Conde Nast 2014 01 IN PDF

On the cover
Contents
38 Readers Travel Awards 2013 We reveal the
170 Sonam Kapoor presents Mumbai Masala
141 Where to feast in Dubai Alisha Patel tells
182 The best island hideaways on the Great
158 Bangkoks shopping secrets Bollywood
192 Snow-kissed Gulmarg The future looks bright
winners of this years RTA, voted for by you,

the Cond Nast Traveller reader
you which culinary hotspots to check out

on your next visit to the emirate
costume designer Niharika Bhasin Khan reveals

the Thai capitals off-the-beaten-track gems
photograph: tom parker
Dec-Jan 2013-14
A self-confessed foodies guide to Maximum City.

Words by Prasad Ramamurthy
Barrier Reef Mark Chipperfield finds an isle to

suit everyone in this Australian eco-system
for Kashmir, with more and more adventure

seekers hitting its ski slopes, finds Rebecca Byerly
The Khyber Himalayan

Resort & Spa, Gulmarg
Dec-Jan 2013-14 Cond Nast traveller 13
Contents
Dec-Jan 2013-14
In this issue
32 First Word Hindi cinema has

36
73
99
113
113
158 212
inspired us to create our own

magical moments across the
world, says Rajeev Masand
Informer Kiran Rao on how
her marriage to Aamir Khan
and motherhood have changed
the way she travels
Agenda From rocking
nightclubs to laid-back lounge
bars, Anushka Patodia presents
the worlds greatest places to
party; Imtiaz Ali shares the
experiences that shaped his
upcoming road trip film, Highway
Plus Sunayana Kumari reveals
how you can step into the world
of your favourite TV characters
Word of mouth Whats hot
around the world, from film
festivals to Goas buzzing
Ashwem-Morjim stretch
Where to stay Meet the stars
who have enthralled the world
125
149
168
with their films and are now

impressing everyone with
their hospitality; exclusive
sneak peeks at the new Chedi
Andermatt and The Wind Munnar
Plus Room Service Madrid
View The Hindi film industry
has a remarkable ability to unite
the people of India and Pakistan,
says Fatima Bhutto; an airport
face-off between Mumbais T2
and New Delhis T3; the business of
Bollywood, by Prasad Ramamurthy;
and Seema Goswami decodes the
Virgin Atlantic look
Wear to go Destination-inspired
film posters for Fall/Winter 2013s
collections; our selection of the
seasons rough and tough watches
Plus Jewels worn by the stars
Diary What in the world is
happening this season
202 Dance the night away

212
214
216
225
Juan Madrid reveals his insiders

tango guide to Buenos Aires
Experts Three directors
reveal where theyd film their
dream scenes
RSVP CNT and Grand Hyatt
Mumbai marked 30 years of
the groups arrival in India
Contest Win a three-night
holiday in Thailand
That was then Woody Allens
Manhattan, 1979
226 Room with a view
andBeyond Ngorongoro Crater

Lodge, Tanzania
102
THIS ISSUES COVER
Sonam Kapoor outside The
Oberoi, Mumbai, on Marine Drive
Photograph by Tom Parker. Styling
Rhea Kapoor. Hair and make-up
Namrata Soni. On Sonam
Kapoor: T-shirt, Zara. Skirt, Shift
by Nimish Shah. Slippers, Ragini
Ahuja. Earrings, Viange
16 Cond Nast Traveller Dec-Jan 2013-14
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID BUTOW/CORBIS; ITP IMAGES
141
Grande Seconde Quantime, ref. J007030245

Ctes de Genve dial and blue opaline flange. Stainless steel case.
Self-winding mechanical movement. Power reserve of 68 hours.
W W W. J AQ U E T- D ROZ .CO M - Contact: (91) 11 4609 2943

Bangalore - Ethos Luxury Boutique, Tel (080) 4113 0611 - Chennai - The Helvetica, Tel (044) 2846 4095/96 - Kolkata Prime Watch World, Tel (033) 2283 7185
New Delhi - Johnson Watch Co. Connaught Place, Tel (011) 4151 3110 - Johnson Watch Co. South Extension, Tel (011) 2464 2299/55
www.cntraveller.in
Log on for the latest travel news, deals and recommendationsas well as destination guides to the
hottest cities in India and around the world
BEHIND-THE-SCENES WITH
SONAM KAPOOR
VISIT
SANTA THIS
CHRISTMAS
In this video, the stylish actress (and CNT cover

girl) talks about her favourite films shot in Mumbai
and the quintessential city experiences that visitors
should not miss out on.
Put on your coat

and pack some
gifts; were going
to surprise Santa
this year. Read
our guide to
visiting Lapland,
and getting
the complete
Christmas
experience
reindeer and all.
Join us at Around the World with Cond Nast

Travellera series of workshops that recreate
magical experiences from across the world. Get
more details on our Facebook page.
2013S TOP 10
TRAVEL MOMENTS
From the freezing Tundra to the untamed Amazon, its the extremes
that inspire this actor to travel. The Bollywood star shares his dream
destinations, fantasy trips and tells us how films can shape journeys.
FOLLOW US ON
Join the CNT community and get
access to unseen images, destination
guides, travel updates and more.
facebook.com/cntravellerindia
FREE APP
The Luxury
Guide to India
Get up-to-date information

on 18 cities. Free on App
Store & BlackBerry
World
READERS TRAVEL AWARDS 2013 RESULTS INSIDE!
THE LAST WORD

IN TRAVEL
Get the very best travel news and

deals on your timeline. Talk to us on
Twitter @CN_Traveller_In
DEC-JAN 2013-14 | 150
INDIAN EDITION
Film & Travel
How movies make us go around the world: magical settings,

dreamy itineraries and celebrity escapes
Wherever
you go, take the
magazine with you!
Download our e-edition
by visiting www.zinio.com
or www.magzter.com;
it makes a great
paperless gift.
Sonams
Mumbai
Her favourite spots for chaat,
burgers and date nights
Sonam Kapoor outside

The Oberoi, Mumbai,
on Marine Drive
KIRAN RAO
SHOPPING IN
BANGKOK
Go beyond the malls
PLUS
DUBAIS COOLEST
RESTAURANTS
HITTING THE SKI
SLOPES IN GULMARG
AUSTRALIAS
GREAT BARRIER REEF
FATIMA BHUTTO SEEMA GOSWAMI IMTIAZ ALI
PHOTOGRAPHS: MARTIN PRIHODA; TOM PARKER; KIRSTIE TWEED/CORBIS
JOHN ABRAHAMS BUCKET LIST
What dates and events will we remember

from the year gone by? We list the most
significant moments in travel this year,
from the hits and misses to brave new
ventures and failed projects.
ASAYA
HOME DECOR
T h e e x c l u s i v e f r a n c h i s e s t o re f o r D D e c o r. A t L o k h a n d w a l a ro a d , n e a r
D'DECOR Galleries - DELHI- Kirti Nagar: Nirmals: 25193568. GURGAON - M.G. Road : Mo: 2565185. SURAT - Bhaga Talao: Drape Shoppe: 9825425526.
AGRA - Jain Furnishing: 9319103503. AHMEBABAD - S.G. Road: Raiff: 8866004222. Bharat Furnishing: 26872027. Navrangpura: Neptune House: 26565624. Off Swastik Cross Road: A D Furnishing: 26404648. Ashram Road: Kaypee
Corporation: 26577441. Dynamic House: 40035444. C.G. Road: Drape Shoppe: 66636661. AMRITSAR - Lawrence Road: Ganpati Exclusive: 9872989159. AURANGABAD - Sajawat Handloom: 2340340. Sheetal Furnishing: 2486777.
BANGALORE - Domlur Ring Road: Drapes Avenue: 25351550 / 40977040. Dickenson Road: Skipper Furnishings: 41134356/41134357. Indira Nagar: Petals: 40914782. Jaynagar: Floating Walls: 41510419. Drapes Avenue: 26639992.
Koramangala: Floating Walls: 41313117. Shivaji Nagar: Drapes Avenue: 25596506. Race Course Road: Petals: 22372244. BARODA - R.C. Dutt Road: Aavaran: 2313236. CHANDIGARH - Manimajra: Krishna Carpet Co.: 2733275. Sector
17/B: Krishna Carpet Co.: 2703001. CHENNAI - Neelangarai: Ode Interior: 24491455. COIMBATORE - R.S. Puram: Kwality :2551626. DELHI - Lajpatnagar: Jagdish Stores: 25710462. Harisons Furnishings: 45222700. Home-Saaz: 29845100.
Nirmals: 29848888. Sita Fabrics: 29837562. Jail Road: Nirmals: 25620587. Karol Bagh: Jagdish Stores: 43056000. Pitampura: Surprise Furnishings: 27019977. Shalimar Bagh: Harisons Furnishings: 47555000. DHULIA - Seema Handloom:
233287. GOA - Panjim: Boa Casa: 2225923. Porvorim: Adore: 6655891. GUWAHATI - Fancy Bazar: Ashoka Furnishing: 2514118. G.S. Road: Ashoka Furnishing: 2457801. Vinayak Furnishing: 9085077707. Hansha Bahini: 9707315852. HISSAR
- Madras Handloom: 227161. HYDERABAD - Ameerpet: Jaydurga Furnishing: 9391049852. Abid's Off Santosh Sapna Talkies: Drapes N More: 66787100. Banjara Hills: Mayaas Furnishings: 9246260884. Jubilee Hills: Studio Orion: 65344444.
Panjagutta Near Nagarjuna Circle: Skipper Furnishings: 30621171. INDORE - MT Cloth Market: Lalchand Hassanand: 9826077553. New Grah Shobha: 2574913. JAIPUR - Mirza Ismail Road: Ashoka Furnishing: 5119059. Near Panchvati
Circle: Goldendrape: 2604093. Vaishali Nagar: Casa Aaurum:4068333/34. Main Tonk Road : Krishna Floor and Furnishing : 9928600009. JALANDHAR - Opp. Lovely Street: Mansaram Mahajan: 5015805. KANPUR - 80 Feet Road: High Street:
www.ddecor.com
Embroidered Bedding Collection
YOUR ROOM NEXT?

Curtains | Upholstery | Wallpapers | Outdoor Fabrics
Kokilaben hospital, Andheri, Mumbai. Tel.: +91 22 6597 6677.

CHENNAI - Park Town: Vishvesh Textiles : 25359999. PUNE - Pimpri: Kukreja Handloom & Furnishings: 27410199.
3072333. KOCHI - Odds & Ends: 9846048215. Royal Furnishing - 9447665845. Diwaniya Furnishings: 2345672/73. KOTTAYAM - Elba : 9447179064. KOLKATA - Park Street: Times Furnishings: 30285858/59. Russell Street: Skipper: 40065353.
AJC Bose Road: Stellar Furnishings: 22902294/93. Homeland Mall: Mobel D'ffine: 9051027777. KOLHAPUR - Riddhi Curtain Handloom House:9890803230. KOZHIKODE - Kannur Road: In-Style Creation: 4021166. Puthiyara Road: Solid:
9846095599. LUCKNOW - Huzzainganj: Monarch-The Furnishings Gallery: 4159999. LUDHIANA - Pakhowal Road: Naveen Bharat Furnishings: 2432901. MUMBAI - Bandra: Novelty Furnishing: 67896900. Foam Palace: 26428146. Drape
Shoppe: 26487473. Borivali: Osaka Furnishings: 28612945. Dadar T.T.: A To Z Furnishings: 9833066415. Kemps Corner: Bharat Furnishing: 61456050. Gamdevi - The Home Fabric: 23823448/47. Malad: Novelty Furnishing: 28807331. Kings:
9833458044. Thane: Bharat Furnishing: 25806050. Vashi: Novelty Furnishing: 67891700. Wonders: 27896200. Vile Parle: Bharat Furnishing: 66804545. NAGPUR - Sita Burdi: Malik Dco House: 2526787. Residency Road: Jayshree Traders:
2525911. NASHIK - Sharanpur Road: Daffodils: 9823023245. NOIDA - Noida Handloom: 9810019728. PANIPAT - S.D. College Road: Prince Home Fashion: 2635392/2644837. D'Decor Factory Outlet: 9416019493. PANCHKULA - Sector No.
11: Gagan Handloom: 3918361. PATNA - New Dak Bunglow Road: Rama: 9431015695. PUNE - Off Laxmi Road: Kejals Furnishings: 24453776. M.G. Road: Themes Furnishing & Linen: 41405200. Karve Road: Premchand Furnishing:
25456969. Nana peth: Orchid Furnishing: 26056070. Ganesh peth: Softzone: 9822092629. Baner Road: Bharat Furnishing: 25657705/06. Aundh: Tulips: 25899784. RAIPUR - Pandri : Lifestyle Furnishing: 2582776. Sohan Sales: 522193.
Mahalaxmi Market: Novelty Furnishing: 9755588555. Sienna Dcor Essentials: 2429000. SURAT - Ghod Dod Road: The Decora: 2654234. Sanskriti Furnishing: 2232099. Thrissur - Paliyam Road: Chikkus curtains & Furnishing: 9847046911.
TRIVANDRUM - CFC : 9895245566. Available at HOME TOWN and other leading home furnishing stores.
EDITOR Divia Thani Daswani
PuBlIshIng DIREcTOR Arjun Mehra
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synDIcaTIOn ManagER Michelle Pereira
PuBlIshER Sunaina Talwar Khiani

aDVERTIsIng DIREcTOR Priya Singh
assOcIaTE aDVERTIsIng DIREcTOR Aditi Chaudhuri
sEnIOR accOunT ManagER Ritika Bhatnagar
aD salEs cOORDInaTOR Priyanka Gadoya
ITaly salEs REPREsEnTaTIVE Angelo Carredu
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aRT DIREcTOR Himanshu Lakhwani
FEaTuREs EDITOR Prasad Ramamurthy
assIsTanT aRT DIREcTOR Radhika Maheshwari

PhOTO EDITOR Katie Silcox
FEaTuREs wRITER Sunayana Kumari
lIFEsTylE wRITER Jasreen Mayal Khanna

cOPy EDITOR Anushka Patodia
assIsTanT synDIcaTIOn cOORDInaTORs Donna Leeks,
PRODucTIOn DIREcTOR Amit Navarange

PRODucTIOn ManagER Sunil Nayak
cOMMERcIal PRODucTIOn ManagER Sudeep Pawar

PRODucTIOn cOnTROllER Vijay Salunkhe
cOnTRIBuTIng EDITORs
Fatima Bhutto
Janhavi Acharekar
Richard Quest
Suketu Mehta
Vivek Menezes
William Dalrymple
cOnTRIBuTIng PhOTOgRaPhERs
David Crookes
Farrokh Chothia
Tom Parker
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Palani Mohan
Steve McCurry
assOcIaTE DIREcTOR - suBscRIPTIOns Bindu Nambiar

assIsTanT gEnERal ManagER - aDMInIsTRaTIOn
& suBscRIPTIOn OPERaTIOns Boniface Dsouza
assIsTanT ManagER suBscRIPTIOns Radhika Dani
PR ManagER Yasmin Ranijiwala
assIsTanT PR ManagER Manasi Golechha
assOcIaTE PROMOTIOns ManagER - aRT Neha Bedi
PROMOTIOns DEsIgnER Friyan Sutaria
PROMOTIOns wRITERs Kinjal Vora, Radhika Sen
cIRculaTIOn DIREcTOR Prem Abraham
assOcIaTE gEnERal ManagER (sOuTh) A T Surendran
aREa cIRculaTIOn ManagER Rohan Nair
aREa cIRculaTIOn ManagER (DElhI) Gaurav Gambhir
cIRculaTIOn cOORDInaTOR Jeeson Kollannur
FInancE DIREcTOR Vishandas Hardasani
FInancE cOnTROllER Amit Jain
sEnIOR accOunTanT Dattaprasanna Bhagwat
accOunTanTs Anthony Paulose, Nitin Chavan
hEaD - huMan REsOuRcEs Vandana C Tilwani
assIsTanT ManagER - huMan REsOuRcEs Disha Makharia
DIgITal DIREcTOR Marc-Oliver Hausen
DIgITal MaRkETIng ManagER Mayuri Nigam
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DIgITal salEs OPERaTIOns & sOluTIOns
ManagER Anitha Ramabhadran
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hEaD OF VIDEO PRODucTIOn Rohan Michael Hoole
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ManagIng DIREcTOR Alex Kuruvilla

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DEC-JAN 2013-14 | 150
Film & Travel

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INDIAN EDITION
DEC-JAN 2013-14 | 150
Film & Travel

Sonam s
Mumbai

The Oberoi, Mumbai,
on Marine Drive
KIRAN RAO
Japan
Vogue, GQ, Vogue Hommes, Vogue Girl, Wired
Sonam s
SHOPPING IN
BANGKOK
Go beyond the malls
PLUS
DUBAIS COOLEST
RESTAURANTS
HITTING THE SKI
SLOPES IN GULMARG
AUSTRALIAS
GREAT BARRIER REEF
Mumbai

The Oberoi, Mumbai,
on Marine Drive
KIRAN RAO
SHOPPING IN
BANGKOK
Go beyond the malls
PLUS
DUBAIS COOLEST
RESTAURANTS
HITTING THE SKI
SLOPES IN GULMARG
AUSTRALIAS
GREAT BARRIER REEF
Taiwan
Vogue, GQ
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Contributors
We asked our contributors: What destination stands out in your mind because
of a film you have seen?
Who: IMTIAZ ALI What: Director of Jab We Met, Rockstar
and the 2014 film, Highway Where: 5 Stops on my Highway, p86
A: Fatehpur in the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan because
of JP Duttas Ghulami, which was filmed there. I even shot
portions of two of my films here.
Who: FATIMA BHUTTO What: CNT contributing editor; author of three

books, including The Shadow of the Crescent Moon Where: Pakistan
and Bollywood, p125 A: I grew up on James Bond films, so Id pick Kingston
for Dr No and Cortina dAmpezzo because of For Your Eyes Only.
Who: REBECCA BYERLY What: Journalist, has reported for
Time and CNN Where: Gulmarg, p192 A: Seven Years in Tibet ignited
my love for the Himalayas. I was a teenager when I saw the film, and
knew a significant part of my life would be spent in these mountains,
learning from the people who call it their home.
Who: RAJEEV MASAND What: Film critic and host of Now

Showing on CNN-IBN Where: Silver screen travels, p32 A: Theres
a sleepy, fairytale quality to Bruges that I discovered when
I watched the film In BrugesIve wanted to go there ever since.
Who: SEEMA GOSWAMI What: Hindustan Times columnist

Where: Decoding the Virgin Airways look, p134 A: The canals, the
palazzos, the piazzas and, of course, Angelina Jolie and Johnny
DeppVenice never looked more beautiful than in The Tourist.
PHOTOGRAPHS: TOM PARKER; INDIAPICTURE.IN;

ARNAB ROY; CRAIG TUTTLE/CORBIS; KEDAR NENE
Who: TOM PARKER What: CNT contributing photographer

Where: Mumbai, p170 A: Italy instantly springs to mind thanks
to The Talented Mr Ripley. It was filmed around the stunning Lake
Como as well as in Venice and Rome.
Editors letter
hen I first arrived in the US as a 17-year-old college student,

I hadnt a clue where I was going, both literally and figuratively. As
the plane landed in Bradford, a town of just 10,000 people, I was
horrified. It seemed we had arrived in the jungle; there were trees and woods
all around us. There wasnt a skyscraper in sight. Our cars routinely had to
avoid deer crossing the roads. Most of the student body was white, and many
had never left the state of Pennsylvania, or met (even seen) a South Asian
before. It was a difficult adjustment for a city girl like me, and a culture shock
I hadnt been expecting to encounter at all. Why? I blame the movies.
Like any teenage girl watching 1990s Hollywood films such as Working
Girl, Cocktail, Wall Street, Ghost, When Harry Met Sally or The Bonfire of
the Vanities, when I thought of America, I imagined New York City. I had
no reason to believe that there were
people who existed in the United
States who didnt live in Manhattan,
werent fabulously cosmopolitan,
didnt dress in power suits like
Melanie Griffith, or flirt like Tom Cruise. In my mind, even a middle-class
couple was rich enough to afford a sexy loft apartment and throw parties
where everything (and everyone) shimmered and
sparkled. I imagined American streets were full
of hip-hop dancers waiting to be discovered and
offices full of secretaries smarter than their bosses.
(Unfortunately, all the films I had watched set in
small-town America involved serial killers and
psychosits a wonder I stayed on to graduate.)
So, perhaps the formative connections I made
between films and destinations were different to
yoursI certainly hope so. I hope you went to
Switzerland with Yash Chopra (as Rajeev Masand
and millions others did); or dreamt of going to
Brazil like Kiran Rao did
after watching Wong Kar-wais Happy Together.
Maybe the films youve watched have affected your
perception of a certain person, or an entire nation,
as Fatima Bhutto writes in her truly inspiring essay
about Pakistan and Bollywood. Do you go where
the stars take you? When in Mumbai, will you
do as Sonam does, and eat your way through this
marvellous city? Or are you more sceptical, and see
the movies as a novel way of marketing, as Prasad
Ramamurthy explains? One thing is clear: like
travel, cinema is transportative, transformative, an
act of magic, almost unbelievable a century ago in its scale and ambition. Both
attract big dreamers and great thinkers, geniuses and artists with passion, wonder
and a touch of madness. Both will make you fly.
Divia Thani Daswani Editor

editorcntraveller@condenast.in
twitter/diviathani
Correction: The name of Rosaville Heritage Guest House & Resort, Shillongs manager Tapoti Rynjah Bawri was mistakenly referred to as Usha Barooah
in the Indias top 20 B&Bs story of our Oct-Nov 2013 issue. The error is deeply regretted.
TRUTH IN
TRAVEL
Unlike other magazines or newspapers, Cond Nast Traveller does not accept complimentary travel press trips.
This no freebies policy means you can trust us to speak our mind.
All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press, and may have altered after publication. Unless otherwise stated, hotel prices and airline
fares are for the months of publication. Currency conversions are correct at the time of going to press, and may be rounded up.
PHOTOGRAPHS: FARROKH CHOTHIA; TOM PARKER
Like travel, film is transportative,

transformative, an act of magic, almost
unbelievable a century ago
First word
siLver screen travels

L
ike many Indians, my very first

impression of snow came from
within a dark cinema hall. As
a 13-year-old teenager, I sat at Regal
Cinema in Mumbai, watching Sridevi
stuff a snowball down Rishi Kapoors
sweater, while they cavorted down the
Swiss Alps in Yash Chopras Chandni
(1989). That moment made such an
impact on me that it came to mind
20 years later, in Berlin, as I watched
snowflakes settle on my palm, while
attending the citys film festival.
And Im not alone. Throughout his
lifetime, Yash Chopra took millions of
people on cinematic journeys. Actor
Juhi Chawla once told me, When I first
visited Switzerland, I felt like running
32 Cond nast Traveller Dec-Jan 2013-14
through the meadows, just like Id seen

in [Chopras] movies. But it was Raj
Kapoor who really kicked off the trend
of shooting abroad, much before Chopra,
in the 1960s. For a honeymoon sequence
in the love-triangle saga, Sangam (1964),
he romanced Vyjayanthimala in Venice,
Paris and Switzerland.
In an era before TV channels, travel
glossies and websites began feeding us
exotic experiences, it was Bollywood
that paved the way for our wanderlust.
We knew the Swiss Alps, the tulip
gardens around Amsterdam and the
gondolas of Venice without ever setting
foot in any of these places. Karan Johar,
himself responsible for transporting
millions of Indians, virtually, to London,
New York and Cairo through his films,

narrates an anecdote as an example.
Anuvab Pal [the stand-up comic]
told me how a young boy, on his first
visit to London, took one look at
Buckingham Palace and said to his dad,
This is where Shah Rukh Khan lives.
He was referring to Khans palatial
house in Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham.
The actual home in the film is the
19th-century Waddesdon Manor in
Aylesbury, which, interestingly,
doubled up for Buckingham Palace
in Stephen Frears 2006 historical
drama film, The Queen. r
Top, from left: A poster for the 1981 film
Silsila; Amsterdams Keukenhof Gardens,
made famous by the film. Inset: Yash Chopra
pHOTOgrapHs: CRaig TuTTle/CoRbis; nihaRika bubna
Over the decades, Hindi cinema has opened our minds to the world and inspired us to create
our own magical moments across it, says TV show host and film critic Rajeev Masand
WHERE
IDEAS
COME
FROM
Bollywood has always been a vehicle

for transporting audiences to a fantasy
land. And wherever Bollywoods heroes
fed their romance, other lovers followed.
One early memory comes from the 1963
film Tere Ghar Ke Samne, where Dev
Anand sings the lilting Dil Ka Bhanwar
Kare Pukar, while he and Nutan walk
down the steps of the Qutub Minar.
Above, from left:

On the sets of Tere
Ghar Ke Samne;
Havana, where Ek
Tha Tiger was shot.
Right: A poster
for Ek Tha Tiger
In an era before TV channels, travel glossies and

websites began feeding us exotic experiences, it was
Bollywood that paved the way for our wanderlust
The song, though actually shot on a set,
encouraged couples to have their own
romantic moments within the monument.
Similarly, Shammi Kapoors 1961
film Junglee, set on the slopes of snowy
Kashmir, Yash Chopras Daag (1973),
whose posters had Rajesh Khanna,
Sharmila Tagore and Rakhee Gulzar
posing against a Himalayan backdrop
in Shimla, and Dev Anands 1971
hippie tale Hare Rama Hare Krishna,
set in Kathmandu, made these three
destinations honeymoon hotspots.
Back then filmmakers and stars
wanted to bring the places they visited
to their fans. In my last interview with
Chopra, in 2012, he told me that Amitabh
Bachchan had come up with the location
to shoot the song, Dekha Ek Khwab,
from Silsila (1981). Amit showed me
some footage of gardens that were filled
with tulips, said Chopra. These were the
Keukenhof Gardens near Amsterdam

and I knew we had to shoot there.
As Indians took a fancy to the pristine
European locations that Chopra, and later
his son Aditya depicted, more and more
filmmakers took the same route. In 1991,
we were introduced to the guilty pleasure
of Hum, and the cheesy, likeable song,
Sanam Mere Sanam. Most of us had our
first real look at Mauritius then, drinking
in the sight of Govinda and Shilpa
Shirodkar writhing on those beaches.
Soon, almost every second film had
stars swanning off to London, New York,
Thailand, Los Angeles and Germany, but
only the ones that really captured these
places imaginatively stood out. Hrithik
Roshan, whose debut film was Rakesh
Roshans Kaho Naa Pyaar Hai (2000),
remembers how audiences would gush
about the New Zealand they had seen
in the film. People would talk endlessly
about the locations Dad scouted

and shot so beautifully, he recalls.
Recently, while on holiday in
Goa, my friends coaxed us to go
in search of the fort where the
characters from Farhan Akhtars
landmark 2001 film, Dil Chahta
Hai, sat and stared out to sea.
We drove to Chapora Fort near
Vagator, walked up to its ruins, and
recreated that cinematic moment for
our holiday album, sitting on the wall,
with our backs to the camera.
But sometimes its the filmmaker who
wants to revisit a moment or recreate
something hes seen before. Karan Johar,
who wrote and produced Kal Ho Naa Ho
(2003), says his own inspiration for setting
the love triangle in the Big Apple was
Sex and the City. I wanted to capture
the same lived-in feel that the TV series
had and avoid the touristy ways in which
people had shown NYC before, he says.
Over the years, Bollywood has
searched for more exotic landscapes,
urging us to follow. Bachna Ae Haseeno
(2008) gave us an eyeful of the
picturesque Capri island; I Hate Luv
Storys (2010) showcased Queenstown;
Rockstar (2011) opened our eyes to Prague;
and Ek Tha Tiger (2012) displayed Cuba
in all its glory. We have indeed broadened
our horizons and moved on from
armchair travel. Roshan sums this up
succinctly: Thats what you want from
your movies, in a senseto inspire fans
to relive those very moments.
phoTographs: Niharika bubNa; 4CorNers
First word
Informer
What does travel mean to you?
Q&A
In conversation with
KIRAN RAO
The celebrated director reveals how her marriage

to actor Aamir Khan and motherhood have
changed the way she travels
Travel means freedomthe

freedom to leave behind my
day-to-day world, with all its
responsibilities. Even if its
a short work trip, I try to squeeze
in at least one memorable meal
or a trip to a bookshop, which
gives me the guilty pleasure of
having sidestepped work and
the demands of my daily life.
Where do you escape to when

you want to get away from it all?
I often seek the comfort of a
place I know, such as our house in
Panchgani; Elsewhere, a boutique
beach-house property in Goa; or
a homestay in Ladakh because
I need to relax. But, equally often,
its a new place, which holds all the
possibilities of fresh adventures.
And where, in recent times,

have such adventures been set?
I really enjoyed a family trip to

Koh Samui, where Aamir and I
learnt to scuba dive. I think diving
is the most exciting activity ever,
and I hope to become really good
at it and explore the seas and
their marine life. I also enjoyed the
few months we spent in Chicago;
or staying in homestays rather

than hotels; not only is it much
easier to get Azads meals ready,
but I also love buying stuff at local
markets and cooking for myself,
my family and friends.
Do you collect souvenirs?
I often bring back things to

remind me of a place; these are
usually books or tickets and
programmes from plays that
Ive attended. I really like used
bookshops, where you can buy
old, out-of-print books or earlyedition copies. My most
noteworthy souvenir, though,
is the menu card of the historic
Parisian institution, Brasserie
Bofinger (www.bofingerparis.
com), where I had a fantastic
dinner after watching The Barber
of Seville. It is such fun to read it
and the memory of the food, even
now, makes my mouth water.
Name one destination youd

love to set a film in and why?
Id love to set a film anywhere in

North-East India because its an
area Im longing to explore. And
from what Ive seen of it
in pictures, it is stunning.
With Azad and Aamir, I travel with a

mini-entourage, so now I like renting
houses, buying stuff at local markets
and cooking for my family and friends
How has travel changed for

you over the years?
Kiran Raos son Azad

on the beach in Goa
When I was single, travelling

was so easyId just throw
a few things into a backpack and
head out the door. But with Azad
and Aamir, I travel with a minientourage; I often say I travel with
everything, including the kitchen
sink. Also, now I like renting houses
Can you tell me your top five

travel-related films?
First off, Aranyer Din Ratri by
Satyajit Ray for its journey into
the outdoors and the mystery
and romance of forest resthouses; then Michelangelo
Antonionis The Passenger, a
brilliant exploration of identity
and the meaning of life; Wes
Andersons Bottle Rocket, as
it has an amusing bunch of
characters in ridiculous situations;
The Lord of the Rings series for
its locations; and, lastly, Happy
Together by Wong Kar-waifun,
poignant and so gorgeously shot,
it makes me want to go to Iguaz,
on Brazils border with Argentina,
right now!
PRASAD RAMAMURTHY
PHOTOGRAPHS: PRABUDDHA DASGUPTA
the most fun part was the food

great restaurants and farmers
markets. And bookshops such as
Quimbys and Myopic Books were
lovely, too. However, my most
memorable holiday of all time
was my son Azads first trip to
the sea last year. We spent 10
days at Elsewhere, and seeing
Azad experience the ocean and
the sand was unforgettable.
photograph: olivier Fllmi
Ladakhs spectacular
mountainscape. The region is your
top Emerging Indian Destination
Readers Travel Awards 2013

Your choice of the worlds best Destinations H Hotels H Spas
H Airlines H Airports H Cruises H Tour Operators
We asked, you voted, and the results are in. Presenting the Best in the World
2013your favourites in the world of travel, as determined by youIndias
most sophisticated, discerning traveller
Dec-Jan 2013-14 Cond Nast Traveller 39
favourite Countries
1 thailand 96.58
2 switzerland 95.42
3 singapore 93.90
4 us 91.49
5 australia 89.51
6 france 87.96
7 uK 85.84
8 italy 83.70
9 spain 82.45
10 turkey 82.02
Its a hat trick

for thailand! The
country has been voted your
favourite three years in a row, with
a whopping overall score of 96.58.
More than 10 lakh Indian tourists
travelled to sunny Thailand in 2012.
And this year, youve undoubtedly
helped make Bangkok the most
visited city in the world
(yes, over London and
Paris!).
Wat Arun in Bangkok, Thailandthe

nation is your Favourite Country in
the world, three years in a row
What do the numbers mean? They are an index of satisfaction, scored out of a maximum of 100. In our Readers Travel Awards 2013 questionnaire
(June-July 2013 issue and at www.cntraveller.in), you were asked to choose the best that the world has to offerfrom hotels and spas to airlines and
airports. You were then asked to rate your choices according to various criteria, such as service, culture and value for money. From your responses, we
calculated the average mark on each criterion, and used this to provide the overall satisfaction percentage figure that you see on these pages.
40 cond Nast traveller Dec-Jan 2013-14
photograph: JOSEF HOFLEHNEr/gaLLEryStOck
Destinations
favourite overseas
cities
1 Dubai 96.06
2 London 92.10
3 Paris 90.53
4 New York 88.99
5 Bangkok 87.82
6 Hong Kong 86.52
7 Barcelona 85.70
8 sydney 84.75
9 istanbul 84.29
10 florence 83.86
Dubai tops your list of

Overseas Cities to
visit this year
42 Cond Nast traveller Dec-Jan 2013-14
Why Dubai?
More like, why not
Dubai? India now accounts
for the highest number of visitors
to the emirate. It seems like you
cant get enough of the glitzy hotels,
great food and range of kid-friendly
entertainment, from the ski slope to
the aquariums. But we know its
the shopping that keeps you
busiest. Dont worry, we
wont tell.
photograph: PAU PALACIOS/gALLeryStOCk
Destinations
Park Hyatt Chennai
hyatt celebrates 30 years of

making a difference in india
Wherever you travel in India, enjoy stylish surroundings and inspiring stays offered by enthusiastic
associates who share the best of what each city has to offer. From a sophisticated Park Hyatt
to a dramatic Grand Hyatt, energizing Hyatt Regency, charming HYATT hotel or uncomplicated
Hyatt Place our long history and heritage in India ensures an authentic hospitality experience
for every one of our guests.
Discover India through our eyes visit us at Hyattindia.in/30 years
Grand Hyatt Goa
Hyatt Regency Chennai
Grand Hyatt Mumbai
Hyatt Regency Delhi
Hyatt Ahmedabad
Hyatt Regency Gurgaon
Hyatt Amritsar
Hyatt Regency Kolkata
Hyatt Bangalore MG Road
Hyatt Regency Ludhiana (Coming Soon)
Hyatt Hyderabad Gachibowli
Hyatt Regency Mumbai
Hyatt Place Hampi
Hyatt Regency Pune
Hyatt Place Pune (Coming Soon)
Park Hyatt Chennai
Hyatt Pune
Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa
Hyatt Raipur (Coming Soon)
Park Hyatt Hyderabad
The trademark HYATT and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt International Corporation. 2013 Hyatt International Corporation. All rights reserved.
favourite
inDian cities
1 Mumbai 93.87
2 new Delhi 92.01
3 Bengaluru 88.67
4 Jaipur 85.93
5 chennai 85.71
favourite
inDian leisure
Destinations
1 Goa 94.72
2 Kerala 93.86
3 shimla 91.69
4 udaipur 89.37
5 Kashmir 88.83
What keeps
people coming back to
Goa? The beach destination
has slowly evolved into a foodie
paradise, boasting cuisines and chefs
from around the world. Each season,
a fresh crop of bars and clubs spring
up, setting new standards for
nightlife in India. And the hotels
range from kid-friendly fivestar to sleek boutique.
Goas beaches, food and nightlife

are a winning combination,
making it your favourite Indian
Leisure Destination
photograph: tom parker
Destinations
favourite emerging
overseas
Destinations
1 malaysia 93.18
2 seychelles 92.44
3 vietnam 91.13
4 Cambodia 89.25
5 Brazil 86.63
favourite emerging
inDian Destinations
1 Leh-Ladakh 92.42
2 gujarat 91.00
3 andaman & nicobar islands
89.69
4 odisha 87.64
5 Darjeeling 85.07
Malaysias rainforest, beaches

and adventure activities make
it your preferred Emerging
Overseas Destination
You must have

loved our guide to Kuala
Lumpur, because youve voted
malaysia your favourite emerging
destination. We now have 106 flights
a week from India to our truly Asian
friend. And with Tourism Malaysia
actively courting Bollywood
producers, expect to see
Langkawi, Borneo and Sabah
at a cinema near you
very soon.
photograph: Nick Garbutt/SuperStock/corbiS
Destinations
fAvourite overseAs
business hotels
1 51 buckingham Gate taj suites
& residences, London 93.61
2 Grand hyatt Dubai 92.59
3 Marina bay sands, Singapore 90.03
4 burj Al Arab, Dubai 87.59
5 the ritz-Carlton, hong Kong 86.30
fAvourite business hotels

in inDiA
1 the oberoi, Gurgaon 95.68
2 the taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai 94.97
3 trident, Gurgaon 94.16
4 the leela Palace new Delhi 92.98
5 hyatt regency Delhi 91.39
The Oberoi, Gurgaon is

your favourite Business
Hotel in India
You love
the oberoi, Gurgaon
in so many ways: all rooms

are at least 620sq ft; bathrooms
have TV screens; the butlers pack
suitcases impeccably; and the chefs
make the best mapo tofu in town.
No wonder its your Favourite
Business Hotel for the second
consecutive year since its
opening in 2011.
photograph: fram petit
Accommodation
FLYING WITH US IS AN AWARD

WINNING EXPERIENCE
Our Diamond First Class Suite is a world of absolute comfort and privacy. Stretch
out in a seat that unfolds into an award-winning 180 fully-flat bed upholstered
in Poltrona Frau leather, and enjoy a 26 LCD screen featuring over 650 hours of
entertainment. And of course, indulge in the finest cuisine with your own
tailor-made menu, prepared exclusively by our on-board chef.
Accommodation
fAvourite overseAs leisure hotels
1 the Address Dubai Mall 96.32
2 Atlantis the Palm, Dubai 95.31
3 taj exotica resort and spa, Maldives 93.00
4 the venetian Macao-resort-hotel 87.77
5 Bellagio, Las Vegas 85.84
fAvourite leisure hotels in inDiA
1 rambagh Palace, Jaipur 97.03
2 the oberoi udaivilas, Udaipur 95.79
3 Park hyatt Goa resort and spa 93.25
4 Grand hyatt Goa 90.80
5 the leela Goa 89.22
The Address Dubai Mall is your

favourite Overseas Leisure Hotel
photograph: daN kullberg
Whoever said
its all about location,
location, location must have
advised the Emaar group when
they built the Address Dubai Mall
in the heart of the emirates bustling
Downtown. If that wasnt good
enough, they connected the swanky
hotel to the buzzing Dubai Mall.
Talk about knowing the way to
an Indian travellers heart.
Contemporary sensibilities in a land of warm traditions.
Personal. Ref ined. Engaging.

