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DIY I awesome totes, home dec, accessories & more

special issue 2015

30
MUST-HAVE

PROJECTS

TO CROCHET NOW!

SASSY LACE
CORSET SOCKS
LACE CUFFS
NECKLACE
& MORE

HOW TO

CROCHET

step-by-step

guide

GEEK CHIC

Embrace your
inner Time Lord

PLUS
Hot Crochet Books
Yarn Play
Macram, Pom-Poms, & More

InterweaveCrochet.com

40+

projects!
Coming 11/15

BAGS
VESTS
SCARVES
MITTS
HATS
& MORE

shop.crochetme.com

Contents
Crochetscene | 2015

Projects
Get Your Geek On
19 Riverbend Skirt
Jennifer Raymond

Features
Another Layer
101 Plaiter Scarf
Brenda K. B. Anderson
Instructions page 110

Instructions page 28

20

Cyborg Scarf
Daniela Nii

21

Oodles Scarf
Sue Perez

22

Cyborg Bag
Daniela Nii

103 GF*BF Mitts


Suzanne Hirth
Instructions page 113

Instructions page 32

105 Isosceles Cowl


Brenda K. B. Anderson
Instructions page 110

Instructions page 34

106 Baskerville Cowl


Jill Wright
Instructions page 114

Instructions page 30

23

Caffeine & Chocolate


Molecules Earrings
Lori Carlson

108 Wriggle Wrap


Edie Eckman
Instructions page 112

Departments

Instructions page 26

24

Network Purse
Shelby Allaho

002
004
006
116
128

Instructions page 35

25

016 Book Excerpt:


3 Skeins or Less:
Quick Crocheted
Accessories
Sharon Zientara
038 Yarn Play
Vickie Howell, Lily Chin, Marcy Smith
072 Book Excerpt:
It Girl Crochet
Sharon Zientara
076 DIY Mesh Bags
Jennifer E. Ryan
082 Everyday Crochet
Kathryn Vercillo
118 Crochet Basics

Crossed Arrow Vest


Jennifer Raymond
Instructions page 27

Photo Index
Editors Note
Mercantile
Project Designers
Back Page

Fresh Takes
47 Bubbles Sweater
Jill Wright
Instructions page 69

48

Tribbles Vests
Doris Chan

50

Originator Tote
Nicoletta Tronci

52

Swish-Swish Skirt
Jill Hanratty

Instructions page 58

Instructions page 64

get the

Instructions page 54

Windsong Necklace
Kathryn White

87

Puff Shrug
April Garwood

89

Lace Cuffs
Alla Koval

90

Corset Socks
Brenda K. B. Anderson

Instructions page 98

sh

Instructions page 94

86

Tribbles Vests
op

co
m

KIT

Siren Song
84 Bow Wrap
Jennifer Raymond

e.
.cro
chetm

Instructions page 94

Instructions page 97

Instructions page 92

91

Petal Top
Natasha Robarge
Instructions page 95

Above:
Tribbles Vest,
Page 48.
On the cover:
Petal Top, Page 91.
Photos by Harper Point Photography

Photo Index | your handy visual guide

get your geek on

Book Excerpt
Corona Cowl
Page 16

Cyborg Scarf
Pages 20, 32

Oodles Scarf
Pages 21, 34

Riverbend Skirt
Pages 19, 28

Cyborg Bag
Pages 22, 30

Caffeine & Chocolate Molecules Earrings Pages 23, 26

Network Purse
Pages 24, 35

Wall Hanging
Page 40

Fun Flowers
Page 41

Yarn P lay
Crossed Arrow Vest
Pages 25, 27

Pegboard Art
Page 42

Macram Necklace
Page 41

Pom-Pom Wreath
Page 42

Bubbles Sweater
Pages 47, 69

2 Crochetscene

2015

Pom-Pom Garland
Page 43

Tribbles Vests
Pages 48, 58

Weaving Sticks Bag


Page 44

Originator Tote
Pages 50, 64

Book Excerpt
Sienna Top
Page 72

Swish-Swish Skirt
Pages 52, 54

Crochet your bag


your way

DIY Mesh Bags


Page 76

Bow Wrap
Pages 84, 94

Windsong Necklace
Pages 86, 98

Corset Socks
Pages 90, 92

GF*BF Mitts
Pages 103, 113

Puff Shrug
Pages 87, 94

Lace Cuffs
Pages 89, 97

Plaiter Scarf
Pages 101, 110

Petal Top
Pages 91, 95

Isosceles Cowl
Pages 105, 110

Baskerville Cowl
Pages 106, 114

Crochetscene

Wriggle Wrap
Pages 108, 112

interweavecrochet.com

Editors Letter | Welcome to Crochetscene!

I love page 23. Truly, I love every single page, but page 23
embodies every little bit of what we love about Crochetscene.
Go ahead and take a look. Ill wait here.
Its awesome, yes? What I love about this page starts with the
imaginatively geeky design conjured up by Lori Carlson: crocheting molecules of caffeine and chocolate. That is awesome all by
itself, but also she did them in thread, so you can dangle them
from your ears! She even explains the exact molecular structure,
in case you want to know. Selecting projects for all the Interweave
Crochet issues is a wonderful, humbling experience, and
Crochetscene attracts truly inspired designs. I never cease to be
amazed at what designers dream up.
The stunning model was made even more stunning at the
hands of our talented hair-and-makeup stylist, Janie Rocek, and
wardrobe stylist, Tina Gill. This shot was taken at the end of two
days of cold, cold, snowy weather. We were winding down, but

Special Issue

Editorial Director Helen Gregory


Editor Marcy Smith
Managing Editor Allison Mackin
Assistant Editor Rachel Koon
Projects Daniela Nii, Sarah Read
Technical Editors Joan Beebe, Lindsay Glenn, Julie

when the late-day sun burst into the room, making our model
(impossibly) more beautiful, our tireless photographer, Nathan
Rega, snapped these final shots and our magic was wrapped
for the moment.
Our page designer, Kit Kinseth, unwrapped the shots and
made selections, designing a page that shows both the beauty
of the photographs and also the detail on the project. Because
thats what its all about: showing the project clearly enough
that you can see it. Behind the scenes on this page is Daniela
Nii, our stunt project editor, who combed over the pattern so
that you can re-create it without a stumble. But we werent
finished yet. The earrings call for a few jewelry skills to make
them as shown (you have the option of skipping this step, of
coursethey are your earrings). So our assistant editor,
Rachel Koon, added information to let you know where you
can find a terrific instructional video and free eBook, both
produced by our sister beading group. Since we know you are a
crafty lot, we thought youd like to know.
This one page is but an example of what you will find on all the
pages of this special issue of Crochetscene: terrific designs clearly
shown to inspire and create, with information about more
Interweave products that can enhance your creative experience.
(Be sure to check out our Crochetscene-exclusive section Yarn
Play, which includes macram, pom-poms, and weaving!)
Well get out of your way now, so you can get about the magic
of making.

{ and the whole Crochetscene gang! }

Crochetscene is a special issue of Interweave Crochet (ISSN 19370008) published by Interweave, a division of F+W Media, Inc., 4868
Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5546. (800) 272-2193. All
contents of this issue of Crochetscene are copyrighted by F+W Media,
Inc., 2015. All rights reserved. Projects and information are for
inspiration and personal use only. Reproduction in whole or in part is
prohibited, except by permission of the publisher.
Weve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents
of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have
questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please visit us online
at interweavecrochet.com/corrections.asp.

Armstrong Holetz, Marty Miller, Kristine Mullen,


Daniela Nii, Elizabeth Sullivan, Lorna Wilkey
Copy Editor Laurel Robinson
Proofreader Nancy Arndt
Crochet Me Editor Toni Rexroat
......................................................................................

Crochetscene, a special issue of Interweave Crochet does not


recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers,
products, services, or views advertised in Crochetscene. Nor
does Crochetscene evaluate the advertisers claims in any way.
You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating
the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in
Crochetscene.

Creative Director, Interweave Larissa Davis


Art Director Kit Kinseth
Production Designer Lee Ann Short
Photography Harper Point Photography
Photostyling Tina Gill
Hair & Makeup Janie Rocek
Technical Illustration Joan Beebe, Lindsay Glenn,

Visit the Interweave Crochet website at interweavecrochet.com.


For advertising info, call Diane Kocal at (317) 482-0120,
email dkocal@interweave.com, or visit the website at
interweavecrochet.com.
For sales info, call (317) 482-0120, email sales@interweave.com.
For editorial inquiries, call (800) 272-2193,
email crochet@interweave.com, or write to
4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576

Julie Armstrong Holetz, Kristine Mullen, Daniela Nii


......................................................................................

Advertising Manager Diane Kocal


Advertising Manager Sally Finnegan
Ad Trafficker Mary Lutz
Classified Advertising Tina Hickman
Marketing Manager, eCommerce Julianne Atwood

4 Crochetscene

2015

U.S. & Canadian Customer Service: (800) 835-6187


International Customer Service: (515) 237-3657
Fax Number: (712) 733-1277
Retailers: If you are interested in carrying this magazine in your
store please call (800) 289-0963 or email sales@fwcommunity.com.

Founder, Creative Director Linda Ligon


Vice President, Group Publisher Shahla Hebets
Senior Production Manager Nancy Pollock
Vice President, eCommerce Marketing Evelyn Bridge
Director, Magazine Marketing & Fulfillment
Mark Fleetwood

......................................................................................
F+W, A Content + eCommerce Company
Chairman & CEO David Nussbaum
Chief Operating Officer & CFO James Ogle
President Sara Domville
Chief Digital Officer Chad Phelps
Senior Vice President, Operations Phil Graham
Vice President, Communications Stacie Berger

Enjoy the entire family of Interweave


Fiber Magazines:
Handwoven Interweave Knits Interweave Crochet
Knitscene knit.wear PieceWork Spin.Off

Visit us on the web


crochetme.com interweave.com fwmedia.com

Mercantile
A gathering of goodies selected just for you.

We love Gleener Bags!


These adorable bagsfrom the folks who brought us the Ultimate Fuzz Removerare
big enough to hold large projects such as sweaters, and cute enough to make you the
envy of all your friends (and neighbors, and coworkers, and people on the street...).
The sturdy canvas construction makes them durable, so you can carry one wherever
you go. Believe us, youll want to!

www.gleener.com

6 Crochetscene

2015

All

Things

Ready to set up your crochet tool box? Here's some cool stuff from Tulip.

Tulip Hooks
Be prepared for on-the-go crochet with this
limited-edition hook set. The Etimo Rose Hook Set
from Tulip has ten hooks from sizes 2.00 mm (just
smaller than a B) to 6.00 mm (J) so you can work on
projects in a range of gauges. (Note that the hooks
are marked in numbers only, but you can easily
slide in a chart with U.S. letter equivalents if thats
helpful to you.) The convenient carrying case has
a clear zippered pouch to hold your pattern, stitch
markers, scissors, or other small items. Were
partial to this adorable gingham, but the case is
also available in solid pink.

bit.ly/tulip-hook-set

Tulip and Heart Stitch Markers


Put a smile on your face with these fun, cheerful
stitch markers from Tulip. The user-friendly design
means these markers will stay put on your projects
but are easy to add and remove. The round-nose
locking mechanism is designed not to split your
yarn. Available in tulips and hearts, they come in a
handy tin so you dont have to worry about keeping
track of them while you work.

bit.ly/tulip-stitch-markers

Crochetscene

interweavecrochet.com

Mercantile | things youll love

ON THE BOOKSHELF

Colorful Crochet Lace:


22 Chic Garments and Accessories

Designer Crochet:
32 Patterns to Elevate Your Style

3 Skeins or Less:
Quick Crocheted Accessories

Mary Jane Hall

Shannon Mullett-Bowlsby

Sharon Zientara

Crochet a range of colorful lace designs


from Colorful Crochet Lace, including
chic shrugs and scarves, cozy cardigans
and tunics, stylish dresses, T-shirts,
and totes. Worked in a variety of yarn
weights, the projects include simple,
allover openwork patterns as well as
intricate crochet lace patterns and
motifs. With clear instructions, detailed
stitch diagrams, and gorgeous photography, Colorful Crochet Lace makes it easy
to create exquisite crochet fashions.

In Designer Crochet, youll find a collection of sophisticated and figure-flattering


garments for wearers of all sizes. Shannon uses a variety of stitch patterns,
motifs, and lightweight yarns to show
you how to create beautiful pieces such
as cardigans, dresses, tanks, and hoodiesplus several accessories. With
more than thirty projects to choose
from in sizes small through 5X, crocheters can create an entire wardrobe from
this one book.

Grab your crochet hook and whip up


some fabulous projects from 3 Skeins
or Less: Quick Crocheted Accessories.
Join Sharon Zientara and her selected
designers as they share budget-friendly
projects that are quick to crochet or offer
a beautiful way to use a special skein of
luxury yarn. With twenty-four to choose
from, including hats, scarves, shawls,
caplets, socks, slippers, mittens, and
more, youre sure to find multiple projects to make for yourself or as gifts.

Paperback, 160 pages, $24.99


ISBN: 9781620336984

Paperback, 224 pages, $22.95


ISBN: 9781454708728

Paperback, 136 pages, $22.99


ISBN: 9781620337891

The Crochet Home

The Crocheters Skill-Building


Workshop

Finger Knitting Fun: 28 Cute, Clever,


and Creative Projects for Kids

Emma Lamb
Transform your home with this beautiful
collection of twenty vintage modern
crochet projects for the home, including flower garlands, blankets and
throws, and delightful doilies and pillows. Emma shares her unique skill for
combining colors as well as key tips on
crochet techniques, presented in both
written patterns and stitch diagrams.

Paperback, 144 pages, $24.99


ISBN 9781446304853

Dora Ohrenstein
Dora Ohrenstein explains all the basic
crochet techniques you need, from selecting the right yarn to finishing. More
than seventy stitch-along swatches
demonstrate specific techniques, plus
five projects let you put your new skills
to work. Dora shows you how you can
use the swatches to create a variety of
shapes and create building blocks for
projects of your own design.

Paperback, 256 pages, $19.95


ISBN: 9781612122465

8 Crochetscene

2015

Vickie Howell
Have a ball of yarn, bored kiddos, and
some spare time? Then you need Finger
Knitting Fun, a collection of twenty-eight
quick and simple projects perfect for
kids. Each project includes step-bystep, easy-to-follow instructions, as
well as skill level indicators so kids can
choose a project thats right for them.
From jewelry to bags to room dcor,
kids will enjoy creating these projects
for themselves and their friends!

Paperback, 96 pages, $19.99


ISBN: 9781592539253

In the Loop

I Cherry Blossom Necklace


I recently was gifted with a subscription to your
magazine Interweave Crochet. What a wonderful treat! The patterns were wonderful, but
best of all they inspired me to create my own
projects. I made the Cherry Blossom Necklace
from the Spring 2015 magazine, which inspired
me to make a new bracelet design, which led to
another necklace and bracelet.
I cant wait to start my next project from your
beautiful magazine.
Jennifer Y.
Hillsdale, Michigan
Jennifer, how lovely! Readers, if you are interested in subscribing to our
regular quarterly magazine, you can write to crochet @emailcustomer
service.com. You can see previews of our issues at www.crochetme.com.
You can find our next special issue, Interweave Crochet Accessories, on
the newsstand in early November. Hope to see you again soon!

More Crochet Adventures!


Are you a crochet
newbie? Were so glad
you picked up this copy
of Crochetscene! On page
118, youll find all the
basic info to get started
on this most excellent
crochet adventure.
We cant take responsibility, though,
if you are unable to stop once you get
started. In fact, were going to go a step
further and enable you! Here are a few
resources in our very own Crochet Me
Shop, starting with super-newbie and
taking you up to more adventurous. Step
right in wherever you feel is best!
1 Well start you off with the Beginners
Guide to Crochet. In addition to instructions and diagrams, this book has 20
super projects from one-day potholders
to a full afghan. It also has a special extreme crocheting section with informa-

tion on making yarn from old t-shirts


to create large-scale projects.
bit.ly/beginners-guide-crochet
2 Want to focus your new crochet
skills? Feel like youll learn better
with someone right there to walk you
through the steps? Let Mary Beth
Temple into your home to guide you
through making your first hat. This
brimmed bottom-up hat will make a
great gift as well!
bit.ly/crochet-first-hat
3 Are you ready to make sense of all
those nifty drawings in your crochet
patterns? Dora Ohrenstein will help

you understand the symbols and how


they work together in the diagram, so
youll be able to crochet patterns from
anywhere, even if the written part is in a
different language!
bit.ly/read-stitch-diagrams
4 When youre ready to step up your
crochet game, this is a book youll definitely want in your collection. Throughout the book, Kim Werker provides
excellent tips and engaging commentary.
The stars, of course, are the Designs
to Fuel the Crochet Revolution, which
are just as amazeballs now as when the
book came out in 2007.
bit.ly/crochet-me-ebook

Crochetscene

interweavecrochet.com

Mercantile | things youll love

Lily Chin has been designing for Interweave


in crochet (and knitting!) for a while now. Her
innovative approach to craft means that her
designs are always interesting to crochet and
her eye for couture means that the designs are
always stylish. Those are just two of the things
that we love about Lily. Her mastery of crochet
combined with her wicked wit makes for truly
engaging, informative DVD workshops. Dip into
Lilys worldyoull be glad you did!
bit.ly/lily-chin

Crocheters Toolbox

GO LILY!

bit.ly/crocheters-toolbox

Lily Chin, one of our favorite designers, as well as a well-known


crochet and knit designer, was inducted intothe Jean Leinhauser
Crochet Hall of Fame at the Crochet Guild of Americas annual conference held in San Diego, California. We particularly love Lilys
innovative approach to most everything fiberycheck out what
she made with weaving sticks and a crochet hook on page 44.
The Crochet Hall of Fame honors those who have made significant contributions to the excellence and promotion of the art of
crochet; inductees are nominated and elected by CGOA members. The first inductee was Jean Leinhauser, a longtime crochet
designer and publisher, who, sadly, lost her battle with cancer
before she could receive the award in person. The honor was
then renamed the Jean Leinhauser CGOA Hall of Fame. Inductees
since include Margaret Hubert (2012) and Rita Weiss (2013). In
2014, the twentieth anniversary of CGOA, the honor went to Gwen
Blakely Kinsler, the founder of the Crochet Guild of America.
The Crochet Guild of America, founded in 1994, provides education, networking resources, and a national standard for the quality, art, and skill of crochet. More information about membership
and how to form local chapters of CGOA can be found at www
.crochet.org. In addition, you can find out how you can attend the
2016 conference with a fabulous group of crocheters and honor
the next inductee into the Crochet Hall of Fame.
Hope to see you there!

Lace Skirt with


Drawstring Waist

bit.ly/lace -s

ry Dressress
Geometom
etry-d

Susan Sullivan
CGOA President

bit.ly/ge

LEARN MORE
about Lilys great
Interweave products
bit.ly/lily-chin

10 Crochetscene

2015

Glam Dress

bit.ly/croche
tsummer-201
5

kirt-drawstri

ng

Learn Crochet
Cables

How-to video with


Robyn Chachula

3 Techniques for Cable Stitches!


Have you always wanted to create beautiful,
textured cables in crochet, similar to the
designs youve seen in knitting?
Join designer, author, and crochet expert Robyn
Chachula! Learn how to create 3 types of easy crochet
cables using post stitches, chain stitch embroidery,
and short rows! Use the 3 included patterns to crochet
throw pillows to accent your home!

Download your copy of Learn


Crochet Cables: 3 Techniques
for Cable Stitches today!
Downloadable video: 50 minutes

shop.crochetme.com

Mercantile | things youll love

Get Inspired!
Did our Yarn Play feature (page 38)
whet your appetite for more craftiness? Then weve got a treat for
you! Cathe Holden combines different mediums across various crafts
to create unique pieces from everyday, found objects. Shes gathered her
ideas and projects in her new Inspired Barn
Creative Workshops video and kit series. Heres
more information from Cathe about her projects
and sources of inspiration.
What is Inspired Barn all about?
After an incredible, wide-reaching audience response to my design
and craft blog, JustSomethingIMade.com, I was often asked to
instruct and speak at various creative events around the country.
With young children at home it wasnt always ideal for me to be
away. So after a few years of traveling to teach, it occurred to me
that I could invite attendees to classes in my very own workshop here in Petaluma in Northern California. My husband and
I repurposed a large storage outbuilding on our property into a
big craft studio and classroom. Here I can work, craft, assemble
kits, and host DIY events in my community.
Unfortunately, teaching primarily here in Northern California
limits my workshop availability to those who live in the area.
Thats why Im so very excited about my new video series, all
filmed right here at Inspired Barn! I can now share my favorite
craft projects, techniques, and style withanyone!

How did you get started crafting?


I suppose Ive always been a crafter. Even as a small kid I was
assembling bits of junk found among the gravel in the alleyway,
or scraps of office supplies my mom brought home from work,
into funky works of art. As an old-school commercial artist, I
segued into handcrafting as more than a hobby a few years after
most all graphic design tasks became digitized. I missed working
with my hands and began spending time in online communities
such as Etsy. I embraced a new and exciting way to pursue my
creative endeavors while
satisfying my need to
work with physical tools
and materials through
crafting. It was then that
I began sharing a graphic
designers take on crafting on my blog.

How do you envision


your style of crafting
fitting into the lives of
others?
I share only what is
completely pleasing to
me. I search out vintage
components, and I love
them. They excite me.
12 Crochetscene

2015

Rather than choosing items that I think other


people will like, I choose what I like. I think
when I am true to my own loves, people will
follow, at least some of them. And it makes me
happy. My thing is vintage flair. Bold colors.
It is my intention to create projects and products
that are both simple and impactful. I do this by
designing exciting crafts with easy-to-follow instructions,
sharing loads of inspiration for customizing, and developing
uncommon materials and products.
Ive tried a lot of things, but now I say, This is my style. How can
I apply it to a variety of different mediums? The challenge, as a
teacher, is also to find things that can be reproduced. If I find a
unique object at a flea market, I can make something that I could
sell, but I need to ask myself how someone else could achieve
the same look.
My vision is for Inspired Barn to become a vintage-style brand
known for facilitating individual creativity, repurposing, and
reimagining. Through instruction, ideas, products, and materials, it is my hope that Inspired Barn will become an extraordinary
handcraft resource for multiple craft genres online, in print, and
in stores.

Do you have any advice for someone looking to branch into


other kinds of crafting?
Workshops, whether local to you, at creative events, or online,
are a fantastic way to try a new style of crafting. Most workshops
provide kits for purchase that have most of the things you will
need to create a finished project. Once the project is complete, you
will know for sure if you would like to continue in that direction of
crafting or not. If youre wanting to try something new on your own
and outside of a workshop, use online videos to learn about the
various tools, materials, and techniques before spending too much
money on supplies that you may or may not enjoy using.
You may also consider incorporating the craft techniques you
know into fun, new projects. Try machine stitching and handstitching paper projects; use small, vintage, or scrapbook
components to embellish your sewing projects; handstitch flowers, tiny pockets, or other fun shapes into components for use
in collage, mixed media, even jewelry crafts. Use your stash as
dcoupage elements.
Editors note: This is an excellent opportunity to experiment with
those tiny flowers you crocheted or bits of leftover yarn.

Have you ever had a major project mishap?


Nothing major yet, but certainly lots of small mishaps, which
more often than not took a project in a fantastic new direction. I
believe mistakes should be embraced when possible. So much
good can come from a happy accident.
And this is what we love most about Cathe Holden and about all
crafts: mishaps often lead to beauty, not only in the crafted product, but also in our own minds. Creating broadens our outlook and
encourages innovation and problem solving in a quest to make our
vision a reality.

CLEVER WALL
HOOK

TRAY &
COASTERS

BAY LAUREL
MIRROR

VIDEO

Mercantile | things youll love

Top Design Tips

I from Cathe Holden

We love these tips because they can be applied to all


sorts of crafts, including crochet designs! We added
some notes after Cathes great tips with examples of
how to apply them to crochet.
CONTRAST CREATES IMPACT.
Pair objects and materials of an unlikely nature: soft with
rough, dark with light, shiny with dull. A good example
would be combining shiny, gilded hardware with rough,
distressed wood.
Combine thick yarn with thin yarn, using the same
crochet hook, to make a scarf that has contrasting dense
crochet fabric with airy fabric.

BALANCE SOOTHES THE EYE.


If you use a spot of red in one area of your design, add
red of any nature, size, or form to two other areas. This
concept works for textures and shapes as well, adding
a harmonic feel to your finished piece.
This is a great way to approach a motif afghan! You could
also apply it to a motif-based shawl or top, incorporating
your own color scheme.

bit.ly/babette-blanket

STEP AWAY FROM PINTEREST.


Grab a sketchbook and pen. Find a quiet place to be still and close
your eyeseven if that means sitting in your car in the driveway.
Daydream. Design from within, rather than looking elsewhere for
resources and inspiration. Imagine beautiful, pleasing images and
compositions. Open your eyes and sketch them in your book, adding necessary notes for future reference. You might be surprised
at just how creative you truly are.
Nuff said! Imagine your ideal project, sketch it, then use your pattern
and yarn resources to figure out how to make it happen.

bit.ly/crochet-garden
14 Crochetscene

2015

CROCHETED ACCESSORIES
easy as 1,

2, 3!

In Quick Crocheted Accessories, author


Sharon Zientara debuts a lovely collection
that makes use of one, two, or three skeins
of yarn. Allowing for both unexpected color
play and larger projects, featured designs
include stitch patterns and motifs that are
textural, reversible, and fresh. From scarves
and shawls to hats, fingerless mitts, and
socks, Quick Crocheted Accessories shows
just how much can be done with three

QUICK

crocheted
accessories
3

skeins
or less

skeins or less!
Sharon Zientara

Available Now

www.interweavestore.com

9781620337981 | US $22.99/CAN $25.50 | 136 pages

Book Excerpt

Corona
Cowl
Brenda K. B. Anderson

16 Crochetscene

2015

Excerpt from
3 Skeins or Less:
Quick Crocheted Accessories
By Sharon Zientara

This cowl was inspired by the


stackable jelly bracelets of the
1980s. Its fun to watch each tube
stripe up in a new color. The cowl
is also easy to customize by simply
removing or adding tubes.

Interweave/F+W 2015

GET THE
BOOK
bit.ly/3-skeins
-or-less

Getting Started
Finished Size Size S with directions for sizes M and L in parentheses. Each tube measures about 22" (56 cm) in circumference and
about " (2 cm) tall. Sample is shown with 8 tubes. Cowl will
stretch at least 2" (5 cm) in circumference to fit over the head.
Button strap measures 8 (9, 10)" (20.5 [23, 25.5] cm) long, including
about 2" (5 cm) of overlap when buttoned.
Yarn Sportweight (#2 Fine). Shown here: Zitron Unisono (100%
virgin superwash wool; 328 yd [300 m]/3 oz [100 g]): #1203,
2 skeins. Yarn distributed by Skacel Collection, Inc.
Hook Size F/5 (3.75 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain
correct gauge.
Notions Stitch marker (m); yarn needle; 1" (3.8 cm) button;
embroidery needle or sewing needle and thread (if the button
holes are too small for an embroidery needle and yarn to fit
through).
Gauge 20 sts and 14 rounds = 4" [10 cm] in hdcbb stitch pattern
worked in the round. You can also check your gauge by working
one tube and checking the fit. (See Note.)

Note
Each tube is made beginning with a long foundation chain. The
first row is worked into the bottom of the chain, and the remainder
of the tube is worked in the round without joining. A round of sl sts
will attach the foundation row to the last row worked, creating a
hollow tube.

Stitch Guide
Half double crochet through the back bar (hdcbb): This is
just a regular hdc st made into the back bar of the previous round
of sts. The back bar is the horizontal strand on the WS of a hdc st
situated about halfway between the top and bottom of the stitch.
When you work into this stitch, the RS will be facing you, and you
will tilt the work towards you to see the back of the hdc, slide your
hook through the bar from top to bottom (in a downward motion), yo
and pull up a loop, yo, and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

TUBE (MAKE 8)
Ch 121.
Row 1: Beg with second ch from hook and working in bottom bump
of ch, hdc in each of next 120 sts120 sts. Place st marker (pm) in
top of beg hdc. Do not join.
Rnd 2: Beg with the marked st, and being careful not to twist
the strip of crochet, 1 hdcbb (see Stitch Guide) in each st
around120 sts.
Rnds 37: Hdcbb in each st120 sts.

Rnd 8: 2 hdcbb sts in beg st (to reposition the working lp), ch 1, turn
work so WS is facing, fold work with WS tog (foundation ch is directly
in front of last rnd worked), sl st these two edges tog by working
under the front lp of foundation ch (the edge in front) and at the
same time, under the back bar of the last rnd worked (the edge in
back). When working into back bar, insert hook under back bar in an
upward motionfrom bottom to top. Make sure that sl sts are loose
as to not affect the elasticity of the tube.
Fasten off, leaving a 10" (25.5 cm) yarn tail. Use yarn needle and yarn
tails to sew the little holes closed at beg of rnds. Weave in ends.

BUTTON STRAP
Strap is designed to fit 46 (79, 1012) tubes and measures 8 (9,
10)" (20.5 [23, 25.5] cm) in length, including a 2" (5 cm) overlap.
Ch 39 (45, 51).
Row 1: Leave long beg tail (to sew button on), starting with 12th ch
from hook, and working in bottom bump, sc in each of the next 28
(34, 40) chs.
Rnd 2: Keeping the same side facing, rotate piece 180 degrees to
work in opposite side of foundation ch, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sts
(pm in first hdc of rnd to keep track of beg of rnds), hdc in each of
the next 26 (32, 38) sts, 18 hdc in ch-lp, hdc in each of the next 26
(32, 38) sts, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts78 (90, 102) sts. Do not
join, but continue to work in the rnd with RS facing.
Rnd 3: [2 hdcbb in each of the next 2 sts, hdcbb in each of the next
35 (41, 47) sts, 1 hdcbb into each of the next 2 sts] twice86 (98,
120) sts.
Rnd 4: [2 hdcbb in each of the next 2 sts, hdcbb in each of the next
39 (45, 51) sts, 1 hdcbb in each of the next 2 sts] twice94 (106,
118) sts.
Rnd 5: [2 hdcbb in each of the next 2 sts, hdcbb in each of the next
43 (49, 55) sts, 1 hdcbb in each of the next 2 sts] twice102 (114,
126) sts.
Rnd 6: Sl st in the back bar of each st around. Make sure that sl
sts are loose enough so they will not constrict the edges of the
button strap.

Fasten off.

FINISHING
Block lightly if necessary.
Use embroidery needle and beg yarn tail to sew button to RS of
button strap. The center of the button should match up with the
point where this yarn tail comes out of the fabric. Weave in ends.
Wrap button strap around tubes and fasten button.

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2015

Riverbend Skirt by Jennifer Raymond.


This practical skirt has an advanced
sense of fun, with a good bit of drape
and movement. Shaped with wedges of
crochet, the skirt has a bit of an A-line
silhouette. Work the skirt in one color
for a more professional look, or mix it
up and alternate colors on the wedges.
Yarn: Misti Alpaca Tonos Pima Silk.
Page 28.

Give your wardrobe a twist of the twisted.

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Cyborg Scarf by Daniela Nii.


Interstellar nights can be nippy, so be sure
to travel with this colorful scarf. Circles
morph into rectangles that are joined as
you go with bobble strips. Colorful tassels
finish off the scarf. (Its easy to customize
with your own color options as well.)
Yarn: Lion Brand Wool-Ease. Page 32.

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2015

Oodles Scarf by Sue Perez.


This lacy scarf has oodles of wearing
options, including a casual cowl, a ceremonial sash, a cozy scarf, or a multiwrapped neck warmer. Thread the
tendrils through the crochet wormhole
for maximum warmth, or let the wavy
ends blow free. Yarn: Lornas Laces
Shepherd Sock. Page 34.

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Cyborg Bag by Daniela Nii.


This tote is bigger on the inside, so it
has plenty of room for your extraterrestrial paraphernalia. Worked flat in
tapestry crochet, dots of color march up
a neutral gray background; the bottom
of the bag is worked from the center out
in colorful concentric circles. A single
shoulder strap allows for easy carrying, and a drawstring cinches the bag to
keep your screwdriver from falling out.
Yarn: Lion Brand Wool-Ease. Page 30.

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2015

Caffeine and Chocolate Molecules


Earrings by Lori Carlson.
Get your geek on with this set of molecules! Caffeine and theobrominea
molecule found in chocolateare
structurally similar, with the difference being an additional methyl group
bonded to a nitrogen. The methyl groups
are represented by a triple picot; the
double-bonded oxygens are represented by an open picot. (For supergeeks,
1,3,7-trimethylpurine-2,6-dione and
3,7-dimethylpurine-1H-2,6-dione are
the systematic names for caffeine and
theobromine, respectively.)
Yarn: Lizbeth Thread Size 20 (distributed by Handy Hands). Page 26.

LEARN
MORE ABOUT
BEADING
bit.ly/Jewelry
-Making-Guide
bit.ly/Simple-Loops

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23

Network Purse by Shelby Allaho.


A modern silhouette is a blank slate
for surface crochet embellishments,
including an on-trend mesh insert. A
medley of stitches make this a great
sampler project for learning new
stitches, and its easy to purse-onalize
with your own favorite colors.
Yarn: Schachenmayr Catania (distributed by Westminster Fibers). Page 35.

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Crossed Arrow Vest


by Jennifer Raymond.
Worked in one piece with seaming only
at the shoulders, this simple vest is a
great first garment. Back-loop-only
crochet creates a ribbed fabric that
gently hugs the body, and broomstick
lace finishes the edging. Wear open or
with a shawl pinor pen. Yarn: Plymouth
Yarn Encore Chunky. Page 27.

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25

Geek

beads; two 1" pieces of beading wire or 2


headpins; round-nose pliers; chain-nose
pliers; wire cutter (optional).
Gauge: 12 sc = 1".

