Word Vietnam April 2016

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC
VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 4

TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS
OM
.C
AM
TN
IE
DV
THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

OR
W
Contents
Apr. 2016
58
54
78
THE TALK INSIDER 96 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

This month’s review: Panam’
010 / Twenty Years Later 46 / Landing on Water
Vietnam in 2036 A trip to Halong Bay by seaplane 98 / Street Snacker Hanoi
On the menu: pho vit quay
011 / The Big Five 54 / Ascending Long Bien Bridge
April in Vietnam The Urbex movement knows no 100/ Mystery Diner HCMC
bounds Café-Restaurant is put through its
BRIEFINGS paces
58 / In the Beginning There
12 / Cleaner Air Wasn’t the Word 102 / The Best Banh Xeo in
Being proactive with pollution This month we turn 100 Saigon
Vietnam’s answer to yes, you
14 / Nha San 78 / Arsenic and Old Lace guessed it, the dosa
Hanoi’s longest running arts We’re not scaremongering. We
collective promise!
108
18 / The Renovation 84 / Night and Day at the
Generation Flower Market
Doi Moi and podcasts Getting close and personal on Au Co
20 / Coffee on the Spin EAT & DRINK

Who needs cafes, anyway?
90 / 24 Hour Cafes
26 / Ironman Where to sleep when you don’t
Or Ironwoman, as the case may be wanna go home
2 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Contents
Apr. 2016
112
118 198
TRAVEL 138 / Day Tripper COLUMNS
106 / Bangkok in Squares 142 / Bar Stool 146 / The Therapist

A photo essay on the Thai capital
144 / Coffee Cup 150 / Medical Buff
112 / The Best Restaurants in
Phnom Penh 148 / Top Eats 158/ Business Buff
Now you know where to go for the
Apr. 30 holiday 152 / City Map 160 / Body and Temple
118 / 10 Destinations to Visit in HCMC 166 / The Gym Diaries

Vietnam in 2016 28 / To-Do List
Our alternative guide to travelling 176 / Amazing Grapes
Vietnam 34 / Just In
178 / Know Your City
128 / Notes from Another City 154/ HCMC City Guide
Entry 3: Danang 186 / A World of Good
156 / Day Tripper
132 / The Motorbike Diaries FINAL SAY
From West Bengal to Zangoora 170 / Bar Stool
190 / Kiteboard Goes to Phan
HANOI 174 / Coffee Cup Rang
A new destination for a
38 / To-Do List 180 / Top Eats 1 professional sport
42 / Just In 184 / Top Eats 2 192/ Ten 10

Our chief editor comes out of the
134 / Hanoi City Guide 188 / City Map woodwork

CONTRIBUTORS
This month we asked our team to tell us about
the best moment during the time they’ve
worked for Word The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
TRUNG DEL EDITORIAL

Contributor
For me? It’s definitely the time that
I was interviewed for Many Faces of
NICK ROSS VU HA KIM VY
Chief Editor Editorial Manager
Vietnam by Ms. Vy, LOL. nick@wordvietnam.com vy@wordvietnam.com
FRANCIS XAVIER MADS MONSEN JON ASPIN
Staff Reporter Creative Director Staff Editor
One of my best working trips for mads@wordvietnam.com jon@wordvietnam.com
Word was that time when I was sent
to Kampot and Bokor in Cambodia to KYLE PHANROY JULIE VOLA
write about the place as a new travel Photo Editor Staff Photographer
tour destination. Before I knew exactly kyle@wordvietnam.com julie@wordvietnam.com
what was going on, I was in a VIP escort heading to
Bokor mountain. And then the next day sitting at the FRANCIS XAVIER OWEN SALISBURY
Ninth World Congress on one the most beautiful bays Staff Reporter & Photographer Staff Writer
in the world, at the same table as Ministers of Tourism francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com owen@wordvietnam.com
from several countries in Southeast Asia, asking them
questions. Cambodia treated me well. JESSE MEADOWS NGUYEN LOC
Staff Writer (Hanoi) Layout Designer
jesse@wordvietnam.com loc@wordvietnam.com
JON ASPIN
Staff Editor
Probably the trip to Amanoi Resort
in Ninh Thuan Province with the late ADMINISTRATION
great Kyle Phanroy for company as
part of the Undiscovered Coast issue. BAO ROSS TRANG LE
Funnily enough, the best part wasn’t General Director Chief Accountant
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water with the locals just near the ‘floating’ seafood
restaurant. Heaven on earth.
ADVERTISING
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Photographer
One of the most fun I have had was
for the Urban Explorer issue when I Special thanks to Kieran Crowe, Nha San, Natalia Martinez, Hey Camel Ceramics, The Renovation
managed to sneak into a building’s Generation, Vincent Demailly from Coffee Spin, Thanh Vu, Phuong Tieu Nguyen, Harry Hodge, Linh
abandoned rooftop cafe. The feeling Nguyen and Emily Dallara from Saigon Outcast, Emily Petsko, Hai Au Seaplanes, Chris Humphrey,
was amazing, such a thrill. And then Vietclimb’s Jean Verly, Aron from BWT, Huyen Tran, Don Wills, Matt Dworzanczyk, Fuji Pham,
for that same issue I collaborated with one of my
Billy Gray, Douglas Holwerda, Dr. Brian McNaull, Shane Dillon, Phil Kelly, Bao Zoan, Ed Haysom,
favourite people, David Mann, on a fashion shoot that
Jim Cawood, Dana McNairn and David Legard.
I am really proud of.
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Word is a registered © Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung
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The started in November
2009 and joined together
with Word Ho Chi Minh
something different.
Yes, we have our
issues — what business
including myself, have
been there from the
start; Duong Vy Bao, Vu
Prelude
City in July 2013, and I doesn’t? Yes we have Ha Kim Vy and Mark
still marvel at this feat, our moments when Allan. Many others
almost always achieved the common vision no have worked with us for
1
with a small team. longer remains common three, four or even five
00 issues. 16,000 A recent conversation to all. Yet the magic has years. In a fast-changing
pages, 12,000 with a friend now living never lost its spell, and country known for
articles, 11,200,000 in Toulouse, France the charm has never its transience, this is
words and a made me realise that shaken off its allure. another feat.
helluva lot of late somehow, despite the There is something So, putting our
nights, deadlines and inexorable advance about putting together trumpets aside, a final
stress. Sometimes when of time, we remain a publication such as little word of thanks.
I look back I wonder fresh. Running his own ours that is not just fun, Actually, a big word
how we’ve managed to recruitment company but a little bit special: of thanks. To everyone
do it, not just once, but for over a decade, you the people we meet, the who’s supported us,
OM
.C
AM
every month for over could tell from his places we go, the stories worked with us and
TN
IE
DV
OR
eight years. words and the lines we manage to unveil. read us from day one,
W
Add to this 44 issues on his face that he was Testament to that we couldn’t have done
of a separate publication, tired, ready to move are the people who’ve it without you. THANK THIS MONTH'S COVER
Word Ha Noi, which was on, determined to do worked with us. Four, YOU!!! — Nick Ross Design by DH Advertising
Have Your Say

Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or
via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to
hearing from you.
Inbox The Vung Tau

Hydrofoil
You may have seen
in the news that
minibuses from
Air Pollution
In response to the article on wordvietnam.com, ‘Saigon Air Pollution Now Very Unhealthy’
Interesting contrast with the US Consulate data… I wonder if its because the consulate is
next to a big park, or that District 2 is closer to Bien Hoa — MF
Do you have Vung Tau can no The 600 SUV’s that are delivering and picking up one child at the schools every day isn’t
longer drop off making it better. — LI
any comments and collecting
that you would passengers in WTF — should we walk our kids to school?! — JH
District 1. This has
like to air? If resulted in absolute Approx. 300 new cars plus 600 new bikes registered daily × 30 days = 27,000 new vehicles
so, reach out chaos as the per month × 12 mths = 324,000. Any new roads to be seen? Any bother on time saving?
minibuses now stop — TM
and touch the other side of the
tunnel in District 2 This article needs to be translated into Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, French etc. The
us at nick@ where passengers pollution makes living here really unenjoyable for me sometimes. — CL
wordvietnam. are transferred to
seven-seater cars Learning Vietnamese
com — we’re at for the ride into The Language Beast (February, 2016)
your fingertips. and from District Wonderful article, put very nicely. I’m sure Peter could have said a lot more — CB
1. A consequence
is that more I’ve had people praise my Vietnamese when the reality is my comprehension has hanging
passengers are now on by a thread. Hardest thing I’ve ever tried to do... — RC
using the hydrofoil,
which is good news Hang on a minute... which circumstances familiar to middle aged western males is he
because weekdays taking about...? — PC
it has been quite
lightly loaded and This cryptic point also intrigued me — he implies it is something so common it doesn’t
we did not want need explanation but I don’t have a clue — KP
the service to stop.
— CE I was learning tones last night... Bloody hard going — BC

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 9
Talk
Lead
THE TALK LEAD ARTICLE
Twenty Years Later

What will this country look like in two decades time?
A
recent event organised by the So, what can help Vietnam achieve its Minh City have numerous beautiful trees
British Business Group of Vietnam goal of upper middle-income status? which can be preserved. Many more could
in Ho Chi Minh City gathered Certainly the upcoming metro systems be planted.
together a group of expats from in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City can help
various industries and careers, all of whom ease congestion if they are well planned. Yet The Powers That Be
had one thing in common; they had all even Singapore has found that they do not Vietnam’s authorities are fully aware
being living here for 20 years or more. solve all problems — there are still status of the challenges the country faces —
These people have witnessed first-hand the issues that cause many people to eschew Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung was
enormous changes Vietnam has undergone public transport in favour of their own instrumental in jointly creating the initiative
since 1996; the rise of the automobile, the vehicles. Also, the near complete absence that led to the Vietnam 2035 report.
age of the internet, and most importantly, of multi-level car parks in Ho Chi Minh Minister of Planning and Investment Bui
average local income which has risen City, compared to Singapore and Bangkok, Quang Vinh summed matters up: “Our
almost 7% a year for a quarter of a century. is indicative of a problem that will not go country is at a turning point of reform
Where is this all leading? away any time soon. and development. We face significant
A new report published in February by If public transport is to be a success here, opportunities, but also big challenges. To
the World Bank Group and the government it will have to prove itself to be quicker and reach our goal of a becoming a prosperous,
of Vietnam tries to make sense of all this, more efficient than private transport, as creative, equal and democratic Vietnam,
and tries to create a road map for the well as being affordable. our only choice is to implement the reforms
country over the next 20 years. Entitled, Introducing an Intelligent Transport recommended by the Vietnam 2035 report.
Vietnam 2035, it recommends steps to System (ITS) might alleviate the problem. “Without these reforms it will be hard for
help lift Vietnam to upper-middle-income Already widely used in cities such as us to avoid falling into the middle income
status in two decades and suggests that London and Stockholm, ITS collects and trap and lagging behind. We see these
Vietnam build a more competitive private correlates traffic data from CCTV and heat reforms as a continuation of the historic Doi
sector, support smart urbanization, sensors dotted around the city, sending Moi reform process and we believe current
promote innovation and take advantage drivers real-time updates about accidents, and future generations of Vietnamese
of increasing trade opportunities to enact construction work, and traffic jams via their people have the will, determination,
broad structural reforms. In terms of cell phones. As can be seen on a daily basis, courage and capacity to successfully
benchmarks for achieving this status, GDP all Vietnamese drivers carry cell phones. implement these changes.”
in Vietnam would need to grow at 7 percent World Bank Group President Jim
per year, raising the average annual income Air Pollution Yong Kim noted: “In the last 30 years,
level to US$7,000 (VND156 million) a year A decline in air quality is an unfortunate Vietnam has become one of the world’s
based on modern-day prices. At present the by-product of rapid industrial development great development success stories,
average annual income is US$2,052 (VND46 in any country, and Vietnam is no different. rising from the ranks of the poorest
million). The report suggests several initiatives countries. Improvements in productivity,
that might help Vietnam’s cities not end environmental protection and economic
Rising Traffic Congestion up with Beijing-style smog. These include innovation can help Vietnam maintain high
Such foresight is vital, especially if it can a coordinated effort to decrease traffic levels of growth. The report recommends
be acted upon. You only have to look at volumes in the big cities, reduce industrial that Vietnam build modern and more
Bangkok, Jakarta or Manila to see what emissions, and switch to renewable energy. transparent institutions — those steps will
a lack of long-term vision allied to rapid Ho Chi Minh City receives an average of help the country meet its ambitious goals.”
development can do to a city. Vietnam’s 6.17 hours of intense sunlight a day, so there Vietnam has made impressive strides
cities have all the ingredients for a similar is an opportunity for the government to over the last 20 years. Everyone who has
descent; limited infrastructure capacity provide subsidies for citizens who install been here that long will be able to tell
(such as the Old Quarter in Hanoi), solar panels on their homes. you that. But now the world is watching.
plentiful construction projects, huge On the passive side, trees are known to Will this rising powerhouse still be able to
motorbike usage and ever-rising car improve urban air quality (the so-called impress its spectators in 2036? Time will
ownership. ‘green lung’) and both Hanoi and Ho Chi tell. — Kieran Crowe

Big5
The
a c
A laugh a b
minute,
water
festivals, the
Hue festival,
public art
and cleaning
up Vietnam
Comedy a lot of talk. For more info click on participate. There will also be prizes for
HCMC and Hanoi facebook.com/intothinairhanoi or turn people who collect the most rubbish.
1 Apr. 6 and Apr. 7 to page 38 To see a list of participating venues or
to get involved, turn to page 33
Yes, we know, our shameless Songkran
promotion of comedy in this rag is, HCMC, Q3 The Hue Festival
well, shameless. But hey, we’ve got a 3
Saturday, Apr. 16 Hue
vested interest here, and at Word, we 5 Apr. 29 to May 4
love to laugh. If you like waterfights and want the
This month the latest gags and opportunity to celebrate the Thai Artists and musicians from well
indomitable stand-up is coming New Year in the heart of Saigon, over 10 countries will be descending
courtesy of Irish comic, Aidan then the Songkran bash organised by on the former imperial capital of
Killian. Supporting him will be up- Saigon Outcast at the Youth Cultural Vietnam to celebrate the 9th Annual
and-coming American gagster, Sam House might just be for you. Hue Festival at the end of April.
Thomas. The pair will be performing Last year’s Saigon-kran at Outcast The lineup includes Stealing Sheep
in both Hanoi and HCMC and will was a runaway smash, so buy tickets (UK), the Germein Sisters (AUS), The
have support from local comedians. early or stay dry. And remember, Chinchineros (CHI), the Youth Dance
UK outfit Stealing Sheep will be one of the bands performing at the Hue Festival
This one will be very, very funny. April is the cruellest month... fear Group of Sri Lanka, bluegrass outfit
Irish comic Aidan Killian will be performing in Hanoi and HCMC this month
For more info, turn to pages 30 and 38 death by water-fight. Della Mea, jazz band the Michal
For more info click on saigonoutcast. Milczrek Trio from Poland and the
Artworks on the Street com or go to facebook.com/saigonoutcast. Halleluya Dance Group from Israel.
Central Hanoi Also, check out our article on Songkran Unfortunately for EDM lovers,
This year, Songkran is being celebrated in Saigon… big time
2 Apr. 9 to 19 on page 24 rumours of DJ Tiesto headlining

the festival don’t seem to have
Manzi Art Space is taking the Clean Up Vietnam materialized. Not that it matters —
concept of public art into a new Central Ho Chi Minh City and this is going to be a big, big event.
realm with their project, Into Mui Ne If you want to gain a better
Thin Air. Ten site specific and Sunday, Apr. 17 understanding of Vietnamese culture
contemporary artworks will move 4 and how it is merging with the
out of galleries and onto the streets As part of the Clean Up Vietnam modern age, then this is definitely
over 10 days with the help of artists day on Sunday, Apr. 17, the Clean one to pencil into your diary. But get
including Nguyen Manh Hung, Up team are working with bars and in there fast. As we went to print,
Crazy Monkey and Bui Cong restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City hotel deals were still available at
Khanh. Set up in 10 different Hanoi and Mui Ne who will be organising places like La Residence (la-residence-
locations, some will be mobile clean-ups around their areas over the hue.com) who are putting on a festival
installations while others are fixed in course of that weekend. package running at VND3.5 million a
particular locations. In addition to hosting the clean- night. But how long this will remain
Organised and curated by Manzi Art ups the participating venues will be the case is yet to be seen.
Space, Into Thin Air is a unique and offering great discounts on food and For more info on the festival, click on
exciting project which should garner drink to all those who register and huefestival.com
a)
b)
c)

Briefings Cleaner Air for
HCMC Better Learning
W
e’re sat in Adrian Watts’ office is ‘unhealthy for sensitive groups’ —
Few institutions in this overlooking the main building children and adults with breathing issues,
country proactively deal and play areas of his school.
Surveying his domain — he
such as asthma, need to be careful when
they’re outdoors.
with air pollution. is the Head of the International School “We have this card system in three places
of Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) — he in the school,” he explains. “We use three
The International School shows me the Air Quality Index (AQI) colours; red, green and amber. It means
card system in his window. At the moment that everyone round the school knows
of Ho Chi Minh City is one the card displayed is amber, meaning that where we are. Green is considered safe, but
the air pollution has hit between 100,000 when it goes into the red zone, which is
that does and 150,000 particles per litre. Based dangerous, I stop play outside.”
on World Health Organisation (WHO) That Vietnam’s major cities face a
measurements, this level of air pollution growing battle with air pollution is now

flow around the school. The pressure inside
the school will be higher than the pressure
outside, so when doors are opened,
the air will flow outwards rather than
inwards. This way the minimum amount of
pollutants will enter the building.
“It’s part of our mission to provide
a healthy environment to energize our
students,” he explains. “If the air’s
not clear then it affects thinking and
the children’s ability to enjoy their
environment.”
Indeed, studies have shown that bad
indoor air quality at schools can result in
poor concentration, lethargy, headaches
and even nausea. Clean air in the classroom
is therefore critical to enabling students to
perform to the best of their ability.
A Growing Concern
As we begin to talk, I ask Adrian why the
installation of air-purifying systems has so
far focused on younger children.
“The damage [from air pollution] is
done hugely when kids are very young
because they’re growing,” he says. “So the
absorption of the small particles into their
bloodstream then gets pushed out into the
rest of their bodies. As you get older you
still absorb the particles, but the impact on
you growing is less.”
Adrian cites Mexico City as an example
(until 20 years ago it was the most polluted
city in the world) where back in the 1990s
pollution was thought to cause 1,000 deaths
and 35,000 hospitalizations a year. During
this period, instances of acute childhood
leukaemia rose sharply as did respiratory
disease in children aged one to four.
Now, says Adrian, with the horrific air
quality problems in Beijing and Shanghai,
China faces a similar problem. It’s become
so bad that many “expat families have
withdrawn from Beijing,” he says.
He adds: “In Beijing, international
companies now locate single people
there or people with no children. So, it’s
definitely something that multinationals
consider now, as to how they strategically
plan for the future.”
More than Air Quality

We leave Adrian’s office and head to the
Early Explorer and Kindergarten area,
where he shows me the air purification
machines. We take a reading. The air quality
here is at around only 30,000 particles per
litre. Outside the campus this number rises
to 110,000 and the AQI cards are at amber.
becoming documented. However, it’s rare multi-purpose room, which is used for “These systems do more than just purify
that anyone takes steps to minimize its drama and sport. Next year this will be the air,” says Adrian. “They take out all the
impact. That is what Adrian Watts has done extended to the rest of the primary school. spores and all the other things in the air like
for ISHCMC. On completion of ISHCMC’s new bacteria, mould and spores that create damp.
secondary campus close to Saigon Bridge So, they create a healthier environment.”
Clean Air, Indoors and Out in 2017, the new building will also have He adds: “If I had a young child then
Adrian’s initiative goes much further a purpose-built air filtration system to ISHCMC would be my first school choice
than just checking the outdoor air quality. ensure that, as Adrian explains, indoor air for them because having your child in clean
Over the past 18 months, the school has pollution will be kept below “WHO levels air when they’re very young is essential.”
introduced standalone air purifying — which is 35,000 particles per litre”. — Nick Ross
machines throughout their early years Using what is essentially a huge box To find out more about the International
area right through to Grade 1. ISHCMC with three filters, the air will be purified School Ho Chi Minh City, visit ishcmc.com or
has also recently added the system to their at the point of entry, before it is allowed to call (08) 3898 9100

Briefings
Hanoi
PHOTO BY TRUNG DEL
Nha San
Hanoi’s longest running art collective has some big plans
N
ha San Collective is no stranger artists rebooted the group with a series 2016.
to change. Since its beginning of guerrilla projects and international Nha San’s first exhibition of the year
in 1998 as an experimental art collaborations. opened on Mar. 25. Called Mise en Scene,
space in a Muong ethnic minority Moving from a space in Zone 9, to a it was an exploration of the way history is
house, the group has been forced to adapt studio on Ly Quoc Su, and finally coming constructed by the media and those who
many times. A media mishap that drew to rest on the 15th floor of Hanoi Creative control it. Nguyen Quoc Thanh, a member
attention from the authorities caused the City (for now), this nomadic art collective, of Nha San and organiser of the annual
collective to shut its doors in 2011, but the first and longest-running artist-led Queer Forever Festival, exhibited a series
two years later, a younger generation of non-profit in Vietnam, has big plans for of his photographs mounted on the glass

IMAGE PROVIDED BY NHA SAN COLLECTIVE
give talks and workshops to local artists.

But this exchange is not limited to artists
at Nha San; the third instalment of Skylines
with Flying People, beginning this Autumn,
will give creatives an opportunity to learn
from visiting academics and researchers in
social science. Focused on inspiring “new
ways of thinking and doing”, the project
will feature workshops and talks from
September to December, culminating in an
exhibition of 12 Vietnamese artists from
across the country.
For Skylines, Hanoi-based conceptual
artist Nguyen Phuong Linh has begun
work on a project titled Black, White, and
Red, a three-channel video installation on
rubber plantations in central and southern
Vietnam.
“One evening two years ago, I wandered
through rubber woods surrounded with
unnamed graves. Such an intangible
sense of the Central Highlands’ red
basalt soil, hazy darkness, shining moon,
agrestic smell, and ghostly stories of dead
workers, soldiers, as well as Western
foreigners during the French colony and
Images of Nha San’s first exhibition of the year, Mise en Scene
later the American war, has fascinated my
curiosity,” Linh writes in her research.
In a country where university arts
windows of the group’s 15th floor gallery Nguyen Quoc Thanh says the project is programmes mostly focus on technique
space, juxtaposing his images against important for challenging the conventional and skill, Nha San’s projects are pivotal for
Hanoi’s skyline. “out-and-proud” narrative: “It’s [always] exposing young Vietnamese artists to the
This month, the collective will ‘Here I am, this is my place, I’m out international art world’s critical thought
welcome Viet Kieu artist Erin O’Brien and about’, but we want to ask people processes.
to conduct a series of workshops with what kind of visibility they want for “We just want to try to know the practice
LGBTQ-identified artists, culminating in themselves.” of other people, and ask a lot of questions,
an exhibition on Apr. 22. Supported by [like] what does it mean, and why?” says
American Arts Incubator, a programme Rates of Exchange Thanh. While the rest of the country rushes
that facilitates exchange between overseas Arts Incubator’s spirit of international the global stage, Nha San is making sure
artists and underserved communities, exchange echoes throughout the rest that Vietnam’s contemporary art scene
Erin’s workshops will focus on using of the annual in:ACT performance art does not get left behind. — Jesse Meadows
technology to tell the personal stories festival set for this summer. Last year, For more information on Nha San click on
of queer artists, by creating holographic the five-day event brought Seiji Shimoda, facebook.com/nhasancollective or head to their
videos that can be downloaded from the Japanese artist and founder of the Nippon studios on the 15th Floor of Hanoi Creative
internet and projected via iPhone or tablet. International Performance Art Festival, to City, 1 Luong Yen, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

Briefings
HCMC
Hey Camel Ceramics From The Canary Islands to Saigon
A
t the end of an alley in District 3 arts school and learn photography,” he The Rising of the Pot
you will come across Hey Camel explains. “I really like to show other people Camouflaged in a corridor of walls covered
Ceramics. In there you will find my vision, the ideas that run through my with colourful plants and flowers, the facade
stylishly designed pottery and mind.” of this studio imposes its own harmony with
you will have the chance to dig your A few years ago he moved to Vietnam elegance and style. Inside, a peaceful room,
hands into clay and, who knows, become where he joined a ceramics studio, learnt shelves and a table cover the space where
an artist. We spent a morning getting to this new art and “found a new way of plants, mugs and plates rest, and even old
know the founder and creative director, self-expression after many years”. This town-style little Saigon houses — perfect
Leandro Marcelino. would result in a perfect way to reveal to get as a beautiful souvenir and provide
his roots by imprinting the influences and your home with a bit of creativity — are
From a Remote Archipelago to traditions of his home region on his work. exposed with delicacy as artwork waiting to
Vietnam By accumulating pieces, and with no room be admired.
Born in the Canary Islands, Spain, Leandro left at his house to store them, together “I want to offer the opportunity to my
developed an early passion for art which led with good reactions from customers in customers to feel a special connection with
to him becoming a ceramic artist. artisan markets, he decided to start Hey the pieces, and also have a meaningful
“When I was 17 I decided to join Camel Ceramics. theme related to local culture,” explains

PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER
Leandro. “The name of Hey Camel Ceramics
was inspired by my roots and where I come
from. The Canary Islands have long been a
home to camels, where they have served an
important role in the transport of wares for
trading merchants in the past.
“The camels therefore represent an
important link between the cultural exchange
that takes place between the traders.
Likewise, I like to think that my brand is a
celebration of different cultural influences.”
Looking at his work, which is constantly
growing — he just designed some cool
handbags with drawings of his work and
another of his passions; cacti — you might
wonder where he gets his inspirations from.
“Every trip I make, every little corner
of a town, the creamy colours of the walls,
the cobalt blue of their ceramics. I also get
inspired by many symbols of religious objects,
such as incense holders, offering wares, etc.”
However, Leandro has more to offer. The
back of his studio is set aside for workshops
where he teaches pottery. During the
weekends, he offers classes for VND450,000
which include all the materials necessary to
give shape to whatever you might have in
mind. So come over, let your creativity flow
and head back home with a few cool cups to
drink your tra da from, or a bowl for your pho.
And if you have any time left, check the
upstairs floor — Hey Camel Bazaar is also the
home of Saigon Leather Workshop, another involved in projects such as the recent ventures in the future. — Natalia Martinez
creative space, run by Adina Weinand. collaboration with designer Paloma Wool Hey Camel Ceramics is at 116/19A Tran Quoc
Leandro never stops; he has also been from Spain, and expects many more Toan, Q3, HCMC and opens from 11am to 5pm

Briefings
Hanoi

The Renovation Generation
A podcast project is documenting the lives
of young people born after Doi Moi
“Y
ou don’t always moving to Vietnam three years ago.
have to look Stories abound, like that of
outside for journalist Vu Hong Linh, who talks
interesting stories,” about her experience moving away
says Fabiola Buchele, over tea to Denmark, only to miss Vietnam
at a cafe on West Lake. It was a so terribly that she decided to move
rare warm afternoon in Hanoi’s back, or artist Nguyen Hoang
otherwise gloomy winter, and we Giang’s struggle to make his father
were taking advantage of the sun. understand his work. Duong Bui,
I’d met up with Fabiola, Eliza Lomas frontwoman for the metal band
and Maia Do, three of the women Windrunner, even told a tale about
behind the Renovation Generation, digging up her grandmother’s bones.
a new podcast spotlighting 30 “She said it in a way that I
Vietnamese characters under the wasn’t expecting. She was just like,
age of 30. yeah, it wasn’t scary. I know my
On the table between us sat a grandmother, it’s just her bones!”
pair of headphones, a portable Eliza laughed.
recorder and a laptop — the team’s “She did mention that she got
mobile studio. “This is a completed to meet her grandmother again. I
episode,” explains Eliza, showing think that was the most interesting
me a screen full of wavelengths in bit. It’s not just the bones, it’s a
greens and blues. It takes them about second chance to see her again,”
two hours to interview their subject, added Maia.
one in their makeshift home studio “When we started, the questions
and one in the field “to give it some we asked were a lot more serious,
colour,” adds Fabiola. These two and suddenly we were like, why
hours are then condensed into 10 don’t we have a bit of fun?” says
minutes of engaging real-life stories, Fabiola. “[The interview] with
accented by music, sound effects and Uyen the other day, that was my
careful narration. favourite so far. She was being so
“They’re sonic portraits,” Fabiola serious about spirituality, and then
explains. “We’re trying to show the she was telling us about dreaming of
Vietnam that we live in, and that Benedict Cumberbatch.”
we know… we’ve taken this chunk
out of the reality that exists, and An Alternative Viewpoint
it’s a chunk that doesn’t get a lot of As 2016 marks the 30th anniversary
attention and is often kind of swept of Doi Moi, the team has set a goal
under the rug.” to make 30 episodes this year. With
every new instalment, they refine
New Era, New Stories their style. It began as something of
That chunk consists of young artists, an experiment, recording interviews
musicians, and entrepreneurs with their friends in Fabiola’s flat,
born after Vietnam’s Doi Moi, or using a duvet hung on the wall to
renovation, policy went into effect help the quality of their recordings.
in 1986, opening the country to Eliza now posts regular notes
economic integration and creating on their website to give listeners
a whole new era for the struggling behind-the-scenes insight to their
nation. process.
“Some of the feedback we’ve had What sets this show apart is
from the show has been so nice. the alternative view it adds to the
Some of my Vietnamese friends say Western media’s typical narratives
‘Oh, finally some narratives which about Vietnam.
I can relate to!’ All the media I hear “I think the problem is that often
about is American kids or English because there is relatively little
kids, but what about the people who coverage, they end up making
live in the same bedroom as their incredibly broad statements,” says
brothers and mum and dad, and Fabiola. “It’s very important to us
want to be in a rock band, but have that we’re not bashing the same
to pursue a finance degree?” says drum.” — Jesse Meadows
Eliza, who produced documentaries Check out the podcasts at
and radio shows in London before therenovationgeneration.com

Briefings Coffee on the Spin
HCMC Bikes and coffee have gone hand in hand for years. Now, a French
lover of them both is making it his business
PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

T
here are lots of things you stop interesting yet traditional way, is something plantation owner himself, roasted in Saigon
noticing after a while here in that people can relate to. An industrial and ground every morning at Vincent’s
Vietnam, like middle-aged women designer with a love of custom, quality home and on-site.
getting about in their pyjamas after bicycles and motorbikes, he designed the
3pm. You’re never not aware that it’s going vintage-looking trike himself, and while he Friends on the Street
on, but after a certain amount of time, it no considers this model a prototype, it’s been It’s an idea he’s had in his head for several
longer makes you giggle quite as much. getting its fair share of attention. For him, years, since he started hearing all the bad
Basically, if you’re a long-termer, it starts it’s been about combining his love of good press about the local street coffee. But
to take something truly out of the ordinary design and good coffee, and presenting it in without a Vietnamese partner, it’s remained
to make you pay attention, which is what I a way that people feel connected to. It’s one just that.
did when I witnessed the recent sight of a step forward with a definite nod to the past. Now, with Phuong and Quynh very much
well-dressed foreigner making ca phe sua da at the heart, he is finally on the ground
from a bicycle-cum-coffee shop on the side Simply Good living his idea, and with the smiles and love
of a road in District 2. The Marseilles native says that coffee is a they’ve been getting from people every day,
simple product that people appreciate when they’re considering expanding the fleet.
Lining Up made well, so by offering it to them outside, “For sure we would like to spread the
Since the beginning of March, mostly along where they are, without having to go into idea of making ecological and clean coffee,”
Xuan Thuy in Thao Dien, Coffee Spin or any one of an increasing number of chain Vincent says. “Soon I think we will have
Spin Coffee, has been causing a small stir, stores, Coffee Spin retains a personal, human more bikes like this in District 3, District 7
entering what many might have thought to touch. and District 1 — why not?
be a saturated market, offering good quality, “We’ve been meeting a lot of people,” “But what I think is very important is the
reasonably priced coffee. Vincent says, “and by being here I think idea that we are preserving what people
The well-dressed foreigner in question we’re teaching people that good coffee, not like in this country, the culture of eating and
is Frenchman Vincent Demailly. He, along the poor-quality chemical stuff you usually drinking with friends on the street, and I
with his business partner Truong Que buy on the street, doesn’t have to be too think even as people become more able to
Phuong, have been trading in locally much more expensive either. It’s also a more afford to eat indoors, it’s something Vietnam
produced and hand-pressed coffee from ecological product, and a lot of people like needs to hang on to.” — Jon Aspin
their mobile café emporium. And they’ve that. We don’t need fuel or electricity to To find out where Vincent, Phuong and
quickly discovered that the locals’ thirst for make good coffee.” Quynh will be each day, head to their page
the bean is far from sated. Vincent, Phuong and another partner facebook.com/CoffeeSpinSaigon. You can find
Vincent explained to me that bringing Quynh source all their beans from Dalat. them most mornings from 7.30am opposite North
coffee back to the street in such an The beans are brought to Saigon by the End Deli on Xuan Thuy, Q2, HCMC

Briefings
National

Redefining
the Impossible
Thanh Vu is preparing to run 1,000km in some of the
toughest conditions on earth
I
n a world where the word ‘epic’ After this she’ll get a much-needed chase my impossible dream.”
gets thrown around too easily, rest before resuming her assault on As for the Why?, Thanh wants
Thanh Vu is about to attempt history in October in the Atacama to create history to raise awareness
something that actually is quite Desert in Chile. This is where last for her chosen charity, Tu Sach Cao
phenomenal. In 2016, the 25-year- year she became the first Vietnamese Vong (Rainbow Bookcase), but
old is trying to become the ninth woman to finish, and described the most of all to prove to the world
woman, and the first Southeast experience as like “going to the moon that her generation of women, and
Asian female, to complete the and back”. Finally, the series will Vietnamese women especially, can
4 Deserts ultra-running ‘Grand culminate in Antarctica at the end of go past any limitations put on them
Slam’. November, and if that doesn’t blow by history.
The feat involves finishing four your mind, nothing will. Blending long-distance interval
of the world’s toughest ultra- To even start this final event, racers running with The Bike Shop’s David
marathons in one calendar year. Each must have completed at least two Greenfield and hardcore PT workouts
one is a self-sustaining, 250km slog of the other three challenges — as if with California Gym’s Master trainer
through mostly uninhabited deserts. doing those gives you the base level Al Morgan, Thanh has everything
Comprising six gruelling stages of insanity required. Organisers call going for her, but that doesn’t mean
each, the courses take in some of the it ‘The Last Desert’. We call it putting she expects it to be easy. Far from it.
hottest, driest, windiest and coldest yourself in harm’s way. A skim through her blog from last
places on earth. Competitors must If successful, by the end of the year year’s Atacama Crossing gives an
provide and carry with them all of Thanh will have endured 1,000km of insight into just how tough she found
their own food, gear and clothing, ultra-running, gone through several it, and the mental fortitude wrapped
and are given a ration of water and a pairs of shoes, travelled the globe and up in this five-foot-nothing package.
tent to sleep in at night. achieved her goal of being the first “This is really hard… I’d like to
While Thanh is not new to extreme Southeast Asian woman to complete think I’m tough and I’ve done the
physical endurance — she’s already all four; the ‘Grand Slam’. mileage and the terrain training, but
a seasoned tri-athlete and marathon my God, whoever designs the course
runner — she’ll start what she But Why? knows how to push your mind and
describes as her “ultimate challenge” Interrupting her intense training last body to the limit, at every single step.
in the dry heat of the Sahara on May month (you don’t just turn up to But I promise I won’t give up as long
1. Home to the largest sand dunes these torture tests) I had to ask her as I can still move my limbs. Run,
anywhere, the Saharan course will that very obvious question, along walk, crawl, I will do whatever it
feature some of the most stunning, with why she was dedicating a year takes.” — Thanh Vu, October 2015
but brutal landscapes in Africa. Once of her life to something so hard, and Learn more about Thanh Vu’s epic
she gets through those, she will then how she felt about the first event just journey into history on her YouTube
travel to China in June to take on over a month away. channel or on Facebook, and follow the 4
the Gobi, with scenery including the “I’m freaking out,” she began, “but Deserts Series at 4deserts.com. To donate
spectacular but dangerous Tianshan thanks to the support I’m getting, I’m to Thanh’s charity Rainbow Bookcase, go
Mountains. grateful to have the opportunity to to tusachcaovong.com — Jon Aspin

Briefings
HCMC
Songkran
Thailand’s water festival returns to Saigon
I
t may seem odd to celebrate the Thai A Downpour elephant visuals for the event. Additional
New Year, Songkran, in Ho Chi Minh Moving venues means attracting a acts will be announced closer to the date.
City, especially as the honour is unlikely wider audience than in previous years, However, as this is likely to be the
to be reciprocated in Thailand. But as especially as the capacity of the Youth largest water festival ever held in
Linh Nguyen from Saigon Outcast has Cultural House is 4,000. Fortunately, for Vietnam, Linh adds a few words of
discovered after holding Songkran events anyone with a passion for getting wet, the advice.
for the past two years, it’s an event that festival will be more than just water guns “Everyone should come in shorts and
everyone just seems to love. and buckets filled to the brim with liquid, tees,” he says. “No bikinis are allowed —
So much so that last year 3,500 people or as Linh describes it, “a huge water after all this is a family and cultural event.
tried to get in the door of Outcast for fight minus the Thai boxing.” Waterproof phone covers and a spare
Songkran, which meant the 1,000-capacity A wide range of vendors will be on change of clothes are also recommended.”
venue had to turn people away. As a site selling anything from Thai cuisine Let the skies open and the Red Sea part.
result, on Saturday, Apr. 16 Outcast will be to Mexican in an attempt to “maintain You’re not about to get wet, you’re about
hosting this year’s festival, Get Wet, at Nha our warriors’ endurance”. Adds Linh: to get soaked.
Van Hoa Thanh Nien, or the Youth Cultural “Beverages will range from healthy juices For more info click on saigonoutcast.com
House on Pham Ngoc Thach, just a stone’s to the confidence boosting Mai ‘Thai’.” or go to facebook.com/saigonoutcast. Early
throw away from Notre Dame Cathedral There will also be live music and DJs bird tickets are VND130,000, with general
and next door to Diamond Plaza. taking the stage to provide the tunes. admission costing VND260,000. Tickets on
“A major part of Vietnamese culture is Already on board are Cheesy Gangstaz, the cost VND360,000 and kids go for free.
borrowed from the Chinese,” says Linh, Starchild and Maraphobia, Cherushi Tickets are available at Saigon Outcast,
“But we also have a strong Thai-Khmer Die the Russian violinist and rap outfit, deciBel and online at ticketbox.vn. Nha Van
heritage. So why not enjoy and celebrate 95 Generation, while Crazy Monkey is Hoa Thanh Nien is at 4 Pham Ngoc Thach,
the best of both cultures?” designing the Thai theme, water, Zen and Q3, HCMC
Last year's Songkran at Saigon Outcast

Sports Ironman
Digest (or Ironwoman)
Getting ready for

W
hen you meet a kid,” she told Word as she resorts before finishing at the
Phuong Tieu Nguyen prepares for the second running foot of the Marble Mountains.
a triathlon is no in person, you pretty
much assume no
of the event on May 8. “Starting
learning to swim in January, the
Last year, she took part in a
mixed relay for the Ironman in
small feat, sport is beyond her. result was pretty bad because I the running leg, with her team
A personal trainer in Ho Chi could not do freestyle swimming. finishing third overall.
as Harry Hodge Minh City, the lean and toned With two months left to the race, “I like to tackle challenges
Phuong admits that even for her, I switched to breaststroke.” where most people would
learns. Photos the upcoming Ironman Triathlon Participants must complete a not,” she said. “Running is
Francis Xavier in Danang remains a daunting
undertaking. Especially when
1.9km ocean swim, a two-loop
90km bike course that takes them
my strength but I have started
cycling. My times are quite good
you’re learning to swim. along Danang’s coastline and despite the fact that I’m only a
“In reality, I do not like a final 21km out-and-back run beginner in this field.”
triathlons because I’ve been course which is flat and passes Her preparation is impressive,
afraid of swimming since I was by many of Danang’s beach running 10km each morning

Vietnamese Shooter schools in Vietnam with
Takes Bronze in clinics in Ho Chi Minh City
Thailand and Hanoi. The programme
Vietnamese shooter Ha Minh will run through to June
Thanh won a bronze medal 2016 and engage more than
at the ISSF Rifle and Pistol 4,500 boys and girls. A series
World Cup in Bangkok, of school clinics will be
Thailand last month, conducted leading up to the
according to Vietnam News. selection camp on Apr. 9,
Thanh, 30, who had never where the top 40 boys and
won a World Cup medal top 24 girls aged between
before, finished third in the 10 and 14 will be chosen to
men’s 25m rapid fire pistol participate in the Jr. NBA
event. National Training Camp in
Earlier, another Vietnamese Ho Chi Minh City from Jun.
player Hoang Xuan Vinh 17 to Jun. 19.
won the men’s 10m air pistol The National Training
bronze medal. Camp will once again be
Vietnam now have two attended by an NBA legend
shooters — Vinh and Tran or current player and feature
Quoc Cuong — who will an NBA Cares community
compete in the 2016 Olympic outreach event. The
Games in Brazil this summer, programme will culminate
following their success with the selection of 10 boys
at the 51st ISSF World and five girls, who will
Championships in Spain. be named as 2016 Jr. NBA
Vietnam All-Stars and then
Vietnam Routed in play overseas in Southeast
Olympic Qualifiers in Asia later in the year.
Osaka
Vietnam ended their journey Vietnam Notches
in the AFC Women’s Olympic Surprise Tennis Win
Football Tournament Rio over Indonesia
2016 qualifiers in Japan with Nguyen Hoang Thien
a forgettable winless run last defeated Aditya Hari
month, when they lost their Sasongko on Sunday to
last match against South secure Vietnam’s 3-2 victory
Korea. over Indonesia at a 2016
The Vietnamese women Davis Cup Asia/Oceania
had a fun time celebrating Zone Group II match in
International Women’s Day Surakarta last month.
the day before the game, but Thien’s win was a bit of
the elevated spirits still failed an upset as most people had
to help them find a victory. predicted a loss for Vietnam,
South Korea scored twice especially after Ly Hoang
in each half of the match, Nam quit another singles
which was hit by a heavy match earlier on the same day
downpour in Osaka, to secure due to muscle cramp.
their first-ever victory at the As a result of the
tournament, following two victory, the Vietnam Tennis
draws and two losses in the Federation has awarded the
previous games. team US$10,000. In the next
Vietnam left the event round, Thailand will host
with zero points and 18 goals Vietnam and Chinese Taipei
against after five straight will play the Philippines from
defeats. Jul. 15 to Jul. 17.
at 4am, biking 60km one day Marathon in Singapore for
a week and swimming 6km December and racing in Young Ballers Show
throughout the week. It helps Thailand next year. Their Stuff
s
date
she is at the gym three hours She is also proving there is Jr. NBA, the NBA’s global
a day for six days a week as a indeed life after 40, as one of youth development
d up r
master trainer for California the top-ranked female runners programme that promotes
Sen out you p or
Fitness. On a normal day she is under 50 in the country at basketball participation and
ab g grou @
in ry
sportnt to har .com
up at 2.30am to start training and various distances, and is looking an active lifestyle among
in bed by 7.30pm. to add to her accolades. When children, has returned
“I am giving myself a target asked why she takes on so to Vietnam for the third
eve vietnam
word
that I’ll participate in all many races, her response was consecutive year beginning
international races in Vietnam,” straightforward. last month, according to
she said, eyeing the Sapa Ultra “I really enjoy running, and I Vietnam News.
Marathon in October. She is also love the feeling of winning,” she The expanded programme
lining up the Standard Chartered said. “That’s why I love racing.” will reach more than 200

1
ToDo
list HCMC
Exhibitions,
Aussie Rules,
Clean Up
Vietnam,
Comedy,
Songkran
and a beer
festival.
April’s got a
lot in store
for this city
2 3
Morning In the Mountains Have your kids do something A Night with Aidan Killian
Craig Thomas Gallery, Q1 creative in the real world, and Game On, Q1
Ongoing through Thursday, Apr. 21 let the qualified, English-fluent Wednesday, Apr. 7
instructors take them off your
Craig Thomas Gallery is exhibiting hands every day from 9am to 12pm. Anyone who went to the Magners
a new series of works by Hanoi- Each camp runs for one week, from International Comedy Festival last
based artist Nguyen The Hung. Monday to Friday. month will know what a feast of
The exhibition of mixed-media To learn more, such as the price or comedy we were treated with. Not
paintings opened on Mar. 25 and about May’s upcoming Doing Chores wanting to let the laughter die or the
Canvas and Wine has two outings this month. In the second you’ll get a chance to work with clay
runs until Apr. 21. camp, email info@vin-space.com or call momentum fall flat on its faltering
Nguyen The Hung draws much 0907 729846. VinSpace has locations face, Saigon International Comedy is
of his inspiration from the ethnic at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2 and S24-1 Le back for more with a show headlined
minority peoples of his native Van Thiem, Q7 by Irish stand-up Aidan Killian.
Tuyen Quang Province. This His second trip to Saigon, the Irish
particular series was inspired Smiles Art Contest gagster is known for his intelligent,
The Belgian Beer Festival is returning this month. Who needs wine, anyway?
by a volunteer effort to teach Westcoast International Dental impassioned and hilarious rants
art to children in the Ha Giang Clinic, Q1 that have led to appearances on BBC
Highlands. Until May 13 Newsnight, RTE, 98 FM, 4FM, Spin
This is his fourth solo exhibition FM the Vodafone Comedy Festival
Irish comic Aidan Killian is back in Saigon for a second time
with Craig Thomas Gallery since he If your children have been bitten and gigs at some of the largest
Westcoast’s annual Smiles Art Contest runs until May 13
graduated from the Hanoi Fine Arts by the art bug, and you’d like comedy festivals on this planet.
A work from the latest exhibition by Nguyen The Hung
University in 2009. them to look after their teeth, this This year he has already taken the
To learn more, visit the gallery one’s definitely for you. Get them stage at the Perth Comedy Fringe
online at craigthomas.com. Craig involved in this years’ Smiles Art and Adelaide Comedy Festival in
Thomas Gallery is at 165 Calmette, Contest where they can win an Ipad Australia, and confirmed on his
Q1, HCMC Air 2, a Playstation 4 or a Digital schedule is the Glastonbury Festival
Time to get your kids arty at Vinspace
camera for any dental artwork in the UK and his sixth one-man
VinSpace: Spring Camp involving a Superhero theme! show at the Edinburgh Fringe.
VinSpace, Q2 and D7 Run and organised by Westcoast Described by Chortle as a
Ongoing through Friday, Apr. 22 International Dental Clinic as part “Wonderful story teller” and a
of May’s dental health month, this comedian giving a “Master class in
If your little ones are underfoot — could be the perfect thing to inspire satire,” he will be supported by up
why aren’t they in school? — then your kids in the run up to the end and coming American comic, Sam
take them to Spring Camp! While of the school year. Thomas, who will be returning to
perhaps not as exciting as a Space To find out more go to Vietnam for the umpteenth time.
Camp, kids get to do art and not be westcoastinternational.com/ Also on the roster will be award-
hurled into outer space! in-the-community winning local comic, Diana Bailey,
4.
6.
2.
3.
5.
1.

