good cheap house wine is served MEKONG MERCHANT mixes bar-style seating with
kids menu. Check out their by the carafe. INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / booths and private dining.
pepper steaks. SEAFOOD Open late.
GANESH 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel:
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN LION CITY (08) 3744 6478
38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) KABIN SINGAPOREAN info@mekongmerchant.com PACHARAN
3823 4786 CANTONESE 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) The rustic looking, banana- SPANISH / EUROPEAN
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hot- Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 3823 8371 leaf roofed Mekong Merchant 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
mail.com 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: lioncityrestaurant.com has long been the place in 3825 6924
The ubiquitous mint sauce (08) 3822 0033 Friendly, authentic five- An Phu. Set around a cobble- Legs of Iberian ham hang in
is thick and creamy and the marriott.com storey Singaporean eatery, stoned courtyard the cuisine the downstairs bar at this
curries are both authentic Offers authentic, gourmet plating up the likes of nasi includes gourmet seafood multi-story bodega serving
and smoky. Ganesh is rated Cantonese cuisine in an el- lemak, mee rebus, and and pastas. Bakery-style Spanish-styled tapas. At-
by many as the best Indian egant, classic setting, with awesome chicken curry, as Bistro out front. tractively decorated in warm
in town. Very friendly ser- striking décor and the bo- well as specialities like frog reds, yellows and oranges,
vice. nus of views over the Sai- porridge, chilli crab and fish Pacharan’s food menu is
gon River. Dishes range from head curry. MOGAMBO traditionally Spanish.
VND80,000 to VND900,000. PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
HOA TUC 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE LU BU 1311 PENDOLASCO
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba KOH THAI CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN mogambo@saigonnet.vn PAN-ITALIAN
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION 97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) The longest running expat 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
Highly rated restaurant with Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le 6281 8371 bar in town, these days 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh,
stunning outdoor terrace. Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 luburestaurant.com Mogambo is more a restau- Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282
Specialities include pink Modern Thai fusion restau- Drawing inspiration from the rant than a drinking haunt pendolasco.vn
pomelo squid and crab sal- rant serving Thai classics great cuisines of Europe, The thanks to its Cajun-inspired, Opening out into a large,
ad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, alongside tom yam cappuc- Mediterranean and The Ori- American cuisine; Tex-Mex, leafy terracotta-tiled garden
fishcake wraps and barbecue cinos and more. Koh Thai’s ent, this contemporary, Aus- excellent burgers, US-style area, this trattoria-style Ital-
chicken in ginger, onions and creative cocktails merge Thai tralian-run restaurant bathed soups and salads. Still fur- ian restaurant serves up
a lime leaf marinade. flavours with local seasonal in white focuses on whole- bished as it was 20 years quality homemade pasta,
fruits and herbs. some, fresh ingredients, with ago. risotto, gnocchi, excellent
breads, cheeses, pickles, pizza and grilled dishes. Has
HOANG YEN pastas and preserves made a second branch in District 2.
PAN-VIETNAMESE KOTO Training on site daily from scratch. A MONSOON
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) Restaurant well-conceived wine list sup- PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE plements the excellent fare. 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) PIZZA 4P’S
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Has petanque on the terrace. 6290 8899 EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
2210 2304 Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: Traditional pan-Southeast 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
If you’re looking for mid- (08) 3822 9357 Asian favourites served in (08) 3822 9838
range, aircon Vietnamese The restaurant associated LUONG SON a visually arresting setting pizza4ps.com
restaurants that just seem with the KOTO vocational PAN-VIETNAMESE within a French colonial-era This quirky but highly rated
to do every dish perfectly, training school. All the staff 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) villa, just minutes from the Italian / Japanese fusion piz-
then Hoang Yen really is the — from bar tenders and 3825 1330 backpacker area. Reasonably za parlour serves wacky yet
place to go. The atmosphere waiting staff through to the A typical Vietnamese-style priced, with healthy juices delicious pies such as tuna