39 Velacher y Road, Near Raj Bhavan, Chennai 600032, India.
For reser vations, call +91 44 7177 1234.
chennai.park.hyatt.com | facebook.com/ParkHyattChennai | twitter.com/PH_Chennai.
The trademarks HYATT , PARK HYATT and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt International Corporation.
2013 Hyatt International Corporation. All rights reserved.
Accommodation
fAvourite new
overseAs hotels
1 w singapore - sentosa Cove 91.72
2 Jw Marriott Marquis hotel Dubai 90.32
3 the siam, Bangkok 89.43
4 Bulgari hotel & residences london 86.14
5 four seasons hotel toronto 85.33
fAvourite new Business hotels

in inDiA
1 Park hyatt Chennai 94.60
2 the westin Chennai velachery 93.02
3 the leela Palace Chennai 92.18
4 Kempinski Ambience hotel Delhi 91.42
5 Bengaluru Marriott hotel whitefield 91.16
fAvourite new leisure hotels
in inDiA
1 itC Grand Chola, Chennai 94.62
2 vivanta by taj - Madikeri, Coorg 93.45
3 fairmont Jaipur 91.99
4 vivanta by taj - Bekal 90.93
5 hilton shillim estate retreat & spa, Pune 90.55
Park Hyatt Chennai is your

favourite New Business
Hotel in India
Its hard getting

a hotel bar right: theyre
either too lonely and dim, or too
bright and cheesy. But you found
one thats perfect: the sleek, sexy
The Flying Elephant at the Park hyatt
Chennai buzzes with atmosphere
and is packed with locals as well
as guestsjust one reason why
youve voted it your Favourite
New Business Hotel
in India.
fAvourite boutique
hotels in indiA
1 devi Garh by lebua, Udaipur 96.34
2 the Khyber himalayan resort & spa, Gulmarg 94.79
3 the oberoi vanyavilas, Ranthambore 92.83
4 the Park, Chennai 89.82
5 suryagarh, Jaisalmer 86.91
fAvourite hotel loyAlty ProGrAmmes
1 taj innerCircle, taj hotels resorts and Palaces 85.29
2 trident Privilege, trident hotels 84.40
3 starwood Preferred Guest, starwood hotels & resorts 82.83
4 marriott rewards, marriott international 81.58
5 hyatt Gold Passport, hyatt hotels & resorts 81.48
Devi Garh by lebua, Udaipur, is

your favourite Boutique Hotel
in India once again
Take a bow,
devi Garh by lebua,
for taking this spot three

years in a row. Earlier in 2013,
the renowned property created by
Anupam Poddar and Lekha Poddar
was handed over to Bangkok-based
lebua Group to manage. Heres
hoping that they dont change
too much; as they say, if it
aint broken...
photoGRaph: alamy
Accommodation
transport
favourite airPorts
1 singapore Changi airport 90.61
2 indira Gandhi international airport,
New Delhi 89.05
3 Dubai international 86.55
4 suvarnabhumi airport, Bangkok 85.22
5 Heathrow airport, London 84.44
favourite airlines for travel
outsiDe inDia
1 emirates 95.48
2 British airways 94.00
3 singapore airlines 92.67
4 swiss international air lines 89.41
5 Jet airways 88.06
Being on time
is certainly a beautiful
thing, as proven by indiGos
win in the Favourite Airline for Travel
Within India (it received an overall
satisfaction score of 95.38) category.
But you also gave it a score of 99.52
for its convenience of scheduling.
If only there was a category for
favourite in-flight uniformit
might have scored a
perfect 100.
IndiGo is your preferred Airline

For Travel Within India this year
photograph: JOSEF HOFLEHNEr/gaLLErySTOCk
favourite airlines for travel

witHin inDia
1 indiGo 95.38
2 Jet airways 92.22
transport
favourite cruise liners
1 royal caribbean international 90.38
2 Princess cruises 89.07
3 regent seven seas cruises 86.67
4 star cruises 84.37
5 Msc cruises 82.44
favourite sPecialist tour
oPerators
1 thomas cook 91.82
2 cox & Kings 90.56
3 Kuoni 86.83
4 abercrombie & Kent 84.57
5 tui 83.40
We introduced
two new categories on
your voting forms this year,
recognising the importance of
technology in the way you plan and
book your trip. Your Favourite Travel
App is tripadvisor, which scored
90.49 for its quality of reviews. And
Makemytrip.com received the
most votes and highest score
for getting you the best
deals.
favourite online travel agent

1 Makemytrip.com 89.97
2 cleartrip.com 89.61
3 expedia.co.in 87.73
Royal Caribbean International

is your number one Cruise
Liner this year
photograph: BRiAN FiNKE/GALLERYSTOCK
favourite travel aPP

tripadvisor 88.85
spas
favourite overseas
hotel spas
1 Jiva Grande spa, taj exotica
resort and spa, Maldives 93.51
2 one&only spa, one&only
royal Mirage, Dubai 92.33
3 Banyan tree spa, Marina Bay
sands, Singapore 91.18
4 spa and ayurvedic retreat, four
seasons resort Maldives landaa
Giraavaru 90.23
5 Chi, the spa at shangri-la,
shangri-la hotel, Bangkok 89.72
favourite hotel spas

in india
1 the spa by espa, the leela
palace new delhi 95.72
2 Kaya Kalp - the royal spa,
itC Mughal, agra 94.61
3 Jiva spa, taj exotica, Goa 92.52
4 the spa by espa, the leela
palace udaipur 90.98
5 trident spa and fitness centre,
trident, nariman point,
Mumbai 88.21
Even when
you travel abroad, you
most enjoy the Jiva spa
treatments created by the Taj
Hotels. And with the spectacular
setting of the Maldives (where the
over-water spa pavilions come with
private sundecks overlooking the
impossibly blue lagoon), its a
holistic experience thats
hard to beat.
Your preferred Overseas Hotel

Spa this year is the Jiva
Grande Spa at Taj Exotica
Resort and Spa, Maldives
photograph: FRDRIC LAGRANGE/TRUNK ARCHIVE
favourite destination spas

1 sereno spa, park hyatt Goa resort and spa 93.91
2 ananda spa at ananda in the himalayas, Uttarakhand 92.69
3 Meera spa, Gili lankafushi, Maldives 90.31
4 away spa, w retreat Koh samui 87.55
5 Banyan tree spa phuket 87.63
5 away spa, w retreat & spa - Maldives 80.48
Hospitality as legendary
as our landscape.
Warm hospitality. Friendly service. Fine cuisine. Its easy to fall in love with Switzerland before you
even catch a glimpse of the Alps. For bookings and inquiries about daily nonstop flights from Mumbai
and Delhi to Zurich call 1-800-209-7240/(022) 6713 7200, contact your travel agent or visit swiss.com
The ITC Grand Chola in

Chennai is your favourite
New Leisure Hotel in India
1 Brandon de souZa of
new delhi wins a three-night
stay for two in a Bayview
Room, with breakfast at the
fullerton Hotel singapore
2 tasCHa eipe of mumbai
wins a three-night stay
for two in a one-bedroom
terrace suite, with breakfast
at andara resort & villas,
Phuket, Thailand
3 dr pramod vaswani
of ahmedabad wins a threenight stay for two with
breakfast at the mulia, mulia
resort & villas, nusa dua,
Bali, Indonesia
4 raHuL muLLiCK of
gurgaon wins a three-night
stay for two in a Hillside
Pool Villa, with breakfast at
montigo resorts, nongsa,
Batan, Indonesia
5 maLini maLiK of
Bengaluru wins a three-night
stay for two in a Deluxe Room,
with breakfast at the sothea,
Siem Reap, Cambodia
*Prizes offered courtesy of the Preferred
Hotel Group. Congratulations to the
winners! Terms & Conditions apply.
How our questionnaire produCed

your Best of tHe Best List
Questionnaires were inserted into
copies of the June-July 2013 issue
of Cond Nast Traveller in India,
and simultaneously posted online
at www.cntraveller.in for the same
period. The replies were collated
and analysed by an independent
market-research company, Market
Management, in the UK. The
25 categories for nominations are
listed below, with the criteria by
which they were judged. Figures
for all criteria are percentages
representing overall average levels
of satisfaction with the services.
Countries Culture & hospitality
Variety of attractions Food/
drink Value for money Range of
accommodation Shopping
overseas & indian Cities
Shopping Value for money
Culture & hospitality Variety
of attractions Food/drink Range
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THE LAST WORD

IN TRAVEL
INDIAN EDITION
DEC-JAN 2013-14
Film & Travel

Sonam s
Mumbai

The Oberoi, Mumbai,
on Marine Drive
KIRAN RAO
THE LAST WORD

IN TRAVEL
INDIAN EDITION
DEC-JAN 2013-14
Film & Travel

SHOPPING I
BANGKO
Go beyond the m
PL
Sonams
DUBAIS COOLE
RESTAURAN
HITTING THE S
favourite spots for chaat,
SLOPES IN GULMA Herburgers
and date nights
AUSTRALI
GREAT BARRIER RE
Mumbai

The Oberoi, Mumbai,
on Marine Drive
FATIMA BHUTTO SEEMA GOSWAMI IMTIAZ A
KIRAN RAO
SHOPPING IN
BANGKOK
Go beyond the malls
PLUS
DUBAIS COOLEST
RESTAURANTS
HITTING THE SKI
SLOPES IN GULMARG
AUSTRALIAS
GREAT BARRIER REEF
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Agenda
Your next holiday now H TV-inspired itineraries H A road trip with Imtiaz Ali
IllusTrATIon: himANshu lAkhwANi
From rocking
nightclubs
to laid-back
lounge bars,
Anushka
Patodia
presents the
greatest places
to party in
20 cities around
the world
Agenda
Vesper Bar, Amsterdam
Laid-back & local: THREE

SIXTY LOUNGE
Jazz fans will love this chic lounge
on the 32nd floor of the Millennium
Hilton Bangkok Hotel. Overlooking
the Chao Phraya River, this flying
saucer-shaped bar has a winning
combination of plush seating,
decadent cocktails and live music.
You can enjoy 360-degree, panoramic
views of the city as you sit in this
charming candlelit space, the perfect
spot for a date.
What to drink: The Apple-Cucumber
Bellini (cucumber, green apples,
lychee and Tanqueray gin) and ros
Pink Sangria are hot favourites.
(www3.hilton.com)
BENGALURU
Hip & happening: SKYYE
bartender will decide the drink for you

based on your spirit of choice.
What to drink: Besides the signature
Vesper Martini (a potent version of
the all-time favourite), try the Wasabi
Fizz (sake, ginger liqueur, wasabi
syrup, lemon juice and sushi ginger).
(www.vesperbar.nl)
Hip & happening: AIR

Formerly a gay club called iT, it has now
been reborn as a swanky new nightclub
with five bars and a capacity of 1,300.
Look out for the AIR Card, a chip card
with the help of which you can pre-pay
for locker facilities and drinks from any
of the five bars.
The music: Mainly house. Dusky,
James Zabiela, Eats Everything and
Justin Martin played here last year.
(www.air.nl)
BANGKOK
Hip & happening: Q BAR
Laid-back & local: VESPER BAR
Named after Bond girl VesperJames

Bonds one true love in Casino Royale
this classy cocktail bar serves some of
the best drinks in town. The dimly lit,
dark-wood lounge is a cosy, intimate
space, where drinks range from wines
and beers to exotic blends (served in
long-stemmed teacups during high
tea). And if the extensive menu offers
too many choices, you can always go
for The Leap of Faith optionhere the
VESPER
MARTINI
VESPER BAR,
AMSTERDAM
Owen
Wilson
INGREDIENTS
70ml Tanqueray gin
20ml vodka
10ml Lillet Blanc
2 drops of Angostura
bitters
One of Bangkoks most iconic

nightclubs, Q Bars interiors are
done up in a minimalistic, retro
style and the bar has the largest
selection of spirits and cocktails
in the city. But what makes it
truly special is its music, which
encompasses a range of genres,
from house and hip-hop to
EDM and trance.
Who goes: Q Bar has played
host to a number of international
celebrities, including Mick Jagger,
Matt Dillon, Owen Wilson and Colin
Farrell. (www.qbarbangkok.com)
METHOD
Laid-back & local: MONKEY BAR
If youre looking for a relaxed place to

enjoy some delicious cocktails and
mouth-watering food, youve come to
the right place. Bengalurus favourite
gastropub is the brainchild of chef
Manu Chandra (of Mumbais Olive Bar
& Kitchen) and serves some of the
best drinks in the city.
What to drink: The house special,
Mangaa (a vodka, aam panna, mint
and cumin concoction), served in
a Nutella jar. (http://mobar.in)
Pre-chill a Martini glass with crushed ice. Add all the ingredients into
a shaker. Fill the shaker with ice and shake for 12 seconds. Discard the
crushed ice from the pre-chilled glass and double-strain the drink into
it. Slice a large, thin lemon peel, then squeeze the oils from the peel.
Finally, drop the twisted peel into the glass and serve.
PHOTOGRAPHS: SAID ELATAB/SPLASH NEWS/CORBIS; SHUTTERSTOCK
AMSTERDAM
Credited with changing Bengalurus

nightlife scene, this sleek, opulent bar
on the 16th floor of the luxury UB City
mall is an open-air haven, where the
citys hedonists head to on weekends.
Spread over 12,000sq ft, with a litup, glass dance floor that changes
colours throughout the evening, this
lounge-club is purpose-built for some
hard-core partying.
When to go: Weekends are the
rage but the club also hosts the
WedneSkyyea fancy-dress evening
with themes ranging from Stairway to
Heaven to Pyjama Partyevery third
Wednesday. (www.skyye.in)
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Agenda
Hip & happening: ARMANDO
ALL STARS
Latino music meets electro, reggae
and hip-hop at this chic-yet-retro,
1970s-style discoteria. The lounges
dcor is inspired by a fictitious
character, Armando Fuentes, and
features rooms lined with vintage
wallpaper and wooden panelling;
theres a courtyard with brick
walls, old posters and hanging
plants. Also worth a visit is its sibling
Armando Records, a rooftop bar
located on the fourth floor of the
same building.
The door policy: Be prepared to
queue up outside on weekends;
a US$10 ( 640) cover charge can
get you into both Armando All Stars
and Armando Records. (www.
armandorecords.org)
Monkey Bar, Bengaluru.

Bottom right: Place
dEtoile, Beirut
Laid-back & local: BOGOT

BEER COMPANY
A British pub chain in the Colombian

capital, the BBC serves 13 types of
beers, each brewed in-house. The
artisanal ales are a big hit with both
Colombian yuppies and a growing
expat crowd, who also enjoy the
chains pumping American rock
music. The Bogot Beer Companys
USP is its collection of beers that
arent mass-produced. Instead, the
beers are brewed in small batches
without the use of any artificial
preservatives. Patrons love this place
as much for its relaxed, informal vibe
as for its tipple selection.
What to drink: The BBC Black
N Tan (Monserrate Roja mixed
BEIRUT
Hip & happening: MAD

Beirut regulars will know that White
is a favourite with the citys partyhappy crowd. But with the opening
of MAD, the clubs winter venue, the
verdict seems divided. Located in the
same building, this former warehouse
features a rhomboid grid of LED lights
from the roof, which contributes to its
trippy, trance-like atmosphere. And if
it gets too stuffy indoors, theres also
a balcony where you can finish your
drink before you head back inside to
dance the night away.
The music: Hip-hop, R&B and deep
house, with Lebanese DJs creating
some energetic remixing. MAD has
also played host to DJ Otto Knows.
(http://madbeirut.com)
CAPE TOWN
Hip & happening: DECODANCE

An alternative dance venue in Cape
Towns Sea Point area, the club is
known for its convivial atmosphere,
strict age policy (under-22s arent
allowed, which means your night
out will be refreshingly teenagerfree) and old-school playlist. Expect
to see over-the-top (sometimes
outrageous) outfits that partygoers
wearespecially during the monthly
fancy-dress competition.
The music: A mix of retro pop, rock
and dance tunes keep the party
swinging until closing time. (http://
decodance.co.za)
Laid-back & local: THE PIANO BAR

A soulful, NYC-inspired music revue
joint, where artists play easy-on-theears blues, funk and jazz, The Piano
Bar is ideal for a relaxed evening out
with your buddies. What makes it tick
with the citys it crowd, however, is
its range of delicious cocktails, where
all the infusions are made in-house.
The trendy space includes a bar
room with a fireplace, a piano lounge,
where guests can enjoy their drinks
and watch the musicians play, and
a balcony that affords views of De
Waterkant Village and Devils Peak.
What to drink: The Cinnanut,
a concoction of cinnamonand cardamom-infused vodka,
Cointreau and macadamia extract,
is the perfect winter warmer. (http://
thepianobar.co.za)
WHATS PLAYING
AT MAD, Beirut
Laid-back & local: SQUARE
A trendy open-air lounge at the

Mvenpick Hotel & Resort Beirut,
Square is the ideal pre-drinking spot
for a night out in town. Enjoy stunning
views of the Mediterranean Sea in
a cosy atmosphere as you sip on one
of their speciality cocktails.
The music: Squares music manager
Said Mrad is a well-known name on
the Middle Eastern music circuit, so
expect a selection of the latest house
from the lounges two resident DJs.
(www.moevenpick-hotels.com)
with Chapinero Porter) is the pick

of the menu. (www.bogotabeer
company.com)
1. Wake Me Up by Avicii
feat Aloe Blacc
2. Burn by Ellie Goulding
(Tisto remix)
3. Watch Out for This
(Bumaye) by Major Lazer
feat Busy Signal
4. Young and Beautiful
by Lana Del Rey (Cedric
Gervais remix)
5. Thinking About You
by Calvin Harris feat
Ayah Marar
DJ Otto Knows
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAN KULLBERG; GETTY; MICHELE FALZONE/JAI/CORBIS
BOGOT
Agenda
Beirut club-theatre of the same
name, it plays everything from rock
and pop to Middle-Eastern and even
Indianwith each live act lasting
about 10 minutes.
Who goes: A smattering of
sheikhs, expat corporate bigwigs
and tourists looking to experience
the Dubai nightlife. (www.
themusichall.com)
Laid-back & local: KOUBBA BAR
The Flying
Elephant, Chennai
CHENNAI
simple and elegant, with an

added emphasis on space so
you dont feel like youre part of
a bustling megalopolis. Rather,
its incredibly chilled out and even
serves a selection of beachside
snacks, with the accompaniment of
some relaxed music played by the
resident DJs.
What to drink: The Bull Frog,
a signature cocktail that brings
together a heady mix of tequila,
vodka, gin and white rum with
lime juice and blue curaao.
(www3.hilton.com)
Hip & happening: THE

FLYING ELEPHANT
A multi-level space with six open,
interactive kitchens, The Flying
Elephant has been done up by
renowned designer, George Wong.
Come evening, the restaurant at the
Park Hyatt Chennai transforms into
a plush bar, attracting the citys most
chic mix of stiletto-clad socialites and
Tollywood actors (such as Dhanush
and R Madhavan).
The music: The latest Bollywood and
international dance tracks. (http://
chennai.park.hyatt.com)
DUBAI
Hip & happening:

MUSICHALL
PHOTOGRAPHS: KEDAR NENE; SHUTTERSTOCK
Laid-back & local: Q BAR
Perched atop the Hilton Chennai

Hotel, this bar affords spectacular
views of the Tamil Nadu capital.
Q Bars quaint cabanas are perfect
for reclining in the company of friends
with a cocktail in hand. If youd like to
sit by the pool, theres also a gazebo
to park yourself under. The dcor is
BULL FROG
Q BAR,
CHENNAI
R Madhavan
INGREDIENTS
10ml vodka
10ml gin
10ml white rum
10ml tequila
Party it up, Dubai-style, at the

emirates brand-new musical venue
at the Jumeirah Zabeel Saray
hotel, which transforms into a
performance space with more than
10 eclectic live acts on Thursdays
and Fridays. An offshoot of the
10ml blue
curaao
5ml lime juice
Red Bull to top
the drink off with
Elegant, arabesque dcor meets

soulful music and astounding
views of Burj Al Arab and the Arabian
Sea at this low-key yet stylish
lounge at Madinat Jumeirah hotel.
This is the perfect pre-party spot,
where you can sink into the
comfy sofas and enjoy some mouthwatering cocktails. This
terrace bar could easily be the
emirates best-kept secret, which
means that you wont be jostling
for space amid a crowd of tourists
and young party-goersthis is
a place to enjoy a laid-back drink,
and is all the better for it.
The look: A subtle, tasteful take
on Arabian Nights, complete with
exotic rugs, traditional cushions and
lanterns. (www.jumeirah.com)
ISTANBUL
Hip & happening: REINA

A jaw-dropping, Bosphorus location,
a collection of glamorous bars
and restaurants, and a glitzy,
celebrity crowd all contribute to
Reinas reign as Istanbuls premier
nightspot. In a city uniquely
positioned across both Europe and
Asia, clubbers at Reina can see both
continents as they party it up at the
club. Enter the venue on a boat to
avoid the road traffic and witness
great views along the way.
Who goes: The international and
Turkish jet set. Everyone from Enrique
Iglesias, Sting and Paris Hilton to
Roberto Cavalli, Kobe Bryant and
METHOD
Add all the ingredients to a mixing glass with lime

juice and shake vigorously. Pour into a tall Pilsner
glass and top up with Red Bull. Serve immediately.
Agenda
Djellabar, Marrakech
Laid-back & local: URBAN
This casual caf and bar is located in

Beyoglu, Istanbuls cultural quarter.
The music is soft enough to have
a conversation and tables are both
indoors and outdoors. The dcor
is chic, old-school Parisian, with
the outside tables shaded by leafy
creepers. Chill out with friends, mingle
with fellow guests or simply spend the
evening with a beer and your favourite
book in hand.
Who goes: Beyoglus boho-chic arty
crowd makes regular appearances,
as does an older, more sophisticated
gentry. (http://urbanbeyoglu.com)
Laid-back & local: OBLIX
LONDON
Hip & happening: FABRIC

A former meat storage unit, this
Farringdon club is legendary on
Londons party circuit, with three
rooms that are perpetually
packed to the rafters. With an
ear-pumping sound system,
great line-ups (Doc Martin, Radio
Slave and Dave Clarke are regular
performers) and a peppy crowd,
this London institution is a
must-visit. Just make sure you
put your name on the guest list
queues outside can be up to
three hours long.
The music: Electronic, drum and
bass, dubstep, house, techno,
Madonna
Zuma founder Rainer Beckers

brand-new bar on the 32nd floor
of The Shard has everythinglive
jazz music, delicious cocktails
and a view to kill for. Youll have to
restrain yourself from running up to
the window and pressing your nose
against it; but if you do, youll see
the city spread out below, complete
with Tower Bridge, the Thames and
the London Underground (looking
like a moving toy train). Done up in
wood and earthy tones, with flickering
candles as part of the dcor, the bar
(on the left of the elevator; the right
will lead you to the restaurant) has an
extensive selection of imported beer,
wine and cocktails.
What to drink: The Salt Smoked
Sazerak (with Don Julio 1942
tequila, oak-smoked water and agave
nectar) is delightful. Or celebrate
a special occasion with one of their
selection of mellow cocktails; these
drinks are matured in 1,800ml
crystal decanters and cost an eyewatering 750 ( 74,615). (http://
oblixrestaurant.com)
MARRAKECH
Hip & happening: DJELLABAR

Housed in a former wedding hall
from the 1940s, Djellabar is an
Oriental-style ode to pop culture.
Youll be greeted by portraits of iconic
personalities such as Elvis Presley,
Bob Marley, Marilyn Monroe, Nelson
Mandela, even Mahatma Gandhi
(wearing fez hats) as you enter this
restaurant and bar, which turns into
a cool lounge later in the evening. With
Buddha Bar honcho Claude Challe
behind it, Djellabar is the place to
party in this Moroccan city.
The music: Contemporary Arabic and
lounge tracks from around the world.
(+212 524 421 242)
Laid-back & local: SKY LOUNGE
Plush hotel Delano Marrakechs rooftop

bar comes alive in the evenings, with its
eclectic soundtrack, speciality cocktails
and a hip, glamorous crowd comprising
the citys movers and shakers. The
stupendous views of the bustling
Medina, Agdal Gardens, imperial
ramparts and the Atlas Mountains
are complemented by the delicious
Japanese food from the surrounding
restaurant, Namazake. Lounge around
the circular infinity pool, marvel at the
views or simply sink into a cosy daybed
with a Chilli Mojito.
What to drink: The perennially
popular Fresh Pepper Martini.
(www.morganshotelgroup.com)
PHOTOGRAPH: STEPHANE CARDINALE/PEOPLE AVENUE/CORBIS
disco. Fridays are a mix of everything

from dubstep to hip-hop, and
Saturdays are devoted to showcasing
underground DJ talent, international
EDM legends and accomplished
live house and techno acts. (www.
fabriclondon.com)
Madonna has been spotted partying

here. (www.reina.com.tr)
Agenda
MIAMI
Hip & happening: CLUB SPACE

Club Space is where some of Miamis
hottest parties take place. The
sprawling multi-storey warehouse
has three rooms, each playing a mix
of trance, techno and house. What
makes Club Space stand out is its 24hour operating licencewhich means
that you can dance all the way into the
morning. And with guest DJs such as
Paul van Dyk, John Digweed, Sasha,
Deep Dish, David Guetta, Cedric
Gervais and Tisto, this is one place
where the party never stops.
Who goes: Die-hard party animals,
yuppies and holidaymakers looking
for a fun night out on the town.
(www.clubspace.com)
Laid-back & local: FOXHOLE
This speakeasy-style, chic

underground club is walking distance
from Miami Beach, with an unmarked,
grey door. Along with its extensive
drinks menu, Foxhole has plenty
of entertainment to keep visitors
busythere are old-school arcade
games, dartboards and pool tables
surrounded by vintage-gun displays.
Music is from an Internet-enabled
jukebox, except on weekends when
DJs spin the latest tunes.
What to drink: Any of the 30 beers
on the menu. (www.foxholebar.com)
The Daily, Mumbai. Left:

The Gypsy Queen cocktail
Laid-back & local: THE DAILY
MUMBAI
Hip & happening: TOTE ON

THE TURF
Mumbais nightlife may have gone
through a rough patch recently, but
you wouldnt know it if you were
a Tote regular. A split-level bar
situated inside Mahalaxmi Race
Course, this is where you go to party
on weekends. With adrenalinepumping music and a great
selection of spirits and cocktails,
this is definitely the place to be on
a Saturday night.
THE GYPSY
QUEEN
THE DAILY,
MUMBAI
Cedric Gervais
INGREDIENTS
60ml bar mix (lime
juice and sugar syrup)
45ml Scotch whisky
15ml peach-flavoured
Snapple
If youre making your way along the

perpetually crowded SV Road, seek
refuge in The Dailys (relatively)
serene interiors, featuring a rosewood
bar, where the ceilings and walls
are decked up with newspapers
highlighting feel-good stories that
change every day. The best part
about this bar, however, is its
range of cocktails, many of which
are made by bartenders using
molecular mixology.
What to drink: The Gypsy Queen
(a blend of Scotch, peach and lemon,
smoked with cinnamon, applewood
and cloves) and the Coconut
Mountie (a dark rum, chocolate
syrup and coconut-cream mix).
(022 2641 8409)
4 cloves
1 cinnamon stick
1/2tsp Apple
Wood Chips
1 slice of orange
to garnish
NEW DELHI
Hip & happening: PANGAEA

This ostentatious club at The Ashok
hotel takes luxury to a whole new
level with its prices that range from
1,500 to 4 lakh (for exclusive
stewards and personal guards)
a night. Michael Aults India venture
has strayed away from the African
safari-style dcor he usually favours;
instead, the Delhi club features stunning
artworks and deep-red lighting.
Who plays: Albert Neve, Dualist Inquiry
and Sam Young. DJ Kaskade recently
played here. (088 6060 0478)
Laid-back & local: PCO
New Delhis first contemporary
speakeasy is not easy to get toyou
can only learn about it from friends
whove already been there or if you
are on the select mailing listbut
once you get in its all worth it. Indoor
venues include an opulent living room,
a cigar lounge done up in dark leather,
METHOD
Combine all the ingredients with ice in a shaker, then
strain the liquid into a decanter. Put the Apple Wood
Chips into a smoke gun, then infuse it into the drink.
Swirl the decanter to make sure its smoky enough. Pour
the drink into an Old Fashioned glass, then fill it with ice.
Add the orange slice and serve.
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY; SHUTTERSTOCK
Who goes: Party-happy locals, a

clutch of Bollywood stars and expats
looking to experience the Mumbai
nightlife. (www.thetote.in)
Agenda
Laid-back & local: MISS KO
Philippe Starcks latest project
opened its doors early this year,
with a Eurasian theme and inspiration
from the fictitious Miss Ko. Expect to
find Oriental and French touches at
this lounge and restaurant, which
features a huge Japanese teapot
lantern and an 85ft bar room with
Starck-designed screens displaying
Asian newscasts and graphics.
The bar serves drinks made with
interesting ingredients such as
shochu and yuzu liqueur.
What to drink: The Ginza Boy, a blend
of vodka, aloe vera juice, honey and
lime. (www.miss-ko.com)
RIO DE JANEIRO
Hip & happening: MIROIR

Miss Ko, Paris
Lounge offers some of the best views

of the city. Gaze out over the soaring
Manhattan skyline, Grand Central
Terminal and Bryant Park from this
14th-floor lounge as you kick back on
their snug, velvet sofas with a literaryinspired cocktail.
What to drink: The Bookmarks
Cocktail (Appleton rum, Grand
Marnier and cranberry juice) is
a hit. (www.libraryhotel.com)
a cosy suite and a basement bar

spread over two levels.
What to drink: An Old Fashioned, with
Bourbon, Angostura and chocolate
bitters. (098118 48259)
NEW YORK
Hip & happening: PACHA NYC

A four-level club spread over
30,000sq ft, the NYC outpost of
Ibizas most popular nightspot is
all set to follow its predecessor.
The Main Room, Mezzanine, The
Funky Room and Pachita each have
their own dcor, DJ booths and
colourful LED lights, and Pacha NYC
regularly features performances
by the whos who of electronic
dance music.
Who plays: Skrillex, Avicii and
Afrojack have played to a packed
house. (http://pachanyc.com)
PARIS
Hip & happening: LE CAB
Laid-back & local: BOOKMARKS

LOUNGE
New York City has its share of rooftop

bars, but the Library Hotels Bookmarks
GINZA BOY
MISS KO,
PARIS
Avicii
INGREDIENTS
50ml vodka
50ml aloe vera juice
20ml apple juice
15ml green lemon
juice
A slinky, futuristic space right in front of

the Louvre, this chic nightclub attracts
the citys fashionable set. The music
is usually commercial house and R&B
and the DJs know how to keep guests
on the floor. The bar serves some
delicious cocktails, including a truly
wicked Cosmopolitan.
Who goes: Parisian models and
jet-set businessmen. Make sure you
dress the part as the door policy is
notoriously tough. (www.cabaret.fr)
10ml honey
3 pieces of fresh
cucumber
A pinch of pepper
This posh nightclub, co-owned by

popular Brazilian actor Luciano Szafir,
is split across two floors. With its
velvet-lined walls and mirror-covered
columns, Miroir caters to a wellheeled crowd. Some of Rios biggest
DJs (including Rafael Nazareth, Carol
Legally and Beto Giovannetti) spin
their tunes here as the glam crowd
parties it up until 6am.
Who goes: Stylish cariocas in tight
miniskirts and Szafirs famous friends.
(https://miroirclub.com.br)
Laid-back & local: BAR DOS

DESCASADOS
This charming patio lounge in the Hotel

Santa Teresa comes alive in the evenings
when the guests gather here to see the
sunset. The property is housed in a 19thcentury mansion and comes with
a rich history (Bar dos Descasados was
formerly the slaves quarters), which
the owners have tried hard to preserve.
You can still see the arched, exposedstone walls, as you recline with a cocktail
in the bar terraces sleek, teak cabanas.
What to drink: The Lychee Caipirinha
is a hot favourite. (www.santa-teresahotel.com)
METHOD
Put everything except the cucumber slices

in a cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously. Fill
a tall glass with ice and place the cucumber
slices in between the cubes. Strain the
mixture into the glass and serve.
Agenda
background. While the food is delicious,
its the sheer variety of drinks that
patrons come to sample here.
What to drink: The Blood Orange and
Plum Pisco Sour (with plum Pisco and
homemade blood orange cordial) is
an absolute hit. (www.porteno.com.au)
TOKYO
Hip & happening: AGEHA
SINGAPORE
cocktails while you recline in your

cabana. Saturday nights are best
spent at the Pacha Sydney nightclub,
where DJs, burlesque dancers and
circus performers converge to
entertain a roaring crowd.
Who goes: Cricketers Brett Lee and
Ricky Ponting; Spice Girl Mel B; Miss
Universe Jennifer Hawkins. (http://
merivale.com.au/ivy)
Hip & happening: ZOUK

Four venues combine into one hip
club, playing music from a variety
of genres: Zouk plays house and
techno; Phuture is for hip-hop and
R&B fans; Velvet Underground has
a refined guest-list-only lounge,
popular with an older, more
sophisticated crowd; and the
alfresco Wine Bar is ideal for grabbing
some quick, pre-party drinks.
Who plays: Everyone, from DJs Paul
Oakenfold, Roger Sanchez and Nick
Warren to Bjork and The Chemical
Brothers. (www.zoukclub.com)
Laid-back & local: GARDELS BAR
Named after famous Argentinian

tango singer Carlos Gardel, this is
an artfully faded bar with polished
wood, Chesterfield sofas and cowhide
trim. Gardels takes its 50s theme
seriously, with both waitresses and
bartenders dressed in old-school style,
and retro-inspired tracks blaring in the
Laid-back & local: LANTERN
A popular after-work drinks venue,

Lanterns USP is its grand, 25m rooftop
pool. Featuring a lush, tropical setting,
Lantern has a good selection of wines,
beers and spirits, and is vibrant
without being too intrusive.
What to drink: Lanterns signature
Merlion cocktail is a tantalising
mix of tequila, young ginger,
honey, lime and soda. (www.
fullertonbayhotel.com)
Hip & happening: IVY
This cool little bar is the perfect place

to go to sample some rare Japanese
whisky. A former video-game designer,
owner Atsushi Horigami decided to
combine his two passions at this bar,
which serves about 300 varieties of
whiskies and screens silent films in the
evenings. The intimate interiors are
decorated with memorabilia sourced by
Japanese film art director Takeo Kimura.
What to drink: Ichiros Malt King of
Diamonds or the Mercian Karuizawa
15y Single Malt. (http://homepage2.
nifty.com/zoetrope)
WHATS PLAYING
AT PACHA SYDNEY
SYDNEY
Arguably Sydneys most exclusive

venue, ivy is where the citys elite
goes. The complex has everything
you need for a fun night out
restaurants, bars, even a poolside
lounge where you can sip tropical
Laid-back & local: ZOETROPE
Former
Spice Girl
Mel B
1. Booyah by Showtek feat

We Are Loud & Sonny Wilson
2. Out Of My Hands (SCNDL
Remix) by GT, The Only &
Christian Luke
3. Love Me Again (Gemini
Remix) by John Newman
4. What So Not - High You
Are (The Only Remix) by
OWSLA
5. Tsunami by DVBBS
& Borgeous
PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY
Zouk, Singapore. Bottom

right: ivy, Sydney
This massive waterside space is a

permanent fixture on Tokyos pulsating
party scene. Besides its four bars and
outdoor pool stage, ageHas crowning
glory is its artificial beach, which is set
up in the summer for partygoers to
catch the first rays of sunshine as they
dance the night away. ageHa regularly
invites global DJs to play alongside
home-grown, underground talent,
which has led to its ground-breaking
sound. And lest you worry about how
to get there, the club provides a shuttle
bus from Shibuya every half hour.
Who goes: Casually dressed locals
and expats; the monthly Shangri-La
dance evenings attract a largely gay
crowd. (www.ageha.com)
calvinklein.com
+91 9820078660/9871123247
watches
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
A festive AffAir
Gift yourself a break this festive season with a stay at Grand Hyatt Goa
hether youre travelling with

family or friends, the resort has
everything youll need to have
a great time. An enchanting destination
resort set on the calm waters of North
Goas Bambolim Bay, this architectural
marvel, inspired by a 17th-century palatial
Indo-Portuguese palace and offering
views of magical sunsets, is spread over
a massive 28 acres of colourful, tropical
gardens and lush lawns. Along with
palatial architecture and exquisite service,
there are plenty more festivities that
Grand Hyatt Goa has planned for its guests.
Take your pick from the ones below. This
holiday season, have a grand celebration
at Grand Hyatt Goa.
Christmas goodies at
Confeitaria
From 7 December to 7 January, Confeitarias
pastry chef Nicole Illa will whip up some
special sweet treats for you in all shapes
and sizes of love. Pre-order your favourites;
take your pick from traditional Christmas
puddings and custom made cakes to
classical Stollen, tempting gingerbread
houses and cookies. All this, and a whole lot
more, awaits you at this Grand Hyatt Goa
patisserie. (December 7, 2013 - January 7,
2014 8 AM-8 PM at Confeitaria)
popular kids party takes place on the Palace

Lawns from 4pm to 7pm. This year, the
renowned Bebos Kids Party will be bigger
than ever. There will be a large playground
with bouncy castles, balloon sculpting, cookie
decorations, candy floss, face painting, magic
shows and, of course, Santa Claus bringing
presents to the little ones. And thats not all.
Grand Hyatt Goas culinary team has prepared
a harmonious child-friendly feast with
delicacies for gourmet grown-ups as well.
(December 14, Saturday, 2013 4 PM-7 PM at
Palace Lawns)
If youre in town on Saturday, 14 December,

youre in for a real treatGoas most
Come, feel the love in the air as carol singers

bring beautiful melodies alive. Our Executive
the Cutest party on the

palaCe lawns
a Christmas dinner to
Cherish
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
Chef Shane ONeill and his culinary brigade

get ready months in advance for this
magical night to present the most splendid
scrumptious buffet of Christmas favourites,
and of course the much awaited irresistible
desserts. Our kids club Camp Hyatt will
keep your precious little ones entertained
while you enjoy some much-needed time
off. (December 24, Tuesday, 2013 7 PM-12
midnight at The Dining Room)
Christmas joy at the

dining room
Under the mild winter sun, as the spirit of

Christmas Day fills your heart, spoil yourself
with a feast fit for kings and queens. Held
in The Dining Room on Wednesday, 25
December, the grand buffet features an
extensive variety of food coupled with a
relentless spread of the finest desserts.
Enjoy contemporary foot-tapping music by
Luba, and Santa Claus will also distribute
gifts to the juniors. If you want to enjoy a
child-free evening, Camp Hyatt, the kids
club, will keep the precious little ones
entertained while you enjoy some much
needed time off. (December 25, Wednesday,
2013 1 PM-4 PM at The Dining Room)
the magiC unfolds at the

palaCe lawns
Feel the magic of Moulin Rouge, bring out
your masquerade masks, fancy dresses and
flamboyant make-upcall your

friends and book your space for
a night when time will stand still,
and theskies come alive as spirits soar.
Live performers, exotic dancers and
fireworks will entertain and dazzle the
night, the electrifying live band Rodney
and his troop will get you on your feet,
followed by a DJ who will keep the
party going all night long. Add to all
this a lavish, multi-cuisine buffet
spread and an open bar with premium
alcoholic beverages, and you have
yourself a night to remember. (December
31, Tuesday, 2013 9 PM-3 AM at The
Palace Lawns)
BrunCh of the year at

the dining room
Slept early to start the year fresh

or still pulsing with memories of
a great New Years Eve partywe have
the perfect brunch for you. Enjoy a
sparkling afternoon with an exquisite
spread of over five courses of interactive
live stations, creating the best in
South East Asian, Indian, Italian, Middle
Eastern and desserts along with your
friends and family as love and laughter
fill the air. The gorgeous Luba will add
melody to the afternoon with some
contemporary foot-tapping music.
Pamper yourself by having a dip in the

swimming pool, soaking up in the
afternoon sun or sipping on our
Sundowners while DJ Peppy sets the mood
from 5 PM to 7 PM by the pool. Our kids
club Camp Hyatt will keep your precious
little ones entertained while you enjoy
some much-needed time off. (January 1,
Wednesday, 2014 1 PM-4 PM at The
Dining Room)
other speCial
promotions
Grand Hyatt Goa also has individual

promotions planned for every day of the
week. Tuesdays are prawnilicious evenings
and karaoke nights at The Verandah and
Capiz Bar; Wednesdays are famous for
Goan delicacies and Ladies Nights at
Chulha and Capiz Bar; Thursdays
feature a Seafood Night Market and
After-Party at Capiz Bar; Fridays have
Arabian Barbeque Nights and Peppy
Midnights at Pool Bar and Grill and Capiz
Bar; Saturdays have a special Roast
Dinner at The Verandah and Capiz Bar;
and Sundays feature Champagne
Brunches and Sundowner Parties at
Pool Bar and Grill.
For more information, call 0832
301 1234 or visit www.goa.grand.
hyatt.com.
Agenda
STOPS ON MY
HIGHWAY
Director Imtiaz Ali shares the experiences that shaped his upcoming film, in which the
characters, played by Alia Bhatt and Randeep Hooda, find themselves on a road trip
ARU VALLEY, Jammu & Kashmir
Here in the Himalayas, we lived, travelled

and shot with the Bakarwals (nomadic
gujjars who move to the plains and back again
every year in search of fodder for their sheep).
These people have their own language,
music and stories. I asked one of the women
to sing a love legend, which is now in the
movie. When Highways music director, AR
Rahman, heard it for the first time, he felt it
sounded similar to a Romanian folk song.
NURMAHAL, Punjab
Folklore has it that Mughal empress

Noor Jahan spent her childhood
in this town. A team member had
told me about this place and as
soon as we arrived, I knew it had
to be in the film. Walking through
the townespecially wandering
around its grain market with its
ancient travellers innsyou are
transported to a different age.
KAZA, Himachal Pradesh
While writing the script for this

stretch of the film, I was planning
on shooting in places such as
Reckong Peo. My team urged me
to go even further to Nako, Tabo
and Kaza, from where we could
cross into Kashmir if the mountain
passes were open. I was looking
for a reason for two characters
to get stuck on a bus overnight,
in a very remote area. Landslides
are common in these hills, so
I used one such disaster as
an excuse to shoot in Kaza.
FARIDKOT &
FEROZEPUR, Punjab
AJMER, Rajasthan
We wanted to shoot close to

the dargah of Hazarat Khawaja
Moinuddin Chishty to capture the life
around it. No one has done this in a
very long time, as the crowds make it
difficult. But the local line producers,
who were khadims (volunteers) at the
dargah, handled the job beautifully.
A lot of old structures in Ajmer are
being replaced by modern oneswe
should find a way to preserve them.
Imtiaz Alis insider tip: The owners of the Pahalgam Hotel (www.pahalgam
hotel.com) can arrange a Kashmiri Pandit wazwan (meal) for you. The method
they use to prepare their food is the epitome of Kashmiri cuisine.
Alis upcoming film, Highway, will be released nationwide on 21 February 2014
MAP: ARNAB ROY
Actor Alia Bhatt (right) has a phobia

of plants. She had to film a scene in a
field of wheat just outside Faridkot. The
picture of her running out of the field,
her face a mix of thrill and enthusiasm,
proved she had conquered her fear.
I also remember shooting in Ferozepur,
which has the most beautiful buildings.
Partition severed this citys umbilical
cord with Lahore. The physical
evidence of this is an old railway track,
which now ends suddenly, similar to
a limb that has been chopped off. You
can see the veins (in fact, the rails)
dangling from a bridge in the distance.
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
Agenda
DESTINATION TV
Kerry Washington (who plays Olivia Pope in

Scandal) and her co-stars, with Washington,
DCs Capitol building in the background
PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY
PLAN
NOW
With TV shows now bringing cinematic genius to the

small screen, fans are increasingly attracted to their
settings. Sunayana Kumari reveals how you can step
into the world of your favourite television characters
Agenda
What put it on the map?