Notes
Functional groups methyl and carbonyl
are worked in hdc.
First rnd is worked the same for both
molecules.
Join with sl st at the end of each rnd
unless otherwise stated.

Stitch Guide
Carbonyl group: Ch 8, sl st in 6th ch
from hook and in next 2 ch, sl st in hdc at
base of ch-8.
Methyl group: Ch 6, sl st in 3rd ch from
hook, [ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook] 2
times, sl st in 3 unworked ch of beg ch-6,
sl st in hdc at base of ch 6.

CAFFEINE AND
CHOCOLATE
MOLECULES
EARRINGS

Pattern
Base molecule for caffeine and
chocolate:

Lori Carlson

With mocha brown dark for chocolate or


mocha brown med for caffeine, ch 18, sl st

in first ch to form a ring, being careful not


to twist.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, (sc, hdc, sc) in same ch as
join, place marker (pm) in hdc, sc in next
2 ch, (sc, hdc) in next ch, ch 12, drop lp
from hook, insert hook through marked
hdc, pick up dropped lp and pull through
st, working in ch-12, sk first ch, [sc in next
2 ch, (sc, hdc, sc) in next ch] 3 times, sc in
last 2 ch, sl st in hdc at base of ch 12, sc in
same ch as hdc, [sc in next 2 ch, (sc, hdc,
sc) in next ch] 4 times, sc in last 2 ch, sl st
in first sc to join47 sts.

For caffeine only:


Rnd 2: St st in next 15 sts, work methyl
group (see Stitch Guide), sl st in next 4
sts, ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in
next 4 ch, sl st in next 5 sts, work carbonyl
group (see Stitch Guide), sl st in next 5 sts,
work methyl group, sl st in next 5 sts, work
carbonyl group, sl st in next 5 sts, work
methyl group, sl st in last 3 sts, sl st in first
sc of Rnd 1 to join. Fasten off.

For chocolate only:


Rnd 2: Sl st in next 15 sts, work methyl
group (see Stitch Guide), sl st in next 4

Lizbeth Thread Size 20

Getting Started
Finished Size About 134" at widest point.
Yarn Lizbeth Thread Size 20 (distributed
by Handy Hands) (100% Egyptian cotton;
210 yd [191 m]/ oz [25 g];
): #692
mocha brown dark, #691 mocha brown
med, one ball each.
Hook Size 4 (1.25 mm) steel hook. Adjust
hook size if necessary to obtain correct
gauge.
Notions 1 st marker (m); yarn needle;
2 fish hook earring findings; two 6 mm

Chocolate

Caffeine

Stitch Key
= slip stitch
(sl st)

= single crochet
(sc)

= chain (ch)

= half double
crochet (hdc)

Caffeine

<2
<1

Chocolate

<2
<1

Insert eye pin


through this
tendril

26 Crochetscene

2015

Insert eye pin


through this
tendril

sts, ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and


in next 4 ch, sl st in next 5 sts, work
carbonyl group (see Stitch Guide), sl st
in next 10 sts, work carbonyl group, sl st
in next 5 sts, work methyl group, sl st in
last 3 sts, sl st in first sc of Rnd 1 to join.
Fasten off.

through ch-5 ring on earring, then twist to


close.
Rep for 2nd earring.

Notions Size 35 (19 mm) knitting needle or


other 34" diameter tool for broomstick
technique (for smaller sizes a 12" needle
length will be sufficient; for larger sizes 2
needles or a circular needle will be
needed); pins; yarn needle; sewing
needle; sewing or embroidery thread in
similar color to MC for seaming.
Gauge 12 sts and 13 rows = 4" in sc blo
with larger hook.

All sizes:

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block as desired.

Assembly:
Note: If you prefer to skip the beadworking
steps, you can simply twist open the loop
on the fish hook finding, insert it through
the ch-5 loop, then close the loop on the
earring. Adding the bead gives the earrings more movement.
If using headpins, nip the head off with
wire cutters. Make a simple loop: Using
the round-nose pliers, grasp one end of
the wire. Holding on to the wire with one
hand, gently turn the pliers until the wire
end and wire body touch. Create a 90
reverse bend where they meet. Slide the
bead onto the pin. Make another simple
loop at the other end. Using chain-nose
pliers, open one loop by grasping it and
turning it sideways. Slip this loop onto the
loop on the fish hook finding, then twist
to close. Open the other loop and slip

Notes
Body of vest is worked side-to-side in one
piece, beg with left front and ending with
right front.
Edging is not shown on schematic
and adds about 112" to finished bust
measurement.

Stitch Guide
Picot: Ch 2, sl st in last sc worked.

CROSSED ARROW
VEST

Pattern
VEST
Left front:

Jennifer Raymond

With larger hook and MC, ch 47 (47, 49, 51,


51, 53).
Row 1: (WS) Working in bottom ridge lp
of ch, work 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc
across, turn47 (47, 49, 51, 51, 53) sc.
Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc blo to last st, 2 sc blo
in last st, turn48 (48, 50, 52, 52, 54) sc.
Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc blo in first sc, sc blo
across, turn49 (49, 51, 53, 53, 55) sc.
Rows 424 (24, 24, 26, 26, 26): Rep
Rows 2370 (70, 72, 76, 76, 78) sc.

4
Plymouth Yarn Encore Chunky

Getting Started
Finished Size 3512 (3712, 3912, 4212, 4412,

Jump rings connect holes and loops.


Open a jump ring by grasping each
side of its opening with a pair of
pliers; dont pull apart. Instead, twist
in opposite directions so that you can
open and close without distorting the
shape.

4612)" bust circumference. Garment


shown measures 3512", modeled with 4
ease.
Yarn Plymouth Yarn Encore Chunky (75%
acrylic, 25% wool; 143 yd [131 m]/3 oz
[100 g];
): #0149 grey (MC), 5 (6, 6, 7, 7,
8) skeins; #0355 purple (CC), 1 skein.
Hook Sizes I/9 (5.5 mm) and J/10 (6 mm).
Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain
correct gauge.

Left shoulder:
Rows 15 (7, 9, 9, 11, 13): Ch 1, sc blo
across, turn.

Shape left armhole:


Next row: (RS) Ch 1, sc blo in first 46 (46,
48, 50, 50, 52) sts, ch 25 (25, 25, 27, 27, 27),
turn, leaving rem sts unworked.

134 (214, 3, 3, 334, 414)"


4.5 (5.5, 7.5, 7.5, 9.5, 11) cm

To form a simple loop, use flat-nose


pliers to make a 90 bend at least 12"
from the end of the wire. Use
round-nose pliers to grasp the wire
after the bend; roll the pliers toward
the bend, but not past it, to preserve
the 90 bend. Use your thumb to
continue the wrap around the nose of
the pliers. Trim the wire next to the
bend. Open a simple loop just as you
would a jump ring.

1512 (1512,
16, 1612,
1612, 1712)"
39.5 (39.5, 8 (8, 8, 812, 812, 812)"
40.5, 42, 42, 20.5 (20.5, 20.5, 21.5,
44.5) cm
21.5, 21.5) cm

712 (712, 712, 8, 8, 8)"


19 (19, 19, 20.5, 20.5, 20.5) cm

3 (3, 3, 334, 334, 334)"


7.5 (7.5, 7.5, 9.5, 9.5, 9.5) cm
912 (10, 11, 1112, 12, 13)"
24 (25.5, 28, 29, 30.5, 33) cm

LEFT
FRONT

BACK

914 (934, 1012, 11, 1134, 1214)"


23.5 (25, 26.5, 28, 30, 31) cm

RIGHT
FRONT

914 (934, 1012, 11,


1134, 1214)"
23.5 (25, 26.5, 28,
30, 31) cm

1512 (16, 17, 19, 1912, 2012)"


39.5 (40.5, 43, 48.5, 49.5, 52) cm

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Geek

Back:
Row 1: (WS) Working in bottom ridge lp of
ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch
across, sc blo in next 46 (46, 48, 50, 50, 52)
sc, turn70 (70, 72, 76, 76, 78) sc.
Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc blo across, turn.
Rows 350 (52, 56, 62, 64, 66): Rep
Row 2. Fasten off.

Shape right armhole:


Row 1: (WS) Ch 24 (24, 24, 26, 26, 26), sk
first 24 (24, 24, 26, 26, 26) sc, sc blo in next
sc and in each st across, turn46 (46, 48,
50, 50, 52) sc.
Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc blo across, working
in bottom ridge lp of ch, sc in each ch
across, turn70 (70, 72, 76, 76, 78) sc.
Rows 36 (8, 10, 10, 12, 14): Ch 1, sc
blo across, turn.

Shape right neck:


Row 1: (WS) Ch 1, sc2tog (see Glossary), sc
blo across, turn69 (69, 71, 75, 75, 77) sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc blo to last 2 sts, sc2tog,
turn68 (68, 70, 74, 74, 76) sc.
Rows 324 (24, 24, 26, 26, 26): Rep
Rows 1246 (46, 48, 50, 50, 52) sc. Fasten
off.

edge, yo and pull up lp.


Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in first 45 (45, 47,
49, 49, 51) sc, 4 sc in next sc, change to
smaller hook, work 1 sc in each row-end
along right-front neck, back neck and leftfront neck, change to larger hook, working
in foundation ch of left front, 4 sc in first st,
sc in next 45 (45, 47, 49, 49, 51) sts, do not
turn176 (178, 186, 196, 198, 204) sc.
Row 2: (RS) Working left to right, sl last
lp on hook onto knitting needle, sk first
sc, * pull up lp in blo of next sc, sl lp
onto needle; rep from * across, do not
turn176 (178, 186, 196, 198, 204) lps.
Row 3: (RS) Draw yarn up to top of needle,
making sure not to pull tight, working right
to left, insert hook under first 4 (4, 3, 4, 3,
3) lps, draw yarn through lps, ch 1, (2 sc,
picot [see Stitch Guide], 2 sc) in same lps,
* (2 sc, picot, 2 sc) in next 3 lps; rep from *
to last 4 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) lps, (2 sc, picot, 2 sc)
in last 4 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) lps58 (59, 62, 65,
66, 68) groups. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block broomstick lace.

Notions Yarn needle; two 34" buttons (1 for


RS, 1 for WS of skirt); one 12" button (for WS
of skirt); thread to match buttons or MC.
Gauge 1812 sts and 23 rows = 4" in sc blo.
Swatch will change when wet. Be sure to
block.

Notes
To create wedges, CC is worked in
short-rows, which creates a step that
can leave a hole. This hole is closed by
working in the top of one st and the bottom of another st (see rsc2tog in Stitch
Guide). Each time a step is encountered,
rsc2tog should be worked.

Stitch Guide
Row single crochet two together
(rsc2tog): Insert hook in blo of last sc
of previous short-row, yo and pull up lp,
insert hook in blo of sc 2 rows below, yo
and pull up lp, yo and draw through 3 lps
on hook. Note: This does not dec a st. It
closes the gap created by short-rows.

Pattern
SKIRT
Beg MC section:
With large hook and MC, ch 83 loosely.
Row 1: (RS) Working in bottom ridge lp, sc

RIVERBEND SKIRT
Jennifer Raymond

FINISHING
Sew shoulder seams:
Shoulder seams are eased into place.
Match 5 (7, 9, 9, 11, 13) rows of left front
shoulder to first 10 (10, 10, 12, 12, 12)
rows of back and pin in place. With sewing
needle and thread, sew shoulder seams
using mattress stitch (see Glossary). Rep
for right shoulder.
Note: It is helpful to sew through the bulky
yarn instead of through sts themselves.

Edging:
Note: All sc in edging are worked through
both lps; RS is always facing for broomstick edging.
With RS facing, larger hook and CC, insert
hook in first st at bottom of right front
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4
Misti Alpaca Tonos Pima Silk

Getting Started
Finished Size 24 (26, 28, 30, 34, 38, 42)" waist
circumference and 17" long. Sample shown
measures 24", modeled with 1" negative
ease.
Yarn Misti Alpaca Tonos Pima Silk (83%
pima cotton, 17% silk; 327 yd [300 m]/3
oz [100 g];
): #TPS37 chirimoya (MC), 3
(3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5) hanks; #TPS100 natural
cream (CC), 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) hanks.
Hook Size I/9 (5.5 mm) and G/6 (4 mm).
Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain
correct gauge.

in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across,


turn82 sc.
Row 2: (WS) Ch 1, sc blo in each st across,
turn.
Rep Row 2 thirty-two (thirty-six, thirty-two,
thirty-four, thirty-four, thirty-eight, thirtyeight) times. Fasten off (ended at bottom
edge of skirt).

CC wedge:
Row 1: (RS) Join CC in blo where MC
fastened off, ch 1, sc blo in next 70 sts,
turn70 sts.
Row 2: (WS) Ch 1, sc blo across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc blo in next 10 sts,
turn10 sts.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc blo in next 9 sts, rsc2tog
(see Stitch Guide), sc blo in next 10 sts,
turn20 sts.
Row 6: Rep Row 2.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc blo in next 19 sts, rsc2tog,
sc blo in next 10 sts, turn30 sts.
Row 8: Rep Row 2.
Row 9: Ch 1, sc blo in next 29 sts, rsc2tog,

sc blo in next 10 sts, turn40 sts.


Row 10: Rep Row 2.
Row 11: Ch 1, sc blo in next 39 sts,
rsc2tog, sc blo in next 10 sts, turn50 sts.
Row 12: Rep Row 2.
Row 13: Ch 1, sc blo in next 49 sts,
rsc2tog, sc blo in next 10 sts, turn60 sts.
Row 14: Rep Row 2.
Row 15: Ch 1, sc blo in next 50 sts, turn.
Row 16: Rep Row 2.
Row 17: Ch 1, sc blo in next 40 sts, turn.
Row 18: Rep Row 2.
Row 19: Ch 1, sc blo in next 30 sts, turn.
Row 20: Rep Row 2.
Row 21: Ch 1, sc blo in next 20 sts, turn.
Row 22: Rep Row 2.
Row 23: Ch 1, sc blo in next 10 sts, turn.
Row 24: Rep Row 2.
Row 25: Ch 1, [sc blo in next 9 sts,
rsc2tog] 6 times, sc blo in next 10 sts,
turn70 sts.
Row 26: Rep Row 2. Fasten off (ended at
bottom edge).

MC section:

Row 1: (RS) Join MC where CC fastened


off, ch 1, sc blo in next 70 CC sts, sc blo in
next 12 sts of MC section, turn82 sts.
Row 2: (WS) Ch 1, sc blo in each st across,
turn.
Rep Row 2 thirty-two (thirty-six, thirty-two,
thirty-four, thirty-four, thirty-eight, thirtyeight) times. Fasten off.

Body:
Rep CC wedge and MC section 3 [3, 4, 4, 5,
5, 6] times4 [4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] wedges.

Curved wedge:
Row 1: (RS) Join CC where MC was
fastened off, ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog
(see Glossary) blo, sc blo in next 67 sts,
turn69 sts.
Row 2: (WS) Ch 1, sc blo in each st across,
turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo,
sc blo in next 6 sts, turn8 sts.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo,
sc blo in next 15 sts, turn17 sts.
Row 6: Rep Row 2.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo,
sc blo in next 24 sts, turn26 sts.
Row 8: Rep Row 2.
Row 9: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo,
sc blo in next 33 sts, turn35 sts.
Row 10: Rep Row 2.
Row 11: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo,
sc blo in next 42 sts, turn44 sts.
Row 12: Rep Row 2.
Row 13: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo,
sc blo in next 71 sts, turn73 sts.
Row 14: Rep Row 2.
Row 15: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo,
sc blo in next 40 sts, turn42 sts.
Row 16: Rep Row 2.
Row 17: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo,
sc blo in next 29 sts turn31 sts.
Row 18: Rep Row 2.
Row 19: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo,
sc blo in next 18 sts, turn20 sts.
Row 20: Rep Row 2.
Row 21: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo,
sc blo in next 7 sts, turn9 sts.
Row 22: Rep Row 2.
Row 23: Ch 1, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo,
sc blo in next 56 sts, turn58 sts.
Row 24: Rep Row 2. Fasten off.

Curved MC section:
36 (39, 42, 45, 51, 57, 63)
91.5 (99, 106.5, 114.5, 129.5, 145, 160) cm

17
(43 cm)

SKIRT

Row 1 (dec): (RS) Join MC where CC was


fastened off, ch 1, sc blo in first st, sc2tog
blo, sc blo in each st across, turn1 dec.
Row 2 (dec): (WS) Ch 1, sc blo across
until 3 sts rem, sc2tog blo, sc blo in last st,
turn1 dec.
Rep Rows 12 sixteen (eighteen, sixteen,
seventeen, seventeen, nineteen, nineteen)
times. Fasten off.

Waistband:
5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8) wedges

Note: All sts are worked through both lps.


With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in first

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row at top-right edge, ch 1.


Row 1: Sc in same st as ch, sc in next
row-end, sc2tog over next 2 row-ends,
*sc in next 2 row-ends, sc2tog over next
2 row-ends; rep from * across, turn153
(171, 177, 189, 216, 240, 270) sts.
Row 2: (WS) Ch 1, sc in first st, sc2tog 0
(1, 0, 0, 0, 0, 1) time, 2 sc in next st 0 (0, 0,
0, 1, 1, 0) time, sc across until 2 sts rem,
sc2tog 0 (1, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0) time, sc to end (if
needed), turn153 (170, 177, 189, 217,
241, 269) sts.
Row 3: (RS) Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sk next
2 sts, ch 1; rep from * 37 (41, 43, 46, 53, 59,
66) times, 2 sc in last st, turn.
Rows 45: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp
across, turn. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Attach 34" button to RS and
12" button to WS of waistband, sandwiching the waistband fabric between them, at
straight edge end of skirt. Attach 2nd 34"
button to WS of waistband at curved edge
end of skirt. Skirt is worn with 30-50%
overlap. Insert buttons in holes created on
Row 3 of waistband. Block by wetting and
hanging from waistband.

); #620-501white frost (F), 1 skein.


Hook Size H/8 (5 mm). Adjust hook size if
necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions St markers (m); yarn needle; pins.
Gauge 17 sts and 18 rows = 4" in tapestry
st, worked flat.

Notes
Bag body is worked in flat tapestry crochet
over a strand of yarn, even when working
rows without color changes. This strengthens the bag and keeps it from stretching out.
It also maintains the same gauge throughout the bag. It is important to achieve a fairly
tight gauge to create a sturdy bag.
To work over a strand of yarn, carry the
unused color along the top edge of the sts
from previous row. Crochet around the
unused yarn, encasing it within the sts.
Make sure that the carried yarn does not
constrict the sts. Every few sts after a
color change, pull on the end of the carried yarn so that its not too loose, then
pull on the fabric so that its not too tight.
Always change to new color on the last
yo of the last st before color change.
Bag bottom is worked in rnds over 2nd
strand of yarn in same color as working
yarn.

changing contrast color for each chart rep


to [B, F, C, D, A] 2 times, then B, F, C14
rows of circles, 5 circles each row. Fasten
off, leaving a long tail to seam body.

BOTTOM

Note: Always work over a 2nd strand of


yarn in same color as working yarn. Break
contrast color when finished but do not
break E; instead pull it up on WS to next
spot where needed.
Rnd 1: With B, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from
hook, sl st in first sc to join6 sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc (see Stitch Guide) in
each st around, with E, sl st in first sc to
join12 sc.
Rnd 3: With E, ch 1, [sc in next st, inc in next
st] around, sl st in first sc to join18 sc.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, [sc in next 2 sts, inc in
next st] around, with A, sl st in first sc to
join24 sc.
Rnd 5: With A, ch 1, [sc in next 3 sts, inc in
next st] around, sl st in first sc to join30 sc.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, [sc in next 4 sts, inc in
next st] around, with E, sl st in first sc to
join36 sc.

Stitch Guide
Single crochet in reverse (scr): Worked
on WS rows only. Insert hook from back to
front under top 2 lps in indicated st, yo and
pull up lp, yo and draw through both lps
on hook.
Increase (inc): 2 sc in indicated st1 st
incd.

Pattern
BODY

CYBORG BAG
Daniela Nii

4
Lion Brand Wool-Ease

Getting Started
Finished Size 1512" tall and 1212" in diameter;
strap: about 40" long and 212" wide.
Yarn Lion Brand Wool-Ease (80% acrylic,
20% wool; 197 yd [180 m]/3 oz [85 g];
):
#620-151 grey heather (MC), 2 skeins;
#620-159 mustard (A), #620-107 blue
heather (B), #620-199 pumpkin (C),
#620-188 paprika (D), #620-152 oxford
grey (E), 1 skein each.
Lion Brand Wool-Ease (70% acrylic, 20%
wool, 10% nylon; 162 yd [146 m]/2 oz [70 g];

30 Crochetscene

2015

Note: Use strand from 2nd ball of yarn to


work over.
Tip: Mark RS with a removable marker for
easier identification.
With MC, ch 59.
Row 1: (RS) Working over 2nd strand of
MC, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch
across, turn58 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, scr (see Stitch Guide) in each
st across, turn, drop 2nd strand of MC.
Row 3 (corresponds to Circle chart
Row 3): Ch 1, working over A, with MC,
sc in first 2 sts, [with MC, sc in next 3
sts, changing to A in last st (see Notes),
working over MC, with A, sc in next 4 sts,
changing to MC in last st, working over A,
with MC, sc in next 4 sts] 5 times, with MC,
sc in last st, turn.
Row 4 (corresponds to Circle chart
Row 4): Ch 1, with MC, scr in first st, work
11-st patt rep of Row 4 of chart 5 times
across, with MC, scr in last 2 sts, turn.
Cont in patt as est through chart Row 12,
then rep chart Rows 112 thirteen times

Stitch Key
= with MC, single crochet (sc)
= with MC, single crochet
in reverse (scr)
= with CC, single crochet (sc)
= with CC, single crochet
in reverse (scr)
= patt repeat

Circle Chart
12>
<11
10>
<9
8>
<7
6>
<5
4>
<3
2>
<1

11-st patt rep

Rnd 7: With E, ch 1, [sc in next 5 sts, inc in


next st] around, sl st in first sc to join42 sc.
Rnd 8: Ch 1, [sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st]
around, with D, sl st in first sc to join48 sc.
Rnd 9: With D, ch 1, [sc in next 7 sts, inc in
next st] around, sl st in first sc to join54 sc.
Rnd 10: Ch 1, [sc in next 8 sts, inc in next st]
around, with E, sl st in first sc to join60 sc.
Rnd 11: With E, ch 1, [sc in next 9 sts, inc in
next st] around, sl st in first sc to join66 sc.
Rnd 12: Ch 1, [sc in next 10 sts, inc in next st]
around, with C, sl st in first sc to join72 sc.
Rnd 13: With C, ch 1, [sc in next 11 sts, inc in
next st] around, sl st in first sc to join78 sc.
Rnd 14: Ch 1, [sc in next 12 sts, inc in next st]
around, with E, sl st in first sc to join84 sc.
Rnd 15: With E, ch 1, [sc in next 13 sts, inc in
next st] around, sl st in first sc to join90 sc.
Rnd 16: Ch 1, [sc in next 14 sts, inc in next st]
around, with F, sl st in first sc to join96 sc.
Rnd 17: With F, ch 1, [sc in next 15 sts, inc in
next st] around, sl st in first sc to join102 sc.
Rnd 18: Ch 1, [sc in next 16 sts, inc in next st]
around, with E, sl st in first sc to join108 sc.
Rnd 19: With E, ch 1, [sc in next 17 sts, inc in
next st] around, sl st in first sc to join114 sc.
Rnd 20: Ch 1, [sc in next 18 sts, inc in next st]
around, with B, sl st in first sc to join120 sc.
Rnd 21: With B, ch 1, [sc in next 19 sts, inc in
next st] around, sl st in first sc to join126 sc.
Rnd 22: Ch 1, [sc in next 20 sts, inc in next st]
around, with E, sl st in first sc to join132 sc.

Rnd 23: With E, ch 1, [sc in next 21 sts, inc in


next st] around, sl st in first sc to join138 sc.
Rnd 24: Ch 1, [sc in next 22 sts, inc in next st]
around, with A, sl st in first sc to join144 sc.
Rnd 25: With A, ch 1, [sc in next 23 sts, inc in
next st] around, sl st in first sc to join150 sc.
Rnd 26: Ch 1, [sc in next 24 sts, inc in next st]
around, with E, sl st in first sc to join156 sc.
Rnd 27: With E, ch 1, [sc in next 25 sts, inc in
next st] around, sl st in first sc to join162 sc.
Rnd 28: Ch 1, [sc in next 26 sts, inc in next
st] around, sl st in first sc to join168 sts.
Fasten off.

STRAP

Note: Do not break MC, instead carry it up


along side of work for next use.
With MC, ch 171.
Row 1: (RS) Working in back bump of beg
ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch
across, do not turn170 sts.
Row 2: (RS) Join A, ch 1, sc blo in each st
across, turn, break A.
Row 3: (WS) With MC, ch 1, scr flo in each
st across, do not turn.
Row 4: (WS) Join B, ch 1, scr flo in each st
across, turn, break B.
Row 5: (RS) With MC, ch 1, sc blo in each
st across, do not turn.
Row 6: (RS): With F, rep Row 2.
Row 7: Rep Row 3.
Row 8: With C, rep Row 4.
Row 9: Rep Row 5.

Row 10: With D, rep Row 2.


Row 11: Rep Row 3. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Using mattress st (see Glossary), seam
first and last row of body to form a tube.

Bag rim:
Work rim around top tube edge opposite of
where all tail ends are.
Rnd 1: With RS of body facing, join MC
in first sc row-end after seam, sc in each
row-end around, with E, sl st in first sc to
join168 sc.
Rnd 2: With E, ch 1, sc blo around, sl st in
first sc to join.
Rnd 3 (dec rnd): Ch 1, [sc blo in next 19
sts, sc2tog (see Glossary) blo] around, sl st
in first sc to join160 sc rem.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join.
Rnd 5: Rep Rnd 2.
Rnd 6 (eyelet rnd): Ch 1, sc in first 6 sts,
ch 2, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts, ch 2, sk
next 2 sts, [sc in next 8 sts, ch 2, sk next
2 sts] 12 times, sc in next 8 sts, [ch 2, sk
next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts] 2 times, sl st in
first sc to join16 ch-2 sps.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc blo in each st and ch
around, sl st in first sc to join160 sc.
Rnd 8 (dec rnd): Ch 1, [sc in next 14 sts,
sc2tog] around, sl st in first sc to join150
sc rem.
Rnd 9: Rep Rnd 2.
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to
join. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends.

Assembly:
Rnd 1: With RS of body facing, bottom edge
of tube at top, join MC in first sc row-end after
seam, sc in each row-end around, sl st in first
st to join, do not break yarn168 sts.
Center strap on tube seam and mark first
st left and right of strap on tube edge,
remove strap.
Rnd 2 (joining rnd): Sl st to marked st
(first half of strap slit), hold bottom behind
body with WS tog and working through
both pieces, sl st seam bag bottom to bag
tube, work a sl st in each st around to

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next marked st, sl st along tube edge only


to end (2nd half of strap slit). Fasten off,
leaving a long tail to sew strap to bag.
Insert 2-3" of strap end in slit so that RS
is facing when strap is folded up to top
of bag. Use yarn tails to sew strap end to
WS of bag. Fold strap up and over bag top,
overlapping by 2-3", center WS of strap on
tube seam, pin strap to inside of bag top.
Try out strap length, adjust if needed. Sew
and secure strap to WS of bag.
Tie: With E, fsc (see Glossary) 200, rotate
piece to work back along opposite edge, ch
1, sc in first st, ch 1, sc in each st across.
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Weave tie
through bag rim holes so that ends come
out at center front of bag.

Notes
Rectangle motifs are worked first, then
joined tog with bobble strips. All Rectangle Motif centers are worked with color
A. No seaming required.
Larger hook is only used for tassels.
To change color in motif: Sl st to join
with current color, then yo with new color
and pull up lp, pull current color strand
hard to minimize size of st.
To change color in bobble strip: Work
to last yo to complete last st, yo with new
color and complete st.

next 2 sts, (dc, ch 1, tr) in next ch-1 corner


sp, htr in next 2 sts, dc in next 8 sts, *dc in
next 8 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, (dc, ch 1, tr) in
next ch-1 corner sp, htr in next 2 sts, dc in
next 8 sts; rep from * 2 times, sl st in first
sc to join88 sts, 4 ch-1 corner sps.
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc blo in first and next 10 sts,
*sc blo in ch of next ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc blo in
next st and each st to next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sc
blo in ch of next ch-1 sp**, sc blo in next
st and each st to next ch-1 sp, rep from *
to **, sc blo in last 12 sts, sl st in first sc
to join24 sc each long side, 22 dc each
narrow side.

Stitch Guide
Single crochet join (sc-join): Insert hook
in indicated st of current rectangle, yo and
pull up a lp, insert hook from top down in
indicated st of adjacent rectangle, yo, pull up
lp and draw through 2 lps1 lp rem on hook.
Five treble bobble (bobble): (Yo 2
times, insert hook in indicated st, yo and
pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on
hook] 2 times) 5 times (6 lps on hook), yo
and draw through all lps on hook5-tr
bobble competed.
Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yo 2 times,
insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up
lp (4 lps on hook), yo and draw through 2
lps (3 lps on hook), yo and draw through
rem lps on hook.

Rectangle Motif:

CYBORG SCARF
Daniela Nii

4
Lion Brand Wool-Ease

Getting Started
Finished SizeAbout 612" wide and 78"
long, excluding tassels.

Yarn Lion Brand Wool-Ease (80% acrylic,


20% wool; 197 yd [180 m]/3 oz [85 g];
):
#620-107 blue heather (A), #620-151 grey
heather (B), #620-152 oxford grey (C),
#620-159 mustard (D), #620-199 pumpkin
(E), #620-102 ranch red (F), #620153black (G), 1 skein each.
Lion Brand Wool-Ease (70% acrylic, 20%
wool, 10% nylon; 162 yd [146 m]/21/2 oz
[70 g];
); #620-501white frost (H), 1
skein.
Hook Sizes H/8 (5 mm) and J/10 (6 mm)
(only used for tassels). Adjust hook size if
necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions St marker (m); yarn needle.
Gauge Is not crucial for this project.
Rectangle motif measures about 612"
wide and 934" long with smaller hook.

32 Crochetscene

2015

With A and smaller hook, ch 5, sl st in first


ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 15
dc in ring, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join,
changing to Color 1 (see Notes)16 dc.
Fasten off A.
Rnd 2: With Color 1, ch 4 (counts as dc, ch
1), [dc blo in next st, ch 1] around, sl st in 3rd
ch of beg ch-4 to join16 dc, 16 ch-1 sps.
Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next ch-1
sp, [2 dc in next st, dc in next ch-1 sp] around,
sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join48 dc.
Rnd 4: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), sk
next st, [dc blo in next st, ch 2, sk next
st] around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to
join24 dc, 24 ch-2 sps.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in next
ch-2 sp, [ sc in next st, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp]
around, sl st in first sc to join, changing to
Color 272 sc. Fasten off Color 1.

Beg rectangle shaping:


Rnd 6: With Color 2, ch 1, sc in first and
next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2
sts, (htr, tr) in next st, ch 1 (for corner), (tr,
htr) in next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next
2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, *sc in next 4 sts, hdc
in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, (htr, tr) in
next st, ch 1 (for corner), (tr, htr) in next st,
dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next
4 sts; rep from * 2 times, sl st in first sc to
join80 sts, 4 ch-1 corner sps.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in first and next 7 sts, hdc in

Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in first and each st to next


ch-3 sp, *sc blo in next 2 ch, ch 3, dc blo in
last ch, dc in each st to next ch-3 sp, dc blo
in first ch, ch 3, sc blo in last 2 ch**, sc in
each st to next ch-3 sp, rep from * to **, sc
in each st to end, sl st in first sc to join32
sc each long side, 24 dc each narrow side.
Rnd 10: Rep Rnd 9 but work all sc and dc
in blo40 sc each long side, 26 dc each
narrow side.
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sl st in first and each st to
next ch-3 sp, *sl st blo in next 2 ch, ch 3,
dc blo in last ch, dc in each st to next ch-3
sp, dc blo in first ch, ch 3, sl st blo in last
2 ch**, sl st in each st to next ch-3 sp, rep
from * to **, sl st in each st to end, sl st in
first sl st to join48 sl sts each long side,
26 dc each narrow side. Fasten off.

Pattern
SCARF
Rectangle 1: Make rectangle motif (see
Stitch Guide) using G for Color 1, A for
Color 2.
Rectangle 2: Make rectangle motif using

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33

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B for Color 1, D for Color 2.


Rectangle 3: Make rectangle motif using
C for Color 1, G for Color 2.
Rectangle 4: Make rectangle motif using
G for Color 1, H for Color 2.
Rectangle 5: Make rectangle motif using
B for Color 1, E for Color 2.
Rectangle 6: Make rectangle motif using
C for Color 1, F for Color 2.

Bobble strip:
Row 1: With RS facing, join C in top ch
of right corner ch-3 of Rectangle 1, ch 3,
dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc in each st across
to left corner ch-3, dc in top of ch-3,
turn27 dc.
Row 2 (bobbles): (WS) Ch 3, dc in next 2
sts, [bobble (see Stitch Guide) in next st, dc
in next 3 sts] 6 times, turn.
Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next and in each st
across, changing to G in last st (see
Notes), turn.
Row 4 (bobbles): With G, ch 3, working
over C laying on top of sts, dc in next 4 sts,
[bobble in next st, dc in next 3 sts] 5 times,
dc in last 2 sts, changing to C in last st,
turn. Fasten off G.
Row 5: With C, ch 3, dc in next and in each
st across, turn.
Row 6 (bobbles): Rep Row 2.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc across, turn.