4
5
Australian gagster Kieran Michaels, itself to frivolous and possibly even Belgian Beer Festival
and taking on the role of MC will be artistic purposes. Tame one of the Cargo Bar, Q4
American stand-up Brian Armstrong. fundamental forces of the universe Friday, Apr. 15
Entrance is VND200,000 and with nothing more than wood, wire,
includes a complimentary Magners fabric and moxie… for art’s sake. Get ivre (or bezopen, si vous préférez)
Irish Cider. Game on is at 115 Ho Tung On Thursday, Apr. 21, it’s time to in classy Eurostyle when the
Mau, Q1, HCMC and doors are at 8pm. show your bust. Your clay bust, of Belgian Beer Festival carouses
For bookings and info, email nick@ course — get to grips with a truly through Ho Chi Minh City.
saigoninternationalcomedy.com timeless medium, and learn how Chugging along from 6.30pm
to play God as you shape lumps of onward, the Festival will feature 50
Canvas and Wine clay into the likenesses of people. types of Belgian beer, Belgian food,
VinSpace Art Studio, Q2 Canvas and Wine events run a DJ and a lucky draw.
Apr. 7 and Apr. 21 from 6.30pm to 9pm. Tickets cost Block off the ides of April now if
VND874,000 and include all materials you love Leffe, Lutosa, Chimay and
On Thursday, Apr. 7, it’s time to and two glasses of wine. Groups of four Duvel, or any other beer brewed
make Light Sculptures. Let’s hope get 15% off, and teachers get 20% off. by robe-wearing monks in misty
you’re reading this online, or you To learn more, visit vin-space.com/ Belgian woods. Santé!
missed your chance to bend light canvas-and-wine or call 0907 729846 Tickets cost VND300,000 and are

ToDo
list HCMC
3
Product of Australia. Alcohol content: 12.5%
available at belgianbeerfestival.com. celebration of Australian food, Doors open at 10pm. Tickets

Cargo Bar is at 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, beverage and cuisine, with exciting are free before 11pm and cost
Q4, HCMC events being run across Hanoi, VND150,000 after.
Ho Chi Minh City and Central To learn more, visit The Observatory
Onslaught Vietnam. Experience Australian or Giegling on Facebook. You can also
Saigon Ranger, Q1 cuisine, high-quality Australian check out giegling.net, but they’re too
Friday, Apr. 15 produce, and full-bodied Australian cool to have a regular website with
wines through retail and restaurant actual information. The Observatory is
Onslaught — or rather, ONSLAUGHT! promotions, feature dinners, wine at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
*$%& YEAH! — are coming to Saigon tastings, supper club events, culinary
The Thai New Year, Songkran, is about to be celebrated in Saigon. Expect lots ‘n lots of water
to play their legendary album, The competitions and more. Songkran

Force, in full to celebrate their 30th At present, Mekong Merchant, Youth Cultural House, Q3
anniversary. Thrash Productions, Le Meridien and Caravelle Saigon Saturday, Apr. 16
Viet Thuong Music and Red Rock are have arranged their events and
proud to present this unique event: promotions, with a lot more venues Thai water festival Songkran is being
the first-ever visit to Vietnam by this to come. Simply check the website organised for the second time by
The Taste of Australia is coming to Saigon between Apr. 15 and Apr. 24
international thrash metal band. for info. Saigon Outcast, but this time, thanks
The veteran outfit was formed in To book your Taste of Australia to last year’s craziness, they’re
Konstantin Giegling will be spinning at the Observatory this month
1983 in Bristol, England by guitarist experience or get details please see moving the party to the Nha Van
Nige Rockett and drummer Steve tasteofaustralia.com.vn and facebook. Hoa Thanh Nien (Youth Cultural
Grice. Since then, they have released com/tasteofaustralia.vn House) in District 3.
Thrash metal band Onslaught are-a-comin’ to Saigon
a veritable onslaught of albums Come armed to the teeth or

and rocked faces on the road with Giegling buy water guns, water balloons
metal heroes such as Anthrax and The Observatory, Q4 and coloured powders, and
Motörhead. Saturday, Apr. 16 dispatch your fellow attendees to
Time to give Vietnam a bit of a clean up
Tickets cost VND300,000 and can a soundtrack provided by top local

be purchased through Ticketbox or by If underground dance music is and international DJs.
contacting vthrashproductions@gmail. your thing, The Observatory has a If dancing and waterfights don’t
com. The show starts at 8pm… if you’re treat in store: German record label spark your imagination, then ride the
metal enough. Saigon Ranger is at 5/7 Giegling is coming to town to drop slip n’ slide or go nuts in the bouncy
Nguyen Sieu, Q1, HCMC crazy beats mit Autorität. So prepare castle. If none of that sounds like fun,
to lawfully and efficiently get your your inner child went missing.
Taste of Australia groove on. Two of the cutting-edge Last year’s Saigon-kran was a
Central Ho Chi Minh City underground label’s founders will runaway smash, so buy tickets early
Apr. 15 to Apr. 24 be spinning, mixing and — dare I or stay dry. And remember, April is
hope? — beatboxing (but not really) the cruellest month... fear death by
Taste of Australia is a Vietnam-wide all night long. water-fight.
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For more info click on saigonoutcast. day on Sunday Apr. 17, the team are include — Pitchers, Shrine, Tavern,
com or go to facebook.com/saigonoutcast. working with bars and restaurants Tippy’s, Emergency Room, Chuck’s,
Early bird tickets are VND130,000, with in town (and Mui Ne) who will Quan Ut Ut, Chickeez, La Fiesta, La
general admission costing VND260,000. be organising clean-ups around Fenetre Soleil, Pasteur Street Brew
Tickets on the cost VND360,000 and their locales over the course of that House, Con Bo Map, Little Kingston
kids go for free. Tickets are available at weekend. Reggae Bar Mui Ne, and Soul
Saigon Outcast, deciBel and online at In addition to hosting the clean-ups Burger.
ticketbox.vn. Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien they will be offering great discounts Clean Up Vietnam want to raise
is at 4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, HCMC. on food and drink to all those who awareness of their initiative in it’s
You can also check out our article on register and participate. There will first year so that next year there
Songkran on page 24 also be prizes for people who collect will be a greater number of people
the most rubbish. Clean Up Vietnam willing to get involved.
Clean Up Vietnam will be providing waste bags and For more info, contact Scott
Central Ho Chi Minh City and Mui gloves for the clean-up events, as Alderson from Clean Up Vietnam via
Ne well as giveaways and prizes for cleanupvietnam.org or on director@
Sunday, Apr. 17 participants. They will also help with cleanupvietnam.org. Alternatively, get
the disposal of all rubbish collected. in touch Peter Cornish on Facebook via
As part of the Clean Up Vietnam Participating bars and restaurants facebook.com/peter.cornish1

ToDo
list HCMC
1 2
Pablo Valentino 2016 ANZAC Friendship Match Women Workshop Series returns for
The Observatory, Q4 Lord Mayor’s Oval, Vung Tau a second outing this May.
Friday, Apr. 22 Saturday, Apr. 23 On Wednesday, May 11, it’s the
Vision & Ideal Workshop. Open
DJ. Producer. Visionary. Sorcerer. The Vietnam Swans’ annual ANZAC yourself to new goals and learn
Pablo Valentino is coming to Ho Friendship Match returns to Vung the tools you need to make your
Chi Minh City to weave his unique, Tau on Apr. 23. The Swans will host inner vision an outer one. This is
nearly-unclassifiable brand of sonic the Jakarta Bintangs in the seventh followed by the Balancing Act of
Dragonfly Theatre’s latest production, an adaptation of Roald Dahl’s novel, George’s Marvellous Medicine
wizardry. Get ready, get set, get installment of this match, which sees Negotiation Workshop on Friday,
yourself to the Observatory to see Vietnam play different teams from May 13, which offers a suite of
Mr. Valentino do it his way. around the Asian region in an AFL negotiation tactics and strategies
Doors open at 10pm. Tickets game on the very ground where uniquely suited to help you
are free before 11pm and cost Australian troops played football negotiate your way to your desired
VND150,000 after. during the American War. outcome.
To learn more, visit The The day will include a mixed AFL On Wednesday, May 18 comes the
Observatory on Facebook or ask match, an Auskick kid’s clinic and Creativity, Innovation & Leadership
the coolest person you know. The a Legends vs All Stars match before Workshop to help you unlock your
Flower power. Well, maybe not. ND Baumecker plays Observatory on Apr. 23
Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat bounce-down of the blockbuster game inner potential for generating new
Bizet’s Carmen will be performed at the HCMC Opera House in early July
Thanh, Q4, HCMC between Vietnam and Jakarta. ideas and seeing them to fruition.
The McMillan Dinner will return this And finally, on Friday, May 20 the
ND_Baumecker year to the brand new Pullman hotel Happiness & Fulfilment Workshop
The Observatory, Q4 on the Saturday night, with tickets will address the ages-old, yet
The Inspiring Women series of workshops returns in May
Saturday, Apr. 23 available for purchase online. Money uniquely modern, problem: can you
raised through the day will be donated have it all?
Master eclecticist, raised in to the Swans’ key charities — Swim Each workshop runs from 8.30am
Frankfurt and now based in Berlin, Vietnam and Vung Tau Orphanage. to 12.30pm and costs VND5.5 million
where he holds a residency at the For more information or online dinner (US$250.) Each includes a coffee
Panoramabar and runs his own ticket sales visit vietnamswans.com/ break, and all necessary materials.
acclaimed label, ND_Baumecker, anzac-2016. Anyone interested in playing Tickets can be purchased via
cannot be put into any box, but can the mixed or Legends game can contact Ticketbox. To learn more, visit inspiring-
Yo, dude! It’s Pablo Valentino
definitely make the rooms he plays Maz at mairead.scanlon24@gmail.com. women.net and look through their
in shake. Scenesters will not want portfolio of events
to miss this one. Inspiring Women Workshop
Doors open at 10pm. Tickets Series George’s Marvellous
are free before 11pm and cost Hotel des Arts, 76-78 Nguyen Thi Medicine
VND150,000 after. Minh Khai, Q3 Saigon Outcast, Q2
The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen May 2016 May 28, May 29, Jun. 4 and Jun. 5
Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC or online at
facebook.com/theobservatoryhcmc Kicking off last year, the Inspiring Dragonfly Theatre will be staging
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3 5
their next production, the Roald Huong, Q2, HCMC vocal and instrumental parts.
Dahl classic, George’s Marvellous Carmen will be played by Nguyen
Medicine, at the end of May and in Carmen, The Opera Thanh Huyen while Don José will
early June. Ho Chi Minh City Opera House be performed by Patrick Garayt,
George’s nasty old grandma Jul. 1 and Jul. 2 with all other on-stage roles given
needs teaching a lesson, and he to lyrical singers based in Vietnam.
decides the best remedy is a special The most famous French opera in The orchestra will be conducted
homemade medicine. What follows the world, if not the most played, by Mr. Carlos Dourthé, musical
from there will only be discovered is coming to Saigon in a unique director of the Choir and Orchestra
if you come to the play, which artistic collaboration between of Paris Universities, and lead by
means an afternoon of interactive France and Vietnam. soloists from the French National
theatre, food and fun for all the The HCMC Conservatory of Orchestra, while the ensemble
family at Saigon Outcast. Music, the French Institute of Ho will be directed on stage by Brian
All performances start at 4pm and Chi Minh City and Lys Events will Riedlinger, the artistic director of
4
tickets are available at ticketbox.vn. To be staging George Bizet’s Carmen the International Choir & Orchestra
keep informed, visit Dragonfly Theatre for the first time ever in Vietnam of Ho Chi Minh City.
on facebook.com/dragonflyvietnam. on Jul. 1 and Jul. 2 at the Ho Chi For more information contact
These shows are expected to sell out Minh City Opera House. Tu Tho from Lys Events on tutho@
fast. So get your tickets quickly. This project will showcase talent lysevents.com or click on lysevents.
Saigon Outcast is at 188 Nguyen Van from Vietnam and France in both com
IN
PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN
Just
HCMC
Uncle Bill’s
opens in Q7,
the Singapore
Grand Prix, 1
new restau-
1
rants and a
soon to be 3
inaugurated
ambulance
service
PHOTO BY BAO ZOAN
2
PHOTO PROVIDED BY SINGAPORE GRAND PRIX 4
Love your sports? The new website saigonsportsbar.com might just be what you’re looking for
Uncles Bill’s Opens in thought you read could buy in To take advantage of this deal for
District 7 Vietnam. Well, now you can! the 2016 Formula 1 Singapore Grand
If you live in District 2, you’ll be The new Uncle Bill’s is at 1032 Prix, click on exotravel.com or email
Cars head down the Pit Straight at the start of 2015’s Singapore Grand Prix
no stranger to Uncle Bill’s. Open (S12-1) Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My formula1@exotravel.com. Alternatively
in Thao Dien for three years, and Hung, Q7, HCMC. The original store call (08) 3519 4111 ext. 17 or pop into
with a popular following among is at 26 Quoc Huong, Q2, HCMC the Thao Dien branch of Exo Travel at
The new Ho Tram Gallery Villas look nothing short of spectacular
the area’s residents, at the end of 41 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC

last year Uncle Bill’s extended its
TJake’s is located on the spot once occupied by Mogambo
reach to Phu My Hung, with the Exo Early Bird Tickets for F1
inauguration of its second shop in Singapore Saigon Sports Bar Website
Sky Garden, a stone’s throw from This year’s Formula 1 race in A new website has been launched
Vivo City. Singapore will take place on the intent on fulfilling all your sporting
Laid out with a modern and Marina Bay Street Circuit from Sep. desires, at least, if you live in
attractive retail ambience, the new 16 to Sep. 18, Exo Travel, the official Saigon, that is.
Uncle Bill’s stocks the same product Singapore Grand Prix agent in Found at saigonsportbar.com, the
The new MAD House in District 7
range as its District 2 counterpart. Vietnam, is presently offering Early site provides all the televised sports
Inside Uncle Bill’s in District 2
This includes more than 1,800 Bird tickets up until Apr. 30. listings you can think of — although
popular supermarket staples With savings available of up to not beach volleyball, folks — as well
running from household items all 12 percent, people who purchase as listings for the local expat sports.
the way through to personal care through the Early Bird route will It also tells you where you can
products, clothes, tools, electric also get the chance to enter a watch each particular game, match,
items, toys, party accessories, competition to meet their favourite test, face-off, bout, fight or meet.
stationary and office products. Formula 1 driver in an autograph The site is still in its development
It’s the kind of place that sells all session on Sep. 15, the day before phase, but for anyone who clicks on
those kind of goods that you never the start of the Grand Prix. its URL, you’ll see that it has great
4.
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PHOTO BY BAO ZOAN
potential as an invaluable resource MAD House is located on 2 Street jakesamericanbbq.com for more info
for people living in this city. C, Phu My Hung, Q7, HCMC. For
more info visit their facebook page at
facebook.com/MADhouseD7 Ho Tram Gallery Villas
MAD House Opens in District 7 The Ho Tram Project Company has
MAD House has just welcomed announced the opening of sales on
its second edition in District 7. Jake’s American BBQ the latest feature of its Ho Tram Strip
Located on the second floor of Opened in February Jake’s lies development, the Gallery Villas. The
Capri by Fraser, the new version quietly on Pasteur next to Number 60, three-bedroom villas join The
of the Danish-run eatery is airy 5 Bar, on the site formerly occupied Grand Ho Tram Strip and Vietnam’s
and comfortable offering a luxury by Mogambo’s. This American BBQ best golf course, The Bluffs Ho Tram
indoor experience with well- and bar has a simple, diner-themed Strip, as part of this up-and-coming
designed chairs and tables. There interior with a long bar counter beachside destination.
are also separate, VIP sections for taking up half the space. Located less than two hours from
those who like their privacy. Focusing on American cuisine, Ho Chi Minh City, the villas feature
Serving up contemporary, the menu runs the gamut from unobstructed sea vistas from the
European-influenced cuisine, the classic Caesar salads through to dunes of The Bluffs and range in
menu has a wide range of options burgers, BBQs and desserts, and size from 800 to 1,700sqm. Each
from starters (going from VND45,000) according to both Jake himself and property is set over two floors,
and main courses (starting from a number of customers, the joint has blending indoor and outdoor living
VND175,000) to grills (VND375,000 been busy almost from day one. spaces with terraces and private
for a 250g Australian strip loin) and Jake’s is running a daily two-for-one swimming pools.
seafood. A well thought out wine list happy hour on Tiger draft and house For more information visit
is also on offer as is a wide selection spirits from 3pm to 6pm and is located galleryvillashotram.com or
drinks and cocktails. at 50 Pasteur, Q1. HCMC. Visit thebluffshotram.com

Just
HCMC IN
1
Last year’s winners of the Saigon Cyclo Challenge, AIM, were pipped to the post by new champions, Guardian
Saigon Cyclo Challenge SCC go to saigonchildren.com they should dispatch an ambulance.

This year’s Saigon Cyclo Challenge Used in 52 countries around the
Ambulances ready themselves for action for the new Emergency Medical Response Center
organised by Saigon Children’s world, it enables the dispatcher

Charity at Celadon City (Tan New Emergency Medical to provide full life-saving support
Phu) attracted around 2,000 Response Center Passes to the victim or person calling the
attendees and raised almost First Test service while they are waiting for
US$25,000 to support Saigon A soon-to-be completed Emergency the ambulance to arrive.
Children’s Charity in its mission Medical Response Center in Ho The simulation started at 2.30pm
of ‘Eliminating Poverty through Chi Minh City went through a full at the Emergency Response Center
Education’. Working towards its simulation of its ProQA software on the 12th Floor of Ho Chi Minh
25th Anniversary next year (1992 programme last month. City’s Diamond Plaza. The call
to 2017), SCC is aiming to provide Operating 24/7 and accessible came from a person living in
2,500 scholarships and build 16 in both Vietnamese and English Saigon Pearl in Ho Chi Minh City’s
schools during 2016. via the number *9999, the Binh Thanh District. Her request
This year’s event welcomed 12 privately-run Emergency Medical was an ambulance for her sister,
competitive teams from a variety Response Center will have its who had just gone into labour.
of industries and organisations. own strategically placed fleet of During the simulation, the call
Each race heat mixed cyclo racing international standard ambulances taker was able to ask a number of
with team challenges portraying to respond to the emergency needs questions that then allowed her to
the daily life of students in the of patients. Initially, limited to give advice to the caller on how to
Mekong Delta. In the Grand Final, Districts 1, 2, and 3 within Ho Chi deliver the baby. By the time the
Guardian, taking part for the first Minh City, the Emergency Medical ambulance arrived, just over six
time, won a spectacular victory Response Center will be in full minutes after the original call, the
over returning team AIM and two operation by the end of May 2016. baby had already been delivered.
former champions, Nutrifort who ProQA software is one of The Emergency Medical Response
came second, and Caravelle Saigon the key elements of this service Center is run by Family Medical
who went home in third place. and prompts the call taker what Practice. For more information click on
To find out more about the work of questions to ask and whether or not vietnammedicalpractice.com
2.
1.

ToDo
listHanoi
Art and
comedy,
comedy and
art, with
the odd
underground
DJ thrown in
for fun. This
month Hanoi 3
gets creative
1
3. Between Apr. 9 and Apr. 19, contemporary art will be coming to the streets of Hanoi. Here’s a map of the locations
A Night with Aidan Killian Described by Chortle as a Hong Kong, on boats and rooftops
CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung “Wonderful story teller” and a alike. Ouissam will bring his
Thursday, Apr. 7 comedian giving a “Master class in experience and passion for seeking
satire,” he will be supported by up the deepest, most sophisticated,
Anyone lamenting the closure of and coming American comic, Sam dancefloor-inspired grooves from
House of Son Tinh and the regular Thomas, who will be returning to his collection to spin in CAMA’s
5. An image from the latest exhibition by French photographer, Sébastian Laval
comedy nights hosted by this much Vietnam for the umpteenth time. intimate setting.
loved venue need not fear. The Also on the roster are the amateur Tickets cost VND50,000 on the door.
laughter is returning, but from now comics of the Hanoi Comedy CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai
Irish gagster Aidan Killian will be performing in Hanoi this month
on it will be hosted at CAMA ATK. Collective. Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm,
Opening a new roster of shows Entrance is VND200,000 and although the bar opens at 6pm
will be Irish stand-up Aidan includes a complimentary Magners
Killian. His second trip to Vietnam Irish Cider. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Artworks on the Street
4. Former Das Racist member, Heems, returns to ATK
Ouissam performing last year somewhere in China
but his first to Hanoi, the Irish Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi and the Around Central Hanoi
gagster is known for his intelligent, show starts at 8.30pm. For bookings Apr. 9 to 19
impassioned and hilarious rants and info, email Dan on dan@highway4.
that have led to appearances on BBC com “Art should be accessible,” says the
Newsnight, RTE, 98 FM, 4FM, Spin resident curator at Manzi Art Space.
FM the Vodafone Comedy Festival Ouissam “We are therefore bringing art to
and gigs at some of the largest CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung public spaces where everyone can
comedy festivals on this planet. Friday, Apr. 8 see, enjoy, interact or wonder about
This year he has already taken the the work.”
stage at the Perth Comedy Fringe Expect a great evening of disco, Well over a year in the making,
and Adelaide Comedy Festival in soulful and afro-inspired house the result of Manzi’s desire to
Australia, and confirmed on his when Ouissam, head honcho of broaden audience for contemporary
schedule is the Glastonbury Festival Cliché Records, comes to town. art is Into Thin Air. Ten artworks
in the UK and his sixth one-man Cliché is renowned for booking will move out of the galleries and
show at the Edinburgh Fringe. the best house and disco parties in onto the streets this month with
2.
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4
works by artists including Le where he performed one of the Once reserved exclusively for royalty,
Giang, Nguyen Manh Hung, Bui stand-out gigs of 2014. Following tranquil Westlake now boasts
Cong Khanh, Nguyen The Son, the break-up of his hip-hop outfit
Hanoi’s Gold-Standard serviced residences.
Nhung Nguyen, Crazy Monkey, Das Racist, Heems released his
Think Playground, Echoes and official debut album, Eat Pray Minutes from the city with unobstructed
Nguyen Quoc Thanh. The works Thug in 2015 at the same time lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers
will be set up in ten different as an exhibition of his artwork
Hanoi locations over the 10-day opened at the Aicon Gallery in
you the award-winning service even
exhibition period. New York City. ancient kings would envy.
Into Thin Air is designed with Tickets cost VND100,000 in
the following aims: advance. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai
— To encourage artists to Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi.
think more about their social Doors are at 8pm, although the bar
responsibilities opens at 6pm
— To enable more access to
art for the local public Laval’s Latest Show
— To build awareness and Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel,
appreciation for contemporary Hoan Kiem
arts among a local audience via Apr. 14 to Apr. 24
interactive and participatory art
projects in public spaces Renowned French photographer
Sébastian Laval will be exhibiting THE FRASER COLLECTION
— To contribute to the
BAHRAIN • BANGALORE • BANGKOK • BEIJING • BUDAPEST •
development of a free and open his latest body of photos at the
CHENGDU • DOHA • DUBAI • EDINBURGH • GLASGOW •
art scene via the promotion of Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel GUANGZHOU • GURGAON • HANOI • HO CHI MINH CITY •
freedom of artistic creation and this month. The new work HONG KONG • ISTANBUL • JAKARTA • KUALA LUMPUR •
cultural expression represents a distinct departure LONDON • MANILA • MELBOURNE • NANJING • NEW DELHI •
For more info on the artworks from his classic black and white, OSAKA • PARIS • PERTH • SEOUL • SHANGHAI •
and the locations, click on facebook. with dramatic works in colour SHENZHEN • SINGAPORE • SUZHOU • SYDNEY • TIANJIN •
com/intothinairhanoi or check out taken from 6pm until 6am in WUHAN • WUXI • CHENNAI (2014) • AL KHOBAR (2015) •
FRANKFURT (2015) • RIYADH (2014)
the location map on this page Hanoi along with his most
recent new works taken at night
Heems in Hue. The rich colours of the
CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung two cities at night are highlights
Saturday, Apr. 9 of the exhibition, which will be
located in L’Orangerie and the
Rapper, visual artist, record label surrounding gardens.
owner, Punjabi-American and The Sofitel Legend Metropole
native New Yorker, Himanshu Hotel is at 5 Ngo Quyen, Hoan
“Heems” Suri returns to CAMA Kiem, Hanoi

ToDo
listHanoi
1
2 3
Remembering Bui Xuan Phai earlier focus on the ancient fading workshops with LGBTQ-identified
Apricot Hotel, Hoan Kiem beauty of Hanoi, where she curated artists conducted by Viet Kieu artist
From Apr. 14 the exhibition and publication Lost & Erin O’Brien, the exhibition on Apr.
Found Hanoi. 22 will focus on using technology
The Apricot Hotel will host a Art Vietnam Gallery is at 24 Ly Quoc to tell the personal stories of queer
collection of artworks by the late Bui Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi artists, by creating holographic videos
Xuan Phai, deemed one of Vietnam’s that can be downloaded from the
most “remarkable and charismatic” Minicreatures internet and projected via iPhone or
artists. This is the first time the works Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh tablet. The programme is supported
have been showcased publicly. The From Apr. 22 to May 22 by American Arts Incubator, an entity
4. Viet Kieu artist Erin O’Brien will be leading a series of workshops this month at Nha San
art will hang in the neo-classical lobby that facilitates exchange between
of the five-star hotel, complementing overseas artists and underserved
the hotel’s permanent collection of Creating a personal visual map of communities.
The late Bui Xuan Phai is one of Vietnam’s best-known and most revered artists
An image from this month’s exhibition at Art Vietnam, Still Lifes from a Vanishing City
original Vietnamese artwork. The urban space and recreating it in For info click on facebook.com/
hotel will display seven of Phai’s miniature is the passion of artist Vu NhaSanCollective. Nha San Collective
paintings, alongside an array of Kim Thu, and the result will be on is on the 15th Floor of Hanoi Creative
works illustrating Hanoi’s streets by display at Manzi for one month. City, 1 Luong Yen, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi.
renowned Vietnamese artists who As the artist herself notes: “When To see more about Nha San, turn to the
followed in Phai’s footsteps. travelling, I navigate a new city and feature article on page 14
3. A Minicreature Landscape will kick off at Manzi on Apr. 22
Apricot Hotel is at 136 Hang Trong, draw the city in the form of map. The
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi layout of maps generates structures Queer Disco
5. Queer Disco continues its monthly parties at ATK
and orientation that I fill with linear CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung
Tales from a Vanishing City details evoking streets, population, Friday, Apr. 22
Art Vietnam Gallery, Hoan Kiem traffic and architecture. Slowly, I
Apr. 15 to Apr. 29 create a miniature city out of my Once again, ATK is the location
drawing, paper sculptures and light.” for that monthly dose of fem-pop,
Art Vietnam Gallery will present Entry is free. catwalks, glamour, pop hits, sultry
Still Lifes from a Vanishing City, Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy DJs and more. This is the time to
photographs and essays from Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. For more info, please paaaaaaarty, and with an after-
Yangon, Myanmar, the work of click on facebook.com/manzihanoi show bash following the same-day
the photographer, poet and writer, exhibition at Nha San by LGBTQ-
Elizabeth Rush. The book creates a Exhibition at Nha San identified artists, expect this month’s
snapshot of Yangon and its residents Hanoi Creative City, Hai Ba Trung offering to be big, big, big.
as the city prepares for enormous Friday, Apr. 22 CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De,
transformation over the next few Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm,
years. This work complements her The culmination of a series of although the bar opens at 6pm
2.
1.

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Just
Hanoi
Topas
Ecolodge,
IN
a new taco
1
bar, Club
Med and
a public
PHOTO BY NGUYEN VAN TRUONG / FFI

library
2 3
Topas Ecolodge Summer the Topas Mountain Express, straight 500 to that count. Doucs are targeted
Promotion from Hanoi to the lodge for the illegal wildlife trade and are
Anyone put off by the new highway hunted for bush meat, traditional
to Sapa and the cable car to the medicine and the pet trade.
top of Fansipan, Vietnam’s highest Novotel Suites Opening FFI is presently working on the
mountain, should dispense with the Promotion possibility of running ecotourism
A new population of the endangered grey-shanked douc has been discovered in the Central Highlands
‘argh’ factor. One resort in the Sapa The Novotel Suites, located in Hanoi journeys through the forest,
region still stays loyal to the charm New Urban Area, is on target to open during which visitors would get to
of the mountains that has made this in May and has announced its line-up experience the extraordinary beauty
location so famous. of features. These include offering of the jungle and people of the Central
Situated 18km from the main the first apartments in Hanoi with Highlands as well as the possibility of
city and surrounded by beautiful their own terrace. Superior studios seeing the douc in the wild.
mountains, valleys and remote rent for VND36.2 million per month, For more information, email
minority villages, Topas Ecolodge with a 10% discount for stays over communications.vietnam@fauna-flora.
is one of those places that has been one month. The complex includes a org or click on www.fauna-flora.org
Club Med on Bintan Island in Indonesia, a short boat ride from Singapore
built and run on the concept of 24/7 fitness centre, outdoor heated
A new English language library has opened in Trich Sai on West Lake
Maison de Tet Décor has now added Vietnamese cuisine to its menu
A rendering of an apartment in the new Novotel Suites in Cau Giay
sustainability. The majority of the staff swimming pool, sauna and jacuzzi,
have been hired from the local villages full hotel service with 24-hour Vietnamese Home-Style
and the property is on a constant reception, restaurant and bars, plus Cuisine at Maison de Tet
drive to give back to the local area. 24-hour room service. A recent regeneration of their food
Tex-Mex comes to Hanoi in the form of Hanoi Taco Bar
To encourage you, the ardent Novotel Suites is at 5 Duy Tan, Cau menu has seen Maison de Tet decor
traveller and lover of wonderful Giay, Hanoi or online at suitenovotel.com. add modern Vietnamese cuisine with
locations, to make that trip up to the For more info call Tel: (04) 3576 6666 or a focus on light flavours to its dining
northwest of Vietnam, throughout email info@novotelsuiteshanoi.com options.
May and June, 2016 the resort is Aiming to serve only the
Topas Ecolodge Summer Promotion
offering 20 percent off all room freshest ingredients, most sourced

nights. Perfect for anyone wanting Hope for Endangered Primate organically from Maison de Tet
to relax in the peaceful mountain Fauna & Flora International (FFI) is décor’s farm, the sauces, marinades
atmosphere while enjoying the views. celebrating the discovery of a new and relishes are made in-house daily.
And perfect for anyone who wants population of the elusive grey- Some of the dinner menu items
to hike along hidden trails and get shanked douc, a critically endangered are gluten free and many of them
a taste of the untainted local ethnic primate which is found only in vegetarian.
culture and their unique way of life. Vietnam’s Central Highlands. It was For more info go to tet-lifestyle-
To take advantage of Topas’s summer thought there were only 800 to 1,000 collection.com or pop into the café-cum-
promotion, click on topasecolodge.com. grey-shanked doucs left in the world, restaurant at Villa 156, Tu Hoa, Nghi
The resort also offers a limousine service, but the new discovery adds at least Tam Village, Tay Ho, Hanoi
4.
6.
2.
3.
5.
7.
1.

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA
4 6
PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA
7
PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA
Hanoi Taco Bar books and board games. Serving his products at a range
Opened in late February in the With over 7,000 books in stock — of diverse events around Hanoi,
Old Quarter, Hanoi Taco Bar is it took a whole year to collect these his prices cost from VND30,000 to
aiming to mix the taste of Tex- books in Singapore — and more VND40,000 a dish. For more info
Mex with the atmosphere of a than 200 board games including click on Facebook.com/foodcarthanoi
contemporary, rustic-style bar. anything from heavy strategy
Serving up a range of tacos through to children’s party games,
— each costing VND40,000 to the family friendly centre is open Exo Travel Takes on Club
VND50,000 a go — also on the Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to Med
menu are chips and dips (from 10pm, and charges minimal prices The Hanoi and Saigon-based
VND25,000), a range of mains for people to play games or use travel agency Exo Travel has been
(from VND45,000) and the already their services. Reading on site is appointed the Vietnam agent for
famous bun cha tacos (VND50,000). free of charge. Club Med.
Everything here is homemade Lotus Community is at 11 Trich The pioneer of the holiday club
including the pickles and sauces. Sai, Tay To, Hanoi, Tel: 0934 504 concept, Club Med offers high-
With gluten-free and vegan 804. You can find them online at end, friendly and multicultural
options available, the cuisine is lotuscommunity.org.vn holidays for families and couples.
matched by a unique cocktail With resorts in 26 countries,
selection with most of the drinks it boasts 80 Villages on five
put together with local ingredients Food Cart continents as well as the cruise
and homemade syrups. Other people have tried pop up ship Club Med 2.
Hanoi Taco Bar is at 6 Dao Duy food carts in Hanoi in the past, In Southeast and East Asia
Tu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or online at but the one put together by foodie there are presently resorts in
hanoitacobar.com. The venue runs Javier Rodriguez could be a winner. China, Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia
regular events including live music, “I want to make innovative and Thailand including places
DJ nights and film screenings and creative food and put it like Bintan Island in Indonesia,
on a cart,” he explains. “I like a stone’s throw from Singapore.
to take classic foods and put Set on a picturesque beachfront,
Lotus Community my spin on them. I mostly do Club Med Bintan Island has 311
Based on the idea of creating TexMex because that’s what I rooms designed with modernity
a learning community where grew up cooking and eating, but and comfort in mind, and is
people can come together to the concept is more like TexMex surrounded by tropical greenery.
learn in a fun and interesting meets the world. I hand-make For more info click on
way, Lotus Community opened pretty much everything. I really discoverclubmed.co.id/en/ or call Exo
last month with a public English love this food and I want people Travel on (04) 3828 2150 (Hanoi) or
language library and a focus on to feel that when they eat it.” (08) 3519 4111 (HCMC)
Insider
Landing on Water / Ascending Long Bien Bridge / In the Beginning There Wasn’t the Word / Arsenic and Old Lace /
Night and Day at the Flower Market / 24 Hour Cafes / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Pho Vit Quay / Mystery Diner HCMC /
The Best Banh Xeo in Saigon / Bangkok in Squares / The Best Restaurants in Phnom Penh / 10 Destinations in
Vietnam to Visit in 2016 / Notes From Another City: Danang, Why? / The Motorbike Diaries Part 13
Photo by Julie Vola

Insider

INSIDER NATIONAL
Landing on Water
As the Hai Au Seaplane service attests, travel is not just about the destination, but the
experience of getting there. Emily Petsko and Julie Vola fly by seaplane to Halong Bay
D
ucking their heads at the entrance, they will get excitement and unparalleled
the first eight passengers of the views.
morning file into a cramped “I want to set the expectation that this is
Cessna Caravan plane at Noi Bai more of an experiential adventure product
International Airport. rather than something that is too expensive
In the event of an emergency, life jackets and only for the rich,” says Hai Au
should not be inflated inside the aircraft, managing director Dinh Thi Thu Trang.
the pilot calls back from the cockpit. After The brainchild of Tran Trong Kien, the
all, you wouldn’t want to get stuck in the founder and current CEO of Thien Minh
doorway. Group, Hai Au’s mother company, Kien
A middle-aged couple shoots each other was inspired by the Australian seaplane
nervous glances as the plane accelerates service at Rose Bay in Sydney. Through
down the runway. Taking off is the easy part, his travel agency, Buffalo Tours, he played
though. It’s the landing — smack dab in the a significant role in bringing kayaking to
heart of Halong Bay — that’s a bit trickier. Halong Bay 20 years ago. Now he wants to
Tourists travelling to the UNESCO World instill in Vietnamese tourism the concept
Heritage site typically go by car or bus, but of transportation as an integral part of the
now another option exists. Hai Au Aviation, sightseeing experience.
which took off towards the end of 2014, The result is a flight from Hanoi to Halong
established the first and so far the only Bay that includes a 15-minute scenic flyover
commercial seaplane service in Vietnam. (starting from US$275 or VND6.1 million
After completing its first full year of one way), but customers can also opt for a
operations in 2015 and attracting mostly separate, 25-minute scenic tour of the bay
retired and honeymooning couples from (US$99 / VND2.2 million).
Europe and North America, the airline is Good weather permitting, the water
now hoping to target a new market — expats landing off the coast of Tuan Chau Island
and local Vietnamese. is remarkably smooth. The aircraft glides
On the one-hour flight from Hanoi to across the water to a ramp leading ashore,
Halong Bay, passengers won’t get coffee, where passengers can board a golf cart to
a plastic-wrapped lunch or their choice of their hotels or cruise ships.
cheesy action flick on the small screen. But But the impression that landing on water
is easy is an artful deception.
“It’s like night and day,” chief pilot David
Radford says of the difference between
landing on land and water.
Radford explains that it takes a long time
to feel comfortable with water landings
because the approach is largely dependent
on wind direction, and water isn’t able to
absorb the impact.
“Water doesn’t have much give. When
you land on asphalt, you bounce,” he says,
adding that the adventure factor adds to the
appeal. “It’s very thrilling.”
The two captains both hail from Canada,
world-renowned for its seaplane services.
Four Vietnamese co-pilots are in the process
of being trained to someday go it alone. One
co-pilot has a background as a historian and

“‘You can almost reach
out and grab those
islands at Halong Bay,
we’re so close to them.
This is one (place) that
needs to be seen from
a bird’s eye view. You
just don’t get the same
benefit from the water
looking up’”

“For Hai Au Aviation,
the low-flying trip over
Hanoi and Halong Bay
is not just a scenic
pursuit — it’s also a
history lesson”

diplomat, and another was among the first its inception, has made the journey countless almost disapprovingly, as Sainteny takes a
Vietnamese to climb Mt. Everest. times. Yet the thrill of seeing those peaks has large puff on a pipe.
“I think our pilots have a lot to offer in not fizzled out yet. Jump forward to the early 1960s and war
terms of their stories,” says Trang. “I see something new every day,” he says, had descended upon the nation. The area
whether it be a fishing village, uninhabited now known as Noi Bai Airport served as the
Bird’s Eye View island or karst peak. main base for the North Vietnamese air force.
A typical Hai Au flight from Hanoi to “You can almost reach out and grab those Vietnamese aircraft took off from the base to
Halong Bay reaches an altitude of about 900 islands at Halong Bay, we’re so close to them. intercept US fighter-bombers that had been
meters (3,000 feet) above sea level. During This is one (place) that needs to be seen from launching an aerial attack on Hanoi and
the scenic leg of the flight, the aircraft drops a bird’s eye view. You just don’t get the same surrounding areas.
down to 100 to 150 meters. Compare that to benefit from the water looking up.” “The airspace over Noi Bai Airport has
the average commercial airliner’s altitude witnessed some of the most violent air wars
of between 9,000 and 12,000 meters, and it’s Long History in Flying of the 20th century,” according to a Hai Au
evident why the seaplane is such a coveted While Hai Au is the first commercial informational recording that has not yet been
mode of transportation. seaplane service in Vietnam, it builds upon used during flights.
On a clear day, the details of the landscape a long national aviation history that can “To this day, in the rice paddies
come into sharp focus. Motorbikes chug be attributed in no small part to French surrounding the airport, one can still
along narrow paths, farmers toil in the fields colonialism. In December 1920, a French pilot find the legacy of their unhappy history
and, upon arriving in Halong Bay, massive flew one of the first seaplanes in Vietnam with numerous bomb craters dotting the
ships leave trails in their wake like slugs on from Hai Phong to Hanoi, and landed just off landscape, many of which have been turned
a pavement. West Lake. into water reservoirs for farmers’ crops.”
From above, the Red River Delta weaves Three years later, a French sub-lieutenant For Hai Au Aviation, the low-flying trip
a breathtaking tapestry of lines, shapes and and two Vietnamese engineers made the first over Hanoi and Halong Bay is not just a
angles in varying shades of green. Its fields non-stop flight from Ho Chi Minh City to scenic pursuit — it’s also a history lesson.
and ponds, cordoned off in neat sections, Hanoi, which took a whopping eight hours
seem to stretch in patchwork perpetuity. and 30 minutes compared to the two-hour Tourism Boom
But the symmetry is eventually flight passengers enjoy nowadays. By 1923, The seaplane service marks a larger trend
interrupted, quite abruptly, by a wilder Indochina had 60 landing strips. in the continued development of Halong
backdrop of turquoise waters and jagged The French built and operated two Bay. Yet going forward, Hai Au wants to
peaks. If the area surrounding Hanoi can be seaplane bases between 1946 and 1954, expand its services and offer flights to other
compared to a cubist Picasso painting, then which served as a recreational outlet for the destinations. The airline will begin offering
Halong Bay is surely a Dali with its surreal, military. One was on Hanoi’s West Lake, and trips to Ninh Binh this summer.
dreamlike landscape. the other was situated at Bai Chay in Halong Last year, Hai Au served more than 5,000
Halong Bay, which literally means Bay. passengers, and it hopes to double that
“descending dragon”, somehow appears Perhaps the most iconic photo from this number in 2016.
even more immense from above. chapter of aviation history is an image from “This is not necessarily a high-end
“There’s a huge ‘wow’ factor when you March 1946 of President Ho Chi Minh and product,” says Trang. “This is more of
come over that coastline,” says Radford of French Commissioner Jean Sainteny aboard a ‘you gotta try it’, once-in-a-lifetime
the quick change in scenery. “The spine of a Catalina seaplane en route to Halong Bay experience.”
the dragon just comes up.” to meet with French military officials. The On our trip to Halong Bay and back, that was
Radford, who has been with Hai Au since Vietnamese leader seems to look on sternly, certainly how we felt. It was spectacular.

“The two captains both hail from Canada,
world-renowned for its seaplane services. Four
Vietnamese co-pilots are in the process of
being trained to someday go it alone”

Insider

g
HANOI
o n
INSIDER
e n d i n g L
Asc r i d g e
Bien B

Chris Humphrey meets with Vietclimb’s Jean Verly for a first taste of urbexing:
scaling the rusting dragon that is Long Bien Bridge.
U
rban exploration, urbex, or UE like garden weeds in the big cities. The ever hear.
is a form of recreational urban country’s poor building standards create a Regaining my assertiveness, I found a
trespass. Urbexers find a way in serious safety issue, but still the possibilities way through. As I crossed the dawn chorus
to anything from derelict theme must be numerous. There was only one morphed from birdsong to motorbike horns.
parks, sewers and asylums to factories, way to find out. Thankfully, Jean Verly of I held my camera close as I reached the
skyscrapers, missile silos and power Vietclimb had agreed to meet me for an early fence.
stations. Usually they begin in abandoned morning climbing session. Photography plays a big part in urban
ruins, searching for beauty in dereliction. I waited for Jean not far from the bustle exploration. The most prominent example
Of course it doesn’t have to stop there. and scent of Long Bien Market, leaning is the ‘hero shot’; backlit adventurers
You could ascend skyscrapers, or lift against my bike on the ramp that winds up silhouetted in front of cityscapes or
manhole covers for subterranean jaunts. to the bridge. We planned to meet early, in underground tunnels. The name of which
If you choose to descend you’re a drainer. the hope of climbing with the sunrise and is also evidence of the scene’s developing
On the other hand, cataphiles delve into perhaps missing some of the rush. Both phraseology. This new way of interacting
catacombs, such as those found in Paris, expectations were dismantled by the grey with the city requires a whole new lexis.
Rome and Odessa. clouds and our own underestimation of ‘Buildering’ refers to the use of rock-
Others refer to UE as building hacking Hanoi’s early morning liveliness. The roads climbing techniques when scaling buildings.
or infiltration, although the latter refers to were already thick with motorbikes. ‘Lift surfing’ and ‘ruin porn’, amongst many
accessing ‘live’ spaces or secure locations. One of the bikes started to slow as others, are self-explanatory. My personal
That may sound destructive, but according it approached, the rider’s orange shirt favourite is ‘Xmas’, a time when security
to Jeff Chapman, author of Infiltration, urban standing out against the grey. It was Jean. barely exists, and long sought-after sites
explorers “never vandalize, steal or damage become accessible.
anything”. Their desire is one of discovery Chorus As these terms suggest, though, there
and the chance to take “a few nice pictures”. We swung round the little park on the are serious risks. Some are extremely dire;
western shore and started heading back, slipping from scaffolding, impaling yourself
Opportunities before parking up against the railing on metal spikes, drowning in sewage or
On the face of it, Vietnam seems ripe with halfway across. I showed Jean a diagonal inhaling toxic dust. Then there’s the legal
opportunities; semi-rural areas are littered section that essentially acted as a kind of threat. You could be tried for trespassing,
with abandoned buildings, while new ladder. “Just go through,” Jean said, the most breaking and entering, perhaps even damage
constructions and cranes are springing up useful advice a newcomer to this city will to property. And yet the unspoken rule is

that of the country hiker; ‘take nothing but “And what about in Hanoi?” I asked. reasons; some just for kicks, others are
photos, leave nothing but footprints.’ “Well...,” he hesitated, “I was thinking trying to prove a point. Danger is clearly
Eventually we reached the inner railing earlier about maybe bouldering on the first a core element of the scene. The thrill
and began to climb. Hand-over-hand on the floor of the water tower, but that would be provides the impetus; the anarchy is the
rusting iron limb, until we reached the mid- more for the photo opportunity. And we attraction. Perhaps it’s for that reason that
section. “You have to put your head through climb sometimes on the gate of Dong Da the movement’s rise in popularity has been
the gap and lift yourself up,” I say to Jean, Park, but that’s arranged. I guess we might met with increasing criticism. Opponents
who’s just behind me. not call it urban exploration.” depict it as witless, needlessly dangerous or
We came up onto the last section, a steeply “The movement is really just beginning just plain illegal.
sloping girder leading to the highest point, in Vietnam,” he continued. “It’s mainly But perhaps that’s missing the point. One
walking slowly to stay safe. There was in Saigon and Hanoi, and there’s a mix of the best things to result from urbex is
barely a breeze today, which helped, and no of people that get involved. Expats and that, no matter what your opinion, it draws
passing trains to shake the bridge. We must Vietnamese. But I guess one of the good our attention to the debate over private and
have been about 40 metres above the river things here is that… you don’t have the public spaces; what should be accessible in
when we reached the top. It felt glorious. crazy CCTV culture you have in places like modern cities? Is it possible to re-appropriate
London. So there aren’t so many barriers to space?
Unnoticed getting involved.” Whatever your viewpoint, one thing is
Cargo ships passed underneath, so heavily Perhaps the idea of capturing people undeniable. You don’t need anything to do it.
burdened with goods that they were barely on film sparked the thought... I suddenly Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed
afloat. A few men swam in the river, with realised we were missing something crucial; in this article are those of the author and do not
plastic bottles tied to their bodies to help the ‘hero shot’. I told Jean and returned necessarily reflect those of Word Vietnam
them stay afloat. Ladies in conical hats sold to the steeply sloping girder, this time
barbecued corn to pedestrians. Nobody crouching and pushing with my hands to
seemed to notice that we were there. shoe-ski quickly down the rusty metal to
We walked as far as we could along the the mid-level point. I stepped back down
horizontal struts, then headed back to cross the diagonal limb and crossed the traffic to
the support beams. As we explored I asked reach the edge. Looking up, I could see Jean
Jean about other urbex experiences he’d still up there, statue-like against the clouds
been involved in. “We bouldered in some as I took the shot. To onlookers, he may look
abandoned construction sites in An Khanh,” either suicidal or courageous, depending on
he said, as he looked down the Red River, their perspective. In many ways that sums
“but that was a private group, we can’t up people’s attitudes to urbex in general.
really... advise that at Vietclimb, it might not Urbex will probably always be divisive.
be legal.” People are drawn to it for a number of

In the Beginning
There Wasn’t the Word
Everyone’s got their own version of
history. This is our version.
I
n November 2010 we ran an tack. Rather than being edgy
article with the following and controversial — yes, we
opening paragraph: “We know everyone loves a good
would love to say that this scandal — we’re being positive.
month is the fifth anniversary of 100 issues is a lot of work, a lot
The Word. It isn’t but it should of sweat, blood and held-back
be.” tears. To get this far it’s been all
Without intending it to be so, about people; the people who’ve
what followed was incendiary. made this happen, the people
Not only did the piece bring who’ve supported us, and the
up the past — this publication people who read what we do.
and another well-known rag You.
emerged out of a messy business While there will be some
break-up — but it also talked history involved — we all love
about how all these English a good yarn — we’re going
language publications in to focus on celebrating all the
Vietnam came into being in the man-hours put in to bring you,
first place. It gave some history. free of charge, what we believe
But this is the problem with is a quality publication. From
history. Everyone has his or your own comments through
her own angle on the past, to different uses for the Word
meaning that out of necessity, it all the way over to our best
is subjective. As it turned out, articles, front covers and letters,
our version of events differed this month’s cover story is a
substantially from the version of celebration of a publication
our former business partners. that was created to make a
So this month as we turn difference. We believe we
100, we’re taking a different continue to do so.
A Short History
of Word
This is how it all started. It’s a long story
February 2005
The idea for Saigon
Inside Out is first
discussed in
Singapore while the August 2006
1994 present chief editor, Saigon Inside Out
What’s On in Saigon Nick Ross, and one publishes for the last
is published. of the founders of time. 10 issues in
The expat rag is What’s On in Saigon and due to licensing
produced in Saigon, are working together problems the people
printed in Bangkok on the relaunch of behind the rag are
and imported into a magazine called asked to change its
Vietnam. Education. name.
1996 November 2005 October 2006

After 18 months, After months of The first issue of
What’s On in Saigon preparation, the first Asialife HCMC hits
prints its last issue. issue of Saigon Inside the streets. With one
Vietnam is just Out hits the streets partner leaving and
opening up and with a launch party another one getting
the country is not at now defunct bar, involved, work gets
ready for them. Bottom Line. Well- underway to expand
The two founders known musician with an edition in
of the publication Juram provides the Cambodia.
leave Vietnam. One tunes, while well
of them ends up in over 300 revelers and
Singapore. the venue provide
the party.
July 2013 CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC
VIETNAM EDITION
JULY
LY 2013
L
Word Ho Chi Minh

City and Word Ha
Noi are combined
into one publication,
Word Vietnam. At first
readers from each
city are irritated by
December 2006 January 2008 having to read (or ER
Issue 1 of Asialife The first issue of not read) content SUMM IN'
LOV
Phnom Penh goes Word Ho Chi Minh from elsewhere. But
onto the magazine City hits the streets. over time the city
stands. Printed in Ho The launch party is rivalry begins to
Chi Minh City, the at Xu Saigon and the dissipate and readers
magazine is exported first advertiser in get used to the fact
to the Cambodian the magazine is Bien that Vietnam is a big
capital by bus. from Xu. country.
October 2007 November 2009 April 2016

After months of After much Word celebrates its
infighting, the deliberation, Word 100th issue. Well, not
partnership behind Ha Noi is finally quite. It’s 100 months
Asialife breaks down launched with a since Word Ho Chi
and Nick Ross goes party in barefoot at Minh City was first
off to start a new Softwater in Hanoi. launched. Add in
publication with two All guests had to the 44 issues of Word
other partners — the take off their shoes Ha Noi and it’s a
original Vietnamese before entering — squared dozen.
partner, Duong Vy the bash was on a
Bao, and the sales lawn in a beautiful
manager of Asialife, setting by the Red

Tran Huynh The Vu. River in Hanoi.
OM
.C
AM
TN
IE
DV

OR
W

What You Say
Some of you like us, some
Mark Harris of you don’t, some of you
UK Trang Bui
Lives in Hanoi think there is stuff we can Vietnam
Lives in Ho Chi Minh City
I think The Word is a stonewall of improve upon. So we
Hanoi. It provides an accessible
platform for young journalists and
decided to hit the streets I read Word Vietnam to get information
about events, restaurants and
photographers to get involved in and get your comments destinations. I really like articles about
journalism and to showcase what Vietnamese people and the country.
they can do. I always find it quite As a Vietnamese, I find it interesting
interesting, obviously after years it when I see my country and its people
must be quite hard to find new things discovered under completely new
to write about, but I think you do, I angles. Sometimes, I am surprised as
think the way that you engage with Chris Jones I have been living and working in Ho
the community to make the content is Australia Chi Minh City for a long time, but
really admirable. It’s still relevant and Lives in Ho Chi Minh City haven’t heard of some streets or places.
it’s still an awesome read. Thanks Word Vietnam for such helpful
To understand Vietnamese people one information.
only has to understand what I call The
Six Priorities. They give a very clear
insight into the people and culture of
Vietnam. They are 1) Family first 2) Self
Daniele Moretti 3) Close friends 4) Other Vietnamese
Italy 5) Country 6) Foreigners. Once you Eva
Lives in Ho Chi Minh City understand these six priorities, Netherlands
everything about Vietnam and its Lives in Hanoi
I have been a big fan of Word Vietnam people falls into place and becomes
since I got to Vietnam eight years ago. crystal clear. As a foreigner you have It has a lot of interesting articles and
It’s my source of life, my way into the fewer expectations and therefore suffer the photographs are really nice. I think
expat lifestyle, and it gives me a bit of a fewer disappointments. Alternatively, if you look at the front page, it’s very
gateway in terms of what’s happening you can short circuit this whole professional, it’s glossy. I find it a
in Vietnam. I still read it now. The information gathering process by little bit confusing when you see the
content is very useful and informative. imbibing Word magazine. It’s the way magazine what it is going to be about,
I will always be a fan. to go. so I am not sure before opening what
will be in it. And there are a lot of
advertisements in the beginning which
I understand. It looks good, interesting.
Lorenz
Tu Ngoc Germany
Vietnam Lives in Hanoi
Lives in Hanoi Brett
It’s fantastic, especially as it’s for USA
I am very impressed with the visuals free. It has lots of content, really good Lives in Hanoi
of the magazine. I especially love the design and there aren’t advertisement
photography on every page. I am very impressed, It’s a wonderful, eclectic, happening
how is it possible to do such a magazine.
magazine without asking for money.
Normally city magazines have less
content and more ads.
Agnes Jason Elizabeth Homfray
France USA Australia
Lives in Hanoi Lives in Hanoi Lives in Ho Chi Minh City
I like it. Like Eva it’s not really clear I love it, I love that there’s a When I first arrived here many years
what it is gonna be about, but when publication that is targeted right at the ago there were no expat forums or
you browse the pages it’s interesting expat population. It helps us. I think it Facebook pages dedicated to helping
information, really aimed at expats. enriches our experiences of Hanoi and you find your way in this sometimes
I like that you mention the city (on Ho Chi Minh City by telling us all the hard-to-manoeuvre city. Word was a
top of articles). So I just don’t bother amazing things that are going on here. Godsend, with information to help
reading the Ho Chi Minh City articles. with just about everything. After
Pictures are nice. Great job it looks very tracking down those hard to find
professional. items I would then head to one the
restaurants recommended and read up
on upcoming events, look into the lives
Kim of other Saigoneers and plan my next
Vietnam adventure. These days I just like grab a
Lives in Mui Ne copy to see what everyone is up to and
Mark Seymour what’s new around town.
Australia I used to live in Ho Chi Minh City and
Lives in Ho Chi Minh City did a lot of advertising with the Word
in the past. Now I’m living in Mui
Honestly, I’ve tried to read it every Ne. I have been out of Ho Chi Minh
month, and most months I do. A lot of City about three years. I don’t have
information. I normally look at what’s much to do with the Word anymore. Marion Vigot
happening around town. That’s my But before I thought it was good, that France
favourite. I pick up some events, a was the reason why I used to advertise Lives in Ho Chi Minh City
few new restaurants. In general, it’s with Word. We owned Juice, Pacharan,
just knowledge for me. There are a lot Living and Giving, quite a few places. Word is a great source of information.
lovely articles. I still read, though. A The content is well-balanced and
good read! unique. Every issue focuses on
a different theme and their team
is always finding interesting and
fun things to tell us about. More
Ron Davis importantly Word is in English and it’s
Australia one of the rare magazines that I can
Lives in Ho Chi Minh City actually read in Vietnam, with updated
CK information. Maybe more beauty
Vietnam Good magazine. I think it needs to related content would make it better!
Lives in Hanoi listen to what foreigners are going to
say and what’s happening here. When
I think it’s great. There’s a lot of you talk about the culture and food,
information and that would be the it’s excellent. But I also think politically
exact thing that I would look at to find that you have to be careful. I think
a place to hang out, or to learn about maybe you could approach a little bit
cities in Vietnam — Hanoi and Ho Chi more of it.
Minh City in particular.

