All youve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!

TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET

PAGE

PLAN
YOUR TRIP

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

2
6
16
18
19
22
25

Welcome to

Sri Lanka

COUNTRY
The original
Comprehensive
Adventurous
The Undiscovered
Country

16

29

When to Go
Tropical climate, wet/dry seasons
Tropical climate, rain year-round
Warm to hot summers, mild winters

Jaffna #
GO AprSep

DISCOVER
Best-of
Photo-packed
Inspirational

Sri Lankas attributes are many. Few

places have as many Unesco World Heritage Sites (seven) packed into such a small
area. Its 2000-plus years of culture can
be discovered at ancient sites lled with
mystery. Legendary temples boast beautiful details crafted by artisans through the
centuries.
Across whole swaths of the country,
that thing that goes bump in the night
might be an elephant heading to a favourite waterhole. Safari tours of Sri Lankas
pleasantly relaxed national parks encounter leopards, grouchy water bualoes, all
manner of birds and a passel of primates.

Your Daily
Budget
Budget less than

Rs 3500

Simple guesthouse:
Rs 1000-2500

Trincomalee
GO AprSep

A delicious rice and

curry: Rs 200-400

Bus fares: under

Rs 300 per day

20

Midrange

CHRISTER FREDRIKSSON / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

35
40
42

REGIONAL
Cultural
Day trips & itineraries
In-depth

So Much in So Little

You might say Sri Lanka has been hiding

in plain sight. Countless scores of travellers have passed overhead on their way
to someplace else, but years of war and
challenges such as tsunamis have kept Sri
Lanka o many itineraries.
But now as youve probably heard
the war is over and Sri Lankas looking up.
If youve done India, Language
grown blas about
Currency
Asia or simply
wantTamil
to explore
Southeast
Sinhala,
Sri Lankan Rupee
and
a place whose appealEnglish
and pleasures are
(Rs)
myriad, then its time you dropped in.

Need to
Know

PL AN YOUR TRIP I F YO U L I K E

Welcome to Sri Lanka .....

20 Top Experiences ........
Need to Know ..................
Whats New ......................
If You Like... ......................
Month by Month ..............
Itineraries .........................
Sri Lanka Sun, Sea
& Sand ...........................
National Parks
& Safaris ........................
Travel with Children ........
Regions at a Glance ........

Get the right guides for your trip

Rs 3500
-16,000

Nuwara Eliya
GO DecMay

Colombo
GO NovMay #

Double room in a nice

midrange place:
Rs 2500-8000

Meals at hotel:
Rs 1500-2500

Galle
GO DecMar
#

Pilgrims at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (p133), Kandy

Buddhist
Temples

Wildlife

Shopping

More than 2000 years of

religious heritage can be
found in the temples great
and small that dot this
small island. Time your visit
to a festival for an extraordinary experience.

The island may be small

but the animals are big,
especially the herds of Asian
elephants that live inside
and outside the national
parks. Leopards and water
bualoes are just some of
the other creatures.

Colombo Gangaramaya Temple

is one of several temples in the
capital that have high-prole
celebrations through the year
(p53)

Yala National Park Still drawing

crowds like only a spotty big
cat can, a leopard safari in Yala
National Park is a Sri Lankan
highlight (p127)

Being a lush country, its not

surprising that some of Sri
Lankas best goods are what
it grows. Tea is an obvious
purchase, all manner of
spices another. In addition
there are various handicrafts and a growing range
of designer items.

Mulkirigala Hiding inside a

series of cleft-like caves and
dangling o a rocky crag is
this beautiful and little-visited
temple (p119)

Uda Walawe National Park If

youve ever wanted to see a wild
elephant, youre unlikely to nd
a better place to do so than this
park (p176)

Temple of the Sacred Tooth

Relic Containing a tooth of the
Buddha, this is the heart and
soul of Sri Lankan Buddhism

Minneriya National Park

Already a good place to see
elephants and other animals,
this park is the site of the
Gathering when over 400

High Season
(DecMar)

Shoulder
(Apr & SepNov)

Low Season
(MayAug)