FINISHING
Tassel: Cut a 10" long strand of each color
and bundle them. With RS facing, insert
larger hook in right corner, fold strand
bundle in half and place center over hook,
pull bundle up through fabric to form a lp,
remove hook, reach through lp to pull the
two bundle ends through lp, gently pull on
tails to tighten tassel. Place 4 more tassels
evenly spaced across scarf end, placing
next tassel in opposite corner, then in
the center, then one tassel between each
corner and center tassel. Trim tassels to
same length. Weave in ends.

With WS facing, match up narrow edge of


Rectangle 2 with bobble strip edge.
Row 8 (joining row): (WS) Ch 1, sc-join
(see Stitch Guide) first st of current rectangle with st in ch-3 sp of adjacent rectangle,
[sc-join next st] across to end of current
rectangle (1 st rem on adjacent rectangle),
sc-join last st of current rectangle with
last st of adjacent rectangle (insert hook in
ch-3 sp), fasten off.
Rep Rows 18 to join rem Rectangles 3, 4,
5, and 6.

OODLES SCARF

Scarf ends:

Yarn Lornas Laces Shepherd Sock (80%

Work Rows 17 of bobble strip at each


scarf end (Rectangle 1 and Rectangle 6),
then work Row 7 once more, fasten off.

superwash wool, 20% nylon; 435 yd [100 g];


): #12 lilac, 1 skein.
Hook Sizes G/6 (4 mm) and F/5 (3.75 mm).
Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain
correct gauge.
Notions St marker (m); yarn needle.
Gauge 20 sts and 16 rows = 4" in patt on
larger hook (blocked).

Sue Perez

4
Lornas Laces Shepherd Sock

Getting Started
Finished Size 412" wide and 60" long,
blocked (excluding tendrils).

Notes
Tendrils are formed by chaining at end
of each RS row, then turning and working
in flo of ch in opposite direction; be careful to correctly identify front lps of ch sts.
Dc lace rows beg with a blo sl st which
can sink into work; place marker if necessary to help identify it for return row.
Final sl st of dc lace row is made through
both strands.
When working wormhole keep tension
very firm; hole should be very small to
2015

Stitch Guide
Main body st patt (odd number of
sts + any number for tendril):
With larger hook, loosely ch 25, place
marker (pm), ch 12 for tendril, turn.
Row 1: 2 dc flo in 3rd ch from hook, sc
flo in next 9 ch to m (tendril formed), sc in
bottom ridge lp of each ch to end, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st blo in first st (mark this
st if desired), sc blo in next st, dc blo in
next st, [ch 1, sk next st, dc blo in next st]
10 times, sc blo in next st, sl st in next st,
ch 15 for tendril, turn.
Row 3: 2 dc flo in 3rd ch from hook, sc flo
to end, turn.
Row 4: Rep Row 2, ch 18 for tendril.
Row 5: Rep Row 3.
Rep Rows 23 for patt, changing tendril
length as desired.

Join rectangles:

34 Crochetscene

keep tendrils from slipping out.


St patt acts like ribbing and can retract
slightly during blocking; since this yarn
contains nylon, wet-block scarf to slightly
larger dimensions than desired finished
size. To refresh or enhance tendril curl,
wrap tendrils one at a time, with WS
(nubby side) facing outwards, around
crochet hook or drinking straw; spritz
or steam very lightly on uppermost side,
pull out hook or straw, and let dry.

Pattern
With larger hook, loosely ch 303, pm, ch 38
for tendril, turn.
Row 1: (WS) 2 dc flo in 3rd ch from hook, sc
flo in next 35 ch to m (tendril formed), sc in
bottom ridge lp of each ch to end, turn.
Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sl st blo in first st (mark
this st if desired), sc blo in next st, dc blo in
next st, [ch 1, sk next st, dc blo in next st]
149 times, sc blo in next st, sl st blo in next
st, ch 48 for tendril, turn.
Row 3: 2 dc flo in 3rd ch from hook, sc flo
to end, turn.
Row 4: Rep Row 2, ch 58 for tendril.
Row 5: Rep Row 3.
Row 6: Rep Row 2, ch 38 for tendril.
Row 7: Rep Row 3.
Rows 819: Rep Rows 27 two times. Do
not turn at end of Row 19.

Make wormhole:

Stitch Guide

With smaller hook, ch 1, rotate work 90


degrees counterclockwise; inserting hook
in sc rowends and working across narrow
end of scarf, sc2tog (see Glossary) 5 times,
turn; ch 5, sl st in ch-1 at beg of wormhole
to join, turn; [sc in next sc2tog, ch 3] 5
times (being careful not to catch hook in
ch-5) turn; working now across ch-5, [sc in
ch-sp, ch 3] 5 times; sl st in beg sc to join.
Fasten off.

Double Crochet Cluster (cl): [Yo, insert


hook in st indicated, yo and pull up lp, yo
and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times (3
lps on hook), yo and draw through all lps
on hook.
Invisible Fasten Off: Cut yarn leaving a
3" tail, draw tail through lp on hook, insert
hook in both lps of next st, yo and draw
through all lps on hook, insert hook in flo
of last st, yo, draw through all lps on hook.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block scarf body only;
tendrils may be left unblocked or lightly
shaped (see Notes). To wear, gently thread
tendrils through wormhole a few at a time
until all are threaded; arrange as desired.

[ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc] across,


turn10 ch-sps.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout),
2 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next dc, ch 5, sk
next ch-sp, next dc and next ch-sp, dc in
next dc, [2 dc in next ch-sp, dc in next dc] 4
times, ch 5, sk next ch-sp, next dc and next
ch-sp, dc in next dc, 2 dc in last ch-sp, dc
in last dc, turn21 dc and 2 ch-sps.
Row 4: Ch 5, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch
2, sk next 2 ch, dc in next ch, sk next 2 ch,
dc in next dc, [ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in next
dc] 4 times, ch 2, sk next 2 ch, dc in next
ch, sk next 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk next
2 dc, dc in last dc, turn10 ch-sps.
Rows 516: Rep Rows 3 4 six times.
Row 17: Ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-sp, dc in
next dc] across. Fasten off.

Pattern
BACK PANEL

NETWORK PURSE
Shelby Allaho

4
Schachenmayr Catania

Getting Started
Finished Size 12" wide and 734" tall,
excluding handles.
Yarn Schachenmayr Catania (distributed
by Westminster Fibers) (100% cotton; 137 yd
[125 m]/13/4 oz [50 g];
): #0249 gold (MC),
3 skeins; #0248 linen (CC), 2 skeins.
Hook Sizes D/3 (3.25 mm) and F/5 (3.75 mm).
Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain
correct gauge.
Notions Yarn needle; rust-proof pins;
sewing needle; invisible nylon thread; 134"
flat button with shank.
Gauge 1612 sts and 11 rows = 4" in main
patt with smaller hook.

Notes
Bag is worked in panels that are
seamed tog. Strap is worked separately
and attached.

Using smaller hook and MC, ch 57.


Row 1: (RS) Cl (see Stitch Guide) in bottom
ridge lp of 4th ch from hook, and in each
ch across, turn54 cl.
Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count as st), sk first
st, cl in each cl to last 2 cl, sk next cl, cl in
last cl, turn52 cl.
Rows 34: Ch 3, cl in each cl across, turn.
Row 5: Ch 3, sk first st, cl in each cl to last
2 cl, sk next cl, cl in last cl, turn50 cl.
Rows 628: Rep Rows 35 seven times,
then Rows 34 once more36 cl.
Row 29: Ch 1, sc in each cl across, turn.
Row 30: Ch 1, sc in each cl one row below
(over prev worked sc) across, turn.
Row 31: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.
Row 32: Rep Row 30. Fasten off.

FRONT PANEL
Using smaller hook and CC, ch 57.
Work as for back panel through Row
1842 cl.
Row 19: Ch 1, sc in each cl across, turn.
Row 20: Ch 1, sc in each cl one row below
(over prev worked sc) across, turn.
Row 21: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.
Row 22: Rep Row 20. Fasten off.

FRONT FILET PANEL


Using smaller hook and MC, ch 33.
Row 1: (RS) Dc in bottom ridge lp of 4th ch
from hook (skipped ch count as first dc),
and in each ch across, turn31 dc.
Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as first dc and ch-2
sp throughout), sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc,

STRAPS (MAKE 2)
Using smaller hook and MC, ch 180.
Row 1: (RS) Sc in bottom ridge lp of 2nd
ch from hook, and in each ch across,
turn179 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each ch one row below
(over prev worked sc) across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.
Rows 45: Rep Rows 23, then rep Row 2
once more, do not turn.

Edging:
Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc one row below (over
last sc worked), rotate to work across
row-ends, work 4 sc across row-ends,
rotate to work along foundation ch, sl st
in each ch across, rotate to work across
row-ends, work 4 sc across row-ends, sl st
in blo of first sc to join, invisible fasten off
(see Stitch Guide).

Detailing:
With larger hook, CC, and WS facing,
insert hook in first st bet Rows 1 and 2, yo
and pull up lp, draw through lp on hook,
keeping yarn under work, *insert hook in
next st bet rows 1 and 2, yo and pull up
lp, draw through lp on hook; rep from *
across. Fasten off.
Rep for Rows 2 and 3. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Pin all pieces to a blocking board and wet
or steam block.
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35

Geek

Front filet panel and front panel


joining:
With smaller hook, join MC in top righthand corner of front panel bet last 2 rows,
yo and pull up long lp, yo and draw through
lp on hook, sc in next 5 sts one row below,
sc over last row of front panel, sc in each
st across top edge of front filet panel and
front panel, through both thicknesses, sc
in last 6 sts, sc over last row of front panel.
Fasten off.
With smaller hook, join MC in bottom
left-hand corner, yo and pull up lp, yo and
draw through lp on hook, sc in first 11 sts,
holding front filet panel and front panel
tog, sc across panels through both thicknesses, sc in last 12 sts. Fasten off.
Thread sewing needle with a length of
invisible nylon thread. Sew sides of front
filet panel to front panel of purse.

Assembly:
With RS tog, pin front and back panels tog.
With WS facing and smaller hook, join
MC through both thicknesses in top edge
of panels, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw
through lp on hook. Cont to join panels
by making 2 sc in each row-end around
to bottom corner, sc in flo of front panel
and blo of back panel across to opposite
corner, 2 sc in each row-end around.
Fasten off.

Back panel flap edging:


With RS of back panel facing, using larger
hook and 3 strands of MC held tog, join MC
in row-end just above front and back panel
joining, yo and pull up lp, keeping yarn

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under the work, insert hook in same rowend, yo and pull up lp, draw through lp on
hook, *insert hook in next row-end, yo and
pull up lp, insert hook in same row-end,
yo and pull up lp, draw through lp on hook;
rep from * across to last row-end, rotate
to work across next edge, sl st in each st
across to next row-end, rotate to work
across next edge; rep from * across to last
row-end. Fasten off.

Button loop:
With WS of back panel facing, using
smaller hook and MC, insert hook in
eighteenth st from edge, yo and pull up lp,
ch 17, sl st in same st, turn.
Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, 23 sc in lp, sl st in first
sc to join. Fasten off.

Strap attachment:
Using photo as a guide, pin WS of strap to
RS of front panel along front filet panel edge
(edge of strap should just cover the last st of
panel). Thread sewing needle with a length
of invisible nylon thread. Sew bottom 4" of
strap to front panel on each side.
Pin WS of strap to RS of back panel,
matching the strap location on front panel.
Thread sewing needle with a length of
invisible nylon thread. Sew strap to back
panel on each side.

Button cover:
With smaller hook and CC, make an
adjustable ring (see Glossary).
Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 2 (counts as hdc throughout), 9 hdc in ring, sl st in first hdc to
join10 hdc.
Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc in same sp as join, 2 hdc

in each hdc around, sl st in first hdc to


join20 hdc. Fasten off.
Join MC with sl st in join.
Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc in same sp as join and in
each hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same sp as join and in
each hdc around, sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in same sp as join and in
each dc around, sl st in first sc to join.
Insert button into WS of cover.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in same sp as join and
in each sc around, sl st in first sc to join.
Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing.
Thread yarn needle with long end. Using
photo as a guide, come up through center
of the button cover, then go back down
through a Rnd 1 st. Cont working in this
manner in each st from Rnd 1. Sew button
to center front of purse, in the eighth row
of front filet panel.
Weave in ends.

resource guide

NaturalFibers
Spun in
Vermont

spinnery.com
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37

Feature | Yarn Play

Yarn P lay
Marcy Smith

{ Projects by Marcy Smith, Vickie Howell, and Lily Chin }

Pom-Pom
Wreath
Yarn is terrific for all sorts of crafty activities. We love
crochet, of course, but sometimes we like the immediate
gratification of speedier sorts of yarn play. To explore these
options, I teamed up with two of my favorite yarny peeps,
Vickie Howell and Lily Chin, and we whipped up some fiber
fun. We tapped in to some of todays hottest fiber trends:
weaving, macram, and pom-poms, among others.

Pom-Pom
Garland

38 Crochetscene

2015

Fun
Flowers

Wall
Hanging
Turn the page for more inspiring yarn play projects!

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39

Feature | Yarn Play

Lily Chin snapped up Clovers weaving


sticks and took them to the next level,
pairing them with a crochet hook to craft a
fabulous on-the-go bag.
Vickie Howell, who writes the Loose Ends
column in our subscription issue, dove into
a pom-pompalooza. Her exuberant pompom wreath will give instant cheer to a
door or wall, and her garland will brighten
any space. She used a Clover pom-pom
tool that makes it a snap to whip up pompoms in a range of yarns.
My super-speedy wall hanging will give
high-impact color to any blank space in
no time. Use your favorite yarns and colors to create an immediate focal point. I
tapped in to macram for this wall hanging as well as for the easy-peasy chunky
necklace. Macram conjures images of
the 1970s, but this craft actually began
in the thirteenth century. We found some
macram guidance in Weldons Practical
Needlework and turned illustrations from
the nineteenth century into designs for
the twenty-first century. (For more information on the Weldons collection, see
page 115.)
The pegboard stitchings were inspired by
signs in the windows of Fancy Tiger Crafts
in downtown Denver. I knew I had to get
some of those into my lifeand yours! You
could use this technique to stitch anything,
from your house numbers to your favorite
inspirational words. I stitched up a message for your studio and a couple of variations of the always-on-trend chevron.
We hope our yarn play sparks your creativity. Enjoy!

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WALL HANGING
Marcy Smith
Need to give a blank wall a pick-me-up in a hurry? Look no
further than this bright wall hanging. We used a dowel, but a
branch would work wonderfully, particularly if paired with rustic
yarns. Trim the yarns to whatever shape appeals to you.

Getting Started
Finished Size 1612" wide and 24" long.
Yarn Bernat Sheep(ish) by Vickie Howell (70% acrylic, 30% wool;
167 yd [158 m]/3 oz [85 g];
): #17 chartreuse (A), #11 coral
(B), #05 plum(ish) (C), 1 ball each.
Notions 18" long and 12" diameter dowel or stick; drill; 14" drill
bit; yarn needle.

Pattern
Drill a hole 38" (1 cm) from each end of dowel.
Cut yarn as foll: Cut twenty 1-yd lengths of each color. Set aside.
Cut one 18" length of each color. Thread three 18" strands held
together through yarn needle. Thread through hole at one end
and pull through about 3" of yarn. Tie an overhand knot, adding
another if necessary to keep yarn from slipping through hole. Rep
for other side.
Note: For ease, work with dowel hanging from door or wall hook;
I hung it from an existing picture hanger on the wall.
Attach yarn to dowel: Starting at center, fold yarn strand in half,
place loop over dowel from front to back, and pull yarn ends
through loop (reverse Larks Head complete; loop will be at back
of dowel). Rep with rem strands in this order: 10 A at center, 20
B at each side of A, 20 C at each side of B, 5 A at outer sides.
Straighten knots at top; comb your fingers through the yarn to
straighten. Decide how you want to trim ends. To cut as shown:
Measure 20" down outer strand; measure 24" down center
strand. Lay flat on table and cut at an angle from outer 20" to
inner 24".

MACRAM NECKLACE
Marcy Smith

FUN FLOWERS

Getting Started

Marcy Smith

Finished Size 60" long.


Yarn Bernat Roving (80% acrylic, 20% wool; 120 yd [109 m]/

Finished Size Small flower, 1" diameter; large flower,

3 oz [100 g];

3" diameter.
Yarn Bernat Handicrafter Crochet Thread (100% acrylic; 371 yd
[339 m]/3 oz [85 g];
): #31222 ripe avocado, #31305 vivid violet,
1 ball each; Bernat Handicrafter Cotton (100% US grown cotton;
80 yd [73 m]/1 oz [50 g];
): #13530 country red, #13130 warm
brown, 1 ball each; Bernat Roving (80% acrylic, 20% wool; 120 yd
[109 m]/3 oz [100 g];
): #714 coral, 1 ball.
Notions Clover Mini Flower Loom; Clover Hana-Ami Flower Loom.

Pattern

Pattern
Foll the instructions that come with the loom to make flowers. The Hana-Ami loom has a variety of sizes, both round and
square. The small flowers were made with the Mini Flower Loom.
You can use the yarns as shown in the photos or devise your own
color schemes. It is fun to pair thick and thin yarns. You might
experiment with wire or yarn that incorporates wire.

Want more
\DUQRZHUV"
Crochet
Flowers
Make Motifs for
Jewelry, Gifts,
ents
& Embellishm
with
la
Robyn Chachu

): #714 coral (A), #032 putty (B), 1 ball each.

Note: This design makes an exuberantly long necklace, designed


to be worn doubled. Adjust the length as you desire.
Cut a 1-yd length of either color. Tie two ends together in an
overhand knot. Loop over doorknob, door edge, or picture hanger
on the wall.
Cut 10-yd lengths of each color. Fold in half and join at fold of
short loop.
Arrange strands so that two A strands are at left and two B
strands are at right. Foll illustration for Double Knotted Bar,
work first A loop, then B loop. Continue until you have about a
yard of looped strands. Hold all end strands together and tie an
overhand knot. Tighten, then trim ends.
TO WEAR: Loop strand twice for a regular length; loop three times
for a choker length. Or tie a loose overhand knot about 12" from
center, using both sides of loop.

Double Knotted Bar

From Weldons Practical Macram Lace

Getting Started

GET THE
VIDEO OR DVD
CROCHET FLOWERS
bit.ly/crochet-flowers

with

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41

Feature | Yarn Play

PEGBOARD ART

POM-POM WREATH

Marcy Smith

Vickie Howell

Getting Started

Getting Started

Finished Size 1634" wide and 812" long. 834" square for small

Finished Size About 20 diameter.


Yarn Patons Classic Wool Roving (100% wool; 120 yd [109 m]

size.

Yarn Phentex Bernat Sheep(ish) by Vickie Howell (70% acrylic,


30% wool; 167 yd [158 m]/3 oz [85 g];
): #17 chartreuse(ish)
(A), 1 ball; Bernat Roving (80% acrylic, 20% wool; 120 yd [109
m]/3 oz [100 g];
): #714 coral (B), 1 ball; Worsted Solids
(100% acrylic; 867 yd [792 m]/14 oz [400 g];
): #2322 dark
mauve (C), 1 ball; Phentex Worsted Ombres (100% acrylic; 582 yd
[532 m]/1012 oz [300 g];
): # 44046 intrigue ombre (D), 1 ball.
Notions Pegboards; jigsaw or circular saw (or ask someone at
hardware store to cut to size); yarn needle.

/3 oz [100 g];
): #77008 aran (A), 1 ball; Bernat Roving
(80% acrylic, 20% wool; 120 yd [109 m]/31/2 oz [100 g];
):
#11 bark (B), 1 ball; Bernat Dimensions (70% acrylic, 30%
wool; 160 yd [146 m]/2 oz [80 g];
): #7 coral taupe (C),
1 ball.
Notions 1 Clover Pom-pom Maker Large (2-pack) in sizes 212"
(65 mm) and 338" (85 mm); scissors; 16" (40.5 cm) diameter
wreath form; hot glue and gun; optional: bottle brush trees.

Pattern

Pattern

Cut boards to size: Square boards have 8 holes 8 holes;


rectangle has 8 holes 16 holes.
For all boards: Thread needle with yarn as designated in chart
(or with your yarn of choice), and pull through so both ends meet.
Working with yarn doubled, and working over tail, stitch design
foll charts. Weave in ends.

Make pom-poms:

Pegboard 1
2
7

Directions for all sizes:


Wind yarn around arches of maker.

Pegboard 2
4

4
1
3
6
8

Approx. number of pom-poms to make (may vary, based on


placement): 9 each of both larger and smaller pom-poms in A
and B, and 11 smaller pom-poms in C.

Pegboard 3

2
1

5
6

8 x 8 holes

8 x 8 holes

Stitch Key
= with A

= with C

= with B

= with D

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= yarn runs behind


pegboard

8 x 16 holes

Cut wrapped yarn.


Tie additional piece of yarn around cut yarn still in maker.
Open one arch at a time and remove from pom-pom maker.
Trim to shape.

FINISHING
Assemble Wreath:
Using hot glue and gun, attach pom-poms to wreath form relatively close together to create a full look. Attach optional bottle
brush trees (or your own embellishment!).

Want more
Craftiness?

POM-POM GARLAND
Vickie Howell

Getting Started
Finished Size About 76".
Yarn Patons Classic Wool Bulky (100% wool; 78 yd [71 m]/
3 oz [100 g];
): #8908 aran (A), 1 ball; Patons Classic
Wool Roving (100% wool; 120 yd [109 m]/3 oz [100 g];
):
#77615 yellow (B), 1 ball; Bernat Sheep(ish) by Vickie Howell
(70% acrylic, 30% wool; 167 yd [158 m]/3 oz [85 g];
):
raspberry(ish) (C), 1 ball; Patons Classic Wool Worsted
(100% wool; 210 yd [192 m]/3 oz [100 g];
): #77525 moss
heather (D), 1 ball.
Hook Size N/P-15 (10 mm).
Notions 1 each, Clover Pom-pom Maker Large (2-pack) in
sizes 212" (65 mm) (medium) and 338" (85 mm) (large) and
Extra Large in size 412" (115 mm); scissors; yarn needle;
2 large wooden beads.

Pattern
Make Garland Base:
Leaving 12" (30.5 cm) tail, using A double-stranded, crochet a 72"
(183 cm) long chain. Fasten off, leaving 12" (30.5 cm) tail. Tie end
into knotted loop; slide bead over knot. Rep for opposite side.

Make Pom-poms:
With B, make 3 extra large pom-poms. With C, make 3 medium
pom-poms. With D, make 2 large pom-poms.

Directions for all sizes:


Wind yarn around arches of maker.
Cut wrapped yarn.
Tie additional piece of yarn around cut yarn still in maker.
Open one arch at a time and remove from pom-pom maker.
Trim to shape, leaving tail for sewing.

FINISHING
Using yarn and yarn needle sew pom-poms to garland base,
about 512" (14 cm) from each other. Bury ends in pom-poms.

GET
THESE
BOOKS
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Feature | Yarn Play

Notes
Bag body is made up of 5 strips sewn together plus one strip
for strap that wraps around the sides and across bottom.
Loosely follow instructions that come with sticks for basics.
Core yarn is left exposed as fringe.
When moving sticks up, one at a time is easiest.

Pattern
STRAP
Cut six strands of D, at least 90" long each. Thread 1 strand
through hole of each stick for core yarn.
With B, make slip knot and place on smaller hook.
Row 1: With yarn behind the 6 sticks held tog in left hand,
working from right to left and always inserting hook from
front to back between indicated sticks, sl st across sticks
as foll: insert hook between first and 2nd stick, yo and pull
through lp on hook to form ch in front, insert hook between
2nd and 3rd stick, yo and pull through lp on hook to form ch
in front, insert hook between 3rd and 4th stick, yo and pull
through lp on hook to form ch in front, insert hook between
4th and 5th stick, yo and pull through lp on hook to form ch
in front, insert hook between 5th and 6th sticks, yo and pull
through lp on hook to form ch in front, form last ch by yo to
the left of last stick, ch 1, turn.
Rep Row 1, moving sticks up when full, until 308 rows have
been completed. Do not fasten off B.

Side trims:
Switch to larger hook. Rotate piece to work along side edge,
*sc in tch, ch 1; rep from * to end, fasten off. Join B to other
side edge and rep.

STRIP (MAKE 5)
Cut six at least 40" long strands. Thread 1 strand through
hole of each stick for core yarn.
Using A, rep Row 1 of strap until 204 rows have been
completed.

Side trims:
Rotate piece and working along side edge, sc in each tch,
fasten off. Join A to other side edge and rep.
Make 2 more strips using A, and 2 strips using C.

FINISHING

WEAVING STICKS BAG


Lily Chin

Getting Started
Finished Size 1212" wide, 10" high, and 212" deep; straps: about

Sew strips in this order: A, C, A, C, A. Fold strips in half


length-wise. Using picture as a guide, arrange strap around
sewn strips so that about 18" of each strap end is free for
handle and strap crosses over strips, covering 212" width for
bottom of bag. Sew each side edge of strap to side edge strip
at one end of bag, sew strap across bottom 212" of bag, sew
each side edge of strap to side edge strip at other end of bag.
Trim all ends at top of bag to desired length. Tie core yarns of
straps tog.

6812" long and 212" wide.

Yarn Caron Simply Soft (distributed by Spinrite) (100% acrylic;


208 yd [190 m]/4 oz [113 g];
): #9801 baby brights ombre (A),
2 skeins. Caron Simply Soft (distributed by Spinrite) (100%
acrylic; 315 yd [288 m]/6 oz [170 g];
): #9756 lavender blue
(B), #9754 persimmon (C), 1 skein each. Bernat Softee Chunky
(distributed by Spinrite) (100% acrylic; 108 yd [99 m]/3 oz [100 g];
): #28323 dark mauve (D), 1 skein.
Hook Sizes H/8 (5mm) and G/6 (4mm). Adjust hook size if
necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions Set of 6 (Fine) Weaving Sticks from Clover, article #8440
(includes yarn needle).
Gauge 18 sts in sc = 4" with smaller hook. 18 sts in sc-ch1 = 4"
with larger hook.
44 Crochetscene

2015

MARCY SMITH is editor of Interweave Crochet


and Crochetscene. VICKIE HOWELL is Creativity
Spokesperson for www.Yarnspirations.com; you can
learn more about Vickie at www.vickiehowell.com.
LILY CHIN is the newest inductee to the Crochet Guild
of Americas Crochet Hall of Fame (see page 10).

Want more yarn play?

GET OUR
SUMMER
ISSUE!
bit.ly/diy-wedding-summer15

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45

Retro looks with a modern vibe.

46 Crochetscene

2015

Bubbles Sweater by Jill Wright.


This classic two-color, slightly dolman
sleeve sweater is worked sideways from
cuff to cuff. The two-row stitch pattern
and color change are easily memorized,
resulting in a versatile pullover that
looks great with shorts, skirts, or jeans.
Yarn: Rowan Cotton Glac (distributed
by Westminster Fibers). Page 69.

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47

Tribbles Vests by Doris Chan.


The trouble with these tribbles
is deciding which retro vest to
make! Vintage-inspired, with a
contemporary attitude toward
fabric, fit, and drape, these
adorable no-sew vests are
exceptionally fun to wear and
jolly good canvases for playing
with color. The body squares are
interchangeable and have shared
assembly instructions, so you
can mix and match. Yarn: Valley
Yarns Goshen (distributed by
WEBS). Page 58.

48 Crochetscene

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KIT
Tribbles Vests
sh

op

Crochetscene

co
m

get the

e.
.cro
chetm

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49

Originator Tote by Nicoletta Tronci.


This bag is a blast to makeand when
its finished, it will hold your electronic
reader, notebook, crochet-in-progress,
and more! Inspired by bohemian colors
and fabrics, the bag features a medley
of traditional stitches, tapestry crochet,
and surface chain embroideries, embellished with a glitter thread.
Yarn: Garnstudio DROPS Alaska and
DROPS Glitter. Page 64.

50 Crochetscene

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51

Swish-Swish Skirt by Jill Hanratty.


Lace insets give the skirt flare; the skirt
gives you flair! Youll wonder how your
wardrobe ever got along without it.
Yarn: HiKoo CoBaSi (distributed by
Skacel). Page 54.

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53

Fresh Takes

180, 192), sl st in first fsc to join.


Rnd 2: (RS) Ch 1, *esc (see Glossary)
in next sc, ch 1, sk next sc; rep from *
around, sl st in first esc to join, turn72
(78, 84, 90, 96) esc.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in each esc and ch-sp
around, sl st in first sc to join, turn144
(156, 168, 180, 192) sc.

Skirt:

SWISH-SWISH SKIRT
Jill Hanratty

4
HiKoo CoBaSi

Getting Started
Finished Size 2834 (3114, 3312, 36, 3812)"
waist, 3812 (4112, 4434, 48, 5114)" hip, 22
(23, 23, 24, 24)" finished length (including
waistband). Garment shown measures
2834", modeled with 3" ease.
Yarn HiKoo CoBaSi (distributed by Skacel)
(55% cotton, 16% bamboo, 8% silk, 21%
elastic nylon; 220 yd [201 m]/1 oz [50 g];
): #011 indigo, 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) hanks.
Hook Size G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if
necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions Yarn needle.
Gauge 15 sts and 7 rows = 3" in patt.

Notes
Skirt is worked from top down in joined,
turned rnds.

Stitch Guide
Picot: Ch 3, sl st in first ch.

Pattern
Waistband:
Rnd 1: Fsc (see Glossary) 144 (156, 168,

22 (23, 23, 24, 24)"


55.75 (58.5, 58.5, 61, 61) cm

2834 (3114, 3312, 36, 3812)"


73 (79.5, 85, 91.5, 98) cm

3812 (4112, 4434, 48, 5114)"


98 (105.5, 113.5, 122, 130) cm

SKIRT

115 (125, 13512, 144, 15312)"


292 (317.5, 344, 365.5, 390) cm

54 Crochetscene

2015

Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc in same sc, sk next sc, dc in next


sc, ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next sc, sk next
sc, *3 dc in next sc, sk next sc, dc in next
sc, ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next sc, sk next
sc; rep from * around to first dc, dc in
same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join,
turn120 (130, 140, 150, 160) dc.
Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same dc, sk next dc,
BPdc (see Glossary) around next dc, ch
1, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk
next dc, *3 dc in next dc, sk next dc, BPdc
around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, BPdc
around next dc, sk next dc; rep from *
around to first dc, dc in same sp as first
dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn.
Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same dc, sk next dc,
FPdc (see Glossary) around next dc, ch
1, sk next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk
next dc, *3 dc in next dc, sk next dc, FPdc
around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, FPdc
around next dc, sk next dc; rep from *
around to first dc, dc in same sp as first
dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn.
Rnds 47: Rep Rnds 23 two times.
Rnd 8: Ch 3, dc in same dc, sk next dc,
BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp,
BPdc around next dc, sk next dc, *(2 dc, ch
1, 2 dc) in next dc, sk next dc, BPdc around
next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around
next dc, sk next dc; rep from * around to
first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, ch 1,
sl st in first dc to join, turn144 (156, 168,
180, 192) dc.
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sl st in next ch-sp, ch 3, dc in
same sp, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next
dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, FPdc around next
dc, sk next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next
ch-sp, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc,
ch 1, sk next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc,
sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc,

2 dc in same sp as first dc, ch 1, sl st in


first dc to join, turn.
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sl st in next ch-sp, ch 3, dc
in same sp, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next
dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next
dc, sk next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next
ch-sp, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc,
ch 1, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc,
sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc,
2 dc in same sp as first dc, ch 1, sl st in
first dc to join, turn.
Rnds 1114: Rep Rnds 910 two times.
Rnd 15: Ch 1, sl st in next ch-sp, ch 3, 2
dc in same sp, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around
next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, FPdc around
next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next ch-sp,
sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk
next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next
2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in
same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join,
turn168 (182, 196, 210, 224) dc.
Rnd 16: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next
2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next
ch-sp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc,
*5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around
next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around
next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to
first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in
first dc to join, turn.
Rnd 17: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next
2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next
ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc,
*5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around
next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp, FPdc around
next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to
first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in
first dc to join, turn.
Rnds 1821 (23, 21, 23, 21): Rep Rnds
1617 two (three, two, three, two) times.

Establish flare:
Rnd 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc,
BPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp,
BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in
next dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc,
ch 2, sk next ch-sp, BPdc around next dc,
sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc,
2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc
to join, turn.
Rnd 2: (RS) Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next
2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sc in next

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ch-2 sp, ch 2, FPdc around next dc, sk next


2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc
around next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch-sp, ch 2,
FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from
* around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first
dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn168 (182,
196, 210, 224) dc, 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) sc.
Rnd 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2
dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sc in next
ch-sp, ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next ch-sp, ch
1, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc
in next dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next
dc, ch 1, sc in next ch-sp, ch 3, sk next sc,
sc in next ch-sp, ch 1, BPdc around next
dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first
dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first
dc to join, turn168 (182, 196, 210, 224)
dc, 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) sc, 24 (26, 28, 30, 32)
ch-3 sps.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc,
FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp
and next sc, sc in next ch-sp, ch 2, sk next
sc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc,
sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc,
FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp
and next sc, sc in next ch-sp, ch 2, sk next
sc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk
next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2
dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to
join, turn.
Rnds 57 (7, 9, 9, 11): Rep Rnds 34 one
(one, two, two, three) times, then rep Rnd
3 once more.