Inbox
We’ve got eight years worth of your emails
and comments online. Some are good, January 2010
some are bad and some are downright (Once a Foreigner, Always a Foreigner, December
2009)
bizarre. Here’s a selection.
Nick (Nick Ross is the author of the article),
you couldn’t be more PC if you tried.
Your article was complete rubbish. The
main problem is not foreigners, but the
Vietnamese people themselves. They have
absolutely no interest in allowing foreigners
to integrate into their society. I have been
in Vietnam for a very long time, can speak
Vietnamese and am married to a Vietnamese.
May I suggest you take an elementary course
in Vietnamese culture, read a book, or more
importantly, be honest!
business business
April 2010 “A lot of people

(A Capital Affair, Mar. 2010) know how to run
restaurants, and a lot
of people know how
to run a business,
You mention that but that’s irrelevant
if you don’t have the
you should never Vietnamese side of
the business tied up.”
speak Vietnamese
as a foreigner when
doing business or
you will be treated
more harshly. What
complete rubbish! If
more people learnt A Capital Know your Market
HANOI IS A LAND OF OPPORTUNITY, “Even when I was at my darkest hour,” he brand Punto Italia, agrees. Up and running 1) Know your business backwards. Don’t
but doing business in the capital is far from recalls, “I still dug in because I wasn’t going to in 2008, his venture is still in its early days With any business, knowing who your come in as a novice. You need to know what
simple. Many companies see a niche and be beaten. It was very, very difficult.” and he finds that doing business in the customers are and fitting your product to you are doing.
to speak “business
go up north, but finding it and filling it For Jacko, though, his choice of starting the capital “is a learning process that will
Affair
their needs is an important component in
successfully is far from straightforward. So restaurant in Hanoi rather than Saigon was never end”. For him, however, especially making things work. Hanoians are vastly 2) Make sure you have good Vietnamese
much so, that many have given up. The gaps purely down to the person he would be able in Hanoi, planning in advance is vital as is different from their counterparts down partners, colleagues and people to work with
in the market are there, but making it work to partner with. And to this day, he believes having good connections. “Knowing people south. you.
Vietnamese”, there It’s usually Saigon that

well is a challenge.
And yet, there are others who have
managed to make it a success. Look at the
this is the key.
“Although we realised that Saigon was a
much bigger market, we thought it was much
is important,” he says. He also cites having
good staff as being key.
“I now have good people working with
“The people in Hanoi are very discerning,”
explains Jacko. “They are loyal people. Once
they like your outlet, they will keep coming
3) If you’re a foreigner, when you’re
doing business, don’t try to do business in
would be less stories

Highlands Coffees, KFCs and Al Fresco’s more preferable to have a Vietnamese partner me who are Vietnamese,” he explains. “They to your outlet as long as you treat them fairly Vietnamese. For social situations, Vietnamese
is touted as the place to groups of this world. Then there are

manufacturers like Canon and Honda, all
who we could trust, than to have a market
share,” he explains. “A hundred percent of
help in many situations.”
Matt Law of Le Pub has the same
and with respect.”
At the same time, as anyone who has
is perfect, but for business, avoid going local.
The moment you start using Vietnamese you
do business in Vietnam. who seem to do good business in Hanoi. nothing is still nothing. So, we felt we would experience. With a bar in Ho Chi Minh City, had experience doing business in the north will be judged more harshly.
of people being But Hanoi offers lots

The big wine companies do a good trade,
particularly in premium Bordeaux wines,
while a whole host of other enterprises, both
go with where the strength was. A lot of people
know how to run restaurants, and a lot of
people know how to run a business, but that’s
the original Le Pub on Hang Be in Hanoi and
a third version set to open in West Lake this
month, it is not just your business partner
will testify, Hanoians can sometimes be
tough to deal with and are occasionally
self-important. Also, as Jacko points out,
4) Show people that you like them. Don’t
just pretend. You really need to like the people
of opportunities as
ripped off.
local and from overseas, have managed to irrelevant if you don’t have the Vietnamese that matters, but also your staff. Matt counts “compared to Saigon, people in Hanoi are you work with.
set up shop there. So, what is the secret? side of the business tied up. So, if you don’t himself lucky. much tighter, much more careful with their
yet untouched by Partners and Perseverence
have the connections with the government,
with the taxation department and so on, if
“Find someone you trust to be your
partner,” he explains, “and trust them
money.”
He cites the scenario of the various discount
5) Never lower your standards, no
matter what situation you’re in. If you’re a
entrepreneurs. Just don’t For Craig “Jacko” Jackson of the Al Fresco’s

group, the secret is a mixture of perseverance
you can’t sort all that out, then there’s no point
doing business here.”
with your life. Don’t just wander into town
and find the first bloke you meet. It’s got
cards issued by his restaurants. In Saigon,
people won’t really bother with them so much,
foreigner, then stick to what you know. If
you’re Vietnamese, then remain principled,
expect it to be easy. and your choice of business partner. With his

first restaurant, Al Fresco’s, open in Hanoi
He adds: “If you have a fair-minded
partner and you’re fair-minded with what
to be someone you trust. Also, employ
people you’ve learnt to be close with and
but in Hanoi, “even though people have got
lots of money”, almost all the customers use a
no matter how much it may cost you in the
short term.
Words and photos by since 1995, and now with 22 outlets and 850
staff, in the early days he had his fair share
you give them for their workload, then they’re
happy and you’re happy and it makes a big
be prepared to spend the first two or three
years watching every single thing they do.”
discount card. “It’s a different mentality”.
This is far from the perfect answer to
Nick Ross. of difficulties. From staffing problems to an

expat community of the time who felt he
difference. Don’t try to keep everything for
yourself.”
He adds: “You often go into bars where
there is a foreigner shouting at the end of
Some Tips
There are a whole host of things that you
how you can take advantage of the business
opportunities available in Hanoi, but
would fail like so many others before him, bar, screaming at staff. It just doesn’t work. need to learn if you want to do business in hopefully, if you’re taking the plunge or are
in the mid 1990s he “could have given up The Staff Your staff have to like you in order to respect Hanoi, but talking to people in the capital, the going to move up north, this will be helpful.
many times over”. Giorgio Vergano, the face of the Italian coffee you and do good work for you.” following points seem to be key: For this writer it certainly is.
48 | The Word March 2010 March 2010 The Word | 49
December 2010
Hold on a sec!
Is it just me or does The Word have the best

looking staff in Saigon? Without naming
names I’ve had the pleasure of running into
several of the guys and girls that work for
the publication on many a drunken night out
and can categorically say that I quite fancy
them all! Are any of you single?!

April 2011
Damaged Goods
The Prelude
W
hile interviewing the western women for assuming we can make miracles in
Miss Plevin, February 2011
Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực
18 eligible bachelors
and bachelorettes for
the former — the truth holds that
Vietnamese women are unfairly
this month’s cover story, but
hopefully we can find a way to
I recently had this month’s cover story, one
charming bachelor turned the
adorable and a lot of expats are
somewhat damaged goods.
match off some singles. But we
need you to give us your help —
the misfortune of CITY

S I N G L E S
question around. “Well, Julia,
he says, “what do you think is
difficult about the dating scene in
However, I’ve come to realise
there is something deeper.
A lot of us who have decided
simply send an SMS to 01696
809735 with the voting code of
your favourite bachelor and
coming across your Hanoi?”
I was rendered momentarily
to make Hanoi a home away from
home, for the short term or the
favourite bachelorette. When
we have counted up your votes
editorial piece in the speechless. Chuck Klosterman
writes about being a journalist on
long run, wanted to experience
something outside of the homes
we will choose two winning
couples to go on dates in two of
February issue of the other side of the questions.
Here I had been prying into the
and the lives we grew up in.
We’re a tough bunch to please —
the city’s best restaurants.
Until then, we wish you a
the word magazine hearts and souls of those looking always seeking something new, Happy Tet and Happy Valentine’s
.com
for love, or at least a date, in fresh, and adventurous — and Day. May you be surrounded
oi
lu an
City
Chi P dh
Sec M s
or
tio inh
Hanoi and I had no succinct not willing to settle for anything, with people who love you and
.w
(The Prelude, February

w
Nhà Xuất Bản Lao Động

w
w
Ho
answer myself. But now I’ve let alone settle down. And when can keep you warm this winter.
Front Cover figured it out. life is so transient and something And if you want to share what
2011) in which Design by DH Advertising Outside of the tired complaints
— language and cultural barriers,
better always seems to be waiting
down the line, unless it’s love at
you love — or hate — about The
Word, we’ll always embrace you
Photo by Aaron Joel Santos
you referred to “a the community is too small, most
western men prefer Vietnamese
first sight it’s hard to pin down
that perfect soulmate.
with open inboxes. Just email
julia@wordhanoi.com or ian@
We’re not pretending that wordhanoi.com.
lot” of expats as
women, some western men resent
being “somewhat June 2012

damaged goods”. (Is Saigon for Hipsters? April, 2012)
Damaged goods.
What a charming
Inbox SURPRISINGLY PROFESSIONAL EVERYONE LOVES CULTURE
“A hipster is a blasé semi-intellectual below
DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU I must say that The Word is surprisingly I've been pretty impressed with the articles
turn of phrase you WOULD LIKE TO AIR?
IF SO, PLEASE EMAIL JULIA AT
professional and refreshingly
sophisticated for an English language city
I've read and overall layout and product.
Not that I'm any kind of expert on what it
the age of 40.” Thanks for writing another
Americans have. JULIA@WORDHANOI.COM publication. Hanoi's expat population is
not huge and the publication probably
takes to put out such a publication, but I
just know as a reader, it comes across very
condescending article on a topic that has
MARKET GUIDE
Only someone has few resources and does not generate
much revenue. Still, look at the striking
polished and well done. And as someone
who does have some experience in Hanoi been written to death over the last 10 years.
That market issue (The Insider’s Guide photography and the incisive writing. from when I lived here in 2004, it's one of
who grew up in a to Markets, December 2010) was really
helpful and well done. I used the
Impressive. The staff that puts this out
makes tiny salaries and this effort comes
the first things I’ve read here that really
does a good job of not only capturing
As you say, “even you, yourself are most
cutthroat society that information to buy all of my Christmas
presents and my friends and family were
obviously from an inner-passion and
personal interest. Bravo. We are lucky
some of the local culture and experience,
but communicating it in such a way that
likely a hipster,” and given this vague list of
quickly divides its totally stoked. I especially liked learning
about leggings street (Gia Ngu). I can’t wait
to have The Word free of charge every
month and I hope that it continues to
an English-speaking audience would find
attractive — that is mostly what caught my traits that could apply to virtually anyone
entire population for another guide like this one. — Sasha evolve and improve. — B.A. attention, actually. — Karl T.
(liking culture and art, not spending a lot
into a few “winners” WHERE’S THE WORD? of money, sitting in a cafe, and adhering
and a vast underclass People are interested in reading The Word but they have trouble finding it. If you were to offer a delivery service you might alleviate
the issue of people taking copies from cafes and restaurants. I happened to see that The Word stand in Joma on To Ngoc Van was empty.
to current fashion trends), either everyone
of “losers” would I'd bet if you contacted some of the embassies and communications directors at international schools to see if they could pass along a
sign up, you'd get a lot of people interested for to the door subscription — H.B
belongs to this detestable social movement,
have the nerve to Your publication is very friendly, updated, with sharp articles so I don't know why I see it so rarely. Also, I wonder if you have the
Word in Ho Chi Minh City or other cities in Vietnam? I wish you a happy and successful year in 2011! Best regards, Nghiem Thuy Ha, or the label “hipster” doesn’t really have any
use such a vile and Product Manager — Threeland Travel
meaning.
hateful descriptive of DEAR MS H.B AND MS HA,
the very people your Thanks for your kind words and wishes. We do distribute around the whole city to a wide variety of distribution outlets – anything from medical centres
to international schools, embassies, businesses, travel agencies, cafes, bars and restaurants. In coffee shops and restaurants, people tend to take them,
publication claims to which is fine. However, we do need to keep some in the outlets around town for other people to read. Please see this month's house advert - here we have
outlined our plan to do a to-the-door delivery service to individuals as well as businesses. We hope this means more will get left lying around the city.
cater to. And yes, we have The Word Ho Chi Minh City, which is actually a much bigger publication, and two years older. We shall send you the next issue.
To your credit you 6 | The Word February 2011

September 2012 The Word
do not refer to all (Confessions of an English Teacher, August 2012)
expats by that term- “somewhat” to be
only most of them. a cowardly attempt Well, this surely got
How kind of you. to soften a highly Confessions of an the town talking!
Am I to take it then offensive term. English Teacher The stories are
that you exclude Much like if I were hilarious as heck.
From scheduling DVD lessons to coincide with hangover blues,
to leaving 20 ungraded tests at the bar after last orders, here are
confessions straight from the horse’s mouth.
yourself and your to refer to you as Words by Stephanie Cantrell. Photo by Charles Barnes
As a teacher myself,
Dave, 29 pretended I hadn’t seen anything happen and
friends from such being somewhat an It’s not uncommon for people to fall asleep
during a listening test when the CD is playing
and the kids are all writing, but I somehow
managed to fall asleep midway through a class
let the drama unfold.
Gaz, 29
I have a lot of banter and jokes with the kids in
I’ve been known to
a categorization? ignoramus or you behave in such a way
feedback session while I was sitting at the front my classes. One kid came in wearing a black
of the room. The teaching assistant had to come badge one day and I drew attention to it and
and wake me up. Is it bad that none of my started teasing him about it. I sarcastically said,
students noticed? “Hey, nice badge.”
He replied, “Yes, Teacher. It’s to remember
Of course you do. were to refer to a Johnny, 23

I had a student who wouldn’t join in any of
the physical activities such as changing chairs
or racing games. I kept pushing her to stand up
my brother who just died.”
Jenny, 24
I’m sorry, but kids all look the same to me. I’m
before, but now I’m
The chosen ones. Vietnamese person reformed. English
and participate with the rest of the class until always calling them “You!” in class and have
the teaching assistant sidled up to me and told completely fabricated grades and comments
me the kid had a prosthetic leg. when the reports come through and there’s a
kid’s name you don’t know. Who doesn’t need to
Nadine, 27 improve on their accuracy and pronunciation?
One wonders how as being somewhat a I was trying to teach my class the word
‘contain.’ In true CELTA style, I broke the
syllables down to make the pronunciation
easier. It was only when I started drilling the
Rich, 24
I had a really young class and realised about
an hour into the lesson that one of the kids
teachers do get a bad
your kind survive gook. Do you see? It rap here but I gotta
individual sounds that I realised my mistake, had sh*t his pants. The assistant was out of
as 18 ten-year-olds stood chanting, “C***! C***! the room and I couldn’t face dealing with it,
C***!” so I ignored it and left him sitting in his own
sh*t for the next half of the lesson. Towards
Sophie, 22 the end of the class, I’d completely forgotten
being forced to rub does not matter what say sometimes we

A lot of the kids are really small so you have to what’d happened and started playing a game
be careful where you put your feet. I made my of ‘change chairs.’ Realisation dawned on me as
youngest class gather around me for story time he waddled out of his seat and the unpleasant
and accidentally kicked one in the head. If you smell in the room intensified.
shoulders with such you surround such deserve it. Also, it

laugh it off, they’re fine.
Katherine, 22
Emma, 22 I’d had really bad food poisoning the night
My problem is pronouncing Vietnamese before class and couldn’t stop farting. To avoid
names. I walked into my teenage class one day embarrassment, I kept sidling up to the kid no
a desperate rabble on terms with. They doesn’t mean all of us

and said, “Has anyone seen little Vu?” The one liked and farting next to him before moving
intonation I used meant that I was actually away. The whole class was convinced it was him.
saying ‘little boobs.’ The 15-year-old boys in the
class loved it. Anna, 25
a daily basis. simply should not are like that, like in

One of my students finished her test early.
Andrew, 25 So to stall time I told her to check it. She
A junior kid kept [irritating me] in the lesson misunderstood me and fled the room, thinking
and wouldn’t listen to me or do as he was told. she’d got every question wrong. I finally
Just before break time a bigger kid pushed him tracked her down in the ladies toilets, but when
I also find your be used in the first any profession, there

over and he really hurt his leg. He looked at me I tried to approach her, she turned the bum hose
from the floor to see what I would do but I just on me to keep me away.
use of the word place. 28 | Word August 2012 August 2012 Word | 29
are good and bad.

LEISURE
October 2012
Fluff ‘n Puff
I like what you’re trying to do at Word, but

you publish too many puff articles. Is that
really necessary? You should try being more
independent.
I
CYCLING FOR CHARITY t started as a joke, with a rider from last
year’s H2H Charity Ride describing
H2H: Measuring
her thighs transitioning from cross-
country class to slappy, fat things. “I’d
walk into a room and you’d just hear them
making this thick sound,” Emma said / I May 2013
paraphrased. “They blew up to twice their
(Lifestyles, April 2013)
the Gains
size with six hours of cycling a day, then
just turned to pudding.”
Inspired by easy metaphors, Word decided
to do some before-and-after measures of this
year’s riders, with a highly unscientific yet
hilarious method.
What a load of tosh. Except for the article
Cycling from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City is more
Afterwards we met up with trip leader —
and leading thigh-girth burner, to the tune on the bia hoi lady and the piece about BiBi
than a physical journey, but eventually the bodies of 3cm — Andrea Towne, to talk about the
2,000km H2H covered between Hanoi and — it’s good to see what he’s doing now — I
of the 19 riders on this year’s H2H Charity Ride began Ho Chi Minh City, and the emotional truths
behind their legs of steel. And then the story thought that was a thoroughly unappealing
to tell their stories, in ways both humorous and tragic. got less silly, and we got into that too.
Words by Ed Weinberg. Photos by David Harris Who’s the Firmest?

and badly written cover story. Do you have
and Francis Xavier
“I hate to say — Paul [Cordier],” Andrea
says. “But Paul’s really in shape for all of this
any jobs available? I could come and help
stuff. Danny Walsh had really good calves.
you out with your writing.
102 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam.com
August 2015
July 2014 (Now You Can Buy, July 2015)
Hanoi to HCMC Bike Ride
Good article. But there was one thing you
We are writing Word Vietnam (page missed. You can buy a property here, but
to you as six of 102). However, we you can’t sell a house if you have a mortgage
the 16 riders who are disappointed on it. You have to own it outright.
completed the cycle with the portrayal What a load of xxxx. You really think
from Hanoi to Ho of the ride and we anyone in their right mind is going to buy a
Chi Minh City in feel we have been house here? You can’t even get a visa these
April of this year. misrepresented. It days.
First we would didn’t show what 50 year leases don’t make sense. Buy
like to thank you we’d accomplished, a house in Europe and you’re looking at
for your article in and for what a minimum of 70 years. Anything below
the June edition of amazing cause. becomes a problem.

November 2015
The Front Cover, October 2015
I just LOVE the Great cover this Wow! A really Best cover you’ve
picture on the cover. month. I hope you’re moving cover. Love done this year.
It reminds me why I going to give a copy it!
love this country: it’s of the magazine to
all about emotions. that woman.
So moving…

TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS và NICK ROSS
ON THE
STREETS
OM
.C
AM
TN
IE
DV

OR
W

Our Top Articles
January 2014 September 2009
Article with the most online hits on our website Second most online hits on wordvietnam.com
Mr. McDonald’s Relativists vs Colonialists

Is it the inexorable path of progress or is it a sign By Tim Russell
simply of changing times? Nick Ross speaks to
Henry Nguyen, the man behind McDonald’s in
Vietnam. Photo by Kyle Phanroy I n my experience there are three types of
expat in Vietnam. Those who – let’s call
them relativists – think the whole country
I f last year’s market entry of Starbucks

can be viewed as a prototype, then by
the time you read this piece there will
is wonderful and the people lovable and
honest, and that even the bad things can’t
be criticised as it’s their culture and we
have been extraordinary queues outside have no right to find fault with it.
McDonald’s. Using the Drive-Thru model On the other extreme, we have the
to enter the Vietnamese market, images colonialists – those who think the country is
of motorbike logjams trailing back down a festering rat’s nest of dirt, corruption and
Saigon’s Dien Bien Phu come to mind. greed, run by people who haven’t got a clue
The arrival of this fast food monolith, this what they’re doing, and who need a good
symbol of American culture, has been a long dose of foreign management to sort them
time in the making. For many, too long. out.
Says Henry Nguyen, the man charged Then in the middle you have a third
with bringing McDonald’s to Vietnam, “A lot group, of which I like to think myself a
of my friends here and a lot of young people member, that kind of flits between these two
I meet, ask me, ‘Why hasn’t McDonald’s extremes. Obviously we like living here,
come earlier, doesn’t McDonald’s think or we wouldn’t stay, and there are days
Vietnam is a promising market?’ There is a when Vietnam feels like the best place in the
lot of economic self-esteem embedded in the world; but we aren’t blind to its faults and
presence of McDonald’s.” we try our best to offer advice as to how
Full Article: http://wordvietnam.com/ these faults could be rectified.
food-drink/features/mr-mcdonald-s To read the full article click on http://
wordvietnam.com/opinion/the-perspectives/
relativists-vs-colonialists

Over the past 100 issues we’ve published good articles, bad articles and some pieces
that are just, well, controversial. Here is a selection of writing from Word journos past
and present. The full versions can be found online at wordvietnam.com
November 2013 October 2015

Most read food article on wordvietnam.com One of the most commented upon pieces on
Facebook
The Best Street Food of Vietnam: The
North 25 Things Vietnamese Don’t
V ietnam has well over 100 street food

dishes, most of them dreamt up
locally, with a smattering coming from
Understand about Westerners
Cultural faux pas. Contrasting world views.
Preconceived ideas. Here are all those things
overseas. But which of these dishes are that people in Vietnam don’t understand about
quintessentially Vietnamese? And which Westerners. Words by Kieran Crowe
dishes are the true originals?
To try and get at what we believe is the
core of Vietnamese street food, we have
put together a selection of dishes found in
Irecently reached out to my Vietnamese
friends and colleagues to ask them what
things Westerners do which they find
this country. There are variations of course amusing or odd! Any Westerners reading
— both on a dish itself and on the way it is this, prepare your ego for a bruising.
served up in different regions — and then of Vietnamese people, get ready for answers
course, there is pho, which in terms of style to all those questions you had about
and taste has developed into a beast all of its Western people but were too shy to ask.
own. That a restaurant chain in the UK even
had the gall to try and trademark the name 1) Why won’t you tell me your age?
of Vietnam’s best known dish, says much for Because when we do, you tell us “you look
how Vietnam’s street food is being received so old!” which drives us straight to the
around the globe. It’s popular. anti-aging moisturizer shelf in the nearest
So, time to get that saliva running. Maximark.
To read the full piece, click on
http://wordvietnam.com/food-drink/ 2) Why do you eat cheese and wine for
features/a-street-food-tour-of-vietnam-the-north dessert?
What better way to satisfy your sweet tooth
than indulging in some… pungent blue
cheese? Alright, maybe this one is a bit
weird.
3) Why are Western guys into tanned girls?

Vietnamese girls have told me they are
attracted to tanned guys, regardless of
nationality, because they look healthier than
pale guys (I guess that’s why Vietnamese
girls aren’t exactly beating down my door).
However, they don’t
understand why
Western guys are
attracted to tanned
girls.
Click on http://
wordvietnam.com/people-
culture/the-stories/25-
things-vietnamese-don-
t-understand-about-
westerners for the full
article

December 2012 December 2014
Our most popular travel article online This piece caused a storm on Facebook. A certain
Facebook group admin was not impressed
A Journey to the Land of Whispers
Seeking a unique travel experience, after much The World of Expat Facebook Groups
deliberation Chrystian Cohen took the train Whether its snakepits of despair you’re looking
into Pyongyang to visit North Korea for or that small-town feeling you’ve been
missing, the expat groups of Facebook supply that
N orth Korea feels frozen in time. It lies

somewhere between a 1930s Soviet
Union and a futuristic vision of society, as
little touch of connection that we all occasionally
need. Words by Niko Savvas. Illustrations by
Vu ha Kim Vy
imagined back in the 1970s.
When asked about my experience it’s
hard to find a relevant reference point, as
the Hermit Kingdom, which the country has
C riticising other people’s use of
Facebook is terribly passé, like saying
you enjoy The Beatles or hate racism. For
come to be known as, is unlike any place I all of its faults (and there are many), this
have ever been, seen or experienced. Visiting social media superpower has become an
the northern section of the Korean peninsula indispensable part of life for billions of
has been more than a trip — it’s been a people around the world.
plunge into a whole other reality, which Personal opinions aside, it’s hard to argue
outsiders were never really meant to see. I that Facebook doesn’t serve many useful
was one of the select few. purposes. From the Arab Spring to the
Read for the full piece by clicking Hong Kong protests, it has given a voice to
on http://wordvietnam.com/travel/ the voiceless and opened the world’s eyes
international/a-journey-to-the-land-of-whispers to injustices that once might have gone
unnoticed.
For expats in Vietnam, Facebook forums
can be an invaluable resource. Need an
English-speaking ophthalmologist? Ask
Facebook. Want to know if that oozing
wound on your foot is infected? Skip the
hospital; just share a picture and wait for the
crowd-sourced diagnoses to pour in.
In general my experience of Facebook
has been positive. Yet I can’t shake my
primordial loathing of these forums. If
you’ve spent a decent amount of time in
Vietnam, you probably have your own
horror stories of boorish and moronic
behavior online. Anecdotally it seems safe
to say that expat Facebook forums are the
refuge of the stupid and the mean-spirited. I
decided to investigate.
Full Article: http://
wordvietnam.com/people-
culture/the-stories/the-
world-of-expat-facebook-
groups

May 2015 May 2015
Another Niko Savvas special that got the tongues The piece online that got expats frothing at the
wagging and the comments a-flowing fingertips
Vietnamese Food Isn’t That Great Why You Probably Shouldn’t Bother
Lower your pitchforks and let Niko Savvas Learning Vietnamese
explain Unless you’re a lifer, Niko Savvas believes there
are much more useful things you could be doing
P ut on your Honesty Cape and place

yourself in the following scenario:
After you save the life of a Nigerian prince I f you’ve read Malcolm Gladwell’s book
Outliers, then you already know that it
with the timely provision of your US$7,500 takes roughly 10,000 hours to truly master
wire transfer, he invites you to his lavish a skill. As Gladwell himself probably
palace in Abuja for a celebratory feast. The says, there are exceptions to this rule —
prince decrees that every notable dish from mathematical savants, child prodigies and
every global cuisine will be provided for so on.
your dining pleasure, as part of the world’s In light of Ericcson’s findings, consider
largest-ever buffet table. the following numbers:
There is a catch, however, as there always 500 hours — 20.8 days — 0.06 years
is with Nigerian princes: you can only 10,000 hours — 416.6 days – 1.14 years
have one plate. So, with all of the world’s 25,000 hours — 1,041.7 days — 2.85 years
delicacies at your fingertips, how much Let’s pretend that you could master
plate-space would you devote to Vietnamese Vietnamese in a mere 500 hours (you cunning
cuisine? linguist, you). All you’d need to do is lock
Your correspondent’s answer: zero yourself in a dank, windowless room for three
percent. solid weeks with your Pimsleur tapes, several
Full Article: http://wordvietnam. college-ruled notebooks, and a towering pile
com/people-culture/the-big-story/ of Bolivian nose sugar. After a fortnight and
vietnamese-food-isn-t-that-great a half, you’d emerge speaking fluent Tieng
Viet, switching seamlessly between Hanoi and
Saigon accents. Learning Vietnamese would
seem to be an excellent time investment.
Now compare this hypothetical scenario
to your real-life experience, in which the
hotpot waitress glares at you dumbly
while you beg to know the location of the
restroom. Chances are good that you’re not a
Vietnamese-pronunciation wunderkind.
Full Article: http://wordvietnam.
com/people-culture/the-big-story/
vietnamese-food-isn-t-that-great
The final say
L
THE FINAL SAY NATIONAL earning Vietnamese is not worth your to your real-life experience, in which the literary, cinematic or musical language broader access to global culture) justify this
time. hotpot waitress glares at you dumbly either. Compared with Asian pop culture sacrifice of resources.
Why You
If you’ve read Malcolm Gladwell’s while you beg to know the location of the trendsetters like Japan and South Korea, Unless you’re planning to spend a very
book Outliers (or if you’ve heard restroom. Chances are good that you’re not Vietnamese artists produce little of note. long time in Vietnam, the opportunity
somebody refer to it during a cocktail party, a Vietnamese-pronunciation wunderkind. There are no Vietnamese equals to Haruki cost of studying Vietnamese is much less
which is more likely), then you already Murakami or Bong Joon-Ho. The best- favourable. You’re giving up too many of
Probably
know that it takes roughly 10,000 hours to A Language Limited in Range and produced TV programmes are knockoffs of your available non-working/sleeping/
truly master a skill. As Gladwell himself Function western shows like MasterChef or Vietnam’s eating hours for a skill that loses nearly all
probably says*, there are exceptions to You’re not alone. Got Talent. No one is breathlessly predicting its value the moment you leave the country.
this rule — mathematical savants, child Vietnamese is a Category IV language the rise of V-Pop. To illustrate, assume that Gladwell is bad
prodigies and so on. with “significant linguistic and/or cultural at maths and that you can become fluent in
Shouldn’t
But these people are rare. Most six- differences from English”, according to the Opportunity Cost Vietnamese with 1,000 hours of practice.
year-olds are more likely to swallow a U.S. Foreign Service Institute (FSI). The But if a person is going to live in Vietnam, If you studied seven days a week for
chess piece than use it as part of a brilliant FSI designates Vietnamese as one of the shouldn’t he or she learn the language? three hours a day, it would take you about
Steinitz Defense. And the “10,000 hours” most difficult Category IV languages to Isn’t it a bit rude and presumptuous to 333 days to hit your target. This isn’t
Bother
figure itself is suspiciously precise. Anders learn, along with tongues such as Finnish, assume that you can move to a foreign “three hours of half-hearted listening to
Ericcson, the psychologist whose work Estonian and Magyar. Learning Vietnamese country and expect the local people to podcasts or watching subtitled movies”.
Outliers is based on, later found that it may is considerably more challenging than speak your language? This is “three hours of gulag work camp,
take anywhere from 500 to 25,000 hours to trying to dust off your high school Spanish. The quick answer: no. 100 percent vein-popping mental self-
earn your metaphorical Expert badge. Which, if you think about it, would A more elaborate explanation: no, torture with expensive tutors and learning
Learning
In light of Ericcson’s findings, consider probably be a much better use of your because that’s the entire point of having materials”. After nearly a year of doing this
the following numbers: time anyway — Vietnamese is more or less an international language. In the days of every day, you’d be able to bargain more
500 hours — 20.8 days — 0.06 years useless outside of Vietnam. The Vietnamese the Umayyad Caliphate, a traveller could effectively for mangos.
10,000 hours — 416.6 days – 1.14 years Consulate General in Houston estimated wander from modern-day Portugal down More realistically, though, it would take
25,000 hours — 1,041.7 days — 2.85 years the total number of overseas Vietnamese to North Africa, then roam all the way to you several years to reach this point.
Vietnamese
Let’s pretend that you could master at around four million in 2014. The densest India, so long as he had a decent grasp of Or you could spend a couple of hours
Vietnamese in a mere 500 hours (you concentration of people with Vietnamese Arabic. Even in the 700s, people recognised learning Vietnamese numbers and
cunning linguist, you). All you’d need to do ancestry outside of Vietnam is found in the the value of a bridge language. interesting things to yell at taxi drivers,
is lock yourself in a dank, windowless room United States, where they constitute 0.006 Lingua francas exist because they are then devote yourself to becoming a better
for three solid weeks with your Pimsleur percent of the population. efficient — by mastering one language, you painter or tuba player or dessert chef — to
tapes, several college-ruled notebooks, In an international context, speaking can suddenly communicate with people doing something that might enrich the
Unless you’re a lifer, Niko Savvas believes there and a towering pile of Bolivian nose sugar.
After a fortnight and a half, you’d emerge
Vietnamese isn’t going to help you travel.
It isn’t going to help you work, either —
from many places. Native English speakers
have it easy. They’re inherently adept at the
world, rather than assuage your societally
conditioned guilt. Then you could take a
are much more useful things you could be doing speaking fluent Tieng Viet, switching the number of jobs requiring proficiency world’s most versatile language. moment to consider where you’d like to
seamlessly between Hanoi and Saigon in Vietnamese is roughly equivalent to the Non-native speakers have to give up a lot watch the next World Cup.
accents. Learning Vietnamese would seem number of jobs that require applicants to to achieve this proficiency: time, energy and If your answer isn’t “the same techno-
to be an excellent time investment. have excellent fire-swallowing skills. money. But the tangible benefits of learning blaring coffee shop I’m in now”, then you
Now compare this hypothetical scenario Vietnamese is not a particularly rich English (higher wages, easier travel, and don’t need much Vietnamese.
*Your correspondent hasn’t read the book, either.
192 | Word May 2015 | wordvietnam.com wordvietnam.com | May 2015 Word | 193

November 2015 January 2016
One of our recent online pieces that went viral The one that drew out all those Americans
without a sense of humo(u)r
Visa Privilege
If you’re Vietnamese, getting a visa to travel to 10 Questions Americans Ask About
the West is hard. Getting a visa to the US is even Vietnam
harder. Owen Salisbury helped a friend who Jesse Meadows has gone home to the US for
went through the visa application experience and a vacation. Here are what friends, family and
was turned down acquaintances are asking about her adopted home
I was 30 the first time I had to apply for

a visa. The concept seemed vaguely
offensive; why on Earth did I need to ask
A s I write this, I am home for the
holidays in Florida, America’s land
of golf courses and retirees. It’s the first
anyone’s permission to travel? I’d been to time I’ve been home to see my family and
25 countries on three continents, spending friends since I left over a year ago, and
money, following laws. Everywhere, visas they understandably have questions. “My
meant showing up like an unexpected little world traveller!” they say, patting
guest, enduring border control’s bored me on the head. “What are you doing in
scrutiny, and hearing the stamp thwack in Thailand?!”
my passport. Some questions are smarter than others.
I was privileged. I do my best to contain my eye-rolling and
Extremely so; nor was I to realise how attempt to patiently explain the realities of
much until I helped my friend Tram apply my life in Hanoi, a place that is hard for most
for a tourist visa to the United States so she Americans to imagine. And so, after a month
could meet her fiancé’s family. Not to move of answering the same clueless queries, I’ve
there; just to visit for a month. compiled my favourites.
Tram has been a friend for four years.
With her fiancé temporarily in the US, she Do you have electricity?
asked me to help prepare her tourist (B-1) You know, sometimes I get the feeling my
visa application. The challenges Vietnamese friends back home picture me living in a
people face when they wish to visit the so- bamboo hut in the middle of a rice field,
called First World stunned me. riding a buffalo to work and, I don’t know,
Full article: http://wordvietnam.com/opinion/ killing a chicken with my bare hands for
the-final-say/visa-privilege dinner.
Is it safe?
My uncle asked me this, right before delving
into a rant about ISIS. It’s ironic, coming
from a country like America, where school
shootings have become the norm, and my
dad shows off his gun collection at the
dining room table.
Do you tell people you’re Canadian?

Specific to the fact that I’m
American, this idea is rooted
in memories of a past that
Vietnam has collectively
moved on from.
Full article: http://
wordvietnam.com/opinion/the-
perspectives/10-questions-
americans-ask-about-vietnam

January 2016 October 2014
A piece that got a comment from a famous film Our most-read café review on wordvietnam.com
director
Toilet Kingdom
Film in Vietnam By Ed Weinberg
Beautiful scenery, technical expertise, a low-cost
economy. Jon Aspin attempts to ask why big
budget productions are the exception rather than
the rule in Vietnam.
D own a Binh Thanh back alley, the
writing was on the wall.
And so the scripture read: “Thy kingdom
come.” No wait, it read ‘Kingdom’ — but
T here’s no denying that Vietnam looks

stunning on film. Any cinematographer
or photographer worth their salt loves
was preceded by ‘Toilet’?
Yup, urine for some potty humour. That’s
par for the course at Toilet Kingdom, where
coming back to this country. Sweeping the one room in the coffee shop you usually
aerial shots of Halong Bay, drone footage don’t want to see has taken centre stage. You
of the Sapa Valley and even time-lapse sit on toilets with Angry Bird cushions, drink
photography of Saigon’s traffic. These are out of little potties and bathtubs on glass
just a few of the images that immediately tables over sinks with glitter and fake trees
come to mind, and that’s without inside. Little streamers with happy buzzing
mentioning the people. flies adorn the walls and ceilings. Bathroom
Traditionally though, filming in Vietnam mirrors with stray toothbrushes and bottles
has been difficult. While the country itself of shampoo are scattered throughout.
has been the subject of many a film, the Full Article: http://wordvietnam.
most famous of them have all been shot com/food-drink/coffee-cup/
elsewhere. coffee-cup-hcmc-toilet-kingdom
It was ‘too soon’ perhaps for the likes
of Apocalypse Now (1979) which was made
in the Philippines, Full Metal Jacket (1987)
and Platoon (1986); also the Philippines.
One notable exception is the Phillip Noyce
directed adaptation of Graham Greene’s
novel, The Quiet American, which most
booksellers will have a copy of.
Full Article: http://wordvietnam.com/
people-culture/the-big-story/film-in-vietnam
Film in
T
here’s no denying that Vietnam looks many a film, the most famous of them have all been shot
stunning on film. Any cinematographer or elsewhere.
photographer worth their salt loves coming It was ‘too soon’ perhaps for the likes of Apocalypse
back to this country. Sweeping aerial shots Now (1979) which was made in the Philippines,
of Halong Bay, drone footage of the Sapa Valley and Full Metal Jacket (1987) and Platoon (1986); also the
even time-lapse photography of Saigon’s traffic. Philippines. One notable exception is the Phillip Noyce
These are just a few of the images that immediately directed adaptation of Graham Greene’s novel, The Quiet
come to mind, and that’s without mentioning the American, which most booksellers will have a copy of.
people. The director himself said this about shooting in
Vietnam
When I was lucky enough to be part of a big Saigon, during a 2011 interview. “We thought there
Australian beer ad that shot last year in Hanoi and Sapa would be big challenges, but they disappeared. The
(see ‘I shot a big beer ad’, April 2015), I joined up with a Vietnamese government were very helpful in helping us
professional crew who’d literally travelled the world in to find locations, and getting people to co-operate with
search of the perfect visual landscape for their story. the production.”
This had included the snowy hinterlands of central Noyce expressed his surprise in terms of the level
Europe, the deserts of Dubai, the city of Prague and cage of technical expertise available to him, even back then
diving with Great White sharks in South Africa. Sean (the film was released in 2002), and heaped praise on
Izzard, a twenty-five year veteran and part of the highly his second unit director Dang Nhat Minh especially,
respected creative group The Pool Collective in Sydney, crediting him with the look of the climactic scenes of
was the stills photographer on the 21-day shoot. the movie, when the bomb goes off outside the old
“Vietnam was the highlight for me,” he said. Continental Hotel.
“Especially travelling up north into the mountains of “We didn’t realize how efficient Vietnamese film-
Sapa. It was quite amazing.” makers were, in every aspect of film making,” he said.
“Even in the downtime there were shots to be had.
Beautiful scenery, technical expertise, a low-cost economy. This amazing cloud would just come through the village Tick in the Ointment
at night-time, it was so ethereal and surreal, quite So, let’s see. Beautiful scenery. Tick. Technical expertise.
Jon Aspin attempts to ask why big budget productions spectacular.” Tick. A low-cost economy. Hmm, still a tick. Surely
Vietnam should be a veritable goldmine for big budget
are the exception rather than the rule in Vietnam. Blockbuster television and film production, with so many elements
Traditionally though, filming in Vietnam has been working in its favour. Right?
difficult. While the country itself has been the subject of Well, apparently not, and it’s the usual suspects
A scene from The Quiet American directed by Phillip Noyce Jeremy Clarkson rides through the streets of Vietnam in the Top Gear: Vietnam Special
wordvietnam.com | January 2016 Word | 67

Did You Know?
In preparing for our 100th issue spectacular, staff writer
Owen Salisbury assembled a list of Word-related trivia
that will leave you puzzled as to how he ever managed to
function in polite society
Did you know…

— Word was founded in April, 1988? It — Word has never knowingly employed a
was originally chief editor Nick Ross’ member of the Illuminati?
neo-modernist Basque poetry fanzine!
— Word was founded in April of 1871 by
— Word routinely hides at least one joke French explorer Pierre-Christian Bois-
image and one fake story per issue? Blois de Montchien, renowned for
There’s even a VND150,000 prize to bringing both polo and polio to the
the first astute reader who finds all 228 highlands of Laos? It was originally a
examples. Bonus to the reader who finds journal for recording the hallucinations
the issue we never actually printed! caused by his tertiary syphilis.
— Word editorial budgets have gone up by — Word loves monkeys? Our office monkey
at least 8% a year for the last eight years? Milo routinely contributes articles under
We salute their professionalism and a nom de plume!
rigour!
— Word was founded by time travellers in
— Word is on the VIP guest list at both space and the future?
Apocalypse Now? Because, why not?
— While compiling this list, Word staff
— The most common cause of wounding writer Owen Salisbury almost died of
and maiming for Word employees is anaphylactic shock, yet almost finished
duelling? … but that the most common the article nearly on time? Talk about
cause of death for Word employees dedication!
is classified
— Word was a popular write-in candidate
— Word used to employ a number of writers in the recent Presidential elections in the
who went on to fame and fortune? We Gambia? We garnered an amazing 781
count such literary lights as Marcel votes, or 3.3% of the total!
Proust, Choderlos de Laclos, Salman
Rushdie and that tool who wrote The — Word can steal your soul? Whatever you
Notebook among our alumni! do, don’t hold it up to a mirror and chant
“Blood Mary” three times while turning
— In his 14-year career with the Word, staff widdershins. We had enough trouble
editor Jon Aspin has never been late with with the zombies last time!
a story? Talk about dedication!
— Word invented Scrabble and jamon Iberico
— Word graphic designers actually create — on the same day?
all pictures pixel by pixel in PhotoShop?
We haven’t printed a genuine — Creative director, photographer and
photograph since 2006! head pontiff Mads Monsen won the

ArtPrize twice in the last four years
for his work on the Word — without
officially entering? Talk about dedication!
— Word can be used to tell the future?

