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Deep water soloing over the years has become one very popular way for
dalmatian climbers to do a good training without sweating due to high
temperatures in the summer time. Here in Dalmatia we are blessed to
have who-knows-how-many locations for practicing this way of climbing
since this is a country with 1000 islands and interesting thing is that
almost every island has vertical or overhanging cliffs on its south side.
Very important thing to say about Dalmatian deep water soloing is that
we have very friendly sea with practicly no danger from it. We have red
so many articles from all over the world, especially Mallorca and Dorset,
and main problem for people over there are jellyfish which may become
very dangerous for climbers or any humans. Adriatic sea doesnt have so
many jellyfish, and the one we do have are so rear and not so dangerous. We do not have dangerous sharks or any other life treating danger
living in the Adriatic.
Short history of DWS in Croatia
First tracks of deep water solo in Croatia started in mid 90s in Split
town region, local area called Sustipan, where Dalmatian climbers came
and saw overhanging cliffs and immediately started to climb. Interesting
thing is that traditionally we climbed barefooted, without chalk. Because
of this, you needed some period of adaptation, specially for your feets
who would become bloody very often. It was brutal! Only beginners
were wearing climbing shoes until they adopted. Its so funny to remember those days. After Big up production movie Psihobloc DWS started
to become must-do-thing here, and it started to develop in lots of ways.
First we have realized that without climbing shoes we are limited with
hard routes. So we started to use them and it was a relief! The hardest routes in the region were instantly repeated(we are talking about
grades up to 7b+) and we were ready for new, harder and higher places.
Today we have climbers who are practicing only deep water soloing during the summer. They are opening new routes, exploring and developing new areas, preparing topos and waiting for strong climbers to come
again. Today we are climbing with chalk so we are even preparing bolts
under the specific lines, just above the sea surface so climbers can swim
to it, get out and dry, put some chalk and go. It is a different story and
we find it much more challenging this way.
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2005. best world climbers came to Croatia and went to Kornati archipelago (the best DWS area in Dalmatia). They spend couple of days
climbing in National park and they succeeded to climb the hardest DWS
route in the world until then, Ring of fire 8b+. This event has been recorded and distributed all over the world known as climbing movie DEPTHCHARGE. This was the spark that started DWS revolution in Croatia.
2006. we have been visited by World champion Tomas Mrazek who also
tried deep water solo for the first time.
Here we bring you some of the most popular Deep Water Solo areas
here in Dalmatia.
Locations for DWS in Dalmatia
1.
2.
2.
3.
4. Hvar
5. Vis
6. Kornati Archipelago
- National Park
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EUROPE
SPLIT AREA
SUSTIPAN
CROATIA
DALMATIA
SPLIT
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Sustipan, Split
Sustipan, Split
Sector A
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Sector B
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Sector A
Sector B
Sector A
Sector B
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SPLIT
KATALINKA
KATALINKA area is very small deep water solo area with just a dozen
routes, but very popular since its very easy to reach it from the city
harbour. The wall is not high, so its very nice for beginners with easy
grades too.
How to get there?
Katalinka is placed on the east side of the main city harbour so It is easiest to explain how to reach it from there. To get here you wont need
the boat, its reachable by foot, only ten minutes of walking from the
Split center. You just walk from the ferry station towards east, follow
the road which slightly goes uphill until you dont find yourself on the
bridge where from you can see main city beach, Bacvice. That hill you
are standing on is Katalinka, where on its south side lies our wall for
deep water solo.
Potential is not something this wall offers. All good lines has been
climbed and there is no room for more.
Note
Not every part of this wall is possible to climb due to very shal-
Katalinka
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SPLIT
KASJUNI
KASJUNI area is very nice and popular city beach few km west from
Sustipan. It lies below Santine stine, very popular sport climbing area.
The wall itself is very friendly for beginners in deep water solo. Not too
high, lots of holds and very good structure of the rock and easy grades.
We definitely recommend this place!
APPROACH
The wall is very easy to approach from the road which goes West at Marjan peninsula. It is possible to reach the wall by swimming from Kasjuni
beach, or walk on the top of the wall from the main road, on the junction for Kasjuni beach down to the South following dirt road for just few
minutes. The wall lies spreading between the beach and Vila Dalmacija,
which is known in the history as Titos Vila, area where is forbidden to
swim.
Note
Not every part of this wall is possible to climb due to very shallow water
or very large boulders inside of the water.
Check the depth before climbing!