Shape insets:
Rnd 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc,
FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp
and next sc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-sp, ch
2, sk next ch-sp and next sc, FPdc around
next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk
next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk
next ch-sp and next sc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in
next ch-sp, ch 2, sk next sc and next ch-sp,
FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep
from * around to last dc, 2 dc in same sp
as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn216
(234, 252, 270, 288) dc, 72 (78, 84, 90, 96)
ch-2 sps.
Rnd 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc,
BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp
and next dc, (dc, ch 1) 4 times in next chsp, sk next dc and next ch-sp, BPdc around
next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk
next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk
next ch-sp and next dc, (dc, ch 1) 4 times
in next ch-sp, sk next dc and next ch-sp,
BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep
from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp
as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn264
(286, 308, 330, 352) dc.
Rnd 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc,
FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp
and next dc, sc in next ch-sp, [ch 3, sk next
dc, sc in next ch-sp] 2 times, ch 2, sk next
dc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc,
sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc,
56 Crochetscene

2015

FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp


and next dc, sc in next ch-sp, [ch 3, sk next
dc, sc in next ch-sp] 2 times, ch 2, sk next
dc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk
next 2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2
dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to
join, turn168 (182, 196, 210, 224) dc, 72

(78, 84, 90, 96) sc, 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) ch-2
sps, 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) ch-3 sps.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2
dc, BPdc around next dc, sk next ch-sp
and next sc, ch 3, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3]
2 times, sk next sc and next ch-sp, BPdc
around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next

dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 3,


sk next ch-sp and next sc, [sc in next ch-3
sp, ch 3] 2 times, sk next sc and next chsp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep
from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp
as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn168
(182, 196, 210, 224) dc, 48 (52, 56, 60, 64)
sc, 72 (78, 84, 90, 96) ch-3 sps.
Rnd 5: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc,
FPdc around next dc, ch 3, sk next ch-sp
and next sc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-3
sp, ch 3, sk next sc and next ch-sp, FPdc
around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next
dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch
3, sk next ch-sp and next sc, (dc, ch 3, dc)
in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next sc and next
ch-sp, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc;
rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same
sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn.
Rnd 6: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc,
BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-sp
and next dc, (dc, ch 1) 5 times in next chsp, sk next dc and next ch-sp, BPdc around
next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk
next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk
next ch-sp and next dc, (dc, ch 1) 5 times
in next ch-sp, sk next dc and next ch-sp,
BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep
from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp
as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn288
(312, 336, 360, 384) dc.
Rnd 7: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2 dc,
FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-sp
and next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 3, sk
next dc, sc in next ch-sp] 3 times, ch 2, sk
next dc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next
dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next
2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next
ch-sp and next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch
3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-sp] 3 times, ch
2, sk next dc and next ch-sp, FPdc around
next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around
to first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl
st in first dc to join, turn168 (182, 196,
210, 224) dc, 96 (104, 112, 120, 128) sc, 48
(52, 56, 60, 64) ch-2 sps, 72 (78, 84, 90, 96)
ch-3 sps.
Rnd 8: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2
dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 3, sk next
ch-sp and next sc, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch
3, sk next sc] 3 times, sk next ch-sp, BPdc
around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next
dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 3,
sk next ch-sp and next sc, [sc in next ch-3
sp, ch 3, sk next sc] 3 times, sk next ch-sp,
BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep
from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp
as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn168
(182, 196, 210, 224) dc, 72 (78, 84, 90, 96)
sc, 96 (104, 112, 120, 128) ch-3 sps.
Rnd 9: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2
dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sc in next
ch-sp, ch 3, sk next sc and next ch-sp, (dc,
ch 3, dc) in next sc, ch 3, sk next ch-sp
and next sc, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, FPdc

around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next


dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1,
sc in next ch-sp, ch 3, sk next sc and next
ch-sp, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next sc, ch 3, sk next
ch-sp and next sc, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch
1, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep
from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp
as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn216
(234, 252, 270, 288) dc, 48 (52, 56, 60, 64)
sc, 72 (78, 84, 90, 96) ch-3 sps.
Rnd 10: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next
2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next
ch-sp, next sc and next ch-sp, (dc, ch 1) six
times in next ch-sp, sk next dc, next ch-sp,
next sc and next ch-sp, BPdc around next
dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next
2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 1, sk next
ch-sp, next sc and next ch-sp, (dc, ch 1) six
times in next ch-sp, sk next dc, next ch-sp,
next sc and next ch-sp, BPdc around next
dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to first
dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in first
dc to join, turn312 (338, 364, 390, 416)
dc.
Rnd 11: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2
dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next chsp and next dc, sc in next ch-sp, [ch 3, sk
next dc, sc in next ch-sp] 4 times, ch 2, sk
next dc and next ch-sp, FPdc around next
dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next
2 dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 2, sk next
ch-sp and next dc, sc in next ch-sp, [ch 3,
sk next dc, sc in next ch-sp] 4 times, ch 2,
sk next dc and next ch-sp, FPdc around
next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep from * around to
first dc, 2 dc in same sp as first dc, sl st in
first dc to join, turn168 (182, 196, 210,
224) dc, 120 (130, 140, 150, 160) sc, 48 (52,
56, 60, 64) ch-2 sps, 96 (104, 112, 120, 128)
ch-3 sps.
Rnd 12: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next
2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch 3, sk next
ch-sp and next sc, [sc in next ch-sp, ch 3,
sk next sc] 4 times, sk next ch-sp, BPdc
around next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next
dc, sk next 2 dc, BPdc around next dc, ch
3, sk next ch-sp and next sc, [sc in next
ch-sp, ch 3, sk next sc] 4 times, sk next chsp, BPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep
from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp
as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn168
(182, 196, 210, 224) dc, 96 (104, 112, 120,
128) sc, 120 (130, 140, 150, 160) ch-3 sps.
Rnd 13: Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next 2
dc, FPdc around next dc, ch 1, sc in next
ch-sp, ch 3, sk next sc, next ch-sp and next
sc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-sp, ch 3, sk
next sc, next ch-sp and next sc, sc in next
ch-sp, ch 1, FPdc around next dc, sk next
2 dc, *5 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, FPdc
around next dc, ch 1, sc in next ch-sp, ch
3, sk (next sc, next ch-sp and next sc), (dc,
ch 3, dc) in next ch-sp, ch 3, sk (next sc,
next ch-sp ad next sc), sc in next ch-sp, ch
1, FPdc around next dc, sk next 2 dc; rep

from * around to first dc, 2 dc in same sp


as first dc, sl st in first dc to join, turn216
(234, 252, 270, 288) dc, 48 (52, 56, 60, 64)
sc, 72 (78, 84, 90, 96) ch-3 sps.
Rnds 1421: Rep Rnds 1013 two times.

Edging:
Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, sk next
2 dc, FPsc (see Glossary) around next dc,
picot (see Stitch Guide), sk next ch-sp and
next sc, 5 sc in next ch-sp, sk next dc, (3
sc, picot, 2 sc) in next ch-sp, sk next dc, 5
sc in next ch-sp, sk next sc and next ch-sp,
FPsc around next dc, picot, sk next 2 dc,
*(4 dc, picot, 3 dc) in next dc, sk next 2 dc,
FPsc around next dc, picot, sk next ch-sp
and next sc, 5 sc in next ch-sp, sk next dc,
(3 sc, picot, 2 sc) in next ch-sp, sk next
dc, 5 sc in next ch-sp, sk next sc and next
ch-sp, FPsc around next dc, picot, sk next
2 dc; rep from * around to first dc, 2 dc in
same sp as first dc, sl st in first dc to join.
Fasten off.

FINISHING
Drawstring:
Row 1: (RS) Ch 4, (3 dc, picot, 2 dc, ch 3,
sl st) in 4th ch from hook, ch until piece
measures about 42 (46, 50, 54, 58)" long,
do not fasten off. Secure live lp with m.
Cut yarn leaving a 36" end. Weave unfinished end of drawstring through ch-sps
of waistband rnd 2. Insert hook in last ch,
ch 4, (3 dc, picot, 2 dc, ch 3, sl st) in 4th ch
from hook. Fasten off.
Weave in ends. Block.

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57

Fresh Takes

lemon drop (C), 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s);


#11 sage (D), 1 skein.
For Four-Patch vest: #14 colonial blue, 1 (1,
2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); #3390 persimmon,
1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); #12 lake, 1 (1, 2,
2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); #07 ginger, 1 (1, 2, 2, 2,
2, 2) skein(s); #15 navy, 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5)
skeins.
Hook Size I/9 (5.5 mm). Adjust hook size if
necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions Yarn needle.
Gauge 14 sts and 8 rows = 4" in main body
patt (alternating 1 sc row, 1 dc blo row); 3
rep = 314" in granny st (3 dc, ch 1). To
check your gauge, work body motif of your
choice and use the checkpoint measurements listed at the end of each rnd.

TRIBBLES VESTS

Notes

Doris Chan

4
Valley Yarns Goshen

Getting Started
Finished Size 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40)"

7 (712, 8, 812, 9, 912, 10)"


18 (19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm

BODY
4"
10 cm

712 (8, 8, 812, 812, 9, 9)"


19 (20.5, 20.5, 21.5, 21.5, 23, 23) cm

234 (234, 234, 3, 3, 314, 314)"


7 (7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 8.5, 8.5) cm

2412 (27, 2812, 31, 3212, 35, 3612)"


62 (68.5, 72.5, 79, 82.5, 89, 92.5) cm

58 Crochetscene

2015

28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40)"


71 (76, 81.5, 86.5, 91.5, 96.5, 101.5) cm

5 (6, 6, 612, 612, 7, 7)"


12.5 (15, 15, 16.5, 16.5, 18, 18) cm

312 (312, 4, 4, 412, 412, 5)"


9 (9, 10, 10, 11.5, 11.5, 12.5) cm

bust (with stretch to fit snugly with up to


4" negative ease). Garments shown
measure 30" to fit up to 34" bust, modeled
with 2" and 3" negative ease.
Yarn Valley Yarns Goshen (distributed by
WEBS) (48% Peruvian cotton, 46% modal,
6% silk; 92 yd [84 m]/1 oz [50 g];
):
For Granny Square vest: #12 lake (A), 2 (2,
3, 3, 3, 4, 4) skeins; #11 sage (B), 2 (2, 2, 3,
3, 3, 3) skeins; #21 lemon drop (C), 1 (1, 2,
2, 2, 3, 3) skein(s); #14 colonial blue (D),
1 skein.
For Flower Motif vest: #14 colonial blue (A),
2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5) skeins; #3390 persimmon (B), 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); #21

The body blocks for the three vest versions are designed to be interchangeable,
with shared assembly instructions, so
you can mix and match as desired. Use
photos as a guide for color choices.
Granny Square vest illustrates the parts
for assembly: body block, side panels,
waist band, and straps.
Flower Motif vest is the best choice if
you are fuller in the bust because of the
extra stretch of the lace frame.
Four-Patch Block is constructed of four
small granny squares connected to each
other as you go while crocheting the last
rnd, forming one big square.

Stitch Guide
Granny block: 3 dc in next ch-sp, ch 1.
3-cluster (3-cl): dc3tog (see Glossary) in
same sc.
6-cluster (6-cl): Tr3tog (see Glossary) in
indicated ch-sp, holding back last 4 lps
on hook, sk next cl, tr3tog in next ch-sp,
holding back last 3 lps on hook, yo and
draw through all 7 lps.
Picot: Ch 5, reach back and sl st in top of
cl by inserting hook from top to bottom
under front strands of all 7 lps of cl (in
other words, trace the path of the last lp
that closed cl), yo and sl st.
Ch-1 Slip Loop Join: Ch 1, remove lp
from hook, insert hook from front to back
in next corresponding ch-1 sp of previous
motif, replace lp on hook, draw lp through,
cont with next dc on working motif.
Corner Slip Loop Join: Instead of a
ch-3 corner sp, ch 2, remove lp from
hook, insert hook from front to back in
corresponding corner sp of previous motif,
replace lp on hook, draw lp through, ch 1,
complete corner of working motif with 3
dc. At a corner where a join already exists,
insert hook in ch of previous join, under 2
strands of ch.
Slip Loop Seam (slip lp seam): Worked
with RS facing. Remove lp from hook, insert hook back to front in corresponding st
of adjacent piece, replace lp on hook, draw
through, sc in next st of current piece.

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GRANNY SQUARE BLOCK


Worked in the rnd with RS always facing.
With B, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook to
form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 2
dc in ring, [ch 2, 3 dc in ring] 3 times, end
with ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join,
fasten off112" square.
Rnd 2: Join C in any ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc
in same sp, ch 1, [(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next
ch-2 sp for corner, ch 1] 3 times, 3 dc in
same sp as beg, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of beg
ch to join, fasten off234" square.
Rnd 3: Join A in any ch-3 corner sp, ch 3,
2 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [3 dc in next ch-1
sp, ch 1] across to next ch-3 corner sp**,
(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 corner sp; rep
from * 2 times, rep from * to **, end with
3 dc in same sp as beg, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch
of beg ch to join, fasten off 4" square.
Rnd 4: Join D in any ch-3 corner sp, rep
Rnd 3.
Rnds 58 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11): Rep
Rnd 3 for 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) more rnds,
using colors in sequence B, C, A, D, or as
desired32 (36, 36, 40, 40, 44, 44) granny
blocks; 912 (1012, 1012, 1112, 1112, 1212,
1212)" square.

FLOWER MOTIF BLOCK


Worked in the rnd with RS facing.
Note: Flower motif has a frame that ends
with a rnd of granny blocks to match other
block versions for assembly. If you plan to
cont with assembly in same color, do not
fasten off after last frame rnd; otherwise,
fasten off.
Flower Motif:
With A, ch 8, sl st in beg ch to form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 16 sc in ring, sl st in beg sc to
join16 sc, 114" diameter.
Rnd 2: Cont with A, ch 7 (counts as dc, ch
4), sk first sc, [sk next sc, dc in next sc,
ch 4] 7 times, end with sl st in 3rd ch of
beg ch to join, fasten off8 ch-4 sps, 234"
diameter.
Rnd 3: Join B with sl st in any ch-4 sp of
Rnd 2, ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 4 dc
in same ch-4 sp, [ch 2, 5 dc in next ch-4
sp] 7 times, ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch
to join8 ch-2 sps, 414" diameter.
Rnd 4: Cont with B, ch 3, sk first dc, dc in
next 4 dc, [(dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc
in next 5 dc] 7 times, (dc, ch 3, dc) in last
ch-2 sp, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join8
ch-3 sps, 534" diameter.

Sizes 28 (30, 32)" only


(small flower motif):
Rnd 5: Cont with B, ch 3, sk first dc, dc4tog (see Glossary) over next 4 dc of petal,
[ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sk next dc,
dc5tog (see Glossary) over next 5 dc] 7
times, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sl st in
3rd ch of beg ch to join, fasten off16 ch-5
sps, 7" diameter.

60 Crochetscene

2015

Rnd 6: Join C with sl st in last ch-5 sp


made in Rnd 5, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 5,
*make a corner of (sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5,
3-cl in next sc, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp), ch
5**, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5] 2 times; rep
from * 2 times, rep from * to **, sc in next
ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc in beg sc (counts as ch-5
sp20 ch-5 sps, 712" square.
Rnd 7: Cont with C, ch 1, sc in beg sp, ch
5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, *over corner, (sc
in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, work 3 legs of 6-cl in
same ch-5 sp, sk 3-cl, work rem 3 legs of
6-cl in next ch-5 sp, picot, ch 5, sc in same
ch-5 sp), ch 5**, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5] 3
times; rep from * 2 times, rep from * to **,
sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sl st in beg sc to
join, fasten off28 ch-5 sps, 812" square.

sp for corner**, ch 5, [sc in next ch-4 sp,


ch 5] 5 times; rep from * 2 times, rep from
* to **, [ch 5, sc in next ch-4 sp] 3 times,
end with, ch 2, dc in beg sc (counts as ch-5
sp)24 ch-5 sps.
Rnd 8: Cont with C, ch 1, sc in beg sp, ch
5, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, *over corner, (sc
in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, work 3 legs of 6-cl in
same ch-5 sp, sk 3-cl, work rem 3 legs of
6-cl in next ch-5 sp, picot, ch 5, sc in same
ch-5 sp), ch 5**, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5]
4 times; rep from * 2 times, rep from * to
**, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5] 2 times, sl st
in beg sc to join, fasten off32 ch-5 sps,
912" square.

Sizes 34 (36, 38, 40)" only


(large flower motif):

Size 28" only:

Rnd 5: Cont with B, ch 3, sk first dc, dc in


next 5 dc, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc
in next 7 dc] 7 times, ch 3, sc in last ch-3
sp, ch 3, dc in last dc, sl st in 3rd ch of beg
ch to join16 ch-3 sps, 7" diameter.
Rnd 6: Cont with B, ch 3, sk first dc,
dc4tog over next 4 dc of petal, *[ch 4, sc in
next ch-3 sp] 2 times, ch 4**, sk next dc,
dc5tog over next 5 dc; rep from * 6 times,
rep from * to **, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to
join, fasten off24 ch-4 sps, 812" diameter.
Rnd 7: Join C with sl st in last ch-4 sp
made in Rnd 6, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 5,
sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 5, *3-cl in next ch-4

All sizes:

Motif Frame:
Rnd 1: Join D with sl st in ch-5 sp of picot
of any corner of flower motif, ch 3, 2 dc in
same sp, *ch 1, [3 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1]
across to next corner picot**, (3 dc, ch 3, 3
dc) for corner in ch-5 sp of picot; rep from
* 2 times, rep from * to **, end with 3 dc in
same ch-5 sp of picot as beg, ch 3, sl st in
3rd ch of beg ch to join32 granny blocks,
912" square.

Sizes 30 (32, 34, 36)" only:


Rnd 1: Join D with sl st in ch-5 sp of picot of
any corner of flower motif, ch 1, sc in same
ch-5 sp, *ch 5, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5]
across to next corner picot**, (sc, ch 5, sc) in
ch-5 sp of picot for corner; rep from *

2 times, rep from * to **, end with sc in same


ch-5 sp of picot as beg, ch 2, dc in beg sc
(counts as ch-5 sp) 32 (32, 36, 36) ch-5 sps.
Rnd 2: Cont with D, ch 3, 2 dc in beg sp,
ch 1, *[3 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1] across to
next corner ch-5 sp**, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in
corner ch-5 sp, ch 1; rep from * 2 times,
rep from * to **, end with 3 dc in same sp
as beg, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch36
(36, 40, 40) granny blocks, 1012 (1012, 1112,
1112)" square.

Pattern

Sizes 38 (40)" only:


Rnd 1: Work same as for Rnd 1 for size
36" above36 (36) ch-5 sps.
Rnd 2: Work same as for Rnd 2 for size
36" above, except omit last ch 3, instead
end with ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch
(counts as ch-3 sp)40 (40) granny blocks,
1112 (1112)" square.
Rnd 3: Cont with D, ch 3, 2 dc in beg sp,
*ch 1, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] across
to next corner ch-3 sp**, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc)
in ch-3 sp for corner; rep from * 2 times,
rep from * to **, 3 dc in same sp as beg, ch
3, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch to join44 (44)
granny blocks, 1212 (1212)" square.

FOUR-PATCH BLOCK
Use 5 colors to create 8 different small
granny squares (patches) to join in 2 fourpatch squares. Refer to photos for color
combinations.
Note: Sizes 28 (34, 36)" do not require a
frame; for other sizes, work granny square
round(s) to bring four-patch block to
assembly size.

Patch:
Rnds 13: Work same as for Rnds 13 of
granny square block (see Stitch Guide).

Sizes 28 (30, 32, 34, 36)" only:


Rnd 4 (last rnd or joining rnd): Join
yarn in any ch-3 corner sp, ch 3 (counts as
dc throughout), 2 dc in same sp, *ch 1 or
join (see Stitch Guide), [3 dc in next ch-1
sp, ch 1 or join] across to next ch-3 corner
sp**, (3 dc, ch 3 or corner join (see Stitch
Guide), 3 dc) in ch-3 corner sp; rep from *
2 times, rep from * to **, end with 3 dc in
same sp as beg, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of beg
ch to join, fasten off.

Sizes 38 (40)" only:


Rnd 4: Work same as for Rnd 3 of granny
square block.
Rnd 5 (last rnd or joining rnd): Work
and join same as for Rnd 4 of patch above.

Sizes 30 (32, 38, 40)" only:


Motif frame: Join yarn in any ch-3 corner
sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, *ch 1, sk next 3
dc, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next 3 dc]
across to next join between corners, 3 dc
in 2 strands of chain of previous join, ch 1,
sk next 3 dc, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk
next 3 dc] across to next ch-3 corner sp**,
(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner sp; rep from *
2 times, rep from * to **, end with 3 dc in
same sp as beg, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of beg
ch, fasten off if not cont with this color36
(36, 44, 44) granny blocks.

Make 2 body blocks in your size using


either a granny square block (see Stitch
Guide), a flower motif block (see Stitch
Guide), or a four-patch block (see Stitch
Guide) (see Notes)32 (36, 36, 40, 40, 44,
44) granny blocks in last rnd of block.
Note: Work dc in ch-1 sp bet granny
blocks, not in ch-1 sps, inserting hook
under 2 lps of ch (the back lp and the
bump in back of the ch) each time.
Body Block Finishing Rnd for all but
four-patch block sizes 28 (34, 36)":
With RS facing, join yarn in ch-3 sp of
any corner of block (or cont with same
yarn), ch 3, dc in same ch-3 sp, dc blo in
next 3 dc, *[dc in next ch, dc blo in next 3
dc] across to next corner ch-3 sp, 4 dc in
corner ch-3 sp**, dc blo in next 3 dc; rep
from * 2 times, rep from * to **, sl st in
3rd ch of beg ch, fasten off if not cont with
same color for side panels140 (156, 156,
172, 172, 188, 188) dc; 1012 (1112 , 1112,
1212, 1212, 1312, 1312)" diameter.
Body Block Finishing Rnd for fourpatch block sizes 28 (34, 36)": With RS
facing, join yarn in ch-3 sp of any corner of
block (or cont with same yarn), ch 3, dc in
same ch-3 sp, *dc blo in next 3 dc, [dc in
next ch, dc blo in next 3 dc] across to next
join between corners, dc in ch of previous
join, dc blo in next 3 dc, [dc in next ch, dc
blo in next 3 dc] across to next corner ch-3
sp**, 4 dc in corner ch-3 sp; rep from * 2
times, rep from * to **, end with 2 dc in
same sp as beg, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch,
fasten off if not cont with same color for
side panels140 (172, 172) dc.

Side Panels:
Worked in rows, alternating 1 RS row in
sc with 1 WS row in dc flo. With RS of first
body block facing, join yarn (or cont with
same yarn) in 3rd dc of any 4-dc corner.

Sizes 28 (30)" only:


Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in 3rd dc of 4-dc
corner, working toward upper edge of
body, sc in 4th dc of corner, sc in next 23
(25) dc, turn25 (27) sc.
Row 2: (WS) Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), working toward lower edge of body,
sk first sc, dc flo in each sc to last sc, dc in
both lps of last sc, turn25 (27) dc.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each dc across, ending
with sc in 3rd ch of tch, turn.
Rows 46: Rep Rows 23 once, then work
Row 2 once more, turn25 (27) dc.

Sizes 32 (34, 36, 38)" only:


Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in 3rd dc of 4-dc corner, working toward upper edge of body, sc
in 4th dc of corner, sc in next 26 (28, 28, 30)
dc, turn28 (30, 30, 32) sc.
Row 2: (WS) Ch 3, working toward lower
edge of body, sk first sc, dc2tog (see Glossary) flo over next 2 sc, dc flo in each sc to

Crochetscene

interweavecrochet.com

61

Fresh Takes

last sc, dc in both lps of last sc, turn27


(29, 29, 31) dc.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each dc across, ending
with sc in 3rd ch of tch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 3, working toward lower edge
of body, sk first sc, dc flo in each sc to last
sc, dc in both lps of last sc, turn.
Rows 57 (7, 9, 9): Rep Rows 34 one
(one, two, two) times, then work Row 3
once more27 (29, 29, 31) sc.
Row 8 (8, 10, 10): Ch 3, working toward
lower edge of body, sk first sc, 2 dc flo in
next sc, dc flo in each sc to last sc, dc in
both lps of last sc, turn28 (30, 30, 32) dc.

Size 40" only:


Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in 3rd dc of 4-dc
corner, working toward upper edge of
body, sc in 4th dc of corner, sc in next 31
dc, turn33 sc.

matching 25 (27, 28, 30, 30, 32, 33) st, join


pieces as foll.
Next row (slip lp seam): (RS) Ch 1,
remove lp from hook, insert hook back
to front in 3rd dc of motif corner, replace
lp on hook, draw through, sc in first dc of
panel (first st joined), remove lp from hook,
insert hook back to front in last dc of motif
corner, replace lp on hook, draw through,
sc in next dc of panel, slip lp seam (see
Stitch Guide) in same way each of next 23
(25, 26, 28, 28, 30, 31) sc to corresponding
dc of motif edge, ending with sc in 3rd ch
of tch, fasten off.
With RS facing, join yarn in 3rd dc of 4-dc
corner at other lower corner of 2nd body
block. Work 2nd side panel same as for
first side panel. Slip lp seam to corresponding st of first body block, fasten off.

Straps:
RIGHT STRAP:

Row 2: (WS) Ch 3, working toward lower


edge of body, sk first sc, dc2tog flo over
next 2 sc, dc flo in each sc to last sc, dc in
both lps of last sc, turn32 dc rem.
Row 3: (RS) Ch 1, sc in each dc across,
ending with sc in 3rd ch of tch, turn.
Row 4: Rep Row 231 dc rem.
Row 5: Rep Row 3.
Row 6: Ch 3, working toward lower edge
of body, sk first sc, dc flo in each sc to last
sc, dc in both lps of last sc, turn.
Rows 79: Rep Rows 56 once, then work
Row 5 once more.
Row 10: Ch 3, working toward lower edge
of body, sk first sc, 2 dc flo in next sc, dc flo
in each sc to last sc, dc in both lps of last
sc, turn32 dc.
Row 11: Rep Row 5.
Row 12: Rep Row 1033 dc.

All sizes:
With RS of 2nd body block facing, lay it
side by side next to last row of side panel,
beg with 2 sts of motif lower corner,
62 Crochetscene

2015

With RS of upper edge of one body block


facing, join yarn in first dc of 4-dc corner,
working across remainder of corner
toward center of body.
Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in first dc of 4-dc
corner, sc in next 3 dc of corner, sc in next
5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) dc, turn9 (9, 9, 10, 10,
11, 11) sc.
Row 2: (WS) Ch 3, sk first sc, working
toward side of body, dc flo in each sc to
last sc, dc in both lps of last sc, turn9 (9,
9, 10, 10, 11, 11) dc.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each dc across, ending
with sc in 3rd ch of tch, turn.
Rows 414 (14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20): Rep
Rows 23 five (five, six, six, seven, seven,
eight) times or for desired strap length,
then work Row 2 once more9 (9, 9, 10,
10, 11, 11) dc.
Holding RS of 2nd body block side by side
with last row of strap, matching 2nd body
block upper corner to lp on hook and
matching sts, work slip lp seam as foll: Ch
1, remove lp from hook, insert hook back
to front in first dc of motif corner, replace
lp on hook, draw through, sc in first dc
of panel (first st joined), cont seaming in
same way to each of 3 rem dc of motif
corner and to each of next 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7)
dc of motif edge, ending with sc in 3rd ch
of tch, fasten off.

LEFT STRAP:
Rotate 2nd body block so upper edge is
on top, join yarn in first dc of 4-dc corner,
work 2nd strap in same way. Slip lp seam
to corresponding sts of first body block,
fasten off.
Fit Tip: You might want to work neckline
and armhole trims before working waist
band. The Trim rnds are meant to hold in
some of the excess stretch and give some
curved shaping. This will give you a better
idea of how the vest will fit, allowing you to

better judge the working length, and helping you decide if you may want to alter the
depth of the waist band. Keep in mind that
the more negative ease youre wearing
(the tighter the bust), the shorter the vest
will hang on the body; the looser the fit,
the longer the vest will hang.

Waist Band:
Worked in joined, turned rnds. With RS
facing, lower edge of body at top, join yarn
in unworked dc just before one side panel
(next dc of 4-dc lower corner).
Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same dc, place
marker (pm) in this sc, *working across
row edges of panel, inserting hook under 2
strands of row edge each time, [sc in next
sc row edge, 2 sc evenly spaced in next dc
row edge] across panel, sc in last sc row
edge of panel for 10 (10, 13, 13, 16, 16, 19)
sc across side panel, sc in next dc of body
block, pm in this sc**, sc in each dc across
to last dc of body block, sc in last dc and
pm; rep from * to **, sc in each dc across
body block, end with sl st in beg sc to join,
turn90 (98, 104, 112, 118, 126, 132) sc.
Rnd 2 (dec rnd): (WS) Ch 3, sk first
marked sc, *dc2tog flo over next 2 sc after
m, dc flo in each sc across body to 2 sc
before next m, dc2tog flo over 2 sc before
m, dc flo in marked sc, dc flo in each sc of
side panel to next m**, dc flo in marked
sc; rep from * to **, end with sl st in 3rd ch
of beg ch, turn86 (94, 100, 108, 114, 122,
128) dc.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in 3rd ch of same beg ch,
sk sl st, sc in each dc around, end with sl
st in beg sc, turn.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, sk first sc, sk sl st, dc flo in
each sc around, end with sl st in 3rd ch of
beg ch, turn.
Rnds 58: Rep Rnds 34 two times, fasten
off.
Fit Tip: Adjust length by adding or omitting
rnds, end with a Rnd 4.

FINISHING
Trims:
The 2 rnds of trim can be worked in either
one or 2 contrasting colors. Neckline and
armhole trims are to be worked firmly to
help control some of the stretch in the
straps and shape the curves. The lower
trim should be worked to gauge to avoid
pulling in the edge of the band.

Neckline trim:
With RS facing, neckline edge on top, join
yarn in unworked dc of body motif just
before one strap.
Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same dc, *working
across row edges of strap, inserting hook
under 2 strands of row edge each time, [sc
in next sc row edge, 2 sc evenly spaced in
next dc row edge] across strap, sc in last
sc row edge of strap for 22 (22, 25, 25, 28,
28, 31) sc across strap, sc in each dc of

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Fresh Takes

two 20" long and 1" wide strips of leather


for handles; one magnetic snap; yarn
needle.
Gauge 14 sts and 18 rows = 4" in sc.

motif neck edge to other strap; rep from *,


end with sl st in beg sc, do not turn.
If changing colors, fasten off, join new
color in same sc.
Rnd 2: (RS) Ch 1, rev sc (see Glossary) in
first sc, [ch 1, sk next sc, rev sc in next sc]
around, end with ch 1, sk last sc, sl st in
same sc as beg of rnd to join, fasten off.

Notes
Bag is made of 2 panels worked as a
sequence of different patts and seamed
on the bottom. Side panels are worked
separately and then joined with a sc
crochet seam.
Beg ch 3 counts as dc throughout.

Armhole trim:
With RS of one armhole facing, with row
edges of side panel on top, join yarn in 2nd
(2nd, 3rd, 3rd, 4th, 4th, 5th) sc row edge of
panel.
Rnd 1: (RS) Working across row edges
of panel, inserting hook under 2 strands
of row edge each time, sc in same sc row
edge, 2 sc evenly spaced in next dc row
edge, sc in next sc row edge, 2 sc evenly
spaced in rem dc row edge, sc2tog last
sc row edge of panel and next dc of motif
armhole edge, sc in rem dc of motif to
strap, working across row edge of strap,
inserting hook under 2 strands of row
edge each time, sc in next sc row edge,
[2 sc evenly spaced in next dc row edge,
sc in next sc row edge] for 22 (22, 25, 25,
28, 28, 31) sc across strap, sc in each dc
of motif armhole edge to last dc, sc2tog
last dc and first sc row edge of side panel,
work across rem row edges of side panel
as before, end with sl st in beg sc to join,
do not turn.
Rnd 2: (RS) Work same as for Rnd 2 of
neckline trim.
Rep for 2nd armhole.

Lower edge trim:


With RS facing, lower edge of waist band
on top, join yarn in any dc at center of one
side.
Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same dc, sc in each
dc around, end with sl st in beg sc to join,
do not turn.
Rnd 2: (RS) Work same as for Rnd of
neckline trim.
Weave ends, block vest to measurements.

Bobble A

Stitch Guide

ORIGINATOR TOTE
Nicoletta Tronci

<4

<2
1>

6-st patt rep

4
Garnstudio DROPS Alaska

Getting Started
Finished Size 14" wide, 13" tall (without
handle), and 4" deep.

Yarn Garnstudio DROPS Alaska (100% wool;


76 yd [69 m]/1 oz [50 g];
): #05 dark
grey (MC), 5 skeins; #58 mustard (CC1), #11
dark red (CC2), #53 dark pink (CC3), #40
grey pink (CC4), #54 purple (CC5), #37 dark
blue (CC6), #45 light olive (CC7), #23 brown
(CC8), 1 skein each.
Garnstudio DROPS Glitter (60% cupro, 40%
metal; 766 yd [700 m]/ oz [10 g];
): #01
gold, 1 skein.
Hook Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust hook size if
necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions Two 14" long and 114" wide strips
of corrugated plastic to reinforce top
border; one 14" long and 4" wide strip of
corrugated plastic to reinforce bottom;

Stitch Key

3>

Bobble B
3>
<2
1>

= patt repeat

4-st patt rep

= with MC, ch 1,
sk 1 st

<1

= with CC1, bobble

2>

6-st patt rep

64 Crochetscene

= patt repeat

2015

Tapestry A

= with CC1, ch 1,
sk 1 st

6>

= with CC7, bobble

2>

<3
<1

3>
<2

= with CC5,
tapestry sc
= patt repeat

6-st patt rep

Tapestry B

= with CC2, ch 1,
sk 1 st
= with CC6, bobble

2>
<1

6-st patt rep


= patt repeat

Stitch Key
<3

= with CC4, bobble

4-st patt rep

= with CC4,
tapestry sc

Stitch Key
<4

1>

Stitch Key
<5

4>

= patt repeat

= with CC2, dc

= with MC, dc
<3

FIRST-BOBBLE ROW:
Same row is worked twice, using contrasting colors.
RS Row A: With background color, ch 3,
dc in each st to end of row, working (ch-1,

= with CC1, dc

Bobble D

Stitch Key

Bobble C

Bobble rows:

Stitch Key

= with CC7, dc
= with CC7, ch 1,
sk 1 st
= with CC2,
bobble

Tapestry single crochet (tapestry sc):


Work sc with one color yarn, carrying
other color yarn along top edge of previous
row and work sts over it, encasing it in sc
sts. To change color, work last yo of sc of
first color in next color.
Tapestry double crochet (tapestry
dc): Work dc with one color yarn, carrying
other color yarn along top edge of previous
row and work sts over it, encasing it in dc
sts. To change color, work last yo of dc of
first color in next color.
3-double crochet cluster (3-dc cl): [Yo,
insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up
lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3
times, yo and draw through all 4 lps on
hook.
Beginning bobble (beg bobble): Ch 3,
[yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull
up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook]
4 times, yo and draw through all 5 lps on
hook.
Bobble: [Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo
and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps
on hook] 5 times, yo and draw through all
6 lps on hook.