Using a combination of Qabalah and
von Hausaufgabe’s Geometric Sieve,
future events are clearly spelled out in
our pages. Last year, we found detailed
predictions for 9/11, 7/7, and of course
for 6/6! Actually, we’re fairly scared
about that last one. We plan to be out of
the continent when it happens! You
should, too! Run, people! Run!
— Word was founded as part of a sealed

plea agreement in April of 1999? We’d
love to tell you more but the judge would
throw us back in prison and we can’t go
back there, man! We just can’t!
— Word has contingency stories written

to cover plague, alien invasion, and the
Canadian conquest of the USA?
— That one of these is the whole and

unvarnished truth? We dare you to find
it! Not counting this one, of course,
because that would be a dishonest and
petty trick.
This article is dedicated to the memory of

official Word historian and photo editor Kyle
“Krushpuss” Phanroy who left the country
earlier this year after a yodelling accident in
the Tyrolean Alps. You’ll be missed, you old
so-and-so
Seven Creative
Uses of Word
Yes, we’re more than just classroom fodder for
teaching English and something for wiping your
nose on. We promise! Here’s a little something
to get them juices flowing
C
reativity is a watchword here 3,4-dextrohydroctylpentahexafluronontium
at the Word, and we think you polymer paper shaves off each offending
salary-drones should be more molecule out with its famous atomically
creative, too. Arm yourself with sharp edges!
these tips and find new, exciting uses for Pro tip: Caesium is carcinogenic — but
all those back issues of Word we know don’t worry, the polymer will have stripped
you’re hoarding. your skin and muscle away long before
But be warned — this is the advanced list. any tumours can form, unless the ionizing
You won’t find simple collaging, origami or radiation gets you first. Use in a well-
ransom notes here. ventilated area, preferably in a different
Still here? Newbies scared off? Great! Let’s house.
get started.
Iron Rations
Sticks and Stones Starving? Trapped on a tropical island with
Given its density and resilience, thick nothing but back issues of Word? Not to
enough layers of paper can stop fists, knives worry! Individually woven from strands
and clubs. So the next time your gang is of baby vole skin, our 100% organic vellum
going to rumble with the Jets in the old pork is actually edible — and tastes great when
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Slip two to three issues under your shirt at presumably edible jungle flowers!
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proof!* lithium-based Lithion Metallic Ink, you
Pro tip: with enough duct tape, Word won’t even mind you’re trapped on a
can also be creatively applied to guard deserted island — hell, you might not even
your face. Be sure to apply at least three notice after a while.
issues to the top, back and sides, then roll
ones up to frame the face and protect the Brighten Up That Room A Little
nose. Tape liberally in place. Leave room Nothing brightens up a room like gorgeous
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bike helmets! And if you should meet an room is drab, try papering the walls with
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out looking good. here at Word… in there with you… staring
*Unless they have guns, of course, in which down at you, all night long!
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Out, Damned Spot! disrespect your colours? Never fear, Word is
Got tough stains to get out from where here — and soon to be there, wedged in El
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Special Thanks
Many, many people have made these
past 100 issues happen. Here are some
of them:
Brian Webb, Bailey Seybolt, Aaron

Joel Santos, Julia Plevin, Ian Paynton,
David Stout, Debbie Clare, Douglas
Pyper, Rose Arnold, Fabiola Buchele,
Kaitlin Rees, Hoa Le, Julie Vola,
Jesse Meadows, Francis Roux, Marc
Forster-Pert, Dominic Blewett, Chau
Giang, Elisabeth Rosen, David Harris,
David Mann, Suzie Meiklejohn, Peter
Stuckings, Thin Lei Win, Christine Van,
John Thornton, Vu Ha Kim Vy, Paolo
Not sure how to proceed? It’s easy! First, Pro tip: Don’t hesitate to personalize. Try Maling, Jim Abril, Duncan Forgan,
get convicted of a horrible, horrible crime replacing all the names in articles with the Sarah Johnson, Nguyen Tan Loc,
and sent up for life. Smuggle in your back name of the gift recipient, so they know it’s Quinn Ryan Mattingly, Huynh Hau,
issues of Word. Second, roll your copy of all about them. You can also glue your face Vu Minh Tri, Tran Huynh The Vu, Le
Word as tightly as possible into a cylinder, onto every photo, so you stare back out at Dang Phuong Trang, Rico Gonzalez,
securing it with contraband duct tape or them from every page, ensuring they know Linh Phanroy, Kyle Phanroy, Duong
dozens of rubber bands. Patiently grind exactly who got them this amazing gift! Thi Thanh Xuan, Ed Weinberg, Charlie
it against the concrete floor until you’ve Barnes, Khoa Tran, Galen Stolee, Brian
achieved a wickedly sharp point. Voila — Pay It Backwards or Forwards or Letwin, Nguyen Thuc Doan Hien,
instant death machine! Something James Allen, EJ Chung, Stephanie
All you have to do next is shank until the If you enjoy our stimulating, nutritious Cantrell, Mark Allan, Francis Xavier,
guards club you off, but watch out: El Ratel content month in and month out, but feel Alexandre Garel, Mads Monsen, Derek
is probably packing a copy of Word, too. vaguely guilty because you’re getting so Milroy, Tal Cohen, Yves Schiepek,
Pro tip: Not enough time to grind? No much joy and possibility free, then this is Karen Hewell, Niko Savvas, Owen
fear. Word can also be used to beat, smash the one for you. Salisbury, Jon Aspin, Duong Vy Bao
and suffocate. Slip a VND500,000 note between each and Nick Ross
page, seal it in an envelope, and drop
You Shouldn’t Have it off at Word offices to let us know just
For our readers who like to pinch pennies, how much you’ve loved all 100 issues of
show love and frugality by slipping old our Pulitzer and Nobel-prize winning
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Remember, you’re not only giving the love money, but we also love being loved.
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those old copies! one, which is very cool
Insider

INSIDER HANOI
Arsenic
and Old Lace
Hanoi has a problem with arsenic. Now it’s entered
the water system. Words and photos by Nick Ross
A
ron shows me an email. It doesn’t Or is the whole of the city affected by
make for good reading. contamination?
“My girlfriend and I have been We decided to find out for ourselves. With
living in Hanoi for six years,” goes a home testing kit in hand, Aron and I spent
the writer. “We are suffering from most of a day testing the water in Hanoi.
the symptoms of arsenic poisoning, so I’m
concerned it’s related to the water here. We Poisoned?
have been out of the country for the last In mid-January I came down with what
month and the symptoms have gone away.” I thought was food poisoning. Yet the
The Vietnam distributor of the German- sudden bout of nausea, diarrhoea and acute
made water filter brand, BWT, over the past headaches didn’t make sense. The night
year Aron has discovered that his experience before I’d eaten banh mi trung at a place in
is not unique. Recently he was called into the Old Quarter I’d frequented for over
a villa compound in the Long Bien area of a decade. The next morning I ate bun bo
Hanoi to test the water. The World Health nam bo at a West Lake eatery, also a regular
Organization (WHO) recommends a limit haunt. Neither place had ever given me food
of 0.01 mg/litre (10 parts per billion) of poisoning.
arsenic in drinking water. The results from Yet two days in and I was getting worse.
Aron’s test showed that during two different I was dehydrated, constantly tired and had
periods in February, the level of arsenic was odd bouts of dizziness. So I went to the
between 41 and 43 percent above the safe hospital, had a blood test and spent two
limit. Which suggests that this metalloid has hours on a drip. When the results came back
got into the city’s water system. I neither had a virus nor a bacterial infection.
The Red River Delta in northern Vietnam The doctors suggested that maybe I didn’t
as well as places as far flung as Chile, have food poisoning after all. As I started
Bangladesh, Mongolia, Taiwan and even researching this article, I found another
the western US are known to contain large possible source for my mysterious illness;
deposits of arsenic. Buried deep inside arsenic. It was uncanny.
the earth’s crust, the various forms of this The symptoms of arsenic poisoning start
metalloid are normally harmless, unless with headaches, confusion, severe diarrhoea
they manage to get into the water. Here and drowsiness, while acute levels of the
it seemed that this was exactly what had metalloid can lead to diarrhoea, vomiting,
happened. vomiting blood, blood in the urine, cramping
Yet was this an anomaly, a one off? muscles, hair loss, stomach pain

“Historically Hanoi has and convulsions. The final result is coma and
death.
people — half the population — may have
been exposed to toxic levels of arsenic. The
had a water shortage. I was fortunate. After a week I was back to
normal, but it did make me ask a question.
study followed nearly 12,000 Bangladeshis
for over a decade and discovered that more
To make up for the Historically Hanoi has had a water shortage. than 20 percent of deaths were caused by
lack of water, large To make up for the lack of water, large

numbers of houses have wells. It is these
arsenic.
numbers of houses wells, dug deep down into the earth and
into the layer where there is a concentration
The Tests
We started our journey with two samples
have wells. It is these of arsenic, that bring the metalloid up to from the Tay Ho area of West Lake. One
wells, dug deep down the surface. Could I have eaten something
made with contaminated well water? Or as
came from a restaurant that uses pre-filtered
water. The other from West Lake itself.
into the earth and into Aron had speculated over several phone
conversations, could the whole of the city’s
After putting in three doses of different
chemicals to the testing bottle, shaking and
the layer where there water system be at fault? waiting 20 minutes, the litmus paper with
is a concentration of This is exactly what has happened in

Bangladesh over the past 35 years. Millions
the restaurant water turned a very light
yellow. The water was contaminated with
arsenic, that bring the of tube wells were drilled in the 1970s to
provide villagers with clean water, but many
arsenic, but it was just on the limit. This was
commensurate with some recent tests Aron
metalloid up to the of them were dug into shallow layers of
ground that had naturally occurring arsenic,
had conducted of the water at the Syrena
Centre on Xuan Dieu — 0.088 mg/l and
surface” contaminating the water. A recent study led 0.094 mg/l, both just under the WHO limit.
by Dr. Habibul Ahsan of the University of The water from West Lake, however, was
Chicago found that as many as 77 million surprisingly untainted — the test showed

Testing Kits
Two companies produce arsenic
testing kits that are available in Hanoi.
The cost for 100 tests is approximately
VND3 million.
H ACH V IETNAM R.O

Room 16, Floor 6A, V-Reex Centre,
Kinh Do Building, 292 Tay Son,
Dong Da, Hanoi
Tel: (04) 3533 3355 ext. 6162 /
(08) 2220 5371
hachvietnam.blogspot.com
sea.hach.com
M ERCK
10th floor, Capital Tower, 109 Tran
Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Tel: (04) 3974 8860
merck.vn/en/index.html

the arsenic levels at 0.005 mg/l. “Maybe Boiling makes no difference. Neither do Ultimately if we live in Hanoi, we have
it’s time to drink water from West Lake,” standard water filtration systems. to survive, lead normal lives. To avoid
Aron joked. Considering that raw sewage If you do want to filter the substance out, everything or anything that could potentially
gets pumped into the lake, the thought was then there are two expensive options. be contaminated with arsenic would be the
horrific. Could West Lake water turn out to The first solution is reverse osmosis. The equivalent of not living at all. We couldn’t
be safer than tap water? system works by forcing water through a go to restaurants or eat street food, as we
Experiment number two was also special, selective membrane. The membrane wouldn’t know what water has been used
conducted in the West Lake area, but this has microscopic pores that are specially for cooking and for washing the fruit and
time with melted ice. One batch came from sized to allow water molecules through, vegetables. Forget coffee or perhaps even
a restaurant that buys the ice in, the other while trapping larger inorganic molecules non-imported beer. And as for water usage
from a place that makes it on-site. Both came like lead, iron, chromium and arsenic. at home, we would find ourselves using La
back with low levels of arsenic — around Studies have shown that reverse osmosis can Vie or an equivalent for everything. Not only
the 0.003 mg/l to 0.005 mg/l. What was be up to 95 percent effective in the removal is it impractical, it’s impossible.
interesting was the ice that was ‘bought in’. of arsenic. However, if you do feel you’ve contracted
With water supply a problem in Hanoi, The other option is an anionic exchange arsenic poisoning or if you’re worried
our guess is that the ice was made outside system. Using a physical or chemical process about it, then perhaps it’s time to make
the main city, thus meaning it used water to exchange ions between a resin bed and some adjustments. Maybe move apartment
not contaminated with the poison. Likewise, water passing through, these systems soften or house — the water supply could be
the ice made in house suggested that arsenic water, remove iron and manganese, and contaminated — or perhaps, as in my case,
contamination varies from place to place, lower nitrate and arsenic levels. Anionic stop eating at two particular eateries. Or
location to location. exchange systems are usually point-of-entry even better, test the water where you live to
We then headed to the Old Quarter and systems, meaning that they treat all water find out for yourself.
did our next test at an establishment that coming into the home. However, they are
we know uses a well. The results were very costly.
disturbing. Here contamination was high As many people can’t afford this, what
— somewhere between 0.025 mg/l and 0.05 other solutions are there? Filters
mg/l. In other words, from two and a half “I believe arsenic can’t be absorbed
times, to five times the acceptable limit. through the skin,” says Aron, a fact backed To find out more about what water
Whether the water we sampled came from up by the WHO, which states that any skin filters are available, then information
the well or the water system, we couldn’t absorption is minimal. “This means that on Aron’s products, BWT, can be
tell. But it would be fair to conclude that showering, washing your hands and so on is found at water-filter-vietnam.com.
with so many wells in this area, if this absolutely fine. However, you should brush
restaurant is affected, then so will elsewhere. your teeth with mineral water.” His Hanoi showroom is on the ground
Other things he suggests are avoiding bia floor of the Syrena Center Shopping
What Does this Mean? hoi — or at least, bia hoi produced in Central Mall, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0943
If my personal bout of sickness was indeed Hanoi — and being careful about where you 337633 or 0911 459033
arsenic poisoning, then this is a worry. The get your ice from. Coffee is another thing to
problem is that because arsenic particles are avoid. It’s impossible to know whether the
so microscopic, they are among the hardest water is contaminated or not. As for pho and
substances to filter out of the water system. other noodle soups; same problem.
“Buried deep inside the earth’s crust,

the various forms of this metalloid are
normally harmless, unless they manage
to get into the water”
Insider
INSIDER PHOTO ESSAY
Night and Day

at the Flower Market
Jesse Meadows has found a new place to hang out in Hanoi —
the oasis that is the flower market on Au Co

“I
don’t care what country you go teach him how to pronounce them. Then,
to, and how long you live, this she produced a notebook, where Andrew
is one of those special places,” would write English words for her in return.
said my friend Chris, dipping They did this every week, a sort of midnight
a piece of pho ran into his soy sauce and language exchange. We’d developed a sense
stuffing his face. The delicious deep-fried of loyalty to Nga and her pho ran. When all
pho in the shape of a pizza had become a the bars closed, we knew there was always
late-night delicacy for us, and we could the flower market, shining like a fluorescent
only find it here. Other delicacies abound; oasis in the small hours.
one table over, I spied another friend,
Andrew, gnawing on boiled chicken feet, A Brisk Trade
kicking back shots of ruou with Nga and It was months before I even set foot on
her husband, our favourite food stand the flower side of the market. For expats,
vendors. the place is synonymous with midnight
They work here for 12 hours every night, munchies and Bia Hanoi nightcaps. But if
cooking in shifts and taking naps on a small you step past the row of food stands that line
cot next to their stove. Nga, 25, studied the dike road, you will find something rare
cooking in school, and moved to Hanoi from for a street market — peace and fragrance.
central Vietnam to take advantage of the At night, it’s meant for wholesalers, so no
city’s business. She likes serving the drunk one is likely hassle you for purchases. You
Westerners, she says, because they’re fun, can wander in and out of the blossoms,
and they like to sing instead of fight. (It’s surrounded on all sides by red, yellow,
true, I’ve found myself caught up in a few purple and green.
sloppy sing-a-longs around her tables in the There are roses from Vinh Tuy and
past.) chrysanthemums from Tay Tuu; flower
Between drinks with Andrew, Nga would villages on the outskirts of Hanoi that
write Vietnamese words on her hand and have since been absorbed into the city due

to Hanoi’s rapid urbanisation. Tay Ho light on a sidewalk I’ve only known in the
was also known for its flower-growing in dark feels uncanny. They’re all selling the
the past, and the market here began as a same peach blossom trees, lined up along
makeshift meeting point for growers from the dike road where Nga would set up shop
neighbouring districts to sell their products. later that night. But today, there was no sign
When light begins to creep over the of her, not even one plastic chair or banh
horizon, the flower ladies will take the my sign in her usual spot. It’s a place that
stock they’ve bought before dawn and fan holds so much meaning for me, where I see
out into the city to sell throughout the day. memories of times I felt truly happy, with
Sometimes housewives will come in the friends like Chris, who have since moved
early morning to buy bouquets, but usually away. This was the last place I saw him. But
the market packs up before the sun gets too for these women, it’s business as usual, no
high. Before holidays like Tet, though, the sentimentality in sight.
women must work overtime. They stay open I returned to Chi for more pho ran a couple
until noon to meet demand, as fresh flowers months after I saw her and Andrew eating
are necessary to adorn altars and brighten chicken feet. This time, when I ordered
the home for visiting family. food in my broken Vietnamese, she smiled
It can be a stressful time for vendors, and answered in English. I immediately
though. Mai, a 60-year-old woman who remembered their casual language lessons;
has been working here for the last 20 Andrew has since moved away, too, but he’s
years, seemed especially concerned. The left an imprint behind. Like its beginnings
abnormally cold temperatures this winter as a meeting point for flower peddlers,
have threatened her flower supply and the market has become an intersection for
driven prices up. She worries that she won’t cultural exchange, too. We may be driven
sell enough, so she keeps her stand open as by different motivations, like early morning
much as her health allows. Her fears echo hunger or a late night’s work. But whatever
in other vendors’ cries: “Buy from me! Buy draws us here, the flower market is a site
from me!” where we can trade more than just money.
It’s a hectic scene, and the stark morning And that’s the mark of a special place.

Insider
INSIDER HCMC
24 Hour Cafes
Natalia Martínez went on a hunt for cafés that
open the entire night and offer a place to hang
out until sunrise. Photos by Francis Xavier
A
t the stroke of midnight the around midnight with their computers to
mission started. We were about play online games — using smartphones,
to become nocturnal souls in tablets and computers at the same time
search of cafés that open all night without taking an eye off their screens — to
long, gathering all kinds of people and the ones that seek a quiet place as a retreat
stories. It turns out that Ho Chi Minh City to get some work done. You can also find
— another of those big metropolises that other types of clients that would rather hang
never sleeps — offers a wide list of cafés out with some blended juices instead of
that remain open 24 hours to cover every clubbing.
customer’s need. Most of these cafés are gathered around
The March There are many kinds of customers that District 1 and District 3. Ahead of us there
51 Tran Quang Dieu, Q3 frequent these spots late at night. From were a few hours and drinks to experience
the classic group of friends that gathers the other side of the night.
Drinks: 3.5 stars
Decor: Simple
Ambience: Good and relaxed
Reasons to go: To hang out
and play video games
T he far side of the canal from District 3,

Phu Nhuan, was set as the beginning of
the tour. The March is an average, classic
the entrance, sits an ancient video console
so you can play arcade games until the sun
rises. The first drinks of our night were a
Vietnamese café that is modestly decorated very average ca phe sua da (VND24,000) and
with some tiny tables and chairs. Here crowds a peach ice tea (VND34,000) which met our
of men in their 20s meet to play computer expectations. Meanwhile, we got involved
games and get a buzz from tra da and with some serious arcade action and over
cigarettes. No panic, in case you didn’t bring numerous battles — playing Street Fighter —
your A-game or any company with you, at delayed our next stop.

CI5 Café
243 Le Van Sy, Q3
Drinks: 5 stars
Decor: A nice mix resulting from retro and hipster tools
Ambience: A very homey place
Reasons to go: To work or chill
A quiet and adorable place,

perfect if you are looking for
somewhere to spend the night
decorations — where you can get
comfortable; the upstairs floor
has a terrace from where you can
finishing stuff that you have look out at the night. CI5 Café has
left undone. There is plenty of a coffee machine which makes an
room — stuffed with retro-hip excellent latte for VND32,000.

G Café
65 Ho Xuan Huong, Q3
Drinks: 3 stars
Decor: Rustic
Ambience: Ok
Reasons to go: To hang out
G Café follows the same style as the

March. They have a few spots around
the city, although the one we chose at 65
Ho Xuan Huong was not very inviting.
This outside café is almost entirely made
of wood and occupies the path with
its miniature sets of stools and tables.
In G Café you will probably share the
space with teenagers playing with their
computers and watching YouTube videos.
If you are not into these two pastimes,
you still have the opportunity for some
people watching if it's not too late in the
evening. The drinks here won’t kill you
— the mosquitoes may — though they
might disappoint you as the vanilla blend
(VND39,000) did me.

Step Up
32 Pham Hong Thai, Q1
Drinks: 3 stars
Decor: Simple
Ambience: Busy and good
Reasons to go: To meet your buddies
at late hours
T his is just another option for people

to hang out when night falls. Its big
terrace is an attraction, as is its rooftop,
but sadly the selection and quality of
the drinks is quite poor. My choice here
was a wild berry soda for VND40,000,
which I drank while one of the
waitresses was having a cheeky nap on
one of the tables, making me feel very
jealous since it was already 3am.

Heritage Café
10 Pasteur, Q1
Drinks: 5 stars
Decor: Vintage, with an excellent taste
Ambience: Cosy
Reasons to go: To indulge in style and play with English bulldogs
P asteur Street hosts a few known cafés like

The Factory Cafe and Thuc where night
owls hang out sitting on the tiny toddler
some shelves packed with vintage suitcases
and big beautiful portraits of work by the
French photographer Réhahn.
chairs spread out on the path. But to be One of its signature drinks is the egg
fair, nothing beats the Heritage Café. This coffee, Hanoi-style (VND55,000), so that
remarkable spot is located at the beginning was the chosen one for this stop. It had a
of this busy road. Behind a half-hipster, half- thick layer of the fluffy mix of egg yolk and
vintage-looking facade, it hides a museum of sweetened milk, which covered an intense
beautiful gems hanging from its wall; from Robusta coffee with a powerful smoky
vinyls, to old school bicycles, with room for aroma.

Mr. 8
2 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1
Drinks: 3 stars
Decor: simple
Ambience: Solitary, if not depressing
Reasons to go: To find some peace of mind
T he corner location is excellent, but the

quality location is quickly undermined
by the disappointment of the café
experience itself. After entering the café
we realized how tiny it was, and one of the
tables on the ground floor was occupied
by a girl dressed in school uniform, who
had fallen into a deep sleep. We ordered
a lychee ice tea (VND55,000) and headed
upstairs followed by a strange smell that I
never managed to pinpoint. And as it was
meant to be, we sat by the big window,
drank the tea and watched the night.
Unclosed Café
85 Ho Tung Mau, Q1
Drinks: 4 stars
Decor: Simple yet nice
Ambience: Relaxed
Reasons to go: To work or chill
A nd the tour came to its end, the last

stop being Unclosed Café, where
we shared the room with a group of
Vietnamese girls that were sleeping on the
couches, killing time and waiting for their
bus back to the Mekong Delta. To call it
a night, I ordered a strawberry yoghurt
(VND49,000), something smooth before
going to bed and getting some sleep. Once
we heard the roosters starting to crow we
knew it was time to go home.

Food and Drink
MYSTERY DINER HANOI
Panam’
Fancy a crepe anyone? Our mystery diner certainly did when they headed to Truong
Han Sieu for a taste of Brittany’s best-known dish. Photos by Julie Vola
C
overing all bases, Panam’ on offer. Savoury crêpes (also called galettes) cider, called ‘doux’, if that’s your preference.
describes itself on the one hand as come from the Brittany region of France, Other drinks on offer include beer, wine,
a “creperie & salon de thé”, and and are made with buckwheat flour, which a selection of flavoured teas, fruit juices,
also as a French restaurant, lounge makes them darker and more wholesome- coffees, cocktails, and alcohol-free mocktails.
and café. tasting than the regular wheat ones. After the galette and cider my lovely
Opening its doors earlier this year, the The impressive list of galettes includes companion and I shared a crêpe with Nutella
restaurant has a clean black and white standard choices, like the galette complète on it (VND65,000). The dessert crêpes are
facade and an understated sign. Once inside, (VND125,000), with egg, ham, and emmental made from regular wheat flour, so they are
the décor is a mish-mash of styles, with cheese, or more unusual options, like the lighter in both texture and taste, perfect
clear plastic and other modern chairs mixed well-named ‘Pommenbert’ galette, with apples vessels for an end-of-meal sugar injection.
with colourful sofas and wooden antiques. and camembert (VND150,000), or galettes Aside from the simple options (chocolate,
In the front room guests are greeted with a with foie gras (VND235,000) or salmon honey, jam and Nutella, all around
hanging thread curtain, like a beaded curtain (VND160,000). VND60,000 to VND65,000) they also have
but without any beads, which seems odd. I chose a galette complète Tomme more exciting ones (banana split, Suzette,
Behind a courtyard with high tables is a (VND125,000), with egg, ham, and Tomme snickers, homemade salted butter caramel,
bar with dark wood in neat patterns on the cheese from Moc Chau. The galette was chocolate with mint ice cream, etc.), all sure
ceiling, and pillows with natural images, like delicious, salty and meaty and nicely to satisfy any sweet-tooth cravings from
leaves or pineapples, on them. The menu is browned on the outside, and came with your inner five-year-old.
pretty, printed in a variety of fonts on brown a fresh side salad drizzled in a mustard The waiting staff were friendly and
paper, and the tables are plain wood, each vinaigrette that made me want to lick my welcoming throughout, and although they did
one with a sprig of dainty flowers. bowl clean (it’s ok, Mum, I didn’t!). rush around a bit unnecessarily considering
I arrived with a friend and we quickly chose it was a slow night, everything arrived
a spot in the back near the bar, which seemed Cider and Galette promptly. It’s nice when the staff are as serious
more welcoming than the eclectic front rooms, To accompany the meal I sampled some about getting my dinner to me as I am.
and settled in with high expectations. Breton cider (VND75,000), which was Overall, I was blown away by the food
fresh and fruity but not sweet, a perfect at Panam’. For a little taste of Europe, you
Full of Crepe complement to the heavier flavours of the couldn’t do better.
The menu features mostly crêpes, although it food. It was called ‘brut’, which is French for Panam’ is located at 26 Truong Han Sieu,
also has salads, croque monsieur and paninis amazing, probably. They also have a sweeter Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

THE VERDICT
14
FOOD
13
SERVICE
12
DÉCOR
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 — 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 — 12.5
very good to
excellent
8 — 9.5 good to
very good
5 — 7.5 fair to
good
0 — 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word
reviews
anonymously
and pays for all
meals
Food and Drink
STREET SNACKER HANOI
Pho Vit Quay

Pho with roasted duck noodles? The street food variations in the capital
know no bounds. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by Julie Vola
P
ho vit quay may sound a bit strange The duck is marinated in the seasoning of fatty juice extracted from the stuffed
to some people and could be mixture for at least one hour to make sure stomach of the duck when roasted. Next, try a
said to be a variation of Hanoi’s the seasoning can seep into the meat. This piece of Vietnamese-styled chilled marinated
traditional and signature pho also helps kill bad odours as well as produce bamboo shoots, which definitely spices up the
bo and pho ga. The dish uses similar glossy, mouth-watering duck skin when broth and adds to the duck taste.
ingredients for the broth, yet the main roasted over coals. Besides pho vit quay, the restaurant offers
ingredient — the duck, replacing beef or “Cooked whole then served finely carved a wide range of duck dishes, among which
chicken — really does bring a different into pieces, the duck meat is both juicy and vit ap chao or fried duck stewed in a savoury
taste and a different mood to the dish. tender,” the chef says. sweet sauce is another of its signature dishes.
There are not many eateries in town The chef added that duck to be used for For someone who loves all things duck,
offering pho vit quay — one that features this pho is cooked slightly less than duck used for the Quan Vit 29 restaurant chain is another
very tasty dish is Vit Ngoc Phat 96 Lo Duc. dishes that will be immediately served, as it awesome spot to taste duck that is meaty
Opened five years ago and claimed to be the undergoes further cooking when placed in and delicious, and the chance to taste a pho
first eatery to offer this new type of pho in the boiling broth. vit quay sibling — bun vit tron or vermicelli
Hanoi, the restaurant attracts a lot of people with duck. Both of these restaurants also
both for its pho and its wide variety of duck In The Simmer Time offer a delicious whole duck takeaway for
dishes. According to the owner, this pho has The pho vit quay broth is another element that eating at home.
its origins in Vietnam’s northern province bring a real difference in taste compared to Vit Ngoc Phat is located at 96 Lo Duc, Hai Ba
of Lang Son and its taste reflects Lang Son’s traditional pho, as duck ribs and necks are Trung, Hanoi near the crossroads with Nguyen
signature style of roasting the duck with a simmered in a big pot to produce the sweet Cong Tru. Pho vit quay is VND30,000 per bowl.
local herb called la moc mat. and tasty broth for the pho. The eatery is open from 6am to 2pm for breakfast
“Regarding the meat, it all begins with First comes a bunch of noodles, a few slices and lunch, and from 4pm to 9pm for dinner.
a perfect stuffing mixture made of finely of duck meat, then a bowl of broth and a few The Quan Vit 29 chain has a number of outlets,
chopped onion, garlic, pepper, cardamom, kinds of herbs and very fresh onion on top. one of which is located downtown at 24 Nguyen
anise and la moc mat,” the restaurant’s chef All of these make up a tempting bowl of pho. Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem. Bun vit tron costs
says. As recommended by the chef, take a spoon VND30,000 a bowl

Food and Drink
MYSTERY DINER HCMC
Café-Restaurant
Located close to Ben Thanh Market, this recently opened bistro and café is getting
some plaudits. So what does our Mystery Diner say? Photos by Francis Xavier
“I
s that it?” My date points at the chunks of Gouda and bleu cheese. mousse topped with a swirl of cream. The
discreet little entryway. Above it For my entrée, I went with the 250-gram house-brewed limoncello (VND160,000)
stretches the sign: Café-Restaurant classic steak (VND390,000), a medium-rare added a balancing tartness. The most novel
Ho Chi Minh City. striploin with a healthy-sized rind of soft, taste came from the house-brewed Marou
Squeezing up the staircase, we turn on delicious fat. The accompanying roasted chocolate liqueur, normally VND160,000 but
the landing to see a huge space, warmly lit, veggies were crisp and lightly glazed with oil. dropped off gratis by the smiling owner.
and a tall, smiling blond man with his hand My date pounced on the lamb chops
outstretched for a shake. (VND420,000) after a brief debate over the Dutch for Feng Shui
Café-Restaurant is new, but has already duck breast. The balsamic reduction was Set in a large open space reminiscent of
featured in a steady stream of positive tart, sweet and intense, an excellent high- a converted 19th-century factory, the tall
reviews. My first impressions supported one note with the fragrant, juicy lamb — and windows provide an interesting view
idea mentioned by them all — the restaurant especially with the roasted Hasselback carrot over the Ben Thanh Market area. The high
feels very European, a Continental breeze in glittering with crystals of sea-salt. ceilings and lack of screens or interior walls
Southeast Asia. Both cuts of meat came with hefty cupfuls reduce the intimacy, though the open seating
Serving from breakfast to fashionably late of fries, wrapped in paper in a manner that plan lends itself to parties and large groups.
dinners, CRHCMC sources many products strongly reminded me of the Netherlands — The restaurant is also divided by theme,
locally. They cook with low amounts of salt minus the mayonnaise. The fries were crisp each area showing a distinct character — the
and sugar, a touch I appreciate as long as the and not too oily, yet we only nibbled; the open kitchen where the chefs toil, the formal
salt shaker is nearby. older I get, the less I eat French fries. dining tables, the lounge with its sofas, the
Seating was prompt due to the late We took a side of pesto pasta long bar. The space flows well.
hour. The smiling waiter dropped off soft, (VND60,000), light and smooth, bursting The décor is spare but high quality;
steaming rolls with a dish of an intriguingly with aromatic basil. a marble-and-brass bar, oak furniture,
green spread. We tucked into the warm bread gorgeous old tiles crowned by a lovely wall
rolls slathered with herbed butter, settling Sweet and Tart, Chocolate and painting of French doctor Albert Calmette.
into our familiar debate about what to order. Lemon Perhaps not the first destination for an
I appreciated the breadth of the drinks anniversary or swank night out, it delivers
The Continental Touch menu, though they offer fewer cocktails than value for money in a calm, friendly ambience
While the menu offers a variety of one might expect. Local craft beer, bottled right by Ben Thanh Market. Café-Restaurant
Vietnamese dishes, we went for the Western Belgian ales, a sizable wine list and a top Ho Chi Minh City’s central location makes
options. shelf of spirits that went on forever… then it a great place to pop in for dinner on your
The meat and cheese board (VND200,000), my date tapped my motorbike key, and I way to the theatre or the opera, or for a
despite its low cost, left us a bit let-down at ordered a 750ml bottle of San Pellegrino lunch with business colleagues and friends.
how little food it held; I barely noticed the (VND130,000). Café-Restaurant Ho Chi Minh City is located
sausage and ham. It tasted great, but I had For dessert, we went decadent: the on the first floor at 171 Calmette, Q1, HCMC. To
to ask for more bread to support the rich Pur’ (VND160,000), a wealth of chocolate learn more, visit them at crhcmc.com

THE VERDICT
13
FOOD
13
SERVICE
13
DÉCOR
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 — 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 — 12.5
very good to
excellent
8 — 9.5 good to
very good
5 — 7.5 fair to
good
0 — 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word
reviews
anonymously
and pays for all
meals
Food and Drink
STREET SNACKER HCMC
The Best Banh Xeo

in Saigon
The king of snacks, banh xeo is everywhere in Ho Chi Minh City. But which joint
makes the best? Natalia Martínez went on little tour in search of the winner.
Photos by Francis Xavier
The Vietnamese Dosa different adaptations, nowadays one thing Whole prawns, pork belly, bean sprouts
Anchored in Vietnamese food history, banh is sure; the version sold from the early 20th and mung beans are sprinkled on the batter,
xeo is one the most iconic dishes served at century never fails. which rests on the hot-fired skillet. Once it
this country’s tables. This snack actually is cooked, this golden crepe is folded and
holds a fascinating and surprising story, The Art of Eating Banh Xeo served on a tray at the table, accompanied
which disproves the hypothesis that this Banh xeo’s name comes from the intense with a bunch of assorted fresh herbs and
crepe is a gift from the French cuisine of the sizzling sound the batter produces when vegetables such as lettuce, mustard leaves,
late 19th century. According to Cameron it’s poured into the frying pan. The mixture mint or Vietnamese basil. Grab a chunk of
Stauch — a chef and writer who lives of this savoury pancake — usually made of the crepe and use the greens as a wrap for
and works in Hanoi — and some other rice flour, water, eggs and scallions — varies the banh xeo — rice paper or banh trang are
researchers, banh xeo is in fact a relative of depending on its origin. The central regions sometimes used to get the perfect experience
the savoury Indian dosa and a result of the are home to a thicker and smaller pan-fried — ready to be dipped in some nuoc mam.
Hindu-influenced kingdom of Champa version. The further south you go, the Add some extra chilli to make the most of
which occupied the south-central coast of larger the banh xeo gets — this formula uses the bite.
Vietnam until the 19th century. coconut milk to get a thinner and crispier In order to locate the best banh xeo in Ho
Even though the recipe might have texture, as well as some turmeric to provide Chi Minh City, we visited the following
evolved from its original form resulting in it with a yellow colour. places. Here is our verdict.
Banh Xeo 46A been selling these crepes for almost 90 years.
Groups of tourists come here to experience
46 Dinh Cong Trang, Q1 one of the top dishes you can find on
Price: VND75,000 per portion Vietnamese menus. Perhaps this is the
Open hours: 10am to 2pm and 4pm to 9pm reason they remove the head of the prawns,
Score: 8/10 unlike most of the other eateries, something
The search started in the spot that is meant that picky customers might be thankful for.
to be the best in town. Banh Xeo 46A has Some say it is overpriced and misses
been recommended in guides and featured the essence of what it used to be but
in numerous travel shows including honestly, after my experience, there was no
Anthony Bourdain’s. To find this banh xeo, disappointment. The size of the crepe was
look for the pink church in Tan Dinh. Across challenging to finish, it had a good amount
the street after entering the alley, this corner of fillings with a balanced crispiness, all
remains as a veteran in the business; it has brought together with great service.
Banh Xeo Mien Tay Dien Bien Phu
335
335 Dien Bien Phu, Q3
Price: VND35,000 per portion
Open hours: 2.30pm to 10pm
Score: 7/10
In an alley just off bustling Dien Bien Phu,
right before Banana Garden Market (Cho
Vuon Chuoi), you can find this popular banh
xeo place. This spot also remains on my list of
favourites and starts serving early dinners as
soon as rush hour begins. Many drivers don’t
even park their bikes since they can just take
their crepe on the go as the kitchen overlooks
the street, like in most of these eateries.
The owner is a known crepe master, as
well as the mother of one of my students,
who joined me to sample its speciality and
shared some secrets about their restaurant.
The crunchy pancake that arrived at the
table was slightly smaller compared to other
versions, but it was substantial enough. The
prawns inside had been cooked previously,
which gave a more intense flavour to
the crepe. This, combined with a fresh
homemade chilli sauce, definitely made it an PHOTOS BY NATALIA MARTINEZ
extraordinary dish.
Banh Xeo Ngoc Son success, and the crowds that flock there
are living proof of its appeal. Families sit
103 Ngo Quyen, Q5 around the tables waiting for a colossal
Price: VND50,000 per portion banh xeo that dwarfs the plate. Famous for
Open hours: 9am to 9pm being crispy and with nice lacy edges, this
Score: 6.5/10 pancake comes with a good amount of
If you happen to be in Cho Lon, Ngoc Son fillings in which the prawns are particularly
should be your place to go. This three- big. However, I found that the dough was
storey establishment has been serving lacking a bit of taste, probably diluted by
crepes for more than 20 years with great the watery consistency of the bean sprouts.
Banh Xeo Muoi Xiem
190 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
Price: VND85,000 per portion
Open hours: 10am to 10pm
Score: 5/10
Muoi Xiem is the name of a chain that
has a few restaurants around the city.
This place, inspired by the Mekong Delta
countryside, serves traditional food
typical of the region. Inside you will find
yourself in what looks like a bamboo hut
with pictures on the walls of Vietnamese
women cooking. With a wide menu full
of southern delicacies we decided to try
something new since they offer a few
different versions of banh xeo with different
fillings.
The chosen variety was made with
seafood, shreds of coconut and extra
coconut milk added to the batter.
Unfortunately the pancake was too greasy
and to our surprise too empty; there was
hardly any seafood and the ingredients
were all lumped together in the middle.
So overall, together with poor service, it
was a bit of a disappointing experience
considering the price of the pancake.
Banh Xeo CMTT constant hustle of motorbikes going up and **********

down this busy road. Even though these banh xeo palaces
656 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 It certainly gets quite full at night, so go have an indisputable star in their menus,
Price: VND8,000 per portion early to grab a stool and indulge in these cute they also offer a wide selection of other
Opening hours: 2.30pm to 10pm tiny crepes that can be easily devoured in two Vietnamese dishes such as fresh and fried
Score: 7/10 bites. These were the first banh xeo I tasted spring rolls, bo ba lot — beef wrapped in
This is a tiny spot that sits on a corner of when I moved to Vietnam so my judgement betel leaf — and much more. So, if you
one of the busiest streets in Ho Chi Minh towards them is mostly favourable. However, haven’t tried it yet, gather some friends
City and serves the difficult-to-find central they do feel a bit greasy. This can be solved and get your hands dirty devouring
region version of banh xeo. This meal was an by adding more herbs to the wrap, but it is this delicious crepe that is so integral to
interesting local experience that included perhaps something which is difficult to avoid Vietnamese cuisine.
stares from Vietnamese people and the since they are deep fried.

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TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL
Bangkok in Squares Thailand’s biggest city through a lens

F
or all its ugliness, Bangkok is
surprisingly photogenic; beyond
the dirt, grime and exhaust fumes,
visually the Thai capital has much
to commend it. Yet rarely do you see
professional photos of the place, except for
the ultra-touristy palace or floating market
— two sites that make all the brochures.
Unless you’ve been there, you won’t have
any idea about the look and feel of this city.
So over a recent weekend in Bangkok I
decided to use this Asian metropolis as my
subject matter. I imposed two restrictions.
First the lens; a fixed 24mm, 1.4. No zoom
meant having to move with the camera to
get the right image, which also meant being
mobile. In the tropical heat of an urban
Asian city, it can get sweaty.
The other was that each image would
be cropped into a square. Why? For effect.
It means you can create a collage, nine or
12 squares a page. Four or six pages. Each
page focusing on a different overriding
theme. But it also means you are restricting
how much subject matter you can get in
one photo; you are playing games with the
standard rules of composition.

Don’t Take the Taxis
Looking through these photos I am struck
as much by what is included as by what is
missing; food, five-star hotels, bars, amazing
high-rises, restaurants, the sophisticated Thai
and the city’s canals. Yet considering this essay
was shot in less than 48 hours, it still gives a
good impression of what the city is like.
As for Bangkok, it’s a city that at times
grows on me, and at other times drives me
crazy, in particular the taxi drivers. If I catch a
taxi and reach a location without being driven
to the middle of nowhere — once I almost
ended up at Don Muang Airport at 1am — I’m
pretty happy. The solution? Start learning Thai
— Nick Ross

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TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL
The Best Restaurants

in Phnom Penh
It’s just over the border, and yet for many people living in Vietnam, the Cambodian
capital remains a mystery. Owen Salisbury goes on a foodie tour of Phnom Penh and
discovers that when it comes to dining, this city is in a world of its own
T
he restaurant scene in Phnom Penh Some of it is world-class.
is exploding. With nearly 1,000 Over the course of approximately 10 trips
restaurants listed on TripAdvisor in the last five years, I have come up with
— up from half that only a couple list of what I think are the best restaurants
years ago — you can find almost any type in Phnom Penh. These categories are not
of food imaginable at low to reasonable hard and fast, but reflect my biases and
prices. experiences.
Winning Dinners
The Tiger’s Eye breakfast, the restaurant’s re-creation also more, as everything tastes simply incredible.
The brainchild of South African Chef saw changes to its menu. Though still based Starters to salads, entrees to desserts,
Timothy Bruyns, The Tiger’s Eye is the on what’s fresh in the market that day, cocktails to coffee, I’ve yet to have a single
second iteration of The Common Tiger. the menu also includes a stable roster of bite that was less than delicious.
Chef Tim spent years cooking in France, at favourites as well as constantly evolving If you truly love food, treat yourself to the
jet-set resorts and on private islands in the specials. US$55 (VND1.24 million) tasting menu and
Seychelles before opening The Common Personal favourites include brined pork prepare to experience foodvana. It’s easily
Tiger — his first restaurant — at the tender chops with marinated soy beans and smoked one of my favourite dining experiences of
age of 31. tuna. all time.
A whirlwind of dazzling, dynamic food, Overall, The Tiger’s Eye is reasonably The Tiger’s Eye is located at 49 Samdech
The Tiger’s Eye is beginning to gain the priced, with entrees as low as US$9 Sothearos, Phnom Penh, just south of the
respect it deserves. Recently opened for (VND203,000), but it’s oh-so-easy to spend Independence Monument

The Chinese House
The only restaurant to give The Tiger’s Eye
a run for its money, the newly reopened
Chinese House is pretty far off from
downtown. Located in a historic building, it
looks like an opium den converted to a low-
key discotheque.
Run by a South African couple, manager
Taki and chef Amy — winner of Iron Chef
Thailand — blast Asian fusion cuisine into
a parallel universe. No other restaurant has
the brass to offer samosas, banh xeo and bun
cha next to carpaccio and cheese plates. Asian
Contemporary? Pan Pacific? Labels simply
cannot do it justice. Personally, I recommend
the duck — one of the juiciest duck breasts
I’ve ever eaten.
Less than a year old, the place is still
changing its menu and style, but drink and
nibble at small plates downstairs or sit down to
full dinners in the vault-ceilinged upper floor.
The Chinese House is located at 45 Sisowath
Quay, Phnom Penh, in a protected building
constructed in 1905
Kaviar served with a trio of fragrant yogurt dips, respect, a fluffy treat that dissolved perfectly
Any list of winners will still have a loser. nor for them to be so ill-served by the choice into the Freixenet Cava Nevada I ordered.
Sorry, Kaviar — set in a historic building of bread. The chicken was the star; subtly Expect a multi-course dinner to run US$50
and decorated with a Persian-inflected spiced, dusted with char and as juicy as a (VND1.13 million) and up per person, not
sumptuousness, the food simply didn’t live up Georgia peach. The beef was overcooked including wine.
to the reputation, the ambience or the price. and dry, and the salad came with a ketchup- Kaviar is located at the corner of Street 55
While not exactly bad, one does not expect and-mayo dressing. and Street 242, Phnom Penh, in the historic
bog-standard La Ortega-brand tortillas o be The dessert soufflé earned them back some Residence of King Norodom Suramarit

Weekday Lunches
Topaz
The grand old man of French restaurants
in Phnom Penh, Topaz opened in 1997.
The once-tiny family restaurant moved in
December to a space that looks more like an
art museum than an eatery.
Priced accordingly, the best way to dine
there without torturing your wallet is their
US$20+ set lunch (VND450,000). Choices
vary, but everything I’ve tried — from duck
breast to roast beef — was excellent, classic
French cuisine done right. Dinner goes for
more like US$50 (VND1.13 million) per
person, or potentially much more, given
their caviar-and-lobster style.
With little touches like warm bread and
butter in chilled stone boxes and wildly
creative amuse-bouches I’ve yet to see
repeated, Topaz kills it with the Western
crowd, particularly the well-heeled and
well-connected.
Service is quick and unobtrusive. Topaz
also boasts a superior wine selection and
spirits to match.
Topaz is located at 162 Preah Norodom,
Phnom Penh.

Open Wine Also popular with the diplomatic crowd, favourites and a weekly specials menu. The
Topaz may be the leader, but Open Wine Open Wine is considerably lower-key than chef reputedly returned from a six-month
is the popular favourite and offers the best Topaz, perfect for long, lazy lunches with a refresher course, cooking in some of the finer
value for money. Their three-course US$12 paperback. kitchens in France.
(VND270,000) set lunch doesn’t include booze, The décor isn’t anything special, but the Try the carpaccio and the pork filet with
but with a price that low, you can afford to service is great and the food a positive steal. mustard sauce and potato croquettes.
indulge yourself a little with a glass of cab The cuisine is more southwest France Open Wine is located at 219 Street 19, Phnom
sauv or an après-lunch glass of calvados. than classical Parisian, but has plenty of Penh, right next to the Royal Palace
La Residence
Connected in some way to the Royal palace
— no one I asked ever told the same story
— La Rez is a beautiful, chic respite from
the heat and hustle of the capital’s streets.
Clearly, one could come here for a truly
swank dinner, but La Rez’s set lunches
define the higher end of that market.
Choose either the regular three-course menu
for US$17 (VND378,000), or the three-course
gourmet for US$32 (VND712,000). Either way,
the chefs turn a suave hand to 21st-century
French cuisine. For a starter, definitely try the
pea soup with cappuccino cream, and follow
up with the chicken roulade.
Not included in the set lunch, their foie
gras selections are their crowning glory; it’s
die-happy level indulgence.
One of the most beautiful restaurants
on the list, so take some time to look at the
sculpted gardens outside or sit under the
waterfall as you dine. Be sure to check out
the carefully selected objets d’art scattered
throughout the space.
Prices for anything outside the menu are
high — like US$5 (VND111,000) for water
— so be watchful. But hey, even with lunch,
you’re not here to pinch pennies.
La Residence is located at No. 22-24 Samdach
Pan Avenue (Street 214), Phnom Penh. It also
features private dining rooms and a Salon de Thé

Good for Anything
Malis It would be more peaceful if it was less jasmine flowers and honey over fruit.
No list of the best of Phnom Penh would be crowded, but I’m happy to see Malis take in Service is efficient and friendly, and
complete without Malis, a high-end imagining the customers; it’ll still be there next time I they are happy to help you navigate the
of Khmer food that is eminently reasonable in want to go. intricacies of Khmer cuisine.
price and exquisitely beautiful in location. Another place that serves an excellent Malis is located at 136 Preah Norodom (Street
For the best experience, ask to sit in the duck breast, Malis also has some interesting 41), Phnom Penh. If you want to eat dinner at
garden and enjoy the splashing fountains, cocktails featuring local ingredients. Be sure a normal time, make reservations especially on
pools and smiling statue of the Buddha. to try their signature dessert, a mousse with weekends
Luigi’s
Bassac Lane is home to half a dozen up-
and-coming restaurants, but one stands
out; Luigi’s serves authentic Italian
food with a kind of manic insistence on
quality over everything else.
Looking as though a teleporter
accident fused a sleepy Napolitano
pizzeria with a Cambodian café, Luigi’s
features a standard array of pizzas,
pastas, desserts and digestifs.
The deli counter crammed between
counter and door is special, as is the
marvellous selection of imported cheese
and meat crammed therein. Whatever
they don’t import, they make in-house
to amazing effect.
The pizzas are thin-crust perfection,
with a hint of char on the bottom,
sweetly acidic tomato sauce and
bubbling-hot mozzarella.
Portions are large and prices
reasonable, but the café itself is tiny, so
it’s easy for supper to end with your
elbow in your neighbour’s tiramisu.
Luigi’s is located at M36 Street 308,
Phnom Penh, near Bassac Lane

Staring Into The
Tiger’s Eye
Charismatic, tattooed and handsome,
Timothy Bruyns, the 34-year-old South
African chef and owner of The Tiger’s
Eye, doesn’t look like your average chef
and restaurateur.
His first version of The Tiger’s Eye
— The Common Tiger — gained a
nearly cult-like following but also some
surprisingly vitriolic reviews. His cooking
style is so eclectic and improvisational,
that it’s almost a love-it-or-hate-it affair.
Tim dropped out of university and
abandoned a smooth path to the
corporate world because he couldn’t
muster any passion for it.
Odd-jobbing in restaurants led to
cooking, and working long hours for poor
wages in his native South Africa. Before
long, his wandering feet and obvious
culinary talents led him to grander jobs in
more refined kitchens.
Almost like some kind of TV Shaolin
monk, Chef Tim spent a decade
wandering the earth and learning to
cook. After cheffing in the UK, France and
Tanzania, Tim worked at a private island
in the Seychelles where he cooked for
Limoncello have a small but respectable stock of Italian celebrities from around the world, including
You know a restaurant is good when the only wines to match.
Robert de Niro.
thing your girlfriend wants from Phnom They also have the best homemade
He also possesses one trait often
Penh is one of their pizzas. More than once limoncello this side of Campania, which goes
overlooked by even serious gourmets;
have I bought two to go just before hopping brilliantly with their panna cotta and a dash
on the bus; one for her, and one for the road. of espresso. pedigree. Tim worked at the Singita
The first restaurant I ate at in Phnom Penh Not the most elegant or fashionable place Hotel, one of whose chefs apprenticed at
and until recently my favourite authentic to dine, Limoncello is here because the food Troisgros, a Michelin 3-star since 1968 and
Italian place in Southeast Asia, I make a is consistently terrific, full stop. one of the more influential restaurants of the
point to go back most visits. The pizza Limoncello is located at 81 Sisowath Quay, last century.
diavola is terrific, as is the pizza carbonara. Phnom Penh, around the corner from the Giant Chef Tim’s not there yet, but with time,
Limoncello isn’t just a pizzeria, of course; Ibis Bus Terminal in case you have a few hours with his creativity and passion, there’s no
their pasta is amazingly authentic, and they to kill telling what he’ll achieve.

Travel
TRAVEL NATIONAL
10 Destinations in
Vietnam to Visit in 2016
Or, the alternative guide to travelling in Vietnam. Words by Nick Ross
F
or a publication that celebrates the more to travelling through this country than
diversity of Vietnam, it has always hitting Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and the
been a frustration that people country’s tour group hotspots.
constantly visit the same places. If you want to feel like you’ve ‘done’
Yes, we genuinely love destinations such Vietnam, here are 10 places we say you
as Hoi An, Phu Quoc, Halong Bay and Sapa. absolutely must visit in 2016. Just don’t
When it comes to tourist-friendly delights, in always expect it to be easy. Five star hotels?
the main they do a great job. But there is far In some places, not a bloomin’ chance.
PHOTO BY NICK ROSS
Ha Giang
Ha Giang is categorically the most throwaway words — it’s breathtaking. Getting There-o-meter: Hard. Think
beautiful province in Vietnam. It’s also Home to about six or seven ethnic overnight sleeper bus. Getting around?
the most northerly, too. Every valley you minorities, most of whom still live in the Even harder, unless you don’t mind hiring a
pass through is different, the next more mountains and wear traditional dress, the motorcycle or a four-wheel-drive jeep.
exhilarating than the last. jewel in a very large crown is the pass just
Word has been there twice to take outside of the former French hill station, Accommodation Watch: Erm... Well...
photos and write articles. We were Dong Van. With a 1km drop to the river They’ve got guesthouses in the towns. Just
mesmerised both times. Why? The below, and mountains towering above, don’t expect creature comforts.
scenery. If they say seeing is believing, in pinch yourself and you might think
the case of Ha Giang, seeing is also about you’re in the Andes.
holding your breath. Yes, we’ll use the

PHOTOS BY WORD VIETNAM / AARON JOEL SANTOS
Hue
The former Imperial capital of Vietnam
should be on every Ron, Mick and Mary’s
bucket list, but thanks to the nearby charms
and more tourist-friendly meccas of Hoi
An and Danang, this tranquil yet endearing
city is often overlooked. The problem? Yes,
it’s got a citadel and tombs and museums
and beautiful countryside and bridges and
boat cruises, but it’s just not by the sea, there
are no tailors and there’s nothing to buy —
unless you like food, ‘cos Hue is good at
that.
Now we at Word love Hue. It’s a city of
artisans and culture, and travel inland and
the jungle-clad mountains are the stuff of
war movies.
So should you go there? Hell, yes! This
is culture, baby, culture, with great scenery
thrown in, too.
Getting There-o-meter: Yes, Hue’s got an

airport, a new airport even. Let’s jump for
joy. It’s also on the Open Tour bus route and
the north-south train line. Woohoo!
Accommodation Watch: If you like 1920s

elegance, then La Residence is oh-so ooh-
la-la. There’s a lot of budget around, too,
especially close to the Pham Ngu Lao area.