The Hill Country

plus west- and southcoast beaches are
busiest and driest

April and
September offer the
best odds for good
weather countrywide

With beds in
demand, prices peak

New Years
celebrations in midApril cause transport
to fill beyond capacity

The Yala monsoon

season (May to
August) brings rain
to the south and west
coasts plus the Hill
Country

The Maha monsoon

season (October
to January) keeps
the East, North and
Ancient Cities wet

Colombo Of course the capital

has good shopping. Whats
surprising is just how good it
is. Stylish designer boutiques,
galleries and all manner of
markets sell just about anything
you might want, with plenty of
surprises on oer (p68)

The weather in the

North and East is best

A good time to

Prices nationwide

wander without a set

schedule of bookings

are at their nadir

04-need-to-know-sri12.indd 16

Hire bikes, ride

trains and use a car
and driver some days:
average per day
Rs 2500

Top end over

Rs
16,000

Top-end hotel:
Rs 8000 and up

Meals at top-end
hotels: from Rs 3000

HEALTHY TRAVEL

PHRASEBOOK

Daily use of car and

driver: from Rs 5500

12/04/2012 3:02:32 PM

Negombo Charming and ramshackle Negombo has a busy

town centre full of shopping
Sri Lankans and a beachfront
lined with tourist souvenir shops
(p78)

Looking for other travel resources?

06-if-you-like-sri12.indd 20

12/04/2012 3:03:06 PM

UNDERSTAND
265 SRI LANKA

GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

PAGE

Sri Lanka Today ...............

History ..............................
Environmental Issues .....
People of Sri Lanka .........
Sri Lankan Tea .................
A Taste of Sri Lanka ........

266
268
280
284
288
294

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see
population per sq km
SRI LANKA

US

UK

30 people

Ju y rom te a groun swe of international sym ath

rme resistance groups, and brought funding from fellow
outhern In ia, as well as from the government of Indira
an counter-revenge attacks continued, and grew into
n massacres on both sides. The government was widely
for acts of torture and disappearances, but it pointed to the
n an violence against civilians, including Tamils and MusTamil ghters.
ntation of a 1987 accord, which would oer limited Tamil
a ongside ocialising Tamil as a national language, never
and the conict escalated into a 25-year civil war that would
aim upwards of 100,000 lives.

Sri Lanka Today

hood, and Play

in Batticaloa, by
Margaret Trawick,
is a poignant
memoir of living
and working in
eastern Sri Lanka
and witnessing
the recruitment
of teenagers to
the LTTE cause.

Peace

Population:
20.8 million

GDP: US$49.7
billion

GDP per
capita:
US$5220

Annual inflation: 5.9%

Unemployment: 5.8%

The 26-year-long conict between the Sri Lankan military and the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE) ended in May 2009 in a brutal end to a
brutal war. Thousands of civilians in the North and East were killed as the
Sri Lankan military launched all-out war on the areas controlled by the
LTTE, and hundreds of thousands of civilians were put in refugee camps.
In the years since, a government reconciliation commission has heard
testimony and veried the huge death toll in 2008 and 2009. The LTTE
inltrated refugee camps with its weapons, the military attacked those
same refugee camps. The charges and counter-charges go on and on. But
whats most important about the end of the war is just how ready the
entire country is to move forward.
A pearl-shaped island of enormous natural wealth and potential, Sri
Lanka has been a poster child for misfortune for far too long. An earlier
eort at peace was upended by the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami, which
killed tens of thousands and plunged the nation into a chaos that allowed the war to erupt again.

LONELYPLANET.COM
For travel information,
advice, tips & digital
chapters

rogress

1959

1959

Despite coming to
power in 1956 with a
Sinhalese-nationalist
manifesto, SWRD
Bandaranaike begins
negotiating with Tamil
leaders for a federation, resulting in his
assassination by a
Buddhist monk.

Widow Sirimavo
Bandaranaike
assumes her late
husbands SFLP post,
becoming the worlds
rst female prime minister. She is appointed
prime minister several
more times before her
death in 2000.