curry pizza and calamari sea- RIVERSIDE CAFÉ ice-cold beer and an inter- Sorae 3836 4533
weed pizza, as well as more INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN national wine list to com- SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE facebook.com/thehungry-
traditional varieties. Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 plement meals. Has a focus Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, pigcafe
Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) on the creative use of local Q1, Tel: 0938 687689 Think bacon, bacon and
3822 0033 ingredients. soraesushi.com more bacon, all set in airy,
Propaganda Offers versatile all–day dining Set over two floors, this spacious atmosphere, and
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO of international quality, with astonishing, no-expense- you get The Hungry Pig, an
21 Han Thuyen, Q1 the bonus of being able to SEOUL HOUSE spared Japanese restaurant eatery specialising in any-
Part of the group that in- watch the action on the river KOREAN and lounge brings to Saigon thing from the bacon butty
cludes Au Parc and Refinery, sidewalk. Features western, 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) the type of environment and through to the bacon Caesar.
Propaganda serves up classic Asian and Vietnamese buf- 3829 4297 ambience you’d expect of A popular hangout.
Vietnamese cuisine in an at- fets. seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr New York, Singapore, Hong
mosphere of barebrick walls The longest running Korean Kong and Dubai. With the
interposed with Propaganda restaurant in town, with all décor comes a modern take TIN NGHIA
Art murals and prints. Saffron the Koreans moving out to on Japanese fare. A place to VEGAN
PAN-MEDITERRANEAN the hinterland, the clientele see and be seen. 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08)
51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) here are mainly Vietnamese. 3821 2538
QUAN BUI 3824 8358 Fortunately the food prepa- One of the city’s oldest eat-
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE Sporting food from around ration remains traditional. TAMAGO eries (established in 1925)
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, the Mediterranean rim, this An excellent place for group PAN-JAPANESE does some of the cheapest
Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo compact and cozy eatery dining. 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: and tastiest vegan cuisine in
Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 with pots hung from the ceil- (08) 3744 4634 town, all cooked up without
1515 ing is a popular choice with tamagoresto@gmail.com onions, garlic or MSG.
Make sure to try the sau- expats and tourists alike. SHANG PALACE Located on the main drag in
téed shrimps with cashew Reservations advised. RESTAURANT Thao Dien, Tamago has in-
nuts and crispy fried tofu PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE door and out door seating, Vesper Gourmet
with lime wedge, at this Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly a terrace and private rooms. Lounge
popular, high-quality, chicly SAIGON CAFÉ Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 They have a ladies’ night on INTERNATIONAL
designed eatery where all INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET 2221 Tuesdays as well as a Tep- Landmark Building, 5B Ton
food is served in traditional Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Ho- shangpalace.com.vn panyaki themed night on Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
crockery. One of the best tel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Featuring over 200 dishes Saturday evenings. Have a 9698
Vietnamese restaurants in Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 and 50 kinds of dim sum second restaurant in Mui Ne. facebook.com/vespersaigon
town. sheratonsaigon.com prepared by chefs from Hong Headed up by well-known
If you like your buffet selec- Kong, Shang Palace has nine chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a
tions to be big, then here it is private dining rooms and TEMPLE CLUB sophisticated yet down-to-
Quan Ut Ut gargantuan, with every type a main dining area seating PAN-VIETNAMESE earth cocktail bar and res-
US-STYLE BARBECUE of option under the sun. A over 300. Good for events. 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: taurant with subtle lighting
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) great place to catch up on (08) 3829 9244 and a great spirit selection.
3914 4500 your seafood addiction or to Templeclub.com.vn Serves creative, Japanese
facebook.com/quanutut pig out over a Sunday brunch. SKEWERS Once a hotel for Indian dig- and German-influenced
It’s a no-brainer, right? Amer- INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN nitaries visiting old Saigon, cuisine to supplement the
ican-style barbecue in a con- 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: the elegant and atmos- drinks and has a separate
temporary Vietnamese, quan San Fu Lou (08) 3822 4798 pheric Temple Club is one dining space.
nhau-style setting. Of course CANTONESE KITCHEN skewers-restaurant.com of the city’s best-preserved
it is, which is why Quan Ut Ground Floor, AB Building, Simple, unpretentious Greek- buildings. Serving quality
Ut is constantly packed with 76A Le Lai, Q1 influenced, international cui- Vietnamese and Indochine Wrap & Roll
grill-obsessed diners going Tel: (08) 3823 9513 sine ranging from the zucchini cuisine at reasonable prices. 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
for the burgers, meats off sanfulou.com carpaccio through to the sa- 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue,
the barbecue and Platinum Open until 3am, this popu- ganiki, a range of dips, mou- Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226
pale ale served on tap. lar, contemporary Cantonese saka, osso buco and lamb THE DECK De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837
dining hall mixes contempo- chop skewers. Also has an MODERN ASIAN FUSION 5097
rary with traditional, in a excellent upstairs cigar room. 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) wrap-roll.com
REFINERY space that takes Chinese 3744 6632 The lime green walls and
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL dining in Saigon to a new thedecksaigon.com bright pastel colours of Wrap
The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, level. And if you like your SHRI Set on the banks of Saigon ‘n Roll are just part of the
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 dim sum, look no further. CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN River across from Thanh Da theme of this homegrown,
therefinerysaigon.com 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, Island, this innovative res- Vietnamese brand which is
A slightly retro feel pervades 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, taurant serves up modern all about spring rolls of all
this popular French-style bis- SCOTT AND BINH’S Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 Asian fusion cuisine in a types, and healthy, Hue-
tro and wine bar which once INTERNATIONAL A breezy terrace, indoor bar Bali-style atmosphere, com- influenced cuisine.
housed the city’s opium re- 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My and separate dining room plemented by great cocktails
finery. The cuisine runs from Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465 with sweeping views over and a long wine list.
creative salads through to bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ central Saigon make up YU CHU
Mediterranean influenced scottbinhs.php this enormous, comfortable TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
mains. Serving creative, all home- space. A well-thought out THE HUNGRY PIG 1st Floor, InterContinental
made comfort food, this and romantic venue, with BACON BAR / CAFE Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
restaurant boasts a full bar, excellent food. 144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) Trung & Le Duan, Q1

A World Not All Profit is Equal
of Good By Dana McNairn
The photo op... Angelina Jolie in her role as UNHCR Goodwill Ambassador
W
e’ve been told that you inconvenient, but necessary expense. CSR hire the disabled, but at the end of the day
cannot make money while is a cost centre, not a profit centre. this is an economic constraint that just raises
helping the poor because that Indian steel magnate Jamsetji Tata felt costs and eats profit. Or so the thinking
is morally repugnant. But I differently. “In a free enterprise,” he said at goes. But shared value isn’t an imposition
believe you can ‘do well’ by ‘doing good’ and the turn of the last century, “the community of personal values or wealth redistribution.
balance a social agenda with a profit agenda. is not just another stakeholder to business, Shared value simply means addressing
There’s an old idea kicking around in a but is in fact the very purpose of its a social issue or problem with a business
new set of shoes, and that old-new idea is existence.” Tata believed businesses can model. (This is also a great definition
about creating shared value. This column only be sustainable if they served a larger for social enterprise). Can we look at
is a riff on a recent speech I gave about purpose in society. But non-profits and for- energy inefficiency, slum dwellings, dirty
corporate social responsibility (CSR) and profits continue to focus on efficiency. How drinking water and unemployed youth as a
the theories of Harvard professor Michael many widgets produced or how many productivity driver, not as photo-ops?
Porter. Whether you’re running a non- bicycles delivered to poor kids? Why not CSR too often targets the symptoms,
profit or a for-profit, you need to care about think instead about innovation in market not the causes of poverty and inequality.
shared value. development and product design? If non-profits now embrace microfinance
As a for-profit you likely have some The strongest competitors establish the and impact investing, then for-profits
CSR in place: poverty-alleviation projects deepest roots in their communities. What can embrace shared value as a better
you support, environmental metrics you do those communities say about what understanding of competition and
use and codes of conduct you have in products and services they need? My economic value creation. Shared value isn’t
place. But what you’re still up against is development project is only going to work philanthropy; it’s self-interested behaviour.
the granddaddy of neoliberal economists, if I put deep roots into the communities I’d even call it enlightened self-interest, but
Milton Friedman, who said “the only and populations I work with. A valid that’s a really old idea.
business of business is business”. criticism of development — and especially Business as usual is not an option. The cost
humanitarian work — is helicoptering in, of inaction is disproportionately higher than
The Business of Being Good dropping off the emergency food and tents, the cost of action and the longer we wait,
How does being socially responsible posing for some grip-and-grin photos and the more expensive fixing things will be. We
fit in with the profit-driven model? you’re out. We call those parachute projects. need to stop thinking about ‘social’ as being
CSR programmes typically remain a And in some ways, that also looks a lot good, ‘doing good’ or even being responsible,
reactionary response to external pressures like CSR. and look at it instead as ‘opportunity’.
like protesting customers. Too many CSR Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, a non-
programmes are an exercise in feel-good Enlightened Self-Interest profit social enterprise and vocational training
publicity, and as such are considered an Put in a health and wellness programme or programme for at-risk youth

Tel: (08) 3520 9999 Banh Mi Thanh
intercontinental.com/saigon Mai Hoang
Skillful chefs prepare au- VIETNAMESE BANH MI
thentic hand-pulled noodles, 107 Truong Dinh, Q3
fresh dim sum and hot wok
dishes within an impeccably
designed open kitchen, as Banh Tam Bi To Chau
diners look on. Stylish and BANH TAM
spectacular. 271 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Zeus BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