PHOTO BY WORD VIETNAM / FRANCIS ROUX
Phong Nha
You may not be able to visit the largest
cave in the world — for preservation and
safety purposes, entrance is both restricted
and expensive. But the other caves are well
worth the journey.
Take the water caves of Tu Lan. There’s
something Harrison Ford about this place
as you swim through the grottos in the
pitch black and end up in a hidden outdoor
lake. And then there’s Hang En, home to
100,000 swallows with its indoor beach and
subterranean mystique.
Part of a national park, the limestone
karsts and jungle give Phong Nha an extra
aura, and with a town developing faster
than the speed of a construction truck flying
down Highway 1, this is becoming a place
to chill out as well. Ever heard of the Pub
With Cold Beer? Go to Phong Nha and you
might just. Ever wanted to cycle down back
roads through the rolling countryside? Go to
Phong Nha and it’s at your fingertips.
Getting There-o-meter: Flights from Hanoi

go to Dong Hoi, the area’s only city. You
can also hit the train or even take a bus
from Hue. This one’s easy. Just, if you fly,
make sure you know your taxi fare first.
VND500,000 from the airport to Phong Nha
can be hard to swallow.
Accommodation Watch: No five-stars

here yet, but a lot of excellent homestay-
style options with idyllic scenery. Phong
Nha Farmstay is a keeper, as is the dorm
accommodation at Easy Tiger. Want to stay
at the home of Ho Khanh, the person who
discovered the world’s largest cave? Well
even he’s got a riverside homestay these
days.

Mai Chau
Set in a valley surrounded by mountains,
over the past decade this destination
four hours from Hanoi has become
commercialised. Yet fortunately it still
boasts the charm of the past that makes it
a destination of choice. The key? This is
backwater ethnic minority idyll. Perfect for
those who still glorify the, ummm, noble
savage. Yes, had to get a bit of Rousseau into
this one.
Inhabited by the stilt-house living Black
Thai, the majority of the accommodation is
shared, with guests sleeping in longhouses
attached to people’s homes. Add to this the
paddy fields, the isolated valley location,
the countryside walks and the time-has-
forgotten villages, you get why people like
to come here.
Mai Chau is not only a place you have to
visit, but it’s also a great stopping off point
for anyone wanting to head to the wild
northwest. And just four hours from Hanoi,
it’s a welcome break from the big city.
Getting There-o-meter: This is one you can

drive. The road to Hoa Binh is one of the
safer highways out there. Buses also do the
trip from Hanoi.
Accommodation Watch: Did we say

something about stilt houses?
Nam Cat Tien
PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

When it comes to jungle, Vietnam really
doesn’t quite get it right, especially when
you compare what’s on offer elsewhere in
Southeast Asia. However, Nam Cat Tien
remains the one stand-out. With a main base
around the park HQ — a number of chilled
homestays have sprung up next to the river in
the last couple of years — this is a place where
you can trek and genuinely see animals in the
wild. On our last trip we spotted douc langurs,
peacocks, lizards, gaurs and deer. It’s also a
good place to go cycling — Ta Lai Longhouse
has bikes for rent for the 12km track to the
main park area. And if you’re lucky, you might
even spot some elephant dung. We did, which
meant staying vigilant.
Oh, and don’t forget gibbon island, an
NGO-sponsored conservation project that
saves primates and other mammals, wherever
possible releasing them back into the wild. The
dedication of the staff here is remarkable.
Getting There-o-meter: You’re gonna need a

bus for this one, from Mien Dong Bus Station
in Saigon. It’s a three-hour ride. Motorbike —
we would recommend against it. These roads
are dangerous.
Accommodation Watch: We love Ta

Lai Longhouse. Communal sleeping
accommodation, communal eating, a great
lake for swimming and kayaking. But the
homestays near the park HQ are also worth
checking out.

PHOTO BY NICK ROSS
Quy Nhon
Imagine a coastal city like Danang, but beach, late-night outdoor drinking on plastic Phu Cat, serves flights from both Hanoi and
much smaller. Combine it with a city like stools, with the occasional five-star or four- Ho Chi Minh City. Then there’s the north-
Ho Chi Minh City, but with the atmosphere star hotel thrown in for good measure. south train. The only problem? Many of the
of the early 2000s, and then add in probably Add in the Cham temples — they Open-Tour buses stop here in the middle of
the best beaches in Vietnam and almost litter the area surrounding Quy Nhon — the night.
definitely the finest seafood (sorry Phu deserted beaches and Bai Xep to the south,
Quoc). This is Quy Nhon. a travellers’ haven that no-one knows Accommodation Watch: Here there’s the
Often passed over for Danang to the about, and this is an area definitely worth full gamut, although don’t expect Hyatt and
north and Nha Trang to the south, Quy exploring. We’ve done it twice and we’re InterCon-style five-stars. Not a chance. But
Nhon is Vietnam as it once was, without the still in love. for dormitory accommodation and beach-
razzmatazz, rooftop bars and bling. Instead, style four-star resorts, head to Bai Xep —
this is deckchairs on the promenade by the Getting There-o-meter: The local airport, you won’t regret it.
Kontum
Word has been to Kontum once. We spent
one day there and had a blast. The quite
phenomenal Tan Huong church, built
entirely of wood and adobe, the dragon
houses, the ethnic minority Bahnar who live
bang in the middle of town, the wedding
we ended up at, the karaoke we sang, the
drunken overnight journey back to Saigon
and all that rice wine drunk out of a shared
barrel with straws.
Yes, we had one of those unforgettable
experiences — this is a side to Vietnam you
will rarely see. It’s also the only city in the
Central Highlands — including Buon Me
Thuot, Gia Lai and Pleiku — that has any
cultural colour. Just 130km from Attapeu, the
closest town in Laos, it’s also the gateway to
the rest of Southeast Asia.
Getting There-o-meter: Did anyone say

overnight bus?
Accommodation Watch: Er, not a clue.

Didn’t stay there. But apparently you can
hitch up with the ethnic Bahnar. Now, that
would be interesting.

Con Dao PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS
Wild, wild, wild! That is the best way to where nature rules, not man. The National
describe this archipelago to the southeast of Park, night-time turtle hatching on Bay
mainland Vietnam. Formerly called Poulo Canh, great diving, stunning beaches, good
Condore when it was used by the French as seafood, and of course one of the best five-
the Indochinese version of Devil’s Island — stars in Vietnam, Six Senses Con Dao. Need
yes the old prisons are all still here — these we say more?
days it’s the Vietnamese army presence that
is noticeable. Getting There-o-meter: A ferry goes from
Not that this is a bad thing. With the army Vung Tau to Con Dao, but you’d be mad
and navy controlling huge swathes of the to go that way as there are now around six
land, it means the islands are protected, daily flights from Ho Chi Minh City. But to
protected from the encroachment of man, get around, make sure you hire a motorbike.
and protected from over-development. Worth every dong of the ride.
Word has been here twice and we love the
scenery — so much of it is untouched. We Accommodation Watch: Six Senses Con
also love the fishing ports, the weather — Dao. Six Senses Con Dao. Six Senses Con
here you can get four seasons within a day Dao. (there are also some well-appointed
— and the sense that this is a place guesthouses in the main town, Con Son).

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS
Chau Doc
The Mekong Delta has many destinations
worth checking out — Sa Dec, Ben Tre, Tra
Vinh, Ha Tien, My Tho — but for cultural
and geographic contrasts, the border town of
Chau Doc has to be the most interesting. Sat
at the confluence of three rivers, on one side
you have the mosques and kampong-style
villages of the Muslim Cham. On the other is
the main city, with its pagodas, markets and
obsession with fish (the canh chua ca or sweet
and sour broth with fish is exceptional).
Overlooking it all is Sam Mountain, home
to one of the great religious pilgrimages
of Vietnam. And surrounding the city are
paddy fields, canals, small lanes and rickety
bridges, perfect for a bit of cycling.
Head south and you pass through Khmer
villages with their Theravada pagodas and
sugar palms. And a few kilometres further
on you come to Tra Su bird sanctuary, a
twitcher’s paradise, especially when the
water is high. Imagine taking a canoe, in
Apocalypse Now-style silence through the
swamps, while all about you birds flap and
search for food. Surrounding you are vines,
strange mosses, mangrove trees with gnarled
roots, and odd flowers peaking out of the
gloom. That’s Tra Su.
Getting There-o-meter: A five-hour bus ride

from Saigon, the other more comfortable
option is by boat from My Tho. You may
have to take the Victoria Hotels boat service,
but it’s worth every penny as you get to see
the Mekong. Chau Doc is also the gateway to
Cambodia.
Accommodation Watch: Victoria Hotels has

two properties here. One in town on the
river, and another on Sam Mountain. There
are also a number of guesthouses right in
town.

PHOTOS BY QUANG NONG / WORD VIETNAM
Lang Son
Often described as the gateway to China,
this northwesterly city just four hours from
Hanoi has a long, battle-ridden history.
Today its glorious past is crowned by its
ancient, 16th-century citadel. Built during
the Mac Dynasty, only two walls remain and
while the North Gate was renovated in 2010,
the South Gate has been reclaimed by nature.
Surrounded by limestone karsts, and sat next
to Phai Loan Lake, for pure beauty and an
aura of ‘what once was’, this is a wonderful
place to visit for a couple of days.
Two caves — Tam Thanh and Nhi Thanh
— are part of the checking-it-out experience,
as is heading to the night market and trying
the roasted pork and the pho chua (sweet and
sour noodles). But more importantly, this
is a place that mixes Chinese culture with
Vietnamese, past with present, the Vietnam
of today with that of the past. Despite being
a border town, there’s much to commend
Lang Son, and only four hours from Hanoi,
it’s perfect for a weekend break.
Getting There-o-meter: The bus takes four

to five hours and there’s also a train route
— taking the train is part of the Lang Son
experience. To get around, try getting hold of
a motorbike. You’ll need it.
Accommodation Watch: There’s a Muong

Thanh hotel in town if you’re after a
Vietnamese four-star, beyond that you’re
looking at small guesthouses.

DALAT This enormous structure INTERCONTINENTAL suites, a contemporary lob- minibar. The Orient restau-
Travel
offers the most modern of HANOI WESTLAKE by, an excellent buffet, and a rant, serves the finest in in-
amenities, and with four 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) la carte restaurant, this Accor ternational and Vietnamese
ANA MANDARA VILLAS restaurants and two bars, 6270 8888 group property is prestigious cuisine.
$$$$ the events staff is well hanoi.intercontinental.com and close to the Old Quarter.
Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) equipped to handle any oc- This stunning property built JOSEPH’S HOTEL
3555888 casion. Close to the National over West Lake falls in be- SHERATON $$
anamandara-resort.com Convention Center, and a fa- tween a hotel and a resort. K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi,
vourite of the business trav- Beautiful views, great balco- Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 Tel: (04) 3938 1048
DALAT PALACE eller, Daewoo even boasts ny areas, comfortable, top- sheraton.com/hanoi josephshotel.com
$$$$ an outdoor driving range. end accommodation and all Surrounded by lush gar- Located next to the ca-
12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: Shortly to become a Marriot the mod-cons make up the dens, sweeping lawns and thedral, this popular well-
(063) 382 5444 property. mix here together with the tranquil courtyards, this appointed, airy and spa-
dalatpalace.vn resort’s three in-house res- peaceful property features cious boutique hotel mixes
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI taurants and the Sunset Bar, picturesque views of West comfort with a nice ambi-
6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) a watering hole located on a Lake and is less than 10 ence and great Western or
3831 3333 thoroughfare over the lake. minutes from downtown. Vietnamese breakfasts. All
fortuna.vn Great gym and health club. In addition to the luxurious the modern amenities at
This 350-room four-star set rooms, the hotel offers an reasonable prices.
DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL up in the heart of Hanoi’s fi- JW MARRIOTT HANOI outdoor swimming pool and
172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: nancial district has a variety 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu great relaxation and fitness MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA
(063) 382 7999 of rooms on offer, a “capital Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 facilities, including a tennis HOTEL
dalatgreencityhotel.com lounge” and three restau- 5588 court and spa. There are well $$$
Located in central Dalat, rants that serve Japanese, jwmarriotthanoi.com equipped conference rooms 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
this is the perfect place for Chinese and international From the expressive architec- and a newly refurbished Ex- Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
budget travellers. Quiet, cuisine. And like you’d ex- ture outside to the authentic ecutive Club Lounge. hanovahotel.com
newly refurbished with pect, there’s a fitness cen- signature JW Marriott servic- A minute from Hoan Kiem
beautiful mountain and city tre, night club and swimming es inside, this Marriott hotel SOFITEL LEGEND Lake, this glowing pearl in
views from the rooftop, fea- pool, too, and even a sepa- in Hanoi is the new definition METROPOLE HANOI the heart of Hanoi provides
tures free Wi-Fi, a TV and rate spa and treatment facil- of contemporary luxury. Lies 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, tranquility with an art gallery
snack bar in all rooms with ity for men and women. Set next door to the National Tel: (04) 3826 6919 and piano bar.
a downstairs coffee shop to the west of town, Fortuna Convention Centre. sofitel.com
and computers in the lobby often offers business deals The finest hotel of the French MAY DE VILLE
for guest use. on rooms and spaces to hold MAY DE VILLE OLD colonial period is probably 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung,
meetings, presentations and QUARTER still the finest in today’s Ha- Tel: (04) 2222 9988
celebrations. 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, noi. Anyone who is (or was) Set in the old French Quar-
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688 anyone has stayed at this el- ter a short walk from the
HOTEL DE L’OPERA maydeville.com egant oasis of charm, where Opera House, May de Ville
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: The largest four-star hotel the service is impeccable City Centre is a welcome
(04) 6282 5555 in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 and the luxurious facilities new addition to the capital.
contact@hoteldelopera.com rooms, a swimming pool, a complement the ambiance of Combining contemporary
Resting just a step away top floor terrace bar and a a bygone era. Definitely the architecture with traditional
from the Opera House, the location just a stone’s throw place to put the Comtessa up Vietnamese style and materi-
hotel mixes colonial archi- from Hoan Kiem Lake make for a night. als, this elegant property has
tectural accents and theatri- this a great choice for any- 81 well-appointed rooms in-
DALAT TRAIN VILLA cal interior design to create one wanting a bit of luxury in SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI cluding four suites.
Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: a contemporary space. The the heart of the action. 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh,
(063) 381 6365 first boutique five star in Tel: (04) 3823 8888 M M M
dalattrainvilla.com the heart of Hanoi, the lav- MELIA HANOI Boasting Hanoi’s best views
Located near the Dalat Train ish, uniquely designed 107 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake HANOI – BUDGET
Station, the Dalat Train Villa rooms and suites contain Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343 and the Red River, Sofitel
is a beautifully restored, co- all the mod cons and are meliahanoi.com Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys
lonial era, two-storey villa. complimented by two res- Excellently located in central above the city skyline. The HANOI BACKBACKER’S
In its grounds is a 1910 taurants, a bar and compli- Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws 5-star hotel features 317 HOSTEL
train carriage which has mentary Wi-Fi. plenty of business travellers luxurious, comfortable gues- 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
been renovated into a bar and is also a popular venue trooms with spectacular lake Tel: (04) 3828 5372
and cafe. Located within 10 HILTON GARDEN INN for conferences and wedding view or river view ranking in hanoibackpackershostel.com
minutes of most major at- HANOI receptions. State-of-the-art 7 types from Classic Room to Probably the cheapest, Eu-
tractions in Dalat. 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan rooms, elegant restaurants, Imperial Suite. ropean-style hostel in town,
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 stylish bars, fully equipped with bunk-style beds mixed
9396 fitness centre with sophisti- M M M or single-sex dorms starting
TRUNG CANG HOTEL hanoi.hgi.com cated service always make at VND150,000, plus a cou-
$ With 86 fully-equipped in-house guests satisfied. HANOI – MID-RANGE ple of double suites from
22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: guestrooms and suites, this VND250,000. A place to meet
(063) 382 2663 is the first Hilton Garden Inn MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI like-minded fold in the Old
property in Southeast Asia. 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan 6 ON SIXTEEN Quarter.
M M M Centrally located and a short Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
stroll from the historic Old moevenpick-hanoi.com sixonsixteen.com M M M
HANOI – Quarter, the hotel offers a full With its distinctive French Another boutique hotel to
INTERNATIONAL service restaurant, a stylish architecture and top end grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the HCMC –
bar, along with complimen- service, Mövenpick Hotel six rooms here mix contem- INTERNATIONAL
tary business and fitness Hanoi is aimed squarely at porary and fresh with handi-
CROWNE PLAZA WEST centres making it perfect for corporate travellers. An all- crafts and antique. Breakfast
INTERNATIONAL the international business or day restaurant and a lounge is included and in the long, CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$ leisure traveller. bar are available to satiate lounge restaurant on the $$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Com- their clientele while the ki- second floor, home-style Vi- 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
mune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: HILTON HANOI OPERA netic gym and wellness stu- etnamese fare is served up (08) 3823 4999
(04) 6270 6688 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, dio offer an excellent range with fresh fruit juices and caravellehotel.com
crowneplazawesthanoi.com Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500 of equipment. Massage and Lavazza coffee. Winner of Robb Report’s 2006
This premier five-star prop- hanoi.hilton.com sauna facilities are avail- list of the world’s top 100
erty lies beside the My Situated next to the iconic able for guests seeking to GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE luxury hotels, the Caravelle
Dinh National Stadium and Hanoi Opera House and a rejuvenate. Of the 154 well- HOTEL houses the popular rooftop
Convention Centre. Boasts short stroll from the Old appointed rooms and suites, $$$ Saigon Saigon bar, and the
two swimming pools, a spa, Quarter, this five-star hotel is 93 are non-smoking. 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan restaurants Nineteen and
and a fitness centre in its 24 a Hanoi landmark. With 269 Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 Reflections.
stories. fully-equipped rooms and PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL 6969
suites, there’s plenty for the $$$$ goldensilkhotel.com EQUATORIAL
DAEWOO HOTEL discerning business and lei- 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) Located in the centre of the $$$
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) sure traveller to choose from. 3733 0688 Old Quarter, this little slice of 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
3831 5555 pullman-hanoi.com heaven offers complimentary (08) 3839 7777
hanoi-daewoohotel.com With deluxe rooms and sundries and a replenishable equatorial.com/hcm

This massive property boasts (08) 3824 1234 own shopping hub (includ- 3827 4648
seven dining and entertain- saigon.park.hyatt.com ing a bank), fine dining, LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
ment outlets, a business Fabulous in style, prime in a sauna, health club, and $$$
centre, meeting rooms and location, everything one superb panoramic views of 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, M M M
a comprehensive fitness cen- would expect from the Hyatt. the cityscape. Also hosts Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926
tre and spa. The Equatorial The Square One and Italian- the largest Oktoberfest in lanlanhotel.com.vn HOI AN & DANANG
also has an on-site casino. themed Opera restaurants the region. PULLMAN DANANG BEACH
have garnered an excellent THE ALCOVE LIBRARY RESORT
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON reputation, as has the land- M M M HOTEL AN BANG BEACH RETREAT $$$$
$$$$$ scaped pool. $$$ An Bang Beach, Hoi An Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: HCMC – DELUXE 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, anbangbeachretreat.com Hanh Son, Danang
(08) 3925 7777 PULLMAN SAIGON Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966 Tel: (0511) 395 8888
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn CENTRE alcovehotel.com.vn CUA DAI pullman-danang.com
The five-star hotel and ser- $$$$$ CONTINENTAL $ Located on the stunning
viced apartment complex 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: $$$ M M M 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: white sands of Bac My An
offers: 14 instant offices, (08) 3838 8686 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (0510) 386 2231 Beach, the stylish Pullman
seven meeting rooms, a pullmanhotels.com (08) 3829 9201 HCMC – BUDGET hotelcuadai-hoian.com/ Danang Beach Resort is
600-capacity ballroom, spa, Recently completed on the continentalhotel.com.vn an oasis of activities and
outdoor swimming pool, a site of the old Metropole, this This charming old hotel has DANANG BEACH RESORT facilities for the modern
gym, 24-hour fine dining, upscale, contemporary prop- been fêted in literature and DUC VUONG HOTEL $$$ traveller. With an idyllic set-
24-hours room service, and erty boasts 306 signature in film. In the heart of Sai- $ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh ting, this luxury property is
limousine services. rooms combining design, gon, this is the first choice to 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 perfect for a family holiday
comfort and connectivity. highlight Vietnamese culture. 3920 6992 1800 or romantic beach getaway.
INTERCONTINENTAL Innovative cuisine, a great ducvuonghotel.com danangbeachresort.com.vn And with extensive function
ASIANA SAIGON downtown location and high- NORFOLK HOTEL Free Wi–Fi offered in every FURAMA RESORT AND facilities, Pullman Danang
$$$$$ tech meeting venues able to $$$ room. Low prices, friendly SPA also provides the a great lo-
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, host up to 600 guests make 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: staff, clean rooms. This mod- $$$$ cation for your next incentive
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 up the mix. (08) 3829 5368 ern oasis is only a few steps Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, getaway or event.
intercontinental.com/saigon norfolkhotel.com.vn from the backpacker’s area. Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS Intimate atmosphere and ex- (0511) 384 7888
City, resides the Asiana with 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: cellent service, this boutique DUNA HOTEL furamavietnam.com MERCURE DANANG
signature dining options, (08) 3744 4111 business hotel is located $ $$$
an innovative cocktail bar, riverside-apartments.com minutes from famous land- 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: HYATT REGENCY DANANG Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
exclusive spa and health Situated on the banks of the marks, designer shops, and (08) 3837 3699 RESORT AND SPA Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
club, together with luxury Saigon River, a 15-minute is renowned for its fabulous dunahotel.com $$$$ Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777
boutique arcade. scenic boat ride or 20-min- steaks at its in-house restau- Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da mercure-danang.com
ute bus ride from town, rant, Corso. HONG HOA HOTEL Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234 Set on the Han River, this
Riverside’s complementary $ danang.regency.hyatt.com well-appointed, Accor-
shuttle services take you NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, The Hyatt Regency Danang managed property is one of
right in the city centre. With $$$ Tel: (08) 3836 1915 Resort and Spa is beachfront the nicest hotels in Central
152 fully equipped serviced 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) honghoavn.com with a stunning view of the Danang. Kitsch but contem-
LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON apartments, the property 3822 4866 Marble Mountains. There porary design and some
$$$$ offers special packages for novotel-saigon-centre.com SINH HUONG HOTEL are 182 luxurious residences phenomenal views over
3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC short-term stay starting at Novotel Saigon Centre has $ and 27 private ocean villas, the city make up the mix.
Tel: (08) 6263 6688 VND2.1 million per apart- a contemporary feel, an 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) each with a private pool.
lemeridien.com/saigon ment per night for a one- international buffet — The
Marking the brand’s debut bedroom facility. Square — a rooftop bar, and
in Vietnam, Le Méridien Sai- a wellness centre including a
Joseph’s Hotel
gon is the gathering place for RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE swimming pool, gym, sauna
curious and creative-minded HOTEL SAIGON and spa.
travellers. Located in the $$$$
heart of Ho Chi Minh City 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, VILLA SONG SAIGON
next to the Saigon River, the Tel: (08) 3823 1117 $$$
property is close to the me-
tropolis's entertainment and
renaissance-saigon.com
This distinct French architec-
197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6090
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
commercial areas, making it tural wonder offers compli- villasong.com Next to the cathedral
an ideal base for exploring mentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup Deliberately located away
the local culture and com- or drop off, a first-floor ball- from the city centre in Thao
munity. Experience this cos- room, and authentic Viet- Dien, this riverside boutique
mopolitan city in stimulating namese cuisine at the River villa-style hotel is a sanctu-
surroundings. Restaurant. ary of peace and calm — a
rarity in Ho Chi Minh City.
SHERATON Beautiful, Indochine-influ-
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL $$$$$ enced design, a great set-
SAIGON 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) ting and good drinking and
$$$$ 3827 2828 dining options make this a
2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: sheraton.com/saigon great, non-city centre choice.
(08) 3823 3333 Sheraton boasts one of
legendsaigon.com the best locations in town, STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL
Immaculate architecture, with first–class facilities, an $$$
spacious rooms, and a fine open–air restaurant 23 floors 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
selection of fine dining, with above the city and a live mu- Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
buffets specialising in Ameri- sic venue on the same floor. starcitysaigon.vn
cana and Pan-Asian cuisine. The newly-built hotel is near
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA Tan Son Nhat International
NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ Airport. With spectacular
$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) city views and a comfortably-
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3824 1555 designed outdoor swimming
8888 sofitel.com pool, there is little reason not
saigon.newworldhotels.com This 20–story building in to choose this shining star.
Former guests include U.S. downtown Saigon, caters to
presidents — two Bushes, upscale business and leisure M M M
Clinton — and K-Pop sen- travelers seeking a classic yet Free wi-fi, international breakfast,
sation Bi Rain. An ongoing contemporary stay in Saigon. HCMC - MID-RANGE
event as well as a hotel, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,
New World is one of the best WINDSOR PLAZA multi-shower, friendly service
luxury stops in town. $$$ ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: $$
PARK HYATT (08) 3833 6688 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) www.josephshotel.com
$$$$$ windsorplazahotel.com 3822 5914 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: The full ensemble with its kimdohotel.com

NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY
Dragon Bridge Cham Charm

One of Danang's best known The Cham Museum in Danang is not just one of
attractions, at night it even breathes fire the best attractions in the city, it's one of the most
fascinating museums in the whole of Vietnam
M
y boss and I were discussing the Exciting and Unexciting Danang
upcoming holiday. China Beach is a 30km stretch of spotless
“I’m thinking of going to white sand, clear blue water, and waves big
Danang for the break,” I tell him. enough to set any surfer’s heart racing. It
“Danang? Why on earth would you want was at this beach where the war-happy air
to go there?” force captain in Apocalypse Now coaxed a
The boss’s reaction was fairly typical. couple of his men into going surfing. China
Most tourists tend to overlook Danang, Beach was where US soldiers were sent for
regarding it as a transit point rather than their R&R. This drew a legion of ladies of the
a holiday venue. That was exactly the way night to the area, intent on relieving the GIs
I had looked at it before my first visit. of as many of their dollars as possible. The
Getting off the northbound Reunification soldiers nicknamed the beach ‘The five and
Express there, I intended to spend the dime’. The GIs are long gone, but the pro
least possible amount of time in Central trade remains to this day.
Vietnam’s largest city before boarding a But, of course, times change, and nowhere
bus for nearby Hoi An. do they change so fast as in Vietnam. The
The next bus wasn’t for another hour, so By Don Wills ramshackle buildings and plywood bars
to fill in time I got in a taxi and said to the of China Beach’s war days have now been
driver “Take me somewhere interesting”. replaced by swish hotels, mega malls,
His first stop was China Beach, and it was ultra-modern condominiums and trendy
there and then that I decided to postpone restaurants.
my bus ride to Hoi An, and spend the next China Beach isn’t the only attraction
few days getting to know Danang instead. Danang has up its sleeve. The Marble
I’m a sucker for beaches. Mountains, 10km to the southeast, are a

ENTRY 3: Danang, Why?
Son Tra Peninsula

Design-wise, the InterContinental in
Danang is one of the most unusual resorts
in Vietnam
range of five rocky limestone outcrops on the right, by the way”. (Ah, the childish giant loops of the dragon’s tail constantly
jutting out to sea. The mountains are pleasures some people indulge in.) change colour, from yellow to blue to green
honeycombed with caves that have housed Some travellers have labelled Marble to turquoise. On Saturday and Sunday
Buddhist sanctuaries for hundreds of years Mountains ‘Vietnam’s most unexciting nights the dragon’s mouth breathes fire and
(many now pock-marked by bullet holes). attraction’. You can’t please everybody. water. It’s well worth a visit.
The most popular cave is Quan Am, with Another of Danang’s attractions is the So, the next time the subject of Danang
stalactites and stalagmites that some say military museum, strewn with the detritus comes up, don’t dismiss it out of hand as an
resemble figures of Buddha or mythical of war. You can join groups of school also-ran, not worth the time or money. It’s
creatures. Another, deservedly less popular children on guided tours and see the far more than that.
cave is Hell Cave. Entering this is like dramatic collection of captured American Born in New Zealand, Don Wills doesn’t live
entering one of those ghost houses you tanks, fighter jets and helicopters. in Danang, but he does live in Southeast Asia.
get in second-rate fairgrounds back home. And another item of interest; Dragon He’s been writing his way round the region for
Flickering lights and skeletons with winking Bridge. Spanning the Han River, the three decades
red eyes are intended to scare the pants off
you, but fail miserably.
At the foot of Marble Mountains are
scores of impressive carved marble figures
from Buddhist folklore. There are also “Some travellers have labelled Marble
some more modern sculptures, including
garden gnomes, fountains, and one of
Mountains ‘Vietnam’s most unexciting
Michelangelo’s David. You will of course
have the obligatory photo taken of yourself
attraction’. You can’t please everybody”
standing beside David, and subsequently
tell everyone you show it to “I’m the one

THE NAM HAI
M M M The upmarket Tatler maga- joescafemuine.com 5135
Travel
$$$$ zine voted top hotel of 2006. A leafy, seafront bungalow phong-nha-cave.com
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Vil- The location is stunning, on a resort and café with nightly The first western-run farm-
lage, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) NHA TRANG bay accessible only by boat. live music all in one. Remi- stay in Phong Nha, this well-
394 0000 niscent of the type of places appointed travellers’ joint
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mering East Sea. Traditional budget place is all about draught beer, and speciality- beauty salon and jacuzzi. rental, boat trips and tours
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passes the resort’s contem- jungle and nature. one of a kind destination. M M M rates during rainy season.
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BANYAN TREE LANG CO Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
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PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

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THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES
PART 13: BOLLYWOOD, COLOURS AND CHOCOLATE-COVERED PAAN...
On the back of his bike, Nemo, Matt

covers wild distances across India
DAY 229 good if I didn’t get stranded here in the dark. Surprisingly unobtrusive (I don’t hang
West Bengal By evening, Patna, the state capital. The around long enough to find otherwise)
Staying with a tea estate family, nice house, city feels like a mess. “Inviting” is likely not sadhus all around. Raja-types lounging
with a biogas stove, fresh milk from cows the word I’d use. behind big, cloth umbrellas. A fit, young
outside and they have more servants than I I’m staying with the only foreign expat dude pushing a charred human corpse with
can count. in town. And I’m right in time, he just a stick, deeper into the fire. Cows shitting all
installed wooden security braces to bar his around.
DAY 231 doors from intruders. But he’s not afraid “Hello, boat sir?” is the ever-present echo.
Covering the Distance of thugs, he’s been tipped off that cops are A smell of incense, a smell of piss. Statues of
On good roads, I’ve covered on average headed to visit him for a little dose of their Hanuman, murals of Shiva and others. And
about 350km in a day. But I haven’t had many daily ‘extortion’, everyday business here families bathing. Why are they all so darn
good roads lately. On bad roads, trials, paths, apparently. fat? They don’t even eat beef here. One old
swamps and rivers, maybe 150km, or way less. lady’s boob spills out from under her sari,
Today, I did 500km. I’m driving through DAY 233 another yells at her to cover up.
Bihar, infamous for most bad things you ever Varanasi And the ‘massage-guy’ trap; a “friendly”
hear of India on the news. Seems like people Benares. It’s all of India condensed handshake, enough to lock you into a
commonly carry rifles with them here and into one riverside. Fat guy in speedos suspiciously cheap 10-rupee massage. And
although it seems peaceful enough, it’d be whacking laundry on a rock in filthy water. this city feels so darn old. Mark Twain once

said Varanasi was “older than history…” inside. And at the least I know that I won’t DAY 242
Guess I’m not selling it very well, to be tempted to sleep in. First light of morning Zangoora.
someone who doesn’t already ‘understand’ and I’m gone. It’s a Bollywood Disneyland. What a treat!
Vanarasi. Whatever, I feel happy here. A live-action Indian fantasy happening
DAY 239 right in front of me. Crowds dancing, video
DAY 235 The Taj projections all around, awesome costumes,
No-Luck-Now I’ve seen the Pyramids, the Great Wall, the wicked witches flying overhead next to
Drove 400km to Lucknow and eight Eiffel Tower and so on, but none has ever princesses in swan boats dropping flower
guesthouses in a row give me the same made an impression on me as much as the petals into the audience. And naturally, a
answer: “Full.” ... but there’s nobody here. Taj Mahal. And eight years since my first cocky prince who dumps his awesome ex-
Ugh. visit, I hesitate to go again. What if I don’t girlfriend for a bimbo princess, “cause that
Dark night. I’m drained and one place feel the same this time? Will it dispel the was their fate.” Ah, poor girl, come to me,
finally takes pity on me, lets me in. And it’s magic? I’ll comfort you. But whatever, in the end
a dungeon. Used condoms in the corner and But despite terrible food poisoning, I drag everybody and their mothers are all happy
I think they bled out a pig from the window, myself up by 5am, pay the exorbitant, racist and dancing wildly to Jai Ho.
don’t dare to guess what else those red fee and make my way to the gates. And just For more on Matt’s films and travels, check
streaks on the walls could be. I hope I don’t like the first time, this place simply makes out the Etherium Sky production blog at www.
need to use the toilet, I don’t even dare peek me smile. EtheriumSky.com/ProdBlog

Hanoi
Day Tripper: Hanoi / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / The Therapist / Top Eats / Medical Buff
Photo by Julie Vola

Hanoi
ALTERNATIVE HEALTH BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP HANOI OIS THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
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BODYWORKER bbgv.org L’ESPACE This shop’s motto “Western
gkaren@a-roamingbody-
worker.com
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for all things relating to the
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE
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living in the capital. Puts on
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(04) 3936 2151 With new styles arriving in GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
AIRLINES
store every second day, this 8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
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ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE EVENT SPACE dresses, shirts, pants, skirts from the artisans who made
32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, and accessories in local and them, Betterworld stocks
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BUSINESS GROUPS 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh measure service are avail-
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AMCHAM L’ATELIER 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
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1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) THEATRE GROUP (04) 3718 6758 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan VIETJETAIR
3934 2790 hitshanoi.com ateliervietnam.com Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 vietjetair.com
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4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) fers both ready-to-wear and ing handmade quilts and
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several locations around Tel: (04) 3928 5190 Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) HOSPITALS
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PISTS
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15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh tions, workshops and a wide 3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) foot related problems. The Manor,
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IBIKE promotes emerging artists BUMRUNGRAD My Dinh, Tu Liem
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DAY TRIPPER: HANOI SOC SON
Jesse Meadows makes a pilgrimage to a pagoda and statue

to the northwest of Hanoi
T
he hero of what was described Nhat Tan Bridge towards the airport, turned times, with some farmers on the side of
to me as “a Vietnamese bedtime right onto QL2A, and then left onto QL3 the road who thought we were hilarious, a
story”, Thanh Giong, is revered into the town of Soc Son. At this point, it got couple of women who made us coffee at a
for crushing invaders from the a bit messy. There were quite a few peaks roadside stand across from a military base
back of a steel horse with giant sticks of dotted around the village, so I took us in the in the middle of active target practice, and
yellow bamboo. When he had successfully direction of one; after a few instances of “I a construction worker who barely wanted
defeated his adversaries, he rode off into don’t know where this goes, let’s find out”, to give us the time of day. We finally pulled
heaven from the top of Soc Son Mountain, we emerged on a road in the middle of a lake. up at an ornate archway that led up the
now the site of a pagoda and monument Very lost, we stopped to take some mountain, and parked at a large pagoda
in his honour, about 30km northwest of photos, and a group of teenagers pulled up complex at the top of the road.
Hanoi. requesting selfies. We obliged, and in return,
I decided I needed to make a pilgrimage asked for directions. James pulled up his Thanh Giong
to this monument with my friend James, sleeve to show them his tattoo. “O dau?” we Inside, we found an enormous Buddha
who had recently been gifted a tattoo of asked, “Where?” pointing at the image of statue, towers of Choco-Pies at his feet in
Thanh Giong on his left bicep by a talented Thanh Giong. They laughed and gestured offering. Stairs behind the pagoda led up the
Hanoian artist. towards a mountain across the lake. mountain; as we climbed into the forest, they
To get there from Tay Ho, we took the We repeated this scenario several more rose up in front of us at a steep incline. “It’s

the stairway to heaven!” James exclaimed, A quick jaunt up the road to the right because it’s likely you won’t be able to turn
convinced we were on the right path to took us to the highest point of the mountain, around for a long, long time. And in our case,
Thanh Giong. It took us about half an hour where a massive bronze statue of our saint you might get a flat tyre on an expressway
with our smokers’ lungs, but at least the air on horseback stood, leaping toward heaven. with no exit, and have to push your bike for
we were panting was fresh (sometimes, in Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our several kilometres to find a way out. Lesson
the city, it’s easy to forget what trees smell side, and the fog covered what I’m sure is learnt; when in doubt, just follow the signs
like). a stunning view. With the sun sinking, we back to Hanoi.
When we reached the top, I was expecting picked our way carefully down the stairs
pay-off. What we found was pavement. again, the faint sound of chants drifting
Pro-tip: If you don’t fancy a gruelling hike towards us through the trees. A procession
up thousands of stairs, it is possible to drive was underway; all the women of the Getting There
up the road to Thanh Giong’s monument. monastery were slowly circling the Buddha,
(But it’s definitely not as rewarding). There’s singing between the rhythmic tones of a From West Lake, head towards the airport
also a place where the stairs split; the steep giant gong. across the Nhat Tan Bridge. Take a right
way straight ahead leads to the road, and the On the way home, we made a rookie when the road splits, onto QL2A, then a
less intense path to the right leads directly to mistake and ended up on a highway going left onto QL3. Drive through Soc Son Town,
Thanh Giong. east. Choose your on-ramps carefully, take a left on Duong Len Den Giong.

Hanoi
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PHOTO BY JESSE MEADOWS

Hanoi
BARS, CLUBS & EDEN HANOI MADAKE SIDEWALK HANOI THE UNICORN BAR
BEER CLUBS OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE BAR & EVENT SPACE DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE
End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho 2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel:
facebook.com/edengargen (04) 6276 6665 facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi 0904 886266
+84 BAR When it comes to outdoor facebook.com/madakehanoi A bar and grill with an ec- The latest offering of well-
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facebook.com/bar84hanoi this place difficult to beat, tus pond, this bar is famed live music add to the great fers up a lounge space, a
On the Town
Housed in a colonial build- with well over a 1,000 revel- for it’s many weekday and ambience. Check out their small bar area and an attrac-
ing, bare brick, comfortable lers packing in at the week- weekend events, its ambient grill fare. Tasty. tive seating space out front.
sofa-like seating and grungy ends. Check out their Face- Asian-style décor, DJ nights Now, as for the cocktails…
decor related to a past make book page for the party list. and general atmosphere. A
up the mix at this venue put popular West Lake go-to joint. SPY BAR
together by the people be- HOLE IN THE WALL TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL
hind Barbetta. ETE BAR 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan SPORTS BAR/GRILL
FRENCH LOUNGE MAO’S RED LOUNGE Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR A cheap, cheerful and wel- (04) 6675 9838
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CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR A favourite among those (04) 3926 3104 hole popular with expats and A miniscule sports bar on
88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: who roam further west of There’s only one Mao and anyone looking for some the main drag of Xuan Dieu
(04) 3718 8029 the city centre, this multi- there’s only one red lounge. good conversation. Cheap is perpetually crowded with
88group.vn storey restobar has been go- This late-night bar has been beers, oodles of Jameson’s regulars drinking out front on
A wine bar with a difference, ing strong for more than two going for years, and despite and often open late. Oh, and plastic stools. Notorious for
this mainstay on the water- years. It has balconies, mez- its Old Quarter dive status, check out the Danish hotdog its burgers, cooked fresh to
ing hole scene in West Lake zanine seating and a long bar it still packs in the drinkers. stand out front. To die for. order, Tracy’s is also famous
mixes contemporary design, guarding exactly 50 different for their draft beers, claim-
black ceilings, subtle lighting cocktails. For many the Ete ing to serve the coldest draft
and an international aesthet- burger is right on the mark PHUC TAN TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR beer in Hanoi.
ic with one of the best wine as are the sandwiches, tar- LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR AND CAFE
lists in town. Not surprisingly tines and salads. It’s always 51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE
it is developing a faithful cli- crowded — especially during Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem VUVUZELA
entele. Well worth a visit. the weekends. Amiable staff, Now located on the river tadioto.com MODERN BEER HALL
pleasant vibes. in between Long Bien and Located close to the Opera 2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba
Chuong Duong Bridges, this House, this alternative, arty Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922
ANGELINA late night, DJ bar is notorious bar is garnished in red and vuvuzela.com.vn
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN FATCAT BAR for… well, being Phuc Tan. white on the outside, with When Vuvuzela opened up,
Sofitel Metopole Legend Ho- DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT Almost every Hanoi-based warm brown and tones of mixing the Hooters concept
tel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: reveler has ended up here blue on the inside. Creat- from the US with a beer hall,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919 0986 495211 at some point. It’s just one ing an atmosphere merging drinking food and a DJ booth,
Top-end bar and Italian res- linkhanoi.com of those places. Shanghai and San Francisco, it created the start of a new
taurant all in one. Five star A small establishment from engaging contemporary art- scene — beer clubs. The origi-
prices, but has an atmos- the minds behind the party work lines the walls at the nal Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh
phere to match and a great and event organisers, LinkH- POLITE PUB latest incarnation of this well- Tong is still going strong, but
cocktail selection. The kind anoi. The bar has tables fill- LONG BAR known and well-loved space. it’s so popular that it’s best to
of place you’ll order a wagyu ing the first floor and spilling 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: book your table in advance.
and eat it at the bar. onto the sidewalk as well as (04) 3825 0959 For a full list of Hanoi loca-
a small loft area for lounging. 5pm to 2am THE NEST tions, check their website.
Probably the closest thing VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB
BACKYARD BIA HOI Hanoi has to an authentic Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay CAFES
UPMARKET BIA HOI HANOI ROCK CITY English-style pub, Polite is Ho, Tel: 0947 890333
15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho LIVE MUSIC VENUE frequented by a steady mix facebook.com/Nest.
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tion, this outdoor, hideaway, Tel: 01633 166170 solace in the nightly conver- The West Lake location sug- DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE
garden-based bia hoi is every facebook.com/hrc.hanoi sations at the long bar, pool gests that this is the kind of Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu,
bit as attractive (and popu- Has a downstairs, English- and live football matches. bar that will attract expats. Tay Ho
lar) as its café peers in the style pub garden area and It does. But thanks to the A trendy, deli-style café con-
West Lake area. A Vietnam- an upstairs space dedicated Vietnamese atmosphere, nected to Annam Gourmet
ese-style food menu and to live music and live pro- RED RIVER TEA ROOM there’s a nice mix of local next door. Bright and fresh
regular live music make up duction. Weekly live events LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE and foreign over the three décor is complemented by
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BARBETTA coming. Located on the lakeside eye-catching, too. eye-catching temptation for
ARTSY BAR & CAFE
lane just below Xuan Dieu, weary shoppers.
34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, this warm, quiet and friendly
Tel: (04) 3734 9134 HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS pub offers a selection of in- THE REPUBLIC
Set in a colonial villa, when CZECH MICROBREWERY ternational and local beers, MODERN SPORTS BAR CIAO CAFÉ
it comes to design, the funky 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, wine, cocktails and a nice 7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: RESTO LOUNGE
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Cart, Vietnamese food from
for coffee, beer or even a bar and eatery showing shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
LE SOLEIL Dieu’s next door, or delivery
bite to eat. live sport and boasting a this Saigonese franchise of-
DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT from nearby favourites. Un-
convivial atmosphere. Has fers a variety of different
284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: pretentious, dog-friendly.
a creative comfort food western dishes at reasonable
0915 663993
CAMA ATK menu, excellent breakfasts, prices. Loaded with booths
MUSIC & ARTS BAR
facebook.com/lesoleil- daily specials and a popular and a steady, young Viet-
73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, paoloandchi ROCKSTORE second-floor outdoor terrace. namese crowd, the estab-
Tel: 01262 054970 Open late, Le Soleil has be- LIVE MUSIC BAR
lishment is a great place to
cama-atk.com come a place to be seen, 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: squash a sandwich or bowl
With well-poured drinks, especially if you’re the danc- 01653 336087 THE ROOFTOP of pasta and people watch.
a foosball table, no smoking-into-the-early hours kind facebook.com/Rockstore- SKYLINE LOUNGE They also do coffee.
ing and a midnight closing of person. Sofas, bar stools, Hanoi 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B
time, CAMA ATK knows ex- menus on blackboards and Hanoi's home-made, home- Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
actly what it wants to be neon-coloured lighting, grown version of Hard Rock Tel: (04) 3946 1901 COFFEE BEAN
— and that’s refreshing. The there’s a grunge-style feel to Cafe without the stigma and therooftop.vn AND TEA LEAF
space is a part time venue the place, but it’s an ambi- the expensive prices. Nightly The first up-on-high bar and INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE
for smaller acts and DJs. The ence that Le Soleil’s custom- live music or DJing events are restaurant in the capital and 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho,
venue is hip, comfortable ers seem to love. Has a pizza coupled with creative decor, a still a leader in its field. With Tel: (04) 3715 4240
and will likely provide the joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs. selection of Belgian Beer and DJs spinning EDM and great coffeebean.com
serious drinker with a reli- a food menu. Check their Fa- views of the city, this is a This American-style chain
able place to pull up a stool cebook page for details. must for a more Vietnamese, cafe is a multilevel, indoor/
and take pulls in a relaxed top-shelf experience. outdoor café overlooking
haven. Westlake. With its LA coffee
BAR STOOL TADIOTO
PHOTO BY FUJI PHAM
T
he best bars in any town are come in many guises from artists and VND50,000. If you’re looking to
defined by character. Tadioto has journalists to architects and diplomats. experiment with the whisky collection
character to get your creative They’re a different clientele. “We’re not a then a glass of blended Scotch, neat, is a
cogs turning. Situated just east of rowdy bar — people come to exchange ideas. reasonable VND100,000 or if you prefer
Hoan Kiem Lake, it’s the perfect setting People sit and talk a lot here,” says Duc. a single malt, a glass of a well known
for a small group to share ideas or to Something for creative lovers to mark 10-year-old comes in at VND150,000.
catch up with old friends over a glass of on their map, weekly live jazz has recently There are also some lesser-seen brands
whisky. Just look out for the large red become a fixture, and if this plus the that include Japanese whisky, with shots
gates on the corner of Tong Dan and Ly venue’s artistic design wasn’t enough, starting at VND130,000.
Dao Thanh. they’ll soon be running Sunday discussion Vodkas, gins and rum range in the same
Owner Nguyen Qui Duc, former groups on topics such as art, music and area of price depending on quality, and
journalist and a creative survivor of literature, and airing the occasional film if you’re more prone to a glass of wine, a
Hanoi’s bar scene, has modelled a unique screening. bottle of mid-range red or white averages
and original atmosphere characterised by Tadioto isn’t so much concerned with around VND450,000.
a dim, metallic décor balanced with edgy complicated cocktails and fancy delicacies. What makes Tadioto stand out is
lighting — the lamps around Tadioto’s The daytime food menu is refreshingly the type of people who frequent it. It’s
tables were hand-crafted by Duc himself simple while the bar is stocked with a certainly a place to go if you’re looking to
using recycled motorbike parts and other diverse selection of the usual suspects meet interesting people from backgrounds
treasures. alongside an impressive collection of single too diverse to list here — as Duc says:
malts and a growing presence of bourbon. “Any one night it’s just what table you sit
Ramping it Up That said, it’s not to be taken as a whisky bar. at”. — Billy Gray
Tadioto’s character isn’t just built by the A bottled beer will set you back Tadioto is located at 24B Tong Dan, Hoan
décor; the people that keep the seats warm VND40,000 while a draught costs Kiem, Hanoi and stays open until late

Hanoi
and office feel, when you Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, and pan-Asian mains. quirky, it’s endearing use of CHOPS
walk in you might just forget Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, recycled furniture — antiques GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER
that you’re in Hanoi. 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem and colourful artwork create 4 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
highlandscoffee.com.vn PUKU a vibrant atmosphere — 6292 1044
With numerous locations INTERNATIONAL / CAFE make for a popular hangout. chopsvietnam.com
CONG CAPHE around town, what originally 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Open 24 hours. Finally Hanoi has a dedicated
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE started as a fourth-floor joint Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 gourmet burger joint, and
152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba overlooking the lake has This spacious spot on Food this West Lake eatery with its
On the Town
Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba become one of the most Street is open around the ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE fan-cooled atmosphere get it
Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; popular, home-grown cafes clock, offering Aussie-inspired VEGETARIAN / VEGAN just about right. This is com-
15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A in Vietnam. comfort food along with more 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, fort food at its finest. Served
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho eclectic Irish nachos, cottage Tel: 0904 356561 up with locally brewed craft
congcaphe.com pies and pan-Asian fare. Up- zenithyogavietnam.com beer, and this one’s a bit of
With a kitsch, communist- JOMA stairs is fit for social gather- A vegetarian and vegan cafe a winner.
driven theme saturating this COFFEE/BAKERY ings and live music while the respecting the philosophy of
quaint cafe, most patrons 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, no-smoking downstairs space yoga — simple living, mindful
are young Vietnamese bo- Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To is filled with people working thinking. Using 100 percent COUSINS
hemians and artsy expats. Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) and socialising. Serves as natural ingredients, the cui- CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
Sip on a blended cup of joe 3718 6071 community centre, especially sine has no additional addi- 3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho,
with beans from the Central joma.biz late at night. tives or MSG and is cooked Tel: 01238 670098
Highlands, knock back one of Popular café with a con- using the minimal amount facebook.com/cousins.hanoi
the many different types of temporary western feel to of oil. The stress is instead A contemporary, French-
tea available or sip on fresh- the counter-style service SAINT HONORE on eating whole food in its influenced restaurant sell-
ly squeezed juice from the and atmosphere. The food CAFE / BOULANGERIE natural state. ing international cuisine
Spartan cups in one of the is all there, too: breakfasts, 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, at reasonable prices in a
hippest café chains in town. salads, soups, ice cream, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 EAT spacious, airy atmosphere.
muffins, cakes, cereals and This cafe and French-style Blackboards, whitewashed,
bagels. Starting in Laos in boulangerie is best visited bare-brick walls, period tiles,
D’ALICE 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in the morning when that AL FRESCO’S a well-chosen wine list and an
BOUTIQUE CAFE in 2009. Joma contributes 2 Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL outdoor terrace overlooking
89 Trieu Viet Vuong, percent of each sale to chari- aroma hits you as you walk 24 Quang An, Tay Ho, the lake make up the formula.
Hai Ba Trung table organisations. through the door. The down- Tel: (04) 3938 1155
Put together coffee and cake stairs space is split into the alfrescogroup.com
and you get one of those bakery on one side with a DA PAOLO
timeless combinations. And KINH DO small non-smoking dining CLASSIC ITALIAN
if you really want to binge on PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE space on the other. The up- AMATO 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai
the cake-end, then check out 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, stairs lounge area has stand- TAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE Mai, Tay Ho,
d’Alice and its quirky interior. Tel: (04) 3825 0216 ard tables as well as sofa 1A Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: (04) 3718 6317
Perfect for that more modern One of the longest-running seating. Simple but tasty 01227 367470 This airy, contemporary look-
combination of sweet tooth cafes in town, this hole-in- French and international Located next to Binh Minh ing Italian restaurant next to
and iThingy. the-wall, no frills café-cum- fare is served at meal times. Jazz Club, Amato is a fusion the famed lawn chair and
restaurant home-makes its tapas bar by night and a coconut café on West Lake
patisseries and is renowned French restaurant during the has all the right ingredients
DUY TRI for its excellent yoghurt. TET DÉCOR CAFÉ day. Tiny, hip and yet surpris- to become a classic. Run by
VIETNAMESE CAFÉ
ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR ingly spacious, Amato offers the long time former man-
43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, an international dining and ager of Luna D’Autunno, it
The longest-running café in MANZI ARTSPACE Tay Ho drinking experience in the features scrumptious wood-
the capital, this 1936-estab- ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY tet-lifestyle-collection.com heart of Hanoi. fired oven pizzas from
14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Cloistered among the back VND120,000 and other Italian
lished, three-floored space is
Tel: (04) 3716 3397 streets of West Lake and delicacies. Open every day
simplicity at its finest. Even
the coffee here sticks to its
facebook.com/manzihanoi sheltered from the noise of for lunch and dinner, deliv-
A stunningly designed con- Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is ery is also available.
roots — it’s made using the temporary café and events a destination for those who
same blend of Arabica and space that screams out the appreciate life’s pleasures:
Robusta cooked up by its words ‘modern art’. Housed in coffee, food, art and music. AU LAC DO BRAZIL
founders. Unpretentious, en- DALUVA
a converted colonial-era villa, a Simple and unpretentious, BRAZILIAN
dearing and old-fashioned. continuous flow of exhibitions, the café has an old-fash- 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
talks, experimental music and ioned warmth and rustic feel Tel: (04) 3845 5224
Tel: (04) 3718 5831
game shows make up the mix combined with unique and aulacdobrazil.com daluva.com
HANOI COOKING here. Great cuisine, too. inspiring art installations. A Brazilian churrascaria
CENTRE CAFÉ A popular hang-out for ex-
offering all-you-can-eat
COURTYARD CAFE pats and trendy Vietnamese
grilled meat and seafood on
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh in the Xuan Dieu area on
MAISON DE TET DÉCOR THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB the skewer. In typical Brazil-
Relax in a leafy courtyard, air- West Lake. This bar and res-
LIFESTYLE CAFE CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY ian rodízio fashion, waiters
con dining room or under a taurant offers casual dining
36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, bring cuts of meat to the
covered roof terrace with a with a classy, Middle-Eastern
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722 Tel: (04) 3938 2117 table for patrons to pick and
Vietnamese ca phe, Italian tet-lifestyle-collection.com facebook.com/thehanoiso- choose, all for a set price.
twist, as well as wine, tapas,
coffee, beer, wine or freshly On-site coffee roasting, cialclub They also offer wine pair-
events and attractive décor.
squeezed juice. Order from a comfortable seating arrange- A cozy midsize café/restau- ings, a salad bar and an a la
seasonally changing menu or ments, rustic style furnish- rant where you can forget carte menu, with a creative
try one of the all-day breakfast ings and décor, and a focus the heat and bustle of Hanoi. selection of fruit caipirinhas.
DON’S TAY HO
specials for VND110,000, in- CONTEMPORARY NORTH
on healthy, non-processed The atmosphere is relaxed
cluding juice and coffee or tea. AMERICAN
foods. This is the concept and here you can imagine,
behind Maison de Tet Décor, for a second, that you’re 16 Quang An, Tay Ho,
and it’s a popular one, too, sitting in a European café. ASAHI SUSHI Tel: (04) 3719 3719
HANOI HOUSE as witnessed by the size of The ood is fresh and inter- SUSHI RESTAURANT
Dons-bistro.com
HIDEAWAY CAFE the clientele. Also run occa- nationally inspired, and has 288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, This lake-facing venue with
2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, sional farmers’ markets. an excellent top-floor terrace. Tel: (04) 3974 5945 its top floor Oyster Bar is the
Hoan Kiem asahisushi.vn work of charismatic Canadian
Set in a colonial-era build- restaurateur and wine con-
ing with equally colonial- MOC CAFE YOLO noisseur Donald Berger. Fo-
era styled furnishings, this CAFE / INTERNATIONAL FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE CAFÉ 129 cusing on comfort food done
hidden away family house 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. 32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD well, the main restaurant
café is one of those gems (04) 3825 6334 facebook.com/YoloCoffee- 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, menu includes anything from
synonymous with Hanoi. Set in a slightly run down Shops Tel: (04) 3821 5342 wood-grilled rare tuna steak
Quiet, intimate and simple, colonial villa, the faded but Boasting an abundance of Long-running, slightly in- with fragrant Chinese black
the staff will treat you like charmingly run down French- communal seating, funky de- congruous hole-in-the-wall bean beurre noir to gourmet
you’re a guest in their home. styled retro interior, good cor and a full roster of regu- café and restaurant that pizza and pasta dishes Excel-
WiFi and some of the best lar live music performances, has served up up a Western lent range of imported oys-
coffee in town makes this this rollicking café-slash-bar menu since the late 1990s. ters, great breakfasts and an
HIGHLANDS COFFEE a great spot to while away has quickly earned a place in Check out their and their ex- extensive wine list.
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN a couple of hours. The food the hearts of Hanoi’s young cellent breakfasts, all scoffed
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan menu mixes Vietnamese fare and trendy. Fun, unpreten- down in a traditional, Viet-
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; with sandwiches, western tious and unashamedly namese environment.

