Know Your Herbs

Introduction
What Is An Herb Used For: Learn More About Herb Gardens
By Robin Svedi
In order to know more about herb gardens, it helps to have an understanding of
what an herb is. There are many types of herbs and herb gardens, all having a
number of different uses. Keep reading for information on using herb gardens.
What is an Herb?
Herbs [1] are defined as plants that are useful to humans. Not quite the same as a
vegetable or a fruit, an herb is something we value for a variety of different
reasons. An herb can be useful to us for its flavor, its scent, its medicinal
properties or its use as an insecticide. Some herbs are used as coloring
for dyes [2] or for industrial uses. Herbs have been used for thousands of years
in teas [3]and balms to relieve physical ailments, such as upset stomachs and
stress-induced illness.
Herbs are not only useful to humans, but they are attractive as well. Gardeners
use them as borders for their landscaping, along walkways, and mixed in with
their flowers and shrubs. Cooks use them for the unique flavorings that they
bring to food.
Spices are plants that are used in many of the same ways as herbal plants but
come from tropical regions. Spices are more difficult to grow. Herbs, on the other
hand, can grow quite nicely almost anywhere that has a growing season. Herbs
can be found as annuals (plants that live for one season), biennials (plants that
live for two seasons), or perennials (plants that come back year after year).
What is an Herb Garden?
An herb garden [4] is basically a garden that is being used solely to grow herbs. A
better description of what an herb garden might be is a beautiful and relaxing
place where you can find plants that are not only useful but beneficial to the
enjoyment of life.
An herb garden can be any size or shape and can contain many different types of
herbs or just a few. An herb garden may take up an entire yard or may simply be
planted in a small windowboxcontainer [5]. Herb gardens can be kept indoors on a
sunny windowsill [6] or outdoors in the open breeze. An herb garden design can
also be incorporated into a vegetable garden, with landscape shrubbery, or
mixed in with your flowers.
Types of Herb Gardens
There are many different types of herb gardens and many ways for using herb
gardens, each with their own character and charisma.

Kitchen Herb Garden

A culinary, or kitchen, herb garden [7] will consist of only herbs used for flavorings
in cooking. Most are grown in containers, though they can be grown in the
garden too, nearest the kitchen. It might contain:
[8]

Parsley

Basil

Chives

Oregano

Rosemary

Thyme

[9]

[10]

[11]

[12]

[13]

Fragrant Herb Garden

An aromatic herb garden [14] will consist of herb plants that are highly noted for
their fragrance and used for cut flowers, [15] aromatherapy, or for
making potpourri [16] and scented candles. It might contain herbs like:
[17]

Lavender

Lemon balm

Scented geraniums

[18]

[19]

Herbal Tea Garden

An herbal tea garden [20] will consist of herbs such
as chamomile [21], anise [22], hyssop [23], and assorted mints
into delicious teas.

[24]

that can be brewed

Medicinal Herb Garden

A medicinal herb garden [25] will consist of herbs used for soothing and comfort,
where you might findaloe [26] and feverfew [27]. A word of caution on using herb
gardens for medicinal purposes: while some herbs have been found to be helpful,
other herbs can be harmful if ingested or used improperly. Always check with a
doctor before starting any herbal remedy.
Ornamental Herb Garden
Ornamental herb gardens are prized for their beautiful flowers and unusual
foliage. An ornamental herb garden might contain southernwood [28], sage [29],
and germander [30]. The most popular type of herb garden design consists of
many different varieties of herbal plants, some for cooking, some for fragrance,
some for beauty, and some for just soothing your soul.

With so many wonderful herbs to choose from, the question shouldnt be what is
an herb garden, but rather what is growing in your herb garden?

Allspice Pimenta
What Is Allspice Pimenta: Learn About Using Allspice For Cooking
The name Allspice is indicative of the combination of
cinnamon, nutmeg, juniper and clove essence of the
berries. With this all encompassing
nomenclature, what is allspice pimenta?
What is Allspice Pimenta?
Allspice comes from the dried, green berries
of Pimenta dioica. This member of the myrtle
family (Myrtaceae) is found in the Central
American countries of Guatemala, Mexico, and
Honduras and was presumably brought there
by migratory birds. It is indigenous to the
Caribbean, specifically Jamaica, and was first
identified around 1509 with its name being a
derivative of the Spanish word pimiento,
meaning pepper or peppercorn.
Historically, allspice was used to preserve
meats, generally wild pig called boucan
during the 17th century peak of pirating along
the Spanish Main, leading to them to being labeled as boucaneers, today
known as buccaneers.
Allspice pimenta is also known as pimento although it is not related to the red
pimientos seen stuffed into green olives and swirling around in your martini. Nor
is allspice a blend of spices as its name suggests, but rather a flavor of its own
derived from the dried berries of the this medium sized myrtle.
Allspice for Cooking
Allspice is used for flavoring everything from liquor, baked goods, meat
marinades, chewing gum, candies, and mincemeat to the intrinsic flavoring of a
holiday favorite eggnog. Allspice oleoresin is a natural mixture of the oils of this
myrtle berry and resin often utilized in sausage making. Pickling spice is actually
a combination of ground allspice pimenta and a dozen other spices. Allspice for
cooking, however, may occur with either the powdered or whole berry form.

Allspice for cooking is procured from the drying of the tiny green berries of the
female plant of allspice pimenta harvested along the pimento walks, then often
dried and crushed until powdered and of a rich port wine hue. Whole dried
berries of allspice pimenta may also be purchased and then ground just prior to
use for maximum flavor. The ripe berries of this aromatic fruit are too gelatinous
to use, so berries are picked prior to ripening and may then also be crushed to
extract their potent oils.
Can You Grow Allspice?
With such an extensive repertoire of uses, growing allspice herbs sounds like a
tempting prospect for the home gardener. The question then is, Can you grow
allspice herbs in ones garden?
As previously mentioned, this shiny leaved evergreen tree is found growing in
the temperate climates of the West Indies, Caribbean and Central America, so
obviously a climate that most closely mimics those is most optimal for growing
allspice herbs.
When removed and cultivated in areas with climates dissimilar to those above,
the plant does not usually bear fruit, so can you grow allspice? Yes, but in most
areas of North America, or Europe for that matter, allspice herbs will grow but
fruiting will not occur. In areas of Hawaii where the weather is favorable, allspice
has been naturalized after seeds were deposited from birds and can grow to
heights of 10-60 feet tall.
If growing allspice pimenta in a climate that is not tropical to subtropical, allspice
will do well in greenhouses or even as a houseplant, as it adapts well to
container gardening. Keep in mind that allspice pimenta is dioecious, meaning it
requires both a male and female plant to fruit.

Arnica Plant
Arnica Plant Care: Learn How To Grow Arnica Herbs
A member of the sunflower family, arnica (Arnica spp.) is a perennial herb that
produces yellow-orange, daisy-like blooms in late spring and early
summer. Also known as mountain
tobacco, leopards bane and wolfbane,
arnica is highly valued for its herbal
qualities. However, before you decide
to grow arnica or use the herb
medicinally, there are a number of things
you should know.
Arnica Herb Uses

What is arnica herb for? Arnica has been used medicinally for hundreds of years.
Today, the roots and flowers are used in topical treatments such salves,
liniments, ointments, tinctures and creams that soothe tired muscles, relieve
bruises and sprains, ease the itch of insect bites, soothe burns and minor
wounds, promote hair growth and reduce inflammation. Although the herb is
usually applied topically, homeopathic remedies with highly diluted amounts of
the herb are available in pill form.
Arnica is generally safe when used topically, although products containing arnica
should never be used on broken skin. However, arnica should never be taken
internally except when the doses are small and extremely diluted (and with the
guidance of a professional). The plant contains a number of toxins that can cause
a variety of potentially dangerous results, including dizziness, vomiting, internal
bleeding and heart irregularities. Ingesting large amounts can be deadly.
Arnica Growing Conditions
Arnica is a hardy plant suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 4
through 9 [1]. The plant tolerates nearly any well-drained soil, but generally
prefers sandy, slightly alkaline soil [2]. Full sunlight is best, although the arnica
benefits from a bit of afternoon shade in hot climates.
How to Grow Arnica
Planting arnica isnt difficult. Just sprinkle the seeds lightly on prepared soil in
late summer, then cover them lightly with sand or fine soil. Keep the soil slightly
moist until the seeds germinate. Be patient; seeds usually sprout in about a
month, but germination can take much longer. Thin the seedlings [3]to allow
about 12 inches between each plant.
You can also start arnica seeds indoors. Plant the seeds in pots and keep them in
bright, indirect sunlight where temperatures are maintained at approximately 55
F. (13 C.) For best results, grow the plants indoors for several months before
moving them to a permanent outdoor location after all danger has passed in
spring.
If you have access to established plants, you can propagate arnica by cuttings or
divisions in spring.
Arnica Plant Care
Established arnica plants require very little attention. The primary consideration
is regular irrigation, as arnica is not a drought-tolerant plant [4]. Water often
enough to keep the soil lightly moist; dont allow the soil to become bone dry or
soggy. As a general rule, water when the top of the soil feels slightly dry.
Remove wilted flowers
season.

[5]

to encourage continued blooming throughout the

Angelica Herb
How To Grow Angelica
Next time you have a martini, savor the
flavor and remind yourself it comes from the
Angelica root. Angelica herb is a European
plant that has been a flavoring agent in
many popular types of liquor including, gin
and vermouth. The Angelica plant has a long
history of use as a seasoning, medicinal and
tea. Although not commonly cultivated,
growing Angelica will increase the variety
and interest of flavors in your herb garden.
Angelica Herb
Angelica plant (Angelica archangelica) is closely related to carrots [1] and a
member of the parsley [2]family. The leaves of the plant are simple and
uninteresting but may be dried and used in teas [3] or as a seasoning. The
umbrella-like flowers are particularly showy but only occur every two years and
after bloom the plant often dies. The umbels are white and each spoke of the
flower bears a dangling seed after the blooms are spent. Angelica herb has a
pungent musky scent and sweet flavor that is recognizable in some of your
favorite spirits. The root, leaves and seeds are all useful.
Angelica is a simple rosette in its first year with a small stalk that may grow 1 to
3 feet tall. In the second year the plant abandons the rosette form and grows
larger three sectioned leaves and a 4- to 6-foot stalk. The often used root is a
thick fleshy piece of vegetation that reminds one of a huge pale carrot. Provide
Angelica with plenty of room in the garden as it can spread 2 to 4 feet wide.
Angelica is easy to propagate

[4]

by seeds or division.

How to Plant Angelica

You should plant Angelica annually to ensure a continued supply of the herb.
Angelica plant is considered a short-lived perennial or biennial. It flowers after
two years and then either dies or may hang on for another year or two.
Growing Angelica indoors is optimum in cooler climates. Set the plants out before
they get taller than 4 inches, as they grow a long taproot and transplant is
difficult if they get larger. Angelica herb can also be started from division of the
roots in spring.
Growing Angelica
The herb prefers cool climates and a semi-shady to sunny location. If planted in a
zone with hot summers, a dappled shade location will provide protection for the
heat sensitive plant. Angelica herb thrives in moist fertile soils rich in organic

matter. For best results, plant Angelica in slightly acidic soil. The plant is not
drought tolerant and should not be allowed to dry out.
Angelica herb is easy to care for as long as it is in well drained soil with proper
light exposure. Keep weeds away from the plant and maintain moderately moist
soil. Water the plant from the base to prevent fungal diseases. Cut the stalk at
the end of the first year to promote flowering in the second.
Watch for aphids [5], leaf miners [6] and spider mites
blasts of water orinsecticidal soap [8].

[7]

. Control the pests with

How To Prune Angelica Herbs

Angelica [1] is an herb commonly utilized in Scandinavian countries. It
grows wild in Russia, Greenland, and Iceland. Less commonly seen
here, angelica can be cultivated in the cooler regions of the
United States where it can reach heights of up to 6 feet!
This begs the question, does angelic plant need trimming
and, if so, how to prune angelica herbs?

also

Does Angelica Plant Need Trimming?

Angelica (Angelica archangelica) is also known as garden
angelica, Holy Ghost, wild celery, and Norwegian
angelica. It is an ancient herb used for its medicinal and
magical properties; it was said to ward off evil.
The essential oil contained in all parts of the plant lends itself to a multitude of
used. The seeds are pressed and the resulting oil is used for flavoring foods. The
Lapps not only eat angelica, but use it medicinally and even as a substitute for
chewing tobacco. Norwegians crush the roots for use in breads and the Inuit use
the stalks as you would celery [2].
As mentioned, angelica can get quite tall, so for that reason alone, some
judicious pruning may be advised. While angelica plants are often grown for their
sweet roots, their stems and leaves are also often harvested, which is more or
less simply pruning the angelica. So, how do you prune angelica herbs?
Pruning Angelica
Angelica harvesting may involve the entire plant. Young stems are candied and
used to decorate cakes, the leaves can be used in scented pillows, and the roots
can be cooked with butter and/or mixed with tart berries or rhubarb to cut down
on their acidity.
In the angelicas first growing year, this member of Apiaceae only grows leaves
that can be harvested. Angelic harvesting of leaves should occur in the late
spring or early summer.

Harvesting angelicas tender stems must wait until the second year and are then
candied. Cut the stalks in mid to late spring while they are young and tender.
Another good reason for pruning angelica stems is so the plant will continue to
produce. Angelica that is left to flower and go to seed will die.
If you are harvesting angelica for its roots, do so the first or second fall for the
most tender roots. Wash and dry the roots well and store them in an air tight
container.
Unlike many other herbs, angelica likes moist soil. In nature, it is most often
found growing alongside ponds or rivers. Keep the plant well watered and it
should reward you with years of harvesting.