MAGAZINE
For travel stories,
inspiration & ideas
lonelyplanet.com/magazine

STAY IN TOUCH
lonelyplanet.com/contact

Caption

ISBN 978-1-74179-700-8

9 781741 797008

sri-lanka-12-cover.indd 2

EBOOKS
Guidebooks
for your reader
lonelyplanet.com/ebooks

Everyone agrees, theyd rather die than live through the war again, one
r Lankan said to us, and the truth to that is palpable. Decades of delay

CREDIT

1956
Sri Lankan
rty (SLFP)
s the UNP
cialist and
platform.
thnic riots
ict break
a Sinhala
age law is
passed.

APPS
Location-based
guides for the street
lonelyplanet.com/mobile

52399

Paper in this book is certified

against the Forest Stewardship
Council standards. FSC promotes
environmentally responsible, socially
beneficial and economically viable
management of the worlds forests.

AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011

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12/04/2012 3:19:16 PM

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

PAGE

44

ON THE
ROAD

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

Jaffna &
the North
p243

West
Coast
p74

The Ancient
Cities p181
The East
p217

Colombo#
p46 _

The Hill
Country
p130

The South
p93

SURVIVAL
301 GUIDE
PAGE

Directory AZ ..................
Transport .........................
Language .........................
Index .................................
Map Legend .....................

302
310
316
328
335

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

Planet s iPhone phrasebooks

at the Apple App Store.

Language
Sinhala and Tamil are national languages in
Sri Lanka, with English commonly described
as a lingua franca. Its easy to get by with
English, and the Sri Lankan variety has its
own unique characteristics You are having
a problem, isnt it, no? is one example. However, while English may be widely spoken
in the main centres, o the beaten track its
spread thins. In any case, even a few words
of Sinhala or Tamil will go a long way.

Excuse me.
Sorry.
Do you speak
English?
Whats your name?
My name is ...

SINHALA

Do you have any

rooms available?
How much is it per
night?
How much is it per
person?
Is breakfast included?
for one night
for two nights
for one person
for two people
campsite
guesthouse
hotel

Sinhala is ocially written using a cursive

script. If you read our coloured pronunciation
guides as if they were English, you shouldnt
have problems being understood. When consonants are doubled they are pronounced
very distinctly, almost as separate sounds.
The symbols t and d are pronounced less
forcefully than in English, th as in thin, dh as
the th in that, g as in go, and r is more like
a ap of the tongue against the roof of the
mouth its not pronounced as an American
r. As for the vowels, a is pronounced as the
u in cup, aa as the a in father, ai as in
aisle, au as the ow in how, e as in met, i
as in bit, o as in hot, and u as in put.

samah venna
kana gaatui
oyaa in-ghirisih kata
karenawa da?
oyaaghe nama mokkada?
maaghe nama ...

Accommodation

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Ryan Ver Berkmoes

Stuart Butler, Amy Karafin

kaamara thiyanawada?
ek ra-yakata kiyada
ek kenek-kuta kiyada
udeh keh-emath ekkada?
ek rayak pamanai
raya dekak pamanai
ek-kenek pamanai
den-nek pamanai
kamping ground eka
gesthaus eka
hotel eka

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their

favourite places are listed first
_
#

Look out for these icons:

Our authors top
recommendation

A green or
sustainable option

No payment
required

Colombo
% 011 / POP 2.4 MILLION

Why Go?
Colombo is rapidly emerging from the bad rap it has carried
for decades. No longer just the sprawling city you have to
endure on your way to the southern beaches, it has become
a worthy destination in its own right. New restaurants, designer shops and other attractions open constantly.
The legacies of colonial Colombo are still very much intact along its often shady boulevards. Fort is in the midst
of widespread historic restoration while Pettah brims with
markets and rampant commerce.
Even trac-clogged Galle Rd is getting spier, while the
seafront benefits from new roads that are spurring hotel
construction. Colombos cosmopolitan side supports stylish
cafes, interesting stores, galleries and museums. Surprises
abound in its old quarters. You can easily spend a couple of
days exploring this vibrant city and a visit here is an excellent start or finish to your Sri Lankan adventures.

When to Go
Colombo
C/F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm

40/104

16/400

30/86

12/300

20/68

8/200
4/100

10/50

0/32
J

JanMar The
driest season, with
night-time cool
breezes. More
tourists, so book
hotels in advance.