GREEK / KEBAB VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh
3837 3248 Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi
The service is often slow, and Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
the staff are often surpris- Namsonsteak.com
ingly lazy, yet the food here
is so good and so unique to
this city, that no-one seems Bun Cha Ha Noi
to mind. The perfect place BUN CHA
to feast out on gyros and all 26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1
things off a skewer. Cheap,
too.
Chi Thong
BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI
ZOOM CAFÉ 195 Co Giang, Q1
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 3897 Com Ga Xoi Mo Su Su
vietnamvespaadventures. VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN
com/cafe_zoom 55 Tu Xuong, Q3
This corner-located Vespa-
infatuated venue is a café
and restaurant by day and Com Tam 40A
a sidewalk drinking joint COM TAM
by night. Friendly staff and 40A Quoc Huong, Q2
American deli-style and Ca-
jun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt. Mi Quang My Son
MI QUANG
38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
M M M
Street Food Nam Giao
BUN BO HUE
189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1
Ba Ghien
COM TAM
84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan Pho Dau
PHO BO
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Ba Nam Q3
BO KHO
Alleyway to the left of 162
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PHO BO & PHO GA
260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
Banh Canh Hoang Ty 3829 7943
BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE
70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
Pho Le
PHO BO
Banh Cuon Hai Nam 413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5
BANH CUON
11A Cao Thang, Q3
Word has teamed up with the Mai Nha Children Foundation to
Pho Phu Gia help 20 orphan children to grow up as a family and prepare
PHO BO for their future.
Banh Khot Co 146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3
Ba Vung Tau
BANH KHOT Based north of Mui Ne in Central Vietnam, the foundation
102 Cao Thang, Q3 Pho Phu Vuong provides the children with a home, a family and an education.
PHO BO
339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh
Banh Mi Hong Hoa To help fund this programme, for every copy of our Word you
VIETNAMESE BANH MI
62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Sushi Ko get delivered direct to your door, we will donate VND50,000
STREET SUSHI to Mai Nha.
122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4
Banh Mi Huynh Hoa
‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI At VND120,000 per month (minimum of six months), this is a
26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 The Lunch Lady small price to pay to help those in need.
DAILY CHANGING DISHES
23 Hoang Sa, Q1
Banh Mi Sau Minh To arrange your home delivery, simply email
VIETNAMESE BANH MI
170 Vo Van Tan, Q3 TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
trang@wordvietnam.com
HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: For more information on Mai Nha, click on mai-nha.org
(08) 3821 7751

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Xo
i
Tiêng Viêt
Khẩu Trang
Nghệ Thuật
Khẩu trang đã trở thành tác phẩm nghệ thuật
T
rước khi chuyển đến Việt Tú nói: "Vogmask là khẩu trang
Nam, tôi đã quen với việc phong cách, hiệu suất cao, dễ thở và
chạy vòng vòng ngoài trời. tái sử dụng đầu tiên cho công cộng
Tuy nhiên, vì chất lượng trên thế giới."
không khí xấu, tôi không còn làm Một tuyên bố hơi quá.
điều đó nhiều như tôi đã từng. Mỗi Nhưng cô ấy có cái lý của mình.
khi lái xe vòng quanh thành phố, tôi Dòng có lớp lọc N99, lớp giữa của
co rúm người lại khi nghĩ đến các khẩu trang, là lớp vải dật bằng các
độc tố tôi hít phải mỗi khi ra khỏi sợi nano có thể lọc hơn 99 phần
nhà. Tuy nhiên, tôi vẫn không thể trăm của các hạt có kích thước lớn
mua cho mình một cái khẩu trang. hơn 0,3 micron. Có nghĩa là, không
Vấn đề là khẩu trang không đủ những tuổi thọ của khẩu trang bền,
tiêu chuẩn để làm một phụ kiện mà nó hoàn thành tốt công việc
thời trang. Và những bộ sưu tập bảo vệ bạn khỏi những khí thải từ
khẩu trang ở đây thì tệ quá. những chiếc xe buýt to còi hơn so
Liệu tôi muốn trông giống như ... với một khẩu trang được mua từ
1) Tôi vừa mới xuất viện và đang một người bán rong trên đường.
dần hồi phục từ một căn bệnh chết
người? Nghệ Thuật Mặc Được
2) Một ninja? Loại khẩu trang này như là một
3) Hoặc như phiên bản nữ của hiện tượng thời trang đã vinh dự
Darth Vader? xuất hiện trên sàn catwork. Nhà
Bảo vệ sức khỏe hay có một thiết kế kiêm nghệ sỹ vẽ tranh trên
phong cách thời trang tốt? Tôi biết cơ thể ở Bắc Kinh, Nina Griffee,
nó có vẻ khủng khiếp, nhưng tôi đã kết hợp các thiết kế mặt nạ
chỉ muốn đối phó với khí thải. Vogmask vào bộ sưu tập Xuân Hè
của cô cho Tuần Lễ Thời Trang
Vog Gì? Hồng Kông vào đầu tháng Bảy.
Vì vậy, khi tôi nghe nói về một Nhưng quan trọng hơn là bộ sưu
công ty khẩu trang đang sản xuất tập khẩu trang với màu sắc và mẫu
loại khẩu trang tái sử dụng hữu cơ có sẵn — hiện tại có 35 lựa chọn cho
nhưng mang tính thời trang. Tôi người yêu thích thời trang. Từ nhiều
thấy thú vị. màu sặc sỡ đến một màu hay in
"Tôi đã xem qua Vogmask ở hình nàng tiên cá và một loạt các sắc
Singapore và bị hấp dẫn. Lớp vải đồng màu cùng các phụ liệu đi kèm,
lọc khí được khâu vào khẩu trang, giá dao động từ 86,000 đồng cho các
có một chiều van thở ra và có thể phụ kiện dây đeo đầu đến 860,000
lọc 99,978 phần trăm tất cả các chất đồng cho khẩu trang da thuần.
gây ô nhiễm trong không khí. Thiết Sử dụng khẩu trang thời trang
kế tinh tế làm cho sản phẩm có không phải là để giảm chất lượng
các phần tách rời," Cindy Tú, nhà không khí đang phát triển tại Việt
phân phối Vogmask tại Việt Nam Nam. Và trừ khi bạn đeo nó ở mọi
cho biết. thời điểm, nó cũng không giúp gì
Xuất hiện từ San Francisco, với ô nhiễm không khí trong nhà,
Vogmask giờ đã đến khắp châu Á. và điều đó tồi tệ hơn tình trạng ô
Nó đã không đến được Việt Nam nhiễm ở ngoài trời. Nhưng chắc
cho đến khi Tú liên lạc với người chắn nó sẽ giúp cho chính bạn —
đồng sáng lập Vogmask và trở có phong cách — bảo vệ khỏi tất
thành nhà phân phối địa phương. cả những chất gây ô nhiễm không
Trang web của cô, vogmask.vn, đã mong muốn ở ngoài kia — Rachel
được đưa ra vào hoạt động từ đầu Cabakoff
tháng Năm. Để biết thêm thông tin xin ghé
Vì vậy, cái gì làm Vogmask bỏ xa vogmask.vn hoặc facebook.com/
các đối thủ được bán trên lề đường? vogmask.vn

