Wall Frames Text Part 1

CARPENTRY - HOUSING
WALL
FRAMING
This text introduces a variety of subject matter related to Building and Construction, at
a trade level.
It outlines wall and ceiling framing terminology, framing members, placement of
members and methods of bracing in relation to wind loadings.
Setting out of wall frames for timber and brick veneer structures is covered, including
the structural connections between members.
The unit also covers calculation of opening sizes, framing quantities and costs.
Note: Only timber framing is dealt with in this unit.
A comprehensive Glossary of Terms is included at the end of the text, which provides
a detailed description of trade terms, technical content and some trade jargon.
TAFE NSW Construction and Transport Division
WALL FRAMING
WALL FRAMING
INTRODUCTION TO FRAMING
A frame may be described as being a structural framework of two or more members joined
together to form a fabricated unit, which provides strength for a building and fixing for other
materials.
The individual members of a frame perform specific functions such as supporting other
Metal angle brace
Top wall plate

Lintel
Timber brace
(Optional)
Door head trimmer

Jack or short stud
Secondary Jamb studs

Window studs
Sill trimmer
Jack or short stud
Corner studs
Blocking
Bottom wall plate
Common stud
Door
studs
Noggings
members, separating other members, prevent other members from twisting or to simply provide
PLATES -
These are the horizontal members, which form the top and bottom of the frame,
and are separated by the studs. The bottom or vermin plate is usually out of
50mm thick unseasoned material or 45mm thick seasoned material.
The top plate is of the same section size as the bottom plate for conventional
roofing, however its thickness is increased to 75mm for unseasoned and 70mm
for seasoned when the roof system is trussed or a 2nd storey is added.
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The extra thickness compensates for the additional loads transferred to the external walls by the trusses or additional frames. Trusses are designed to span the
full width of the building to be supported on the external walls only.
Alternatively, the top plate of the external walls may be doubled; i.e. 2 x 38mm
plates, to provide adequate support where the trusses are not supported directly
over a stud.
Thickened
plate
Effect of random loading
Double
plate
Fig. 2 Increasing top plate thickness for trusses or 2nd storey
STUDS -
These are the vertical members placed between plates, which provide the
height for the wall and transfer the loads from the top to the bottom plates.
Typical sizes used in F5 to F8 Grades are from 75 x 38mm to 100 x 50mm in
unseasoned timber and from 70 x 35 to 90 x 45mm in seasoned timber.
They may simply be used to separate the plates, common studs, or be used for
specific purposes such as door and window studs or secondary jamb studs.
Note: It is usual for door and window studs to be a minimum of 50mm thick
for sawn timber and 45mm thick for thicknessed timber.
TRIMMERS - These are the relatively short horizontal members fixed between window sills
and door heads, often referred to simply as sill or head trimmers. They are
usually of the same section size as the bottom plates and are not designed to
carry great loads; therefore they would not normally be longer than the width
of a standard door opening, when used for heads. Where openings are wider or
carry excessive loads a larger section size member would be used, which is
known as a lintel.
TRIMMING
STUDS -
These are short infill studs, which run between trimmers and plates or are used
to block out the back of a narrow lintel. They may also be referred to as Jack,
soldier or short studs.
NOGGING -
These are horizontal members cut between studs to keep them straight, equally
spaced and prevent them from twisting. They are usually of a smaller thickness
than the studs, i.e. 35 or 38mm, to save cost, as they are not considered to be a
structural frame component.
They may also be fitted on edge in a continuous length by being cut-in on one
side, flush with the studs, for the length of the frame. This type is of a smaller
section size, i.e. 75 x 25mm, and may be referred to as a ribbon or strip
nogging. Other common terms used for noggings are noggin, nog and dwang.
WALL FRAMING
LINTEL -
Also referred to as a head, it is a horizontal member placed between studs, walls

or columns to form an opening. The lintel is designed to transfer the load of the
roof and/or upper floor to the sides of the opening, without deflecting.
Lintels may be of solid stress graded unseasoned timber, solid stress graded
seasoned timber, horizontally laminated stress graded timber, vertically
laminated timber (LVL), rolled steel channel, cold formed Z or C sectioned
Zincalume, boxed with plywood sheeting and combinations of timber and steel.
'C' Section
'Z' Section
Fig. 8.3 Patent metal lintels used for framing
BRACING - Frames are braced to provide lateral stability, which prevents racking in the
individual frames and throughout the whole-framed structure. Braces are fitted
to the frames before they are erected, but are not nailed off. This allows the
frames to be plumbed and straightened before they are made rigid.
There are several bracing systems used for both timber and metal wall frames as
follows:
Diagonal timber bracing 50 to 75mm wide x 19 to 25mm thick battens are
checked in flush with the face of the studs and nailed off on each stud. This
method is very strong but time consuming to fit;
Diamond bracing similar to diagonal bracing but it is placed in the shape
of a diamond. It may be timber or metal;
Perforated metal angle bracing this is fitted in a similar way to the
diagonal timber bracing except it only requires a saw cut, the thickness of
the metal, to allow it to be fitted hard against the edge of the studs. This
method is quick and easy to fit. It is strong in tension but tends to buckle
when in compression if there is only one brace in the wall. Also, it has a
very sharp edge and must be fitted facing down to avoid possible injury
during assembly and erection work;
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Studs and plates are saw-cut to