Propagating Angelica Plants: Growing Angelica Cuttings And

Seeds
While not a conventionally beautiful plant, angelica attracts
attention in the garden because of its imposing nature.
The individual purple or flowers are quite small, but they
bloom in large clusters similar to Queen Annes lace [1],
creating a striking display. Propagating angelica plants is
a great way to enjoy them in the garden. Angelica [2] is
best grown in groups with other large plants. It combines
well with ornamental grasses, large dahlias [3] and
giant alliums [4].
When attempting angelica propagation, you should be aware that growing
angelica cuttings is difficult because the stems usually fail to root. Instead, start
new plants from angelica seeds or divisions of two- or three-year-old plants. The
plants bloom every other year, so plant angelica in two consecutive years for a
constant supply of flowers.
Starting Angelica Seeds
Angelica seeds grow best when planted as soon as they mature. When they are
nearly ripe, fasten a paper bag over the flower head to catch the seeds [5]before
they fall to the ground.
Use peat or fiber pots so that you wont have to disturb the sensitive roots when
you transplant the seedlings into the garden.
Press the seeds gently onto the surface of the soil. They need light to germinate,
so dont cover them with soil. Place the pots in a bright location with
temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees F. (15-18 C.) and keep the soil moist.
If you are propagating angelica plants from dried seeds, they need some special
treatment. Sow several seeds on the surface of each peat pot. They have a low

germination rate and using several seeds in each pot helps insure that seedlings
will germinate.
After sowing angelica seeds, place the peat pots in a plastic bag and refrigerate
them for two to three weeks. Once you bring them out of the refrigerator, treat
them as you would fresh seeds. If more than one seedling germinates in a pot,
clip out the weakest seedlings with scissors.
How to Propagate Angelica from Divisions
Divide [6] angelica plants when they are two or three years old. Cut the plants
back to about a foot from the ground to make them easy to handle.
Drive a sharp spade in to the center of the plant or lift the entire plant and divide
the roots with a sharp knife. Replant the divisions immediately, spacing them 18
to 24 inches apart.
An easier method of angelica propagation is to allow the plants to self-seed. If
you have mulched around the plant, pull the mulch back so that the seeds that
fall will come in direct contact with the soil. Leave the spent flower heads on the
plant so that the seeds can mature. When growing conditions are ideal, the
seeds will germinate in spring.
Now that you know how to propagate angelica, you can continue to enjoy these
plants each year.
Propagating Angelica Plants: Growing Angelica Cuttings And Seeds
By Jackie Carroll
While not a conventionally beautiful plant, angelica attracts attention in the
garden because of its imposing nature. The individual purple or flowers are quite
small, but they bloom in large clusters similar to Queen Annes lace [1], creating a
striking display. Propagating angelica plants is a great way to enjoy them in the
garden. Angelica [2] is best grown in groups with other large plants. It combines
well with ornamental grasses, large dahlias [3] and giant alliums [4].
When attempting angelica propagation, you should be aware that growing
angelica cuttings is difficult because the stems usually fail to root. Instead, start
new plants from angelica seeds or divisions of two- or three-year-old plants. The
plants bloom every other year, so plant angelica in two consecutive years for a
constant supply of flowers.
Starting Angelica Seeds
Angelica seeds grow best when planted as soon as they mature. When they are
nearly ripe, fasten a paper bag over the flower head to catch the seeds [5]before
they fall to the ground.
Use peat or fiber pots so that you wont have to disturb the sensitive roots when
you transplant the seedlings into the garden.

Press the seeds gently onto the surface of the soil. They need light to germinate,
so dont cover them with soil. Place the pots in a bright location with
temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees F. (15-18 C.) and keep the soil moist.
If you are propagating angelica plants from dried seeds, they need some special
treatment. Sow several seeds on the surface of each peat pot. They have a low
germination rate and using several seeds in each pot helps insure that seedlings
will germinate.
After sowing angelica seeds, place the peat pots in a plastic bag and refrigerate
them for two to three weeks. Once you bring them out of the refrigerator, treat
them as you would fresh seeds. If more than one seedling germinates in a pot,
clip out the weakest seedlings with scissors.
How to Propagate Angelica from Divisions
Divide [6] angelica plants when they are two or three years old. Cut the plants
back to about a foot from the ground to make them easy to handle.
Drive a sharp spade in to the center of the plant or lift the entire plant and divide
the roots with a sharp knife. Replant the divisions immediately, spacing them 18
to 24 inches apart.
An easier method of angelica propagation is to allow the plants to self-seed. If
you have mulched around the plant, pull the mulch back so that the seeds that
fall will come in direct contact with the soil. Leave the spent flower heads on the
plant so that the seeds can mature. When growing conditions are ideal, the
seeds will germinate in spring.
Now that you know how to propagate angelica, you can continue to enjoy these
plants each year.

Anise
How To Grow The Anise Plant
One of the strongest flavors available in nature is anise. Anise plant (Pimpinella
anisum) is a Southern European and Mediterranean herb [1] with a flavor
reminiscent of licorice [2]. The plant is attractive with lacy leaves and a profusion
of white flowers and grows as a bushy ornamental herb. Growing anise in the
herb garden provides a ready source of the seed for curries, baking and flavoring
liqueurs.
What is Anise Plant?

Anise flowers are born in umbels like Queen

Annes Lace [3]. The seeds are the useful part
of the plant and
resemble caraway [4] or carrot [5] seeds.
Its easy to grow anise and the feathery
leaves are borne on slightly purple stems.
The plant, which grows just under 2 feet tall,
requires a warm growing season of at least
120 days.
Anise is widely cultivated in many European
and Asian countries but has not been an important crop in the United States. Due
to its delightful appearance and fragrance, there are now many gardeners who
grow anise.
Growing Anise
Anise requires a fairly alkaline soil pH of 6.3 to 7.0 [6]. Anise plants need full sun
and well-drained soil. Directly sow the seed into a prepared seed bed that is free
of weeds, roots and other debris. Growing anise needs regular water until the
plants are established and then can tolerate periods of drought.
Anise plant may be harvested in August to September when the flowers go to
seed. Save the seed heads in a paper bag [7] until they dry enough for the seed to
fall out of the old flowers. Keep the seeds in a cool dark location until spring
sowing.
How to Plant Anise
Growing anise is an easy gardening project and can provide seed for a multitude
of uses.
Anise seeds are small and are easier to sow with a seed syringe for indoor
planting or mixed in sand for outside planting. Temperature of the soil [8] is an
important consideration for how to plant anise. Soil should be workable and 60
F./15 C. for best germination. Space the seeds in rows 2 to 3 feet apart at a rate
of 12 seeds per foot. Plant the seed inch deep in well cultivated soils.
Water the plants after emergence twice a week until they are 6 to 8 inches high
and then gradually reduce irrigation. Apply a nitrogen [9] fertilizer prior to
flowering in June to July.
Anise Uses
Anise is an herb with culinary and medicinal properties. It is a digestive aid and
to help respiratory illness. Its numerous uses in food and beverage span a wide
range of international cuisines. The eastern European communities have used it
widely in liqueurs such as Anisette.
The seeds, once crushed, yield an aromatic oil that is used in soaps, perfume and
potpourris. Dry the seeds for future use in cooking and store them in a glass

container with a tightly sealed lid. The many uses of the herb provide an
excellent incentive to grow anise plant.

Bacopa Plant
How To Grow A Bacopa Plant

Youve probably heard all the buzz about Bacopa and its restorative properties on
TV shows like Dr. Oz. Calming nerves and assisting in a peaceful sleep, we might
all benefit from learning how to grow a Bacopa plant (Sutera cordata). In addition
to the calming effects, growing Bacopa plants adds perky color and finely
textured foliage to the garden bed or nearby hanging basket. Lets find out how
to grow a Bacopa plant.
Bacopa Plant Info
Growing Bacopa trailing annual is simple, with many uses in the sunny to part
shade garden. Bacopa plant info indicates that the small plant reaches no more
than 6-12 inches in maturity. The low-growing specimen spreads vigorously to
cascade over a wall or quickly cover bare spots under taller plants.
The happy Bacopa trailing annual is often covered with tiny flowers from June
through October. Flowers are in shades of white, pink, lavender, blue and even
coral red. The cultivar Giant Snowflake has larger, white flowers and reaches
just 3 to 6 inches in height and is one of the original varieties of Bacopa trailing
annual.
When growing Bacopa plants, experiment with different varieties of the hybrids.
Cabana is a newer white-flowering form of the plant that is more compact.
Olympic Gold also has white flowers with variegated leaves of gold and green

that requires a more shaded spot. Bacopa plant info says white flowering
varieties offer the most long-lasting bloom.
Also, when shopping for Bacopa plants, look for the name Sutera on plant labels.
How Do You Care for Bacopa?
Growing Bacopa plants is most easily done in containers. This allows for the
consistent moisture necessary to avoid the interruption of flowering. Use Bacopa
trailing annual as a filler plant in mixed containers and hanging baskets [2].
Grow Bacopa trailing annual in a full sun to part shade location. Bacopa plant
info on how to grow a Bacopa plant advises growing the plant where afternoon
shade is available in the hottest areas.
The tender annual is sometimes bothered by aphids [3], which can be dispersed
with a strong blast of water from the sprayer. If aphids persist on new growth,
treat them with a soapy spray or insecticidal soap [4]. Neem oil [5] is also
beneficial.
Now that youve learned the basics of how do you care for Bacopa and the many
uses for the diminutive, spreading plant, add some to your garden this year.

BASIL
2.1. What Are The Varieties Of Basil: Types Of Basil For
Cooking
All types of basil are members of
the mint family [1] and some basil
varieties have been cultivated for
more than 5,000 years.
Almost all basil varieties
are cultivated [2] as culinary [3] herbs
. When talking about the different
types of basil, most people are
familiar with the sweet basil
varieties used in Italian cuisine, but many different types of basil are
used in Asian cooking as well. What are the varieties of basil? The
following is a list of types of basil.
A List of Basil Types

Lettuce Leaf
Basil

Dark Opal Basil

Lemon Basil

Licorice Basil
Cinnamon Basil

French Basil
American Basil
Egyptian Basil
Bush Basil
Thai Basil [4]
Red Basil
Genovese Basil
Magical Michael
Basil
Holy Basil
Nufar Basil
Purple Ruffles
Basil
Red Rubin Basil

Siam Queen
Basil
Spicy Globe
Basil
Sweet Dani
Basil
Amethyst
Improved Basil
Mrs. Burns
Lemon Basil
Pistou Basil
Lime Basil
Christmas Basil
Superbo Basil
Queenette Basil

Napoletano
Basil
Serata Basil
Blue Spice Basil
Osmin Purple
Basil
Fino Verde Basil
Marseille Basil
Minette Basil
Minimum Basil
Queen Of Sheba
Basil
Fine Verde Basil
Greek Dwarf
Basil
Prao Ka Basil

As you can see, the list of basil types is long. Why not plant [5] a
few types of basil for cooking in yourherb garden [6] this year? See
what these basil types can do to add flavor and fragrance to your
salads, stews and other items on your dinner menu.

2.1. How To Grow Basil

Plants

By Heather Rhoades

Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is often

referred to as the king of herbs.
Basil plants are certainly one of the
most popular herbs grown in the home
garden. Growing basil outdoors or
in a container is very easy to do if
you follow these simple steps for how to grow basil.

Tips for Growing Basil

Choose a location with great drainage. Whether youre growing basil

outdoors in the ground or in a container, the drainage needs to be
excellent.

Choose a location with good sun. Another important thing to

remember for basil plant care is to choose a spot where the basil plants
will get plenty of good sunlight.

Choose growing basil seeds or plants. Will you start by growing basil
seeds [1] or basil plants? Either option is very easy to do when growing
basil outdoors.

If you choose growing basil seeds, scatter the seeds over the location
that you have chosen and lightly cover with dirt. Water thoroughly. Thin to
6 inches apart once the seedling come up.

If you choose growing basil plants, dig a small hole, tease out the root
ball some and plant the basil plant in the ground. Water thoroughly.

Wait till the temperature is right. When growing basil outdoors, it is

very important to remember that basil is very sensitive to cold and even
a light frost [2] will kill it. Do not plant seeds or basil plants until all danger
of frost has passed.

Harvest often. The trick to how to grow basil that is large and abundant
is to harvest often. The more you harvest basil, the more the plant will
grow. When harvesting, pinch off the stem [3] right above where a pair of

leaves are growing. After you harvest, two more stems will start to grow,
which means twice the leaves next time you harvest!

Remove flowers. Once a basil plant flowers, the leaves start to lose their
good flavor. If you remove any flowers, the leaves will get their good flavor
back in just a day or so.

As you can see, proper basil plant care is easy. Knowing how to grow basil
will provide you with large amounts of this tasty herb.

2.2. Why Do Basil Leaves Curl

Under

By Mary H. Dyer, Master Naturalist and

Master Gardener

Help! My basil leaves are curling and I

dont know what to do! Why do basil
leaves curl under? The reason for basil
leaves curling up may be environmental, or
your plant may be diseased or pestered by pests.
Read on to learn more about this frustrating problem.

Reasons for Basil Leaves Curling Up

Generally, growing basil in the garden [1] is easy and stress free. That
being said, problems can and do happen. Basil leaf curl treatment is
dependent on the specific factor causing it. Here are the most common
stressors leading to curling basil leaves.

Sunlight Basil is definitely a sun-loving plant and exposure to less than

six hours of bright light per day may result in distorted foliage or basil
leaves small and curled. Relocating the plant to a sunnier location may
solve the problem.

Water: Too much or too little Basil requires regular water [2], but not
too much. As a general rule, water the plant deeply whenever the top 1 to
2 inches of soil feels dry to the touch, usually once every four to seven
days. However, keep in mind that potted plants may require more frequent
irrigation, especially during hot, dry weather.

Whether the plant is in the ground or in a container, be sure the soil (or
potting mix) is lightweight and drains well. Water at the base of the plant
and keep the leaves as dry as possible.