Lễ
Hội
ASEAN
Pride
Phiên
Bản
2.0
Hình ảnh bởi Aidan Dockery

Lễ hội âm nhạc được nhiều
người yêu thích hàng năm ở
Hà Nội sẽ được tổ chức tại
American Club
N
ếu cái nóng đổ mồ hôi của Nick Greenfield từ CAMA cho biết: đình', vì họ đã xác định đó là một trong
mùa hè không là vấn đề gì, và "ASEAN Pride nhằm mục đích giới những thách thức lớn nhất đối với một
tất cả điều bạn quan tâm là thiệu chất lượng và sự đa dạng của các người LGBT tại Việt Nam: khắc phục
một số cảm xúc sung sướng nghệ sĩ mới nổi của khu vực, trong khi rào cản công khai giới tính thật với gia
cùng nhạc sống, thì lễ hội âm nhạc tạo ra một không gian an toàn để ăn đình," ông nói.
ASEAN Pride vào ngày 20/6 có thể làm mừng sự đa dạng giới tính. Nó đã trở "Trong nhiều năm qua, phái đoàn Hoa
bùng cháy phong cách bụi bặm đường thành một trong những điểm nổi bật Kỳ đến Việt Nam đã thúc đẩy thực hiện
phố Hà Nội của bạn. âm nhạc của năm. " quyền LGBT và muốn lễ hội này truyền
Trong khi lễ hội năm ngoái đã thu Lễ hội cũng sẽ góp phần chào mừng tải thông điệp bạn là ai hoặc yêu ai
hút một lượng 4.000 người tham gia, tất kỷ niệm 20 năm bình thường hóa mối không là vấn đề gì, ai cũng cần được đối
cả với mục đích nâng cao nhận thức về quan hệ giữa Hoa Kỳ và Việt Nam. Như xử bình đẳng và tôn trọng."
vấn đề LGBT, lễ hội năm nay cũng sẽ Ngoại Trưởng John Kerry đã tuyên bố: Đại Sứ Mỹ tại Việt Nam, Ted Osius,
tuyệt vời như thế, nếu không thể tuyệt "Không có hai nước nào đã làm việc người cũng sẽ tham gia lễ hội vào ngày
vời hơn. Với một đại gia đình các ngôi chăm chỉ hơn, làm được nhiều hơn, và 20/6, cho biết lễ hội là một phần quan
sao đang nổi trong cùng ngành, 13 nghệ làm tốt hơn để cố gắng hàn gắn cả hai trọng trong nỗ lực của chính phủ Mỹ
sỹ hay nhất đến từ khắp nơi ở khu vực với nhau và ... thay đổi tương lai." ủng hộ sự bình đẳng cho người đồng
Đông Nam Á sẽ biểu diễn tại American tính ở nước ngoài.
Club (19-21 Hai Bà Trưng, Hoàn Kiếm, Đa Dạng và Chấp Nhận "Tôi đã đến nhiều trường và thực sự
Hà Nội), bao gồm các nghệ sỹ chủ chốt, Đã ba năm kể từ khi buổi diễu hành Viet thú vị là có những bạn trẻ — ngay cả chỉ
nữ hoàng Mỹ-Việt của indie-rock, Thảo Pride đầu tiên tại Việt Nam, nó đã chứng ở trung học — những người có đủ can
Nguyễn & nhóm Get Down Stay Down. kiến hàng trăm người đi xe đạp trên đảm đứng trước 600 đến 800 người và
Người đam mê âm nhạc cũng có thể người khoác miếng vải cầu vòng đạp xe đặt câu hỏi nếu bạn đồng tính thì sẽ có
cháy hết mình với dòng nhạc pop quyến qua các con đường của thủ đô. Những những khó khăn gì. Thông điệp của tôi
rũ của nữ nghệ sỹ chuyển giới Hương sự kiện như ASEAN Pride nhằm thúc cho họ và tất cả các bạn cùng lớp không
Giang Idol, O.J. Law của Malaysia, đẩy phát triển cộng đồng chấp nhận sự đồng tính của họ là được là chính mình
nữ rocker Yellow Yang của Thái Lan, đa dạng. — nếu bạn muốn nếu bạn muốn được
COCC của Sài Gòn, Tô Lâm và nhóm Michael Turner, nhân viên phụ trách hạnh phúc, thì không có cách nào khác."
nhảy trên giầy cao gót, DJ Lotus Disco văn hóa tại Đại sứ quán Mỹ tại Hà Nội, Để biết thêm thông tin về lễ hội
và các nghệ sỹ khác. Và đối với những cho biết lễ hội nhằm mục đích nắm bắt ASEAN Pride 2.0, xin vào trang
người tìm các hoạt động nghệ thuật thú năng lượng và sự năng động của cộng facebook của ASEAN Music Festival
vị khác có thể thưởng thức tại không đồng hoặc ghé camavietnam.org. Vé được
gian nghệ thuật chuyên dụng, chợ các LGBT địa phương ở Việt Nam và bán trực tuyến tại ticketbox.vn hoặc tại
sản phẩm địa phương cùng nhiều thức trong khu vực ASEAN nhằm giúp nâng CAMA ATK, House of Sơn Tinh và Cơm
ăn đồ uống ngon tuyệt sẽ giữ chân bạn cao nhận thức về sự bình đẳng LGBT. Gà Café. Lễ hội sẽ khai mạc vào lúc
tới tận khuya. "Năm ngoái, chủ đề là 'ăn mừng sự đa 13:00 và kéo dài đến 23:00. Để biết thêm
Được Đại Sứ Quán Hoa Kỳ tại Hà dạng, năm nay [cộng đồng LGBT trong thông tin về Đại Sứ Hoa Kỳ, Ted Osius,
Nội và CAMA Việt Nam đồng tổ chức, nước] đã đưa ra với chủ đề 'kỷ niệm gia chuyển đến trang 181."