DOWNTON ABBEY
The highly addictive Edwardian
drama returned with its fourth
season this September. A show
about British social hierarchy, it
depicts the lives of the aristocratic
Crawley family. Viewers can
now visit Highclere Castlethe
real-life Downton Abbeyas it is
open to the public. The castle is
an hour-and-a-half drive from
London, and now belongs to the
Earl and Countess of Carnarvon,
having been in the family since
1679. While visitors wont get
to see Lord Grantham and the
Dowager Countess exchange
barbs in person here, they will
have access to the lavish rooms
the characters inhabit on the
show. Besides, you will see
pasture after pasture dotted
with black sheep on this 3,000acre estate, as well as a wildflower
meadow and a secret garden.
The grounds include a classic
walk-through with flowers along
both sides, which havent yet
featured on the showbut should.
(www.highclerecastle.co.uk) From
18 per person ( 1,810)
ALBUQUERQUE, US

BREAKING BAD
Before the arrival on the screen
of Walter Whitethe high-school
Before the arrival on the screen

of Walter Whitethe chemistry
teacher-turned-drug lordlittle
was known of Albuquerque
chemistry teacher-turned-drug
lord and the shows leading
protagonistlittle was known
of this southwestern spot in
New Mexico, or of its stunning
landscape. The city is surrounded
by the Chihuahuan Desert and its
backdrop is the Sandia Mountains.
Speaking to The New York Times,
show creator Vince Gilligan
recommends that visitors to
the city drive up to Central
Avenue, which is dotted with
old neon motel signs, and ride
the cable-car up the mountains.
They should also head to The
Candy Lady store at the corner
Clockwise from
top left: Highclere
Castle in West
Berkshire, where
Downton Abbey
is filmed; Bryan
Cranston, who
plays Walter
White in Breaking
Bad; Walter White
and his allies in
the Chihuahuan
Desert in New
Mexico
of Old Town Plaza, which sells

treats that resemble the blue
methamphetamine from the show.
Local tour company, ABQ
Trolley, offers a three-and-a-halfhour Breaking Bad trip, which
includes pit-stops at several
locations, including Twisters
Grill, which fans will recognise
as Los Pollos Hermanos
restaurantthe setting for much
of Season Fours tense scenes
between Walter White and
his nemesis, Gus Fring. After
the show wrapped up its final
season this year, the producers
thanked the city for playing
host by purchasing advertising
on billboards that read: Thanks
Albuquerque. We had great
chemistry. (www.abqtrolley.com)
Doubles from US$65 ( 4,000)
WASHINGTON, DC

TV SHOWS ABOUT POLITICS
With smash-hit political dramas
and comedies currently all the
rage in Hollywood, the action
has shifted to the US capital.
And despite the fact that none
of the shows supposedly set
in Washington, DC, such as
Homeland, Scandal, House of
Cards, Veep or Political Animals,
are actually filmed there, TV
enthusiasts are flocking to the
city. Take Tours caters to their
needs by providing all-day r
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; SHUTTERSTOCK
WEST BERKSHIRE, England
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
Get into the festive spirit among

Dine against an unforgettable panoramic view at Sky on 57, the streets and shops lighted up for
Singapore while you welcome the New Year! Christmasmerry making and shopping
Rollicking
good
Times in
Singapore
Herald the New Year with a brilliant visual
spectacle at Marina Bay, Singapore
end off 2013 and kick-start 2014,

Singapore-style with a holiday that
packs a flurry of world-class celebrity
dining, heart-stopping nightlife, indulgent
experiences and dazzling festivities. Soak
up the tropical yuletide atmosphere as you
indulge in some well-deserved retail therapy,
or party the night away with friends and
loved ones. Whatever you choose, you can
be sure that its going to be an unforgettable
holiday that you will take home with you.
Dance music lovers; get a concentrated
dose of Electro, Trance, House, Techno, Hip
Hop and much more at Zoukout, Southeast
Asias biggest dance festival at the great
sandy outdoors of Siloso Beach, Sentosa
on 13th 14th Dec 2013.
Christmas is a truly unique and lightened
experience, when the bustling shopping
districts of orchard road and Southern
Harbourfront come alive in a shimmering
kaleidoscope of dazzling lights and festive
sounds during the annual Christmas lightup. Admire how the malls have outdone
each other as they compete for the title of
the most creative and exuberant facade
dcor, and partake in the flurry of special
themed events, shopping promotions and
Celebrate music, dance and arts at

ZoukOut, a music festival unlike any other
A memorable tholiday awaits

you this year-end!
tourist privileges to make your Christmas

unforgettable.
Herald the New Year with a brilliant visual
spectacle at Marina Bay on 31 December!
Join Singapore as the nation welcomes
the dawn of 2014 with an extravaganza of
sights and sounds. Pen your New Year wishes
on Wishing Spheres at various wishing
stations around Singapore during the month
of December, then watch in wonder as they
are all set afloat in Marina Bay,accompanied
by music performances around the bay and a
8-minute breathtaking fireworks display at the
stroke of midnighta fitting way to step into
the New Year.
Dine against an unforgettable panoramic
view at Sky on 57 that offers a birds eye
view of Singapore and the bay. Enjoy a
modern take on traditional Asian cuisine
with an emphasis on premium produce and
exceptional hospitality.
Have a whale of a time with your loved
ones and friends in Singapore this year-end.
For your very own customized yearend holiday in Singapore, log on to
www.yoursingapore.com and select
Singapore, The Holiday You Take Home
With You.
Did you know?

Celebrity Mandira Bedi and her
husband Raj Kaushal enjoyed a
romantic couples dinner during their
recent holiday in Singapore!
Scan the Qr
code to see her
holiday and
other Your
Singapore videos
Agenda
excursions led by trained DC

actors to the citys most popular
sights such as the Capitol and
Union Station, which are often
the backdrop on these shows.
(www.taketours.com) From
US$35 per person ( 2,190)
NortherN IrelaNd

Game of throNes
This television adaptation of
George RR Martins book
series, A Song of Ice and Fire,
is an epic fantasy adventure
suffused with plenty of suspense,
sex and moody landscapes. The
cult hit is shot across Iceland,
Scotland, Morocco, Croatia, with
the majority being filmed in
Northern Ireland.
An online travel company,
Viator, has created a tour of
Belfast so that travellers can
visit iconic sites from the show.
A Game of Thrones expert, who
is happy to discuss the plight of
the main characters with visitors,
leads the excursion. Included
in the itinerary are the caves in
Cushendun, where the priestess
Melisandre gave birth to her
shadow baby, and the Dark
Hedges road in Ballycastle, with
an archway made of intertwined
trees, where character Arya
Stark dressed as a man to escape
Ever since Game of Thrones

began airing, hundreds flock
to Northern Ireland every day to
discover its mythical landscape
from Kings Landing. The latter
is not an easy place to find; in
fact, hardly anyone ever visited
it before fans of the show came
looking for it. But now, hundreds
flock here every day to discover its
mythical landscape. The tourism
boards official website (www.
discovernorthernireland.com)
also maintains a blog with
constant updates on the shows
filming locations. (www.viator.com)
From US$117 per person ( 7,330)
NeW York CItY

GIrls & louIe
Thanks to the many romantic
comedies, dramas and action
films that have paid homage to
its urban landscape, the city is
forever imprinted on the collective
consciousness of a global audience.
But there is a distinct shift in
the way New York has been
projected of late. HBOs Girls has
replaced Sex and the Citys glitzy
Manhattan skyline with Brooklyns
graffitied walls. Fans of the show
can view an interactive Girls
Above: Character
Arya Stark,
played by Maisie
Williams, in a
scene from Game
of Thrones, shot
in Ballycastle,
Northern Ireland
map on radio station WNYCs

website (www.wnyc.org), which
features various filming locations,
including Meserole Street, between
Bushwick Place and Morgan
Avenue, where the characters go
to attend the best party ever in
Season 1. The low-key bar, Tom
& Jerrys on Elizabeth Street,
where Jessa, one of the characters,
goes to have a White Russian
cocktail is also highlighted on
the map.
FX show, Louie, starring
comedian Louis CK, also
showcases the citys little-known
gems. Hotspots such as Bens
Pizzeria and Comedy Cellar
in Greenwich Village, where
everyone from Jerry Seinfeld to
Chris Rock pop by to test new
material every once in a while,
feature prominently. Comedy
website, Splitsider (http://splitsider.
com), has created an interactive
map of the places Louis CKs
onscreen persona often visits.
QueeNstoWN, New Zealand

top of the lake
If The Lord of the Rings trilogy

attracting throngs of visitors to
the country wasnt enough, we
now have Top of the Lake, the
BBC mini-series starring Mad
Mens Elizabeth Moss, to thank
for a resurgence of interest. It is
filmed around Queenstown and
Glenorchy, whose mountains,
winding roads, dense forests
and bottomless lakes serve as
an excellent backdrop for this
crime drama. Jane Campion,
the shows creator, has what
she calls a hut in this part of
the country, and spends some
of each year here. Travellers
should visit Lake Wakatipu and
Skippers Canyon; the area also
offers bungee-jumping, boating
and paragliding. Eichardts
Private Hotel in Queenstown
a heritage property dating back
to the 1860s, which has five stylish
suitespromises to take care of
your adventure activities and all
Top of the Lake-related queries.
(www.tablethotels.com) Doubles
from NZ$1,250 ( 65,600)
Celebrate Holi in an Udaipur palace

HRH Group of Hotels, within the City
Palace-Udaipur, serves as the
perfect backdrop for a Holi
celebration like no other
Holi is a festival that we all celebrate with much

fervour. But for an experience like no other and a chance
to live like royalty, theres no better place than the City
Palace. Owned by Historic Resort Hotels (HRH) and the
House of Mewar, this is the site for all rituals, spectacles
and celebrations of the royal family. You can choose to
stay in one of the hotels owned by HRH (including Shiv
Niwas Palace, Fateh Prakash Palace, Jagmandir Island
Palace, Shikarbadi Hotel and Garden Hotel), which will
prove to be the perfect base to explore the region.
The Holika Dahan Ceremony (held on the first day

of the two-day Holi festival) is a time-honoured Eternal
Mewar Festival, which perpetuates centuries-old timehonoured traditions. A testimony to the living heritage of
Eternal Mewar, the festival represents Indias fascination
for the celebration of life through different seasons. The
Maharana of Mewar Charitable Foundation, in association with HRH Group of Hotels, now celebrates the
festival in its traditional form, offering a truly original and
authentic experience to guests in Udaipur.
This year, the festival falls on 16 March 2014. Witness

a magnificent palace procession that departs from the
royal residence, moving towards the Ban Nathji Temple,
finally culminating in all its pomp and splendour at the
historic Manek Chowk, Mardana Mahal in The City Palace, Udaipur. Observe royal etiquette and rituals as you
look upon the royal parade in their traditional attire
along with finely liveried palace staff, elegantly bedecked
horses and an impeccably turned-out band that leads
the cavalcade through the streets.
As twilight descends, look at the lighting of the sacred
fire, where an effigy of the corrupt Holika is burnt, thus
signifying the victory of good over evil. The spectacle is
accompanied by some truly haunting melodies that are
unique to the region. But thats not all. Evening celebrations will continue at The Zenana Mahal, a mesmerising
palace where the HRH Group of Hotels will prepare a
sumptuous feast for guests. With exotic beverages, special Holi delicacies and the presence of the royal family,
it will be a truly unmissable experience.
For more information on the Holi festival
celebrated with HRH Hotels in Udaipur, visit www.
eternalmewar.in or www.hrhhotels.com.
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
Planning your next wild getaway to party it up like

theres no tomorrow? Look no further than Bangkok
to get that ultimate heady experience of music, dance
and romance, at the most exclusive nightclubs and
swank sky bars around town.
The view from Vertigo
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
ReTRo-Cool
A celebrity hotspot, the Q Bar on Bangkoks buzzing Sukhumvit

Soi 11 strip has attracted famous faces like Mick Jagger and Colin
Farrell for its diverse bar poisons and DJ beats. The stunning
interiors of this trendy party spot are defined by a minimalist
style, black upholstered walls with neon lighting, retro swivel chair
and leather sofas. For a more intimate affair, head to the Upstairs
Lounge, also called Q UP, thats designed by the creators of the
world-famous Buddha Bars.
www.qbarbangkok.com
GeT in The GRooVe
Party in style at Levels, a high-end nightclub attached to Aloft hotel

on Sukhumvit, whose tall ceilings and circular glowing bar lit up
with a jazzy LED chandelier make it a glitzy hangout. Live up the
night to heavy house music spun by the resident DJs and other
visiting international acts.
www.aloftbangkoksukhumvit11.com
of RoofTops And jAzz
Perched on the 63rd floor of The Dome at Lebua, sirocco is

renowned as the worlds highest alfresco eatery and one of
Bangkoks favourite dining choices. Look out at a breathtaking
view of Bangkoks bright city lights against the Chao Phraya River,
Convention Centre at CentralWorld
while kicking back with a drink or two from the Sky Bar. Treat yourself
to Siroccos delectable Mediterranean food prepared using the finest
ingredients. And, keeping you entertained with their lilting tunes will be
live jazz performances and vocalists from around the world adding to
the magical ambience.
www.lebua.com/sirocco
sliCe of MAnhATTAn
If you enjoy that outdoorsy feel when unwinding after-hours, Marriott

Hotels signature rooftop bar, the octave Rooftop lounge & Bar, is the
ideal spot for a relaxing night out. The contemporary design of the Octave
is inspired by a New York apartment terrace and gives you a stunning view
of Bangkoks glittering skyline. Fill your glasses with the finest bubblies, and
pair your drink with their fusion cuisine like Asian-style tapas platters or
help yourself at the seafood bar.
www.facebook.com/OctaveMarriott
UnWind UndeR sTARRy skies
Wine and dine under a starlit sky at the stylish Vertigo, another open-air
bar and grill dotting Bangkoks party circuit. Situated on the 61st floor of the
Banyan Tree Hotel, Vertigo not only offers heady sights of the city, but also
plays host to special occasions if youre planning a private party. And, the Moon
Bars romantic ambience makes it a perfect place for a date night with your
special someone.
www.banyantree.com
Melody And MARTinis
A chic urban French bistro thats also a wine and martini bar, the Red sky on the
55th floor of Centara Grand at CentralWorld is a trendy spot to kick back on any
day of the week. In the evenings, the place comes alive with the lively tunes of the
resident trio musicians who perform every night.
www.centarahotelsresort.com/redsky
ABoVe And Beyond
Enjoy an international buffet spread and drinks at the highest sky bar in Bangkok,
The Rooftop Bar, perched on the 83rd floor of Baiyoke Sky Hotel, and experience the
thrills of a space-like ambience at the Sky Walk Revolving Roof Deck, and the hotels
Observation Deck.
www.baiyokehotel.com
for more information, visit
Website: www.tourismthailand.org
https://twitter.com/thaiamazesyou
www.facebook.com/tat.newdelhi
www.facebook.com/tourismauthorityofthailand
Word of mouth
Whats hot around the world H Argentina H goa Hthailand HJaipur
Marilyns
Los
AngeLes
photogrAph: geTTy
Fifty-two years after the mysterious

death of Marilyn Monroe, author
J I Baker takes us on a tour of the
blonde bombshells LA
Begin with afternoon tea at Wolfgang
Puck Bar & grill (www.hotelbelair.com)
in the recently renovated Hotel Bel-Air,
where Marilyn posed for Bert Sterns
famous Last Sitting photos, taken six
weeks before her death. Then, though
it may seem like an odd post-tea
destination, wander through the Pierce
Brothers Westwood Village Memorial
Park and Mortuary (+1 310 474 1579),
a quiet, eerie oasis. Marilyn lies near
Truman Capote and Dean Martin, and
Hugh Hefner has already reserved the
spot next to her. From the mortuary,
its a short jaunt to the santa Monica
Pier (http://santamonicapier.org),
the perennially popular amusement
park where Marilyn came disguised in
a wig to watchand envycarefree
families. Ride the solar-powered
Ferris wheel (so LA) before driving
past Peter Lawfords infamous beach
house (on Palisades Beach Road),
where she may have dallied with the
Kennedy brothers. Now, go to Canters
Deli (www.cantersdeli.com) on North
Fairfax Avenue to eat chocolate eclairs;
this is where Marilyn and her third
husband, Arthur Miller, noshed during
the 1950s. A six-minute drive away is
a special spot for Marilyn and husband
number two: The Rainbow Bar and
grill on West Sunset Boulevard was
once the Villa Nova restaurant, where
Monroe had her first (blind) date with
Joe DiMaggio. Finally, take a seat in
the Formosa Cafe (+1 323 850 9050),
a 1932 diner in a seedy stretch of
West Hollywood (on Santa Monica
Boulevard) that has had many celeb fans
from Monroe to Brad Pitt. Its dark,
black-and-red interiors evoke faded
1950s glamour, but the menu does
not: The Formosa serves okay Chinese
food and excellent, cheap drinks.
WheRe To sTAy
hotel Bel-Air
Follow in Monroes
footsteps and stay
here. (www.hotelbelair.
com) Doubles from
US$531 ( 32,785)
sunset Tower hotel
Monroe, Frank Sinatra,
John Wayne and
Elizabeth Taylor once
lived in this art deco
block on Sunset Strip.
The views make LAs
urban sprawl look
just like it does in the,
um, movies. (http://
sunsettowerhotel.
com) Doubles from
US$359 ( 22,165)
hoW To geT
The Look
Go platinum with the

help of colourist Negin
Zand at salon Benjamin
(www.salonbenjamin.
com) in West Hollywood.
She does Madonna and
the rest of Hollywoods
best blondes. At Cateye
spectacles (www.cateye
spectacles.com) on
North Heliotrope Drive,
ask an assistant for
vintage frames like
Monroes in How to
Marry a Millionaire. And
make an appointment
to browse the jewels
and chic clutches
at V Vintage (www.
vvintage90210.com)
in Beverly Hills.
Word of mouth
BETTER THAN BORDEAUX?

Above:
The pool at
Lapostolle
Residence
in Chile
For more than a decade, South American

winemakers have been striving to put
their bottles on a par with those from
Napa or France. As we all know, they have
made great stridesArgentinian wines
have climbed Wine Spectators Top 100
lists in recent yearsso what more do
they require? New hotels. In Argentinas
Mendoza Province, The Vines Resort &
Spa (www.vinesresortandspa.com) sells
small plots to amateur oenophiles. You

can develop your own vintage with the
help of an in-house wine consultant. Vines
glassy villas have Andes views, and the spa
is ideal for unwinding after a hard days
tasting. Another Mendoza newcomer,
Entre Cielos (www.entrecielos.com)

has 16 rooms built around a luxurious
hammam. Across Chiles snowcapped
peaks, near Santiagoless than an hour
from Mendoza by planethe couple
behind Uruguays fabulous Vik Retreats is
opening the 22-room Via VIK (www.vik.
cl). On nearly 11,000 acres, with 12 valleys
of vineyards, the hotel is set to open fully
in the first half of 2014, with horse-riding,
wine tastings and hiking. Via Vik has
competition in Clos Apalta Winery and its
four-casita hotel, Lapostolle Residence
(www.lapostolle.com), whose restaurant
has a vine-swathed pergola and hillside
vineyard views. EIMEAR LYNCH
TIGER, TIGER
BURNING BRIGHT
Passionate conservationist Valmik
Thapar has dedicated his whole
life to saving the wild tigers of
India. His latest book, Tiger Fire,
is a beautiful and ambitious
chronicle of 500 years of these
majestic mammals in India. It
combines high-quality, nonfiction writing with spectacular
photographs, unique drawings
(left) and artworks of this regal
predator. It also includes recent
studies about the endangered
species. Tiger Fire by Valmik
Thapar (Aleph Book Company;
2,995) is out now.
SARITA SANTOSHINI
SANTA RITAS
2007 PEHUN
Spicy, with ripe

tannins (www.
santarita.com)
DOMUS AUREAS
2007 CABERNET
SAUVIGNON
This hints at menthol

(www.global
vineyard.com)
J. BOUCHONS
2009 LAS MERCEDES
ENSAMBLAJE
It has an elegant
balance (www.
jbouchon.cl)
AMAYNAS 2011
SAUVIGNON BLANC
A fruitier sauvignon
blanca charming
aperitif (www.vgs.cl)
ALMAVIVAS 2009
A fine vintage thats

persistentyou
remember it (www.
almavivawinery.com)
Laced
with
love
Design Temple has
created a range
of heatand-stainresistant Memsahib
stools, inspired
by intricate lace
tablecloths
found in
homes around
the world. Place
one of these in
your living room;
its a vase holder and
a conversation starter
combined. (www.
designtemple.com)
From 47,500
NEW IN NYC The 54-storey Hyatt Times Square New York opens in December; its rooms have superb views of The Big Apple. (www.hyatt.com)
TEXT: JASREEN MAYAL KHANNA PHOTOGRAPH: JONAS UNGER
THE DRINK
Via VIKs chief
oenologist Patrick
Valette names five
Chilean bottles to seek
out and enjoy
Hyatt Regency Delhi Residence

launched.
Now you have a new address to call home- 29 fully serviced and ready-to-move-in
apartments designed by leading architects 1508 London. They are situated in the
most sought-after location in Delhi. Featuring comprehensive security systems and
basic amenities to make a stay truly comfortable, they are now available in one, two
or three bedrooms for rent and lease.
For more information, please e-mail your queries to delhi.regency@hyatt.com, visit
delhi.regency.hyatt.com or simply call the residence manager on +91 9873 162 947
Hyatt. You're More Than Welcome.
HYATT REGENCY DELHI RESIDENCE
Bhikaiji Cama Place,

New Delhi 110 066
HYATT name, design and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt International Corporation. 2013 Hyatt International Corporation. All rights reserved.
Word of mouth
SLEEP: Siolim House
DRINK: Bardo
EAT: La Plage
DRINK: Bardo
The fourth edition of the Goa Arts and Literary Festival, attended by some of Indias best authors
Dont and poets. (58 Dec; www.goaartlitfest.com) The Goa River Marathon, where you can run for a cause.
miss (8 Dec; www.goarivermarathon.com) The procession at Reis Magos village during the Feast of Three
Kings, which reenacts the story of the three kings bearing gifts for Christ. (6 Jan; www.goatourism.gov.in)
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY; TOM PARKER
SLEEP: Marbela Beach Resort
Word of mouth
Zoned in: Goa
Avoid Baga and Calangutes overcrowded beaches and head north to the Morjim-Ashwem
stretch, where a slew of boutique hotels, chic bars and cool stores are drawing the it crowd
SLEEP Putting a wonderful
seaside twist on the idea of
desert-safari tents, Amarya
Shamiyana plays the rustic
hospitality card to the hilt. With
cosy, tented accommodation,
cheerful staff and pleasant
service, you can live out your
Arabian Nights fantasy on the
seashore. (www.amaryagroup.
com) Doubles from 7,900
Siolim House, a palatial
Portuguese mansion in the heart
of a Goan village, offers guests a
stylish brush with authentic local
life. The property, which is more
than 300 years old, is replete
with antique furniture, verdant
gardens and a pool. (www.
siolimhouse.com) Doubles
from 8,300
Set on a pristine stretch of
beach in Morjim, the Marbela
Beach Resort, with its tepees
and tents, is hugely popular with
the swish set for its sundowners
and full-moon parties. This
season, the resort reopens
with new tented suites and a
SLEEP: Siolim House
renovated pool. Its five-room,

one-suite sister hotel Marbela
Home is also within walking
distance and has access to the
main resorts excellent spa and
day club. (www.marbelabeach.
(Marbela Beach Resort) and
7,000 (Marbela Home)
Riva Beach Resort brings
together sun, sand, sea and
splendour. Known for its
spacious rooms and delicious
Goan cuisine, this place is
ideal for a fun family holiday.
(www.rivaresorts.com) Doubles
from 6,000
DRINK Wine and dine at
Bardo, North Goas smartest
entertainment destination. During
the day, make the most of the
organic spa or chill beside a 100ft
pool. But, as the sun goes down,
dance the night away to a heady
line-up of local and international
DJs. (www.bardogoa.com)
If youre a fan of electronic
music, go to SOMA Project, a
cool bar, club and restaurant on
the Ashwem beachfront. While

the bar serves wines bottled
at Sula Vineyards, the clubs
DJs keep the crowd on its feet
by spinning music late into the
night. (098226 42624)
EAT La Plage is one of Ashwems
funkiest beachside restaurants,
best known for its creative take
on French food. No trip to North
Goa is complete without sampling
a few dishes from its innovative
menu, which includes mains
such as terrines and gratins,
and a quirky chocolate thali for
dessert. (098221 21712)
You could easily walk right
past Fellinis on the main road
in Arambol, but step inside and
youll be blown away. Serving
wood-fired pizzas cooked in
a stone oven and home-style
pasta made with wholesome,
fresh ingredients, this is as
authentic as Italian food gets in
these parts. (098814 61224)
Dont be intimidated by
snazzy Sur la Mers stiff-upperlip menu, featuring escargots,
lobster and beef carpaccio. The
place exudes an easy charm that
invites you to lounge around and
dine over a few hours. Ensure
you leave room for their famous
SHOP: Jade Jagger

Beach Boutique
chocolate fondant. (www.

surlamergoa.com)
SNACK The trend to eat
healthy, organic food has caught
on in Goa. Om Made Caf,
a cheery little shack in Ashwem
(also in Anjuna and Baga),
dishes out hearty sandwiches,
fresh smoothies and sumptuous
desserts made with locally
sourced, mostly organic produce.
(www.ommadecafe.com)
Little shack-caf Pink Orange
is a great place for a detox,
serving an all-veggie range of
fresh and (partly) organic food
and drink. (098223 47462)
If partying all night leaves you
craving for a pick-me-up, head
to the Nespresso Bar at Amarya
Shamiyana for a coffee of your
choice and some simple snacks.
Its upbeat, colourful dcor will
definitely cheer you up. (www.
amaryagroup.com)
SHOP Just beside 1971 Bar
on Ashwem Beach is the Jade
Jagger Beach Boutique. A burst of
colour emanates from the British
designers Goan outpost, which
has a decidedly bohemian look.
Browse through her diaphanous
dresses and chunky statement
jewellery to create your own
Goan beach-hippie look. (www.
jadejagger.co.uk)
Also on Ashwem Beach, Dust
is a boutique that sells an eclectic
collection of clothing made with
raw textiles and inspired by tribal
designsthink bold block prints,
raw silk and pure-cotton fabrics
for both men and women. (Next to
Jade Jagger Beach Boutique)
CHILL Counter a weekend of
partying and drinking with a detox
retreat at Sushumna Yoga School
& Studios, where you can choose
between various schools of yoga,
including Iyengar, Ashtanga and
Mysore. (www.sushumna.in)
REvATI UPADHYA
Word of mouth
THE YEAR IN FILM
FESTIVALS
We tell you where to rub shoulders with your favourite stars
exclusive shindigs,
rent a boat with
friends through
Boatbookings
Last year saw the likes of

directors Ang Lee (below) and
Mira Nair in attendance.
CNT TIP Stay at either
Cidade de Goa resort
(www.cidadedegoa.
com) on the secluded
Vainguinim Beach or
(www.boatbookings.
com) and have your own bash.
(www.festival-cannes.fr)
JULY
KARLOVY VARY
INTERNATIONAL
FILM FESTIVAL,
Czech Republic
Vivanta by Taj - Fort

Aguada (www.tajhotels.
com), where most of the

film fraternity hangs out.
(www.iffi.nic.in)
JANUARY
SUNDANCE FILM
FESTIVAL, UTAH
FEBRUARY
BERLINALE
This event, held in Park City,

shines light on independent
films that have gone on to
become box-office hits and
award-season favourites
(such as Reservoir Dogs and
Little Miss Sunshine).
CNT TIP The best afterhours spots are Park City
Live (http://parkcitylive.net),
situated in a warehouse, with
three bars, a stage and a huge
dance floor, and The Star
Bar (www.starbarutah.com),
where the actors go after
screenings to catch
live music by famous acts
such as Courtney Love.
(www.sundance.org)
This has as many as 400

screenings, which nonprofessionals can attend, too.
CNT TIP One of the highlights
is Culinary Cinema at
Gropius Mirror Restaurant,
where film screenings are
paired with dishes inspired by
the movie being shown that
night. (www.berlinale.de)
MAY
FESTIVAL DE CANNES
More than 40,000 professionals

attend this glamorous event
along the French Riviera.
CNT TIP Last year, amid
jewellery heists and gunshots,
models Cara Delevingne
and Alessandra Ambrosio
attended Roberto Cavallis
yacht party. And if you cant
sneak your way into such
Several concerts are held

at around the same time,
making this one of the coolest
events to attend. Karlovy
Vary, a spa city near Prague,
is unbeatable as the venue.
CNT TIP The Mill Colonnade,
with several hot springs, is
a great gathering spot; lots
of bands perform there in
the evenings. (www.kviff.com)
SEPTEMBER
TORONTO
INTERNATIONAL
FILM FESTIVAL
The road to Oscar glory often

starts in Canada. This event
creates a buzz around films
that later win Best Picture;
for instance, 2012 winner,
Argo, had its premire here.
CNT TIP Book a table at
The Chase (www.thechase
toronto.com) in the Financial
District. This penthouse
restaurant serves modern
Smartphone art
Carry the world in your pocket with Crude Areas

latest collection of travel-themed iPhone covers.
Pick from 50 to 60 vibrant designs, including this
Russia case (right) by American artist Anna See.
(www.crudearea.com) From 920
Canadian cuisine, with

a focus on seafood. Actors
Jake Gyllenhaal (below)
and Jessica Chastain have
been spotted here in the past.
(http://tiff.net)
SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER
FESTIVAL DO RIO
The historic Odeon Petrobas
cinema in downtown Rio is

the centre of all the action.
CNT TIP Last year, most of the
guests, including actor Dakota
Fanning, stayed at the newly
refurbished Miramar Hotel by
Windsor (www.windsorhoteis.
com) on Copacabana
Beach. (www.festivaldorio.
com.br)
OCTOBER
BUSAN
INTERNATIONAL
FILM FESTIVAL,
South Korea
With the cult-like popularity

of Korean films, this is Asias
largest film festival.
CNT TIP Visitors to this
event in Busan, near Seoul,
should enjoy the seafood and
stop by the Busan Modern
History Museum (http://
museum.busan.go.kr), which
brings to light the towns role
in the Korean War and its
subsequent relationship
with the US. (www.biff.kr)
SUNAYANA KUMARI
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY
DECEMBER
INTERNATIONAL FILM
FESTIVAL OF INDIA, GOA
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
MYSTERY, MAGIC,
MALAYSIA
Turns out one night in
Malaysia is not enough.
Or even 10. Think of
Malaysia as the worlds
best bartender, and all
its cities as different
types of cocktails what
youll get is a tray-full of
the best concoctions
that will leave you
craving for more (and
more). When the sun
sets in Malaysia, all you
will be asking yourself is
where to go next?
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
hile a day in the capital city of Kuala Lumpur may be a

colourful hodgepodge of bustling streets, cultural sights
and beautiful cityscapes, the night will take a 180 degree
turn with dance, (lots of) booze and music. Start the evening at
Tom Dick & Harrys Live Bar sipping on delicious margaritas and
enjoying live performances. The Heli Lounge Bar, a bar and helipad
rooftop with dizzying views of the city, is another great choice for
your 7pm tipple. But when you enter Club Neverland, you might just
find yourself never wanting to leave. Peter Pan and Tinkerbell may be
nowhere in sight, but the place is as magical with its impressive neon
displays and stunning 3D projections. And if its your last night in the
city, Zouk Kuala Lumpur will serve as the perfect parting souvenir.
Malaccas cultural, colonial and historical sites may fall asleep at
night, but theres much else in sizzling contrast thats full of life. Hard
Rock Cafe has brilliant live bands that make up its calendar nights.
But to mingle and meet the locals, as well as other fellow travellers,
book an evening at Geographer Cafe at Jonker Street. For large
groups looking for a great place to party, Mixx is an obvious choice: it
has four different party rooms for every kind of reveller.
If the sight of a cold beers frothy foam excites you or the smoke
from the barbecue grill gets you heated up, no matter where you go in
Penang, youll get the whole package here. Have a personal choice of
champagne or desire a steak thats cooked to perfection? The place to

go is China House. But if you prefer an enigma to enthral your night,
Nueve (which means nine in Spanish) will serve up a mystery surprise
at the strike of nine, every night. And if wine is your poison, when you
visit That little wine bar, youll soon learn that theres nothing little
about their selection of vintage and modern wines. For a night under
the stars on the beach replete with tiki huts and fairy lights, Bora Bora
by Sunset Bistro is a must-visit.
Then you have Langkawi where you can enjoy a cold brew
while you watch the orange sunset across the ocean. Or watch
traditional dancers put on a show you wont forget. An island dotted
by bars all around some that offer you a night of karaoke, while
others are spinning electronic beats. But the beer gardens are what
you just cant miss. Head down to Beach Garden Resort Bistro
& Beergarden to be convinced. For a round of drinks during happy
hours, go to Bar Centro located at Telaga Harbour Park. Or burn the
midnight oil with some themed cocktails at La Sal Restaurant And
Cocktail Bar.
Malaysia offers some of the most exciting nightlife experiences
for every kind of party animal. Even if it takes a few trips to get
through them all, its always worth coming back
Word of mouth
Crazy Aussie WHATS HOT IN JAIPUR?

billionaires
While most of the worlds
tycoons buy mansions and
yachts, these three bigwigs
from Down Under use their
fortunes in unusual ways
CLIVE
PALMER
The owner of
mining company
Mineralogy,
estimated
by Forbes to be worth US$895
million ( 5,524 crore), has recently
commissioned a replica
of the Titanic, the iconic
luxury cruise liner that
sank in 1912. The project has been
rumoured to cost between US$500
million ( 3,086 crore) and US$800
million ( 4,937 crore) and will be
completed in 2016. In addition,
Palmer is also planning to create
a robotic Jurassic Park and is
awaiting the arrival of more than 100
animatronic dinosaurs from China to
add to his Palmer Coolum Resort.
The media mogul

and founder of
News Corp has
plans to use his
wealth to create his own football
league. After losing the broadcast
rights of the English Premier
League to NBC, Murdoch is
creating a summer fantasy
football tournament for

fun, starting in 2015. It will
feature Europes elite football
players competing in exotic locales
all around the world, from Beijing to
Los Angeles.
GINA
RINEHART
The mining
tycoon is the
fifth richest
woman in
the world, estimated to be
worth US$17 billion ( 10,492
crore). In 1999, she used her
influence to petition for a
mountain range to be named

after her family; and, even
more amazingly, she succeeded.
Hancock Range, named after her
late father, is located in Western
Australia, 65km north of
the town of Newman.
TICKET TO
TIMBUKTU
This brand
produces
handcrafted
footwear
using recycled
materials.
Its Blur
Silver shoes
(pictured) are
made of jute.
(www.ticket
totimbuktu.
com) From
5,500
With the DSC Jaipur Literature Festival just

around the corner, we pick the citys coolest
new shops, cafs, restaurants and bars
hopping in Jaipur has never been better. Clothing at the new Ambika
Concept - Cafe and Store (www.ambikaconcept.com) blends Indian
fabrics with Western designs. Browse its collection of dresses and

carefully draped kimonos. The best part? The store comes with an IndoPortuguese caf, where you can enjoy some homemade tapas in a garden
setting after a long days shopping. Situated nearby is Dzurt (098283 95748),
a ptisserie run by Le Cordon Bleu Paris-trained chef, Tejasvi Chandela; try
the lemon-drizzle or red-velvet cakes. If youre still peckish and feel like a light
European meal, head to On the House (014 1331 9201; extension 108), on
Ramesh Marg, which serves pasta and breads such as kolache and challah.
When night-time falls, head to hip The Living Room (www.nailabaghpalace.
com) at Naila Bagh Palace, which, this year, is hosting parties for famous
authors wholl be attending the literature festival. The playlist promises to
be eclectic and the drinks stiff. From Wednesday until Saturday each week,
Amazon (099826 31769) restaurant, at the Ginger Hotel, morphs into a lounge
whose forest-themed interiors are lit up by LED lights. Try out its retro, electroswing night on Thursdays. And live music fans will love Cafe Kalapani (014
1403 1020), which is quickly becoming the citys most popular venue to enjoy
anything from classical Indian vocals to dubstep, on Sundays.
The DSC Jaipur Literature Festival (http://jaipurliteraturefestival.org) takes place
from 17-21 January AMRITHA JOHN
TEXT: JASREEN MAYAL KHANNA; NIKHITA MAHTANI PHOTOGRAPHS: SHUTTERSTOCK; GETTY; DINESH KHANNA
RUPERT
MURDOCH
Word of mouth
Thailands next
cool island
Twenty years ago, Koh Phangan was a messy must-go on

the Thai backpacker trail. Now its having a sophisticated
rebirth, says Nell McShane Wulfhart
ThE diGs
ThEn A cold-water-only
hostel within stumbling
distance of the party
nOW Kupu Kupu Phangan,
a Bali-inspired boutique hotel
with two suites and 20 villas,
each with a private pool, on the
undeveloped west coast. (www.
kupuresorts.com) Doubles from
THB4,680 ( 8,740)
ThE REsTaURanT
ThE PaRTY PlaCE
ThEn Haad Rin Beach at

full moon
nOW The same. Even highflyers sneak out of their luxury
hotels around midnight to be
part of the action.
ThE POisOn
ThEn A plastic bucket of Thai

whisky, Red Bull and ice, with
straws for sharing
nOW A Finding Nemo cocktail
(similar to a mango-laced Mai
Tai) at The Coast Resort, a new,
ultra-modern spot that hosts
weekly sunset pool parties.
(www.thecoastresorts.com)
in ThE lUGGaGE
ThEn Flowing fishermens

trousers, a copy of Zen and the
Art of Motorcycle Maintenance
nOW An iPad mini, the latest
issue of the Robb Report,
designer shades
ThE sOUndTRaCK
ThEn Jamming by Bob Marley

nOW Jamming, the remix by
Benny Benassi
ThE RECOVERY
ThEn A few hours nap on

the beach
nOW A five-night detox at
rustic-chic The Sanctuary.
(www.thesanctuarythailand.
com) Detox doubles from
THB1,490 ( 2,800)
PhoTograPh: 4CorNerS
ThEn Guest houses serving

bhang lassis
nOW Luna Lounge, a laidback spot on Thong Nai
Pan Noi beach, with a menu
of barbecued red snapper
and lemon grass cocktails.
(www.luna-restaurantphangan.com)
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Monte Carlo to Venice | April 7, 2014 | 10 Nights
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Where to stay
Our picks in H Madrid H Nilgiris H Andermatt H Munnar
A-list hoteliers
phOtOgrAph: MiChael WeSChler/CorbiS ouTliNe/ CliCK PhoToS
Meet the superstars who have enthralled the world with their films and are now impressing
everyone with their hospitality. By Sunayana Kumari
BEDFORD POST INN

