Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Apparel
vaude.com
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
page:
INDEX
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
page:
INDEX
Index (clickable)
Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
1 Technology. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1 Performance Clothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2 The onion principle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.1 Outer layer (shell layer):
Protection from the elements. . . .
2.2 Mid layer: Insulating body heat . .
2.3 Inner layer:Transfer layer. . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
3 Hardshell. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
PFC-free DWR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3.1 Exterior: Shell layer . . . . . . . . . . . .
3.2 Membrane and Coating . . . . . . . . . .
3.2.1 Coating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3.2.2 Membrane. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3.3 VAUDE Membranes and Coatings . .
3.3.1 sympatex Membrane . . . . . . . . . . .
3.3.2 Ceplex. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
. 6
. 6
. 7
. 7
. 7
. 8
. 9
. 9
10
4 Softshell. . . . . . . . .
4.1 Windproof 100 . .
4.2 Windproof 80 . . .
4.3 Windproof PRO. .
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
11
11
11
11
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
5 Mid Layer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
5.1 Fleece. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
. . . . . . . . . . . 12
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
. . . . . . . . . . . 12
. . . . . . . . . . . 12
. . . . . . . . . . . 12
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
13
13
14
14
14
14
8 Integrated UV protection in
functional clothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
2 Tips and tricks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
9 Care of performance clothing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
3 Green Shape . . . . . . . . .
Recycled Materials . .
Organic Cotton. . . . . .
Tencel. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
VAUDE ecolour. . . . . . .
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
17
18
19
19
20
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
INTRODUCTION
page:
INDEX
Introduction
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
1 Technology
page:
INDEX
1 Performance Clothing
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
NANO
BACK TO INDEX
1 Technology
page:
INDEX
ECO FINISH
ECO FINISH
PFC-free DWR
PFCs represent a major problem for the water, oil and soil
repellent finishes of fabrics (DWR durable water repellency).
PFC residues can be found in products treated with the DWR
finishes available on the market today.
PFCs are used on the surface of outdoor products to cause
water and dirt to bead up and roll off of these products. Without this surface treatment, water and dirt do not bead up, but
rather soak into the fabric which leads to a clammy wet feeling
for wearer, despite the waterproof membrane.
COATINGS
1
2
3
1 Outer fabric
2 Coating
3 Mesh lining material
3 Hardshell
Hardshells are performance jackets which have a membrane
or surface coating which makes them both waterproof and
breathable at the same time. Before modern membrane or
coating technologies existed, clothing was neither waterproof
nor breathable. So as to be both of these, jackets are nowadays built up from several layers. On the outside is the shell
layer, whilst on the inside of the jacket theres an inner lining.
Depending on the type of hardshell, there may be a coating or
a membrane between the outer and inner layers of the jacket.
For the user of outdoor products made with PFC, there are
no risks based on current knowledge. However, the manufacturing process in the production countries, the subsequent
washing of the finished product as well as in product disposal, PFC substances pose a risk to health and environment;
they accumulate in the environment and in the human body
through the food chain, and are not biodegradable.
VAUDE is working proactively on the full elimination of fluorocarbon use - and not just by eliminating the use of PTFE
membranes. We are working diligently to find PFC-free DWR
alternatives and gradually convert the entire Collection
But:
Outdoor products are so popular precisely because of their
water and dirt repellent properties. This functionality can currently only be achieved with the help of chemical substances.
Unfortunately, there are currently no PFC-free waterproofing
treatments with the equivalent water-, oil-and dirt-repellent
functionality. The expectations of our customers regarding
product functionality are very high, especially for repellency
What is PFOA?
PFOA (perfluorinated surfactants) are an especially critical
form of PFC. They are used in the production of PTFE membranes and are created as a residual product in the manufacturing
of DWR.
Residual traces can be found in DWR finishes based on C8 technologies (8 carbon atoms per molecule, long chain PFC).
PFOA is currently not subject to statutory provisions. There
are currently no legal limits for PFOA in finished products.
Greenpeace and the German Federal Environmental Agency
therefore demand quite rightly that PFOA be included in the
European chemical legislation REACh.
The bluesign standard has completely banned the use of PFOA
and has very strict limits for the amount of residues allowed.
VAUDE has been working together with bluesign since 2001.
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
page:
INDEX
COATINGS
1
2
3
1 Outer fabric
2 Coating
3 Mesh lining material
3.2.1 Coating
Disadvantages of coatings:
They are usually not permanently integrated into the
The shell layer is undergoes a process in which plastic is liquefied using a solvent and then applied to the shell layer to form
a coating. The solvent evaporates leaving a waterproof layer
which is firmly sealed to the shell layer this is the coating.
