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Near the summit of Mount Everest up in the deathstone on the edge of the north
face there's a cave the climbers called old green boots climbing towards the summit
some Mountaineers like to stop and pay their respects to the Indian climber who lies
preserved in the ice exactly where he perish 10 years ago with his green boots
marking his grave nobody ever mentions his name nor discusses how he died his
body is regarded as a warning they can expect no mercy in the deaths on the
morning of May 14 2006 a group of Mountaineers was shocked to find another
climber frozen but still alive and sitting next to green boots believing there was
nothing they could do they decided to leave the stricken man and carry on the
repercussions of what appeared to be a callous act will remain with them forever
they were condemned by commentators and the media use even climber barking
dogs became the first double answer this morality have been raised imagination
mountaineering made climbing the world's most hardcore scenes became a pariah
in finding movement to save stricken British plan is david schardt on now heres
laughs the first man to summit Everest sir edmund hillary judged at the selfish
behavior of a modern generation of climate there I'm is to get to the summer and
the welfare of anybody on the wire is just too bad it wasn't just any one that they
criticize me I was it was my childhood hero you know that was my hero still has a
serene I've you Martin angles of a bitch crazy the criticism stung but what's done
even more was that people were voicing opinions on no information of what it was
like ok more than 30 people walk past the stricken man that night and yet a double
amputee mark engels was the only one blamed for not helping in what really
happened on Everest does summit fever turned human beings into happens
machines or did Sir EdmundHillary get it all wrong the hardest thing is to think
they're people think that you would walk past a dying person and not help them if
you could the 2006 season was shaping up to be one of the best on record hundreds
of Mountaineers hoping to reach the summit by way of the north east ridge were
encouraged by forecasts of good weather and perfect conditions they were
anticipating the moment when they were joined the ranks of eliteMountaineers who
had stood on the roofof the world yeah an assault on Everest begins with
theclimatisation to the lack of oxygenthe climbers establish a series of campsin
stages to the summit the final pushtakes them into this zone andenvironment so
hostile the bodystarved of oxygenstarts to eat itself the lungs andbrains will and
exposed flesh caninstantly freezeye first was the pinnacle really is thatit's the
highest if you can stay in ontop of that helpthen they had a pair that it can giveyou
for the rest of your lifeit's just you know if you can do therein gz and do
anythingmark engels was one of a team of fourNew Zealanders who would attempt
tomatch the achievement of sediment andstand on the summit of Everestthat would
or woody had already summitedEverest twice on this expeditionhe was responsible
for leading the teamto the summitmountaineering challenges you
mentallychallenged you physically it's almostgetting down to the core of what
livingis about you cut away all the extrastuff and life but then it's just youand
and try and get us at any other timeresolve little pig hotel was as somepretty
severe frostbitethe whole forefoot frozen completelyafter a month in the hospitalI
got wheeled into the theater and hadboth legs amputated that a hundred
fortymillimeters under the nameso many people ask about how do youtrain for
everest you knowwell for me the best training that ihave a head was was middle
peak hillafter weeks of acclimatization the teamare preparing for the assault on
thesummitthey will leave camp for and spend atleast 12 hours in the death of
battlingthe blind forces of nature in theirattempt to reach the summit and returnthe
Northeast which route is dividedinto three way points first step secondstep third
step and then the summiton the route to the first tip they willalso pass screen boots
cavethe whole of the expedition just leadsup to one day to summit I you know
whenyou start to get your gear ready to seeit off at all evenit's like walking into an
exam bloodywalking into an exam there areconsequences of filing too horrible
tothink that everything was feeling goodwith one exception there it was socalled it
was a really really severemorning as soon as you're goingthat's great but for me it's
justgetting the league's on and it's thetoughest time you knowyeah Aaron tension
was actually to leaveat about one o'clock in the morning butwe brought their
forward by two hourswere away from KR camp for air about 20pass to live and so
was it not prettysoon I had a quick chat with Russell onthe radio just a little doubt
that wewere going in fact he was saying come oncome on you should be going you
hewanted to stay out of the air by leaveus not doinghe's outta here monitoring
theexpedition's every moveRussell Brice maintains radio contactfrom Camp to over
a thousand metersbelow is your extra is easier extra eyeshe's the top stone