Owned by: Richard Gere
This Relais & Chteaux
property is spread across 14
acres in Westchester County,
a leafy New York suburb
thats just an hours drive
from Manhattan. Gere,
who was once voted the
Sexiest Man Alive (People
magazine; 1999) and played
lead roles in films such
as Pretty Woman and An
Officer and a Gentleman,
is the proud owner of this
18th-century inn. The actors
Buddhist faith and love
of the East can be seen
everywheretheres a yoga
studio, a bamboo-deck
balcony, and two farm-totable restaurants. The menu
at Farmhouse leans towards
contemporary Italian
dishes, made with seasonal
ingredients. Hits include
the ricotta ravioli laced
with black truffle, and the
burrata served with shaved
pear. The inn has eight
lavish rooms, with terraces
that overlook emeraldgreen hills. The interiors
comprise high-post beams,
fireplaces and limed-oak
doors. Despite the exacting
service standards and the
minimalist dcor, guests
will have the impression
of staying in someones
homein this case, a bona
fide celebritys. (www.
bedfordpostinn.com) Doubles
from US$395 ( 24,600)
Richard Gere with Carey

Lowell at Bedford Post Inn,
Westchester County, in 2010
Where to stay
COPPOLA
RESORTS
Owned by: Francis
Ford Coppola
He is one of
Hollywoods greatest directors
and has given us classics such
as The Godfather Trilogy and
Apocalypse Now; yet nowadays
Coppola is known to spend more
time on his vineyards and resorts
than on a film set. Speaking
of his hotels across South and
Central America, and now Italy,
the acclaimed director says, I
plan, design and furnish them
myself, with my family as test
customers. He also confirms that
the five hotels he owns reflect
his own priorities, such as good
bedside reading lights, big shelves
in the bathrooms and great
art. His latest project, Palazzo
Margherita, is in Bernalda in
Italys lesser-known Basilicata
WHATS
HOT
Palazzo Margherita mirrors the

essence of Francis Ford Coppolas
lifestyle: a love of family, food
and all things beautiful
region. It gives visitors a chance
to be in Italy without having to
feel like a tourist, says Coppola.
The large rooms of this palatial
country house come with floorto-ceiling windows, frescoed
walls and ceilings, and private
courtyards. Opt for the La Dolce
Vita experience, which features
excursions to local markets and
ancient wine cellars, as well as
cooking classes and tastings at the
property. The resort mirrors the
essence of Coppolas lifestyle
as film audiences know it: a love
of family, food and all things
beautiful. (www.coppolaresorts.
com) Doubles from 720 ( 60,700)
ACRES WILD
Owned by:
Mansoor Khan
The Bollywood
director nursed
a dream to have a farm up in the
hills near Coonoor much before
he found success with films such
as Qayamat Se Qayamat Tak
and Jo Jeeta Wohi Sikandar. Ive
always wanted to live in a quiet
place, where I could grow my own
things, he says. Today, he and his
family share this 22-acre farm with
hybrid Jersey-and-Holstein cows,
birds and fish. A Colby cottage,
two Cheddar houses and two
Haloumi houses round off the
accommodation options on the
farm and, as the names suggest,
one of the key activities here is
cheesemaking. The farm was
discovered by Bengalurus IT
crowd, who were keen to escape
their urban lives for a while,
explains Khan, who is happy to
spend time with his guests and
discuss sustainable living with
them. (www.acres-wild.com)
Doubles from 4,500
This December, actor-turned-hotelier Mithun Chakrabortys The Monarch hotel in

Masinagudi is offering guests a horse-riding package, where visitors can ride across
the Nilgiris forested land. (www.mithunhotels.com) Doubles from 2,600
PhoTograPhs: ToM parker; geTTy; foToCorp
Clockwise from
top left: A suite
at Palazzo
Margherita;
an outdoor
area at Palazzo
Margherita;
Mansoor Khans
wife, Tina, at
Acres Wild farm;
fresh cheese
at Acres Wild
THE BIG SLEEP

Owned by: John
Malkovich
The critically
acclaimed actor
has played roles as diverse as
the disgruntled son, Biff Loman,
in Death of a Salesman, and
a libertine version of himself in
Being John Malkovich. But he
also co-owns three wonderfully
kitsch properties in the UKs
towns of Cardiff, Cheltenham
and Eastbourne. Malkovichs
hotels are no-frills, much like the
man himself. The one in Cardiff
is a 60s office block with graphic
wallpapers, pod-style seating
and modish furniture across its
81 rooms. The best part? Rooms
are surprisingly affordable, with
a penthouse that costs just under
100 ( 10,100) per night. (www.
thebigsleephotel.com) Doubles
from 29 ( 2,930)
Where to stay
H CNT EXCLUSIVE H
the Chedi
andermatt
This winter, another magnificent property is

hitting the Swiss Alps, this time in the hip and happening
ski destination of Andermatt. Laura Griffith-Jones reports
SNEAK PEEK
A guest room at The

Chedi Andermatt
ith spectacular mountains

surrounding it, a sprinkling
of superb places to stay and
a timeless village vibe, youd think that
fashionable Andermatt in Switzerlands
Urseren Valley already had it all. But yet
another string has been added to its bow.
The Chedi Andermattthe Asian hotel
groups first Swiss propertyopens its
doors to its first guests on 7 December.
Designed by architect Jean-Michel
Gathy, the hotel combines a chic,
alpine look with innovative, modern
Asian dcor and architecture. The
106 spacious guest rooms and suites
(ranging from 560sq ft to 1,442sq ft) are
lavish (supple-leather sofas, fireplaces,
sheepskin throws, pillow-top mattresses,
enormous bathtubs) yet understated
(soft tones, warm natural stone,

polished-wood panelling and floors).
Each room has views of jutting peaks,
snowy village scenes, Mount Gemsstock
or the Schllenen Gorge. The result?
A soothing space in which to revitalise
after a long day spent swishing down
Andermatts star-studded ski slopes.
The hotel has its own outdoor iceskating rink, a ski-in living room and
a vast wellness centre kitted out with
hydrothermal baths, Finnish saunas
and two swimming pools.
And once youve tried various
holistic therapies in the spa, you can
unwind with a glass of vino in The Wine
and Cigar Library, where one entire
wall is hidden by a floor-to-ceiling bottle
rack; or sup a Swiss coffee beside The
Courtyards crackling firepit, encircled

by moonlit mountains. Complete an
idyllic evening by feasting on Swiss,
European and Asian dishes at The
Restaurant, with its oversized chandeliers
and dim, atmospheric lighting.
the Chedi andermatt
Gotthardstrasse 4, CH-6490 Andermatt
(www.ghmhotels.com) Doubles from
CHF650 ( 44,630)
GettinG there Fly to Zrich with Swiss
air (www.swiss.com) or emirates (www.
emirates.com. Stopover in Dubai) from
Mumbai and New Delhi. From there, its
a scenic, one-and-a-half-hour drive to
the centre of Andermatt.
When to Go The hotel is open all year
round, but for the best ski conditions,
go between November and April.
Where to stay
H CNT EXCLUSIVE H
THE WIND MUNNAR
sneak peek Think of Kerala and visions of verdant hills and tea plantations come to mind. But
this new hideaway boasts of more than just a spectacular location, says Janhavi Acharekar
ituated at the highest point in

Chinnakanal, The Wind is a world
away from the bustling town of
Munnar, 21km away. It is within easy
reach of the regions spice plantations,
the Anayirankal Dam and megalithic
burial chambers (locally known as
maniyaras, they are the areas best-kept
secret) that stretch from Chinnakanal
to Marayoor.
Owner Noby Abraham strongly
believes in personalised service. He
and his helpful staff can recommend
spice-plantation tours, and trails in the
Eravikulam National Parkhome to
the Nilgiri Tahr, a species of mountain
A view of The Wind

Munnar, Kerala
goat known to climb sheer cliff faces.

To assuage mountain-weary limbs,
guests can go to the tranquil spa at
nearby SpiceTree resort and choose
from a variety of rejuvenating massages.
The Winds eight cliffside, cottagestyle rooms are perfect for those who
find the uniformity of big, luxury hotels
unappealing yet still seek those creature
comforts. Theyre cosy, well-appointed
and have stunning, often misty, views
of the mountains and valleys.
The chefs at the hotels restaurantwith-a-view can handle all manner of
special requests. Service is a bit slow but
the fooda mix of local, Chinese, North
Indian and European cuisinesis worth
the wait. However, when in Kerala, you
should eat as they do, so dont forgo the
amazing Kuttanadan kozhi curry or meen

mulakittathu. Vegetarians have a limited
but sumptuous choice of local dishes such
as mildy spiced, coconut-based curries.
The simple coriander soup is supreme.
Much like the delicious taste of its
food, The Wind Munnar has a unique
flavour that lingers on.
THE WIND MUNNAR
Periyakanal-Muttukad Road, Chinnakanal,
Munnar, Kerala (www.thewindmunnar.
GETTING THERE You can fly to Kochi
with SpiceJet (www.spicejet.com) or
IndiGo (https://book.goindigo.in) from
all major Indian cities. From there, its
a three-and-a-half-hour drive to Munnar.
WHEN To Go Avoid the monsoon, which
is usually between June and September.
POINTS
Now earn points on stays at the
most celebrated hotels in the
world. Then redeem those points
for cash-value reward certificates
valid for room charges,
hotel amenities, or services*

at over 450 participating
hotels around the world.
Visit iPrefer.com/CNTIndia
to explore the collection.
REWARDS
THE ZURI WHITEFIELD BENGALURU Bangalore, India

*varies by hotel
2014 Preferred Hotel Group
Where to stay
Mary Lussiana chooses four of the best hotels in the irrepressible Spanish capital
Classic
Splurge
Design
Good value
HOTEL RITZ MADRID
VILLA MAGNA
ME MADRID REINA
VICTORIA
HOTEL DE LAS LETRAS
On busy Plaza de Santa

Ana, opposite the Teatro
In the heart of Madrid on

Gran Va. The house where
Cervantes lived and died in
the 17th century is nearby
Location Near the citys best museums,

including the Prado and
Museo Nacional Centro
de Arte Reina Sofia
Look
Crowd
Built in 1910 at the request

of King Alfonso XIII, this is
a treasure-trove of wildly
grand, oldworld charm
Everyone who is anyone
has stayed here, from
Somerset Maugham
to Julia Roberts
Rooms
137 rooms and 30 suites, with

marble bathrooms
and sumptuous
embroidered linen
Eating &
drinking
Go to Goya for
fancy Spanish
dining with
a Basque twist
Best thing The impeccable
service and the hotels
homemade violet ice cream
Worst thing Charging 8 ( 680) for a
small bottle of Evian from

the minibar
Doubles from 300
( 25,250)
Price
Contact
LOOK
HERE
Plaza de la Lealtad 5, 28014

(+34 91 701 6767; www.
ritzmadrid.com)
Theres equal access to

designer boutiques and
the 18th-century palaces
of Salamanca
Low-key, decorated in milky

colours, with a highvoltage
celebrity quotient
Brad and
Angelina, George
Clooney and
Johnny Depp
150 generous but

understated rooms and
suites decorated with
striking modern art
Espaol and a short walk

from great art galleries
A refined 1919 faade,
with sleek interiors
and a cool vibe
Once favoured by
matadors and Ernest
Hemingway, now a
magnet for fashionistas
180 rooms and 12 suites;
the Passion Suites and
the Suite ME have wooden
decks and big jacuzzis
Dim sum at Tse Yang;
MEs rooftop bar

modern Mediterranean has live DJs and
dishes at Restaurante serves Madrids
best cocktails
Villa Magna
The wonderful light

and the feeling of space
everywhere you look
The buildings exterior
is a real eyesore
The signature
ME Black Mojito
Many of the standard
rooms have views of
the internal courtyard
Inside this 1917 heritage

building, guests linger
over coffee in the bar
or read in the library
Spanish business travellers
in the week, American and
European holidaymakers
at the weekend
109 rooms in vivid
colours; literary quotes
ranging from Jane Austen
to Goethe are everywhere
Modern Spanish such as
tomato gazpacho with
cucumber sorbet at De
las Letras Restaurant
The original 1917 lift,
one of the first in Madrid
Despite clever planning, it

still feels a little cramped
Doubles from 310

( 26,090)
Doubles from 128

( 10,770)
Doubles from 112

( 9,425)
Paseo de la Castellana 22,

28046 (+34 91 587 1234;
www.villamagna.es)
Plaza de Santa Ana 14,

28012 (+34 91 701 6000;
www.memadrid.com)
Gran Va 11, 28013 (+34 91

523 7980; www.hoteldelas
letras.com)
For great peoplewatching, head to the terrace of the elegant Hotel Hospes Madrid (www.hospes.com)
on Plaza de la Independencia where, yearround, you can enjoy anything from morning coffee and
churros to tapas, with wonderful views of the neoclassical monument, Puerta de Alcal
ROOM SERVICE
Madrid
Associate Partner
Preview Partner
Luxury Media Partner
Thursday 30th January

VIP Preview: 3:00 pm - 5:00 pm
VIP Vernissage: 5:00 pm - 10:00 pm
Cocktail Reception
Friday - Saturday 31st - 1st February

Business Hours: 11:00 am - 2:00 pm
Public Hours: 2:00 pm - 8:00 pm
Last entry at 7:00 pm
Sunday 2nd February

Public Hours: 11:00 am - 6:00 pm
Last entry at 5:00 pm
DECEMBER JUST GOT HOTTER!
DEC
2013
OUR GUIDE TO
CUSTOMISING
YOUR
WARDROBE
HELLO
MR
VOGUE!
MEET THE MEN
WE LOVE
Ranveer Singh
Shikhar Dhawan
Saif Ali Khan
Varun Dhawan
Benedict Cumberbatch
Karan Johar
Imran Khan
Nawazuddin Siddiqui
and more
GET THE
BODY FOR
THE DRESS
YOU WANT
TO WEAR
HOW
TH E VO GU
E FO OD &
DR INK GU
IDE 201 4
KATRINA
TAMED BOLLYWOOD
A complimentary guide to bars
and restaurants you cant miss
Bangalore Ch
ennai Delhi
Goa Gurga
on Hyderaba
d Kolkata Mu
mbai Pune
The ultimate
guide to bars
and restaura
nts you cant
miss
View
Why we travel H Dubais best restaurants H Airport Face-off
Bollywood
in pakistan
PHotogrAPH: geTTy MAP: Radhika MaheshwaRi
No matter what the political situation, the Hindi film industry has a remarkable ability
to unite the people of India and Pakistan, says Fatima Bhutto
eshawar has always been beautiful.

Once the summer city of the
Mughal emperors, it was also
the seat of great Gandharan art under
the Kushan king, Kanishka, and a
respected centre of Buddhist learning.
At the crossroads of Central and South
Asia, Peshawar is a place of legends.
The Buddhas begging bowl rested in
the Gorkhatri neighbourhood, where
centuries of yogis came to meditate.
Indias tallest stupa was built herein
an area now enveloped in shanty homes
(according to local lore, it was in Peshawar
that the Japanese and Chinese were
inspired to build pagodas after pilgrims
visited the stupa). It is the birthplace of the
Taliban and the confluence of the politics
that changed the face of Afghanistan
Top: A cinema showing Bollywood films

in Peshawar
and Pakistan 30 years ago. But one of its

greatest legends is one that both India
and Pakistan share: Bollywood.
Dilip Kumar, once Muhammad
Yusuf Khan, was born in the citys Qissa
Khwani Bazaar andbefore he left for
Pune and Mumbai, where he worked
as a fruit sellerit was in this frontier
city that his family planted its orchards.
In the nearby Dhaki Nalbandi area,
Raj Kapoor, another one of Peshawars
famous sons, was born. And in all the
decades that have gone past, these
legends have never dimmed. Dilip
Kumars cousins still reside in the city
and Raj Kapoor never forgot the taste
of Pakistani mangoes (or so Pakistanis
insist). Even Shah Rukh Khan has a bit
of Pathan in him; his father was from r
We never turned against Indian cinema, no matter

how bad the situation was between our countries
Sabeen, bollyWooD fan from pakIStan
the same area as Dilip Kumar and was
an activist in the freedom movement
alongside Khan Abdul Ghaffar Khan,
the Frontier Gandhi.
For Pakistanis, Bollywood is a
demilitarised zone. As tense as India and
Pakistans politics are, and as wounded
as both countries were by the horrors of
Partition, Pakistan has long maintained a
love affair with India through its cinema.
We grew up on Indian films, says
Mohsin Sayeed, a 44-year-old satirist
and social commentator from Karachi.
We see ourselves in their heroes; we
identify with the characters in their
films (in our heads we are all Aishwarya
Rai Bachchan); we have a history of
collaborating on music and lyrics; and we
even recite dialogue from our favourite
films in everyday conversation.
Saadat Hasan Manto, one of Pakistans

greatest Urdu writers, was a young
man when he moved to pre-Partition
Bombay to write film scripts such as
Kisan Kanya (Indias first indigenous
colour film) and Apni Nagariya. To think
of the subcontinent as being as culturally
fractured as its borders is a mistake. Our
language is the same, our food made
from the same grains and spices, and
our fixations and longings often shared.
Think of how many star-crossed lovers
have danced in the rain and across snowy
mountaintops to Nusrat Fateh Ali Khans
haunting melodies. Its natural then that
Pakistan sees itself in Indian films.
But its not just your sentimental
neighbours who feel this bridging of
cultures through cinema; even the
academicians agree. Vamsee K Juluri,
photographS: Niharika bubNa; aNNie OweN/rOberT hardiNg

wOrld imagery/COrbis; geTTy; iNdiapiCTure.iN
Clockwise from top left: Dilip Kumar with Raj Kapoor; a poster for Om Shanti Om;
Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan; a minaret in Peshawar
the author of Bollywood Nation,

explained Pakistans overwhelmingly
positive perception of Bollywood as
partially due to it being dominated
by Punjabi and Sindhi culture, which
overrides any perceived national
differences. Plus, Juluri says, having
three Khans at the peak of the star
pantheon perhaps doesnt hurt
To a generation of Pakistanis too
young to have lived through our wars
and aggravations, Bollywood speaks to
the possibility of an open future and
communion between the two countries.
My brother Zulfikar, now in his last year
of studying art in college, pads around
our home in Karachi singing Mera Joota
Hai Japani to himself as he works. He
is the Bolly-expert in the family. There
was a period where Rang Barse was the
only music we were allowed to play at
home and Im quite sure he taught his
university flatmates all the words to Dum
Maro Dum. Bollywood removes the
other, he swiftly replied when I asked
him what he thought of India after a
lifetimes exposure to its syncretic cinema.
Though the world portrayed in Hindi
films is fantasy heavyBollywood
today has traded its populist, anti-elitist
messages for ones obsessed by brands,
materialism and powerthe scope for
positive influence is enormous. But it
could do better. The baddie neednt
always have a connection with Pakistan
or run a brothel in Karachi. Art, more
than politics or sport, liberates people
from prejudice. It is a safe space in
which to foster compassion for those we
are not used to empathising with. In a
hyper-connected world, where borders
are increasingly breaking down, where
hundreds of millions of people belong
to online communities, and where global
information travels at the click of a
button, nationalism feels wildly outdated.
We never turned against Indian
cinema, no matter how bad the situation
was between our countries, my friend
Sabeen, another Bollywood aficionado,
says. Bollywood has brought us face-toface with our commonalities and what
is possible when we collaborate. We
watch people just like ourselves, in cities
so similar to ours, so naturally we build
an affection for them. How can we hate
India after all this? Whatever the political
situation, in those three hours, the films
have our full attention.
View
Airport face-off
As Indian airports modernise to offer flyers more facilities, a battle between New Delhi
airports swanky T3 and Mumbais soon-to-open T2 is set to rage. Sonali Kumar reports
MUMBAIS T2
NEW DELHIS T3
340 lakh
54 lakh sq ft
PASSENGER CAPACITY
PER YEAR
TOTAL AREA
400 lakh
47.28 lakh sq ft
Nine-storeyed
integrated terminal
TERMINAL SIZE
Four-storeyed
integrated terminal
96
NUMBER OF
TRAVELATORS
41
Copper-andgold-plated
Surya sculpture,
contemporary wall murals and
massive metallic mudras
ARTWORK
More than 2km of Indian art.

With 6,000 pieces from the
8th-19th centuries, its one
of the worlds largest art
collections in a public space
168
CHECK-IN COUNTERS
188
78
BOARDING BRIDGES
52
49
EMIGRATION COUNTERS
60
46
IMMIGRATION
COUNTERS
72
14
BAGGAGE BELTS
10
35 outlets
2.15 lakh sq ft
F&B SPACE
DUTY-FREE SHOPPING
SPACE
53 outlets
2.26 lakh sq ft
4,300 cars
AVAILABLE PARKING
5,000 cars
Three years
TIME TAKEN TO BUILD
Seven years
GMR Group
WHO BUILT IT?
GVK Power &

Infrastructure Limited
BUSINESS CLASS
LOUNGES
Delhi Metro Airport

Express is the fastest way
to and from IGI airport
GETTING THERE
Private car or taxi through

the six-lane expressway
leading into the terminal
12,800 bags per hour
BAGGAGE PROCESSING
CAPACITY
10,000 bags per hour
Which do you prefer? Tweet #T2vsT3 to us @CN_Traveller_In
PHOTOGRAPHS: SHUTTERSTOCK
ALL FIGURES AS PER NATIONAL MEDIA REPORTS
s Indian travellers, we
have gazed enviously at
international airports
their stylish restaurants, plush
spas and transit hotels have
always caught our fancybut
that stops now. A new era of
comfort and choice is underway
in our cities, with 12,000 crore
spent on big plans. Slated to open
soon, Mumbais Chhatrapati
Shivaji International Airports
Terminal 2 will be the next big thing
after New Delhis Indira Gandhi
Internationals stylish Terminal 3,
which began operations in 2010.
And these bright stars are not
alone in Indias developing skyline.
According to the Airports Authority
of India (AAI), 35 airports around
the country (including those
in Amritsar, Goa, Chandigarh,
Indore, Chennai and Kolkata)
are expanding at a total cost of
6,400 crore. Accordingly, the AAI
notes that the countrys annual
passenger-handling capacity
has risen by 1.61 crore in the last
six years. In 2008, Hyderabads
Rajiv Gandhi International Airport
became the first in India to install a
four-level, in-line baggage-handling
system and, in 2013, Kolkatas
Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose
International Airport extended
the two parallel runways built
to complement its five-storeyed
integrated passenger terminal.
Chennais international and
domestic airports will soon
be connected by a 1km
flyover travelator, and certain
tourists are now eligible for visas
on arrival at Mumbai, New
Delhi, Kolkata, Chennai and
Bengaluru airports. Already, an
unofficial competition between
Mumbais T2 and New Delhis
T3 is underway. Here, we tell
you how they compare.
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William Dalrymple on the
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at the Golden
Temple, Amritsar
FIRST LOOKRITZ-CARLTON BANGALORE+VANA RETREAT+RAAS KANGRA
View
Bollywood
means business
Where the stars go, their fans follow. this has led many international tourism
agencies to woo Indian film production houses, says prasad ramamurthy
ou are a film producer and a

tourism board offers to pay back
a chunk of what itll cost you to
film in their country. All you have to
do in return is get your actors to dance
around their trees and rub shoulders
with a few journalists to promote
the film. What would you say? Hell,
yeah!or something to that effect.
So its understandable when you
see Katrina Kaif in Havana with
Salman Khan (Ek Tha Tiger),
indulging in a tomato fight with
Hrithik Roshan and Farhan Akhtar
in Spain (Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara),
and performing stunts with Aamir
Khan and Abhishek Bachchan in
Chicago (Dhoom 3).
Estimates suggest that nearly 30

different tourism boardsfrom the
places we often see in our movies such
as the US, the UK and Switzerland to
more exotic destinations such as South
Korea, Cyprus and Namibiaare all
trying to persuade Indian production
houses to shoot in their countries.
The simple reason: where film stars
go, their fans follow.
Hoping to draw Indian travellers
using cinema, foreign tourism boards
are offering Indian producers lucrative
inducements. The UK offers cash
rebates of up to 20 percent on money
spent in the country. The Czech
Republic offers a similar sum. Ireland
offers cashback even before shooting
has commenced. Ek Tha Tiger

received 900,000 ( 7.47 crore) in cash
benefits, which is equal to 40 percent
of its budget, reveals Beena Menon,
a representative for Tourism Ireland
in India. Following the films release,
we received an inflow of 21,000 Indian
visitors, adds Huzan Fraser, another
representative. Thats a seven percent
growth since 2011.
Spain Tourism believes its investment
in Zoya Akhtars money-spinner
Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara delivered
even better returnsvisa applications
went up by 60 percentalthough the
agencys Mumbai representative, Arturo
Ortiz, acknowledges that not all those
applying may have been influenced by
campaign, the
annual [tourism]
growth rate has been
a spectacular
16 percent.
ViPul Mittra, PrinciPal secretary
(tourisM), goVernMent of gujarat
Amitabh Bachchan at the Rann
of Kutch for the Khushboo
Gujarat Ki campaign
132 Cond nast traveller Dec-Jan 2013-14
photograph courtesy of Gujarat tourism and

tourism Corporation of Gujarat Limited
Post the bachchan
View
photograph courtesy of yASh rAj filmS
Above left: Salman Khan and Katrina Kaif in Ek Tha Tiger, shot in Cuba.
Above right: A still from Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara, shot in Spain
the film. When asked to put a figure

on what it cost to promote Spain
through the film, he reveals, I can tell
you it got us more visibility than our
own promotional activities would have,
on which at that time we were spending
about 300,000 ( 2.49 crore) a year.
This kind of largesse comes with some
conditions: the destination should be
shown in a good light; the board should
have access to the films images for its
own use; and the stars should appear
at the boards promotional activities.
But the support extended to
production houses doesnt end with the
handing out of cash. In fact, thats just
the engagement scene in a long courtship
drama, which includes familiarisation
trips (FAMs), where producers are taken
to various locations that the host nation
would like to showcase. And how often
do locations picked by a tourism board
feature in a film? Only if it works for
a script, insists Aashish Singh, the
head of production at Yash Raj Films
(YRF). Unlike the old days, you cant
just go off and shoot in a place that
doesnt make sense to the script. Tanuj
Garg, CEO of Balaji Telefilms, adds, On
a FAM, if we went to Malaysia, we may
have been taken to the Petronas Towers.
But the films script may not allow for
shooting it. When we shoot in a foreign
country, we have to hire a local line
producer to identify the sort of locations
we need for a particular movie.
In cases where tourism agencies have
been exceptionally generous, the films
actors are expected to repay in kind.
In 2006, when Krrish was released, its
lead actor Hrithik Roshan took scribes

on day-long tours of Singapore. Back
then, the Singapore Tourism Board
was reported to have subsidised up
to 50 percent of the production costs
incurred in the island state.
In a newer trend, even as a film
is being shot and much before the
pre-release publicity rounds have
been chalked, actors and filmmakers
have begun drawing attention to their
host destinations. For instance, as
Farah Khan began filming her 2014
release, Happy New Year, in Dubai
this September, its lead actors, Shah
Rukh Khan and Abhishek Bachchan,
joined the director in posting images of
the Emirati city (including their host,
Atlantis The Palm) to social media sites.
A single image that Shah Rukh posted of
himself at Skydive Dubai was re-tweeted
more than 1,000 times in a matter of
hours, generating instant visibility.
A representative for a European
tourism board who did not wish to be
named reveals that the search for a
good deal sometimes leads filmmakers
to ask multiple tourism agencies to bid
for a film. We dont compromise on the
creative front. But if a script is locationagnostic then why not leverage a good
deal? asks Garg. With the rupee
depreciating, we have to be careful of
how we spend our money, says Singh.
Indian tourism boards, too, have
woken up to the power of Bollywood.
The governments of Chandigarh, Punjab,
Haryana and Himachal Pradesh are now
offering production houses a singlewindow clearance system. Gujarat has
We got more than
300,000
worth of publicity by
supporting Zindagi Na
Milegi Dobara
Arturo ortiz, SpAin touriSm
set up a Film Cell to assist filmmakers.
We will be offering discounts at hotels
run by the Tourism Corporation of
Gujarat, says Vipul Mittra, principal
secretary (tourism). Gujarat was also
the first Indian state to rope in a major
Bollywood star, Amitabh Bachchan, for
its Khushboo Gujarat Ki campaign.
Mittra says, Post the Bachchan
campaign, the annual [tourism] growth
rate has been a spectacular 16 percent.
Other tourism-related agencies have
attempted to at least find their own
Bollywood mascots, if not actively pitch
for film business. Shah Rukh Khan, who
owns IPL team Kolkata Knight Riders,
has appeared in commercials to promote
West Bengal. Maharashtra, after a long
search, found its voice in music composer
Shankar Mahadevan. Tourism Victoria
has contracted Vidya Balan to represent
The Indian Film Festival of Melbourne.
And Etihad Airways has signed on
Katrina Kaif as its spokesperson.
The moral of the story, it seems, is
that nothing sells like Bollywoodat
least when the consumer is Indian.
And for a travel industry struggling
to deal with the impact of the global
economic crisis, roping in Bollywoods
star power seems a surefire method
to get the cash registers ringing.
For more,
Dec-Jan 2013-14 Cond nast traveller 133
View
DECODING THE
VIRGIN LOOK
y first encounter with

flight-attendant chic
happened not in real
life but on television. Having
grown up travelling on Air India
and Indian Airlines, my idea of
a flight attendant (we no longer
call them air-hostesses in these
politically correct times) was
a homely auntie type in a draped
sari, who would exhort you
sweetly to have some dessert,
no? As private airlines hit the
Indian skies, the flight attendants
got younger, slimmer and wore
skirts or trousers instead of
saris. But the glamour quotient
remained much the same.
Some private Indian carriers
were so particular that they
even specified the shade of eyeshadow that a flight attendant was
how chic and perfectly groomed

the first wave of flight attendants
were. They had to wear girdles
so that their waists were cinched
in to create that hourglass shape;
they had to be immaculately
made-up and coiffed without
a hair out of place; and they had
to weigh in before every flight,
with a clipboard Nazi standing
by to offload them if they were
so much as a pound above
their flying weight.
Not everyone was as
fascinated with this recreation
of the glamour years of flying (the
series was set in the first half of
the 60s) as I was, however; Pan
Am was cancelled after the first
season. But, as I discovered last
week, flight-attendant chic is both
alive and well, and kicking ass in a
The ABC series Pan Am showed how

glamorous air travel can be. Attendants
had to wear girdles to cinch in their
waists and weigh in before every flight
allowed to wear, no matter what
her complexion or personal taste.
It was the ABC series, Pan
Am, which first showed me how
glamorous air travel could be, and
Top, from left: An Indian
Airlines flight attendant in the
1990s; Pan Ams 1970s uniform;
a Virgin Atlantic flight attendant
today; the attendant being
groomed before her flight
small English town called Crawley,

where Virgin Atlantic is based.
Somewhere within the
cavernous expanse of the airlines
headquarters, there is a little
room, where every
new batch of flight
attendants is taught
grooming tricks to
ensure that they
step both on and
off a flight
looking pristine
and, of course,
glamorous.
As I sat
through
one such briefing, I have to
confess that all of this came as
something of a shock to me.
My modus operandi
when I get on a longhaul flight is to take
off my shoes, slap on
oodles of foot cream
and put on the thick
socks that all airlines
provide if you are lucky
enough to travel Business Class.
I drink a glass or two (okay,
maybe three) of Champagne
to put myself to sleep.
Then I slather lots of
moisturiser onto my
face, slip on an eye
mask, and pass out
for the next few hours.
But, of course, thats
not quite how it works for
Virgin flight attendants. Yes, they
can take off those dashing red
heels they wear to clickety-clack
their way across the terminal
and switch to comfortable, flat
slip-ons once in-flight service
commences. Sure,
they can take off
their tailored
jackets and
wear red
cardigans
instead. But other than

that, they need to look the
part: perfectly coiffed and
immaculately made-up,
with that distinctive Virgin
red lipstick in place. (You
understand, of course, I speak
only of the women; men just need
to put on their grey suits,
make sure their hair is
combed and their
beards trimmed, and
they are ready to go.)
So, how do
the ladies do it?
Simply put, with
a lot of effort. I was taken
through their routines by Helen
Kavanagh, grooming standards
manager (hair); Mim Allgood,
grooming standards
manager (beauty);
and Nichola V Sheriff,
uniform standards
and development
managerand
this is what I learnt.
Flight attendants must
make sure that they remove
their make-up every night
and moisturise, moisturise,
moisturise. Any stray eyebrow
hairs must be plucked the night
before so that any redness
(Virgin is keen on red, but
even they draw the line
somewhere) subsides
before the morning.
Short hair can be
worn down, so long r
PHOTOGRAPHS: WWW.UNIFORMFREAK.COM; DAVID REED/CORBIS
Seema Goswami heads to the UK to work out what it

takes to look as sexy as a Virgin Atlantic flight attendant
View
as it doesnt get into their eyes.
Long hair must be tied up; and
there are as many styles as there
are flight routes.
Then, its the usual primer,
foundation, concealer routine
for the face. Bronzer must be
applied in a figure of 3, beginning
at the temples, going in at the
cheekbones, and then out again
inner-line of your eyebrows.

Your call entirely, ladies.
Applying lipstick is a bit
trickierit has to be red. The
airline even has a lipstick called
Virgin Red, which is an exact
match of the red uniform colour
the flight attendants wear. But
if that doesnt go well with your
complexion, you can choose
The airline even has a lipstick

called Virgin Redan exact
match of the red uniform colour
the flight attendants wear
towards the jawline. The trick
is to first smile into the mirror
and then apply the blusher
across your cheekbones in
order to get a healthy-looking
flush instead of an artificiallooking line of colour.
Luckily, you have a little more
discretion on how you do your
eyes. You can stay minimal
with just a slash of eyeliner and
lashings of mascara or you
can go the full monty by piling
on eyeshadow, curling your
eyelashes and highlighting the
from a pinkish-red, a maroonred or an orangey-red.

Before you apply your lipstick,
however, you need a matching
lip liner to define the shape of
your lips. You can draw within
each lip line, but dont ever
venture beyond it. Once youve
created the perfect outline, fill it
in with the liner, after which you
can apply the lipstick.
But wait, thats not all. Once
youve applied the first coat,
take a single-ply tissue, press
it against your lips, and brush
extra mile in making them feel

special and, more importantly,
what not to do.
As Thomas explains, while
Virgin prides itself on being
a fun airline, there are some lines
that flight attendants must never
cross. They may well call each
other babes, but must never, ever
use such a familiar style with their
guests, he says. Customers must
always be treated with respect
and afforded a certain formality.
The next evening, I checked
in for my night flight back to
India. After enduring a pat-down
at Security that could well have
doubled as a full-body massage,
I was not in the best of moods.
Harried and irritable, I heaved
my hand luggage into the
overhead locker and sank
thankfully into my seat. Id barely
got my breath back when a tall,
bearded flight attendant wafted
towards me. And what would you
like to drink, darling? he asked.
Well, at least it wasnt babes.
We should all be grateful for
small mercies.
For a step-by-step make-up video
guide,
some loose powder over the lips

through the tissue. Then remove
the tissue and reapply the
lipstick. Now, youre good to go.
Yes, I knowbetter them
than me. Just listening to all
those instructions made me feel
completely exhausted; and very,
very glad that I hadnt signed up
for flight-attendant school after I
left college. (But if any of the moves
interest you, watch the how-to
video on www.cntraveller.in.)
When I visited, there was
a buzz of excitement about the
new uniforms for in-flight staff,
which were being designed by
the doyenne of British fashion,
Vivienne Westwood. But the big
reveal had yet to happen, so all
my hosts at Virgin could tell me
was that the new style was both
chic and comfortable.
But, of course, its not enough
just to look the part. You also have
to have the moves down pat.
And thats where service training
instructor David Thomas, who
takes all new cabin crew through
their paces, comes in. He teaches
raw recruits how best to serve
guests on board, how to go the
When in flight, hydrate right!