Diseases Fungal diseases may be the cause of basil leaves curling up,
but chances are, youll notice other telltale signs. For example, powdery
mildew [3] is a fungal disease that causes a grey, powdery substance on
the leaves. The disease is caused when conditions become too moist,
including too much shade or soggy soil.

Fusarium wilt [4], which is usually deadly, can cause brown or distorted
leaves. To prevent moisture related diseases, water basil carefully as
directed above.

Pests Basil is a hardy plant, but it can sometimes be bothered

by aphids [5] and other small, sap-sucking pests such as spider
mites [6] or scale [7]. The pests can be difficult to see, but a close look at the
leaves, especially the undersides, will usually tell the tale.

If you determine your plant is infested with bugs, insecticidal soap spray
usually keeps the pests in check. Be sure to spray when the foliage is in
the shade; otherwise, the spray may scorch the plant. Dont spray when
the temperatures are above 90 degrees F. (32 C.).

2.3. How To Treat Yellow Leaves On Basil Plants

Versatile and easy to

grow, basil [1] is an attractive
culinary herb valued for its
aromatic leaves, which are used
either dry or fresh. Although basil
is usually grown as an annual, it is
suitable for growing year round in
USDA plant hardiness zones 10
and above. Although the herb is
relatively trouble-free, it is
susceptible to certain pests and
diseases that can cause yellowish leaves on basil plants.

What Causes Basil Leaves to Turn Yellow?

There are a number of reasons for a basil plant turning yellow, and
determining the reason isnt always easy.

Improper watering Root rot [2], a result of too much water, is one of the
most common reasons for yellow leaves on basil plants. Water basil [3] only
when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry, and remember that slightly dry
soil is healthier than soggy soil. As a general rule, one deep watering
every seven to 10 days is adequate. If you grow basil in a container, be
sure the pot has at least one drainage hole.

Fungal disease Although several fungal diseases can cause yellow

leaves on basil plants, downy mildew is one of the most common. Downy
mildew [4] is a fast-spreading fungus recognized by yellowish basil leaves
and a fuzzy, gray or brown growth. If you catch the problem early, you
may be able to stop the spread by clipping affected growth. However,
badly affected plants should be removed and disposed of carefully.

Growing conditions Chilly temperatures are another reason for

yellowish basil leaves. Basil prefers daytime temps above 70 F. (21 C.).
Nighttime temperatures should be above 50 F. (10 C.) Lack of sun is yet
another common cause of yellowish basil leaves. Basil prefers bright
sunlight for six to eight hours per day. Basil grown indoors [5] will likely
need artificial light during the winter, ideally for 10 to 12 hours per day.

Aphids Aphids [6] are tiny pests that suck the juice from tender foliage,
thus causing yellow leaves on basil plants. Look for aphids on the

undersides of leaves and on the joints of stems and leaves. Aphids are
easy to control with insecticidal soap, but be careful not to apply the soap
when the sun is directly on the leaves or on hot days, as the soap can
scorch the plant.

Root knot nematodes These small, soil-dwelling pests can cause

yellowish basil leaves and small galls on the roots. The best recourse is to
harvest the plant and use the healthy leaves. Next time, plant resistant
varieties in soil not affected by nematodes [7].

Lack of nutrients Basil is a hardy plant that does well in poor soil, but it
still requires nutrients in order to thrive. Fertilize basil [8] regularly to
prevent yellowish basil leaves, using an all-purpose balanced fertilizer.

2.4. What To Do About A Basil With Woody Stems

Basil is a wonderfully versatile

annual herb that is native to
southern Asia and the islands of
the South Pacific. As with other
herbs, basil is easy to
grow [1] and with ideal conditions
quite prolific. Even so, basil
plants can have a number of
issues; among these are basil
plants with woody stems. If you
have basil stems turning into
wood, read on to learn about troubleshooting woody stems in basil.

How to Avoid Basil with Woody Stems

Basil, Ocimum basilicum, is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family.

Basil is grown primarily for its tender, young leaves which are used either
fresh or dried in Asian and European foods. Proper planting and ongoing
care of basil gives it the best chance to flourish and avoid disease and
pests.

Basil, like most herbs, likes lot of sunshine, at least six to eight hours per
day. Propagation by seed is simple. You can direct sow into the garden
after all danger of frost has passed or start seeds early indoors (six to
eight weeks prior to planting outside). Sow the seeds evenly and cover
them with -inch of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5 [2]. Within five to
seven days, youll see the seedlings begin to emerge.

Keep the seedlings moist but not drenched or they may develop a fungal
disease called damping-off[3]. When the seedlings have two or three pairs
of leaves, thin them or transplant them 6-12 inches apart. Mulch around

the plants with grass clippings, straw, compost or ground leaves to help
retain moisture and retard weeds.

Water the basil [4] every seven to 10 days, depending upon rainfall. If the
plants are in containers, they may need additional water.

Lightly fertilize basil [5] with a 5-10-5 food once or twice at the rate of 3
ounces for every 10 feet of planting space. Use a liquid fertilizer at half the
recommended strength every four to six weeks forindoor basil [6] and every
three to four weeks for basil that is grown outside in containers.

Follow all of the above and you should have an abundance of lovely,
aromatic basil leaves to harvest. But what happens if you start getting
woody basil plants?

Troubleshooting Woody Stems in Basil

Basil, unlike some plants, actually loves to have a little taken off the top.
You can harvest as soon as the plant is a few inches tall. Snip young leaves
or, if you are harvesting an entire stem, cut above a pair of leaves. This
encourages new growth at the cut which should be visible within a week.
Keep trimming the basil throughout the growing season to encourage
growth.

If you cant use the basil immediately, hang stems to dry or freeze the
basil in ice cube trays for later use. Puree the basil with either a little
water or olive oil, put the puree in the tray, freeze, and then pop them out
and store the cubes in the freezer in an airtight container for later use.

The important thing is to keep pruning your basil [7]. If you dont, the plant
will flower [8] and form seed which, in turn, causes the stems to become
woody. The leaves will turn bitter [9] as well. If youre growing the basil as
an ornamental for its attractive foliage and flowers, then you probably
dont care if the basil stems are turning into wood. If, however, you love
those succulent young leaves, keep snipping. Old stems that have not
been cut back also turn woody just as a plant that has been allowed to
flower.

Do keep in mind that basil is an annual. You can extend its life a bit by
bringing the plant inside when the weather begins to get cold, but it will
eventually die. Woody basil plants simply mean that the plant is protecting
itself from the dipping temps. If you bring it inside, give it plenty of light.
Production will slow in the winter, but you should still be able to harvest
some delectable fresh basil leaves to enliven your winter meals.

2.5. Fertilizing Basil Plants: How And When To Feed

Basil

If youre tempted to toss a handful of

fertilizer at your basil plant [1] in hopes of
creating a full, healthy plant, stop and
think first. You may be doing more harm
than good. Basil plant feeding requires a
light touch; too much fertilizer may create
a big, beautiful plant, but the quality will
be badly compromised, as fertilizer
decreases the all-important oils that give
this herb its distinctive flavor and aroma.

Fertilizing Basil Plants

If your soil is rich, your plants may do just fine with no fertilizer at all, or
you can dig an inch or two of compost or rotted animal manure [2] into the
top 6 to 8 inches at planting time.

If you think the plants need a little extra help, you can use a very light
application of a dry fertilizer once or twice during the growing season. The
best fertilizer for basil is any good quality, balanced fertilizer.

If youre wondering when to feed basil growing in containers, the answer is

once every four to six weeks for indoor plants [3] and every two to three
weeks for basil in outdoor pots. Instead of a dry fertilizer, use a watersoluble fertilizer mixed at half strength.

You can also use an organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion [4] or liquid
seaweed. Mix and apply the fertilizer according to label recommendations.

How to Fertilize Basil

To feed in-ground basil using a dry fertilizer, sprinkle the fertilizer lightly on
the soil around the plants, then scratch the granules into the soil with a
spade or garden fork. Be careful not to get the dry fertilizer on the leaves;
if you do, rinse it immediately to prevent burning.

Water the plant deeply to prevent damage to the roots and to distribute
the fertilizer evenly throughout the root zone.

For containerized basil plants, simply pour the diluted, water-soluble

fertilizer onto the soil at the base of the plant.

2.6. Why Does Basil Wilt: How To Fix Droopy Basil

Plants

Basil [1] is a sun-loving herb valued for

bright green foliage and distinctive
flavor. Although basil is usually easy to
get along with, it can develop droopy
leaves that can ultimately shorten the life
the plant. Read on to learn more about
why your basil is starting to wilt and what
can be done about it.

its

of

Why Does Basil Wilt?

Healthy basil plants require at least

eight hours of sunlight every day, well-drained soil, and enough space to
allow for plenty of air circulation. If you are meeting the plants basic
needs and your basil plant keeps falling over anyway, there may be a
more serious problem.

Fusarium Wilt

Basil plant droop that appears suddenly on young plants is often caused
by fusarium wilt [2], a fungal disease that causes stunted growth and
droopy, wilted or yellow leaves. The first signs of trouble are decreased
growth and leaves with a cupped appearance. Eventually, leaves may drop
from the plant.

Fusarium wilt is difficult to manage and can remain in the soil for eight to
12 years. If you suspect your plant is infected with fusarium, youll
probably have to start fresh with a new plant in a completely different
location.

Prevention is the best solution for fusarium wilt. Purchase healthy, diseaseresistant plants. If youplant basil seeds [3], be sure the package indicates
the seeds are fusarium tested.

Root Rot

Root rot [4] is another common reason for droopy basil plants. Rot is a
water-borne disease generally caused by improper irrigation or poorly
drained soil. Let the soil dry slightly between watering, but dont allow it to
become bone dry.

If the basil is in a pot, ensure the plant drains thoroughly after watering
and never let the pot stand in water.

Leaf Spot

If your basil plant is starting to wilt and you notice brown, water-soaked
spots on the leaves, it may be infected by various fungal diseases known
as leaf spot [5].

Remove affected leaves at the first sign of infection. To prevent the

disease, water at the base of the plant and never use a sprinkler or spray
attachment. If the disease isnt serious, a fungal spray may help.

Pests

Aphids [6], spider mites [7] and other insects can suck the sap from aphids,
which may cause droopy leaves. Most sap-sucking insects are easily
removed by spraying the leaves with an insecticidal soap spray.

Use the spray strictly according to directions. Never spray the plant when
the sun is directly on the foliage, or when temperatures are above 90
degrees F./32 degrees C.

2.7. Cold Tolerance Of Basil: Does Basil Like Cold

Weather

Arguably one of the most popular

basil is a tender annual herb native
to the southern regions of Europe and
Asia. Just as with most herbs, basil
thrives in sunny locations that receive
least six to eight hours of light per day.
Since this is critical when growing
basil, you may wonder, Does basil
like cold weather? Read on to learn
more.

herbs,

at

Does Basil Like Cold Weather?

Basil [1] is an easy and popular herb to grow, especially common or sweet
basil (Ocimum basilicum). This member of the mint family is grown for its
sweetly scented leaves used either fresh or dried that compliment a
variety of foods.
A member of the mint or Lamiaceae family, basil is usually grown as a
tender annual. Generally, its growth cycle doesnt include overwintering;
rather it dies down and the hard seeds wait in the ground over winter and
then germinate during the spring thaw. When temperatures dip, basil
suffers cold damage almost immediately in the form of blackened leaves.
Therefore, basil and cold weather do not gibe. If, however, you are the
lucky owner of a greenhouse [2] or live in a region where temps may dip
but long hours of sun prevail, it is possible to try and over winter your basil
baby indoors.

Basil Cold Hardiness

The cold tolerance of basil begins to suffer when the mercury drops into
the 40s but really affects the plant at 32 degrees F. (0 C.). The herb may
not die, but basil cold damage will be in evidence. Keep in mind the cold
tolerance of basil and wait until overnight lows are above 50 degrees F. (10
C.) before setting out transplants. If you set them out prior to temps in the
50s, youll either have to dig them back up or cover them to protect this
tender herb from cold snaps.

It is also advisable to mulch 2-3 inches of grass clippings, straw, compost

or ground up leaves around the basil plants. This will aid in retaining
moisture and retarding weeds, but also protect the plant a bit in the event
of a sudden, short cold snap.

You can also cover the tops of the plants, down to the soil to help trap
heat. If the cold snap really drops the mercury, a string of Christmas lights
beneath the covered basil plants will help retain some heat under their
covering. There may be some minor basil cold damage, but the plants will
likely survive.

Basil and Cold Weather

Once the mercury falls into the 50s and it seems that it is likely to
continue to dip, make a plan for the basil plants. You may just choose to
harvest as many leaves as possible and dry or freeze them. Or, if there is
plenty of sunshine during daylight hours and temps are over 50 degrees F.
(10 C.) but dip down at night, leave the basil outside during the day and
then move it indoors at night. This is a temporary situation and will
prolong the life of the plant, but it will eventually expire as temperatures
continue to drop.

Lastly, you may want to try to get the basil to survive the winter so you
will have fresh leaves year round. In this case, you will need to pot the
basil and bring it inside [3]. Remember, basil requires lots of light six to
eight hours of direct sun or ten to 12 hours under artificial light. Also, basil
is still an annual and as such, it will eventually flower and die, even when
brought indoors. That is its life cycle.

Additionally, if you do not have the light or space to try and over winter
the herb, you can take tip cuttings from the basil and root them in small
containers [4] kept on the windowsill. Youll have to keep an eye on the
cuttings, as they tend to grow towards the light and may come in contact
with a frosty window, which will result in blackened leaves.

2.8. Basil Care After Season: Can You Keep Basil

Through Winter

Most herbs thrive in sunny Mediterranean-like conditions in well-draining

soil. Certainly one of the most popular herbs, basil [1] is a tender annual in

most cases. With that thought in mind, at the end of season basil harvest,
can you keep the basil through winter?

Will Basil Die Over Winter?