receive angle
Fig. 4 Diagonal timber or metal bracing
Flat metal or hoop iron cross bracing provided it is crossed over, it gives good holding
power and is quick and easy to fit. Most flat metal bracing, used for timber and metal
frames, is fitted with a compression clamp to allow for adjustment and squaring of the
frames. This is now the most common method used for bracing large walls and panels;
Straps are to be adequately tensioned,

turned over top plate and under bottom
plate and nailed at each stud crossing.
Strap tensioner
Fig. 5 Metal cross bracing with tensioners
WALL FRAMING
Sheet bracing this is a very strong

and rigid method of bracing,
especially for short or narrow wall
panels. Due to its thickness, approx.
7mm, it tends to be used for external
walls as it may be placed on the
cavity side in brick veneer
construction. If it is used for internal
walls then the whole wall must be
sheeted to prevent buckling of the
plasterboard sheet wall lining, which
is placed over its edge. It may be of
plywood or hardboard sheeting,
which is nailed off to suit the revised
AS 16841999: Timber Framing
Code Part 2
Sheet bracing
Nail spacing edge
Nail spacing intermediate

Vertical edges to be supported by
studs
Horizontal joints in sheets to occur
over nogging and nailed as per top
and bottom plate
Panel length
Fig. 6 Type A sheet bracing up to 2kN
TABLE 1
Guide for Sheet Bracing
MATERIAL
Plywood
Hardboard
GRADE/
TYPE
MIN. THICKNESS
(mm) for
STUD SPACING
450
600
F8
F11
F14
F27
7
4.5
4
3
9
7
6
4.5
RD
GP
5.5
6.4
5.5
6.4
PANEL
LENGTH (sheet
width)
NAIL SIZE
(mm)
900
2.8 x 30
150
300
1200
900
2.8 x 25
100
300
NAIL SPACING
(mm)
Edge
Intermediate
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WIND LOADING AND CLASSIFICATION

Structures are designed and braced to resist wind loads and wind uplift. The bracing is designed
and placed in strategic positions to counteract the affects of racking, due to lateral wind
forces, and uplift, caused by wind updraught. Before the design of a structure can be decided
upon it is necessary for the designer and structural engineer to know the region and terrain
category relative to the location of the structure.
Region -
This identifies the geographic area within Australia where differing weather
conditions occur. They range from very mild and stable to severe tropical
cyclonic regions as described in the table below:
TABLE 2
Regions in Australia
REGION
A
B
C
D
Terrain
Category -
LOCATION
DESCRIPTION
Occurs over the majority of inland These areas are classified as being
Australia and Tasmania.
Normal with low wind gust speeds
up to 50 m/s.
Occurs on the north coast of NSW These areas are classified as being
from Corrindi and runs close to the Intermediate with increasing wind
coastline around to Broome in WA. gust speeds up to 60 m/s.
Also the mid to lower east coast of
WA and the Islands north of Cape
York.
Occurs from Bundaberg in QLD These areas are classified as having
along the coast across to Carnar- Tropical Cyclones with high wind
von in WA.
gust speeds up to 70 m/s.
Occurs from Carnarvon in WA These areas are classified as having
along the coast up to Port Head- Severe Tropical Cyclones with wind
land.
gust speeds up to 85 m/s.
This is the classification given to a building site based on the surrounding

landscape taking into consideration flat surfaces and raised obstructions. These
classifications are described in the following table:
TABLE 3
Terrain Categories
CATEGORY
DESCRIPTION
This is exposed, open terrain with only a few or no obstructions.

This would apply to a structure on its own in the open, of at least
Terrain Category 1 10 km width, with little or no vegetation. It would also apply to
structures close to wide, open expanses of water such as a lake
(TC 1) or vast river.
This is smaller open terrain including coastal areas. This would
Terrain Category 2 include grassland with a few scattered obstructions like trees, airfields and low vegetation consisting of uncut grass to trees 10m
(TC 2) tall.
Terrain Category This is terrain with some trees and some other obstructions and
vegetation up to 600mm high as would be found in decentralised
2.5 (TC2.5) urban areas.
Terrain Category 3 This is terrain with closely spaced obstructions like mature trees
and other large structures of around 10 house-size obstructions
(TC3) per hectare.
Further Information may be found in AS 4055-1992 Wind loads for housing.