Moisturising is the most important beauty ritual to follow
on an aeroplane; here are the products that stars swear by
Die-hard Kiehls fan
Brad Pitt uses this
toner to refresh his
face when hes feeling
fatigued on his travels.
( 1,110 for 250ml)
Dr. Hauschkas
Rose Day Cream
This face cream
is a permanent
fixture in Jessica
Albas travel bag.
( 2,760 for 30ml)
Anthropologies Royal Apothic

Hand Creme Holland Park
NIVEA Crme
This drugstore
classic is good
enough for
Kate Winslet
to use in the air.
( 70 for 60ml)
Shea Terras Menthe

Orange Organic Shea
Lip Butter
When in flight,
Angelina Jolie
maintains her luscious
lips with this affordable
balm. ( 250 for 4.25g)
Victoria Beckham is obsessed

with this creams floral
fragrance, inspired by Londons
iconic park. ( 1,780 for 118ml)
Moroccanoils
Frizz Control
This hair serum is
loved by a number
of celebrities,
including Kim
Kardashian
and Beyonc.
( 2,080 for
100ml)
See Directory,
page 224
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY
PRICES OF PRODUCTS NOT AVAILABLE IN INDIA ARE CONVERTED
INTO RUPEES AND ARE ACCURATE AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRESS
Kiehls Facial Fuel

Energizing Tonic
ADDRESSES 2014
View
Where to
feast in Dubai
photographs: AlAn CoPson/JAI/CorbIs;

kAtArInA Premfors; ItP ImAges
From inventive restaurants to niche ptisseries, the emirates food scene is booming.
Alisha Patel tells you which culinary hotspots to check out on your next visit
I
Clockwise from top left: A chef at
Zuma; Dubais Madinat Jumeirah, with
the Burj Al Arab in the background;
shish tawook at Al Safadi
t was almost exactly a year ago when

famous Dubai blogger, FooDiva, got into
a spat with Italian Michelin-starred chef
Andrea Brambilla over what she considered
disappointing prices and service at Giannino,
the Italian restaurant at the Meydan Beach
Club. The hotheaded Brambilla told the
reviewer to wear a condom on her tongue to
contain her ignorance, thereby starting one
of the most talked-about online rows in the
Middle Easts gastronomic history.
Many would say that an honest review of

such a high-profile restaurantand the
response to itwas previously unheard of in
Dubai, and is just one of the many reasons
to believe that the citys culinary scene is
coming of age. The others are numerous
and varied, and include: the influx of celebrity
chefs such as Gary Rhodes and Pierre
Gagnaire; the arrival of international cuisine
across different price segments, from The
Rivington Grills affordable food to the r
View
Al MAhArA
Cuisine: Seafood
Why go: As if being located at the
luxurious Burj Al Arab hotel wasnt
novelty enough, the ultra-grand
underwater Al Mahara has an incredible
floor-to-ceiling aquarium in the centre
of it. Try eating while hungry sharks
watch you devour their kind, or simply
turn your attention to the page-long
caviar menu, in which dishes are often
sprinkled with gold leaf.
Dish to try: Line-caught whole
sea bass in sea-salt crust. (www.
jumeirah.com)
BiCE rEStAurAnt
Cuisine: italian
Why go: For a lovely meal in the
Jumeirah Beach Resort area, head
to BiCE at the Hilton Dubai, where
the food and service are always
terrific. An oil trolleywith a variety
of high-quality, year-specific olive oils
to drizzle over your dishshould tell
you just how seriously this restaurant
takes its food.
Dish to try: Home-made ricotta and
spinach tortelli with creamy whitetruffle sauce. (www.hilton.com)
StAY
Cuisine: French
Why go: Arguably the best restaurant
at the One&Only, The Palm, STAY is
fronted by chef Yannick Allno, who
earned his three Michelin stars while
working at Le Meurice in Paris and
Cheval Blanc in Courchevel. Yannicks
food arrives in well-sized portions
(barring the fish mains) but, be warned,
it can be pretty heavy on the wallet.
Dish to try: Black Angus beef fillet
cafe de Paris. (http://thepalm.
oneandonlyresorts.com)
noBu
Cuisine: Japanese fusion

Why go: If the quality that the name
Nobu Matsuhisa represents isnt
reason enough to visit this restaurant,
then we really dont know what is.
The celebrity chef has amassed two
hotels and 29 restaurants across five
continents and his Dubai outpost is
as good as any.
Dish to try: Black cod yuzu miso.
(http://www.noburestaurants.com)
PAi thAi
Cuisine: thai
Why go: Located at the Dar Al
Masyaf Hotel in Madinat Jumeirah,
Pai Thai is certainly one of Dubais
most exotic Asian restaurants.
Accessible by an abra (or water-taxi),
and with wonderful canal views, the
ambience adds to the top-notch food,
served in fairly large portions.
Dish to try: Green chicken curry.
(www.jumeirah.com)
Above, from left:

Home-made
ricotta and
spinach tortelli
at BiCE
Restaurant;
Nobu at Atlantis
The Palm
PiErChiC
Cuisine: Contemporary seafood

Why go: This romantic restaurant at
the Al Qasr Hotel is best visited
at night. It is situated at the end of
a wooden, candlelit pier that stretches
out into the ocean. The view on one
side is of the Jumeirah shoreline and,
on the other, of the Burj Al Arab and
the Arabian Gulf.
Dish to try: Casserole of lobster.
(www.jumeirah.com)
tABlE 9 BY niCk AnD SCott
Cuisine: international
Why go: When Gordon Ramsay left
Dubai, who would have thought that
his chefs at Verre would start an
establishment of their own? Scott
Price and Nick Alvis turned his
European fine-dining restaurant into
Table 9, introducing a chefs table,
a casual style and one of the most
innovative menus in the city.
Dish to try: Crispy hens egg.
(www.table9dubai.com)
inDEgo BY VinEEt
Cuisine: Contemporary indian

Why go: Chef Vineet Bhatias
restaurant at Dubais Grosvenor
House should be a definite stop for
anyone interested in feasting on desi
dishes with a modern French twist.
This is Dubais only real option for
an intimate yet elegant dinner of
non-traditional Indian food.
Dish to try: Home-smoked
fresh tandoori salmon. (www.
indegobyvineet.com)
photograph: katarina premfors
upmarket Zuma; the birth of finedining, home-grown brands such

as Table 9 by Nick and Scott; the
arrival of Zagats first-ever Dubai
city guide earlier this year; and two
Dubai restaurants making it onto San
Pellegrinos list of the worlds best
100 restaurants in 2012. Heres our
selection of the emirates finest.
View
photograph: MaTilde GaTToNi/arabiaNeye/Corbis
Mannaland Korean
restaurant
Cuisine: Korean
Why go: This little gem is a world
away from Dubais fine-dining scene.
It offers delicious, wholesome food,
and many of its patrons are Korean,
so you know that the food is as
authentic as it should be. Part floor
and part table seating, this is a mustvisit for those who value their food
more than the ambience.
dish to try: Marinated short rib
barbecue. (+97 1 4345 1300)
Pars IranIan KItChen
Cuisine: Persian
Why go: At the Satwa branch of this
simple, mostly open-air restaurant,
delicious shashliks (meat skewers)

are cooked right in front of you.
The portions are large and the
atmosphere relaxing. Its a great
place to sample local culture away
from the manufactured gloss of the
ski slopes and dancing fountains.
dish to try: The mixed-grill platter.
(www.parsuae.com)
ZuMa
Cuisine: Japanese
Why go: Chef Rainer Beckers izakayastyle restaurant is housed in the Dubai
International Financial Centre (DIFC).
It dishes up innovative small plates of
food in its well-lit downstairs space,
while the upstairs lounge bar
serves potent cocktails.
Above: Patrons
enjoying an
evening at Zuma
dish to try: Thinly sliced sea bass

with yuzu, truffle oil and salmon roe.
(www.zumarestaurant.com)
la PetIte MaIson
Cuisine: nioise/Mediterranean
Why go: This is the real home of
fine Nioise cooking in Dubai.
The dishes are meant for sharing,
making it a great place for a
quick and enjoyable business
lunch with colleagues. Its blend of
informal dining and haute cuisine
sets the perfect ambience for a bit
of schmoozing or an all-out power
lunch, especially given its location
close to the DIFC.
dish to try: Burrata et tomates.
(www.lpmdubai.ae)
View
Al SAfAdi
Cuisine: lebanese
Why go: With reasonably priced,
healthy food served in clean
surroundings, this restaurant is
a must-visit for hardcore falafel
fans. Stop by the airy Al Rigga Road
outlet, which also features a terrace
and sheesha bar.
dish to try: Other than the falafel,
the hummus with freshly baked pita
is a hit. (www.alsafadi.ae)
Al Reef lebAneSe
bAkeRy
Clockwise from
above: A dish of
rogel santafesino
at Asado; Asados
interiors; a menu
at The Rivington
Grill at Souk
Al Bahar
dish to try: Batata haraa definite

crowd pleaser, especially with
vegetarians. (www.wafigourmet.com)
Wox
lA SeRRe biStRo
& boulAngeRie
Cuisine: french & Mediterranean

Why go: Dubais latest culinary address
opened at the Vida Downtown hotel this
August. With a downstairs boulangerie
and a more formal bistro on top,
executive chef and owner Izu Ani (of La
Petite Maison fame) has brought his
signature Nioise food to yet another
stylish Dubai restaurant. Ani sources
only organic ingredients from farmers
and artisan suppliers. His boulangerie
has some of the best bread in the city.
dish to try: Scottish salmon, herbs
and confit lemon. (www.laserre.ae)
MAiSon bAgAtelle
Cuisine: french
Why go: Located at the front of
the Address Downtown Dubai,
this offshoot of New Yorks Bistro
Bagatelle opened its doors in June.
Maison Bagatelle doesnt aim to
recreate the raucous, boozy brunches
its sister restaurant is famous for
across the Atlantic. Instead, this is a
more low-key, Parisian-style crperie
and caf, with ex-La Petite Maison
chef Tim Newton at the helm.
dish to try: Truffle mac and cheese.
(+971 4420 3442)
CuCinA MiA
Cuisine: Asian
Why go: Unlike restaurants in
most other five-star hotels, the
Grand Hyatts WOX is reasonably
priced. It serves flavourful Asian
food, with a special focus on noodles
from Cambodia, China, Singapore
and Vietnam.
dish to try: Stir-fried noodles with
shrimp and bean sprouts. (www.
dubai.grand.hyatt.com)
ASAdo
Cuisine: italian
Why go: This is clearly the place
to go if youre looking for authentic
Italian food. The cosy establishment
uses superior ingredients to make
some of the best pizza metro
a giant, metre-long pizza with
different toppings in typical
Neapolitan stylein town.
dish to try: Pizza metro; mixed
seafood platter. (www.cucinamia.ae)
Cuisine: Argentinian
Why go: For an authentic La Parrillastyle meal, where premium meat cuts
are prepared on an open grill, look no
further than The Palace Downtown
Dubai. With exquisite views of the Burj
Khalifa and the dancing fountains,
Asados outdoor terrace is a great
place to dine when the weather is fine.
dish to try: Cabrito Asado (roasted
baby goat). (www.theaddress.com)
Cuisine: lebanese
Why go: If your feet are weary
from scouring the stores at the
Dubai or Wafi Malls, Wafi Gourmet
is the perfect place to rest them.
The citys best Arabian deli
counter overflows with cheeses, olives,
peppers, pickles, truffles and other
favourites such as hummus, tabouleh
and an assortment of Arabic sweets.
Cuisine: british
Why go: Though The Rivington Grill
also has a branch at Souk Madinat
Jumeirah, its Souk Al Bahar outpost
is a hot favourite with Dubais
expatriates, who gorge on the
mouthwatering fishcakes, burgers
and sticky-toffee puddings.
dish to try: Traditional fish and chips.
(www.rivingtongrill.ae)
WAfi gouRMet
the Rivington gRill
photographs: iTp images
Cuisine: lebanese
Why go: This tiny, 24-hour bakery
on Al Wasl Road is famous for its
manakeesh, a folded Arabic flat bread
with different toppings (cheese being
a favourite). Apart from the hordes
of locals who throng the place in the
mornings, Dubais partygoers
can also be seen satisfying their
munchies at 3am. Dont miss the
bakerys sweets sectionits baklava
is utterly decadent.
dish to try: Manakeesh and baklava.
(+97 14 4432 6763)
www.raileurope.hk
You will be amazed by train

travel in Europe today!
Running at up to 320km/h, European high
speed trains conveniently operate from city
centre to city centre, allowing travellers to
make the most of their trip
thus saving time
and money.
Paris Geneva: 3h 05m

Paris Brussels: 1h 22m
Paris Strasbourg: 2h 20m
Paris Amsterdam: 3h 18m
London Brussels: 2h 10m
London Paris: 2h 15m
Frankfurt Munich: 3h 10m
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Types of rail products available :

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are mandatory on high speed, scenic and night trains
Contact your Rail Europe travel expert Thomas Cook at sales@thomascook.in or call toll-free,
to prepare your trip and purchase your tickets.
TOLL FREE: 1-800-2099-100
THE RENOVATION SPECIAL

THE
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013
INDIa
ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST THE MOST BEAUTIFUL HOMES IN THE WORLD
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How DEsignEr SUSSanne roSHan

CHAngED ACtor SonaLI BendreS HomE
INDIa


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How to intEgrAtE Your
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Actress Sonali Bendres home gets a fresh, new look, courtesy her friend and celebrated
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From Peter D Ascolis love for fabrics to Diana Campbell and Thierry Betancourts
artistically endowed space AD checks into homes with strong personal taste.
The wait is finally over, as AD reveals its Makeover contest winner, along with an exclusive
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And with the festive season just around the corner, AD stylists present a power-packed
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Look out for

Vogue Indias
new iPad
experience,
which debuts
on the iTunes
App Store this
month. We no
longer just create
content to read;
we build stories
in HD so you
can play with
them. So when
Karan Johar
lists his favourite
Koffee With
Karan episodes,
you get to
watch them
in-app. Listen
to Katrina talk
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this months
cover while you
switch between
Facebook,
browsing and
emailing. And
because the iPad
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you can even
read Vogue in
the dark!
aCCeSS To
BaCK
ISSUeS
SIGNE VILSTRUP
aD
o
l
n
w
o
D
Wear to go
Your style guide H Bangkoks shopping secrets H Rough and tough watches
fall for the movies
TexT: jasReeN MayaL kHaNNa; suNayaNa kuMaRi PHOTOGRAPHS: sHuTTeRsTOCk
These destination-inspired film posters provide dramatic settings for Fall/Winter 2013s striking
collections. Illustrations by Himanshu Lakhwani and Radhika Maheshwari
look by
burberry
Paparazzi made it almost impossible to film with actors Keira Knightley and Colin Farrell across South London. But director
William Monahan was determined to shoot in the city that inspired him to become a filmmaker. The first time I ever thought
about doing a film seriously, I was 17 and I was in London.... And now, however many years later, Ive done it.
Wear to go
heavy rainfall forced the cast and crew of 3 IdIots to abandon their filming at ladakhs stunning
Pangong Lake. they waited an entire year to return to shoot the memorable last scene. when you want
something from the bottom of your heart, it will come true, aamir khan later said.
HHH
look by
PHOTOGRAPHS: briaN a. vikaNver, juliaN Calder/COrbiS
ToM FoRD
Wear to go
b y
G U C C I
One of the most memorable scenes in the citys film history is of Meg
Ryan faking it in front of Billy Crystal in When Harry

Met Sally. Filmed at Katzs Delicatessen on 205 East Houston Street, the table at which the scene was filmed
now has a plaque that reads, Where Harry met Sally. Hope you have what she had! Enjoy!
PHOTOGRAPH: philippe levy-sTab/CORbis
l o o k
Wear to go
The iconic shot of James Bond star Pierce Brosnan bungee-jumping in
GoldenEye was filmed at the 720ft-high Contra Dam in Ticino, Switzerland.
b y
C o r n e l i a n i
PHOTOGRAPH: 4corners
l o o k
Dec-Jan 2013-14 cond nast Traveller 153
Wear to go
looK by MIcHaEl KorS
H H H
Part of Kabir
Khans smash
Tha Tiger was set in
Havana where the unit
hit Ek
discovered a famous churro

stall at the Plaza
Vieja.
So obsessed was the crew with

it that, every morning, they
queuewhich ran an entire
block. And when he came back
with the crispy goodies,
everyone from Katrina
Kaif to Salman Khan

fought for a bite.
154 cond nast Traveller Dec-Jan 2013-14
PHOTOGRAPH: 4corners
sent a spot boy to stand in the
PHOTOGRAPH: bruno ehrs/corbis
Wear to go
Sella bag by TodS
Director
Ben Affleck made a trip to Istanbul for his film Argo and
spent US$2,500 ( 1.54 lakh) on a Turkish rug in the Grand Bazaar.
He returned home only to find that his wife, actor Jennifer Garner, had already purchased a rug for the house.
He now uses the Turkish antique as a bathroom floor mat.
Wear to go
look by
H H louis Vuitton H H
HHH
PHOTOGRAPH: frederic soltan/corbis
The shorT film Quais de

seine direcTed by
briTish-indian direcTor,
Gurinder Chadha,
shows a french man
inTeresTed in a muslim girl,
who explains The nuances
of her religion To him. an
ongoing debaTe aT The Time
was abouT hijabs being
banned from french
schools, which chadha
found perTinenT To The
subjecT aT hand.
156 cond nast traveller Dec-Jan 2013-14
PHOTOGRAPH: bruno ehrs/corbis
Wear to go
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it
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apanes
puts yo
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BANGKOKS
SHOPPING
SECRETS
National Film Award-winning
Bollywood costume designer
and stylist Niharika Bhasin
Khan reveals the Thai capitals
off-the-beaten-track gems
Terminal 21
One of Bangkoks newest malls,
this is as famous for its citythemed floors (Paris, Rome,
Istanbul et al) as for its wellequipped bathrooms complete
with heated seats and bidets. I love
to shop at Terminal 21 because
all my favourite local stores from
Chatuchak Weekend Market have
migrated here; they still retain
their night-market appearance
while boasting modern amenities
such as air-conditioning and wi-fi.
One of these is Riotino (http://
riotinogroup.com), where I go to
buy grungy urbanwear such as
ripped sweaters, Gothic jackets,
sexy leggings and bondage
dresses. (www.terminal21.co.th)
Union Mall
This place has cheap and trendy
menswear for college students
and young working adults.

I shopped here extensively for
the film Rock On!! and found
a great variety of rock-inspired
clothing at unbeatable prices.
But make sure you bring a
calculator when you visit; this mall
is still relatively unknown to the
touristy crowd, so some of the
shop owners dont speak English.
(+66 2939 3485)
Siam Center
In January 2012, the Siam
Center was relaunched with
a special focus on upcoming local
designers and Thai couturiers.
The third floor, called Fashion
Visionary, is where leading Thai
brands house their flagships.
Some of my favourite brands
at Fashion Visionary are:
AB-Normal: An established name
in the Thai fashion industry, I go
here to shop for smart separates,
which can be used as versatile

wardrobe pieces. The brands
philosophy is simply chic,
which is perfectly embodied in
its clothes, and has won it a huge
fan following in Bangkok. The
main palette comprises earthy
tones such as grey, light brown
and beige, with brighter accents
of blue, yellow, orange and pink.
(http://ab-normal1999.com)
Wonder Anatomie: This stores
sensibility is inspired by the
human body, so the laser-cut,
hand-assembled outfits mimic
the human ribcage and pelvic
bones, and chains of beads
run down the fabrics similar
to sleek, metallic spines.
I also really love the brands
Botanical Creatures collection
because it channels my bug
fixation; I have bought a lot of
insect-motif accessories from
here. (http://wonderanatomie.
blogspot.in)
The Selected: This 3,200sq ft
lifestyle store offers an invigorating
mix of technology, art, fashion and
design. Brands range from local
product designer Pana Objects to
British jewellery brand, Love Lust
London. Also worth a mention
are TIMOs swimming trunks,
Containers sleek leather bags
and the refreshing shower gels
from local beauty brand, Gla.
(+66 2658 1000)
Greyhound: Advertising executive
Bhanu Inkawats store was r
Clockwise from top left:
Pak Khlong Talat wholesale and
flower market; stylist Niharika
Bhasin Khan; hammered bowls
at designer Alexander Lamonts
store; a model in a fashion
show at the Siam Center mall;
shoppers in Siam Center
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; GETTY
MARVELLOUS MALLS
Wear to go
conceptualised for art and media

professionals with a discerning
taste in fashion. Today, its one of
Thailands biggest homegrown
labels and is sold in stores all over
the world. The Greyhound Caf
attached to this store has the best
soft-shell crab salad I have ever
eaten. (www.greyhound.co.th)
Villains SF: Im a shoe fanatic
and have found many treasures
at this funky store, from sparkly,
coloured heels to ikat-print
loafers, which often become a
talking point at parties I attend.
(www.villainssf.com)
Baking Soda: This stores USP is
its smart use of embellishments
such as sequins, prints and sheer
fabrics on casual t-shirts and
jeans, converting them into sexy,
glamorous eveningwear.
I love its superior workmanship
and girlie palette, which also finds
its way into the embroidered tote
bags. (+66 2251 5968)
STELLAR STORES
Its Happened to be a Closet

This is a great shop that sells
vintage clothes and jewellery
I find a new delight every time
I step foot in it. From antique
coats and cufflinks to racing
boots, it has beautiful accessories
crafts his pieces using Asian

techniques. I especially love his
Shagreen Chop Boxes, which
I use to store my jewellery.
(www.alexanderlamont.com)
The Support Arts & Crafts
International Center of
Thailand (SACICT)
This fantastic organisation helps
Thai farmers and artisans gain
additional income by producing
exquisite handicrafts. I shop here
for gift items such as ceramic and
earthenware dishes, textiles and
woven baskets. (www.sacict.net)
Issue
I love this boutique for its
Bangkok-chic-meets-Tibetankitsch vibe. The designer, Roj
Singhakul, who is inspired by
the teachings of the Dalai Lama,
incorporates Hindu and Buddhist
idols, hieroglyphs and religious
symbols into his creations.
Issue sells casual blouses
and t-shirts for those with
I once bought a pair of 6 heels from

Theatre Bangkok, which I wore to an
award ceremony. I had to be escorted
to the stage as I couldnt walk in them
in every nook and cranny. The
stores Emporium mall outpost
has a caf serving European
food, a foot salon and a private
dining space called The Mafia
Room, which has earned a
cult-like status among locals.
(http://itshappenedtobeacloset.
wordpress.com)
Alexander Lamont
When Im in the mood to
splurge, I visit this Bangkokbased British designers store,
which stocks home accessories,
lights and furniture made with
materials such as bronze, gold
leaf and shagreen. Lamont, a
2010 UNESCO award recipient,
an idiosyncratic sense of style.

(www.issue.co.th)
Flynow Fashion
Chamnan Pakdeesuk, creative
and fashion director at Harpers
Bazaar Thailand, is the man
behind this hit Asian brand, whose
flagship is in Siam Paragon. I love
the rocker-chic sensibility of his
products. (+66 2610 9410)
Theatre Bangkok
This store has a collection of
dramatic pieces, which often have
Oriental touches. The designer,
Sirichai Daharanont, is an icon of
the Thai fashion industry. He has
dressed numerous celebrities and
his work was on show at Bangkok
Fashion Week. I once bought

a pair of very unusual 6" heels
here, which I wore to the Balaji
Global Indian Film & TV Awards in
Mumbai. When I won my award,
I had to be escorted to the stage
because I couldnt walk in them!
(www.theatrebangkok.com)
MUST-VISIT MARKET
Pak Khlong Talat

Bangkoks biggest wholesale
and flower market sells jasmine,
chrysanthemums, gerbera,
orchids and roses at wholesale
prices. I find myself returning to
this spot not only to buy flowers
but also for inspirationthe beads
that they use as decorations can
be used in so many ways. (1 Chak
Phet Road, Wang Burapha Phirom,
Phra Nakhon)
SECRET OUTLET
Jim Thompson
Thompsons stores are renowned
for their Thai-inspired textiles
and silks, especially the gorgeous
pillowcases. However, not many
people know that he also has
a five-floor factory outlet on
Sukhumvit Soi 93, which sells
past collections at bargain
prices. (www.jimthompson.com)
SHOP AROUND
THE CLOCK
The Patpong Night Market

When Im sourcing clothes for
a film, I spend all day shopping
and return to the hotel in the
evening for dinner. Often, Im so
pressed for time that once Ive
eaten, I go out again and continue
sourcing. This streetside market
is excellent for a spot of late-night
shopping as its stalls remain open
into the wee hours.
TIME FOR TEA
Mr. Jones Orphanage

To take a break from shopping,
visit this milk bar that serves
age-old recipes by owner Ashley
Suttons grandmother. Try a Time
to go to School (dark chocolate,
mocha and peppermint
milkshake) or a Chunky Monkey,
(a blend of coffee, chocolatechips and banana). (http://
mrjonesbangkok.com)
As told to Jasreen
Mayal Khanna
PHOTOGRAPH: AUDI FASHION FESTIVAL SINGAPORE
Left: Bhanu Inkawat

of Greyhound. Below:
Clothes from Baking
Soda. Below right:
A spiked stiletto
from Villains SF
Wear to go
3
STARRY JEWELS
1 On Sridevi: Earrings
in 18ct gold with uncut
diamonds and South Sea
pearls, Anmol
2 On Deepika Padukone:
Sunburst necklace set
in 18ct white gold,
Nirav Modi
3 On Monica Bellucci: Ring
in platinum, rubies and
diamonds, Cartier
4 On Marion Cotillard:
Earrings set with diamonds,
Chopard
5 On Genelia Deshmukh:
Asymmetric bead
necklace, Azva by
World Gold Council
6 On Norah Jones: Encordia
earrings, Forevermark
All prices on request.
See Directory, page 224
COMPILED BY JASREEN MAYAL KHANNA
Take inspiration from these stylish celebs,

who showcase the party seasons finest pieces
Wear to go
TIME TO
ROUGH IT
Carry these cool and sturdy watches on your

next adventure-filled holiday
4
2
1
1 Capeland Worldtimer, Baume & Mercier, 11,00,000 2 Luminor 1950 Regatta 3 Days Chrono Flyback, Officine Panerai, price
on request 3 Grande Seconde SW Steel, Jaquet Droz, 11,23,000 4 Tradition 7047 Tourbillon Fusee Rose Gold, Breguet, price
on request 5 Speedmaster Racing, OMEGA, 2,44,500 6 HydroConquest, Longines, 1,29,000
See Directory, page 224
COMPILED BY JASREEN MAYAL KHANNA PHOTOGRAPHS: SHUTTERSTOCK
LUXURY STYLE SPORT CARS GADGETS GIRLS

INDIAN EDITION
TECH SPECIAL
THE
WHAT A MANS GOT TO DO

NOVEMBER 2013 `150
WHAT THE HELL

IS CHESSBOXING?
Inside Indias Intellectual

Fight Club
MASTER
THE MODERN
SHERWANI
50
COOLEST
GADGETS
ON THE
PLANET
HOW TO
ARGUE
LIKE A MAN
HRITHIK
IS READY FOR
SOME ACTION
THE ULTIMATE
GUIDE TO ROCKING
A MOUSTACHE
HRITHIK ROSHAN
PHOTOGRAPHED BY DABBOO RATNANI
Wear to go
COMPILED BY JASREEN MAYAL KHANNA PHOTOGRAPHS: SHUTTERSTOCK
4
6
1 Eager, Calvin Klein, 25,400 2 Superfast Power Control, Chopard 3 Piaget Polo, Piaget 4 Admirals Cup Challenger 44 Chrono Rubber,
Corum, 6,12,625 5 Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II, Rolex 6 Calibre de Cartier chronograph, Cartier
All prices on request, unless stated otherwise. See Directory, page 224
December
From a fancy-dress party in Cape town to an electronic music festival
Where Miami Beach

What Admire the best of
modern art at the winter edition
of Art Basel Miami Beach.
When 5-8 December
hoW Learn about Miami
Beachs unique art deco
heritage with the Miami Design
Preservation Leagues walking
tour. (www.mdpl.org)
14
DEC
Where Cape town

What Throw yourself into
the fancy-dress flamboyance
of Mother City Queer Project
(MCQP), Cape Towns riotous
celebration of its gay community.
When 14 December
hoW Book early-bird and VIP
tickets from the official website.
(www.mcqp.co.za)
An installation at Art Basel

Miami Beach. Opposite:
Hong Kong by night
27
DEC
Where Goa
What Let the bass kick in at
Sunburn, Goas electronic music
festival, which boasts local and
global talent in a seaside setting.
When 27-29 December
hoW Keep an eye out for tickets
to after-parties in hip nightclubs
such as Butter and SinQ Beach
Club. (www.sunburn.in)
28
DEC
Where orvieto, Italy

What Soak up the culture of this
Tuscan cliffside town and enjoy
some soul-stirring music at its
Umbria Winter Jazz Festival.
When 28 December-1 January
hoW Discover the towns
hidden passageways with the
Orvieto Underground tour.
(www.orvietounderground.it)
photograph: Orjan F Ellingvag/

DagEns naringsliv/COrbis
DEC
January
TexT: AmriThA JohN phoToGraph: 4CorNers
in Goa, our pick of what in the world is happening this season
JAN
Where Dubai
What Treat yourself to some
great deals in the worlds most
luxurious malls at the Dubai
Shopping Festival (DSF).
When 2 January-2 February
hoW Emirates Dubai Shopping
Festival package includes the
airfare, a four-night stay, transfers
and an Arabian Adventures welcome
pack. (www.emirates.com)
16
JAN
Where Park City, Utah

What Go off the beaten track
at Sundance Film Festival,
which showcases the worlds
best independent movies.
When 16-26 January
hoW Skip the queues to
attend the after-parties with
an advance ticket package
from the official website.
(www.sundance.org)
17
JAN
31
JAN
Where Jaipur
What Mingle with the literati
at the DSC Jaipur Literature
Festival (JLF), which hosts
lectures and readings by writers
from around the world.
When 17-21 January
hoW Spend an evening with
the festival regulars in the bar
of Hotel Narain Niwas Palace.
(http://hotelnarainniwas.com)
Where hong Kong

What Bring in the Chinese New
Year with a bang, when Hong
Kongs harbour becomes an
all-night street party.
When 31 January
hoW After the bash, hop onto
a cable-car and seek a New Year
blessing from the Big Buddha
at Po Lin Monastery on Lantau
Island. (www.plm.org.hk)
Scan with your phone to go behind

the scenes of our cover with Sonam
170
on sonam kapoor: dress, shift by nimish

shah. earrings: sonams own. styling:
rhea kapoor. Hair & make-up: namrata soni
Sonam Kapoor at The Pantry.

Opposite: Crispy duck salad with
pomelo, pine nuts and shallots at
Hakkasan Mumbai
POOR
A
K
M
A
N
O
S
Mu
A
se
Wo
lf
rd
m ba
-co
sb
nfe
yp
sse
ras
PRE
SE
a
s
i ma
mu
ax i
NT
a
l
y.
t
i
C
k
d food
ar
M
p
o
t
ies guide
om
ad r
by t
a
mamur
t h y. P h o t o g r a p h
er
171
onam Kapoor has just finished her daily yoga session; shes now
making plans to watch a performance at Lower Parels Canvas
Laugh Factory comedy club and go out for dinner afterwards.
Ask her what she would like to eat or what her favourite
restaurants are and youve really let the cat out of the bag. I am
an absolute foodie, she squeals. I love eating junk food, and the
stuff you get in Bombay is simply delicious! You must have vada pav when
youre here. I dont want to hear this, her personal trainer mutters, before
dashing out of the room. Kapoor laughs, then lapses into a monologue: I love
street food, fine dining and everything in between. Its great that restaurants
such as Le Cirque are coming to Bombay, but this city already has some
amazing places such as Ellipsis, Two One Two and Hakkasan. And Bombay
has the best seafood in the countryfish, lobster and crab. I love beef, but Im
obsessed with crab. Kapoor prides herself on knowing the sort of restaurants
that only locals frequent. Although Im a huge fan of Anthony Bourdain, I was
disappointed with his Bombay episode. I would have been a better guide.
After listening to her list of Mumbai recommendations, I cant help but agree.
Sonam Kapoors
scene-by-scene
guide to eating
out in Mumbai
The street
food scene
THE EASY EATING
SCENE
THE CHIC FOOD
SCENE
THE FINE-DINING
SCENE
THE DECADENT
DESSERT SCENE
The street food
scene
I used to work as an art assistant for
Sanjay Leela Bhansali, says Kapoor.
I went to all kinds of places across the
city to source for his filmsfrom the
Oshiwara old furniture market, and the
lane in Crawford Market where they sell
lace, to Zaveri Bazaar where you get
amazing ornaments. As a result, Ive
come to know this city and its culinary
treats really well. I used to love going to
Mohammed Ali Road, especially during
Ramzan, and hogging on everything
from kebabs to kaleeja. Unfortunately,
the price of stardom has meant that
Kapoor cant venture into those
parts anymore. I hate it, she says,
172
Top: Bademiyas Colaba outlet. Above,

from left: Tandoori crab at Gajalee;
dahi batata puri at Swati Snacks.
Left: Swati Snacks. Opposite: Food
stalls at Mohammed Ali Road
exasperatedly. But if youre in Bombay,

you have to try the street food. Its
essential to the city experience. Kapoor
follows this up by rattling off the places
to visit and the dishes to try there.
Elco Pani Puri Centre

Mumbais chaat culture reflects the
diversity of the citys residents. Bhel
puri came from the Gujaratis, pani puri
from Bihar and dahi papri chaat from
Uttar Pradesh. Mumbai has given all of
173
started as a tiny kebab stall but has now

expanded to occupy the abandoned
building across the street (and even has
a brand-new outlet in nearby Horniman
Circle). Ignore the crowds, the noise,
the smoke from the open barbecue
grills and the lack of air-conditioning,
and pick from the signature mutton
seekh kebabs, bhuna gosht and baida
rotis. This is the perfect spot to
come for food when youve been out
partying, says Kapoor. (022 2202 1447)
these a twist and made them its own.

Nowadays, everyone comes to Elco, on
Hill Road in Bandra, to try these (and
other) quintessential Mumbai chaat
dishes. Its a great place to get your
taste buds tingling and to peoplewatch. The other place to explore is
Juhu beach, which has a string of stalls
to choose from. (022 2643 7206)
Amar Juice Centre

Nothing beats the pav bhaji at this
place, Kapoor enthuses. Suburban
partygoers gather at this roadside stall
in Vile Parle to satisfy their midnight
hunger pangs. Amar serves five types
of pav bhaji as well as a range of
sandwiches, dosas, fresh juices and
milkshakes. (022 2624 7917)
Noor Mohammadi
As Indians, we are used to eating the
brain, liver, kidneys, legs, hoof and
intestines. And, in the Mohammed Ali
Road area, youll find restaurants that
serve dishes made from all these,
reveals Kapoor. Noor Mohammadi,
right on the main thoroughfare, is one
of the best. Try their nalli nihari and
tangdi kebab, washed down with a
scoop of dal ghee. This is not a meal for
the weak-hearted. (022 2345 6008)
Mani Dosa
Kapoor lists this tiny stall as an
essential Mumbai experience.
Standing on the street or sitting in their
cars, residents of Khar tear into Manis
home-style (fluffy or crispwhichever
youd prefer) dosas and slurp down
bowls of spicy sambar and coconut
chutney. (16th Road, Khar West)
THE EASY EATING

SCENE
Haji Ali Juice Centre
You cant go to a fine-dining place

every day. Sometimes you want to
go to a more simple spot and chill,
says Kapoor. For me the food is as
important as the ambience. The
following places make her soul food cut.
On the shore overlooking the Haji

Ali dargah, this South Mumbai
landmark is where locals go for
the freshest of juices, made with
seasonal fruit. However, Kapoor
particularly recommends the stalls
sliced fruit served with fresh cream,
and its faloodas. They are simply
outstanding. (022 2351 0957)
Gajalee
Brijwasi Sweets
This traditional halwais shop, right
beside the ancient Babulnath Temple
and just off Marine Drive, makes and
sells lactose sweetmeats. Kapoor picks
this place for the best masala milk
youll taste in your life. Every time Im
in this part of the city, I try and pick up
a glass of it, she says. (022 2367 3221)
Bachelorrs
With a caricature of a chef peeping
over its name on the logo, this snackhouse on Girgaum Chowpatty takes
its softies more seriously than its food.
Bachelorrs serves several unique ice
creams and frozen yoghurts in flavours
such as ginger, orange blossom and
kiwi. (022 2368 2211)
Bademiya
This establishment has existed on
a side street, in the shadow of the
Taj Mahal Palace hotel since 1946. It
000
174
the table is
probably the only
restaurant in
Mumbai that
sources seasonal
produce from its
own farm in
Alibaug; its beef
burger is the best
in the city
Its tag line may insist its more than

just a seafood restaurant, but fans
such as Kapoor will emphatically
disagree. Of the five branches that
extend across the length of the city, she
picks the one in Juhu. Its one of my
favourite restaurants; I go there at least
once every 10 days, she says. Order
a cold beer along with the tandoori
crab (which you can pick from a live
selection), the fried bombil [Bombay
duck] with green, spicy chutney, the
butter-garlic lobster and the clams in
a green curry with neer dosa. Together,
these dishes make for an amazing meal.
(www.gajalee.com; 022 2610 7040)
Swati Snacks
Bombay has some great Gujarati
restaurants. Swati may be a bit touristy
but its my go-to place when I want to
From top: Prosciutto e Rucola
pizza at Two One Two Bar and Grill;
a server at The Table. Opposite:
Kapoor outside The Pantry
175
on sonam kapoor: dress, shift by nimish shah. Bag and jacket; Both fendi. Belt, zara. shoes, tods.
earrings: sonams own. styling: rhea kapoor. hair & make-up: namrata soni
I love the breakfast at cafe zoe.the

scrambled egg on toast with truffle is
delicious. (and its atmosphere is beautiful)
Diners at Cafe Zoe. Opposite:

Seared rawas at Cafe Zoe
176
177
eat fun food, says Kapoor. The chaat,

the pizza they serve Everything is
vegetarian and Gujju-fied and I love it.
Those dishes apart, the signature treats
at this Tardeo establishment include the
baked masala khichdi, fada ni khichdi
served with curd and the suva panki.
If you plan to visit, note that they dont
take reservations. (http://swatisnacks.
com; 022 6580 8405)
Arya Bhavan
When Dhanush came to Bombay
and was really craving South Indian
cooking, I took him here; he said it was
the closest he had eaten in the city to
what he has back home. Kapoor cites
her Raanjhanaa co-stars endorsement
to put this Matunga Tamil joint on the
list. Its a no-frills place, with the focus
on delivering high-quality South Indian
fast fooddosas, idlis, uttapams and
more. Besides Kapoor and Dhanush,
the owners count Shah Rukh Khan,
Deepika Padukone, Sridevi and Kajol
among their fans. (022 2415 9449)
the yoga houses

owners are trained
yoga
practitioners
and the dishes they

serve combine
ancient dietary
wisdom with
macrobiotic recipes
The Bombay Presidency

Radio Club
Bombays old clubs and gymkhanas
are such an integral part of its cultural
history. Radio Club in Colaba is one of
them, declares Kapoor. You have to
know a member to enter but once
youre in, the old-school service and
atmosphere will charm you. Radio Club
is famous for its Indian-Chinese; try
its gin chicken and potato KPK. (www.
radioclub.in; 022 2284 5025)
THE CHIC FOOD SCENE

Increasingly, Mumbai has a number
of stand-alones that aim to deliver
an international food experience at
affordable prices. Kapoor says, Due
to the number of expats in the city and
the number of people who have lived
abroad and returned, we now have all
these cool, secret places that serve
amazing food. Here are her picks:
The Yoga House

Kapoor picks this yoga studio and caf,
housed in an old East Indian home
in Bandras Chimbai Village, for its
amazingly healthy food. The owners
are trained yoga practitioners and the
dishes they serve combine ancient
dietary wisdom with macrobiotic
recipes. So expect detoxifying health
foods such as quinoa burgers, oat and
jaggery porridge cooked in buffalo milk
178
Top: Beetroot and carrot juice at Haji

Ali Juice Centre. Above, from left:
Brown rice and quinoa salad at The
Yoga House; pav bhaji at a stall on
Juhu Beach. Left: The Yoga House.
Opposite: A hawker on Juhu Beach
and kada chai (black pepper, clove,

ginger, lemon grass and honey).
(www.yogahouse.in; 022 6554 5001)
Cafe Zoe
I love their breakfast and the
atmosphere is beautiful, Kapoor says
of this place. Housed in a renovated
warehouse in Lower Parel, this caf,
brasserie and bar has exposed brick
walls, cast-iron pillars and frosted-glass
windows. The menu serves comfort
179
pizza with old balsamic vinegar, Parmesan

cheese and rocket leaves, and the piccante,
a spicy pepperoni salami pizza.
(022 2490 1994)
food with a gourmet twist, including

pork sliders and tenderloin burgers.
I particularly like their scrambled
egg on toast with truffle, remarks
Kapoor. Its delicious. (www.cafe
zoe.in; 022 2490 2065)
Hakkasan Mumbai
The Mumbai outpost of this international
Asian food stalwart serves many of the
dishes that have made it a hit elsewhere
in the world, along with an extensive list
of vegetarian options. They have a really
good wine menu, says Kapoor. Since Im
very partial to wine, I love dining here. Her
favourite dishes include the crispy-duck
salad with pomelo, pine nuts and shallots,
fried quail and the soft-shell crab flavoured
with almonds, chilli and curry leaves.
(http://hakkasan.com; 022 2644 4444)
The Pantry
With its whitewashed walls lined with
bric-a-brac, vintage metal chairs and lace
curtains, this South Mumbai restaurant
in the historic Kala Ghoda area spells
Parisian chic. While sipping her second cup
of mushroom soup, Kapoor exclaims, I
picked this place to shoot because it is nice
and intimate. The quiche is good and the
breakfast is excellent. (022 2270 0082)
THE FINE-DINING SCENE
Pali Bhavan
For those looking for an Indian fine-dining
restaurant, Kapoor picks this Bandra
establishment. Its decorated in dark tones,
muted lighting, plenty of old, fading images,
mounted deer heads, porcelain plates and
other quirky decorations sourced from local
markets such as Chor Bazaar. The food is
great and I love the way the place is done up,
she says. (022 2651 9400)
If you want to make eating out a memorable

event, these are Kapoors restaurant
recommendations. (For its old-world
charm and service, her perfect place to
pop the question is The Zodiac Grill at
the Taj Mahal Palace.)
Ellipsis
Kapoor picks this place, which serves
American and European cuisine, for
preparing some of the best food shes
had in recent times. The chef there
made me pork burgers that make me
hungry every time I think of them, she
exclaims. (022 6621 3333)
THE DECADENT
DESSERT SCENE
For sweet endings to your Mumbai
culinary adventure, Kapoor suggests
you visit the following.
The Table
This is probably the only restaurant
in Mumbai that sources seasonal
vegetables from its own farm in Alibaug.
It also works with a local urban-farming
initiative to source organic produce for
its kitchen. Kapoor says of the food: I love
beef and you normally dont get good beef
burgers in Bombay. But the big, fat burger
at The Table is simply outstanding. Its by
far the best in the city. (www.thetable.in;
022 2282 5001)
Cheval
The name is French for horse (a nod to
its location, Kala Ghoda) and the cuisine
is European, with dishes such as wood-fired
pizzas, souffls and tiramisu. Explaining
why this is on her hotlist, Kapoor says, The
place has a great vibe and everybody goes
there for a good time. (022 4039 6638)
Two One Two Bar and Grill

This hugely popular Italian restaurant in
Worli serves classics such as spaghetti
with prawns as well as innovative pizzas
such as one made with mozzarella,
fontina, Gorgonzola and taleggio. Kapoor
recommends the tenderloin carpaccio
000
180
Debailleul
The chef at
ellipsis
made me pork
burgers
that make me
hungry every
time i think
of them
I love the fact that we now have such

places, where all the products are made
using Belgian chocolate, gushes Kapoor.
The signature treats at this French
ptisserie include citron, shortbread with
lemon cream, voltaire, a dark chocolate
mousse with vanilla creme brle,
and chocolate, raspberry and lemon
macaroons. (http://debailleul.info)
Le15 Ptisserie
The brainchild of Le Cordon Bleu-trained
ptissier, Pooja Dhingra, this brand has
outlets in Lower Parel and Bandra. It sells
cakes, macaroons and tarts, which can
also be delivered to your doorstep. The
cupcakes from here make my day every
time, exclaims Kapoor. (www.le15.co.in;
022 6513 3211)
For a behind-the-scenes video of

Sonam Kapoor,
From top: Pork belly bun at Ellipsis;
chef Kelvin Cheung of Ellipsis.
Opposite: Hakkasan Mumbai
181
The best Island

HIDEAWAYS
on AUSTRALIAS
Great
Barrier
Reef
One of the natural wonders of the world,

this 2,600km-long eco-system is home to beautiful
coral gardens and myriad species of marine life.
But where should you stay? Mark Chipperfield
finds an island to suit everyone.
Photographs by Jason Loucas
182
The famous Whitehaven