As previously mentioned, basil is an annual in most cases. Specifically,

sweet basil, the popular variety of basil grown for use in the most sublime
pesto sauces, is an annual. There are a couple of other varieties of
basil [2] that are hardier and tend towards a perennial life cycle.

Generally, the end of summer or first part of fall heralds the end of season
basil harvest, but is there a way to extend basils life at the end of the
season? You can try to keep basil through the winter. However, sweet basil
is meant to live its life cycle within one year and thereafter go to seed. At
the end of the season, though, you can try to keep it alive by
moving potted basil indoors [3].

Unless you are moving and growing the herb in a greenhouse [4], the hot
temperatures and direct sunlight that basil thrives in are not usually found
in the average persons home, so be sure to provide as much light as
possible; artificial lighting for 10-12 hours a day during the darker winter
months. Even so, the plant may linger for a time, but it will succumb at
some point. With this knowledge, it is best to be prepared to either
purchase another plant or start your own from seed [5]in the spring.

Basil Care After Season

Since basils sweet, fresh flavor is fleeting, its wise to have a game plan
for basil care after season. That is, how are you going to utilize all that
fresh basil while its at its peak and at the final harvest?

Basil is best used fresh. That said, it is also pungent when dried. Using a
dehydrator or simply preserving the foliage by air drying in a warm, dry
well ventilated room for a week or so is a great way to extend the life of
this herb. Once the herb has dried, remove the leaves from the stems and
store the leaves either whole or ground in an airtight container away from
heat and bright light. Stored in this manner, dried basil [6] will keep for one
year.

A better method for storing and utilizing fresh basil leaves is by freezing
the herb [7]. Freezing basil allows you to keep the brilliant green color
which complements food so beautifully, while drying the herb turns it to an
unpleasant brown. Freezing your basil also results in a flavor more akin to
fresh. You can freeze entire leaves in small batches in small plastic bags or
chop them and place them in an ice cube tray with a bit of water. Or, mix
the chopped basil with a bit of olive oil and then freeze in ice cube trays.

Once frozen, remove the cubes of basil and store in airtight containers in
the freezer for future use. You can also make some fabulous pesto sauce

and freeze it in batches. Frozen basil will last the same as dried, about one
year.

However, if you decide to store your basil for the post harvest season, do
it! I miss the fresh aroma and tender flavor of fresh picked basil during the
winter. There really is nothing like it, and I pine for spring when I can
cultivate it again.

2.9. Bitter Tasting Basil: What To Do When A Basil Plant

Is Bitter

Herb growing [1] requires a minimum

of care, as the plants are normally
fast growing and many of them
already have some insect resistance
due to the high amounts of essential
oil in the leaves. Still, even these
rather trouble-free plants can end up
with issues. One such problem is
bitter basil leaves.

Bitter Tasting Basil Leaves

A member of the Lamiaceae (mint [2])

family, basil [3] (Ocimum basilicum) is
renowned for its aromatic and sweet
tasting leaves. The herb is cultivated
for the use of these leaves, which
are high in essential oils and impart
delicate flavor and aroma to a
multitude of cuisines. It can be used
either fresh or dried, although most
people agree that dried basil doesnt
hold a candle to fresh basil.

The most common basil grown is Sweet or Italian basil and is responsible
for one of the great sauces of the world pesto. However, there are
many varieties of basil [4] to choose from, imparting unique flavor such as
cinnamon, anise and lemon to the evenings menu. Since basil is usually a
fairly mild, sweet tasting herb, what would cause bitter tasting basil?

Reasons for Basil Going Bitter

Basil is a tender annual best grown in a sunny area with six to eight hours
of direct sun exposure per day. Plant basil in well-drained soil amended
with organic compost.

Basil seeds [5] can be sown directly into the garden after all danger of frost
has passed or started indoors in trays to be transplanted when the
seedlings have at least two leaf sets. Seeds should be barely set beneath
the soil, about inch deep and lightly covered. Water the seeds in.
Germination takes place within five to seven
days. Thin [6] or transplant [7] basil seedlings so they have a space of
between 6 to 12 inches between individual plants.

Container grown basil needs to be watered more frequently, but garden or

container grown basil should be kept moist [8]. Feed your basil herb with an
organic fertilizer.

If you have followed the above instructions and still have bitter basil
plants, the following causes could be to blame:

Pruning

The primary culprit is lack of pruning [9]. Basil needs regular pruning or
cutting back to facilitate a robust, bushy plant with plenty of aromatic
leaves.

Another reason for pruning is to prevent the herb from blooming. Although
blooming basil has ornamental value, in culinary terms it can be a disaster.
Be vigilant and, at the first sign that the plant is trying to bloom, pinch the
flowers off. Basil that is allowed to flower and form seed stops producing
foliage and results in bitter tasting basil leaves.

Pruning can be fairly aggressive, down to just above the lowest two sets of
leaves. Snip at the node, just above a pair of leaves. Aggressive pruning
will prevent the plant from trying to flower as well as engendering more
flourishing foliage. You can prune this severely every three to four weeks.

Variety

If your basil plant is bitter, another reason may just be the variety. With
over 60 varieties of basil available, it is possible, especially if you are not
sure of the cultivar, that you may have planted one with unexpected flavor
profiles.

For instance, a cinnamon basil or spicy globe basil may yield a totally
unexpected flavor, especially when your taste buds were expecting sweet
basil.

2.10. Trimming Basil Leaves: Tips For Cutting Back Basil

Plants

Basil [1] (Ocimum basilicum) is a

member of the Lamiaceae
family, known for outstanding
aromas, and basil is no exception.
The leaves of this annual herb have
a high concentration of essential
oils, making it a piquant addition to
many various cuisines around the
globe. What is the best way of
trimming or pruning back basil plant leaves?

How to Trim a Basil Plant

Basil is grown for its flavorful leaves, which can be used fresh or dried.
However, there is no comparison and fresh is better than dried. There are
a number of different varieties of basil [2], with the most common being
Sweet Basil used to make magnificent pesto sauce.

Basil is a very easy herb to grow and can be started indoors in flats or
outside in the garden after the danger of the last frost has passed. Plant
the seed [3] no deeper than twice the length of the seed in a sunny
exposure. Basil seedlings will emerge within five to seven days and can be
thinned when they have two leaves. Transplant them 12 inches apart and
keep the plants consistently moist.

Basil leaves are quite delicate and barely bruising the leaf releases the
aroma of the essential oils, which quickly begin to dissipate. Therefore,
pruning basil leaves with care is a necessity.

You dont need to prune basil plants when they are still small; wait until
the herb is about 6 inches tall before trimming basil leaves. The more
often you prune the basil plant, the bushier and leafier it becomes.

As soon as flowers become evident, pinch them off so the energy in the
plant stays diverted to foliage growth. If the basil plant is growing
vertically, pinch the leaves from the top to encourage lateral growth. Use
the pinched leaves or dry them [4], so theres no waste. Basil grows
quickly, so even if you dont want to use the leaves right away (gasp!),
keep trimming back the plant when it gets large and bushy.

To harvest basi [5]l, cut the herb back about -inch above a node, 3 inches
from the base of the plant. Leave a few inches of leaves on the plant after
pruning. You can be quite aggressive whenpruning basil plants [6] since, as
already mentioned, they are rapid growers. Even after a major cutting
back, the herb will be ready for pruning again in a few weeks.

Pinching [5] or cutting back basil plants regularly encourages full, bushy
plants. There is no mystery or exact science to cutting back basil plants.
Trim a basil plant every two to three weeks and pinch off the flower buds
as soon as you see them. Trust me, the plant loves this and it will only
encourage more vigorous growth while providing you with plenty of fresh
basil leaves to stretch those culinary wings.

Diseases And Problems With Growing Basil

Basil [1] is one of the most popular herbs to grow, but that doesnt mean
there are no basil plant problems. There are a few basil diseases that can
cause basil leaves to turn brown or yellow, have spots or even wilt and fall
off. Keep reading to learn more about the diseases that can cause
problems with growing basil.

Common Basil Diseases

Fusarium Wilt

Fusarium wilt [2] is among the most common basil

diseases. This basil wilt disease most
commonly affects sweet basil
varieties, but other basil
varieties [3] are still somewhat
vulnerable.

Symptoms of fusarium wilt include:

stunted growth

wilted and yellowing leaves

brown spots or streaks on the stem

severely twisted stems

leaf drop

Fusarium wilt is caused by a fungus that can be carried by either the soil
that affected basil plants have been growing in or by seeds from infected
basil plants.

There is no remedy for fusarium wilt. Destroy infected plants and dont
plant basil or other mint plants in that area for two to three years. Even if
a basil or mint plant [4] cannot be hurt by fusarium wilt, they can carry the
disease and infect other plants.

Bacterial Leaf Spot or Basil Shoot Blight

This basil disease is caused by a bacteria called Pseudomonas cichorii.

Symptoms of bacterial leaf spot [5] are black or brown spots that appear on
the leaves and streaking on the stems of the plant.

Bacterial leaf spot occurs when infected soil is splashed onto the leaves of
the basil plant.

While there is no fix for bacterial leaf spot, you can minimize the damage
by making sure that your basil plants have plenty of air circulation and
that they are watered in a way so that the bacteria is not splashed onto
the leaves.

Downy Mildew

Downy mildew [6] is a relatively new basil disease that has only started to
affect basil in the past few years. The symptoms of downy mildew include
yellow leaves that have fuzzy, grey growth on the undersides of the
leaves.

Downy mildew is aggravated by overly wet conditions, so if it appears on

your basil plants, make sure that you reduce overhead watering and that
the basil plants have good drainage and good air circulation.

Other Basil Plant Problems

The basil diseases listed above are specific to basil plants, but there are a
few other problems with growing basil that can happen. They include:

Root rot

Nitrogen deficiency

Slugs

Thrips

Aphids

[7]

[8]

[9]

[10]

[11]

2.11. Pinching Basil Blooms: Should Basil Be Allowed To

Flower

I grow basil every year [1] in a container on my deck,

enough to the kitchen to easily grab a few sprigs to
almost any culinary creation. Generally, I use it so
that the plant doesnt get a chance to flower, but
often I am remiss in its use and, voila, I end up
delicate blooms on basil. The question is then,
basil be allowed to flower and if so, can you eat
flowers?

Basil Plant Flowering

If your basil plant has flowered, the

question of what to do depends on what you
are growing the herb for. Basil is a member of
the mint [2] family, Lamiaceae, with over 40
known varieties. Most folks grow it for its
aromatic and flavorful foliage, redolent of
and clove with slight peppery notes.

near
liven up
frequently
every so
with tiny
should
basil

mint

Although basil is most often associated with the Mediterranean or Italy,

the herb actually originated in Asia Thailand, Vietnam and parts of India
where it is often grown as a perennial. Because of this broad
connection, basil can be found in almost every cuisine on the planet.

Among the vast varieties of basil [3], Ocimum basilicum, or sweet basil, is
the most commonly grown.Ocimum is derived from the Greek meaning to

be fragrant and thus, is evocative of this plants delicious foliage. Basil

leaves, whether sweet basil or purple, spicy Thai [4] or citrusy lemon basil,
all contain essential oils responsible for their unique flavor nuances. The
foliage is easily bruised, releasing the magnificent perfume. So then,
should basil be allowed to flower?

Blooms on Basil

So, if your basil plant has flowered, is this a good thing or a bad thing? If
you are cultivating basil strictly for its leaves, it is best to remove the
flowers. Pinching basil blooms back [5] will allow all of the plants energy to
stay focused on foliage production, creating a bushier plant with more
leaves and maintaining higher levels of essential oils in the leaves.
Leaving the flowers on basil plants tends to engender a straggly looking
specimen with fewer leaves to harvest.

That said, if you have also been remiss in pinching basil blooms, just snip
them off and, as they are quite pretty, put them in a bud vase to enjoy on
the window sill. Or, you can also sprinkle them on a salad or over pasta to
enliven the dish because, yes, basil flowers are edible. They also make
great tea! You can expect the blooms to taste similar to the leaves, but
with a milder flavor.

If, however, your intent when cultivating basil is for a big batch of pesto,
youll want to pinch back the herb to encourage leaf growth. Pinch off the
flower buds as soon as they emerge. Basil will usually need to
be pruned [6]every two to three weeks and its okay to go at it. The plant
can tolerate a severe pruning which will, in fact, promote growth.

Lastly, fertilize your basil sparingly, as it will actually decrease the fragrant
essential oils, and harvest the leaves in the early morning when they are
at their peak. Dont overreact if the plant blossoms just pinch back the
blooms or, better yet, cut back half the foliage. Use both for dinner and
the plant will double in size within a couple of weeks, healthier and bushier
than before.

2.12. Basil Plant And Flies: Does Basil Keep Flies Away?

Herbal plants have many beneficial properties. Some

herbs are useful companion plants that prevent pest
problems. It is said that basil can keep flies
from pestering you. Does basil keep flies away?
Lets separate the fact from the fiction and get an
answer to the pesky question regarding basil and
flies.

Basil [1] is one of the warm season herbs that are

classics in summertime cooking. The plant requires plenty of sun and heat

but basil can be grown indoors [2] by a southern window for convenience.
There are many varieties of basil [3], adding a twist on the plants flavor in
essences of citrus, licorice, cinnamon and spice.

Flies on Basil

The intense scent and oil in basil and many other herbs are often used to
deter common household pests. The pungent herb seems to repel flies and
basil pest control has been used since ancient times. Basil is intolerant of
cold temperatures and needs a full day of sunlight. The plants are useful
as potted herbs in a sunny, bright kitchen or outside in the warm summer
months around the vegetable or herb garden.

Potted basil plants require well-drained soil and should not be allowed to
stand in a dish of water. Soggy soil attracts small gnats and basil plant
flies which are annoying and difficult to remove.

Outdoor basil plants are susceptible to whiteflies [4] in spite of their ability
to repel domestic house flies. Repeated applications of a horticultural
soap [5] may help get rid of basil plant flies. Basil pest control seems to
have limited effectiveness when the pests are actually on the plant!