WALL FRAMING
FRAME CONSTRUCTION
PLATES
The size of plates will depend on the spacing of studs, floor joists, rafters or trusses, single or
double storey, stress grade of the timber and the species of timber used.
The majority of wall framing is constructed of Radiata pine, which is seasoned and thicknessed
and does not require the plates to be housed to take studs. Housing plates to take studs is only
necessary if rough sawn materials, such as Oregon and mixed hardwoods, are used. The
housing provides a constant plate thickness so all the studs may be cut to the same length,
which ensures the overall height of the frame remains parallel.
a
b
b
a = Amount that is gauged
to be left on.
In trenching plates for

studs, the amount left
on is constant
b = Approximately 10mm.
But varies if plates are not
of uniform thickness.
Uniform wall height
USE OF TRENCHING HEAD
Stud lengths are equal
b
a
Plates are to be trenched

approximately 10mm deep to provide
a uniform thickness where the studs
occur. However, its not the depth
thats critical here, but rather the
amount
left-on the plate. This is achieved by
gauging from the bottom of the plate
when setting out or making sure the
blade depth of a radial arm saw, fitted
with a trenching head cutter, is
constant while the bottom of the plate
is face down on the cutting bench.
WALL HEIGHT IS UNIFORM ALTHOUGH THE

THICKNESS OF BOTH PLATES VARIES
Fig. 7 Housing plates for studs
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JOINING PLATES
When plates are thicknessed and butt jointed,
they may be connected using patent metal
connectors. These connectors may be in the
form of a Gangnail type or a Nail-plate
type.
Nail plates
Plates butt
jointed
Alternatively, if plates are not thicknessed they

require scarfed or lapped joints, which provide
excellent connection but are time consuming
to prepare.
Fig. 8 Patent type metal plate connectors
Top plate
Extension of
gable roof
Solid Blocking
Studs
Bottom plates
Fig. 9 Scarfed and lapped plate joints
WALL FRAMING
STUDS
The size of the studs depends on the spacing, stress grade and timber species used. The most
commonly used stud spacings, for brick veneer construction, are 450mm and 600mm centre-tocentre. If the walls are clad with other sheeting, then the studs should be placed so the sheets
join on the centre of the stud edge. The studs should be kept flush on the lining side of the walls
for brick veneer construction and centred on the plates for timber framed construction.
CALCULATING STUD LENGTH
The finished floor to ceiling height of the rooms governs the length of the studs. The regulation
height for habitable rooms, unless otherwise specified, will be 2400mm.
Stud length = Overall frame height amount left on both plates, when,
A2 Clearance min.
12mm to truss
Stud length
Floor/Ceiling 2400 min
Thickened
plate
Stud length
Frame height A
A1
A1 Platform Floor: External wall

Top plate is 75mm thick;
Bottom plate is 50 thick;
Ceiling sheet thickness is 13mm;
Floor to ceiling height is 2400mm;
Amount left on top plate is 65mm;
and
Amount left on bottom plate is
40mm.
Stud length = (2400 + 13) - (65 + 40)
=
=
2413
105
2308mm
A2 Platform Floor: Internal wall

Top and bottom plates are 50mm
thick;
Clearance to truss is 12mm;
and
Amount left on top and bottom
plates is 40mm.
Determining stud length for trenched plates.

Trussed roof.
Fig. 10 Proportions for calculating stud length on

platform floor construction
Stud length =
[(2400 + 13) - (40 + 40)] - 12
= [2413
=
10
80]
- 12
2321mm
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Stud length
Frame Height B
Stud
length
Floor/Ceiling 2400 min
B Cut-in Floor: External and Internal walls
Top and bottom plates are 50mm thick;

Flooring thickness is 20mm;
Ceiling batten thickness is 25mm; and
Amount left on top and bottom plates is 40mm.
Stud length = (2400 + 13 + 25 + 20) - (40 + 40)
=
=
2458
2378mm
80
Determining stud length for trenched

plates. Traditional ceiling
Floor/Ceiling 2 400mm
Thickened
plate
Stud length
Frame height A
C1
C2
Clearance min.
12mm to truss
C1 - Platform Floor: External wall

Top plate is 70mm thick;
Bottom plate is 45 thick;
Stud length
Fig. 11 Proportions for calculating stud

length on cut-in floor construction
Stud length = (2400 + 13) - (70 + 45)
=
=
2413
115
2298mm
C2 - Platform Floor: Internal wall

Top and bottom plates are 35mm thick;
Clearance to truss is 12mm;
Floor to ceiling height is 2400mm; and
Stud length = [(2400 + 13) - (35 + 35)] - 12
Determining stud length for nontrenched plates. Trussed roof.
= [2413
70]
=
2331mm
- 12
Fig. 12 Proportions for calculating stud length

on platform floor construction using thicknessed
top and bottom plates.
11
WALL FRAMING
CALCULATING DOOR OPENINGS