reallythe first of Russell's team to leavethat night with next tire on his questto
become the first person from livingon to stand on the summitgood luck max was
was right half infront he had taken off and he had abouta 20-minute lead on usI care
about you readywe got a hit of the pack we're allpretty much moving together as a
groupyeahnow the biggest problem was that therewas a lot of other people came to
begoing for the summer that died as welland it almost becomes a bit of a rush
sothat you're not going to get caught upin traffic jams to have to be around 35to 40
people or and we were right at thefront which was greatyou're moving in a line all
the way tothe summit on a fixed rope in its it wasa wee bit like a train and stops and
itstarts characters all in a scenesthrough osmosis almost pull each otherthrough
when it's that cold youyou need to keep moving to keep warm -just be out of line x
a reasonable sortof body temperatureit's much much easier the altitude toget cross
piewhenever I stopped even just for aminute four seconds to try more myhaynes
Georgie would be right behindhaving a petnot not get moving get moving don't
stopdon't stop you cannot stop you cannotstop today and orgies of guidance andI'd
climb dearest 5 times beforethat's what's gonna be as sex the sceneI saw the
nervousness and Georgie I sawthe nervousness and fito about theconditions that
day it was just sobrutally coldwell that the lead-up to greenberg skiveas very
inspired you go out what's knownas the extra calories at a camp for andit's
relatively steep angle smileclimbing in the dark effects right andthat leads you to
the summit ridge andthen you go into a series of wages thatyou must Traverse and
this is on thesummit rigid 8,500 meters and in yourhead was not as they can
challenge theface on your left there drops two orthree thousand meters better
feelingextreme angle down to the glass here andon your right below you fake
togetherthe whole of the north face of Everestand that again is dropping
downapproximately two and a half thousandmeters to the valley floor and a slip ora
trip or if you missed clipping effectsropeyou are going to take what everybodycalls
is the Grand Tourand that's all the way to the bottomeven in the darkit's just a black
hole and you look overinto the qing chun face it's like whoyou know it's a you get
the sort ofscenes of evil at some it's a toughplacesome cases you think we're
completelyout over the dropI mean I way out of playing that even ifboth legs
brokeyou know I could still walk on needs youknow that meanthen you start going
around some ofthose Travis is especially under thebottom of the secant steep and if
youcan't walk there would be no way you canever get around those no way on
yourcould never carry someone around thethese are incredible focus there if
youstuff up hereno one's gonna be able to get you downone of the heart of the
sides of ofsummit dies that you do encountered didpeople there are bodies up there
thatcan't be moved or removed because of thenature of the terrain it's very stateit's
a horrendously exposed so there arebodies that you occasionally have toeither
climb over will try to climb towalk around and my fist time andsomething and I for
we walk past 16bodiesI mean it was a shockeryeahgrace is a climate that died and
1996 Ithink on the way down and I like a lotof people don't want the way down
likeso many of the bodies on the north sideof Everestyou know the minute that you
die youstop being flesh-and-blood and youbecome part of the mountainyou know it
can't be moved yet you hadhere to the frozen rock that thesurprise was saying that
he had companyfor being here I felt desperately sorryfor thathowever it wasn't
there you know thelittle frostbite was just was tradingand in the first thing that
came to mindwas you with a guy I saw yesterdayafternoon high on the summit slipI
just sort of recognized what he musthave done he got the summit litehe was a line
and I figured that mostlikely coming down he ended up theceiling in the dark which
of course isdangerous when you're on your ownit's possible that has hit
latebatteries had died and so he stopped upfor the night he found this cave and
hecrawled in there and I thought that wasa pretty sensible thing to doconsidering
the circumstances but it wasso called that I didn't realize you knowI mean he was
still alive is brady Icould see breath coming out through thefront of his jacketI guess
he was waiting to be able to seethe way back down to camp 4unfortunately for him
it was the coldestnight of the seasonthank you good morning was not so aboutthe
camp Phil and I elements he lookedget going us electricity get a move onmy there's
all these headlights all theway back down to Kim and it would bevery easy to follow
them down we'regetting lostI realized that while we don't know whohe ishe said he
looked more dead than aliveand my primary responsibility is to theclients and the
people that it with methis is also one o'clock in the morningof any risk it was to
have happened atthat wouldn't have happened to date onthat's a horrible thing to
have to do iswalk past but that's the reality of itand this was a big shock to
cowboyhe'd never seen you know did bodies andor somebody in a sort of a