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
1 Technology
2-LAYERS LaminatE
page:
INDEX
2,5-LAYERS LaminatE
3-LAYERS LaminaTE
1
2
2
3
3
1 Outer fabric
2 Membrane
3 Mesh lining material
1 Outer fabric
2 Membrane
3 Plastic dots
1 Outer fabric
2 Membrane
3 Mesh lining material
3.2.2 Membrane
A membrane on clothing is a semi-permeable, ultra-thin plastic
film. The membrane makes the material waterproof, windproof
and breathable at the same time.
Processing:
The membrane is too delicate to be used alone, so it is combined with a base material (the shell layer) to make it more
lasting. This bonding process is called lamination, the result
being a laminate
Function:
Water droplets cannot penetrate the structure of the membrane as the pores are considerably smaller than water molecules. Water vapour can however diffuse through it, as these
molecules are smaller than the pores and can therefore pass
through them. Dirt, abrasion and body fats can compromise
or damage the function of the membrane.
Advantages of membranes:
Very highly breathable
Very highly waterproof
Most membranes are also windproof.
Lasting lamination with material, so a membrane
cannot be washed out.
Disadvantages of membranes:
Tactile characteristics of the material are changed.
Require more care.
More expensive than coated materials.
3-ply laminate
Shell layer, membrane and lining are laminated together firmly,
creating an extremely hard-wearing yet lightweight 3-ply
material. The direct combining of the materials means that
3-ply laminates are very breathable and have a very high water
column. The lamination of all three layers makes some 3-ply
jackets relatively stiff (depending on the membrane used),
which may compromise the wearers feeling of comfort.
% waterproof
DOCUMENT
BACK TO INDEX
1 technology
Sympatex standard
>35,000 mm*
sympatex
BREATHABILITY
CHAPTER
Glass cylinder
BREATHABILITY
Water
Empa standard
4,000 mm
CEPLEX PRO
CEPLEX ADVANCED
German industry
standard
1,300 mm
CEPLEX ACTIVE
Membrane
WATER COLUMN
* Using the WIWeB method developed by the Federal Office of Defense Technology and Procurement,
Erding (Germany)
Sympatex Membrane:
Water column: > 45,000 mm
MVTR up to 35000 g/m/24 h
Ceplex pro Membrane:
Water column: 20,000 mm
Extremely breathable
Ceplex advanced Membrane:
Water column: 15,000 mm
Highly breathable
Ceplex active coating or Membrane:
Water column: 10,000 mm
breathable
100 % waterproof
20.07.2010
A materials waterproofness is gauged using the water column
(WC) which exerts sufficient pressure for the fabric to start
letting water through. If the pressure is above 1,300 mm, the
item of clothing is deemed waterproof according to the German industry standard (DIN EN 20811:1992, also known as ISO
811). Textiles that can withstand pressure of 400 to 1,300 mm
are merely water-repellent.
The Swiss materials testing institute EMPA in St Gallen stipulates that a functional fabric is actually only waterproof from a
water column of 4,000 mm (e.g. when sitting on damp ground
2110_SYMPA_0300_Schulungsbroschuere_engl 5
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
1 Technology
page:
10
INDEX
Wind-chill effect
100% WINDPROOF
TRANSPORT WATER
Temperature
Perceived
temperature
Perceived
temperature
Perceived
temperature
3C
6C
11C
-5
-10
-15
0
10
20
Actual temperature
30
40
50
km/h
Wind speed
Perceived temperature
The wind-chill effect: even low wind speeds make the actual temperature feel
much colder.
has been increasingly criticized in recent years as the production process for PTFE uses fluorides which are suspected
of being harmful to health and even causing cancer.
kind to the skin and the environment
100% recyclable,
C E P L just
E X like a PET bottle
As stretchable as the outer fabric allows
The Sympatex membrane is absolutely windproof. This functional property is important to prevent the subjective wind10991985,
chill Method
effect. B1
2110_SYMPA_0300_Schulungsbroschuere_engl 9
100 % recyclable
The Sympatex membrane consists of oxygen, carbon and
hydrogen and is fully recyclable and reusable, just like a PET
bottle. 100% performance 100% ecologically sound.
huere_dt 7
PTFE-free membrane
VAUDE has set itself the goal of becoming Europes most sustainable outdoor brand by the year 2015. Many years ago, we decided
against the use of PFC and consequently, the use of PTFE-membranes (PFC is needed to make these membranes). Since 2010, VAUDE
has only used membranes made from PE or PU.
VAUDE makes PTFE-free alternatives with excellent functionality
the Sympatex membrane made from polyetherester (PE) and our
in-house Ceplex membrane made from polyurethane.
In membranes, VAUDE is therefore 100% PFC-free.
