AMANN Garment Dyeing en

garment dyeing.
apparel
intelligent threads.
garment dyeing basics.
What is Garment Dyeing and why is it so famous?
What is dyed?
Basic models of the collection are sewn raw and are dyed afterwards according to market trends and demands.
This procedure makes it possible to respond quickly to market trends. Garment Dyeing is perfect to achieve special design
effects and a distinctive optical appearance. Garment Dyeing offers high flexibility regarding colours, logistics, materials
management and supply.
A distinction is made between fabrics made from cellulosic fibres (e.g.

cotton) and those made from synthetic fibres (e.g. polyester or polyamide).
Basically, all materials can be dyed, provided that the correct dyeing procedure is used.
Common dyeing procedures.
Fashionable dyeing procedures.
Reactive dyes.
Old-Dye, Antique-Dye, Cold-Dye.
dyestuff is linked chemically to the fibre

for good to very good wash and rub fastness
dyed with e.g. pigments or direct dyestuffs
Direct or sulphide dyes.

no real chemical reaction with the fibre
dyeing procedure is used if washed-out effects
are required
Pigment dyes.
dyestuff is applied to the fibre using binder agents
by means of cellulase treatment or abrasive washing

treatments (e.g. stone wash), washed-out effects can
be achieved
Polyamide fabrics are less prominent in Garment Dyeing. Polyamide fabrics are often used for underwear or for medical equipment. A future trend is
Garment Dyeing of polyester clothes (e.g. in the sportswear segment) using
high-temperature dyes.
Garment dyed items include e.g. trousers, jackets, T-shirts, polo- and
sweatshirts, shirts and blouses, workwear, carpets, bath mats and towels,
socks, underwear, bags and shoes.
Dip-Dye.
pre-fabricated garments are dipped into the dye bath
on hangers
even colour gradients are achieved by slow dipping
and raising the garment
no real chemical reaction with the fibre

very good light fastness
Most important fibre is and continues to be cotton. Other natural fibres

such as silk and wool as well as blends of them are increasingly
gaining significance. In addition, more and more elastic fabrics are used
(Comfort-Stretch, Power-Stretch).
Top-Dye.
sponges, rubber foam balls or rags are dipped into the
dye bath and put into the dyeing machine together with
the garments
AMANNs product range for Garment Dyeing Choosing the correct sewing thread.
Choosing the correct sewing thread for Garment Dyeing depends on the raw material in use and the type of dyeing procedure. Garment Dyeing itself requires a special performance of the sewing thread. The market is looking for sewing threads
with a good dyeability, sufficient strength, efficient sewing performance and with ideal elongation. With PremiumGD, AMANN
developed a sewing thread that unifies all those requirements for the first time!
technique to achieve irregular and sketchy effects
Tie-Dye.
before the dyeing process, pre-fabricated garments are
folded or knotted, put into nets or are fixed by strings
technique to achieve irregular effects like batik
Material
Dyeing procedure
AMANN products
Cotton/elastic cotton fabrics
Reactive dyes, substantive dyes, pigment dyes,

direct dyes
PremiumGD, RasantGD, Mercifil
Polyester
High-temperature dye with disperse dyes
sabaC, Serafil
Polyamide
Acid dyes or metal complex dyes
Garment Dyeing 120, PA Bauschgarn SGD
It is also a current method to use dyed polyester sewing threads in combination with cotton dyeing procedures.
Using this method, the seam quality is optimised, but the original idea of Garment Dyeing is lost. Using sewing threads that are
already dyed offers no advantages in terms of logistics and quick response to colour trends. The use of PremiumGD combines
both!
No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose we recommend individual tests in any case.
products and applications.
Premium
Viscose/cotton core spun
THE innovation for Garment Dyeing
the first sewing thread that combines perfect
dyeability with elasticity
core spun thread made from 70% viscose
and 30% cotton
robust in sewing
suitable as needle and looper thread
Product
PremiumGD
Polyester/cotton core spun

core spun thread made from 40% polyester
and 60% cotton
optimised dyeing properties due to the high cotton part
the ideal addition to Mercifil and
PremiumGD, recommended to be used in combination
increased seam strength due to the polyester part
compared to 100% cotton threads
robust in sewing
Ticket no.
Tex no.
Needle size
Colour no.
Make-up
20
150
Nm 140 160
1000
1.500 m Co
30
105
Nm 120 140
1000
2.500 m Co
50
60
Nm 110 130
1000
5.000 m Co
75
40
Nm 100 120
1000
5.000 m Co
100
30
Nm 80 90
1000
5.000 m Co
Application recommendation per ticket.

