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STREET VIEW

THE
MANUAL

LOCA L DISH

13.

W HERE T O GE T
SERIOUSLY COSY
IN BUDA PEST

For a taste of
Hungary the way
Grandma used
to make it, enjoy
a plate of chicken
paprika at PestBuda bistro.

The 1,000-year-old heart of the Hungarian capital isnt just a pretty face its
abundance of snug spots are ideal for eating, drinking and shopping the winter away

ALABRDOS

PEST-BUDA BISTRO

2 Orszghz utca
Enjoy a bit of history with
your meal and step into this
14th-century building with
vaulted ceilings, suits of
armour and even one room
with an Arthurian round table.
Everything is made exclusively
from Hungarian ingredients
and served with local wines.

3 Fortuna utca
Its hard to imagine a more
Hungarian dish than chicken
paprika (with the exception
of goulash) and the one at this
recently reopened 17thcentury tavern is outstanding.
The number of locals tucking
into the traditional food is
always a good sign too.

alabardos.hu

pest-buda.com

028

WORDS SCOTT ALEXANDER YOUNG


PHOTOS TIM E WHITE

most
visitors
to
Budapest
will visit the quaint
cobblestone
streets and smart
town squares
adjacent to Buda Castle. But, as the days
get shorter, this is also where to hunker
down and get warm with some good
old-fashioned Hungarian comfort food
and a glass of Egri Bikavr (or any other
Hungarian red). After all, the dishevelled
ruin bars of downtown Pest will still be
there in summer...

W H O S B E HIND
T HE C O U N T E R ?
FIAN KONCEPT
BUDAVRI RTESVR

26-28 ri utca
There are, of course, many
gift shops in the area of
the castle, so Fian Koncept
makes a nice change, as
gnes rgyeln, assistant
manager, explains: We
wanted to open a store
showcasing the work of
talented designers,
instead of tacky souvenirs.
We opened four years ago
to introduce a new form of
gift culture through
Hungarian producers. The
backpacks from Budapest
brand Artista were the big
hit of the past summer.
Buy here for something a
bit dierent. an.hu

4 Balta kz
We recommend you skip the
calorie counting and nd out
how good the strudel is. They
make it with various llings,
including cheese, poppy seed,
peach, cherry, plum and
traditional apple. Dont leave
without trying their lngos
either, a deep-fried at bread
thats a Hungarian favourite.
budavariretesvar.hu

T HE S HE L F IE
Everything in Fian Koncept
is made by a local artisan or
Hungarian producer
Blacklist notebooks,
on bottom shelf, from
2,700HUF (8.80)

Zsanett Kincses concrete


jewellery, above, from
6,000HUF (19.50)

029

THE
MANUAL

DONT MISS...
The seven towers of Fishermans
Bastion (Halszbstya), with their
panoramic views over Budapest
and the Danube, have to be on the
must-do list. Though it may appear
much older, the bastion was actually
built in 1905 on the site of a medieval
sh market. shermansbastion.com

CAF RUSZWURM
7 Szenthromsg utca
An impossibly quaint place
that opened in 1827, its
Biedermeier-era interior
is original, including the
cherry-wood counter,
displaying all sorts of sinful
confectionary and cakes,
including the signature
chocolate torte. Yum.

T R E AT
YO U R S E L F
The Ruszwurms
custard slice
(krmes) cake will
only set you back
450HUF (less than
2). Coee is also
very reasonable, at
650HUF (2).

ruszwurm.hu

L O C A L K NO W L ED GE
OR SZCS
Motion designer
Ive lived in Berlin and worked a lot in
London, but something always brings
me back to Budapest. I would say
Pest is where you go to party, but to
come up to the Fishermans Bastion
is a great way to nd calm in the
city. The view is incredible and every
street, in fact, every house around
here has a story to tell."

030

RED DEVIL (VRS


RDG)
20 Orszghz utca
With seating both outdoors
and in an underground cellar,
this playful, devil-themed
restaurants menu is lled with
popular Hungarian favourites
and a few Mediterranean
dishes too. Finish with the
sweet Hungarian Tokaji wine.
reddevilbudapest.com

INSIDE OU T
The whole red and grey
look gets a very up-to-date
makeover at Baltazr Bar

Climbing and sailing rope


& leather bracelets
Personalised
engraving available
If it feels like gin-oclock,
come in for the good
selection here, served with
Fentimans tonic water

Baltazr is proud to offer


approximately 200 wines,
particularly those from the
Carpathian Basin region

KOLLER,

BALTAZR,

5 Tncsics Mihly utca


The longest running, privately
established gallery in Hungary
is also one of its most inviting.
It showcases gurative
contemporary art and
sculpture by established and
emerging Hungarian artists. If
its not too cold outside, ask to
see their enchanting garden.

31 Orszghz utca
The dcor of this chic hotel
bar has a contemporary
designer look, which is a nice
little breath of modernity
among all the cobblestones
and candlesticks. And the
wine list and extensive drinks
menu are equally on-trend.
Local craft beer, anyone?

kollergaleria.hu

baltazarbudapest.com

031

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