Tiêng Viêt

Vị Đại Sứ Hội Chợ Hà Nội
Chủ Nhật 7/6
Eden Garden, Tây Hồ
Luôn mong muốn hòa mình vào các sự kiện ngoại giao, Hội Chợ Hà Nội đã quay trở lại với phiên bản
lớn nhất từ trước tới nay: Sắc Màu Hà Nội.
David Mann đã có dịp gặp vị Đại Sứ Mỹ, Ted Osius, để nói Được tổ chức tại Eden Garden (cuối phố Âu
Cơ, số 264, Tây Hồ) mới mở, hội chợ lần này
về các vấn đề ngoại giao cũng như cuộc sống hàng ngày ở sẽ giới thiệu nhiều gian hàng thời trang với
nhiều sản phẩm, các quầy hàng đồ cổ, thức
Việt Nam. Hình ảnh bởi Julie Vola ăn tự nấu ở nhà, nhạc sống cùng những quán
R
ăn giúp bạn giải trí trong các ngày Chủ Nhật
ất ít người nước ngoài biết về Việt Nam đáp hậu hĩnh, khiến ông có được gần 12,000 người buồn tẻ. Ngoài ra còn có Timeclub, khu vực
như Ted Osius, một người xứ Maryland, hâm mộ trên Facebook kể từ khi đến Việt Nam vào vui chơi giải trí dành cho trẻ em, với nhiều trò
người đầu tiên đặt chân lên đất Việt như tháng Mười Hai năm ngoái. chơi cùng các hoạt động giúp các bé bận bịu
một nhà ngoại giao trẻ cho Đại Sứ Quán "Thực tế là chúng tôi đang gắn kết với hàng ngàn trong khi bạn có thể ngồi xuống thưởng thức
Hoa Kỳ vào năm 1996. Đó là khi ông có thể đạp người trẻ tuổi trên Facebook, điều đó là không thể những ly bia mát lạnh của mình. Trông có vẻ
xe quanh thành phố như là một kẻ vô danh và thực trước đây. Bây giờ internet giúp con người cởi mở thú vị, phải không?
hành tiếng Việt của mình với những người bán hơn trong các cuộc thảo luận, trong cam kết với Vé hiện được bán với giá 50,000 đồng tại
hàng rong. nhau về những gì trong tương lai họ muốn có." ticketbox.vn hay Timeclub. Trẻ em dưới 12 tuổi
"Ở miền Bắc, người ta nói tôi có vẻ giống như được miễn phí. Số lượng vé có hạn. Để biết thêm
người miền Nam, còn miền Nam thì người ta nói Cuộc Sống Gia Đình chi tiết, xin ghé trang facebook của Hanoi Urban
tôi giống người miền Bắc. Lúc đó đa số chỉ có xe Đối với một đất nước còn ngỡ ngàng với vấn đề đa Flea Market.
đạp, chẳng có nhiều xe gắn máy như bây giờ”, ông dạng giới tính, Đại Sứ Osius cho hay Việt Nam đã
nhớ lại. chấp nhận ông cùng người chồng Clayton Bond và Đêm Nhạc Thụy Điển
Giai đoạn khi Osius được báo chí lần đầu tiên hai con nhỏ của họ là Tabo, 16 tháng, và Lucy, mới Thứ Năm 11/6
nhắc tới là lúc bắt đầu mối quan hệ mới của hai đất sinh ra vào đầu năm nay. CAMA ATK, Hai Bà Trưng
nước. Đó là khi mối quan hệ đạt được những lợi ích “Tôi là Đại Sứ Hoa Kỳ đồng tính đầu tiên ở Đông
đáng kinh ngạc và không tưởng tượng được trong Nam Á. Chỉ vài năm trước đây thôi, đây là điều Nhờ sự kết hợp lần đầu tiên giữa CAMA Việt
hai thập kỷ sau khi mối quan hệ được bình thường không thể,” ông nói. Nam và Đại Sứ Quán Thụy Điển, mà giờ đây
hóa và lệnh cấm vận thương mại được gỡ bỏ. “Khi tôi còn làm ở phòng dịch vụ đối ngoại, tôi bạn sẽ có cơ hội thả hết sức mình hòa nhịp
Giờ đây, Osius trở lại với một trải nghiệm khác. không dám công khai vấn đề của mình. Bây giờ thì cùng chương trình ca nhạc Thụy Điển. Đêm
Không chỉ vì Việt Nam đã thay đổi nhiều, nhưng do khác rồi, tôi có một người chồng và hai đứa con, nhạc sẽ bao gồm bộ đôi electro Deer Tracks,
ông đang là đại sứ chính thức của Hoa Kỳ tại một được phục vụ ở một đất nước tôi biết khá rõ. Tôi có nhóm nhạc folk Twiggy Frostbile nổi tiếng và
điểm then chốt trong mối quan hệ song phương, thể bị đánh giá dựa trên giá trị và khả năng trong Adora Eye, được xem như là đứa con thất lạc
với mối quan hệ đối tác toàn diện đặt nền móng công việc, không phải dựa trên việc gia đình tôi từ lâu của Bob Dylan và Tom Waits.
cho quan hệ chính trị, kinh tế và chiến lược được trông như thế nào. Đó là điều mới mẻ và mạnh mẽ.” Đêm nhạc Thụy Điển sẽ được tổ chức tại
gần gũi hơn, mà nó có vẻ không giống như 20 năm Osius cũng muốn gia đình mình hòa mình vào CAMA ATK, 73A Mai Hắc Đế, Hai Bà Trưng.
trước. văn hóa Việt Nam càng nhiều càng tốt, với mục đích Giá vé là 150,000 đồng tại cửa và 80,000 đồng
"Đối với tôi giấc mơ trở thành sự thật khi được là con của ông sẽ có cùng sợi dây kết nối giống như cho mua trước. Để biết thêm chi tiết, xin ghé
trở lại. Tôi đã làm việc ở đây từ năm 1996 tới năm ông đã có với Việt Nam. trang facebook của CAMA ATK.
1998 và tôi có thể nói ngôn ngữ ở đây, do đó, nó "Chúng tôi có những người Việt tuyệt vời [làm
giống như một sự trở về nhà. Và thật tuyệt khi được việc với chúng tôi], những người như là một phần Nón
ở đây ngay bây giờ để đặt nền tảng cho một mối của đại gia đình và yêu mến con của chúng tôi. Con Thứ Bảy 13/6
quan hệ mới”, ông nói. cái chúng tôi sẽ nói tiếng Việt đầu tiên và tôi rất IDECAF, Q1
hạnh phúc về điều đó”, ông nói.
Mối Quan Hệ Vững Mạnh Với một sự nghiệp dài 27 năm hoàn hảo trong Kết hợp xu hướng cũ và mới đang phổ biến
Đó là mối quan hệ mới được thành lập dựa trên ngành ngoại giao Mỹ, Osius đã phục vụ ở Jakarta, ở Việt Nam, buổi trình diễn múa đương đại
chín điểm mấu chốt hợp tác được đặt ra bởi Chủ New Delhi, Bangkok và Manila. Việc tập trung Nón sẽ được diễn tại IDECAF vào ngày 13/6.
Tịch Trương Tấn Sang và Tổng Thống Obama vào vào châu Á là một việc có chủ ý và được ông lên kế Dàn dựng bởi Vũ Ngọc Khải, Nón là một dự
năm 2013, từ giáo dục đến môi trường. Đại sứ Osius hoạch từ ngay ngày đầu tiên. án kết hợp múa đương đại với âm nhạc truyền
nói công việc của ông là làm cho tầm nhìn đầy tham "Vấn đề da dạng giới tính đang xảy ra ở Châu Á, thống Việt Nam và là công việc không chỉ của
vọng này thành hiện thực . tôi đã quyết định là sẽ dành sự nghiệp của mình ở Khải, nhưng của cả nhạc sỹ đàn nhị, Ngô Hồng
"Tổng Thống Obama đã yêu cầu tôi mở rộng châu Á khi mới tới đây. Tôi không bao giờ nhìn lại, Quang.
quan hệ, làm cho mối quan hệ đối tác có khuôn khổ và chưa bao giờ hối tiếc", ông giải thích. Lấy cảm hứng nghệ thuật từ nền văn hóa
này trở thành hiện thực. Tôi muốn nhìn thấy một Nhưng Việt Nam, ông nói, sẽ luôn luôn là ngôi Việt Nam như nón lá, đất, nước, bánh chưng,
mối quan hệ sâu sắc về giáo dục, thương mại và nhà thứ hai của mình. bánh giầy và các nhạc cụ truyền thống, sự
kinh tế, nhân quyền, an ninh, môi trường, khoa học “Đối với tôi giấc mơ đã trở thành hiện thực. Điều kết hợp của múa đương đại và nhạc dân gian
công nghệ và y tế.” mà tôi yêu ở đất nước này là con người ở đây thân không chỉ tạo ra một hình ảnh văn hóa Việt mà
"Tôi tin rằng chúng tôi đang phát triển một tầm thiện, ấm áp và luôn chào đón. Tôi yêu đất nước này còn minh họa âm nhạc của đất nước này.
nhìn chung về những gì trong 20 năm tới. Nó không hơn bất cứ nơi nào mà tôi đã từng làm việc.” Khải nói: "Múa mang cho tôi hơi thở, múa
chỉ là tầm nhìn của tôi, đó là tầm nhìn của Việt Ted Osius sẽ tham dự lễ hội Pride ASEAN vào mang cho tôi kết cấu, múa mang cho tôi âm
Nam, là điều chúng ta đang phát triển với nhau." 20/6. Được tài trợ bởi Đại Sứ Quán Hoa Kỳ và đồng thanh, ánh sáng, không gian, ý nghĩa và một
Osius cũng mang một phương pháp tiếp cận của tổ chức cùng với CAMA, lễ hội năm ngoái đã chứng cảm giác thật."
thế kỷ 21 cho ngoại giao, với một sự tập trung mạnh kiến 5.000 người tham gia ở American Club tại Hà IDECAF nằm ở 28 Lê Thánh Tôn, Q1 và buổi
mẽ trong việc kết nối với thanh niên Việt Nam qua Nội. Ngoài chương trình ca nhạc sống tuyệt vời, lễ hội biểu diễn sẽ bắt đầu lúc 20:00. Vé có thể mua tại
các phương tiện truyền thông xã hội và các buổi năm nay nhằm mục đích nâng cao nhận thức về vấn IDECAF theo số điện thoại (08) 3823 9968. Giá
thảo luận cam kết thường xuyên tại các trường đại đề đa dạng giới tính tại Việt Nam. Để biết thêm chi vé là 200,000 đồng (150,000 đồng cho sinh viên)
học địa phương. Những nỗ lực này đã được đền tiết xin lật trang 179.