Ticket no.
Tex no.
Application recommendation
20
150
needle thread for expressive decorative and topstitch seams
105
needle thread for distinctive decorative and topstitch seams

for highly stressed seams
for heavy weight and very elastic fabrics
50
60
under thread in combination with ticket no. 20 and 30

for stressed seams
for heavy weight and very elastic fabrics
75
40
for lowly stressed seams

for serging seams
30
30
100
Co=
for non-stressed seams

for serging seams
for fine fabrics (blouses, shirts, T-shirts)
as embroidery thread
Product
RasantGD
Ticket no.
Tex no.
Needle size
Colour no.
Make-up
30
105
Nm 120 140
LT00 + DK01+ DK02 2.500 m Co
50
60
Nm 100 110
LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co
75
40
Nm 90 100
LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co
100
30
Nm 80 90
LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co
Explanation of colour no.:

LT00 = Light with raw polyester core, recommended for light dyeing, depending on the type of treatment, it is also possible to use it all-purpose
DK01 = Medium with pre-dyed polyester core, recommended for medium dyeing
DK02 = Dark with pre-dyed polyester core, recommended for dark dyeing
Please consider: Due to the high cotton part, the dyeability is optimised. Nevertheless, only the cotton part is dyed during the dyeing process.
The polyester core remains undyed.

Ticket no.
Tex no.
30
105
under thread for highest safety on highly stressed seams (e.g. seat seams) especially
while using lockstitch
for heavy weight and elastic fabrics
50
60
under thread in combination with ticket 30 for more safety on stressed seams
(e.g. seat seams)
for stressed inside seams
for heavyweight and elastic fabrics
75
40
for lowly stressed inside seams

for serging seams
100
30
for non-stressed inside seams

for serging seams
for fine fabrics (blouses, shirts, T-shirts)
7
AMANNs products for Garment Dyeing Application recommendation.
Depending on the article of clothing and the type of fabric in use (elastic or non-elastic, blends of materials, density, etc.),
different concepts of sewing threads could be reasonable:
Sewing thread concept A (PremiumGD):
Cotton spun, mercerised

the classic sewing thread for Garment Dyeing
made from long-staple mercerised cotton
optimal dyeing properties
specific signal colour prevents confusion
For seams visible from the outside
For inside seams, not visible from the outside
Needle thread
PremiumGD
PremiumGD
Under thread
PremiumGD
PremiumGD
Sewing thread concept B (PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD):
Product
Mercifil
Ticket no. (Ne) Tex no.
Ticket no. (Nm) Needle size
Colour no.
Make-up
10
180
18
Nm 140 160
3000 + 6231
1.000 m Co
12
105
30
Nm 120 130
3000 + 6231
2.500 m Co
24/2
70
50
Nm 110 130
3000 + 6231
5.000 m Co
40
50
60
Nm 80 100
3000 + 6231
5.000 m Co
50
40
75
Nm 70 80
3000 + 6231
5.000 m Co
60
30
100
Nm 65 70
3000 + 6231
5.000 m Co
Explanation of colour no.: 3000 = bleached, 6231 = removable signal colour
Needle thread
PremiumGD
RasantGD
Under thread
RasantGD
RasantGD
Sewing thread concept C (Mercifil in combination with RasantGD):

Needle thread
Mercifil
RasantGD
Under thread
RasantGD
RasantGD
Sewing thread concept D (Mercifil):

Ticket no.
Tex no.
Needle thread
Mercifil
Mercifil
10
180
needle thread for expressive decorative and topstitch seams
Under thread
Mercifil
Mercifil
12
105
needle thread for decorative and topstitch seams
24/2
70
for high stressed seams

for decorative seams
40
50
for normally stressed seams

as under thread for decorative seams
50
40
for lightweight fabrics (shirts, blouses and underwear)

for serging seams
60
30
for fine fabrics (shirts, blouses and T- shirts)

for serging seams
Co=
Sewing thread concept E (RasantGD):