HEIGHT
The height of the opening will depend on the position of the door, i.e. internal or external, the
type of door system, i.e. hung timber door and jamb, surface mounted sliding timber door and
jamb, patent cavity sliding door system, Aluminium sliding door with timber reveals, etc.
Other important information will include the type of flooring used, i.e. cut-in or platform, the
size of the timber door jamb material, whether or not the jamb has a timber or tiled threshold
and the type of floor covering or finish. All this information is required before the calculation
can be made, as not all door frame openings are the same size.
Note: Generally, the opening size is provided by the manufacturer in a brochure for patent and
modular door systems like cavity slider frames and sliding Aluminium doors.
The following examples are based on a standard 2040 x 820mm internal hung (hinged) timber
door and jamb system with different flooring systems and finishes;
Example 1:
Formula = carpet and clearance + door height + door head clearance + jamb thickness + clearance above head
2094
Calculation for the door opening height of a

stained internal bedroom door where the wall
frame is placed on a timber platform or concrete
slab-on-ground floor system and the floor is
covered with carpet.
NB: Allow 2mm door clearance for stained doors
and 3mm for painted doors. Also, allow 10mm
clearance above head of door jamb for deflection
of frame head trimmer.
2094
SECTION
ELEVATION
Fig. 14 Opening details
Calculation:
= 22 + 2040 + 2 + 20 + 10
= 2094 mm
Fig. 13 Door height opening
12
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Example 2:
Formula = thickness of flooring + underlay, vinyl and clearance + door height + door head clearance
+ jamb thickness + clearance above head
Calculation for the door opening height of a

painted internal kitchen door where the wall
frame is placed on a timber floor frame
with cut-in tongue and grooved flooring
and the floor is covered with hardboard
underlay and vinyl.
2108
NB: Allow 2mm door clearance for stained

doors and 3mm for painted doors. Also,
allow 10mm clearance above head of door
jamb for deflection of frame head trimmer.
SECTION
ELEVATION
Fig. 16 Opening details
2108
Calculation:
= 20 +15 + 2040 + 3 + 20 + 10
= 2108 mm
Fig. 15 Door height opening
13
WALL FRAMING
DOOR WIDTH
The width of the opening is based on the width of a stock door 820mm wide, jamb thickness
and clearances. An allowance of 10mm is provided on each side to provide room for
adjustment of the jamb if the frame opening studs are badly bowed or out-of-plumb.
Example 3:
Formula = width of stock door + (2 x door clearance) + (2 x jamb thickness) + (2 x clearance for packing)
Calculation for the door opening width of a stock

size painted internal bedroom door.
NB: Allow 2mm door clearance for stained

doors and 3mm for painted doors.
886 Opening
10
10
Calculation:
20
20
Door + clearance
= 820 + 6 + 40 + 20
= 886 mm
Fig. 17 Horizontal section through opening
CALCULATING WINDOW OPENINGS

HEIGHT
Window sizes are either shown on plan, listed in a specification or may be obtained from
manufacturers brochures. The height dimension is always stated first to remove confusion
regarding which dimension is which.
The position in height is determined by the height of the door openings so that no matter what
size window is used there will be uniformity of head heights throughout the structure. Once the
finished head height is established, an allowance of at least 10mm is added to locate the
underside of the lintel. This will provide clearance in case of lintel deflection under load.
Lintel
Eaves
lining
10mm
Fig. 18 Detail of window heads in-line and clearance under frame lintel
14
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WINDOW WIDTH
The position of the window will be pre-determined on plan in most cases, but may need some
adjustment to allow for the best position in relation to brick bond to avoid unnecessary cutting
and/or odd length bricks resulting.
The opening should be the overall size of the window frame plus 10mm clearance on either
side to allow for bowed or out-of-plumb window studs.
Note: Some frame designers make the opening an additional half brick wide. This allows the
secondary jamb studs, and the window, to be moved to suit brick bond. Once the correct
position is located the secondary jamb studs are nailed off and trimmed to the bottom plate.
This method may be useful where many windows occur in one wall of brick veneer
construction.
Window Stud
Timber reveal
10mm Packing
Nogging
Aluminium Sliding Window
Window Size
25
mm
Stud Opening Size
Face brickwork
Brick Sill
Fig. 19 Horizontal section through a sliding Aluminium window in brick veneer
O/A Window plus
To suit door head height
25mm
O/A Window plus

10mm min
10mm each side
To suit brick bond

Fig. 20 Proportions of the window opening
15
WALL FRAMING
STRAIGHTENING OF STUDS
Poor stacking, partial or uneven seasoning may lead to studs bowing, twisting or forming a
spring, which is a bend along the edge. These malformed studs may still be used but will
require some additional attention before the wall frames are finished and ready to receive
linings.
Once the wall frames are up and the ceiling frame is complete, the temporary braces are
removed from the walls. At this stage it may be necessary to go over the frames to complete the
fitting of blocks, loose or missing noggings and to straighten any studs with excessive spring.
This procedure is especially critical in the wet areas (bathroom, laundry, toilet, kitchen) so that
wall tiles may be laid onto a straight surface and to allow kitchen cupboards to be easily fitted
to straight walls.
The most effective method of straightening is as follows:
1.
Make a saw cut in the centre of the

hollow edge to a depth of
approximately half the stud width;
Make saw-cut
Half depth
SPRING
2.
Drive a thin timber wedge into the

saw cut while pulling the stud
straight. Skew nail through the saw
cut and wedge;
Push to
straighten
Drive wedge
in, then nail
through cut
and wedge
STRAIGHTENED
3.
Nail a timber cleat to the face of