COFFEE CUP GARDENISTA CAFE
PHOTOS BY FUJI PHAM
C
hoosing between the matcha latte without some green. Dozens of hanging more charming, illuminated by lights
and spicy mango tea is a tough plants line the fully windowed front wall, strung between the trees. While the allure of
call, but it’s not the most difficult which looks out onto a sizable outdoor patio Gardenista is its escape from the hustle and
decision you’ll face at Gardenista and bar. The staff takes turns caring for their bustle of city life, it’s also practical where it
Cafe. Rather, it’s deciding which neediest patrons, carefully spritzing them counts. All the concrete tree planters on the
Instagram filter to slap on that photo of with water in between orders. outdoor patio have electrical outlets.
an old-fashioned bathtub — brimming The concrete walls and floor give it an The menu boasts a large selection of
with plants — that has been outfitted with urban basement feel, but the presence of reasonably priced drinks, including both
wooden planks and repurposed into a so many wooden decorations and plants Western and Vietnamese coffees, hot
table. brings it back to earth. At 1pm on a weekday, chocolate, fruit lassis, fresh juices and
The quirky greenhouse-inspired cafe half of the café is filled with groups of smoothies. It offers standard fast-food fare
in Ba Dinh District is one of the most friends quietly chatting, and the other and, for those with a sweet tooth, ice cream
photogenic cafés that Hanoi has to offer. Its half is sporting headphones and plugging and a few varieties of cake. The cappuccino
interior is filled with cutesy decorations that away on laptops. Judging by the many (VND46,000) was smooth and frothy, and
seem to suggest someone just discovered Instagram photos tagged at Gardenista, it came with a soft cookie that was perfect
Pinterest’s DIY section and went wild. Beer- is also popular among Vietnamese fashion for dunking. I also tried a slice of chocolate
bottle chandeliers and pinecone mobiles bloggers. Kahlua cake (VND34,000), which had a
dangle above patrons’ heads. Wooden chairs, light and airy flavour and texture, similar to
haphazardly painted with strips of blue Indoor Peace, Outdoor Charm mousse. The chocolate garnish on top was a
and green, look like they were lifted from The café is in a gated area, but for those nice touch.
some hip farmer’s tool shed. A polished seeking complete peace and quiet away It’s easy to get lost in the green, serene
dining table holds miniature terrariums, from the busy Kim Ma Street, grabbing an atmosphere of Gardenista. Whether you’re
potted plants and knickknacks, like a Totoro indoor table is essential. All orders must alone or with company, it’s the perfect
figurine tugging a cart with a tiny succulent be placed at the outdoor bar, which slows café for writing, lounging or making your
inside. down the flow of service, but it’s not a deal Instagram followers jealous. — Emily Petsko
And, of course, it wouldn’t be a garden breaker. At night, the outdoor patio becomes Gardenista is at 50 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

THE THERAPIST AFTER THE AFFAIR BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA
Dear Douglas, extremely difficult situations where trust is the intensity of that anger and the behaviour
I read the recent letter to you from a broken, where anger becomes intense and influenced by that anger is her problem and
woman who has been cheated on by her where the imagination becomes influenced it is not helpful to tolerate it.
husband. I am a man who has also cheated by fear and mistrust. Your example is one It is not unusual for someone who is
on my wife and children, putting our where the process of healing can become feeling guilt or shame to feel “helpless”
family at risk of breaking up. I felt your stuck and therefore frustratingly painful for or unable to defend themselves against
advice was quite good, but it is now 10 a long period of time. intrusive or abusive behaviour. Humility
months since my infidelity was revealed Sometimes people (in this case your is the condition where we accept
and it does not feel like we have made any wife) believe that if they just know the responsibility for what we have done, we
progress toward reconciliation. entire truth in all its details they will be apologize and we try to make amends.
Just last week my wife went into a rage able to trust again. It is a false belief. Going It is empowering and allows us to move
accusing me of continuing to lie and hide into the details of what you have done will on. Humiliation is a condition where
things from her. She checks my phone not help your wife come to a resolution. we internalize our shame and accept
constantly and suspects anything that She will have to let go (or reduce the abuse, feeling we deserve it. It is a place
doesn’t seem clear to her. She continues influence) of the past in order for the two of of disempowerment, weakness and
threatening to divorce me. I have done you to move on. stuck-ness.
all I can think of to make amends. I have In the beginning of this process it was Your wife cannot stop her abuse on
accepted her anger toward me. I have important that you were as transparent as her own. She needs you to set a limit and
apologized and confessed to my shame and possible and that you accept responsibility to regain the respect you can have for
guilt. I have participated in all of the family for what happened. At this point it no yourself. It will help her to contain her
events and feel like I am always available longer serves the process to continue to anger and to trust again. The mistakes
for her wants and needs. I am trying to look at text messages or for other “hidden” we make are reflections of our human
make amends. things. You can now set a limit and say, condition. With compassion for ourselves
I feel like I have reached the end of my “enough is enough”. and others we can renew the bonds we
capacity to tolerate her anger and inability The same thing is true of anger. Righteous have with those we love.
to move on. Maybe she is right, we will indignation is a kind of anger that keeps I hope you will not continue to feel
have to divorce, but I desperately do not people stuck and unable to resolve the past. “helpless”.
want that. What can I do? Because someone is right does not mean I wish you well,
— Helpless they have permission to use that anger — Douglas
abusively or as a demonstration of power Do you have a question you would like
Dear Helpless, or as a punishment. You can now let her Douglas’s help with? You can email him at
I have talked about the healing process know it is not acceptable. I am not saying douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details
and how couples can get through these she doesn’t still have anger. I am saying that will not be printed

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE up an enticing mix of classic alfrescogroup.com labadiane-hanoi.com namese-French fusion cuisine. dim sum menus and set
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE and contemporary French An all-day eating and drink- On entering La Badiane, you menus. Reservations recom-
11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: cuisine, blended in with ing lounge fit for all occa- are instantly caught by the mended.
(04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Vietnamese ingredients and sions, with of course, a focus multitude aromas coming LE BEAULIEU
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991 cooking styles, the resultant on steak. Has three floors all from the open front kitch- CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET
elgaucho.com.vn fare has had customers com- with different vibes, the kind en. Then, surrounded by leaf Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 MEDITERRANEO
With venues in Saigon and ing back again and again. A of slick service you’d expect plants, and predominantly Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, PAN-ITALIAN
Bangkok, the essence of El traditional Vietnamese and from the Al Fresco’s Group white walls, the customer is Tel: (04) 3826 6919 23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem,
Gaucho is quality top grade kids menu is also available, and an extensive wine list. struck by this venue’s calm The Metropole’s signature Tel: (04) 3826 6288
meats off the grill. Steak is as is a wine list focusing and elegance. Although the restaurant serving up both This long-running, cozy res-
the mainstay — the USDA mainly on French wines. dining experience at la Badi- classic and contemporary taurant near the cathedral
cuts are to die for — but JASPA’S ane is about the food, great French fare. Buffet options serves all the traditional
everything from chicken, INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN attention is also paid to the mix with an a la carte menu Italian fare you could need
pork and seafood is also up HIGHWAY 4 Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba ambience so you can enjoy and an ambience that could — homemade mozzarella
for grabs. Add to this a back- VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, every aspect of your meal. be straight out of Paris. and fresh pasta, spinach
drop of low Latin music, low, 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325 Voted one of Miele Guide’s and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
subtle lighting, an extensive Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat alfrescosgroup.com Top 500 Restaurants in Asia. boards, soups, salads and
wine list and slick service. Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 Recently refurbished, the LINGUINI FINI fish. Boasts an extensive
There’s a reason El Gaucho is 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Australian-influenced Jaspa’s ITALIAN-AMERICAN wine list and a traditional
so successful — everything’s Tel: (04) 3771 6372 is known for its attentive LA BICICLETA 36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: wood fire oven.
being taken care of. The home of Son Tinh liquor, service, tasty food and large BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO (04) 3266 8968
Highway 4 is also known for portions. Popular with both 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, linguinifini.com/en/hanoi
its communal dining and the western and Asian ex- Tel: (04) 3718 8246 With branches in Hong Kong MING PALACE
FOODSHOP 45 ethnic food menu taking in pat communities who come thbc.vn and Manilla, the contempo- PAN-CHINESE
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN dishes from around the re- back again and again. The Spanish Tapas fare is avail- rary Italian-American Linguini Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, gions of northern Vietnam. comprehensive menu is a able elsewhere, but this is Fini pulls no punches with Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
Tel: (04) 3716 2959 Try out their catfish spring fusion of western and Asian the only eatery where it is its first outlet in Vietnam. A fine dining destination
foodshop45.com rolls. Phenomenal! cooking. The cocktails come authentic and from Barcelo- Sleek modern décor, high at the Sofitel Plaza serving
Lakeside location and low large and the wine is mainly na. Great selection of sand- quality cuisine, home-made Cantonese and pan-Chinese
bamboo seating, this eatery New World. wiches, tapas and paella as pasta, reasonable prices and cuisine in a sleek modern
is one of the most popular INDIA PALACE well as enormous Spanish- dishes cooked up with the setting with private dining
Indians in town. Selling an NORTH INDIAN style gin and tonics, Tinto freshest ingredients available rooms. With more than 80
international version of the 10B Quang An, Tay Ho KOTO ON VAN MIEU de Verano, carajillos and are part of the deal, as are dim sum selections available
mighty curry — they even Tel: 01247 668668 RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR sangria. Also known for its some damn fine pizzas. along with Chinese entrees,
sell pork and beef here — the indiapalacehn@vnn.vn 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, moreish, Catalan-style des- Ming’s is an ideal eatery for
menu keeps to the northern Like a phoenix rising from the Tel: (04) 3747 0337 serts. Closed Mondays. those hungry for higher end
part of the subcontinent with ashes, so India Palace has koto.com.au LUNA D’AUTUNNO Chinese fare.
masala, dopiaza, korma and once again returned to Tay Ho, The restaurant arm of Koto, CLASSIC ITALIAN
the more Goan vindaloo tak- this time on the strip between an F&B training school for LA SALSA 27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823
ing centre stage. Don’s and The Warehouse. disadvantaged youth. Au- IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 7338 MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES
Tasty North Indian fare in a thentic Asian and European 5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, lunadautunno.vn ARTS
pleasant environment from cuisine is served over four big Tel: (04) 3995 0950 This old-favourite Italian PAN-FRENCH
FRENCH GRILL the team behind Tandoor. floors of restaurant space. It’s lasalsa-hanoi.com uses traditional wood ovens 11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem,
TOP-END GRILL cushioned, comfortable and A small but eternally popular to prepare some of the city’s Tel: (04) 3828 7207
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc has a rooftop terrace, too. Spanish-themed café and bar finest pizzas, which range cafe-des-arts.com
Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, J.A.F.A. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo with an extensive list of reli- from VND100,000 to build- A contemporary and chic
Tel: (04) 3833 5588 INTERNATIONAL Nam bo, Koto burgers, pas- able cuisine. Tapas are avail- your-own-skies-the-limit. three-storey restaurant with
facebook.com/frenchgrill G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, tas, fish and chips, chicken able, as well as full courses Set inside a large, thoughtful a terrace and views over one
With unique decor, contem- Tel: (04) 3758 2400 Kievs and sandwiches all such as veal, and duck with space seasoned chefs also of Hanoi’s best-known alleys.
porary ambience, a walk-in One of the larger and more under one homely roof. currant sauce. Known for its make fresh pastas, soups Serves up quality French cui-
wine cooler and a delectable comfortable bars in Hanoi, good, European-style coffee and cheeses. Has regular sine such as: snails, foie gras,
seafood bar, this classy res- J.A.F.A. is a great place for and first-floor terrace area live music and a great Ital- lobster, scallops, chateaubri-
taurant offers guests a service drinking cocktails by the KY Y with views over the cathedral. ian wine list. and and tournedos Rossini.
experience with crafted food pool. The beverages are not JAPANESE RICE EATERY Does an excellent set menu
difficult to find in the capital. the cheapest, but this is 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba and also has a daily specials
made up for by service and Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 LA VERTICALE MAY MAN CHINESE board.
ambiance. They also have a Not to be mistake for a sushi CONTEMPORARY FRENCH CUISINE
GREEN TANGERINE full menu featuring familiar joint, this wonderful restau- 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, PAN-CHINESE
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION western dishes such as pizza rant is your typical, Japanese Tel: (04) 3944 6317 Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, MOOSE AND ROO
48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, and cheeseburgers and cater working person’s rice eatery. verticale-hanoi.com Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN
Tel: (04) 3825 1286 for large parties or dinner Has a bar area downstairs Situated in an art-deco villa, fortuna.vn RESTAURANT
greentangerinehanoi.com functions. Periodic buffets and and booth-like seating on this establishment is run by Elegant and luxurious, May 42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,
A leafy, cobblestone court- drink specials are also offered. the upper floors. the most famous French chef Man has long been regarded Tel:(04) 3200 1289
yard with dark green cast- in the country. With modestly as one of the best Chinese Contemporary Australian
iron backed chairs greets you priced set lunches and subtle restaurants in Hanoi. Show- and Canadian comfort food
as you walk into this French JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE LA BADIANE Vietnamese touches on the casing a selection of authen- in a pleasant setting together
era-built villa that houses the STEAKHOUSE / GRILL CONTEMPORARY FRENCH dishes, the up market estab- tic Chinese fare together with with a nice bar area. Best
main section of this Indochi- 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, lishment lures in its high class dim sum, May Man boasts known for their Scotch egg,
na-styled restaurant. Serving Tel: (04) 3938 8388 Tel: (04) 3942 4509 customers with quality Viet- extensive a la carte menus, poutine and burgers. Clever

TOP EATS HEMISPHERES
I
f this restaurant had a mascot, it would kitchen. Yet not once do you lose the sense For Chef Patrick, butter plus meat equals
be butter. “When in doubt, just chuck that everything here, from the cuisine to the a brand-new menu for Hemispheres —
some butter in it,” laughs Chef Patrick décor, is located in the modern day. and an extensive one at that. “I kept it
Morris, and he’s right. Rich and heavy, pretty simple, with flavours that guests
every dish wraps you in the comfort of Surf and Lots of Turf would know,” he explains. Modest for a
American-style steakhouse decadence. The first thing Hemispheres wants you to 29-year-old who was ranked among the
Located in the Sheraton Hotel, see, though, is their steak. In a case by the top 10 best chefs in Asia in the 2014 San
Hemispheres is a classy establishment with door, various cuts are on display. From Pellegrino International Chef Challenge.
a contemporary edge. It’s the kind of place Black Angus to Wagyu to Nebraska prime, Originally from Australia, Patrick started
where the waiting staff takes your order you’ve got options. The restaurant even his career as an apprentice at the age of
with a gentle smile, while you enjoy the boasts the only Hitachi beef in Hanoi, 15, working resorts in Queensland. After
fresh view of the garden and West Lake; the straight from Ibaraki prefecture in Japan. moving to the south of Thailand to gain
food is served before you even notice. The The characteristics of a steak, Chef Patrick international experience, he found a home at
vaulted wood ceiling makes the space feel explains, are determined by the marbling, or Hemispheres eight months ago.
grandiose, and every table is surrounded by fat content, in the beef. This marbling ranges His menu is centred around surf-and-turf,
plush armchairs, so you can eat steak like a from grades 1 through 12, with higher with a set menu for 120 grams of beef starting
king. And if you require entertainment, you marbling resulting in richer, more buttery at VND1.5 million, and seafood options
can watch your dinner being made through steaks. “It just melts in your mouth,” he says starting at VND1.3 million. But the choices
massive glass windows that encircle the open of those on the higher end of the scale. don’t stop there; Hemispheres has all kinds

of meats to mix and match, so we decided to — some cook for up to three days before There’s only one thing to finish off a
try some of their more exotic varieties. they’re ready for the plate. meal of meat and butter — chocolate.
Continuing our tour of Hemispheres’ Aptly named the ‘Chocolate Extravaganza’
Bring on the Sauce extensive list of meats, we sunk our forks (VND160,000), this dish consists of a
We started with Patrick’s take on a French into herb-crusted lamb from New Zealand lattice-work chocolate ball surrounding
bouillabaisse, a traditional Provencal fish (VND800,000), topped with roasted asparagus, a chef’s selection of treats inside. When
stew (VND290,000). Scallops, shrimp, baby carrots, beets and garlic. Again, the sauce served, hot melted chocolate is drizzled
salmon, and clams from Nha Trang and Hai made the dish; a thick, creamy red wine and over the structure until it cracks and
Phong are poached in a rich soup of saffron, Dijon mustard reduction, slowly simmered breaks, exposing a core of mint ice cream,
fennel and tomatoes, and finished with with lamb neck bones, perfect for soaking into strawberries, and crumbles of crispy
— you guessed it — butter. The result is a some house walnut bread. chocolate wafer. It’s interactive, fun to
savoury, comforting starter that warms your Last but not least, I tried my first bite of watch, and sure to induce a serious food
insides and satisfies your umami sensors. venison tenderloin (VND950,000). Served coma.
Our next dish was duck confit, topped almost rare due to its very low fat content, We left Hemispheres with eyes half-
with French foie gras and served with the meat was drizzled with a truffle jus closed, stomachs full and smiles wide. —
brioche. The meat, cooked for four hours and topped with juicy wild mushrooms, Jesse Meadows
in duck fat, is rich and buttery, contrasted roasted baby carrots, asparagus, and slow- Hemispheres is on the ground floor of the
by a tart black cherry topping and red wine roasted shallots. It was, needless to say, a Sheraton Hanoi Hotel, Ngo 1, Au Co, Tay Ho,
sauce. Patrick is serious about his sauces delicious introduction. Hanoi or online at sheratonhanoi.com

MEDICAL BUFF ROAD ACCIDENTS BY DR. BRIAN MCNAULL
W
e are continually dealing with Calling for Help possible danger to yourself or other
patients who have been in Always make the call for help immediately; providers.
traffic accidents. Some 95% of or if you can’t, then ask some one else to do — Don’t move casualties: You may cause
our traffic accidents are as a it for you. further injury unless more imminent danger
result of motorbikes or scooters. Make sure the following information is is possible to either the victim or yourself
Vietnam has very different road safety given to the medical services: (electrical or fire hazard).
rules compared to your host country. Be — Your telephone number (if you are cut — Check for breathing. If the casualty is
sure to follow the road safety rules you use off the emergency service will be able to not breathing, commence CPR.
at home and make sure family and children contact you) — Stop bleeding. Firm pressure on a
always look both ways when crossing — The location of the incident. Road wound will stem bleeding; do not remove
the street; this is really important when names or numbers, landmarks, map any objects which have penetrated the
the traffic flows in both directions. Try to reference, satnav positioning reference, etc. body.
remember to always put on your safety — Description of the incident, for — If an open bleeding fracture to a limb,
belt when you are in the car and if you ride example: “Motorcycle has hit a bus — the apply tourniquet pressure above the injury
motorbikes, helmets are a must. motorcyclist is not moving.” to reduce blood loss.
We know riding a bike will increase If it’s safe to proceed and you need to — Don’t give casualties anything to eat
the likelihood that you have an accident assist the victims who need help: or drink. This can cause complications for
in Vietnam; we recently treated a young Try to talk to those who are hurt. Don’t medics and delay life-saving treatment.
expat girl who drove her bike over a pot move them, as this could worsen their
hole in the road which was deeper than she injuries. Movement is only recommended Making a Difference
expected. Over the handle bars she went and if the patient might be in more danger; Once you engage with the patient and
subsequently crashed to the ground, with electric wires, a possible fire or oncoming start to help you must stay at the site until
cuts and a broken arm. She was lucky, as vehicles. Be calming and assure the victim the Emergency Service team arrives and
people around her got her to the side of the that help is coming. You can also cover you will be able to provide information
road as quickly as possible and then she was them with something warm if they need to them. While you are waiting, you may
given immediate medical assistance. it, shade them from the sun, or just hold be instructed to perform any necessary
Doctors talk about the ‘golden hour’ — a their hand. treatments; CPR, bleeding control and
euphemism for the time after an accident Remember, you’re not a medical choking can all be helped and your
when medical assistance is needed. The professional (unless, of course, you are assistance can significantly impact the
‘golden hour’ can be a few minutes to one!) So it’s not your job to treat major victim’s recovery. Being a First Aider has
several hours from the moment of injury, injuries — just try to keep victims safe until many benefits and regular First Aid Courses
depending on the severity of the accident; professional help arrives. are always possible and can save lives.
this is the window of opportunity for The quiet casualties are probably the Dr. Brian McNaull is the Medical Director of
medical intervention. worst injured, however you will need to Family Medical Practice Hanoi. For more advice
Responding to an accident or pain is reassure the nervous, noisy ones that help is on any medical topics, visit Family Medical
‘time critical’ — there is no time to waste on the way. Practice Hanoi on 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh or
— but what should you do if you are at call (04) 3843 0748. FMP’s Ho Chi Minh City
an accident, want to help, but medical Simple First Aid clinics are at Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1;
assistance is too far away? — Immediately look around for any 95 Thao Dien, Q2

Hanoi
PANE E VINO THE KAFE 25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem
PAN-ITALIAN CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, 18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
Tel: (04) 3826 9080 (04) 3747 6245 BIT TET NGON SO 5
facebook.com/panevinoHN thekafe.vn VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK
Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Spacious, casual, energetic and 20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh
Opera House, Pane e Vino serves beautifully designed, The KAfe
up authentic Italian food and has serves up unfussy comfort food
On the Town
done for as long as anyone can that aims to satisfy the modern BUN BO NAM BO
remember. Renowned for the urban diner. Preparing fresh food BUN BO NAM BO
highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and drinks that show respect to 67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem
and large variety of pasta and natural ingredients and flavours
salad dishes — look forward to from around the globe, this ca-
changing imagery on the walls. fine food done well at this eat- fé-cum-restaurant is a popular BUN CHA DAC KIM
ery that has the feel of Europe. choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual BUN CHA
Huge wine lists, friendly staff and community. 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67
MOOSE AND ROO a loveable owner. Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem
SMOKEHOUSE
AMERICAN GRILL WANNAWAFFLE
The American Club, 19-21 Hai PIZZA 4P’S WAFFLES KCC (KIEN CAN COOK)
Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT 27 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem; COM RANG DUA BO
3939 2470 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 138 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba 57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da
mooseandroo.com 01208 034444 Trung; Unit 108, Indochina Plaza,
There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s pizza4ps.com 241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay
popularity — the excellent, on-site Famed for its home-made moz- facebook.com/wannawaffle MIEN TRON HANH
smoked meats together with all zarella and Japanese-inspired Waffles, but not as you know it. MIXED GLASS NOODLES
the typical, American-style sides. pizzas that break all the rules, Here it’s about taking this hum- 7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem
Set in the American Club, dining is the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is ble dish and recreating it in a
both indoors and out, and comes as popular as its Saigon branch, a contemporary environment in as
with the best bourbon selection restaurant that has been greeted many ways as is humanly pos- MY VAN THAN
in town. by accolades by all asunder. All sible. Ever had a matcha waf- WONTON NOODLES
pizzas are cooked in a wood- fle? What about a waffle stuffed 54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem
fired oven and use fresh, local with cream cheese and smoked
NAMASTE HANOI ingredients. salmon? How about a banoffee
PAN-INDIAN pie or a pizza waffle? Wannawaf- PHO BO CU CHIEU
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, fle serves up all these creations PHO BO
Tel: (04) 3935 2400 POTS ‘N PANS and much more. 48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem
namastehanoi.com CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
The well-loved Namaste special- 57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel:
ises in dishes from both northern (04) 3944 0204 WRAP & ROLL PHO CUON HUNG BEN
and southern India — using Halal potsnpans.vn 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai PHO CUON
meat throughout. Hosted by the Brought to you by a group of for- Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem 26 Nguyen Khac Hieu,
gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost mer disadvantaged youth from Tel: (04) 3824 3718 Ba Dinh
you between VND150,000 and Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique wrap-roll.com
VND300,000 and everything is fine dining restaurant, bar and The lime green walls and bright
there, from curries and breads lounge blends the old with the pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are PHO GA BA LAM
to soups and desserts. new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, just part of the theme of this PHO GA
like profiteroles with green tea homegrown, Vietnamese brand 7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem
and café fillings, a private chef’s which is all about spring rolls
NAN N KABAB table with a kitchen view, and of all types, and healthy, Hue-
49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, an extensive wine list combined influenced cuisine. Now with PHO GA HANG DIEU
Tel: 0922 087799 with modern formal styling bring two restaurants in Hanoi — the PHO GA
Specialising in Pakistani cuisine a unique experience to Hanoi. second in Royal City. 1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem
and of course nan bread and ke-
babs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo
tabled, laid back eatery also sells SAINT HONORE ZENITH VEGETARIAN RESTAU- PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO RANT PHO BO
fare from Afganistan and India.
In a sentence? Curry, but not as 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) HOLISTIC VEGETARIAN 49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem
you know it. 3933 2355 247Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904
sainthonore.com.vn 356561
This bakery and French-style bis- zenithyogavietnam.com/ze- PHO LY QUOC SU
NINETEEN 11 tro is best visited in the morning nith-cafe PHO BO
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN when that Gallic, fresh-cooked A vegetarian and vegan café 10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem
The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, aroma of bread, croissants and connected to Zenith Yoga that
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801 patisseries hits you as you walk respects yoga philosophy. Sim-
nineteen11.com.vn through the door. The downstairs ple living, mindful thinking and PHO THIN LO DUC
Named after the completion space is split into the bakery 100 percent natural ingredients, SAUTEED BEEF PHO
date of the Hanoi Opera House, on one side with a small non- all the food here is served up 13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
this upscale yet casual restau- smoking dining space on the without additional additives or
rant maintains an ambience of other. The upstairs lounge area MSG and using only fresh sea-
elegance, luxury and mystery. has standard tables as well as sonal products. All dishes are PHO TRON
The cuisine mixes international sofa seating. Simple French and made in house. MIXED PHO
fare with twists on Vietnamese international fare is served at 5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma
cuisine and comes complete with meal times. STREETFOOD May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom,
a formidable wine list and an in- Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can,
house sommelier. Hoan Kiem
THE CART 3 CHI EM
SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM
OLD HANOI 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Vil- 18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho PHO TU LUN
GOURMET VIETNAMESE lage, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 PHO BO
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: thecartfood.com 23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
(04) 3747 8337 Small cozy café and sandwich BANH CUON HANG GA
hanoixua.vn/en bar hidden away in Nghi Tam BANH CUON
Gordon Ramsay once filmed Village. Serves and delivers tasty 14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem XOI HANG HOM
a show at this restaurant in a baguettes, homemade juices, STICKY RICE
renovated French villa and now quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. 44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem
the ribs carry his namesake. But The delivery service is quick and BANH DA TRON
it’s the twist on old world favour- reliable, which makes this lunch- BANH DA TRON
ites, think fried snail spring rolls time favourite ideal for when you 6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
and miniature vegetarian banh need to eat at the desk.
xeo, all in a casually elegant set-
ting that make this spot near the BANH MI 25
train tracks a standout. STREETSIDE BANH MI
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152 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com TThanh Cong

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DAO | April 2016 Word | 153
Van Ham
wordvietnam.com
Phan H
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Ho Chi Minh City
Day Tripper HCMC / Business Buff / Body and Temple / The Gym Diaries / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup /
Amazing Grapes / Know Your City / Top Eats 1 / Top Eats 2 / A World of Good
Photo by Kyle Phanroy
HCMC
BAKERIES interesting reading. Estab- Thanh Ton, Q1 SINGAPORE BUSINESS
lished in 1996, in 2004 they pnc.com.vn GROUP
opened in the US, 2005 in Although there are some 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy
ABC BAKERY China and 2007 in Vietnam. English-language texts in Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1,
BAKERY & CAFÉ French-styled with an Asian this modern, well laid out Tel: (08) 3823 3046
223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 touch, the bare-brick décor bookstore, the focus here sbghcm.org
phamngulao.abcbakery.co makes this a popular joint. is on all things Vietnamese.
Baguettes, croissants, pizza, Has over 25 locations in Vi- Worth checking out, thought, M M M
Essentials cakes, muffins, donuts and
brownies, this bakery and
etnam. for the occasional gem.
M M M
CLOTHING &
café all in one is a popu-
lar stop for those heading VOELKER
ACCESSORIES
SHOPPING
through the Backpacker
District. Online ordering
BAKERY
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
BUSINESS GROUPS
ANUPA ECO LUXE
MALLS
available. 6296 0066 LEATHER & JEWELLERY
voelker-vietnam.com AMERICAN CHAMBER OF 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 DIAMOND PLAZA
French–run bakery selling COMMERCE (AMCHAM) 2394 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel:
BREAD TALK probably the tastiest range of New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, anupa.net (08) 3825 7750
CHAIN BAKERY patisseries, breads, quiches Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562. Monday to Sunday, 9am 9am to 10pm
106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, and pies in town. The signa- amchamvietnam.com to 8pm Cosmetics, Perfume,
Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo ture passion–fruit tart is a This centrally located unique Clothing, Accessories,
City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, must try. boutique has been con- Electronics, Café, Food
Q7 AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER verted into an eco-boutique Court
breadtalkvietnam.com M M M OF COMMERCE which exclusively retails the
A Singaporean bakery chain (AUSCHAM) complete Anupa leather
that is vying for the Vietnam BOOKSHOPS 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, and semi-precious jewel- HUNG VUONG
cake and bread market. Pro- 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, lery range as well as other PLAZA
duces Asian-friendly patisse- Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 unique eco brands such as 126 Hung Vuong, Q5.
ries and cakes in a spacious, FAHASA auschamvn.org bamboo eyewear, pendant
Tel: (08) 2222 0383
airy atmosphere. Has eight VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE scarves and cushion covers.
BOOKSTORE
9.30am to 10pm
locations and counting.
40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP Cosmetics, Perfume,
Loi, Q1 OF VIETNAM (BBGV) BAM SKATE SHOP Clothing, Accessories,
HARVEST BAKING fahasa.com 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) SKATEWEAR / STREET Electronics, Café, Food
AMERICAN BAKERY Selling up a good selection of 3829 8430 174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 Court
harvestbaking.net English language books — in bbgv.org 641826
With a production facility in a range of reading areas — Bamskateshop.com.vn
Thu Duc, Harvest Baking fo- this multi-storied bookshop PARKSON PLAZA
cuses on both the retail and also does stationery, toys CANADIAN CHAMBER OF 35-45 Le Thanh Ton,
non-retail trade, cooking up and a range of related prod- COMMERCE (CANCHAM) BLUE DRAGON Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636
the best American-style bak- ucts. Has a good selection of Room 305, New World Hotel, SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING 9.30am to 10pm
ery products in the city. Has ESL texts. 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) Cosmetics, Perfume,
an excellent home delivery 3754 2210 2084 Clothing, Accessories,
service. Check the website canchamvietnam.org Electronics, Café, Food
for details. LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE Open to all nationalities, the
Court
NAM PHONG Canadian Chamber of Com- GINKGO
82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) merce aims to create an ef- VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
L’AMOUR 3914 7858 fective network of business 10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
BAKERY & CAFE Nam Phong Bookstore was associates together and to 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: SAIGON CENTRE
Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, founded at the of end 2002 facilitate discussion forums (08) 6270 5928 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072 in Ho Chi Minh City as the about business in Vietnam. ginkgo-vietnam.com 3829 4888
lamourbakery.com.vn first and only francophone Quality, original, Vietnam- 9am to 9pm
bookshop in the whole of themed tees are the show- Cosmetics, Perfume,
Vietnam. Only books written NORDCHAM piece at this airy French-run Clothing, Accessories,
TOUS LES JOURS in French are for sale, cover- 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, store. Designs are inspired Electronics, Café, Food
BAKERY & CAFE ing for all ages and tastes. 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) by anything from the Viet- Court
180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran A catalogue is available at 5416 0922 namese flag, local telecom
Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen namphongsaigon.com nordcham.com wires and motorbikes to
Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach creative, Siddharta-style SAIGON SQUARE
Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte imagery. 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi
Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, PNC PHILIPPINES BUSINESS
Nghia, Q1
Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GROUP VIETNAM
9am to 9pm
touslesjoursbakery.com BOOKSTORE 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh IPA-NIMA
2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045 Cosmetics, Perfume,
The background of this Ko- BAGS & ACCESSORIES
Parkson Center, 35-45 Le pbgvn.com 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) Clothing, Accessories,
rean bakery chain makes
3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: Electronics
(08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
VINCOM CENTER
70-72 Le Thanh Ton,
LITTLE ANH-EM Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING 9am to 10pm
37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: Cosmetics, Perfume,
0917 567506 Clothing, Accessories,
In addition to a varied selec- Electronics, Café, Food
tion of garments for babies Court
and children up to 10 years
PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY
old, Little Anh-Em stocks

sleeping bags and other ac-
cessories.
ZEN PLAZA
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Tel: (08) 3925 0339
L’USINE 9am to 10pm
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES Cosmetics, Perfume,
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Clothing, Accessories,
Tel: (08) 6674 9565 Electronics, Café, Food
lusinespace.com Court
Exclusive labels, elegant and
DAY TRIPPER: HCMC CAO MINH
A detour on the route to Mui Ne unveils a getaway only 40km from Saigon.
Words and photos by Kyle Phanroy
I
was headed to Mui Ne on a road trip A Failed Paradise? fan-cooled and at night, you’ll be sitting
when a few friends asked us to join Operating Cao Minh on a budget means that outdoors in the open air. So mosquito coils
them for a night at a place called Cao all the lofty constructions — the swimming are a must. Surrounded by trees and water,
Minh. The idea was to go camping pools, jet skis and zip lines — have gone after dark Cao Minh provides a sense of
and light up a barbecue at this self-styled unused. The place even has a castle- countryside isolation that makes it a perfect,
‘eco resort’ just over an hour from central like structure, suspension bridges and a if slightly run-down, getaway from the city.
Ho Chi Minh City. The only problem? waterfall. Once upon a time the ideas may Daytime here is different. People from
We didn’t have any tents. Not that it have been sound. Perhaps they just weren’t all around seem to descend on the resort.
mattered so much. It was just a question of executed properly. Yet the fact so much was Fortunately it’s never too crowded, never
authenticity. not working was part of the charm. too full of other people to intrude on your
What we discovered felt like a forgotten Due to our friends’ preferences, we ditched privacy.
oasis — run-down, under-maintained yet the idea of renting tents and ended up in a When we left I had one regret. I wish
eerily beautiful. Our guess was that the cabin that housed 10 people — it only cost we had rented or brought some tents. It
owner — a well-known singer who gave around VND1 million. And while food and would have added to the experience. I also
his name to the resort — had not created drink is sold on-site, we ended up bringing found myself thinking that with around
the cash cow he had hoped for. So he took our own. It was cheaper and more fun, and US$100,000 (VND2.2 billion) worth of
his finger off the pulse and rather than being on a budget, it made a bit more sense. investment, you could make the place work
investing, kept the place running at a Back to that cabin. The accommodation again and return it to its former glory. It’s a
minimum cost. is basic. Forget aircon — this place is nice thought.

Information
Khu Du Lich Sinh Thai Cao Minh is at 547
Ap 2, Xa Vinh Tan, Vinh Cuu, Dong Nai.
For further info call 0914 189121 or click on
dulichcaominh.com. The resort is located
to the northeast of Bien Hoa, close to Tri
An Lake. To get there go down Highway
1A north out of Ho Chi Minh City and go
through Bien Hoa. Turn left at Nga Ba Tri
An (Tri An Junction) onto TL767. Follow the
road for about 12km. Cao Minh is on the
right hand side.