= with CC7,
tapestry dc
= with CC3
and glitter,
tapestry dc
= patt repeat

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Fresh Takes

sk 1 st) for st where bobble will be placed.


Drop background color, do not turn.
RS Row B (bobbles): Working in front
of ch-1 sps of RS Row A, join bobble
color in first skipped st of RS Row, work
beg bobble (see above), ch 1 for each dc
worked in RS Row A and work bobble (see
above) in each skipped st of RS Row A,
ending with sl st in last dc of RS Row A.
Drop bobble color, turn.

SECOND-BOBBLE ROW:
Same row is worked twice, using contrasting colors.
WS Row A: With background color, ch 3,
dc in each st or insert hook under ch-1 sp
of RS Row A and in bobble of RS Row B,
encasing ch-arch of RS Row B, working
(ch-1, sk 1 st) for st where next bobble will
be placed. Drop background color, do not
turn.
WS Row B: Working behind ch-1 sps of
WS Row A, ch 3, ch 1 for each dc worked
in WS Row A and work bobble in each
skipped st of WS Row A, ending with sl st
in last dc of WS Row A. Drop bobble color,
turn.

AFTER-BOBBLE ROW:
Next row: With background color, ch 3,
dc in each st or insert hook under ch-1 sp
of Row A and in bobble of Row B, encasing
ch-arch of Row B, across.

Bobble A patt (multiple of 6 sts):


Row 1: (WS) With background color, ch 3,
dc across, turn.
Row 2: (RS) Work first-bobble row (see
Stitch Guide) foll Row 2 of Bobble A chart,
rep 6-st patt 8 times across, turn.
Row 3: (WS) Work second-bobble row (see
Stitch Guide) foll Row 3 of chart, turn.
Row 4: (RS) With background color, work
after-bobble row (see Stitch Guide). Fasten
off.
Bobble B patt (multiple of 4 sts):
Row 1: (WS) With background color, ch 3,
dc across, turn.
Row 2: (RS) Work first-bobble row foll
Row 2 of Bobble B chart, rep 4-st patt 11
times, then working last 4 sts, turn.
Row 3: (WS) With background color, work
after-bobble row. Fasten off.
Bobble C patt (multiple of 6 sts):
Row 1: (RS) Work first-bobble row foll
Row 1 of Bobble C chart, working first 2
sts of chart, then rep 6-st patt 7 times, end
with working last 4 sts, turn.
Row 2: (WS) Work second-bobble row, foll
Row 2 of chart, turn.
Row 3: (RS) With background color, work
after-bobble row. Fasten off.

Row 2: (RS) Work first-bobble row foll


Row 2 of Bobble D chart, working first 3
sts of chart, then rep 4-st patt 10 times,
end with working last 5 sts, turn.
Row 3: (WS) Work second-bobble row, foll
Row 3 of chart, turn.
Row 4: (RS) With background color, work
after-bobble row. Fasten off.

Cluster st patt (even number of


sts):
Row 1: Ch 3, *ch 1, sk next st, 3-dc cl (see
above) in next st; rep from * to last st, dc in
last st. Fasten off.

Crossed st patt (even number of


sts):
Row 1: Ch 3, *sk next st, dc in next st, dc
in skipped st; rep from * to last st, dc in
last st. Fasten off.

Pattern
BAG
PANEL 1
Bottom:
With MC, ch 48.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch across,
turn48 sc.
Rows 29: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Bobble D patt (multiple of 4 sts):


Row 1: (WS) With background color, ch 3,
dc across, turn.

Helix Key
= CC4 tapestry sc
background

Swirl Key
= CC1 tapestry sc
background

= with CC6, surface sl st


= with CC1, surface sl st
= with CC2, surface sl st

= with CC6, surface


sl st

Helix
7
5
3
1

48 sts

Swirl
7
5
3
1

48 sts

66 Crochetscene

2015

Raspberry Toppings!
by Kristin Omdahl

get this
Marrakesh Motif

KIT

Raspberry Toppings

Sweet Clara Top

Pullover

In this delectable KIT


by Kristin Omdahl
You'll find
K 3 skeins of Kristins signature
Be So Sporty yarn in raspberry*
K 2 patterns for download (patterns above)
K 1 packet of her Wrapture yarn wash
*This is enough yarn to make one of
Kristin's two seamless crochet patterns
(both included in the downloadable eBook!)

Learn more about seamless crochet in


Kristin Omdahls book Seamless Crochet
with accompanying DVD or video download,
available separately.

shop.crochetme.com

Fresh Takes

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch across,


turn41 sc.
Rows 218: Ch 1, sc in each st across,
turn.
Fasten off.

Body:
Rows 1015: With CC4 and CC5, working
in tapestry sc (see Stitch Guide), ch 1,
work 6-st patt of Tapestry A chart 8 times
across, turn. Fasten off after last row.
Row 16: (RS) With CC1 and glitter held tog,
work cluster st patt (see Stitch Guide), turn.
Rows 1720: With CC7 (background) and
CC2 (bobbles) work bobble A patt (see
Stitch Guide), turn.
Row 21: (WS) With CC8 and glitter held
tog, work crossed st patt (see Stitch
Guide), turn.
Rows 2228: With CC4, carrying CC6, ch
1, tapestry sc across, turn. w
Row 29: (WS) With CC2, work crossed st
patt, turn.
Row 30: (RS) With CC6 and glitter held
tog, work crossed st patt, turn.
Rows 3133: with CC1 (background) and
CC7 (bobbles) work bobble B patt (see
Stitch Guide), turn.
Row 34: With CC5, work cluster st patt,
turn.
Row 35: With CC3, work cluster st patt,
turn.
Row 36: With CC4, work cluster st patt,
turn.
Row 37: With CC6 and glitter held tog,
work crossed st patt, turn.
Rows 3843: With MC, ch 1, sc across,
turn.
Row 44: With MC, work crossed st patt,
turn.
Rows 4549: With MC, ch 1, sc across,
turn.
Fasten off.

FINISHING
Panel 1 embroidery:
With RS facing and CC6, CC1 and CC2, embroider plain CC4 tapestry sc section using
surface crochet (see page 122), foll Helix
chart. Fasten off. With CC3 and glitter held
tog, surface crochet one horizontal line
across Row 20, and with CC2 and glitter
held tog across Row 33. Fasten off.

Panel 2 embroidery:
Rows 2932: With CC2 (background), CC4
and CC6 (bobbles), work bobble D patt (see
Stitch Guide), turn.
Row 33: With CC3 and glitter held tog,
work crossed st patt, turn.
Row 34: With CC1 and glitter held tog,
work crossed st patt, turn.
Row 35: With CC7, work crossed st patt,
turn.
Rows 3641: With MC, ch 1, sc across,
turn.
Row 42: With MC, work crossed st patt,
turn.
Rows 4347: Ch 1, sc across. Fasten off.

With RS facing and CC6 and glitter held


tog, embroider plain CC1 tapestry sc section using surface crochet, foll Swirl chart.
Fasten off. With CC2 and glitter held tog,
surface crochet one horizontal line across
Row 12, with CC3 and glitter held tog
across Row 29, and with CC1 and glitter
held tog across Row 32. Fasten off.

SIDE PANEL (MAKE 2)


With MC, ch 41.

PANEL 2
Bottom:
With MC, ch 48.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch across,
turn48 sc.
Rows 29: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Body:
Rows 1012: With MC (background) and
CC1 (bobbles), work bobble C patt (see
Stitch Guide), turn.
Row 13: (WS) With CC4 work crossed st
patt, turn.
Rows 1416: With CC7, CC3 and glitter
held tog, working in tapestry dc (see Stitch
Guide), ch 3, work 6-st patt of Tapestry B
chart 8 times across, turn. Fasten off after
last row.
Row 17: (WS) With CC2, work crossed st
patt, turn.
Rows 1825: With CC1, carrying CC6, ch
1, tapestry sc across, turn.
Row 26: (RS) With CC4, work cluster st
patt, turn.
Row 27: With CC6 and glitter held tog,
work cluster st patt, turn.
Row 28: (RS) With CC7, work cluster st
patt, turn.

68 Crochetscene

2015

Assembly:
Weave in ends. Hold panel 1 and panel 2
with WS tog, with MC threaded on needle,
whipstitch bottom of panels tog. Insert
side panel bet main panels and align with
bottom and side edges. Pin in place. With
WS of side panel and main panel tog, RS
of main panel facing, join MC at top right
edge where side panel beg, inserting hook
through both layers. Seam side panel to
main panels and bottom by working 1
row of sc around the edge, inserting hook
through both layers. Fasten off. Rep for
other side panel. Fold edging of panel 1
along crossed st patt row to WS, insert
smaller strip of corrugated plastic, and
whipstitch (see Glossary) edge to WS of
bag. Rep for other panel top edging. Make
holes in ends of leather handles. Center
ends along top edging and sew them to
edging. Foll package directions to attach
magnetic snap to center of inside top
edgings. Place larger strip of corrugated
plastic in bottom of bag. Weave in ends.

out),*4 dc in next dc4tog, ch 1, dc in next dc,


ch 1; rep from * to last dc4tog, 4 dc in next
dc4tog, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 5, *dc4tog over next 4 dc, ch 3,
dc in next dc, ch 2; rep from * to last 4-dc
group, dc4tog over next 4 dc, ch 3, dc in
3rd ch of tch, turn.
Rep Rows 34 for patt.

ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1] 13 (14, 14, 15, 15,


16) times, 4 dc in next dc4tog, ch 1, dc in
next dc, mark next dc4tog, turn leaving rem
sts unworked14 (15, 15, 16, 16, 17) reps.
Work 13 rows even across these 14 (15, 15,
16, 16, 17) reps only, then enlarge lp and
remove hook.

Pattern
SWEATER
Right sleeve:

BUBBLES SWEATER
Jill Wright

With A, ch 54 (68, 68, 82, 82, 96).


Rows 12: Work Rows 12 of bubble patt
(see Stitch Guide)7 (9, 9, 11, 11, 13) reps.
Rows 34: Change to B; work Rows 34 of
bubble patt.
Rows 520 (20, 18, 18, 16, 16): Work
even in bubble patt, changing color every
2 rows.
Cont to change color every 2 rows as you
work rest of sweater.

Shape underarm:

PLUS SIZE
Rowan Cotton Glac

Getting Started
Finished Size 34 (3812, 43, 4712, 52, 5612)"
bust circumference. Garment shown
measures 3812", modeled with 5" ease.
Yarn Rowan Cotton Glac (distributed by
Westminster Fibers) (100% cotton; 125 yd
[115 m]/1 oz [50 g];
): #749 sky (A),
5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) balls; #864 greengage (B),
4 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) balls.
Hook Size F/5 (3.75 mm). Adjust hook size
if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions St markers (m); yarn needle.
Gauge 14 sts (2 reps) = 3" and 8 rows =
412" in bubble patt.

Row 1: (RS) Ch 4, dc in first dc, ch 1, 4 dc


in first dc4tog, work in patt to last dc4tog,
4 dc in last dc4tog, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in
3rd ch of tch, turn.
Row 2: Ch 5, sk ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch
2, dc4tog over next 4 dc, work in patt to
last 4-dc group, dc4tog over next 4 dc, ch
3, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in 3rd ch of tch,
turn.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 3 dc in first
dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, work in patt to last
dc4tog, 4 dc in last dc4tog, ch 1, dc in next
dc, ch 1, 4 dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 5, dc4tog over first 4 dc, work
in patt to last 4 sts, dc4tog over last 4 sts
(including top of tch), ch 3, dc in last st
worked, turn9 (11, 11, 13, 13, 15) reps.
Rows 512: Rep last 4 rows 2 times13
(15, 15, 17, 17, 19) reps.

Notes

Body:

Sweater is worked sideways in one


piece, from one sleeve cuff to the other,
separating for the neck opening, and
rejoining afterward. Change color every 2
rows for stripes.

Remove hook from lp on hook and enlarge


this lp to keep it from raveling.
Join new yarn with a sl st at other end of
last row, and ch 56 for front foundation.
Fasten off.
Place hook back into enlarged lp and
tug it back down to size. Ch 60 for back
foundation.
Next row: (RS) 4 dc in 9th ch from hook,
ch 1, sk 2 ch, [dc in next ch, ch 1, sk 3 ch,
4 dc in next ch, ch 1, sk 2 ch] 7 times, dc
in next dc, work in patt to last dc4tog, 4 dc
in last dc4tog, ch 1, dc in 3rd of tch, [ch 1,
sk 3 ch, 4 dc in next ch, ch 1, sk 2 ch, dc in
next ch] 8 times, turn29 (31, 31, 33, 33,
35) reps.
Work 7 (9, 11, 13, 15, 17) rows even in
bubble patt.

Stitch Guide
Bubble patt (multiple of 7 sts + 1):
Ch 33 for gauge swatch.
Row 1: (RS) 4 dc in 9th ch from hook (8
skipped ch count as 4 foundation ch and dc
and ch 1), ch 1, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch, *ch
1, sk 3 ch, 4 dc in next ch, ch 1, sk 2 ch, dc
in next ch; rep from * across, turn.
Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2
throughout), *dc4tog (see Glossary) over
next 4 dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2; rep
from * to last 4-dc group, dc4tog over next
4 dc, ch 3, dc in 7th of 8 skipped ch at beg
of prev row, turn.
Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1 through-

Divide for neck:


BACK:
Next row: (RS) Ch 4, [4 dc in next dc4tog,

FRONT:
With RS facing, sk marked dc4tog of last
complete row and join new yarn with a sl st
in next dc.
Next row: (RS) Ch 4, *4 dc in next dc4tog,
ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * to last
dc4tog, 4 dc in next dc4tog, ch 1, dc in 3rd
ch of tch, turn14 (15, 15, 16, 16, 17) reps.
Work 13 rows even across these 14 (15,
15, 16, 16, 17) reps only; do not turn at end
of last row, ch 6, sl st in last dc of back.
Fasten off.

Rejoin back and front:


Beg at enlarged lp on back section, place
hook back into lp and tug it back down to
size.
Joining row: (RS) Work across back in
patt as est to center ch-6, ch 1, 4 dc in 4th
ch of center ch-6, ch 1, dc in next dc (first
dc of front), work in patt across, turn29
(31, 31, 33, 33, 35) reps.
Work 7 (9, 11, 13, 15, 17) rows even in
bubble patt. Fasten off.

Shape underarm:
With RS facing, sk 8 dc4tog and join yarn
with a sl st in next dc.
Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, 4 dc in next dc4tog,
work in patt to last 9 dc4tog, 4 dc in next
dc4tog, dc in next dc, turn leaving rem
sts unworked13 (15, 15, 17, 17, 19) 4-dc
groups across.
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as st), dc4tog
over 4 dc in first 4-dc group, work in patt to
last 4-dc group, dc4tog over last 4 dc, turn.
Row 3: Ch 4, sk first dc4tog, dc in next dc,
work in patt to last dc4tog, ch 1, dc in last
dc4tog, turn.
Row 4: Ch 2, sk first ch-1 sp, dc in next
dc, work in patt to last dc, dc2tog (see
Glossary) over last dc and 3rd ch of tch,
turn11 (13, 13, 15, 15, 17) reps.
Row 5: Ch 3, 4 dc in next dc4tog, work in
patt to last dc4tog, 4 dc in next dc4tog, dc
in last dc, turn.
Crochetscene

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69

Fresh Takes

Rows 612: Rep Rows 25, then rep Rows


247 (9, 9, 11, 11, 13) reps.

Left sleeve:
Work 20 (20, 18, 18, 16, 16) rows even in
bubble patt. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Block piece to schematic measurements.
Sew side and sleeve seams.
With A, work 1 rnd of sc around neck edge,
bottom edge, and each sleeve cuff.
Weave in ends.

2134 (2314, 2314, 2434, 2434, 2614)"


55 (59, 59, 63, 63, 66.5) cm

8"
20.5 cm

134"
4.5 cm

BACK

FRONT

Reduced Bubble Pattern


4

repeat

17 (1914, 2112,
2334, 26, 2814)"
43 (49, 54.5, 60.5,
66, 72) cm

LEFT
SLEEVE

634"
17 cm

2
1114 (1114, 1014,
1014, 9, 9)"
28.5 (28.5, 26, 26,
23, 23) cm

RIGHT
SLEEVE
1034 (1334, 1334,
1634, 1634, 1934)"
27.5 (35, 35, 42.5,
42.5, 50) cm

12"
30.5 cm
412"
11.5 cm

7-st patt rep

Underarm Decreases

repeat

2
repeat

repeat

Underarm Increases
repeat

repeat

front foundation

back foundation

4
repeat

Stitch Key

= slip stitch (sl st)


= chain (ch)
1
= double crochet
(dc)
= dc4tog

70 Crochetscene

2015

craftdaily.com

1
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G TH
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Book Excerpt

Sienna Top
Mimi Alelis

72 Crochetscene

2015

Excerpt from
It Girl Crochet
By Sharon Zientara

This airy top is perfect for layering


over a shirt or bikini top. The simple
shaping and loose fit, bottom-up
construction in one piece, and
interesting stitch pattern make this
a fun and easy project to crochet.
Stitch up several in different colors
or just add length to create a tunic
or even a swingy dress.

Getting Started
Finished Size 33 (36, 39)" (84 [91, 99] cm) bust circumference.
Shown in size 33"(84 cm).
Yarn Sportweight (#2 Fine). Shown here: Louet North America
Euroflax Sport (100% wet spun long linen; 650yd [594m]/8 oz
[225g]): #18.2464cedarwood, 1 (1, 2) cones.
Hook Size D/3 (3mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain
correct gauge.
Notions Stitch markers (m); yarn needle.
Gauge 22sts and 8 rows = 4" (10cm) in pattern stitch.

Note
Construction starts at the bottom, is worked in joined rounds,
and then is separated for front and back starting at the armhole.
Front and back shoulder will be joined with crochet on the last row.

Stitch Guide
3-tr Cluster (3-tr cl): [Yo twice, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up
a lp, (yo, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) twice] 3 times, yo, draw
yarn through 4 loops on hook.
4-tr Cluster (4-tr cl): [Yo twice, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up

6"
16.5 cm

6 (7, 8)"
16.5 (18.5, 20.5) cm

3"
7.5 cm

5"
14 cm

FRONT
AND
BACK
6 (6, 8)"
16.5 (16.5, 21.5) cm

16 (18, 19)"
42 (45.5, 49.5) cm

Interweave/F+W 2014

GET THE
BOOK
bit.ly/it-girl
-crochet

a lp, (yo, draw yarn through 2 lps on hook) twice] 4 times, yo, draw
yarn through 5 loops on hook.

Stitch Pattern in Rnds(Pattin Rnds)


Ch a multiple of 4, join with sl st in the first ch.
Rnd1 (RS): Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each ch around,
join with sl st in first hdc.
Rnd2 (RS): Ch 4, 3-tr cl over next 3 hdc, *ch5, 4-tr cl over next 4
hdc; rep from * around, ending with ch2, dc on top of first 3-tr cl
instead of last ch-5sp, turn46 (50, 54) cl.
Rnd3 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sp, (ch5, sc) in each ch-5 loop
around, ending with ch2, dc on top of first sc instead of last
ch-5sp, turn.
Rnd4 (RS): Ch 4 (counts as tr here and throughout), 3tr in top of
dc of last sp, 4dc in center ch of each ch-5 loop around, join with sl
st in top of beg ch-4, turn.
Rnd5 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in each tr around, turn.
Rep Rnds 25 for Patt in Rnds.

Stitch Pattern in Rows(Patt in Rows)


Ch a multiple of 4 plus 3.
Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and on each ch across, turn.
Row 2 (RS): Ch 6 (counts as tr, ch2 here and throughout), 4-tr cl
over next 4 hdc, *ch5, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc; rep from * across to
last st, ch2, tr in last st, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first tr, (ch5, sc) in each ch-5 loop across to last
ch-5sp, ch5, sc in 4th ch of beg ch-6, turn.
Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as tr here and throughout), 4 tr in center ch of
each ch-5 loop across, tr in the last st, turn.
Row 5: Ch 1, hdc in each tr across, hdc on top of beg ch-4, turn.
Rep Rows 25 for Patt in Rows.

Pattern
BODY
Ch 184 (200, 216), join with sl st in the first ch.
Rnd1 (RS): Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each ch around,
join with sl st in first hdc184 (200, 216) hdc.

Work even in Patt in rnds for 9 (9, 13) more rnds.


Rnd11 (15) (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sp, (ch5, sc) in each ch-5 loop
around, ending with ch5, join with sl st in first sc, turn46 (50,
54) ch-5sps. Place marker (m) on this st to mark the middle of
underarm. Place another m on the sc at the opposite side of this
row to mark the middle of the other underarm.
Rnd12 (16) (inc row): Sl st in each of next 2ch, ch4, 3 tr in the

Crochetscene

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73

Book Excerpt

Inspiration: This tops namesake is


Sienna Miller, an English actress
and fashion icon, whose bohemian
style landed her on the cover of
Vogue and the title girl of the
year in 2004. She and her sister
started a clothing line inspired by
boho chic, describing a Bohemian
as someone who has the ability to
appreciate beauty on a deep level,
is a profound romantic, doesnt
know any limits, whose world is
their own creation, rather than
living in a box. This top reminded
me of that spirit and of something
Sienna might wear or create for her
ownline.
Stitch key

= chain (ch)
= treble crochet (tr)

= slip st (sl st)


= single crochet (sc)
= half double
crochet (hdc)
= double crochet (dc)

= 3-tr cluster (3-tr cl)

same st, sk next ch, 4 tr in next ch (inc made), 4dc in center ch of


each of next 21 (23, 25) ch-5 loops, [4 tr in 2nd ch of next loop, sk
next ch, 4 tr in next ch] twice, 4dc in center ch of each of next 21
(23, 25) ch-5 loops, 4 tr in 2nd ch of next loop, sk next ch, 4 tr in
next ch, sl st in top of beg ch-4, turn200 (216, 232) tr.
Rnd13 (17): Work Rnd5 of Patt in Rnds. Do not fasten off.
Note: Work will now be separated for Front and Back and will be
worked in rows.

FRONT
Row 1: Ch 6 (counts as tr, ch2), starting in same hdc, 4-tr cl over

= 4-tr cluster (4-tr cl)

first 4 hdc, *ch5, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc; rep from * 23 (25, 27)
times, ch2, tr in same hdc as last tr of cl, turn25 (27, 29) cl.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first tr, (ch5, sc) in each ch-5 loop across to last

REPEAT

REPEAT

3
2

2
1
PATTERN WORKED IN ROWS

74 Crochetscene

2015

1
PATTERN WORKED IN ROUNDS

ch-5sp, ch5, sc in 4th ch of beg ch-6, turn25 (27, 29) ch-5sps.


Row 3: Ch 4, 3 tr in first sc (inc made), 4 tr in center ch of each
ch-5 loop across, 4 tr in the last st, turn108 (116, 124) tr.
Row 4: Ch 1, hdc in each tr across, hdc on top of beg ch-4,
turn108 (116, 124) hdc.
Starting with Row 2, work even in patt in rows for 6 rows, ending
with Row 3 of patt.

Shape Front Neck


Row 11: Ch 4, 4 tr in center ch of each of next 10 (11, 12) ch-5sps,
ch4, 4 hdc in each of next 7ch-5sps, ch4, 4 tr in center ch of each
of next 10 (11, 12) ch-5sps, tr in the last sc, turn.
Note: Work will now be separate for Right Front and Left Front up
to shoulder.

Right Front
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1 (does not count as a st),hdc in each of first 41
(45, 49) tr, turn, leaving rem sts unworked.

Row 2: Ch 4, 3-tr cl over next 3 hdc, *ch5, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc;
rep from * across, ch2, tr in the last st, turn10 (11, 12) cl.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the same st, (ch5, sc) in each of next 9 (10, 11)
ch-5sps, turn9 (10, 11) ch-5sps.
Row 4: Ch 4 (does not count as a st), 4 tr in the center ch of each
ch-5 loop across, tr in the last sc, turn37 (41, 45) tr.
Row 5: Ch 1, hdc in each tr across, do not work in tch, turn37
(41, 45) hdc.
Row 6: Ch 4, 3-tr cl over next 3 hdc, *ch5, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc;
rep from * across, ch2, tr in the last st9 (10, 11) cl. Fasten off.

Left Front
Row 1: With WS facing, sk center 28 hdc at neck, join yarn in
first tr on Left Front, ch1,hdc in same st, hdc in each st across,
turn41 (45, 49) hdc.
Row 2: Ch 6(counts as tr, ch2), 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc, *ch5, 4-tr
cl over next 4 hdc; rep from * across, turn10 (11, 12) cl.
Row 3: Sl st in next 2ch, ch1, sc in next ch, (ch5, sc) in each
ch-5sp across, ending with ch5, sc on top of beg ch-4, turn9 (10,
11) ch-5sps.
Row 4: Ch 4 (does not count as a st), 4 tr in center ch of each
ch-5sp across, tr in the last sc, turn37 (41, 45) tr.
Row 5: Ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc in each tr across, turn37 (41,
45) hdc.
Row 6: Ch 6, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc, *ch5, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc;
rep from * across9 (10, 11) cl. Fasten off.

BACK
Shape Back Neck
Row 11: With RS facing, join yarn in marked st at right underarm,
ch4, 4 tr in center ch of each of next 10 (11, 12) ch-5sps, ch4, 4
hdc in each of next 7ch-5sps, ch4, 4 tr in center ch of each of next
10 (11, 12) ch-5sps, tr in the last sc, turn.
Note: Work will now be separate for Left Back and Right Back up
to shoulder.

Left Back
Work same as Right Front through Row 5.
Row 6: Ch 6, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc, *ch2, sc in corresponding
ch-5sp on Right Front shoulder, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc; rep from *
across9 (10, 11) cl. Fasten off.

Right Back
Work same as Left Front through Row 5.
Row 6: Ch 6, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc, *ch2, sc in corresponding
ch-5sp on Left Front shoulder, 4-tr cl over next 4 hdc; rep from *
across9 (10, 11) cl. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block.

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75

Feature | DIY Mesh Bags

Crochet your bag


your way
Jennifer E. Ryan

76 Crochetscene

2015

We love a mesh market bag. Its


just the right tool for toting so many
things, from fresh vegetables to
yarn (of course!) to vacation miscellany. But sometimes, its not quite
the right size, or the handles require
more hands than we have.

Here we present patterns for three totes: a tote with shoulder straps for hands-free toting, a beach tote styled after the
classic market tote, and a water bottle bag with cross-body
strap. The market tote is large enough to haul a bundle of
stuff for a day trip. The backpack tote is just the right size
for a book and snack, leaving your hands free as you amble
about. The water bottle cozy keeps your beverage nearby, and
it stretches to accommodate a range of sizes. All the bags
share a mesh stitch pattern, which is a bit fancier than your
average mesh stitch pattern. Each bag is a different size, and
if youre not quite content with the sizes given, each pattern
includes directions for altering the size to suit you.
You can customize the bags by changing the colors, either the
main color or the contrasting colors. You can add crocheted
embellishmentssuch as the butterfly on the water bottle
cozyor other adornments, including beads or a pendant, as
on the totes. You could also add a fabric lining in a complementary solid or patterned fabric.

Pattern
Base:
With A, ch 42.
Rnd 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (beg ch 2 does not count as st),
hdc in each ch across to last ch, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in last ch, ch 1,
rotate piece to work down opposite side of beg ch, (hdc, ch 1, hdc)
in first ch, hdc in each ch across to last ch, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in last
st, ch 1, (hdc, ch 1) in first st of rnd, sl st in first hdc to join84 hdc,
6 ch-1 sps.
Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, *hdc to last hdc before first ch-1
sp, 2 hdc in next st, [hdc in next ch-1 sp, hdc in next st] 2 times,
hdc in next ch-1 sp**, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * to **, sl st in
first hdc to join94 hdc.
Rnd 3: Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, *hdc in next 40 sts, 2 hdc in next
st, hdc in next 4 sts**, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * to **, sl st in
first hdc to join98 hdc.
Rnd 4: Ch 2, hdc blo in each st around, sl st in first hdc to join.

Body:
Crochet your bag your way!

......................................................................
BACKPACK TOTE
Jennifer E. Ryan

1 2 3 4
Getting Started
Finished Size 12" wide and 1312" long, laying flat; straps: 1" wide
and 22" long.

Yarn Omega Sinfonia (distributed by Creative Yarn Source)


(100% cotton; 218 yd [199 m]/3 oz [100 g];
): #869 gold (A);
#886 gray (B), 1 skein each.
Hook Size H/8 (5mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain
correct gauge.
Notions Yarn needle; 2 beads (with large holes); 13 yd cotton
lining fabric (optional).
Gauge Two 4-dc groups and ch-5 sps and 10 rows = 4" in patt.

Notes
To make larger bag, use a larger crochet hook and/or a double
strand of yarn.

Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, [ch 3, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st,


ch 3, sk next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts] 11 times, ch 3, sk next 2 sts,
sc in next st, ch 3, sk next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, ch 3,
sk next st, sc in next st, ch 3, sk next st, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to
join39 dc, 13 sc.
Rnd 6: Sl st in next 2 sts, *sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5; rep from *
around, ending with ch 3, hdc in first sc to join26 ch-5 sps.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc around post of hdc, *ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-5 sp,
ch 3**, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * around, ending last rep
at **, sl st in first sc to join52 dc, 13 sc.
Rnd 8: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same ch-3 sp, ch 5, *sc in
next ch-3 sp, ch 5; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join26
ch-5 sps.
Rnd 9: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same ch-5 sp, *ch 3, 4 dc in
next ch-5 sp, ch 3**, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in first sc to join52 dc, 13 sc.
Rnds 1023: Rep Rnds 89 seven times.
Rnd 24: Rep Rnd 8.
Rnd 25: Sl st in next 2 ch, sl st in ch-5 sp, ch 2, 3 hdc in same
ch-5 sp, 4 hdc in each ch-5 sp around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to
join104 hdc.
Rnds 2627: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st in first hdc to join.
Rnd 28: Ch 2, [hdc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sk next st] 6 times; hdc in
next 5 sts, ch 4, sk next 4 sts; rep from [ to ] 9 times, hdc in next

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Feature | DIY Mesh Bags

4 sts, ch 1, sk last hdc, sl st in first hdc to join84 hdc.


Rnd 29: Ch 2, hdc in each st and each ch-1 sp around, work 4
hdc in ch-4 sps104 hdc.
Rnd 30: Rep Rnd 26. Fasten off.

eyelets created in Rnd 28 so that both ends come out of largest


eyelet (made with ch-4) in center front. Thread bead on each end
of drawstring and tie an overhand knot on end.

HANDLES (MAKE 2)
With A, ch 103.
Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, rotate work
90 degrees and work 2 sc in post of last dc, ch 3, working down
other side of beg ch, dc in each ch across, 2 sc in post of last dc,
sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off.

DRAWSTRING
With 2 strands of B, ch 100. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Steam block bag and handles. Let dry completely. Using photo
as a guide, sew handles to both sides of back of bag (on top and
bottom so bag can be worn as a backpack). Largest drawstring
hole is at center front.

Optional Lining:
Cut fabric to 24" width and 14" length (use mesh bag as a
template). Fold fabric in half and sew 112" from edge to form a
14" tall tube. Flatten tube so that seam just made is in center of
back. Fold over seam selvedge and top, sew down (no raw edges
are showing). Fold over bottom opening 2 times and sew up (no
raw edges showing). Press over about 12" along top opening 2
times. Insert lining in mesh bag and hand-sew top folded edge
to inside of top just below drawstring. Weave drawstring through

BEACH TOTE
Jennifer E. Ryan

1 2 3 4
Getting Started
Finished Size 1212" wide and 16" tall; 9" bottom diameter;
handle: 114" wide and 25" long.

Yarn Omega Sinfonia (distributed by Creative Yarn Source)


(100% cotton; 218 yd [199 m]/3 oz [100 g];
): #886 gray (A),
2 skeins; #864 lt rose (B), 1 skein.
Hook Sizes H/8 (5 mm) and J/10 (6 mm). Adjust hook size if
necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions Yarn needle; large jewelry pendant for embellishment.
Gauge Rnds 15 = 412" diameter with smaller hook.

Notes
To make bottom larger, add more rnds after Rnd 10, inc 12 sts
evenly spaced around each rnd, then cont with Rnd 11 of patt.
To make taller, after Rnd 29, cont to rep Rnds 1415 to desired
height, then cont with Rnd 30 of patt.

Backpack Tote
< 11

Stitch Key
= slip stitch (sl st)

rep for patt

< 10

= chain (ch)

<9

= single crochet (sc)


<8
<7
<6
<5
<4

78 Crochetscene

2015

= half double crochet


(hdc)
= double crochet (dc)

Stitch Guide

Body:

Join with sc (sc-join): Place slip knot on hook, insert hook in


indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and draw through both lps on
hook.

Change to larger hook.