3.3.2 Ceplex
Ceplex is the generic term for VAUDEs own brand membranes
and coatings. Ceplex exists in three different qualities, each of
whose breathability and water column properties are designed for particular applications.
Ceplex pro membrane technology
With a water column of 20,000 mm and extremely high breath
ability, Ceplex pro membrane has excellent characteristics. It is
completely waterproof, windproof and breathable.
We therefore use Ceplex pro in our technical jackets in the
Mountain collection, for extreme mountain conditions.
Ceplex active
Ceplex active is a very durable, waterproof and breathable
coating. It gives the material a water column of 10,000 mm
and is breathable at the same time. We use Ceplex active for
our particularly tough jackets, e.g. our extra-durable childrens
jackets contain Ceplex active to give little ones the best protection possible against wind and weather.
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
1 Technology
BACK TO INDEX
page:
11
INDEX
4.2 Windproof 80
The processing techniques make this material highly windproof. The Windproof 80 material is constructed in such a way
(close weave, finish or processing) to make it 80% windproof.
The big advantage of these partly wind-penetrable materials is
that they are very breathable. The wind penetrating the jacket
is weakened by an incorporated material barrier. This has a
pleasant cooling effect and transports moisture outwards. You
just have to be careful in a very cold wind, as the wind chill factor in an 80% windproof jacket can cool the body right down.
Windproof 80 is therefore particularly suitable for active
mountaineering in windy but not stormy weather.
4 Softshell
Softshells are multifunctional jackets. They combine characteristics of a hardshell with those of the middle garmet layer, i.e.
they combine protection against water with insulation. Softshells are durable, have long-lasting water and dirt repellent
qualities and the fabric is flexible. Depending on the process
used and the material, they may be wind-resistant or even
windproof, if they are given a windproof membrane. These
characteristics mean that softshells can be worn in almost any
weather in the moun-tains.
4.1 Windproof 100
100% windproof softshell material due to an incorporated
membrane. Depending on what the garment is used for e.g.
summer softshell or winter softshell, another sandwich
construction is used involving a technical outer material and
warm inner material. This material is particularly suitable for
mountain sports in tough climatic conditions.
Recycled materials
VAUDE uses various recycled raw materials such as polyester or
polyamide. These can be used to produce fleece. Used PET bottles
can also be used to manufacture new products.
The used PET plastic bottles are collected, purified, ground and
processed to form a granulate which is again melted and spun into
yarn. This creates premium polyester that saves up to 50% energy
in the manufacturing process and about 50% of CO2 emissions.
The use of new fossil raw materials from petroleum is completely
omitted.
5.1 Fleece
Fleece is a generally used term for synthetic woven fleece
made of polyester or nylon. Clothing made of fleece is lightweight, provides good insulation and transports moisture well.
Our fleeces tend not to pill and are tearproof. They are flexible
and comfortable, giving you lots of room for movement.
We use almost exclusively fleece made of polyester as this
material absorbs very little moisture. Polyester fibres retain
only about 1-5% of their own weight in water. This means that
a fleece shirt with a dry weight of 300g weighs only about 10g
more when wet and wrung out. A cotton shirt of the same
weight absorbs about 60g, that is 20%, of its own weight in
water.
Processing:
The base of a fleece material is a stretchable knitted fabric
(see diagram 1). Multi-fibre threads are looped into the knitted
fabric (see diagram 2) and these are then cut open and clipped
back (see diagram 3). The individual fibres therefore create a
much larger surface area. This is called the pile. The greater
the fleeces pile, the more air can be stored between the fibres,
creating a greater insulating effect.
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
1 Technology
BACK TO INDEX
page:
12
INDEX
Now we are down to the skin. The base layer is the layer of
clothing that is worn directly next to the skin. It is therefore
particularly important that this layer is skin-friendly and
pleasant to wear it is after all also the basis for the functionality of all further layers. If the bottom layer does not function
properly, this can have an effect on the whole clothing system.
The inner garment layer has a considerable influence on the
body climate and on comfort levels.
The most important functions of the base layer are:
Skin-friendly and pleasant to wear
Rapid transport of moisture
Quick-drying
Material with little or no harmful substances
Free of allergenic substances
Odour-inhibiting
There are different kinds of functional underwear available for
different climatic circumstances:
Our thermo underwear helps the body to regulate its temperature. It warms through a combination of Merino wool and
polyamide and protects from overcooling. During strenuous
activities such as ski touring or skating it also ensures that
moisture is rapidly transferred to the next layer.
Our seamless and thermo underwear is ideal for winter
mountain sports. The merino wool content not only features
naturally built-in odor protection, it also retains warmth even
when wet. The fine structure of merino wool combined with
polyamide fibers results in an extremely soft feel.