BUSINESS BUFF DODGY EXPATS BY SHANE DILLON
M
ark my words you will see more way to meet some quality expats. Go to a meeting new and better friends, but old
dodgy expats in Vietnam in chamber event — those that are members ones figuring out how dodgy they are and
the coming years as it starts to in general are far more professional and the expat having to move on to the next
become an even easier place to legit than those who are not members. bunch of suckers. If someone is best bud-
live for foreigners. Over my past 13 years Auscham, BBGV, AmCham, the Singapore dies with a group one week and the worst
as an expat and eight years in Vietnam I Business Group, Nordcham, Eurocham, of enemies the next, there is a good chance
have met some of the best and worst of the InCham — all super examples of great there is something dodgy going on.
expatriate community. Some examples of business network chambers to join.
the ‘dodgy expat’ include; simultaneous No Charity Support. If you have been
multiple wives and children; abandoning @gmail or @hotmail for business. an expat for any length of time in a devel-
long-term girlfriends who become This is by far one of the best ways to spot a oping market, you should get behind at
pregnant; ripping off business partners, or dodgy expat. It still amazes me that there are least one charity organization with at least
plain old-fashioned dodgy drug dealing. financial services “professionals” who offer social support if not financial. Next time
This month I have made an easy advice on investment, insurance or property you meet an expat ask them what charity
checklist of how to spot a dodgy expat. and yet have no business email account. If they support, and get the inside scoop if
While there may be some exceptions to my the business card has @gmail just turn and they might be dodgy.
list, in general these are the tell-tale signs run. If it was accurate it would say @dodgy.
of who you are dealing with. If they hit on Girly Bars. If the expat goes to girly bars
more than three of these be warned: they Change of Companies. Many expat a few nights every week, this means they
are probably ‘dodgy’. managers in Vietnam complain about how need to pay people to hang out with them
quickly Vietnamese change jobs and this is and pretend they are somewhat interest-
No Paperwork. We all know some expats also a warning sign for expats. If the expat ing while they get drunk. We all know the
who have lived the expatriate lifestyle but has changed companies every few months answer already — they’re dodgy.
have never had the legal paperwork to then there is a probably a problem with the So the next time someone hands you a
do so. No work permits, no tax code, not person not the companies. Be warned — business card and offers you some advice,
registered where they live etc. They come up they could be dodgy. make a mental check with the above list.
with every imaginable reason why it’s better Who knows, it just might save you a lot of
to fly under the radar, but at the end of the Change of Social Group. I have met hassle down the road.
day the main reason is that they are dodgy. a few expats over my time that change Shane is an executive director of the
social/friendship groups on a regular basis. Australian Chamber of Commerce. He can be
No Chamber Affiliation. Here is a great Over time I have realized it is not them contacted at shanedillon@pacificcross.com

sophisticated clothing and multinational cuisine days.
casual high-quality cottons
are stocked at this boutique/
café. Lifestyle accessories SAIGON COOKING
include shoes, homewares, CLASSES BY HOA TUC
knickknacks, cameras, sta- 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
tionery and a range of vin- 3825 8485
tage bicycles. saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Viet-
namese cuisine with local
MANDARINA specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-
TAILOR-MADE SHOES hour lesson, conducted by an
AIRLINES 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 5267
English-speaking Vietnamese
chef, includes a trip around
Ben Thanh Market to gather
fresh ingredients for the class.
AIR ASIA ORANGE
airasia.com BUDGET CLOTHING
152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) VIETNAM COOKERY
3820 2620 CENTRE
9am to 10pm Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu
AIR FRANCE Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
airfrance.com.vn vietnamese-cooking-class-
PAPAYA saigon.com
BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
CATHAY PACIFIC papaya-tshirt.com CRAFTS & FURNITURE
cathaypacific.com/vn
T&V TAILOR ATC FURNITURE
TAILORS ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
CHINA AIRLINES 39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,
china-airlines.com 3824 4556 Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932
triciaandverona.com 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)
3840 3946
JAPAN AIRLINES U.BEST HOUSE atc-craft.com
vn.jal.com TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:
0978 967588 AUSTIN HOME
Ubesthouse.com REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS
JETSTAR PACIFIC 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
jetstar.com/vn/en (08) 3519 0023
VESPA SHOP austinhomeinteriors.com
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS This An Phu-based shop
80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 stocks antique repro furni-
KOREAN AIR Stocks a wide range of Ves- ture. All products are sam-
koreanair.com pa-inspired tidbits and mem- ples, so it’s limited and ex-
orabilia including t-shirts, clusive with only one or two
riding gear, Italian helmets, pieces of each particular
Respro face masks, DVDs, item. Also has a great range
LAO AIRLINES books, bags, magazines, of imported fabrics up on the
laoairlines.com posters and more. Rental 2nd floor and an in-house
scooters and bikes available. sewing room for cushions,
sofas and curtains. Offers
CORPORATE GIFTS custom-made furniture and
MALAYSIA delivery within four weeks.
AIRLINES
malaysiaairlines.com AMBRIJ
14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, CHI LAI
Tel: (08) 3824 8364 HOME FURNISHINGS
ambrij.com 175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:
SINGAPORE A one-stop-shop concept (08) 3519 4543
AIRLINES company providing market- chilai.com
singaporeair.com ing services including POSM, This well-known Vietnam-
corporate gifts and luxury ese furniture brand is a
ranges of business gifts good choice for most fami-
from international brands lies with its respected high-
THAI AIRWAYS like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881, quality designs and competi-
thaiairways.com.vn Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix, tive prices. Located on the
Ungaro and more. Also do corner of Pham Ngoc Thach
event management services. and Dien Bien Phu, the spa-
cious showroom specialises
TIGER AIRWAYS COOKING CLASSES in sofas and other furniture
tigerair.com such as table sets, shelves
and kitchen cabinets. There
OVERLAND CLUB is a large selection of carpets
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, as well as numerous choices
VIETJETAIR Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734 of curtains and accessories.
vietjetair.com overlandclub.jp
The Overland Club organises
pottery classes, Vietnamese- EM EM
Japanese cooking classes, SOUVENIRS
VIETNAM cultural art events and 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
AIRLINES monthly special activities, 3829 4408
vietnamairlines.com such as the Soba Festival, 8am to 9.30pm
pottery painting classes, the
art of decorating paper and

BODY AND
DIET RULES MADE TO BE BROKEN
TEMPLE BY PHIL KELLY
E
verybody seems to have some go-to 3) “Dietary fat keeps you feeling full 7) “Fat is fattening”. Fat is an es-
dieting rules when trying to lose longer, so you’ll eat less”. This rule sential part of your diet and contains es-
unwanted pounds. You’ve probably came to existence due to the fact that fat sential vitamins and nutrients our bodies
heard all sorts of silly rules, maybe takes longer to digest, but it will not help require to maintain health. Furthermore,
even followed them at some point. Let’s you control your appetite. Foods containing certain good fats actually turn off the fat-
weigh up a few common diet rules and see protein are more likely to fight off hunger storing genes and turn on the fat-burning
if there is any truth in them. Most commonly the longest. ones.
held beliefs about dieting won’t help you
lose weight or make dieting any easier. 4) “When you blow your diet, you 8) “All calories are equal”. For-
Here are eight food rules you can ignore: might as well wait until the next tunately, experts have proved this false.
day to get back on track”. Nothing We need to take the focus off calories and
1) “Eating at night will pile on the could be farther from the truth — try to get place it firmly on nutrient density. Differ-
pounds”. Putting on fat has more to do right back on track with your next meal. ent foods affect the body in very different
with the total calories and quality of food ways depending what nutrients, or lack
you consume over a 24-hour period or over 5) “Refusing food at a party or of, are consumed with those calories.
a week. The time of day you eat calories when visiting is rude”. This olden-day In the end, nutrition experts say, many
doesn’t matter as much as what you eat way of thinking should have no place in the of the food and dieting rules we hold dear
and how much compared to your activity modern era. It is now socially acceptable to are meant to be broken. There is really
levels. turn down food you know is not healthy or only one rule that we should all try to
will hinder your weight-loss goals. People uphold. That is to always eat “real food”
2) “Eat five meals per day at are more likely to compliment you on your and therefore stay away from processed
regular times”. The best approach is to will power. foodstuffs. Your body will generally
eat when you’re hungry, not when the clock automatically regulate your weight in
says it’s time to eat. Everyone’s metabolism 6) “Skipping a meal every now a healthy range if not clogged up with
is different and there is no golden rule to and then will help you lose”. Skip- toxins and chemicals.
stick to. If you are not active then eating ping a meal means you will be even hun- Phil is founder and master trainer at Body
five meals per day is a mistake, as it will grier at the next meal, where you are likely Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763,
elevate insulin levels that can cause a fat to then overeat. This can also affect your at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or
storing state instead of a fat burning state. metabolism by causing it to slow down. through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

HCMC
FEELING TROPIC Cycles, a homegrown cy-
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES cling company with all prod-
51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, ucts designed in Vietnam.
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Sells up budget bicycles to
Specialising in interior de- high-end product, with the
signs and landscaping, this full range of accessories in
three-storey building is so between. Also stocks GT and
packed full of items for sale Cannondale.
Essentials that it doesn’t seem to have

enough space for all of its
products. The basement sto- SAIGON CYCLES
rey carries outdoor furniture CYCLING & ACCESSORIES
such as bamboo-imitation 44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1
and mosaic table sets, while Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08)
the second level stocks all 5410 3114
types of indoor furniture ex- xedapcaocap.com
cept beds. Accessories are Specialising in Trek and Surly,
found on the level above. Saigon Cycles is also famed
for its Sunday morning rides.
Sells the full range of acces-
MEKONG CREATIONS sories and also does bicycle
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS repairs.
35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org THE BIKE SHOP
CYCLING & ACCESSORIES
250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
NGUYEN FRERES Tel: (08) 3744 6405
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS thebikeshopvn.com
2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) The go-to location for all your
3823 9459 cycling needs in District 2.
8am to 8pm Sells a range of brands in-
cluding Cannondale, Jett, GT
and Aluboo, as well as the
MEKONG QUILTS full selection of accessories.
HAND-MADE QUILTS Organises regular cycle rides,
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: does repairs and rentals.
(08) 2210 3110 Check facebook.com/the-
mekong-quilts.org bikeshopvn for more details.
M M M
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS DENTAL CLINICS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65
Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115
nhaxinh.com ACCADENT
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
REMIX DECO Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
INDOOR FURNITURE accadent.com
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com
THE FURNITURE HOUSE

HOME FURNISHINGS ELITE DENTAL GROUP.
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, 57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC,
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 Tel: (08) 3933 3737
info@elitedental.com.vn
elitedental.com.vn
THE FURNITURE Elite Dental is an interna-
WAREHOUSE tional and well-equipped
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE clinic, which provides spe-
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: cialized dental services in-
(08) 6657 0788 cluding ALL-ON-4 Implants,
thefurniturewarehouse. ALL-ON-6 implants, dental
com.vn implants, prosthodontics,
Invisalign & orthodontics.
CYCLING Luxury design and our den-
tal experts will bring you
an extremely comfortable
FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM experience.
firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for
two to five-year-olds elimi-
nate the need for training INTERNATIONAL SOS
wheels or stabilisers, and DENTAL CLINIC
support proper balance de- INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
velopment. 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
JETT CYCLES Globally renowned provider
OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM of medical assistance and in-
384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi ternational healthcare offers
Sau, Q3 full dental services in the
jett-cycles.com clinic. Foreign and Vietnam-
The showroom home of Jett ese dentists provide high

HCMC
skilled dental service. Or- at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC CLASSIC FINE FOODS
thodontics is also available. GROCERIES & IMPORTER
No. 17, Street 12 (perpen-
MINH KHAI DENTAL DOGMA dicular to Tran Nao street),
CLINIC 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC dogmacollection.com classicfinefoods.com
199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, The home of Vietnamese Supplier for the city’s five–
Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399 propaganda art and a col- star hotels, also distributing
Essentials lection put together over the

last two decades by art col-
lector Dominic Scriven, the
brands like San Pellegrino,
Rougie foie gras, Galbani
cheese, fresh poultries,
majority of the work comes
from the war period when
meat, live seafood and veg-
etables. You can now find all
SPORTS
provocative poster art was the products at the gourmet
used to inspire and motivate. shop on location. CRICKET astere@hotmail.fr
STARLIGHT DENTAL Sells prints of the originals
CLINIC and related products.
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC ECCS (THE ENGLISH SAIGON RAIDERS
2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, CRICKET CLUB OF Saigonraiders.com
Tel: (08) 3822 6222 GALERIE QUYNH SAIGON)
24, Thao Dien,Q2 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) Richard Carrington, Tel:
starlightdental.net 3836 8019 0909 967 353 SAIGON RUGBY CLUB
Long–established, modern galeriequynh.com richard.car rington@ RMIT University, 702 Nguy-
clinic with French, Cana- In addition to working with market-edge.asia en Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
dian, Belgian & Vietnamese artists based in Vietnam, eccsaigon.com saigonrugbyfootballclub@
dentists. A favourite of the Galerie Quynh also exhib- yahoo.com
foreign residential commu- its the work of artists from MEATWORKS BUTCHERY
nity due to its modern and ef- around the world. This well- BUTCHERS
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET
CLUB OF SAIGON) SAIGON SAINTS
fective treatments allied with established gallery supports 1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 saigonsaints.com
extremely reasonable prices. education through talks, lec- 3744 2565
770 038
tures and publications. meatworksasia.com deepteshgill@gmail.com SPORTS — GENERAL
Focusing on the retail trade,
the meat at this Australian-
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE managed butcher comes ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
ARTS MUSEUM pre-prepared and, if you so CLUB IN SAIGON) saigonhash.com
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: wish, pre-marinated. Sells Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
WESTCOAST INT’L DEN- (08) 3829 4441 up some of the best import- 973 244
TAL CLINIC baotangmythuattphcm.vn ed meats in town together gmunish29@yahoo.co.in RANGERS BASEBALL
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Set in one of the finest with homemade sausages, TEAM
Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung remaining buildings of free-range products and isao.shimokawaji@sap-
Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 colonial-era Vietnam, this excellent Australian grass- PSSC (PAKISTAN porobeer.co.jp
Thao Dien Clinic, 27 Nguyen Ba multi-storey museum houses fed steak. SAIGON CRICKET CLUB)
Lan, Q.2, Tel: (08) 35 191 777 collections spanning centu- Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
westcoastinternational.com ries of Vietnamese art. Has 469 090 SAIGON INTERNATIONAL
An international dental clinic regular exhibitions. samie.cashmiri@gmail. DARTS LEAGUE
com thesidl.com
equipped with the latest PHUONG HA
technology, the comfortable GROCERS
clinics offer cosmetic and SAN ART 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) SACC (SAIGON AUS- SAIGON INTERNATIONAL
implant dentistry with a fo- 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, 3914 1318 TRALIA CRICKET CLUB) SOFTBALL LEAGUE
cus on making each patient’s Tel: (08) 6294 7059 A small yet amazingly well- Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 saigonsoftball.info
experience anxiety and pain san-art.org stocked store that puts 998 824
free. San Art is an independ- many a supermarket in this sacccricket@gmail.com
ent, artist-run exhibition country to shame. As well SAIGON SHOOTERS NET-
space that offers residency as a dizzying selection of BALL CLUB
programmes for young art- imported foods, also sells SSC (SRI LANKA saigonshootersnetball.
MAPLE HEALTHCARE ists, lecture series and an frozen meat and fish, fruit, SPORTS CLUB) blogspot.com
DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS exchange programme that vegetables, herbs, spices Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 invites international artists / and a wide selection of dairy 571 010
(across from FV Hospital), Tel: curators to organise or col- products. suhard.amit@yahoo.com SAIGON SPORTS ACAD-
Tel: (08) 5410 0100 laborate on exhibitions. EMY
maplehealthcare.net 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
UCC (UNITED CRICKET 7303 1100
Specialising in healthcare, GROCERIES & LIQUOR THE WAREHOUSE saigonsportsacademy.com
CLUB)
dental services and chiro- WINE SHOP
Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
practic medicine, the re- 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: npasifali@hotmail.com
cently opened Maple Health- ANNAM GOURMET (08) 3825 8826 SQUASH
care comes replete with the MARKET One of the busiest wine re- The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
latest technology together GROCERY & DELI tailers in town. In addition VIETNAM CRICKET AS- Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
with efficient and comfort- 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: to their excellent range of SOCIATION (VCA) 2098 ext 176
able service. (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao wines, they also stock im- Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 thelandmarkvietnam.com
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 ported beers, bottled mineral 200 598
M M M Annam-gourmet.com water and spirits. manish@ambrij.com
Attractive and spacious TORNADOS HOCKEY
GALLERIES French–owned grocery shop FOOTBALL & RUGBY CLUB
stocking a large range of VEGGY’S 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10,
foods, organic fruit and GROCERS & DELI Tel: 0938 889899
CRAIG THOMAS vegetables, imported beers 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: AUSTRALIAN RULES James.chew@vietnam-
GALLERY and wines. Also sells luxury FOOTBALL hockey.vn
(08) 3823 8526
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: branded products from the Tel: 0937 683 230
Courtesy of a farm in Dalat,
0903 888431 likes of Fauchon. The deli
vietnamswans.com
Veggy’s retails some of the ULTIMATE FRISBEE
cthomasgallery.com upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung best quality fruit and veg RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van
Craig Thomas Gallery offers branch serves tasty baguette available in the city. Also LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON Linh, Q7
a compelling mix of up-and- rolls in a comfortable lounge has a wide selection of im- gauloisdesaigon.com Saigon-ultimate.com
coming and established area with free Wi–Fi, and of- ported food products includ-
local artists. In operation fers probably the best selec- ing USDA beef, the same beef
since 2009, its founder has tion of cheese and cured served up at El Gaucho. OLYMPIQUE SAIGON X–ROCK CLIMBING
been promoting Vietnam- meats in town. Contact Fred on 0919 709 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
ese art for a decade. Now 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 Tel: (08) 6278 5794
has a second newer gallery 171. xrockclimbing.com

HAIRDRESSERS, JASMINE CENTRE MEDICAL
SALONS & SPAS 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: INTERNATIONALE (CMI)
(08) 3827 2737 FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC
Jasminespa.vn 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
AVEDA HERBAL SPA Spa–related salon with a 3827 2366
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao good reputation for quality cmi-vietnam.com
Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 and comfort offers washes This French medical clinic
avedaherbal@gmail.com and leisurely haircuts from provides general practice
VND330,000 plus a range of and a range of specialties
related services including including cardiology, gyne-
CAT MOC SPA massage and some excellent cology, psychotherapy, oph-
63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) treatments. thalmology, paediatrics and
6295 8926 acupuncture.
catmocspa.com
Aimed exclusively at ladies QUYNH BEAUTY SALON
and couples only, treatments 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, FAMILY MEDICAL
at this Japanese spa include Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321 PRACTICE HCMC
facial, body and foot care, A District 2 favourite, this is INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
and Japanese-style haircuts, the salon to head to for any- Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
as well as steam-sauna, par- thing from massage to hair- Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848; 95 Thao
affin and waxing services. cuts, hairwashing to nails. Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000
Cheap prices, too. vietnammedicalpractice.com
Full–service 24–hour health-
CONCEPT COIFFURE care provider with highly–
48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: SPA TROPIC qualified doctors handling
(08) 3519 4625 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) everything from emergen-
Conceptcoiffure.vn 3910 5575 cies to tests and X–rays, in–
Hair stylist and colourist spe- spatropic.com patient and out–patient care,
cialist Sandrine has relocated Spa Tropic is a stylish bou- check–ups, travel medicine
her long-standing flagship tique spa housed in the and medical evacuations.
salon Venus Coiffure to a villa refurbished former Chilean
in Thao Dien. A full range of Consulate. Spa Tropic has
services is offered including a long-standing reputation FV HOSPITAL
a dedicated kids salon. among expats and visitors INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
alike for its professional 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon
quality service. South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08)
FAME NAILS SALON 5411 3333
3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 HOSPITALS & Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
682 827 MEDICAL CLINICS fvhospital.com
famenails.com International hospital
whose standard of health
AMERICAN care matches that found
GLOW SPA CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC anywhere, with 19 full–time
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: CHIROPRACTOR French doctors and 58 Viet-
(08) 3823 8368 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, namese doctors, providing
glowsaigon.com Tel: (08) 3939 3930 expertise in 30 medical and
Modern and bright down- www.acc.vn surgical areas, especially ma-
town spa, offers massages ACC provides effective chi- ternity care.
lasting from 30 minutes, to ropractic, physiotherapy,
two-hour hot stone therapy, acupuncture and foot care
includes one suite with a treatments through the use FV SAIGON CLINIC
Jacuzzi bath; offers hand of cutting edge technology INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
and foot care and a hair for back, neck and knee 3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial
styling area. pain, sports injuries as well Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
as all types of foot related (08) 6290 6167
problems without the need fvhospital.com
HAIR BAR of drugs or surgery. State–of–the–art medical cen-
CONTEMPORARY SALON tre located in District 1. Ex-
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREE- perienced American, French,
PHONE) 1800 1108 AMERICAN EYE CENTER and Vietnamese doctors pro-
hairbar.vn 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 vide the full spectrum health
A unique themed hair salon Ton Dat Tien, Q7 care. Plus sports medicine,
where stylists use no scis- Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 cosmetic treatments, skin
sors but styling equipment americaneyecentervn.com care and surgical consulta-
only, giving female clients American Eye Center is lo- tions.
the opportunity to get their cated in the heart of Phu My
hair done on the run. Of Hung, providing eye care ser-
course, they have to look vices to Adults and Children HANH PHUC
fabulous, too. Fortunately by an American Board-cer- INTERNATIONAL
this is one of Hair Bar’s spe- tified ophthalmologist with HOSPITAL
cialities. Check the salon out 17 years of experience. The INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
on Facebook: facebook.com/ American-standard facility is Binh Duong Boulevard, Th-
hairbarvn. equipped with state of the uan An District, Binh Duong
art equipments for the early Tel: (0650) 363 6068
detection and treatment of hanhphuchospital.com
INDOCHINE SPA important eye diseases from Claiming to be the first Sin-
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: Lasik and cataract surgeries gapore-standard hospital in
(08) 3827 7188 to presbyopia, glaucoma Ho Chi Minh City, this institu-
Indochine-spa.com.vn and diabetic eye disease tion based on the outskirts
Indochine Spa provides a treatments. Cosmetic proce- of town is gaining a growing
peaceful and serene atmos- dures such as eyelid surgery reputation for service and
phere with aromatic scents and Botox injections are also treatment. Specialises in pro-
and lulling melodies. Custom- available. viding healthcare to women
ers are pampered by quali- and children. Has a clinic at
fied therapists using natural 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1
French products in a clean
and pleasant environment.

HCMC
HAPPINESS (HANH INSURANCE INTERNATIONAL
PHUC) ORIENTAL SCHOOLS
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EASTERN MEDICINE PACIFIC CROSS VIETNAM
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Tel: (08) 3821 9908 Saigon South Campus 1 (Pri-
pacificcross.com.vn mary & Secondary), Tel: (08)
Essentials INTERNATIONAL SOS

HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC
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5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon
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is accredited by CIE, AQA,
gency care. Specialist care is for transparent, honest and the Education Development
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reliable service means they Trust and members of CO- 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
are the strength behind BIS and FOBISIA. Provides dancentervn.com
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IF CONSULTING
IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A AUSTRALIAN
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING
Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) INTERNATIONAL
189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 3827 7362 SCHOOL (AIS)
Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: insuranceinasia.com Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
helenekling.com
(08) 3827 6999 Independent advisors that Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
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The Australian and Cana- medical insurers provide APSC Compound, 36 Thao INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER
dian managed SIAN Clinic you with the best suitable Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
offers a wide range of sk- medical cover for individual, Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Inspirato.edu.vn
incare medical therapies to family or company needs. Chi Tho (East-West High-
treat problems by an expe- For emergencies call 0903 way), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08)
rienced dermatologist and 732365 3742 4040 MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE
facial care team. The clinic aisvietnam.com 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
utilises the latest therapies. The Australian International Minhnguyenpiano.com
LIBERTY INSURANCE School is an IB World School
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana with three world-class cam-
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: puses in District 2, offering PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE 1800 599 998 an international education 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS libertyinsurance.com.vn from kindergarten to senior paa.com.vn
99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: International insurance firm school with the IB Primary Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids
(08) 3925 1990 providing the full range of Years Programme (PYP), Cam- in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet
stamfordskin.com services to the individual — bridge Secondary Programme and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and
Stamford Skin Centre offers a car insurance, travel insur- (including IGCSE) and IB Di- a mixture of private and group classes.
broad range of medical and ance, health insurance, home ploma Programme (DP).
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Their international derma- PIANO CLASSES
tologists and doctors ensure ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL Tel: 01225 636682
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treatment procedures. It INSURANCE AGENCY 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset
houses excellent equipment Mobile: (1) 617 676 7858 Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An
for a variety of procedures. noahjamesinsurance.com Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804 SAIGON MOVEMENT
Skype: jp.global etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc Tel: 0987 027 722
A full service broker offer- Following an international saigonmovement@gmail.com
TRADITIONAL ing expatriates and local curriculum for children aged
MEDICINE HOSPITAL Vietnamese customized so- 18 months to six years, in the
EASTERN MEDICINE lutions from highly rated in- early years, an Inquire-Think- SAIGON SEAL TEAM
187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, surers for life, health, travel, Learn approach is followed, 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
Tel: (08) 3932 6579 as well as speciality cover for inspired by the Reggio Emilia
student travel, medevac, in- Project of Northern Italy. It is
ternational marine, extreme a play-based, inquiry model SAIGON PONY CLUB
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE athletics and adventure. For in which children co-con- 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC details contact: james@noah- struct their learning in close, Saigonponyclub.com
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC jamesinsurance.com respectful collaboration with
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: their teachers. This helps
(08) 3910 4545 us provide an environment SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY
victoriavn.com TENZING PACIFIC where children take respon- 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
Well-regarded clinic offering SERVICES sibility for their own learn- saigonsportsacademy.com
general examinations and 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: ing, allowing them a head International coaches provide training in soccer, basket-
specialising in pediatrics, di- (08) 3821 5367 start in life. ball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16
gestive diseases, cardiology, ten-pac.com years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth
women’s health and internal A full-service insurance bro- soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
medicine. Offers a member- ker offering a wide range of BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
ship programme and coop- insurance solutions from the SCHOOL (BIS)
erates with most insurance best local and international 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, TAE KWON DO
companies in Vietnam and providers. Recommendations Tel: (08) 3744 2335 BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
abroad. are based exclusively on cli- bisvietnam.com
ent needs. Inspected and approved by
the British Government, BIS VINSPACE
provides a British style cur- 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
riculum for an international vin-space.com
student body from pre-school

to Year 13. The school is KIDS CLUB SAIGON based upon the British cur-
staffed by British qualified 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; riculum complemented by
and trained teachers with 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) the International Primary
recent UK experience. Fully 5412 5944 Curriculum and Interna-
accredited by the Council of kidsclubsaigon.com tional Baccalaureate. It is a
International Schools and a Early childhood centres in family school with first-class
member of FOBISIA, BIS is the Phu My Hung offering crea- facilities including a 350-seat
largest international school in tive play-based programmes theatre, swimming pool,
Vietnam. for children ages two to five. mini-pool, play-areas, gym-
Known for unique facilities, nasium, IT labs, music and
experienced staff, high- drama rooms, science labs
CANADIAN quality learning resources, and an all-weather pitch.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL and small class sizes.
7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3456 SAIGON KIDS
cis.edu.vn EDUCATIONAL
The first Canadian interna- CHILDCARE CENTRE
tional school in Vietnam 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08)
serves local and foreign 3740 8081
students from Kindergarten saigonkidskindergarten.com
to grade 12. Talented, certi- SKECC has evolved over 10
fied teachers implement the years to create a creative,
internationally recognised playful learning environ-
Ontario curriculum to cre- INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL ment for children ages two
ate a student-centred learn- SAIGON PEARL to six. Limited class sizes and
ing environment promoting 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, highly engaged teachers en-
academic excellence. Has a Tel: (08) 2222 7788/99 sure personal attention for
newly built campus. issp.edu.vn all students.
Vietnam’s only international SAIGON SOUTH
school offering a U.S. cur- INTERNATIONAL
riculum for children aged SCHOOL (SSIS)
18 months to 11 years old. 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
With 100% English language (08) 5413 0901
immersion, a library con- ssis.edu.vn
taining over 13,500 English Offers an American-style ed-
books and more than 60% ucation (SAT, IB and AP) from
of students achieving above elementary to high-school,
grade level English, ISSP emphasizing a multi–cultural
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL students are well prepared student environment and a
HO CHI MINH CITY for secondary school at ISH- commitment to well–round-
28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) CMC or ISHCMC - American ed education at all levels.
3898 9100 Academy.
ishcmc.com
HCMC’s most established SAIGON STAR
international school offers INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
three International Bacca- EUROPEAN Residential Area No. 5,
laureate programmes for INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
students from two to 18 HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 3742 7827
years old. ISHCMC will be 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, saigonstarschool.edu.vn
launching a new secondary Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257 Supported by the Cam-
campus in 2017, featuring eishcmc.com bridge International Primary
Vietnam’s first Innovation The European International Programme, SSIS integrates
Center, a 350-seat profes- School offers a supportive Montessori methods into
sional theatre, NBA-sized and challenging academic nursery and kindergarten
basketball courts and a 25m education from Early Years programmes to create a
competitive swimming pool. to Grade 12 based on the IB stimulating learning envi-
curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Tal- ronment. Small class sizes
ent School and is part of the allow experienced teachers
Nobel Education Network. to cater to individual needs.
The school educates global
citizens to enjoy learning, in-
quiring and caring for others. SMARTKIDS
1172 Thao Dien Compound,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
MONTESSORI Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (08) 3744 2639 (08) 3519 4236
HO CHI MINH CITY — montessori.edu.vn smartkidsinfo.com
AMERICAN ACADEMY Aiming to encourage chil- This international childcare
16 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) dren’s engagement with centre provides children ages
3898 9100 their surroundings, MIS of- 18 months to six years with
aavn.edu.vn fers children from age three a high quality education in
ISHCMC — American Acad- to 12 a classic Montessori a playful and friendly envi-
emy is a U.S. curriculum education as well as a variety ronment.
secondary school for stu- of extra–curricular activities.
dents aged 11 to 18 years
old. Early university credits, THE AMERICAN SCHOOL
a 1:1 University Counseling RENAISSANCE 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,
Program, and an extensive INTERNATIONAL Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
EAL program set our grad- SCHOOL SAIGON tas.edu.vn
uates on the road to 100% 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Accredited by the Western
acceptance rate at overseas Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext Association of Schools and
universities and a US$1 mil- 120/121/122 Colleges (WASC), TAS repre-
lion scholarship fund. renaissance.edu.vn sents 20 nationalities and
Renaissance is an Interna- provides an American-based
tional British school provid- curriculum with rigorous
ing an inclusive curriculum performance standards and

THE GYM DIARIES
PART 6
Struggling to get in
shape, Owen Salisbury
tries another tack and
gets himself down
to the doctor. As he
discovers, nothing is
ever straightforward

BY OWEN SALISBURY
PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN
T
he nurse gestures at my pants. Her also revealed new battles, new challenges lived through it himself, he spotted it fairly
English is limited but her meaning that won’t make their way into these pages. quickly, but it took a while for him to be
clear. I hesitate and she makes This is new for me, and I’ve struggled certain enough to offer specific advice.
another pulling motion. a lot. Should I be totally honest and open
One bed over, a young man strokes a about all this? Forget the column; this is my When Your Number Comes Up
woman’s hand. She moans softly. There are life and the internet is forever. But as I wrote last month, if you’re a man
no screens. and you begin to experience lethargy, lack
My mind floating in 10 different Answers Lead to Questions of motivation, lack of libido, weight gain,
directions, I bare my ass. She rolls me onto A blood test I took last week shows that I muscle loss, depression, anxiety, you should
my side, swipes my flank with iodine and have low testosterone, approximately half of get your hormone levels checked.
jabs the needle in. The pain is fleeting. The the lowest amount considered acceptable for If you’ve ever had a head injury (as I
confusion isn’t. a man my age. If I want to feel normal I will have) or testicle injuries (thanks, mixed
be on hormone replacement therapy (HRT) martial arts and random crazy girls!) then
Facing the Unexpected for the foreseeable future. A needle in the you’re far more at risk for low testosterone
This month’s column won’t have much to do ass, twice a week, forever. levels. All told, as many as one-third of us
with the gym. The other unexpected result is that I deal with this, wittingly or not. One in three.
I never expected my life to tilt so probably have some form of anaemia. Is it My number just came up.
sharply, but who does? As much as I had benign? How long has it been going on? Women, too, need to specifically check
expectations, I thought this would be a What’s caused it? How do I get better? their hormone levels. I urge you all to take
straightforward column; the diary of a guy The implications are only beginning to stock. If you think something isn’t working,
in his mid-to-late 30s trying to get some sink in. if you just don’t feel right, talk to the experts.
basic fitness back. I thought my health How much will my health revolve around Get a second opinion. Get tests.
would improve, and it has. I thought I’d these two shots? How much will my life? Knowing is always better, because then
gain muscle, which I have. I thought I’d lose Will I be able to travel all the places you can do something.
weight… still trying. I want to travel? Will I be able to take
But as I mentioned last month, things needles and steroids to, say, Europe? A Technical Success
never quite gelled. And life is never Japan? China? Next month, I should be able to tell you
straightforward. Getting serious about my health was if the treatment is working. So far I feel
At the advice of my trainer, Dan, I went the impetus behind this whole experience, nothing, but I’ve had only my first injection.
and got my testosterone levels tested. He’d behind spending thousands of dollars on Next month, I should have answers to some
been through it, and my general malaise a personal trainer. If this therapy works, of these questions, and I should know where
looked all too familiar to him. then believe me, the money is well spent matters are headed.
Though still too early to be certain, it looks — and I have to commend trainer Daniele It will be a fitting way to close this column;
like this change will be for the good. It has Morretti for his sharp judgment. Having I set out to change my life, after all.

HCMC
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Minh City serviced residences SOFITEL PLAZA A bouldering gym and pro VLS SAIGON
combine the space and priva- FITNESS CENTRE climbing wall replete with 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
cy of an apartment with the HEALTH CLUB & GYM a showroom and café offers (08) 3910 0168
services of a top-rated hotel. 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) something that this area has vlstudies.com
They come with separate liv- 3824 1555 never experienced before, a Offers courses ranging
ing and dining areas, as well A small but well-appointed place to climb. Has a number from basic conversational
as a fully equipped kitchen gym with regular fitness of climbing sections, runs Vietnamese to upper el-
where guests can prepare a classes, a steam room and training courses and also ementary, intermediate and
meal for themselves, their sauna. Has a small but con- sells daily climbing passes advanced levels, as well as
family and friends. sistent membership. for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit special courses including
pass pay VND1 million). Vietnamese literature, com-
CINEMAS SPORTS & FITNESS
STAR FITNESS GYM
position or a 6-hour survival
VETERINARY CLINICS crash course.
HEALTH CLUB & GYM
Showcasing the latest CHIARA SQUINZI Manor Apartments, 91 Nguy-
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SPORTS GARMENTS
en Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, ANIMAL DOCTORS
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sensations, chains such Experienced health coach Steve Chipman, who had a 1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien,
as CGV, Lotte and and corporate & school well- hand in establishing gyms Q2. (08) 6260 3980
ness coach. Can help clients at the Sofitel hotels in Ha-
Galaxy Cinema offer
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For those partial to more ara@laholista.com for info. nary medicine and surgery (08) 3719 9588
to all pets in Ho Chi Minh score-tech.net
esoteric and City with international vet-
THE LANDMARK CLUB Apparel company offer-
independent flicks, erinary surgeons. Upholding ing personalised sport
GYM, POOL, SQUASH
smaller outlets such as international standards, the garments for companies,
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Cinebox and Idecaf carry Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 team works tirelessly to help schools and professional
little known Vietnamese 2098 ext. 176 clients with the support of a sports clubs using the latest
and European efforts. thelandmarkvietnam.com dedicated surgical suite, digi- printing technology with a
In addition to the squash tal X-Ray and comprehensive design team from Barcelo-
BODY AND MIND court, facilities include a diagnostic facilities. na. Score-Tech controls the
BOXING / FITNESS fully–equipped gym room, a whole production process
CINEBOX 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 rooftop swimming pool and VIETNAMESE CLASSES from fabric production and
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 771326 separate male and female printing to sewing. Big and
Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cyril-and-you.com saunas. small orders for all sporting
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LOTTE CINEMA personalised mentorship CLIMBING GYM Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771
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Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 kids and adults every day. facebook.com/vertical.acad-
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3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, for classes. Tuesday to Fri-
469 Nguyen Huu Tho, day every week at 5pm. All
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Tel: (08) 3775 2521 by Cyril himself.
lottecinemavn.com
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS
GALAXY CINEMA 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 (08) 3744 6672
Tel: (08) 3920 6688 nutrifort.com
116 Nguyen Du, Q1 A well-appointed gym also
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IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 SAIGON HASH
Tel: (08) 3829 5451 HOUSE HARRIERS
idecaf.gov.vn saigonhash.com
Sunday 2pm sharp, Cara-
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VND150,000 for locals and
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu VND220,000 for expats. Bus,
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) water, snacks and freeflow
5412 2222; Level 10, CT beer after the run.
Plaza, 60A Truong Son,
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1981; Level 2, Thao Dien SHERATON FITNESS
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Level 7, Hung Vuong
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cgv.vn

BAR STOOL LA HABANA
A
12-year veteran of the Saigon “My place is like your front room or your floridita (VND120,00) or the fruity but not
scene, La Habana maintains back room,” she tells me. “There’s no need to overpowering sangria red (VND120,000).
its charming, Spanish-terrace- dress up or pretend to be something you’re Since her unexpected change in life
inspired premises in District 1. not. Everyone is welcome.” course, it’s been a labour of love for Jane,
Any night of the week, just off the main and something that has attracted people
drag of Hai Ba Trung and along Cao Ba Not Part of the Plan back time and time again.
Quat, you’ll hear live music floating Offering a full list of cocktails and a very “I’ve known some of my customers for
from its cavernous entertainment area. well-equipped bar, getting into this industry more than 10 years,” she explains. “La
On the Thursday night we visited, it was wasn’t something Jane had planned when Habana is a famous name that people
ballad night, and a regular band from the she first came to Vietnam. know in this city. We do swing dancing, we
Philippines were filling the place. “It was unexpected,” the Shanghai native used to do salsa, but basically it stands for
Stepping inside, you feel instantly at says. “My husband and I came on a two-year relaxing good times. That’s why we haven’t
home. That’s because there’s a natural contract, and now 14 years later, we’re still changed too much. I just do my own thing.
warmth to the La Habana front bar you here.” She has a great sense of humour about It’s a lot of work, but we have fun, too.” —
can’t deny, especially at night. In addition, the whole thing, laughing frequently with Jon Aspin
there’s not a hint of the pretention you’ll customers and describing the differences La Habana is at 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, HCMC.
find at Saigon’s newest range of self-styled between her home city and where she is now Besides drinks and live music they serve up
VIP entertainment venues, only a relaxed, as like “coming from Mars”. Spanish and Cuban-inspired cuisine with a
comfortable vibe and a diverse range of As with many bars, there’s a long story small menu of German fare (Jane’s husband in
regulars happy to get involved in actual behind its origin, but you’ll have to buy Jane German). You can book the place for functions
conversation. It’s just the way owner Jane a La Habana special (VND150,000) to get the and the live music starts every night from around
Speeger likes it. whole story, or perhaps the delicious daquiri 9.30pm

HCMC
BARS & CLUBS With a free book exchange, out their daily food specials. LAST CALL
and tasty Sunday night AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
roasts, the tiny Bread & 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
2 LAM SON Butter is a perfect place for EON HELI BAR 3823 3122
(MARTINI BAR) homesick expats and beer LOUNGE BAR lastcallsaigon.com
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL enthusiasts (excellent Hue- Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai If you’re in need of dense,
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Brewed Huda beer served Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750 soulful atmosphere and
Tel: (08) 3824 1234 here exclusively in Ho Chi eon51.com maybe an artisanal cocktail
On The Town saigon.park.hyatt.com

International décor blends
Minh City). Breathtaking views require a
vantage point and EON Heli
on your way back from wher-
ever, Last Call is your stop
seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces BROMA, NOT A BAR
Bar is by far the highest spot
in Saigon for a spectacular
— and fast becoming that of
the similarly inclined. Great DELIVERY
with a wide-ranging drink COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP cityscape, appealing drinks happy hour deals for early
menu and hip dance tunes 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) and a vibrant ambience. evening starters.
to create one of the most 3823 6838 Night live music and DJs. BEN STYLE
tasteful if pricier bars in Broma’s medieval rooftop- Tel: 0906 912730
Saigon. cocktail lounge conglomera- LE PUB www.
tion is a magnet for the city’s GAME ON INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
SPORTS BAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
vietnammm.com/
weirdest and coolest events/
ACOUSTIC BAR 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) Tel: (08) 3837 7679 restaurants-ben-style
random moments. A sophis-
LIVE MUSIC 6251 9898 Warm colors, artsy décor and
ticated cocktail menu and
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: gameonsaigon.com a friendly ambiance combine
quite possibly the best lamb
(08) 3930 2239 A fresh feel thanks to the to create a perfect setting for CHEZ GUIDO
burger in town. Check out large space and light-wood
Though only 1km from the their bun bo Hue-inspired enjoying tasty international Tel: (08) 3898 3747
city centre, Acoustic is well tables makes this Australi- and Vietnamese cuisine.
cocktail. an-influenced watering hole www.chezguido.com
off most foreigners’ radars. Gets busy at weekends with
Come see the Vietnamese a popular bar for televised a clientele made up of hip,
house band play nightly, as sports, pub food, darts, pool young Vietnamese and the
BUDDHA BAR and more. DOMINO’S PIZZA
well as performances from RESTOBAR occasional foreigner.
overseas bands and guest Tel: (08) 3939 3030
7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
artists. 3345 6345
www.dominos.vn
HOA VIEN LONG PHI
Buddhabarsaigon.com CZECH BREWHOUSE
Just across the lane from FRENCH / RESTOBAR
28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
APOCALYPSE NOW Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an EAT.VN
3825 8605
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 3837 2704 www.eat.vn
eccentric European tilt and hoavien.vn French-run but universally
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) some nice, authentic cuisine The original microbrewery,
3825 6124 draws an older crowd with appealing, Long Phi has been
this large, wooden-pan-
apocalypsesaigon.com darts, pool and weekly poker elled, brass-kegged Czech
serving the backpacker area
An institution and the kind of tourneys. with excellent cuisine and
Brewhouse is as popular as HUNGRYPANDA.
place you end up drunk after occasional live music since
it was 15 years ago when VN
midnight. Famed for its not- it was first opened. Does 1990. Excellent late-night
so-salubrious clientele, this CHAMPION SPORTS BAR a great food menu to ac- bistro cuisine. www.hungrypanda.vn
two-floor establishment with SPORTS BAR company the home-brewed
DJs and occasional live music 45-47 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) beer.
is also famed for its hotdogs, MAY RESTAURANT KFC
3920 4202
which are served up in the & BAR
A recent addition to the Tel: (08) 3848 9999
garden terrace out back. ICE BLUE LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR
sports-and-watering-hole
19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) www.kfcvietnam.
drinking scene, Champion EXPAT BAR com.vn
24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 6291 3686
is located in the Backpack- mayrestaurant.com.vn
BIA CRAFT One of this city’s longest run-
ers’ area and shows all the An international comfort-
CRAFT BEER BAR ning watering holes — and
major televised sports. Also
90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) the original home of the food menu mixes with LOTTERIA
3744 2588 has a pool table, darts, tasty excellent cocktails and an
darts league — has recently Tel: (08) 3910 0000
biacraft.com Western and Vietnamese extensive winelist at this
food, great cocktails and ice reopened in its new prem- www.lotteria.vn
As craft beer continues to ises. Naturally, darts are still attractive, international bar
take over watering holes cold beer. Western managed, and restaurant. Dine at the
wonderful local staff. #BeA- key here, with each of the
around Ho Chi Minh City, so bottom three floors having bar or upstairs in the restau-
a bar dedicated to all things Champion. rant space. PIZZA HUT (PHD)
elements devoted to this
‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems Tel: (08) 3838 8388
most pub-friendly of sports.
like a pretty sensible idea, www.pizzahut.vn
right? Well, it is. Only small, CHILL SKYBAR NUMBER FIVE
but with wooden tables per- TOP-END BAR & TERRACE EXPAT BAR
LA HABANA
fect for sharing, both on tap Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, 44 Pasteur, Q1
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR SCOOZI
and by the bottle, Bia Craft Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) The original expat bar, this Tel: (08) 3823 5795
sells up a delectable range of chillsaigon.com 3829 5180 institution of a place gets
For the spectacular views www.scoozipizza.com
the good stuff. Looking for Ti- lahabana-saigon.com packed every night thanks to
ger? Go take a hike. Also has alone, Chill Skybar remains Cuban-themed bar and res- its drinking hall atmosphere,
a decent food menu. the place to go to mix top- taurant selling an exciting attractive bar staff and Ger-
end, outdoor terrace drinking range of Spanish and Cuban man food menu. Has regular TACO BICH
around an oval-shaped bar cuisine, as well as a few Ger- live music. www.tacobich.com
BLANCHY’S TASH with cityscapes of Saigon. man favourites such as curry
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB One of the top watering wurst and Wiener schnitzel.
95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 holes in the city. Nightly live music and regu- OMG! VIETNAMMM
028293 lar salsa classes. FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR www.vietnammm.com
blanchystash.com Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen
A multi-storey bar with décor D2 An Ninh, Q1
and atmosphere more akin SPORTS BAR LA FENETRE SOLEIL A contemporary and attrac-
to such an establishment in 55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR tive rooftop restaurant with
New York or London. Has a 3744 5453 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) a lounge bar just 50m from
reputation for bringing in What does the Thao Dien 3824 5994 Ben Thanh Market. Features
big-name DJs. And when we area of Saigon seriously lack? A seductive watering whole a glass shell modeled in the
say big, we mean big. Check A sports bar. And this is the in a great corner location image of the Eiffel Tower, a
their website for details. Al Fresco Group’s answer to a thanks to its old Saigon jungle-like atmosphere and
distinct shortage hole in the glamour, Japanese-Vietnam- views over central Saigon.
market. Sleek lines, modern ese fusion cuisine, imported
BREAD & BUTTER décor, elegant and spacious, beer, classic cocktails, and
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD dartboards and of course, entertaining music events O’BRIEN’S
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) lots of large screens to watch / DJ sets. IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL
3836 8452 the televised sports. Check 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3829 3198 SAIGON OUTCAST menu. A good place to watch the cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle light-
irish-barsaigon.com EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR live sports. ing and one of the best spirit selections in
This Irish-themed sports bar with 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: town. Serves creative, Japanese and German-
classic pub décor is widely ap- 0122 4283198 influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.
preciated for its excellent interna- Saigonoutcast.com THE CUBE BAR
tional fare, large whiskey selection Up-cycling and innovative design HIP RESTOBAR
and upstairs pool table. Great piz- form the foundation for this bar / 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 VINYL BAR
zas. And for a real treat, check out arts venue / mini-skate park and 369798 MUSIC & SPORTS BAR
their zesty rolls. graffiti space. Come for barbeque facebook.com/thecubesaigon 70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623
and reasonably priced drinks, stick A sleek, industrial looking restobar vinylbarsaigon.com
around for entertaining events and with edgy décor and just a hint A small but popular bar with all the shenani-
ONTOP BAR markets. of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, gans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop
Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Iberian-influenced cocktails and of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 an emphasis on all things Latin. area out back and is a popular space for
Located on the 20th floor with SAIGON RANGER watching the live English Premier League.
stunning views of the city, houses ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
an upscale, contemporary interior 5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) THE OBSERVATORY
and an outdoor terrace. A good 7300 0559 BAR, ART & DJ SPACE WINE BAR 38
venue to chill out in a relaxed and facebook.com/saigonranger 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
casual, yet hip ambience. Aspiring to be a focal point for Elisa Boat) 38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968
artistic activities, the space at Known for its late night parties With a huge selection of self-imported wines
Saigon Ranger has been estab- and focus on international art- from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary
PEACHES lished to create encounter and ists, Observatory is now at a bigger venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge
CURRY PUB dialogue between different forms space in District 4. Complete with on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark a new balcony overlooking the paired to all the wines, with a huge selection
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 wooden furniture, quirky wall de- Saigon River and an even larger of the good stuff sold by the glass.
Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this signs and a stage for live music sound system, The Observatory is
pleasant Saigon South water- and other types of performance. a key node in the Asian under-
ing hole mixes the beer with all ground music circuit. WINE EMBASSY
things curry — anything from Goan CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
fish curries to beef rendangs and SAIGON SAIGON BAR 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827
more. A popular local haunt. LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR THE ORIENT wineembassy.com.vn
9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 19- SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine
23 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at rea-
PHATTY’S 3823 4999 facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon sonable prices. Has an excellent food menu
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS to complement the old and new world wines.
caravellehotel.com An attractive, spacious, brick-wall
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) interior, a long bar, high table seat-
This iconic bar is a great place to
3821 0796 ing, big screens, a pool table and
watch the sun go down over the
phattysbar.com city and relax for a few drinks with live music. A great venue for a few XU
From its roots as the famed Café beers and more. CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR
friends. Has live entertainment six
Latin, Phatty’s has become the go- 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468
nights a week courtesy of resident
to, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports
Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm xusaigon.com
viewing emporium, showing eve- This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known
Wednesday to Monday.
rything from international cricket for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a
to Aussie rules and serving an ar-
ray of pub grub favourites.
SHRINE BAR
LOUNGE BAR
PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL 61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1
SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT
shrinebarsaigon.com
C0.01 Riverside Residence C, Shrine creates a drinking and din- THE SOCIETY
Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) ing experience in a temple-like GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR
6274 1520 atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999
facebook.com/PitchersPMH Srei, a temple from the ancient facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM
Located in the heart of Phu My Angkor kingdom, the walls are Designed as a Laneway-style
Hung, this spacious restobar with covered in statues depicting restobar, the kind of place found
an affection for showing televised ancient Khmer gods and kings. in Hong Kong, London, New York
sports has a family friendly edge With ambient lighting and town or Central Melbourne, thanks to
thanks to its kids play area. Does a tempo music, here it’s all about its indoor and outdoor ambience,
great grill menu and of course, lots good cocktails and an even better The Society brings dining and
of very cold beer for those devel- atmosphere. drinking to a new level. Phenom-
oping a thirst in the Saigon heat. enal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare
and seafood make this a place to
SEVENTEEN SALOON go for drinks, a full-blown meal or
RUBY SOHO THEMED MUSIC BAR a mixture of both.
CARTOON BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08)
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 3914 0007
5410 3900 seventeensaloon.com.vn
A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks Wild West-themed bar doubles THE TAVERN
to its cartoon décor and light but as a music venue, where three EXPAT & SPORTS BAR
fun ambience. Has a reasonable talented Filipino bands (B&U, R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan,
food menu to complement the Wild West and Most Wanted) Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900
drinks. play covers of rock icons like Bon The first bar established in Saigon
Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top South, great food, great music and
shelf spirits and friendly, hostess loads of laughs. Has regular live
SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTY style table service are the name music nights, theme nights and
POOL & DAY CLUB game here. a variety of live sports events to
New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le please everybody. Big screens and
Lai, Q1 outdoor seating add to the mix,
saigonsoul.com STORM P with BBQs available for parties
The ultimate in poolside entertain- DANISH / INTERNATIONAL and events.
ment, Saigon Soul is defined by 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
its great party atmosphere. Boom- 4738
ing house music, cold drinks and Stormp.vn VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE
beautiful people. What better way Named after the Danish artist INTERNATIONAL
to spend a Saturday? Runs every Storm P, this long-running bar is Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc
Saturday from late November until the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698
mid May. community thanks to its laid-back facebook.com/vespersaigon
atmosphere and excellent food A sophisticated yet down-to-earth

COFFEE CUP KLASIK COFFEE ROASTERS
PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN
N
estled on the street corner between temperature in cold water for over 18 hours. enjoy the moment to the soundtrack of
Mac Thi Buoi and Phan Van Dat, Then the mixture is filtered through a paper gentle background music.
from the streetfront Klasik Coffee coffee filter or cloth to become cold-brew
Roasters looks simple and modest. coffee. But to make it look like dark beer Not just a Café
Yet walk inside and the space is equipped with the foamy effect, the extract needs to be If the first floor is mainly for coffee, the second
with classic French-style chairs and tables infused with nitrogen gas. floor is a shared room for coffee and food with
in harmony with the contemporary décor, Accompanied by an option of four extra the kitchen set up out back. Understanding
all giving a cozy and tranquil ambience. flavours including salted caramel, hazelnut, the nature of coffee, Klasik has designed
There were a couple of people in the café, butter rum and spicy cheesecake, this dishes that not only can fit with the taste of
mostly working. I settled in a corner and complex drink is priced at VND50,000. “But coffee but are also good for your health.
started looking at the drinks list. if you want to have wholesale deals with us, The food menu has a range of options
you’re welcome,” said Thiep. including salad, spaghetti, noodles and
Coffee on Tap burgers. I ordered duck and cucumber salad
Like other coffee shops, Klasik offers a wide For the Purists (VND135,000) and smoked salmon baguette
range of coffee from basic to house creative While regular coffee is a blend from various (VND110,000) as I hadn’t had breakfast and
blends. But I always love something a sources, single-origin coffee is coffee that my watch was already showing 1pm.
little different — the Nitro Cold Brew was comes from one location. It could be from a A meal can’t be completed without a
outstanding. With its froth on the top, looks- single farm or a whole country. Each single- dessert, so I indulged in a passion fruit
wise it is similar to a dark, German-style origin coffee has unique flavours formed by cheesecake (VND40,000). The sourness from
beer. Yet that’s where the similarity ends. its regional water source, soil and weather. the topping blended with the sweetness of
Made from cold coffee run out from taps Going with the trend, Klasik is introducing the cheese. Adding the bitterness from a sip
that create a thick layer of foam, if you find single-origin coffee imported from Asia, of coffee, the combination was divine.
Vietnamese traditional filtered coffee heavy Oceania, Africa, South and Central America Klasik has a distinctive style and sense
and thick, this is much fresher, lighter and to satisfy the more fastidious clients. of creativity; they are clearly working hard
very, very smooth. “For the best taste, it should be used as to understand their customers’ needs. I’ll
According to the owner Thiep, a cup either espresso or in a drip,” Thiep advised. definitely be coming back. — Vu Ha Kim Vy
of Nitro Cold Brew takes a lot of time to You can buy one bag of single-origin coffee Klasik Coffee Roaster is located at 40 Mac Thi
prepare. After being roasted and ground, and try it at home or simply grab a cup Buoi, Q1, HCMC. Visit klasik.coffee for more
the coarse-ground beans are soaked at room starting from VND75,000 at the café and info and promotions

AMAZING GRAPES WOMEN & WINE BY JIM CAWOOD
T
he wine industry is a very male open-minded and willing to try new
dominated world. All facets of products based on promotions or attractive
production, appreciation and labels than men are.
sales have traditionally been Occasionally there are also just lucky
the domain of men. This has, of course, accidents. At the turn of the century, Spanish
undergone a considerable change in recent producer Maetierra set about reviving native
years, and the wine business is becoming white grape varieties like Muscat à Petit
much more balanced. But wine styles and Grains that had been all but wiped out by
marketing are still very much skewed phyloxera. They wanted to create a modern,
towards attracting male consumers. fresh expression of the variety that was
In fact, more than half (56%) of food-friendly called Libalis. They did — the
wine drinkers in Western countries are wine was very good — but the packaging
women. While average individual female was tired and old-fashioned and the variety
consumption is lower than for men, women un-trendy. The wine struggled.
still account for the majority of retail Then, rather than try and educate and
purchases. What’s more, women drink lecture the public as to why the wine was
wine more in social situations than men. good, they decided to create a label that
Traditionally the wine industry has created expressed how they would like to see the
“Traditionally the wine industry has created

the idea that in order to enjoy wine you must
be able to appreciate and collect it. Women
have decided that in order to enjoy wine all
you need is some good friends”
the idea that in order to enjoy wine you wine enjoyed; in a fun, happy-go-lucky sort
must be able to appreciate and collect it. of way. The new packaging connected with
Women have decided that in order to enjoy female consumers and sales took off. Not
wine all you need is some good friends. just a pretty bottle, Libalis has won many
Vietnam is no exception. 15 years ago it awards around the world including at two
was rare to see Vietnamese women drinking special wine shows which are judged only
in public. The whole drinking culture by women, AMAVI in Spain and Sakura in
was a very ‘males only’ event, involving Japan.
drinking ‘mot tram phan tram’ until you The point in all this is, I suppose, that
could no longer walk. The fastest growing conventional wine culture promotes
wine-drinking demographic here is females consuming rare and expensive bottles, to
between the ages of 20 and 35. They are show off with wine knowledge and to taste.
young, well-educated (often abroad), hold Not enough time is spent promoting the
good corporate or professional jobs, are social aspect of drinking a bottle of wine
not yet married and — unlike their parents with good friends, catching up, talking
— have disposable income. Drinking and enjoying one another’s company. This
wine in Vietnam is still associated with does not mean that women appreciate or
sophistication, worldliness and success; all understand wine any less than men, but that
the things that today’s young Vietnamese they are more attuned to realise that it tastes
businesswomen aspire to. much better when shared with others.
Where’s Your Head At? Libalis Muscat 2014

It is perhaps odd, then, that wine marketers This is dangerously drinkable and at 11.5%
have not latched onto this. Maybe the alcohol it won’t knock you on the head.
industry is still stuck on the notion of light, Slightly off-dry with ripe peach, mango and
fruity, sweet wines as “chicks’ drinks” rambutan fruit flavours. It has a long, full
and that real wine is the domain of men. bodied finish. A great wine for spicy Asian
I, for one, know of plenty cases where curries and Vietnamese salads.
the opposite is the case, where wine style Jim Cawood is a trained sommelier and
preference is not related to gender. But it is presently man-at-the-helm at District 2
Alcoholic volume: 11.5%. Made in Spain is also true that women tend to be more restaurant, Lubu

HCMC
range of international and COFFEE BEAN & Thanh Market, i.d offers cas- immense local culture, done facebook.com/TheOtherPer-
Vietnamese dishes to be en- TEA LEAF ual café dining with a wide with a modern flare. Be seen sonCafe
joyed in its richly decorated INTERNATIONAL variety of food and bever- here at one of the latest pop- Fancy being served up by
interior. Regular DJ nights. 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, ages. Where modern design ular joint in town. maids in costume? Call for
Q1; Metropolitan Building, and a warm ambience meet a booking and enjoyed cus-
M M M 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 for coffee. tomized service to your liking
coffeebean.com.vn MOCKINGBIRD CAFE while spending an afternoon
CAFES & ICE-CREAM Large portioned coffee lures 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, in this candy-land inspired
On The Town (A) CAFE

customers into the flagship
store of this international
café chain. The contempo-
Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbird-
coffee
cafe.
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da rary, yet generic atmosphere Sitting atop of a number of THE PRINT ROOM
Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 is bolstered by comfortable cafe establishments in an old CONTEMPORARY CAFE
Settle into the Javanese- seating and a menu to sat- apartment complex, Mock- 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
style interior and enjoy pos- isfy any sweet tooth. ingbird is just the place for 3823 4990
sibly one of the best brews a romantic time over mojitos, Second-storey coffeehouse
in Saigon. Using own grown KLASIK COFFEE ROASTERS or good ol’ caffeine-infused offers a quiet atmosphere to
and specially sourced Dalat DECIBEL CAFE AND ON-SITE ROASTING relaxation. chill out or read from their
beans, speciality coffee such INTERNATIONAL 40 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) book-nook collection. Com-
as cold drip, siphon, and 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: 6685 4160 fortable couch seating, open
Chemex are must haves for (08) 6271 0115 klasik.coffee PLANTRIP CHA table space and a cappuc-
the avid coffee drinker. Decibel.vn Nitro cold brew coffee, sin- TEA ROOM cino costs VND40,000.
Trendy without pretense, gle origin coffee and healthy 8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
this two-floor, relaxed café food. Klasik Coffee Roasters Tel: 0945 830905
AGNES CAFE offers beautiful decor and is a small coffee shop with Tea, tea and more tea, all in THINGS CAFE
DALAT COFFEE HOUSE unique original events like a passion for seeking high a contemporary, quirky en- 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) live music, film screenings, quality coffee beans from vironment. At Plantrip Cha Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
6281 9772 and art exhibits. Great prices around the world to roast customers go on a sensory facebook.com/thingscafe
A cozy and comfortable cafe and food with daily specials. in Saigon. Holding the belief journey to experience the Feel the calm and serenity
in Thao Dien serving excel- that each cup tells its own tastes and smells of teas of this rustic little quiet cor-
lent fresh coffee from Dalat, story, drinking coffee at from across Asia, Europe, ner tucked away in an Old
smoothies, juices, home- GUANABANA SMOOTHIES Klasik is all about pleasure America and the Middle East. Apartment. The quaint and
made desserts. Offers up CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR and experience: the aroma, relaxing atmosphere sets for
tasty breakfasts, lunch and 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 the taste, the warmth and the some alone time, or quality
dinner all the way through 824830 senses inspired by each and THE LOOP conversations held over a
until 9pm. guanabanasmoothies.com every cup. Open daily from HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS drink or two.
An American-style juice 7am to 10pm. 49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)
bar and café dedicated 3602 6385 EAT
BANKSY CAFE to healthy, nutricious Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, smoothies that avoid the lo- décor helps create the café-
Tel: 01699 990003 cal obsession with sugar and L’USINE style atmosphere at this Eu- 3T QUAN NUONG
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com condensed milk. A pleasant, CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH ropean-influenced café and VIETNAMESE BBQ
A small but swanky cafe, contemporary environment First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, restaurant. Sells excellent Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep,
Banksy promises a young adds to the theme. Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le coffee and if you like bagels, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631
and vibrant hideout in an Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703 here you’ll be in heaven. The original, on-the-table
old 1960s-era apartment lusinespace.com barbecue restaurant still
building. Remember to head HIDEAWAY French-style wooden decor goes strong thanks to its
up the steep stairs within to INTERNATIONAL compliments the spacious, THE MORNING CAFE rooftop atmosphere, excel-
dig into their secret stash of 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, whitewashed contemporary 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: lent service and even better
clothes and accessories. Tel: (08) 3822 4222 interior of L’Usine. A simple, 0938 383330 fish, seafood and meats. An
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com creative menu combines themorningcafe.com.vn institution.
Hidden in a colonial building with reasonably priced cof- Have a book to read? Pick
CAFE THOAI VIEN with an outdoor courtyard, fee, and a fashion store and a bright spot by the win-
159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, the ample soft, sofa seat- art gallery out back. Second dow and get snuggly with 27 GRILL
Tel: 0918 115657 ing renders a great spot to location on Le Loi. the comfy upholstery in GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT
cafethoaivien.com relax. The mouth-watering this second-floor cafe. With Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai,
Veer off the street and find western menu is well-priced a cup of well-brewed cof- Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
yourself plunging straight and maintains a creative flair. M2C CAFE fee, accompanied by some chillsaigon.com
into lush greenery. Cafe 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) background jazz, it is an Besides the spectacular
Thoai Vien serves up a 3822 2495 afternoon well-spent. views, the cuisine at 27 Grill
spacious and airy setting I.D. CAFÉ facebook.com/m2ccafe is a real draw, with steaks
to enjoy a quiet sip. From CONTEMPORARY CAFE At M2C (Modern Meets and other international grill-
small eats to big bites and 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: Culture), everything gets a THE OTHER style fare in a refined yet con-
everything to drink, it’s a (08) 3822 2910 touch of modernity. From PERSON CAFE temporary atmosphere. Sub-
great place to unwind from Idcafe.net the rich menu of Vietnam- 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, tle lighting and an extensive
all that buzz. Centrally located near Ben ese food and drinks, shows Q1, Tel: 0909 670272 wine list make up the mix.