some people thought that he was adead body that they were expecting tosee there
in any case lot of peopledidn't see him at all and others thoughtthat is beyond
recovery our suppliesI wasn't there I did it's a questionthat is hypotheticalI don't
know later on the descentmany of the Mountaineers would encountersharp
againmark ingles focus shifted to his ownsurvival a broken valve in his maskmeant
much of the oxygen he took in eachbreath was leaking outwill this oxygen to warm
his body on thebitterly freezing day continuing to thesummit would almost certainly
result inserious frostbiteit's a tough died there any of feetthey're green boats and
the body and thecave hit on medisappeared within five states but atthe
understanding that you didn't wantto end up like they stayed with you forthe whole
climbwe carry on a cross around the sticktraverse and to the base of the famouspart
of the road as this letter boltedup and held applies to get overwhat's really
considered to be a mostimpossible station rock to try to climbat that altitude and
you look up at thesecond step is just like this big shipsprayer that rears up over
here and Ibaggerthat's technically it's just awkwardereffective max got these legs
on it wasreally awkward for himOh get you out of thathey was incident hey I think
you justhad that real heavy heart that meansholding everybody upso you I think he
was starting to getreally angry that you're gonna die avehicle and that this what
workedhe got angry and he managed to figure itout and Eddie got it on the field
teamsthey should climb in the later when youstep right out and you hear there
isabsolutely nothing under your fateyou're looking straight down you knowtwo and
a half three thousand metersstraight down the North Face of interestyou know the
consequences of fallin offfor laterjust don't be a thinking about you knowwe've been
a lot of people that havedied around the effect you know whatthey're called rainbow
valley as theslopes down beneath the second stepbecause you can see the
differentcolored down from all the bodies thatthe people that have fallen from theit
goes from being a physical mountainbelow the second Steve that goes tobeing this
real mean to mountain abovethe sequence steepit's just so slow you know you're
only ahundred meters vertical from the summitof Everest but you know it's gonna
takeyou a couple of theirsyeahyou know getting decently timethat's daylight there
is still lookingdown at your fate but it's not the bigblack hole anymoreit's all the way
down to the wrong butcan I it's all the way down the NorthFacewith the oxygen not
working it was justgetting desperately hard and I juststood to one side and let the
guys gopast angles situation was now criticallack of oxygen was affecting
hisdecision making with only a few hoursleft in his tank to get to the summitand
backhe had to ignore extreme pain from hisstumps as ambition drove him
forwardthe anomaly of that particular notI said my altimeter that came for- 8,200
meters where canvas and when ichecked it on the summit it was reading9000
metersso what was actually happening as we arehaving what's called an
atmosphere atlow where the mountain was actuallysticking out of the atmosphere
so spicehad come down to meet us and that's whywe're so horrendously coldand
just keep going on nice just justchallenging to yourselffive steps and stopfive steps
and stop well it's actuallychant a dimm slots lower than thatand then all of a sudden
there'sabsolutely nothing in front of you youknow how do you know you're on the
topof the worldyou don't have this revelation of asummitthere's just nothing in front
of youthere's one other thought and that's youknow if she had a footstep with Sri
onlyoneyou know but it's the right one it wasone right on the very tophe came up
from the south i came up fromthe northit's just that one footstep that countsyeah i
was a very sober happythere wasn't an intoxicating happy was avery sober happy
as it is a sense ofpride and you know there were four of usthe on the summer then
daywas three max and and the cowboyit was a fantastic moment for 4k wayswith
most of his oxygen depleted and hisfingers frostbitten the criticalchallenge now is
descent and it's duringthe descent that most of the fatalmistakes occur for me
especiallyclimbing downs much much harder thanclimbing up and as soon as i
startedmoving down I knew this was going to bea very long dayyou could feel that
you are doing a bitof damageyou can step of the ropes at the top ofthat later and
just an absolutenightmareit's just so focused on not getting acramp on coordinate
and you get a crampon coordinate you just fall overbackwardsyou know and yeah I
just popped out ofthe league's actually not a good lockclimb down the ladder stop
part way downyou know put an arm through around andyou know i'm still painting
you know i'mstill got the mask off to try and do thetechnical climbing and put the
mask onand just ransacks impose on down theladder and those when you really
startto thinkhey what we're going to get back towhere the poor bugger was this one
theother member of the Russell Brice teammax chyre they've been first to
leavecamp for that day did become the firstLebanese citizen to summit Everest