The Seamless base layer is just what it says and thats really a
plus at crucial areas at the arms and legs. Irritating seams are a
thing of the past.
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
1 Technology
BACK TO INDEX
page:
13
INDEX
Animal welfare
VAUDE has made a clear commitment to use only the down of
animals which are neither live-plucked nor force fed for the supposed culinary delicacy foie gras. We have received all relevant
supplier confirmations. In addition, our supplier of down clothing
is a bluesign system partner and the down used is bluesign
approved.
We have found that, unfortunately, we have still not been able
to guarantee 100% control over the conditions under which the
animals are raised and treated. Therefore, we have commissioned
an independent organization to audit our downs entire supply
chain. So far, this has been achieved down the chain back to the
slaughterhouse. The next step is to go back to the goose/duck farm
where the animals are raised.
7.1 Down
Down is the diva of fills. No other fill has such excellent insulating properties as down, no other fill is so light and can be
packed so small, and no other fill is as sensitive.
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
1 Technology
page:
14
INDEX
Synthetic fibres are the hard workers among fills. No other fill
insulates as reliably as synthetics, no other fill is as durable
and easy to care for. Synthetic fibres are how-ever significantly
heavier than down and have a considerably larger pack size.
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
1 Technology
BACK TO INDEX
page:
15
INDEX
8 Integrated UV protection in
functional clothing
UV rays are electromagnetic rays which are invisible to the
human eye. They are a part of the suns rays. The effects of
UV rays are unfortunately not felt until it is too late you are
already sunburnt. UV rays penetrate deep into the skin and can
cause cell damage this results in sunburn and skin ageing.
Too much UV exposure can lead to permanent skin damage
and skin cancer. It is therefore particulary important to protect
yourself properly against the suns harmful rays .
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
page:
16
INDEX
Never iron fleece jackets, just shake them out after washing
with mild deter-gent.
Performance shirts and blouses dry quickly, so it is not
necessary to tumble dry them. This protects not only the
material but also the environment.
Waterproofing
Heavy rain can wash out the waterproofing in the outer layer
of performance jackets. Even if the membrane of these jackets
is completely waterproof, the shell layer is usually additionally
protected so that it does not soak up water. This is because a
wet shell layer can reduce the breathability of the membrane
by up to 80%. Clothing should therefore be re-waterproofed
when necessary. The right time to do this is as soon as
water forms a wet patch on the shell layer instead of rolling
off it. The easiest thing to do is to waterproof clothing after
washing, then you are sure to be on the safe side.
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
3 Green Shape
page:
17
INDEX
SUSTAINABILITY SUMMIT
BLUESIGN PRODUCT MADE WITH ECO MATERIAL
OR BLUESIGN PRODUCT
CAMP 2
BLUESIGN APPROVED FABRIC MADE WITH ECO MATERIAL
CAMP 1
BLUESIGN APPROVED FABRIC
OR ECO MATERIAL
ADVANCED BASECAMP
ON THE WAY - BETTER BUT NOT GREEN SHAPE
BASECAMP
REGULAR PRODUCTS
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
page:
18
INDEX
ReCyCled mATeRIAls
Recycled Materials
ReCyCled mATeRIAls
DOCUMENT
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
page:
19
INDEX
ORGANIC COTTON
Organic Cotton
ORGANIC COTTON
Tencel
VAUDE products that are made from at least 35%
Tencel and at least 90% sustainable fibers in total (for
example, organic cotton) are Green Shape.
Tencel is a natural fiber made from wood pulp cellulose that
conserves resources. It is extremely comfortable thanks to a
silky smooth surface that transports moisture quickly away
from the body and inhibits bacterial growth.
Advantages:
No finishing chemicals to ensure the products
functionality required!
Fiber from certified, fast growing eucalyptus trees that
need no fertilizers or irrigation.
Closed production cycle: water and solvents are
recovered completely
100% biodegradable
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
page:
20
INDEX
VAUDE ecolour
VAUDE products dyed with ecolour are Green Shape.
VAUDE ecolour is an environmentally friendly dye process in
which the pigments are added during the spinning process.
Advantages compared to conventional dye processes:
62% less CO2 emissions
89% less water is used
63% less chemicals
63% less energy is needed
<90%
VAUde eCOlOUR
DOCUMENT
VAUde eCOlOUR
DOCUMENT
Notes:
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
page:
21
INDEX
DOCUMENT
Notes:
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
page:
22
INDEX
DOCUMENT
Notes:
CHAPTER
BACK TO INDEX
page:
23
INDEX
vaude.com
VAUDE Sport GmbH & Co. KG
VAUDE-Strae 2
D - 88069 Tettnang