Beach on Whitsunday
Island, a popular day-trip
destination from many
Barrier Reef resorts
183
ver since Captain James Cook ran aground here in

1770, the world has been fascinated by the Great
Barrier Reef, an astonishing network of coral cays,
fringing reefs and tropical islands stretching all
the way from North Queensland to Papua New
Guinea. The Great Barrier Reef, of course, is not
one continuous reef, but in fact, 2,900 separate reefs covering
a huge swathe of the Coral Sea. Deciding where to go is very
much a question of time, money and stamina, but unless you are
happy with a day trip to the reef from Cairns, Townsville or Port
Douglas, an island resort is the obvious choice. Staying at any
one of them will guarantee proximity to the best snorkelling and
dive sites, but the resorts are as diverse as the reef itself, ranging
from large, family-focused places such as Daydream Island
Resort and Spa to exclusive luxury hideaways aimed at couples,
such as Lizard Island resort and ritzy qualia on Hamilton
Island. Some of the islands, such as the popular Whitsunday
group, are easily accessible by plane from Sydney or Melbourne,
and provide a wide range of reef-based activities, from scubadiving expeditions to private yacht charters; Hamilton Island
has an international-standard, 18-hole golf course designed by
Australian golfer, Peter Thomson. Other resorts are remote and
difficult to reach but provide a front-row seat for the stunning
marine life found on the reef. Guests staying on Wilson Island,
for example, have a pristine reef teeming with fish, turtles and
coral just a few feet from their eco-friendly tents. Captain Cook
found navigating his way through the Great Barrier Reef so
difficult he christened it the insane labyrinth. Hopefully, this
article will make your task a little easier.
184
HAMILTON ISLAND
Sophisticated glamour on the high seas

Once seen as little more than the location for the main
Whitsunday Islands airport, Hamilton Island has enjoyed
a new lease of life, thanks to the efforts of Australian tycoon,
Bob Oatley. Since buying the island in 2003, the billionaire
and avid sailor has built a swish, upmarket resort called qualia,
a stunning yacht club (with 35 luxury villas) and an 18-hole
golf course on neighbouring Dent Island. Oatleys sense of
razzmatazz is well illustrated by the curved copper roof of
the Hamilton Island Yacht Club. And his effect on the island
is evident; apart from the long-running Hamilton Island
Race Week (held every August), fashion events, ballet
shows and cooking masterclasses by international chefs such
as Tetsuya Wakuda also take place here. But Hamiltons
resurgence really began with the opening of qualia in 2007.
Surrounded by 30 acres of manicured grounds, qualia is
everything the old Hamilton Island was not: sophisticated,
contemporary and elegant. Set on the northern tip of the
island, well away from the marina and busy shopping strip,
the resort has just 59 one-bedroom pavilions and a magnificent
private Beach House. The air of calm is enhanced by the lack
of childrenguests must be aged 16 or over. Each pavilion has
a generous living area, large deck and galley kitchen; Windward
Pavilions also have private plunge pools, as well as elevated
views of the neighbouring islands. All the guest rooms come
with golf buggies (which is very handy on a property this size).
For those who want to be closer to the bustle of Hamilton
Islandor are travelling with childrenthe Yacht Club Villas
From far left: A waiter delivers poolside

drinks at qualia resort on Hamilton
Island; the copper-roofed Hamilton Island
Yacht Club; a Windward Pavilion at qualia
(each with four bedrooms, a kitchen, entertainment area and

outdoor terrace) are a worthy alternative. Guests have access
to the yacht clubs facilities (a gym, pool and sauna), as well
as the marina and the golf course on Dent Island.
THINGS TO DO Sea kayaking, snorkelling and a trip to
the Great Barrier Reef in one of the resorts 17ft catamarans
DONT MISS Lunch at the clubhouse.You dont even have
to pick up a golf club. (www.hamiltonisland.com.au) qualias
Leeward Pavilions (sleeping two) from A$975 ( 57,057);
Yacht Club Villas (sleeping up to eight) from A$915 ( 53,545)
WILSON ISLAND
Peace, quiet and solitude
If youre allergic to superlatives, stop reading now. Pristine,

exquisite and utterly remote, pint-size Wilson Island makes
most other places on the Great Barrier Reef look ordinary.
With no TVs or phones to disturb the peace, guests soon
sink into a shapeless, South Seas idyll. Days are spent beachcombing, dozing in a hammock, watching impossibly perfect
sunsets and listening to the sound of the surf breaking on the
reef (as loud as an angry express train at night).
I spent one happy afternoon watching newly hatched turtles
scurrying down the beach, similar to wind-up toys, and hurling
themselves into the ocean. Two reef sharks were patrolling
out at sea, awaiting their arrival. The survival rate for green
turtles isnt very high, said Toby Layton, the islands [former]
chef. If the seabirds dont get them, the sharks will. Experts
reckon only one in 1,000 reaches adulthood. Just metres away
from the white-sand beach lies a beautiful coral reef that is
home to turtles, manta rays, parrotfish, wrasse and anemones,

plus the occasional (harmless) shark. The protected waters are
even safe enough for the most nervous snorkeller. A honeymoon
couple told me they had been snorkelling every day and still
werent bored. Since turtles have never been hunted in the
waters around Wilson, they are remarkably unfazed by the
presence of humans. Dont be surprised if you find one of
these huge creatures swimming nonchalantly alongside
you under the waves. Its an unforgettable experience.
There are just six luxury tents and a full-time staff of two, so
youll have the island pretty much to yourselfapart from the
boobies, herons and other seabirds that breed here each year.
The tents (on raised timber platforms and with verandas) are
positioned far apart. Mine was called, appropriately, Serenity.
Using the most basic cooking equipment, Layton rustles
up astonishing dishes, such as venison medallions in a redwine jus, scallops with a fennel-and-apple salsa, and chocolate
brle with strawberry and rhubarb compote. The dress
code doesnt extend far beyond shorts, t-shirts and flip-flops;
and one of the few organised activities is sunset drinks and
canaps served on the main beach. With the sun sinking into
the Pacific Ocean and a glass of Champagne in hand, its hard
to imagine a more tranquil place to be.
THINGS TO DO Idling, going for short walks, snorkelling
DONT MISS A drift-snorkel on the reef, alongside an
inquisitive turtle and an indifferent reef shark (or two).
(www.wilsonisland.com) From A$10,742 ( 6.29 lakh) to rent
the island for two nights (sleeps 12), including return transfers
from Heron Island, food and drink, and snorkelling equipment
185
metres from the white-sand beach lies a beautiful coral
186
reef that is home to turtles, manta rays and parrotfish
Wistari Reef, a good driftsnorkelling destination for

guests at Wilson Island
187
BEDARRA ISLAND
Relaxing and romantic (no kids allowed)

Despite several changes in ownership, Bedarra continues to
dazzle with its luxurious accommodation, modern Australian
cuisine, impressive location and eager staff. Part of the
Family Islands, Bedarra is easily accessibleonly 30 minutes
from the mainland by boat transfer. No children under 16
are allowed here, but in any case, this resort would best
suit couples looking for a stress-free retreat, surrounded by
private beaches and pristine rainforest. Most guests are here
for complete relaxation and the food: the resort promotes
Gourmet Weekends with special dgustation menus. The
accommodation includes two pavilions, the Point Villa and
split-level villas hidden in the carefully manicured rainforest.
THINGS TO DO Fishing, diving and snorkelling trips to
the Great Barrier Reef, sea kayaking, nature walks
DONT MISS A spot of birdwatching in the tropical
hinterland. (www.bedarra.com.au) Doubles from A$990
( 57,930), including meals, select drinks and activities
HAGGERSTONE ISLAND
A remote private domain

Lying off Queenslands Cape York Peninsula, this remote
speck of land is about as far north as you can go before you hit
Papua New Guinea. Getting to Haggerstone Island involves
a 600km flight from Cairns to nearby Hicks Island, followed
by a 20-minute boat transfer (just pray for calm seas). The
accommodation could be described as charming, primitive or
basic, depending on your mood. There are just three thatched
188
wooden huts and a larger option, House Mawu, to choose

from, all with electricity, hot running water and private decks.
Mercurial Aussie bushman, Roy Turner, has presided over
Haggerstone with his English wife, Anna, since 1985. Together
they built the open-sided main pavilion that acts as the central
meeting place, office and dining room, and planted the kitchen
garden that provides ingredients for the restaurant. Magical
and remote it is, but just how much you enjoy Haggerstone will
depend on how well you get on with Turner. King Roy treats
the island as his private domain and tends to inspire either
positive or negative feelings in his guests, with little in between.
THINGS TO DO Spear-fishing, game-fishing, snorkelling,
birdwatching and helicopter tours
DONT MISS Snorkelling at the nearby coral reef, followed
by lunch on the islands 40ft boat. (www.haggerstoneisland.
com.au) Doubles from A$3,320 ( 1.94 lakh), including meals,
non-alcoholic drinks and some activities
LIZARD ISLAND
Luxury and mystique

The only land animals we saw here were lizards, and these
seemd to be pretty plenty, which occasioned my naming
the island Lizard Island, wrote Captain James Cook on
12 August 1770. The bow-legged monitor lizards are still here
but one part of their habitat has changed beyond recognition.
Lizard Island resort is an oasis of luxury, with its 40 suites, the
amazing Azure Spa and Ospreys Restaurant, which combines
modern Australian, Asian and European cuisines. The
seven-course dgustation menu can be served at a private
From far left: Australian designer Collette

Dinnigan, who holds fashion shows at qualia
resort; a dish of heirloom vegetables, lentils and
snails at qualia; relaxing after a spa treatment at
the resort; Whitehaven Beach, a short sail away
beach location). The island retains a certain mystique due

to its remote location and celebrity visitors, who have been
checking-in since the 1970s, when Lee Marvin was a regular
guest, attracted by the lure of black marlin. Dive sites (such
as the Cod Hole) are easily accessible in the resorts 51ft
cruiser, and the watersports centre will arrange any number
of activities. As well as the islands 24 beaches, ensure you visit
Cooks Look (at 1,178ft, the highest point on the island), the
peak to which Captain Cook climbed when he first passed
through the insane labyrinth of the Great Barrier Reef.
THINGS TO DO Snorkelling, paddle skiing, scuba diving,
tennis, sailing and visiting the nearby research centre
DONT MISS Taking a motorised dinghy to a remote beach
with a picnic hamper. (www.lizardisland.com.au) Doubles from
A$1,519 ( 88,890), including meals, select drinks and activities
HERON ISLAND
Treasure Island revisited

For anyone raised on South Sea Tales by Robert Louis
Stevenson, Heron Island, a slither of sand and rainforest
off Queenslands Capricorn Coast, is the embodiment of
a childhood fantasy. Declared a national park in 1943, the
island remains devoted to the preservation of its marine and
land-based species, including the reef herons, which gave the
coral cay its name. With 24sq km of coral reef surrounding
the island, snorkelling involves simply diving in from the
beach, although the resort also offers guided adventures for
experienced divers. Some of the resorts guest rooms are rather
dated (the Wistari and Point Suites less so) and the restaurant
menu is very 80s, but on the plus side, it has one of the best
spas on the Great Barrier Reef, its own marine research
station and a Jules Verne-style underwater viewing vessel.
THINGS TO DO Snorkelling, scuba diving, reef walking,
bird, whale and turtle watching
DONT MISS A guided diving trip to the reef to swim
with turtles and giant manta rays. (www.heronisland.com)
Doubles from A$419 ( 24,520)
HAYMAN ISLAND
Large-scale family fun

One of the largest and most beautiful islands in the 74-strong
Whitsunday chain, Hayman has been a major player on the
Australian holiday scene since the 50s. This idyllic spot is
currently undergoing a multi-million-dollar renovation and is
set to relaunch as One&Only Hayman Island in April 2014.
Plans include fresh and innovative decoration in the rooms
and suites, a new One&Only Health Spa, beauty salon and
state-of-the-art fitness centre, a second adult-only pool and
a chill-out lounge. In addition to the resorts already existing
culinary experienceswellness menus in the various
restaurants, contemporary Australian cuisine at Fontaine
and an eight-course feast at The Chefs Table, which can be
enjoyed in the tranquil Rainforest Grovethere will be even
more world-class options, all overseen by international chefs.
Guests fly to nearby Hamilton Island and are transferred to
Hayman by luxury cruiser. Once at the resort, you can do as
much or as little as you like. Theres no shortage of cruises, dive
189
A viewpoint at qualia
resort, looking out
over the Coral Sea
190
expeditions and heli-tours from which to choose. My favourite

is the Reef Adventure Tour, which involves a 40-minute flight
to Hardy Lagoon, a coral pool. Don flippers and snorkels and
jump into the calm waters or observe giant clams, reef sharks,
giant squid, coral cod and sea turtles from a glass-bottomed boat.
THINGS TO DO Nature walks, catamaran sailing, waterskiing,
golf, game-fishing, tennis, croquet and cooking classes
DONT MISS A seaplane adventure to the Hardy Lagoon.
(www.hayman.com.au) Doubles from A$590 ( 34,530)
ORPHEUS ISLAND
beachfront tranquillity for grown-ups

This jungle paradise is 25 minutes north of Townsville
by plane. Starting out as a humble guest house in the 40s,
Orpheus has evolved into one of the most sought-after
getaways in North Queensland. An early visitor was
Vivien Leigh, and guests still arrive in true Hollywood
style, stepping off a helicopter.
Most of the 1,300-hectare island is a protected national park
and the surrounding ocean is part of the Great Barrier Reef
Marine Park. The resort itself can accommodate just 34 guests
at one time and there is a strict policy about noise levels: no
telephones, televisions, day-trippers or children under 15 are
allowed. All 17 rooms, villas and suites are on the beachfront,
surrounded by tropical gardens. Most visitors will obviously
want to explore the coral reefs surrounding the island, and
the resort arranges various expeditions, including guided
scuba-diving and snorkelling trips. The islands dry sclerophyll
forest is also worth exploring; the wildlife includes echidnas,
bandicoots, green tree frogs, ospreys and brahminy kites.
Food is a cornerstone of any stay here, from breakfast in
the open-air restaurant to the seven-course tasting menus.
The executive chef prepares a fresh menu daily, and dishes
include scallops tossed with an angel-hair
salad of spring onion, chilli and water
chestnuts, and cardamom-crusted loin of
pork with fruit sushi. For something really
special, dine under the stars on the islands
private jetty or pick up a gourmet hamper
and sail off to a secluded bay.
THINGS TO DO Scuba diving,
snorkelling, seaplane charters, luxury
cruising, game-fishing, sea kayaking, dinghy
sailing and interpretative nature walks
DONT MISS An early-morning stroll to
share the sunrise with the islands resident
colony of sea eagles. (www.orpheus.com.
au)Doubles from A$900 ( 52,670),
including meals and watersports facilities
Daydream Island Resort and Spa may lack the glamour

of its more expensive rivals, and the 80s dcor and buffet
meals wont be to everyones taste, but it is a bustling,
affordable option for families and theres an impressive range
of outdoor activities, as well as a well-run kids club. Children
will also enjoy the private Living Reef, one of the worlds
largest man-made, living coral-reef lagoons, stocked with
bamboo sharks, barramundi, cod, bream, parrotfish and 80
species of coral. If you value your peace and quiet, request
a room far away from the pool area.
THINGS TO DO Tennis, bocce, beach volleyball,
snorkelling, jet-skiing, kayaking, minigolf, rainforest walks,
sunset cruises and private helicopter tours (including
a Champagne picnic on Whitehaven Beach)
DONT MISS Hug a baby shark or feed a stingray at the
Living Reef. (www.daydreamisland.com) Doubles from A$360
( 21,070), including select activities such as yoga
Need to know
GETTING THERE
Fly to Cairns with Cathay Pacific (www.cathaypacific.

com. Stopover in Hong Kong) or Singapore Airlines (www.
singaporeair.com. Stopovers in Singapore and Brisbane)
from Mumbai and New Delhi. Indian passport-holders can apply for
an Australian tourist visa from the Australia High Commission India
(www.india.embassy.gov.au) in New Delhi. Visas cost 7,700 and
take about 15 working days to process.
WHEN TO GO
There is no bad time to visit the Great Barrier Reef, but the
best time to go is between April and November, when underwater
visibility is better and the temperature is rarely lower than 22C.
map: neil gower
DAYDREAM ISLAND
family-friendly and affordable

At just 1km long and 300-400m wide, this is one of the
smallest (and most accessible) of the Whitsunday Islands,
which include Hamilton, South Molle, Lindeman
and Hook. Direct flights from Sydney, Brisbane and
Melbourne to nearby Hamilton Island, plus a regular
30-minute catamaran service from the mainland make
it a good stop-off for anyone on a tight schedule.
191
Pine trees near The Khyber

Himalayan Resort & Spa, Gulmarg
192
snow-kissed
gulmarg
the future looks bright for this paradisiacal ski resort,

with more and more adventure seekers hitting its slopes,
finds Rebecca Byerly. Photographs by Tom Parker
193
tanding in the doorway of his dishevelled,

The highest point in the resort, next to Hotel Highlands
green shack, in the winter of 2008, Raja
Park, has the best view of Gulmarg. From here you can see
Khan beckoned me inside. With a rusty
the crossroads of history, people and terrain that make this
tin roof and a sign that read Rajas Place
place so unique. There is a stone Catholic Church perched
since 1985, the backpacker joint was a
on a bluff, a reminder of the British who started skiing here
happening spot in Gulmarg. Half a dozen
in the 1920s. Beneath it, there is a gurudwara, a temple and
rugged-looking guys of various nationalities and ages
a mosque. Beyond that, the Himalayas wrap themselves
were squeezed around a table. We talked into the
around the town like a fortress of sharks teeth, each peak
night as Khans young sons, Ashraf and little Raja,
bigger and sharper than the last. This is the spot to take in
served us naan off the bukhari and cups of steaming
the expanse of your skiing options and plan a route.
kava. It was easy to fit in. Mostly, though, I wanted
Despite the continued uncertainty in Kashmir and
to piece together Khans days travelling in
intermittent unrest that sometimes makes getting to Gulmarg
Afghanistan, Pakistan and Kashmir. The thing
difficult, Raja Khan was right: tourists are coming back
I understood from our
in droves and putting
conversation was the
Gulmarg on the map as a
brightest spot in his
ski destination. Though the
troubled life: tourists were
hill station is still decades
coming back to Kashmir.
behind world-class resorts
Over the years, Gulmarg
such as Chamonix in the
has become a mecca for
French Alps or Whistler in
adventurers who love the
Canada, it has transformed
thrill of skiing on its big,
in the past 10 years.
jagged mountains. Being
Returning to Kashmir for
in the Himalayas is sacred.
my fifth season, the changes
Once you fall for them,
are visible everywhere.
as thousands of tourists
Though much of Gulmarg
from around the world
is still lacking in basic
have, its impossible to
infrastructure such as septic
stay away. The Himalayas,
systems, the improvements
in their beauty, majesty
in the ski patrol, hotels,
and enormity, are yours
equipment and the
to spend days touring up
introduction of heli-skiing
and skiing down. Nestled
are undeniable.
between these mountains,
A relatively new sport
Gulmarg operates in
in India, skiing is still
a world of its own.
in its nascent stages on
Having driven up the
the subcontinent. The
treacherous serpentine
vast majority of skiers in
road from Tangmarg
Gulmarg are foreigners.
(the last town you pass
But each winter, more and
before reaching the resort)
more Indians are taking
many times, Ive become
to the slopes. (These
accustomed to cars sliding
include film director Homi
off the road and needing
Adajania, actor Chitrangda
a push. Gulmarg itself is
Singh and industrialist Adi
busy and noisy: a drive
The majority of skiers in gulmarg are Godrej.) The success of
through the market
winter tourism in Gulmarg
foreigners, but each season, more
takes you past dozens
is built on the tenacity of
of dhabas and restaurants,
indians are going skiing on its big, intrepid foreign travellers
several boasting vegetarian
and passionate Kashmiris
jagged mountains. you might even
options. While many
who believe tourism will
see a smattering of celebs
tourists like this
develop as the political
area because of its
situation improves.
affordable accommodation, cheap eats and buzz,
The most important factor in Gulmargs growth is the
I prefer driving onwards, and past the snow-covered
improvement in safety standards for skiers.
golf course, to the quieter side. Here, the biggest menace
Back in 2008, Gulmarg was 50 years behind ski resorts in
is the packs of monkeys and dogs that get a kick out of
the West and Japan: now, organisations such as the Gulmarg
chasing tourists on skis.
Avalanche Center provide critical life-saving services to r
194
A ski shop in Gulmarg.

Opposite: Gondolas ferry
skiers to the mountains
195
With only a few skiers left, we had the mountain to ourselves.

skiing down a massive bowl in perfect powder brought tears
to my eyes. this is why you come to gulmarg
A local in knee-deep powder

on Mount Apharwat. Opposite:
The lobby at The Khyber
Himalayan Resort & Spa
196
197
visitors. Founded by Brian Newman, who has been the

beginners, there is also the option of skiing from the
head of the ski patrol for six years, it provides daily
gondolas mid-station or getting a ride on the chairlift.
avalanche bulletins on its website and at the entrance to
Last year, after 17 years of snowboarding, I learnt how
the gondola. Newman also gives avalanche awareness
to ski in Gulmarg. Though its not the ideal place to take
courses every Tuesday evening at the Pine Palace Hotel.
up skiing or snowboarding because it lacks groomed runs
(The course and party that ensues is the only set social
and instruction, it is still possible to learn hereand its
event of the week.) This season, a rescue channel is being
much more affordable than heading to Europe. I have met
added for skiers, which will allow them to alert the ski
several Indian couples who have returned to Gulmarg for
patrol if they are injured on the mountain. While no skiers
consecutive seasons and learnt the sport. By late March,
or snowboarders have died in Gulmarg since 2007, it is still
after spending the better part of two months manoeuvring
highly advisable that you learn avalanche safety, carry
various kinds of face-plants, I became comfortable on
a beacon and probe, and hire a certified guide.
skis and ventured into the backcountry with a friend from
Improvements in safety and infrastructure are also
South Africa, armed with plans and avalanche equipment.
creating new opportunities
With only a handful of
in tourism. Visitors to
skiers left on the mountain,
Gulmarg can now stay
we had the place to
in the towns new luxury
ourselves. Skiing down a
hotel, The Khyber
massive bowl in perfect
Himalayan Resort & Spa.
powder, through the paper
Walking into its massive
trees and into the alpine,
lobby which fuses Kashmiri
brought tears to my eyes.
and Middle Eastern design,
This is why you come to
I find it hard to believe this
Gulmarg. The experience
is Gulmarg: the restaurant,
of these mountains,
Cloves, has steak and
snow and the people in
salmon on its menu; there
all their eccentricities is
is a cigar bar, a billiard
unparalleled.
room and gym; and the
hile nearly
bathtubs offer panoramic
everything in
views of the mountains.
Gulmarg is in
This season, The Khyber
transition, there are some
will launch an ayurvedic
establishments, such as
spa. (The only drawback
Yasin Khans ski shop (his
is that the hotel doesnt
larger enterprise, Kashmir
serve alcohol.) While it is
Alpine Adventures, also
certainly the place to stay
provides guides, heli-skiing
for luxury, the colonialopportunities and hotel
style Hotel Highlands Park
packages) that never
is my favourite. It sprawls
seem to lose their rustic
across a hill, overlooking
charm. For tourists in
Mount Apharwat. Some
need of ski equipment,
of my most memorable
Khan is the go-to man.
evenings have been spent
His ski shop is one of
sipping a beer, sitting next
the oldest and best in
to the huge bukhari in the
Clockwise from top left: The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa; the view
Gulmarg. A legend in these
lounge, and talking with
from Mount Apharwat; a Moroccan lamp at The Khyber Himalayan
parts, he has been working
fellow travellers about their
Resort & Spa; Kashmiri curries at The Khybers Cloves restaurant.
Opposite: Skiing on Mount Apharwat
with winter tourists since
day in the mountains.
the 1970s. Weathered
Unlike ski resorts in the
but suave, he must have
Alps and North America
broken many hearts in his
that have dozens of
younger days. Decades before there was a gondola, Khan
inbound, groomed ski slopes, Gulmarg is raw. There is one
was guiding adventurous souls through waist-deep powder,
gondolabut at 13,400ft, it is one of the highest in the
up thousands of feet of vertical climb. One of his clients in
world. From the top you can see the jagged Pir Panjal rise
the late 1980s was Martin Jones, the founder of a major helilike an open jaw across the horizon. There is something
skiing outfit in New Zealand. As talk of the governments
terrifyingly spectacular about this place. From here, you
plan to build a gondola spread, Jones began to dream of
have the choice of dropping onto hundreds of miles of
bringing high-end clients and heli-skiing to Gulmarg. r
backcountry powder or on to the inbound slopes. For
198
199
The conflict in Kashmir put those ideas on hold, but

as tourists came back, Jones plan to start heli-skiing
was rekindled. The idea of flying a helicopter just a few
kilometres from the Line of Control, where the possibility
of getting lost could land you in Pakistan, seemed like
a pipe dream. But given how far Gulmarg has come from
the ghost town it was less than a decade ago, I believed it
was possibleand now Jones has proved it by setting up
a company, Kashmir Heliski, with the help of a local partner,
Billa Majeed Bakshi. While skinning or boot packing to the
tops of peaks with a certified guide will always be my preferred
choice of getting up a mountain, you can now get there by
helicopter, too. From Khans shop, you can watch an AS350
B3e helicopter ferry heli-skiers to previously untouched peaks
in the Himalayas. The inclement climate and complexities of
operating here often leads to cancelled flights, but those lucky
enough to have made the journey are awestruck.
After all, Gulmargs foundation as a ski destination was
built on people who saw hope in a place much of the world
had written off as a war zone. Ido Neiger, who worked in the
Israeli army and as a snowboard instructor, didnt hesitate in
coming to Gulmarg in the midst of the turmoil in 2000. Sitting
cross-legged in his pheran, smoking a hookah from Khans
homemade bubbling contraption, Neiger once told me his story.

The first time he trudged into Gulmarg, all of the hotels were
shut. There was only outdated ski equipment, including one
snowboard from the 1980s and a rag-tag group of untrained
Kashmiris whod grown up in the shadow of Apharwat.
Like dozens of people who would come after him,
Neiger saw promise in the hill station. Over the next few
winters, with the support of skiing experts from across
the globe, he trained the Kashmiri ski patrol that Newman
now heads. Neiger and many other tourists helped equip
Khan with snowboards, skis, boots and bindings.
And that is what makes this place so speciallike
a sphinx rising from the ashes, we are watching Gulmarg
evolve. So, whats next? Khans son, Arif, a strapping 23year-old whos making a run for the 2014 Olympics as a
downhill ski racer, has an idea. He believes that, in another
decade, Mount Apharwat will be dominated by Indian skiers.
Every winter, about 500 young Indians are being trained at
the ski school, he told me. Its just a matter of time before
those kids will be good enough to really take advantage of
the skiing here. It is not hard to imagine. You just have to
look around to realise how far things have already come
to believe that anything is possible in Kashmir.
NEED TO KNOW: GULMARG

GETTING THERE
Fly to Srinagar
with IndiGo
(www.goindigo.in.
Stopover in New Delhi)
or Jet Airways (www.
jetairways.com. Stopover
in New Delhi) from major
Indian cities. Gulmarg
is a two-hour drive from
Srinagar. Cars can be
rented from Srinagar
International Airport
and cost about 2,500.
Nedous Hotel
Dating back to
1888, this colonialstyle heritage hotel
sprawls across 50
acres of lush land.
Stay in one of its luxury
chalets that overlook
the Himalayas. (www.
nedoushotelgulmarg.
com) Doubles
from 6,000
Hotel Highlands
Park
Over the years, this iconic

hotel has played host
to several dignitaries,
including politicians,
200
royals and film stars.

Bollywood fans should
book the Bobby Suite,
where the popular Hindi
film was filmed back
in the 1970s. (www.
kashmirnetwork.com/
highlands) Doubles
from 7,000

Resort & Spa
With sweeping views
of the Apharwat peaks,
this plush new resort
offers spacious cottages,
a gym and an ayurvedic
spa but no alcohol.
(www.khyberhotels.com)
Doubles from 12,800
Nedous Dining Hall

Both its European dishes
and traditional wazwan
(a Kashmiri multi-course
spread) come highly
recommended. The
staff also packs lunches
for guests looking to
spend the day out. (www.
nedoushotelgulmarg.com)
Cloves

Resort & Spas multi-
cuisine restaurant
serves everything from
pizzas to dim sum.
(www.khyberhotels.com)
Play golf
At 8,700ft above sea
level, the massive
18-hole, par-72
Gulmarg Golf Course
is one of the highest
in the world. (www.
jktourism.org)
Go trekking
Adventure enthusiasts
can trek to Khilanmarg,
a meadow filled with
flowers in the spring,
or through the snowclad mountains to
Alpather Lake, which
lies frozen for most
of the year.
Fishing trips
Morning expeditions to
either Ningle Nallah or
Ferozepur Nallah, both
famous for trout fishing,
are popular with visitors.
Take a gondola ride
This is a great way to

enjoy views of the areas
spectacular natural
beauty without breaking

into a sweat. (www.
gulmarggondola.com)
Visit the Maharani

temple
This massive shrine is

perched atop a hill and
visible from all corners
of Gulmarg.
SKI ESSENTIALS
Enrol in certified skiing
courses with the Indian
Institute of Skiing
and Mountaineering
(http://iismgulmarg.
com; 14-day courses
from 5,000). Rent ski
equipment and hire
a guide from Kashmir
Alpine Adventures
(www.kashmiralpine.
com; daily equipment
and guide from 2,500),
locally known as Yasins
ski shop. It can also
make arrangements for
experienced skiers to
go powder-skiing and
heli-skiing (from 60,000
per person, per day).
Alternatively, heliski with
Kashmir Heliski (www.
kashmirheliski.in; from
70,000 per person,

per day). Professional
skiing routes can be
chalked out from the
Apharwat Peak all the
way down to Tangmarg
via Drung or Baba Reshi
Shrine. Gondola phases
1 and 2 also serve as
starting points for
skiing routes.
NOTE
It is important to ski
in a group of at least
four people and carry
the necessary first-aid
equipment at all times.
Be sure to check the
weather forecasts for
possible chances of
avalanches or landslides.
Gulmarg Avalanche
Center (http://gulmarg
avalanche.org) provides
avalanche education
(7pm, Tuesdays at Pine
Palace Hotel) and daily
bulletins to help ensure
safety for skiers.
WHEN TO GO
The best time
for skiing is from
December to March.
Skiiers wait to board a

gondola up to the slopes
201
202
photographs: david matheson/gallery stock;

alessandro Passerini/Photovogue
A view along Avenida

Presidente Roque Senz Pea
towards The Obelisk of
Buenos Aires. Opposite:
A couple dance the tango
Dance
the
night
away
The rhythms of
the tango have
long been at the
beating heart of
Buenos Aires.
Juan Madrid
reveals his
insiders guide
to where to strut
your stuff in the
Argentinian capital
203
and Gene Kelly danced to a version

of it in the musical Anchors Aweigh.
Id also listened to this moody melody
and seen people dance the sensuous
steps of the tango to it in places as varied
as Shanghai, Samarkand, Porto Velho
in Orinoco, Dakar, Saint Petersburg
and Istanbulto mention just a few.
In Turkey, some newly-wed couples
now choose it for their wedding dance,
rejecting the more traditional waltz.
But nowhere is the tango more
prevalent than in the vibrant city of
Buenos Aires. Over the past 15 years,
this dance form has re-blossomed in
spectacular style in the Argentinian
capital. And these days, there are
hardly any ballrooms or cafs that
do not end the night with La
Cumparsita to signal that the party
has finished. There are now regular
music shows, which attract hundreds
of tourists, and these have allowed for
a new generation of dancers, musicians,
singers, conductors and choreographers
to renew the genre, giving this immortal
dance a fresh lease of life. Old and r
NEED TO KNOW:
BUENOS AIRES
GETTING THERE
Fly to Buenos Aires with Turkish
Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com.
Stopover in Istanbul), Qatar Airways
(www.qatarairways.com. Stopover in Doha)
or South African Airways (www.flysaa.com.
Stopover in Johannesburg) from Mumbai
and New Delhi. Indian passport-holders
can apply for an Argentinian tourist visa
from the Consulate General of Argentina
in Mumbai (http://cgmum.mrecic.gov.ar).
Visas are free of charge, but take at least
three working days to process.
Faena Hotel
This lavish boutique property, in the
dynamic neighbourhood of Puerto Madero,
is home to Rojo Tango (Red Tango), one
of Buenos Aires best dance spectacles.
(www.faenahotelanduniverse.com) Doubles
from US$439 ( 27,105)
Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Buenos Aires
This striking hotelset in the 1930sbuilt Palace Duhao on Avenida Alvear,
near La Plaza de las Naciones Unidas in
Recoletacombines old-school charm
with contemporary design. (http://buenos
aires.park.hyatt.com) Doubles from
US$540 ( 33,340)
Mine Hotel
This hip hotel, with a pleasing ambience
and a pool in the courtyard, is located in
the chic Palermo Soho district, known for
its buzzing nightlife. (www.minehotel.com)
GooD vAlue Doubles from US$150 ( 9,260)
Clsica y Moderna
Founded in 1938 as a bookshop, this is
now a famous and atmospheric restaurant,
bar, art gallery and library. It is located
on the bustling Avenida Callao. (www.
clasicaymoderna.com)
el Mercado
This is one of the three restaurants at
Faena Hotel. At this culinary hotspot, you
can expect excellent traditional Argentinian
food in an understated, characterful setting
inspired by Europes colourful markets.
(www.faenahotelanduniverse.com)
Miranda
With its raw-concrete walls and an open
kitchen with a huge fireplace, this modern
grill is one of Palermos coolest hangouts.
The speciality here is grilled meat,
accompanied by salads, potato chips
and grilled vegetables. Theres also
204
photographs: yadid levy
n 1974, during the Second

Kurdish-Iraqi War, I arrived
in Erbil in Iraq, along with
a group of Western journalists
accompanying the Iraqi
troops. Though situated in the
remote and mountainous northeastern
part of a country devastated by war, the
city still had one bar intact. We headed
inside. To welcome us, an orchestra
made up of indigenous musicians
started to play a curious version of
La Cumparsita, using a pfano (or
high-pitched flute), a tambourine and
drums made from goatskin. This piece
of musicfirst composed in 1916 by
a student from Uruguay called Gerardo
Matos Rodrguezhas gone on to
define that iconic dance form: the tango.
This occasion in war-torn Iraq
wasnt the first time I had heard La
Cumparsita; it has featured often
on the screen and the stageWilliam
Holden danced to it with Gloria Swanson
in Sunset Boulevard, as did Jack Lemmon,
dressed as a woman, in Some Like it Hot.
Woody Allen chose it for Radio Days,
Clockwise from top left: Carlos Lujn performs in San

Telmo; Puente de la Mujer or Womens Bridge in Puerto
Madero; La Mercera fashion store in Palermo Soho;
Caminito Street in La Boca. Opposite: Recoleta Cemetery
205
live performances on Wednesdays

through until Saturdays each week,
as well as a milonga every Sunday.
The passion for the tangowhich
dominates Buenos Aireshas also
returned to many of the citys historic
cafs. At the beginning of the century,
these cafs used musicians to liven
up the evenings. But this practice
disappeared in the 1960s, only to reemerge in the later part of the 90s.
A famous example is the 155-year-old
Gran Caf Tortoni, which is one of
the oldest and most beautiful cafs
in Buenos Airespossibly even the
worldand has music and tango
shows every night. Confitera Ideal,
founded in 1912, is a refined and
elegant space, with high, stuccoed
ceilings and large mirrors on the
walls. The desserts are exquisite.
Natu Poblet, the Argentine-Catalan
owner of restaurant-bar-library Clsica
y Moderna, explains: According to
writer Guillermo Saccomanno, winner
of the Argentine National Literature
direct expression
The tango is a
of something that poets have often tried
to state in words:
that a fight may be a celebration!
Jorge Luis Borges, writer and poet
the relief
ango has existed in Buenos

Aires for many years. There
are no cultural centres (called
paraculturales in Argentina, and
subsidised by the City Government)
that dont have tango lessons.
Furthermore, they all have small
shows, dance exhibits and live music
performed by young, faithful followers
of pure tango and tango-fusion.
My favourite of these is Centro
Cultural Ave Tango. On the door,
there is a sign which reads, the
milonga [or tango party] begins at
9.30pm and is organised by Skinny
Luca. Skinny Luca and her dance
partner, Guerry, teach both the young
and old of this neighbourhood.
The other place Id highly
recommend is Centro Cultural
Torquato Tasso, which hosts composers
and songwriters, in addition to hosting
206
Prize, the tango lost popularity during

the Argentinian military dictatorship.
During the 1970s and well into the
1980s, it disappeared from academies,
schools and dance centres alike. It was
simply not in fashion.
On the other hand, Juan Sasturain,
a well-known writer, journalist and host
of a famous cultural programme on
television, comments, Perhaps it was
because the regime tried to propel the
tango as their ownto the detriment
of other cultural forms. This meant that
there was an entire generation of us
that were never able to tango. The great
expansion of the tango in Argentina
dates back to the beginning of the
1990s. In the past few years, tango has
spread everywhere again, and children
are now learning it in academies.
The paradox is that we, as parents,
never learnt it but our kids are. r
a superb wine list, with about 90 labels to

choose from. (http://parrillamiranda.com)
almacn secreto club
Contrary to what its name suggests,
the secret store in Villa Crespo was
never a shop and is no longer very secret.
It is, however, a great choice if youre
looking for top-notch Argentinian regional
specialitiesthe menu is divided into
el norte, el centro and el sur. For a
mouthwatering taste of the south, try
the carne al horno de barro (meat slowcooked in an adobe oven) or the cordero
patagnico (Patagonian lamb). (http://
almacensecretoclub.blogspot.in)
Comme il Faut
This showroom, in a private apartment
in the historic Rues des Artisans, should
be your first port of call if youre on the
hunt for that perfect pair of tango shoes.
And these arent just any old shoes;
they are works of art created by Alicia
Muiz, the designer, dancer and habitu
of many of Buenos Aires milongas.
(www.commeilfaut.com.ar)
Victorio Tango Shoes
This is another excellent spot for both men
and women to buy a stylish pair of dancing
shoes. (www.victoriotangoshoes.com.ar)
La Fundamental Sombreros
This is the place to go for traditional
Argentinian tango hats for gentlemen.
Youll find it tucked away on Dr JM Giuffra
Street in San Telmo district. (http://
sombrerolafundamental.blogspot.in)
Felx
For high fashion and stylish clothes for
men, women and children, head to this slick
Palermo store. (www.felixba.com.ar)
La Mercera
This chic boutique on Armenia Street,
also in Palermo, sells a wonderfully eclectic
mix of colourful accessories. Here youll find
belts, scarves, huge hats and a plethora of
statement handbags, designed for those
who like to show off. (+54 11 4831 8558)
Feria de Mataderos
At this vibrant fair on Lisandro de la
Torre y Avenida de Los Corrales, in the
far west of the city, watch gauchos display
impressive horsemanship skills; indulge
yourself with hearty, traditional food or
gourmet cheese and home-made liqueur
samples; or simply browse the massive craft
market to the sounds of folk music. Locals
often join in with country dances around the
central stage; dont be afraid to get involved.
(www.feriademataderos.com.ar)
photograph: yadid levy
new halls compete to host the most

magnificent and lavish performances.
Tourists of all types disembark from
the numerous cruise ships that drop
anchor at the port during high season,
and they are taken to the shows,
which usually include dinner and,
at times, tango classes.
The most notable spectacles take
place at the following venues: Caf de
los Angelitos, El Querand, BocaTango,
Esquina Homero Manzi, Piazzolla
Tango (I find this to be one of the most
beautiful in the city) and Rojo Tango
at Faena Hotel in the waterfront
area of Puerto Madero. These shows
are mainly for tourists, but are also
frequented by locals who are looking
for a memorable night out. The level of
the performances is very hightheres
nothing tackywith groundbreaking
creativity as well as excellent musicians
and dancers. Dinner starts at around
8.30pm and the shows kick off at about
10pm. You can choose to eat or not, but
the best places expect you to dine there.
A couple dance the

tango in La Boca
207
208
But the venues I like most are the

former social clubs and recreational
centres, which still preserve the flavour
of days gone by. In this era of discos and
plastic bars, these restored, old places
are steeped in tradition: the single men
stand beside a row of tables at the front
of the room, while the women and
couples stand on the other side, with the
empty dance floor between them. With
a single glance, the men invite the
women to dance. The women consent
(or not) with a sign, and then they dance.
I would recommend La Catedral,
which is tucked away (theres no sign
on the door) but certainly worth a visit.
On arrival, a member will charge you
an entrance fee: as a non-member, you
must pay 40 pesos ( 425) for a one-hour
novices or beginners class or 20 pesos
( 210) to assist or watch. A long staircase
leads to an enormous barn with a waxed
floor, and tables and chairs facing a sort
of altar presided over by an enormous
photograph of the legendary tango
singer Carlos Gardel. This is where the
musicians play during the milonga. r
Caf de los Angelitos

Every night at this historic caf on Avenida
Rivadavia, you can witness 21 artists strut
their stuff on stage. Take advantage of their
Dinner Show menu, and enjoy fine dining while
you watch. (www.cafedelosangelitos.com)
El Querand
Founded in 1920, this historic tanguera on
Per Street is a bit of an institution. With its
impressive art deco faade, chessboardpatterned floors and excellent food (from
Florentine crpe to Portuguese chicken), this
is a good place to watch the tango and feast
simultaneously. (www.querandi.com.ar)
BocaTango
This restaurant and theatre is situated
opposite Boca Juniors Stadium in La Bocas
Brandsen Avenue. Typical Argentine dishes
are served in the antique-filled restaurant,
while a magnificent tango show takes place
on stage, performed by dancers, singers and
a live orchestra. (www.bocatango.com.ar)
Esquina Homero Manzi
This popular place is named after Homero
Manzi, a poet, journalist, playwright and
film director who revolutionised the tango.
Steeped in history, it has stood on the
corner of San Juan and Boedo avenues
since 1927. Hundreds of tourists flock here
each night to watch the live performances.
(www.esquinahomeromanzi.com.ar)
Piazzolla Tango
Situated at the Astor Piazzolla Theatre
in Galera Gemes (in Puerto Madero),
Piazzolla Tango offers dinner and a tango
show, and includes excellent food and
wine. The spectacle itself is captivating,
showcasing some of Buenos Aires finest
musicians, dancers and singers. And for
a more private evening, you can choose
to watch from one of the ancient balconies.
(www.piazzollatango.com)
Rojo Tango
The caberet nightclub at Hotel Faena is
a must-visit, with the star of the show being
Carlos Capello, who is undoubtedly one
of the greatest tango dancers of our time.
(http://rojotango.com)
Centro Cultural Ave Tango
Situated in the buzzing neighbourhood
of La Boca, on Almirante Brown Avenue,
this traditional cultural centre offers tango
lessons and also hosts small shows.
(+54 11 4302 2825)
Centro Cultural Torquato Tasso
This cultural centre-turned-legendary
club de msica on Defensa Street, in
San Telmo, is mostly frequented by
photographs: getty; yadid levy; alex del Rio
he best way to find the tango in

Buenos Aires is to get the free
newspaper, La Portea Tango,
which is available in tourist offices and
hotels across the city. Alternatively,
download your online edition from
www.lptango.com.ar.
If you want to soak up the tango
with the porteos (or locals), dont miss
going to a milonga, a word that was
first alluded to in the 19th century in
a popular peasant song that was sung
by gaucho minstrels. With the arrival of
Spanish and Italian immigrants in the
middle of the 19th century, primitive
milongas began to form in Buenos Aires
and, by the early 20th century, the tango
was very well established.
However, the recovery of the places
where it was danced (the milongueaba,
which were often ancient sheds or
neighbourhood courtyards) is, in fact,
a relatively recent phenomenon.
Today, most places are happy to teach
beginners, and classes usually take
place in the afternoons, with the dances
themselves following in the evenings.
Clockwise from top left: Felx store in Palermo Soho;

the famous Floralis Genrica sculpture in Plaza de las
Naciones Unidas; steak and chips at Miranda grill;
gauchos at Feria de Mataderos. Opposite: Gran Caf Tortoni
209
is that no one knows. Whenever I return

to Buenos Aires, I go and listen to him.
On Sundays, an elderly pair called
Osvaldo and Pochi perform in the
street between Defensa and Humberto
I, as well as in San Telmo. They are
masters of two forms of tango called
canyengue and orillero, the primitive
dances from the barracks and brothels
of the suburbs, and they like to teach
those who wish to learn. In their youth,
they were cabaret dancers and even
toured America. People from the
neighbourhood say that they were once
very famous and that, now, they do not
want to languish in an asylum.
To switch from spectator to
performer, go to one of the magical
places Ive mentioned thus far and start
by taking a few lessons, which last for
about two hours. Then you can stay
on and dance the night away.
First and foremost, you need to
wear suitable shoes: women must wear
Give me one good reason not to [die].