Apr Colombo feels

empty around the
Sinhalese New
Year as people
return to their
home villages.

Dec Although
Christians are a
minority, Christmas is popular
and decorations
are everywhere.

Fort
1
(Col 1) #
Secretariat Halt
Train Station
#

45

Harbour

See the Index for a full Premadasa

list Cricket
of destinations
covered in this book.

inSt D
Ma
am
St
2 Pettah
#

t
Olco

t Mw

See Kollupitiya, Cinnamon

Gardens & Borella Map (p54)

# Baseline Rd

ion

sP
me

Pl

Punchi
Borella
Junction
BORELLA

De Soysa
(Lipton)
THE HILL
Circus

(COL 8)
7 Ward
Odel #
Pl Habarana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200

eiris M

COLOMBO . . . . . . . . . . 46

Un

Rd

a
Sir J

# & Union Place

a
an
ad
ar

4 Slave Island
#

MARADANA
(COL
10)

COLOMBO

Maradana

On the Road

Kompanna
Galle Face 3
# Vidiya

Green

DEMATAGODA
(COL 9)

HULFTSDORP
(COL 12)

Colombo
Fort Beira
South
Lake
Beira
Lake
See Colombo Fort & Pettah Map (p50)

Galle Face
Centre Rd

Stadium

Dean's Rd

Bandaranaike
Quay

CINNAMON

Cotta Rd

COUNTRY
. . . . . . . . GARDENS
. 130 Around Polonnaruwa
Viharamahadevi

Habarana . . . . . . . . . . . . .201
WEST COAST. . . .
. . . . 74 Colombo
to Kandy . . . . . . (COL
. 132 7) &Hort
on Pl
National #
Kollupitiya #
5
s
Ritigala
Ruins . . . . . . . . . . 202
e
Museum
Kandy
. . . .A. lb
. .e.r.t .C.r. . . . . . . 133
NORTH OF
COLOMBO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Around Kandy . . . . . .a. . . . . 146 Anuradhapura . . . . . . . . . . 202
ETUL
KOLLUPITIYA
M
Kalpitiya &
(COL
3) of Kandy . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Mihintale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211KOTTE
East
Dutch Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Padeniya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .KOSWATTA
214
Adams Peak
Kalpitiya to
(Sri Pada) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150w Panduwasnuwara . . . . . . . . 215
Negombo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
M
Kitulgala . . . . . . . . . . . . .a.lo. k. a153 Ridi Vihara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
h
Negombo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
d
ud
Kurunegala . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
Kandy to
Ba
Narahenpita
Around Negombo . . . . . . . . .82 Nuwara Eliya . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
INDIAN
Train Station
7
Barefoot #
OCEANOF
SOUTH
d EAST

#. . . . . . . . . . 217
Nuwara Eliya . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 THE
R
ya
Bambalapitiya
COLOMBO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
# Horton
y Monaragala
Plains
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
s
Apollo
ga
Aluthgama, Bentota
National Park &
Hospital ELADUMA
iri
b
Around
F
m
i
& Induruwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 BAMBALAPITIYA
Colombo
Worlds End . . . . . . . .T.h. . . . 163 Monaragala
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
(COL 4)

#
Hikkaduwa &
Belihul Oya . . . . .HAVELOCK
. . . . . . . . 165 Arugam Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Haputale . . a. n. 's. .R. d. . TOWN
. . . . 5)
. . 165 North of
m
(COL
Dick
Bandarawela . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Arugam Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . .226
THE SOUTH . . . . . . . . . 93
#

Ella . . . . . . . . . . . .Kirillapone
. .Canal
. . . . . . 170 South of Kirillapone
Halting Pl
Galle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
Around Ella
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Arugam Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . .227
PAMANKADE
Around Galle . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229
Badulla
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Ampara
WELLAWATTA
High L
Unawatuna . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
eve . . . . . . . . 230
(COL
l
Wellawaya
. . .6)
. . . . . . . . See
. . . Bambalapitiya
175 Around Ampara
Wellawatta
Unawatuna to
& Wellawatta
6
#
Nugegoda
Batticaloa
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Map (p62) KIRILLAPONE
# Bombay