The Final Say
One of the booby traps used by the ethnic minorities during the resistance against the Saigon Republic
the final say National Chapter 9:

Sparks on a Mountainside
The Inside For the next seven issues,

Word is presenting excerpts
Story of the
from Wilfred Burchett’s semi-
nal account of the American
War. A close friend of Ho Chi
Guerrilla War
Minh, Burchett was the only
westerner to be embedded
with the Viet Cong frontlines
in the early 1960s. This work
was written in 1964
The NLF shooting at the enemy
Revolt of the Kor he turned his sightless eyes towards the the free life of their forests and mountains
Half-a-dozen men, their deep bronze- Kinh and listened attentively to every word. and fiercely resent any interference in their
coloured bodies naked but for skimpy For hours it had gone on like this, only the customs.
loincloths, squatted on their haunches two speaking and the tribal elders giving an A condensed version of the conversation,
around the frail old man on the low-slung, occasional grunt of approval or disapproval. with the same points endlessly repeated in
woven hammock, listening to his slow- The old man was Pho Muc Gia, chief of different variants was something like this:
spoken but impassioned words. They then the tiny Kor tribe, which numbered about “Our tribe will be wiped out like fish in a
turned to another, not of their race, clad 4,700 at that time and lived on the mountain drying pond. Our people are being killed faster
in the loose black cottons of the Kinh, or slopes of Tra Bong, Quang Ngai in Trung Bo than new ones are born. Over 500 since the
Vietnamese from the plains. [Central Vietnam]. In his day, Pho Muc Gia Diemist savages came.”
The old man’s fine white hair was drawn had been a mighty warrior and had led his “My heart bleeds with yours at your people’s
into a tight bun on the back of his head, a tribespeople against the French even before sufferings.”
sparse white beard reached far down his the first resistance war started. Now he was “They violate our women, steal our buffalo and
chest, his skin over the wasted frame was the half paralysed — and his age, calculated by pigs, take our young men as slaves to work in the
hue and texture of a shriveled orange. What the number of times the tribe had changed plains. It is not life but living death.”
remained of his teeth, filed down almost their “ray” (the clearings hacked out of the “We have protested together many times at
to the stumps as tribal custom demanded, mountainside and used for a strictly limited their black deeds.”
were black from betel-chewing; his ears number of years for cultivation), was over “They insult us every time they see us or
had large holes from which adornments 90 years. But he was still the unchallenged come to our villages; defile our customs, show no
had been removed; around his wrist was a leader of his people. Like most of the tribal respect for the old or our women. They treat us
copper bracelet. After he finished speaking, peoples, the Kor are passionately devoted to like animals. They intend that no Kor people shall

Montagnards in the jungle
hold up their heads again.”

“‘Still we must be patient. I know and
my comrades know full well of your terrible
sufferings. That is why we believe you should
move to another district, further away from these
evil beasts.”
“Never do our people move without a battle.
It would be to insult the graves of our ancestors.
And you and your friends who were such brave
warriors in the fight against the French, why do
you not join us and fight together again? Either
we fight together or we are struck down together
like buffalo tied to trees.”
“If we fight back, the sufferings will be still
greater. Why don’t you move? The mountains
and forest are the same there as here; the fish in
the rivers, the animals in the jungle are plentiful.
But it is more difficult for the enemy to oppress
and insult you.”
“Did we weaken when they tortured us to
betray your hiding places? Did we shrink from
their blows and tortures when they wanted us to
insult you?”
“We will never forget how brave and true were
you and your people.”
Wilfred Burchett in the house of an ethnic minority family
“Then don’t ask us to run away like a craven
antelope without a fight. Never will I ask my Kor
people to do that. Never till the forests die out “Before you were real warriors,” the old man this was by no means the first time. The Kor
and the mountains mumble and the sky falls in.” continued, “we fought as one. Now we see you people had been brave as tigers in protecting
“And at that point,” [translator] Sao Nam are no longer resistance fighters. If you were, you those of us who had fled from the plains. At
told me, “the other elders joined in with would support us and not ask us to run away.” first the Diemists had tried to buy up Pho
very decided grunts of approval, repeating “You are too few, the enemy is too many. The Muc Gia because they knew of his great
‘Never, Never, Never’ in voices that rose to sufferings will be still greater.” prestige. But he spat at them when he saw
shouts, bringing people all over the village “We will never run away without a fight.” they wanted him to betray his comrades of
outside their hut.” “And so it went on,” said Sao Nam, “and the resistance. The whole tribe was solid