Ill give you two:
and drive a Ferrari
better than anyone Ive ever seen.
Scent of a Woman (1992)
you can dance

the tango
classical; its more open and theres

more coordination between the man
and the woman. Julio Balmaceda
gives classes with his partner, Corina
de la Rosa, and participates in shows
all over the world.
n La Bocaone of the oldest

neighbourhoods in the city, where
the first immigrants landed
dancers perform around the touristy
and folkloric Caminito Street. From
La Boca, go to San Telmo district,
where there is an old man who still
sings in the ancient style. He performs
on Defensa Street, beside Plaza
Dorrego, where there is an open antique
and craft market on Sundays. Carlos
Lujn, known as Gardelito, usually
sings opposite the Casa de Cambio,
accompanied by his guitar. He is an
extraordinary singer and imitates Carlos
Gardel to perfection. You may wonder
why he sings on the street, but the truth
210
high heels, with an ankle strap, and

gentlemens shoes should have a leather
sole. If you dont own any tango shoes,
why not buy a pair? My favourite stores
are Victorio Tango Shoes and Comme
il Faut, where youll find the chicest
dancing shoes in Buenos Aires. And if
a lady wishes to take tradition one step
further, she could give her gentleman
a hat, a custom that is centuries old. For
this purpose, Id highly recommend La
Fundamental Sombreros in San Telmo.
Having said this, it isnt imperative
that you have special clothing for tango
(although the Argentinians would
admire your effort and elegance). Skirts
with long slits arent compulsory and,
indeed, are only worn by artists at
shows and cabaret dancers of a past era.
All that really matters is that you have
a deep understanding of the history and
style of tango and, of course, a desire
to dance. So, everyone get ready: the
milonga is about to begin.
young movers and shakers. The Argentinian

musicians, songwriters and dancers who
perform here are often world-renowned.
The venue offers tango classes as well
as amazing food and cocktails. (www.
torquatotasso.com.ar)
Gran Caf Tortoni
Founded in 1858, Gran Caf Tortoni, on
the wide, tree-lined Avenida de Mayo, is
supposedly the oldest caf in Argentina,
a fact that is reflected in the traditional
dcorpanelled walls, oak tables and
green marble. There are music and tango
shows here every night from 10.30pm.
(www.cafetortoni.com.ar)
Confitera Ideal
This music-and-dance caf is one of the
most stylish in the city, with chandeliers
and opulent marble stairs that are evocative
of Paris. Youll find it in the centre on
Suipacha Street, not far from the citys
most famous monument, The Obelisk of
Buenos Aires. (www.confiteriaideal.com)
La Catedral
This social and cultural club on Sarmiento
Street may be in the busy, touristy district
of Almagro, but inside it feels as if time
has stood still. The hidey-hole, filled with
framed art, tango dancers and folklore,
is the perfect place to while away the hours.
Theres also an interesting art gallery to
peruse, as well as tango classes every
day. (www.lacatedralclub.com)
La Viruta
If youre serious about learning to dance,
La Viruta on Armenia Street, in the hip
Palermo Soho area, is your best bet. The
venue, which claims to host the biggest
milonga in Argentina, offers tango, rock
and salsa classes every evening, taught by
experienced dancers. Private lessons are
also available. (www.lavirutatango.com)
Saln Canning
Another great place to learn to tango and
groove with Buenos Aires cool kids is this
huge hall on Avenida Scalabrini Ortiz in
Palermo Viejo, where Julio Balmaceda
gives lessons with his partner, Corina de
la Rosa. Various milongas take place here,
the most popular of which is Parakultural
on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
There are also classes here. (www.
parakultural.com.ar)
Dancing in the street
You can watch the tango performed
by street dancers in the San Telmo and
La Boca neighbourhoods, particularly
around Caminito Street, Defensa Street
and Plaza Dorrego.
photographs: yadid levy
Youll find another old place called

La Viruta in the district of Palermo.
Here, you walk in and come out
dancing, a veteran waiter tells me.
Once upon a time, only the old would
come here. Now, our grandchildren do,
he says. Others gather here to dine at
tables fixed to the walls.
Saln Canning is the fiefdom of
Julio Balmaceda, considered by many
to be one of the best dancers of the
so-called New Tango. Julio is the son
of legendary tango dancer Miguel
Balmaceda. Well, I dont really call
it the New Tango, [to me] its just the
tango, he says. What I do is innovate.
I grew up with the tango and, as a child,
I came to the small cafs with my father
to watch the old folks dancing; thats
how I learnt. However, Marta Alvarez,
one of the Salns advanced students
and the coordinator of The Cultural
Center of Spain in Buenos Aires, says,
The New Tango is different to the
Couples dance the tango

at a popular milonga on
Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo
211
The experts
Your travel queries answered H Woody Allens Manhattan H Win a Thai holiday
q&a
We asked three top film directors where they would

set their dream scenes. By namrata Bhawnani
Most recent film:
Ek Tha Tiger
(2012)
BURMA
My favourite road trip...
is the one from Yangon to
Mandalay because its the
historic road that the Indian

National Army (INA) took during
World War II. [For his debut
documentary, The Forgotten
Army (1999), Khan retraced
Balloons float
over Mandalay
212 cond nast Traveller Dec-Jan 2013-14
this route with plucky female

INA soldier and survivor,
Captain Lakshmi Sehgal.]
My perfect wedding scene...
would be set in Yangons

Shwedagon Pagoda (www.
shwedagonpagoda.com).
Most iconic cities are defined
by their monuments, and no
other monument dominates
the Yangon cityscape like the
Shwedagon Pagoda. A glow
emanates from this shrine;
it is the very soul of Burma.
phoTogrAph: 4corners
kABiR khAn
Experts
rohan sippy
Kyaiktiyo
Pagoda, Yangon
Most recent film:

Nautanki Saala!
(2013)
neW yorK City

is the classic coast-to-coast

journey from new york to
san Diego. I did the trip with
my best friend years ago and
we stopped everywhere
Michigan, South Dakota, Mount
Rushmore, Utah, Arizonawhile
driving along the Pacific Coast.
The US is extraordinary; its
national parks are stunning in
scale and beauty. The sheer size
truly puts you in your place.
My perfect wedding
scene...would be in the angel
orensanz Foundation (www.
orensanz.org) building in the
lower east side. Its a beautiful

structure with a wonderful
atmosphereand its set in
my favourite neighbourhood.
My ideal romantic proposal...

would take place in the East

would take place at the
golden rock [officially called
the Kyaiktiyo Pagoda]. This
rock seems to be on the verge
of rolling down the hill, and
legend has it that its balancing
on the hair of the Buddha.
Reaching the pagoda involves
a half-day trek, which adds to
the romance, and the rock itself
glows as its covered with gold.
phoToGraphs: 4Corners; DaviD Butow/

CorBis; inDiapiCture.in
My pick for an emotional

parting scene... is the u bein
bridge in amarapura town.
The teak bridge is hundreds of

years old and no nails were used
in its making. Its also one of
the globes most photographed
sites, with famous sunsets. With
the protagonists in silhouette, it
would make a striking backdrop
for an evocative goodbye scene.
My epic action-packed
sequence... would occur on
inle lake (http://inlelake-
myanmar.com). This is where

Captain Sehgal was finally
captured by the British;
she told me how she was
tracked down by English
planes and that the big chase
took place here in 1945.
Villages tompkins square park

(www.nycgovparks.org). You see
eccentric characters here and its
a vibrant area. Though it used to
be a Ukrainian neighbourhood,
it now has lots of fancy boutiques.
Besides, proposing in a park is
easier on your knees.

parting scene... is the
new york City subway.
I believe that all the train stops

in the city would be effective
spots to set a dramatic farewell.
sequence... would be in the
winding, sloping corridors of

the guggenheim Museum
(www.guggenheim.org). It would
be interesting to choreograph
something around the
Guggenheims extraordinary
architecture. In fact, all the
museumsincluding the
Most recent film:

Barfi! (2012)
assaM
is from guwahati to Jorhat,
ending on Majuli island. You can
stop at the Kaziranga national
park (www.kaziranganational
park.com), sivasagars temples
(http://sivasagar.nic.in) and other

places along the way. Ive done
this road trip before, and it was
also where I met and fell in love
with my wife.
My perfect wedding scene...
will be on a boat along the

brahmaputra river. Weddings
Metropolitan Museum of art
(www.metmuseum.org) and
the Museum of Modern art
(www.moma.org)would make
stunning visual set pieces.
The Guggenheim Museum in

New York City, with its winding,
sloping corridors, would be a great
setting for an epic action sequence
New Yorks
Guggenheim Museum
anurag basu
Majuli island
of all sizes take place in the

rooftop lounges of these twostoreyed boats.

would be outside hotel
bellevue, on the banks of
the Brahmaputra.

parting scene... is the
picturesque Majuli. Migratory
birds visit here in January and
February, and the mood is just
right for a touching moment.
sequence... would be shot
in hatigaon on the outskirts
of Guwahati. The area has

a mix of old and new Assamese
architecture and lots of small
lanesgreat for jumping from
one rooftop to another!
got a travel query?

Email us at askCnt@
condenast.in and our panel
of experts will answer it. For
more, www. cntraveller.in
RSVP
Ladies night out
CNT and Grand Hyatt Mumbai

marked 30 years of the groups entry into India
MUMBAI
o commemorate 30 years since American hotel group

Hyatt came to India, Cond Nast Traveller and Farley
Kern, Hyatts VP corporate communications, co-hosted
an elegant dinner party in Mumbai. The guest list was strictly
women-only, and even the raging thunderstorm and traffic
couldnt keep the ladies away from a night of delectable cuisine
at China House in the Grand Hyatt Mumbai. The conversation
ranged from art, design and architecture (including Rajshree
Pathys work-in-progress museum in Coimbatore) to television,
books and fashion (Nishka Lullas playful Fall collection was
a hot topic of discussion), facilitated by some truly great cocktails.
In fact, many of the businesswomen in the crowd found that they
unwound after a hard day in much the same waywith a glass
of wine and an episode of Scandal.
China House, Grand Hyatt Mumbai
Namita Saraf
Hyatts Yasmin Poonegar and Farley Kern
CNTs Sunaina Talwar Khiani

and Rajshree Pathy
Pooja Vir and

Karen Anand
Sarah Jane Dias
Farah Khan
CNTs Divia Thani Daswani

and Ipsita Dasgupta
Devita Saraf
Beate Mauder
and Divya Thakur
Malaika Mahtaney
Hyatts Britta
Leick-Milde
Elsie Nanji and Cond Nasts Oona Dhabhar
Amrita Chowdhury
Mallika Kapur
Rashmi Uday Singh

and Shyamla Nath
Sushama Reddy
and Kaveri Khullar
Nishka Lulla
Ameera Shah
Sravanya Rao
Crystal dumplings with

lotus root and shiitake
Guests enjoying
the drinks
PHOTOGRAPHS: NCN CREATIVES
Hyatts Mariska Fernandes
Fried crab claws with

sweet-chilli sauce
China House bar area
Contest
Where
are you?
This giant installation, inaugurated in 2009,
is a stones throw from a memorial to the
worlds most loved comedian. Located
in a town whose resident invented milk
chocolate, this 26ft-high and 4ft-wide giant
replica has been designed by a prominent
sculptor from Neuchtel. The fork is placed
in the midst of a magical lake, which is one
of the largest in Western Europe. Formed by
a retreating glacier, it has a crescent shape
and is located partly in France and partly
in Switzerlandboth of which know it by
different names. The town in which the fork
is located is also the nerve centre of one of
the worlds most popular chocolate brands
and is a mere hours drive from Switzerlands
second most populous city, which has the
headquarters of many agencies of the
United Nations. Where are you?
aNuShKa PaToDIa
email your answer to whereareyou@

condenast.in and you could win
a three-night stay at anantara Bangkok
riverside resort & Spa, courtesy of the
Tourism authority of Thailand.
See overleaf for detailsand look out for
the answer in our next issue, out in February.
photograph: philippe roy/hemis/Corbis
Contest
Contest
The giant Ferris wheel,
Asiatique Sky, Bangkok.
Right: A view of Wat Pho temple
WIN a three-night holiday in Bangkok
he vibrant Thai capital offers

travellers a host of attractions
and activities. Visit the famous
temples of Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho,
or admire The Grand Palace, the home of
Thai kings for 150 years.
For shopping, go to crazy and colourful
Damnoen Saduak, the citys best-known
floating market, or head to Asiatique
night market, where you can enjoy aerial
views of the city from the giant Ferris
wheel, Asiatique Sky. Bangkok also has
many museums to explorego to the
Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, which
displays Asian fabrics, Thai costumes and
outfits worn by Queen Sirikit.
On your three-night holiday, you will
stay at the Anantara Bangkok Riverside
Resort & Spa. Just a short boat ride away

from Saphan Taksin skytrain station, its
a great base from which to explore the
citys many sights.
To win a three-night stay for two at
Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort &
Spa, identify the location of this issues
Where are you? competition before
1 January 2014. The prize includes
breakfast for two and daily boat transfers
to the skytrain station and Asiatique.
The offer is valid until 1 December
2014. The prize is non-transferable
and cannot be redeemed for cash. For
more information, contact Mr Aso on
tatdel@tat.or.th or visit http://bangkokriverside.anantara.com. Winners will be
announced in CNTs Feb-March issue.
WINNER: OCT-NOV 2013
The winner of Oct/Novs Where Are

You? competition is Rajeetta
Nanggia, who correctly identified
the above picture as being of
Hyderabad in Andhra Pradesh.
She wins a three-night stay at
Trident, Udaipur.
COMPETITION RULES
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ExPErIEncE thE wIld
Wildlife aficionados will love Pugdundee Safaris Denwa Backwater Escape, which is located on Denwa
River in Satpura National Park. Overlooking the mesmerising backwaters of a dam on Denwa River, it
is built on 10 acres of forested land along the river. Across this river lies the national park, which can be
approached by a boat and then by jeeps to go deeper into the forest. Spread over 1,427sq km, the lodge
offers stunning views of the Denwa River, grasslands and rolling Pachmari hills. Satpura National Park is
a unique part of the ecosystem and has fauna such as spotted deer, Indian bisons, tigers, leopards, wild
boars, wild dogs, sloth bears, black bucks, porcupines, sambhars, four-horned antelopes, otters, marsh
crocodiles, Malabar squirrels and langurs. (www.pugdundeesafaris.com)
Plan your East Indian

holiday
Getting to East India has never been so easy.

IndiGos new daily flights now go to Bagdogra
from Bengaluru, Guwahati, Kolkata and Mumbai,
after which you can fly to Darjeeling, Kurseong,
Mirik, Kalimpong and Gangtok to enjoy a truly
rejuvenating break. With 71 brand-new Airbus
A320s operating 448 daily flights and connecting
35 destinations, IndiGo is Indias fastest growing
airline. (www.goindigo.in)
Oriental
delicacies
Savour authentic Chinese food in New Delhi at the

Radisson Blu Hotel Greater Noidas Satin restaurant.
The speciality fine-dining restaurant offers a wide array
of Oriental dishes, including the spicy cooking of the
Sichuan province, Korean, Japanese and Thai delicacies,
along with a host of vegetarian optionsall this at
wallet-friendly prices. (www.radissonblu.com/hotelgreaternoida)
Home
away from
home
Get home-style comforts at Hyatt

Regency Delhis 29 ready-to-movein apartments. Known as Hyatt
Regency Delhi Residence, this
desirable address is ideally located
in the capitals commercial centre.
The 12-storey tower houses 29
well-appointed one (600 sq ft), two
(1,848 and 2,063sq ft) and three
(2,906sq ft) bedroom residences
with private bathrooms, living and
dining areas and open kitchens.
(www.delhi.regency.hyatt.com)
anniversary special
Celebrate with the Radisson Blu MBD Noida, which brings in its 10th
anniversary this year. The hotel will witness a 10-day celebration at its
restaurants and bars, showcasing some of its famed hospitality and
innovation. With 127 well-appointed guest rooms and suites as well as a
wide array of Indian and international food on offer, this is one place you
wont easily forget. (www.radissonblu.com/hotel-noida)
Bring in
2014 in Taipei
This year, Taiwan is the place to be for

New Years Eve. Taipei 101s fireworks
show was chosen by CNN as one of
the top 10 destinations in the world
to bring in the New Year. Watch the
fireworks display from Sun Yat-sen
memorial hall, Daan Park, Maokong or
Elephant and Tiger Mountains. Then
travel to other parts of Taiwan, where
cities have pop concerts and events to
celebrate 2014. (eng.taiwan.net.tw)
On
the
go
Dubai caLLing
Book a stay at the Armani Hotel Dubai this year-end for some truly
spectacular offers and experiences. Dine at the hotels Armani/
Ristorante where specials include a Christmas Package and a New
Year Package. The six-course degustation menus showcase the
very essence of Italian gastronomy by chef Alessandro Salvatico. If
youre the type to party it up, head to Armani/Prive nightclub, where
Italian glamour inspires a night of fun at The Great New Years Eve
Party. Enjoy the rhythmical beats of the resident DJ and a hip crowd
of international celebrities and the emirates social trendsetters for

the party of the season. Need to relax and rejuvenate after a wild
evening out? Kick back at the Armani Hotel Dubais Armani/Spa.
The spas Scent of the Season package features a skin exfoliation
treatment and head-to-toe pressure point massage, while the
Festive Indulgence package has an entire day of spa indulgence,
including a full body exfoliation, an 80-minute hot stone massage,
body wrap and customised facial. (www.ahdspecialexperience.com)
Lifes a beach
in Odisha
If you thought Odisha was only famous for

the Puri temples and olive ridley turtles,
think again. The state has some of the
most pristine beaches in the country.
Blessed with a 500km-long coastline,
its major beaches include Gopalpur,
Puri, Chandipur and Chandrabhaga,
and minor ones include Aryapalli,
Astaranga, Balaramgadi, Balighai,
Baliharachandi, Beleswar, Paradeep,
Pati-Sonapur, Ramchandi, Talasari. Mustvisit experiences here include seeing
Hindu pilgrims take a dip in the waters
off Puri beach, going to the Sun Temple
of Konark, then relaxing on the nearby
Chandrabhaga beach, and enjoying
the hide-and-seek game of the sea at
Chandipur beach, where the sea water
recedes away from the shoreline to the
extent of 5km twice a day. You can see the
sea literally vanishing before your eyes
and coming back rhythmically at regular
intervals. (www.orissatourism.gov.in)
An All-new cruise holidAy

Looking to go on a luxurious cruise vacation this festive season? Then
book one with Regent Seven Seas Cruises. The cruise companys Seven
Seas Voyager ship has now been unveiled with dramatic and stylish new
interiors. Radiating a new sense of warmth, the ships public spaces now
feature elegant new furnishings, rich upholstery, custom-milled
carpeting and hand-selected accents. From the bold yet soothing tones
of the Observation Lounge, to the inviting sophistication of Horizons,
every area exudes a sense of style and elegance. The all-suite ships
Penthouse Suites have custom-crafted elegant furnishings, plush

carpeting, curtains, wall coverings, furniture, lighting, original artwork
and outdoor furniture. And when it comes to meals, it cant get any
better than this. Choose from gourmet restaurants including Compass
Rose, serving a variety of European-inspired Continental cuisine; Prime
7, a contemporary American steakhouse; Signatures, a classic French
restaurant; and Sette Mari at La Veranda, which offers an extensive
menu of authentic Italian specialties. (www.rssc.com)
A christmas to
remember
Get a truly unforgettable holiday experience with

Leading Hotels of the Worlds many hotels. Choose
from a wide range of options, including The Greenwich
Hotel in New York City, Halekulani in Waikiki, The
Rittenhouse in Philadelphia, Hotel Fouquets Barrire in
Paris, Carlton Hotel St Moritz and Palace Hotel Tokyo,
each of which offer unique Christmas experiences, to
create cherished memories. (www.lhw.com)
The lap of luxury
Bring the New Year in in style with Radisson Blu Plaza, Delhi,
where you get a choice of rejuvenating spa treatments
as well as a grand New Years Eve reception and dinner
designed to touch all five senses. Whether you want just a
room and dinner; a room, dinner and New Year brunch; or
a room, dinner, New Year brunch and spa treatment, you
can choose from the options offered by the hotel. (www.
radissonblu.com/hotel-newdelhi)
FASHION
Burberry: Mumbai 022 4080
1994, New Delhi 011 4652 9850,
Bengaluru 080 4173 8826
Corneliani: Mumbai 022 6631
1303, New Delhi 011 4604 0722
Ermenegildo Zegna: Mumbai
022 2284 4000, New Delhi 011
4606 0999
Fendi: New Delhi 011 4604
0777
Gucci: Mumbai 022 6747
2435, New Delhi 011 4653 6667
Louis Vuitton: Mumbai 022
6664 4134 Bengaluru 080 4246
0000
Michael Kors: New Delhi 011
4056 3704
Ragini Ahuja: Mumbai 022
2605 2509
Shift by Nimish Shah:

Mumbai 022 2368 4462, New
Delhi 011 2664 5490
Tods: New Delhi 011 4666
2700 TOM FORD: New Delhi
011 4103 3059
Viange: Mumbai 098200
80195
Zara: Mumbai 022 4347
3852, New Delhi 011 4105 7414
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
Anmol Jewellers: Mumbai
022 6129 6129
Baume et Mercier: Mumbai
022 2651 5757, New Delhi 011
3294 5554
Breguet: New Delhi 011 4164
6766, Chennai 044 2846 4095,
Kolkata 033 2282 0626
Calvin Klein: Bengaluru
080 2206 7775 Cartier: New

Delhi 011 4678 8888 Chopard:
Mumbai 022 2288 4757, New
Delhi 011 4666 2834 Corum:
New Delhi 011 6808 6800
Forevermark: Mumbai 022
6133 3444, New Delhi 011
2462 2377
Jaquet Droz: New Delhi
011 4151 3110, Bengaluru 080
4113 0611
Longines: Mumbai 022 6743
9853, New Delhi 011 4909
2800
Nirav Modi: Mumbai 022
6752 2000
OMEGA: Mumbai 022
6655 0351, New Delhi 011
4058 8770, Bengaluru 080
4098 2106
Officine Panerai: Mumbai 022

2288 5052, New Delhi 011
4151 3121
Piaget: Mumbai 022 2202
3388, New Delhi 011 4666 2811
Rolex: Mumbai 022 2651
5757, New Delhi 011 4676 7777
World Gold Council: www.
azvavows.com
MISCELLANEOUS
Brunello Cucinelli: www.
brunellocucinelli.com
Etro: Mumbai 022 4341 2284,
Bengaluru 080 4173 8973
GANT: http://us.gant.com
Lancel: Paris +33 1 5689
1570
Tumi: Mumbai 022 6615
2295, New Delhi 011 4058
2318
illustrations: himanshu lakhwani; radhika maheshwari

photographs: brian a. vikanver, julian calder/cOrbis; frederic sOltan/cOrbis
prices and availability of products and services by the following brands were checked at
the time of going to press, but we cannot guarantee that the prices will not change or that
specific items will be in stock when the magazine is published.
That was then

Woody Allen and Diane
Keaton admire New
Yorks 59th Street Bridge
Woody Allens Manhattan 1979

phoTograph: UNITED ARTISTS/THE KOBAL COLLECTION/HAMILL, BRIAN
Jonathan Bastable relives the defining film moments that have inspired many to travel
hirty-five years have passed since

the release of Manhattan, Woody
Allens monochrome love letter
to his hometown. That film was many
peoples first introduction to the special
charms of New York, or at least to Allens
sentimental, romantic vision of the place.
Millions of filmgoers who had never been
within a thousand miles of the Big Apple
came away thinking that they had been
to The Russian Tea Room, or knew the
bench where potential lovers sit sideby-side till dawn and watch the lights
on the 59th Street Bridge.
Some films can do this: become
the defining portrait of a city. Gene
Hackman, chasing drug dealers around
Marseille, sketched out a seedy mental
map of that town which is hard to shake
off. It is likely to stick in your mind
even as you are enjoying a decidedly

upmarket bowl of bouillabaisse in Chez
Fonfon, where the opening moments of
The French Connection were shot. The
Bridges of Madison County inspired
a lot of people to flick through the atlas
to see if Iowa had an airport. And, for
a while at least, the Paris that everyone
wanted to know was the Paris of Amlie:
a closed fantasy world of art deco cafs
and magical train stations.
The geographical backdrop neednt
even be part of the story: lots of punters
emerged from the brain-numbing Lord
of the Rings trilogy thinking only: New
Zealand looks amazingI had no idea
And at least half of the passengers who
ride The Jacobite steam train over the
Glenfinnan viaduct do so out of an
obsession with the imaginary Hogwarts
of Harry Potter rather than a fascination

with the real and historical Scotland.
You dont have to be a film buff to
be caught up in this false familiarity.
There must surely be people who go
to Petra in Jordan and dont know
why they feel as if they have been
there beforeuntil realising that its
magnificent, carved faade appeared
in that old Indiana Jones flick. And our
detached form of acquaintance with
faraway places has a peculiar flipside.
Too often we know very well what
we are going to see before we get to
a place. So we cant look at the Statue of
Liberty or the red Kremlin wallsor
indeed the Hollywood sign above LA
without the oddest sensation that we
are playing a role in some movie of our
own devising.
Room with a view

TANZANIA
North Camp, andBeyond Ngorongoro Crater Lodge
Suite 5
PHOTOGRAPH: DOOK
magine what Mount Kilimanjaro would look like if it spectacularly

imploded. Struggling? Then take a look at Tanzanias Ngorongoro
Crater, the worlds largest, intact, unflooded caldera (a cauldronlike, collapsed volcano), which may have been formed from a mountain
even higher than Kili. North Camp is modelled on a traditional mudand-thatch Maasai homestead and, as you see from the rooftops just
below the treeline, the huts blend into the landscape beautifully. Down
in the crater, 60,000 Maasai pastoralists graze their cattle alongside
one of the worlds densest wildlife populations, with about 25,000
mammals inhabiting the 260sq km crater floor. Highlights include
endangered black rhinos, big-tusked elephants, black-maned lions
and more than 600 spotted hyenas. FRANCESCA SYZ
CONTACT Ngorongoro Crater (+27 11 809 4300; www.
andbeyondafrica.com) Suites from US$1,000 (`62,500)
THE WORLD IS OUR HOME

YOU ARE OUR GUEST
KATRINA KAIF TELLS

COND NAST TRAVELLER
WHY ETIHAD IS HER
AIRLINE OF CHOICE.
For me, travelling is downtime. I like to catch up on

sleep, watch a movie or two on a huge TV and eat
only when Im in the mood. Privacy is essential.
Thats why I love the private suite thats guaranteed
in Diamond First Class. Nothing is better than being
able to close the doors and enjoy my own exclusive
sanctuary in the sky.
On the ground, its always reassuring that someone
else sorts out a complimentary chauffeur to get me
to the airport on time. If I need a massage between
flights, its great to have a fully-qualified therapist
on hand to give me an energising treatment at a
Six Senses Spa.
I travel a lot and theres only one airline in the
world that can give me all this Etihad Airways.
CONTENTS
25
5 SO PaulO
6 abu Dhabi
10 bElgraDE
AMAZING
12 ShaNghai
16 lOS aNgElES
18 gENEva
places to go to this year
22 bEiruT
24 ChiCagO
omething about the end of a year and the start of a new one
gets me thinking about the places Ive been toand all the
places still remaining on my bucket list. How did we come up
with this list of 25 amazing destinations to visit? We simply did an
informal poll. Its certainly telling what sort of holiday appeals to
a personI would, personally, be delighted to watch the Super Bowl
in New York but I doubt I would sign up to dive in the MS Zenobia
shipwreck off the coast of Larnaca in Cyprus (my colleagues, on
the other hand, are plotting to do so, as I write). And when I had the
chance to go to Brazil earlier this year, I chose to visit Rio de Janeiro
and the Amazon and skip So Pauloa decision that now fills me
with dismay. Travellers regret is a dreadful condition, and I seem to live with it permanently.
(How could I have left Geneva without trying a gruyre-stuffed paratha? Why did Anish Kapoors
public installation open in Chicago after Id already left? Why did Orhan Pamuk open his
museum just a year after I had holidayed in Istanbul?)
Of course, I counted how many of the 25 places listed here Ive already visited (as will you, no
doubt), and my answer is 13a number so slight that I have vowed to rectify this immediately.
Suddenly, reading about Dsseldorfs cutting-edge art scene and Belgrades mix of old and new
have placed both cities firmly on my to-do list. The world is large and there are many more than
25 places to visitbut heres a taste of where we are thinking about. Safe travels, and write us
a postcard. Remember, theres no greater travellers regret than staying put and going nowhere.
25 amSTErDam
28 JOhaNNESburg
30 milaN
34 SEyChEllES
36 TOrONTO
37 PariS
38 SyDNEy
40 DSSElDOrf
42 aThENS
43 larNaCa
44 marrakECh
46 NEw yOrk CiTy
48 DubliN
50 iSTaNbul
52 mOSCOw
53 maNChESTEr
54 waShiNgTON, DC
Divia Thani Daswani Editor
THe cover
Camel ride in the Liwa Desert,
United Arab Emirates.
Photograph by Dan Kullberg
editorcntraveller@condenast.in
twitter/diviathani
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cHairMan anD cHieF execUtiVe, conD naSt internationaL LtD. Jonathan Newhouse
photograph: farrOkh ChOThia
aD SaLeS coorDinator Priyanka Gadoya | aSSiStant aD SaLeS Manager Sahil Menghani
SO PAULO
MaxiMuM Metropolis
photograph: MARTIN ADOLFSSON/GALLeRySTOcK
All roads lead to Brazil, host of the

2014 FIFA World Cup. And while
the matches take place across
this fantastic country, from sunkissed Rio de Janeiro to Manaus,
the entryway to its Amazonian
rainforest, the true birthplace of
football in Brazil is the dazzling
city of So Paulo.
But thats only one excuse
to visit. More significantly, the
bustling metropolis of two
crore people is experiencing
a renaissance of sorts: towering
skyscrapers are coming up at
a dizzying pace; restaurants,
cafs, galleries, nightclubs and
bars are springing up on every
street corner; the music, theatre

and art scene is more vibrant
than ever, thanks to an influx of
immigrants from Portugal, Spain,
Bolivia and even Africa. As for
fashion, well, this is easily the
most stylish city in South America.
Go now, and youll still be able to
experience So Paulos edgy side.
LOOK OUT FOR: The excellent
sushiSo Paolo is home to
more than 18 lakh ethnic Japanese.
And dont leave without sampling
a sakerinha, a Japanese take on
Brazils national drink, the caipirinha,
made with rice wine instead of the
sugar cane-based cachaca.
For more, www.visitbrazil.com.
01
BRAZIL
So Paulo by night
02
UNITED ARAB
EMIRATES
AbU DhAbi
Authentic ArAbiAn Adventure
photographs: DAN KULLbERG; PETER MULLER/cULTURA/cORbis
Just a short flight away, Abu

Dhabi is the perfect family holiday
destination. While adults will enjoy
the 20-plus adrenaline-pumping
rides at Ferrari World Abu Dhabi
(www.ferrariworldabudhabi.com)
as much as the little ones, the real
treasures of this unique emirate
are to be found in its seemingly
endless, untouched expanse of
desert. Here, there are plenty of
opportunities to have children
discover and experience distinctive
activities such as horseback riding
and desert camps and safaris, only
a short distance from the city.
The Arabian Wildlife Park
(www.desertislands.com) on Sir
Bani Yas Island, for instance, is
home to more than 10,000 freeroaming animals, so youre almost
guaranteed sightings of Arabian
oryx, gazelles, caracals, giraffes,
hyenas and cheetahs. Animallovers can also sign up for a tour
of a falcon hospital and camel
marketboth experiences that
are unique to the region.
As a family, youll also enjoy

activities such as dune bashing,
sand skiing and sand boarding
over the amazing red sand dunes
of the Liwa Oasis. No experience
is required; instructors and guides
are readily available through most
hotels. Just remember to dress
in comfortable clothing and wear
sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses.
Of course, no trip to Abu
Dhabi is complete without a visit
to the iconic Sheikh Zayed Grand
Mosque (www.szgmc.ae). An
architectural delight, it features
82 domes and 24ct gold-gilded
chandeliersthe largest of which
is 50ft high and weighs 12 tonnes!
Even little children will appreciate
its dazzling beauty and open space.
Go on the Sunset Tour at 5pmits
the perfect time to take Facebookfriendly photographs and enjoy
the evening breeze and tranquillity.
LOOK OUT FOR: The all-new
2.35 lakh sq ft Yas Mall, which
opens its doors in March.
For more, http://visitabudhabi.ae.
A camel ride in the Liwa

Desert. Opposite: Sheikh Zayed
Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi
dec-Jan 2013-14 cond nast traveller 7
YOU ARE OUR GUEST
Look forward to the sort of relaxed, deep sleep in the air youd usually only expect on the
ground. We guarantee fully-flat beds with direct aisle access in Pearl Business Class on all
long-haul flights. When you fl y Diamond First Class, retire behind the doors of a private
suite, in a luxurious leather 6 foot 8 inch bed with a turndown service.
Why do we go to such lengths? Because you are our guest.
03
off EuropEs bEatEn path

If youre looking to explore a lesserknown (and affordable) side of Europe,
head to Belgrade in Serbia, where things
are changing just enough to make it
exciting and worthwhile, but not so
much as to make it lose its unique
character and beauty.
Were great fans, for instance, of
Square Nine (www.squarenine.rs),
a chic boutique hotel that opened
its doors in 2012. The building fits
seamlessly into the Old Town, but it
boasts of sleek details such as onyx
sinks, vintage chairs and a Sisley spa.
The Kalemegdan (Belgrade
Fortress) is a must-see, and the artsy
Skadarlija Street is great to spend
an afternoon exploring. The Belgrade
Design District, in the heart of the city,
showcases fashion, accessories, furniture
and jewellery made by local artists.
There are architectural gems and
historical monuments across Belgrade,
but if you want to spend time by the
water, go to Beton Hala (www.betonhala.
com). A long-abandoned warehouse, it

has now been transformed into a hub of
entertainment, with cafs, restaurants,
bars and clubsand even a gym.
Cantina de Frida (www.cantina
defrida.com) offers tapas and cocktails;
Iguana (www.iguana.rs) has live jazz;
and Comunale (www.comunale.rs) is
the best choice, not only for its Italian
food but also for its stylish patrons,
a mix of ladies who lunch and suits
talking shop over Serbian wine.
Alfresco dining is an option during
summertimeand recommended so
you can enjoy a view of the cyclists and
joggers running along the riverside.
Dont forget to sample rakia, Serbias
national drink, a brandy made of fruit.
LOOK OUT FOR: The birthplace of
Constantine the Great, Nis is Serbias
third-largest city. Lying 240km south
of Belgrade and accessible via Kosovo
as well as Bulgaria, its full of crumbling
but romantic ruins.
For more, www.tob.rs.
photograph: ImAgE SOURcE/cORBIS
SERBIA
BELgRAdE
Belgrade and the

Danube River
CHINA
M1NT restaurant, Shanghai.

