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v2
By Rose Brown
CONSTRUCTION NOTES
This relaxed-fitting hood is worked from front to back (from the face edge to the back of the head) after a
provisional cast on, in the shape of a wide rectangle with small extensions at each side of the front edge.
When the rectangle is folded in half and seamed up the back, the extensions curve under the chin. Decreases
near the back edge of the hood give it a rounded shape, and three-needle bind off joins the seam. The
provisionally cast on stitches around the face are retrieved to add a ribbed, fold-back cuff. Stitches are
picked up around the neck edge to add ribbing that flares over the shoulders. Finally, stitches are picked up
in front to add button and buttonhole bands.
Copyright Rose Brown, 2014. All rights reserved
SIZES
Child: to fit head circumferences 18.5 to 20.5 inches (47 to 52 cm)
Adult: to fit most adult head circumferences, 21 to 24 inches (53 to 61 cm)
Variations for Adult size are shown in square brackets.
YARN
3 [4] skeins Cascade 220 Superwash Aran; 150 yds/137.5 m per 100 g skein; 100% Superwash Merino wool.
Samples shown in colors 849/Dark Aqua and 809/Really Red.
Hood requires approximately 390 [470] yds / 360 [430] m of Aran weight yarn.
Finished weights of Child and Adult samples shown, using Cascade 220 Superwash Aran: 255 [305] g
NEEDLES
One 24- or 32-inch (60 or 80 cm) circular needle in size US 8 (5.0 mm) or size needed to obtain stockinette gauge
One circular needle, any length, used only for three-needle bind off
GAUGE
19 stitches & 26 rows = 4 / 10cm in Stockinette stitch with gauge needle.
27 stitches & 26 rows = 4 / 10cm in CABLED STITCH PATTERN, unstretched, with gauge needle.
NOTIONS
Cable needle, blunt tapestry needle, 3 removable stitch markers, 2 stitch holders or double pointed needles to
temporarily hold 17 stitches, waste yarn and crochet hook for provisional cast on, row counter (optional).
Three 3/4 / 19 mm buttons.
SKILLS USED
Increase and decrease, cables, pick up and knit, provisional cast on, three-needle bind off.
Links are provided on last page for demonstrations of provisional cast on and three-needle bind off.
INSTRUCTIONS
LEFT UNDER-CHIN EXTENSION
Using gauge needle, cast on 17 sts.
Work the following 8 rows, as shown in chart:
Rows 1, 3, 5 & 7 (WS): P2, k1, p6, k6, p2.
Rows 2, 4 & 6 (RS): K2, p6, k6 p1, k2.
Row 8 (RS): K2, p6, C6B, p1, k2.
Repeat Rows 1-8 one time.
Cut yarn, leaving a tail for finishing.
Place sts on a stitch holder or double pointed needle and set aside.
Setup Row (WS): Using the yarn still attached to the Right Under-Chin Extension, this row starts by working across
those 17 sts, then continues across the provisional cast on sts in the middle, and finally across the 17 sts of the Left
Under-Chin Extension, as follows: p2, k6, p6, knit across to last 14 sts, p6, k6, p2. Total 154 [178] sts.
Place a marker on the needle between the two center sts. There will be 77 [89] sts each side of marker. This marker
will help to indicate which way the cables are crossed in the Main hood section: before the marker one way, after the
marker the other direction.
Copyright Rose Brown, 2014. All rights reserved
Next 8 rows:
Rows 1, 3 and 5 (RS): K2, p6, * k6, p6; repeat from * until 2 sts remain, k2, slipping marker as you come to it.
Rows 2, 4, 6 and 8 (WS): P2, k6, * p6, k6; repeat from * until 2 sts remain, p2, slipping marker as you come to it.
Row 7 (RS): K2, * p6, C6B; repeat from * until 3 sts before marker, p3, slip marker, p3;
* C6F, p6; repeat from * until 2 sts remain, k2.
These 8 rows comprise the CABLED STITCH PATTERN.
Repeat the CABLED STITCH PATTERN 2 [ 3] times.
Next 6 rows: Work Rows 1 through 6 of CABLED STITCH PATTERN.
Crown Shaping Rows
The next 12 rows, which must start after Row 6 of the CABLED STITCH PATTERN, have decreases worked in the center
66 sts to achieve a rounded shape at the back of the hood. Place two more markers on the needle, each one 33 stitches
away from the center marker, to indicate the center 66 sts. Then remove the center marker. When working the crown
shaping rows, slip these 2 markers as you come to them. To make it easy to pay attention to these center sts, the table
below gives directions divided into the beginning, center and end of each row, followed by the number of center sts
remaining after the row.
Work the 12 crown shaping rows as follows:
CROWN SHAPING ROWS
Row
1(RS)
Beginning of Row
k2, p6; * C6B, p6,
repeat from * to
marker.
2 (WS)
3(RS)
4(WS)
5(RS)
6 (WS)
7 (RS)
8 (WS)
Center Stitches
(C6-5B, p2tog, p4) 2x; C6-5B, p6, C6-5F;
(p4, p2tog, C6-5F) 2x
Note: To work C6-5B, slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and
hold in back of work, knit 3 from left needle, then from cable
needle knit 2 sts together, knit 1.
To work C6-5F, slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold in
front of work, from left needle knit 2 sts together, knit 1, then
from cable needle knit 3.