Koggala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Embilipitiya

Train
Around
Uda
Walawe
National
Station
Sweet
e
Ahangama & #
. . . . . . . . . . . .234
#
Park
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 BatticaloaTo. .Ratnapura
0Midigama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
2 km . . . . . . Mahal
To Mt Lavinia (2.5km)
0
1 mile
Trincomalee(90km)
. . . . . . . . . . . . .235
Sinharaja
Forest
Weligama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Uppuveli &
Mirissa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Nilaveli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .238
Colombo
Matara
. . . . . . . .Highlights
. . . . . . . . . 113 THE ANCIENT
Matara
to Tangalla
. . . . . . 115 4
in the .restoration
Strolling
Enjoying
1 Revelling
JAFFNA
& a traditional
CITIES
. . .the
. . .ancient
. . . . . . 181 6
of the historic
)
quarters of Slave Island and
Indian sweet at Bombay
Tangalla
. . . . .Fort
. . . . area
. . . . .(p
. .29
117
Matale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 THE NORTH . . . . . . . .243
Union Place (p33) before they Sweet Mahal (p49), one of
into the
2 Plunging
Bundala
National
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .245
Nalanda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Vavuniya.
locally beloved candy
commercial
Park
. . . . . . madness
. . . . . . . . .of. .the
. . 121 fall to new glitzy developments many
Mannar
Island
& Rd
shops
along
Galle
Dambulla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
shops, stalls and markets
Tissamaharama
. . . . . . . . of
. 122 5 Walking through Sri
Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247
Lankas
ages-old Pettah (p29)
Sigiriya .history
. . . . . . in
. . the
. . . . . . . . 188 7 Shopping at creative
Around
Jaffna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248
remarkable
National
3 Catching sunset
Polonnaruwa
. . . . . . . . . . . . 192 local stores such as Odel and
Tissamaharama
. . . .amid
. . . . . 126 Museum
Barefoot
(p51), where
can
(p34), which is
Jaffna
Peninsula
. . . . . you
. . . .259
families and courting couples
Giritale
. . . .citys
. . . . .heart
. . . . .near
. . . 198 browse some of Sri Lankas
YalaColombos
National Park
. . . . .Galle
. 127 right
in the
on
front .lawn,
Jaffnas Islands. . . . . . . . . . 261
Mandalagiri Vihara
. . . . . . . .200 most interesting merchandise
Park
Kataragama
. . 33
. . ). . . . . . . . . 128 Viharamahadevi
Face
Green (p
lock
ve
Ha

Rei

e Rd
Gall

dA
ve

itl
a

nd

DS Senanayake Mw

Cr

Park

R
ife

Rd

Elvitigala Mw

Rd

Gulf of Mannar

Mannar
Talaimannar Island

800'N

830'N

Puttalam

Kalpitiya

Mankulam

Medawachchiya

Vavuniya

Mullaittivu

Habarana

Mihintale

Uppuveli

Minneriya
National
Park

Mutur

Trincomalee

Nilaveli

BAY OF
BENGAL

Polonnaruwa

Kaudulla
National Park

North Central Province

Anuradhapura

8100'E

Jaffna
Towering Hindu temples and the
sweet fragrance of fruit trees (p248)

8030'E

Northern Province

Kilinochchi

Pooneryn

Jaffna
Lagoon

8000'E
Point Pedro

Jaffna

Palk Bay

Neduntivu

Anuradhapura
Huge centre of cultural
and religious heritage (p202)

900'N

INDIA

Rameswaram

930'N

Nainativu

Karaitivu

Palk Strait

7930'E

Sri Lanka
0
0

Polonnaruwa
Intricately carved buildings and
monuments from a thousand
years ago (p192)

450m

900m

1500m

2100m

8200'E

50 km
30 miles

Top Experiences

ELEVATION

8130'E

600'N

Bentota

Akuressa

Deniyaya

Sinharaja
Forest
Reserve

Pelmadulla

Belihul Oya

Ratnapura

Bundala
National Park

Kirinda

Arugam Bay
The heart of Sri Lanka's
nascent surf scene (p220)

Arugam Bay

Pottuvil

Uda Walawe National Park

Buffalo, sambar deer, crocodiles,
masses of birds and elephants (p176)