Rnd 11: Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, *ch 3, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st,
ch 3, sk next 2 sts**, dc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ending
last rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join45 dc, 15 sc.
Rnd 12: Sl st in next 3 dc, sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same
sp, *ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp; rep from * around, ch 3, dc in first sc
to join30 ch-5 sps.
Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc around post of ending dc of previous rnd, *ch 3,
4 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3**, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * around,
ending last rep at **, sl st in first sc to join60 dc, 14 sc.
Rnd 14: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same ch-3 sp, ch 5, *sc in
next ch-3 sp, ch 5; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join30
ch-5 sps.
Rnd 15: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same ch-5 sp, *ch 3, 4 dc
in next ch-5 sp, ch 3**, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * around,
ending last rep at **, sl st in first sc to join60 dc, 15 sc.
Rnds 1629: Rep Rnds 1415 seven times.
Rnd 30: Rep Rnd 14.
Change to smaller hook.
Rnd 31: Sl st in next ch, ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-5 sp, 3 dc in each
ch-5 sp around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join90 dc.
Rnd 32: Ch 3, dc around, sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 33: Rep Rnd 32. Fasten off.
Rnd 34: Join B with sc in any dc, sc in each dc around, sl st in
first sc to join90 sc.
Rnds 3536: Rep Rnd 34. Fasten off at end of Rnd 36.
Rnd 37: Join A with sl st in any sc, ch 3, dc around, sl st in top of
beg ch-3 to join.
Rnds 3839: Rep Rnd 32.
Rnd 40: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Pattern
BAG
Base:
With A and smaller hook, make adjustable ring (see Glossary).
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 11 dc in ring, sl st in top
of beg ch-3 to join12 dc.
Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of
beg ch-3 to join24 dc.
Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; rep
from * around, ending with dc in last st, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to
join36 dc.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep
from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join48 dc.
Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep
from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join60 dc.
Rnd 6: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep
from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join72 dc.
Rnd 7: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep
from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join84 dc.
Rnd 8: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep
from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join96 dc.
Rnd 9: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 7 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep
from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join108 dc.
Rnd 10: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep
from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join120 dc.

HANDLE
With smaller hook and A, ch 93.
Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, turn90
dc. Fasten off.
Rotate to work down other side of beg ch.
Row 2: Join yarn with sl st in first ch, ch 3, dc in next ch and in
each ch across. Fasten off.

Edging:
Sc-join (see Stitch Guide) B in first dc on one side of handle, *sc
in next st and in each st across, 3 sc in corner, sc around posts of
dc row-ends, 3 sc in corner; rep from *. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Steam block bag and handle. Let dry completely. With yarn
needle and A, sew handle ends to inside top of bag; place last 2"

Beach Tote

rep for patt

< 17
< 16
< 15
< 14
< 13

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Feature | DIY Mesh Bags

of each handle end inside tote, sewing around all edges to secure
handle. Sew jewelry pendant to center front of tote band.

in ring, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join10 dc.


Rnd 2: Ch 4, *dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1; rep
from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join20 dc.
Rnd 3: Ch 4, *dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd
ch of beg ch-4 to join.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, *dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc; rep from * around,
sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join40 dc. Fasten off.

Body:

WATER BOTTLE COZY


Jennifer E. Ryan

1 2 3 4
Getting Started
Finished Size 734" tall and 10" around; 312" bottom diameter;

Rnd 5: Join B with sl st in any dc, ch 3, 2 dc in next st, *ch 1, sk


next dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc**, 2 dc in each of next 2
dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, dc in same st as beg
ch-3, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join32 dc, 8 sc.
Rnd 6: Sl st in next 3 sts, *[sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 4] 2 times, sk
next 4 dc; rep from * around, ending with ch 2, hdc in first sc to
join16 ch-4 sps.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 1, 4 dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 1, *sc in
next ch-4 sp, ch 1, 4 dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 1; rep from * around, sl
st in first sc to join32 dc, 8 sc.
Rnd 8: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 4, *sc in
next ch-1 sp, ch 4; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join16
ch-4 sps.
Rnd 9: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 1, *4 dc in next
ch-4 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 1; rep from * around, 4 dc in
last ch-4 sp, sl st in first sc to join.
Rep Rnds 89 until piece measures 6", or until as tall as water
bottle, ending with Rnd 8.
Next Rnd: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each
ch-4 sp around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join32 dc. Fasten off.
Next Rnd: Join A with sl st in any st, ch 3, dc around, sl st in first
dc to join.
Last Rnd: Ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

strap: 44" long.

HANDLE

Yarn Omega Sinfonia (distributed by Creative Yarn Source)

With A, ch 180.
Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across178 dc.
Rotate work 90 degrees, work 2 sc around post of last dc made,
working down other side of beg ch, sl st in first ch, ch 3, dc in
next ch and in each ch across, rotate work 90 degrees, work
2 sc around post of last dc, work 2 sc in beg ch 3, sl st in next dc.
Fasten off.

(100% cotton; 218 yd [199 m]/3 oz [100 g];


): #886 gray (A);
#864 lt rose (B); #869 gold (C), 1 skein each.
Hook Size G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain
correct gauge.
Notions Yarn needle.
Gauge Rnds 13 = 234" diameter.

BUTTERFLY

Notes
Cozy is worked in the rnd.
To make it wider, work one more rnd of dc after Rnd 3, inc 16 sts
evenly around, then cont with Rnd 4.

Pattern
BAG
Base:
With A, ch 5, sl st in first ch to form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1 throughout), (dc, ch 1) 9 times

< 11

rep for patt

FINISHING
Steam block cozy over glass or metal container a little larger
than water bottle. Steam block handle. Let both dry completely.
With matching yarn, sew ends of handle to inside top of cozy,
allowing each handle end to overlap top edge by about 1", securing around all 4 edges of handle-end. Sew butterfly to front with
matching yarn. Weave in ends.

Water Bottle Cozy

< 10
<9
<8
<7
<6
<5
<4

80 Crochetscene

With C, ch 5.
Row 1: Sc in bottom ridge lp of 2nd ch from hook and in each ch
across4 sc.
Row 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 3 tr in next st, ch 3, sl st in same st,
sl st in next st, ch 4, tr in same st, 3 dtr (see Glossary) in next st,
ch 4, sl st in same st, ch 1, working down other side of beg ch,
sl st in first sc, ch 4, 3 dtr in same st, ch 4, sl st in same st, sl st
in next st, ch 3, 3 tr in same st, dc in next st, ch 3, sl st in same st.
Fasten off.

2015

JENNIFER E. RYAN loves to put crochet to use


creating things that are both beautiful and practical.
She also loves to sing, dance, spend time outdoors,
photograph wildlife, and go for bike rides. You can find
her online at www.celticknotcrochet.blogspot.com.

Love
Mesh?
Check out bit.ly/mesh-project-collection

Dolores Top

Crochet Market Bags video

Curtain Call

Network Shawlet
te

Minty Fresh Poncho

Juanita Top

Tango Tunic

Seashell Tote

Radical Top

Everyday Crochet

Crocheting
it Forward
Kathryn Vercillo

Helen learned to crochet when she was about eight years old.
Her teacher was her paternal grandmother, whom she calls an
amazing lady.
Grandma was fiercely intelligent and remained so right to the
endreading the newspaper, keeping herself informed, and
completing challenging crossword puzzles, Helen says. Every
year until the age of ninety she made a homemade Christmas cake
and pudding as well as knitted toys and jumpers (as sweaters are
called in England) for each of the kids in the family.
And a big family it was. Helens grandmother raised seven sons
and one daughter. The Christmas crafting began in January and
continued all year long. She lived to the age of 101.

STRENGTH IN CROCHET
The first thing Helen crocheted was a scarf, followed by a baby
blanket. She had trouble counting the stitches correctly, so the
blanket curved in at the middle; she went back in later and filled it
in freeform. It must have looked dreadful, she says, but I was so
proud of it!
Helen says she also remembers creating a skirt and top
sometime in the early 1980s that she eventually got rid of, although
she now wishes she had kept them.
Helen tried to teach her own daughter to crochet but says, We
both agree that its perhaps not her thing. Still, Helen found
crochet to be a comfort throughout her parenting. Ive used craft
over many years as a way to relax and to feel grounded and
centered, she says. My son, who is now twenty-eight, was
diagnosed with autism when he was six. For many years, his
behavior was extremely challenging to deal with. Being able to put
the hard stuff into a box and focus on creativity for a while helped
me to process difficult situations and emotions. After concentrat82 Crochetscene

2015

Photo courtesy of Helen Wya

tt

Helen Wyatt learned to


crochet when she was a
young child and now
enjoys crocheting and
creating other craft
items for other people. Crochet is a
welcome distraction during tough
times, she says, and it brings something beautiful and useful into her
home in South Yorkshire, England,
and into the homes of those she loves.

Ive used craft over many years as a


way to relax and to feel grounded
and centered.
ing on crochet for a time, she says, she could go back to deal with
the difficult things when she was feeling stronger.

A CRAFTY LIFE
Helen has done many different crafts over the years. She
created a collection of lavender-and-lace cross-stitch angels,
which she says was the most meditative of her projects. She also
sewed clothes for her kids when they were small, crafted rag dolls
and rag rugs, assembled and dressed china dolls, and slowly
completed a dolls house. These days she enjoys creating fabulous
patchwork throws by felting.
Helen adds that she also cooks. In addition to crafting and
cooking, she goes to the gym and enjoys walking, spending time
with her family and dog, and reading books, especially science
fiction and fantasy, which allow her to disappear into an alternative
world every now and then.

FAVORITE PROJECTS
Although Helen knits, she prefers the control and speed of
crochet and says, Im also better at crochet, so it allows more
freestyle expression. She really loves to be creative in her crochet
work and doesnt like to follow patterns. Instead, shell learn a
technique well enough to be able to reinterpret it. She loves to play
with different yarns and textures.

And she has a lot of yarn to play with. The gran of a friend of my
daughter passed away, and when her family cleared out her house,
they brought me two bags of yarn, she says. The girl was expecting
a baby, so I made a pram blanket for them as a thank-you, using a
lovely, fluffy cream yarn that was in one of the bags. Two weeks later
they returnedwith ten big bags of yarn! Some of it is very thinon
cones and meant for machine knittingso I crochet with several
strands held together and make things like scarves and blankets.

CRAFTING FOR OTHERS

Photos courtesy of

Helen Wyatt

Although she keeps many of her craft


items in her own home, Helen really loves to
crochet for others. I love to be able to give
gifts that Ive made, she says. I often feel
that I dont have enough time for friends and
family. I might not be able to visit with them
during my spare timewhich often seems to
come at ten at nightbut I can sit and make
something for them.
Sometimes she knows who a project will be for
when she starts it, but often she just creates the
item, banks it in the stash, and waits for the right
person and time to appear to give it away. She also
donates some gifts to charity, saying she wants to
pay it forward.

KATHRYN VERCILLO is the author of


Crochet Saved My Life. You can find her online
at www.crochetconcupiscence.com.

Get this ultimate


crocheters
go-to resource!
Great ffor new and experienced crocheters
alike, Crochet Stitch Dictionary offers 200
stitches with detailed written and charted
instructions. This essential book presents 8
color-coded stitch sections, covering all the
must-know stitches for every crocheter!
Crochet Stitch Dictionary
200 Essential Stitches with Step-by-Step Photos
Sarah Hazell
ISBN 978-1-62033-129-3 192 pages, $22.95

Find it online at www.InterweaveStore.com

Crochetscene

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83

Add a feminine note.

Bow Wrap by Jennifer Raymond.


This wonderfully versatile, classy piece
can be worn over the shoulders like a
wrap or worn around the neck and head
like a cowl. Accessible to beginners, it
also gives a bit of instant gratification to
more advanced crocheters. Yarn: Bernat
Softee Baby (distributed by Spinrite).
Page 94.

84 Crochetscene

2015

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85

Windsong Necklace by Kathryn White.


Add instant elegance with this whimsical pendant strung on a crocheted cord
that ties in the back for easy adjustment.
This is a terrific small accessory for
learning Romanian point lace and the
Irish crochet technique of crocheting
with padding cords. Yarn: Lizbeth
Thread Size 20 (distributed by Handy
Hands). Page 98.

86 Crochetscene

2015

Puff Shrug by April Garwood.


Pair this feminine shrug with a sundress or tank to add a touch of warmth
and loads of color. This puff stitch
shrug made in superwash yarn has a
smooshy-soft feel, and the lace edging
is classy and beautiful. Yarn: Cascade
Yarns Heritage Paints and Cascade
Yarns Heritage. Page 94.

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87

88 Crochetscene

2015

Lace Cuffs by Alla Koval.


Add feminine flair with these delightful
lace cuffs. Wear them with a sleeveless
dress or let them peek from the cuffs
of a long-sleeve top. (Or work them in
a wool yarn for winter!) Yarn: Omega
Cotton #5 (distributed by Creative Yarn
Source). Page 97.

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89

Corset Socks by Brenda K. B. Anderson.


The corsetlike lacing up the back of the
leg allows for an adjustable custom fit
without complicated pattern shaping. A
solid sole, toe, and heel lend practicality to an otherwise fabulously frivolous
sock. Yarn: Brown Sheep Company Wildfoote Luxury Sock Yarn. Page 92.

90 Crochetscene

2015

Petal Top by Natasha Robarge.


Inspired by blooming cherry trees,
this feminine top features an eyelet
stitch pattern evoking a layer of petals.
Horizontal lace strips have a hint of
new leaves and the intricacy of fragile
branches. The top-down seamless
construction allows you to adjust for a
perfect fit. Yarn: Shibui Knits Staccato.
Page 95.

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91

Siren Song

trim away excess if needed.


Lace patt is worked in rows from top of
foot upward. A small seam at back of ankle
is sewn below where lacing starts. Sole is
worked sideways in rows and sides of sole
are sewn to sides of lace patt (top-of-foot).
Toe and heel are worked in the rnd without
joins with RS always facing. Right and left
sock are worked the same.
Tch counts as st when working lace patt.
Tch does not count as st when working
solid sc or esc sections.

Stitch Guide

Pattern
With smaller hook, ch 33. Place marker
(pm) in 3rd ch from hook and leave in place
until last st of Row 2 is worked.
Row 1: Working in bottom ridge lp, sc in

2>
<1

8-st patt rep

sea

CALF/LEG

heel

top

of fo

ot

SOLE

p of

to
m to

foot

sea

314 (334, 412, 514)"


8.5 (9.5, 11.5, 13.5) cm

212"
6.5 cm

TOP OF
FOOT
414"
11 cm

134"
4.5 cm

heel seam

414"
11 cm

m to

2015

<3

seam to sole

92 Crochetscene

= chain (ch)
= single crochet
(sc)
= double crochet
(dc)

Reduced Lace Pattern

Notes
Socks are quite stretchy, lengthwise,
and fit best if sock measures 34" to 1"
shorter than actual foot measurement.
If you are between sizes and are having
trouble deciding which size to make, it is
better to make the smaller size. Later,
as you are working the toe of the sock,
you can add length to the sock to make it
longer if needed.
If your calves are extra large in width
or length, you may need a longer length
of ribbon. Beg by using 4 yd per sock and

Stitch Key

rep for patt

calf (adjustable with lacing at back of leg),


16" leg length, 812" ankle and foot
circumference, 8 (812, 914, 10)" sole
length designed to fit US Womens shoe
size 56.5 (78.5, 910.5, 1112.5). Length
is adjustable. Sample shown is for 914"
long foot.
Yarn Brown Sheep Company Wildfoote
Luxury Sock Yarn (75% washable wool,
25% nylon; 215 yd [197 m]/1 oz [50 g];
): #SY50 rosebud, 2 (3, 3, 3) skeins.
Note: you will only need a small amount of
the 3rd skein for the middle 2 sizes.
Hook Size B/1 (2.25 mm) and D/3 (3.25
mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to
obtain correct gauge.
Notions St markers (m); yarn needle; 2
pieces of 14" grosgrain ribbon, each cut to
3 yd.
Gauge Lace patt top-of-foot directions
through Row 12 = 414" wide and 4" tall
with smaller hook. 20 sts and 17 rows = 4"
in esc worked in turned rows with larger
hook.

Top-of-foot:

1034"
27.5 cm

Finished Size 9" circumference at top of

SOCK (MAKE 2)

312"
9 cm

Getting Started

toe

Brown Sheep Company Wildfoote Luxury Sock Yarn

Row 1: With smaller hook, ch 12, dc in dc


marked with contrasting m, [ch 2, sc in
ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next
dc] 3 times ending with last dc in marked
ch, ch 21, pm in 4th ch from hook, turn.
Row 2: Dc in 10th ch from hook (ch count

seam to sole

heel seam

Calf/leg:

314 (334,
412, 514)"
8.5 (9.5,
11.5, 13.5)
cm

Brenda K. B. Anderson

134"
4.5 cm

CORSET SOCKS

Extended single crochet two together


(esc2tog): Worked over next 2 sts, insert
hook in next st, yo and pull up lp, yo and
draw through 1 lp, insert hook in next st,
yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 1 lp,
yo and draw through all 3 lps.
Shell (sh): (Sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc) in st or
sp indicated.

7th ch from hook (counts as dc, ch 2, sk 1,


sc), ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next ch, [ch 3, sk
next 3 ch, dc in next ch, ch 2, sk next ch, sc
in next ch, ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next ch] 3
times, turn37 sts.
Row 2: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), pm
in 4th ch from hook, sk first dc, dc in next
dc [ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in next
dc, ch 3, dc in next dc] 3 times, ending with
last dc in marked st, turn35 sts.
Row 3: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), pm
in 3rd ch from hook, sc in first ch-sp, ch 2,
[dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc
in next ch-3 sp, ch 2] 3 times, dc in marked
st, turn37 sts.
Rows 47 (9, 11, 13): Rep Rows 23 two
(three, four, five) times.
Next Row: Rep Row 2. Place contrasting
m in last dc of row. Fasten off. Turn.

as dc, ch-3), ch 2, sk next ch, sc in next


ch, ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next ch, ch 3, sk
3 ch, dc in next ch, ch 2, sk next ch, sc in
next ch, ch 2, sk next ch, [dc in next dc, ch
3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch
2] 3 times, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc,
ch 2, sk next ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, sk next
ch, dc in next ch, ch 3, sk 3 ch, dc in next
ch, ch 2, sk next ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, sk
next ch, dc in last ch, turn71 sts.
Row 3: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), pm in
4th ch from hook, sk first dc, dc in next dc,
[ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc,
ch 3, dc in next dc] 6 times, ch 2, sc in next
ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in marked st, turn.
Rows 46: Rep Row 3 three times. The
m that you placed at beg of Row 6 will
designate where the top of the center back
seam in sock will be. Leave this m in place
until you are instructed to seam the sock.
Row 7: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), pm in
4th ch from hook, sk first dc, dc in next dc,
[ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in next dc,
ch 3, dc in next dc] 6 times ending with last
dc in marked st, leave rem sts unworked,
turn65 sts.
Row 8: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), pm in
3rd ch from hook, sc in first ch-3 sp, ch 2,
[dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc
in next ch-3 sp, ch 2] 6 times, dc in marked
st, turn67 sts.
Row 9: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), pm
in 4th ch from hook, sk first dc, dc in next
dc [ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, dc in next
dc, ch 3, dc in next dc] 6 times ending with
last dc in marked st, turn65 sts.
For shorter calf length: Rep Rows 89
fourteen times.
For average calf length: Rep Rows 89
fifteen times.
For longer calf length: Rep Rows 89
sixteen times.
Do not fasten off.
Solid edging at top of stocking:
Row 1: Cont with smaller hook, ch 1 (does
not count as st throughout), turn, sc in
next 5 sts, [ch 3, sk next (ch-2, sc, ch-2),
beg with next dc, sc in next 5 sts] 6 times,
turn53 sts.
Row 2: Ch 1, [sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next
ch-3 sp] 6 times, sc in last 5 sts, turn47
sts.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc across, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in next st, ch 2, sk next 2
sts, sc in next 41 sts, ch 2, sk next 2 sts,
sc in last st, turn. Hole at each end is for
corset lacing.
Row 5: (RS) Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next
ch-2 sp, sc in next 41 sts, 2 sc in next ch-2
sp, sc in last st. Do not fasten off. Block
sock.
Using yarn tail and yarn needle, whipstitch
(see Glossary) center-back-heel seam. The
top of this seam was marked at corner.
Match the patt across the row so that the

st patt cont across seam.

Scalloped edging for lacing:


With RS facing, rotate work 90 degrees to
work down side edge. Cont with smaller
hook and working lp, work sh (see Stitch
Guide) in hole at end of solid edging at
top of sock. Cont to work sh in each of the
larger holes along edge. Note: Only work
in sps with the larger holes, skipping sps
with (ch-2, sc, ch-2) sts at the row-ends.
When you reach the bottom of the opening,
work 3 sc across bottom lp, rotate with
same side facing and work sh in each
larger sps along opposite edge ending with
sh in last sp. Sl st to fasten off. Weave in
ends.

Rnd 3: [Esc2tog, esc in next 20 sts,


esc2tog] 2 times44 sts.
Rnd 4: [Esc2tog, esc in next 18 sts,
esc2tog] 2 times40 sts.
Rnd 5: [Esc2tog, esc in next 16 sts,
esc2tog] 2 times36 sts.
Rnd 6: [Esc2tog, esc in next 14 sts,
esc2tog] 2 times32 sts.
Rnd 7: [Esc2tog, esc in next 12 sts,
esc2tog] 2 times28 sts.
Rnd 8: [Esc2tog, esc in next 10 sts,
esc2tog] 2 times24 sts.
Rnd 9: [Esc2tog, esc in next 8 sts,
esc2tog] 2 times20 sts.
Rnd 10: [Esc2tog, esc in next 6 sts,
esc2tog] 2 times16 sts. Fasten off with sl
st in next st, leaving long tail.

Toe:

SOLE
Ch 18 (21, 24, 27).
Row 1: With larger hook, beg with 3rd ch
from hook, and working in bottom ridge
lp, esc (see Glossary) across, turn16 (19,
22, 25) sts.
Row 2: Ch 2, dc in next 6 (7, 8, 8) sts, esc
in next 10 (12, 14, 17) sts, turn16 (19, 22,
25) sts.
Row 3: Ch 2, esc across.
Rep Rows 23 six times. Fasten off, leaving
long tail.
Using yarn tails and yarn needle, sew
side edges (the foundation ch and the last
row worked) of sole to sides of lace patt
top-of-foot. Make sure that the wider end
of the sole is pointing toward the heel of
the sock.

Rnd 1: With RS of sock facing, using


larger hook, pull up lp at either side of toe
opening, ch 1, work 20 esc evenly spaced
across to opposite side of toe opening,
work another 20 esc evenly spaced across
opposite edge of toe opening, do not
join40 sts total around toe opening. In
order to sp sts evenly, it may help to divide
each section in half with a m. Then work
10 esc to m, then another 10 esc across to
opposite seam, rep.
Rnds 24: Esc in each st. Add or subtract
rnds to adjust length of sock here. Each
rnd adds another " to sock.
Rnd 5: [Esc2tog, esc in next 16 sts,
esc2tog] 2 times36 sts.
Rnd 6: Esc around.
Rnd 7: [Esc2tog, esc in next 14 sts,
esc2tog] 2 times32 sts.
Rnd 8: [Esc2tog, esc in next 12 sts,
esc2tog] 2 times28 sts.
Rnd 9: [Esc2tog 2 times, esc in next 6 sts,
esc2tog 2 times] 2 times20 sts. Fasten
off with a sl st in next st, leaving long tail.

FINISHING
Use yarn tails and yarn needle to whipstitch heel closed. Rep for toe opening.
Weave in ends. Lace ribbon through scalloped holes at back edge of sock.

Heel:
Rnd 1: With RS of sock facing, using
larger hook, pull up lp at either corner
of heel opening, ch 1, work 26 esc evenly
spaced across to opposite corner of heel
opening, rotate work and work another
26 esc evenly spaced across opposite
side of heel opening, do not join52 sts
total around heel opening. In order to sp
sts evenly, it may help to divide each side
in half with a m. Then work 13 esc sts to
m, then another 13 esc across to corner,
rotate work and rep for other edge.
Rnd 2: [Esc2tog (see Stitch Guide), esc in
next 22 sts, esc2tog] 2 times48 sts.
Crochetscene

interweavecrochet.com

93

Siren Song

Row 1: (RS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in


each ch across111 sc.
Row 2: Ch 2 (tch does not count as st
throughout), dc in first sc, [ch 1, sk next sc,
puff st (see Stitch Guide) in next sc] across
to last 2 sc, ch 1, sk next sc, dc in last sc,
turn54 puff sts.
Rows 329: Ch 2, dc in first dc, [ch 1, puff
st in next puff st] across to last dc, ch 1, dc
in last dc, turn.
Row 30: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch-sp
across111 sc. Do not fasten off.

foundation ch left of sleeve seam.


Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, work 96 sc evenly around
to next sleeve seam, sk seam and work 96
sc evenly around to first sleeve seam, sl st
in first sc to join192 sc.
Rnds 24: Work as for sleeve edging.
Fasten off.
Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

Sleeves:

PUFF SHRUG
April Garwood

With RS tog, fold shrug in half lengthwise.


Joining row: Ch 1, with edges even and
working through both layers, sl st in next
11 sts and ch-sps11 sl sts. Fasten off.
With RS tog and working through both
layers, join MC with sl st in 11th st from
end of row.
Joining row: Sl st in next 10 sts and
ch-sps11 sl sts. Fasten off.

Cascade Yarns Heritage Paints

Getting Started

BOW WRAP

Finished Size 1134" sleeve circumference

Jennifer Raymond

and 2334" from sleeve edge to sleeve edge


to fit 34" bust circumference with 2" ease.
Size is adjustable.
Yarn Cascade Yarns Heritage Paints (75%
superwash merino, 25% nylon; 437 yd
[400 m]/3 oz [100 g];
): #9883 wild
roses (MC), 1 skein.
Cascade Yarns Heritage (75% superwash
merino, 25% nylon; 437 yd [400 m]/3 oz
[100 g];
): #5616 fuschia (CC), 1 skein.
Hook Size F/5 (3.75 mm). Adjust hook size
if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions Yarn needle.
Gauge 9 puff sts and 912 rows = 4" in patt.

Finished Size 38 (40, 44, 48)" to fit 34 (36,


40, 44)" bust circumference.

Yarn Bernat Softee Baby (distributed by

FINISHING

Pattern
SHRUG

Body edging:

Stitch Guide
Puff stitch (puff st): Yo, insert hook in st
indicated, yo and pull up lp to dc height,
[yo, insert hook in same st, yo and pull
up lp to dc height] 2 times, yo and draw
through all 7 lps on hook.
Shell (sh): (Puff st (see above), [ch 2, puff
st] 2 times) in indicated st.

With RS facing, join CC with sl st in first

With MC, ch 112.

94 Crochetscene

2015

Getting Started

With RS facing, join CC with sl st in sleeve


seam of sleeve opening.
Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sl st in next row-end, sc
in same sp, work 71 sc in row-ends evenly
around, sl st in first sc to join72 sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc, sk next 2 sc,
sh (see Stitch Guide) in next sc, sk next 2
sc, *sc in next sc, sk next 2 sc, sh in next
sc, sk next 2 sc; rep from * around, sl st in
first sc to join12 shs.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same sc, ch 3, sc in
middle puff st of next sh, ch 3, *sc in next
sc, ch 3, sc in middle puff st of next sh,
ch 3; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to
join24 ch-3 sps.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, *(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in next ch-3
sp, sk next sc; rep from * around, sl st in
first sc to join. Fasten off.
Rep for 2nd sleeve opening.

Shrug is made by working a rectangle,


folding it lengthwise and seaming it to make
short sleeves. Edging is stitched around
sleeve edges and around body opening.
To fit different bust circumferences, inc
or dec number of foundation ch to be a
multiple of 2 ch + 4.
Tch does not count as st throughout.

Bernat Softee Baby

Sleeve edging:

Notes

Spinrite) (100% acrylic; 362 yd [331 m]/5 oz


[142 g];
): #16603030044 flannel (MC),
3 (4, 4, 4) skeins; #16603030424 soft red
(CC), 1 skein.
Hook Sizes L/11 (8 mm) and H/8 (5 mm).
Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain
correct gauge.
Notions Yarn needle; optional: locking st
markers (m).
Gauge Sc blo with yarn held double: 10.5
sts and 16 rows = 4" with larger hook. Sc
blo with yarn held single: 20 sts and 23
rows = 4" with smaller hook.

Notes
All sc are worked in blo unless otherwise noted.

Pattern
BODY
With 2 strands of MC held tog and larger
hook, loosely ch 101 (105, 117, 125).
Row 1: (WS) Sc in back ridge of 2nd ch
from hook and each ch across, turn100
[104, 116, 124] sts.
Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc blo across, turn.
Rows 330: Rep Row 2. Fasten off.

TIE
With single strand of CC and smaller hook,
loosely ch 39.
Row 1: (WS) Sc in back ridge of 2nd ch
from hook and each ch across, turn38
sts.
Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc blo across, turn.
Rows 316: Rep Row 2. Fasten off.

Yarn Shibui Knits Staccato (70% superwash merino, 30% silk; 191 yd [175 m]/
1 oz [50 g];
): #106 raspberry, 5 (5, 6,
6, 6, 7) skeins.
Hook Size G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if
necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions 32 st markers (m; short spare
yarn ties can be used instead); yarn
needle.
Gauge 1612 sts and 13 rows = 4" in upper
body patt.

Row 4: Ch 3, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, *sk 2 sc,


sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in ch-2 sp; rep
from * across, finishing with 3 dc in last
ch-2 sp, dc in last sc, turn.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, *ch 2, sk
1 sc, sc in next 7 sts; rep from * across
ending with sc in last 5 sts, turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first 3 sc, *sk 2 sc, sh
in next ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc; rep
from * across, turn.
Rep Rows 36 for patt.

Notes

Pattern

Garment is worked back and forth in rows


from shoulders down, then in one piece in
the rnd from underarms to hem.

TOP

Stitch Guide

Note: Markers (m) separate center patterned part from sleeves. Move m up every
row.
Ch 24 (26, 28, 30, 28, 30), turn.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each
ch across, turn23 (25, 27, 29, 27, 29) sc.
Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc2tog (see Glossary),
sc in next 11 (13, 15, 17, 15, 17) sc, place
marker (pm) in sc just made, sc in next 2
sc, sk 2 sc, sh in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next
3 sc, turn17 (19, 21, 23, 21, 23) sc, 1 sh.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc
in next 7 sts, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in marked sc,
sc across, turn.
Row 4: Ch 3, dc2tog (see Glossary), dc to
m, dc in marked sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, sk 2

Upper front:
RIGHT SHOULDER:

Shell (sh): 5 dc in st or sp indicated.


V-st: (Dc, ch 2, dc) in st or sp indicated.

Upper body patt


(multiple of 8 sts + 4):

FINISHING

512 (6, 612, 7,


612, 7)"
14 (15, 16.5, 18,
16.5, 18) cm

9 (9, 9, 9, 11, 11)"


23 (23, 23, 23, 28, 28) cm

Stitch Key

12"
1.3 cm

Leaving a 6" tail at each end, seam short


ends of body tog using mattress st (see
Glossary). When finished, pull yarn tightly
to gather edges. Turn piece to WS and tie
tails tog, creating a tube at seam. Use tails
to sew reinforcement of tube connection.
Wrap tie around bodys seam to hide seam.
With locking st markers, pin short edges
tog and seam with mattress st. Weave in
ends. Block gently.

Ch 36 for swatch.
Row 1: (WS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in
each ch across, turn35 sc.
Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc in first 3 sc, *sk 2 sc,
sh (see Stitch Guide) in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc
in next 3 sc; rep from * across, turn4 sh
made.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 2, sk 1 sc,
sc in next 7 sts; rep from * to last 2 sc, ch
2, sk 1 sc, sc in last sc, turn.

= slip stitch
(sl st)
= chain (ch)

712"
19 cm

212"
6.5 cm

= single crochet
(sc)
= double
crochet (dc)
= V-st

15"
38 cm

34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44)"


86.5 (91.5, 96.5, 101.5,
106.5, 112) cm

= shell (sh)

42 (44, 46, 48, 50, 52)"


106.5 (112, 117, 122, 127, 132) cm

PETAL TOP
Natasha Robarge

<7

Upper Body Pattern

6>

4
Shibui Knits Staccato

Getting Started
Finished Size 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44)" bust
circumference (blocked). Sample shown
measures 36", modeled with 2" ease.

rep for patt

Reduced Body Skirt Pattern

<6

5>

<5
<4
<4

3>

<2

1>

3>
<2

8-st patt rep

Crochetscene

interweavecrochet.com

95

Siren Song

sc, sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp,


dc in last sc, turn21 (23, 25, 27, 25, 27)
sts.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, ch 2, sk 1 sc,
sc in next 5 sts, sc across, turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to m, sc in marked
sc, sc in next 2 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in ch-2 sp, sk
2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, turn15 (17, 19, 21,
19, 21) sc, 1 sh. Fasten off.

LEFT SHOULDER AND FRONT:


Ch 24 (26, 28, 30, 28, 30), turn.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across,
turn23 (25, 27, 29, 27, 29) sc.
Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc in first 3 sc, sk 2 sc,
sh in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, pm
in sc just made, sc to last 2 sc, sc2tog,
turn17 (19, 21, 23, 21, 23) sc, 1 sh.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc to m, sc in marked sc, ch
2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc
in last sc, turn.

marked sc, sc in next 2 sc, *sk 2 sc, sh in


next ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc; rep
from * through marked sc, sc to last 2 sc,
sc2tog, turn.
Row 11: Ch 1, sc to m, sc in marked sc,
*ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts; rep from
* to 1 sc before m, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in
marked sc, sc across, turn.
Row 12: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc to m, dc in
marked sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, *sk 2 sc, sc in
next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in ch-2 sp; rep from *
across, ending with 3 dc in last ch-2 sp, dc
in marked sc, dc to last 2 sc, dc2tog, turn.
Rows 1321: Rep Rows 912 until 2 (4,
6, 8, 6, 8) sts are left to m on each side,
ending with Row 9.
Row 22 (beg inc for armhole): Ch 1, 2
sc in next sc, sc to m, sc in marked sc, sc
in next 2 sc, *sk 2 sc, sh in next ch-2 sp,
sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc; rep from * through
marked sc, sc to last sc, 2 sc in last sc,
turn.
Row 23: Rep Row 11. Fasten off.

