Trophy Deer Stand Plans

4 X 6 Plans

4 x 6 Deer Stand Plan & Material List.

Thank you for your interest in my deer stands. I have been
hunting for 40 years and have seen just about all the types of
hunting blinds imaginable. I have seen blinds that range in
cost from $50.00 to $1,500.00. I have tried to come up with a
plan that is economical, simple and easy to build. If you
follow my plans you can build a stand that is comfortable,
warm and ready to hunt. First you need to go to your
lumberyard and pick up this list of materials.
1) 1--4'x8' sheet 5/8" CDX plywood
2) 6--4'x8' sheet 3/8" CDX plywood

3) 1--2"x4" x 8' treated

4) 2--2"x4" x 10' treated
5) 25--2"x2"x8' furring strips
6) 2--10' corrugated roofing
7) 2lbs 1 5/8" deck screws
8) 2lbs 3" deck screws
9) 30--1" wood grip screws for roof
l0) 17--3" butt hinges
11) 6--3" barrel bolts
12) 2--3" hasps
13) 15' 1/4" Nylon rope
14) 7--1 x 2 x 8" furring strips (optional)
Estimated cost of material $220.00. You will need a drill,
circular saw, a screw bit and a 5/32 drill bit for your drill. So
if you have all your tools and material ready, lets get started.
Step 1. Base
First step we will build the base to your stand. You need 1-2x4x8' and 2--2x4x10'. Cut 2--2x4's 69" long, 2-2x4's 48"

long, 2-2x4's 45" long and assemble them as in Fig. A. Cut 1

piece of 5/8" plywood 48" x 72" and screw it down to the
base frame.
Step 2. Front frame:
Cut 2--2x2x72", 2--2x2x69", 2--2x2x75", 1--2x2x25", 1-2x2x35" and assemble them as in Fig. B. Drill a 5/32" hole
through the ends of the 2x2 so they wont split and screw
them together with the 3" deck screws, it is not necessary to
drill pilots for the screws that are not on the ends.
Step 3.
Back Frame with door: Cut 2--2x2x72", 2--2x2x69", 2-2x2x45", 1--2x2x22 1/2", 1--2x2x9", using 3"deck screws
assemble this section as in Fig. D. Don't forget to drill the
pilot holes on the ends of the 2x2's.
Step 4:
Take the front frame and set it on the base and screw it
down using 3" deck screws. Then take the back frame and
set it on the base and screw it down likewise. "NOTE" you
can install the back door section either right or left, which
ever you prefer. Once you get these screwed down they
should stand on their own.

Step 5.
Right and left end section frame: Cut 6--2x2x45", cut 4-2x2x45 7/16 with a 15% bevel at each end to fit the roof
taper. Install these between the front and back sections as in
Fig. C. (When referring to Fig. C, remember the front and
back vertical 2x2's are existing, all you need to install are the
horizontal sections.) Measure up from the floor 38" and
screw one 45" 2x2 between the front and back wall. Measure
up 12" more and place another 2x2 from front to back. Place
one on the floor and screw it down, then place one of the
angle cut 2x2's at the top. Repeat these steps on the opposite
side. Then measure and locate the remaining 2 angle cut
2x2's in the roof for additional support. Space them equally
apart. Now your stand is completely framed and ready for
the plywood.
Step 6.
First lets cut the 3/8" plywood to the correct dimensions. Rip
1--4x8 sheet into two pieces 24"x96", then cut one of these
pieces into 1--28" long, 1--40"long and 1--12"long this is the
short half of the front, top, bottom and window. Take the
other piece and cut 1--62"long for the door and 1--12" long
for above the door. Cut one piece 48"x40", 1--48"x12", 1-48"x22" this is the rest of the back. We already have the

short half of the front so take another sheet and cut 1-48"x28", 1--48"x40", and 1--48"x12" top, bottom and
windows. Right and left side cut 2--48x28", 2--48x40", 2-48x12", top, bottom and windows.
Step 7.
Screw the plywood to the frame work, top and bottom
sections only, starting at the bottom and working up. This
will square up the stand. Notice that the plywood protrudes
2" below the floor, this is very important because it locks the
base to the frame; screw it in good and tight. When you
reach the top two side sections, screw them up temporarily
and scribe the angle cut to be made on them, make the cut
then screw them back up permanently.
Step 8.
Door; Cut 2--2x2x58", 3--2x2x19" assemble these as in Fig.
E. (Make sure you drill the pilot holes) once you have
completed this screw the piece of plywood (24x62") to the
door making sure it is flush at the top and on the hinge side
and protruding at the bottom and on the right side of the
frame. The door is now ready to hinge and hang. Use 4
hinges.

Step 9.
Windows: Cut 6--2x2x44 1/2", 2--2x2x68 1/2", 10--2x2x8
1/2". Now assemble the window frames as in Fig. F. Three
small ones and one large one. (Don't forget the pilot holes).
Once you have completed the frames, screw the plywood
down to them letting it protrude 1 3/4" at each end. the
windows are now ready to hinge and hang. Use 4 hinges on
the front window and 3 on all the rest. "NOTE" You can cut
peepholes in the windows and cover them with Plexiglas, this
will adhere fine with silicone sealant.
Step l0.
ROOF: You should have one sheet of 3/8" plywood left, 48 x
72". Cut two 10' pieces of corrugated metal to 60"lengths.
Take the plywood and screw it down to the roof. I know it
don't cover all the way but that trophy buck will never
notice, besides we're going to cover it with the corrugated
metal. Arrange the metal on the roof overlapping the way
you prefer and screw it down using the 1" wood grip screws.
Be careful to align the screws with your rafter supports.
Step 11.
Cover the corners with the 1x2 furring strips if you prefer
and paint your stand well to keep the plywood from
deterating.

To hold the windows open I use a nylon rope about 1/4" dia.
Drill a hole through the bottom of the window and another
hole above the window. Take the nylon rope and run it out
through the hole in the window tying a knot in the rope so
that it won't pull through, and back through the other hole.
Now the window can be raised and the rope tightened to
hold it open. Drive a nail or a screw in the 2x2 to loop the
rope over to hold the window open. To hold the windows
shut use the barrel bolts, affix them to the windows and the
door. To secure the door when you leave your stand use the
two hasps, snap them shut or lock them. You can put carpet
on the floor and walls inside to make your stand more
comfortable, you can install shelves below and above the
windows. Best of all you can install a portable heater. You
can do all this with the money you saved by building your
own stand.