Opposite: A view from Park
Hyatt Shanghai
SHANGHAI
THE CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS
If youre going to Shanghai on
business, make sure you stay the
weekend. This truly is a city that
doesnt sleepand no wonder. The
nightlife here is vibrant, offering
everything from sophisticated
lounges to pulsing nightclubs full of
Champagne Sparklers and hip DJs.
Bar Rouge (www.bar-rougeshanghai.com) is a classic
favourite with an airy terrace that
attracts well-heeled expats and
locals, while Long Bar (www.
waldorfastoriashanghai.com) at
the Waldorf Astoria Shanghai on
the Bund embodies the glamour
of 1920s Shanghai. Muse (www.
museshanghai.com) has two dance
floors, while M1NT (www.m1ntglobal.
com) boasts a 55ft shark tank.
And when you finally call it

a night, cap it all off with fried rice
off the street as the Shanghainese
door go to one of the numerous
massage parlours that stay open
until the wee hours of the morning
and indulge in a rose-scented
footbath. When it comes to raising
the bar, this city is serious.
LOOK OUT FOR: The simple
40-minute, high-speed train that will
take you to Hangzhou, where the
Emperors once holidayed in tranquil
gardens. Catch a sensational light and
sound performance on the West Lake
and the all-new HDM Gallery (http://
hdmgallery.com), which showcases
Chinas most exciting contemporary
artists working in all media.
For more, www.tourismchina.org.
PHOTOGRAPHS: JASPER JAMES
04
YOU ARE OUR GUEST
Step into a world of rejuvenation and emerge refreshed. As our premium guest, you
can indulge in a variety of therapies and treatments at the Six Senses Spas in our Etihad
Lounges in Abu Dhabi and London Heathrow. Using only the purest and most natural
skincare products, with plant extracts and flower essences, Six Senses Spa offers guests
a chance to rest, relax and re-energise themselves before their next flight.
05
fit for star-gazers

We asked LAs insiders where
the stars hang out during Oscar
seasonadmit it, a trip to
Hollywood is incomplete without
some serious celebrity spotting.
Start by checking in to either
The Beverly Hills Hotel (www.
dorchestercollection.com) on
Sunset Boulevard or Andr
Balazss Chateau Marmont
(www.chateaumarmont.com)
both attract the A-list crowd on
a regular basis. Then, have your
concierge bag you a table at
a restaurant such as Fig & Olive
(www.figandolive.com), a hit with
Reese Witherspoon and Leonardo
DiCaprio; The Ivy Restaurant
(www.theivyrestaurants.com),
where Jennifer Aniston and George
Clooney have been seen; or Mr
Chow (www.mrchow.com), where
you could bump into Jennifer
Lopez or Madonna.
Next, shop where the stars do.
Kitson (www.shopkitson.com)
and Fred Segal (www.fredsegal.

com) are long-time favourites.
Dont be surprised to see
paparazzi parked outside both
on any given day.
The TCL Chinese Theatre
(www.tclchinesetheatres.com)
is where many movie premieres
occur, but if you want to catch
the stars unguarded (and possibly
with their baby carriages in tow),
head to the Sunday Farmers
Market at Studio City.
LOOK OUT FOR: World-class
art in a variety of incredible spaces,
including the Los Angeles County
Museum of Art (www.lacma.org);
the J Paul Getty Museum (www.
getty.edu); and the Museum of
Contemporary Art, or MOCA
(www.moca.org), as well as some
fantastic architecture, including
the Frank Gehry-designed Walt
Disney Concert Hall.
For more, www.discover
losangeles.com.
photographs: jULIEN cApmEIL
UNITED STATES
LOS ANgELES
The Beverly Hills Hotel.

Opposite: Palm trees in LA
06
Cosmopolitan, ChiC & Child-friendly

Geneva may seem like a spot only for
business travellers, but dont let its
image fool you. Home to just about
two lakh peoplemore than a third of
them foreignersthis is a wonderfully
cosmopolitan destination, full of
waiting treasures.
The Muse dart et dhistoire
(http://institutions.ville-geneve.ch)
has more than 7,000 works on display;
LAutre (www.boutiquelautre.ch)
offers beautiful antiques and vintage
accessories sourced from Europe; and
morning farmers markets in Rive
allow you to choose fresh pasta and
cheeses from a dizzying variety.
But for a truly unique, finedining experience, head to the
Mandarin Oriental Geneva (www.
mandarinoriental.com), where chef
Sandeep Bhagwat delivers an Indian
twist to European foodthe Gruyre
and Vacherin Fribourgeois cheese

naan is a hot favourite.
To party, head to Funky Monkey
Room (www.fmrbar.ch), Genevas
hippest nightclub or to LAtelier
Geneva (www.latelierlounge.ch) for
apple martinis. Children will enjoy
feeding the ducks at the serene
botanical garden and even strawberrypicking at La Fraisire Ferme de
Feuillasse (www.lafraisiere.ch).
Of course, no Swiss experience is
complete without a tasting of fondue
locals love the casual Caf du Soleil
(www.cafedusoleil.ch).
LOOK OUT FOR: Cycles that can be
rented for free for up to four hours in
this environmentally friendly city. Hop
on one and explore either Bernex or
Vallorbe. Dont forget a picnic basket
of Swiss wine, cheese and chocolate.
For more, www.myswitzerland.com.
photograph: DAVID cROOKES
SWITZERLAND
GENEVA
18 Cond nast traveller dec-Jan 2013-14
A view of the city from

Lake Geneva
YOU ARE OUR GUEST
The food in our Diamond First Class is inspired by the worlds finest restaurants. Perhaps
our on-board chef can tempt you with a perfectly aged tenderloin steak, prepared medium
rare? With a galley filled with the freshest fi sh, organic eggs and vegetables, farmed
exclusively for us, please feel free to order off menu.
After all, you are our guest.
07
LEBANON
BEiRUT
Imagine a city by the sea, warmed
by golden sunshine. Imagine its
beautiful peopleolive-skinned
with a taste for French fashion
living with a like theres no
tomorrow attitude that filters into
a festive lifestyle, despite their
troubles. This is Beirut, where
the party (almost) never stops.
Today, the city is drawing more
and more tourists, enamoured
by stories of its vibrant nightlife
and cutting-edge designers.
And theres the foodsouks
full of pine nuts and oak honey;
alfresco establishments having
tables laden with hummus, baklava
and imaginative mezze; and
now, Lebanese wines with their
small but growing fan base and
restaurants experimenting
with French- and Moroccaninfluenced cuisine.
22 Cond Nast Traveller dec-Jan 2013-14
MusicHall (www.themusichall.
com) is a favourite spot to go after
dark and enjoy live musicits
Dubai outpost is also making
waves, but in Beirut, dancing
on the tables is commonplace.
SkyBar (www.sky-bar.com) and
B018 (www.b018.com) nightclubs
are fixtures on the party circuit for
their glamorous crowd.
LOOK OUT FOR: Creations
by Lebanese designers, which
are popular with Hollywoods
A-list crowd for dazzling redcarpet appearances. Elie Saab,
Georges Chakra, Zuhair Murad,
Abed Mahfouz and Reem Acra
all move easily from Paris to LA
and New York, but Beirut is where
their homes, hearts and flagship
boutiques remain.
For more, www.lebanon
tourism.com.
photographs: ROdRigO diAz-WichmANN
The Meds MosT sTylish hoTspoT
Indigo on the Roof restaurant

at Le Gray hotel. Opposite:
A bar on Rue Gouraud in
the Gemmayzeh area
United states
CHiCaGO
Capital of Contemporary Cool
Barack and Michelle Obama
certainly boosted Chicagos
popularity, but the Windy City has
been steadily climbing the charts of
hip for a few years nowindeed, its
ambitions are running as high as
its skyscrapers.
Forget deep-dish pizza; this is
the home of fabulously inventive
cuisine at restaurants such
as the high-end Alinea (www.
alinearestaurant.com), where
even the chocolate dessert comes
deconstructedand spread over
your table, no plates required; and
Fat Rice (www.eatfatrice.com), with
communal tables and Portuguesemeets-Chinese food, including a
stew of chicken, roast pork, salted
duck, littleneck clams, pickled
raisins and peppers.
Hotels are becoming bastions
of hip as well. The James Chicago
(www.jameshotels.com) houses
David Burkes Primehouse,
which bagged Food and Wines
Best Burger in the US and Chicago
magazines best steakhouse.
Theres Ian Schragers PuBliC
Chicago (www.publichotels.com),
where the legendary Pump Room,
A view of the 1,130ft-high

John Hancock Center from
the citys tallest building,
Willis (formerly Sears) Tower
which once hosted celebrities

such as Marilyn Monroe and Frank
Sinatra, has been newly fitted
out. The annual music festival
lollapalooza (www.lollapalooza.
com) is now more than 20 years
old, but still getting bigger and
better. Last August, more than three
lakh people gathered in downtown
Chicagos Grant Park to watch
bands such as Mumford & Sons and
The Cure perform live over three
frenzied days.
LOOK OUt FOR: Celebrated
artist Anish Kapoors public
sculpture Cloud Gate, which
sits pretty in Millennium Park.
Nicknamed The Bean, its an
engineering marvel, made from
welding together 168 polished
stainless steel plates. From the
outside, its seamless. You can walk
around and underneath it, and
watch your distorted reflections
multiply. According to Kapoor, it
draws in the sky and surrounding
buildingsa horizontal object in
a vertical city. You wont want to
miss a chance to see it for yourself.
For more, www.choose
chicago.com.
photograph: niKOLas KOeniG
08
09
THE NETHERLANDS
AmSTERDAm
photographs: mATTHEw bUcK;

ATLANTiDEPHOTOTRAvEL/cORbiS
king of design
With the recent reopening of
both Rijksmuseum (www.
rijksmuseum.nl) and the
Stedelijk Museum (www.
stedelijk.nl), Amsterdam is
abuzz with activity and creative
juice. On display are Old Masters
such as Rembrandt and Frans
Hals as well as Matisse and
Chagall, alongside quirky
collections of silver, dolls houses,
teapots and video art. Butand
this is the real charm of this
cityyou dont even need to
enter a museum to witness the
Netherlands devotion to design.
Its everywhere.
The innovative stores and
cafs all seem to double up as
galleries: theres Moooi (www.
moooi.com), where the worldrenowned Marcel Wanders
shows his eclectic lamps and
vases. At The Frozen Fountain
(www.frozenfountain.nl), youll
find ceramics, wooden furniture
and felt carpets.
And the fashion scene is

equally excitingin addition
to labels such as Rem
Koolhaas, Frans Molenaar
and Viktor&Rolf, dont miss
Jan Jansens sculpted
shoes and Hester van
Eeghens bold briefcases.
Where else in the world
would you find a Museum
of Bags and Purses (www.
tassenmuseum.nl)? And
another dedicated to
spectacles? Simply walking
around and spotting the sleek,
contemporary spaces among
the citys well-maintained
historical faades is a delight.
LOOK OUT FOR:

Amsterdams De Wallen
district. Once known as the
red-light district, it is now where
an enterprising group of young
designers have started exhibiting
their fashion and accessories.
For more, www.iamsterdam.
com.
Clockwise from top left: Cyclists in Amsterdam; Moooi design

boutique and gallery; a photograph by Inez van Lamsweerde
& Vinoodh Matadin at an Amsterdam gallery
dec-Jan 2013-14 Cond nast Traveller 25
YOU ARE OUR GUEST
Whether its a 2003 Chteau Laroque with its intense berry fruit, a buttery Meursault
or the most distinctive Champagnes, our sommeliers ensure we only serve the finest
wines from around the world. Our pleasure is sharing delicious discoveries whenever
you fly with us. Are our efforts worth it? We think so.
After all, you are our guest.
10
A pride of lions
in Johannesburg
photograph: GAllO ImAGeS/CORBIS
SOUTH AFRICA
JOHANNESBURG
A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE
Joburg gets a bad rep in the
mediaand not enough attention
to its hip, arty, cultural side, which
happens to be thriving.
The place to go to these
days is called Maboneng (www.
mabonengprecinct.com), which
translates as place of light.
Once a dilapidated, derelict area
of town avoided even by locals, its
many factories and warehouses
have increasingly been converted
into cool galleries, boutiques, cafs
and restaurantsand the place
artists come to live, work and hang
out. Public art is everywhereso
much so that you can sign up for
art walks taking in the numerous
murals and sculptures.
Arts on Main (http://
artsonmain.info), one of
Mabonengs most prominent
constructions, houses many
galleries and stores, including
the Love Jozi/Black Coffee
boutique, full of witty t-shirts
and superb designer wear. The
Bioscope (www.thebioscope.co.za)
cinema shows everything from
Khumba to independent films and
documentaries, but its focus is on
highlighting the rich, creative talent
in Johannesburg.
Listen to live jazz at Pata Pata
(Maboneng Precinct, Fox Street),
where the menu offers simple wraps
and burgers in addition to Africaninspired dishes. Little Addis (+27
82 683 8675) is another gem, where
the chef conjures up platters of
injera (Ethiopian flatbread) with
spicy meat and vegetables.
LOOK OUT FOR: A non-clichd
souvenir of Johannesburg.
David Krut Publishing (www.
davidkrutpublishing.com) in
Arts on Main has books on
contemporary South African art
and architecture, including a series
of monographs by artists such
as Sandile Zuzu and Mmakgabo
Mmapula Mmankgato Helen Sebidi.
For more, www.joburg
tourism.com.
11
ITALY
MILAn
How do you fit a guide to Italys most

style-obsessed city in anything less
than a coffee-table book? Here are
the unmissables: go to the Duomo
di Milano (www.duomomilano.it),
a Gothic-style cathedral in the heart
of Milan to pay your respects before
heading to Via Montenapoleone (www.
viamontenapoleone.org), the citys
favourite shopping destination in its
Quadrilatero dOro rectangle. Youll find
Italys most successful brandsGucci,
Prada, Roberto Cavalli, D&G, Versace,
Valentinolined up to greet you.
Do as the Milanese do, and stop
for an espresso (no cappuccino after
breakfast, please, if you want to blend
in) at the chic Caffe Baglioni (www.
baglionihotels.com) on Via Della Spiga.
Then, continue your pilgrimage to 10
Corso Como (www.10corsocomo.
com), a concept store that first opened
in 1990 on a former industrial site, and
is now an icon of style in itself. It also
boasts a caf and a hotelbut booking

in advance is highly recommended.
For an encounter with Giorgio
Armani (or at least a brush with his
restrained aesthetic), we suggest either
checking into his sleek, sexy hotel
(http://milan.armanihotels.com)
it has a buzzing bar, pretty people
walking through its lobby and a Nobu
restaurantor visiting Teatro Armani,
a former Nestl factory converted
into a theatre with Japanese architect
Tadao Ando. For one last dash of
culture before you hit the stores again,
visit the Triennale di Milano (www.
triennale.org), Italys first permanent
design museum.
LOOK OUT FOR: The outlet stores
dotted around Milan, where many big
brands sell fashion and accessories
from last season at never-seen-before
prices. Just keep in mind that all sales
are final.
For more, www.tourism.milan.it.
photographs: STeFAnO ScATA
the fashion capital
The Gucci store in Milan.

Opposite: Duomo di Milano
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Australasia Network
MAP KEY
November 2013
Etihad Destinations
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WORLDWIDE ROUTE NETWORK

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AtlANtIDE PhOtOtrAvEl/COrbIs
12
INDIAN OCEAN
SeycheLLeS
Sun, Sand & celebritieS

The Seychelles is a group of 115
islands off the coast of Africa.
A honeymooners paradise, it
boasts sandy, white beaches
and clear-blue waters. But if you
thought thered be little else to
do but laze around, sunbathe and
read in a hammock, think again.
The islands offer a plethora of
activities and watersports, ideal
for an energetic holidayand its
now easy to move between the
main islands (Mah, La Digue and
Praslin) as well. A fast catamaran
service is reliable and cheaper than
flying, but you could also opt for the
high life and rent a yacht or a private

helicopter instead. The Seychelles
also boasts two UNESCO World
Heritage Sites and a stunning
variety of tropical flora and fauna.
Nature-lovers must visit
the Valle de Mai Nature
Reserve on Praslin and Veuve
Nature Reserve on La Digue
to understand the untouched
environment better. Divers and
snorkellers can enjoy sightings of
sea turtles, manta rays, eagle rays
and tiger sharksa glass-bottom
boat is available for those who
prefer to stay dry.
And speaking of staying dry,

the Seychelles is home to a number
of stunning resorts, almost all of
which can organise bike tours of
the islands, hiking, kite-surfing and
horseback riding as well as providing
facilities for golf, tennis, badminton,
squash and other sports.
LOOK OUT FOR: Celebrity
couples on a romantic getaway
in a luxury resort like Fregate
Island. The Duke and Duchess of
Cambridge came here on their
honeymoon, as did Salma Hayek
and Francois-Henri Pinault.
For more, www.seychelles.travel.
North East Point Beach on

Mah island, Seychelles
dec-Jan 2013-14 cond nast traveller 35
CANADA
A view of Torontos skyline

from Centre Island
Toronto is one of the safestand

most livablecities in the world. And
its no wonder: lots of parks, stunning
architecture, great infrastructure,
a diverse populationwhats not to like?
If youre visiting, we suggest planning
your trip around one of Torontos many
annual festivals. The line-up is impressive,
featuring everything from athletics to
music to theatre and more. Literary buffs
will enjoy the International Festival
of Authors (http://ifoa.org) in the fall
(in 2013, Stephen King and Margaret
Atwood attended), with an 11-day
calendar of readings and discussions.
The Hot Docs Canadian International
Documentary Festival (www.hot
docs.ca) in April is North Americas
largest, and screens more than 150
documentaries from across the world.
Photographers should go in May
to time their trips with CONTACT
Photography Festival (http://scotia
bankcontactphoto.com), a month-long
festival across 200 venues in Toronto.
In June, the TD Toronto Jazz

Festival (http://torontojazz.com)
ensures youll find jazz music
everywhere, from small cafs to large
halls. And July brings the Toronto
Fringe Festival (http://fringetoronto.
com) for those who enjoy experimental
theatre, as well as a food festival
featuring more than 150 restaurants.
Finally, the renowned Toronto
International Film Festival (http://tiff.
net), or TIFF, the worlds largest public
film festival, screens 300-plus films
from around the world every September.
In 2013, celebrities there included
Benedict Cumberbatch, Colin Firth,
Nicole Kidman and Brad Pitt.
LOOK OUT FOR: The all-new
Ripleys Aquarium of Canada (www.
ripleyaquariums.com), where youll find
15,000 or more aquatic animals. Located
next to the CN Tower, the aquarium
offers kids day camps, educational
programmesand sleepovers.
For more, www.seetorontonow.com.
photograph: jessiCA sAmpLe
13
TORONTO
Festival city
Paris
SweetS for your Sweetheart
photograph: aLisTair TayLOr-yOUng
Ah Paris! Is there any place in the

world more perfectly designed for
lovers? Of course, you must visit
the Eiffel Tour, and take in the lights
of the Arc de Triomphe, and sit by
the Seine and watch the world go
by. But our favourite pastime in
Paris is, unsurprisingly, eating.
The classic culinary capital of
Europe is full of Michelin-starred,
fine-dining restaurants, perfect for
popping the question. But even
more charming is to spend time
with your loved one in one of the
many cafs and ptisseries found
on virtually every picture-perfect
street. Go to Angelina (226
Rue de Rivoli), as famous for its
Chanel-clad fashionistas as for its
chocolat lAfricain, a divine, thick
hot chocolate. Stohrer (51 Rue
Montorgueil), one of the oldest
ptisseries in the city, was founded
by the pastry chef to Louis XV. Its

best-known dessert is a tribute to
love: the puits damour (wells of
love) are sublime, caramelised puff
pastries oozing with vanilla cream.
The cherry on the top might
well be the macaroons at Ladure
(21 Rue Bonaparte and several
other locations): they come in
a dazzling number of flavours,
as straightforward or complex as
your beloved.
LOOK OUT fOr: Parisian
delicacies that even vegetarians
can enjoy. Breizh Caf (109 Rue
Vieille du Temple) is renowned for
its sumptuous crpes and galettes,
all made with organic produce.
The vendangeurs harvest, for
instance, comes with a creative,
delicious pine-nut filling.
For more, http://france
tourism.com.
14
france
Place de la Concorde
in Paris
15
Fresh fish served at ARIA.

Opposite: A girl by the pool
at Bondi Icebergs Club, Sydney
photographs: jASon LoUcAS
AUSTRALIA
Sydney
home of the masterchefs

Could you possibly arrive in Australia
anymore and not head straight to a
restaurant from the airport? The hit series
MasterChef Australia has us all glued to
our screens, on the edge of our seats
wondering whether a contestant will
finish seasoning and plating his dish
before time runs out.
And Sydney gives you the opportunity
to sample many of the places featured on
the show. Start at Peter Gilmores awardwinning Quay (www.quay.com.au), where
the view of Sydney Harbour and the Opera
House cannot distract from the sublime
taste of the farm-fresh food (save room for
the eight-textured chocolate cake).
Dessert-lovers must head to Adriano
Zumbo at the Star - Pyrmont (www.
star.com.au), where you can choose
from 60 flavours of macaroon, including
salted caramel, passion-fruit and
chocolate brownie.
At guest judge Matt Morans own ARIA

(www.ariarestaurant.com), the salmon
is paired with avocado, vanilla and blood
orangeand thats just an entre. At his
ChISwICk (www.chiswickrestaurant.
com.au), in the suburb of Woollahra, the
focus is once again on responsible, reliable
sourcing: the meat comes from Morans
own farm; the vegetables and herbs from
the kitchen garden. The fish-and-prawn
tagine with couscous is worth the trip to
Australia in itself.
LOOK OUT FOR: The Sydney Fish
Market (www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au),
one of the largest in the world, where you
can sample the freshest fish possible. It
contains a sushi bar, a deli, cooking school
and outdoor seating. Open to all every day
at 7am, its a treat to visit. But get there
at 5.30am to watch the daily wholesale
auctions via a behind-the-scenes tour.
For more, www.australia.com.
Dec-Jan 2013-14 cond Nast traveller 39
16
The surprise arT desTinaTion

Imagine a gigantic art installation
that spans three floors, made entirely
of steel wire nets that you can walk
into and out of, as if making your way
through clouds floating in space. This
is In Orbit, a superbly ambitious work
by Argentinian artist Toms Saraceno,
recently unveiled at Dsseldorfs
K21 Stndehaus museum (www.
kunstsammlung.de). It took more
than three years of collaboration
between engineers, architects and
biologists (its been inspired by
spider webs) to realise, and the
results are spellbinding.
Dsseldorf has more than 26
museums and 100 galleries, a fact
made even more impressive when
you take into account its small size.
The architecture across town is
truly cutting-edge, and includes
gems designed by the likes of Frank
Gehry and William Alsop. The newly
renovated Deutsche Oper am Rhein
(www.rheinoper.de) is well worth a
visit; Benjamin Brittens opera, Death
in Venice, premieres in June 2014.
There is virtually something

for everyone here: cinema lovers
will enjoy the Filmmuseum
Dsseldorf (www.duesseldorf.de);
classical music fans the splendid
performances at the Tonhalle
Dsseldorf (www.tonhalleduesseldorf.de) concert hall; dance
aficionados the Ballett am Rhein
(www.ballettamrhein.de).
LOOK OUT FOR: May-June,
when Dsseldorfs art and culture
festivals kick in. The Schumannfest
(www.schumannfest-duesseldorf.
de) classical music festival is held
once every two years at venues
across the city. The Dsseldorfer
Jazz Rally (www.duesseldorferjazzrally.de) features 80 live bands
and performers. And the Open
Source (http://open-sourcefestival.de) music festival, held in the
Grafenberg racecourse, continues
into some serious clubbing with
house and electro-pop after hours.
For more, www.duesseldorftourismus.de.
photograph: GAbRiELECROppi/siME/4CORNERs
GERMANY
DssELDORF
40 Cond nast Traveller dec-Jan 2013-14
A Frank Gehry-designed
building in Dsseldorf
17
GREECE
AThEns
Clockwise from top left: The Parthenon at the

Acropolis; author and columnist Shobhaa
De in the Plaka district; Greek salad
Yes, of course you must visit

the Acropolis, Erechtheion and
Parthenon, but dont dismiss
everything in this gorgeous
Greek city as ancient.
There are many areas in
the city that boast beautiful,
modern architecture and
a vibe thats trendy and current.
La Boom is one such example.
Back in 2000, filmmaker
Ioannis Petropoulos opened a
theatre which has now become
a magnet for the culturati,
with a nightclub, cinema,
concert hall, restaurant, bar
and bookstore all on-site.
The Monastiraki district
is a magnet for young, local
artists who flock to Booze
Cooperativas (www.booze
cooperativa.com) art gallery,
theatre and cafs, spread
across three levels, as well
as The Exile Room (www.
exileroom.gr) to watch English
documentaries and chat with
the directors post-screenings.
Hidden inside a restored

1930s building is the Andreas
Melas & Helena Papadopoulos
(www.melaspapadopoulos.
com) gallery, which exhibits
many contemporary artists from
Greece, Germany and the United
States. International artists
such as Nan Goldin and Julian
Opie have also shown at the
Rebecca Camhi Gallery
(www.rebeccacamhi.com).
LOOK OUT FOR: The
spectacular Greek beaches
and exquisite resorts within
an hours drive from Athens.
The Astir Palace Resort
(www.astir-palace.com) is
a favouriteit also houses
Matsuhisa Athens (www.
matsuhisaathens.com),
where acclaimed Japanese
chef Nobu Matsuhisa dishes
out his specialities. Even closer
to the city is Voula, where you
can access the public beaches
for a small fee.
For more, www.visitgreece.gr.
photographs: jAmEs bEdFORd; mELvyn LOnGhURsT/CORbis
City by the sea
18
CYPRUS
LARNACA
PHOTOGRAPH: IMAGEBROKER.NET/SUPERSTOCK
A DIVERS PARADISE
Situated on the southern coast
of Cyprus, Larnaca offers a unique
mix of history and adventure.
It is said that Saint Lazarus
came to Cyprus after Jesus
raised him from the dead. The
Church of Saint Lazarus (www.
ayioslazaros.org) was built in
the ninth century to house his
tombit was reconstructed in the
17th century and is now Larnacas
best-known monument and
Cyprus most important surviving
Byzantine structure.
Hala Sultan Tekke (www.
mcw.gov.cy), or the Mosque
of Umm Haram, is situated in
a beautiful garden on the banks
of the Salt Lake and is well worth
a visit. There are many other
historical sights, of course, but
there are also exciting shipwrecks
and marine life to discover. The
Zenobia sank just off the coast
of Larnaca back in 1980, on its
maiden voyage from Sweden
to Syriatoday it makes for
a fantastic underwater expedition.
Experienced divers can venture all
the way into the ill-fated vessels
engine room. But even beginners
will enjoy the blue waters and

plethora of marine life, which
includes shoals of tuna, white
bream, blackfish, barracuda,
sea urchins, rays and starfish. If
diving isnt your thing, there are
many other watersports available,
including windsurfing, jet-skiing,
kite-surfing and sailing. Dont
miss the morning Sea Yoga
on Pervolia or Mazotos beach,
where youll be attempting
asanas on stand-up paddleboards
in the water.
LOOK OUT FOR: The villages
near Larnaca, which offer the
opportunity to experience
a different way of life. In Zygi, for
instance, you can learn traditional
fishing techniques for yourself.
Pyla boasts ancient archaeological
sites and is the only village in
Cyprus where Greeks and Turkish
Cypriots continue to live together.
And from Yerakomoutti (Eagles
nose) point in Voroklini, youll
get a beautiful panoramic view
of the entire Larnaca Bay and
its stunning beaches.
For more, http://larnaka
region.com.
Cape Gkreko
Peninsula, Larnaca
19
Every month seems to offer at

least three new reasons to visit this
gorgeous Moroccan city. There
are high-profile hotel openings
most recently, the Taj Palace
Marrakech (www.tajhotels.com)
and Delano Marrakech (www.
morganshotelgroup.com), worldrenowned DJs flying in to spin for
a fashionable crowd, stunning riads
with billowing curtains, souks bursting
with intricate ceramics and coloured
silks, and of course, mouth-watering
cuisine that combines flavours of the
Middle East and Africa.
There are stunning palaces
and mosques to visit, as well as
art galleries and museums, the
Old City and chic new boutiques.
Les Bains de Marrakech (www.
lesbainsdemarrakech.com) is
a spa centre situated at the doors of
the Medina, and offers treatments
including an authentic hammam,
shiatsu and water massageall in a

setting straight out of Arabian Nights.
If you have the time, venture out of
the city and into the stunning Atlas
Mountains, where you can ride horses
and camp in the pristine desert.
If time isnt on your side,
explore the small villages on the
citys outskirts for a taste of quiet,
peaceful life. Grace Marrakech
(www.gracehotels.com) in
Tamesloht oozes luxury with its
private helipad, heated pool and
lavish suites with personal chefs.
LOOK OUT FOR: The Marrakech
International Film Festival (http://
en.festivalmarrakech.info). In 2012,
everyone from Shah Rukh Khan
to Amitabh Bachchan and Sridevi
were spotted here. This year, Sanjay
Leela Bhansalis Ram-Leela, starring
Deepika Padukone and Ranveer
Singh, will open the festival.
For more, www.visitmorocco.com.
photographs: CaTheRine WesseL; Gs/GaLLeRysTOCK
MOROCCO
MaRRaKeCh
city of exotic treats
Mustapha Blaouis
interiors shop in
Marrakech. Opposite:
Koutoubia Mosque
20
where SportS fanS unite

Is there ever a bad time to visit New
York City? Certainly not in 2014,
and especially not if youre a fan of
American football. (Dont confuse this
with soccer unless youre prepared
for a major showdown.)
This time, the iconic Super Bowl
moves to the MetLife Stadium (www.
metlifestadium.com)home of both
the New York Giants and Jets teams.
The last NFL Championship game
played in the region was in 1962, when
the Green Bay Packers beat the Giants
at Yankee Stadium. Fans are well
advised to buy heavy winter jackets
(the games run in February and snow

is not uncommon) and save upthe
best tickets have more than doubled
in price, from US$1,250 ( 76,755) to
US$3,120 ( 1.91 lakh).
And even if youre not an American
football fan, youll want to watch
it for two reasons. First, the half-time
show, seen on TV by more than
10 crore people in the US alone,
will feature hit artist When I Was
Your Man Bruno Mars. Lets see if
he can top Madonnas recordbreaking 2012 performance.
Second, the commercials, many
of which are specially made for the

game. Last year, a single 30-second
ad cost US$4 million ( 24.5 crore)
to air during the game. (Watch the
Budweiser ads on YouTube if youre
outside the US.)
LOOK OUT FOR: The restaurants,
hotels, bars and clubs running specials
that week, enticing fans with NFLthemed promotions and menus. The
adrenaline is high, the atmosphere
electric and few things get New Yorkers
more excited than rooting for their own
teams on home turf.
For more, www.nfl.com.
photographs: TOM NAGY, GS/GALLERYSTOCK
UNITED STATES
NEw YORK CITY
NYCs Chrysler building.

Opposite: American football
takes centre stage in 2014
21
photographs: jEssIcA sAmpLE
IRELAND
DUbLin
The book-lovers journey
After writing the epic Ulysses, set on the
streets of Dublin, author James Joyce is
said to have remarked: I always write
about Dublin, because if I can get to the
heart of Dublin, I can get to the heart of
all the cities of the world.
Even today, lovers of literature delight
in this Irish city, where books and
authors are revered and respected.
A bibliophiles tour must start with
a look at the Book of Kells (www.tcd.
ie), a ninth-century manuscript that
is illuminated and stored in Trinity
Colleges Old Library. The cavernous
space houses an impressive
collection of two lakh old books
as well as 48 marble busts of famous
philosophers and writers, including
Jonathan Swift.
Joyce fans must also visit the
Martello tower, which appeared in
the first chapter of Ulysses and is now
a museum of old photographs and
letters of the author. Bookshops across
Dublin make wonderful gathering

places for conversations, and The
Winding Stairs (http://windingstair.com) restaurant has the added
bonus of serving local Irish food with
a contemporary twist. Stroll through
the beautiful St Stephens Green park
(www.heritageireland.ie), replete with
ponds and bridges, for a glimpse of
a statue of the gifted poet WB Yeats.
LOOK OUT FOR: The citys exciting
new culinary developments. Have
a meal at celebrity chef Clodagh
McKennasIrelands answer to Nigella
Lawsonnew signature restaurant
(www.clodaghmckenna.com), where
the rib-eye steak is dry aged for 35 days
in Himalayan salt. And at the buzzing
JoBurger (www.joburger.ie), patties
arrive in handmade buns, tortillas or
nude with saladwith toppings ranging
from green Thai curry mayo to peanut
chilli sauce and fresh mango salsa.
For more, www.visitdublin.com.
Road in the Ox Mountains,

Ireland. Opposite: A pint of
Guinness at a pub in Dublin
Dec-jan 2013-14 Cond nast Traveller 49
22
More and more, it seems like Istanbul

is becoming as hip and happening
as London, New York or Shanghai.
But nowhere is Istanbul buzzing
more right now than in the Beyoglu
district. Look out for SALT Galata
(http://saltonline.org), RODEO
(www.rodeo-gallery.com) gallery
and ARTER (www.arter.org.tr)all
art spaces that double up as party
venues. Restaurants such as Gram
(www.gramistanbul.com), Datl
Maya (http://datlimaya.com) and
The House Caf - Ortaky (www.
thehousecafe.com) draw in local
hipsters and in-the-know tourists,
and offer international cuisine made
with the freshest ingredients.
And dont forget to shop for

beautiful furniture and home
accessories at Autoban (http://
autoban212.com), the design firm
that pioneered a contemporary
Turkish aesthetic. Of course, you
cannot leave without visiting (or
revisiting) the classic spots
Istanbuls stunning Hagia
Sophia (www.hagiasophia.com)
museum, the Grand Bazaar
(www.grandbazaaristanbul.org)
for its spices and teas and, of
course, the Blue Mosque, also
known as Sultanahmet (www.
bluemosque.co). Pulitzer Prizewinning author Orhan Pamuks
Museum of Innocence (www.
masumiyetmuzesi.org) is
a noteworthy addition to the
citys cultural scene.
LOOK OUT FOR: The Istanbul
Shopping Festival (www.
istshopfest.com) in June, when
malls across the city go on sale
and you can also enjoy concerts
by local performers and colourful
street processions. And Art
Istanbul (www.artistanbul.org)
and Contemporary Istanbul
(www.contemporaryistanbul.com),
which run parallel to each other
in November, showcase an
exciting, modern side of this
fast-changing metropolis.
For more, www.goturkey.com.
photographs: jULIEn capmEIL
TURKEY
IsTanbUL
classic & cool
50 cond Nast Traveller Dec-Jan 2013-14
Inside Hagia Sophia museum.

Opposite: A view of the Galata
Tower over the Golden Horn
RUSSIA
Curio shopping
Few cities abound with the sort
of weird, eccentric souvenirs that
Moscow does. The most famous
shopping destination for kitschy
trinkets is the market in Izmailovsky
Park (www.izmailovsky-park.
ru), full of babushka dolls, old
Soviet uniforms and aeroplane
paraphernalia. You will also find
traditional woollen items such as
banya (sauna) hats and valenki felt
shoes, as well as lacquer earrings,
replicas of Faberg eggs, old watches,
balalaikas and other musical
instruments. Reproductions of Soviet
memorabilia are most popular with
tourists. If you like your souvenirs
less touristy, stay away.
Head instead to Eliseevsky (www.
eliseevskiy.ru), quite possibly the
most beautiful supermarket on the
planet. Once a palace, the ceilings
soar high above and the massive
chandeliers hang low. You could
The Kremlin, as seen from

Moscows Red Square
spend hours wandering through,

taking in the dazzling deli section
alonefull of local preparations
of borsch, beetroot salad, cutlets in
prazhsky and sturgeon shashlik. The
back room features dozens of varieties
of Russian vodka, perfect to bring
home for friends, as well as caviar.
And, finally, take a long walk
through the GUM (www.gum.ru)
department store, bang in the Red
Square. Dating back to the 1500s,
it is a large, beautiful structure full
of lightand luxury goods galore.
(Legend has it that even during
Soviet rule, the top floor, nicknamed
Section 100, was a secret shopping
destination for Moscows most elite).
LOOK OUT FOR: The small art
exhibits dotting GUM showcase
its fantastic history, such as
the beautiful black-and-white
photographs of 1950s fashion shows.
For more, www.moscow.info.
photograph: JOn HIcKS/cORbIS
23
MOScOw
24
photograph: GB WOOD/ENGLIsh hERITaGE/aRcaID/cORBIs
UNITED
KINGDOM
MaNchEsTER
A photogrAphers delight
Manchester Photographic (www.
manchesterphotographic.com)
takes advantage of its unlikely
location by offering enthusiasts
a range of affordable courses,
focusing on everything from travel
and reportage to rock and pop,
as well as urban and industrial.
(There are even short courses on
iPhoneography and street style.)
Developing an aesthetic eye will
come in handy as you explore the
towns old mills, canals and the
glass-fronted Urbis.
The Manchester Modernist
Society (www.manchester
modernistsociety.org) offers
bespoke architectural walking

tours that showcase historical
buildings at risk. The Victoria Baths
in Longsight are worth taking in, as
is the Royal Exchange and the Daily
Express Buildingthe latter boasts
an art deco style reminiscent of
Londons Fleet Street.
And while there are a surprising
number of galleries and parks,
we know youre really here for
soccer. The Etihad Stadium
(www.mcfc.com) is home to the
Manchester City Football Club,
and also boasts a museum
packed with football memorabilia.
When nobodys playing ball,
the stadium is still busy with

concerts and festivals.
LOOK OUT FOR: Manchesters
incredible number of visiting
performers and artists across
a range of genres. Slated to
appear there in 2014 are massive
pop stars such as Justin Timberlake,
James Blunt, Michael Bubl and
Jason Derulo, as well as comedians
Russell Brand and David Sedaris.
And if retro is more your thing,
look out for Dolly Parton, Michael
Bolton and Heaven is a Place on
Earth singer, Belinda Carlisle.
For more, www.visit
manchester.com.
The John Rylands

Library at the University
of Manchester
dec-Jan 2013-14 Cond Nast traveller 53
UNITED STATES
WAShINgTON, DC
TVs laTesT hoTspoT
The indisputable capital of noir
is what James Wolcott calls
Washington, DC, thanks to a spate
of hit TV shows set in the US
capital. Theres Netflixs House
of Cards, starring Kevin Spacey
as a power-hungry congressman;
Scandal, where Kerry Washington
plays a can-do-anything fixer;
and, of course, Homeland,
where Claire Danes takes on the
role of a bipolar CIA agent in a
complicated relationship with
a suspected terrorist. (Twisted?
Yes. Gripping? Absolutely.) And
The Washington
Monument
there are others, too, such as

Veep, Political Animals and 1600
Penn, all of which showcase DC as
the hotspot for drama, intrigue,
corruption and, well, scandal.
If youve only ever stopped
in New York, Los Angeles and
Miami, consider DC instead: its
hotter than ever, and the Malls
monuments really do come
alive in the summertime.
LOOK OUT FOR: The Obamas
hip hangouts. For their 17th wedding
anniversary, POTUS brought
FLOTUS to the Blue Duck Tavern
(www.blueducktavern.com) at the
Park Hyatt Washington, where the
focus is on farm-to-table, fresh and
organic cuisine. And on Michelles
birthday, they enjoyed a 15-layer
carrot cake from The Source (www.
wolfgangpuck.com), housed in the
Newseum, one of DCs coolest
museums. Other favourites include
the truffled mushroom pizza at We,
The Pizza (www.wethepizza.com)
and the Michelle Melt turkey
burger from Good Stuff eatery
(www.goodstuffeatery.com).
For more, http://washington.org.
photograph: gLENN gLASSER/gALLERySTOCK
25
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On the cover

38 Readers Travel Awards 2013 We reveal the

170 Sonam Kapoor presents Mumbai Masala

141 Where to feast in Dubai Alisha Patel tells

182 The best island hideaways on the Great

158 Bangkoks shopping secrets Bollywood

192 Snow-kissed Gulmarg The future looks bright

winners of this years RTA, voted for by you,

you which culinary hotspots to check out

costume designer Niharika Bhasin Khan reveals

photograph: tom parker

A self-confessed foodies guide to Maximum City.

Barrier Reef Mark Chipperfield finds an isle to

for Kashmir, with more and more adventure

The Khyber Himalayan

Dec-Jan 2013-14 Cond Nast traveller 13

32 First Word Hindi cinema has

inspired us to create our own

with their films and are now

202 Dance the night away

Juan Madrid reveals his insiders

226 Room with a view

andBeyond Ngorongoro Crater

16 Cond Nast Traveller Dec-Jan 2013-14

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EDITOR Divia Thani Daswani

PuBlIshIng DIREcTOR Arjun Mehra

ManagIng EDITOR Laura Griffith-Jones

synDIcaTIOn ManagER Michelle Pereira

PuBlIshER Sunaina Talwar Khiani

MaRkETIng DIREcTOR Oona Dhabhar

aRT DIREcTOR Himanshu Lakhwani

FEaTuREs EDITOR Prasad Ramamurthy

assIsTanT aRT DIREcTOR Radhika Maheshwari

FEaTuREs wRITER Sunayana Kumari

lIFEsTylE wRITER Jasreen Mayal Khanna

assIsTanT synDIcaTIOn cOORDInaTORs Donna Leeks,

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