the stud over the saw cut and
wedge to reinforce the cut stud.
Nail cleat to
side
Cut off remainder

of wedge
STRENGTHENED
Fig. 21 Method of straightening studs
16
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NOGGINGS
Noggings, also referred to as noggins, nogs or dwangs (NZ), are horizontal members cut in
between studs at a vertical spacing of not more than 1200mm c/c.
They are designed to provide lateral strength and stability to the wall frame, while at the same
time keeping the studs straight and providing a means of fixing for sheet claddings and/or
linings.
To ensure that the studs remain straight and parallel each nogging should be measured between
each pair of studs at the bottom plate. They may be fixed in a straight horizontal line or
staggered, to allow for ease of nailing. The section size of noggings tends to be thinner than that
of the plates and studs, as they are not considered to be of the same structural importance.
Rule used to measure in
between studs
ds
Stu
Bottom wall plate
Fig. 22 Method of measuring noggings to ensure studs remain parallel
In-line
row
1350 max.
2400
Additional
row where
spacing
exceeds
1350 c/c
2700
Staggered
row
Fig. 23 Position and fixing of noggings

17
WALL FRAMING
LINTELS
Lintels, also known as heads, provide continuous support across an opening. The section size
depends on:
Span of the opening;
Stress grade of the timber or type of patent lintel;
Whether single or two storey; and
Type of roof and roof covering.
Note: Sizes and stress grades may be obtained from AS 1684 National Timber Framing Code.
The following details show how lintels are designed and fitted to the studs of openings:
A-A
Detail B
Jack stud
not housed
into lintel
Jack stud
OPENINGS LESS THAN 1200mm

10mm Max
C-C
Nogging to next stud close to joint

is good practice
D-D
Ledger for jack

stud support
OPENINGS GREATER THAN 1200mm
E-E
Thick lintel
THICK LINTELS TO OPENINGS
GREATER THAN 1200MM
F
Secondary jamb stud
Plywood sheathed intel

ALTERNATIVE METHOD USING PLYWOOD
Extend
Detail
H
70mm Min
J-J
Preformed rigid
steel lintel
PRESSED METAL SECTIONS
Fig. 24 Details of common lintel systems

18
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CONNECTING AND JOINING FRAMING

FRAMING JOINTS
There are various methods used for joining plates to studs and connecting plates at
intersections. One method is to use housings for studs and lapped or scarfed joints for
intersections. This system tends to be labour intensive due to the accuracy required in setting
out and cutting, but it does allow for quick and accurate location of frames during the assembly
and erection procedure. Also, the connections are very solid and permanent.
TEE HALVING JOINT
Used where internal walls intersect or where
they intersect with external walls, at 90, along
the length o a wall.
CORNER HALVING JOINT

Used where internal walls intersect at a 90
corner or where external walls intersect at 90,
at either internal or external corners.
THROUGH HOUSING JOINT

Used to locate and connect studs to plates
Fig. 25 Common methods of connecting and jointing frames
The alternative is to use sized, seasoned timber and simply butt joint all connections and secure
with patent metal connector plates. This is the preferred system for pre-fabricated frames,
which are used widely in the residential building sector.
19
WALL FRAMING
STUD CLUSTERS
The most commonly used methods of creating stud clusters are as follows:
EXTERNAL CORNER Timber frame cottage
Sawn timber with wall on joists, for a cut-in floor
INTERSECTION Timber frame cottage

Sawn timber with wall on joists, for a cut-in floor
Corner stud cluster to

fix cladding and lining
Solid Blocking
Intersection stud cluster

to fix cladding and lining
Solid
blocking
Bottom plates
housed to take
studs
Bottom plates housed

to take studs
Double joists under external wall
EXTERNAL CORNER Brick veneer cottage

Seasoned and thicknessed timber with wall over
joists for a platform floor
Double joists under

internal wall
INTERSECTION Brick veneer cottage

Seasoned and thicknessed timber with wall
over joist, for a platform floor
Corner stud cluster to

fix linings
ntersection stud cluster

to fix linings
Solid blocking
Platform flooring
Bottom plates set out

to fix studs
Bottom plates set out

to fix studs
Platform flooring
Double joists under external walls
Single joist under load-bearing internal wall
Fig. 26 Common stud clusters for cut-in and platform floors

20
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CONSTRUCTING WALL FRAMES

SETTING OUT PLATES
Before the set out commences, the plans should be studied to allow the person setting out to
become familiar with the room layout, measurements, orientation, opening positions and
member sizes. Always check the plan measurements to make sure that incremental
measurements add up to overall measurements.
Once the dimensions have been checked, a system of marking the walls needs to be decided
upon. Plates should be marked and cut in pairs, i.e. top and bottom plates together, to maintain
accurate and parallel spacing of studs. A suggested method is outlined below:
Method:
Identify each pair of plates in relation to the room which they belong, e.g. Bed 1 / Hall
by numbering the walls on the plan. They may be marked from 1 onwards in a clockwise
direction around the external walls and then continue with the internal walls. The length of
plates should be determined by either room sizes or a manageable length, e.g. preferably not
longer than around 5.4m;
Identify each plate as being either top or bottom, marked Top and Bot;
Identify the orientation of the plate ends, e.g. N S or E W;
Mark window and door openings with arrows and identify, e.g. l D1l or l W2l;
Set out position and thickness of all studs in pencil with an lXl , whether they are to be
housed or not; and
If the plates are to have scarfed joints they should be marked as lONl or lOFFl, to identify
which side is to be checked out, e.g. all walls running north to south will have the face left
ON and all walls running east to west will have the face taken OFF.
Note: Markings should be in a coloured crayon and on the top face of each plate so they may
be seen when the frames are erected.
Fig. 27 Floor plan of a brick veneer cottage