(p5, k5) 2x; p5, k6, p5; (k5, p5) 2x
(k3, k2tog, p2tog, p3) 2x; k3, k2tog, p6, ssk, k3;
(p3, p2tog, ssk, k3) 2x
(p4, k4) 2x; p4, k6, p4; (k4, p4) 2x
(k1, k2tog, p2tog, p1) 2x; k1, k2tog, p4, ssk, k1;
(p1, p2tog, ssk, k1) 2x
(p2, k2) 2x; p2, k4, p2; (k2, p2) 2x
End of Row
Center Sts
Remaining
56
56
46
34
46
34
24
24
9 (RS)
10(WS)
11(RS)
12(WS)
(k2tog) 6x
s2pp, p1, slip the st just purled back onto the left needle; turn
the work around so that the RS is facing you (The purled stitch
is now on the right needle); pass the two sts next to that
purled st over it, one at a time, and off the right needle. Turn
the work around again so that the WS is facing you; with yarn
in back, slip that purled st back to the right needle.
12
12
Note: To work s2pp, with yarn in front slip next 2 sts purlwise
to right needle; purl next st, then pass the two slipped sts over
st just purled.
After Row 12 there will be a total of 88 [112] stitches. Place the first 44 [56] stitches on a second circular needle.
Fold the work in half with right sides together. Your gauge needle is now in front with the remaining 44 [56] stitches.
Using the left end of the front needle as the third needle, do a three-needle bind off. Cut yarn, leaving approximately
10-inch (25 cm) tail. Using a tapestry needle, bring the tail to the right side and thread it neatly through the semi-circle
of stitches that surround the end of the seam to pull them together and prevent a hole. Then bring the tail back to the
wrong side and fasten off to secure it.
Row 1 (WS, decrease row): k3, (p2, k2) 3x, p1, p2tog; * k2, p2, repeat from * until one stitch before marker; p1,
remove marker, p2tog; (k2, p2) 3x, k3. 2 sts decreased, 152 [176] sts remain. You need a multiple of 4 stitches in
order to work 2x2 ribbing with one selvage stitch at each end.
Row 2 (RS): p3, * k2, p2; repeat from * until 5 stitches remain; k2, p3.
Row 3: k3, * p2, k2; repeat from * until 5 sts remain; p2, k3.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until ribbing measures 4.75 inches (12 cm), ending after a right-side row. At gauge, this will be
after row 30.
Tip: If you need to begin using a new ball of yarn while working the ribbing around face, it is advisable to
start the new yarn at the beginning of a row, where the join can be perfectly hidden.
Bind off in pattern.
BUTTONHOLE/BUTTON BANDS
Fold back the ribbing around face so
that approximately 3 to 3-1/4 inches
(7.6 to 8.3 cm) of it shows on the
outside of hood, making sure that
both ends are turned back equally.
Use pins or a basting yarn to
temporarily hold this cuff in place at
both ends while you pick up stitches
for the buttonhole and button bands.
Measure the length of each front
edge after folding back the ribbing,
and attach a removable marker or
safety pin at the mid-point to help
you distribute stitches evenly by
picking up half of them above and below the marker.
Buttonhole Band
With right side of fabric facing you and beginning at the bottom edge of neck ribbing on the Right side of the hood,
where the one stitch you are holding on a removable stitch marker is still attached to the working yarn, place that stitch
on your gauge needle and count it as the first stitch to be picked up for the buttonhole band. Pick up and knit 39 more
stitches evenly along the front edge of the hood, for a total of 40 stitches. Go through both layers of the folded-back
cuff when you come to it. Work one stitch in from the edge so that you are catching the bar between the two knit edge
stitches. Use a crochet hook to help pull stitches through the double layers. Photo above shows stitches picked up for
the buttonhole band.
Work the buttonhole band rows as follows:
Row 1 (WS): P3, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p3.
Row 2: K3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
Row 3: P3, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p3.
Row 4 (RS, buttonhole row): To ensure the buttonholes are not too large, work the yarn overs in this row snugly.
K2, * slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch, yarn over two times, k2tog;
k1, (p2, k2) 2x, p2, k1 *; repeat between * * one time;
slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch, yarn over two times, k2tog, k2.
Row 5: When you come to the yarn overs in this row for each buttonhole, knit the first one, and knit the second one
twisted by knitting into its back leg, as follows:
P3, * k1, k1tbl; (p2, k2) 3x, p2 *; Repeat between * * one time; k1, k1tbl, p3.
Row 6: K3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
Row 7: P3, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p3.
Bind off in pattern.
The chart below indicates buttonhole placement.
Buttonholes are worked in the purl ribs at the center and both ends of the band.
Button Band
With right side of fabric on the Left side of the hood facing you, and beginning at the fold edge of the cuff, pick up and
knit 40 stitches evenly along the front edge of the hood. Be sure to match the spacing of the turned back cuff and
picked up stitches with the buttonhole band you completed on the other side. Go through both layers of the foldedCopyright Rose Brown, 2014. All rights reserved
back cuff. Work one stitch in from the edge so that you are picking up the bar between the two knit edge stitches. Use
a crochet hook to help pull stitches through the double layers.
Work seven button band rows as follows:
Rows 1, 3, 5 and 7 (WS): P3, k2, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p3.
Rows 2, 4 and 6: K3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.
Bind off in pattern.
FINISHING
Sew on buttons. Weave in ends.