Yala National
Park

Kataragama

Bundala National Park

One of Sri Lanka's finest
birding destinations (p121)

Tissamaharama

Panama

Akkaraipattu

Horton Plains & Worlds End

Wild and windswept
moorlands (p163)

Ampara

Batticaloa

Okanda
Kumana
National Park

Province
of Uva

Maligawila

Monaragala

Senanayake
Samudra

Maha Oya

Eastern
Province

Haputale
Wellawaya

Embilipitiya

Tangalla

Badulla
Ella
Bandarawela

Uda Walawe
National Park

World's
End

Horton Plains
National Park

Unawatuna
Matara
Weligama
Mirissa

Galle

Hikkaduwa

Induruwa

Aluthgama

Western
Province

Mt Lavinia

Adam's Peak
(Sri Pada)
(2243m)

Kitulgala

Southern
Province

Karawanella

Kandy

Knuckles
Range
(1863m)

Central Province

Sigiriya
Dambulla

Nuwara Eliya

Polgahawela

Matale

Province of
Sabaragamuwa

Avissawella

Mirissa
See blue whales
on a boat excursion (p111)

Galle Fort
A colonial-era fort,
good for wandering (p95)

Adam's Peak
A beautiful walk to where Adam
first set foot on Earth (p150)

630'N

Padeniya

Kurunegala

Gampaha

North
Western
Province

Negombo

Ja-Ela

COLOMBO

Kandy
The cultural capital
of the island (p133)

Colombo
Colonial charms and
fascinating shopping (p46)

700'N

730'N

INDIAN
OCEAN

Sigiriya
A stunning rock
surrounded by gardens (p188)

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of

adventure. In 1972 thats all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but
inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week theyd sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has oces in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 sta and writers. We share Tonys belief that a great guidebook
should do three things: inform, educate and amuse.

OUR WRITERS
Ryan Ver Berkmoes
Coordinating Author, Colombo, The Ancient Cities Ryan Ver Berkmoes first
visited Sri Lanka in 2005 after the tsunami, when he covered the aftermath as a
journalist. Impressed then at Sri Lankans resilience, hes only more impressed
now as the island emerges from its long time in the shadows. On his visits since,
he has criss-crossed this beautiful island looking for the best rice and curry ever.
Hes had some great ones but this sort of quest should never end. O-island,
Ryan lives in Portland, Oregon and writes about travel and more at ryanverberkmoes.com.
Read more about Ryan Ver Berkmoes at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/ryanverberkmoes

Stuart Butler
West Coast, The South, The Hill Country English-born Stuart Butler first hit Sri
Lanka during a long trans-Asia surf trip many years ago. One wave and one curry
and he was hooked. Since then the food, beaches, wildlife, waves, people and
hills have called him back many times. He now calls the beaches of southwest
France home. In addition to Sri Lanka his travels have taken him across South
Asia and beyond, from the desert beaches of Pakistan to the coastal
jungles of Colombia. He still waxes lyrical over Sri Lankan curries. Read about his travels on
http://stuartbutler-journalist.blogspot.com.
Read more about Stuart Butler at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/stuartbutler

Amy Karafin
The East, Jana & the North For almost 20 years Amy Karafin has been meditating and reading the ancient Pali texts first written down in Sri Lanka. Shes
also been fascinated by Tamil culture since living in a hut in Tamil Nadu on her
first South Asia journey in 1996. The North and East, with their long histories
of spiritual exchange, were a natural fit for her, and she jumped at the chance
to be among the first travellers to visit islands, beaches, temples and natural
springs that had been closed to civilians for decades. When not on the road, Amy lives in Brooklyn, New York.
Read more about Amy Karafin at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/amykarafin

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ABN 36 005 607 983
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
12th edition July 2012
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 700 8
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs as indicated 2012
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in China
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the
written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent
and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such
as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

25

Itineraries

Whether youve got six days or

60, these itineraries provide a
starting point for the trip of a
lifetime. Want more inspiration?
Head online to lonelyplanet.
com/thorntree to chat with other
travellers.