21
WALL FRAMING
Example 1:
The plan in Fig. 8.27 shows the layout of a 3 bedroom brick veneer cottage, with the entry
facing North. The front wall of bedroom 1 and the entry has been selected. The framing is sawn
Oregon with stud spacings at 600 c/c and the plates will be housed and scarfed.
off
WEST
W1
BED 1
BOT
off
D2
EAST
off
off
WEST
W1
BED 1
TOP
off
D2
EAST
off
Fig. 28 Completed plate set out
METHOD OF SETTING OUT PLATES

The following steps outline the procedure involved to set out the wall plates, on the north side
of Bedroom 1/Entry, as highlighted on the floor plan in Fig. 8.27. The plates, window and door
studs are out of 100 x 50 sawn Oregon and the common studs are out of 100 x 38 sawn Oregon.
STEP 1
Identify the wall and calculate its total length from the measurements shown on
plan, i.e. 100 + 3555 + 100 + 1210 + 100 = 5065mm (allows for scarfed joints
both ends).
Select two straight lengths of 100 x 50 sawn Oregon, 5.1m long.
Square one end of both plates, measure 5065mm, mark and cut to length and then
cramp or tack nail the plates together. (plates are pinned together so they can be
accurately marked at the same time).
Plates pinned together
5100
5065
Fig. 29 Prepare plates
STEP 2
100
off
off
Set out the position of the scarf joints on both ends, plus any intersecting wall
connections. Also mark the position of 38mm common studs, which form the stud
clusters.
Note: Allow 50mm studs where a door or window stud forms part of the stud cluster.
38mm studs
100
1210
off
off
off
off
50mm door stud
Fig. 30 Mark position of scarf joints and stud clusters

22
100
CARPENTRY - HOUSING
STEP 3
Prepare a brick setout or storey rod. This rod should have brick bond marked on
one edge (which is the 230mm length of the brick face plus 10mm mortar joints),
brick gauge marked on the second edge (which is the 76mm thickness of the brick
plus 10mm mortar joints), vertical frame set out on the third edge (which shows the
bearer, joist, platform flooring if used, bottom plate, window sills, door and
window lintels and the top plate), and the fourth side may be used to show any
other special features, such as full stud length.
The table and details below may be used as guides to create a setout rod.
Note: Openings greater than 25 bricks wide are not shown in the Table.
TABLE 4
Brick dimensions
METRIC STANDARD BRICK DIMENSIONS

METRIC STANDARD BRICK: 230 x 110 x 76 mm
JOINTS: 10mm VERTICAL GAUGE: 7 courses = 600mm
23
WALL FRAMING
Top plate
Window
head
Door head
Sill plate
Bottom plate
Joist
Bearer
STOREY ROD
VERTICAL SET-OUT
G.L.
Fig. 31 Details for the setout rod
Fig. 33 Set out the position of door and window studs

24
HORIZONTAL SET-OUT
ROD FOR BRICK BOND SET-OUT
Brick courses
CARPENTRY - HOUSING
25m
m
Brick Bond Rod
Window
Opening
SETTING OUT WINDOW STUDS USING A ROD
Window Size
Stud Opening Size
TYPICAL MANUFACTURERS METAL WINDOW DETAIL
Fig. 32 Using the set-out rod for positioning windows
25
WALL FRAMING
STEP 4
Set out the position of 100 x 50 door and window studs, using the setout rod, to
suit brickwork. Mark the plates to identify the openings.
1810
1190
905
D2
D2
W1
W1
(Brickwork under Window)
(no brickwork over door)
Fig. 34 Set out the position of the common studs
STEP 5
600
Set out the position of 100 x 38 common studs at 600mm c/c. Start at one end from
a known corner stud and set out spacings at 600mm, working in-to-over. Place one
in the centre of the door opening.
600
600
600
600
Place one in the centre of the

door opening on top plate only.
Fig. 35 Identify plates with common notation
STEP 6
WEST
WEST
Finally, identify the plates using the suggested notation on page 22.
BED 1
BED 1
BOT
TOP
EAST
EAST
Repeat the process for all plates in the cottage, then stack them neatly ready to be scarfed and
housed.
At this point all the studs may be marked off the setout rod, cut to length and stacked ready for
assembly. Also, special studs such as window and door studs may have sill and lintel positions
set out, using the rod, and are housed ready for assembly.
CUTTING SCARFS AND HOUSINGS
26
CARPENTRY - HOUSING
USING HAND TOOLS