Upper back:
RIGHT SHOULDER:
Row 1: (WS) Join yarn with sc to first st of
sleeve, sc across, turn.
Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc,
sh in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, pm in
st just made, sc across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc to m, sc in marked sc, ch
2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc
in last sc. Fasten off.

to m, dc in marked sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, **sk


2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in ch-2 sp;
rep from ** across, ending with 3 dc in last
ch-2 sp, dc in marked sc, dc to last sc, 2
dc in last sc, ch 4, sl st in first dc of back,
turn, sl st in next 2 sts142 (150, 158, 166,
174, 182) sts.

Body:
Rnd 1: Ch 1, **sc to m, sc in next 5 sts,
*ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts; rep from *
to next m ending with sc in last 5 sts (5th
st marked); rep from **, sc to end of rnd,
sl st in beg sc, turn.
Rnd 2: (RS) Ch 1, **sc to m, sc in marked
sc, sc in next 2 sc, *sk 2 sc, sh (see Stitch
Guide) in next ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in next
3 sc; rep from * through marked sc; rep
from **, sc to end of rnd, sl st in beg sc,
turn.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, **sc to m, sc in marked sc,
*ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts; rep from
* to one st before m, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in
marked sc; rep from **, sc to end of rnd, sl
st in beg sc, turn.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, **dc to m, dc in marked sc,
3 dc in ch-2 sp, *sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc,
sk 2 sc, sh in ch-2 sp; rep from * to next
m, ending with 3 dc in last ch-2 sp, dc in
marked sc; rep from **, dc to end of rnd, sl
st in beg sc, turn.
Rep Rnds 14 two times.

LEFT SHOULDER AND BACK:


Row 4: Ch 3, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in
next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in
marked sc, dc to last 2 sc, dc2tog, turn21
(23, 25, 27, 25, 27) sts.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc to m, sc in next 5 sts, ch 2,
sk 1 sc, sc in next 5 sts, turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first 3 sc, sk 2 sc, sh
in next ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc
(last sc marked), sc to last 2 sc, sc2tog,
turn15 (17, 19, 21, 19, 21) sc, 1 sh.
Row 7 (join shoulders): Ch 1, sc to m, sc
in marked sc, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next 7 sts,
ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in last sc of left shoulder,
ch 37 (37, 37, 37, 45, 45), sc in first sc of
right shoulder, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in next
7 sts, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in marked sc, sc
across, turn.
Row 8: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc to m, dc in
marked sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, *with ch
counting as sts, sk 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts,
sk 2 sts, sh in ch-2 sp/next sc; rep from
* across neck ch, ending with 3 dc in last
ch-2 sp, dc in marked sc, dc to last 2 sc,
dc2tog, turn.
Row 9: Ch 1, sc to m, sc in next 5 sts,
*ch 2, sk 1 st, sc in next 7 sts; rep from *
across ending with sc in last 5 sts (5th st
marked), sc across, turn.
Row 10: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to m, sc in

96 Crochetscene

2015

Row 1: (WS) Join yarn with sc in first st of


shoulder at neck, sc across, turn.
Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, sc in next 13 (15, 17, 19,
17, 19) sc, pm in sc just made, sc in next 2
sc, sk 2 sc, sh in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next
3 sc, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in next sc, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc
in next 7 sts, ch 2, sk 1 sc, sc in marked sc,
sc across, turn.
Row 4 (join shoulders): Ch 3, dc to m, dc
in marked sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc
in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp,
dc in last sc of left shoulder, ch 37 (37, 37,
37, 45, 45), dc in first sc of right shoulder,
3 dc in ch-2 sp, sk 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, sk
2 sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in marked sc, dc
across, turn.
Rows 525: Rep Rows 912 of front until
2 (4, 6, 8, 6, 8) sts left to m on each side,
ending with Row 9.
Row 26 (beg inc for armhole): Rep Row
22 of front.
Row 27: Rep Row 11 of front.
Row 28 (inc for armholes and join
front and back): Ch 3, dc in same sc, dc
to m, dc in marked sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp, *sk
2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, sk 2 sc, sh in ch-2 sp;
rep from * across, ending with 3 dc in last
ch-2 sp, dc in marked sc, dc to last sc, 2 dc
in last dc, ch 4, 2 dc in first dc of front, dc

Body skirt:
Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc around, inc 2 dc (work 2
dc in each side st), sl st in top of beg ch-3,
turn144 (152, 160, 168, 176, 184) dc.
Rnd 2: (RS) Ch 4, sk 1 dc, *dc in next dc,
ch 1, sk 1 dc; rep from * around, sl st in
3rd ch of beg ch-4, turn.
Rnd 3: (WS) Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, *dc in
next dc, dc in ch-1 sp; rep from * around,
sl st in top of beg ch-3, turn.
Rnd 4: (RS) Ch 5, dc in same st, ch 1, sk 3
dc, sh in next dc, ch 1, *sk 3 dc, V-st (see
Stitch Guide) in next dc, ch 1, sk 3 dc, sh
in next dc, ch 1; rep from * around, sl st in
3rd ch of beg ch-5, do not turn.
Rnd 5: (RS) Sl st in first ch-2 sp, ch 5, dc
in same sp, V-st in 3rd dc of shell, *V-st in
next ch-2 sp, V-st in 3rd dc of next shell;

rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg


ch-5, turn.
Rnd 6: (WS) Ch 3, dc in next dc, 2 dc in
next ch-2 sp, *dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next
ch-2 sp; rep from * around, sl st in top of
beg ch-3, turn.
Rnd 7: Rep Rnd 2.
Rnd 8: Mark mid side ch-1 sp on each
side of garment. Mark 1st, 3rd, 5th, and
7th ch-1 sps on each side of both m. Ch
3, dc in ch-1 sp, *dc in next dc, 2 dc in
marked sp/1 dc in unmarked sp; rep from
* around, sl st in top of beg ch-3, turn16
sts incd.
Rnds 912: Rep Rnds 47.
Rnd 13: Rep Rnd 3.
Rnds 1417: Rep Rnds 47.
Rnd 18: Mark side ch-1 sp on each side
of garment. Mark 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th,
11th, 13th, and 15th ch-1 sps on each side
of both m. Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, *dc in next
dc, 2 dc in marked sp/1 dc in unmarked sp;
rep from * around, sl st in top of beg ch-3,
turn32 sts incd.
Rnds 1922: Rep Rnds 47.
Rnds 2324: Rep Rnds 34.
Rnd 25: Ch 1, *3 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in ch-1
sp, sc in next 5 dc, sc in ch-1 sp; rep from
* around, sl st in beg sc. Fasten off.

Creative Yarn Source) (100% cotton;


164 yd [150 m]/1 oz [50 g];
): #55
pistachio, 1 ball.
Hook Size B/1 (2.25 mm). Adjust hook size
if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions Ten 14" white pearl buttons
(shown: La Mode buttons, item #4662);
yarn needle; sewing needle and matching
thread.
Gauge 6 reps and 20 rows = 4" in patt.

Stitch Guide
Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.
Shell (sh): [3 sc, picot, (2 sc, picot) 2 times,
3 sc] in indicated sp or st.

Pattern
CUFF (MAKE 2)

LACE CUFFS
Alla Koval

4
Omega Cotton #5

Getting Started
Finished Size 712 (814, 9)" wide and 412"
long.

Yarn Omega Cotton #5 (distributed by

Ch 47 (52, 57).
Row 1: (RS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in
each ch across, turn46 (51, 56) sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, [ch 5, sk next
4 sc, sc in next sc] across, turn9 (10, 11)
ch-5 sps.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, 7 sc in each
ch-5 sp across, sc in last sc, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 5, sk next 3
sc, sc in next sc, [ch 5, sk next 6 sc, sc in
next sc] across to last 4 sc, ch 2, sk next 3
sc, dc in last sc, turn9 (10, 11) ch-5 sps.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first dc, 3 sc in next

Reduced Cuff Pattern

Stitch Key

6>

= chain (ch)

<5

= slip stitch
(sl st)
= single
crochet (sc)
= half double
crochet (hdc)

4>

= double
crochet (dc)
= patt repeat

<3
2>
<1

FINISHING

Reduced Rufe Border

Armhole edging:
Pm about 13 of sleeve circumference from
shoulder seam on both sides. With RS
facing, join yarn at underarm, sc around
evenly to m, sc in every other st bet m,
gathering sleeve a little, sc evenly to end of
rnd, sl st in beg sc. Fasten off.

Neckline edging:
With RS facing, join yarn at shoulder seam,
sc evenly around. Fasten off.
Weave in ends. Lightly block.

<7
6

<5

>
4

<3

>
2

<1

>

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97

Siren Song

ch-2 sp, 7 sc in each ch-5 sp across to last


ch-5 sp, 4 sc in last ch-5 sp, turn64 (71,
78) sc.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first sc, [ch 5, sk next 6
sc, sc in next sc] across, turn.
Rows 712: Rep Rows 36, then rep Rows
34. Fasten off.

Ruffled Border:
Size 712" only:
Row 1: (RS) With RS facing and working
in free lps of beg ch, join with sl st in first
ch, ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), sk next ch,
dc in next ch, *[ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next
ch] 3 times, [ch 2, dc in next ch] 2 times**,
[ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next ch] 3 times, ch
2, dc in next dc; rep from * 2 times, ending
last rep at **, [ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next
ch] 2 times, ch 2, dc in last ch, turn27
ch-2 sps.

Size 814" only:


Row 1: (RS) With RS facing and working
in free lps of beg ch, join with sl st in first
ch, ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), sk next ch,
dc in next ch, *[ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next
ch] 3 times, ch 2, dc in next ch*, ([ch 2, sk
next ch, dc in next ch] 8 times, ch 2, dc in
next ch) 2 times; rep from * to *, turn27
ch-2 sps.

Size 9" only:


Row 1: (RS) With RS facing and working in
free lps of beg ch, join with sl st in first ch,
ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), sk next 2 chs,
dc in next ch, [ch 2, sk next ch, dc in next
ch] across, turn27 ch-2 sps.

[ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp] 2 times, ch 1, hdc


in last sc, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first hdc, [ch 3, sc in
next ch-2 sp] 2 times, *ch 9, sc in 2nd picot
of next sh, ch 9, sc in next ch-3 sp**, [ch
3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 4 times; rep from *,
then rep from * to **, [ch 3, sc in next ch-2
sp] 2 times, turn.
Row 5: [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times,
*sh in each of next 2 ch-9 sps, sc in next
ch-3 sp**, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3
times; rep from *, then rep from * to **,
ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, hdc in next
sc, turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first hdc, ch 3, sc in
next ch-3 sp, *[ch 9, sc in 2nd picot of next
sh] 2 times, ch 9, sc in next ch-3 sp**, [ch
3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 2 times; rep from *,
then rep from * to **, ch 3, sc in last ch-3
sp, turn.
Row 7: Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, *sh in
each of next 3 ch-9 sps, sc in next ch-3
sp**, picot, sc in next ch-3 sp; rep from *,
then rep from * to **, ch 1, hdc in last sc.
Do not fasten off.

Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, with RS facing and


working in row-ends, work 27 sc evenly
across left cuff edge, 3 sc in corner; working along upper edge of cuff, (sc, picot,
2 sc) in next ch-2 sp, (4 sc, picot, 3 sc) in
each ch-5 sp across; work 26 sc evenly
across right cuff edge.

4
Lizbeth Thread Size 20

Getting Started
Finished Size 15" across necklace, plus

Right cuff edging:


Row 1: (RS) Rep Row 1 of left cuff edging.

Notes

BUTTONHOLE BAND:

To adjust size, make the ch sections and


the Romanian point lace to desired length
for fit.

BUTTONHOLE BAND:

2015

12" of ties. Medallion measures 234" long


by 138" wide.
Yarn Lizbeth Thread Size 20 (distributed
by Handy Hands) (100% Egyptian cotton;
210 yd [191 m]/ oz [25 g];
): #672
burgundy; one ball.
Lizbeth Thread Size 10 (distributed by
Handy Hands) (100% Egyptian cotton;
122 yd [111 m]/ oz [25 g];
): #672
burgundy; one ball.
Hook Size 9 (1.4 mm) steel hook, size 7
(1.65 mm) steel hook. Adjust hook size if
necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions One 2 mm cut crystal bead;
needle and thread to sew on bead; yarn
needle.
Gauge Medallion = 234" long by 138" wide
with smaller hook.

With RS facing, join with sl st in corner sc


of Row 1 of left cuff edging, working from
left to right along left side of cuff edge, ch
1, rev sc in same st and in next sc, *ch 2,
sk next sc, rev sc in next 5 sc; rep from *
across to last 3 sc, ch 2, sk next sc, rev sc
in last 2 sc. Fasten off.

98 Crochetscene

Left cuff edging:

BUTTON BAND:

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first dc, [ch 3, sc in next


ch-2 sp] 3 times, *ch 9, sk next 2 ch-2 sps,
sc in next ch-2 sp**, [ch 3, sc in next ch-2
sp] 6 times; rep from *, then rep from *
to **, [ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp] 3 times,
turn18 ch-3 sps, 3 ch-9 sps.
Row 3: [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times,
*sh (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-9 sp, sc
in next ch-3 sp**, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp]
5 times; rep from *, then rep from * to **,

Kathryn White

FINISHING

Working from left to right, ch 1, rev sc (see


Glossary) in each sc of right side of cuff
edge. Fasten off.

All sizes:

WINDSONG
NECKLACE

Working from left to right along right side


of cuff edge, ch 1, rev sc in first 2 sc, ch
2, sk next sc, *rev sc in next 5 sc, ch 2, sk
next sc; rep from * across to last 2 sc, rev
sc in last 2 sc. Fasten off.

BUTTON BAND:
With RS facing, join with sl st in corner sc
of Row 1 of right cuff edging, working from
left to right, ch 1, rev sc in each sc of left
side of cuff edge. Fasten off.
Wet or steam block cuffs to finished measurements. Weave in ends. With RS of cuff
facing and using sewing needle and thread,
sew buttons opposite buttonholes.

Stitch Guide
Padding cord (PC): Cut 3 strands of
thread to indicated length, hold strands
tog and fold in half, work st in indicated st
and around the fold of the padding cord
threads, working over all 4 strands of pc
and in sts or sps as indicated in patt.
Chain three picot (ch3p): Ch 3, sl st in
last st made.
Two double crochet cluster (2dccl): Yo,
insert hook in st indicated, yo and pull up
lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook, yo,

insert hook in same st, yo and pull up lp,


yo and draw through 2 lps on hook, yo and
draw through all 3 lps on hook.
Two treble cluster (2trcl): Yo 2 times,
insert hook in st indicated, yo and pull up
lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2
times, yo 2 times, insert hook in same st,
yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2
lps on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through
all 3 lps on hook.
Three treble cluster (3trcl): Yo 2 times,
insert hook in st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and
draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times, *yo 2
times, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up
lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2
times; rep from *, yo and draw through all
4 lps on hook.
Four treble cluster (4trcl): Yo 2 times,
insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp, [yo
and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times,
*yo 2 times, insert hook in next st, yo and
pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on
hook] 3 times; rep from *, yo and draw
through all 4 lps on hook.
Romanian point lace cord: Ch 2, sc in
2nd ch from hook, rotate piece away from
you (always rotate in the same direction),
sc in ch at base of sc just made, rotate
away from you until you see 2 lps at base
of last sc made, sc in 2 lps, *rotate cord
away from you, sc in 2 lps at base of previous sc; rep from * until cord measures
indicated length.

6 strands of PC around, 3 sc in same sp, 3


sc in each of next 4 ch-1 sps, 7 sc in next
ch 4 sp, 3 sc in each of next 4 ch-1 sps, 3
sc in same ch-sp as first sc, sl st in first sc
to join. Adjust PC so inner ring lays flat.
Rnd 3: Drop PC for this rnd, ch 1, sc in
same sc, ch 1, sk next sc, hdc in next sc,
ch 2, sk next sc, dc in next sc, [ch 1, sk
next sc, dc in next sc] 4 times, ch 1, sk next
sc, hdc in next sc, ch 1, sc in next sc, sl st
in next 7 sc, sc in next sc, ch 1, hdc in next
sc, [ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next sc] 5 times,
ch 2, sk next sc, hdc in next sc, ch 1, sl st
in first sc to join.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, working over all 6 strands of
PC around, sc in same sc, (2 sc, ch3p [see
Stitch Guide], sc) in each of next 8 ch-sps,
sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc on Rnd 2,
ch3p, 2 sc in next sc on Rnd 2, *sc in next
sc on Rnd 2, ch 9, 2dccl (see Stitch Guide)
in 3rd ch from hook, ch3p, ch 3, sl st in ch
at base of 2dccl, sl st in next 6 ch, sc in
same sc on Rnd 2**, sc in next sc on Rnd
2, ch 11, 2dccl in 3rd ch from hook, ch3p,
ch 3, sl st in ch at base of 2dccl, sl st in
next 8 ch, sc in same sc on Rnd 2; rep from
* to **, 2 sc in next sc on Rnd 2, sc in next
sc on Rnd 2, ch3p, sc in same sc on Rnd
2, sc in next sc, (2 sc, ch3p, sc) in each of
next 8 ch-sps, sl st in first st to join.

Medallion:
INNER RING:

NECKLACE

Using yarn needle, weave in padding


cord ends and trim off excess. Using yarn
needle, sew tip of pendant tab to the WS
of medallion at the base of the first row of
tab. With needle and thread, sew bead to
base of first row of tab on RS of medallion. Weave in ends. Slide end of necklace
through the pendant tab. Center medallion
on necklace.

Stitch Key
= chain (ch)
= slip stitch
(sl st)
= single crochet
(sc)
= half double
crochet (hdc)
= double crochet
(dc)
= extended double
crochet (edc)

With size 10 thread and size 7 hook, ch


4, 2trcl (see Stitch Guide) in 4th ch from
hook, ch3p, ch 4, sl st in ch at base of 2trcl,
ch 67, work Romanian point lace cord (see
Stitch Guide) for 15", ch 69, yo 2 times,
insert hook in 4th ch from hook, yo and
pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on

= treble crochet (tr)

= chain 3 picot
(ch3p)
= padding cord

Medallion

<
3
<2

With size 20 thread and smaller hook, ch 16.


Rnd 1: Edc (see Glossary) in 5th ch from
hook, ch 1, [sk next ch, tr in next ch] 3
times, ch 1, sk next ch, edc in next ch, ch 1,
sk next 2 ch, sl st in last ch to join.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc around joining sl st and
through the fold of the PC, working over all

<4

Cut three 24" pieces of size 10 thread, hold


tog and fold in half, set aside for PC (see
Stitch Guide).

FINISHING

TAB:
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as tr), 4 tr in same
sc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3, tr in same tr, tr in next 3 tr, 2
tr in next tr, turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, tr in next tr, 3trcl (see Stitch
Guide), leave rem st unworked, turn.
Row 4: Ch 2, 4trcl (see Stitch Guide).
Fasten off, leaving a 6" tail.

Pattern

hook] 2 times, *yo 2 times, insert hook in


same st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw
through 2 lps on hook] 2 times; rep from
*, yo and draw through all 4 lps on hook,
ch3p. Fasten off.

<1

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99

100 Crochetscene

2015

Plaiter Scarf by Brenda K. B. Anderson.


An unusual stitch pattern worked in a
chubby yarn makes for a thick, warm scarf
with nice drape. A variegated yarn creates
a beautiful printlike appearancea solid
color would highlight the braided look of
the stitch pattern. Yarn: Lornas Laces
Cloudgate. Page 110.

Polar vortex? No worries.

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101

102 Crochetscene

2015

GF*BF Mitts by Suzanne Hirth.


These mitts go together like peanut butter and jelly, with tweaks at the cuffs for
differentiation. Youll stay warm while
looking cool. Yarn (both mitts): Madelinetosh Tosh Sock. Page 113.

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103

104 Crochetscene

2015

Isosceles Cowl by Brenda K. B. Anderson.


This asymmetrical neck warmer is made
from a long, folded triangle-shaped piece,
wrapped around the neck and fastened
with a big button. Its supersimple and
quick to make, with a lot of visual impact.
Yarn: Berroco Brio. Page 110.

Crochetscene

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105

Baskerville Cowl by Jill Wright.


Clever crocheted colorplay yields a
fabric that looks woven. This stylish
cowl can be worn in a range of options
scrunched up at the neck, over your
head, or in a tube around your shoulders. Yarn: Universal Yarn Little Bird.
Page 114.

get the

sh

op

co
m

KIT
Baskerville Cowl

e.
.cro
m
t
c he

106 Crochetscene

2015

Crochetscene

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107

Wriggle Wrap by Edie Eckman.


A giant button harnesses this ample
wrap however you want to style it. The
on-trend chevron pattern is open to a
range of color options. Yarn: Stonehedge Fiber Mill Shepherds Wool
Worsted. Page 112.

108 Crochetscene

2015

accessories.
Crochet 23 fashion-forward accessories created
by up-and-coming designers with It Girl Crochet.
It Girl Crochet turns the cutest
accessories seen in boutiques
into crochet patterns and stitch
diagrams. Crochet trendy bags,
scarves, belts, and hats with as
little as one skein of yarn! Plus,
improve your technique with
the glam designs using basic
crochet as well as more
sophisticated techniques
such as Tunisian, beading,
applique, and motifs.
Sharon Zientara
128 Pages, $22.99
ISBN 13: 9781620330968

Order online at InterweaveStore.com.

Layers

rows below, enclosing the ch-3 sp from


previous row within your sts. Enclosed
ch-3 sps are difficult to see on future
rows, since they are up against the sts
you are working into. Be sure to separate
the ch-3 sp from the row below it to find
the correct sp for the hook.

Pattern
SCARF

PLAITER SCARF
Brenda K. B. Anderson

4
Lornas Laces Cloudgate

Getting Started
Finished Size 68" long and 5" wide.
Yarn Lornas Laces Cloudgate (90%
superwash merino, 10% nylon; 120 yd [110
m]/3 oz [100 g];
): #27 black purl;
3 skeins.
Hook Size K/1012 (6.5 mm). Adjust hook
size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions St markers (m); yarn needle;
piece of cardboard that measures 512"
wide (to make fringe).
Gauge 19 sts and 8 rows = 4" square in
patt.

Notes
Scarf is worked widthwise in turned
rows; tch counts as hdc.
First and last rows of scarf use shorter
sts to avoid large gaps bet sts at edges.
When directed to work around ch-3 sp
from previous row, work sts in st or sp 2

Edging for fringe:

= half double
crochet (hdc)

Ch 1, [sc in next 2 sts, sk next st] 6 times,


sc in top of tch13 sc.
Fasten off. Join yarn at opposite edge of
scarf and work same edging for fringe
across foundation ch.

= double crochet
(dc)

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block.

Stitch Key
= chain (ch)

FINISHING

last row
4
3
2
1

6-st rep

110 Crochetscene

Wrap yarn loosely around cardboard


rectangle 26 times, cut lps of yarn to
create 26 pieces of fringe. Rep so you have
52 pieces of yarn that measure about 11"
long. Holding 2 pieces of fringe at a time,
fold yarn in half to find center, insert hook
through first sc and pull yarn through st
just far enough so that you can get two
fingers through. Reach through lp, grab
the 4 ends of yarn and pull through lp. Pull
tightly to secure fringe. Rep for each sc
along edging. Trim fringe evenly to about
312" long.

ISOSCELES COWL
Brenda K. B. Anderson

4
Berroco Brio

Getting Started
Finished Size 21" circumference and 9" tall
(with collar folded).
Yarn Berroco Brio (49% wool, 48% acrylic,
3% other; 109 yd [100 m]/3 oz [100 g];
):
#9466 soar, 2 balls.
Hook Size L/11 (8 mm). Adjust hook size if
necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions St markers (m); yarn needle;
pre-stiffened felt in matching color; one
2" button; 1 large sew-on snap; sewing
needle and matching thread.
Gauge 10 sts and 512 rows = 4" in hdc blo.

Notes

Scarf Pattern
rep for patt

Ch 21.
Row 1: Working in bottom lp of ch, hdc in
5th ch from hook (skipped ch counts as hdc),
ch 3, sk next ch, hdc in next ch, [ch 1, sk next
3 ch, hdc in next ch, ch 3, sk next ch, hdc in
next ch] 2 times, sk next ch, hdc in last ch,
turn8 hdc, 3 ch-3 sps, 2 ch-1 sps.
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as hdc throughout),
working around ch-3 sp of previous row
(see Notes), (dc, ch 3, dc) in skipped foundation ch bet next 2 hdc, [ch 1, working
around next ch-3 sp of previous row, (dc,
ch 3, dc) in skipped foundation ch bet next
2 hdc] 2 times, hdc in top of tch, turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, working around ch-3 sp of
previous row, (dc, ch 3, dc) in ch-3 sp bet
next 2 hdc of Row 1 (see Notes), [ch 1,
working around ch-3 sp of previous row,
(dc, ch 3, dc) in ch-3 sp bet next 2 hdc of
Row 1] 2 times, hdc in top of tch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 2, working around ch-3 sp of
previous row, (dc, ch 3, dc) in ch-3 sp bet
next 2 dc 2 rows below, [ch 1, working
around ch-3 sp of previous row, (dc, ch 3,
dc) in ch-3 sp bet next 2 dc 2 rows below] 2
times, hdc in top of tch, turn.
Rep Row 4 until scarf measures about
6612".
Last Row: Ch 2, working around ch-3 sp
of previous row, (hdc, ch 3, hdc) in ch-3 sp
bet next 2 dc 2 rows below, [ch 1, working
around ch-3 sp of previous row, (hdc, ch 3,
hdc) in ch-3 sp bet next 2 dc 2 rows below]
2 times, hdc in top of tch, turn. Do not
fasten off.

Fringe:

2015

Cowl is worked lengthwise in turned


rows. Tch do not count as sts. Sample
shown was made using small pieces of
felt to reinforce button and snap. For
simpler finishing, omit buttonhole on
Row 3 and sew cowl ends tog, sewing
button through both layers of fabric. If
you choose to work buttonhole option,
check to make sure button fits through
buttonhole after working Row 4.

)'/&,)*#,' %+
&++*+%.!.#)/+)%


   
25 DESIGNS using beads, thread,
charms, ribbon, cord and more

+).)'' %*%#+)&)
&)$)& )/#&**%) %*+&%*)&,%
%#+ !.#)/* %* %
   
 )##*+/#% (,*# "
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Keiko Sakamoto

  

  
 '*

Layers

For a smaller cowl, work fewer rows.

Stitch Guide
Gauge swatch:

to work into last row, work sc in each hdc


across, do not join.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sl st (loosely) in each sc
around. Fasten off.

Ch 12.
Row 1: (RS) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook
(skipped ch do not count as st) and in each
ch across, turn10 hdc.
Row 2: Ch 2 (tch does not count as st), hdc
blo in each hdc across.
Rep Row 2 four times.
Piece measures about 4" square (excluding tch and foundation ch).

Yarn Stonehedge Fiber Mill Shepherds


Wool Worsted (100% worsted spun fine
wool; 250 yd [228 m]/4 oz [113 g];
):
berries (A), beaches (B), lemon yellow (C),
3 skeins each.
Hook Size I/9 (5.5 mm). Adjust hook size if
necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions Yarn needle; one large decorative
button; one 34" button.
Gauge 12 sts = 4" in chevron crunch patt.

Notes
Work in 1-row stripes in color sequence
A, B, and C throughout.

Stitch Guide
Hdc cluster (hdc-cl): [Yo, insert hook in st
and pull up lp] 2 times in same st, yo and
draw through all 5 lps on hook.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block to measurements.
Thread needle with a length of matching
thread.
Cut out an oval felt piece that measures
approx. 4" long by 2" wide. Fold oval in
half crosswise and cut piece in half along
folding line. With WS of Row 1 facing and
sewing needle threaded with matching
thread, sew half oval to end of cowl bet
Row 1 and buttonhole. Sew male end of
snap to felt. With RS of Row 33 facing, sew
half oval to end of cowl on Row 33, 11"
across from first hdc (7" from last hdc).
Sew female end of snap to felt. Using
photo as a guide and with RS facing, sew
button to Row 33, 10" across from first hdc
(8" from last hdc).

Pattern
COWL
Ch 10.
Row 1: (RS) Hdc in 3rd ch from hook
(skipped ch do not count as st) and in bottom
ridge lp of each ch across, turn8 hdc.
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as st
throughout), hdc blo in each hdc to last
hdc, 2 hdc blo in last hdc, turn9 hdc.
Row 3 (buttonhole row): Ch 2, hdc blo
in next 4 hdc, ch 2, sk next 2 hdc, (buttonhole), hdc blo in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc blo in
last hdc, turn8 hdc and 1 ch-2 sp.
Row 4: Ch 2, hdc blo in next 4 hdc, 2 hdc
in ch-2 sp, hdc blo to last hdc, 2 hdc blo in
last hdc, turn11 hdc.
Rows 533: Ch 2, hdc blo in each hdc to
last hdc, 2 hdc blo in last hdc40 hdc. Do
not fasten off.

Edging:
Divide each long edge (row-ends) into 4
sections using st markers.
With RS facing, rotate cowl to work in
row-ends.
Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, work 13 sc evenly across
each of the 4 sections, rotate to work in
foundation ch, work sc in each ch across,
rotate to work in row-ends, work 13 sc
evenly across each of 4 sections, rotate
112 Crochetscene

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WRIGGLE WRAP
Edie Eckman

Stonehedge Fiber Mill Shepherds Wool Worsted

Getting Started
Finished Size 12" wide and about 60" long.

Chevron crunch st (multiple of 8


sts + 1):
Row 1: (RS) Working in bottom ridge lp of
foundation ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and
in next 3 ch, hdc-cl (see above) in next 4
ch, *sc in next 4 ch, hdc-cl in next 4 ch; rep
from * across, changing to next color on
last st, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, *sc in next 4 cl, hdc-cl in
next 4 ch; rep from * across, changing to
next color on last st, turn.
Rep Row 2 for patt.

Pattern
WRAP
With A, ch 169 loosely.
Rows 110: Working in 1-row stripes of A,
B, and C, work even in chevron crunch st
(see Stitch Guide)168 sts.
Row 11 (inc): (RS) With B, ch1, sc in next
4 cl, hdc-cl in next 4 sc, *2 sc in next cl,
sc in next 3 cl, hdc in next 4 sc; rep from
* to last 8 sts, sc in next 4 cl, hdc-cl in
last 4 sc, changing to next color on last st,
turn187 sts.
Next and all foll rows: Ch 1, work sc in
each hdc and work hdc-cl in each sc across,
changing to next color on last st, turn.

Work even until piece measures about 12"


from beg, ending with color A on a RS row.
Do not fasten off.
With RS facing and working along short
edge, sc evenly across to corner. Fasten
off. With RS facing, join A at opposite
corner and sc evenly across other short
edge to corner. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block. Sew small button to
large decorative button, creating a shank
button (neck between the two buttons).
Button smaller button through doubled
layer of wrap as desired.

Pattern
MITT (MAKE 2)
With smaller hook, ch 35.
Row 1: Pull up lp in 2nd ch from hook and
in and each ch across35 lps on hook;
RetP (see Glossary).
Row 2: Fwp: Tps (see Glossary) in next 4
sts, *yo, tss2tog (see Glossary); rep from *
4 times, tss (see Glossary) in next 17 sts,
tks (see Glossary) in next 3 sts35 lps on
hook; RetP.
Row 3: Fwp: Tps in next 4 sts, *tfs (see
Stitch Guide) in yo sp, tss in next st; rep
from * 4 times, tss in next 17 sts, tks in
next 3 sts35 lps on hook; RetP.
Rep Rows 23 fourteen (sixteen, eighteen)
times, then rep Row 2 once more.
With larger hook, work last Fwp: Insert
hook in sts as if working next row in patt
(Row 3), sl st across. Do not fasten off.
Remove hook, leaving last lp live.

Seam and thumb opening:

GF MITTS
Suzanne Hirth

4
Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Getting Started
Finished Size 612 (7, 712)" hand circumference. Sample shown measures 7".

superwash merino, 395 yd [361 m]/312 oz


[100 g];
): betine, 1 skein.
Hook Size F/5 (3.75 mm) Tunisian hook and
G/6 (4 mm) Tunisian hook. Adjust hook size
if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions Yarn needle.
Gauge 26 sts and 5 rows = 4" in tss on
smaller hook.

Shell edging:

Notes

Working in row-ends, sc in first row, *sk


next row, sh (see Stitch Guide) in next row,
sk next row, sc in next row; rep from *
around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

FINISHING

superwash merino, 395 yd [361 m]/3 oz


[100 g];
): curiosity, 1 skein.
Hook Size F/5 (3.75 mm) Tunisian hook and
G/6 (4 mm) Tunisian hook. Adjust hook size
if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions Yarn needle.
Gauge 26 sts and 5 rows = 4" in tss on
smaller hook.

Rnd 1: With larger hook, join yarn with sl


st to base of thumb opening. Working in
blo, work 20 sc evenly around, sl st in first
sc to join.
Rnd 2: Working in blo, sl st in each sc
around, sl st in first sl st to join.
Weave in ends.

To avoid having several ends to weave


in, mitts are worked flat continuously,
from beg of foundation to the join at the
end of shell edge, and seamed.

Suzanne Hirth

With WS facing and live lp in upper-right


corner, fold work so that WS are tog and
last Fwp edge is behind foundation row
edge and back lps of these rows are
adjacent.
Join right corners by inserting larger hook
through blo of foundation ch, pick up live
lp and draw through. Working in blo of
foundation ch and last Fwp row, sl st seam
(see Glossary) next 9 sts, working in blo
of foundation ch only, sl st seam loosely
in next 10 sts, sk next 10 sts on Fwp edge,
working in blo of foundation ch and last
Fwp row, sl st in each st across.
Rotate work so that cuff opening is up.