Kandy

# Nuwara

Eliya

COLOMBO

#
_

# Ella

Uda Walawe
National Park

LACCADIVE
SEA

Galle

# Tangalla

Two Weeks

Capital, Coast & Hill Country

Start in Colombo, exploring the markets and visiting the citys vibrant Buddhist
temples. Then take the new Southern Expressway south and youll be in Galle in no
time, avoiding the often trac-clogged road on the west coast and the ho-hum towns
along it. Explore the languid streets of Galles 17th-century Dutch city-within-a-fort.
From Galle, go get some beach time. Tangalla has a growing selection of groovy beach
places on its lovely and uncrowded ribbon of sand. Head inland and venture up to Uda
Walawe National Park, where youll see dozens of elephants and many other animals.
Take the winding road up in the heart of the Hill Country and put down roots for a few
days in Ella, a cool town with a fun travellers vibe. Walk to waterfalls and mountain peaks.
Take one of the worlds most beautiful train rides to the stop for the British colonial heritage town of Nuwara Eliya, where youll enter a time warp. Visit tea plantations and stop
in iconic Kandy for temples and gardens. From here its an easy jaunt back to Colombo or
the airport.

26

Kitulgala

Hatton

# Dikoya

# Maskeliya

# Dalhousie

Monaragala

Ella

Yudaganawa
#
Wellawaya
#

Arugam
Bay

Maligawila

#
Buduruwagala

Kataragama

Tissamaharama
#

Tangalla

National
Park

Mirissa

Yala
#

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

COLOMBO

#
_

LACCADIVE
SEA

Three Weeks

Hilltops & Beaches

Start in Colombo, where you can absorb some of Sri Lankas newfound energetic
vibe before you head right o the map almost. Kitulgala is a gateway for rafting
the Kelaniya Ganga, as well as for jungle hikes and birdwatching. Movie bus might
recognise scenes from Bridge on the River Kwai here. Take the short hop to misty
Hatton, Dikoya and Maskeliya, three small towns in some of the most scenic parts of the
Hill Country. Spend a few days tasting fragrant single-estate teas and bed down in luxurious ex-colonial tea planters bungalows, or cosy guesthouses in Dalhousie, the traditional
starting point for the pre-dawn ascent of Adams Peak.
Head east to Ella for more hiking, wonderful views and guesthouses renowned for having some of Sri Lankas tastiest home-cooked food.
Travel southeast to Monaragala, a low-key gateway to the east and the jumping-o
point for one of Sri Lankas most atmospheric ancient Buddhist sites at Yudaganawa.
Also nearby, Maligawila is home to an 11m-tall standing Buddha thats over a thousand
years old.
Continue east to Arugam Bay, with its easygoing surfers vibe, excellent seafood and few
travellers compared with the southern beaches. Its easy to spend an extra day or three here,
swinging in a hammock at one of the beach guesthouses. Dont miss a boat trip exploring
the nearby Pottuvil Lagoon. After a few days on the beach, veer back inland via Monaragala
to Wellawaya, and find time for a brief detour to Sri Lankas tallest standing Buddha at
Buduruwagala. Soak up the beauty of the tiny lakes and listen to the birds.
Descend from Wellawaya to the coastal plains of Kataragama, the terminus of the Pada
Yatra, a pilgrimage that begins at the other end of the island. One of Sri Lankas oldest and
most venerated dagobas (stupas) is in nearby Tissamaharama, which is also a convenient
entry point for forays into Yala National Park, where you can spot most of Sri Lankas
iconic critters. From Tissa, beach-hop via Tangalla along the south coast to laid-back
Mirissa, a good base for whale-watching.