Does Basil Keep Flies Away?

Most herbs with strong oil content and scent appear to have some
repellent properties for domestic pests. Basil contains very heady oil and
is useful in the kitchen to keep small gnats and flies out of food.

Small moisture gnats that live in the soil of potted plants are also foiled by
mixing in some dried basil to the soil. The plant doesnt kill flies, but
anything that prevents them from contaminating the kitchen and food and
is non-toxic is a useful product.

In a nutshell, information on basil and flies [6] is more in the form of

folklore. That being said, you can try the basil method because the worst
thing that can happen is you have a fresh lovely herb to use. The best is a
pest-free kitchen.

2.13. Basil Watering Tips: Proper Watering For Basil

Plants

Theres nothing like the scent and flavor of fresh basil

native to India but has been cultivated for centuries
in the Mediterranean and South Asian countries.
Caring for a basil plant isnt tricky but it
does have specific watering needs that vary
the time it is a little sprout to when it
matures to a large bush. A few basil
watering tips are described in detail below.

[1]

Basil is

from

Basil [2] is a tender annual that will not

survive in zones below USDA zone [3] 10, but
it grows beautifully as a summer annual in
all zones down to 4. Basil is generally
planted in May, but you can start it earlier indoors. The plant needs welldrained soil with at least six to eight hours of bright sunlight per day. The
best growth is achieved with 10 to 12 hours of light per day, but this can
lead to the plant drying out if it is potted. Knowing how to water basil
plants will help ensure a high yield of the flavorful leaves over the entire
season.

Watering a Basil Plant

Basil starts should be sown at least six to eight weeks before planting out.
In regions with short growing seasons, this should be even earlier for fully
producing plants. While considered an annual, you can grow basil in a
container and bring it indoors [4] for longer production.

Eventually, this tender herb will flower and die even as a houseplant.
Flowering is discouraged, as it reduces leaf production and flowering is
promoted by drying out. The flowers are pretty but not useful in cuisine,
though they are edible. For this reason, basil plant watering is crucial.

New and established plants require consistent moisture but cannot be left
soggy. It is a fine line that cannot be crossed because overwatering will
cause the plant stems to mildew and rot.

How to Water Basil Plants at Seedling Stage

Plants started indoors in flats should be misted every other day. Watch the
soil carefully for signs of mildew or fungus, as moist, warm earth may form
these potentially damaging conditions. Either one will cause damping
off [5] of the seedling basil. Watering for basil babies provides consistently
damp soil.

At seedling stage they cannot handle a deep watering like adult plants can
whether in the ground or container situations. Use a sprayer or plant
mister to moisten the top layer of soil as the plant germinates and once
you see sprouts. Dont let soil dry out but also dont let soil become soggy
when watering a basil plant.

Watering Established Basil Plants

Seriously, the best basil watering tips include simply to sticking a finger in
the soil. This works especially well for a container-raised plant. Test both
the top of the soil and the drainage holes at the bottom. The top should
feel cool and dry, while the bottom should be cool and moderately damp.

In the ground, this is a bit harder to determine but the plant needs deep
watering at least once per week in full sun situations where the soil drains
well. A novice gardener may want to use a soil moisture meter [6]for basil
plant watering. This will determine if the soil is moderately moist and
prevent over- and under-watering.

Watering for basil plants is generally a weekly chore but management of

the moisture levels is crucial to preventing excess moisture that can cause
rotting and reduced production and appearance.

2.14. Thai Basil Plants: Tips For Growing Thai Basil

Herbs

With their lovely purple stems and purple-veined leaves on a shiny,

dark green background, Thai basil plants are grown not only
their culinary uses but also as an ornamental
specimen. Keep reading for more
information on Thai basil uses.

About Thai Basil Plants

Thai basil (Ocimum

basilicum var. thyrsiflora) is a
member of the mint [2] family and
as such has a particular sweet flavor reminiscent of anise [3], licorice
clove. Popular among the cuisines of Thailand, Vietnam, Laos and
Cambodia, growing Thai basil has a pleasing aroma similar to sweet
basil [4] and is generally used fresh in recipes.

for

[1]

and

Also referred to as Sweet Thai, Thai basil plants grow to a height of

between 12 to 18 inches with leaves 1 to 2 inches long on purple stems
with purple flowers. Like sweet basil, Thai basil is a perennial.

How to Plant Thai Basil

If we look at how to plant Thai basil in the home garden, our first concern
is obtaining the plants. Thai basil can be purchased from the nursery
or started from seed [5]. If the choice is to purchase from the nursery, pick
up a rosemary plant [6] as well. Rosemary and Thai basil work well planted
together as they enjoy similar well-drained soil, water, and fertilization.

Handle the plants carefully, as they are quite delicate. Plant the new basil
in a sunny area, water in and fertilize with a nutrient rich fish
emulsion [7] or seaweed solution two to three times during their active
growing season.

Sun is a key ingredient. Thai basil plants need at least six hours of direct
sunlight to flourish.

Water weekly but keep the water off the leaves; water from the base.
Over-watering will cause the leaves to yellow and drop and under-watering
will make flowers and buds suffer, so it is important to attain a balance
when watering Thai basil [8].

Harvesting Thai Basil

When harvesting [9] Thai basil, remember to be gentle as the leaves bruise
easily and you dont want that to happen until you are going to use them.
Harvest the leaves in the morning when their essential oils are at their
peak and the flavor of the growing Thai basil will be at a premium. Also,
water the Thai basil prior to harvest to intensify the flavor.

Growing Thai basil tends to be more compact than other types of basil [10],
so harvest at the top of a group of leaves; otherwise, the stem will rot. If
you make a mistake, cut the stem [11] all the way back to the next set of
leaves. Unless, you are growing Thai basil as an ornamental, cut the flower
off several days before harvest so the plant can focus all its energy on the
leaves. When you harvest your growing Thai basil plant, take it down to
about 6 inches.

Thai Basil Uses

Now that you have harvested the basil, what are you going to do with it?
Some Thai basil uses are to infuse with vinegar or oil, to flavor Pho with
mint and chilies, make tea, or pair with most any chicken, pork or beef
dish. Recipes online include one for making Thai basil beer and a recipe for
Thai basil pesto with peanuts, rice vinegar, fish sauce and sesame oil,
which will keep in the refrigerator for a week. Yum!

Thai basil is usually used fresh, preferably soon after harvesting, but you
can also chop it up or run it through a food processor and freeze in ice
cube trays. Once frozen, remove from the tray and store in resealable
bags in the freezer for up to two months.

Thai basil may also be used as an aromatherapy treatment by bruising the

leaves and inhaling their aroma. They can also be bruised and rubbed
beneath the eyes and on the forehead for a relaxing reprieve from a long
stressful day.

Basil Plant Leaves: How To Fix Holes In Basil Leaves

A relative to mint [1], basil (Ocimum

basilicum) has become
one of the most popular, easyto-grow [2]and versatile
of garden herbs. All basil is heatand sunloving, regardless of variety.
Originating from India, basil
plant
leaves may be found in a
plethora of cuisines from Italian
to Thai and can be used to flavor
foods, vinegars, oils, teas [3], and
even to scent soap. However, you
may sometimes be surprised to find holes or other basil leaf damage in
basil leaves .

Whats Eating My Basil Leaves?

Generally speaking, basil plant leaves are not susceptible to many issues
as long as you rotate plantings [4] and maintain hygiene surrounding the
plant. That said, you may on occasion notice that something is taking a
nibble or two from your soon-to-be pesto. What basil pests are capable of
this relentless infraction? Lets learn more about the pests associated with
most basil leaf damage.

Holes in Basil Leaves and Basil Pests

When gaps or holes in basil leaves have been discovered, the time for
action is now! The most frequent assaulters of your precious basil plant
leaves are Japanese beetles, slugs and aphids.

Japanese Beetles

Japanese beetles [5] are usually found for around a month during the
summer. They ravage the tender leaf but do not eat the larger veins of the
basil plant, leaving a lacy looking skeleton on your plant. Japanese beetles
can be plucked from the basil plant with your fingers and squished or
dropped into soapy water to dispose. You may also choose to cover plants
with garden fabric to reduce the number of mature insects that feed on
them, which can also include the grasshopper [6].

Slugs or Snails

Slugs, ugh, slugs! Slugs [7] find the basil plant leaves almost as delicious as
you do. They create ragged holes in the basil plant leaves after climbing
up the plant. While basil plants like mulch to help retain the moisture they
enjoy, it is also a conduit for the slugs. To retard those munching slugs, try
sprinkling diatomaceous earth [8] over the mulch. The diatomaceous earth
scrapes the slugs skin and causes it to dehydrate and subsequently die.

Products such as Bayer Advanced Dual Action Snail [9] and Slug Killer Bait,
Sluggo, Escar-Go, and Schultz Slug and Snail Bait must be reapplied after
rain or watering. While not totally nontoxic, these products contain iron
phosphate, which is significantly less harmful to pets, birds and beneficial
insects than the more antiquated metaldehyde-containing products.

Aphids and Soft Bodied Insects

Soft bodied insects such as aphids [10], spider

mites [11] and whiteflies [12] can be eradicated withinsecticidal soaps [13] like
Bonide Multi Purpose Insect Control Soap, Safer Rose and Flower Insect
Killer Concentrate, Safer Insect Killing Soap Concentrate and Concern
Insect Killing Soap Concentrate. Most of these pests will be on the
underside of the basil leaf and must have direct contact with the soapy
spray to effectively eradicate them.

If you are interested in using a more environmentally friendly product, you

may investigate Azadiractin, which is an extraction naturally produced by
the Neem tree, and is also known to gardeners as neem oil [14]. Products
which contain Azadiractin include: Align, Azatin, Neemex and Omazin.
These products provide the gardener with another option for controlling
basil plant marauders.

Finally, remove any basil plant leaves with holes in them to avoid
contaminating the rest of your plant. Chances are good that those
damaged basil plant leaves harbor some type of pest vying for your next
batch of Pesto Genovese.

2.15. Drying Fresh Basil: How To Dry Basil From Your

Garden

Basil [1] is one of the most versatile herbs and can give you big yields in
sunny summer weather. The plants
leaves are the main component of
the
flavorful pesto sauce and are
used fresh in salads,
sandwiches, and many other
recipes. The fresh leaves are
used throughout the growing
season but the plant will die
back as soon as temperatures
begin to cool. Drying basil is an
easy way to save the delicious leaves and provide you with that summer
taste even in winter.

How to Dry Fresh Basil

Dry basil has a more intense flavor when it is fresh but it degrades
quickly. Dried herbs [2] are generally three to four times stronger than the
fresh herb. The leaves have high moisture content and need to dry quickly
to prevent molding. Air has to circulate freely around both sides of the leaf
for the fastest drying. Drying fresh basil is an easy way to preserve the
fresh lemony-anise to spicy-pepper flavor of the herb.

The first step in how to dry fresh basil is the harvesting [3]. Herbs that are
harvested for drying should be harvested in the morning just after the dew
has air-dried the leaves. Cut the herbs from the plant before it gets too
hot. Remove the stems back to inch above a growth node. This will
allow more leaves to flush at the cut point. Harvest more than you would
use when drying basil because the leaves will reduce in size by more than
half.

There are two quick and effective methods of drying basil. You can cut
stems around 6 inches long and bind them together in small bunches to
hang dry. Place a paper bag around the bundles, which has holes punched
in it. Hang the drying basil in a dimly lit to dark room with low humidity
and warm temperatures. The bag will catch dry bits of the leaves as they
fall off. You can also dry basil in a food dehydrator. Lay each leaf in a
single layer on the racks and allow them to dry in the machine until
completely crisp.

A super fast method of drying basil uses the microwave. Use caution to
prevent the herbs from scorching. Lay the leaves in a single layer on paper
towels and microwave on low for up to 3 minutes. Check them every
minute and remove any that are dry to prevent burning.

Storing Dry Basil Leaves

Dried herbs will lose flavor over time and excess light increases this
process. It is best to store them in a cupboard or dark pantry where light
cannot penetrate. The container for storage must be dry and air tight.
Remove stems and flowers if they were dried with the leaves. Crumble the
leaves into containers so they are ready to use in recipes. A rule of thumb
is to use one-quarter to one-third the amount of fresh basil leaves listed in
a recipe.

Tips For Propagating Basil

There are plenty of herbs that you can

plant in your herb garden, but the
easiest herb to grow, tastiest and most
popular has to be basil [1]. There are a
couple of ways for propagating basil
plants and both of them are quite
simple. Lets look at how to propagate
basil.

Planting Basil Seeds

When it comes to planting basil seeds [2],

make sure youre planting basil seeds in
area where they will get six to eight hours of sunshine daily.

an

The soil should have a neutral pH [3] so that they have the best chance of
growing. Simply plant the seeds in a row and cover with about 1/4-inch of
soil. Once the plants grow to a few inches in height, thin them out to 6 to
12 inches apart.

Planting Basil Seeds Indoors

You can plant your basil indoors [4] as well. Be sure the pot is placed in an
area where it will get daily sunshine and water your basil every seven to
10 days.

How to Propagate Basil from Cuttings

Basil propagation from cuttings [5] is quite simple. In fact, propagating basil
is one way to share your basil with your friends. All you need to do is take
a 4-inch basil cutting right below a leaf node. Remove the leaves off the
basil cutting about 2 inches from the end. Make sure the basil cutting is a
piece that has not yet flowered.

Your basil cutting can then be placed in a glass of water on the windowsill
where it can get good sunlight. Use a clear glass so you can watch your
basil propagation grow roots. Change the water every few days until you
see root growth, then leave your basil propagation roots to grow to about
2 inches or so. This can take two to four weeks.

Once the roots on your basil cutting are 2 inches or longer, you can plant
the cutting in a pot indoors. Put the planter in a place where the plant will
get direct sunlight.