Needle thread
RasantGD
RasantGD
Under thread
RasantGD
RasantGD
Thread concept
Sewing performance
Repair rate
high
low
low
Single thread concept
The classical GD
sewing thread concept
with established result
in dyeability
Multiple thread concept
The modern GD
for increased seam
elasticity
The alternative GD
for all applications
The revolutionary GD
for all applications,
especially for very
elastic fabrics
Better sewing performance,

Low sewing performance,
less risk of thread breakages
high risk of thread breakages
compared to concept D
optimised
low
high
Multiple thread concept
Very good sewing

performance, very high
machine speed possible
low
high
higher
Excellent sewing
low
high
Abrasion resistance
highest
Light spots possible on

inside seams
Light spots possible on

inside seams
Perfect and uniformly

dyed seams on both inside
and outside
Perfect and uniformly dyed

seams on the outside
Perfect and uniformly dyed

seams on the outside
Perfect and uniformly

dyed seams on both inside
and outside
Seam elongation
Optical appearance
after dyeing
Mercifil
Mercifil
in combination with
RasantGD
PremiumGD
in combination with
RasantGD
PremiumGD
Sewing thread concept
The special GD
for individual effects
Very good sewing

low
high
higher
Light spots possible on both

inside and outside seams
RasantGD

9
Comparison of sewing thread concepts.

Improved seam quality due to higher elongation of the sewing thread.
20
Elongation in %
15
10
Mercifil
RasantGD
PremiumGD
The higher thread elongation of RasantGD and especially PremiumGD has a positive influence on seam elasticity and therefore has
a direct effect on seam quality. However, it is very important to consider the correct thread balance.
The correct thread balance in the seam.
We know from long-term experience that inappropriate thread balance is the reason for broken seams in most cases.
Especially for Garment Dyeing, a perfect thread balance is crucial for the seam stability. The higher elongation of the sewing
thread (e.g. PremiumGD) has a positive impact, but it cannot compensate inappropriate thread balance in the seam completely.
Thread balance
Consequence
Perfect thread balance =

optimal seam elasticity and seam strength
Inappropriate thread balance = Thread breakages
The drawing shows the lockstitch, please consider this also for the chainstitch.
applications examples.
11
Trousers
The following typical clothes for Garment Dyeing

illustrate the application of the recommended
sewing thread concepts. The sewing advisory service of AMANN is happy to recommend individual
sewing thread concepts with regard to your fabrics
and processing parameters in use. Furthermore,
sewing thread calculations are available on request.
Garment Dyeing has a large share in trousers production. Customers appreciate the distinct look.
Garment dyed trousers become frequently worn
favourites, which must be specifically robust and
durable. This is a particular challenge for sewing
threads, which must provide perfect dyeability and
at the same time sufficient strength and sewability.
Shirts & Blouses.

Garment Dyeing is also used for blouses and
shirts. Production of collars and cuffs, hems, button
panels and yokes asks for accurate seams, perfect
dyeing results and sufficient strength. AMANNs
sewing thread range for Garment Dyeing has been
developed to meet these challenges.
Seam type
Closing seams (not

visible from the outside)
Closing seams (not

Topstitch seams (visible

from the outside)
Serging seams
Button hole
Attach button
Seam appearance
Stitch type
301
lockstitch
401
chainstitch
301
lockstitch
504
3-thread overlock
stitch
304
button hole
107
attach button
concept
Needle thread
Bobbin or looper thread
Product
Ticket
no.
Tex
no.
Product
Ticket
no.
Tex
no.
PremiumGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
RasantGD
75
40
RasantGD
75
40
RasantGD
75
40
RasantGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
RasantGD
75
40
RasantGD
75
40
RasantGD
75
40
RasantGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
RasantGD
75
40
Mercifil
50
40
RasantGD
75
40
PremiumGD
100
30
PremiumGD
100
30
RasantGD
100
30
RasantGD
100
30
RasantGD
100
30
RasantGD
100
30
PremiumGD
100
30
PremiumGD
100
30
PremiumGD
100
30
PremiumGD
100
30
Mercifil
50
40
Mercifil
50
40
PremiumGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
Mercifil
50
40
A = PremiumGD | B = PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD | C = Mercifil in combination with RasantGD
Seam type
Closing seams (not