onhis way upMax had not seen the man in the cave butnow in the sunlighthe
couldn't miss sharp and his red bootschaya radioed Bryce as well it max thistopping
message was received by Russellyes access is listening and watchingfrom below
also listening on the radionetwork were all the other expeditionsand they heard as
wellmax I can see where you are I can seewhere you are on the hill was
lookingthrough a telescope and if he haddescribed to me a man that was
prettymuch dead is he talking next to talk toan actual fact during our
conversationwhich was taking something like 20 oddminutes max said I know the
man's diedhe stopped shivering and he's died andthen max comes along and says
are nowhe's come alive again make I know thisis hard but it's gonna take 20
freshguysI'll be monitoring your oxygen andyou've only got two hours left so I'dlike
you to leave him nowcome on down mixthe moment happening I couldn't see
anyhelpreadily available on the entire mountainI heard Russell talk to max
andinsisting it mix keep going we're goingto the cave where the shot was to me
hehadn't moved and this is now some prettynine hours later and it was obvious
thathe was almost deedit was just excruciating to watch to bein that position to be
that vulnerableand helpless and not have ityeahnot have those you know those not
havemuch of a grip on your life lift much ofa group at allapart from being for usI'm
not sure you know justthe same process a good you know I stopso the others
coming and I moved onand that's against my regret you know isthat I didn't touch
himjust tonightthat the tiniest of tiny differencesnext did what he couldthen some of
their other shippers didthe best that they could they moved amountain of the Sun
out of us out of thethis alcovethey found some spear oxygen that inDavid did
respond to Porter she isproved stronger super on the mountain atthe momentand
here's with a another ship from theTurkish team and potentially did try tohelp David
Sharpe and took about 25minutes to move four steps before theyput him down
againso his two extremely strong herpers gothere's no way we can rescue this
manfor a moment the stricken man recoveredenough to talk in his dying words
hetold sure / his name was David shop andhe was with asian trickingyeaharrest is
an incredibly brutal place youknow until you've been here you don'tknow what it's
like you don't know howdifficult it is to actually survive ataltitudes angles was now
sufferingsevere frostbite and the descent wasbecoming a nightmare on his
damagedstumps he was finding it increasinglydifficult to war had to stop andlook
and lead up to call it the signaljust take the pressurelet's put that leg down and lift
up theother League take the pressureso that's beenboys came up with the
bargainand it's like you know why you guysafter hours of excruciating pain
Engelscould go no furtherand with only 200 meters to camp theteam came to his
rescue boys and pickedme up and before I do I was on . bank ashe danced down
and write cameneeds why you don't climb a lot so thatthose around you can
address the issuesbefore its to lifewhen I got down I just knew which hadbeen a
significant thing for me that dayit wasn't about something or anythinglike that was
was about what hadencountered and she had an incrediblylimited way with another
human and witha narrow felt about that that wasconsuming me you know i was
actuallywell were sitting there waiting at ABCthat we found out that the guy up on
themountain and green boots cave and diedRussell would she need to go out
andfind out who it was I mean no one knewabout David Sharpe until the he was
deedeven the people on his expedition thatdidn't know about him until he
wasactually deed ingles return to NewZealand a hero at me I'm bloody good tobe
highbut as news of sharps dear emerged hishigh public profile so many turn
againsthim has commercial mountaineering madeclimbing the world's most
heartlesspursuit today and Mike engels washeavily criticized for not saving
adyingthat was the start of the Civil verylong months in hospitalthe fingers that had
started to break itup and email Kate you're being losingtheir tops of the the
stumpsthat was the big surprise really I putthe bones right through the means of
thestumps yeahunderneath is in here to life is allover there two months in hospital
wentthrough several operations buteffectively just had three centimeterscut off
each of the ends of the stampsjust been shortened so when have theleverage so I'll
go for you know we willgo for sure League shelter that shifterbut while angles
medical issues werebeing treatedhe received another shock we got a phonecalled
terrible news terrible news andthey said sir reads criticized you siredmund hillary's
come out in the medianand is you know criticized yourexpeditionI think mark angles
of a bit crazyyou put in a great battle to reach thesummit but I I don't approve of
the factthat he just rang up base camp and saidwhat the hell up here or do I do
aboutitand the head of the expedition said allbeen there long enough nowyou'll be
did so don't worry about it imean that that attitude is to me is apathetiche's a
human being and we would regardedas our duty to get him back to safetyDavid
chapter on my neighbors they hadnothing to do with us all