Basil propagation is a great way to share your basil. Now that you know
how to propagate basil, you can take new plantings and give them as gifts
to friends or offer them to new neighbors as housewarming gifts.

Growing Basil Seeds How To Plant Basil Seeds

One of the tastiest and easiest herbs to

grow is Ocimum basilicum,
or sweet basil. Basil plant seeds
are a member of the Lamiaceae
(mint [1]) family. It is mostly grown for
leaves, which are used dried or
fresh in many different Asian or
Western dishes. Basil plant seeds are
also used in some Thai foods.

its

How to Plant Basil Seeds

It is easy to learn how to plant basil seeds. Basil should be grown in a

place that gets sunshine at least six to eight hours per day. The soil should
be well-drained with a pH of 6-7.5 [2]. You might wonder, When do I plant
basil seeds? Basically, the best time to plant basil seeds is when all
danger of frost [3] has passed in the spring. Every area has a different
climate, so when to plant basil seeds can differ from state to state.

Growing basil seeds is not that difficult. Just sow basil plant seeds evenly
by covering them with about -inch of soil. Keep the soil moist and make
sure you remove any weeds.

The growing basil seeds should germinate within a week. The seedling can
be recognized by D-shaped seed leaves that will have the flat sides facing
toward each other. Once you see a few more pairs of leaves, you should
thin the basil plants to be about 6 to 12 inches apart.

Growing Basil Seeds Inside

If you have wondered how to be successful planting basil seeds inside, it

can be done about six to eight weeks before you would normally plant
them outside so you can get a good head start on the basil plant growing
season. You might want to do this if you are growing basil seeds like
Purple Ruffles, which is a slow-growing variety.

You will want to make sure you water your basil every seven to 10 days to
make sure your plants get enough water. This depends, of course, on the
amount of rainfall in your area. Remember that, when growing basil seeds,
container plants will dry out quicker than those you plant in the garden, so
remember to water them as well.

Once your basil plant seeds are fully grown, it is nice to pick the leaves
and let them dry so you can use them in sauces and soups. Basil is
wonderful with tomatoes [4], so if you have a vegetable garden, be sure to
include planting basil seeds among the vegetables [5]. Further, no herb
garden is complete without basil, and it is one of the easier herbs to grow
and keep healthy.

Information On How To Grow Basil Indoors

While basil is a commonly grown herb outdoors [2], this easy-care plant can
also be grown indoors. In fact, you can grow basil inside much the same as
you would in the garden. This wonderfully fragrant herb can be grown for
use in the kitchen, making aromatic oils, or simply for aesthetic purposes.
Lets look at how to grow basil indoors.

Basil Growing Indoors

Growing basil indoors is easy. Container grown basil should be planted in

well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Using the proper soil type is important in
order to successfully grow basil inside. As basil is not tolerant of water
stress, make sure pots provide adequate drainage. While the soil should
be kept somewhat moist, it should never be soggy; otherwise, the roots
will be prone to rotting.

Basil growing indoors will require fertilizing. Depending on the variety

grown and its overall purpose, a general houseplant fertilizer can be used.
As with many houseplant fertilizers, this should be used at half the
recommended strength. However, basil used solely for flavoring foods
requires the use of an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer [3] also helps to
maintain pH levels when growing basil indoors.

Healthy pH levels are another important aspect of quality soil. You

should check the pH levels of soil[4] about once a month or every four to

six weeks for optimal growth. Sufficient pH levels are usually between 6.0
and 7.5.

Best Lighting to Grow Basil Inside

Additionally, when growing basil indoors, lighting is important. Basil

growing indoors requires at least six hours of sunlight. Basil plants should
be placed in a sunny window, preferably facing south. Otherwise, these
potted plants may need to be grown under fluorescent lights [5]. With this
type of lighting, basil plants will need about 10 hours of light for healthy
growth. However, basil grown indoors can also be given both sun and
artificial lighting by alternating so many hours in each.

While growing basil indoors is an easy endeavor, the vigorous growth of

plants may require frequent repotting.

If you follow these few easy tips on how to grow basil indoors, you will be
rewarded with this delicious herb year round.

Sweet Bay Tree

Growing A Bay Tree

By Bonnie L. Grant

Bay leaves add their essence and aroma to our soups and stews, but did
you ever wonder how to grow a bay leaf tree? The seasoning is so
commonplace it is easy to forget that the leaves are from a growing tree.
The sweet bay leaf tree (Laurus nobilis) is a 40- to 50-foot tall tree native
to the Mediterranean region. It was once made into a wreath to crown the

winners of ancient Greek games. The tree is considered to be one of the

oldest cultivated tree species.

About Sweet Bay Leaf Trees

Sweet bay leaf tree is frost tender and is only hardy to USDA plant
hardiness zone 7 [1]. It prefers a full sun exposure and blooms in spring to
summer. The leaves are leathery and stiff with a strong mid-rib. Crushing
the leaf releases aromatic oil that is the source of the flavoring for foods.
Bay tree care is very simple and straightforward but protection must be
given to these trees in cold climates.

How to Grow a Bay Leaf Tree

Sweet bay trees should be planted in well drained soil with an

incorporation of generous amounts ofcompost [2]. The trees can be kept at
a smaller growth habit if grown in a container, which also allows the
gardener to bring the tree indoors or to a sheltered location when cold
temperatures threaten. Plant the trees at the same level in soil that they
were grown in their nursery pot. Planting bay trees is best done in early
spring when they are semi-dormant.

You can grow a bay tree simply as an ornamental plant or as part of your
culinary arsenal. Growing a bay tree from cuttings [3] or air layering [4] is
the common form of propagation. Cuttings should be taken in late summer
and set into a soil-less medium [5]. Air layering [6] requires the gardener to
wound the tree and pack it with sphagnum moss until roots form in the
wound. The stem or branch can then be cut off and planted.

Protect sweet bay trees from heavy winds, which are damaging to the
weak wood. Bay trees do not need feeding or supplemental watering in
winter. Bay trees can be trained to a topiary [7] or other form with careful
management when the plant is young. Place a potted plant in an area
where temperatures range from 45 to 64 F. (7 to 17 C.) and where sunlight
is from a southern or eastern direction.

Harvest and Use of Sweet Bay Leaf Tree

Leaves may be harvested at any time but the best flavor can be had from
larger, mature leaves. Lay the leaves out to dry and crush them or use
them whole but remove before eating. The leaves are a common
ingredient in the French seasoning packet, bouquet garni, which is
wrapped in cheesecloth and steeped in soups and sauces. It is worth
learning how to grow a bay leaf tree for ornamentation and fresh
wholesome seasoning.

Bay Laurel Has Yellow Leaves: Why Is My Bay Laurel

Turning Yellow

Bay trees [1] are grown all over the world for the leaves, which are used in
cooking, massage therapy and for medicinal properties. Though fairly
resistant to pests and disease, problems may nonetheless strike, causing
the leaves to turn yellow on the bay laurel. You may be wondering why my
bay laurel is turning yellow if you see yellowing of the bay laurel leaves.

Bay trees are evergreen shrubs that grow beautifully in either the garden
or in containers. They make wonderful topiaries [2] shaped as balls,
pyramids, or lollipops and may even have braided or spirally trained
stems. Laurus nobilis prefers to be grown in well-drained soil in a partially
shaded or protected sun exposure. Grow bay outside in warm climates or
indoors or greenhouse in cooler climates.

Why is My Bay Laurel Turning Yellow?

Leaves turn yellow on bay laurel for a number of reasons, resulting from
an environmental condition, pest infestation or disease.

Root rot A yellow bay laurel plant may be indicative of waterlogged

roots or wet weather creating root rot [3], a fungal disease that does
exactly what is says. This usually applies to container grown plants and
symptoms also include leaf wilt and drooping as well as yellow leaves.

Avoid overwatering and standing water by providing adequate drainage.

You may need to repot the bay in well draining, disease-free soil after
removing any infected parts. An application of fungicide may be helpful as
well.

Bay sucker pest If your bay laurel has yellow leaves, another cause
may be the bay sucker (aka: jumping plant lice), a common insect
marauder of bay plants. These sap suckers are most active in late spring.

Early signs of these pests are yellowing of the leaves followed by

thickening of the leaf tissue, and finally brown leaves that drop.

Treatment for these pests is the removal of infested foliage on the yellow
bay laurel plant. The damaged portions should be burned and then the
bay should be treated with insecticidal soap [4]focused on the underside of
the leaves. You may need to treat more than one time.

Nutrient deficiency Lastly, if your bay laurel has yellow leaves, the root
of the problem may be either an iron or a nitrogen deficiency.

A deficiency in iron is also called iron chlorosis [5] and is a major issue in
the garden that is caused by several problems, most often overly alkaline
soil [6] or damaged roots. Too little iron decreases chlorophyll, resulting in
yellow leaves beginning at the edges and moving inward while the veins
remain green. Treatment is dependent upon the cause. If the soil is too
wet or alkaline, mix organic matter [7], sulfur [8] or peat moss [9] into the soil
to correct the pH [10] and improve drainage.

A yellow bay laurel plant may be indicative of a nitrogen deficiency [11],

which is caused by an imbalance in the pH of the soil. A uniform yellowing
of the bay laurel leaves occurring in older, lower leaves first and moving
upward is how a nitrogen deficiency can be diagnosed. Add a nitrate rich
fertilizer [12] to the soil, making sure to follow the directions lest you scorch
the plant. A safer but slower option is to amend with decomposing organic
matter to treat the nitrogen deficiency.

Sweet Bay Leaf Spots: Care of Bay Tree Leaf Problems

Growing bay leaf

trees [1] have been cultivated
for centuries for their subtle
flavor, aroma and medicinal
uses. Sweet bay leaf spots
may make one cringe
regarding the wisdom of
using them in culinary
creations such as soups,
stews, brines, shellfish boils
and teas let alone for
ornamental uses such as
herbal
wreaths, topiaries [2] or potpourri [3]. So lets take a look at the causes and
care of bay leaf tree problems, such as black spots on bay leaves.

Bay Leaf Tree Care

Growing bay leaf trees require a little patience as they are slow growing
evergreens, although they may live for 40 years or longer and attain a
height of 10 feet (or up to 23 feet in the wild).

Care of bay leaf trees is minimal when bearing in mind that Laurus
nobilis is hardy in USDA zone 8[4], thrives in rich, well-drained soil (pH
6.2) [5], dislikes overwatering and should be brought indoors when the
temperature dips in the fall months.

Sweet Bay Leaf Spots by Insects

A plague in the care of bay tree leaf problems are aphids [6], mites [7] and
hard shelled scales [8]. Their honeydew causes sooty mold [9], giving the
appearance of black spots when growing bay leaf trees.

Care of bay tree leaf problems of this ilk require a strong blast of water to
dislodge some of the marauders, followed by a treatment of insecticidal
soap or neem oil [10]. Both insecticidal soap [11]and neem oil are safe to use
and can be easily rinsed off the leaves before using in food. Several
weekly applications may be needed to resolve black spots on bay leaves
caused by insects.

Other Causes of Black Spots on Bay Leaves

If no evidence of insects is to be found, another cause for black spots on

bay leaves may be leaf spot disease [12]. Care of bay tree leaf problems
caused by this involve primarily removing all the affected leaves and
allowing the soil to dry between watering. Make sure the plant is not
sitting in water and water at the base of the plant to allow leaves to
remain dry.

A bacterial or fungal infection such as phytophthora ramorum may

additionally be creating sweet bay leaf spots. Care of bay leaf tree
problems of this type again involves removing any infected leaves from
the plant and surrounding area and burn or seal in a plastic bag for
dispatch. Take care to have leaves dry by mid morning, thereby
discouraging a hospitable environment for spores to take hold. Asulfur
spray [13] may discourage any further infection and black spots on bay
leaves. Although chemical control is not usually warranted, if you do
decide to spray, spring is the optimal time at bud break during the
growing season in 12 to 14 day intervals.

Lastly, a possible cause of black spots on bay leaves may simply be

sunburn. Moving the plant from indoors back outside too suddenly may
burn the leaves as may a reflection from glass indoors. Always look into
the simplest solution first such as too much sun or water or the need
for repotting[14].

Betony

Growing Betony Plants

Betony is an attractive, hardy perennial thats

shady spots. It has a long blooming period and
without an aggressive spread. It can also be
used as an herb. Keep reading to learn more
betony information.

Wood Betony Information

Wood betony (Stachys officinalis) is native to

is hardy to USDA zone 4 [1]. It can tolerate
from full sun to partial shade, making it a
choice for shady areas where few flowering
will thrive.

Depending upon variety, it can reach heights

anywhere between 9 inches (23 cm) and 3
(91 cm). The plants produce a rosette of slightly
leaves that then reach upward in a long stalk
that blooms in clumps along the stalk, making
look. The flowers come in shades of purple to white.

perfect for filling in

self-seeds
dried and
wood

Europe and
anything
popular
things
of
feet
scalloped
for a distinctive

Start from seed in autumn or spring, or propagate from cuttings or divided

clumps in spring. Once planted, growing betony plants will self-seed [2] and
spread slowly in the same area. Allow the plants to fill in an area until they
become overcrowded, then divide them. It may take them three years to
reach critical mass in sunny spots and as long as five years in the shade.

Betony Herb Uses

Wood betony herbs have a magical/medicinal history dating back to

Ancient Egypt and have been used to treat everything from shattered
skulls to silliness. Today, there is no scientific evidence that wood betony
herbs have medicinal properties, but plenty of herbalists still recommend
it to treat headaches and anxiety.

Even if youre not looking for treatment, betony can be brewed into a good
substitute for black tea and makes for a nice base in herbal tea mixes [3]. It
can be dried by hanging the entire plant upside down in a cool, dark, dry
place.

Black Cohosh Plant

Care And Uses

Youve probably heard about black cohosh with respect to womens health.
This interesting herb plant has much to offer for those wishing to grow it.
Keep reading for more information on black cohosh plant care.