27

Keerimalai
#
Spring
Nainativu
#

#
Neduntivu

Jaffna

# Point
Pedro

Bay of
Bengal

Talaimannar

#
Mannar

Gulf of
Mannar

# Wilpattu

National

Kalpitiya

Park

Two Weeks

Emerging Sri Lanka

With peace, parts of Sri Lanka that were o limits or almost o limits for decades
are opening up to visitors, who will be warmly welcomed. Start at Kalpitiya, the
main town on the long finger of land that juts up into the Indian Ocean. The beaches
here are just OK but the kitesurfing and reef diving are spectacular. Hook your way
around north to Wilpattu National Park. This treasure was closed for years during the
war but is now returning to life. It has all of Sri Lankas iconic animals and is very quiet.
Next, explore another spit of Sri Lanka extending into the sea: Mannar is technically an
island but feels like a peninsula. It has white beaches, wild donkeys and incredible beauty.
The remote town of Talaimannar feels like the end of the world. Here a chain of reefs and
islets almost form a land bridge to India.
Hook around again to the Jana peninsula. Jana bears scars of the war, which still
seems like a recent memory here. But the rich Tamil culture is returning and charming
temples on shady backstreets await exploration.
Roads closed for years have reopened and you can visit Keerimalai spring, a sacred site
with legendary bathing pools. Its close to the Naguleswaram Shiva Kovil, which traces its
past to the 6th century BC.
Your next destination is Point Pedro, which is still shaking o the 2004 tsunami but
holds onto traces of a colonial past. There is a long swath of the whitest beach you can
imagine here.
Jana has nearby islands well worth exploring for their sheer minimalistic beauty. Theres
actual sights on Nainativu, which you reach via increasingly unsubstantial causeways and
a ferry. Buddhist and Hindu temples draw the pious to this tiny speck of sand.
Another ferry ride which is half the fun takes you the 10km to Neduntivu, which
some still call by its old Dutch moniker Delft. Its a windswept place beyond the end of the
road and wild ponies roam seemingly deserted streets.

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

Palk
Bay

28
#
Nilaveli
# Uppuveli

# Trincomalee

Quick Southern Jaunt

Culture & Beaches

Vakarai

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

Sigiriya

Dambulla

# Beach

# Kalkudah

# Passekudah

Polonnaruwa

L A C C A D I V E
S E A

Sinharaja
Forest
Reserve
L A C C A D I V E
S E A

Ahangama
Galle
Weligama

#
#
Unawatuna
#
#
#
# Mirissa
Midigama

One Week

One Week

Quick Southern Jaunt

Culture & Beaches

This fast trip will warm even the

most frost-bitten visitor escaping a
frigid winter elsewhere in the world.
Begin your jaunt in Galle: founded
by the Portuguese in the 16th century, it is
one of Southeast Asias best-preserved, fortified colonial cities. Walk the walls at sunset
and enjoy the many cafes cropping up along
streets lined with renovated and delightfully
dilapidated old buildings.
Hit the beach at nearby Unawatuna,
which has an alluring crescent of sand, cafes
overlooking the surf and perfectly blue
waters luring you in. Now find your inner
Tarzan (many of the movies were shot in Sri
Lanka) at the Unesco-recognised Sinharaja
Forest Reserve, Sri Lankas last major tropical rainforest.
Back on the south coast, Sri Lanka has a
fast-breaking surf scene and youll find lessons, board rentals and cheap surfer dives
in Ahangama and Midigama.
Another short jaunt east brings you to
Weligama, which has beach resorts and a
lively fishing village with fascinating markets. Not far away is the sandy gem of the
south, Mirissa, where cute little places to
stay are hidden in the palms.

This tour covers the uncrowded middle of Sri Lanka. Start in Dambulla,
with its series of cave shrines painted
with vivid Buddhist murals. From
here its a short jaunt to Sigiriya, a 200mtall rock outcrop that was once a monastery
and is truly one of the islands most amazing
sights.
Further northeast the former royal capital
of Polonnaruwa oers an inspiring collection of Buddhist sculptures and monastery
ruins dating back nearly a thousand years.
Head due east to the coast and the beaches at
Kalkudah and Passekudah. The former is
a deserted and beautiful broad strip of sand.
The latter is also beautiful and draws locals by
the busload.
Continue your beach adventures 20km
north at one of Sri Lankas hidden gems,
Vakarai Beach. Youre really o the grid
here at this paradise and only have electricity a few hours at night.
Go north again and you are on the idyllic
natural harbour of Trincomalee. It has a
rich history going back centuries that the recent war couldnt erase. Finally, end your cultural and sandy trek at the dual beach towns
of Uppuveli and Nilaveli. Theres much debate about which is better: you decide.

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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