Closing seams (not

Topstitch seams (visible

from the outside)
Serging seams
Button hole
Bar tack
Seam appearance
Stitch type
301
lockstitch
401
chainstitch
301
lockstitch
504
3-thread overlock
stitch
404
button hole
304
bar tack
concept
Needle thread
Bobbin or looper thread
Product
Ticket
no.
Tex
no.
Product
Ticket
no.
Tex
no.
PremiumGD
50
60
PremiumGD
50
60
RasantGD
50
60
RasantGD
50
60
RasantGD
50
60
RasantGD
50
60
PremiumGD
50
60
PremiumGD
50
60
RasantGD
50
60
RasantGD
50
60
RasantGD
50
60
RasantGD
50
60
PremiumGD
30
105
PremiumGD
50
60
PremiumGD
30
105
RasantGD
50
60
Mercifil
12
105
RasantGD
50
60
PremiumGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
RasantGD
75
40
RasantGD
75
40
RasantGD
75
40
RasantGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
Mercifil
50
40
Mercifil
50
40
PremiumGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
PremiumGD
75
40
Mercifil
50
40
Mercifil
50
40
A = PremiumGD | B = PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD | C = Mercifil in combination with RasantGD

103855
EN 02000124
intelligent threads.
apparel
home interior
shoes & leather
automotive
Our management systems are certified according to
embroidery
techtex
Amann & Shne GmbH & Co. KG

Hauptstrae 1 | D-74357 Bnnigheim | Phone +49 7143 277-0
E-Mail: service@amann.com | www.amann.com

AMANN Garment Dyeing en

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AMANN Garment Dyeing en

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garment dyeing.

garment dyeing basics.

What is Garment Dyeing and why is it so famous?

A distinction is made between fabrics made from cellulosic fibres (e.g.

Common dyeing procedures.

Fashionable dyeing procedures.

Old-Dye, Antique-Dye, Cold-Dye.

dyestuff is linked chemically to the fibre

dyed with e.g. pigments or direct dyestuffs

Direct or sulphide dyes.

by means of cellulase treatment or abrasive washing

no real chemical reaction with the fibre

Most important fibre is and continues to be cotton. Other natural fibres

technique to achieve irregular and sketchy effects

Cotton/elastic cotton fabrics

Reactive dyes, substantive dyes, pigment dyes,

PremiumGD, RasantGD, Mercifil

High-temperature dye with disperse dyes

Acid dyes or metal complex dyes

Garment Dyeing 120, PA Bauschgarn SGD

products and applications.

Polyester/cotton core spun

Application recommendation per ticket.

needle thread for expressive decorative and topstitch seams

needle thread for distinctive decorative and topstitch seams

under thread in combination with ticket no. 20 and 30

for lowly stressed seams

for non-stressed seams

LT00 + DK01+ DK02 2.500 m Co

LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co

LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co

LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co

Explanation of colour no.:

Application recommendation per ticket.

for lowly stressed inside seams

for non-stressed inside seams

products and applications.

Cotton spun, mercerised

For seams visible from the outside

For inside seams, not visible from the outside

Sewing thread concept B (PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD):

Ticket no. (Ne) Tex no.

Ticket no. (Nm) Needle size

Explanation of colour no.: 3000 = bleached, 6231 = removable signal colour

For seams visible from the outside

For inside seams, not visible from the outside

Sewing thread concept C (Mercifil in combination with RasantGD):

For inside seams, not visible from the outside

Sewing thread concept D (Mercifil):

For seams visible from the outside

For inside seams, not visible from the outside

needle thread for expressive decorative and topstitch seams

needle thread for decorative and topstitch seams

for high stressed seams

for normally stressed seams

for lightweight fabrics (shirts, blouses and underwear)

for fine fabrics (shirts, blouses and T- shirts)

Sewing thread concept E (RasantGD):

For inside seams, not visible from the outside

Single thread concept

Multiple thread concept

Better sewing performance,

Multiple thread concept