About Black Cohosh Plants

Found in the eastern United States, black cohosh plants are herbaceous
wildflowers with an affinity for moist, partially shaded growing areas. Black
cohosh is a member of the Ranunculaceae family,Cimicifuga reacemosa,
and commonly referred to as black snakeroot or bugbane. Growing black
cohosh gets the name Bugbane in reference to its unpleasant odor, which
renders it repellent to insects.

This wildflower has small plumes of star-shaped white flowers that soar
upwards of 8 feet (more commonly 4 to 6 feet tall) above deep green,
fern-like leaves. Growing black cohosh plants in the home landscape will
definitively lend some drama due to its spectacular height and late
summer blooms.

Black cohosh perennials have foliage similar to that of astilbe [1], sharply
serrated, and show themselves off nicely in shade gardens [2].

Black Cohosh Herb Benefits

Native American people once used growing black cohosh plants for a
medley of medical issues, from snake bites to gynecological conditions.
During the 19th century, physicians availed themselves of black cohosh
herb benefits with regards to fever reduction, menstrual cramping, and
arthritis pain. Additional benefits deemed the plant useful in the treatment
of sore throats and bronchitis.

Most recently, black cohosh has been utilized as an alternative medicine in

the treatment of menopausal and premenopausal symptoms with a proven
estrogen-like balm to reduce disagreeable symptoms, most especially
hot flashes and night sweats.

The roots and rhizomes of black cohosh are the medicinal portion of the
plant and will be ready for harvesting three to five years after planting.

Black Cohosh Plant Care

In order to plant black cohosh in the home garden, either purchase seeds
from a reputable nursery or collect your own. To collect seeds, [3] do so in
the fall when the seeds are mature and have dried out in their capsules;
they will have started to split open and when shaken make a rattling
sound. Sow these seeds immediately.

Seeds for growing black cohosh plants must be stratified [4] or exposed to
a warm/cold/warm cycle to stimulate germination. To stratify the black
cohosh seeds, expose them to 70 degrees F. (21 C.) for two weeks, and
then 40 degrees F. (4 C.) for three months.

Once the seeds have gone through this process, plant them 1 to 2
inches apart and about inch deep in prepared moist soil that is high in
organic matter and covered with a 1-inch layer of mulch.

Although this herb prefers shade, it will grow in full sun; however, the
plants will be of a lighter shade of green and may have more of a
propensity for scalding of the foliage. You may want to sow seeds in a cold
frame [5] for germination the following spring if you have a particularly
hostile climate.

Black cohosh may also be propagated via division or separation in the

spring or fall but not sooner than three years after planting.

Maintain a consistently moist soil for your black cohosh plants, as they
dislike drying out. Additionally, tall flower stalks may likely need staking
These perennials are slow growers and may require a little patience but

[6]

will lend visual interest in the home landscape. Even the spent seed
casings may be left throughout the winter to add texture to the garden.

Borage

Plants That Grow Well With Borage

By Karen Boness, Owner of Wild Willow Landscape Design

Arborist, Certified Permaculture Designer

Companion planting [2] is based on the idea that some plants perform
better if they are located near a strategic plant partner. This partner may
attract beneficial insects, improve soil quality, or even share root space in
a mutually beneficial manner. Read on to learn about borage and
companion planting.

Plants That Grow Well with Borage

Using borage [3] (Borago officinalis) as a companion plant is good choice.

Plants that grow well with borage include:

Tomatoes

Cabbage

Squash

Strawberries

The borage companion plant is said to repel tomato worms [8] and cabbage
worms [9] because borage attracts beneficial insects, such as bees [10] and
tiny wasps [11]. As we know these are great plant pollinators, but they also
repel garden pests. Additionally, borage works well in the garden

[1]

, ISA Certified

[4]

[5]

[6]

[7]

alongside many types of herbs and flowers. So bring on the borage as a

companion plant!

Companion Planting with Borage

Companion planting with borage is a rich subject. Borage has a reputation

for improving the flavor and growth of strawberries. This may be due to
the fact that it adds trace minerals to the soil. Borage leaves are known to
contain potassium, calcium and Vitamin C.

Because borage leaves are rich in minerals and vitamins, the leaves make
nice mulch for almost any vegetable. Use the older, larger, fading leaves
for this purpose. Borage plant material is also a rich contributor of
nutrients and bulk for your compost bin [12].

Buy borage seeds [13] to start your companion planting endeavor. The
seeds germinate quite easily. You can also buy borage seedlings at your
local nurseries or sometimes at farmers markets. Please note that borage
reseeds itself vigorously. If borage pops up in places you dont want, they
are very easy to weed out of your planting beds.

Borage leaves are coarse, thick and hairy. The flowers are the star of the
show with this plant. Tiny little lavender or blue colored star-shaped
flowers bloom on and on throughout the growing season. In mild climates,
borage sometimes blossoms throughout the winter. The borage
companion plant takes sun or part shade and prefers moist soil.

Borage flowers and immature borage leaves are edible. The flowers are a
tiny bit spicy and very pretty in salads, iced lemonade, or stir-fry (add at
the very end). Note of caution: Pregnant and nursing women should not
eat borage. It isnt good for their health or the health of their babies.

Borage Harvesting: How And When To Harvest Borage

Plants

Sage [1], rosemary [2] and thyme [3] are perennial staples of most herb
gardens, but dont forget the annuals. A hardy annual, suited to all USDA
hardiness zones, is borage [4]. This self-seeding herb is easy to grow and if
allowed to bloom and set seed will provide year upon year of edible blue
blossoms as well as foliage. The question is, when and how to harvest
borage?

How and When to Harvest Borage

Before we get into borage harvesting, a little more info about the plant is
useful. An ancient herb, borage also goes by the names bee plant, bee
bread, talewort, starflower and cool-tankard. The reference to bees is
particularly apt, as the plant is an excellent bee attractor [5] with its also
aptly named star-shaped flowers. Borage flowers are usually bright blue,
but the cultivar Alba has white flowers.

Although borage self-seeds [6], it is less likely to be invasive than herbs

such as mint [7]. Borage spreads from seeds above ground rather than
underground stolons like mint. The plant can be top heavy with the weight
of its cluster of flowers and will reach a size of between 18-36 inches high
by 9-24 inches across.

Not only is borage beneficial to pollinating bees, but it seems to improve

the quality of other plants. It is often grown in conjunction
with cucumber [8], beans [9], grapes [10], squash [11] and peas [12]. Borage is
high in calcium [13] and potassium [14], so many folks plant it with
their tomatoes [15] to stave off blossom end rot [16], which is the result of a
lack of calcium. Potassium also helps plants set fruit, so a little borage in
the garden may go a long way towards engendering healthy and bountiful
crops.

Borage (Borago officinalis) is of Mediterranean origin and, as such, thrives

in full sun, although it will tolerate light shade. Direct sow seeds inch
deep in rows set 18 inches apart in February or March. Germination should
occur within a week or two. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin to
a foot to 15 inches apart.

Seeds can be readily obtained at nurseries, garden centers or via the

internet. Or, if you know someone who is growing the herb, you might try
harvesting borage seeds yourself. Harvesting borage seeds is pretty easy
since, unlike many other seeds, borage seeds are fairly large. They look
like small, hard seed pods with grooved sides and a cap on the top.

Borage Harvesting

Both the leaves and flowers of borage are edible with a flavor much akin
to a cucumber. The stalks and leaves are covered with fine, silvery hairs
that tend to get pricklier as they mature. Borage leaves contain a small
amount of silica, which for some people can act as an irritant. Its wise to

handle the plant with gloves while picking borage leaves and even in the
kitchen if you know or think you may be susceptible.

When picking borage leaves, select the young ones, which will have less of
the little hairs. Continual harvesting and deadheading will allow for a
longer period of use.

How To Plant Borage Seeds

Borage [1] is a fascinating and

underrated plant. While its
completely edible, some
people are turned off by its
bristly leaves. While the
older leaves do develop a
texture that not everyone
finds pleasant, the younger
leaves and flowers provide
splash of color and a crisp,
cucumber flavor that cant
be beaten.

Even if you cant be convinced to bring it into the kitchen, borage is a

favorite of bees [2] to such an extent that its often called Bee Bread. No
matter whos eating it, borage is great to have around, and so easy to
grow. Keep reading to learn about borage seed propagation and growing
borage from seeds.

Borage Seed Growing

Borage is a hardy annual, which means that the plant will die in a frost,
but the seeds can survive in the frozen ground. This is good news for
borage, as it produces a huge amount of seed in the fall. The seed falls to
the ground and the plant dies, but in the spring new borage plants emerge
to take its place.

Basically, once youve planted borage once, you never need to plant it in
that spot again. It reproduces only by dropped seed, though, so you dont
have to worry about it spreading across your garden while youre not
looking.

Dont want it anymore? Simply pull up the plant in early summer before
the seeds have dropped.

How to Plant Borage Seeds

Borage seed propagation is very easy. If you want to collect seeds to give
away or plant elsewhere in the garden, pick them off the plant when the
flowers begin to wither and brown.

The seeds can be stored for at least three years. Growing borage from
seeds is just as easy. The seeds can be sown outdoors four weeks before
the last frost [3]. Sprinkle them on the ground and cover them with half an
inch of soil or compost.

Dont start borage seed growing in a container unless you intend to keep it
in that container. Growing borage from seeds results in a very long taproot
that does not transplant well.

Borage Cover Crops Using Borage As Green Manure

You dont need many excuses to grow borage [1]. With its brilliant blue
starry flowers and charismatic fuzzy stems, borage is an herb with tons of
garden appeal. This plant has a rich history of use as an herbal remedy
but you might also consider borage cover crops to enrich soil. Using
borage as green manure [2] allows the nutrients brought up by the plants
deep taproot to be dispersed into the upper areas of soil when the plant
composts. Borage returns high nitrogen to the soil when it is tilled back in.
The result is healthy soil, rich in nutrients and deeply aerated earth.

Borage Cover Crops and Fertilizer

Borage is an old-fashioned herb with a history of culinary and medicinal

use. Also known as starflower because of its arresting blue flowers, borage
is also a great companion plant said to improve the flavor of tomatoes [3].
Commercially, borage is grown for its oil content, but in the garden, you
can use its leaves soaked in water as a fertilizer or plant masses of the
herb as a living soil enricher. Borage provides a showy display for 4 to 6

months and then has a slow nitrogen release when you chop it back into
the soil.

Planting a borage cover crop affords a period of spectacular beauty as the

sea of deep blue blooms decorate the landscape. Once the flowers are
spent, you can till in the plants, reducing them to smaller broken down
pieces that will compost back into the soil. Using borage as green manure
has a win-win effect with a season of beauty and a season of giving back
to the earth.

True, there are higher nitrogen cover crops that release more quickly when
returned to the earth, but the colorful abandon of borage cover crops is a
delight to behold and the gradual nitrogen release allows more nitrogen to
remain for future crops while it conditions the soil and increases tilth.

How to Use Borage as a Cover Crop

Sow the seeds in March to April into a well turned bed that has been raked
to remove any debris and obstacles. Seeds should be planted at 1/8 inch
under soil and 6 inches apart. Keep the seed bed moderately moist until
germination. You may need to thin the seedlings [4] to allow the plants to
mature.

If you are in a hurry, you can till the plants into the soil before they flower
or wait to enjoy the blooms and then chop the plants into the soil to
release their nutrients slowly. The deep taproots and wide fibrous root
zone will break apart problem soils and aerate, increasing water
percolation and oxygen.

Planting a borage cover crop in late summer will provide green material
for nitrogen release but will not provide you with the flowers. It is still a
worthwhile green manure that is easy to plant and grow.

How to Use Borage as Fertilizer

If you just simply like to have a few of the plants around for their beauty,
use as a tea or for the decorative bee attracting flowers [5], the plants are
still useful even in small numbers. These annuals can get 2- to 3-feet tall
with numerous secondary branching stems and leaves.

Strip leaves and place them in enough water to cover them. Put a lid on
the container and let it ferment for two weeks. After the two-week period,
drain out the solids and you now have an excellent fertilizer.

Use borage as fertilizer weekly, diluted with water at 1 part to 10 parts

water. The solution can keep for several months. And dont forget to till in
your annual borage plants no matter how many there are. Even small
numbers of the plants are excellent soil conditioners, the plant equivalent
of beauty and brains.

Container Grown Borage: Learn About Growing Borage

In Pots

A warm season annual native to the

Mediterranean, borage [1] is easily recognized
by its bristly, grey-green leaves and fivepetaled, star-shaped blooms, which are
usually intense blue. However, less common
varieties with white or pale blue blooms are
also available. If you dont have space in your
garden, or if youre concerned about the
plants rambunctious growth habit, consider
growing borage in containers.

Borage Growing Conditions

This beautiful herb definitely isnt fussy.

Borage prefers full sunlight but tolerates light
shade. In the ground, borage thrives in rich,
well-drained soil. However, potted borage plants do fine in any welldrained commercial potting soil.

Growing Borage in Pots

Borage reaches heights of 2 to 3 feet and the taproot is long and sturdy.
Therefore, potted borage plants need a sturdy container with a depth and
width of at least 12 inches.

Although you can grow borage from seed, most gardeners prefer to start
with bedding plants, which are generally available in garden centers or
specialty herb stores.

If you are adventurous, plant seeds directly in the container soon after the
last frost in spring, or start the seeds indoors a few weeks earlier.

Keep in mind that because of its long taproot, borage doesnt transplant
well. Starting the plant in its permanent home can save you trouble down
the road.

Caring for Container Grown Borage

Water borage deeply whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of potting media feels
dry to the touch, then let the pot drain. Check often during hot, dry
weather, as containerized plants dry quickly [2], but be careful not to let
the soil become soggy, which promotes rot.

Borage in containers generally requires no fertilizer. If you decide to feed

the plant, use a diluted solution of a water-soluble fertilizer. Avoid
overfeeding, which often promotes lush foliage but few blooms.