Wilfred Burchett on horseback
about this and some suffered severe torture of violence from the “other” side in all of
rather than betray the fact that former Central Vietnam, and one of the very first in
resistance cadres were hiding in the area. South Vietnam as a whole.
We felt terribly bad at their sufferings and at “We were appalled when we heard of it,”
a meeting shortly before this conversation, said Sao Nam. “First, it was a clear violation
we had decided to propose that they move. of the ‘line’ and, secondly, we knew that this
We had chosen a spot where we felt they uprising would be repressed with terrible
would be relatively safe and where the ferocity and the Kor and other tribes perhaps
living conditions would be even better than completely exterminated.”
where they were. I was deputised to try and The reaction was swift and terrible. The
persuade the old man.” No. 2 Diemist division, plus 23 companies,
On the night of the day following this was sent to Tra Bong district to wipe out
conversation, there was a meeting of the the Kor. To get to Tra Bong, the punitive
Kor men folk and a few days later, a big expedition had to pass through the districts
feast was organised in the village nearest the of Tra Mi and Son Ha, burning villages and
Teo-Reo post that was the immediate source slaughtering the inhabitants as they went, Wilfred Burchett with Y Bih Aleo
of their troubles. All but one of the Saigon building up a store of hatred — and accounts
garrison came swaggering over, when they to be settled.
learned that food and shum shum — the The Kor were not caught unawares.
fierce mountain alcohol made from glutinous Skillful hunters, they were used to
rice — were plentiful. The Kor people are protecting their homes and fields from wild
traditionally hospitable, and this time more animals and they set a series of terrible
so than ever. man-traps along and around all tracks
After the shum shum had had its effect, leading to their villages. These were very
at a signal from the old chief, who had rudimentary compared to the elaborate
been carried to the spot, the young men integrated systems of traps developed
of the tribe fell on the garrison, 54 in all, later as a result of exchanges of experience
and slaughtered them to a man. Some of between the tribes, but they were still very
the tribesmen raced back to the post, but effective. What seemed to be solid ground
the lone sentry had already fled. The arms, suddenly gave way under the feet of one
however, were there. The Kor tribe was now or more troops and they fell several feet
in possession of 54 firearms and a plentiful to be impaled by needle-sharp, steel-hard
stock of ammunition. This action took place bamboo spikes. It did not take too many
around the end of January 1959, and as cases of impaled troops to dampen the
far as I could discover it was the first act ardour of the rest.

Like all the tribespeople, the Kor are
natural masters of the art of ambush and the
silent fade-out. In addition to the arms they
seized, they also had homemade “praying
mantis” guns, fearsome bell-mouthed
affairs that discharge a load of grape-shot
accurately enough for the few yards range at
which they operated. Set up to cover a jungle
path, they are released when a guerilla jerks
a string from a respectable distance as the
enemy reaches a pre-selected point. A single
shot has been known to put a dozen troops
out of action.
The weapon the Diemist troops feared
most, however, was the crossbow and
poisoned arrows; the slightest scratch from
the latter causes immediate paralysis, and
death follows within three to five minutes.
The faint click of the crossbow trigger
makes it impossible to locate from where it
was fired.
The Diemist troops began running into
traps and ambushes long before they
reached the Kor villages, but they rarely
caught sight of a Kor tribesman. After many
days of slugging through the jungle with
losses every day from an invisible enemy,
the punitive expedition arrived at the Kor
villages and found them empty and silent.
Old man Pho Muc Gia, honour satisfied
because his tribe had given battle, had led
his people to a remote area where they
made new homes in grottos, carved out of
the sides of ravines, and set up intricate
permanent systems of traps at all approaches
to the new site, around their homes and
cultivation patches.
As they could not wipe out the Kor by
military action, the Diemists created an
economic blockade, the most serious effect of
which was to cut off the vital salt supplies.
“We former resistance cadres felt terrible
about what was going on but we marveled
that the heroic Kor were still holding out,”
said Sao Nam. “We held a meeting of all
the former cadres we could collect in the
province and decided we must organise at
least economic help for them. Normally the
Kor exchanged cinnamon and tea for salt
and medicines from the plains. We decided
to help them move their products out
through other districts and bring back what
they needed from the plains.
“Soon there were human caravans moving
at night between mountains and plains
and the supply situation for the Kor people
improved radically. We also collected various
types of medicinal plants and planted them
around the new Kor villages. We showed
them how to burn bamboo and the roots
of certain reeds to obtain a sort of salt, and
introduced them to the bark of a certain tree
that contains lots of tannin that also helps
replace salt. We procured seed manioc and
persuaded them to cultivate this valuable
tuber to eke out their rice supplies, since rice
cultivation was difficult in the rocky area
they had chosen. Old man Pho Muc Gia was
Ede resistance leader, Y Bih Aleo, the man behind the Tay Nguyen uprising against the Saigon Republic in October 1960
deeply touched with all this support and
regained his confidence in us.”