Cutting scarfs and housings using hand tools, although accurate, tends not to be an economical
method when preparing for a full set of cottage frames. However, it may be a convenient
method to use when only a small number of frames are constructed. Minor extension and
renovation jobs are the most likely situations for using hand tools, e.g. the job may only require
one or two walls to be constructed, therefore setting up and using power tools may be more
time consuming or inconvenient.
USING MACHINERY
Portable power tools, e.g. power saw, drop saw, drop/slide saw, etc., are probably the most
commonly used tools to cut framing joints, due to the ease of transporting to site and efficiency
of use.
The radial arm saw, complete with trenching head, will be the most efficient where a large
number of frames are to be prepared and cut. However, it may not be worth while transporting
and setting up the radial arm saw when only small numbers of frames are to be constructed.
The benefits of using the radial arm are the consistent results, speed and quick removal of
housings using the trenching head.
PREFABRICATED WALL FRAMES
Prefabricated or pre-cut wall frames are commonplace in the residential building sector. The
system provides pre-cut, pre-assembled frames delivered to site ready to erect. Most frames are
constructed from stress graded, seasoned and sized Radiata pine with a variety of seasoned
hardwood or patent lintel systems.
The frames come complete with either adjustable metal cross braces, cut-in metal angle braces,
supplied with ply or hardboard sheet braces or a combination of these systems. The ends of the
walls are butt jointed and connected using patent metal plate connectors when the frames are
erected.
The frames are numbered and delivered with a layout plan to allow for easy location.
This system reduces on-site labour and cost with the advantage of being accurately set out, cut
and assembled in a controlled quality assured environment.
There are several other framing systems which may be used in load-bearing and non loadbearing situations. Non load-bearing partitions tend to be modular in design and made of
lightweight components such as plywood and Aluminium.
Steel frames are also used for residential and commercial structures. Steel partitions are the
most common type used in commercial work, however load-bearing steel wall frames only
make up a very small percentage of residential construction compared to timber.
27
WALL FRAMING
WALL FRAME ASSEMBLY

Select a suitable level work area to assemble the frames. This may be the top of a concrete slabon-ground or the surface of a platform timber floor. Designate an area, clear of the floor area, in
which to store the completed frames ready for erection. There should be two separate stacks,
i.e. one for the external walls and one for the internal walls. Prepare an erection plan so that the
frames erected last are the first to be assembled, which will allow them to be placed on the
bottom of the stack in the reverse order of erection.
After the preparation is complete, follow the steps below to assemble the frames:
STEP 1
Select the prepared plates for the nominated wall. (the example used here is the
same as used for bedroom 1/entry of the brick veneer cottage in Fig. .27)
Lay them on-edge approximately one common stud length apart with the spring up,
preferably with the inside face of the frame up as well to ensure that studs may be
kept flush with the plates on the inside.
Select corner and wall intersection studs, also with the spring up, and fix them into
position.
50mm corner stud/

door stud
Top plate inside edge
Recessed edge concrete
slab on-ground
38mm intersecting
wall corner studs
38mm corner stud
Bottom plate inside edge
Fig. 36 Preparing and creating the outside of the wall frame
STEP 2
Select and fix special door and window studs into position. Then place all other
common studs and fix them into position.
Note: Sight the edge of each stud to ensure the spring is up in all studs.
28
CARPENTRY - HOUSING
Door studs
checked out
weekly for trimmer
Window studs
checked out
ready for lintel
and sill
Remaining common studs fixed

into place
Fig. 37 Fixing door, window and common studs
STEP 3
Fix the lintel, trimmers, blocking, noggings and trimming studs into place.
Fix head
trimmer
Fix trimming studs

over lintel
Fix lintel and sill

trimmer
Blocking for
wall fixing
Fix trimming studs

Fix noggings
Fig. 38 Fix lintel, noggings and trimmers
29
WALL FRAMING
STEP 4
The frame is then squared by measuring the diagonals and adjusting the frame
until both diagonals are exactly the same measurement.
Diagonal metal braces with tensioners, metal angle and timber batten braces may
be fitted flush with the face on the inside. They are used where the panel size
allows them to be placed at approximately 45 and the brace will not pass across a
door or window opening. To achieve the 45 angle the brace is laid across the face
of the frame with one end meeting the top corner intersection and the bottom
placed in a distance equal to the height of the frame, from the end.
Where small panels between openings occur, sheet bracing is the preferred
method of bracing. Due to the thickness of the sheets, i.e. 3mm up to 9mm, they
are fixed on the outside of the frame or if used internally, they must cover the
whole surface of the wall, to prevent a step occurring in the lining sheets.
Therefore, it will be necessary to flip the frame over to fit the sheets on the cavity
side of the wall, as shown below:
Frame flipped over

to allow fixing
of sheets
Sheet bracing
nailed off
along bottom
Top of bracing is
temporarily nailed to
allow for adjustment
during erection
Fig.
39 Square frame and attach sheet bracing
STEP 5
Repeat the process for all the frames and stack them, in a convenient place for easy
access, off the ground on gluts. They should be stacked in the reverse order so that
the last frame on the stack is the first frame required for erection.
As previously mentioned, create separate stacks for internal and external walls to
prevent unnecessary moving and re-stacking of frames.
30
CARPENTRY - HOUSING
WALL FRAME ERECTION PROCEDURES