Borage tends to be relatively pest resistant, but the plant is sometimes

bugged by aphids [3]. If you notice the tiny pests, spray the plant with
insecticidal soap spray.

Pinch tips of young plants [4] to keep borage compact and bushy, and snip
the leaves as needed for use in the kitchen. You can also trim the plant if it
looks overgrown in mid-summer. Be sure todeadhead blooms [5] as soon as
they wilt. Otherwise, the plant will go to seed and blooming will end early.
The plant may also need stakes to keep it upright.

Borage Varieties Are There Different Borage Flowers

Native to warm climates of the

Mediterranean, borage [1] is a tall, sturdy herb
distinguished by deep green leaves covered with
fuzzy white hairs. Masses of bright borage
flowers attract honeybees and other
beneficial insects all summer long. Home
herb gardeners can select from four
primary varieties of borage, all equally
beautiful and easy to grow. Read on to learn
more about various borage plant types.

Borage Plant Types

Below are the common varieties of borage:

Common borage (Borago officinalis)

Also known as starflower, common borage
is the most familiar of the different types of
borage. Common borage displays intensely blue blooms with contrasting
black stamens.

Variegata (Borago officinalis Variegata) This interesting variegated

plant displays delicate blue borage flowers and green leaves mottled with
white.

Alba (Borago officinalis Alba) Also known as white borage, Alba is a

great choice if youre looking for a plant with intense white blooms. Stalks
of white borage tend to be a bit sturdier than common borage and the
plant usually blooms later in the season than its blue cousin.

Creeping borage (Borago pygmaea) Creeping borage is a sprawling

plant with fragrant, pale blue blooms that appear from late spring through
early autumn. Most borage varieties are fast-growing annuals, but
creeping borage is a short-lived perennial suitable for growing in USDA
planting zones 5 and above.

All of these plants grow well in full sun, though many borage flowers
tolerate partial shade. They also prefer sandy soil, but will happily grow in
just about any soil type as long as it drains well. Borage likes to be kept
somewhat moist throughout the growing season, but not soggy another
reason drainage is important.

Regardless of the type grown, borage can be prone to reseeding under the
right conditions, sodeadheading [2] can help alleviate this should it be a
concern.

Now that you know about the different varieties of borage plants you can
grow in the garden, you are well on your way to becoming a borage
connoisseur.

Borage Herb: How To Grow Borage

The borage herb is an old

fashioned plant that can get
up
to 2 feet or more. It is
native to the Middle East
and
has an ancient history in
war
as an enhancement for
bravery and courage.
Growing borage provides the
gardener with cucumberflavored leaves for tea and
other beverages as well as
bright
starry blue flowers for
decorating
salads. All parts of the plant, except the roots, are flavorful and have
culinary or medicinal uses.

Borage Plant Info

While not as common as thyme [1] or basil [2], borage herb (Borago
officinalis) is a unique plant for the culinary garden. It grows quickly as an
annual but will colonize a corner of the garden by self-seeding and
reappearing year after year.

June and July are heralded by the presence of the borage flower, an
appealing, small, brilliant blue bloom with attracting qualities. Indeed, the
plant should be include in the butterfly garden [3] and
brings pollinators [4]to your veggies. The oval leaves are hairy and rough
with the lower foliage pushing 6 inches in length. The borage plant may
grow 12 or more inches wide in a tall bushy habit.

Growing Borage

Herb cultivation just takes a little gardening know how. Grow borage in
an herb [5] or flower garden. Prepare a garden bed that is well tilled with

average organic matter [6]. Ensure that the soil is well drained and in a
medium pH range [7]. Sow seeds directly into the garden after the last date
of frost[8]. Plant seeds to inch under the soil in rows 12 inches apart.
Thin the borage herb to at least 1 foot when the plants measure 4 to 6
inches tall.

Planting borage with strawberries [9] attracts bees and increases the yield
of fruit. It has limited culinary use in todays foods, but the borage flower
is often used as a garnish. Traditionally the borage plant was used to treat
many ailments, from jaundice to kidney problems. In medicinal use today
it is limited, but the seeds are a source of linolenic acid. Borage flowers
are also used in potpourris or candied for use in confections.

Borage can be perpetuated by allowing the flowers to go to seed and self

sow. Pinching the terminal growth [10] will force a bushier plant but may
sacrifice some of the flowers. Borage herb is not a fussy plant and has
been known to grow in refuse piles and highway ditches. Be assured you
want the plant to regrow annually or remove the flowers before it seeds.
Growing borage requires a dedicated space in the home garden.

Borage Herb Harvest

Sowing the seeds every four weeks will ensure a ready supply of borage
flowers. The leaves may be picked at any time and used fresh. Dried
leaves have little of the characteristic flavor so the plant is best consumed
after harvest. Leave the flowers alone if you are hosting a honeybee
colony. The blooms produce an excellent flavored honey.

Capers

How To Growing And Caring For Caper Plants

What are capers and how are they used? Capers, unopened flower buds
found on the caper bush, are the culinary darlings of many cuisines.
Capers can be found in European foods and in those of Africa and India as

well, where cultivation of growing capers is found. Growing a caper bush,

however, is not an easy task.

What are Capers?

Caper plants (Capparis spinosa) are usually found growing wild in the
Mediterranean in dry stony areas similar to those where olives [1] are
grown. Capers grow in viney brambles, much likeblackberries [2] do in
North America. Cultivation of a caper bush is most often found in Spain
and Africa, but in the past, Southern Russia was also an exporter.

Growing capers are, as mentioned, the buds of a shrub-like perennial (3 to

5 feet high) which has a multitude of spiny branches bearing 2-inch white
flowers with purple stamens.

What are Capers Used For?

So how are capers used? The tiny buds of the caper bush, or Capparis
spinosa, are picked on a daily basis and then pickled in vinegar or
otherwise brined in salt. The resulting flavor of the caper berry is strong
and distinctlike that of mustard and black pepperdue to its concentration
of mustard oil, which is released when the plant tissue is crushed.

This piquant flavor and aroma lends itself well to a variety of sauces,
pizza, fish meats and salads. The immature leaves growing on a caper
bush may even be eaten as a cooked vegetable and the burnt remnants of
the growing caper bush roots have been utilized as a salt substitute. Caper
fruits (caperberry, capperone, or taperone) may be used in making caperflavored sauces, or sometimes pickled for eating like small gherkins.

A caper bush also has medicinal uses. Growing capers may be harvested
to aid in eliminating flatulence, improving liver function, or for its antirheumatic effects. An age-old remedy, growing capers have also been
reputed to be useful in treating arteriosclerosis, kidney ailments, diuretics,
anemia, arthritis, gout and dropsy.

How to Grow Capers from Seed

Growing a caper bush can be achieved via propagation from seed,

although finding a seed source is more of a challenge. If seed for growing
capers is located, one may try growing them in a large pot with a base of
coarse rock or crumbled brick. Take care not to overwater as the plants
foliage is a natural water conservator.

Caper seeds are very tiny and germinate readily but in low percentiles.
Dried seeds are more difficult to germinate and should be soaked [3] for
one day in warm water, then wrapped in damp towel, sealed in a jar and
refrigerated for two to three months. Post refrigeration, re-soak seeds
overnight and then plant at a depth of 1 cm in well drained medium.

How to Grow Capers from Cuttings

Collect growing caper berry cuttings

basal portions with six to 10 buds.

For growing a caper bush, seat cuttings in a loose, well-draining soil

medium with a heat source at the base. Dipping the stem cutting in a bit
of rooting hormone [5] first is also beneficial.

Caring for Caper Plants

Caring for caper plants requires a steady stream of strong sunlight and an
arid climate. Growing caper plants have a hardiness range similar to olive
trees (18 degrees F. or -8 degrees C.) and can also tolerate summer
temperatures of over 105 degrees F. (41 degrees C.).

When growing a caper bush, the plant itself is quite tolerant and develops
deep root systems, the better to avail itself of its resources in a difficult
environment.

When harvesting, size matters. Growing capers are divided into five
distinct groups. When growing a caper bush, buds are picked at the
immature stage and categorized according to size: nonpareils, capuchins,
capotes, seconds, and thirdswith the nonpareils being the most prized
and most expensive. In Italy, capers are graded on a scale from 7 to 16,
which indicates their size in millimeters.

[4]

in February, March or April using

Caraway Spice: Caraway Growing In The Garden

Caraway is a flavorful and aromatic herb. The caraway seed is the most
used part of the plant and can be used in baking, soups, stews and other
foods but all parts of the plant are edible. Growing caraway seeds requires

some patience, as the caraway plant is a biennial [1] and doesnt do more
than grow vegetatively in the first season. The caraway plant resembles a
carrot and sets seed in its second year.

Learn About the Caraway Plant

The caraway plant (Carum carvi) is an herbaceous biennial that will

mature to 30 inches tall. The plant is only about 8 inches tall in the first
season with carrot-like foliage and a long taproot. By the second year, the
plant will triple in size and the foliage becomes more feathery with stout
stems. Tiny white flowers appear on the umbrels, which begin in May and
last until the end of summer. The spent flowers yield small hard brown
seeds the caraway spice that is an important part of many regional
cuisines.

How to Grow Caraway

Caraway spice is an under-used and infrequently grown plant in most herb

gardens. It is native to Europe and Western Asia where it thrives in full sun
and well drained soil with pH ranges [2]of 6.5 to 7.0. It isnt a good plant for
hot, humid climates and prefers cool temperate zones. Sow the seeds 1/2inch deep in fall or spring.

Once seed germinates, thin the caraway plant to 8 to 12 inches apart. In

colder climates, mulch [3]the roots of the plant heavily with straw or
organic mulch, which will add nutrients to the soil.

Germination is slow and sporadic when growing caraway seeds, and the
herb may be intercropped to help prevent weeds and manage soil
conditions.

Very little cultivation is required in caraway growing, but adequate

moisture is an important component in the first year. The foliage of
caraway plants need to be kept dry during irrigation, so a drip hose is an
excellent way to keep the soil moisture level up.

Cut the plant back in the fall as it will die back and re-sprout in spring.
Caraway has few pests or disease problems. Plant a second crop a year
after the first for consistent production.

Harvesting Caraway

Caraway growing provides you with a fresh source of spice that is

adaptable and stores well. All parts of the caraway plant are edible.
Harvest the leaves in the first or second years to add flavor to salads.
When the plant has produced seed, dig up the taproot and use it as you
would any root vegetable. The seeds are harvested when they turn a rich
deep brown color. Cut the umbels off the plant and put them in a paper
bag. Let them dry in an open bag for a few days and then shake the bag to
remove the caraway spice.

Herb gardens are more complete when you grow caraway and add the
characteristic flavor to your spice rack.

Chamomile - How To Grow Chamomile Indoors

By Liz Baessler

Chamomile [1] is a fantastic herb to grow. Its foliage and flowers are bright,
its fragrance is sweet, and the tea that can be brewed from the leaves is
relaxing and easy to make. While it will thrive outdoors, chamomile will
also grow very well indoors in a pot. Keep reading to learn more about how
to grow chamomile indoors.

How to Grow Chamomile Indoors

One of the best things about growing chamomile indoors is that it can be
planted in the winter. Requiring only four hours of light per day, your
chamomile will be fine as long as it has a spot by a south-facing window. It
will probably grow no higher than 10 inches (25 cm), but the plant will still
be healthy and the flowers fragrant.

Sow your chamomile seeds directly in the soil. You can start them in small
seed starters and transplant them, or begin them in their ultimate pot.
Choose a pot thats at least 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter and has good
drainage.

Wet your potting soil so that its moist but not sodden, and press the seeds
into the surface of the soil so that theyre still visible chamomile seeds
need light to germinate. The seeds will germinate best at a temperature of
68 F. (20 C.), so if your house is cold, place them on a heating mat or near
a radiator. They should sprout in about two weeks. After theyve developed
their second set of true leaves, transplant them if they began in a seed
starter or thin them to one every 2 inches (5 cm) if they began in a big
pot.

Chamomile Care Indoors

Care of chamomile indoors is easy. The pot should be kept near a southfacing window. The soil should be kept moist but not overly wet; watering
once per week should be enough. After 60 to 90 days, the plant should be
ready to harvest for tea.

Catnip How To Grow Catnip

By Heather Rhoades

Catnip plants (Nepeta cataria) can help make your garden a cat-friendly
garden. The catnip herb is a perennial member of the mint [1] family that is
best known for being attractive to cats, but can also be used in
soothing teas [2]. Growing catnip is easy, but there are some things you
need to know about how to grow catnip.

Planting Catnip

Catnip can be planted in your garden either from seed or from plants.

If youre growing catnip from seed, youll need to properly prepare the
seeds. Catnip seeds are tough and need to be stratified [3]or slightly
damaged before they will sprout. This can be done by first placing the
seeds in the freezer overnight and then placing the seeds in a bowl of
water for 24 hours[4]. This process will damage the seed coat and will make
it much easier for the catnip seeds to sprout. After you have stratified the
seeds, you can plant them indoors or outdoors. Thin them to one plant per
20 inches after the sprout.

You can also plant catnip from plant divisions [5]or started plants. The best
time for planting catnip starts or divisions is in either the spring or fall.
Catnip plants should be planted 18 to 20 inches apart.

Growing Catnip

Catnip herb grows best in well draining soil in the full sun, but will tolerate
part sun and a wide variety of soil types.

Once catnip plants are established, they need very little in the way of
care. They dont need to be fertilized, as fertilizer can decrease the
potency of their smell and flavor. They only need to be provided with
water beyond rainfall if you are growing catnip in pots or if you are having
drought conditions.

Catnip can become invasive in some areas so you need to take steps to
control it. Catnip plants spread readily by seed so in order to control its
spread, youll need to remove the flowers [6] before they go to seed.

Growing catnip can be rewarding. Now that you know a few facts about
how to grow catnip, you (and your cat) can enjoy this wonderful herb.