Yarn Madelinetosh Tosh Sock (100%

Notes

BF MITTS

Thumb opening edging:

Madelinetosh Tosh Sock

Getting Started
Finished Size 712 (812, 912)" hand circumference. Sample shown measures 812".

Yarn Madelinetosh Tosh Sock (100%

To avoid having several ends to weave


in, the mitts are worked flat continuously,
from beg of foundation to the join at the
end of sc edge, and seamed.

Stitch Guide
Tunisian crossed st (tcs): Sk one vertical
bar, tss in next vertical bar, tss in skipped
vertical bar.

Pattern
MITT (MAKE 2)
With smaller hook, ch 38.
Row 1: Pull up lp in 2nd ch from hook and in
each ch across38 lps on hook; RetP (see
Glossary).

Stitch Guide
Tunisian full stitch (tfs): Insert hook from
front to back in indicated sp, yo and pull
up a lp.
Shell (sh): 5 dc in st indicated.

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113

Layers

Row 2: Tks (see Glossary) in next 4 sts,


tcs (see Stitch Guide) in next 5 sts, tss
(see Glossary) in next 20 sts, tks in next 3
sts38 lps on hook; RetP.
Rep Row 2 thirty-seven (forty-two, fortyseven) times.
With larger hook, work last Fwp: Insert
hook in sts as if working next row in patt,
sl st across. Do not fasten off. Remove
hook, leaving last lp live.
Seam and thumb opening:
With WS facing and live lp in upper-right
corner, fold work so that WS are tog and the
last Fwp edge is behind foundation row edge
and back lps of these rows are adjacent.
Join right corners by inserting larger hook
through blo of foundation ch, picking up
live lp and drawing through. Working in
blo of foundation ch and last Fwp row, sl
st seam (see Glossary) next 9 sts, working
in blo of foundation ch only, sl st loosely
in next 10 sts, sk next 12 sts on Fwp edge,
working in blo of foundation ch and last
Fwp row, sl st seam in each st across.
Turn work so that cuff opening is up.

Yarn Universal Yarn Little Bird (100%


acrylic, 344 yd [314 m]/3 oz [100 g];
):
#105 wee violet (A), #106 go go coral (B),
1 skein each.
Hook Size H/8 (5 mm). Adjust hook size if
necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions St marker (m); yarn needle.
Gauge 4 reps = 414" in double mesh patt.

Edging:

Row 1A: (RS) With A, sk 8 ch, sk and mark


next ch, sk 1 more ch (10 ch skipped, counts
as 4 foundation ch, 1 dc, 3 ch), dc in 11th ch
from hook, *ch 3, sk 3 foundation ch, dc in
next ch; rep from * to end, do not turn.
With RS facing, join B with sl st in marked st.
Row 1B: (RS) Ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and 3
ch), working behind previous color A row,
dc in same st as joining sl st, *sk 3 foundation ch (including the one with a color A
st in it), working in front of previous color
A row, dc in next ch, ch 3, working behind
previous color A row, dc in same st as last
dc; rep from * to last 2 foundation ch, sk
last 2 foundation ch, turn.
Note: From this point forward, sts are always
worked into same-color sts. So, you will
never work a color A st into a color B st.
Row 2A: (WS) With A, ch 6 (counts as 1 dc
and 3 ch), *dc in next dc, ch 3; rep from *
to end, dc in last sp, do not turn.
Row 2B: (WS) With B, ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and
3 ch), working behind previous color A row, dc
in first ch-3 sp, *working in front of previous
color A row, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, working
behind previous color A row, dc in same ch-3

FINISHING
Thumb opening edging:
Rnd 1: With larger hook, join yarn with sl st to
base of thumb opening. Working in blo, work
24 sc evenly around, sl st in first sc to join.
Rnd 2: Working in blo, sl st in each sc
around, sl st in first sl st to join.
Weave in ends.

BASKERVILLE COWL
Jill Wright

Cowl is worked in 2 interlaced mesh


patts. This is achieved by working 1 row
in each color on RS, then 1 row in each
color on WS. The color to be used for
each row is indicated immediately after
the row number.
When changing colors, do not cut yarn.
Instead, place a removable st marker
in the last lp to keep it from raveling.
Replace hook in that lp when its time to
work with that color again.

Double mesh patt (multiple of 4


sts + 3, minimum 15):

Stitch Key
= slip stitch
(sl st)
= chain (ch)

Pattern
COWL
With A, ch 79.
Work in double mesh patt (see Stitch
Guide) until piece measures 36", ending
after a WS color B row.

Join:

Stitch Guide

You may sew tog the top and bottom edges


of cowl, or work the foll 2 joining rows for
an invisible seam:
Join Row A: (RS) With A, ch 3, sl st in first
3 skipped foundation ch (including the one
with a color B st in it), *dc in next dc on current row, sl st in next 3 skipped foundation
sts; rep from * to end, dc in last sp, sl st in
last foundation ch. Fasten off.
Join Row B: (RS) With B, ch 4 (counts as
1 dc and 1 ch), sl st in first foundation ch
with a color B st in it, ch 1, remove hook
from lp being careful not to ravel it, push
lp to back of work, replace hook in lp,
bring a few inches of attached yarn to the
back with it, dc in first ch-3 sp on current
row, remove hook from lp, push lp to front
of work bringing any excess yarn back with
it, replace hook in lp, *dc in next ch-3 sp
on current row, ch 1, sl st in next foundation ch with a color B st in it, ch 1, remove
hook, push lp to back of work, replace
hook in lp, bring a few inches of attached
yarn to the back with it, dc in same ch-3 sp
as last dc worked on current row, remove
hook, push lp to front of work bringing any
excess yarn back with it, replace hook in
lp; rep from * to end, sl st in last foundation ch. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.

Double Mesh Pattern


2B
repeat

Working in row-ends, sc around, sl st in


first sc to join. Fasten off.

Notes

sp as last dc; rep from * to end, turn.


Rep Rows 2A and 2B only for double mesh
patt.

2A

= double
crochet (dc)
1A

Universal Yarn Little Bird

1B

Getting Started
Finished Size 36" circumference and 19" wide.
114 Crochetscene

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4-st rep

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Once a popular Victorian magazine of knit, crochet,
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publishers in England. Now available as an extravagant
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Edition contains the rst six volumes of the series. Each
hardcover volume is comprised of 12 monthly issues.
There are roughly 16 categories and over 2,000 projects
included in this collection. In addition to knit and crochet,
each volume contains a variety of decorative needlework:
crewel, appliqu, cross-stitch, macram, smocking, bead
netting, and other lesser-known techniques. This box set
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Project Designers | our awesome contributors

SHELBY ALLAHO enjoys designing


unique accessories. She promotes the art
of crochet on her blog and through social
media. To read more about her adventures
in crochet, visit www.stitch-story.com.
BRENDA K. B. ANDERSON makes
mascots during the day. She cooks,
crochets, and belly dances at night. She
lives in a little house in St. Paul, Minnesota, with her awesome husband and
their hairy baby, Mr. Kittypants.
LORI CARLSON lives with her husband
in North Carolina. In addition to being a
thread crochet designer, she is a dedicated feline maintenance worker to five
cats, an accidental amateur lepidopterist,
and an intentionally mediocre horticulturist.
DORIS CHAN is a crochet designer and
author. When she is allowed to play with
colors (which is not often), the results
are very colorful. Catch up with her at
www.dorischancrochet.com and see her
independent designs exclusively at DesigningVashti.com.
LILY CHINS family history was just on
display at the New York Historical Societys
exhibit on Chinese immigration. It was
shown as a graphic novel and is now
traveling to Portland, Oregon; Seattle; and
Sacramento with plans to be overseas in China.
EDIE ECKMAN is the author of several
crochet books, including The Crochet
Answer Book (Storey). She lives near
Milepost Zero of the Blue Ridge Parkway
but teaches all over the countryand the
world, if you count online teaching. You can find her
online at www.edieeckman.com.
APRIL GARWOOD lives in Oklahoma
with her husband and four daughters.
She designs in crochet and knit, plays
with her spinning wheel, bakes sourdough bread, and homeschools her
children. Find out more about her work at
www.bananamoonstudio.com.
JILL HANRATTY lives, designs,
crochets, and sews in New Jersey.

116 Crochetscene

2015

Network Purse,
Page 24.

SUZANNE HIRTH is a crochet and knit


instructor and sales consultant at
Knitorious in St. Louis, Missouri. She
loves to promote crochet in her
community.
VICKIE HOWELL is the International
Spokesperson for Yarnspirations.com, Yarn
Arts Ambassador for Clover Needles, Inc.,
and author of Finger Knitting Fun. For more
info, go to www.vickiehowell.com.
ALLA KOVAL enjoys knitting and
crocheting at her bright studio in Seattle
with her best helperher adorable tiny
Chihuahua, Pixieon her lap.
DANIELA NII seeks new challenges with
every project and uses a diverse range of
techniques and media to produce designs
that highlight simplicity and elegance.
The founder of www.localfibers.com, she
blogs at www.nikkis-studio.com.

JENNIFER RAYMOND is a knit and


crochet designer who teaches up and
down the East Coast. Her designs have
appeared in several publications,
including PieceWork, Creative Knitting,
Interweave Crochet, and Knitty.

NATASHA ROBARGE experiments with


different techniques to achieve a modern
interpretation of traditional stitchery. Find
her patterns on www.ravelry.com and
www.crochetme.com.
JENNIFER E. RYAN loves to work
Celtic knots into her crochet designs. She
also loves to sing, dance, spend time
outdoors, photograph wildlife, and go for
bike rides. You can find her online at
www.celticknotcrochet.blogspot.com.

MARCY SMITH loves sitting down with a


pile of yarn, a handful of tools, and just
the barest glimmer of an idea of where it
might all lead.
NICOLETTA TRONCI is an Italian
crochet designer working on beautiful
Lake Como, where she finds serenity and
inspiration. She loves roomy tote bags
and slouchy purses. Her colorful designs
combine traditional stitches with unusual yarns and
fanciful embroidery patterns.
KATHRYN WHITE has a passion for
thread and lace crochet. Her goal is to
design fine crochet pieces that have a place
in todays world. Designing for me is a
dance between my soul and my hook, she
says. See more of her work at www.crochetnbeads.com.
JILL WRIGHT learned to crochet when
she was eight years old. Since then, Jills
love for crochet has increased exponentially. You can find her online at
www.woolcrafting.com.

get the

KIT

Tribbles Vests
sh

op

co
m

SUE PEREZ lives in Wisconsin. In winter


she eats and crochets, and in summer
she cycles and takes photos of wildflowers. She blogs all year long at
www.mrsmicawber.blogspot.com.

e.
.cro
m
t
e
ch

Tribbles Vests,
Page 48-49.

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117

How to Crochet | the basics

Crochet Basics
Welcome! If youre already hip to crochet, you can
probably skip this section and go straight to the glossary stitches on page 124. If youre new to crochet,
these step-by-step directions for the basic stitches
will get you going in no time! Grab your hook and
yarn, and lets get going.

Slipknot

Start your work with a slipknot, which will secure


your beginning chain.
Place the yarn over the hook .
Yarn over (yo) .
Pull the second loop (lp) through the first lp,
then pull tight .

Chain (ch)
The chain is worked the same way as the slipknot, except you dont pull it tight at the end.
To work several chains, tension the yarn by pulling it above the hook over your index finger. With
your thumb and middle finger, hold the end of the
chain strip to keep it taut .
Then, instead of wrapping the yarn over the hook,
pluck the yarn through the lp on the hook .
Although this method takes some practice, it will
result in more even chains.
First row of stitches: where to put the hook
Here is what the chain looks like:
You can work:
Under one loop (blo)  > This method sometimes results in a gap between the chain and
stitch. However, its useful when youre making
a project that calls for working across the other
side of the foundation chain.
Under two loops (blo + bottom ridge loop) 
>This method can cause a loopy edge. However,
it works well if youre adding an edging later or
plan to seam that edge.
Under the bottom ridge loop  > This method
offers a tidy way to work, because it leaves a
nice v edge.

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back loop
(blo)

bottom ridge
loop

front loop
(flo)

Single crochet (sc)

Insert hook into chain or stitch .


Yarn over and pull loop through st; you have two
loops on the hook .
Yarn over and pull loop
through both loops.

Done !

Treble stitch (tr)


Yarn over two times
before inserting hook.
Finish as for double
crochet.

Double treble
(dtr)

Yarn over three times


before inserting hook.
Finish as for double
crochet.

Half double crochet stitch (hdc)


Half double crochet makes a stitch thats taller than
a sc and shorter than a dc.
Yarn over and insert hook in stitch and pull up a
loop, as with a double crochet . Then, yarn over
and pull through all three loops on the hook .

Double crochet (dc)


Yarn over  and insert hook into chain or stitch.

Yarn over and pull loop through stitch; you have three
loops on the hook .
Yarn over and pull loop through two loops .
Yarn over and pull through two loops again. Done !
Once you learn double crochet, you can make your
stitches taller and taller by simply adding a yarn over
before inserting the hook. Then, pull through two loops
at a time until you have one loop left on the hook.

Slip stitch (sl st)


The slip stitch is the shortest of the stitches. Its
often used to sneak over a few stitches when a
pattern calls for making the next row shorter, as
with an armhole. (You can make a project entirely in
slip stitches, but thats a technique for another day.)
To work a slip stitch, insert the hook under the chain
or stitch and yarn over as for a single crochet .
Then pull the loop through the stitch and through
the loop on the hook. Presto flatto .

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How to Crochet | the basics

Foundation single crochet stitch (fsc)

Motifs

The foundation single crochet stitch is a little fancy. Its a


way of working your chain and first row at the same time. It
makes a slightly stretchy foundation row, which is great for
a garment.
Chain 2. Insert hook in first chain. Yarn over and pull
through the stitch and one loop .
Yarn over and pull through two loops .
For the second foundation single crochet, insert hook
under two loops at base of previous stitch .
Yarn over and pull through one loop .
Yarn over and pull through two loops .
Continue working this way until you have the number of
stitches called for in the first row (this number will be
fewer than the number of chains called for). You can use
this foundation stitch to work foundation half double crochet and foundation double crochet as well.

Motifs worked in the round call for a different sort of start than
the flat chain. There are two main ways to work this beginning.

Adjustable ring
You use the adjustable ring when you want the center of a
circle to be as small as possible.
Wrap the yarn over your finger, then slide it off, keeping the
loop intact . Insert the hook into the loop and chain 1 to
secure . Work stitch as directed, working around yarn loop;
here, were working single crochet .
Join to the first stitch with a slip stitch.
Pull the tail to tighten .

Chain loop center

This center cant be tightened. It provides a stable base


for the motif.
Crochet the number of chains indicated .
Join to the first chain with a slip stitch .
Insert hook in circle and chain 1 .
Continue working as indicated in pattern .

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Seaming

Mattress-stitch seam

For the most seemly seams, use one of these methods:

Mattress stitch is excellent for joining garment pieces.


Lay garment pieces side by side, RS up. Cut a length of
yarn as long as your arm and thread onto tapestry needle.
To secure the end, insert the needle from the top of right
side to the back and from the back of left side to the top
. Repeat to create a tiny stitch.
Working stitch in from edge, insert needle into right
side, from front to back, and push needle from back to
front to emerge about inch away .
Insert needle into left side parallel to the point where
needle emerged on right side, from front to back, and push
needle from back to front about inch away .
Continue alternating right and left sides, weaving the
seaming yarn from side to side  and .
After about six stitches, pull the end of the seaming yarn
to draw stitches taut, but not so tight that they pucker the
seam. The seaming yarn disappears !
Continue sewing and occasionally pulling taut the seaming
yarn until pieces are joined.

Slip-stitch seam
The slip-stitch seam is a terrific go-to seaming method
that works well for all sorts of projects because its sturdy.
Its not the best choice for lacy garments.
Hold project pieces with right sides (RS) together, with the
edges meeting. Secure the end of the seaming yarn. Holding the yarn to the back and the hook to the front, insert
hook through both layers of fabric, pull up loop, pull both
ends through loop .
Insert hook 1 to 2 stitches to the left of the hook, through
both layers.
Yarn over, pull up loop from back and through loop on hook.
Continue slip stitching down the side until pieces are connected .

Whipstitch seam
The whipstitch seam is good for amigurumi and similar
projects. However, its not the best choice for garments.
Place pieces to be joined with right sides together. Cut
a length of yarn as long as your arm, and thread it onto
tapestry needle. Insert needle from back to front through
both fabric edges . To secure end, insert needle at same
spot to create a small stitch
.
Insert needle 1 to 2
stitches up, from back
to front. Pull gently to
tighten to avoid puckering
the seam .
Continue sewing up the
sides of the two pieces.


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How to Crochet | the basics

Working into a stitch

Surface crochet

There are three ways to insert your hook into a stitch:


under both loops, under the back loop only (blo), and under
the front loop only (flo).
Under both loops 
Back loop only 
Front loop only 
*You can also work around the post of a stitch rather than
into the top to create textured stitches. Youll find examples of these post stitches in our glossary.

Surface crochet lets you create a design on the top of the


fabric. Essentially, youre working a slip stitch in the middle
of the fabric.
Hold yarn to back of fabric . Insert hook from front and
pull up a loop .
Insert hook from front to back about one stitch over. Yarn
over and pull through yarn from back  and through loop
on hook .
Continue in this way until your design is complete.


Weaving in ends
Number one rookie tip: leave your tails at least six inches
long! Too-short tails lead to little yarn ends poking around
your project. Six inches will give you enough length to
thread the yarn onto a needle and work it through some
stitches.
For beginning tails, you can hold the yarn end close to the
top of the stitches and work over them.
For end tails, youll need to weave the tails into the fabric.
Thread yarn tail onto needle.
Insert needle through the middle of the stitches . Check
both sides to ensure that youre working through the
stitches and not leaving a long bit on the opposite side.
Pull needle through .
Insert the needle one thread over, under the same stitches. Pull the needle through.

Concentration Levels
At the top of each pattern, youll see one to four
dots. This indicates the concentration level of the
project. We use concentration levels because it
better conveys the attention the projects requires. For instance, a project using mostly chain
stitch may be easy, but if youre working it in
thread, it requires more concentration. Heres a
description of those concentration levels.

Little concentration required.

Straightforward stitching means your hands can


work on autopilot.

Some concentration required.

Easily memorized stitch patterns and minimalshaping might require some focus and counting.

Fair amount of focus required.

Involved stitch patterns, shaping, or assembly require fairly constant concentration.

1



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Extreme focus required.

Unusual techniques or complex stitch patterns and


shaping require constant focus.

Gauge

Wet blocking

Gauge is the ratio of stitches and rows to a given measurement, usually 4 inches square. At the top of each pattern,
youll see the gauge given for that project. Nobodys gauge
is quite like yours; its unique to you and the way you hold
your hook and tension your yarn. Its a reflection, too, of
your mood and crochet comfort level. The gauge given in
the pattern is a reflection of the designers tension and
crochet style. The goal is to get these two gauges as close
as possible. Matching the gauge given for a project is
especially important when youre making a garment; its
less important when youre making an accessory or homedecoration project.
To measure your unique gauge, crochet a swatch in the
stitch pattern designated for the project. The swatch
should measure at least 4 inches square, to allow for any
curling or wonkiness at the swatch edges.
Measure 4 inches side to side and top to bottom of the
swatch, centering the 4-inch portion so that youre away
from the edges. Now count the number of stitches and the
number of rows within that 4-inch square. Compare your
numbers to the numbers given for the gauge in the project.
If you have more stitches than the gauge given, your tension is tighter than the designers, and you should try a
larger hook.
If you have fewer stitches than the gauge given, your tension is looser than the designers, and you should try a
smaller hook.

Wet blocking is absolutely necessary for lace projects and


may be necessary for garments. Youll need:
a clean bin (Note: If youre using a sink, be sure to wash
it first! Facial cleansers and moisturizers can cling to the
sink and damage the yarn.)
tepid water
thick towels
rust-proof pins
blocking board or playmat (Note: If you dont have a
mat, you can use a thick towel as a base, but be aware
that the pins wont hold as securely.)
a no-rinse wash (Note: Although this wash is optional,
its desirable for fabric that may have seen some travels
while you were crocheting it.)
Submerge the project in the water and let sit at least 15
minutes, so all the fibers are saturated. Then, lift the
project out; do not wring the fabric! Place on a thick towel.
Fold the towel over and squeeze gently to remove excess
water. Place blocking board in a place where neither
kitties nor kiddies will disturb it. Pin project to blocking
board to desired dimensions and let dry. Lace will open up
dramatically, so you can admire your work while it dries.
For more details on blocking shawls, see crochetme.com.

Steam blocking
Steam blocking works well when youre primarily just
smoothing out the stitchwork. Youll need:
an ironing board or similar hard surface (the floor or a
table works in a pinch)
a thick towel
a steam iron

Blocking
Blocking is the magic that brings crochet projects to life.
In the course of crocheting, the fabric can become lumpy.
Blocking not only smooths out the stitches, but also makes
the fabric pliable so you can shape it to size. There are two
basic types of blocking: steam blocking and wet blocking.
The method you use depends on the type of project.

rust-proof pins
Lay the towel down and place your project on top. Hold the
iron about an inch above the fabric (do not touch the iron to
the crochet) and blast it with steam. Move across the fabric, blasting steam until youve covered the surface, paying
particular attention to the edges. Now, pin the project at
the edges to the desired measurements and let dry. Done!

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123

How to Crochet | glossary

Adjustable ring

Foundation Single Crochet (fsc)

Place slipknot on hook, leaving a 4" tail. Wrap tail around


fingers to form ring. Work stitches of first round into
ring. At end of first round, pull tail to tighten ring.

Start with a slipknot on hook, chain 2 (Figure 1), insert


hook in 2nd chain from hook, yarn over and pull up loop,
yarn over and draw through 1 loop (the chain, Figure 2),
yarn over and draw through 2 loops (the single crochet),
1 sc with its own ch st (shaded) at the bottom (Figure 3),
*insert hook under 2 loops of the ch st (shaded) of last
st (Figure 4) and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through
1 loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops; repeat from *
for length of foundation (Figure 5).

Back Post Double Crochet


(BPdc)
Yarn over, insert hook from back to
front to back around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over
and pull up loop, [yarn over and draw
through 2 loops on hook] 2 times1
BPdc completed.

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog)


[Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull
up loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 2 times,
yarn over and draw through all loops on hook1 stitch
decreased.

Figure 3

Figure 2

Figure 1

Figure 4

Figure 5

Double Crochet Three Together (dc3tog)


[Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull
up loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 3 times (4
loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all loops on
hook2 stitches decreased.

Front Post Single Crochet (FPsc)


Insert hook from front to back to front around post of
corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop,
yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.

Double Crochet Four Together (dc4tog)


[Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull
up loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 4 times,
yarn over and draw through all loops on hook3 stitches
decreased.

Double Crochet Five Together (dc5tog)


[Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull
up loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 5 times,
yarn over, draw through all loops on hook4 stitches
decreased.

Double Treble Crochet (dtr)


Yarn over 3 times, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over
and pull up loop (5 loops on hook), [yarn over and draw
through 2 loops] 4 times1 dtr completed.

Extended Single Crochet (esc)


Insert hook in next stitch or chain, yarn over and pull up
loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 1 loop
(1 chain made), yarn over and pull through 2 loops1 esc
completed.

Extended Double Crochet (edc)


Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch or chain, yarn over
and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw
through 1 loop (1 chain made), [yarn over and draw
through 2 loops] 2 times1 edc completed.

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Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc)


Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around
post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull
up loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 2
times1 FPdc completed.

Mattress
Stitch
With RS facing,
use threaded
Figure 1
needle to *bring
Figure 2
the needle through
the center of the first stitch or post on one piece, then
through the center of the corresponding stitch or post of
the other piece; repeat from * to end of seam.

Reverse Single Crochet (rev sc)


Working from left to right, insert crochet hook in an edge
stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw
through both loops on hook (starting single crochet),
*insert hook in next stitch to right (Figure1), yarn over and
pull up loop, yarn over (Figure 2) and draw through both
loops on hook (Figure 3); repeat from *.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

How to Crochet | glossary

Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog)

Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss)

Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop


(2 loops on hook), insert hook in next stitch, yarn over
and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw
through all 3 loops on hook1 stitch decreased.

Tss forward pass (FwP): *With yarn in back, insert hook

Slip-Stitch Seam
Begin by placing the pieces with right sides together.
Hold the pieces in your hand with the two edges facing you. Attach the yarn by inserting your hook through
both pieces at beginning of the seam, yarn over, pulling
up a loop, yarn over and drawing through loop on hook
(chaining 1). Work slip stitches, inserting your hook
through both pieces at the same time, from front to
back, and pulling up the yarn from behind. Complete the
seam and secure the seaming yarn.

Treble Three Together (tr3tog)


[Yarn over 2 times, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over
and pull up loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops on
hook) 2 times] 3 times, yarn over and draw through all 4
loops on hook2 stitches decreased.

Tunisian Knit Stitch (tks)


Tks forward pass (Fwp): Skip first vertical bar, with yarn
in back, *insert hook between next vertical bar under
horizontal strands (Figure 1), yarn over and pull up loop,
leave loop on hook; repeat from * to end, ending with 1
loop on hook; return pass.

Return pass (RetP): Yarn over and draw loop through


first loop on hook, *yarn over and draw through 2 loops
on hook; repeat from * across (Figure 2), ending with 1
loop onhook.
Figure 2

from right to left behind front vertical bar (Figure 1),


yarn over and pull up loop (Figure2), leave loop on hook;
repeat from * to last vertical bar at edge, pick up front
and back loops of last bar to create firm edge; return
pass.

Return pass (RetP): Yarn over and draw through first loop
on hook, *yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (Figure 3); repeat from * to end, ending with 1 loop on hook.

Figure 2

Figure 1

Figure 3

Tunisian Simple Stitch


Two Together (tss2tog)
Insert hook under next 2 vertical bars, yarn over and pull up
loop1 stitch decreased.

Whipstitch Seams
Place pieces with right sides together. Hold pieces with
the 2 edges facing you.

Step 1: Secure seaming yarn on wrong side of one


piece. Pass needle through pieces from back to front at
start of seam. This creates a small stitch to begin seam.

Figure 1

Step 2: A little farther left, pass needle through pieces,


again from back to front, wrapping seam edge.

Tunisian Purl Stitch (tps)


Tps Forward pass (FwP): With yarn in front, *insert hook
from right to left behind front vertical bar, yarn over and
pull up loop (see Figure), leave loop on hook; repeat from *
to last vertical bar at edge, pick up front and back loops of
last bar to create firm edge; return pass.

Repeat Step 2 to complete seam. Secure end of seaming


yarn.

Return pass (RetP): Yarn over and draw loop through first
loop on hook, *yarn over and draw though 2 loops on hook;
repeat from * to end, ending with 1 loop on hook.

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How to Crochet | glossary/sources

Abbreviations
beg
bet
blo
CC
ch
cm
cont
dc
dtr
dec(s)(d)
est
fdc
flo
foll
fsc
g
hdc
inc(s)(d)
k
lp(s)
MC
m
mm
patt(s)
pm
p
rem
rep
rev sc
rnd(s)
RS
sc
sk
sl
sl st
sp(s)
st(s)
tch
tog
tr
WS
yd
yo
*
()
[]

begin(s); beginning
between
back loop only
contrasting color
chain
centimeter(s)
continue(s); continuing
double crochet
double treble crochet
decrease(s); decreasing; decreased
established
foundation double crochet
front loop only
follows; following
foundation single crochet
gram(s)
half double crochet
increase(s); increasing; increased
knit
loop(s)
main color
marker
millimeter(s)
pattern(s)
place marker
purl
remain(s); remaining
repeat; repeating
reverse single crochet
round(s)
right side
single crochet
skip
slip
slip(ped) stitch
space(es)
stitch(es)
turning chain
together
treble crochet
wrong side
yard
yarn over hook
repeat starting point
alternate measurements
and/or instructions
work bracketed instructions a
specified number of times

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Standard Yarn
Weight System
Yarn: Fingering,
10-count crochet thread
Gauge*: 3340 sts
Hook (metric): 1.52.25 mm
Hook (U.S.): 000 to 1
Yarn: Sock, Fingering, Baby
Gauge*: 2132 sts
Hook (metric): 2.253.5 mm
Hook (U.S.): B-1 to E-4
Yarn: Sport, Baby
Gauge: 1620 sts
Hook (metric): 3.54.5 mm
Hook (U.S.): E-4 to G-7

Yarn: DK, Light Worsted


Gauge: 1217 sts
Hook (metric): 3.54.5 mm
Hook (U.S.): G-7 to I-9
Yarn: Worsted, Afghan, Aran
Gauge: 1114 sts
Hook (metric): 5.56.5 mm
Hook (U.S.): I-9 to K-1012
Yarn: Chunky, Craft, Rug
Gauge: 811 sts
Hook (metric): 6.59 mm
Hook (U.S.): K-1012 to M-13
Yarn: Bulky, Roving
Gauge: 59 sts
Hook (metric): 9 mm and larger
Hook (U.S.): M-13 and larger

The Craft Yarn Council has set up guidelines to bring uniformity


to yarn labels and published patterns. The yarn weight symbols
that appear in the patterns are based on the system outlined
above. We have consulted the yarn label, the manufacturers
website, and other resources, to classify these yarns as
accurately as possible. We continue to offer photos of each yarn
to help you visualize the yarns used.
*Guidelines only: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle
or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

Yarn Sources
Berroco Yarn, www.berroco.com.
Brown Sheep Company, brownsheep.com.
Cascade Yarns, www.cascadeyarns.com.
Creative Yarn Source, www.creativeyarnsource.com.
Garnstudio, www.garnstudio.com.
Handy Hands, www.hhtatting.com.
Lion Brand Yarns, www.lionbrand.com.
Lornas Laces, www.lornaslaces.net.
Madelinetosh, www.madelinetosh.com.
Misti Alpaca, www.mistialpaca.com.
Plymouth Yarn, www.plymouthyarn.com
Shibui, www.shibuiknits.com.
Skacel, www.skacelknitting.com.
Spinrite, www.yarnspirations.com/bernat.
Stonehedge Fiber Mill, www.stonehedgefibermill.com.
Universal Yarn, www.universalyarn.com.
WEBS, www.yarn.com.
Westminster Fibers, www.westminsterfibers.com.

Bow Wrap,
Page 84.

Crochet Marketplace | Visit these fine retailers


ALASKA

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We are a full-service yarn shop catering to
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The Yarn Store at Knob Hill


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Join us for Open Knitting anytime during
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OREGON

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The premier location for your fiber needs
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CALIFORNIA

Theres always
more online

PENNSYLVANIA

A Yarn Less RaveledDanville


www.ayarnlessraveled.com
Everything you need for your knit/crochet
projects beautiful yarns, patterns, needles, notions, and support to make your
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BOOKS
MAGAZINES
DVDs
AND MORE

www.oncearound.com
The felting, stamping, embroidery, fabricpainting, wreathmaking, embossing, scrapbooking, decoupage, candle-craf ting,
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352 Miller Ave.
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Uncommon ThreadsLos Altos

ADVERTISERS
INDEX
Cascade Yarns ................................... 5
Denise Interchangeable
Knitting & Crochet ........................... 33

www.uncommonthreadsyarn.com
Beautiful yarns from around the world.
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IDAHO

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Friendly service and inviting atmosphere.
Come in and see, or shop online, our large
selection of yarn, needles, and accessories.
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ILLINOIS

Wool, Warp & WheelRichmond


Green Mountain Spinnery ................. 37
Interweave ...11, 13, 15, 33, 45, 55, 59,
63, 65, 67, 71, 81, 83, 109, 111, 115,
C2, C3
Kelbourne Woolens (The Fibre Co) .... 33
LoveKnitting.com .............................C4
Mango Moon ..................................... 37
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www.woolwarpandwheel.com
Spinning, weaving, and knitting supplies
and equipment. TueFri 7pm9pm, Sat
Sun 105.
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INDIANA

Knitting Off Broadway


Fort Wayne
www.knittingoffbroadway.com
Located in a restored 1890s building, this
full-service yarn store specializes in unique
and hard to-find fibers.
1309 Broadway
(260) 422-YARN

Want to drive more


foot traffic to your shop?
Try a Shop Directory Listing. Email Tina
Hickman at tina.hickman@fwcommunity.com
or call her at

970-613-4697

www.naturalstitches.com
Best selection of natural fibers in Pittsburgh. Knowledgeable staff. Open 7 days.
Evenings, too!
6401 Penn Ave.
(412) 441-4410

TENNESSEE

Once AroundMill Valley

Shop.

Natural StitchesPittsburgh

Smoky Mountain Spinnery


Gatlinburg
www.smokymountainspinnery.com
Come see our newly expanded 3000 sq.
ft. shop spinning, weaving, knitting, crocheting, felting and rug hooking gifts and
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466 Brookside Village Wy., Ste. 8
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WASHINGTON

Paradise FibersSpokane
www.paradisefibers.com
Terrific selection of wool yarn, knitting
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or stop in. Same-day shipping!
225 W. Indiana Ave.
(509) 536-7746

EVENTS
SAN DIEGO YARN CRAWL: Third annual
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www.sandiegoyarncrawl.com.

NORTH JERSEY FIBER ARTS FESTIVAL.


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Facebook.com/NorthJerseyFiberArtsFestival.

WEBSITES TO VISIT:
A b u n d a n t

Y a r n

O n l i n e

www.abundant-yarn.com.100 luscious yarn


lines. User friendly website and service.
Try us! (866) 873-0580

WWW.HEIRLOOMCROCHET.COM. This is
where you will find a large selection of vintage
and antique crochet and lacemaking books on
CD. We also sell fine crochet hooks, threads,
and supplies.
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Back Page | Interweave Crochet fall preview

Fall 2015

THE
WAITING IS
SO HARD
Coming 9/15

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