Article Written by Frah Mukhtar

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Architecture is an index of society. We can gauge when a society
reached its pinnacle and when it declined by studying architecture.
Studying buildings, gives an in depth review of the mindset of
people of an era. It tells what is valuable for them.
For a research project, I visited Noor Jahans Tomb complex
frequently during the past few weeks. I was required to document
the structure in photographs. While photographing, I went through a
four dimensional experience, that is hard to express in words. One
prime dimension was the architectural appreciation of the structure,
of course, but that is just a fraction of what my mind was going
through.
A brief history of this old monument might be helpful here; the tomb
was constructed on orders of Mughal Queen, Noor Jahan in her life.
She died in 1645 and was buried here. The tomb was surrounded
by a beautifully manicured garden. The tomb complex, that also
includes Emperor Jahangirs tomb, suffered at the collapse of
Mughal Empire, when it was looted by Sikh invaders. It suffered
further damage when used as a residence, first for the French
officer to the Sikh ruler, Ranjit Singh and later by Sultan Muhammad
Khan. Under British rule, the gardens suffered badly when a railway

track was built by cutting Noor Jahans tomb from the rest of the
garden.

The question that irked my mind was of the motivation behind

construction of such a personalized monument. Was the public at
that time leading an ideal life? Were there no public issues to be
taken care of? Was this the only best way to spend public money?
What does the complex symbolize? Power of a single family? This
bitterness in thoughts just boils when I compare these structures to
not very different structures of todays elite. Todays palaces of the
ruling elite can be directly traced back to these historic monuments
of personalized glory. They have a quite traceable lineage to them
and speak volumes of the ruling elites non existent concern for
public interest. We have inherited all this, and are least concerned
to change it. People of that era had left the rule in one familys

hands, thinking that the throne was a birth right of that family.
Situation is not very different even today.

Trying to trace any public interest through architecture of that era,

we come across a very few buildings, if any, that were directly
intended for public use. We have ruins of palaces, remains of forts,
tombs and mausoleums that were constructed to glorify individuals.
Even the masjids were dedicated to the royals. Tombs and
mausoleums were constructed to lay homage and respect to the
favorites of the royals only.

Now, the point is, everyone loves his or her family, friends and pets.
It is innate human nature to develop strong bonds, fall in love, grow
profound fondness, affection, gratitude and a multitude of positive
emotions. But that simply does not justify absurd amounts of public
money being invested in building monumental structures just to
satisfy a single persons emotions, and that too by the sheer
pressure of power.

Noor Jahans tomb was designed to create a sad aura. The aura
still prevails. These famous Persian verses have rather turned into a
curse.

The dilapidated condition of the structure has turned the intended

degree of sadness into a much darker shade of gray. Walls have
been ripped off the original sandstone. The two restored elevations
have been smeared with chalking, deep scratches and posters.
Gaping holes in walls wail sad stories. The roof top has been
plastered with new mortar. The once marble jali work has been
replaced with cement-sand jali. The stairs scream and repel you
from climbing up, making you want to turn back. This makes one
wonder, that even in its time, what purpose did this structure serve,
other than an urge to glorify oneself?
One thing that strikingly matched the structures condition was the
conversation of street kids who were aimlessly loitering around.
Crude words, dirty slang and corrosive abuses dotted every
sentence they spoke among themselves. We as a society are least
concerned about our collective future. Just like we are negligent to
out heritage, we are negligent to the tender minds we are supposed
to prune. The tombs present condition clearly shows our ignorance
to develop a sense of belonging, lack of interest to bring any
refinement in our approach towards collective affairs and to bring a

positive change. The conservation and preservation of structures,

that were already erected merely for personal reasons is a far cry
from practicality. For me, monumental structures built by public
money, to express personal glory or grief are far shorter in stature
than a mud house built by hand to settle ones family and give them
shelter.

If the tomb crumbles today under its own weight, let it crumble. It will
not make much difference to the lives of people in general. It never
really mattered anyway. Sabotage and collapse of a comparatively

newer Zyarat Residence, far superior in importance didnt even

spark any suitable reaction. The homeless drug addicts dwelling in
and around the dingy complex will find another shelter. In a country,
where food and clean water dont make their way to the priority list,
conservation is an alien term. The railway line that crosses the
garden, has served the public more than these tombs.
The author can be contacted at:frah.mukhtar@gmail.com