An ethnic minority man with his pony
Pho Nia’s Weapons From July 1959, Pho Nia started his come to their aid — but they too were soon
Meanwhile there was a new, unexpected ambushes and night attacks, using fire writhing around, trying to prop each other
development among the Hre minority, arrows shot from crossbows that lodged in up and there was a terrific melee going on in
a tribe in which the French had raised a the thatch roofs of the puppet battalion’s midstream, at the only place where a crossing
puppet battalion in the past and which barracks in the first attack. Within three could be affected by wading. They had run
was taken over by Diem. One of the most months the puppet battalion had suffered into the chong giay or “spiked rope” — a
respected leaders of the Hre was Pho Nia, a severe losses. Later it was wiped out brand new invention of Pho Nia.
deputy canton chief under the French who completely. Made of long pieces of stout jungle creeper,
retired to his native village in Son Ha district “His very name struck terror in the they were studded with eight or nine-inch
as an “elder” once the first resistance war heart of the Diemist troops,” Sao Nam spikes of razor-sharp bamboo, and set in
started. After the Diemist administration said, “and later on when some other Hre series of threes, one end of each anchored
was set up, Pho Nia had to go into hiding leaders followed his example they always to the bed of the stream. When they were
because of the repression. operated under the name of Pho Nia. The stepped on, with the action of the current,
In his own village the usual savagery was legend spread that he had some sort of they coiled around the legs of the troops like
employed in seeking out former resistance magic medicine that protected his men snakes and the more the latter struggled to
members. Many tribesmen were killed, from bullets. In fact the ‘magic’ was his very get free, the more the chong giay stabbed and
women were violated, livestock stolen. When careful preparations for every engagement slashed and tended to bring the victim down
Pho Nia heard of the Kor uprising, he sent a and the superb morale of his people fighting to his knees.
delegate over to check what was happening. to defend their own villages and avenge One stalwart young Vietnamese peasant
Then he decided the Hre should also move. themselves for the previous five years of who had started fighting the French at the
Most of their troubles came from the unparalleled oppression.” age of 15, after noting my rather horrified
Hre puppet battalion under Dinh Ngo Pho Nia continued to develop rudimentary reactions at the first really comprehensive
and Dinh Enh. People like Pho Nia had weapons and by mid-1960 there had series of traps I had seen, made a valid point:
tried to reason with them, to awaken some already been exchanges of experience with “You see, our weapons don’t have much
feelings of national solidarity, but as Sao tribal weapons experts from neighboring range. Some of them none at all. They’re
Nam expressed it, “They had been too long provinces. I have already mentioned the not intended for aggression against the
corrupted by the colonialists; they had “praying mantis” and the “ten-thousand- Americans or anyone else. The enemy
become too used to killing and plundering purpose” gun that fired any calibre from a eliminates the need for range in our weapons
and the Diemists maintained the specially Sten gun bullet down, with adjustable grips when he commits aggression against us. We
high privileges and rewards for treachery for those that did not fit the barrel exactly. Its place them around our hamlets and homes,
that the French had introduced.” added advantage was it could easily be built around cultivation patches, fruit trees and
Pho Nia, a diminutive, sedate figure with a into a hoe or plough handle, ready for any poultry yards. If the enemy keeps away he
head like a Red Indian warrior chief, decided emergency. A jerk at the plough handle if an won’t be hurt. But when he comes into our
to deal with them. He made thorough enemy suddenly appeared, and there was a backyards to kill and steal, he will be hurt
preparations, taught his tribesmen how to deadly weapon. plenty. We warn him of this.”
make a wide variety of traps and also the It was used by everyone; men, women Wilfred Burchett was an Australian reporter
sung van nang, “ten-thousand-purpose” gun, and children, and local smithies turned often described at the ‘rebel journalist’ for his
a primitive firearm with a firing pin triggered them out in serial production. If bullets were stories about the American War ‘from the other
by rubber thongs and which could fire any short, they filled empty cartridge cases with side’. After years of being at odds with the
small arms bullet likely to be picked up on homemade powder, prepared by roasting Australian government, last year the Melbourne
the battlefield. Like the “praying mantis” bats’ dung, rich in saltpeter, and mixing Press Club inducted him into their Hall of Fame.
it was sufficiently accurate from the sort it with ash from a certain type of bark. Burchett was also the journalist to break the scoop
of range the tribesmen would be using it. Anything from bicycle ball bearings upwards of the 20th century — the devastation caused
The barrel was made of metal from plane were used for shot. by dropping nuclear bombs on Hiroshima and
or automobile remnants, heated in local When enemy troops tried to cross a Nagasaki.
smithies and beaten around a perfectly stream to “mop up” at a Ngao village in Special thanks to George Burchett for allowing
straight, slim stick of appropriate calibre, the Son Ha district in March 1960, the first us to republish this work. Please note that some
stick being burned out later. Soon virtually troops in the line suddenly fell, screaming. of the language in this piece has been changed to
every tribesman had one of these. They would have drowned had not others reflect its modern-day spelling

The Last Call
The Bachelor
In between stewarding the nascent Kujuz
Café empire, designing clothing and
curating spaces, Chuong Dang finds time
to go on some dates.
Photo by Francis Xavier
My best quality is... optimism. I used to go through a lot of

struggle in my life, and then I realised that the next day is coming in
24 hours. And no matter what you feel or think or worry, that day is
going to come.
My interests are... what works for that conversation, and for

those people. I can’t just tell a story. Like if I met a person with blue
eyes, I could just keep saying, “Oh my god, the blue eyes are killing
me, I’m just so into that, I’m crazy about that.” I’m not telling lies. I
have that. But I don’t do that with people who don’t have blue eyes.
I’m into... living. That’s something that’s hard to make clear. But
for the moment, I just know two people. The only two people that
are important to me are the ones who are sitting in front of me.
My ideal date... is a very interesting concept. No matter if I’m

with someone, if I have a partner or not, I always keep dating
people. When I feel down, when I’m worried, when I’m sad, when I
feel lonely, I’m always dating people. And I prepare for those dates.
Dates that don’t go anywhere... I stop right away. Because

I don’t want to feel bad — you don’t want to have bad experiences
when you date. So I just close it down.
The first thing that people notice about me are... my

eyes. I have a rule: I only send honesty and love through my eyes.
And right away. When I see people, that’s me.
Six things I can’t live without... I don’t have those six things.
I used to have my pillow that my sister made for me, and I travelled
everywhere. And I realised one day — why do I have to do that?
And I moved on.
I didn’t study Zen... but I learned it in some special way. It hap-

pened a long time ago, I met with an Indian master. When he met
me, he said, “You know you have energy, you have special energy
in your body. Do you know that?”
By some way of living, I know things, I feel things and I feel
that kind of freedom. So the Zen for me is just like that. I can do
meditation everywhere. I don’t prepare a room where I can sit with
no sounds. If I want, I close my eyes and I hear nothing.
Dating online... I’m just me. This is the logic. People who get into
that website are people who have the same thinking, needs and
concepts like mine. So why do I have to hide in that corner? It’s just
so unfair.
If you come into my profile and you see me, that’s just me. If you
don’t go there, then you’ll never know I’m on there.
I always... live my age. When I was young, all the children wanted
to grow up fast. I didn’t. I enjoyed 14, 15, 16 — I was just so happy.
When I started ageing, people told me, “Why don’t you
shave, you’re going to look younger?” I said, “Why do I need
to look younger? I need to look attractive, sexy, good — but not
younger!”


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Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực

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Chuyên Đề Du Lịch & Ẩm Thực

6 | Word June 2015 | wordvietnam.com

push. It’s not easy. division of businesses on dating and look at

Prelude Many of them are not

Have Your Say

Omission Can Gio by Speedboat Word T-Shirt Competition

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1 Swedish band Twiggy Frostbite

traditional and contemporary have

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National bring myself to sport a facemask.

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Saigon Pet Clinic is at 33

Cat of the Month:

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Photo by Owen Salisbury

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The Saigon Geckos

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City and beyond The City Museum Gallery will

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Local techno outfit Heart Beat is

Saigon Summer Ball

To celebrate midsummer, Saigon

Dancenter’s last 200-person

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in Ho Chi Minh He also knows a lot about electronic

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XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL

The t-shirts will only be

All you need to do is answer

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Royal Ascot Garden Party

Australians in Vietnam celebrate

is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,

Obey Radio Saigon

In collaboration with ILL Beats

Robots alongside curator Roam

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The Mugic crew of Ulysses, the best underground parties

#savethedate Although details of the bash

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New The Hyatt Reopens