PREPARATION
Prior to standing frames, the slab or timber floor frame should be checked for overall size and
square. This is critical, as load-bearing wall frames may only over-sail the edge of the
supporting floor by 15mm maximum. This also applies to the external brickwork on a recessed
slab edge where the cavity is maintained at 40mm, as an increase in overall frame size will
increase the overall brickwork size as well.
Therefore, careful checking of the floor structure will allow for frame position adjustment and
will prevent excessive over-sail on only one side.
The following procedure may be adopted to allow for quick, easy and accurate frame erection:
STEP 1
Check the overall size of the floor frame or slab and check for square.
Where a slab-on-ground is used, frame positioning is best identified by setting out
all the wall positions using a chalk flick-line. A small amount of time spent prior to
erection could save massive amounts of wasted time trying to adjust frame
positions once all the frames are standing.
Check the diagonals of the slab over the largest area, then start from one square
corner setting out all the frames by chalking onto the slab as shown below:
Note: The set out below is based on the brick veneer cottage shown in Fig. 27
Measure diagonals for

equal length
Start the setout from a

known square corner
Set out all wall frames on

the slab using a chalk line
Fig. 40 Check slab for square and set out all frame positions
31
WALL FRAMING
STEP 2
Start at the square corner and erect two external frames. Nail the bottom plates at the
ends of each plate only. Dont nail the plate between the door studs, as this section
of plate will be removed at the completion of the erection procedure.
Nail external corner scarf joints together or skew nail through plates and then fix a
metal connector plate if walls are butt jointed together.
Attach temporary braces to the ends of the frames to provide a rigid corner and firm
attachment points for the next lot of frames. These temporary braces may be cleated
to the concrete floor or attached to pegs driven into the foundation material around
the outside.
Note: It is preferable to have at least two persons to lift and position frames, which
makes it easier and safer than one person.
Sheet braces hold

walls square ready
for adjustment
Temporary
braces
Cleats nailed
to slab
Ends of frames
nailed to slab
Fig. 41 Stand a corner and temporarily brace frames
32

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CARPENTRY - HOUSING

TAFE NSW Construction and Transport Division

Metal angle brace

Top wall plate

Door head trimmer

Secondary Jamb studs

Bottom wall plate

Effect of random loading

Fig. 2 Increasing top plate thickness for trusses or 2nd storey

Also referred to as a head, it is a horizontal member placed between studs, walls

Studs and plates are saw-cut to

Fig. 4 Diagonal timber or metal bracing

Straps are to be adequately tensioned,

TAFE NSW Construction and Transport Division

Sheet bracing this is a very strong

Nail spacing edge

Nail spacing intermediate

TAFE NSW Construction and Transport Division

WIND LOADING AND CLASSIFICATION

This is the classification given to a building site based on the surrounding

This is exposed, open terrain with only a few or no obstructions.

Further Information may be found in AS 4055-1992 Wind loads for housing.

In trenching plates for

USE OF TRENCHING HEAD

Stud lengths are equal

Plates are to be trenched

WALL HEIGHT IS UNIFORM ALTHOUGH THE

Fig. 7 Housing plates for studs

TAFE NSW Construction and Transport Division

Alternatively, if plates are not thicknessed they

Fig. 8 Patent type metal plate connectors

Fig. 9 Scarfed and lapped plate joints

TAFE NSW Construction and Transport Division

Floor/Ceiling 2400 min

A1 Platform Floor: External wall

A2 Platform Floor: Internal wall

Determining stud length for trenched plates.

Fig. 10 Proportions for calculating stud length on

TAFE NSW Construction and Transport Division

Floor/Ceiling 2400 min

B Cut-in Floor: External and Internal walls

Top and bottom plates are 50mm thick;

Stud length = (2400 + 13 + 25 + 20) - (40 + 40)

Determining stud length for trenched

C1 - Platform Floor: External wall

Fig. 11 Proportions for calculating stud

Stud length = (2400 + 13) - (70 + 45)

C2 - Platform Floor: Internal wall

Determining stud length for nontrenched plates. Trussed roof.

Fig. 12 Proportions for calculating stud length

TAFE NSW Construction and Transport Division

CALCULATING DOOR OPENINGS

Calculation for the door opening height of a

Fig. 14 Opening details

Calculation for the door opening height of a

NB: Allow 2mm door clearance for stained

Fig. 15 Door height opening

TAFE NSW Construction and Transport Division

Calculation for the door opening width of a stock

NB: Allow 2mm door clearance for stained

Fig. 17 Horizontal section through opening

CALCULATING WINDOW OPENINGS

Aluminium Sliding Window

Stud Opening Size