KASJUNI
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Kasjuni
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CIOVO
CIOVO is very close to Split area with a great DWS potential. Development of DWS started 2005. and there are just about 110 routes (5c-7c)
to climb there. Routes are usually much higher (up to 20m) than on
Sustipan area and climbing is more serious and dangerous. Certain sectors are impossible to climb without chalk! Possibilities for hard routes is
enormous!
There is 12 sectors so far and interesting thing about them is that
every one is different from the other by the height, rock formation, holds and color, so you feel like visiting completely different
area. There is a big number of projects here on Ciovo and we cant
wait for some strong climbers to come and climb some of those!
How to reach Ciovo?
Al do it is very probably the best deep water solo area in the region, it is
very hard to reach it without a boat and even if you get on the south side
of the island, the distance between sectors is to large to swim. By car
you can get to Gospa od Prizidnice, monastery which lies on the south
side of the island just by the vertical cliffs of Ciovo and you can have
there great day of swimming in the crystal clear sea with beautiful colors.
Note!
Our company Avantura d.o.o. is organizing deep water solo
trips. Please do contact us for details!
SPLIT AREA
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Sector TRIANGLE
SECTOR TRIANGLE
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Sector ORANGE
SECTOR ORANGE
1.
2.
3.
4.
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5. Run to sun, 6b+, 11m FA: D.Piccini, no logical end, the holds are dissapearing
6. Project
7. Project
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Sector GRANIT
SECTOR GRANIT
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Sector SHARP
SECTOR SHARP
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Sector NB
SECTOR NB
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
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Sector SUSTIPAN
SEKTOR SUSTIPAN
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Sector WHITE
SECTOR WHITE
1.
2.
3.
4.
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Sector DVICA
SECTOR DVICA
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
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Project, 16m *
Project, 12m *
Project, 10m *
Project, 18m *
Tasmanijska neman, 6b,13m, FA: Rick Webb *
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6. Project, 19m
7. Livada, 5a, 10m, FA: D.Piccini
8. Project, 7m
9. Natko ti si car, 6b, 5m, FA: D.Piccini
Very demanding and hard sector. Easiest routes has been climbed, only the hard projects left. The rock is very sharp.
Four projects have bolts placed at the bottom of the routes!
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Sector BIG
SECTOR BIG
1. Project,
2. Project,
3. Project, 7b+? *
4. Morski pas, 6a,12m, FA: D.Piccini
5. Project,
6. Plankton, 6a, 12m, FA: R.Webb
7. Project, *
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8. Project, 7a?, *
9. Jukebox, 7b, 9m, FA: D.Piccini *
+ext, project
10. Project, ? 15m *
11. Golupcici, 6a, 12m, FA: J.Zekan *
12. Project, *
Great sector, the highest one! Many routes, easy ones, too. The 3 hardest
projects have bolts placed at the bottom of the routes!
www.avantura.biz
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Hvar ISLAND
Very popular tourist destination in Dalmatia is Hvar island, the most sunniest island in Adriatic sea, 300 sunny days in a year is a good invitation
for you to come and check it out why. In climbing way this is also very
popular destination for sport climbing, but DWS too. The best location is
Sveta Nedilja, very small but very beautiful area famous among local red
wine production.
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I.Franceschi, Sustipan
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Vis ISLAND
DALMATIA
placed on the south side of the island. Not to many lines here to climb
but what is there is very attractive. So far there has been climbed just
three lines.
Zelena spilja is very small island belong to Viski skoji archipelago. In
the middle of the island there is a cave with a little hole in the middle
where the sunlight goes through and creates green light inside of the
cave. The DWS routes here are easy, with possibility for some harder
lines. Height is very friendly, up to 13 metres. The rock is very sharp.
Bisevo island has become famous for its Blue Cave, very popular and
touristy place. Definitely worth visiting! This island doesnt give us to
many potential for climbing, but if you find yourself by the boat in the
close distance, we surely recommend to come here. One of the walls
is in Porat, the small cove on west side of the island famous among its
sandy beach.
STINIVA
STINIVA
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ZELENA SPILJA
Zelena spilja
BISEVO
1. Project, 12m
2. Zlatna pirueta, 5a, 13m, FA: D.Piccini
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Kornati ISLANDS
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Contact:
info@dalmatiaclimbing.com
+385915295990; +385915052163
Partners:
We have been outdoors for a long time and we have lots of partners we
are working with. Here are some :
www.marulianus.hr
www.avantura.biz
www.dalmatina.net
Publications:
AVANTURA
ADVENTURES
organize
adventure day trips
in Dalmatia!
Check out our website for
details!
www.avantura.biz