KNOW YOUR CITY THE EXPAT GHETTO BY ED HAYSOM
W
hen I first arrived in Ho extraordinary density of the buildings. It values have been proven to be successful. It
Chi Minh City I didn’t fully would not be seen as desirable in other cities is known as the ‘Japanese Ghetto’ as many
appreciate the layers and — perhaps seen as a generator of crime — but Japanese and Korean expats have made their
complexity of the city. in fact it is quite safe with a distinct charm, home there, supported by stores, restaurants,
In trying to make sense of the city I while supporting a wide range of other bars and spas catering to their needs.
decided that on Sundays I would take an uses, particularly at street level, such as bars, The original mix of residential to
area, walk it and document it to give me restaurants, massage places and retail. commercial was 80% residential to 20%
some understanding of what made it work. Whereas western urban design and commercial. Now that ratio has changed to
At the time I was working in Dong Du, so planning methodology promotes separation 60:40 reflecting the interest in the area. Tiny
the area bounded by Le Thanh Ton, Ton Duc of buildings for fire health and amenity homes easily sell for over US$250,000 drawn
Thang and Hai Ba Trung seemed like a good reasons, the buildings here ignore all of that. by the fact that the uses in the “ghetto”
place to start as it was close and has a good The accompanying map, indicating built are mixed and those mixtures are largely
character about it. form and open space, gives an idea of the compatible. There is always plenty of life
I didn’t realise that it had a racy past with density. The map is based on the work of in the alleyways and the small scale of the
girly bars featuring in run-down tenements. If Italian architect and surveyor Giambattista uses — largely brought about due to the
I had thought about it a little more that would Nolli who mapped Rome in 1736. tight spaces — means that the uses are in
have made sense as the area was once home proportion to the area (it would be impossible
to French naval personnel. In the American to have a large bar in there).
war the US personnel replaced the French but In many ways — flawed as it is — it is a
the game was the same. model for the future of the city. That people
Thi Sach street runs from the Children’s enjoy the close proximity, the absence of
Hospital (formerly barracks for the French motor vehicles, the sense of community that
soldiers) down to the port — to allow fast the ghetto gives, is an indication of how a
mobilisation for the French forces housed city like Ho Chi Minh City may evolve and
there. The street now contains a number of develop a distinct character that represents
elegant hotels. Thai Van Lung runs parallel Vietnam rather than another western city.
to it and while still supporting some hotels, A great city should be generous in its
retains vestiges of the bar trade it once was In Close Proximity offerings to all types of people, young and
famous for. So why does it work? Probably for a old, rich and poor. The building programme
After the war the area between Thai Van number of reasons. It is right inside District that settles many people in high-rise towers
Lung and Le Thanh Ton was deeded to 1, so values are high, attracting the expat is understandable, however urban design is
the Navy and most of the bars and houses who enjoys (and tolerates) the close urban also about building communities and right
were cleared out. What replaced some of it spaces. That in turn supports the small inside District 1 is an excellent example of
proved to be incredibly interesting and its bars and boutique restaurants, which in how this can be achieved and be successful.
development is relatively recent. turn encourages more like-minded expats. Ed Haysom is the general director of Mode
In that precinct is one of the most I am not trying to make a correlation / Haysom Architects and is based in Ho Chi
unusual residential areas I have ever come between income and crime, but rather that Minh City. You can contact him on ehaysom@
across. It shouldn’t work at all — due to the homogenous communities sharing common modehaysomarchitects.com

HCMC
AL FRESCO’S lar park-side Le Duan loca- BLANCHY STREET This affable café is a rarity EL GAUCHO
INTERNATIONAL tion with classic cream and JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN in the backpacker area for ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) green-tiled décor. The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba its genuinely good musical 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
38238424 Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 playlist. Excellent, build- 3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The
alfrescosgroup.com The work of former Nobu your-own breakfasts, baked Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7,
The downtown outlet of one BABA’S KITCHEN chef Martin Brito, the Japa- potatoes, toasties, Vietnam- Tel: (08) 5413 6909
of Vietnam’s most successful NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN nese-South American fusion ese fare and more. Has a elgaucho.com.vn
restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) cuisine at Blanchy Street popular motorbike rental A themed eatery mixing
On The Town offers international, Aus-

tralian-influenced comfort
fare in a pleasant environ-
3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian
is among the tastiest and
most unusual in the city. All
complemented by fresh, con-
service. an Argentinian steakhouse
theme with pork, chicken,
lamb, homemade spicy sau-
ment with efficient, friendly does the full range of fare temporary decor and a leafy CIAO BELLA sage, skewers, burger dish-
service to match. Also has from all ends of the subcon- terrace out front. NEW YORK-ITALIAN es and everything that can
an excellent garden-style tinent, from dosas and va- 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) come off a grill. Slick service,
branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2. das through to chicken tikka 3822 3329 a good wine menu, and cara-
masala, kormas, kebabs and BOAT HOUSE saigonrestaurantgroup.com mel vodka teasers at the end
fiery vindaloos. Has a deliv- AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL New York-style Italian restau- of the meal. Probably serves
ASHOKA ery outlet in District 2. 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior rant offering a range of tasty up the best steak in town.
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, and affordable antipasti, pas-
17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: Tel: (08) 3744 6790 tas, and pizzas. Friendly staff
(08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu BLACK CAT A revamp has seen this riv- and rustic bare brick walls EON51 FINE DINING
Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 AMERICAN erside restaurant get a new adorned with Hollywood film TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN
ashokaindianrestaurant. 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) management and a new legends make for a relaxed Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai
com 3829 2055 menu — think American-style and attractive setting. Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750
Long-running, award-winning blackcatsaigon.com burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex eon51.com
Indian restaurant famed for Creatively named burgers, together with soup and salad Situated on level 51 of the
its excellent kebabs, creamy tasty Vietnamese-styled and you’ll get the idea. Ex- CORIANDER most iconic building in
curries and Chinese-Indian sandwiches, spiced up cellent nachos and frozen THAI / VIETNAMESE town, Eon51 Fine Dining
fare. cocktails, mains and more, margaritas. 16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) offers a unique fine dining
all served up with a Califor- 3837 1311 experience accompanied by
nian edge at this small but A small, homely Vietnamese- unparalleled 3600 pictur-
popular two-storey eatery BOOMARANG BISTRO owned Thai restaurant that esque views of Saigon. The
close to the river. SAIGON over the past decade has sky-high restaurant proffers
AU LAC DO BRAZIL INTERNATIONAL / GRILL quite rightly gained a strong the taste of Europe in Asia,
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, local and expat following. Try orchestrated from the finest
238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) their pad thai — to die for. local foods and top-quality
7157 5413 6592 imported ingredients.
aulacdobrazil.com boomarang.com.vn
Au Lac Do Brazil is home to Australian themed but Sin- CORSO
the city's best Churrasco gaporean-owned eatery and STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL GANESH
menu with a wide variety of bar on The Crescent with 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN
meats from Calabrian sau- BAHDJA great terraced seating spe- (08) 3829 5368 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
sage and picanha through 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 cializing in huge-portioned norfolkhotel.com.vn 3823 4786
to D-rump steak and smoked Tel: 0122 763 1261 international fare, all set in Although a hotel restaurant, ganesh.restaurant.vn@hot-
hams. Pioneering the eat-as- bahdjarestaurant@gmail. a contemporary, spacious the enticing range of US and mail.com
much-as-you-can theme in com environment. Australian steaks plus great The ubiquitous mint sauce
Vietnam, passadors bring Located just above the Thai grill and comfort food menu is thick and creamy and the
the meat skewers to your restaurant Spice, Bahdja is in this contemporary eat- curries are both authentic
table, and you, the customer Saigon’s first ever Algerian CAFÉ IF ery make for a quality bite. and smoky. Ganesh is rated
then choose your accompa- restaurant, serving authen- VIETNAMESE FRENCH Decent-sized steaks start at by many as the best Indian
niments from the salad bar. tic, multi-ethnic Berber 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) VND390,000. in town. Very friendly service.
Best washed down with red North African and Mediter- 3846 9853
wine or a caipirinha or five. ranean cuisine cooked and MSG-free traditional Vi-
served in a traditional Alge- etnamese cuisine with a ELBOW ROOM HOA TUC
rian style. Best experienced French twist, cooked fresh to AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
in a group, this pleasant order. Dishes include noodle 52 Pasteur, Q1 The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba
AU PARC restaurant’s soothing ambi- soup, steamed ravioli and Tel: (08) 3821 4327 Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676
EUROPEAN / CAFÉ ence is matched by the own- beef stew, stir fries, hot pots elbowroom.com.vn Highly rated restaurant with
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) ers’ genuine hospitality and and curries. The comfort food on of- stunning outdoor terrace.
3829 2772 complimented by an array of fer at this striking US-style Specialities include pink
auparcsaigon.com tasty tajines and couscous- diner ranges from meatball pomelo squid and crab sal-
Consistently tasty European based dishes. Has a lovely CHI’S CAFÉ baguettes to chilli burgers, ad, mustard leaf prawn rolls,
café fare — think deli-style semi-outdoor terrace area. INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE pizzas, blackened chicken fishcake wraps and barbecue
sandwiches, salads and 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) salads and a selection of chicken in ginger, onions and
mezzes, plus coffees and 3837 2502 more expensive international a lime leaf marinade.
juices — served at a popu- Chiscafe.com mains.

TOP EATS LE CORTO
I
’ve eaten at Le Corto three times, the Located on the site that was formerly Brown’s Schooldays so wonderfully revived
first two times with the owners. On occupied by the first El Gaucho in by Scottish novelist George MacDonald
the third occasion I went unannounced Vietnam, it retains echoes of the past. As Fraser, in his series of adventure novels in
with a friend. What I was told before the friend said: “I always liked the upstairs the 1960s and 1970s.
turned out to be correct; thanks to their room in El Gaucho”. What the new owners “He’s an adventurer,” explains Jean-
reasonably priced set lunch (VND180,000 have done with it has made the space at Marcel Guillon, one of the team behind
for two courses, VND250,000 for three), least as appealing as before. Le Corto. “He likes women but is not a
even their lunchtimes are busy at the Bypassing the set lunch — we were both womaniser. He’s elegant and cosmopolitan
moment. It was a Tuesday and we were on a health trip — we ordered soup and but not fashionable, but is passionate
lucky to get a table. salad. I settled for French onion soup (not so and has friends everywhere. Cats are
Every time I meet this friend, a corporate healthy) and the salade Lyonnaise, while my his favourite animal. He smokes, as well
expat who has lived in both Hanoi and Ho friend ordered the cauliflower soup and the — mainly small cigarettes that he rolls
Chi Minh City, we try out a new restaurant. salade de printemps. As we waited for the food himself. Le Corto was a name that nobody
With Le Corto he was suitably impressed. to arrive, I started raving about my last visit. had, and it was a name that had a sound...
There’s something about the charcoal-grey He’s a character who fits very well with
walls and black ceiling, the velvet-covered From Cartoon to Cuisine what we want to do.”
couches, the wooden or marble-topped The restaurant is named after the comic Le Thu, one of the other faces behind the
tables and the ambience of both classic yet character created by cartoonist Hugo Pratt new venture, adds: “That’s why we used
contemporary, French-influenced décor that in 1967. Corto Maltese is the French version the black cat in our logo. He loves cats. And
makes it a pleasant place to dine. of Flashman, the character from Tom that’s why black is a big part of the décor.”

Time to Indulge inside. Mixed together and drunk with a wine by the bottle starting at VND600,000.
To a backdrop of jazzy, loungy tunes from glass of French red, the dish was divine. In a town where prices can sometimes get
the likes of Aretha Franklin, Peter Cincotti, The dessert, the iced nougat with a red extortionate, it’s a refreshing change.
Ronny Jordan and Eliane Elias, our meal fruit sauce (VND195,000) was equally good But most important is the variety. Top-
started — naturally — with the au torchon — a wonderful end to an indulgent meal. end French fare is all about indulgence,
foie gras (VND320,000). Served with brown Crunchy and yet soft all in one mouthful, but on our lunchtime visit we were able
bread toast, roasted black garlic, beetroot the result was a sweet-and-sour style to go the opposite route by opting for
jelly and vegetables julienne, the foie gras dessert made even more moreish thanks to soup and salad. To me this suggests not
was wonderfully smooth — musty, smoky, the chocolate sugar on the side. only flexibility but also a desire to provide
melt in your mouth, a perfect match for the something for everyone. You can eat
crunch of the toast and the vegetables. Eaten Striking a Balance heavy cuisine, or you can go light; you
with the sweet black garlic, the complexion One thing that struck me about the menu can eat fish, seafood, vegetarian or meat.
changed, the combination of sweet and — put together by award-winning French From my experience, the ability to have
smoky exploding on the palate. chef and co-owner Sakal Phoeung — was a menu adapted to the taste and desires
This was followed by the ris de veau the pricing. Here it’s based on the cost of different customers is vital for keeping
(VND490,000) or veal sweetbreads served of the ingredients. So some mains go diners happy. Le Corto does this with
up with morel mushrooms and crushed for as little as VND220,000, while others aplomb. — Nick Ross
potatoes. Served up with a creamy sauce such as the Black Angus Rossini reach Le Corto is at 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, HCMC,
bursting with truffle, the veal was crispy VND880,000. The wine menu, mixing old Tel: (08) 3822 0671. You can find them online
on the outside, soft and succulent on the world and new, is equally well priced, with at facebook.com/lecorto

HCMC
HOANG YEN KOH THAI LE JARDIN a darkwood, aircon interior. NINETEEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION CLASSIC FRENCH Subtle lighting and an atten- INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) tion to details is matched by Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel,
3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 3825 8465 some of the best contempo- 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) Modern Thai fusion restau- Unpretentious but tasty rary cuisine in the city, all (08) 3823 4999
2210 2304 rant serving Thai classics French fare in a relaxed gar- with a European influence. caravellehotel.com
If you’re looking for mid- alongside tom yam cappuc- den setting within the French Also has an extensive wine One of the top three buf-
range, aircon Vietnamese cinos and more. Koh Thai’s cultural centre. The robust, list, a good selection of im- fet restaurants in town.
On The Town restaurants that just seem

to do every dish perfectly,
then Hoang Yen really is the
creative cocktails merge Thai
flavours with local seasonal
fruits and herbs.
bistro-style cuisine is very
well-priced, and excellent,
cheap house wine is served
ported beers and a happy
hour.
Although the selection is
small, the meats, fishes and
seafoods are all fresh, and
place to go. The atmosphere by the carafe. everything you eat here is
may be a bit sterile, but its MARKET 39 quality.
amply made up for by the ef- KOTO TRAINING INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
ficient service and excellent RESTAURANT LION CITY Ground Floor, InterContinen-
cuisine. Now with a number CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE SINGAPOREAN tal Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai OSAKA RAMEN
of restaurants around town. 3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: JAPANESE NOODLES
Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3823 8371 (08) 3520 9999 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04,
(08) 3822 9357 lioncityrestaurant.com intercontinental.com/saigon Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu
HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ The restaurant associated Friendly, authentic five- My Hung, Q7
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL with the KOTO vocational storey Singaporean eatery, If you fancy dosing out on ra-
Ground Floor, Bitexco Finan- training school. All the plating up the likes of nasi MAY RESTAURANT men and soba noodles, then
cial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: staff — from bar tenders lemak, mee rebus, and INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD Osaka Ramen is noodle soup
(08) 3915 6066 and waiting staff through awesome chicken curry, as 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: heaven. A typically Japanese
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn to the chefs — come from well as specialities like frog (08) 6291 3686 aircon environment mixes
Mixing hearty pub grub such disadvantaged backgrounds porridge, chilli crab and fish may.restaurant19@gmail. bar-style seating with booths
as burgers, salads and prime and are being trained on the head curry. com and private dining. Open late.
rib steaks with a sports bar jon in hospitality. Serves up Casual yet stylish, May places
atmosphere, this Australian tasty Vietnamese cuisine, international-style wining
chain also offers regular to boot! LOVEAT and dining in the heart of PACHARAN
promotions and a 4pm to MEDITERRANEAN historic Saigon. Subtle light- SPANISH / EUROPEAN
7pm happy hour. Excellent 29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) ing, comfortable seating, an 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
outdoor terrace. L’OLIVIER 6260 2727 extensive wine and cocktail 3825 6924
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN loveat.vn list, and beautifully crafted Legs of Iberian ham hang in
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Located bang opposite the comfort food from Europe, the downstairs bar at this
INAHO Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves the Antipodes and Asia all multi-story bodega serving
SUSHI / SASHIMI sofitel.com up three floors’ worth of make up the mix at this mul- Spanish-styled tapas. At-
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: Exuding a southern Gallic Mediterranean cuisine mixed ti-floored restaurant and bar. tractively decorated in warm
(08) 3829 0326 atmosphere with its tiled in with continental favourites Check out their set lunches reds, yellows and oranges,
A sushi bar needs a good veranda, pastel-coloured like moules frites. A great and happy hour. Pacharan’s food menu is
chef, and the chef-owner of walls and ficus trees, this place for dinner, cocktails traditionally Spanish.
Inaho is one of the best. Sit traditional French restaurant and wines in a contemporary
downstairs at the low-key has quarterly Michelin star Saigon atmosphere.
bar or upstairs in the private promotions and an award MEKONG MERCHANT PENDOLASCO
VIP rooms. Either way, this winning pastry team. INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / PAN-ITALIAN
is one of the best sushi and LU BU SEAFOOD 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
sashimi joints in town. CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh,
LA CUISINE 97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) (08) 3744 6478 Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 6281 8371 info@mekongmerchant.com pendolasco.vn
JASPA’S WINE & GRILL 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) luburestaurant.com The rustic looking, banana- Opening out into a large,
INTERNATIONAL FUSION 2229 8882 Drawing inspiration from the leaf roofed Mekong Merchant leafy terracotta-tiled garden
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba lacuisine.com.vn great cuisines of Europe, The has long been the place in area, this trattoria-style Ital-
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 This intimate, open-kitch- Mediterranean and The Ori- An Phu. Set around a cobble- ian restaurant serves up
Alfrescosgroup.com ened restaurant bathed in ent, this contemporary, Aus- stoned courtyard the cuisine quality homemade pasta,
Although a chain restaurant, white specialises in a mix tralian-run restaurant bathed includes gourmet seafood risotto, gnocchi, excellent
the international offerings of contemporary Mediter- in white focuses on whole- and pastas. Bakery-style pizza and grilled dishes. Has
here are consistently good ranean and French cuisine. some, fresh ingredients, with Bistro out front. a second branch in District 2.
and creative. Excellent ser- Has a small but well thought breads, cheeses, pickles,
vice, an attractive outdoor out menu, backed up with pastas and preserves made
terrace area, and a good an extensive wine list. on site daily from scratch. A MONSOON PITCHERS SPORTS
kids menu. Check out their well-conceived wine list sup- PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN AND GRILL
pepper steaks. plements the excellent fare. 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT
LE CORTO Has petanque on the terrace. 6290 8899 C0.01 Riverside Residence C,
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH Traditional pan-Southeast Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel:
KABIN 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) Asian favourites served in (08) 6274 1520
CANTONESE 3822 0671 LUONG SON a visually arresting setting facebook.com/PitchersPMH
Renaissance Riverside Hotel, facebook.com/LeCorto PAN-VIETNAMESE within a French colonial-era Located in the heart of Phu
8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: Open for lunch and set din- 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) villa, just minutes from the My Hung, this spacious
(08) 3822 0033 ner, this beautifully designed 3825 1330 backpacker area. Reasonably restobar with an affection
marriott.com restaurant and bar seamless- A typical Vietnamese-style priced, with healthy juices for showing televised sports
ly mixes contemporary and quan nhau, this fan-cooled and smoothies. has a family friendly edge
Offers authentic, gourmet
with classic. With a menu downtown eating and drink- thanks to its kids play area.
Cantonese cuisine in an el-
cooked up by reputed chef ing haunt is famed for two Does a great grill menu and
egant, classic setting, with
striking décor and the bo- Sakal Phoeung, and with a things: it’s on the table, NAM GIAO of course, lots of very cold
contemporary twist to tradi- grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo HUE CUISINE beer for those developing a
nus of views over the Sai-
tional French fare, this is a (marinated beef) and oddi- 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: thirst in the Saigon heat.
gon River. Dishes range from
VND80,000 to VND900,000. place to enjoy the luxuries ties such as sautéed scor- (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong
of fine cuisine and even finer pion. A great place to take Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08)
PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY
wine. out-of-town guests. 3925 9996 PIZZA 4P’S

namgiao.com EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
If you want to take friends, 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
MAD HOUSE relatives or people out of (08) 3822 9838
CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR, town to eat Hue-style street pizza4ps.com
RESTAURANT food in a hygienic yet down- This quirky but highly rated
6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: to-earth environment, Nam Italian / Japanese fusion piz-
(08) 3519 4009 Giao is the place. Not only za parlour serves wacky yet
facebook.com/madsaigon is it well-priced, but the bun delicious pies such as tuna
Set over a pool in a leafy, bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com curry pizza and calamari sea-
tropical garden, the beautiful hen, banh bot loc and other weed pizza, as well as more
rustic décor is matched by such dishes are excellent. traditional varieties.

POP FRIES grill-obsessed diners going Tel: (08) 3823 9513 SHRI
CALIFORNIAN-STYLE FRIES for the burgers, meats off sanfulou.com CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
14M Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: the barbecue and Platinum Open until 3am, this popu- 23rd Floor, Centec Tower,
0938 754251; 273 Phan Xich pale ale served on tap. lar, contemporary Cantonese 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0938 dining hall mixes contempo- Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
754851 rary with traditional, in a A breezy terrace, indoor bar
A street food eatery concept space that takes Chinese and separate dining room
that originates from Los dining in Saigon to a new with sweeping views over
Angeles and New York, and level. And if you like your central Saigon make up
born from a passion for shar- RELISH & SONS dim sum, look no further. this enormous, comfortable
ing, here it’s all about the RACHA ROOM GOURMET BURGER BAR space. A well-thought out
loaded fries. The potatoes CONTEMPORARY THAI RESTOBAR 44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel (08) 6291 8187 and romantic venue, with
are twice-cooked and come 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) relishandsons.com SEOUL HOUSE excellent food.
piled high with a range of in- 6253 7711 Relish & Sons burgers are KOREAN
ventive toppings. Funky dé- theracharoom.com lovingly made with a healthy 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
cor and long benches make The Racha Room delivers food philosophy in mind and 3829 4297
up the mix. Thai accented Pan-Asian fresh high quality ingredi- seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
cuisine with a focus on high ents. The beef patties are The longest running Korean
quality ingredients. Racha 100% Australian grass-fed; restaurant in town, with all
PROPAGANDA features a large selection of the buns are made with a the Koreans moving out to the
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO spirits at a seated bar and reduced sugar and salt con- hinterland, the clientele here
21 Han Thuyen, Q1 high table to ensure drinking tent. Burger relishes such are mainly Vietnamese. For- STOKER
Part of the group that in- along with eating remains as chutneys are all made in- tunately the food preparation CONTEMPORARY STEAKHOUSE
cludes Au Parc and Refinery, central to the experience. house from scratch. remains traditional. An excel- 44 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08)
Propaganda serves up classic The current and future of lent place for group dining. 3826 8691
Vietnamese cuisine in an at- Asian-inspired drinking and stokerwoodfiredgrill.com
mosphere of barebrick walls dining is right here at the One of the world’s oldest
interposed with Propaganda Racha Room. SAFFRON SHANG PALACE culinary techniques — grill-
Art murals and prints. PAN-MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT ing over a wood fire. Stoker
51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE kitchen uses different woods
3824 8358 Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly to infuse foods with different
QUAN BUI REFINERY Sporting food from around Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 smoky flavours. These tech-
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL the Mediterranean rim, this 2221 niques revolutionize live fire
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, compact and cozy eatery shangpalace.com.vn cooking by providing precise
Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 with pots hung from the ceil- Featuring over 200 dishes heat control through the
Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 therefinerysaigon.com ing is a popular choice with and 50 kinds of dim sum use of a grilling surface that
1515 A slightly retro feel pervades expats and tourists alike. prepared by chefs from Hong can be adjusted to different
Make sure to try the sautéed this popular French-style bis- Reservations advised. Kong, Shang Palace has nine cooking heights above the
shrimps with cashew nuts tro and wine bar which once private dining rooms and hot coals.
and crispy fried tofu with housed the city’s opium re- a main dining area seating
lime wedge, at this popular, finery. The cuisine runs from SAIGON CAFÉ over 300. Good for events.
high-quality, chicly designed creative salads through to INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
eatery where all food is Mediterranean influenced Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Ho- SORAE
served in traditional crockery. mains. tel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, SKEWERS SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE
One of the best Vietnamese Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai,
restaurants in town. sheratonsaigon.com 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: Q1, Tel: 0938 687689
RIVERSIDE CAFÉ If you like your buffet selec- (08) 3822 4798 soraesushi.com
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN tions to be big, then here it is skewers-restaurant.com Set over two floors, this
QUAN UT UT Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 gargantuan, with every type Simple, unpretentious Greek- astonishing, no-expense-
US-STYLE BARBECUE Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) of option under the sun. A influenced, international cui- spared Japanese restaurant
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 great place to catch up on sine ranging from the zucchini and lounge brings to Saigon
3914 4500 Offers versatile all–day dining your seafood addiction or to carpaccio through to the sa- the type of environment and
facebook.com/quanutut of international quality, with pig out over a Sunday brunch. ganiki, a range of dips, mou- ambience you’d expect of
It’s a no-brainer, right? Amer- the bonus of being able to saka, osso buco and lamb New York, Singapore, Hong
ican-style barbecue in a con- watch the action on the river chop skewers. Also has an Kong and Dubai. With the
temporary Vietnamese, quan sidewalk. Features western, SAN FU LOU excellent upstairs cigar room. décor comes a modern take
nhau-style setting. Of course Asian and Vietnamese buf- CANTONESE KITCHEN on Japanese fare. A place to
it is, which is why Quan Ut fets. Ground Floor, AB Building, see and be seen.
Ut is constantly packed with 76A Le Lai, Q1

TOP EATS FAMILY GARDEN
I
f you live in Saigon and are the Already popular with families, and At the front is a family-friendly
complaining type, one of the things apparently well known amongst District playground and a reasonable space for
you’ve probably complained about, and 2’s French expats, the purpose of the space your next company picnic, though this
with some justification, is the lack of is three-fold; to offer a peaceful sanctuary is not Snap Café, so don’t expect a full
green space in this city. It’s hardly a new for escape, a fully organic market to buy Western menu and waiters eager to fill
debate. produce from, and to give people the your drinks. The pace here is intentionally
While the country is known as a tropical opportunity to grow their own vegetables much slower, and the vibe is very local.
jungle, its southern metropolis can fairly be on a rented plot of land, which you can do From Monday to Friday the lunch
said to lack sufficient areas to create what for VND650,000 per month. special is egg omelette with boiled
foreigners might consider ‘optimal’ living vegetables (VND50,000) and there is a
conditions. It’s a reasonable criticism, but it’s A Revelation range of other options, but best to let the
not without remedy. Walking in for the first time is a revelation. kitchen know in advance. When I asked
“How long has this been here?” you’ll be about the chicken on our visit I was told
Hiding in Plain Sight asking yourself, right before you sit down to wait an hour, so my advice is to pop by
Family Garden has been around for almost to enjoy one of a range of locally grown first and check out the options, you won’t
two years, but most people don’t know fruit juices (VND30,000), under one of be disappointed.
about it. Almost hiding in plain sight, if you many shaded canopies. You should feel If the locally grown produce is more
drive down Thao Dien with even a modicum the stress of the street lift right off you, as your thing, fruit and veg (VND40,000 per
of urgency, it’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it you admire what has been created here; kilo) and leafy greens (VND50,000 per kilo)
situation. The modest signage has always an oasis of silence, bamboo and all things are available till sold out. — Jon Aspin
been there though, and if you make that left, good from the earth. There’s a creek, beds Family Garden is at 28 Thao Dien, Q2,
just after the entrance to Thao Dien Sports to lie down on and even bunny rabbits, HCMC and is open from 8.30am to 8.30pm
Centre, you’ll soon be transported into a peacefully going about their day among every day. Bookings can be made on 0913
tranquil, other-worldly garden space. That’s the vegetable plots; it’s all very Beatrix 662887 or you can check them out at facebook.
Family Garden. Potter. com/familygarden.familyfood

A WORLD WRITING CHEQUES BEFORE CHECKING IN
OF GOOD BY DANA MCNAIRN
Rather than telling people what they need, ask them
“I
’m not judgmental,” said the The Immediate Concern Self-Determination
woman working for an NGO The Cambodians had their reasons and Somewhere in our commitment to
in Cambodia. “But I just don’t you can bet that had the NGO actually development and ending poverty, there
understand why they don’t chatted with the locals about soap and sneaks in a troubling rhetoric of ‘telling
seem to get it.” She works handing toothbrushes it may have learned instead people what to do’.” I’m all for zeal and
out soap and toothbrushes as part of a that the community needed microenterprise drive and infectious enthusiasm (most
community health project and the “it” and livelihood generation. Or perhaps they days), but there is a chorus of righteousness
is using said items for the improved needed a new opera house. The point is that seems to couple itself with “and you
hygiene results the NGO was counting they weren’t asked. There’s a razor-thin line should…” or “it’s better if you….” Only you
on. The locals had their own ideas between charity and gratitude, isn’t there? know what’s best for you, but this is too
and were instead selling said hygiene What is the response to those volunteers often a decision we take away from others,
improvements. who feel comfortable going overseas to do especially when we’re ‘helping’ them. That
I love these (sort of) parallelisms. “I’m work they are not qualified to do at home doesn’t sound like we’re upholding the
not a racist, but...” or “I’m not a sexist, and thus are responsible for eliminating universality of self-esteem and self-reliance.
but….” a real local from real employment? More The formidable Barbara Ehrenreich ,
This is a clear signal that when you importantly, what might be the response to author of the influential Nickel and Dimed:
hear this type of expression the very next the sending agencies that place inexperienced On (Not) Getting By in America, uses the
thing out of that person’s mouth will do-gooders in these situations? word solidarity in discussions around
verify they are indeed judgmental, racist Those sending agencies are carving gratitude. I prefer that too and we cannot
or sexist. up a US$2 billion a year industry in lose sight of it. We’re all in this together, our
So right out of the door flies that whole ‘voluntourism’ and hey, economic shared humanity.
pesky ‘do no harm’ principle where we’re existentialism — who has time for Why not engage with something
trying to utilize minimum standards in aid that! But humanitarian aid and social more like… solidarity economics? Let’s
and humanitarian responses like ‘we shall development are not commodities. really reduce — and eliminate — future
respect culture and custom’. While the selfies continue to pop in vulnerabilities.
In the development sector, until you and impoverished communities (look at me Albert Camus, no stranger to poverty, said
I have lived among the people we profess holding raggedy children!), more than we cannot seem “to have dispensed with
to serve or have spent many years working 1.3 billion people on our planet live in generosity in order to practise charity”.
alongside them, we will remain tourists extreme poverty (less than US$1.25 a Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, an
scratching our heads muttering, “But why day) says the World Bank. Soap is not the award-winning nonprofit social enterprise
are they doing that?” immediate concern. providing vocational training for at-risk youth

HCMC
TAMAGO TIN NGHIA 170 Vo Van Tan, Q3 NAM GIAO
PAN-JAPANESE VEGAN
M M M BUN BO HUE
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1
(08) 3744 4634 3821 2538
STREET FOOD BANH MI THANH
tamagoresto@gmail.com One of the city’s oldest eat- MAI HOANG
Located on the main drag in eries (established in 1925) VIETNAMESE BANH MI PHO DAU
does some of the cheapest BA GHIEN 107 Truong Dinh, Q3
Thao Dien, Tamago has in- PHO BO
COM TAM
door and out door seating, and tastiest vegan cuisine in BANH TAM BI TO CHAU 288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan
On The Town a terrace and private rooms. town, all cooked up without BANH TAM
They have a ladies’ night on onions, garlic or MSG. 271 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Tuesdays as well as a Tep- PHO HOA
BA NAM PHO BO & PHO GA
panyaki themed night on
VESPER GOURMET BO KHO 260C Pasteur, Q3
Saturday evenings. Have a BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
LOUNGE Alleyway to the left of 162
second restaurant in Mui Ne. VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
INTERNATIONAL Tran Nhan Tong, Q10 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi PHO LE
TEMPLE CLUB Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 PHO BO
9698 BANH CANH HOANG TY Namsonsteak.com 413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5
PAN-VIETNAMESE
facebook.com/vespersaigon BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
Headed up by well-known 70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
(08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a BUN CHA HA NOI PHO PHU GIA
Once a hotel for Indian dig- sophisticated yet down-to- BUN CHA PHO BO
earth cocktail bar and res- BANH CUON HAI NAM 26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3
nitaries visiting old Saigon,
taurant with subtle lighting BANH CUON
the elegant and atmos-
and a great spirit selection. 11A Cao Thang, Q3
pheric Temple Club is one
of the city’s best-preserved Serves creative, Japanese and CHI THONG PHO PHU VUONG
buildings. Serving quality German-influenced cuisine to BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI PHO BO
supplement the drinks and BANH KHOT CO 195 Co Giang, Q1 339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh
Vietnamese and Indochine
has a separate dining space. BA VUNG TAU
cuisine at reasonable prices.
BANH KHOT
102 Cao Thang, Q3 COM GA XOI MO SU SU SUSHI KO
THE DECK WRAP & ROLL VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN STREET SUSHI
MODERN ASIAN FUSION 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 55 Tu Xuong, Q3 122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4
3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, BANH MI HONG HOA
38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 6632 Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De VIETNAMESE BANH MI
Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097 62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 THE LUNCH LADY
thedecksaigon.com COM TAM 40A
Set on the banks of Saigon wrap-roll.com COM TAM
DAILY CHANGING DISHES
The lime green walls and 40A Quoc Huong, Q2 23 Hoang Sa, Q1
River across from Thanh Da
bright pastel colours of Wrap BANH MI HUYNH HOA
Island, this innovative res-
taurant serves up modern ‘n Roll are just part of the ‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI
theme of this homegrown, 26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 MI QUANG MY SON TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
Asian fusion cuisine in a
Vietnamese brand which is HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE
Bali-style atmosphere, com- MI QUANG
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
all about spring rolls of all 38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
plemented by great cocktails
types, and healthy, Hue- BANH MI SAU MINH (08) 3821 7751
and a long wine list.
influenced cuisine. VIETNAMESE BANH MI
THE HUNGRY PIG YU CHU

BACON BAR / CAFE
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 1st Floor, InterContinental
3836 4533 Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
facebook.com/thehungry- Trung & Le Duan, Q1
pigcafe Tel: (08) 3520 9999
Think bacon, bacon and intercontinental.com/saigon
more bacon, all set in airy, Skillful chefs prepare au-
spacious atmosphere, and thentic hand-pulled noodles,
you get The Hungry Pig, an fresh dim sum and hot wok
eatery specialising in any- dishes within an impeccably
thing from the bacon butty designed open kitchen, as
through to the bacon Caesar. diners look on. Stylish and
A popular hangout. spectacular.
ZEUS
GREEK / KEBAB
164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 3248
The service is often slow, and
the staff are often surpris-
THE SOCIETY ingly lazy, yet the food here
GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR is so good and so unique to
99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) this city, that no-one seems
3914 3999 to mind. The perfect place
facebook.com/TheSociety- to feast out on gyros and all
HCM things off a skewer. Cheap,
Designed as a Laneway- too.
style restobar, the kind of
place found in Hong Kong,
London, New York or Cen- ZOOM CAFÉ
tral Melbourne, thanks to AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
its indoor and outdoor am- 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
bience, The Society brings 3920 3897
dining and drinking to a new vietnamvespaadventures.
level. Phenomenal cocktails, com/cafe_zoom
steaks, grilled fare and sea- This corner-located Vespa-
food make this a place to go infatuated venue is a café
for drinks, a full-blown meal and restaurant by day and
or a mixture of both. a sidewalk drinking joint
by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Ca-
jun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.

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Xo
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The Final Say
THE FINAL SAY NATIOANAL
Kiteboarding Goes
to Phan Rang
Professional kiteboarding tries out a new location — Phan Rang.
Words by Jon Aspin

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY KTA
W
hen the KTA Pro Kiteboarding new WOO Big Air competition with a gnarly and Bar. Let’s hope they and the tour keep
event took place just off the jump of 13.8m. coming back. — Jon Aspin
coast of Phan Rang in Ninh Also up for grabs were cash prizes in the The next stop for the KTA is in Hainan in
Thuan Province back in Time Trial category that saw racers navigate China in May. Keep on eye on all the action and
February, it was a little too late for us to a demanding circuit five times, with each results at kiteboardtour.asia or you can check out
include anything in our March issue. rider's best three times counting towards them out at facebook.com/kiteboardtourasia
So, here are a few photos from what by their score, and the everyone-can-have-a-go,
all accounts turned out to be a sensational but still competitive SUP sprint.
time in a pristine location. Even though a Judging by the smiles on people’s faces
storm on the first day, and some difficult in the pictures we’ve seen, it was a welcome The Winners
wind conditions, tried to play havoc with the return to Vietnam for the Asian Pro Tour,
event, the Vietnam Rowing, Canoeing and which has not been here since 2012. The WOO F ACTOR
Sailing Federation, (VCRSF) along with local location was also important. Straddled Men: Lai Hoang Phu (VN)
officials and event organizers, were able to by Phan Thiet / Mui Ne to the south and Women: Mariska Wildenburg (NED)
shift the location slightly around Ninh Chu Nha Trang / Cam Ranh to the north, the
Bay, enabling the blue-ribbon Freestyle X province of Ninh Thuan is often overlooked F REESTYLE X
category to run smoothly. in favour of its better-known counterparts Men: Dylan van der Meij (NED)
Here, sponsored riders, including some up and down the central coast. Holding a Women: Marine Duprat (FRA)
bona-fide European national champions, professional, international competition on
names like Dylan van der Meij (NED), and the outskirts of its major city, Phan Rang, TT R ACING
Andrey Salnik (UKR) on the men's side, will help put this desert-like region on the Men: Narapichit Pudla (THAI)
and Marine Duprat (FRA) and Annabel international map. Women: Jingle Chen (CHN)
van Westerop (NED) in the women’s event, Thanks to local supporters Manta Sail
mixed it with Asia’s best. Special mention Training Centre, Son Long Thuan and SUP X-C HAMP
should go to Vietnam’s own Lai Hoang Phu, Vietnam Airlines, as well as their hosts for Men: Alexsander Shafinsky (RUS)
who took out the men’s division of KTA’s the competition Ninh Chu Bay Beach Club Women: Marine Duprat (FRA)

The Final Say
Ten10
Nick Ross likes to avoid the limelight, but
considering he’s been at the helm of this rag for 100
issues, maybe now is about time
How did the plan of publishing an arrival of online publishing
English-language magazine come changed your business?
about? Loads. It’s affected business models, not
It came originally from someone I was just for us, but for everyone in the media
working with in Singapore in early 2005. industry. I think we’re finally getting to
He had done a magazine in Saigon in the grips with it and what people want from
early 1990s and somehow revived the digital. But it’s taken a bit of time.
idea with me. However, it wasn’t until I
returned to Vietnam a couple of months Presumably your core audience
later that I discovered it was really is from the Anglosphere. How
possible. The same friend ended up as much have you been able to
one of the founders. draw in non-native English
readers (especially Vietnamese).
How difficult was it to get going? Has the readership profile
Very. It was all about getting the license. changed over the years?
And to get the license we had to have Our non-native English speaking
good contacts. Fortunately we found readership has grown dramatically over
someone who could help on that front. the years. Vietnamese readers alone make
The other issue was convincing people up 25% of our audience. Not bad, really.
that what we were doing was worth The key has been changing the focus
supporting. One person, who’s now a slightly so that this is not just an expat rag
good friend of mine, even told me in less- — it’s got a bit of something for everyone.
than-polite words where to get off.
Has the business given you
Running a business in the the opportunity to meet well-
cultural area is clearly more known people or enjoy unusual
sensitive than if you were, say, a experiences which otherwise
manufacturer of widgets. How do you might not have had?
you walk this line? Yes, without a doubt. It’s enabled me
I don’t really know, to be honest. I guess to travel pretty much everywhere in
I’m just a sucker for punishment! Also, Vietnam and meet people from all walks
I’ve never manufactured anything in my of society. For me, though, the most
whole life. unusual experiences were when I climbed
Hamburger Hill — my relationship with
Your journalists need to be the Co Tu guide was bizarre — and the
well informed about Vietnam. crazy, crazy day I spent in Kontum where
How hard is it to find and keep I ended up at an ethnic minority wedding
knowledgeable staff in such a drinking rice wine out of a straw from a
transient market? Has it got shared pot.
easier or harder?
It’s very difficult. And it’s no easier now Have there been any highlight
than it was at the start. It’s all in the moments which stick in your
details. What do they see when they write memory?
about this country? Let’s say they want The launch of our Hanoi edition in
to talk about crossing the road. How will November 2009. We did it at Softwater by
they talk about it? If they write like they’re the Red River. Because the party was on
a rabbit caught in the headlights, forget a lawn, we got everyone to take off their
it. However, if they see more into it — for shoes before they were allowed in. The
example, can use the concept of crossing a idea was to get rid of airs and graces, and
road as a metaphor for life in Vietnam — put us all on the same level. It worked.
then they may have something. Oh, and of course, this article. Finally I
am being allowed out of the woodwork!
What would you say are the
three key attributes you need to You’ve obviously seen an
run a business like yours here? enormous amount of change in
Perseverance, patience and the realisation your 16 years here. What has
that a bit like Sisyphus, no matter how far been the most surprising change
up the mountain you push the boulder, it to you?
will always roll back down again. The speed of it. If I compare early 2000
to now, it feels like we’re in a different
How (and how much) has the universe.

Sách Chuyên Quảng Cáo - Not For Sale

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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC

VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 4

THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

THE TALK INSIDER 96 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

20 / Coffee on the Spin EAT & DRINK

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TRAVEL 138 / Day Tripper COLUMNS

106 / Bangkok in Squares 142 / Bar Stool 146 / The Therapist

118 / 10 Destinations to Visit in HCMC 166 / The Gym Diaries

42 / Just In 184 / Top Eats 2 192/ Ten 10

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TRUNG DEL EDITORIAL

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC

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Have Your Say

Inbox The Vung Tau

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Twenty Years Later

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2 Apr. 9 to 19 on page 24 rumours of DJ Tiesto headlining

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More than Air Quality

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give talks and workshops to local artists.

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Hey Camel Ceramics From The Canary Islands to Saigon

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PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

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Last year's Songkran at Saigon Outcast

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Getting ready for

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available at belgianbeerfestival.com. celebration of Australian food, Doors open at 10pm. Tickets

to play their legendary album, The competitions and more. Songkran

a veritable onslaught of albums Come armed to the teeth or

Tickets cost VND300,000 and can a soundtrack provided by top local

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PHOTO BY BAO ZOAN

the area’s residents, at the end of 41 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC

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Saigon Cyclo Challenge SCC go to saigonchildren.com they should dispatch an ambulance.

organised by Saigon Children’s world, it enables the dispatcher

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PHOTO BY NGUYEN VAN TRUONG / FFI

offering 20 percent off all room freshest ingredients, most sourced

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